Organic Gardening News

Sometimes the joy of garden bird encounters can feel like a bit of a waiting game. When I seek out birdlife in the backyard, it’s often the case that I can hear it more than see it. Hedges and shrubs might be quivering midsummer, with boisterous twitterings and enthusiastic grub-gobbling. Certain species are as lively as ever, and just as keen for a drink or a paddle. But just when you think you’ve spied a flash of color near the bird bath splash zone, the moment’s gone, and the wait continues…

Would it surprise you to hear that this waiting game is actually a critical part of the backyard birdlife dance? In fact, it’s so important for attracting birds, they need dedicated areas of the yard devoted to it. Does that sound ridiculous? Well, it really isn’t, at least, not to a bird. Our little feathered friends need special “observation decks” where they can sit, observe, and spy their chance for that perfect moment to approach your specially prepared bird bath and enjoy the facilities, as it were.

Fail to give them this perch, and the jig may well be up. Birds, like us, appreciate comfort and places to rest in summer. Think of it as your bird’s deck chair. Yet it’s amazing how often this waiting branch gets overlooked in our quest for the perfect bird bath. We obsess over the relative merits of pedestal versus platform versus hanging models – but how many of us give a minute’s thought to bespoke birdie branches? Frustrated bird bath owners, it’s high time we did. Here’s how to add one easily (and where to put it) to enjoy more bird bath action and save yourself some waiting…

What is a Waiting Branch?

To understand why a waiting branch is so important for your bird bath, it’s important to take the bird’s eye view on things. Yes, your birdie visitor may be parched and desperate for a refreshing dip. But an exposed basin planted firmly in the middle of a yard is risky business.

We might see an ornate basin with inviting water twinkling in the light. But such a setup puts a small songbird in a vulnerable position, even if they are craving a drink or a soak. A bird bath near a tree with strong horizontal branches, such as a serviceberry like Autumn Brilliance, which you can pick up on a budget from Walmart, is far superior to one in plain sight with zero nearby support or cover.

(Image credit: Hal Moran / Getty Images)

Birds are creatures of curiosity, but also caution. When spying a bird bath, a little tufted titmouse, finch, wren, or bluebird will rarely swoop straight in. Instead, they prefer to hop down through a leafy staircase of careful steps, taking their sweet time to size up the scene. A waiting branch is their trusted observation deck: a cozy spot to tilt their small heads, tune into the vibe, and make sure the coast is clear.

When approaching a bath, they’ll want to check water levels and assess for predators. On the way back, they need the same branches to shield and protect them as they shake off water droplets, preen, and get their feathers fully flight-ready again. If your bath stands isolated without any kind of landing pad, songbirds will move onto more sheltered bathing opportunities. Even if you don’t have room for a full-sized tree, some well-placed branches mounted nearby make a huge difference to a little bird in need of privacy and security.

Choose something 18-24 inches long (45-60cm) so multiple birds can queue in comfort. You can buy bundles of textured wood, like the Yoosountic Birch Branches from Amazon, with varying thicknesses to fit into a range of backyard fixtures like fence posts, deck spindles, or garden stakes. This one addition creates an idyllic poolside vibe for observing and preening, before and after bathing.

Pick your Perch

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You don't need a massive oak tree to give songbirds a 5-star observation deck. Waiting branches and staging perches come in all shapes and sizes, from living native flora to ornate, space-saving pieces. Here are a few bird-friendly options for poolside perching near the splash zone.

Native Staging Branch

Fast-growing-trees Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry Tree

If you want to go the natural route, this native US beauty creates perfect horizontal branching right at water level, offering built-in observation perches that make songbirds feel instant comfort. As a bonus, it combines spring bloom, summer berries and fall splendor that will have local catbirds and orioles queuing up for a dip!

Rustic Toe Grip

Hiwzitar Hiwzitar Natural Wood Bird Swing Perch

Crafted with textured wood, this charming hanging branch provides bird-friendly texture. Just hang it from a shepherd's hook using the chain, or loop it over a tree limb or covered porch beam with an S-hook or weatherproof twine. Birds will love using it as a grippy perch to survey the bath and dry their feathers post-soak.

Double-Duty Lattice

Red Barrel Studio / Wayfair Red Barrel Studio Heavy-Duty Iron Garden Trellis

No room for a shrub behind your bird bath? Position this sturdy trellis 10 feet (3m) behind your basin for a multi-tier waiting ladder. The horizontal bars give finches and chickadees plenty of perching rungs while waiting their turn. Plus, it’s great for training vines like clematis or honeysuckles to add lush, protective leaf cover.

Get the Vantage Advantage

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For most shy and timid bird species other than your more adventurous robins, that waiting branch needs to be in the right place – and the correct height and distance are critical. Your birdies need a sunny vantage point to weigh the risks before wetting a single feather. Enter the vantage advantage! Basically, the ideal distance for a waiting branch is around 10-12 feet (3-3.7m) from the water's edge. It is near enough for a soggy, water-heavy bird to flutter back to safety in a heartbeat, yet far enough to prevent a sneaky garden cat from leaping out from hidden ground foliage. Get this right, and your feathered friends will be brave enough to take that splashy voyage.

(Image credit: Maria Rueger / Getty Images)

Clear lines of sight and height are equally important. Position your perch 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8m) from the ground to give birds full scope to assess activity both on the ground and in the air. Your waiting branch also needs to allow for smooth entry and exit. To give a clear sightline at a perfect height from the splash zone, secure a tall ground pole or shepherd hook (like the Vigoro Fuchsia 84-Inch Deluxe Double Shepherd Hook from The Home Depot) into the ground or lawn or a large planter. Choosing something a few inches more than you need gives you that sweet spot when the staff or pole is inserted into the soil or sward.

For a basin on a patio or apartment balcony, you can get shepherd hook and bracket sets online. Try the excellent adjustable Juegoal Extended Deck Hook and Clamp from Amazon which mounts directly to a deck railing, to which you can then hang the branch of your choosing. This gives timid finches and chickadees a secure, elevated launching pad with a clear flight path to a safe summer soak. A few species (like dark-eyed juncos) might prefer perches nearer the ground, raised 2 feet (60cm) and tucked close to thicket cover. However, most birdies are happiest with their waiting branch higher for that full-vision vantage point.

Make Your Perch Work

(Image credit: Gary Carter / Getty Images)

As well as where you place it, the type of waiting branch you choose has to be right for the particular needs of your yard around the bird bath. So give some thought to the more practical aspects, such as available space for planting, access for changing bird bath water, and whether you might need to factor in multiple branches for a wider bird community. Native shrubs like serviceberry, flowering dogwood, or arrowwood viburnum provide built-in multi-level perches with protective leaf cover – but obviously you need sufficient space to grow them.

Where planting a full shrub or small tree isn't an option, structural add-ons work brilliantly. Training vines up budget-friendly Aboxoo 2-Pack Decorative Metal Trellis from Amazon creates a lush, multi-tiered waiting ladder right behind the basin. These are lovely both for multiple perches and an evolving curtain of added privacy. For balcony and deck gardeners, a simple clamp-on deck hook is ideal. You can attach natural sticks or branches to these hooks, clamped to available railings. You can even get cute swing-style waiting branches, like the Hiwzitar Natural Wood Bird Swing from Amazon with its textured wood and leafy twine.

(Image credit: Wirestock / Getty Images)

As well as ensuring a decent branch length (around 2-3 feet/60-90cm) for potential birding partners or parents, make sure your branch is a reasonable thickness and strength for little birdie toes waiting to hop into the community pool. Perches that are too springy may send timid bathers scattering. Something 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4cm) thick and ideally textured is best for little feet to grip. If you can vary your branch textures with multiple options, you’ll increase the scope for delicate sparrows and chickadees, as well as more sturdy birdies keen to enjoy the splash zone.

Overcoming Birdy Fears

(Image credit: Vicki-Jauron, Babylon and Beyond Photography / Getty Images)

August in the backyard can be full of family drama for prospective bathing birds, especially when fledgling season reaches its peak. To an uncoordinated juvenile, a bird bath looks like an ocean. Young cardinals and robins are notoriously clumsy bathers, and that waiting branch helps bewildered babes find their feet while their parents demonstrate the art of the splash. The waiting branch also gives them the best chance to preen safely as they get to grips with new post-splash sensations.

For adult birds, the primary fear is getting trapped. Relying on just one landing stick can create a frustrating traffic jam, or situations where bossy blue jays or grackles might corner shy goldfinches and juncos. Incorporating a few staggered perches gives timid bathers like nuthatches an instant escape in either direction.

(Image credit: Linnette Engler / 500px / Getty Images)

Finally, there’s also the birdy fear of approaching a bird bath that might be too still. You can improve your chances of attracting more birdies even further by ensuring that your bird bath features some continuous, gentle movement. Adding subtle water motion with a wiggler like the Solar Water Wiggler from Walmart helps to reassure your perch-bound birdies that the bath is active, safe and clean. Happy splashing!

Shop Bird Bath Extras

(Image credit: Bonnie Taylor Barry / Shutterstock)

Once your waiting branch is in place and your local songbirds feel safe surveying the scene, it’s all about keeping your splash zone sparkling and active. These small extras make a huge difference to birdlife visiting your yard. Use these choice bathing picks to help create a safe, clean and popular poolside vibe all summer long.

Second Splash

Bakayoyo Bakayoyo Ceramic Bird Bath for Ground and Decks

Elevated pedestal baths are great for main lawns, but this secondary bath helps ground-dwelling towhees, juncos, and sparrows. This shallow saucer is ideal for placing near the base of your serviceberry, and a fine compact choice for balconies. Its textured bottom is kind to small feet. Lovely, low-stress backup for timid bathers.

Motion Magic

Mademax Mademax Solar Powered Floating Fountain Pump

Once you’ve got your waiting branch set up, call in the visual reinforcements! Songbirds will be drawn to the glint and trickling sound of moving water. This solar floating fountain creates gentle, dancing sprays, indicating to nervous bathers that the water is fresh and shallow, while keeping mosquitoes from spoiling the fun.

Clean Sweep

Modanu Modanu Ergonomic Bird Bath Brush

Keep your summer bird bath clean with this ergonomic utility brush. The stiff, durable bristles work well on stubborn algae, feather dust, and mineral deposits without scratching delicate ceramic or resin bowls. Clean with a small amount of diluted white vinegar for a safe deep clean that keeps your basin sparkle fresh for birdies.

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Black spot turns up on roses nearly everywhere they are grown. The fungus behind it, Diplocarpon rosae, needs one thing above all else to get established, and that is wet foliage. Everything else about rose care either shortens the window of leaf wetness or stretches it out. The difference usually comes down to habit rather than luck.

Plenty of gardeners reach for black spot remedies the moment a spotted leaf shows up. That helps with what is already on the plant, but it does nothing to solve why the bush keeps getting reinfected. Five ordinary practices account for most of that reinfection. Luckily, each one can be fixed in an afternoon.

What Black Spot Looks Like

(Image credit: Boy_Anupong / Getty Images)

Black spot is one of the most feared rose diseases. The spots begin low on the plant and work their way up. They come up dark and roughly circular, sometimes half an inch (1.3 cm) across. Edges look fringed instead of clean. That detail is what separates black spot from the other blemishes roses collect over a season. A yellow halo spreads out from each lesion as things progress. The whole leaf then yellows and drops. Canes get pulled in too, showing small purplish blotches on the current season’s growth – those blotches are where the fungus sits out the winter.

Infection needs roughly seven hours of continuous leaf wetness at temperatures above 68°F (20°C). That is a low bar in most summers. Once infection takes, new spores can form within a couple of weeks and start the cycle over on whatever is still green.

A rose black spot spray treatment can help slow an active infection, particularly when used early. BioAdvanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs, available on Amazon, is a good option for controlling and preventing black spot. It works best, though, alongside the changes in care that stop the plant getting reinfected.

Defoliation from this common rose disease will not usually kill a rose outright. A bush stripped bare by August heads into winter with very little in reserve, though, and that is where the real damage shows up.

Five Habits That Keep Black Spot Coming Back

None of these habits is careless. They are the sort of moves a careful gardener makes on purpose when growing roses, which is what makes them hard to catch. Each one either lengthens the time rose leaves spend wet or hands the fungus somewhere to wait out the off-season.

1. Watering Overhead – and Watering Late

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Evening feels like the sensible hour to water roses. The heat has broken by then. Nothing wilts on the way in. Leaves wetted at dusk stay wet until the sun clears them the next morning, though, which lands well past the seven hours the fungus needs.

Watering in the morning hands foliage the whole day to dry out. Keeping water at soil level removes the question entirely. A soaker hose, like this 2-pack of Hlinker flat hoses from Amazon, runs along the base of the planting, delivers water straight to the roots without touching a leaf. A watering wand works too, provided the spray stays under the lowest foliage.

Spores do not travel far on their own. They need a ride, and moving water is the only one they take.

2. Leaving Fallen Leaves Where They Land

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A few dropped leaves under a rose look like nothing much. That litter is the reservoir. Diplocarpon rosae overwinters in fallen foliage and in cane lesions, then splashes back onto new growth the following spring. The loop closes there.

A rake pulled underneath the bush through the season, not only at autumn cleanup, is what opens it back up – ten minutes once a week does more here than most sprays manage. Infected leaves belong in the trash. Home compost piles rarely run hot enough to destroy the spores, and finished compost has a way of ending up right back around the roses.

