Organic Gardening News

As a thrifty gardener, I’m always looking for free alternatives to more expensive tools and gadgets. One of my favorite low-cost swaps is a plastic storage tote. You probably have a few extras lying around your basement or garage. And even if you’ve lost the lids or the totes have cracks in them, you can still use them as alternatives for several gardening products that can be quite costly.

I always save old totes that I'm no longer using to store clothes, extra bedding, or holiday decorations inside anymore. There are few ways to recycle these items in the garden that require minimal modifications. They’re low-cost, easily available, and you can put them to use in your garden in just a few minutes.

In this latest installment of our Dirt Cheap Gardening series, I’ll show you my favorite ways to give a plastic storage tote a second life in your garden and save money in the process.

More Dirt Cheap Gardening Tips

• 4 Clever Ways to Recycle To-Go Boxes in Your Garden
• Why Smart Gardeners Are Saving Cardboard Boxes
• 4 Reasons Why Always Save Old Toilet Paper Rolls

1. Mini Greenhouse

(Image credit: Jonas Rönnbro / Getty Images)

This is my favorite way to use a plastic storage tote in the garden. It requires no modifications to the tote at all and costs nothing! The only caveat is that you need a clear plastic storage bin, like this one from Walmart. Obviously, a colored tote will not be able to let light through to reach your plants.

To turn a plastic tote into a mini greenhouse, all you have to do is flip the tote upside down and vent it. Vent your tote by placing a brick or rock under one side of it to allow airflow and let heat escape. Close it up at night to protect tender plants from freezing temperatures and reopen again in the morning. You can either use the lid as a base to hold your seedlings or small, tender plants or if you’ve lost track of the lid, you can simply place the tote directly on the ground.

A lid can come in handy when using your mini greenhouse for seed starting. It can act as a sort of water catch tray that waters your delicate seedlings from the bottom as an alternative to overhead watering. Just pour water into the lid and let the plants soak it up through the drainage holes in the bottom of their containers.

Make sure to vent your plastic storage tote greenhouse, so you don’t accidentally fry your plants inside. I had this happen one morning when I slept in late and forgot to crack open the lid.

By 10am, the sun was blazing down on my greenhouse and my plants were literally smoking when I opened the tote. Luckily, my plants recouped quickly and that was the best year I’ve ever had in my vegetable garden – I think partially thanks to the early start I was able to get with my plastic storage bin greenhouse.

Once your seedlings are big enough to plant outside in the spring, the tote makes it easy to carry them out to the garden.

2. Seed Starting Tray

(Image credit: Xiuxia Huang / Getty Images)

If you have some smaller plastic storage bins like these ones from Target lying around, they make wonderful seed starting trays. This DIY seed starting tray idea takes a little more work than the greenhouse idea, but it only takes a minute to do.

Use a drill or a hot metal skewer to make several drainage holes in the bottom of your tote. How many holes you need to make depends on the size of your tote, but aim for at least a handful per square foot of area. Be careful when making the holes not to poke yourself as the tool goes through the plastic. Trying to make a hole with just a knife or scissors is not a good idea because it’s easier to hurt yourself that way and you’re more likely to crack the brittle plastic bottom of the tote.

Once you’ve made your holes, it’s time to fill your new seed starting tray with a good seed starting mix – I always have good results with this mix from Miracle-Gro. Then plant your seeds, water, and watch them grow. If you have a lid, that’s definitely a bonus for this project. Place the lid under the tote to catch any water that leaks out when watering your seedlings. Or you can try bottom watering using the lid.

If you have another plastic tote of the same or larger size as the one you turned into a seed starting tray, you can place that over the top to create a mini greenhouse to help seedlings stay warm on a drafty windowsill or outside in the late winter to early spring months.

3. Mini Raised Bed

(Image credit: Xiuxia Huang / Getty Images)

If you can plant seeds in a small plastic tote, then you can certainly grow bigger plants in a large plastic tote like this one from Home Depot. Use a drill to make holes in the bottom of your tote to turn it into a small DIY raised bed that can fit on almost any porch, patio, balcony, or backyard.

For this project, you don’t need a clear tote – any color will do – and you don’t need a lid either. Simply make your drainage holes, fill the tote with your preferred raised bed potting mix. I like to use a mix of potting soil and organic compost, which you can get at the Home Depot. Then all you have to do is plant!

Plastic totes are great for growing a variety of vegetables. Potatoes do very well in these containers! Just make sure to use a large enough tote to allow for good root growth. Your tote should be at least 15 inches (28 cm) or so to let plants sink their roots deep into the soil.

Plastic totes aren’t as durable as metal or wooden raised beds, so they will likely only last a few years outside in the sun. But they’re a great alternative for gardeners who are short on cash and space.

Terracotta pots may look beautiful but many popular plants struggle to grow in the conditions they create, and would be far happier in a cheap plastic planter. Traditional unglazed terracotta pots are made from porous clay, which constantly wicks moisture from the soil in dry weather. This 360° drainage is a distinct advantage for some plants that love dry conditions, but it can sound a death knell for others.

So, if you’re a fan of container gardening and growing plants in terracotta pots, it’s best you check. Some of the best perennial plants for patio pots loathe growing within clay walls, however much you tend to them, so it’s highly likely one’s struggling in your yard right now. There are plenty of plants that flourish in terracotta pots, though, so an afternoon spent pot-swapping could transform how your garden fares.

I’ve compiled a list of the top plants you should never, ever plant in a terracotta pot. Rehome these much-loved garden plants into glazed ceramic, fiberstone, resin or plastic planters instead, and they’ll not only thrive in the more consistent moisture that's locked into soil for lush foliage and longer-lasting flowers, but you’ll cut your container watering time to enjoy a more low-maintenance yard to boot.

1. Hydrangea

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Hydrangeas are thirsty plants with a high water requirement, so should never be planted in a terracotta container. Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf or mophead hydrangea) with its large leaves that create a huge surface area for water to evaporate from is the most moisture-hungry of the lot, so this will really fail to flourish in a terracotta pot. And if a hydrangea’s soil keeps drying out while it’s forming its flowerbuds, it may not bloom at all.

Hydrangeas also have surprisingly shallow root systems – which is why such a big shrub can be successfully grown in the confines of a container in the first place. Because terracotta retains heat from the sun, roots can easily become scorched in peak summer heat, adding to the likelihood of crispy leaves, browning blooms and dramatic – and perhaps fatal – flopping.

2. Hostas

(Image credit: Ekaterina Goncharova / Getty Images)

Another favourite for patio pots that loves consistently damp soil and rapidly dries out because of the large surface area of leaves, hostas shouldn’t be grown in terracotta planters. If you are, now you know why the leaves always have crispy brown margins, despite your regular watering routine.

3. Soft-Leaved Ferns

(Image credit: Tatiana Terekhina / Getty Images)

Many ferns have evolved to grow on moist rainforest floors or shady streambanks, so naturally appreciate damp soil. As a rule of thumb, if a fern has soft, thin or lacy leaves, it shouldn’t be grown in an unglazed terracotta pot – which makes clay containers an absolute no-no for maidenhair, ostrich and Boston ferns.

Ferns with thick, glossy leaves are far better able to tolerate drier conditions – and some actively appreciate life in a terracotta pot. Bird’s nest fern evolved to live high in the tree canopy so loves the airflow of a breathable terracotta pot, while Hart’s tongue fern needs its sharp drainage because it naturally grows in rocky crevices. So if you have a fern growing in a terracotta pot, take a closer look at its leaves and origin story.

4. Azaleas

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Another reason why some plants fail to flourish in a terracotta pot is because the natural clay creates slightly alkaline conditions. Over time, that can affect the pH levels of soil, which can be a problem for acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. It’ll become a problem for you too, because flowers can be less vibrant if the soil acidity isn’t right.

Clay's porosity can also cause issues for this plant’s shallow root system that quickly dries out in a terracotta pot, causing azalea flowers to fade quickly, shortening the bloom time of this beautiful shrub.

5. Blueberries

(Image credit: Esin Deniz / Getty Images)

Try and grow a blueberry bush in a terracotta pot and you’ll quickly run into trouble. Not only do these acid-loving plants abhor the alkaline conditions that a clay container nurtures, but they adore consistent moisture. And as if that wasn’t enough of an issue… because you’ll find yourself watering your blueberry plant more because of the quick-drying soil, the typically alkaline tap water will raise that soil pH some more. At the very least, the plant will produce little fruit, but death is also a very possible scenario.

6. Parsley

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Parsley is a Mediterranean herb so loves life in a terracotta pot, right? Wrong! This flavorful herb may hail from warm climes but it needs consistently damp soil and prefers to have cool roots, quite the opposite of what a clay container provides. And a parsley plant that regularly dries out because soil moisture is being wicked away by its pot’s terracotta walls will have tougher, yellowing stems with a distinctly bitter-tasting edge. Yes, that’s the reason why! This is one of the commonest problems with terracotta pots, as most herbs do well in a clay container – but parsley isn't one of them.

7. Cardinal Flowers

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A big patio planter of cardinal flowers that let's you watch pollinators while you sip a well-earned glass of something cold is a joy – but not if that pot is made of clay. Lobelia cardinalis naturally lives in bogs and on streambeds, so it requires consistently damp soil to thrive. A terracotta pot provides the opposite, and in this harsh environment those dramatic flower spikes will be stunted and buds may turn brown and drop before opening.

8. Canna Lilies

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

In most zones, it’s usual to grow these tender tropical beauties in pots so they’re easily moved into a garage or greenhouse for the winter. And few plants can bring such dramatic blooms and foliage in a container as a canna lily. However, that pot should never be a terracotta one.

Canna lilies use huge quantities of water in peak summer, evaporating moisture from their enormous leaves to keep cool and avoid scorching as well as harnessing heaps of H20 to facilitate their incredibly fast growth. These bold plants also rely on water pressure to keep their stems upright. In an unglazed terracotta pot where moisture is continually lost through the walls, these vital tasks are simply not possible. So if you’ve been wondering why your canna lilies keep wilting, now you know.

What Pots to Use Instead of Terracotta

If you love the look of terracotta – and who doesn’t adore this timeless classic – you have plenty of options to retain the style but keep your plants far healthier and happier. Simply slotting a plastic planter inside the terracotta pot works well, but do choose those meant for professional use such as these nursery pots from Amazon, both for their durability and extra drainage holes, .

There are lots of terracotta-look materials used to make planters, too. These all mimic the appearance of terracotta but are far less porous so lock moisture into the soil.

Resin

Grosfillex Expert 20" Terrain Resin Planter

Resin is typically formed from a synthetic polymer such as polyethylene which comes in powdered form, so it’s easy to mix in color pigments to do a pretty good job of mimicking the real thing. Look for a resin planter which has a UV stabilizer in the mix so its lovely clay tones don’t fade in the sun. Resin walls are fully non-porous so these containers are a good choice for plants that like permanently damp soil, but do drill a few extra drainage holes in the base.

Plastic

Bloem Terra Plastic 16" Planter

If you’re on a budget, plastic planters in a terracotta tone are a great option. A rolled lip adds considerable strength to the design and, along with the tapering sides, helps it to pass for the real thing. Take a scouring pad to the plastic to lightly scuff a few areas that would naturally show signs of wear for a more aged terracotta look. Plastic isn’t at all breathable so while plants that like consistent moisture will thrive, rotting roots is a problem for those that need good drainage.

Magnesium Oxide

Greens Word 16.5" Magnesium Oxide Urn Planter

Magnesium oxide is a specialized type of concrete composite that’s easily mixed with other components to mimic natural materials such as terracotta and is very durable. This material is slightly porous so it gives roots a healthier environment than plastic while still locking in lots of moisture. For plants like hydrangeas which need good drainage alongside plenty of water, and acid-loving plants that dislike the alkalinity of terracotta, magnesium oxide are the best option. You’ll also find these listed as MgO and MGO cement or concrete planters.

What's Your USDA Zone?I'm using terracotta pots in a hot, dry USDA zone.

If you garden in southern and western zones 8-11, it’s not just terracotta’s rapid evaporation that can be an issue, but that clay retains heat. In peak summer, this can lead to soil heating that scorches roots.

I'm using terracotta pots in a cold, wet USDA zone.

If you live in northern zones 3-6, it’s good to know that porous terracotta absorbs water, which expands when frozen and can cause pots to crack or shatter. Ensure you use high-fired, frost-proof terracotta.

If you've always wondered why a patio plant isn't flourishing, or what's best to plant in a terracotta pot, now you know. Repot plants into a more suitable home and you can look forward to abundant flowers and lush foliage for years to come.

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

I like to think of pruning plants as giving them cute haircuts, but this garden task is so much more than a cosmetic adjustment. Pruning is an essential step to keep landscape plants healthy and vital – and timing is a key element. Trimming plants and trees at the wrong time can be far worse than not pruning at all.

