Organic Gardening News

Plenty of homeowners shut off their sprinklers in fall and call it done. That valve keeps new water out, but the water in the pipes, valves, and heads stays put. If you’re wondering how to winterize sprinklers, start by getting that water out.

In-ground lawn irrigation systems hold water in spots a shutoff can’t reach, including the valves, low points in buried pipe, and the backflow preventer. Frozen water expands, and plastic pipe, fittings, and sprinkler cases can crack under that pressure.

A sprinkler blowout isn’t hard, but you shouldn’t rush it. Too much pressure can pop nozzles off and damage pipe, and compressed air is rough on eyes. Lots of homeowners handle it themselves while preparing the garden for winter. Some systems are better off with a pro, though.

Why Turning Off Your Sprinklers Isn’t Enough

So why isn’t the shutoff enough? Water swells by about one-eleventh as it freezes at 32°F (0°C), with enough force to burst pipes and crack valves or sprinkler casings. Electric valves are another problem. They hold water above an internal diaphragm, and only compressed air pushes it out.

Drain valves help, but they don’t catch everything. They count on evenly sloped pipe, and buried lines shift over time and trap water in low spots. Skip the blowout, and you may find split fittings and cracked valves at spring start-up.

When to Winterize Your Sprinkler System

Plan to winterize your sprinkler system before your area's first hard freeze. In colder regions, that often means tackling the job in early to mid-fall. An established lawn won't be harmed if you shut off the irrigation a little early – it will green up again once watering resumes in spring.

Backflow preventers and exposed pipework are the first parts of the system at risk because they're exposed to freezing air, while buried pipes are vulnerable only after prolonged cold drives frost deep into the ground. In some mild-winter regions, irrigation systems aren't designed with a blowout port because draining the above-ground components is usually enough. In these areas, simply shutting off the water supply, turning off the controller, and draining exposed parts may be all that's required.

What You’ll Need

Air Compressor

Craftsman 20-Gallon Vertical Air Compressor (175 PSI)

Adaptor Kit

Hourleey Sprinkler Winterizing Blowout Adapter Kit With Shut Off Valve

Adjustable Wrench

Husky 10-Inch Adjustable Wrench

• Air compressor: You'll need an air compressor with enough airflow (CFM) to push water out of the sprinkler lines. Airflow is more important than maximum PSI, and a larger tank means you won't have to stop as often to let the compressor refill. I recommend the Craftsman 20-Gallon Vertical Air Compressor, available on Amazon, which delivers 5 CFM at 40 PSI – plenty for most residential sprinkler systems when blowing out one zone at a time.
• Sprinkler blowout adapter: You'll need an adapter to connect the compressor hose to your system's blowout port. I like the Hourleey Sprinkler Blowout Adapter Kit, available on Amazon, which includes durable brass fittings and a quick-connect adapter compatible with most home irrigation systems.
• Safety glasses: Always wear eye protection when blowing out sprinkler lines. A pair of NoCry Safety Glasses is a good option.
• Adjustable wrench: Keep a 10-inch wrench handy for loosening caps and fittings. I use this Husky adjustable wrench from Home Depot.

How to Winterize In-Ground Sprinklers

1. Turn Off the Water Supply
   Start by closing the water supply. It's often a stop-and-waste valve in a basement or underground box. Don't force it. If you're unsure how to drain sprinkler lines, look for manual drain valves at the low points or ends of each line and open them. Drain any pump, too, and store it indoors.
2. Connect the Air Compressor
   Attach your sprinkler blowout adapter to the blowout fitting just downstream of the backflow preventer, then connect the air compressor hose. Close the isolation valve downstream of the backflow preventer first, as air should never be forced back through the backflow device.
3. Blow Out Each Zone
   Open one irrigation zone at the controller, then slowly increase the air pressure until only a fine mist and air come out of the sprinkler heads.
4. Repeat and Finish Up
   Turn the compressor off before switching zones, and give each zone two passes. When you're finished, leave the backflow preventer's ball valves and test cocks half-open to prevent trapped water from causing damage over winter.

(Image credit: Getty Images)How Much Air Pressure Should You Use?

Don't focus on pressure alone, though. Airflow (CFM) is just as important, as it determines how much water the compressor can push out of the pipes. A compressor with too little airflow may leave water trapped in low spots, increasing the risk of freeze damage.

For many residential irrigation systems, around 5 CFM is sufficient when blowing out one zone at a time. The Craftsman Vertical Air Compressor I recommended above is rated at 5 CFM (142L per minute) at 40 psi (276kPa).

(Image credit: Getty Images)Why Sprinkler Blowouts Can Be Dangerous

Wear safety glasses throughout the process. Air blasting from an open fitting can send water, grit, and small debris flying fast enough to cause eye injuries. Keep clear of sprinkler heads, valve boxes, and risers while the system is pressurized. If you have pets, it's also a good idea to keep them indoors, as the sudden bursts of air and loud whistling from the sprinkler heads can be startling.

Air should never be forced against a closed valve, so always open one irrigation zone before switching on the compressor. Once a zone is clear, don't keep blowing air through it. Running compressed air through dry pipes for too long can generate heat through friction, potentially damaging sprinkler heads, fittings, and seals. Likewise, never force compressed air through a backflow preventer, as it can damage the internal components.

When to Hire a Professional

If your irrigation system doesn't have a blowout fitting downstream of the backflow preventer, you'll need to install one before you can safely blow out the lines. Some systems also require more specialist knowledge. For example, reduced-pressure (RP) backflow preventers need to be partially disassembled and drained, while large irrigation systems or those with extensive polyethylene pipe can be more difficult to clear with a typical home compressor.

Professionals use high-volume commercial compressors that move far more air than most homeowner models, allowing them to clear larger systems more efficiently. They can also winterize the backflow preventer during the same visit. When hiring a contractor, look for one certified through the Irrigation Association or EPA WaterSense program. If you already use a lawn care or landscaping company, check whether sprinkler winterization is included in your seasonal maintenance package.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What to Do With the System Over Winter

Leave the irrigation controller plugged in and set it to Off or Rain Mode. That may sound counterintuitive, but the transformer's small amount of heat can help reduce moisture buildup and corrosion.

Insulate any exposed pipework and above-ground shutoff valves, but don't block the vents or drain openings on the backflow preventer. For outdoor spigots, Frost King Foam Faucet Covers, available at Walmart, offer an easy way to add extra freeze protection.

If your backflow preventer is installed above ground, consider covering it with an insulated cover, such as this backflow preventer cover from Modern Leisure, available on Amazon. Just remember that a cover provides extra insulation – it doesn't replace properly draining and blowing out the system before winter.

When spring arrives, close the test cocks, open the ball valves slowly to avoid water hammer, and run each irrigation zone to check for leaks or cracked sprinkler heads. If any need replacing, Rain Bird 1800 Series pop-up spray heads from Ace Hardware are a reliable replacement for many residential systems.

Water that isn't in the pipes can't freeze in them. Remove it before winter, and spring start-up should be little more than a slow turn of the valve and a quick system check.

We all love a garden bargain but when a product goes on sale that you would happily pay full price for, you know you're getting great value for your hard-earned bucks. And this year's Prime Day doesn't disappoint with prices slashed on products from Felco pruners to Costa Farms houseplants, Keter storage to Birdfy feeders and Workpro shears. And you can skip straight to the best Amazon Prime Day deals for gardeners because our garden experts at Gardening Know-How have done all the sorting for you.

All these products have four-star or higher customer ratings, and all boast a discount of between 15% and 50%. So, whether you're buying for yourself or getting your Christmas shopping done early – and yes, it's perfectly acceptable to buy your garden a holiday gift, too – these are the deals we're shopping. From gardening tools to time-saving garden gadgets and trusty planters, these are the products you'll reach for on repeat.

Ready? Let's shop!

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One of the fun things about gardening is that there are no absolutes, including the optimal timing for pruning. Yes, you can prune a few plants in October in some regions, but mid-fall isn't the right time to give all garden plants their haircuts. For some, it can be decidedly dangerous.

Timing your fall pruning is more important than you might think. The last thing you want to do in October is chop off the buds for next season’s flowers – and this is entirely possible. Plants that set buds on old wood have set those buds by October, and every healthy branch you prune will contain those buds.

But that’s not all. Pruning plants stimulates growth. That means when you prune in October, you encourage new growth on those branches. And if you live in a region with cold winters, that tender new growth will die during the freezing weather. And don’t forget that autumn is often rainy, and fall pruning wounds can lead to fungal issues and bacterial infections. Finally, some plants are “bleeders,” oozing sap like there’s no tomorrow when pruned back in fall.

So, the question remains: which plants actually benefit from October pruning? Here is a short list of plants you should trim back this month, plus an overview of those you should absolutely not subject to mid-fall pruning. But let’s get started with some general fall-pruning tips.

Practical Fall-Pruning Tips

It’s important to get some ground rules before pruning anything at all in October, so let’s take a look at some good practices.

• Pruning time depends on region and weather. If you intend to get out the pruners in October, wait until the plants in your area enter complete winter dormancy, dropping all leaves. That may not happen until mid-month or later. If they aren’t dormant, new growth may appear during warm spells after freezing, growth that will die back overnight in the cold weather to come.
• Don’t prune in the rain or fog. Wait until a dry day comes round. Pruning during moist weather leads to fungal infections.
• Make sure your tools are clean and sharp. You may need to sterilize them during pruning if any of them are already infected. Dull cutting blades will not make clean snips. Bypass pruners are the best choice for most fall pruning jobs. The Felco F6 Bypass Pruning Shears, available on Amazon, were rated the best pruners in our testing. Keep them sharp with a Corona sharpener, also on Amazon.
• Keep the 3 Ds method of light pruning in mind. This lets you remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood without going overboard.
• Know your plants. Our list gives you a starting point for October pruning, but you may have other plants you can trim. Knowing your plants means checking which of them flower on new wood and which flower on old wood. Prune the latter group immediately after the flowers fade. New-wood bloomers will not lose flowers from an October trim.
• Think of the wildlife. Some plants produce seed pods that wildlife relies on for food or spent foliage that wildlife relies on for shelter. Leave these plants alone in fall. Wildlife makes the world go round.

Plants to Prune in October

Eenie-meeney-miney-mo is NOT the way to decide who to trim in October. And don’t even consider a whole-garden tidy-up. Any pruning should be targeted and carefully selected. Choose the landscape trees and shrubs that will benefit from pruning in October. Here are some specific plants to get you started.

1. Japanese Spirea

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Japanese spirea is a landscape favorite that grows in a compact mound and grows fast. It is beloved for its long-lasting summer flowers and dramatic multi-season foliage color.

The best time for a heavy annual pruning is in early spring. This will push the plant to bloom intensively. October is also a good time for a light prune using the 3 Ds methodology. While you’re there with the pruners, take out any spent blooms that remain on the shrub.

2. Panicle and Smooth Hydrangeas

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

The timing of pruning hydrangeas depends on the type. Old wood bloomers, such as mophead and oakleaf hydrangeas, should never be pruned in fall because you'll remove next year's flower buds. Smooth and panicle hydrangeas, however, bloom on new spring growth, making them suitable for light pruning in October.

Wait until the shrub has dropped all its leaves and is fully dormant before reaching for the pruners. If either type puts on fresh growth after an early trim, that tender new growth is more likely to be damaged by freezing temperatures.

Save any hard pruning until late winter or early spring, but a simple 3 Ds prune in late October is worthwhile. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased stems, then cut away spent flower heads – particularly on panicle hydrangeas, where the large blooms can become heavy with snow and ice and cause branches to snap. If needed, you can also shorten stems by up to one-third to tidy the shrub, leaving any major reshaping until spring.

3. Raspberries

(Image credit: Irina Shatilova / Shutterstock)

These small berry plants should not be hard-pruned in October, but summer-bearing raspberries should get targeted sanitation cuts in fall. Prune out the old, brown, wood-stemmed floricanes that finished fruiting earlier in the summer. Now’s the perfect time to cut those brown stems to the ground. At the same time, you can tie in the fresh green canes.

For fall-bearing raspberries grown for two crops, prune off only the top portion of each cane that produced fruit in fall. Leave the lower part of the cane intact, as it will produce a second crop the following summer. Once that summer crop has finished, remove the entire cane to ground level.

You can also trim or prune blackberry and gooseberry in October, but only if they are summer-fruiting varieties. Be sure you know your type, and cut the year’s fruiting canes all the way down to the ground.