Bagging debris beats stacking it at the edge of the bed, since wind moves infected foliage surprisingly well. A fresh layer of mulch over cleared ground puts a barrier between old spores and new growth. This Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch from Home Depot works well for topping cleared beds around roses.

3. Letting The Bush Close In On Itself

(Image credit: Future)

Roses fill in. Growth that had room in April crosses and tangles by July. The middle of the plant turns into a pocket of still, humid air where leaves stay damp for hours after the outside has dried.

Opening that center is ordinary structural rose pruning: taking out crossing canes and anything headed inward with a pair of sharp bypass pruners. Felco F6 pruners, available from Amazon, were rated best garden pruners in our testing. Clean cuts heal fast where crushed ones sit open. Weeds crowding the base work the same way on a smaller scale.

Spacing at planting matters as much. Roses set close together for a full look in year one are competing for air by year three, and the crowding only tightens from there.

4. Feeding Heavily For Bigger Blooms

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Nitrogen produces exactly what the label promises, which is a flush of soft new leaves. Young tissue happens to be what black spot infects most readily. A heavy spring rose feeding can therefore hand the fungus an entire canopy of easy targets right as spores begin moving.

Tailoring feeding to a soil test result rather than a calendar keeps this in check. An inexpensive soil test kit, like this MySoil Test Kit, recently reviewed by our Content Editor Kathleen, reads soil pH along with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash, so the numbers guide the bag instead of habit doing it. A bush already fighting an infection does better on steady, moderate feeding than on a big push. Late feeding causes the same trouble at a worse point in the year, pushing tender growth into the humid end of summer.

5. Working The Bushes While They Are Wet

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Deadheading roses after a rain feels efficient. The soil is soft, and the job goes quickly. Hands and blades moving through soaked foliage carry spores from leaf to leaf far more effectively than rain does on its own. Every cut opens a fresh entry point at the same time.

Waiting until the bush has dried costs a few hours. Cleaning pruners between plants, or at least between a diseased bush and a clean one, costs less than that. Neither step feels like disease control while it is happening, which might be part of why both get skipped. Roses are forgiving plants, and they tend to reward the gardener who slows down at exactly these moments.

Black Spot Resistant Roses

If black spot is a common issue in your garden, then seek out varieties bred to be resistant to the disease.

The Red Double Knock Out Rose

Perfect Plants Pink Apricot Drift Rose

Proven Winners Oso Easy Peasy Rose

Morning water, cleared ground, an open bush, a lighter hand with fertilizer, and the patience to stay out of wet foliage all pull in the same direction – and none of it costs anything. A rose given that much tends to hold its leaves into autumn instead of standing bare by August.

Have you ever heard of a stop-and-fuel garden? It is one of those low effort ideas that works wonders... especially if your goal is to a) see more hummingbirds in your garden, and b) help aforementioned hummingbirds in your garden!

Whether you're the kind of person who obsessively reads up on your birth month hummingbird or not, I suspect you'll already know that August can be a surprisingly important month for hummingbirds. Because, while our gardens may feel like they’re reaching their late-summer peak, these tiny birds are working harder than ever – feeding frequently to maintain their incredible energy levels and, for many species, preparing for migration.

That means your yard can (and should!) become more than just a pretty outdoor space. In fact, with a few thoughtful additions, you can turn it into a vital stop-and-fuel garden – aka a place where hummingbirds can quickly refuel, find themselves something to eat, and enjoy a rest before continuing on their journey.

Create A Stop-And-Fuel Garden For Hummingbirds

If you're keen to do your bit and create a stop-and-fuel garden for hummingbirds, I have some good news for you: we only need three (three!) things to create one.

Without any further ado, then...

1. Set Up A Hummingbird Feeder

The easiest way to turn your yard into a hummingbird stopover? Why, with a reliable hummingbird feeder, of course!

During late summer, when natural food sources start to dwindle, a clean feeder provides a dependable energy boost. Hummingbirds have incredibly fast metabolisms and need to consume large amounts of nectar throughout the day, so gifting them some (whether you buy it pre-made or use this DIY nectar recipe), is always a good idea.

Shop Hummingbird Feeders:

Perky-Pet Cactus Top Fill Glass Hummingbird Feeder

How pretty is this hummingbird feeder? It features built-in bee guards and removable perches!

FeatherSnap Smart Hummingbird Feeder

Get up close and personal with your hummingbird pals using this smart feeder, which sends pictures and videos straight to your phone.

Perky-Pet Window Mount Hummingbird Feeder

No garden? No problem! You can still keep hummingbirds fed and happy with this clever window-mounted design.

There is a little maintenance involved here, of course; nectar should be changed regularly, especially during hot weather, and feeders should be cleaned frequently to prevent mold and bacteria from building up.

Still, as ways to create a stop-and-fuel garden go, it's really simple! Think of it as the garden equivalent of a roadside gas station, and set up accordingly.

2. Grow A Late-Summer Flowering Plant

(Image credit: DansPhotoArt on flickr/Getty Images)

A feeder is helpful, but the best hummingbird hangouts don’t rely on artificial nectar alone. Unsurprisingly, planting flowers gives these birds a more natural food source... and it does it while adding color, movement, and life to your yard.

Some of the best hummingbird-friendly plants for August include salvia, bee balm, cardinal flower, and fuchsia – all rich in nectar and beautifully suited to late-summer borders.

I particularly love salvias for this purpose, as their tubular flowers are perfectly shaped for hummingbirds, and many varieties continue blooming well into the season, creating a long-lasting food supply.

Shop Salvias:

Nature Hills Nursery May Night Salvia

Minimal to zero deadheading required here, just plenty of purple flowers!

Nature Hills Nursery Bumbleberry Salvia

This bold salvia promises season-long color and happy bees in their droves.

Nature Hills Nursery Marcus Salvia

This compact dwarf cultivar proves size really does not matter when it comes to salvia.

A garden full of hummingbird plants has an added bonus, folks, as it also benefits other pollinators, turning your yard into a small but lively ecosystem. Beneficial for your garden, yes, but also the planet. Win win!

3. A Safe Place to Rest

(Image credit: SusanGaryPhotography/Getty Images)

Hummingbirds may be famous for their constant movement, but they also need somewhere to pause.

Adding a small tree, nesting shrub, or sheltered perch gives them a place to rest between feeding sessions and watch for potential threats. They might be cute to look at, but they are also territorial birds, so having nearby branches where they can sit and survey their surroundings can make your garden feel like a safer stopover.

Preferred Partner Proven Winners Temple of Bloom® Seven-Son Flower

Flowering in late summer and fall, this low-maintenance shrub is beloved by nesting hummingbirds.

A shallow water feature with moving water, such as a mister or gentle fountain (I rate this cute solar fountain!), is another welcome addition; hummingbirds aren’t typically attracted to deep bird baths, but they enjoy bathing in fine sprays or droplets.

Shop Hummingbird Essentials:

Qunler Qunler Solar Fountain

Hummingbirds need a water source, but typically don't love deep bird baths; something like this solar fountain would be much better.

BIRDBROS Nectar+ Hummingbird Food

Keep your feeders topped up with this safe and nourishing nectar powder.

SWEET YARDS Wildflower Seeds Butterfly and Humming Bird Mix

If you fancy a more natural approach, try planting 23 species of wildflowers for hummingbirds to enjoy.

And there we have it, everyone! Honestly, the beauty of a hummingbird stop-and-fuel garden is that it doesn’t need to be complicated. All it really takes is a good feeder, a few nectar-rich flowers, and a safe resting spot, and you can transform even a small yard or teeny balcony into a valuable wildlife refuge.

So, this August, don't just sit and watch hummingbirds pass through. Instead, take the time to gift them a place where they can pause, refuel, and return – because, after all, hummingbirds always remember a good spot and tell their friends about it. You can bet they'll be back (and in greater numbers) before too long...

August is when a tomato garden stops being a project and starts becoming a serious workload. Plants sag under the weight of fruit, harvests outpace your kitchen, and the gear that seemed optional back in June suddenly is not.

It’s typically best to buy your tomato growing gear early in the season, when the plants are small and the summer still looks manageable. By the time a vine is six feet of tangled growth loaded with fruit, the gap between what is on hand and what is needed becomes obvious fast. Luckily, that gap doesn't cost much to close.

The tomato growing tools that earn their place this late are not glamorous. They hold plants upright or help move fruit from the garden to the kitchen. Here are the essentials you should snap up now, if you didn’t buy them at the beginning of the season.

Essential August Tomato Tools

Most of the tools you need for growing tomatoes in August remain useful for years. Late-season tomato problems are often mechanical rather than mysterious. Plants fall over. Fruit gets bruised on the walk indoors. A countertop fills faster than anyone can eat through it. Here are the tools you need to help solve these common issues.

1. Heavy-Duty Tomato Cages

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The flimsy tomato cages sold every spring are the first thing to fail. An indeterminate tomato in August weighs far more than that wire was built to carry. A plant that goes over in a storm snaps stems and drops fruit onto wet soil where it rots. Damage at this stage in the season does not grow back. Fruit on the ground draws slugs besides.

A square tomato cage from Home Depot in heavy-gauge steel holds a mature plant without leaning and the wide openings make picking easier than a cone cage ever did. Fitting one over a grown plant takes patience, but still beats staking a collapsed vine after the fact. Anything already flopping can be tied to a stake driven at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep.

Another great alternative is to use modular tomato cages – Senior Editor Liz swears by this trellising method. You can easily install modular cages even when plants are large and full of heavy fruit. Just snap them together around the plant.

2. Potassium-Heavy Fertilizer

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Fertilizing tomatoes in August isn't very important – or so the thinking goes. But plants still setting fruit draw hard on potassium and container tomatoes in particular have run through all their nutrients by midsummer. A plant that quits flowering in the heat needs reserves ready for September, because a second flush is usually there for anyone who feeds it.

Espoma Tomato-tone from Amazon is a 3-4-6 mix, which puts potassium ahead of nitrogen. That's important where fruit quality is concerned. This mix includes calcium, too. Blossom end rot is nearly always a watering problem rather than a soil calcium shortage. Steady moisture corrects more cases than any product would, though. Granular feeds go in around the drip line rather than against the stem, then get watered in.

3. Sharp Bypass Pruners

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Harvesting tomatoes by hand can tear the vine. Twisting a stubborn one may snap the branch it grew on. An August plant is carrying too much fruit to spare the stems. Lower leaves need removing now as well, since foliage touching the soil gives early blight a route up the plant. Tomato suckers are worth pinching out too, since a plant this size gains nothing from more foliage.

A pair of bypass pruners from Lowe's makes clean cuts that seal quickly, unlike the crushed stubs left behind by anvil-style tools or bare fingers. Wipe the blades between plants to prevent spreading diseases. That takes seconds and slows whatever is already loose in the patch.

4. Harvest Basket

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Shirt hems and buckets both fail when you have a hefty tomato harvest in August. A shirt holds a limited number of tomatoes before something drops and a solid bucket lets the bottom layer get crushed under whatever lands on top of it. Ripe fruit bruises easily, too. Anything bruised has to be used the same day.

The Fiskars harvesting basket from Amazon has a colander side, so a load can be rinsed with the hose and drained before it reaches the counter. The flat bottom sits rather than tips, which sounds minor until a full load goes over. Rinsing outside turns a two-trip job into one and soft spots show up under the water.

5. Water Bath Canner

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A big glut of ripe tomatoes always seems to land all at once. A short row of healthy plants puts out more in two weeks than the average household can eat in a month and freezer space runs out long before the vines do. Tomatoes are acidic enough for water bath canning, which is the simplest way to preserve your vegetable harvest. New lids are single-use, though the jars themselves will last decades.

A Granite Ware water bath canner from Amazon holds seven quart jars and comes with the rack, which matters more than it sounds. Lifting hot jars out of boiling water without one is how people get burned.

USDA guidance calls for added acid in every jar, usually bottled lemon juice or citric acid, since many modern tomato varieties sit close to the safety line. This step is not optional for safe consumption of canned tomatoes.

6. Frost Cloths

(Image credit: Philippe Gerber / Getty Images)

Your local first frost date is an average of past years' first frosts, not a promise. One cold night in late September can end a plant still carrying thirty green tomatoes and the forecast rarely gives more than a day or two of real warning. Anything still green when it happens will ripen indoors in a paper bag, though it never quite matches vine-ripened taste.

A floating row cover from Home Depot draped over the plants ahead of a cold night traps enough warmth to carry them through the cold snap. It goes on before dusk and off in the morning, since trapped heat can do as much harm as cold. Using frost cloths can extend your tomato harvest for two or three weeks, which is enough to separate a decent growing season from a great one.

There are around 2.5 million ants for every human on this planet, and if you feel they’re all in your yard right now, you’re not alone. This summer’s heatwave has created ideal conditions for ant populations to surge, particularly in urban areas where there are few natural predators. And the garden spot that’s a magnet for ants? Hummingbird feeders.

Ants detect sweet substances using specialized chemical receptors on their antennae, and can pick up the scent up to 20 feet away. The reason why hummingbird feeders attract so many ants is that sugar granules dissolved in water release a much stronger chemical signal than dry crystals, so are far easier to find. Once a scout ant discovers a plentiful source, it heads back to the nest, leaving behind a pheromone trail that other ants can follow – and suddenly your feeder is smothered in ants.