The complication here is that there is no one good time for pruning all the plants in your garden. Different plants have different schedules. There are some plants to prune in October, but there are other plants that should definitely not be pruned this month. Knowing which ones are which will help you get your October fall pruning chores accomplished properly.

So what plants should you never prune in October? Here are the landscape favorites to leave alone this month or else you risk ruing your winter display and next year's blooms.

Never Prune These Plants in October

Any time a shrub has a broken or diseased branch it's good to cut back that dead or damaged wood. But otherwise, keep your hand pruners far from these landscape plants in October. This is not a good time for regular pruning of these species.

1. Lilac

(Image credit: Shedu / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Syringa vulgaris

Hardiness

Zones 3-7

With their gorgeous, heavily fragranced blossoms, lilacs seem like they might need trips to the plant spa every few weeks. But no, they are among the most carefree of flowering shrubs. Planted in a sunny area in well-draining soil, they will delight you with lavender, pink, or white blossoms from spring to summer.

Do not even consider giving these garden favorites a haircut in October. Lilacs set buds for the next year’s flowers right after they finish blooming in early summer. The moment to do structural pruning of lilacs is immediately after they finish flowering, usually around June. Every snip in October removes one or more of these new buds, meaning fewer flowers in spring.

But that’s not all. Keep in mind that pruning encourages new growth. New growth that appears in late fall will still be tender when the first freeze arrives, leading to winter dieback. Fresh pruning cuts on wet autumn days lead to risks of fungal infections and rot.

2. Forsythia

(Image credit: Hrabar / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Forsythia spp.

Hardiness

Zones 5-8

Yes, red-breasted robins are harbingers of spring, but they are not alone in this role. One sure sign that spring has sprung is the appearance of brilliant yellow forsythia blossoms, which are often the first flowers to appear. Like most spring flowers, forsythia shrubs bloom on old wood, forming buds for the following year’s blossoms just after the current flowers have faded.

While forsythias profit from annual pruning, this should happen immediately after flowering. Pruning forsythias then makes the shrubs healthier and more vigorous. However, pruning these garden workhorses in October (or any time from midsummer to winter) will drastically reduce their blossoms the next spring. In addition, tender new growth may freeze, stressing the shrub.

3. Pink Muhly Grass

(Image credit: inho Lee / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Muhlenbergia capillaris

Hardiness

Zones 6-10

There are many appealing ornamental grasses out there in commerce and pink muhly grass is among the most popular for landscaping. It catches the eye with its unreal autumn display. Come September, this graceful grass lights up the landscape with massive, cloud-like airy pink seed heads.

Stunning and low-maintenance, pink muhly grass prefers a site with partial sun and dry, well-drained soil. It resists pests, deer, and drought. Pruning in October is really out of the question, since this is when its standing foliage and plumes provide the most spectacular show.

The texture, color, and movement last right into the cold months, offering food and cover for wildlife. The grass’s top growth also protects the crown of the grass from cold temperatures and blocks moisture from pooling.

4. Azalea

(Image credit: krblokhin / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Rhododendron spp.

Hardiness

Zones 3-9 (depending on variety)

Azaleas are immensely popular flowering shrubs that produce brilliant clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers in spring. The lush blossom display on these mounding shrubs seems to float into the garden like a cloud. While some azaleas don’t need any pruning, other azalea varieties require trimming to improve airflow.

If your azaleas need pruning, hop to it right after the spring blooms fade. By October, the buds have set and pruning will simply be cutting off next spring’s blossoms before they have a chance to appear. Fall pruning also boosts tender new growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the first frost.

5. 'Emerald Green' Arborvitae

(Image credit: Mykola Sosiukin / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Thuja occidentalis 'Smaragd'

Hardiness

Zones 3-7

When homeowners think about putting in a privacy hedge, arborvitae is one landscape shrub that comes to mind. 'Emerald Green' arborvitae is one of the most popular. It's a classic evergreen with a naturally narrow shape. That means it works well for lining a property edge or creating a backdrop for flowering shrubs. The attractive green foliage stays dense and attractive all year round.

This easy care shrub doesn’t need much pruning. But if you want to tidy up your arborvitae, do so in late spring or early summer. This is the time to touch up the shape and keep it looking tidy.

Pruning in fall leaves wounds making the plant susceptible to fungal diseases during the wet season. It also stimulates growth at the wrong time. The soft new growth does not have time to toughen up before winter freezes. Not only can these stems be damaged by ice, causing bare spots, but they can snap easily under heavy winter snow or ice loads.

Pruning Essentials

For the plants that do need pruning in fall, make sure you're well-equipped with the essentials before making the cut.

Workpro 7.2v Cordless Grass Shear & Shrubbery Trimmer

This handy handheld hedge trimmer makes cleaning up and shaping small shrubs so easy.

Felco F2 Pruning Shears

These cult-favorite pruners are definitely a splurge, but the holiday season is just around the corner. Add them to your wishlist now!

Fiskars 28” Garden Bypass Loppers

Content Editor Laura loves these affordable loppers for pruning larger shrubs and smaller tree branches.

The English country garden aesthetic is having a major moment right now, and if you’ve seen photos of George and Amal Clooney’s Mill House garden in Oxfordshire, then you’ll see why. Sandstone stairs softened by euphorbia delicately spilling over railings, climbing vines covering old stone walls, and pastel-colored flowers tucked into borders, giving the impression that they’ve been there for hundreds of years.

Photographed for Vogue by Annie Leibovitz, the couple's garden strikes a perfect balance between thoughtful design and natural beauty. It’s the kind of space that invites wandering and daydreaming. But much like a classic Parisian outfit that appears thrown together, it is actually the result of careful planning and a discerning eye.

While it may seem out of your price range and not achievable unless you have a sprawling estate like the Clooneys, there are ways you can get the English cottage look in your own garden. If George and Amal's greenhouse has already inspired you, the garden itself is obviously the next step.

The Difference Between Country Charm and Just Overgrown

(Image credit: Getty Images)

So, what is the difference between overgrown and neglected and a charming country aesthetic? This question is at the heart of the look, and the answer is actually quite simple. Marta Pawlik, Co-Founder and Director of luxury property management company Laik, frames it beautifully: "Style a country garden in exactly the same way you'd style a living room, except stop a step sooner."

She applies a principle of contrast, telling me, "The key to achieving country charm instead of a run-down look is purpose. We always compare a relaxed element against a neater element. A rumpled throw on a well-made bed.”

A post shared by Amal Alamuddin Clooney (@amalclooneyofficial1)

A photo posted by

She continues, “In garden terms, this is what Landscape Architecture professor Joan Nassauer called ‘cues to care’ – intentional signs of maintenance that give the eye permission to relax everything else. In the Clooneys' garden, it's the sandstone walls doing that work. The structure is impeccable; the planting gets to be loose and romantic within it.”

Crystal Olenbush, luxury realtor and interior design expert at AustinRealEstate.com, makes the same point from a design perspective, saying, "In an English country garden, despite some relaxed-looking planting, people can clearly understand its layout and the way to walk through the garden, find a place to sit down, or enjoy the views framed by the planting from the windows of your house."

Start With Structure, Then Back Off

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The most common mistake when attempting this style is starting with the plants rather than the bones. Pawlik's advice is to begin where an interior designer would: "Start with some shrubs for structure – a couple of well-trimmed yews or hollies, the blight-proof alternatives to box hedging. The structure is like starting with the rug and the sofa in the living room. It gives some shape to what's going to be your focus. Then back off and let things self-seed, foxgloves spill over paths, everything."

Her other tip, which is one that changes how most people approach garden planning entirely, is this: "Plan your garden by standing in your kitchen window, not outside. You'll be looking at your garden through a window far more often than you'll be out in it."

Olenbush adds that the planting itself should soften the architecture without trying to hide it, saying, "Let the climbers cover the wall, perennials flow slightly over the border, and grasses grow through the stone steps, but leave the bones of the garden visible. If there are no visible paths, seats, or facades of the house, the garden has left the country style."

Copy Amal and George’s Rustic Pot Look

Yatddes Aged Terracotta Planter Pot With Drainage Hole

Bungalow Rose Hooge Textured Stoneware Jug Planter

My Texas House Wave Terracotta-Style Ceramic Planter

Adapting the Look for Warmer Climates

(Image credit: Satura86 / Getty Images)

For US gardeners in warmer or drier zones, Olenbush recommends recreating the visual language rather than copying specific plants. "Look for local species that offer similar soft colors, flowering periods, and forms. Drought-tolerant flowering perennials, native shrubs, and suitable vines can create the same layered effect."

For climbers specifically, she suggests star jasmine, coral honeysuckle, or crossvine as alternatives to the clematis and roses that are all over English gardens. For the looser middle layer, lavender, salvia, catmint, and rosemary all give off the soft, billowing quality of a classic English border but don’t require the dampness that is such a classic of an Oxfordshire summer.

Shop Romantic Vines

Florida Foliage Star Jasmine - 3 Live Plants

American Beauties Native Plants Virginia Creeper

Sweet Autumn Clematis

At the end of the day, the Clooneys’ garden is the exact argument you need for restraint. Strong bones with a lot of repetition and the confidence to let some things be just a little undone and not too perfect. This combination can work in a 17th-century Oxfordshire mansion, but it works just as well in a backyard on the other side of the Atlantic.

Artificial intelligence is speeding up the design process, helping clients visualize spaces and giving professionals more ways to experiment. But it needs to work in tandem with human judgment, experience and an understanding of what can actually be built.

Julia Yudova, general manager at Cosentino Vancouver, says AI is compressing the design process and making experimentation easier.

“AI is making design more iterative and much faster. At Cosentino, what might have taken four or five iterations can sometimes happen in one. The opportunity is to explore more possibilities, the challenge is making sure efficiency never comes at the expense of originality. AI should expand creativity, not standardize it,” she says.

That distinction — between generating possibilities and making good design decisions — runs through the industry’s adoption of AI.

Yudova says designers are increasingly treating the technology as another tool in the creative process rather than something that replaces them.

“We’re seeing AI become more of a creative partner than a replacement. It can challenge an initial idea with new directions and combinations, but designers still bring the judgment, understanding the client, the space, the material and what will actually work.”

Reisa Pollard of Beyond Beige sees the same shift. She says AI is already accelerating concept development, letting designers explore ideas and present several directions before committing substantial time to detailed drawings or sourcing.

It is also changing the client relationship. People who have difficulty visualizing a finished room can respond to images much earlier, she says.

Pollard says the apparent realism of AI-generated work can be misleading.

“AI can create something that looks convincing without necessarily being accurate, buildable or appropriate for the client. A beautiful image is not the same thing as a well-designed space. It may ignore building codes, budgets, material limitations and the realities of construction,” she says.

AI learns from what already exists, so if it’s used without a strong point of view and direction, it produces attractive but generic rooms. The designer’s taste, experience and ability to understand the person behind the project become even more important, says Pollard.

Prefabrication versus AI

“They’re different, but complementary. Prefabrication brings precision to how something is made. AI brings intelligence and speed to how we design and decide what to make. The real opportunity is connecting those two worlds,” says Yudova.

Neither approach has to result in cookie-cutter design, says Pollard. Prefabricated components can still be used in highly customized architecture, while AI can support a deeply personal interior.

“The determining factor is the creativity and judgment of the person using the tool,” she says.

Less admin, more designing

The technology is also moving beyond image generation.

At Cosentino, Yudova says AI is being used to accelerate materials research and reduce repetitive work in sales and customer service.

“AI isn’t just changing what we design, it’s changing how we work. The biggest impact may be freeing people to spend more time on creativity, research and higher-value decisions,” she says.

Beyond Beige is finding similar uses behind the scenes. AI can help organize information, summarize discussions, develop preliminary written content, improve internal systems and provide a starting point for research or brainstorming, says Pollard.

But she stresses that the technology remains an assistant, not an authority. Its output needs review and fact-checking, and firms also need to consider privacy before entering client or project information into an AI platform.

The speed of technology is creating a new challenge, says Pollard. And it’s to do with expectations. Clients may come to expect unlimited options and instant revisions simply because AI can generate them.

“The challenge for designers will be to use that speed to create clarity rather than simply creating more noise.”

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Dear Tony:

We have a service agreement that we are attempting to terminate and have discovered an exclusive clause that requires 90 days notice before anniversary of the contract. Clearly no one on our strata council or manager read the contract in detail and now we are faced with another four years of a contract that renews automatically every five years unless we terminate within the terms.

Strata corporations are extremely vulnerable to these practices because we are volunteers, our managers generally do not have the experience to review these contracts and in our situation, no one wanted to approve the funds for our lawyer to review the contract prior to signing. Now we’re stuck with a company that is providing lousy service and insists on the balance of the contract running out. That is still four years and by then a new council will be in place, maybe new management and likely the next renewal will occur.