4. Blueberries

(Image credit: Maksim Safaniuk / Shutterstock)

When pruning blueberries, stick to the 3 Ds pruning method in October. Inspect the shrub for any dead, diseased, or damaged canes and remove them with clean, sharp pruners. You can also clear away any weak, broken, or crossing shoots that are obviously causing problems, but save any major pruning until late winter or early spring while the plant is still dormant. At that point, you can thin out older canes to encourage vigorous new growth and better fruit production.

5. Roses

(Image credit: Melanie Griffiths)

Pruning roses is usually a late-winter or early-spring job, but October is still a good time to give both bush and shrub roses a light trim. Reducing overly long or whippy canes by about one-third helps prevent strong winter winds from rocking the plant and loosening its roots. It also makes roses easier to protect with rose cones or other winter coverings. Save any hard pruning until late winter or early spring.

October is also the perfect time to tidy up around your roses. Rake up and discard any fallen leaves and prunings, as this debris can harbor black spot spores and other fungal diseases over winter.

One exception is Knock Out roses. Because they flower on new spring growth, you can prune Knock Out roses by around one-third in October without sacrificing next year's blooms. For other rose varieties, stick to light shaping now and leave more substantial pruning until the plants are dormant in late winter.

6. Southern Magnolia

(Image credit: Getty Images)

For gardeners in the South, October is the ideal time to prune magnolia trees. Many southern magnolias continue flowering into fall, so avoid reaching for the pruners too soon, or you'll cut the display short.

After flowering has finished, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches and lightly shape the canopy if needed. It's best to avoid pruning southern magnolias in winter, as fresh cuts can cause the tree to bleed sap.

For trees, rather than risk balancing on a ladder, invest in a telescopic pole pruner, like Fiskars' 2-in-1 Extendable Tree Pruner and Pole Saw.

7. Gardenia

(Image credit: Santiago Urquijo / Getty Images)

For gardeners in warmer regions, October is also a good time to prune gardenias. These fragrant shrubs typically bloom throughout summer and can continue flowering well into fall, so it's worth waiting until the display has finished before reaching for the pruners.

Once flowering is over, remove any leggy, dead, damaged, or unhealthy growth and lightly shape the shrub to maintain its form. Avoid heavy pruning, as this can reduce next season's blooms.

8. Fruit Trees

(Image credit: Animaflora / Getty Images)

No, we are not telling you to do structural pruning on fruit trees in October. This should not happen until late winter. In October, though, it’s a good idea to remove dead and damaged wood, including broken limbs.

For pruning apple or pear trees, remove low branches that rub the ground in October. For plum or apricot trees, clip off any diseased wood or mummified fruit to prevent fungal spores from overwintering.

9. Most Herbaceous Perennials

(Image credit: Igor Paszkiewicz / Shutterstock)

Not every perennial should be cut back in the fall. In many cases, it's actually better to leave them standing through winter. Ornamental grasses add texture and interest to the garden during the colder months while also providing shelter for wildlife, and coneflower and black-eyed Susan seedheads offer an important food source for birds.

However, some herbaceous perennials are best cut back in October, particularly those prone to fungal diseases. Leaving infected foliage in place can allow problems to overwinter and reappear the following season. Iris, hollyhock, phlox, peonies, bee balm, hostas, and any plants showing signs of powdery mildew or other fungal diseases should all make your October pruning list.

10. Shrubs with Suckers

(Image credit: Tony Baggett / Shutterstock)

Most overgrown shrubs and trees are best left unpruned in late fall, as cutting them back can encourage tender new growth that's vulnerable to winter damage. One exception is suckers – the thin shoots that emerge from around a plant's base. Left unchecked, these can form dense colonies, spoil the plant's appearance, and divert energy away from the main shrub or tree.

Common landscape plants that produce troublesome suckers include dogwood, black locust, lilac, forsythia, sumac, witch hazel, and many fruit trees. During your October cleanup, cut suckers off as close to their point of origin as possible. You may need to scrape away a little soil to remove them cleanly from the base for the best results.

Fall Pruning Essentials

Our Top-Rated Pruners

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Pro gardeners can't get enough of Felco pruners – and these scored top in our testing.

Keep Blades Sharp

Corona Tools Handheld Garden Tool Sharpener

This handy sharpener keeps pruners in top condition for clean cuts.

Long Reach

Fiskars 2-In-1 Extendable Tree Pruner and Pole Saw

This telescopic tool is brilliant for trimming trees and tall climbers – no ladders required.

When to Stop Pruning in Fall

When the weather turns extreme, stop your fall pruning. This can mean rain, snow, hail, or high winds. It can also mean drought. These conditions put plants under stress so you should avoid adding pruning stress.

What Not to Prune in October

Generally, you should never prune plants in October if they bloom on old wood, including spring-blooming shrubs that form their flower buds on old wood (like lilacs, forsythia, and rhododendron).

Also avoid pruning plants that use their summer growth to survive winter weather, and plants that support wildlife. These include plants like black-eyed Susan, coneflower, ornamental grasses and Russian sage.

It’s also a good idea to avoid cutting trees like maples, birches, dogwood and elm are sap-heavy and they can leak excessive sap if cut in autumn.

October is a good time to shift geranium care from promoting summer growth to preparing for cooler weather. Depending on where you garden, your geraniums may still be blooming heavily, but eventually these tender flowers will face winter, and you'll need to do some prep work.

It’s important to note that geranium care depends on the type you’re growing. The term geranium usually refers to a tender perennial most gardeners grow as annuals, known as Pelargonium. True geraniums are different and are hardier perennials often called cranesbill. Here, we’ll cover essential fall care for Pelargoniums, with a few notes on true geraniums.

1. Deadhead and Trim Lightly

(Image credit: Getty Images)

To encourage blooms for as long as possible, keep deadheading your geraniums. Cut the entire faded flower stalk back to where it meets the main stem using a pair of sharp bypass pruners, such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, to make clean cuts without crushing the stems. Eventually, the plants will slow and stop blooming naturally as the weather cools. This is normal.

It’s also a good idea to trim back any damaged or yellow foliage. Keep an eye out for signs of fungus or mold and remove and dispose of any leaves that look infected. Especially if you’re bringing plants indoors for winter, diseased and damaged foliage will persist and cause issues if you don’t remove it now.

If you have hardy geraniums, you can do a tidying trim, but they don’t need a heavy trim now or much deadheading.

2. Cut Back on Fertilizer

(Image credit: GKSFlorapics / Alamy)

Tender geraniums benefit from regular feedings throughout the summer. Bloom-boosting products, like Scotts Super Super Bloom, keep them flowering well into fall, but by October it's time to stop feeding in most areas. Too much fertilizer can trigger fresh, green growth at a time when the plant should be slowing down and preparing for winter. True geraniums generally don't need fertilizer in fall.

3. Adjust Your Watering Schedule

(Image credit: Getty Images)

You can also cut back on watering this time of year, but don’t let your plants dry out too much. This adjustment is based on need, not a complete stop to watering. Cooler temperatures and shorter days usually mean the soil stays moist for longer, so you may not need to water as often.

If it isn't raining, check the soil and water when the top inch (2.5 cm) feels dry. Use a moisture meter if you don't trust the finger test – the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available on Amazon, also checks soil pH, temperature, and sunlight intensity.

If you’re moving geraniums indoors for winter, taper off watering before you move them. Hardy geraniums don’t need much water, especially if they are well established. Water only if you have drought conditions or excessive heat.

4. Take Cuttings

(Image credit: Zhanna Hapanovich / Shutterstock)

Even if you plan to keep Pelargoniums indoors for winter, early to mid-fall is a good time to propagate geraniums from cuttings. Not all tender geraniums will survive winter indoors, despite your best efforts. Cuttings serve as insurance against this failure, especially if you have favorite plants you want to enjoy again next year.

Choose a healthy-looking, non-flowering stem and use sharp, clean shears to remove four to six inches (10 to 15 cm). Place the cut end in quality potting soil or rooting mix, like this Soil Sunrise Plant Propagation Potting Mix. Place it in a spot with bright but indirect sunlight and warmth. Keep the medium moist but not soggy as the roots grow.

Hardy geraniums are best propagated by root division. Fall is a good time to do this. Carefully dig up the plant, separate a clump of roots that has plenty of healthy growth, and replant it right away. Water it as it gets established.

5. Shelter Tender Geraniums

(Image credit: Jonas Rönnbro/Getty Images)

While you can always let your tender geraniums go as temperatures drop, a little protection can help you enjoy them longer if they're still flowering. Move potted plants to a sheltered location that protects them from wind, or to a spot that’s sunnier throughout the day.

Use plant covers, like this frost blanket from Amazon, or even an old sheet or burlap to cover tender geraniums overnight as temperatures drop. If daytime temperatures still support them, this can help you get a few more flowers and more enjoyment from your plants.

6. Bring Tender Geraniums Indoors

(Image credit: Johner Images/Getty Images)

Many people treat geraniums as true annuals, disposing of them at the end of the season. They are perennials only in very warm areas, generally USDA zones 10 and higher, so they won’t survive winter outdoors in most places. As an alternative to letting them go, you can bring potted geraniums indoors to overwinter. True geraniums are usually hardy from zones 3 through 8, so they’re fine in winter in most areas.

Bring your potted plants inside before overnight temperatures regularly fall below 45–50°F (7–10°C), or before the first frost if that comes sooner. Trim back about one-third of the foliage and place the plant in a bright spot but away from cold drafts or vents. Always check for pests before bringing any plants indoors. Look along stems and on the undersides of leaves and remove all pests to avoid contaminating houseplants.

If you find signs of pests, spray plants with an organic neem oil product, such as Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil spray from Amazon, before bringing them indoors, making sure to coat both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves. Allow the foliage to dry completely before moving the plant inside.

Fall Geranium Care Essentials

Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil Ready-To-Use Spray

Soil Sunrise Plant Propagation Potting Mix

Valibe Plant Covers Freeze Protection

Fall care for geraniums has two main purposes: helping you enjoy the flowers for as long as possible and preparing plants you want to save for winter storage. While you can simply let your annuals fade into winter, a little extra care extends the bloom time and even allows you to keep plants for next year. And if you grow hardy geraniums, you're in luck. Fall care needs are low, and they should be back next year.

There is something rather beautiful about a garden at the end of the season. Flowers that were once bright and full are beginning to fade, petals have fallen away and seed heads have taken their place, but rather than looking finished, many plants take on an entirely different character.

Don't believe me? Just ask Martha Stewart, who has made a point of turning the slightly weathered and faded beauty of late-season flowers into an atmospheric Halloween display.

Honestly, if you love the season of the witch, it's a brilliant way to add your own unique twist to your Halloween decorations. Because, sure, pumpkins might be traditional, but there are more fall décor options to be found around your garden (and no, we're not just talking about your spooky porch plants).

Martha Stewart's Halloween Flower Trick

A long way from the usual pumpkins, plastic spiders and orange decorations, Martha Stewart's Halloween display uses the things a garden naturally gives us at this time of year: think dried flowers, dark seed heads, wispy grasses and stems that have been allowed to age in place.

Set against deep, muted colors and a few carefully chosen spooky details, the result feels more like an autumn still life than traditional Halloween décor. Or, you know, something that Morticia Addams would proudly display on her dining room table.

Check it out:

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If you want to recreate Martha Stewart's Halloween display for yourself, then you may already have much of what you need growing in your garden. (Although if you want that skeletal effect, you can get a very similar Halloween Skull Planter from Amazon).

Scabiosa, for example, develops delicate seed heads, while coneflowers (true to their name!) leave behind sturdy cones that can remain attractive well into fall. Alliums somehow become even more magnificent once their flowers have dried, and ornamental grasses take on an airy quality that works particularly well in an autumn arrangement.

Even flowers that might look a little past their prime can have their place; faded hydrangeas develop wonderfully muted shades of green, mauve and brown, while spent dahlias and roses can add the darker texture that makes a Halloween display feel atmospheric rather than overly polished.

Shop Halloween Accessories:

Acellegic Halloween Skull Planters

Boston International Halloween Taper Candle Holders

Ynxee Human Heart Organ Shape Vase

Martha Stewart has long embraced this kind of seasonal material in her Halloween decorating, recommending everything from dried pods to rose hips for arrangements. The idea is less about finding a perfect black flower and more about bringing together unusual shapes and textures.