And that’s a problem. Ants attracted to and falling into the sugar water contaminate the food supply and can jam the small feeding holes. Hummers rarely touch a feeder that’s covered in ants either. Right now, if you’re wondering how to help hummingbirds prepare for their great migration, making your feeder ant-free should be on your to-do list. As well as the basics of keeping your feeder clean and drip-free, there are plenty of chemical-free solutions to try. Researchers have found that hummingbirds can remember their favorite feeding spots, so make sure yours stays ant-free.

1. Hang a Length of Fishing Line

One of the best ways to get rid of ants on a hummingbird feeder is to hang it from a length of fishing line. Ants can climb most things, but fishing line is too fine and slippery for them to grip. Use 20 pound fishing line such as this Stren Original Monofilament Fishing Line from Walmart to create an impassable barrier.

2. Use an Ant Moat

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Another effective but natural pest solution to prevent ants from reaching a hummingbird feeder is to attach an ant moat above it and keep it filled with water. Smaller ants are able to cross water as they’re light enough to not break the surface tension, but a moat will stop most. If you find ants are still breaching this preventive measure, simply hang two moats, one above the other.

Most ant moats come in a pack of two or four and are a cheap buy – this pack of four Red Umbrella Ant Guards from Amazon is currently $8.99 – so that’s easy to achieve.

3. Wrap Aluminum Foil Around the Hook or Pole

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Some folk say aluminum foil is too slippery for ants to grip, others reckon it disrupts their navigation signals; some say it works great, others reckon it doesn’t work at all – but as you’ve probably already got a roll handy in a kitchen drawer, it’s well worth a try. Make sure the shiny side faces outwards.

4. Sprinkle Wood Ash Around the Pole Base

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Wood ash is fine, dry and gritty enough to irritate ants, and if your feeder is on a pole, sprinkling a good amount around the base is a strong deterrent. You’ll need to re-sprinkle after rain, though, and be careful if that feeder stake is pushed into your lawn. The high alkalinity of wood ash will help to deter ants, but it can also scorch and damage grass.

5. Use Diatomaceous Earth Instead

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Diatomaceous earth is a better solution to use on lawns because it can actually help to strengthen grass. This is another fine, abrasive powder that dehydrates ants who attempt to cross it so, like wood ash, only works when it’s dry and needs reapplying after rain. Do use a food-grade product such as Harris Diatomaceous Earth from Amazon that's safe for use around animals.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What Not to Do

Whatever you do, don’t apply Vaseline or any type of oil to a hummingbird feeder pole, even at the base, to stop ants. Even a tiny amount of an oil-based product that gets onto a hummingbird’s feathers can prove fatal. Petroleum jelly in particular causes feathers to lose their waterproofing, attracts dirt and is easily spread as the bird preens, affecting the hummer’s ability to fly and, ultimately, survive.

Keeping ants off a hummingbird feeder is simple with these natural pest prevention solutions. And if you feel you need to reduce the ant population in your garden, a chemical-free ant trap using pantry staples is the answer to getting rid of ants and anthills naturally.

Feeders With Built-In Ant Moats

Saucer Style

Feed Garden Hummingbird Feeders With Built-In Ant Moats 2 Pack

classy glass

Leak-Proof Glass Hummingbird Feeder With Bee Guards and Ant Moat

Window viewing

Birdream Red Window Hummingbird Nectar Feeder With Ant Moat

A standalone privacy screen is such a cost-effective way to cool a patio while screening a seating area from neighbors’ gazes. Light enough to move around on a whim but heavy enough to stay put in a breeze, garden privacy screens add style, too, and you can choose a laser-cut pattern to suit the vibe of your backyard. Bolting together for a near-instant garden upgrade, no cursing or Quikrete required, screens are a quick fix, too.

But the best thing about privacy screens? Their versatility. Once you’re the lucky owner of a standalone screen, you’ll find all sorts of ways to put it to good use in your garden besides improving privacy. From screening a pool to zoning a patio, creating a novel trellis for a clematis, cleverly disguising an ugly aircon unit, or simply carving out a quiet nook of dappled shade to relax in, a privacy screen has endless uses. Most standalone metal designs also come with a selection of fixers for hard and soft ground, so you can also anchor them in place, and use the screen as a more permanent fixture.

No wonder, then, that a simple, stylish screen is the number one item we all want in our yards this year. Ikea’s wooden outdoor privacy screen became an overnight bestseller earlier this summer, and now Target has just dropped a ton of laser-cut metal designs and – even better! – most are currently marked down. So, how are you going to use your new outdoor privacy screen this summer?

1. Create a Cool Pool of Dappled Shade

Leafy Branch Privacy Screen

The number one way to use a privacy screen this heatwave summer is to create cool, dappled patio shade. A screen is such an easy way to add shade to a garden and a dense, detailed pattern takes the heat out of the sun’s rays but still allows light through for comfortable lounging while casting enough shade that you can see what you’re scrolling. Because these screens are easy to move, you can adjust their placement according to the sun's position to get just the right level of shade you fancy, too.

2. Divide a Patio Into Zones

Olive Gray Galvanized Steel Screen

Used midway on a patio, standalone screens will instantly zone different areas for particular uses such as seating and outdoor dining, making more of your outdoor space. Zoning your garden is one of those easy tricks landscape designers use to make a small garden feel bigger, and screens make it super-simple to achieve yourself. Need to clear the decks for a family gathering? Just move the screens to one side.

3. Disguise an Ugly AirCon Unit

Poly Screen With Wood-Grain Texture

Is there an easier way to hide an aircon unit? I don't think so! A slatted screen allows good airflow and it can be easily removed when maintenance is required. Match the color of the screen to the tone of the house wall and the disguise would work even better. This screen is the only non-metal screen in this round-up, but I couldn't let this great idea go by.

4. Create a Garden Sanctuary

2 Freestanding Metal Privacy Screens

Ever get the feeling you want to run away from the world? You're not the only one. We all use our gardens as tranquil escapes, but enclosing a seating area adds another layer of shelter, creating a welcoming nook shielded from external chaos. The beauty of using screens to create a garden sanctuary is that the enclosure isn't permanent, so you can open the area back up whenever you want to.

5. Screen an Unsightly Storage Area

Freestanding Steel Privacy Panel

We all have a garden dumping ground, some bigger than others! Creating a pupose-made area using a standalone screen is one of the easiest DIY projects to upgrade your garden storage. Using a privacy screen to disguise your garbage bins will keep your garden looking tidy, too.

6. Erect a Stylish Standalone Trellis

Diamond Arched Steel Screen

Add some planters and you can use a privacy screen as a trellis, creating an attractive standalone garden feature. So, you not only add privacy to a garden but more growing space. It’s best to choose a design with ground fixings, as filling the gaps with greenery mean the screen will catch the wind, so will need securing. Most screens come with ground fixings for both lawn and hard paving, but do check before buying.

7. Enclose a Balcony End

2 Galvanized Steel Privacy Screens

Because they’re designed to be easily repositioned, most screens are light enough to use on a balcony to create shelter, shade and privacy without compromising weight restrictions. Be sure to choose a self-assembly design so you can build your privacy screen in situ, though.

8. Add a See-Through Windbreak

Laser Cut Metal Privacy Screen

Choose a design that can be anchored securely to the ground and a privacy screen will effectively shelter a seating area from the wind without fully obstructing the view. The advantage of using an open-design privacy screen such as this is that you'll still enjoy a slight breeze.

9. Link Indoors and Outdoors

Arch Urban Maze Privacy Screen

Siting a screen in line with a house corner will immediately make a patio or deck feel more connected to the house, creating those much-coveted indoor-outdoor vibes. An arched design adds an extra layer of interior style.

10. Create a Pergola Wall

White Galvanised Steel Privacy Screen

Using standalone screens to enclose one side of a pergola creates a more sheltered, private area for outdoor dining, and the feel of an outside 'room'. Add a hanging solar pendant lamp from a central pergola strut and you're well on your way to turning your patio into an outside living room without spending a fortune.

11. Train Climbing Vines Up a Planter Screen

Metal Raised Planter Box With Screen

A screen that incorporates a raised bed means you have an inbuilt trellis to grow a pretty vine that doesn’t scramble out of control. This design has lockable 360° casters which means it’s still easy to move around and use as a mobile privacy screen.

12. Upgrade Poolside Privacy

Bamboo Leaf Silhouette Privacy Screen

A strategically placed screen provides just the right amount of pool privacy without making the space feel enclosed. Matching the screen design to your planting style will bring a plush, put-together look to your pool area, too. The bamboo leaf design of this screen matches the foliage-first planting perfectly.

13. Block Nosy Neighbors

Decorative Metal Privacy Screen

Let’s not forget the number one use for a privacy screen, shall we, of keeping neighbors' noses out of our backyard business! A laser-cut screen lets you see through the gaps at close proximity but creates an effective barrier from afar, so while you block neighbors' views into your garden, you don't obscure your view out. Along with using layers of airy planting to hide your garden goings-on from prying neighbors, a standalone screen is a must to add privacy to a backyard.

High summer is when some plants thrive and others fade away. Certain herbs like cilantro and dill tend to bolt and turn bitter as temperatures rise, but others actually reach their culinary peak in the relentless heat of late summer. It's an interesting phenomenon – heat stress triggers certain herbs to produce higher concentrations of essential oils as a natural defense against moisture loss. The plant stays healthy, yes, but it also inadvertently makes itself extra tasty!

You'll see a lot of what we call "Mediterranean herbs" on this list. That makes sense – the Mediterranean climate is hot and dry, meaning its native herbs are naturally good at making those moisture-locking oils. As such, you'll notice that they're especially common in cuisine from Italy, Greece, North Africa... all those delicious foods from the Mediterranean region.

Let's take a look at the parts of the herb garden that taste the best under the sizzling August sun, and get ready to harvest! (I find harvesting delicate herbs works best with a small pair of Fiskars snips I got on Amazon).

1. Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Basil is the king of the summer herbs. It's not just frost-tender – it'll sulk around until daytime temperatures start consistently hitting the 80s (26-32 C). Then it explodes upward and outward with large, glossy leaves that taste like nothing else on earth. It will try to flower on you, but don't let it. Pinch back flower heads or, to do one better, cut it back several nodes down to encourage bushier, healthier growth.

I find I can harvest basil in early July, cutting plants way down so just a few lower leaves remain. If the summer's warm and bright, they'll bounce back fuller than ever and be ready for a second, more flavorful harvest in August. It's great in pesto, as a garnish or, as I've recently discovered, replacing the "L" in a classic BLT sandwich.

Bonnie Plants Sweet Basil Live Plant 2-Pack

2. Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)

(Image credit: Boy_Anupong / Getty Images)

Native to the dry, sun-drenched coast of the Mediterranean, rosemary is built to withstand extreme heat and drought. It does this by producing highly-concentrated oils that contain pinene and camphor – two things that are responsible for rosemary's unmistakable piney, woodsy scent. This means sprigs harvested in late summer will be way more intensely flavored that those harvested from the same plant in winter.

To get the best flavor, harvest entire sprigs in the late morning after the dew has dried but before the afternoon heat fully sets in. Add it to focaccia, grilled meats, oil for bread dipping or, a favorite of mine, rosemary shortbread cookies.

Bonnie Plants Rosemary Live Plant 2-Pack

3. Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

(Image credit: Elena Medoks / Getty Images)

Thyme may look delicate with its tiny little leaves, but it's one of the toughest heat-seekers out there. In cooler weather it might taste mild, but in high summer it ramps up production of thymol, the compound that gives it its unique, almost medicinal bite.

When harvesting, snip off the top few inches where the leaves are the most packed with oil. A few sprigs go well on almost anything – roast vegetables, tomato sauces, or (this one's my favorite) roasted with cherry tomatoes and a block of feta cheese.

Bonnie Plants German Thyme Live Plant 2-Pack

4. Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citrodora)

(Image credit: LazingBee / Getty Images)

If you want the brightest, purest citrus flavor imaginable but don't have a lemon on hand, you're going to want lemon verbena. It thrives in high heat, when its leaves are bursting with citral oil. In the spring its foliage can taste a bit grassy, but late-summer plants have an almost perfume-like intensity to their citrus notes.

Harvest whole leafy stems during hot spells to infuse ice teas, cocktails, and simple syrups. Or just give it a squeeze when you walk past – your hands will carry that fresh, bright scent for a long time.

Name It, LLC Lemon Verbena Live Plant

5. Greek Oregano (Origanum vulgare hirtum)

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

True Greek oregano is a subspecies of common oregano that's much richer in carvacrol, the compound that gives it its punch. That means it has a much more intense flavor. If your Greek oregano still tastes bland in early summer, just wait (and stop watering!) It responds beautifully to dry, harsh summers.

For maximum flavor, harvest oregano just as the tiny white flower buds begin to form at the tips of the stems. It's great fresh, but it also keeps its flavor remarkably well when dried, which means you can savor that sharp bite all winter long.

Bonnie Plants Greek Oregano Live Plant 2-Pack

6. Summer Savory (Satureja hortensis)

(Image credit: ADELART / Getty Images)

Summer savory is the least-known plant on this list – it's much less famous than its cousin winter savory, and if we're being honest that one's not winning any popularity contests. It still deserves a spot here, though. It's a quick-growing annual that really comes into its own in the hottest stretch of summer, when its leaves are packed with thymol and carvacrol. If you've been reading closely, you'll recognize those as the major compounds in thyme and Greek oregano. Summer savory's flavor palette has echoes of both of those, but it stands up as its own unique taste.