How do we get out of this?

— Gabe M., Vancouver

Dear Gabe:

Strata corporations enter a variety of complicated service agreements with many conditions that favour the service providers and not the clients. Automatic renewals/evergreen contracts, guaranteed price adjustments, restrictive termination clauses and detailed service conditions that may include or exclude many costs.

Elevators, fire safety inspections, heating ventilation mechanical, waste management, insurance, management agreements, warranties, communications and security systems, are all common examples. The success of a healthy business relationship is a clear understanding of the services, costs, liabilities and terms and conditions of renewals and cancellations before you engage.

At this time your strata corporation needs legal advice on the contract. By the way, this will likely cost more than a sound contract review before you signed.

You may have an argument for breach of contract which could be a negotiating factor to terminate. However, this requires supervision and documentation of failure to meet the contract conditions.

Has there been a breach of the contract? If there is a breach, is there a breach provision where you must notify the service provider and entitle them to remedy the breach?

Contract administration is time consuming but it is made easier with organization and advance review by an experienced professional. As the consumer you are entitled to full disclosure and clarity.

As part of the contract proposal request a summary page that lists all costs, escalating or inflation costs, conditions for renewal or termination, any exemptions or exclusions, and dispute conditions. It provides a quick reference for council making decisions and giving directions to their managers. It is also essential that council members have access to all the service agreements and contracts. Organize your documents.

If someone has an opportunity to look at renewal/cancellation dates, terms and conditions and add this to your council meetings and minutes, everyone is well informed. It’s never too late to organize your strata corporation’s records.

Tony Gioventu is executive director of the Condominium Home Owners Association. Email tony@choa.bc.ca.

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• Condo Smarts: What strata tenants need to know about their rights and responsibilities
• Condo Smarts: Strata corp. should commission depreciation report ASAP

Spring-flowering bulbs to plant in October are your secret weapon if you want a gorgeous garden but don’t fancy spending every spare moment fussing over it. Run-of-the-mill tulips and daffodils are spring favorites for good reason, but there are more exciting varieties with standout flowers, intriguing shapes and plenty of personality. Tuck them into borders, containers or lawns in fall, then let nature do much of the heavy lifting.

Ever-more fabulous new varieties of spring-flowering bulbs are being bred and, though they boast showier flowers, there’s nothing difficult about growing them. The trick is to choose the right bulb for the right spot and give them conditions they naturally enjoy – which is usually as simple as good drainage and plentiful sunshine – and they'll quietly return each spring with very little intervention.

Fall is the perfect time to get planting bulbs, giving them time to settle in and establish roots before winter arrives. So, ditch the boring varieties and decide which of these far less basic beauties deserve a place in your garden. From charming gems to head-turning statement flowers, I’ve rounded up unusual spring-flowering bulbs that brim with character but couldn’t be easier to grow. All you need do is equip yourself with a bulb planter such as the Berry&Bird Planter, available via Amazon – or a long-handled planter such as the Colwelt Planter Tool, stocked by Walmart, if you're planting lots – then look forward to an enviable but effortless spring show.

1. Personality-Packed Parrot Tulips

10 Amazing Parrot Bulbs

Living up to its name, these riotous petals will stop neighbors in their tracks.

10 Black Parrot Bulbs

These velvety, deeply fringed flowers bring such a sophisticated vibe.

10 Flamingo Queen Bulbs

If you love to share your outdoor space on socials, these will steal the limelight.

While many varieties provide knockout color, parrots are among the best tulips to turn up the volume of a spring garden. The huge flowers offer a flamboyant upgrade with dramatically cut, twisted and feathered petals, often splashed with contrasting streaks or flashes of color.

Flowering later than many tulips around May, parrot tulips are particularly useful for extending the spring show and bridging the gap between the first bulbs and early summer blooms. Plant in generous groups so their fabulous flowers pack a color punch, and don't be shy with numbers. Don’t be afraid to lean into your favorite look, either, as parrot tulips are all about personality. Pop them close to paths, patios and seating areas where you and your garden guests can enjoy an up-close look at these wonderfully weird petals.

Parrot tulips can be less reliable repeat performers than some others, particularly in climates with hot, humid summers, so it's vital to grow parrot tulips in full sun and sharply drained soil, preferably sheltered from strong winds.

Zones 3-8 / Full sun / Flowers mid to late spring / Grows 18-24" high and 4-6" wide.

2. Opulent Double Anemones

10 Fullstar Red/White Bulbs

'Fullstar Red/White' shines in a container with vivid tones and contrasting centers.

10 Fullstar Blue Bulbs

For pure impact, 'Fullstar Blue' is hard to beat with intensely rich blue petals.

20 Double Mixed Bulbs

Can't decide? Plant a mixed collection for a colorful burst of spring petals.

Layer upon layer of petals gives double-flowered anemones an irresistibly full, almost peony-like appearance, so they make a big impact in a small space. Newer Fullstar anemones take the extravagance a step further, producing densely packed, ruffled blooms that can reach around 4 inches across. And though the blooms are bigger, the plants themselves stay compact so are easy to tuck into containers, rock gardens or border fronts.

Often sold as bulbs, anemones actually grow from small, woody corms but are planted in just the same way. For a fall planting, simply rehydrate the dry corms first by soaking in tepid water for up to 24 hours. These Mediterranean-origin anemones are particularly sensitive to wet conditions while dormant so choose a sunny, sheltered spot with fertile, very well-drained soil.

Zones 7-10 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers spring to early summer / Grows 12-18” high and 6-9” wide.

3. Aliens-Have-Landed Alliums

25 Allium Hair Bulbs

A real oddball and a wonderfully wild and weird tangle of wiry green tendrils.

3 Allium Schubertii Bulbs

These starburst blooms can reach a foot across and dry well for border structure.

25 Allium Art Bulbs

Intricate clusters and unusual fused stems bring a contemporary vibe.

If your summer border is hot, dry and sunny, ornamental alliums are among the best bulbs to plant in fall. We're all familiar with the classic purple pom-pom varieties that bob above the border but look a little closer and you'll find alliums with much stranger, more sculptural personalities. Some produce starbursts, spidery clusters or wonderfully wiry flowerheads, turning neighbors’ heads while still attracting pollinators. When flowers fade, the dried seedheads stick around, adding structure long after the main display is over.

It’s super-simple to grow alliums that return year after year, as long as you give them the right conditions. Plant the bulbs in early to mid-fall in free-draining soil and water to settle them in, but then ignore them unless the weather is unusually dry – because damp ground is the main reason these bulbs fail. And don't panic if the strap-like leaves start to yellow just as the flower stalks appear – allium leaves often die back around flowering time, which is why many gardeners plant them among grasses and leafy perennials that hide the fading foliage.

Zones 4-9 / Full sun / Flowers late spring to early summer / Grows 1-5' high and 4-12" wide.

4. Perfectly Peachy Daffodils

10 Apple Pie Bulbs

White petals set off the apricot crown a treat, making this variety a real beauty.

25 Mini Prosecco Bulbs

A neat little number for a border front or patio pot where full-size daffs don't fit.

10 Apricot Whirl Bulbs

A real showstopper with frilled cups on flowers that can reach 4 inches across.

Appealing peachy daffs are comfortingly familiar without the brashness of their bright yellow cohorts. Their cups glow in shades of peach, apricot, salmon or coral, while the outer petals stay cream, white or greenish white. The effect is prettier and far more sophisticated, making these the best daffodils to add to a modern planting palette. Plant them in repeating groups through a border for a relaxed, natural look or pair with blush-toned tulips, flowering fruit trees and other pastel spring blooms.

Get daffodil bulbs into the ground before it freezes and then leave them alone – good news if you’re seeking genuine faff-free color as daffodils reliably return year and year, often forming larger clumps over time.

Zones 4-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers late winter to late spring / Grows 8-30" high and 6-12" wide.

5. Smoky-Hued Dutch Iris

25 Autumn Princess Bulbs

This variety has a super-smoky combination of bronze and ochre tones.

25 Red Ember Bulbs

The rich colors of 'Red Ember' practically glow when lit by the evening sun.

25 Lion King Bulbs

You can see how this blazing golden-bronze beauty earned its name!

With tall, elegant flowers in electric blue, yellow and white, classic Dutch iris (Iris × hollandica) has long earned its place in our yards. But if your taste runs a little moodier, check out the less obvious cultivars in plum, brown, bronze, copper and wine shades. Their smoky coloring brings a sophisticated twist to the familiar iris silhouette and works particularly well in a more restrained, contemporary planting scheme.

Each bulb sends up a strong stem with an architectural bloom, and that upright, narrow habit makes Dutch iris especially useful for an already-full border that needs vertical punctuation. They are also excellent cut flowers, if you like bringing armfuls of the garden indoors.

Plant bulbs in early fall and water to settle the soil, then keep moisture fairly even while they're establishing. This iris typically benefits from a period of cool winter temperatures so in zones 8–9, check the supplier's instructions for the cultivar and local growing conditions; some bulbs can be planted directly in fall, while others may perform more reliably with appropriate chilling.

Zones 6-9 / Full sun / Flowers late spring to early summer / Grows 2-3' high and 6-12" wide.

6. Ombre Grape Hyacinths

10 Ocean Magic Bulbs

A fresh spring palette and the safest bet in a bed with some shade.

25 Grape Ice Bulbs

Flowers fade from a rich purple base through pale lilac to white tips.

25 Delft Blue Mix Bulbs

A collection of mixed varieties highlights the varied tones a treat.

Dinky grape hyacinths (Muscari) can be tucked around the bases of shrubs, in lawns or beneath taller daffodils and tulips, and squeeze into even the most crowded border. They’re one of the easiest spring flowering bulbs to grow, and newer multi-toned varieties bring lots more pizzazz than the usual solid-blue forms. Their appeal doesn’t stop at aesthetics either, as many of these rodent- and deer-resistant bulbs are sweetly fragrant and naturalize, gradually creating bigger clumps over time. They can occasionally be a little too enthusiastic, so plant in a spot where you won't mind some floral unruliness.

Plant grape hyacinths in fall before the ground freezes in well-drained soil, and forget scattering a handful here and there because this little stunner looks best among plenty of its own company.

Zones 4-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers early to mid-spring / Grows 6-9" high and 2-6" wide.

7. Flamboyant Crown Imperial Fritillaries

3 Rubra Maxima Bulbs

'Rubra Maxima' boasts burnt orange to flame red tones on 3-feet-high stems.

1 Lutea Maxima Bulb

'Lutea Maxima' brings a bright burst of color and wonderfully glossy leaves.

1 Aurora Bulb

Classic 'Aurora' is a reliable return flowerer and is known to naturalize well.

Fritillaries are worth growing because they look like nothing else in the spring garden, and certainly aren’t shrinking violets! Crown imperial fritillary is the showstopper of all fritillaria with a whorl of pendant bells nodding beneath a tufted crown of leaves atop a sturdy stem. This architectural beauty looks almost too exotic to be hardy, but it returns year after year to wow neighbors and friends.

Despite the high-drama appearance, Fritillaria imperialis is surprisingly straightforward to grow. Just give bulbs well-drained soil as they’re prone to rotting in wet conditions. A clever tip for fall planting is to lay the bulbs on their sides to help prevent water from collecting in the little hollow on the top.

For maximum impact, use crown imperials as punctuation marks through a sunny spring border, giving them room to strut their stuff. A quirky bonus is their distinctive musky, slightly skunky scent, said to help keep rodents out of garden beds. It's not everyone's favorite fragrance, though, so best not to plant these showstoppers beside a seating area.

Zones 5-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers mid to late spring / Grows 3-4’ high and 12-18” wide.

8. Ravishing Warm-Zone Ranunculus

10 Reinette Orange Bulbs

Delivering a fiery shot of vibrant color, this will warm up a spring border a treat.

20 Champagne Mix Bulbs

Skip straight to stunning with this mixed variety pack in standout peachy shades.

10 Reinette Cream Bulbs

Achieve an elegant, sophisticated look with these pale petals and green center.

For maximum flower power, ranunculus is hard to beat – especially when you consider that such lavish blooms emerge from a surprisingly small corm. Add these little energy stores to your list of what to plant in October, though, and you'll be rewarded with a spectacular succession of rose- or peony-like blooms that look as though they belong to a far more demanding plant.

The Reinette ranunculus types take the showiness up another notch, producing huge, densely layered double blooms with distinctive green centers. They’re also stars of the cutting garden with long-lasting flowers that look just as fabulous in a vase as they do in the border.