It's particularly appealing as it doesn't require you to grow anything specifically for Halloween; if you've been growing flowers throughout summer, take another look at them before you clear the garden for winter, choose a handful of the most interesting shapes and bring them indoors.

For a more Halloween-inspired look, work with deep reds, burgundies, browns and muted greens rather than relying entirely on orange and black. A black taper candle (available as a pack of four from Leor & Lair)can provide the final touch without overwhelming the plants themselves. And there's nothing stopping you from adding a skull or a pair of skeletal hands, as Martha's display does.

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While some plants benefit from being deadheaded, there are good reasons to leave other seed heads standing for a little longer. They can provide food and shelter for wildlife, add winter structure to borders and, as this display demonstrates, provide beautiful material for seasonal decorating.

So before you cut everything back and tidy away the last remains of summer, take a leaf from Martha Stewart’s book. After all, those faded flowers may not be finished just yet; they might simply be waiting to give their best performance as particularly pretty members of the undead!

Once October turns gray and drizzly, the hose tends to be wound up on its reel and stored away for the winter. It’s tempting to believe that the sky has the job covered from here until the end of the year. For long-established trees and deep-rooted shrubs, that may be close to true. However, for newly planted trees and shrubs you added in the past 6-12 months, it’s another matter. The gap between a wet surface and a thoroughly soaked root ball is where countless fall plantings quietly fail.

Standard advice on watering the garden often counts rainfall against the weekly watering total, which works fine provided someone is measuring how much moisture penetrates the soil. A light autumn shower or drizzly afternoon may darken surface mulch and wet the top inch of soil, giving the illusion of a drenched yard. But a significant portion of that will evaporate or run off before ever reaching the roots below. The yard may look watered, but the root ball often remains bone dry.

For many newly planted shrubs and trees, consistent hydration remains critical until the soil freezes solid. While above-ground branches settle into winter dormancy, young roots actively expand into cool fall soil. Ensuring these fresh roots receive adequate moisture protects them against winter desiccation, frost-heaving, and freeze damage, setting the stage for explosive spring growth. So if you’ve heard it’s OK to stop watering in fall, here’s the truth for new trees and shrubs…

Meet the Myth

On the surface, the logic behind stopping your fall watering routine seems entirely sound. Cooler air temperatures reduce transpiration (the process where plants lose water vapor through their leaves). Autumn weather naturally feels wetter, characterized by heavy morning dews, misty rain, and overcast skies that linger for days. Lower water demand is a real thing in autumn: an established oak, maple, or lilac with years of expansive roots spread through native soil can easily ride out a dry October with little fuss. However, for anything planted this year, the logic falls apart.

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The root system of a freshly transplanted shrub or tree remains confined to its original root ball for many months. This root ball frequently dries out far faster than the surrounding native soil, primarily due to textural differences. Commercial nursery potting media (often composed of lightweight pine bark and peat) drains rapidly, creating a moisture barrier where it meets heavier native clay or loam. Water moving across this soil boundary slows down, so native soil can feel damp while the root ball remains dry. Furthermore, dense canopies on evergreens like arborvitae or boxwoods act like umbrellas, deflecting rainfall outward past young roots.

Why the Myth Sticks

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Surface appearances can be remarkably persuasive to busy gardeners. Dripping roof gutters, slick driveways, and damp patio pavers give the illusion of a thoroughly soaked yard when viewed from the comfort of your kitchen window, even on days when a rain gauge reveals barely a quarter-inch (6mm) of precipitation fell. Damp wood mulch acts much like a deceiving weather report, masking dry soil hidden just two inches (5cm) beneath the surface.

The primary reason this myth persists so stubbornly is a delay in visible symptoms. Root damage caused by dry fall soil rarely manifests right away. Trees and shrubs with root systems that have been injured over a dry fall and winter often leaf out normally in early spring, drawing on stored starch reserves. However, once the heat of late spring or midsummer arrives, these compromised plants collapse and die as their damaged roots fail to supply water. At that point, you might blame the heat, poor nursery stock, or disease, and the problems of October are long forgotten. Recognizing that can help you avoid this costly, disheartening trap.

Problems with the Myth

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Root growth continues long after leaves change color and drop in fall. Tree and shrub roots can keep growing as long as soil temperatures remain above 40°F (4°C), which often extends weeks past the first hard frost. This late-season growth is the primary advantage of fall planting in the first place, but that growth relies on available soil moisture. Without consistent water, root tips wither, halting establishment and leaving the shrub weak as winter approaches.

Cold weather imposes its own pressures. Dry soil contains air pockets that freeze rapidly, conducting sub-zero temperatures deep into the root zone. Conversely, moist soil holds thermal energy, insulating roots against rapid temperature swings. Roots are far less cold-hardy than above-ground woody stems. While branches might survive sub-zero winds, tender roots suffer cell death when soil temperatures drop below 20°F (-7°C). A good mulch, such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch from Amazon, can help protect existing soil moisture levels, but it cannot just be assumed that the soil is moist enough to keep new plants and trees in good shape.

Evergreen trees and shrubs endure the worst consequences of fall drought. Needles and broadleaf foliage keep losing water on bright, windy winter days. If the root ball entered winter dry and froze solid, roots can’t replace the lost water. This can result in severe browning foliage on the windward or sunny side of the plant, known as winter burn. Dry soil also contributes to frost-heaving, where freezing cycles lift poorly anchored plants out of the ground, exposing bare roots to freezing air.

Beyond the Myth: Real Rules

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A reliable guideline for newly planted tree and shrub care goes like this: if your yard receives less than an inch (2.5cm) of natural rain within a 5-7-day period, newly planted trees and shrubs require manual watering. Applying around 10 gallons (38 L) of water twice weekly effectively drenches a standard 20-24-inch (51-61cm) root ball, providing the equivalent of that missing inch of rain.

Guessing at rainfall amounts allows the fall watering myth to persist. Installing an inexpensive, wide-mouth rain gauge on a fence post eliminates guesswork. The AcuRite Blue Capacity Rain Gauge, available from Walmart, costs only $6, with numbers big enough to read without walking out in slippers. However, rain gauges cannot account for dense foliage or thick layers of mulch. The most reliable test is manual inspection. Push a long screwdriver 2 inches (5cm) into the central area (gently). If soil comes up dry, gritty, or warm, it’s time to water thoroughly.

Delivery speed is critical when watering fall plantings. Dumping water rapidly from a bucket or high-pressure hose nozzle causes water to sheet off the compacted surface of a root ball, running into surrounding native soil without penetrating the core. Instead, go for slow, low-pressure soaking methods that allow moisture to sink deep into the root zone. Sandy soils drain rapidly and may require two light soakings weekly, while heavy loam responds best to one deep, slow soaking every 7 days.

Taking Action With New Plantings

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In fall, establish a weekly monitoring routine for every tree and shrub planted this year, aiming for a slow, deep soak. You can get watering bags, such as the Oyezvary Twenty-Gallon Tree Watering Bags from The Home Depot, which release water slowly. The Melnor Flat Soaker Hose, available from Lowe’s, does the same for a hedge row or a cluster of shrubs.

When watering young trees, drench both the root ball and the surrounding backfill soil. Soaking the backfill encourages roots to venture out to help strengthen and support the plant. Continue this deep-soaking routine right up until the ground freezes solid. Once topsoil freezes hard, stop watering, as plant roots can’t pull water out of frozen soil anyway. In southern climates (zones 8-10) where ground freezes rarely occur, continue checking soil moisture monthly throughout winter, applying a deep soak during dry, warm spells above 40°F (4°C).

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Finish by spreading a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) layer of organic wood mulch in a wide ring around the tree or shrub, pulling it back 3 inches (8cm) from the trunk. Make sure you always water first before you mulch. Remember: mulch acts as a protective blanket to contain existing soil moisture and insulate root temperatures, but it cannot generate moisture all on its own.

Fall rain isn’t useless. A heavy storm that delivers a full inch (2.5cm) of rain over 24 hours covers your watering duties for the week, allowing you to leave the hose coiled with a clear conscience. The rest of the time, a quick rainfall check and a manual soil probe can help to ensure that your new plantings thrive for years to come. Taking a few quiet minutes each week gives your younger garden characters the best possible start. Trust the process, embrace the quiet rhythm of fall garden care, and enjoy watching your new trees and shrubs flourish when the warmer days return…

More Garden Mythbusters

• Does the Pointy End of a Bulb Really Need to Be Facing Up When You Plant It?
• Vegetable Companion Planting Myths – Plus, the Planting Pairs that Really Work
• Does Gravel in the Base of Pots Really Help with Drainage?
• Do Pine Needles Make Your Soil Dangerously Acidic?
• Will Leaves Left on the Lawn Always Smother and Kill Grass?

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

It’s easy to think cold weather is what kills off your lavender. Soggy roots and soft late growth in cold winds tend to cause the real trouble, and a few changes in early fall can get you ahead of both.

Lavender is native to dry, stony hillsides around the Mediterranean, and a long, wet winter in a garden bed is not even close to those conditions. Winterizing lavender plants doesn’t take a whole lot of effort, though. Most of your work will take place in late summer and early fall, well before the first real freeze shows up.

The year-round lavender care already covers the biggest factor. That is, soil that drains fast in a spot with full sun. Heavy clay or low, soggy ground starts winter at a disadvantage. Beyond that, fall prep mostly comes down to doing things a bit earlier and doing less with them.

Start with a Green Sweep

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The first thing to do is a "green sweep" pruning. This is a light trim that stays inside the leafy part of the plant. Gather a loose handful of stems and cut away about one-third of their length. Leave an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of this year’s green growth above where the wood starts. Lavender rarely produces new shoots from bare wood, so stems cut into the woody base may not regrow. What you trim off is fragrant and can be tied in bundles and dried.

Always use clean, sharp blades. They cut more smoothly and reduce damage to the remaining stems. Hand pruners are plenty for one or two plants, but remember that a rounded plant shape sheds snow better than a flat top. For a long row, hedge shears like Fiskars' Power-Lever Garden Hedge Shears save time and come in different sizes on Amazon.

Four to six weeks before the first hard freeze is the usual window, but a later trim can produce soft growth that has no time to harden off. Many gardeners limit fall work in the coldest regions to deadheading and leave shaping until spring. Spanish and French lavender are less cold-hardy and are usually only deadheaded in fall.

Stop Fertilizing by Late Summer

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Lavender fertilizer applied in September often produces dead stem tips by spring. Late nitrogen encourages new growth when the plant should be slowing down, and that growth is usually the first to show cold damage. Lavender does fine in soil of low to moderate fertility.

Early August is the practical cutoff in most regions for liquid feeds and slow-release granules, which can reach the root zone when spread around nearby perennials. Don’t feed until new growth appears at the base in spring. Established plants in reasonable soil rarely need more than a light application even then. A light compost mulch in spring is enough for the season.

Taper Off the Watering

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Lavender in winter is more often killed by wet soil than by low temperatures, especially in regions with rainy winters. Water less often and let the soil dry a few inches (5–8 cm) down as the days shorten. Rainfall can be enough for established plants in the ground. Bark and wood chip mulch should be pulled back from the crown, and pea gravel, like this one from The Mighty 109 Store via Amazon, is better if the base needs covering.

That doesn’t mean to stop watering altogether. Plants under drought stress tend to handle cold less well, so a final deep soak before a cold snap is worthwhile if you haven’t gotten rain in a while.

Container lavender plants dry out faster and can freeze through, so push a finger an inch (2.5 cm) into the mix to check them, and water if it comes out dry. Pots raised on feet, like Bosmere Pot Toes, drain faster than pots set flat on a hard surface. On the coldest nights, moving pots against a house wall or under a covered porch helps.

Protect Plants from Winter Wind

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Wind is a significant cause of winter damage. Lavender keeps its gray-green foliage all season. On cold, windy days, those leaves lose moisture, and roots in frozen ground can’t replace it. Exposed plants usually brown on the windward side first. Reduce some of that exposure by siting it next to a wall or fence.

A screen is one of the most practical ways to winterize lavender plants in an open yard. Drive several fir wood garden stakes, like these from Walmart, into the ground on the windward side, then stretch a natural jute burlap roll across them. Home Depot sells a 63-inch (160 cm) roll with enough length for a full row. Keep the fabric several inches (8–10 cm) away from the foliage so air can move through. You don’t need to envelop the whole plant. Just use it as a windbreak.

In the coldest zones, a breathable cover placed over plants after the first hard frost adds extra protection. Remove it once spring warms up, though.