For some reason it's become inextricably tied with bean dishes, but it also goes great with grilled vegetables and chicken.

Eden Brothers Summer Savory Seeds

August is one of the most pivotal times in our gardens because we can reap our greatest summer produce , see the beginnings of fall just around the corner and plant winter vegetables for February and March harvest.

The seasons seem to converge this month, but there is much to do to maximize each one’s potential.

After our many hours of nurturing and care in the veggie garden, we now need to take preventive maintenance steps for crops like tomatoes and potatoes, which can be destroyed almost overnight by late blight. Mid-August is the critical time frame, and all you need to do is to create a protective poly covering to keep rain off the foliage. Furthermore, when you water, please wet the soil only and not the leaves.

Your tomatoes would also appreciate a dose of tomato food with added calcium to prevent blossom end rot, which causes the bottom of the tomato to turn black. Alternatively, you can apply a little lime at the base of the plant which will also help to add calcium. Harvest season for tomatoes should continue well into September, so taking these extra precautions will ensure you can enjoy these wonderful fruits for many weeks to come.

Another other red flag in our gardens this month is the white cabbage butterfly. If you see them, they will already have laid their eggs on your brassicas. A weekly preventive spray of the biological insecticide BTK (bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) bacteria will keep the leaves of your cabbage, cauliflower, kale, broccoli and Brussels sprouts clean and ready to harvest.

If you have open space in your garden, you can still set out started plants of lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard and beets for later harvests in the fall, but try to save some real estate for winter veggies.

Over the next few weeks, you can either seed or transplant the true winter vegetables. These hardier strains of brassicas, beets, onions, carrots and lettuce were developed to grow and size up in late fall, rest in the coldest parts of winter, and be ready for harvest in late February or early March, depending on the severity of the winter.

They are cold-rated for Zone 6 growing but, when planted in the warmest location in your gardens and protected by Remay or N-Sulate during significant cold spells, their survival rate is amazing.

Purple sprouting broccoli, pure white cauliflower, tasty corn salad or Winter Density lettuce are delicious, novelty treats at that time of year. If you have never tried winter food gardening before, it is well worth a little trial.

Food preserving is making a huge comeback with the ever-increasing prices of fresh produce. Many folks have fruit trees in their gardens with the fruit simply going to waste, but making jams, jellies and preserving plums, peaches and pears and berries is a great way to enjoy them year-round.

Should you have lots to share from the garden, keep in mind that food banks are in great need of quality fresh food, but it does need to be clean. Check with your local centre to find out the best time to deliver your excess produce. You’ll be filling a very important continuing need and it is very rewarding helping so many others.

August is also the only time of year to find the unique and stunning late summer blooming crocus. The most well-known is c. sativus, also known as the saffron crocus. Planted now, they will flower in September with beautiful lavender blooms. After flowering, they will die down and stay dormant until next year when they will return with an even more stunning display. Plant lots, by the way, because it takes about one thousand stamens to produce one ounce of saffron!

Other beautiful crocus are also available in August, the largest of which is the Autumn crocus (colchicum a.). They are well worth planting, because once they naturalize over the years their display can spread to almost a meter across. Colchicums are available in soft lavender, double lavender, and white. They have not become very popular, simply through lack of public knowledge, and I think they are a huge, missed opportunity in September gardens.

There are several other varieties of fall blooming crocus too, like c. kotschyanus (zonatus) and the yellow sternbergia lutea. If you can find them, plant them for years of enjoyment.

August is also the perfect time to shift the colour palette of your garden into autumn tones. Including both late flowering perennials and early flowering ornamental grasses can transition your garden into an autumn feel.

I love the many new echinacea varieties which have been bred for increased colour selection, longer flowering habit and hardier plants. Sombrero, Double Scoop and the Sun Magic varieties are just a few of the new standouts.

Long blooming false sunflowers (heleniums) in their yellow and rust tones, or heliopsis, and the many new varieties and colours of coreopsis create a rich autumn show.

The rudbeckia family is perhaps the most significant in terms of strong, long blooming perennials that last well into October. From the two-metre tall Herbstsonne to the compact Little Goldstar, they all enrich the fall garden.

All of these beautiful and long-lasting perennials play nicely with ornamental grasses, but in particular with the rich bunny-tail plumes of pennisetum, shorter miscanthus like Yaku Jima, with its handsome bronze flower plumes, and the panicum or Switchgrass family, many of which have foliage and flowers that mature into rich burgundy tones.

August is a very different time in our gardens, opening up opportunities for winter food, September fall crocus, and a perennial and grass landscape to enhance our colour schemes for the arrival of autumn.

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August is upon us, which means that my annual panic over my green tomatoes refusing to turn red has begun in earnest. Every morning, I make my way outside and inspect them closely, searching for the slightest hint of blush. A tiny patch of pink? A warm orange glow? Any sign that my beloved tomatoes are finally ready to become the pasta sauces, salads, and summer lunches I have been imagining since I planted them.

You guessed it, folks: none whatsoever. Instead, they remain stubbornly green and completely uninterested in my plans – and nobody shares my pain, as I am far more invested in this tomato harvest than anyone else in our house. My four- and two-year-old children have already informed me (several times) that they will never, ever eat a tomato, and my husband’s taste preferences are apparently not much more adventurous.

I am the only person eagerly waiting for that perfect moment when I can finally pick my tomatoes and turn them into something delicious. This year, though, my husband (who, as well as being an avowed tomato hater, is also a professional gardener with two decades of experience under his belt) has shared his secrets with me. Finally.

Why We Shouldn't Panic Over Green Tomatoes

As it turns out, green tomatoes are not necessarily a sign that something has gone wrong. In fact, this summer’s extreme heat could be the reason they appear to have pressed pause.

Yes, while tomatoes love sunshine, they have a surprisingly specific comfort zone when it comes to ripening – specifically temperatures around 70°F to 75°F (21°C to 24°C). This is the sweet spot when it comes to efficiently producing the pigments that create their familiar red and orange colors. And so, when daytime temperatures consistently climb beyond around 85°F to 90°F (29°C to 32°C), the plant can temporarily slow down pigment production.

"That means your tomatoes might look perfectly full-sized, plump, and ready, but they will remain stuck in the 'mature green' stage until conditions become more favorable," my husband explained.

(Image credit: nicolas_ / Getty Images)

Considering he is the most zen man in the world (the joys of working outdoors), it's hardly surprising that my husband’s first piece of advice for my annual green tomatoes anxiety was to "stop panicking and give them time".

Thankfully, he knows me. He knows that, as someone who has been emotionally checking the same tomatoes every day, this is easier said than done. And so, to help soothe my torrid thoughts, he shared a few things I can do to help my tomato plants focus their energy on ripening the fruit they already have.

Shop Tomato Cooking Essentials:

Cosori Food Dehydrator

Sun dried tomatoes your vibe? This is the answer!

Walmart 32 Oz Wide Mouth Mason Jars

Whether you turn them into a pickle, sauce or chutney, you'll need jars aplenty!

IKEA Havstulpan Pizza Pan - Cast Iron 13 ¾ "

The only way I can make my children stomach a tomato is by cooking pizza!

1. Strip & Pinch

If you want to coax your green tomatoes into turning red, the first thing to do is to remove some of the lower leaves. By stripping away leaves near the bottom of the plant, you can improve airflow and allow more light to reach the developing fruit.

You can also pinch out the main growing tip of the plant. This stops it from putting energy into producing new flowers and encourages it to concentrate its remaining resources on ripening the tomatoes already growing.

2. Don't Let Them Bake

(Image credit: Vaivirga / Shutterstock)

My instinct has always been to assume that more sun must equal faster ripening, but my husband says green tomatoes (and red ones, too) are at risk of sunscald, which appears as pale, leathery patches on the skin.

"A tomato doesn’t need to be baked to ripen," he reminds me. "If you notice a tomato showing even the faintest hint of color, pick it and bring it indoors. You can leave it ripening on a kitchen counter, where conditions are often much more suitable."

3. Water Consistently

Inconsistent watering? Apparently a cardinal sin if you're trying to shift your green tomatoes into the red zone.

Regular watering at the base of the plant helps support healthy growth and can reduce problems such as fruit splitting and blossom end rot, where the bottom of the tomato becomes dark and sunken.

"The aim is consistency," my husband says pointedly (almost as if he's been watching me and sighing when my back is turned). "Not a dramatic rescue mission every few days when the soil looks desperate."

Shop Watering Essentials:

Know Before You Grow

XLUX Long Probe Soil Moisture Meter

A 16-inch probe allows you to easily measure soil moisture throughout your garden beds.

Terrain Daffodil Copper Rain Chain

Rain harvesting is already the chicest trend of all (who doesn't love to grow sustainably), but this cute AF rain chain takes things to a whole new level.

Terrain Heritage Garden Hose

Available in three eye-popping hues, this hose is here to do a job AND look good doing it.

My husband’s final piece of advice was perhaps the hardest one for me to accept: this is usually just a temporary pause, and patience (as ever) is a virtue. "Once temperatures drop and conditions become more comfortable, tomatoes often get back to the important business of ripening," he says.

I suppose I have to admit that, while my husband may not enjoy eating tomatoes, he sure does know how to grow them; reluctantly, I have to admit he might know what he’s talking about. And if a few particularly stubborn green tomatoes should still refuse to cooperate, even after all of this advice? Well, I have a backup plan. Green tomato chutney.

Wish me luck...

Late summer can be a tricky period for gardening. Temperatures may be as high as they were in July or beginning to drop. Your area might be in a drought or getting rain. This is a crucial time for most lemon trees, as the fruits are ripening. For some varieties, like Meyer lemons, they may be ready to harvest as soon as late August.

August lemon tree care depends on your region’s conditions, but often includes extra watering and keeping developing fruits safe from extreme temperatures. You could mostly leave your trees alone right now, but these few simple tasks will reduce stress, improve fruit quality, and improve overall health for this year and next.

Let's see which tasks are worth the squeeze (pun intended) in August.

1. Water Deeply But Not Frequently

(Image credit: Fatih OZ / Getty Images)

Unless it’s raining regularly in your garden, your lemon tree will appreciate a deep soaking about once a week. For most gardeners, August is hot, which means the soil around your tree’s roots will dry out more quickly. A regular but not daily soaking is better for the roots and the tree than daily light watering. The exception is a potted tree, which might need water every day. We love this citrus tree planter from Vego because it is a self-watering container so you don't have to worry about a sudden dry spell or heat wave. (It also has wheels to make it easy to move indoors as the weather cools!)

The best way to tell if your lemon tree needs some water is to stick your finger in the soil. If the first couple of inches (5 cm) are dry, it’s time to water again. Give the tree a good soaking in the morning to reduce water lost to evaporation.

2. Refresh the Mulch to Keep Roots Cool

(Image credit: Vasil Dimitrov / Getty Images)

While the summer heat blazes on, your trees can easily get stressed. Late summer heat is especially risky for citrus trees, which have shallow roots. Overheated and stressed roots can affect the entire plant, including fruit development.

If you don’t have mulch around your tree, add some. If you already have mulch, now is a good time to check it for thin spots and add fresh mulch as needed. Use wood chips, shredded bark, or compost and aim for a layer about two to four inches (5 to 10 cm) deep out to the drip line. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot. Potted trees can also benefit from mulch.

3. Fertilize, But Gently

(Image credit: Iryna Inshyna / Getty Images)

Citrus trees are heavy feeders. They benefit from regular fertilizer application throughout the summer to support healthy growth and fruit development. Balance is important, though. Too much fertilizer can damage a tree. If you applied a slow-release fertilizer in June or July, don’t feed your tree now.

If you have been using a liquid or diluted fertilizer throughout the summer, carry on applying it now. If the weather is particularly hot and dry, hold off until temperatures cool a little, and you can ensure your tree will get enough water.

Use a balanced citrus fertilizer, and if you’re unsure if your tree really needs it, dilute to half strength before applying. This GrowScripts citrus tree care kit from Fast Growing Trees has everything you need and a care calendar to help take the guesswork out of fertilizing.

4. Check for Pests

(Image credit: Tomasz Klejdysz / Getty Images)

Late summer weather can be ideal for lemon tree pests, so take the time to check leaves and fruits for them. Look for aphids, spider mites, scale, and citrus leaf miners. The latter are most commonly seen on new growth. Look at both sides of leaves, as pests often infest the undersides.

In addition to the pests themselves, some signs they are present include curling leaves, sticky honeydew with ants, webbing, and silvery trails. If you see pests or their signs, you can use organic solutions, like neem oil or insecticidal soap, to manage them. Content Editor Kathleen Walters has been using Garden Safe brand insecticidal soap from Amazon for years with great success.

A strong blast with the hose can also be effective at dislodging many pests. Early treatment is best, but also keep in mind that healthy, well-watered trees not stressed by the heat are better prepared to resist pest damage.

5. Pruning vs. Fruit Protection

(Image credit: Garna Zarina / Shutterstock)

A period of summer heat is not the best time to prune a citrus tree, as this can lead to additional stress. However, it’s beneficial at any time of year to remove any damaged part of the tree, including damaged fruits, which can leave the door open to disease. You can also remove water sprouts at the base of the trunk.

In addition to avoiding stress, not heavily pruning now is important because the canopy of the tree protects developing fruit from extreme heat. While lemon trees thrive in sun and warm climates, extreme temperatures can be damaging. Any fruit exposed to the sun during a heat wave can get burned, causing scorched and patchy skin. Leave your tree’s canopy in place for now.