Plant the corms in fall or early winter when temperatures have started to cool but the soil isn't cold and saturated. Soak dry corms in room-temperature water for a few hours first to rehydrate them, then plant in a sunny spot and keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged. Ranunculus dislike sitting in cold, soggy ground, so plant in containers if you have heavy soil.

Zones 8-10 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers late spring to summer / Grows 12-18" high and 4-6" wide.

9. Big-Bloomed Crocus

25 Joan of Arc Bulbs

This all-white crocus produces unusually large, snow-white flowers.

25 Pickwick Bulbs

The showiest choice with boldly striped petals and a flash of golden yellow.

25 Blue Marlin Bulbs

Lavender-blue watercolor hues brush the silvery white petals of 'Blue Marlin'.

Crocus earns its place in every garden because it asks so little of you. While the small-flowered types are charming, bolder big-bloomed crocuses make more of an early-season statement. Emerging in late winter when there aren’t many garden goings-on, they're guaranteed attention-grabbers but remain petite enough to be tucked beneath deciduous shrubs, through lawns or along a border front. Crocus naturalize, too, so groups can become more impressive over time.

Growing crocus is wonderfully straightforward. Plant the corms in fall in well-drained soil before it freezes and water to settle the soil. Then let nature do the rest, as hardy spring-flowering crocuses need a period of cold to flower well. Plant in generous drifts and you'll have one of spring's loveliest little curtain-raisers, as flowers often closes their petals when the clouds roll in for even more garden charm.

Zones 3-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers late winter to early spring / Grows 2-6" high and 3-6" wide

Top Tips for Successful Fall Bulb Planting

• Most spring-flowering bulbs prefer a sunny or lightly shaded position with good air circulation but do check conditions for individual varieties.
• Prioritize good drainage by mixing a handful of coarse sand, fine gravel or vermiculite such as Plantonix Vermiculite Bliss from Walmart and multi-purpose compost into the soil before planting. Soggy soil is the quickest way to lose bulbs and corms, so take time to improve soil drainage for long-term success.
• As a general rule, plant bulbs at 2-3 times their own height, measuring from the base of the bulb. Always follow the instructions for the specific variety, particularly with corms and smaller bulbs.
• Plant bulbs with the growing tip pointing upwards. If you're unsure which way is up, planting bulbs on their side will allow new growth to find its way to the surface.
• Water newly-planted bulbs thoroughly to settle the soil but then allow autumn and winter rainfall to provide moisture, watering only if needed.
• If you’re gardening in a warmer part of the US, check the chilling requirements as pre-chilled bulbs or refrigerated storage before planting may be recommended by the supplier.
• You can grow bulbs and corms not suited to your USDA zone in containers as long as you overwinter pots indoors, or you can lift and store just as you would a dahlia tuber.

(Image credit: Nicola Stockden/Future Publishing Ltd)

For the price of a nice home in West Vancouver, you could own an apartment on what is widely regarded as the largest private residential ship on the planet.

Twelve decks high and stretching 644 feet, The World Residences at Sea operates like a floating luxury apartment building, where the residents collectively vote on where the ocean-going vessel will travel throughout the year.

Some 300 residents own The World’s 165 homes, with more than half from the United States, and many from Europe, Australia, Japan and Canada. At any given time, between 150 to 200 residents and their guests are onboard. A handful live there all year, while most come and go depending on the itinerary. Community members include families with children, though the majority are retirees. The average ownership period tends to run seven to eight years.

Outside of dry dock for upkeep, The World has been continuously circumnavigating the globe since 2002. It kicked off 2026 in Tasmania, Australia and New Zealand, followed by a semi-circumnavigation of Antarctica, then the South Pacific and French Polynesia, before heading to the Pacific Northwest and onward to Asia.

Homes range from compact 330-square-foot studios to two- and three-bedroom apartments upwards of 3,000 square feet. Owners can renovate — flooring, bathrooms, fixtures — during scheduled maintenance windows that occur two or three times a year. Structural changes are permitted only when the ship is in dry dock, which happens every three years.

Residences are owned outright, priced from US$3.5 to $15 million, with annual maintenance fees around 10 per cent of the purchase price. Prospective buyers are typically hosted by a homeowner to determine whether the lifestyle suits them, and residents often sublet other residents’ suites to host friends and family.

That instinct to host runs through much of life on The World. San Francisco-based design firm Studio Ahead took on a brief for Nora Lacey, a biotech entrepreneur who ultimately found her land-based holiday retreat in Lake Tahoe less than inspiring. Lacey was drawn to The World’s combination of travel and a stable home base, embracing a much smaller footprint without sacrificing her love for hosting family.

“Even though she downsized, her priorities didn’t change,” says Studio Ahead principal Homan Rajai. “She still wanted to host her sister, her mom, her kids, her grandkids — while keeping her own space too.”

Lacey came to the project already familiar with the studio’s work, having admired the design firm’s rounded, sheepskin-upholstered furniture for years.

What began as a request to furnish a few rooms grew, within weeks of installation, into a full renovation of the roughly 1,400-square-foot residence. Getting there meant Rajai and project designer Seth Huxe spent nearly a year co-ordinating a build that stretched from Montreal to Boston to a fabrication house in Vienna to final installation in a Spanish shipyard, all timed to a dry-dock window that opens once every three years.

The studio’s approach was less “yacht interior” than a small, deeply considered home. The kitchen counter and cabinetry were hand-formed from raw, undyed fibreglass, a material borrowed from Italian boatbuilding tradition. Shades of sea-green continue in a Moroccan tile backsplash. Cabinet interiors, invisible once closed, were finished in walnut.

Rounded forms carry through every room, a softening effect that doubles as a safety measure for a moving vessel. The custom sheepskin beds anchor the primary and guest rooms. Vanities, millwork and coffee table all pick up the same rounded language.

Every element carries hidden engineering such as locking mechanisms rated for rough seas, IMO-certified paint and materials, and storage niches grouted invisibly into tiled walls.

“It’s really sweet to have these small, beautiful, cared-about homes that are bringing delight,” says Rajai.

For more information about units available for purchase on The World, visit its website .

Kevin Bacon might be better known for his acting than his gardening, but that might all change thanks to the Footloose star's latest Instagram photo.

When it comes to growing our own food, many of us tend to eschew the not-so-humble apple tree in favor of raised beds and a vegetable garden. Kevin, however, has an enviable orchard's worth of fruit at his disposal, and the actor shared a picture of himself balanced atop a teetering ladder as he harvested it.

And, while I was initially distracted by the sheer abundance of apples hanging from those branches (it's enough to make you rush off and buy a Honeycrisp Apple Tree from Nature Hills of your very own, right?), it was the message accompanying the photo that really caught my attention.

Why Kevin Bacon's Apple Tree Is So Inspiring

“I love September,” read the caption beneath Kevin Bacon's carousel of photos, which also included shots of the apples in his wheelbarrow, and then bagged and ready to go in the trunk of his car.

"Always good to remember no matter where you live , you probably have neighbors who are hungry."

His advice was simple: support your local food banks.

A post shared by Kevin Bacon (@kevinbacon)

A photo posted by

"Oh my goodness just when I think I couldn’t love you anymore!! what an amazing human being! The world needs more of that," read one comment beneath the picture.

"You’re good souls," added another amid the flurry of positive feedback from Kevin Bacon fans everywhere. "Nothing like fresh apples right in season, people will be grateful."

They're not wrong; the picture has served as a reminder of something I think we gardeners sometimes forget when we're busy admiring our tomatoes, filling baskets with courgettes or wondering what on earth we're going to do with yet another bowl of apples: a productive garden can give us much more than food for our own kitchens.

Shop Fruit Trees:

CZ Grain Apple Tree Saplings

Pixies Gardens Dwarf Shinko Asian Pear Tree

Plant Nook Everbearing Mulberry

Yes, growing your own food is often talked about as a wonderfully self-sufficient hobby, and it absolutely can be. But there's another side to growing that I find just as satisfying: having enough to share.

Fall is a brilliant time for this; fruit trees can be laden with apples and pears, blackberry bushes are still offering up handfuls of berries, and vegetable plots can suddenly produce considerably more food than one household can reasonably eat.

And fruit trees are an appealing addition to a garden because, unlike an annual vegetable that gives you one season of produce, they can become a long-term part of the garden, providing blossom in spring and fruit later in the year.

(Image credit: Patricia Hamilton / Getty Images)

Unlike an annual vegetable that gives you one season of produce, a healthy apple tree can become a long-term part of the garden, providing blossom in spring and fruit later in the year. There are varieties to suit different garden sizes, too, including more compact trees that make fruit growing possible without needing a huge backyard.

Mind you, it's important to remember that not every food bank can accept homegrown produce, and their rules vary considerably, so try contacting your local organization first to find out what they accept and how they would like donations handled. (And remember, there are plenty of other ways to share with neighbors, friends, community groups and local food-sharing schemes).

I don't think Kevin Bacon intended to deliver a profound lesson in horticulture when he posted his apple harvest. But, without really trying all that hard, he's reminded us that perhaps one of the nicest things you can grow is... well, a little more than you need.

Autumn, like so many things about this year, has taken me a tiny bit by surprise. Summer is starting to feel like a beautiful blur, filled with moments where I have caught myself mid-chore and told myself off for not spending enough time in the backyard. Now fall’s shaking out her vibrant colors, and I still haven’t sorted out my transitional containers, planted my spring bulbs, or harvested enough of my herbs.

Still, I do believe the joy of gardening is sometimes about the small victories. And for me, victories don’t come much more joyful than growing some of my favorite plants from tiny cuttings as the old season shuffles sideways. And since I’m feeling a little bit like I haven’t had the full serving with some of my current outdoor herbs, I’m (ahem) taking a leaf out of my own book and expanding my indoor glass collection with some of the best snip-and-save herbs to start in water. This might seem like a small service to your future kitchen garden, but I assure you: the payoff will be huge.

Why let all that lush, verdant color vanish at the first gasp of hard frost? You can bring those fresh, aromatic flavors indoors and keep them coming, and often for the price of a few snips, some clean glass jars, and plain tap water. This type of rooting can get a bad reputation for being fickle. But in fall, water propagation is your secret weapon: a way of bulking up your homegrown edibles, teasing more growing potential out of the year on the cheap, and creating a lovely insurance policy for your favorites. So find a little time in the cozy season to bring on the new harvests from the comfort of your windowsill, and get ready for tasty new growing victories…

Why Fall is Ideal for Herb Cuttings

Early fall is a great time for starting stem cuttings in water. Plants are still brimming with active growth hormones and seasonal vigor, and their soft green stems haven't hardened off for winter. Packed with natural energy, they are often at their peak flavor, and eager to root before going dormant. Choose the right stems and master a few simple hygiene and prep essentials, and you can create living color (and garden-fresh taste) that takes you right through to the new year.

Water propagation allows you to monitor root growth in your baby herbs in real time through clear glass, providing a clean, low-maintenance (and generally very affordable) way to rescue your favorite culinary herbs before cold weather sets in. Stem selection is key for the best second life indoors, though. Look for the softwood tips: those tender, bright green side shoots near the top that flex easily between your fingers. These fresh green stems are brimming with rooting energy and will sprout in plain water super fast compared to rigid base stems that have already hardened off.

(Image credit: SilviaJansen / Getty Images)

If you’ve tried water propagation before only to end up with a murky jar of stumps, please don't be discouraged. Those flops usually happen because of tiny, overlooked details, like submerged foliage or dull cutting blades. Before snipping any stems, make sure you're using the best gear. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: razor sharp scissors or snips are your best friend for cuttings. I strongly recommend investing in a teeny pair of super-sharp blades like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available from Amazon, for crisp cuts that allow young stems to sip water freely. And clean blades before and after use with a little isopropyl alcohol or diluted neem.

Snip right below a joint or leaf node, where the root-building cells are waiting to wake up. Before submerging stems, strip away all foliage from the bottom two inches (5cm) to ensure zero leaves rest below the waterline. To help nudge baby roots into action, you can also safely add a single drop of kelp to a larger glass of water. GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp Fertilizer, available from Walmart, stimulates faster root node development. Just keep an eye on water cleanliness, and replace the water every few days. When done correctly, rooting herb cuttings in water is magical to watch. Here’s my pick of the best herbal cuttings to try…

1. Mint

(Image credit: SilviaJansen / Getty Images)

If you’re a newbie looking for an easy little victory under water, grab some mint and watch it go. It’s the ultimate ego boost for water propagation in fall. It’s virtually indestructible and it roots in days. This is a true story: I once took a sprig of mint home from a night out after a lovely cocktail I wanted to remember. It was late at night, and I didn’t have a spare fancy vase I could use, so I emptied out a water mister and used that to house my little green minty sprig. A little over a week later, there was a long white root curling its way round the base of the water mister.