Lavender Winterizing Essentials

Valibe Blanket Plant Covers for Freeze Protection

Bosmere Pot Toes Pack of 12

Mighty 109 Grey Pea Gravel 40 lbs

Plants can often look gray and untidy in early spring, but browning in March doesn’t always mean the plant is dead. Knowing how to overwinter lavender includes waiting for visible signs of recovery. Once new green growth appears near the base, cut away any stems that snap rather than bend.

Some flower seeds do far better when sown in fall, so you can simply scatter them onto bare soil now and – hey presto! – they’ll transform into abundant blooms by next year. This is one of nature’s finest magic tricks and you really should take advantage, because there is no easier or cheaper way to fill your yard with blooms than these flower seeds to sow in fall.

All these plants are self-seeders so they don’t need any molly-coddling from you. Sow them in October and all the work is naturally done for you. Some of the seeds require a period of cold – called cold stratification – to germinate; for others, the freeze-thaw cycle cracks tough outer shells. Triggered by warming weather and lengthening days in spring, they’ll sprout at the perfect point, and rain will keep the seedlings watered. Some are even tough enough to sprout in fall and survive winter unscathed.

These seeds all like a little light to germinate, too, so you don’t even have to rake them into the ground. And the reward for your minimal efforts? Bigger, stronger plants than if you’d sown the exact same seeds in spring, for lots more flowers. So, if you're wondering what to sow in October and fancy a garden that almost takes care of itself, start right here. If you’ve already got any of these beauties in your garden, now’s the time to snap off a seedhead and shake it wherever you fancy having more growing, too.

1. Annual Poppies

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Annual corn poppies (Papaver rhoeas) and opium or breadseed poppies (Papaver somniferum) both thrive with a fall sowing and are some of the prettiest plants that practically grow by themselves. They need a period of cold to germinate so you can pop the seed into the fridge for a few weeks – or do it the easy way and let winter work its magic! Scatter the tiny seeds in full sun after the first hard frost in zones 6-9, and you’re done.

Eden Brothers stocks a super selection: Papaver somniferum ‘Lauren’s Grape’ packs a punch with prolific plum-toned flowers, while Papaver rhoeas ‘Amazing Grey’ has crinkly petals in lilac and grey shades, and is much coveted as a cut flower. Or for a lovely addition of color running through a border, ‘Angels Choir Poppy Mix’ is a wonderful mish-mash of warm-hued varieties.

2. Love-in-a-Mist

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Nigella hates having its roots disturbed so is always best direct-sown where you want it to grow, and a fall sowing brings stronger, taller plants that bloom weeks ahead of seeds cast in spring. In zones 7-9, go ahead and scatter seed now as seedlings will endure temperatures down to 23°F (-5°C), or wait till winter is here in zone 6 to ensure spring germination.

For a fall sowing, steer clear of common Nigella damascena unless you have fast-draining soil as the seedlings won’t tolerate sitting in cold wet ground. Instead, choose Nigella papillosa, which is far more robust. Love-in-a-mist ‘Delft Blue’, available from Botanical Interests, has rich violet-blue hues on white petals, reminiscent of the famous blue-and-white pottery it’s named after. Love-in-a-mist ‘African Bride’, also available from Botanical Interests and a similarly tough cookie perfect for fall sowing, is just as beautiful and produces incredible lantern-like seedpods once flowers have faded.

3. Bachelor’s Button

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Cornflowers are one of the easiest of all flowers to sow from a fall scattering in zones 8-10, yet you can pay an absolute fortune for the dried petals to use as herbal tea or confetti. Centaurea cyanus do prefer a little darkness to germinate well, so it’s best to quickly rake over the soil to cover them lightly.

Plain ol’ blue cornflowers, available from Amazon, are beautiful in their own right but if you like to bring flowers inside for vases, then try a tall blend of mixed color bachelor’s buttons, available from Botanical Interests. If sultry colors are more of a border fit for your garden, then ‘Black Magic’ cornflowers, also available from Botanical Interests is a tried and tested favorite.

4. Sweet Alyssum

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Steal a trick from cottage-gardeners and scatter Lobularia maritima seeds in fall in zones 7-11, and a fragrant low carpet of flowers will magically appear in spring. They're such easy flowers to grow from seed and are one of the best flowering groundcover plants, so it's a wonder this quick fall task isn't standard practice in all gardens! Sweet alyssum seeds need light to germinate and young plants cope with repeated light frosts, overwintering as small rosettes, ready to bloom weeks ahead of spring-sown seeds. The sweet honey-like perfume of the flowers is a delightful addition to those first warm days of the year.

‘Royal Carpet’ sweet alyssum, available from Walmart, brings a tapestry of white, lilac and purple flowers, while ‘Sweet White’ sweet alyssum, available from Lowe’s, does exactly what it says on the tin.

5. Purple Coneflower

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Echinacea purpurea are perennials that need a cold period to germinate, so grow well from a fall sowing in zones 3-9. Although purple coneflower seeds benefit from light to sprout, it’s customary to cover them with a light dusting of soil simply to deter birds from snaffling up what is one of their favorite snacks. The other alternative, of course, is just to fling plenty of seeds into your border, and seeds of this native wildflower are cheap to buy, such as this bumper pack of purple coneflower seeds from Amazon.

Wait till after the first frost before sowing in zones 3-4, to guard against premature germination in any unseasonably warm fall weather. In zones 8-9, choose a spot with excellent drainage – a raised bed is ideal – to avoid seeds rotting over winter.

6. California Poppy

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Such is their will to live, you can simply toss the tiny seeds of Eschscholzia californica onto bare earth in zones 8-10 in fall and the seedlings will survive to bloom early next year. Choose a sunny spot to surface-sow your California poppy seeds and let fall rain do the rest.

Take a look at Eden Brothers’ California poppy range for inspiration. As well as the classic orange of California’s state flower, there are all sorts of varieties such as Thai Silk Pink Champagne California poppy and Appleblossom Chiffon California poppy with petals as fabulous as their names suggest.

7. Bells of Ireland

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As they need both light and a period of cold to germinate, you can steal a head start on growing Bells of Ireland (Moluccella laevis) in zones 6-9 with a fall sowing. Their tough seeds will sit dormant through the winter cold, then germinate as soon as it’s warm enough in spring. In zones 8 and warmer, go ahead and sow now; in colder zones though, wait till right after your first frost before sowing, so seeds don’t sprout prematurely.

These stately spires of flowers are a must for any garden, growing to a neat 2-3 feet tall and adding unusual texture as well as a fresh pop of green. The flowers last well in a vase so these are a fabulous addition to bouquets, if you like to grow cut flowers from seed for blooms all summer long. For a reliable fall sowing, bells of Ireland seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

8. Columbine

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Aquilegia benefit from winter stratification and they need light to germinate, making them one of the best flower seeds to sow in fall in zones 3-9. These direct-sow seeds also appreciate starting life out where they will grow. You’ll need to be a little patient, however, as columbine is a perennial that spends its first year concentrating on roots and pretty foliage, but boy, is the yearly spring show of flowers after that worth the wait. Fling and forget columbine seeds this October and be surprised by the flurry of cottage-garden blooms in their second year.

There’s a huge range of columbines to choose from, from the dainty blue Aquilegia caerulea, available from Amazon, to the mighty Aquilegia cultorum columbines, stocked by Botanical Interests, bred for their large flowers and color variety. In zones 8-9 with mild winters, toss the seed packet in your fridge for a couple of weeks before sowing, to make sure they get the cold they need to sprout.

Tips for a Successful Fall Sowing

All these seeds naturally self-seed so all you need do is mimic nature and plants will grow well from a fall sowing with minimum intervention. A few simple prep steps, however, will help to ensure good germination.

• If you can, rake the soil before sowing to break up any clumps and form a fine ‘tilth’. This ensures seeds have good contact with the soil and makes it easy for young roots to penetrate the ground.
• Water the soil before sowing if it hasn’t rained recently. Sowing onto moist soil means there’s no need to water straight after sowing, which can wash small seeds away.
• Read the sowing instructions on the seed packet carefully to see exactly how much light the seeds need to germinate. All these seeds will germinate from a surface sowing but some will benefit from being lightly raked into the soil.
• Some seed is so tiny that it’s very hard to see where you’ve sown. Mix seed with fine sand first, so you can see where it's landed so spread it more evenly.

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There's no easier or cheaper way to fill borders with blooms than to scatter these seeds in fall, then look forward to flowers popping up here, there and everywhere. Once you've got these self-reliant beauties growing in your yard, you can easily collect seeds to distribute around your garden for yet more blooms, too.

Add in flower seeds to fling and forget in spring and you have yourself a garden full of flowers that practically grow themselves.

Everybody who likes weeding, stand up! Of course, not a soul rises to their feet. Pulling out weeds is one of our least favorite garden tasks in spring. That’s why I have compiled my best tricks and tips to stop those weeds from appearing.

Fall is the optimal moment to take action for weed control. That’s because those nasty perennial weeds use fall as feeding season, taking up nutrients from the soil and moving carbohydrates produced by photosynthesis to the roots for winter storage. Any herbicides applied in fall travel with the carbohydrates to the roots, killing the entire plant.

The key to getting weed control measures in place in autumn is finding simple tasks that are super effective. That way you aren’t likely to avoid them. But we promise, every one of these steps that you take will make a real dent in the number of weeds that you see in spring.

1. Stop Weeds From Spreading by Deadheading Them

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Generally, gardeners use the term deadheading to mean removing spent flowers from your desirable, cultivated plants. The idea is to prevent the plants from investing energy in seeds and propagation instead of new flower buds. This type of fall deadheading does not reduce weeds.

On the other hand, deadheading invasive weeds can prevent them from spreading. Take a look around your garden. If you see that weeds in the garden have gone to seed, snip off those seed heads in autumn. That way, the seeds cannot scatter in the wind.

Use clean, sharp bypass pruners, such as the ever-popular Felco F2 Classic Hand Pruners available on Amazon, to cut off the flower heads before they fully mature, then collect and dispose of them in the trash rather than adding them to your compost pile if they contain viable seed.

2. Treat Perennial Weeds in Early Fall

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Chemicals should always be a last resort in the garden. But if you decide they're necessary, early fall is often the best time to treat established perennial weeds with a post-emergence weed killer. At this time of year, only the above-ground foliage dies back. As the plant moves sugars and stored energy into its roots to survive the winter, systemic herbicides can also move into the root system, making treatments more effective and potentially reducing the number of applications needed.

Apply a weed killer before persistent perennial weeds such as dandelions, creeping Charlie, Canada thistle, or broadleaf plantain take over. These weeds return year after year from the same root system, so simply removing the foliage rarely gets rid of them for good.

If you prefer to avoid glyphosate, consider a product such as Bonide Captain Jack's Deadweed Brew, available from Amazon. Approved for organic gardening, it's a fast-acting, non-selective weed killer that's suitable for use around flower and vegetable gardens. Because it's a contact herbicide rather than a systemic one, established perennial weeds may require repeat applications to exhaust the roots. Always read and follow the label directions carefully.

3. Pull Young Annual Weeds Before They Take Hold

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Some gardeners prefer to avoid chemical weed killers altogether, and if you're one of them, you can still get ahead of annual weeds such as henbit, deadnettle, and common chickweed. Winter annuals germinate from seed in the fall and spend the winter as small seedlings. Watch for them to emerge in October, then pull them out, roots and all.

Plants are always easiest to remove when they're young. You can lightly rake seedlings out, but hand pulling is often just as quick. A hand weeding tool, such as the CobraHead Original Weeder & Cultivator, makes it easier to loosen the soil around the roots so you can lift the entire plant without it snapping off. Take care not to disturb the soil surface too much, as that can bring buried weed seeds to the surface, where they're more likely to germinate.

4. Plant Cover Crops

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Cover crops occupy territory that weeds would have liked to take over. They are very efficient at suppressing weeds by creating a dense canopy that keeps weed seeds in the dark. Fall cover crops like cereal rye and oats compete for sunlight, moisture, and nutrients, leaving little to support winter annual weeds from germinating.

Other top fall cover crops for weed suppression include crimson clover, which forms a thick carpet of foliage; hairy vetch, a winter-hardy annual legume that blankets the soil; and forage radish, which quickly shades the soil. If you're sowing a new cover crop this fall, Eden Brothers also stocks crimson clover, as well as an organic cover crop seed mix.