August doesn’t require any major changes in care for your lemon trees. Mostly, you’re continuing what you’ve been doing all summer, making adjustments for extreme weather conditions or if you see pests.

Spend a little extra time providing water during dry, hot conditions, refreshing mulch, and checking for signs of pests, and your tree should continue to ripen healthy, juicy lemons, soon to be ready for harvesting.

Summer is a time for relaxing getaways, a great break for you but potentially a stressful time for your houseplants. Fortunately, not every plant demands daily watering or constant attention. Many popular houseplants are popular because they tolerate or even thrive on neglect.

Whether you’re planning a trip or just want low-maintenance greenery, these options are ideal. A little basic houseplant care before and after a vacation will keep these resilient beauties alive and thriving. Or if you're going away for a really long time, consider a smart plant waterer, which you can find at Amazon.

1. ZZ Plant

(Image credit: Elena Shashkina / Shutterstock)

ZZ plant, or Zamioculcas zamiifolia, is also known as Zanzibar gem and eternity plant. It has glossy, dark green leaves and grows upright, making an attractive indoor container plant.

ZZ plant is native to eastern Africa, growing in drought-prone regions. It has thick rhizomes that store water, allowing it to survive weeks of dry conditions. In your home, this means you can miss several waterings and still have a healthy plant. It also grows well in low light. Give it one good watering before you leave on a trip, and it will be fine.

United Nursery Live ZZ Plant

2. Snake Plant

(Image credit: aire images / Getty Images)

Snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata), or mother-in-law plant, is a great option for anyone new to growing houseplants and those who are gone often. It has striking, tall, sword-shaped leaves with gorgeous variegation and golden borders.

Your snake plant is one of the toughest of all houseplants. Its fleshy leaves store water, and it tolerates low-light conditions. You’re more likely to kill a snake plant with overwatering than underwatering. In fact, it’s better to leave the soil slightly dry before you head off on vacation than to give it a soaking.

Smart Planet Live Snake Plant

3. Ponytail Palm

(Image credit: Yobab / Getty Images)

Beaucarnea recurvata, the ponytail palm, gets its common name from the way the long, narrow leaves emerge in a bundle from the fleshy stem, spilling over like hair in a ponytail. These easy indoor plants are not true palms, but they provide a tropical, palm-like look and can potentially grow to six feet (1.8 m) tall in an indoor container.

Ponytail is actually a type of succulent. Native to arid regions of Central America, it has a thick, fleshy trunk, often described as an elephant foot because it is wider at the bottom. This unique trunk stores water, allowing the plant to go a week or two without attention. When going on vacation, place your ponytail palm in a sunny spot and only water it if the soil is very dry. It only needs a little moisture to survive your trip.

Costa Farms Live Ponytail Palm

4. Cast Iron Plant

(Image credit: skymoon13 / Getty Images)

Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has an apt common name. It is exceptionally tough, thrives even in lower light conditions and changing temperatures, and tolerates and forgives neglected watering. Native to Japan and China, cast iron plant gives you plenty of lush, dark green foliage with little effort.

If you plan to jet off for extended periods of time in the summer, this is the plant for you. Make sure the soil has some moisture before you leave, but there’s no need to give it a soaking. Place it in a location with indirect or dappled light, not bright, direct light.

Wayfair Live Cast Iron Plant

5. Jade

(Image credit: Andrey Nikitin / Getty Images)

Jade plant (Crassula ovata) is a classic succulent houseplant with small, fleshy leaves growing on woody stems. It thrives in conditions of bright light but dry air and soil. You only ever need to water it when the soil has completely dried out, as the leaves hold and store moisture. Another bonus of growing a jade plant: it can live for up to 70 years.

Overwatering is more often an issue with jade plants than dry soil. If you’re going on vacation, give your jade plant a good soaking a day or two before you leave. This will give you a chance to check the bottom and be sure the water is draining, and the roots aren’t sitting in soggy soil. Make sure to leave it in a spot with bright light.

Altman Plants Live Jade Plant 8-Pack

6. Pothos

(Image credit: fcafotodigital / Getty Images)

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a beloved houseplant because it’s so easy to grow and because it’s a real beauty. This is a vining plant native to Asia with glossy, heart-shaped leaves. In addition to being low-maintenance, you can choose from varieties in different shades of green, with variegation, and even with large white patches.

Pothos actually likes a decent amount of water and flourishes with a regular watering schedule. However, it is very forgiving and will bounce back quickly after being neglected for a while, even if it’s a little wilted and drooping. Before a trip, give it a good soak and leave it out of bright sunlight, which will dry out the soil more quickly.

If your summer plans include a fun getaway, you don’t have to come home to dead houseplants. Choose tough, low-maintenance, and forgiving plants like these and water them before you leave to set them up for success.

Plant Addicts Live Neon Pothos Plant

A perfectly edited room may appear calm and effortless, but then family life arrives with wet coats, bicycle helmets, laundry and charging cables.

For Vancouver interior designers Chad Falkenberg and Kelly Reynolds, minimalism is not about pretending these things do not exist. Through their studio, Falken Reynolds, they create highly resolved interiors that accommodate ordinary life without allowing its clutter to dominate.

Their clean but warm approach pairs disciplined simplicity with natural materials, fine craftsmanship and a close understanding of how clients want to live.

“For us, minimalism is never about removing character. It is about removing unnecessary distraction so the people living in the home become the focus,” says Reynolds.

Practical restraint

Rather than beginning with a look, Falkenberg and Reynolds begin with daily routines. What needs to be stored, dried or carried through the house?

These considerations become part of the architecture rather than problems to solve afterwards.

Warmth is created through natural materials, craftsmanship, texture, acoustics and the way daylight moves through a room.

The studio draws on Japanese restraint, Scandinavian comfort and the clarity of mid-century modernism, borrowing shared principles rather than reproducing recognizable styles.

“If someone walks into the house and immediately identifies a particular design movement, we’ve probably been too literal. We’d rather they simply feel calm, comfortable and connected to the home,” says Reynolds.

Falkenberg and Reynolds agree that minimalism may look simple, but it requires planning. The mistake is editing away warmth instead of clutter. A limited palette and thoughtful detailing give each element room to breathe.

Philosophy made visible

Seawall House is a great example of the Falken Reynolds approach.

Built in 1929, the Vancouver home retains the character of its Craftsman exterior while opening into a contemporary interior shaped by natural oak, generous light and exacting craftsmanship.

The clients wanted a forever home for their young family, with a life revolving around cycling the seawall, walking the beach, working from home and entertaining friends.

“The clients often talked about wanting a home that could only exist in Vancouver,” says Reynolds.

Views outdoors, natural wood to soften grey winters and practical spaces for wet clothing and equipment root the house in its setting.

Architect Peter Rose restored and evolved the exterior while navigating heritage requirements, says Falkenberg:

“The craftsmanship and detailing on the outside are remarkable. It feels as though the house has always been this way, even though almost every detail is newly built.”

Inside, Falken Reynolds respected its Craftsman origins without recreating a period interior.

The idea that materials should be touched, repaired and passed down informed solid oak appliance pulls, timber wall panelling and a staircase that quietly reinterprets traditional construction.

Warmth without clutter

Natural oak runs across floors, walls, cabinetry, furniture and stairs. Repetition is avoided through changes in scale, purpose and detail, becoming architecture in one place and furniture or a tactile surface in another.

Wood meets leather, Corian, stone and steel with enough precision to allow each material to be appreciated without competing.

Rather than selecting numerous finishes, the designers use fewer materials more extensively and allow craftsmanship to provide richness. The result feels cohesive but leaves room for belongings and memories to accumulate.

The invisible work behind calm rooms

“The most successful minimalist homes are usually the ones where the hardest work is invisible,” says Falkenberg.

They designed the Seawall house mud room with individual storage bays for all four family members, laundry facilities, drying closets, durable concrete floors and easy-to-maintain surfaces. Technology is concealed and frequently used possessions have designated places.

The lower and main floors were lifted to increase ceiling heights, allowing daylight to reach further inside and creating room to integrate lighting, storage and millwork discreetly.

“This was fundamentally an architectural intervention led by architect Peter Rose. By lifting the lower and main floors while carefully working within heritage constraints, the house became dramatically more livable without losing its relationship to the neighbourhood,” says Falkenberg.

A changing idea of home

For Falken Reynolds, global uncertainty is having an impact on how people view their homes: less showcase and more anchor.

“We’ve noticed our clients thinking more deeply about home than ever before. They’re asking questions about legacy, well-being, sustainability, family and how they want to spend the next twenty or thirty years of their lives — not simply what looks beautiful today,” says Reynolds.

That shift is visible across Falken Reynolds’ current work. Walden, a private lakeside retreat near Pemberton, spans five acres and eight buildings, with warm hemlock interiors conceived as a Canadian interpretation of a forest retreat.

They’ve also recently completed a Nova Scotia cottage using local stone, rich woods and furniture by eastern Canadian artisans. Other projects include minimalist townhouses planned around pets, a charcoal-toned penthouse and homes designed around allergies, ageing parents and multi-generational living.

Luxury that earns its place

At Seawall House, the owners asked for luxury to be expressed through details rather than grand gestures.

That might mean cabinetry made with the care of fine furniture, a carved Corian pull that doubles as a tea towel rail, or an integrated sink with fewer joins to clean and maintain.

Luxury lies not in precious surfaces, but in durable materials and thoughtful solutions that make a house easier to live in.

“Good design isn’t about creating beautiful moments. It’s about making ordinary moments feel effortless,” says Reynolds.

Related

• Getting the most out of every room in your home
• Rethinking how luxury homes are built

We all need a makeover from time to time and what fun it is to head out for a haircut, facial, and a new outfit! Well, why does it surprise you that hanging baskets need a refresh too? The baskets that looked fresh, vibrant, and gorgeous in spring will be showing their age by early August.

But don’t think of tossing out your hanging baskets! It’s a normal progression for a basket to go from picture-perfect to overgrown and tired as summer peaks and then wanes. All it needs is a mid-season refresh to wake it up and make it the star of the patio through fall.

Follow these simple tips to refresh your hanging baskets in August and get them looking perky and pretty again for fall.

How to Refresh Hanging Baskets in August

Be kind to your hanging basket in August. It has worked hard in spring and early summer, leafing, flowering, and growing that cascading foliage. By this point in the year, it’s ready to do the plant equivalent of heading to the spa.

Since it’s your job to manage your hanging basket’s mid-season makeover, it’s important to understand how to transform it from tired to admired. Below are a few simple steps for you to take to make the magic happen.

1. Snip Off Faded Flowers

(Image credit: JJ Gouin / Getty Images)

Almost everyone knows the practice known as deadheading. When flowers are blazing, they wake up the entire hanging basket and change it from just a few plants in a pot to a work of art. But as blooms fade and wilt, everything looks tired, like someone who pulled an all-nighter at the office.

Deadheading takes only a couple minutes, but it moves mountains in terms of making a difference in the look of your basket. Just by taking out the dying flowers, the basket looks younger and fresher – and it actually is. The practice not only promotes new growth, but also puts the brakes on diseases, fungus, and insects that dead blossoms can attract.

2. Remove Anything Dead or Dying

(Image credit: Arisara1978 / Getty Images)

Now that the dead blooms are gone, look carefully at the foliage that remains. By this time in the growing season, some stems and leaves are on their way out, too.

Use a sharp, sterilized pair of pruners – our experts tested and reviewed the best ones here – to snip off sections of plants that are finished. If an entire plant is done or the roots are rotting, take out the entire thing, roots and all. Removing some plants makes room for fresh new ones that will wake up the look as well.

3. Trim Leggy Stems

(Image credit: Borzaya / Getty Images)

Some stems in your hanging basket have neither died nor rotted. Instead, they have thrived. But they have grown to such an extent that their length has thrown the basket out of balance. They might be stringy at the ends or bare at the bottom.

These stems should be cut back with a bold hand. Try to take off about a third of the leggy stems. It’s hard to do but lots of these are vining plants that will produce dense new shoots quickly once the haircut happens.

4. Check the Soil and Water Accordingly

(Image credit: Getty Images)

All the flowers and foliage in your aging hanging basket share the same container of soil and get the water they need from that soil. One important step in the refresh is checking whether the soil is watered well.

Start by lifting up the basket and checking the weight of it. If the basket seems heavy, the soil is probably well watered. A bone dry basket will feel very light. To confirm, poke a finger into the soil as far as you can. If it’s dry, it is watering time. If you're unsure about the moisture levels, then a simple soil moisture meter like this one from Amazon is a great way to gain clarity and avoid either overwatering or underwatering.

If the soil is completely dry, water will run straight through it. In that case, fill up a bucket of water and put the entire inner basket into it, leaving it there for 15 minutes. Otherwise, get a watering schedule for the rest of the summer and fall. The best time to water container plants is in the morning, providing moisture to the plants well before the heat of the day while letting leaves dry fully before nightfall.

5. Fill in Spaces With Fresh Flowers

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Now comes the fun part! You’ve taken out the dead and wilting plants and deadheaded the flowers. Early August is the perfect time to freshen containers by adding new flowers for hanging baskets. Use starts from the garden center and pick a species that establishes quickly.

A few favorites of mine for refreshing sunny baskets midsummer include colorful compact zinnias, vibrant yellow calibrachoa, or pretty pink angelonia from the Home Depot. Coleus are preferred for shady baskets.