Whether you are working with classic spearmint, rich peppermint, or specialty mint varieties like chocolate or apple, these vigorous perennials possess an extraordinary capacity to generate adventitious water roots. Just keep an eye out for autumn flower spikes: if a stem is blooming or setting seed, nip those flower buds right off or choose a foliage-only side shoot instead. You want all of the stem's natural energy focused on pushing out roots rather than blooming.

Snip 4-6-inch (10-15cm) stems and strip off all foliage from the bottom half. Mint stems can be top-heavy, making tall, narrow-necked glass vessels or classic mason jars the ideal choice to keep stems upright. I’m a fan of Britegleam Tall Mason Jars, available from Walmart, to prevent flopping with bushier mint cuttings. Place on a warm windowsill receiving bright, indirect sunlight, but avoid harsh direct rays that foster algae. Expect roots within 3-7 days. Once they are a couple of inches (5cm) long and develop light side branching, you can move your cuttings onto a light, moist, well-draining potting mix. Just hold off on heavy nitrogen fertilizers for the first month to protect tender roots.

2. Oregano

(Image credit: Corinna John / Getty Images)

If you love the warm, cozy aroma of fresh pizza and pasta sauces simmering on a chilly fall evening, starting oregano cuttings in water before frost hits is a game changer. Classic Greek and aromatic Italian oregano varieties take to water propagation like a dream, as long as you pick the right stems. Look for soft, bendable green tip shoots and avoid stiff, brown stems. And if your oregano is sporting cute little late-season pink or purple blooms, give those flower heads a quick snip (I know: ouchie, but it’s important). Unpruned flower stems can often rot in standing water. You want the plant pouring 100% of its passion into shiny new roots.

Since oregano stems are fine, delicate, and prone to taking an accidental swim, glass container shape is everything. Wide-mouthed jars can cause problems. A stylish propagation station with slender glass test tubes or small bulb vases holds these fine stems upright, keeping leaves dry and root nodes submerged. If you need a good option for these cuttings, I like the narrow glass tubes you get with wooden propagation stations. Something like the Yibot Glass Propagation Station with Wooden Frame, available from Amazon, can house multiple cuttings in good shape.

Snip several 3-4-inch (8-10cm) cuttings, strip the lower foliage, and arrange in their cozy glass tubes with room-temperature water. It’s also a good idea to keep a full-spectrum LED grow light nearby, to give the cozy warmth and light boost they crave (12 hours of light a day helps prevent legginess). Oregano roots typically take 7-10 days to appear. Once the roots form a little web, you can move the cuttings into small pots filled with a light, well-draining soil. Planting multiple cuttings in one pot gives you a thick, bushy herb plant that looks gorgeous on a sunny kitchen counter.

3. Tarragon

(Image credit: Annick Vanderschelden Photography / Getty Images)

The secret to joyful tarragon propagation lies in distinguishing between varieties. True French Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa) is prized for its intense, licorice-like aroma and glossy foliage. Because this sweet anise beauty produces sterile flowers, you can't buy seeds for it. So snip-and-save water propagation is a lovely way to keep this culinary treasure alive and multiplying on a sunny winter windowsill for free (however, I’d stick with French varieties for water propagation).

Harvest non-flowering softwood tip cuttings from genuine French tarragon plants in early fall, before the cold night air turns the stems brittle. Hunt for tender side shoots that haven't developed woody bases or flower buds. Snip 4-inch (10cm) cuttings and strip off the bottom leaves. Caught at the right time, tarragon stems are soft and pliable, but that also makes them prone to slipping under water in wide containers. Tuck them into clear glass bottles with narrow tops, so stems stay upright and happy. Keep on a bright, warm windowsill, and replace the water every few days.

Tarragon root nodes respond well to clean water. They take a little while longer than mint and oregano, but they should sprout roots in 10-14 days. Once roots reach a couple of inches (5cm) long, pot cuttings into a light and fluffy soil mix to prevent stagnation. If you need a little extra drainage, add a sprinkle of perlite. Plantonix Perlite Bliss Premium, available from Walmart, keeps tiny roots safe and well drained as they grow. Keep the soil lightly moist during their first weeks, and skip any heavy plant foods for the first month, so those tender new roots can settle in stress-free. Before you know it, you’ll have fresh anise blasts of seasonal savory goodness.

Bonus Herb: Thyme

(Image credit: Karl Tapales / Getty Images)

When it comes to propagating thyme in water, many long-time gardeners will tell you it’s a tricky semi-woody herb with stems that rot in water. But thyme can be a sweetheart for water-based propagation, as long as you use a clever little foil trick. Classic garden thyme (Thymus vulgaris) and aromatic lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus) are ideal. The trick is to use the soft, green top shoots: the 2-3-inch (5-8cm) tips that flex easily. Skip the stiff, woody stems at the base, and snip off any tiny flower buds, so the cuttings can devote all their energy into healthy roots.

So how do you keep these fine, delicate stems from taking a dive and drowning? Easy, just pull out a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. If you don’t have any, grab a bargain roll of Reynolds Wrap Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil, available from Walmart. Crimp the foil snugly over the top of your small glass bottle or jar like a lid. Poke tiny holes with a needle or a pin, then gently slide your stripped thyme stems through. The foil suspends the leaves, keeping just the bottom half inch (1.25cm) submerged.

To give these stems an extra boost, try a little dip in some rooting gel to nudge these cuttings along. HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, available from Amazon, protects stem bases while encouraging speedier roots. Then place your jar on a warm, bright windowsill out of the harsh sun. While thyme takes slightly longer, you’ll hopefully see roots in 14-21 days. Once roots reach an inch in length, pot the cuttings up into a gritty soil mix, blended with perlite or sand. Keep the soil lightly damp for the first week to ease the water-to-soil transition, and skip heavy nitrogen feeds for 3-4 weeks. But oh, it’s worth the wait for more supplies of this personal favorite.

(Image credit: SilviaJansen / Getty Images)

Taking a few moments now to snip and preserve your favorite herbs is more than just a smart trick: it is a way to keep fresh flavor alive on your kitchen windowsill all winter long. By selecting healthy softwood plant cuttings, giving them bright indirect light, and providing fresh, regularly replenished water, you can effortlessly multiply your mint, oregano, tarragon, and thyme before the first hard frost arrives. Hold your nerve, keep an eye out for those little root nodes, and I hope you can soon enjoy some of the easiest, coziest rewards of the season. Happy propagation!

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

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As lush summer foliage begins to fade and weather cools in September, your hostas will benefit from a little extra attention. They’re preparing for dormancy now, so chores are all about letting that process happen while still supporting plants with what they need.

Most fall care is prepping for winter: pruning back, watering, and cleaning up foliage. But, if you’ve been growing hosta plants for a while, they might be large and overgrown. September is also a great time to divide and transplant clumps. Check this September chore list to see what you can do to support and encourage healthy hostas growth from year to year.

1. Divide and Transplant Big Clumps

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

You don’t have to divide hostas every year, but if it’s been a view, consider doing this chore now. In most places, September gives transplants enough warm weather and warm soil to get established before winter. The gentler temperatures and typically more frequent rains lessen the stress transplants often experience in the move.

Gently dig up large hostas in need of a division and use a sharp, clean garden knife to cut through the roots. (Our writers swear by this hori hori knife, available on Amazon). Make sure each division has healthy roots and a sizable part of the crown with stems. Replant the divisions in appropriate places and to the same depth as the parent plant. Keep watering the transplants regularly until winter dormancy.

2. Clean Up Foliage as Needed

(Image credit: Future - Amy Draiss)

Early fall is not the time to cut your hostas back all the way. Healthy green leaves are still doing photosynthesis, gathering energy to store for next year. It is a good idea, however, to tidy up any foliage that has already yellowed or is otherwise damaged by pests or disease.

Infectious agents and pests overwinter in this foliage, so remove it now. Add damaged foliage to compost and any leaves that look diseased to yard waste to be disposed of. Don’t let leaves stay put around the base of your plants where they can breed pests, fungal spores, and even nematodes.

3. Keep Watering as Needed

(Image credit: Nadya So / Getty Images)

Cooler temperatures don’t automatically mean your hostas don’t need additional water at this time of year. Hostas are thirsty plants due to their large foliage and thrive in soil that stays consistently moist. Having enough moisture going into winter keeps hostas healthy as they enter dormancy and better able to cope with the stresses of winter.

Keep an eye on the rain and check the soil around your plants. Water hostas deeply when the soil starts to feel dry through the first inch or two. Water at the soil line to prevent getting leaves wet. It’s always better to water deeply and less often than shallowly and every day. A soaker hose like this one from Amazon is a great option for easy, soil-line watering.

4. Check for and Manage Pests

(Image credit: VladK213 / Getty Images)

The end of summer also doesn’t mean the end of pests. Slugs and snails, some of the worst culprits for causing damage to hosta leaves, actually become more active in early fall as the weather begins to cool. Signs you have these hosta pests include holes in the leaves and slime trails around plants. You’re also likely to see them hanging around under leaves and at the bases of plants.

Keep the area around and under hostas clear of debris to deter these pests. When you see them, handpick them from the plants and dispose of them. You can also use slug and snail bait like this from Amazon around vulnerable plants. The more you can control these pests now, the better your plants will be able to gather energy through healthy, whole leaves.

5. Let Them Go Dormant Naturally

(Image credit: Andrii Chagovets / Getty Images)

If you’re new to growing hostas, you might not realize that the yellowing and deterioration of leaves this time of year is normal. While they're hardy in colder climates, hostas prepare for winter by going dormant. This means the foliage dies back, ultimately collapsing entirely after the first hard frost.

Don’t trim back foliage until this happens. Let your plants go dormant naturally so they can keep gathering energy to keep roots healthy over winter. Trim back and dispose of dead foliage once it is mostly yellow, brown, and wilted. You can add this to compost if it doesn’t look diseased. Otherwise, dispose of it. Don’t leave foliage on the ground all winter, either attached to the plant or removed.

Hosta Care Essentials

Divide

7" Hori Hori Garden Knife With Sheath

Water

50' Flat Soaker Hose

Defend

Garden Safe Slug & Snail Bait

Hostas are fairly easy plants to grow, one reason they’re so popular in many gardens. With just a few simple September care chores, these varied and gorgeous foliage plants will reward you next year with healthy new growth. And remember, don't worry if your hostas start looking a little messy in fall. Their gradual decline is a normal part of their seasonal cycle. The goal is to support the plants, not keep them looking perfect until winter.

Q. Rats keep tunnelling in my compost heap. I have tried traps, but ants eat the bait while leaving the trap unsprung. Do you know of any baits that will attract rats and not ants — or anything else I could to keep rats out of the compost?

A. I live in a neighbourhood where rats have been a major issue in properties close to mine. Only once did I find a rat in a corner of one compost heap. It was at a time when a series of eye surgeries had left me in too much discomfort to dispose of kitchen vegetable and fruit trimmings in my usual, rat-proof way.

With that one exception, I have a longtime habit of digging kitchen organic waste into deep holes in the garden where extra moisture retention would be helpful. The materials decompose quickly, “on-site.”

Because post-surgery discomfort made it impossible for me, for a time, to dig those holes, I put the kitchen waste on a heap, covering it lightly with some of the compost. The next time I approached that heap, a rat scurried out of it.

I realize that not every garden setup allows for disposing of kitchen peelings and other compostable food waste items using my burying method. Other measures include using purchased rat-proof composters or enclosures made of solid wood or/and wire mesh.

Certain scents are natural rat repellents. Coffee grounds have the reputation of being repellent to rats and are fine for adding, in moderation, to compost heaps — in scant layers or distributed around the sides of a heap.

I use mint to keep rats and mice out of my garden shed. When I have an abundance of mint in the garden I place entire stems around the inner perimeter of the shed. In winter I use cotton balls infused with mint in essential oil form or in a less expensive, strongly mint-scented mouth wash.

Eucalyptus and citronella are more essential oils whose pungent odours tend to deter rats.

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Fall is here and I’m so ready for it. Besides an excuse to make soup, bake bread and wear more layers, it’s a chance to rethink your sleep setup as we settle into shorter days. No room redo required — thoughtful updates to lighting and layers will make your bedroom feel warm, textured and ready for the cooler season. Here’s how to transform your snoozing quarters into the ultimate autumnal retreat.

Make the switch

I am a firm believer that the right lighting makes all the difference on a rainy autumn day. Trading bright overhead lighting for lamps with warm, ambient light is the first step in setting the right tone. Article’s Perforate lamp sets the scene with its punched-metal shade that casts a golden glow reminiscent of candlelight. Keep it within arm’s reach on those dark dreary mornings.

$119 | article.com

Swap in linen

Hot and cold sleepers unite! For the ultrasoft feel of a five-star hotel bed experience, wrap up in soft, breathable linens. Annie Selke’s linen sheets bring textured elegance to your bed, softening with each wash while regulating temperature as the weather shifts. Stonewashed for a lived-in look, a range of neutral shades work well within a moodier, earthy palette.