5. Mulch Bare Soil

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Organic mulch like homemade compost or chopped, fallen leaves helps the garden in so many ways. The mulch layer holds in moisture and helps regulate the soil temperature. But that's not all.

When you cover bare soil with a 2–3 inch (5–7.5 cm) layer of mulch, it blocks sunlight, making it much harder for dormant weed seeds to germinate. If you don't have enough leaves or homemade compost, a natural wood mulch, such as Hyponex by Scotts Brown Mulch from Walmart, is an easy way to cover exposed soil before winter.

6. Do a Thorough Fall Garden Cleanup

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A general fall clean-up is a garden tradition, and this habit can help you prevent weeds. Take out all debris from your garden beds as well as your vegetable gardens. It’s a good time to notice which weeds you are dealing with in your landscape. That will help you plan your weed attack.

For example, if crabgrass is everywhere in fall, you might plan to use a pre-emergence herbicide again in the spring. This will take out the crabgrass seed before it germinates in your garden.

Fall Weeding Essentials

Bonide Captain Jack's Deadweed Brew

Cobrahead Original Weeder & Cultivator

Grampa's Weeder Original Stand Up Weed Puller Tool

What NOT to Do in Fall

Do not work the soil in autumn. Tilling the soil is what you do when you want to encourage seeds to grow. You don’t want weed seeds to grow in fall, so just don’t turn or till the soil, certainly not deeply. Add the mulch, then leave the soil alone.

As October arrives and fall weather settles in, your focus may naturally shift towards fall cleanup and preparing the yard for winter. While spring clean-up may get more attention, October tasks are just as vital for maintaining healthy, robust shrubs. This is especially true for garden workhorses like hydrangeas. The care they receive during these crisp, shifting fall weeks can directly determine performance next year.

Hydrangea care in October is a happy mix of strategic actions, requiring as many "don’ts" as "do’s" for safeguarding plant health. Knowing what yours needs before the cold weather settles in will help shield vulnerable roots and protect stems from frost damage. Thankfully, completing these essential fall maintenance steps takes very little time, while paying massive dividends when the warmer weather returns.

Taking time to care for your hydrangeas now ensures they emerge from winter dormancy in peak condition. Whether you grow bigleaf mopheads, lacecaps, cold-hardy panicles, or dramatic oakleaf hydrangeas, these easycare steps can protect your shrubs, safeguard dormant buds, and guarantee a breathtaking, bloom-filled display next summer.

Helping Hydrangeas in October

Preparing hydrangeas for winter now requires a clear understanding of how soil, moisture, and light conditions change as daylight shortens. While fall rain can often reduce the need for daily watering, you still need to make sure that your shrubs enter winter with adequately moist soil. Cold, icy winds can dehydrate plant tissue, and well-hydrated roots withstand freeze-thaw cycles far better than they do when dry. So continue watering deeply during dry spells until the ground freezes.

What you do in October will depend on which type of hydrangea you are growing. Panicle (H. paniculata) and smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas bloom on new wood produced in spring, making them very cold-hardy and forgiving. Conversely, bigleaf (H. macrophylla), mountain (H. serrata), and oakleaf (H. quercifolia) types set their flower buds on old wood in late summer. For these old-wood bloomers, it’s important to protect overwintering stems and terminal buds from harsh frosts.

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Regional climate variations will also have some bearing. In northern regions (USDA zones 3-5), it’s important to prioritize root insulation and wind protection before hard freezes set in. Sprinkling a handful of Espoma Organic Bio-Tone Starter Plus, available from Walmart, around the base of your hydrangeas can strengthen roots ahead of winter. In the south (zones 7-9), it’s best to focus on gentle soil conditioning and light debris removal Here’s what you need to do this month to get your hydrangea ready for even bigger blooming displays next year…

1. Halt All Fertilizer Applications

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Start your October hydrangea checklist with the easiest task of all: a complete hold on fertilizing. If you have been applying monthly fertilizer to boost foliage and flower size, now is the time to stop. Simply resist the urge to feed your hydrangeas as the weather cools. This pause is vital for health. The purpose of feeding is to encourage new shoots and foliage. But any tender new branches produced now will die in the winter weather, leaving the plant vulnerable to stem dieback and fungal infections.

This rule applies to all hydrangea types, whether old-wood mopheads or new-wood panicles. Ceasing fertilizer allows the shrub to shift its energy into natural dormancy, hardening its bark and storing carbohydrate reserves in its root system. Instead of feeding foliage now, top-dress the soil with a clean organic amendment like kelp meal to quietly support root health without forcing unwanted top growth. Down to Earth Organic Kelp Meal, available from Amazon, gives soil health a natural boost. This potassium-rich seaweed meal improves cold hardiness.

2. Rake Up and Clear Fallen Debris

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Falling tree leaves blanket garden beds, while hydrangeas begin dropping their own yellowing foliage. A scattered layer may seem harmless, but thick mats of soggy plant debris beneath your hydrangeas can create disease and pest issues. Common fungal diseases like leaf spot, powdery mildew, and botrytis blight produce spores that survive in damp, decaying leaf litter. When spring rains arrive, these spores splash back up onto emerging shoots, re-infecting the shrub before it finishes leafing out. Clearing fallen leaf litter is a key defense against overwintering pathogens.

Oakleaf and bigleaf hydrangeas are especially susceptible to leaf spot. Use a light hand rake or leaf claw to clear away spent foliage. The excellent compact Gardena Combisystem Hand Rake from Amazon is perfect for clearing debris around delicate shrub bases without damaging stems. Place diseased leaves straight into popup garden waste bags rather than your home compost heap. Collapsible options like the Fiskars Kangaroo 10-Gallon Collapsible Vinyl Garden Bags from Walmart are really durable and make gathering and transporting soggy leaves effortless.

3. Apply a Protective Layer of Organic Mulch

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Applying a fresh blanket of organic mulch is one of the most effective ways to shield hydrangeas from winter weather. Mulching keeps soil cool on hot days in fall and warm on cooler days in winter. It also holds moisture into the soil and stops weeds appearing. Choose high-quality organic mulches, such as shredded hardwood, bark chips, pine straw, or well-rotted leaf mold. You can buy Back to the Roots Organic Premium Bark Mulch from The Home Depot. This chemical-free hardwood mulch insulates shallow roots against hard freezes. Organic materials gradually break down, enriching the surrounding soil.

In moderate climates (zones 7-9), a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) layer provides ideal protection. If you live in a cold northern climate (zones 3-6), double the thickness to 4-5 inches (10-12cm). Always pull mulch 2-3 inches (5-8cm) away from the main stems, creating a donut shape around the base. Stacking mulch directly invites stem rot and provides mice or voles with a sheltered spot to chew on tender bark. If your region gets truly cold in winter, double the mulch layer. You can also add some Espoma Natural Mushroom Blend, available from Walmart, which is ideal for layering beneath mulch to enrich tired fall soil.

4. Deadhead Selectively Based on Habit

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Deciding whether to snip off faded flowerheads in October depends on which type of hydrangea you grow, as well as your personal taste. Dried hydrangea blooms can fade into gorgeous antique parchment tones, offering striking textural beauty. Some hydrangea varieties bloom on new growth, some bloom on old growth.

For hydrangeas that bloom on new wood, such as smooth hydrangeas like Annabelle and panicle hydrangeas like Limelight, you can deadhead spent flower clusters in early October. This can prevent snow and ice from accumulating, which can cause brittle stems to bend or snap. Snip the stem just below the spent cluster, using pruning snips like highly rated Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon. However, don’t do this in late October, as it can make the hydrangea vulnerable to winter damage.

If you grow old-wood bloomers like bigleaf mopheads, lacecaps, or oakleaf, it is too late to deadhead. These varieties set their winter flower buds directly below the existing blooms in late summer. So deadheading in October risks cutting off next summer’s flowers. If in doubt, leave the dried blooms intact through winter: they serve as natural protective caps shielding the fragile top buds from icy winds. Come spring, you can snip off any of the old hydrangea flowers that overwinter.

5. Prune Lightly or Postpone Until Spring

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Pruning is another October task that only applies to hydrangeas that bloom on new wood. So take care, because pruning hydrangeas unnecessarily now can eliminate next season’s flower display. If you grow old-wood varieties like bigleaf or oakleaf hydrangeas, do not prune in October. To do so is to remove the buds that produce those fabulous blooms. Major structural pruning should be put on hold until early spring when shrubs are fully dormant. Limit any cuts strictly to removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches (otherwise known as the 3Ds).

If you grow new-wood types like panicles or smooth hydrangeas, you can perform light shaping once foliage drops. However, even with these tough cultivars, hard pruning is best delayed until late winter. Lightly trim crossing stems or awkward branches using bypass pruners, cutting at a 45-degree angle. If you want the best of the best, Felco 2 Classic Bypass Pruners from Amazon slice cleanly through thicker branches and come with a lifetime guarantee. Clean blades with isopropyl alcohol or diluted neem to prevent cross-contamination. If in doubt, this doesn’t have to be done now. You can put it off until late winter if you prefer.

6. Protect and Relocate Potted Hydrangeas

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There is another big distinction between key hydrangeas. Yes, some bud on old wood and some on new. But an even more basic difference is where they were planted. Hydrangeas in the ground are fairly cold hardy, and most can survive winter’s worst within their growing zones. But container-based hydrangeas are more vulnerable to freezing temperatures that can crack pottery and freeze root balls solid.

October is your chance to prepare potted hydrangeas for winterizing before severe cold snaps hit. In milder areas (zones 7-8), group pots together against a sheltered house wall or unheated porch, wrapping the pots in burlap to protect roots. In colder northern regions (zones 3-6), they should be moved into an unheated garage or shed once the plant drops its leaves and starts to enter dormancy. This is to keep roots safe from drying, icy winds. For heavier containers, use caddies to relocate your hydrangeas, such as Parsagi’s 20-Inch Metal Plant Caddies from Amazon.

Water dormant potted hydrangeas sparingly (about once a month), just enough to keep the root ball from drying out. Blending in a handful of perlite or coarse sand can help to maintain optimal drainage. Adding a little Plantonix Perlite Bliss Premium from Walmart to potting mixes help to maintain hydrangea health through winter.

Shop Hydrangea Essentials

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Now you have your October action plan, you just need a few key items to help see your shrubs through the colder months. To help your hydrangeas thrive and emerge strong in spring, make a little room in your shed for these essential container buddies, tools, and soil amendments, to keep your maintenance tasks stress-free.

Hydrangea Care Trio

Root Boost

Espoma Espoma Organic Bio-Tone Starter Plus Plant Food

This premium starter fertilizer strengthens roots without forcing tender new leaf growth. It’s a lovely organic blend for conditioning soil around newly planted or transplanted hydrangeas before the ground freezes.

Container Carrier

Bloem Bloem 14 Inch Terracotta Plant Caddy, 100 Lb

If you need a rugged, weather-resistant rolling planter base to convey heavy ceramic and terracotta pots, this carrier makes the transition smooth and takes the backbreak out of moving potted hydrangeas into winter shelter.

Garden Tidy

Fiskars Fiskars Kangaroo 10 Gallon Vinyl Collapsible Garden Bag

These bags are worth their weight in gold and can be used over and over in fall. These durable garden buddies make collecting damp leaf litter effortless, and can be stored flat in your shed or garage when cleanup is finished.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

A very strong El Niño could make this a challenging winter for gardens across parts of the US. Repeated rain, cold snaps, and sudden changes in temperature can be especially hard on plants that need sharp drainage, so these seven are worth watching before winter sets in.

Forecasters are calling for a very strong El Niño this winter. NOAA puts the odds above 90%, and its outlook points to wetter-than-normal conditions across much of the southern and central US, California, parts of the Great Plains, and the Atlantic coast. Temperatures may vary by region, with the northern US generally expected to be warmer than normal and the Southeast potentially seeing cooler spells.

Most talk about plants for extreme weather centers on heat and drought. But a cold, wet winter is its own kind of stress – especially when soil stays saturated for weeks. Roots can’t get enough oxygen, while water molds such as Phytophthora and Pythium may trigger root rot. Freezes and thaws can then heave shallow-rooted plants out of the ground.

These seven plants tend to have the hardest time when winter soil stays cold and soggy. Most of the fixes come down to drainage, mulch and timing. Nearly all of them can be done this fall.

1. Lavender

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Lavender handles cold a lot better than it handles cold and wet at the same time. Soggy, cold soil is one of the most common reasons lavender dies, since the plant is native to dry, rocky Mediterranean hillsides, where rain drains away fast.