If necessary, add a little bit of fresh potting soil at the same time to give the new plants a steady base. Content Editor Laura swears by this Miracle-Gro potting mix for her containers.

6. Fertilize Your Baskets

(Image credit: Iryna Inshyna / Getty Images)

Last but not least, give your hanging baskets a boost with a fresh dose of fertilizer. By the last month of summer, your basket has used all the nutrients in the original potting soil and they are ready for additional fertilizer.

Your best choice is to use a liquid fertilizer formulated to support leaf growth and flowering, like this all-purpose organic bloom-boosting plant food from Espoma. You’ll need to dilute the product with water and use it the same time you are watering hanging baskets. This will give your plants the necessary nutrients without burning the roots.

Early August borders have a look about them, and something always gives out by midsummer. Early perennials have finished, and in some areas, there are bare patches where something failed to emerge. A corner that looked full and vibrant a few weeks ago is now probably looking a little sorry for itself, especially if you’ve had any kind of sweltering heat. But those gaps can still be filled, and the plants that manage it fastest will bloom right through until the first frost.

Not only is it OK to put these plants in the ground in August, but the conditions are at their best in many cases, so they will establish (and bloom) much faster. Warm soil is a big part of the reason. Roots move quickly in soil that’s been warming since May. The easiest flowers to grow now are those that bask in heat rather than sulk in it. Cool-season bedding won’t cope. What works are key fast gap fillers that will bloom within weeks, for a magnificent second act that will last all through fall.

To pull off this glorious late-season summer flush, it's often best to skip the seed packets. Instead, use robust nursery starts or established plugs where possible. Placing established root systems into sun-warmed earth delivers that critical instant impact. Just make sure you do go for these quick-flourishing dynamos for color-soaked beds and borders to first frosts.

Fast Flowers to Fill the August Gap

Late transplants have a shorter runway than spring options, so the planting hole matters more. Loosen the soil wider than the root ball rather than deeper, as roots spread sideways first. You also need to skip the high-nitrogen feeds, which only encourage leaves at a point in the season when flowers are the point. That said, because these are August plantings, it’s smart to add a splash of Miracle-Gro Quick Start Transplant Solution, available from Amazon. This helps to settle the soil around the roots, prevents transplant shock, and pushes early root growth. Watering the plant in its pot an hour before it goes in the ground helps, too.

(Image credit: Martin Wahlborg. Getty Images)

Full sun is what these bloomers love, though a little afternoon shade will still work. In terms of soil, drainage counts far more than richness. A gap that stays soggy after rain needs amending before anything goes in, or the roots will sit and rot instead of running.

If your soil feels packed down or worn out, give it a little aged compost, plus some perlite or coarse sand. Water deeply, and less often. Little sprinkles that only wet the top inch (2.5cm) train roots to stay shallow. If you haven’t got one, a soaker hose like the STYDDI Soaker Hose, available from Walmart, is a smart investment for late summer hydration. Do this, and these late summer bloomers will dazzle you for weeks.

1. Zinnias

(Image credit: Baldomir / Getty Images)

Zinnias (Zinnia elegans) germinate in warm earth faster than almost anything else, and direct-sowing from seed is still an option in the south. But northern and mid-country gardens will do best buying pre-grown nursery starts. Once established, zinnias take care of the show with very little fuss. All you need to do is keep deadheading fading blooms twice a week. This tells the plant to send up repeated blooms well into fall. Zinnias are starting to sell out in some places, but you can grab Meadow Decor California Zinnias from Walmart as pre-started plants for faster color.

Powdery mildew shows up on crowded plants late in the season, so leave room between plants and water strictly at the base. You can reduce the risk of mildew with a preventative spray like Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart. That way, you can keep your zinnia festival of color popping well into fall.

Meadow Decor California Zinnia Plants

2. Rudbeckias

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

This is the one that comes back! Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) behaves as a short-lived perennial or a resilient biennial through much of the country. If you fancy a rush of yellow color that establishes super-fast and can also thrive in a large, late summer planter, Glitters LIke Gold Rudbeckia Plants from Nature Hills is a volume queen with brilliant structure. If you can find it, Goldsturm is another glorious fast bloomer for dominating shape and structure to rejuvenate collapsing borders.

To ensure these tough native relatives survive upcoming winter freezes, spread a two-inch (5cm) layer of Back to the Roots Organic Hardwood Bark Mulch from Amazon around the base after watering. This organic mulch insulates roots in erratic late-summer weather and seals in moisture. Roots need to settle before the ground cools, so keep watering after the flowers stop coming. Goldfinches will love stripping the seed heads in winter, and these golden flurries keep coming into October in a mild fall.

Nature Hills Nursery Glitters Like Gold Black-Eyed Susan

3. Lantana

(Image credit: Mauritius Images GmbH / Alamy)

Heat is not a problem for lantana (L. camara). It flowers straight through the brutal heat of late summer that can flatten other bedding blooms. Add a nursery plant in August and it will keep going relentlessly until a hard freeze shuts it down. Check local guidance, though. The species has escaped cultivation across parts of the southeast and Gulf Coast, so choose non-invasive cultivars where restricted. For a frothy explosion of hot pink, orange and gold, you can pick up LA Tropic Irene Lantana from Walmart as a live plant bundle for a reasonable price.

Where it behaves, butterflies will work their fiery flower clusters all day long. This bloomer shrugs off drought once rooted, which matters when regular hand-watering tends to slip. Mounding varieties fill wide, empty gaps in days, smothering weeds under dense, dark-green foliage. If you are worried about invasive tendencies, try growing Bandana or Landmark Series Lantana in a large container or planter. They’ll add seasonal dazzle to patios with continuous, multi-colored blooms for weeks.

LA Tropic Irene Lantana Camara Plants

4. Mexican Sunflower

(Image credit: Fotografiko Eugen / Shutterstock)

Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia) puts on serious size in a hurry. A plant tucked into a gap now will be jostling against its neighbors by September. So give this one a decent space to fill, and it won’t let you down. With its glowing orange flowers, it is sure to draw in monarch butterflies during their fall migration. If you live in zones 9-11, you can still plant seeds if you hurry. Sow Right Seeds’ Mexican Sunflowers from Amazon will deliver a juicy shot of orange in warmer zones. For anywhere further north, buy this plant as an established start and set it deep.

Staking is worth considering in a windy spot, since tithonia’s hollow stems can snap in rougher weather. Adding some stakes is a smart move to protect their late-season height in rear-border gaps. Insert super-budget-friendly Lowe’s Bamboo Plant Supports alongside the main stems to protect them against late summer storms.

Sow Right Seeds Sow Right Seeds Mexican Sunflower

5. Mealycup Sage

(Image credit: Magicflute002 / Getty Images)

Blue is scarce in a late-summer border, which is reason enough to splash out on some dazzling mealycup sage (Salvia farinacea). This native’s spikes of intense color make a highly pleasing and intentional contrast against the oranges and yellows that predominate at this time of year. Salvia plants set out in August will flower within a couple of weeks and continue through the first light frosts. If you’re looking for a blast of lush blue that will establish quickly, DMOH Blue Salvia Live Plants from Amazon add hyper-rich intensity to displays.

Popular blue flowering choices include ‘Victoria Blue’ (pictured), which seem to glow in late summer borders. Bumblebees favor these salvia varieties over pretty much everything. This gap-filler handles dry spells once settled, so it’s fine if you forget the occasional watering. In zones 8 and warmer, it often returns the following year.

DMOH Blue Salvia Sage Live Plants

6. Cosmos

(Image credit: Lam Chung Yan / Getty Images)

For a reliable flurry of dainty petals, often with the most intense pinks found in nature, cosmos (C. bipinnatus) is a champ in midsummer gaps. As a bonus, they require very little in the way of planting care. Plants given too much fertility run to heavy foliage and quit flowering, so varieties like Sonata are best in sandy, coarse spots. For a major talking point that will also work well in containers, try the sultry Cosmos Chocamocha by Sacred Roots Nursery from Walmart as pre-grown plants.

Bees and hoverflies work them constantly, which is part of the appeal this late in the year. Pollinators are still out in force long after the early-season buffet has closed. To keep these delicate, multi-branching plants producing continuous daisy-like blooms without pushing excess leaves, feed them a little liquid seaweed supplement every fortnight. Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon delivers rich organic trace minerals for quick, continuous bud formation.

Sacred Roots Nursery Cosmos Chocamocha Live Starter Plant

7. Calibrachoa (Million Bells)

(Image credit: Patstock / Getty Images)

Not every gap is in the ground. Calibrachoa (Million Bells) fill midsummer holes that are opening up in containers and window boxes, when spring plantings have gone leggy and tired. They flower continuously without deadheading, which is unusual for such heavy bloomers. They are perfect for giving a refresh to tired porch pots, patio planters, and hanging baskets. For lush amber and purple flower heads, try Proven Winners Superbells Double Vintage Coral Calibrachoa from Plant Addicts.

Feeding matters more with container blooms, which tend to exhaust soil nutrients faster. Espoma Organic Bloom Concentrate, available from Amazon, is perfect for nurturing super blooms and keeping them coming well into the cooler season. Applied once a week, this feeding corrects any pale foliage fast, supplying the exact nutrient ratio needed to keep your bells cascading until late autumn.

Proven Winners Superbells® Double Vintage Coral™ Calibrachoa

8. Nasturtiums

(Image credit: Danita Delimont Creative / Alamy)

If you’re looking for a generous fast-gap filler that keeps local pests in hand and also doubles up as a spicy salad garnish, this late summer treat can fire on all cylinders. Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) ask for almost nothing once in place. Poor ground actually suits them, since fertile beds push lush leaves at the expense of flowers. And planted near high-value crops, they pull aphids away and onto their own leaves. You can get lush dazzling Whirly Bird Mix Nasturtium Plants from Walmart for zingy brights and generous foliage that will cloak gaps in weeks and bloom on repeat.

Tucking this jewel into front-of-border gaps creates a rapid carpet of circular foliage that fills gaps almost as soon as planted. Should your nasturtiums attract a heavy colony of aphids while acting as a trap plant, you can manage the infestation gently using a gentle insecticide or horticultural soap. Keeping it organic means it won’t cause issues for any edible harvests or visiting pollinators.

FlowersBulbs Whirly Bird Mix Live Plants

A bed replanted with the right choices this month can often look better and brighter than those earlier flowers. Frost will eventually end the party, of course, but these jazzy bloomers set you up beautifully for that late-season spectacular. Personally, I think there is something wonderful to a season that goes out with fireworks, rather than trailing off quietly. So, grab a few healthy nursery starts, give them a deep drink, and get them in the ground right now.

(Image credit: TC397 / Getty Images)

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

• TIME: 10 minutes
• RATING: Easy
• REWARD: Helps lavender survive winter

There’s an old gardening memory trick that says you should prune 8 inches from lavender plants on the eighth day of the eighth month. While there’s no need to stick exactly to this rule, there’s an awful lot of growing sense stored in those three digits. By August 8th, the flowers of most lavender varieties have faded, but the soil is still plenty warm enough to encourage new growth. And by trimming those old flower spikes, along with an inch or so of the foliage below, you’ll trigger the plant to grow a dense covering of new leaves. So if you're growing lavender in your garden, this is a quick and easy weekend win.

By following the 8-8-8 rule, there’s enough time for the fresh growth to harden before temperatures plummet, and this cloak of close-knit evergreen leaves will effectively insulate the plant through winter. And that means it’ll be in better shape next year, ready for another summer of abundant blooms..

The other benefit to trimming lavender in early August is keeping the plant compact and bushy, for a denser display of flowers next year. Pruning lavender plants now means you can shape them into a neat silver-leaved dome that will look good all through fall, winter and spring. A late summer trim makes it super-simple to avoid the biggest lavender pruning mistake of all, too: cutting into old wood, from which new stems probably won’t grow back.

Oh yes, and there’s an additional treat for you as well – but we’ll get to that!

How to Prune Lavender in August1. Pick the Perfect Time

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

There's no need be exact about dates or measurements when you're deciding when to prune lavender. While the 888 lavender rule is a handy reminder, lavender should be trimmed once its flower spikes have faded and started to dry out, and the exact timing will differ between varieties and growing zones. But it's very likely to be right now.

2. Find Fresh Growth

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Don’t stick to trimming off exactly 8 inches either. While that’s generally the right ballpark for most lavender types, you should aim to prune the faded flower stalk with around an inch of foliage. This is going to differ between a young and a mature plant, too, so use your judgement: you want to remove some of this year’s foliage but you don’t want to cut into the older, woodier stems below, which may not resprout.

Take a closer look at your plant and you'll probably spot a layer of fresh new silvery leaves against the greener foliage, above the brown woody stems. This is the perfect place to make your cuts as the stems here are lush, healthy, and ready to regrow.

3. Cut off Faded Flower Stalks

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Use a sharp pair of bypass pruning shears, such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruners from Walmart, and if you haven’t sharpened your pruners in a while, do take a moment to before you begin. Clean cuts made with sharp blades heal much faster, so your plant can get on with the important business of growing fresh foliage, and it’s a two-minute task with a sharpening tool such as this $10 blade sharpener from Amazon.

Hold a bunch of stems in one hand and cut through the centre of this layer of fresh foliage with your pruners.

4. Shape the Plant

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Once you’ve removed all the flower stalks, take a moment to consider the shape of your plant. If it’s a border plant, you may want to encourage it into a dome shape; if you’re growing a low lavender hedge, then you might want the sides to be straighter. I’m shaping this lavender plant to drape over the side of this raised bed so soften this patio corner, so I'm leaving the stems on one side slightly longer than those on the top.