From $550 | annieselke.com

Upgrade to silk

I wish I hadn’t put this purchase off for so long: silk pillowcases. I paired my linen sheets with 100 per cent mulberry silk pillowcases from Quince. Silk is cool-to-the-touch and gentle on hair and skin. Its lightness and sheen create a subtle contrast next to heavier fabrics. This simple swap instantly elevates your bedding and helps ensure a smoother night between the sheets.

$55 | quince.com

Layer a throw

Finish the look with faux fur or a heavy-knit throw blanket. Urban Barn’s Moritz has a rabbit fur-inspired feel that is incredibly soft to the touch. Vertical tufting gives it a refined look, while two colours, a darker ash and a lighter ivory, complement any palette. Not only does faux fur add visual warmth, it’s also perfect for curling up with on chilly evenings.

$179 | urbanbarn.com

Top it up

Building a cool-weather cocoon calls for extra cushioning, and a mattress topper is an easy way to add a soft layer under your bedding. Even the firmest mattress can be transformed into a comfy retreat. Ikea’s Nordberget memory foam mattress pad has a washable cover and at 4.5 cm thick is sure to keep you snug all night long. Does double duty by protecting and extending the life of your mattress.

From $110 | ikea.com

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Mix it up. That’s what most garden designers tell you when you ask for advice, especially about a container garden. Try different shapes, a variety of sizes and heights, different colors; basically, give your eyes something to feast on. As seen in the Architectural Digest Open Door video below, Dakota Johnson’s garden that frames her pool in Los Angeles turns this advice on its head, because it’s actually the exact opposite.

Along the curved retaining wall of the property, originally designed in 1947 by Carl Mason, at least 20 or 30 terracotta planters are lined up in a row. It’s arresting in its simplicity, as they are all made from the same material, the same shapes, and repeated throughout the wall. While many designers would say, “Oh, that doesn’t work; you need some visual interest in your garden display,” I love it.

Who needs eclectic when you can have calm, meditative, and soothing? The main principle of this is one that designers often apply to container gardening ideas: repetition is your friend.

Why Container Repetition Works

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When planting borders, the idea of creating a rhythm and cohesion is very well established, and the same logic often holds when applied to containers. However, not many people trust it. Often, your first instinct is to treat each pot as its own world, and then combine that world with others. For example, glazed mixed with terracotta, tall and short, or a bright color with a more neutral beige. However, the result you get looks more like a display at your local garden center than a well-thought-out space.

Dakota Johnson’s approach strips all of that away. She committed to one material (unglazed terracotta) and pots of almost all the same size. This gives the whole thing a unified look rather than a collection of individual plants and objects. The eye has a chance to rest as it moves along the row, rather than jumping between competing pieces and getting stressed out. It’s a calming effect that far outweighs the busy.

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Cohesion; that’s the key word here. Terracotta is a great material for this because of its natural texture and tone. Each one ages slightly faster or slower than others, develops its own patina, and gives rise to a row that looks like it was grown rather than placed there.

Show Dakota-Inspired Pots

Yatddes Aged Terracotta Planter Pot With Drainage Hole

August Grove Set of 3 Pottery Clay Planters With Ribbed Detailing

Bloem Ariana 12" Self-Watering Plastic Planter with Rolled Rim

Getting the Scale Right

(Image credit: Banvega / Getty Images)

A very common mistake when container planting for a patio or next to a pool is using pots that are way too small for the area. A medium-sized terracotta pot that looks great on your windowsill can look completely out of place outside, or even worse, completely swallowed up. If you’re working with a very large hard surface, your container also needs to follow suit.

In Dakota’s garden, her pots are quite large, but not enormous. They’re still big enough to sit confidently along the wall, and they certainly don’t look like an afterthought. A good rule to keep in mind: A container should be no smaller than 12 inches in diameter for any poolside or patio arrangement, and you can go larger when the space allows for it.

If you’re having a hard time letting go of the “eclectic” look, you can always add a few oversized pots along with a row of medium ones to keep it from feeling too rigid without breaking the cohesive element.

What to Plant in Them

(Image credit: Tilen Josar / Getty Images)

So, what should you plant in your terracotta pots? That’s the big question. This is another thing Dakota’s arrangement gets just right: She planted similar shrubs, including roses and azaleas, repeatedly throughout all 20 or 30 terracotta pots rather than lots of different plants.

A natural fit for a poolside that gets a lot of sun would be succulents and drought-tolerant shrubs. They tolerate heat, reflected light, and the occasional splash from a pool without getting all sulky about it. Some examples are agave, aeonium, jade, and trailing rosemary, and the great thing about these plants is they require very little attention.

If your patio has more shade, look for something like ferns, hostas, or a row of clipped box balls; the type matters much less than your commitment to said type.

Practical Considerations

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Drainage is a big issue, and it’s something nobody probably told you about. Terracotta is porous and naturally weathers over time, but it’s one of the things that makes it so beautiful. It is, however, highly vulnerable to frost damage in colder climates. As water is absorbed into the clay, it can expand and crack the pot from the inside.

So, if you’re using traditional terracotta outside all year and you live in a climate that gets hard frosts, bring the pots inside. If this isn’t feasible, you can also get frost-proof terracotta, which is fired at a much higher temperature and is much more resistant. Another alternative is double-walled resin pots with a terracotta finish; same look, less worrying about exposure.

The lesson from Dakota is pretty simple: choose a material, commit to it, and buy way more pots than you think you’ll need.

Every single time my husband and I go to IKEA (which is surprisingly more often than you'd expect), he trundles us off to look at the houseplants.

This isn't particularly surprising. He's a professional gardener, after all, which means I'm married to someone who can apparently find a reason to inspect a plant in virtually any building, garden center or supermarket we happen to walk past (the man carries secateurs with him on our dog walks, for goodness sake!).

What does surprise me is that he genuinely rates IKEA as one of the best places to buy houseplants – and not just because they're convenient or inexpensive.

Why IKEA Houseplants Are So Good

Now, his reasoning for all of this is remarkably simple: if a plant can sit in the artificially lit basement of a busy superstore, surrounded by people, trolleys, heating and air conditioning, and still look happy enough to sell? Well, it's probably going to cope pretty well with ordinary life at home.

It's for this reason that my husband has branded IKEA's toughest houseplants “bulletproof and beginner-friendly”, and he's not wrong. If you look at the shelves, you'll tend to spot snake plants, ZZ plants, pothos and peace lilies – aka houseplant varieties that are considerably more forgiving of imperfect light, missed waterings and the general chaos of real life than some of the more demanding divas you'll find.

If you're anything like me, then, and don't live in a perfectly controlled greenhouse, this is brilliant news. Because, hey, we have radiators, we go on holiday, we forget to water things (far too frequently), and we put plants in rooms that don't get quite as much sunlight as we'd hoped. So sue us, right? Sometimes life simply gets in the way (even when it's our birth month houseplant on the line).

Shop IKEA Houseplants:

IKEA Epipremnum Potted Plant - Golden Pothos 6 "

IKEA Palmmix Potted Plant - Assorted Species Plants 9 ½ "

IKEA Monstera Adansonii Potted Plant - Adanson's Monstera 6 "

This is where these IKEA houseplants have the advantage. Oh sure, they're not necessarily the rarest or most exciting plants in the store, but they're the sort of houseplants that thrive on neglect. And for a beginner – or anyone who has already accidentally killed one too many “easy-care” plants – I'd argue that reliability is a fairly underrated quality.

As my husband all too readily points out, there's also the not-so-small matter of price. After all, IKEA makes it relatively painless to experiment with houseplants without spending a fortune, and you can pick up everything else you need at the same time. My husband heads for the compost and plant-care supplies; I head straight for the pots. Everybody wins.

And there's one other thing my husband has noticed over the years: because IKEA has such a high volume of shoppers, the plants don't tend to sit around unnoticed forever. When we visit, we're often seeing fresh plants coming into the store rather than the same sad specimens gathering dust in a corner. (Of course, stock varies by store and season, but a busy plant section can be a good place to look for healthy specimens that have been newly delivered).

(Image credit: Vita_Dor /Shutterstock)

If you're nervous about buying your first houseplant because you're convinced you're going to kill it, spending a relatively small amount of money makes the experiment considerably less intimidating; you can try a snake plant in one room, a ZZ plant in another, a pothos in a thirdand see what actually works in your home. If something doesn't thrive, you've learned something without having spent a fortune.

And because IKEA sells pots, saucers, compost and other plant-care essentials alongside its houseplants, you don't need to make three separate trips to get everything set up.

Of course, my husband isn't claiming that every houseplant at IKEA is indestructible, so be sure to stick to the tried-and-tested classics. And whatever you buy, check the individual plant before putting it in your trolley; you'll want to look for healthy foliage, avoid plants sitting in obviously waterlogged compost, and check underneath the leaves for signs of pests.

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Fortune-Friendly Watering

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Make life easier for yourself and set up a pretty indoor watering system.

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KIIZYS Indoor Garden Tools

These lightweight tools are perfect for indoor gardening tasks.

Balancing Spray

Lianshi Lianshi Plant Mister

Keep your plants happy with a thorough misting (it helps if the mister is as pretty as this one!)

Basically, I suppose my husband is saying that IKEA tends to stock many of the plants that are already naturally good at surviving the less-than-perfect conditions of ordinary homes – and it makes them accessible, affordable and easy to buy.

You can't say much better than that now, can you?

October brings an unmissable opportunity to stock up your garden with flowering plants in time for them to grow strong root systems to support abundant blooms next year. While you’ll have to wait a few months for your reward, plants will be far more robust and resilient than if planted in spring, so you can be sure they'll thrive as well as simply survive. Not all plants appreciate a fall planting, however, so here we bring you the very best flowers to plant in fall to fill your yard with plentiful petals for years to come.

Garden centres rely on instant gratification for peak sales in spring and summer. But add a blooming or about-to-bloom plant to your backyard then and it will have to deal with the double stress of producing flowers as well as settling roots into its new home. The more stressed a plant gets, the more it prioritizes blooms over roots; the fewer roots it grows, the less it can fuel this flower growth. So, once the additional stress of summer heat hits, this loop can quickly prove fatal. And we’ve all dug up a dead plant with its root system still in the shape of the pot it was bought in.

Choose flowers to plant in fall, however, and you give them a far better start to life in your yard. The soil is warm and moist enough to allow roots to reach into the ground, where they’ll be able to source nutrients and water. Waking early in spring, plants will get busy growing those roots some more so, when it’s time to flower, they'll have strong systems to support and fuel the blooming process. And while you’ll still need to keep your plant watered, it will cope with the stress of heat and drought far better.

Not only are you protecting your investment – and goodness knows, plants aren’t cheap! – but you’ll often find many popular perennial plants are far cheaper to buy in fall. Here's what to plant in October, for a garden brimming with blooms next year.

1. Peonies

(Image credit: Walter Erhardt / Shutterstock)

October is the ideal time to plant peonies because the plant will focus on growing roots rather than stems, setting up a robust system for a strong start next spring. Fall is also peak time for harvesting peony bare roots, which is a much cheaper way to buy these beautiful plants. Simply plant the bare root with the eyes (buds) uppermost, no more than 2 inches below the soil surface and water in.

Typically hardy in zones 3-8, peonies are incredibly long-lived plants so are a great garden investment. Dutch Grown has a vast selection of peony varieties to choose from, including many new Itoh peony cultivars (that combine the best features of bush and tree peonies for a longer blooming period) such as Itoh Peony ‘Lollipop’. Or start a full-on love affair with peonies and get great value for money with a value pack of varieties such as this Peony Sweet Caroline Collection, also from Dutch Grown.

2. Azalea

(Image credit: Dave MacVean / Getty Images)

Another favorite on our list of flowers to plant in October is azalea, one of the finest shrubs for a front yard. Fall brings the best conditions for this shrub to make itself at home in your garden, ready for a showstopper display next year. Shorter days trigger the plant to grow roots rather than pushing out new stems, and more evenly moist conditions make it easier for them to get a good hold.

Azaleas have remarkably shallow root systems, making them vulnerable to heat and drought stress, making a fall planting a particularly smart move. Make sure you add a 2-inch layer of mulch over the soil once planted to protect the soil from temperature extremes though, and prevent winter’s freeze-thaw action heaving these shallow roots from the ground. A pine bark mulch such as Timberline All Natural Pine Mulch, available from Lowe’s, gives azaleas the acidic conditions they adore.

For a showstopper azalea, you won’t do better than Autumn Royalty Encore Azalea, available from trees.com (formerly Fast Growing Trees). Despite its name, it's been bred to bloom from spring, all through summer into fall in zones 6-10, rewarding your investment richly with beautifully vibrant flowers month after month.