Don't mulch lavender with wood chips or straw. Both hold moisture against the crown – a thin layer of gravel works better, like this attractive mixed pebble bag from Amazon. Stop watering once the rain sets in, and skip fall pruning so the plant isn't pushing out soft new growth right before a freeze.

Potted lavender can go under an eave or porch roof where rain won't keep soaking the pot.

2. Hens and Chicks

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Hens and chicks (Sempervivum spp.) and hardy sedums can take a lot of cold, and many of them are hardy well into the North. Wet soil is another story. The rosettes tend to rot from the base up when water sits around them for days, so a mulch of gravel or grit that keeps them up off the soil helps a lot.

Potted succulents should come out of their saucers for the winter. Setting pots on Bosmere Store's Pot Toes lifts them off the patio, so water runs out the bottom instead of pooling underneath.

3. Agave

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Many agaves can ride out a frost when their soil is dry, which is why some of them grow in desert areas that still see freezing nights. Cold and wet together is what tends to hurt them. A rainy winter can leave water sitting in the center of the rosette and in the soil around the roots, so agaves do best on a slope, a berm or a raised bed where rain drains away fast.

If a hard freeze shows up in the forecast, cover the plant – Walmart sells a DeWitt heavy-duty frost blanket that can be cut to size. Take the cover off once the freeze passes.

4. Garlic

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Fall-planted garlic spends the whole winter in the ground. A bed that stays waterlogged for weeks can rot cloves before they ever send up a shoot, and cool, wet soil also suits white rot (Sclerotium cepivorum) if it's already in your garden.

Plant garlic in a raised bed or in rows mounded a few inches above the path. Add mulch once the soil has cooled down. Home Depot carries USA long leaf pine straw in bags, and a layer 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) deep helps even out soil temperature so freeze-thaw swings are less likely to heave the cloves up.

5. Tulips

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Tulip bulbs rot easily in soil that stays wet. A long, rainy winter gives rot plenty of time to set in, and tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae) spreads more in cool, wet weather too.

Plant tulips in the best-drained spot you have, about 6–8 inches (15–20cm) deep, and don't water them after planting if the rain is already doing the job.

Beds that stay soggy are a bad bet. Containers or raised beds are safer, and hyacinths and other fall-planted bulbs need the same kind of drainage.

6. Coral Bells

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Coral bells (Heuchera spp.) have shallow roots and a crown that sits right at the soil line, and that makes them one of the plants most often pushed out of the ground by frost heaving. Each freeze and thaw lifts the crown a little higher. The roots can end up exposed to cold air and drying wind.

Spread 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of mulch around the plants after the first frost, keeping it pulled back from the crown itself, and check them after each thaw so any heaved plants can be pressed back down into the soil. Heavy, wet clay can also rot the crown. Mix in compost before planting new ones.

7. Strawberries

Strawberries can get hit from two sides in a cold, wet winter. Waterlogged soil favors root diseases like red stele (Phytophthora fragariae). Freeze-thaw cycles are the other threat – they can heave plants up and leave the roots exposed to dry out.

Raised beds help with the first problem. For the second, spread a loose layer of straw or pine straw 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) deep over the plants once they've been through a couple of light frosts, then pull it back in spring once new growth starts.

Winter Survival Essentials

Bosmere Pot Toes

Dewitt Ultimate Plant Winter Blanket

Yiszm 2lb Gravel Pebbles

Forecasts can miss. Even a strong El Niño won't bring the same winter to every yard, but gravel, mulch and better drainage don't cost much, and I'd rather have my lavender ready for a soggy winter that never shows up than lose it to one that does.

Many shade-tolerant plants focus their energy on spring or summer blooms, fading by early autumn and leaving shady corners looking dark, tired, and a little sad. However, heading into the cooler months does not mean you have to settle for dull, uninspired beds. To keep your shady borders vibrant, luminous, and full of life past the summer fade and well into fall, you just need the right mix of shade superstars, specifically those that flower late in the season or offer dramatic foliage color shifts.

When designing a fall shade garden for perennials, keep in mind that light levels vary significantly across shady spaces. You could be dealing with deep shade beneath dense tree canopies, dappled sunlight or partial afternoon shade. Matching each plant's light preferences to your specific yard conditions is the secret to achieving long-lasting fall sparkle with these key late season all-stars.

By combining texture, contrasting leaf forms, and cold-hardy blooms, your shaded spaces can become some of the most captivating features of your late-season landscape. To get you started on transforming your quiet, shadowy nooks this fall, here are some of my picks for outstanding shade-friendly perennials that deliver spectacular late-season color.

Choosing Shade-Friendly Plants

If you have a tricky, low-light space, you might think you need to focus on spring bulbs and early summer perennials, perhaps feeling you need to give up on shade beds once fall arrives. Yet these cool, sheltered areas can easily accommodate some of the shining stars of your fall display, as long as you select plants built that thrive in lower light. Choosing late-blooming shade plant species and striking foliage perennials will ensure your shade beds maintain exceptional color, depth, and lightness from late summer through to the first hard winter frost.

Preparing shade beds for fall requires a little thoughtful soil care. Tree roots, falling leaf litter, and cooler temperatures mean soil moisture levels can fluctuate. Before planting, enrich tired shade soil with organic amendments to improve texture and microbial activity. Working in some ready-made organic compost or earthworm castings can replenish nutrients depleted by summer growth. Another great soil treatment is mushroom compost. You can get lush ready-made bags of Espoma Natural Mushroom Blend Fertilizer, available from Walmart, to replenish tired beds.

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Blending in perlite or coarse sand guarantees vital drainage. Add some high grade perlite such as Plantonix Perlite Bliss Premium from Walmart to ensure sharp drainage around young perennial roots. This airy well-draining blend gives roots room to breathe and helps prevent rots during wet weather. However, while watering needs to shift in fall, don’t stop watering altogether. While shade beds take longer to dry out as temperatures drop, shallow root systems still need moisture to establish before freezing weather arrives.

Elevate potted arrangements with pot feet. It’s also a good idea to topdress garden beds with a layer of organic mulch to regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and help protect crowns from frost damage. In colder northern zones (USDA zones 3-5), focus on deep mulching. In warmer southern regions (zones 8-9), positioning shade lovers where they receive protection from intense late-afternoon sun helps blooms last longer into winter. Once you have priming the ground, you’re ready for the following shade-friendly fall foliage plants and late bloomers.

1. Japanese Anemone

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Japanese anemone (Anemone × hybrida) is an exceptional choice for filling in shady spaces just as a lot of other summer blooms are fading. Standing on tall, elegant stems, these resilient perennials produce delicate white or soft pink blooms that sway gracefully in the breeze, adding airy, luminous texture to low-light borders. Depending on the cultivar, anemones bloom reliably from late summer through fall. Buy a pretty pink Curtain Call Pink Japanese Anemone Plant by Proven Winners from Nature Hills for strength and elegance combined.

These fall superstars thrive best in partial shade in zones 4-8, making them ideal for the edges of shade beds or eastern-facing borders where they receive gentle morning sun. They demand moist, humus-rich soil that drains freely and plenty of breathing room when planting them. While they can take a season to establish, they will spread via underground runners to form sweeping drifts. Pair them alongside dark heuchera or hostas for stunning contrast, and mulch in fall to insulate roots.

2. Toad Lily

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When most traditional shade perennials are winding down for the season, toad lily steps into the spotlight with an unforgettable late-season flowering display. Blooming from late summer into mid-fall, this unique perennial produces intricate, star-shaped and speckled flowers in shades of purple, pink, and white. These resemble exotic miniature orchids perched along arching, leafy stems. You can buy Emerald Goddess Garden Store Toad Lily Live Plants from Amazon if you hurry.

Toad lilies (Tricyrtis hirta) are ideal for the front edges of shady pathways, raised beds, shade bed edges, or patio borders where their detailed, intricate blooms can be admired close-up. They prefer partial to light dappled shade in zones 4-8, as a touch of soft morning sunlight encourages maximum flower production. Consistent soil moisture is a must for toad lilies. Plant them in rich, loamy soil amended with leaf mold or compost to retain moisture while ensuring good drainage. Keep them sheltered from harsh winds, and don't let fallen leaves bury their basal rosettes.

3. Bugbane

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For gardeners seeking dramatic height and native charm, bugbane (also known as black cohosh or baneberry) delivers a striking vertical element for fall shade gardens. Reaching heights of 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8m), this fine perennial sends up fragrant, bottle-brush wands of tiny white or pale lavender flowers from late summer into autumn, often towering above deep purple or bronze-cast foliage. Try Pink Spike Bugbane from Plant Addicts, for pale pink flowering wands and rich purple foliage.

Unlike many flowering perennials, bugbane (Actaea racemosa syn. Cimicifuga racemosa) can thrive in full shade as well as partial shade in zones 3-8, making it invaluable as a background anchor behind shorter shade plants like hostas or ferns. It prefers deep, rich, moisture-retentive soil in a spot protected from sweeping gusts. Give plants ample room to expand, spacing at least 2-3 feet (60-90cm) apart. Don't let the soil dry out during dry spells, as drought stress causes lower foliage to drop.

4. Blue Leadwood (Plumbago)

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Blue leadwood (commonly called plumbago) delivers late-season flowers and intense foliage tones in one compact, low-growing package. Growing just 8-12 inches (20-30cm) tall, this spreading groundcover (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) produces electric blue flowers from midsummer to the first freeze. As temperatures drop, its leaves shift to bronze, burgundy, and crimson. Buy Blue Plumbago Plants from Nature Hills at a bargain price for gleaming blooms in the shade.

This versatile performer excels in partial shade in zones 5-9, particularly in spots receiving morning sun and dappled afternoon shade. It is ideal for edging beds, cascading over stone retaining walls, or planting beneath high-canopy shrubs and trees. Plumbago tolerates drought once fully established, but soggy winter soil will lead to root loss. Plant in well-draining soil, and pair with white Japanese anemones for an arresting contrast. Don't panic if it emerges late: this is a slow starter that often saves its best energy for a dazzling late-fall finale.

5. Heuchera (Coral Bells)

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While coral bells (Heuchera spp.) flower during spring and early summer, their foliage steals the show during fall and winter. Available in an array of leaf colors, from warm caramel, copper, and fiery orange to chocolate-brown, lime-gold, and purple-black, heuchera bring continuous, non-fading sparkle to shady borders. You can buy Daylily Nursery's rich purple Berry Smoothie Heuchera Plants from Walmart as 3-inch (8cm) plugs that add instant lush plummy color.

Coral bells thrive in partial shade in zones 4-9, forming compact clumps 12-18 inches (30-45cm) wide that make ideal border edgings or container fillers. Weave different varieties together, or pair plum-leaved cultivars alongside Japanese forest grass. Good drainage is a must, so amend heavy clay soils with perlite, fine gravel, or organic compost. In northern zones, frost-heaving can lift crowns above soil level. Topdress with a layer of organic mulch in late fall, but don't bury the central crown.

6. Japanese Forest Grass

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Adding varying texture is essential for bringing energy to low-light spaces. Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) brings unrivaled fluid movement to shade beds. Unlike most sun-loving ornamental grasses, this elegant perennial thrives in shade, forming cascading mounds of slender ribbon foliage. Buy Plants That Work All Gold Japanese Forest Grass from Nature Hills for natural flowing luminescence.

Color cultivars offer great seasonal versatility. Golden varieties like Aureola brighten dark corners in summer, while autumn-shifting cultivars like Nicolas turn copper, orange, and golden-red as night temperatures cool. Plant along shady pathways, raised beds, or container edges where its weeping stems can spill freely. This perennial prefers rich, moist, well-draining soil in dappled or partial shade in zones 5-9, as harsh afternoon sun will scorch leaf tips. Don't cut back foliage in fall: leave the dried, copper leaves intact to provide graceful winter structure.

7. Variegated Solomon’s Seal

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Variegated Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum var. pluriflorum 'Variegatum') is a tough, graceful perennial that thrives in dry, deep shade where other plants struggle. While its sweet, bell-shaped flowers appear in spring, it’s the foliage that brightens shady beds through fall. Arching stems lined with soft green leaves edged in crisp white turn a luminous butter-yellow in autumn. Buy Direct Gardening’s Solomon’s Seal Plants from Walmart for gleaming goodness in the shade.