Just be aware that if you cut into the woody part of the stems, they may not reshoot – but you can use that to your advantage, if you want the plant to ‘travel’ in a particular direction. The color difference between the older, brown woody stems at the plant base and the newer, green soft stems higher up is very clear at this time of the year, so it’s easy to tell.

5. Water to Aid Recovery

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Pruning is a stressful event for any plant, so give your lavender a good water once you’re finished to help it recover quickly, and get growing again.

And that’s it, your weekend win is done! Thanks to its quick trim, your plant will now grow a snug coat of evergreen foliage that'll keep it cosy all through winter. And there’s a quick trick that will keep you happy in the cold season, too.

Before you make your pruning cuts, tie a ribbon tightly around a handful of stems, then trim as before.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

You'll be left with a bunch of dried lavender to hang up indoors and scent your home. Deciding whether or not to strip the foliage from the stems will change the lavender's scent. The leaves typically have a slightly sharper, more resinous scent, adding depth and strength to the fragrance, which would be beneficial if you wanted to hang your posy in a bathroom, perhaps. In a bedroom, however, stripping the foliage so you enjoy just the sweeter fragrance of the flowers would give a softer, more calming aroma.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Either way, the scent will remind you of the plethora of fragranced flowers you can look forward to next summer – and boy will you get plenty, thanks to your timely August weekend win. If you want to give your plant some more TLC, then treating lavender to a gravel mulch is next on my to-do list.

Before and After

I always find it really useful to see a before and after of gardening jobs, so I know exactly what I'm aiming to achieve. Here's what my lavender plant looked like before its August prune:

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Here's what my lavender plant looked like after its August prune.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)New Lavender Varieties That Are Better Than Ever

Best for Resilience

Phenomenal Lavender

Lavandula x intermedia 'Phenomenal’ is a newer hybrid that's the toughest lavender out there, coping with cold winters and heatwave summers. Zones 5-9.

Best for Flowers

Sensational! Lavender

Lavandula x intermedia Sensational! reblooms with plump flowers from May to September and tolerates heat and humidity far better than most. Zones 5-9.

Best for a change

Exceptional Lavender

Lavandula x intermedia Exceptional has white flowers that almost glow against its narrow silvery foliage, and smells just as good as its purple cousins. Zones 5-9.

Gardening is usually associated with escape: a quiet corner of calm, a chance to slow down, or a way to create something beautiful in an increasingly hectic world. But in Netflix's survival thriller The Last House, growing things takes on a far more urgent meaning.

When a family of four wakes to find themselves mysteriously sealed inside their home, everyday comforts quickly become necessities. And, when food supplies begin to dwindle and panic sets in, survival becomes the priority – which means that cultivating plants becomes less about aesthetics and more about resilience and resistance.

For Greta Lee, who stars in the film, that idea feels surprisingly close to home. Gardening isn't simply something she explored for The Last House; it's already an important part of her own life, both personally and with her children.

Gardening is Key To Survival in Netflix's The Last House

The film taps into something increasingly familiar: the idea that gardens are not just places of beauty, but sources of nourishment, patience, and hope (there's a reason preppers and their survival gardens are always such a beacon of planting inspiration on Reddit). At their most fundamental, they remind us that life continues even when circumstances become uncertain.

When I ask Greta what she'd grow if she were creating her own survival garden, her answer is refreshingly practical. "Lemon, kale, and potatoes," she tells me. And, while it's a simple list, it's one that says plenty. Reliable crops, nutritional staples, and something capable of lifting the spirits? Why, that's exactly what you'd hope for if the world outside suddenly became unpredictable.

Even imagining being trapped inside one house indefinitely, Greta's dream garden isn't pristine or overly designed. Quite the opposite, actually. "Definitely something a little on the wilder side and not so manicured," she says. "Flowering plants that attract bees and birds, maybe a fruit tree, long grasses being blown around in the wind."

Shop Greta Lee's Survival Crop Picks:

KALE

Survival Garden Seeds Kale Seeds 5 Variety Packs - Biennial Full Sun Vegetable

Kale is one of those easy and nutritious greens everyone should try growing.

KALE

JAVAGREEN Myers Lemon . Grafted 2-4 Ft Tall. We Ship to All States

Lemon promises flavor and a delicious vitamin C boost, if you can do it properly!

POTATOES

CZ Grain Russet Seed Potatos for Planting - Easy to Grow (2 Pounds)

Boil 'em, mash 'em, stick 'em in a stew? Potatoes are versatile and so easy!

Her reasoning feels particularly poignant given the premise of The Last House. "You would want a view of a garden that feels very alive and has a lot going on, not only because you would be desperate for any means of entertainment, but I think it would give you hope. The world keeps going, things keep growing, even when you feel trapped."

For anyone who's ever found comfort in stepping outside after a difficult day, that sentiment will feel familiar. Gardens offer more than beauty, after all; they offer a sense of continuity, a reminder that change and renewal are always happening around us. And, away from the cameras, Greta says gardening has become one of the ways she reconnects with the natural world after the intensity of filming.

"Gardening is incredibly grounding. And humbling," she says. "The plants are in charge. Nature is in charge. You can't manipulate the weather or tell a seedling it needs to grow faster. You have to be patient, slow down and take things as they come. I find gardening to be really restorative. There's a lot to learn from nature."

(Image credit: Netflix)

Of course, nature isn't always gentle; every gardener knows that behind every beautiful border lies something capable of surprising us, whether it's invasive plants, toxic flowers, or species that seem almost otherworldly. With that in mind, then, I ask Greta whether there's a plant that genuinely unnerves her.

"Not necessarily creeped out," she says. "More like profound respect and fear."

Her answer is sacred datura (Datura wrightii), a striking flowering perennial that grows throughout her neighborhood. "It's used for traditional Indigenous ceremonies, spiritual visions, and historical localized medicines," she explains, "though it is extremely toxic and potentially fatal."

(Image credit: Netflix)

The plant contains powerful tropane alkaloids, and accidental ingestion can cause severe delirium, hallucinations, confusion, blurred vision, coma, and, in some cases, death. It's beautiful, fascinating, and a reminder that nature often commands as much respect as admiration.

Then again, not every memorable garden plant is dangerous; sometimes it's simply unstoppable – a fact Greta underlines when I ask her about the most resilient plant she's ever grown. "Mint! Mint is crazy!" she laughs. "You cannot plant mint willy-nilly. It spreads super aggressively through rhizomes. You must plant with purpose!"

Somewhat unexpectedly, she forges a connection between mint and The Last House. "Mint is like the love that spreads amongst the Delgado family. Strong and unbeatable," she points out. "See what I did there?"

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Considering the slew of headlines we keep being treated to on a daily basis, it's unsurprising that the idea that gardening can represent resilience is also appearing far beyond The Last House. Indeed, Zach Galifianakis' unexpectedly funny and endlessly curious series This Is A Gardening Show recently showcased our changing relationship with the land, using comedy to deliver a more serious message: “the future is agrarian.”

Together, these stories point towards a broader shift in how we think about growing things. Gardening is no longer being portrayed simply as a peaceful hobby or a way to make outdoor spaces look beautiful. Increasingly, it is being framed as a skill tied to self-sufficiency, connection, and survival.

Yes, there is still joy in growing roses and arranging cut flowers, but there is also a growing recognition that understanding plants, cultivating food, and working with nature may be some of the most valuable skills we can develop. I guess it all goes to show that, if gardening is getting a rebrand, survival might just be its most compelling new look.

Greta Lee's The Last House is now streaming on Netflix.

Moles and voles can be confused because of the similarity of their names, but they aren’t similar animals. Unfortunately, for many gardeners though, they are both pesky little creatures that can create damage in the lawn and landscaping.

Luckily, identifying the animals digging holes and damaging plants is quite easy with these two. Moles are underground insectivores and voles are small rodents who do their work above ground. If you have ever walked through your yard and felt the ground suddenly give way under your foot, that is from a mole. Seeing narrow little tracks carved through your lawn or groundcover indicates voles.

Let’s dig in and see what differentiates moles and voles and what you can do to keep them at bay.

Moles

(Image credit: Natalia Kokhanova / Getty Images)

Moles are insect-eating mammals who burrow underground and can a mess of your lawn. Their tunnels are easy to roll an ankle in and their mole hills make for unsightly lumps of dirt all over the yard.

Moles are 6-8 inches (15.2-20.3 cm) long and have velvety gray fur. Their large front feet have claws that make digging a breeze, and they have very small eyes and ears. They love to eat earthworms, so even if your lawn is free of other bugs, moles can still be present. When the weather is hot, earthworms and other insects go deeper underground and the moles will follow them. This might make you think you have gotten rid of them, but then they pop up again as the weather cools!

There are some humane ways to get rid of moles like creating a trap with a coffee can, but unfortunately, the only foolproof way to fully get rid of them is to kill them. Talk with your local extension office or a local pest control company for help. However, moles don’t usually do any lasting damage to your lawn and they play a vital role in our ecosystem, so maybe a little pile of dirt isn’t so bad, after all.

Voles

(Image credit: Jonas Hanacek / Getty Images)

Voles, on the other hand, can do some minor damage to plants, trees, and turf. Voles are stout, little rodents that resemble mice, though they have much shorter legs and tails. Their bodies are typically 3.5-5 inches (8.9-12.7 cm) long and they like to chew paths through grass and groundcover to make their travel easier.

If you have voles, you will see a 2-inch wide pathway going around the yard. Gnawed trunks on trees and shrubs, and chewed stems and leaves on other plants are also giveaways. You might spot them eating spilled seeds from your bird feeders, too.

Mowing your lawn regularly, edging grass around structures and log piles, and keeping on top of weeding will help to reduce vole populations in your yard. Cleaning up that bird seed under your feeder or using a bird seed catch tray like this one from Amazon will help prevent them from coming around looking for a free snack.

Now that you know which one you are dealing with, you can get to work to make your garden a little less friendly, for pests that it is!

A brown lawn can be a summer bummer, but it’s very common and doesn’t usually mean your grass is dead. Turfgrasses are generally categorized as cool season and warm season depending on when they go dormant. In most cases, brown summer grass is simply dormant cool-season turf that needs a refresh.

Brown grass is not necessarily a reason to panic, especially during the hottest, driest days of summer. Browning up is a survival strategy and there are some simple signs you can check before assuming your grass is dead.

Below I’ll reveal some of the most common reasons for dying grass, signs your grass is dormant rather than dead and ready to bounce back, and tips for getting it green and healthy again by fall.

Dormant or Dead?

Grass naturally goes dormant under certain conditions (in the case of cool-season grasses, heat and drought trigger dormancy) to conserve water and protect the roots and crowns. Dormant grass comes back to life when conditions become more favorable.

Let’s take a look at some clues that can help you determine if your grass is dead or just dormant:

• Hot, dry weather. If you grow cool-season grass, temperatures are soaring, and it hasn’t rained for a while, your brown grass is probably dormant. Dormant grass looks evenly brown rather than patchy.
• Brown patches. Patchiness in your lawn is more likely to be a sign that the brown grass is dead because heat and dryness tend to affect the entire lawn. Smaller areas of brown grass could be dead due to pests, fungal lawn diseases, poor drainage, or animal urination. Pull up a small section of grass to look for grubs or other pests and mushy, soggy roots, signs of a problem deeper than dormancy.
• The pull test. Gently pull on a clump of grass in a brown area. If it resists the pull, the roots are still strong and it’s likely dormant. If the clump comes out very easily, you probably have dead grass.

(Image credit: lingqi xie / Getty Images)Signs Grass Will Bounce Back by Fall

If you’re not sure what’s going on with your lawn, these signs are reasons for hope. These are typical signs your grass is still healthy and will green up again within a few weeks, either before or by fall.

1. The Crown Looks Healthy

The crown is the part of the plant where the roots meet the blades right at the soil level. To inspect the crown, separate the blades in a clump of grass and have a look. Use a garden tool like a trowel to dig into the soil a little if necessary.

A healthy crown is firm and white or light green. If the blades are brown but the crown still looks healthy, you likely have dormant grass that will come back to life. A mushy, brown crown is more concerning.

If you see a healthy crown, you can revive your dormant grass with regular, deep watering. Water the lawn once or twice a week, aiming for about an inch (2.5 cm) of water at a time. This is a more effective method than watering lightly every day.

(Image credit: VanderWolf-Images / Getty Images)2. Deep Watering Leads to New Green Growth

If you suspect your grass is only dormant due to hot and dry conditions, watering deeply should trigger some fresh, healthy growth. A burst of rain can also trigger new growth.

Water the brown grass deeply once or twice and check for growth at the base of plants a week or so later. This is a good sign to carry on with regular watering to revive the turf.

Regular, deep watering should be your focus right now. Hook up an oscillating sprinkler, like this one from the Home Depot, to a hose to give your whole lawn a good drink.

Hold off on mowing the newly growing grass and avoid using any lawn fertilizer, which can scorch stressed roots. Once the new grass is long and lush, you can start mowing your lawn again and do any necessary fertilizer applications.

(Image credit: Getty Images)3. Your Lawn is Uniformly Brown, Not Patchy

Uniform brown coloring across the lawn is actually a good sign. Dormancy is triggered in all grass when conditions turn hot and dry. The only patchiness you might see is related to regional conditions. For instance, grass will stay greener longer in shady areas and ditches, which retain more moisture.