3. Wisteria

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Wisteria needs consistent moisture when first planted to reduce transplant shock, so planting in fall means you’re not spending hours battling quick-drying soil. The plant also directs all its growing efforts underground in fall, so it’ll set up a strong root system far more quickly than if you planted in spring.

These beautiful vines are well-known for taking their time to bloom, too, so buying in fall when they’re usually heavily discounted means you can afford a more mature plant that flowers fast. One of the best perennial plants to plant in fall, once you have added a wisteria to your yard, you can expect it to bloom for decades to come.

Amethyst Falls Wisteria Vine, currently on sale at Nature Hills, is a native American that brings heaps of blooms without the invasive tendencies of asian varieties in zones 5-9. Blue Moon Wisteria, also available from Nature Hills, is another excellent choice as it reblooms up to three times a year for lots more flowers and is particularly hardy, thriving in zones 3-9.

4. Alliums

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Alliums are a great asset to any border, and one of the best set-and-forget bulbs to buy in fall. October is the very best time of year to get allium bulbs into the ground and there are varieties that will bring blooms from May all through summer, from the tiny drumsticks of Allium Sphaerocephalon to the spectacularly big spheres of Allium Globemaster, in zones 3-9.

Dutch Grown stocks a super selection at sensible prices. And if you thought all alliums were violet, think again! Dutch Grown’s Allium Tropical Tides Collection features warm-hued pinks and reds, while the Allium Ice and Sky Collection has elegantly cool blue and white hues.

Alliums are such a cheap and easy way to add year-after-year color to your garden, and these are plants that practically grow themselves. Just bury the bulbs, pointed side up, at a depth that’s equal to 2-4 times the height of the bulbs and wait for blooms the following year. If the ground is already damp from fall rain, you don’t even need to bother watering them in.

5. Yarrow

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Achillea is an exceptionally resilient plant that deserves a spot in every garden, and quickly establishes itself in the still-warm soil following a fall planting in zones 4-9. As long as the ground isn’t fully frozen, root growth will continue through winter so once warm weather returns, you can expect a burst of fern-like foliage and flat-topped flower clusters, packed with nectar to feed hungry pollinators – far more than if you’d added the plant in spring.

Yarrow likes fast-draining soil so while you should give it a water after planting to settle the soil around its roots, and irrigate if it doesn't rain, natural moisture will typically see this tough-cookie plant through the winter.

Take a look at the New Vintage series if you want long-lasting, fuss-free color in lean soil like that tricky strip of ground alongside your driveway or curb. New Vintage Red Yarrow, available from trees.com boasts ruby-red flowers from early summer through fall, while New Vintage Terracotta Yarrow, also available from trees.com has color-shifting blooms that morph from a vibrant terracotta to champagne-yellow.

Russian Sage

(Image credit: Patsy Davies / Alamy)

This incredibly drought-tolerant beauty is seeing a huge surge in popularity, thanks to it being one of those showy accent plants that landscape designers love but anyone can grow. Fall is an excellent month to add Perovskia to your garden as without the pressure to produce its beautiful blue flower spikes, the plant will put all its energy into growing a good root system. There is one exception, however: the flip side of this plant's high drought tolerance is that it hates to have its roots sitting in soggy soil – so if you have heavy clay ground that sits wet over the winter, it’s better to wait until spring.

There are all sorts of varieties to choose from but Denim ‘n Lace Russian Sage, available from Plant Addicts is a favorite with landscapers as it brings an exquisite pairing of lavender blooms and lacy, silvery leaves to zones 4-9. If you’re pushed for space, Baby Jean Baby Russian Sage, also available from Plant Addicts, is a compact, neat-growing variety that still delivers abundant blooms in zones 4-8.

Leaving Russian sage stems in place over winter and giving your new plant a gravel mulch to keep the crown dry will help it settle in. Pea gravel like this Landscape Rock from The Home Depot is perfect and the small pebbles will naturally work their way down into the soil to give this plant the fast-draining soil it loves.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Plant all these popular perennials in fall and you’ll have strong, healthy plants for plenty of lush growth and vibrant flowers next year. And we do mean plant them all, because they all deserve a place in every garden! Adding these flowering plants in fall means you’ll cut the time you need to spend watering them next summer (though you will still need to water them some!) and save money to boot. So, if you want a yard with a backbone of plants that reliably bring color, year in, year out, take advantage of this October planting window and steal a head start on summer.

As fall arrives and trees begin shedding, millions of gardeners head out to the shed to grab their lawn rakes. Most of us were taught early on that if we leave a heavy blanket of oak and maple leaves on grass, it leads to yellowed, patchy grass come spring. Because a neglected pile of wet leaves can indeed cause damage, it is easy to see how this warning gained traction. However, claiming every fallen leaf must be raked or your lawn will die asks far more of the evidence than is strictly needed.

Standard lawn care advice moved past this blanket rule decades ago, replacing the need for endless weekend raking with a far smarter, less back-breaking alternative: mulch-mowing. Instead of spending hours bagging and hauling leaves away to sit in plastic sacks, you simply run your regular lawn mower over them. A couple of steady passes with a sharp mower blade chops dry fallen leaves into manageable flakes.

Rather than sitting on top of the grass as a thick, airtight mat, these leaf fragments can go to work in the layers below. Beneficial earthworms and soil microbes pull the rich organic bits underground, breaking them down over the winter months. By the time spring arrives, the nitrogen and potassium trapped inside those leaves will be feeding your lawn for zero extra cost. Sound too good to be true? Here’s the reality of leaving leaves on the lawn in the same state as they left the tree – and how easy it can be to harness this leaf fall for good.

Meet the Fall Leaf Myth

It helps to recognize that one variation of the myth is rooted in fact. A thick, wet carpet of heavy leaves sitting on dormant grass will block sunlight and trap excessive moisture around plant crowns in cold months. Extension specialists (such as the University of Maryland Extension) advise clearing heavy leaf mats for this reason. In these cases, it’s a good idea to grab some yard waste bags, such as Durasack Heavy Duty Yard Bags, available from Amazon, to get things tidy. Just as long as you aren’t just doing this every time because you are terrified of a lawn spoiling.

Yes, prolonged dark, wet conditions do create the perfect breeding ground for destructive cool-season fungal diseases, particularly gray snow mold (Typhula incarnata) and pink snow mold (Microchrochium nivale). Both of these can damage turf grass at temperatures just above freezing. Where the “always remove leaves” rule overreaches is in using the word “always” in recommendations about clearing.

(Image credit: Somnuk Krobkum / Getty Images)

In the 1990s, when the state of Michigan banned yard waste from municipal landfills, turf scientists at Michigan State University (MSU) set out to test exactly how much leaf debris established grass could tolerate. Their findings surprised even experienced agronomists. Researchers discovered that up to six inches (15cm) of oak and maple leaves could be mulched directly into established Kentucky bluegrass with no adverse effects on turf health or density. This is way past ankle deep, far more leaf volume than most suburban lawns ever see at once. Decades of university field trials proved that leaf survival doesn't depend on clearing the lawn, but on one crucial detail which the old rule completely ignores…

Why the Myth Sticks

(Image credit: Somnuk Krobkum / Getty Images)

The main reason this fall cleanup myth remains so embedded in lawn care culture comes down to visibility: lawn damage is obvious, while soil improvement is invisible. Anyone who has left a pile of leaves on the grass through winter has probably witnessed the yellow patch left behind in April. That stark visual sticks in our minds and does all the persuading on its own. Conversely, a lawn that has been properly mulch-mowed looks like nothing happened. By spring, the fine leaf fragments have disappeared into the soil, leaving no visible trace behind. One outcome makes an argument, and the other leaves behind a thriving lawn.

The key factor that people might overlook is that particle size matters far more than the sheer presence of leaves. A whole broad oak leaf and a dime-sized fragment of that exact same leaf behave like two different materials once they hit the grass. A whole leaf acts like a shingle, sealing out air and trapping standing water. A tiny fragment of that leaf drops between the blades and starts rotting, exposed to beneficial soil microbes.

Many gardeners may fear that mulching oak leaves will sour soil acidity. However, soil testing by MSU scientists in 1998 confirmed that decades of mulching oak leaves into turf caused no discernible shift in soil pH, but it did increase the presence of rich, beneficial, organic matter. If in doubt, you can always check your soil pH with a diagnostic tool to be on the safe side. The highly rated Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Test Kits from The Home Depot are an easy, reliable way to get a preliminary read on health underground, and one kit includes 40 tests.

Problems with the Myth

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Following the old "rake every leaf" rule to the letter isn't just unnecessary labor: it also means paying money to haul natural fertility away, only to pay again for fertilizers to replace it. Research from the University of Connecticut Extension highlights that mulching a 2-inch (5cm) layer of fall leaves into your lawn returns approximately 3.4 pounds (1.5kg) of pure nitrogen per 1,000 square feet (93sqm) over a season, alongside a generous dose of plant-available potassium. Sure, leaf residue contains lower nitrogen levels than grass clippings, and none of this should replace a full lawn fertility program – but this free organic boost can easily form part of your early spring feeding on established turf.

Beyond free nutrients, mulching leaves provides a surprisingly powerful natural defense against spring weed outbreaks. Fine leaf residue settling into the base of the turf canopy covers exposed soil patches. Because bare, sunlit soil is precisely where annual weed seeds germinate, this gentle organic blanket of leaf fragments suppresses weed growth before it can start. Field trials published by MSU researchers showed that regularly mulching maple and oak leaves led to lower common dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) numbers in Kentucky bluegrass. Over three consecutive seasons, gardeners who switch to mulch-mowing could see significantly lower dandelion and crabgrass pressure in their lawns (though of course any given lawn could respond differently).

Beyond the Myth

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Successfully mulching leaves into your lawn comes down to a couple of things: timing and lawn mower deck height. Crisp, dry leaves chop cleanly and effortlessly, whereas a waterlogged, soaked layer of foliage will smear, clump, and clog up your mower deck. For the best results, raise your lawnmower deck to its highest setting and drive at a slow, steady pace, overlapping each pass so the leaves are cut twice.

You can get a Universal 3-in-1 Mulching Blade from The Home Depot that fits most 21-inch (53cm) walk-behind decks. A light leaf drop usually requires two passes, while tough, leathery oak foliage might need three. After leaf shredding, you should see green grass poking through, with fine leaf bits settled comfortably at soil level.

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Of course, common sense still applies. Heavy leaf drifts that pile up deep against fence lines, dense shade corners, or foundation walls are too thick for any mower deck to process cleanly. Newly seeded lawns are another exception; fragile young grass seedlings need maximum sunlight and cannot push through leaf residue.

In these situations, use a wide, lightweight poly rake. The GreatBuddy Adjustable Lawn Rake with 53-Gallon Bag from Amazon has an adjustable 25-tine rake with a wide 18-inch (45cm) head, and comes with a massive 53-gallon cleanup bag. Remember, any excess leaves you rake off the lawn don't need to go to waste. They make a phenomenal moisture-locking winter mulch for vegetable beds and flower borders.

Get Ahead of the Leaf Drop

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Although September is relatively quiet on the leaf drop front across most regions, it is actually the most critical month to get started with your leaf fall. Mulch-mowing works best when you stay ahead of leaf accumulation, and can become a struggle if you wait until a thick, wet mat has formed. The best habit to build in early fall is mowing your lawn every week with the deck set high, whether a massive amount of foliage has fallen or not. Cool-season grasses are putting their energy into roots through fall anyway. So keeping the turf canopy open and active is vital.

Taking 20 minutes to sharpen your mower blades before autumn hits makes a world of difference. A dull blade tears leaves into large, unsightly rags that sit on top of the grass, whereas a sharp blade pulverizes them into fine dust. It’s worth investing in a good sharpener. You can pick up Smith's 50603 Handheld Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener from Walmart for an inexpensive way to keep mower blades razor-sharp so they cleanly slice dry fallen leaves.

Finally, if you find yourself with an abundance of raked leaves, sweep them into your flower beds or vegetable plots. Shredded leaves act as a great winter blanket over exposed soil, preventing winter erosion and breaking down into rich humus by spring. Keep up your weekly mowing schedule until cool weather halts grass growth entirely for the season.

Shop Lawn Care in Fall

Great lawn care is about time savers that make your biggest living plant look better and work harder. Combine efficient leaf raking with smart mulch-mowing and lawn feeding to keep your lawn healthy while saving you hours of labor later. This trio can help you make more of your fall debris while keeping things tidy and in good shape.

Lawn Care Trio

Handheld Blade Care

Smith's Smith's Handheld 50603 Lawn Mower Blade Sharpeners, Orange

This nifty sharpener keeps mower blades razor-sharp so they cleanly slice dry fallen leaves into fine flakes rather than tearing them into clunky strips. It has enhanced safety features and replaceable blades, and its compact size means it fits in even modest tool boxes.