Growing 2-3 feet (60-90cm) tall, Solomon’s seal slowly spreads via rhizomes to form sweeping colonies under mature shade trees or along woodland slopes, where other plants struggle. It tolerates deep shade to partial shade, making it a reliable choice for north-facing building walls or dense tree canopies in zones 3-8. Soil should be rich, moist, and loamy, though established plants can tolerate dry shade and occasional dampness. Combine it with low groundcovers like blue leadwood or dark heuchera, for multi-layered height and color contrast.

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Early fall is make or break for a lawn: prep grass for success and it will get busy growing strong roots ready for a lush summer sward. Forgo October lawn care, however, and you can look forward to another year of bare patches and weeds. It’s easy to think of your lawn as an outdoor carpet but this is a rug you grow, and grass is no different from any other plant, so a little pre-winter lawn care will reap big rewards next year.

In October, the right lawn care tasks to undertake depends on what turfgrass you grow. If your lawn is made up of cool-season grasses such as fescue, bluegrass or ryegrass, it will keep growing through fall, building deep roots before winter dormancy. If your lawn is a warm-season turfgrass like Bermuda, St Augustine or zoysia, October is the month grass starts to go dormant with growth slowing down, giving weeds an opportunity to take hold.

You don't have to find time to get all these fall lawn care tasks done, but do some and you can look forward to lush results. It's been a tough year for all our lawns, so here's your opportunity to revive and repair grass after summer heat.

1. Aerate the Ground

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If you only do one fall lawn-care job, make it aerating your lawn. Punching hundreds of tiny holes into your lawn will help grass recover from the hot, dry summer, allowing essential moisture and oxygen into the soil to fuel root growth. While you can simply push the tines of a garden fork into the ground to aerate lawn soil, the quick and easy way to aerate your lawn is with a rotary lawn aerator such as this Heavy Duty Rolling Lawn Aerator from Walmart.

Lawn aeration will also improve the soil structure for better drainage and fewer soggy patches of waterlogged ground through fall and winter.

2. Fill In Bare Spots in Cool-Season Lawns

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In many parts of the country, October brings warm soil and and cool air, which is the perfect combination for grass seed germination. If your cool-season turfgrass has suffered from foot traffic, dog play or drought this summer, now is an ideal time to repair bare patches in a lawn. And if you've just aerated your lawn, then all those tiny pinholes will help seed germinate fast, too.

First, it's wise to do a five-minute test to check grub worms aren't behind any bare patches of lawn. Then loosen up the topsoil with a rake and spread a seed product such as this Tall Fescue Lawn Repair Mix from Lowe's. Water, then continue watering to keep the soil moist until the new grass is growing well.

If the entire lawn looks spotty, October is also a good moment to overseed your lawn, adding new seed to the turfgrass to create a thicker, lusher sward. First, mow the grass shorter than you normally would, then choose a suitable seed and apply with a broadcast spreader to get an even coverage. There's no need to fork out for a push-along spreader to overseed an average-sized lawn as a cheap hand-powered spreader like this Scotts Whirl Spreader from Walmart does the job just fine. Again, keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate and grass is established.

3. Fertilize Cool-Season Grass for Strong Roots

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Cool-season turfgrass is still actively growing in fall, allowing you to fertilize a lawn in fall. This input of energy helps grass to recover from summer stress and stocks up reserves in the roots that plants will use all winter long. If you overseeded, do check first that the seed product used didn't already have fertilizer included, as many do.

Choose a fertilizer that's purposely made for fall application and prioritizes strong root growth such as Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard Fall Lawn Food, available from Amazon. With a low nitrogen content, it won't cause a surge in blade growth with winter just around the corner, but has potassium to strengthen roots and make the grass more cold hardy. Follow the packet instructions carefully and don't be tempted to over-fertilize. Timing it just before a good rain shower will save you having to water it in.

4. Mulch Fallen Leaves Instead of Raking

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Regardless of the type of grass you have, lightly mulching a lawn with fall leaves is another way to add nutrients to the ground, and it'll save you the job of raking them up. Run the lawn mower over fallen leaves a few times until they're cut into small pieces about the size of dimes then leave 'em lie. They'll slowly break down over winter to feed the soil.

It's important not to smother grass with leaf mulch because this chokes out the grass and invites disease, so only ever create a light scattering and rake out any clumps so air and water can still get down to the grass.

5. Banish Weeds from Warm-Season Grasses

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There's a short window in the first half of October for keeping winter weeds out of warm-season grass, when you can spread a pre-emergent herbicide such as BioAdvanced All-In-One Lawn Weed Crabgrass Killer, available from Lowe's. Check the weather forecast to choose a time without prolonged rain that may wash away some of the product.

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Take care of these October lawn tasks and you'll prep the grass for a great season of growth next year. Just doing one job will make a big difference – and if you do all five, then you can look forward to having the lawn of your dreams next summer.

Burning bush is one of those plants that, on paper, seems hard to criticize. For years, gardeners have planted this deciduous shrub specifically for that moment in fall when its green leaves suddenly turn an almost impossibly vivid crimson.

It makes for a spectacular show, just as its name would suggest, and it's very easy to see why it's so popular. But there's a problem; burning bush (Euonymus alatus) is native to Asia and has become invasive in many parts of the US, as its seeds can be spread by birds, allowing the shrub to escape gardens and establish in natural areas, where it can compete with native vegetation.

So if you're thinking about adding one to your garden this fall, I'd pause before reaching for your wallet. Instead, there's another native shrub I'd much rather plant.

A Great Burning Bush Alternative

Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) might not have quite the same name recognition as burning bush, but it deserves a place on your fall planting list. This deciduous shrub is native to the eastern US, with glossy green foliage that can turn rich shades of red, orange, purple and maroon in the fall.

It's long been praised as a wildlife garden must, as it provides cover and nesting habitat for birds, not to mention supports bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Better still, it produces fragrant white flower spikes in early summer even before all of that attractive fall foliage, adding some serious multi-season interest to the mix.

Now, that being said, not every Virginia sweetspire will necessarily produce exactly the same fall color. Growing conditions, climate and the individual plant can all influence the intensity and duration of the display, which means those who want all of that same burning bush-flavored glory ought to opt for the cultivar 'Henry's Garnet' (available to buy here from Nature Hills).

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Now, you don't necessarily need 'Henry's Garnet' to enjoy Virginia sweetspire (although this Little Henry® Virginia Sweetspire from Nature Hills is a pretty sweet option for those with small gardens). Still, if gorgeous fall color is one of your main reasons for making the swap from burning bush, it's certainly worth seeking out, as is this stunning Fountains Of Rouge™ Virginia Sweetspire option.

I know, I know; I feel like I'm raining on a lot of people's parades by shaking my head over burning bush, and I'm not going to pretend it isn't beautiful. Honestly, if you've ever seen a mature specimen glowing red in the October sunshine, you'll understand the appeal immediately.

Still, beautiful doesn't necessarily mean appropriate for every garden, and several states have actually restricted or banned its use in landscaping. So if you're standing in a garden center this fall admiring a burning bush, I'd take a moment before putting it in your cart.

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Virginia sweetspire is not an identical replacement for burning bush, of course, but it does something that is arguably better: fragrant summer flowers, beautiful autumn foliage, habitat for wildlife, and a shrub that earns its place in the landscape for more than one spectacular season.

You can't argue with that now, can you?

Sun loving, drought tolerant and cold hardy: hydrangeas have spiked in popularity, especially with so many new and remarkable varieties now available. There are so many, even the professionals are having trouble keeping up.

I think one of the nicest features of H. paniculata grandiflora, or PeeGee, hydrangeas, is that most change colour from a creamy white to beautiful shades of pink or red as the blossoms mature. Some, like H. p. Limelight, start out as a beautiful green shade and then age to cream with varying pink tones.

The H. paniculatas variety also vary in height and breadth, which is an important issue with so many smaller gardens. The standard, or tree form, is another great feature, especially in cramped spaces when a two- to three-metre tree can make a great focal point and also act as a screen.

By far one of the most popular low growing varieties is a Proven Winners introduction called H. p. Bobo. Growing less than one metre tall and about two metres wide, it is one of the earliest to bloom with beautiful white panicles that mature into a pleasing pink.

A close competitor, H. p. Dragon Baby, was introduced by Van Belle Nursery in Abbotsford. It opens with slightly smaller triangular blooms with a touch of green, which quickly turn white and finally finishes as a rich pink. I find it always looks perky and stays very low in the two-to-three-foot range.

Another Van Belle introduction, H.p. Bubble Bath, is gaining attention heads because of its low-mounding form. It also opens lime green, and its huge blossoms age to rosy pink. It’s also a shorty, only getting up to one metre tall and wide.

One of the newest developments by Van Belle is H. p. Hot Sauce, which has more distinct triangular panicles that open a creamy white and then turn pink and red. It’s another very compact variety, growing to less than one metre tall, and it keeps blooming well into autumn.

Last of the shorties is another Proven Winner H.p. Fire Light Tidbit. Similar to H.p. Bobo, with a mounding habit, it also starts out as bright lime, transitioning to white and then quickly turning to a dragon-fruit neon pink. Another feature is its beautiful fiery, orange-red fall foliage.

The popular lime family is always expanding and improving. H.p. Limelight was the original strong-stemmed lime hydrangea, growing up to two metres tall and wide. It is very impressive, but as the blossoms age the green can change into pink and ultimately burgundy in the fall. A shorter, more compact form is called H.p. Little Lime is about half the size of the original with the same colours.

H.p. Little Lime Punch is very similar to Little Lime in size, but the difference comes as the flowers begin to age. Green turns to a festive blend of pink, green, white, and Hawaiian Punch red. It is not only vibrant but very uplifting. In addition to all these varieties, Proven Winners recently introduced H. p. Limelight Prime. It is a very strong plant with darker green foliage and grows to about two metres tall and wide. This new variety holds its lime colour weeks before transforming into a nice bubble gum pink, like their famous petunia. It is the ultimate Limelight icon.

There are also a number of mid-sized varieties available and Van Belle has introduced some very good ones. H.p. Candelabra has significantly larger, creamy triangular panicles that slowly age out to pink and finally turn red for autumn. Growing just over one metre tall, it has a beautiful upright form.

Another nice mid-sized variety with a strong upright form is H.p. Bouncy which features more pointed triangular panicles that hold their nice lime/white colour before turning pink in late summer going into fall.

H.p. Moonrock, which is another lime-cream combination in the four-to-six-foot range sports good sized flowers that hold their colour well into autumn. It is a distinctly beautiful variety.

H.p. Torch is a more open-flowering variety with creamy flowers eventually colouring up to pink and red in late spring and hanging in all summer into fall.

A significant change from the usual mid-sized varieties, H.p. Puffer Fish is really unique: the huge flowers are fluffy white and often obscure the plants’ foliage. Unlike other varieties, the creamy white flowers turn and hold a pure white colour. It is a first-class performer.

H.p. PowerBall has a very unique inflorescent panicle, more reminiscent of the macrophylla hydrangeas. Growing up to six feet tall and wide its super-round blooms open a refreshing green, lighten up a little as they mature, and finally turn a deep rich pink. It can be grown where many mophead hydrangeas can’t grow in hot sun or severe cold. It is very strong and sturdy and deserves a spot in your garden.

H.p. Pinky Winky has been well known for many years, but Proven Winners has introduced H.p. Pinky Winky Prime which has absolutely huge, pointed panicles on a plant that stretches up to nine feet in size. This bicolour variety has enormous, more deeply hued pink blooms which turn a very hot pink as they age with the colour moving up from the bottom to the top of the flower heads.

Proven Winners’ H.p. Quick Fire Fab is one of the more striking tall varieties. Growing to almost two metres wide, it has football sized flowers opening a coconut white and quickly turning a beautiful watermelon red. The pink darkens from the base of the flowers to the tip here as well. What’s interesting is that the tips stay lime green in contrast to the emerging hot pink. It’s an eye-popping plant and one that warrants a home in a larger garden space. The Quick Fire family is also one of the earliest to bloom.

The demand for all of these hydrangeas has truly surprised many growers this year as some varieties sold out early. Their long-lasting beauty, tolerance to both heat and drought, especially this summer, has truly increased their value as more climate-appropriate plants. That only enhances the value of their long blooming habits and many stunning colour changes.

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Sir David and Lady Beckham have a lot going for them, and it turns out an enviable garden with a greenhouse straight out of every gardener’s wildest dreams is one of those things.