To revive your uniformly brown lawn, you can begin regular, weekly deep watering or you can simply wait for rain. Healthy grass can stay dormant and still recover after three to six weeks.

This is important for areas under water restrictions. Check the weather for upcoming rain and determine if your grass can wait.

4. There's Moisture Below the Surface

Grass can still recover after weeks of dormancy, but there is a limit. During a serious drought, your brown, dormant grass might actually die. If you haven’t been paying attention to the duration of browning, check the soil for moisture with a simple moisture meter, like this one from Amazon.

Another way to check is to choose a brown area of grass and dig down two or three inches (5-7.5 cm). If the soil is dry above but moist down at this depth, there is still hope.

You can revive this grass with deep watering. You can also aerate your lawn in late summer or early fall to make it easier for the soil to hold onto water in the future.

(Image credit: Lightspring / Shutterstock)5. Weeds Are Still Growing

Weeds can be a nuisance in turfgrass, but weeds can also indicate the health of your lawn during drought conditions. If your grass is browning but you still have some weed growth, this is a good sign. Many weeds are more heat-tolerant than grass and will continue to grow, indicating there is some moisture in the soil and your grass will recover.

Watering will revive your lawn at this point, but it will also support weed growth. Resist the urge to start aggressively managing weeds. Any herbicides applied now can damage your stressed turfgrass. Focus on bringing the grass back to life, then address the weeds.

It's a wonder that any plants are still alive in my no-water border, but some are flourishing and flowering – and they’re not the usual drought-tolerant plants everyone shouts about either. Some plants were nonchalant about the lack of water from the get-go, others drooped dramatically to begin with but then quickly got back to business. And yes, a few died. But like some greenfingered episode of Love, Lust or Run, it’s been very surprising which plants ended up in each of these three categories.

My zero-water garden experiment has been on-going for over two years now. It wasn’t planned, and I certainly didn’t have the foresight to know extreme drought resistance would be so useful in this El Niño summer. You see, I usually water the garden early in the morning, before I start work. But this big border runs along the front drive and, while I’m happy to potter around the back garden in my pajamas of a morning, I’d sooner not have the neighbors see my nightwear. And so, despite this being a sun-drenched raised bed running to three railway sleepers high at one end so the soil is incredibly fast-draining, I stopped bothering to water it.

My future-proofing plan was to replace any plants that hit the dust with a drought-tolerant ornamental grass that required zero attention from me apart from a quick shear in early spring. But I haven't yet had to: as the less drought-resistant plants moved on, the more resilient ones expanded into the space left behind. Even so, when this heatwave summer arrived – and I live in a dry part of the country that hasn’t seen a drop of rain for 8 weeks now – surely these tough cookies would give up the ghost, I thought. And just so you know how hot and dry this long bed is, here's how the hardy geraniums – widely considered to be a reliably drought-tolerant plant – are currently faring.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Bad, huh? Now, I’m all for a low-maintenance garden and my plot is full of easy-care plants that practically grow themselves, and my patio is packed with happy-in-a-pot perennials that thrive on neglect. But 10 beauties in this border have surpassed all my expectations, and here are those hero drought-tolerant plants that I haven’t watered for over two years.

1. New York Aster

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

This Michaelmas daisy starts flowering in late August (I took this photo last September) and doesn’t stop till November, and the plant is smothered with hundreds of these beautiful little lavender blooms, even if it hasn't had a drink for weeks. Bees really appreciate this late source of nectar, and I’m grateful for this lovely shot of late-season color.

Powdery mildew can be an issue for asters but Symphyotrichum novi-belgii is particularly resistant. Its only vice is that the stems can be a little straggly. My simple solution is to not bother chopping the previous year’s stems down in spring, so the new growth rises through this woody framework.

Zones 4-8 American Beauties Native Plants Bluebird Smooth Aster

2. Red Valerian

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Centranthus ruber, also known as Jupiter's beard, is a real trooper in my no-water bed, with bright pink flowers appearing in late spring and continuing all the way into fall – and that’s without me ever deadheading. The foliage is a pretty gray-green, too, and lasts through most of winter. This Mediterranean native is thriving in several spots through the border, having self-seeded itself into bare patches where other, less resilient plants have given up the fight. I'm happy for it to spread – it’s assertive rather than aggressive – and the butterflies love its nectar-rich flowers.

Zones 5-9 Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber) Heirloom Seeds

3. English Shrub Rose

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

There are two English shrub roses in this border and both are flourishing despite a complete absence of water, deadheading or proper pruning. This repeat-flowering beauty is Desdemona, an English shrub rose by David Austin Roses, and has peachy buds that open to white chalice-shaped blooms with just a hint of blush pink. It’s right next to the spot I park my car so whenever I arrive home in summer, I’m greeted by its sweet but fresh scent of almond blossom and lemon zest.

Those tiny pink spots are caused by thrips or Botrytis cinerea but this rose gets them every year and I do nothing about it, and it's always fine. Honestly, this beautiful rose deserves far better care!

Zones 5-11 Desdemona Rose in 1 Gallon Pot

4. Lavender Grosso

(Image credit: Getty Images)

I grow lots of different lavender varieties, and all thrive on neglect. But lavender Grosso copes the best, even though it’s in my most neglected border. The purple spikes last from July to September and the mound of silvery foliage looks pretty all through winter. This is the one plant in this border that does get a trim, but only because I regularly raid its stems to make all manner of lavender crafts. This year, I turned the stems into solar-powered lavender lampshades for the patio!

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Zones 5-8 Grosso Lavender

5. Fuchsia Sunray

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

We all have a plant we dislike for no good reason, and fuchsia is mine – though the cause of my aversion is that I have to check how to spell it every time I write its name down which, as a gardening editor, is often. But even I can’t harbor any hatred for this little Fuchsia ‘Sunray’ because it’s an absolute joy. I’ve never watered, pruned or deadheaded it, yet every year it flowers non-stop from June to October, and its variegated red-flushed foliage is just as pretty as its pink and purple blooms.

This darling little fuchsia only grows to two feet high but, as it's planted at the front edge of the raised bed, the flowers dangle over the edge, dancing in the slightest breeze. This variety is only considered borderline hardy, so mulching or fleece protection is recommended to keep it cosy over winter. I’ve paid no heed to this advice and the plant is still alive: go figure.

6. Sedum Pine Forest

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I have plenty of flowering groundcover in this bed so it looks smartish without me ever weeding it, other than occasionally pulling out strings of bindweed that loves the sunny, dry conditions. In particular, I use sedum as a drought-tolerant groundcover because of its firebreak capabilities. And out of all the different varieties, this Sedum reflexum is doing the best in the extreme heat and drought of this summer. It’s ‘Pine Forest’ and the succulent foliage does indeed resemble a miniature pine forest, which brings a lovely texture to parts of my no-water border.

This stonecrop is only a couple of inches tall but it’s spread well though never so much that I’ve had to pull any up. In early summer, it throws up tiny yellow flowers that bees and butterflies love, too.

Zones 3-9 Altman Plants 10" X 20" Sedum Succulent Ground Cover

7. Blackcurrant Sage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Salvia microphylla has wonderfully bright two-lipped flowers, and the delightful fragrance of its evergreen foliage reminds me of drinking blackcurrant cordial as a kid. Though this is sometimes known as baby sage, it grows to 3 feet (and I’m sure would make 4 feet if it ever had a drink) and though it sailed through its first no-water summers, it is getting some scorched blooms in this year’s unrelenting heat.

Though it’s only rated as hardy to 14°C (-10°F), this plant has successfully made it through several winters, and I suspect that’s down to the very well-draining soil.

8. St John's Wort

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This St John's Wort shrub has grown into a foot-high groundcover of fresh green leaves that sporadically flushes with these small but dramatic golden flowers through summer and fall. Traditional wisdom is that Hypericum calycinum, also known as Aaron's beard, needs moist but well-drained soil but honestly, it couldn’t be happier.

Zones 5-9 St. John's Wort Plant in 1 Quart Pot

9. Red Hot Poker

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Kniphofia uvaria is also known as the flame flower and torch lily, and I always look forward to seeing these rockets of color firing up my zero-water border in summer. Red hot pokers are another plant that supposedly need well-draining but moist soil, so I’m surprised these are still flourishing three summers into my self-enforced hosepipe ban. With more water, I’m sure the plants would flower for longer, but they’re doing just fine without.

Zones 6-9 Pyromania Rocket's Red Glare Red Hot Poker

10. Photinia Pink Crispy

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

While photinia is usually used for hedging, its evergreen foliage makes it a useful border plant to keep gardens looking good through winter. The heavily marbled variegated foliage of this Photinia x fraseri ‘Pink Crispy’ adds so much appeal to my front-of-house border when many other plants have settled into dormancy for the winter. And, while its white early-summer flowers are tiny, this pretty foliage emerges a wonderful pink in spring, creating quite the show.

This variety is also very compact compared to many of its cousins and, although it’s capable or reaching 6 feet, my shrub tops out at around 3 feet in this water-starved soil.

Zones 7-9 Red Tip Photinia Shrub

I inherited all these plants when I bought the house, so they were well established long before I stopped watering them, and their extensive root systems adds to their drought tolerance. And while this border sits in the sun for most of the day, it is shaded for a few hours over midday, so these heat-tolerant plants are spared the most scorching of rays. I'd say all the plants in this border fall into the 'easy to grow' category, too.

Still, many of these plants are surprising survivors: if I were planning a zero-water border from scratch, I’d perhaps include the lavender, red valerian and sedum, but I certainly wouldn’t be choosing to plant a rose. But as my accidental xeriscaping experiment has shown, some plants might be absolutely fine with less water than we traditionally think.

For the last decade, I’ve been making easy switches to get more flowers for less work, to create a garden that almost takes care of itself. And now I’m experimenting with watering other borders a little less, to see how they cope, and if plants can be trained to become more drought-tolerant. And right now, any clever cheats to make gardening easier in this heatwave summer are to be welcomed.

Is there such a thing as a lavender dupe? Of course there is! In fact, you may find that there’s a plant out there that actually does the job even better than the original.

It sounds almost sacrilegious, I know. Especially as lavender has long been one of my go-to perennials thanks to its ability to tick off all three boxes when it comes to a plant that’s fragrant, drought tolerant, and beloved by pollinators everywhere.

Still, as much as I admire it, I’ll admit it isn’t always the easiest plant to keep looking its best. Woody stems, patchy growth, and a relatively short flowering window? All of that means your borders can be left looking tired by midsummer – and, for a while, I thought replacing it with salvia was the answer. Now, though, there's a new lavender dupe contending to be named the very best... and I'm wholly and utterly obsessed.

Meet The Lavender Dupe With Triple The Bloom Time

Oh yes, I’ve become increasingly convinced that catmint (especially bold varieties like Cat's Pajamas Catmint) is the lavender dupe that deserves way more attention than it's getting. Largely because, in many ways, it delivers everything I love about lavender (soft purple-blue flowers, aromatic foliage, and masses of bees), all while flowering for significantly longer and staying lush without developing those bare, woody stems that older lavender plants are known for.

Winter Greenhouse Nepeta Cat’s Pajamas Proven Winners, Catmint - Pot Size: 4.5in - Flowers

At first glance, it’s easy to mistake catmint for lavender. Both produce spikes of violet-blue flowers above silvery-green foliage, and both thrive in sunny, well-drained positions.

This means that, from a distance, they create the same hazy, romantic effect that works beautifully in cottage gardens, Mediterranean-style plantings, and wildlife borders.

(Image credit: Photo by Sam Scholes / Getty Images)

The biggest difference becomes apparent as the season progresses. Because, while many lavender varieties bloom for around four to six weeks, catmint can flower repeatedly from late spring until early fall when it’s lightly sheared after its first flush. In practice, that often means enjoying blooms for three times as long as lavender, especially in regions with long growing seasons.

I also love that catmint naturally forms soft lavender-like mounds without becoming woody as it ages. Every gardener worth their salt will tell you that mature lavender can eventually develop thick stems if it isn’t pruned carefully every year, whereas catmint? Well, catmint simply gifts us fresh foliage and another wave of flowers.

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CATMINT

EKT Nursery Purrsian Blue Catmint

Catmint blooms forever, looks beautiful, and doesn't go woody!

SALVIA

WAROON Purple Salvia Plant

Another fragrant perennial, salvia is an absolute pollinator magnet.

ROSEMARY

TANKDA Rosemary Live Plant

A classic upright rosemary boasts the scent and color of your favorite lavender.

It may be a lavender dupe, but wildlife doesn't care one jot; bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects flock to the nectar-rich blooms of catmint throughout the growing season, and it provides an extended food source when many other early summer perennials have already faded.

It's also very forgiving. In fact, so long as it gets full sun and well-drained soil, it’s remarkably drought tolerant once it settles in, and rarely needs supplemental watering except during prolonged dry spells. Maintenance, too, is refreshingly simple; after the first flush of flowers begins to fade, just cut the entire plant back by around one-third and wait for another generous display of blooms.

I want it on record that I don’t think catmint replaces lavender entirely. Lavender’s unmistakable fragrance and evergreen structure still make it an invaluable garden plant, no matter what a clever lavender dupe has to say about it. Still, if your priority is continuous color, minimal maintenance, and a plant that stays fresh throughout the season without becoming woody, catmint definitely has the edge. Give it a go, I say! I doubt you will find yourself disappointed...