Winter Protection

Scotts Scotts Turf Builder

Supplement your leaf mulch: this formula can deliver essential nutrients that repair summer heat damage and build strong, deep root systems before winter freezes set in. Applying this fall lawn food ensures your grass greens up faster and grows back thicker, stronger, and more disease-resistant come early spring.

Cleanup Combo

GreatBuddy GreatBuddy Adjustable Rake and 2 Pack 53 Gallon Yard Waste Bags

Featuring an adjustable 25-tine rake with a wide 18-inch (45cm) head, this cleanup set lets you quickly clear heavy leaf drifts out of borders and low corners without scraping up turf crowns. Use the 53-gallon pop-up bag to move dry foliage to your compost pile or flower beds.

The traditional lawn care rule was never actually that leaves must be gone: it was simply that they need to be small. Whoever wrote the old rule about clearing every single fall leaf was guessing at the most obvious solution available at the time, and homeowners have suffered through long, exhausting Octobers ever since. By replacing your heavy rake with a weekly pass of the lawnmower, you can stop fighting against fall leaves and start using them to nurture a healthier lawn for spring.

More Garden Mythbusters

• Does the Pointy End of a Bulb Really Need to Be Facing Up When You Plant It?
• Vegetable Companion Planting Myths – Plus, the Planting Pairs that Really Work
• Does Gravel in the Base of Pots Really Help with Drainage?
• Do Pine Needles Make Your Soil Dangerously Acidic?

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Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) coast through summer on very little attention. Fall asks a bit more. The trailing stems that eventually carry flowers and baby plantlets usually form once nights run long and stay dark for several weeks straight. By late September, nights across the country are already longer than days.

Standard spider plant care covers the basics all year. September adds a short list on top of it, mostly aimed at plants coming back in from a porch or patio, plus a couple of jobs that shape how the plant looks come winter.

1. Bring It Back Inside Ahead of Cold Nights

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Cold is one thing spider plants don't shrug off. Most guidance puts the safe floor somewhere around 45–50F (7–10C), and tropical houseplants in general should head indoors once nights settle near 50F (10C). In parts of the Midwest, that can mean mid-September. A first frost warning is the deadline, not the cue – by then the plant has likely sat through several chilly nights already.

The move goes smoother in stages. Shift the pot into light shade for a few days, followed by deeper shade, and only after that bring it into a bright spot out of direct sun. A few yellow leaves after the switch are normal. Once it's settled, keep it a few feet back from drafty windows as the weather cools.

2. Check Every Leaf for Hitchhikers

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Pests that barely register outdoors can build up fast once a plant is inside for the winter. Spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) are a common one on spider plants, leaving fine pale stippling on the leaves and sometimes faint webbing. Whiteflies (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) turn up as well. So does soft brown scale (Coccus hesperidum). Tip the pot sideways and look at the undersides of the arching leaves, then slide the root ball out and check the drainage holes, too.

A hard rinse with the hose knocks back light infestations. For anything heavier, Amazon carries Garden Safe insecticidal soap, a ready-to-use spray that only kills what it touches – so both sides of every leaf need a thorough coat. Test a few leaves first and give it about a week before treating the whole plant. Soap injury can be slow to show.

3. Give It Long, Dark Nights

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Plenty of houseplants don't care much how long the night is. Spider plants do. Spider plant flowers (and the plantlets that follow) typically appear after at least three weeks of short days and long nights without interruption. A plant parked beside a lamp that stays on until midnight might keep making leaves and not much else.

Indoor plants don't always stick to that pattern, and some throw runners at odd times of year. Still, fall is when they produce most of their offshoots. A room that goes dark after sunset helps. Bright, indirect light during the day is still the goal, though midday sun through glass can scorch the leaves.

4. Pot Up the Plantlets

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You can propagate spiderettes that already have little root nubs – just snip them off and set them into moist mix. The ones without roots do better staying attached for now. Set a small pot beside the mother plant, rest the plantlet on the soil surface, and pin it down with a bent paper clip until it roots, then cut the runner. These nursery pots from Amazon make it easy to spot when roots have filled out.

A soilless medium is the usual pick for rooting. Amazon stocks Espoma Organic Seed Starter, a peat and perlite blend made for seedlings and cuttings. Keep it evenly damp but not soggy. Wait four to six months before feeding newly potted plantlets.

5. Stop Feeding and Flush the Soil

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Spider plant feeding can taper off now. Growth slows as the light fades, and heavily fertilized spider plants tend to produce fewer plantlets anyway. Leftover fertilizer salts are also a common cause of brown, crispy leaf tips.

Before the plant settles in for winter, pour a generous amount of plain water through the pot and let it drain out completely. It rinses away some of that buildup. Tap water can cause the same browning on its own, since spider plants are sensitive to fluoride and chlorine – rainwater or distilled water sidesteps that problem. Water a little less often as the house cools, letting the soil dry slightly between waterings.

By late fall, the difference usually shows up in the runners. A plant that came in clean and spent its evenings in the dark has a good shot at trailing a fresh set of plantlets over the edge of the pot before winter is out, and each of those can become another spider plant.

A trip to the garden center can quickly become an expensive day of shopping. Most high-quality plants aren’t cheap and buying enough to fill an entire landscape can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

That’s why I asked our Digital Community Manager and in-house plant shopping expert, Amy Draiss, about the best time to buy plants. She’s a former garden center manager with 20 years experience, so she knows when to buy plants and essential gardening tools if you’re looking for the best deals.

This is the latest installment in our series Garden Center Secrets, where we share insider tips only garden center employees know in order to help you shop smarter at the nursery. Here’s the best time to buy plants and garden tools, according to a former garden center manager.

Best Time to Buy Plants

Draiss reveals the secret behind sale times at the garden center. “The best time to shop for bargains is when we need to move older stock to clear space for what’s coming next.” You can even find sales on plants online from sources like High Country Gardens.

Gardening is a seasonal hobby, so of course nurseries function seasonally as well to meet gardeners’ needs. Draiss says, “Garden centers operate in seasons: inventory comes in waves, demand rises and falls, and eventually we need to make room for new merchandise, whether that’s bulbs, mums, or holiday plants.”

As you may have been able to guess, the end of the growing season is the best time to buy plants at a discount. Draiss says, “Usually the lowest price on plants comes after the peak selling season.”

But this can vary depending on the type of plant. “Shop for annuals after the initial spring rush, shop for perennials in late summer into fall.” She reveals other good times to buy popular types of plants, “Spring-flowering bulbs can usually be found on clearance very late in the fall or early winter, when there is still plenty of time to plant. Seeds can often be found on sale starting in August, depending on your area.”

If you’re looking for trees and shrubs, fall is a good time to head to the nursery. But Draiss warns not to wait too late. “Just be sure to plant early enough to give the roots time to establish before winter arrives.” Take a look at Trees.com (formerly Fast Growing Trees) for great sales on trees, shrubs, and an assortment of perennials online.

(Image credit: Stefania Pelfini la Waziya / Getty Images)

Draiss also shares another surprising tip, “Even if a plant simply goes out of bloom, it may end up on the sale rack.” But don’t be scared off by the way these dormant plants may appear. Draiss says that even if a plant looks unimpressive when it’s marked down, if the root system is solid, it will bounce back the next spring.

But Draiss also warns gardeners not to wait all season in hopes that your favorite plant will go on sale. “If you’re looking for something particular or fulfilling a landscape design, buy as soon as you see it available. If there is a specific variety you need, don’t assume it will be sitting there when the clearance stickers come out.”

Best Time to Buy Garden Tools

As you might expect, Draiss shares that deals on garden equipment like hand tools, mowers, blowers, and hoses follows a more predictable sales cycle. She says these sales are usually aligned with major retail events, holidays, and Prime Day.

She recommends, “If you need a new lawn mower, trimmer, or pressure washer, shop during late fall and holiday sales when discounts are deeper and demand is lower.” So keep an eye out in the coming weeks and months as we enter the big shopping season for garden tools and equipment.

(Image credit: Lucy Ryan / Getty Images)More Plant Shopping Tips

There are a few basic tips to follow when shopping that ensure you buy plants that will thrive. Draiss says, “While any time can be a good time to buy plants, your best move is to choose healthy specimens suited for your hardiness zone.

“Plants that have just finished blooming are often great steals, but pass on anything with diseased or broken branches. After all, if a bargain plant doesn't survive after you plant it, it isn't really a bargain.” So don’t waste your money on plants that won’t last a full season, no matter how much the price is marked down.

Draiss revealed one final tip that’s easy to forget: ask the employees. They are the ones who know exactly what’s going on at your specific local garden center. So Draiss tells gardeners, “Don’t be afraid to ask! While they might not reveal everything, garden center employees usually know which plants are about to go on sale and when fresh shipments are arriving.”

Gardening Deals Calendar

• Early Spring: This is the absolute best time for the best selection of many plants and gardening products including fertilizers and soil amendments. This isn’t the best time for pricing but if selection is more important, this is the time.
• Late Spring: Watch for sales of spring-blooming plants and annuals that may begin appearing at reduced prices.
• Summer: Watch for seeds, annuals, summer-flowering bulbs and other seasonal product markdowns.
• Late Summer: Start watching closely for clearance prices or buy more, save more deals.
• Fall: Fall is potentially the best time to find bargains along with seasonal equipment markdowns as the demand is now low.
• Late Fall: Watch for major retail events such as Amazon Prime Day and Black Friday.

I've said it before and I'll say it again; I love a lavender dupe!

Don't get me wrong; I love lavender, too. It's fragrant, romantic, wonderfully purple and somehow manages to make even the most ordinary garden path feel like it belongs somewhere in Provence. But there's a problem with having a garden full of lavender: eventually, the flowers fade, the stems get a little woody, and you're left waiting for next year's display.

Which is why I've become rather fascinated by the plants that can give us that same cottage garden feeling while keeping the show going for a little longer, whether that's salvia or catmint. And right now, in September, one particularly fragrant lavender dupe is still flowering away across the country while plenty of our summer favorites are beginning to look... well, look really tired.

Meet The Lavender Dupe That Flowers All Fall

I have become increasingly convinced that anise hyssop might just be my favorite lavender dupe of all!

It might sound as though I've wandered into the herb section by mistake, but bear with me. Anise hyssop (available to buy via Nature Hills) is a North American native perennial with upright spikes of purple-blue flowers and wonderfully aromatic foliage.

Despite the misleading name, it isn't actually a true hyssop... and it isn't lavender either. Still, it has enough of that soft, vertical flower-spike effect to make it a very convincing garden dupe. Especially as, much like lavender, it has its own distinct scent (a little like anise or licorice, actually, when you brush against it).

(Image credit: Mauricio Acosta/Getty Images)

The first thing you'll notice about anise hyssop is the shape; its upright flower spikes look very like lavender, but they tend to to be taller, with the flowers held above aromatic green foliage rather than forming the woody mound we associate with many lavenders.

Where it really earns its place, though, is as a late-season lavender dupe. Depending on the plant and growing conditions, anise hyssop can flower from midsummer into autumn. Indeed, some USDA Zones may find that this one keeps on going until the end of October (especially if you deadhead spent flowers).

As an added bonus, its flowers are attractive to bees, butterflies and other pollinating insects, and hummingbirds can also visit the blooms, making it a must for wildlife gardens. Just give it full sun and well-drained soil; much like actual lavender, you'll find it very tolerant of relatively dry conditions once it's established.

Shop The Best Lavender Dupes:

CATMINT

Sacred Roots Nursery Anise Hyssop

Anise hyssop is a brilliant wildlife-friendly plant that keeps blooming all fall.

CATMINT

EKT Nursery Purrsian Blue Catmint

Catmint blooms forever, looks beautiful, and doesn't go woody!

SALVIA

WAROON Purple Salvia Plant Live for Planting, Blue Purple Salvia Plant for Home Garden in Half Gal Pot - No Ship Ca

Another fragrant perennial, salvia is an absolute pollinator magnet.

You'll also want to give this lavender dupe some room, as anise hyssop can reach around 3 to 5 feet tall, depending on conditions and variety; stick it in the middle or back of a border, then, rather than somewhere you're trying to keep everything low and compact.

Look, lavender isn't going anywhere in my garden. It still has that gorgeous scent, that silvery foliage and that unmistakable Mediterranean charm that makes it such a perennial favorite.

That being said... well, anise hyssop gives me the purple flower spikes I love, keeps flowering well into the later part of the season, smells unexpectedly delicious when I brush past it and brings a steady stream of pollinators into the garden when I really don't want the wildlife buffet to close for the year. Who am I to say no to all of that?