Their Victorian-style greenhouse is stunning, and the growing space inside is immaculate, complete with raised beds, perfectly stacked staging, and rows of vegetables so perfectly placed they look fake. It’s seriously inspiring a whole generation of gardeners to wonder whether they too could pull this off, even with a garden in rural Kansas. I asked a few experts, and the answer is a resounding “Yes!” with some planning.

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Adding a greenhouse to your garden can sound extremely complicated, but once you actually have one, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. Andy Connolly, owner of Little Flower Cottage, puts it simply: "A greenhouse gives you a few extra weeks at both ends of the season and will keep the worst of the rain off any tender crops. That means the likes of tomatoes, chilies, and cucumbers all ripen properly instead of doing very little when outside in a cool August."

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Getting the Design Right

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The Beckhams' elegant black Victorian-style greenhouse isn't just practical – it creates a timeless focal point. If you have the budget, premium manufacturers like Hartley Botanic make beautiful Victorian-style greenhouses in the US that capture a very similar look. They are a serious investment, but they're built to last for decades and can become a real feature of the garden.

Don't worry if that's beyond your budget, though. There are now plenty of affordable greenhouse kits with black aluminum frames and traditional styling that deliver a similar feel for a fraction of the price. Paired with neat raised beds, gravel paths, and simple wooden staging, they can recreate much of the Beckhams' polished aesthetic without the luxury price tag.

The greenhouse should feel like part of your garden rather than an afterthought. Choosing a design you'll still love years from now means it's far more likely to become a space you use every day.

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Buy the Greenhouse You'll Eventually Need

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Arguably, the most important advice comes before you’ve even opened your wallet or clicked “add to cart.”

Marta Pawlik, Co-Founder and Director of luxury property management company Laik, whose professional background is in styling spaces, approaches greenhouse design the same way she would a room: "Purchase the greenhouse you'll eventually need, not the greenhouse you need now."

Connolly echoes this: "Almost everyone I know wishes they'd got a bigger size because once you have one you want to grow more in it."

Another tip from Pawlik that nobody else will tell you: "Don't build your greenhouse at the bottom of your garden. You will never go past it, and it will be neglected. Have it within 20 steps of your back door and in sight of your kitchen window."

It sounds obvious in retrospect, but then most good advice does.

Getting the Layout Right

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The Beckhams’ greenhouse earns some major brownie points for its use of raised beds and tiered staging. It looks like it’s simply for the aesthetics, but experts tell me it’s actually for a practical reason. Connolly advises: "Keep the tall crops like tomatoes and cucumbers in the ground-level beds on the side that won't cast shade on everything else. Use staging or tiered shelves for seed trays, herbs and pots, so they are closer to the light. Staging also keeps young plants away from slugs."

Pawlik agrees: "Raised beds heat up sooner than ground-level soil, provide better water drainage, and go easy on your back. Allow a minimum of a 2 feet (60 cm) path between them and keep the ones up against the glazing under 2.5 feet (75 cm) in width."

The Biggest Greenhouse Mistake

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Any experienced gardener will tell you the most common mistake is not ventilating a greenhouse enough. Connolly is emphatic about this: "On a sunny spring day, a closed greenhouse can easily get to over 85°F (30°C), and all your seedlings will be killed. You can buy cheap automatic vent openers which are definitely worth getting and setting up at the start of the season."

Victor Smushkevich, founder of Mold Scanner AI, adds another dimension to the ventilation issue: "The mistake I'd put first is treating a greenhouse like a sealed glass box. Sun heats it, plants release water, and the moisture has nowhere to go. Choose the structure by its vents before you look at glazing or size. You want openings high and low, and on opposite ends, so air moves through instead of sitting."

His practical advice for mold prevention is equally direct: water in the morning so surfaces dry before evening, space plants so leaves aren't packed together, and don't leave trays of standing water on the floor.

What to Grow First

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What should you actually grow in your greenhouse? It’s the question every new greenhouse owner asks, and Connolly’s answer is reassuring and straightforward: "Tomatoes are the obvious one because they're forgiving and what you get is great. Salad leaves, basil and chilies are close behind."

What should you avoid if you’re a beginner? "Melons and eggplants are more trouble than they're worth. They need a lot of heat, and you'll spend most of the summer worrying about them – all you'll get is, at best, a few fruits at the end of it."

Every October, I expect my husband to be outside tackling a huge list of autumn jobs. Instead, he starts with something much less exciting – and apparently much more important.

As I believe I have mentioned at least 1,000 times by this point, my husband is a professional gardener with over 20 years experience under his belt, so I've learned that when he says something needs doing in the garden, I probably shouldn't argue. I may occasionally question his methods, but experience has taught me that there's usually a very good reason behind them.

Still, I used to find it slightly (read: very) strange that one of his first jobs every October isn't raking leaves, cutting back perennials, or giving the garden the sort of dramatic autumn tidy-up that makes everything look instantly neat.

Start October With This One Job

If you're anything like me, the first few leaves on the lawn can trigger a sudden urge to find a rake, but my husband isn't interested in making the garden look completely leaf-free the moment autumn arrives. (He firmly believes that leaf litter can provide shelter for overwintering insects and other wildlife, while gradually breaking down and adding organic matter to the soil).

He doesn't cut everything down, either, as he says some perennials can be left standing through winter, particularly plants with useful seedheads or hollow stems. Those stems can provide shelter for insects, while seedheads can provide food for birds and add some much-needed structure to the winter garden.

The one job he does do, though? He cleans his garden tools, and then he sharpens them.

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It's a job that doesn't come hand-in-hand with a satisfying pile of leaves, or a dramatically shorter hedge. There isn't usually a reason to snap a before-and-after photograph, either. Still, a well-maintained pair of pruners is considerably more useful when you're about to spend the next few months pruning, cutting back and maintaining the garden.

That's why my husband recommends cleaning and disinfecting garden tools in fall before putting them away for winter, and really take the time to make sure the tools you're going to rely on are actually ready for the work ahead.

It doesn't have to be a long and complicated process, either; he starts by removing dirt, dried plant material and sap from the tools, and anything particularly grubby gets a proper wash before the tool is dried thoroughly.

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Then he looks at the blades. Are they dull? Rusty? Damaged? Is anything loose? Do the blades open and close properly?

If anything needs sharpening, he'll do that next (this is not a man who is ready to accept that something might just be getting a little blunt). Finally, he makes sure that metal parts are lightly lubricated to help protect against rust, particularly if any of his tools are going into storage.

Sure, it's not exactly glamorous work, but it's the sort of boring maintenance that means you're less likely to discover a rusty and blunt pair of pruners when you urgently need them.

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I think the biggest lesson I've taken from watching my husband garden for two decades is that, sure, there are leaves to deal with. Yes, there are plants that need cutting back, bulbs to plant, tender plants to protect and plenty of other jobs that depend on your climate and garden.

But do you know what? You really don't have to attack the whole garden at once, because sometimes the smartest first job is simply making sure your tools are clean, sharp and ready for action.

Honestly, once they are, then all those October jobs suddenly become a little easier. And if my husband is right (which, annoyingly, he usually is – although I'll never tell him so), that's a much better place to start than grabbing a rake and trying to make the entire garden look tidy before Halloween.

Sometimes you want exotic, unusual plants that nobody else on the block has in their front yard. But other times, it can be the tried-and-true fall classics that make the most impact to guests and passers-by. When it comes to choosing the best container plants to stand sentry on your porch during this new season, there are a few undisputed fall favorites that will add instant, lasting vibrancy.

Entryway plants are among the most impactful elements in a home's exterior design. They instantly transform the mood for visiting guests, while offering a warm, cheerful welcome to family members returning home at the end of a long day. But when setting up front door containers in fall, it’s important to pick varieties that maintain their rich colors and crisp forms through the cooler winds and dipping temperatures.

Creating a stunning fall doorway display doesn't mean relying on a single pot of flowers. By combining cold-hardy blooms, ornamental grasses, and rich foliage, you can build seasonal displays that are often capable of coping with light frosts. Whether your porch receives plenty of sunshine or morning shade, here are the outstanding container heroes that should go straight to the top of your fall shortlist.

Choosing Front Door Plants for Fall

They say first impressions are critical, and your front door plants serve as the ultimate welcoming committee to anyone approaching your home. Bright, flowering plants instantly wake up the entire entrance, providing vital energy as the sunny skies of summer fade into the more muted shades of autumn. Selecting resilient container plants that thrive as daylight shortens ensures your porch stays vibrant in the coming weeks and straight through to winter.

Tapping into the warm palettes of fall, these cold-hardy container heroes come into their own as fading summer stalwarts lose their strength, fade back, or turn up their toes. Saturated leafy perennials, resilient floral tones, and cascading grasses allows you to create porchways and door entrances soaked in the rich shades of the season, filled with coppers, plums and neon chartreuse. Mix and match and play about with mixed heights and contrasting textures for ultra vivid displays that will have your neighbors doing a double-take.

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Regional conditions play a major role in how your entryway containers perform. Northern gardeners facing early hard frosts should prioritize cold-hardy foliage, while sun-drenched southern porches can keep select fall flowers for pots that bloom well into November. Proper drainage is vital as rainfall increases. Elevate planters off cold concrete using pot feet or pot toes to prevent waterlogged roots. Pot toe classics like Lemon Road Terracotta Pot Feet, available from Amazon, help to improve airflow and maintain healthy roots in these potted plants through fall.

Finally, make sure you use a light, well-draining potting soil for your front door pots. ixing generous handfuls of perlite into a premium potting soil, like Back to the Roots Organic Succulent & Cacti Soil, available from Walmart, will help to prevent root rot in cooler weather. These are all at their best in October, and some of them will bloom right up to the first frost. Some are even cold-hardy enough to survive through winter.

1. Chrysanthemum

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You won’t be the only home on the block featuring mums in your front entryway, but chrysanthemums (C. × morifolium) remain the ultimate fall porch plant for good reason. Their dense, dome-shaped blossoms deliver an unmatched punch of jewel-toned color when summer annuals fade. For perennial stamina, cold-hardy garden mums spread via underground runners and survive harsh winters to return next spring. For dramatic spider or pompom blooms, florist mums give maximum short-term impact. Garden Mum Quart Pots are available from Plant Addicts in a range of lush tones, including sultry Orange Zest and Paradiso Pink.

Position large glazed urns of mums on either side of your doorstep, where they can receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Pair with trailing ivy or silver dichondra as spillers. Deadhead any spent blooms weekly to encourage continuous flowering. Northern growers should move pots against warm walls ahead of early frosts, while southern gardeners must monitor moisture in sunny spots. Never allow container soil to dry out, as thirsty mums will drop unopened buds and collapse.

2. Pansies

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With vibrant colors, a super-long growing season, and often two-toned faces in mixes of red, yellow, orange, white and purple, pansies (Viola × wittrockiana) are essentials for fall containers. Planted in October, these cold-weather champions quickly establish deep roots, offering up to 6 months of continuous color through mild winter stretches and into spring. For something that really sets your porch apart from the rest, try a blue pansy such as Delta Pro True Blue Pansy from Trees.com.

Pansies thrive in full sun to partial shade, so they are ideal for sheltered porches and covered entryways. To maximize visual impact, plant them densely in low, wide terracotta bowl planters or window boxes flanking the doorway. Combine dark purple or rust-orange pansies with ruffled ornamental kale or golden sedum for striking textural contrast. Pinch off faded flower heads weekly to trigger relentless new buds, but don't let containers sit in standing water during heavy rain. There should be a rule that every house needs to install fall pansies to provide cheer to the neighborhood during the drearier months.

3. Asters

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Asters (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium) bring soft, daisy-like texture and dramatic color to fall container arrangements. In mid-to-late fall, they produce dazzling mounds of delicate daisy-style flowers in mounds of purple, pink, lilac and white. Each is centered with a cheerful golden disc that provides an invaluable source of late-season nectar for migrating pollinators. You can buy stunning Aster Woods Purple from Walmart as live plants for quick developing color that lasts all season. In fact, asters are fairly cold hardy, so flowers can last past early frosts into winter.

They can spread via underground stolons when planted in beds, so growing them in containers keeps their vigorous habit perfectly controlled. Place them in a sunny porch spot in large ceramic pots, using them as mid-height fillers alongside tall grasses. Pair purple varieties with orange mums for a high-contrast color scheme that captures the essence of fall. Don’t shear back spent flowers in late fall, as the seed heads can feed visiting songbirds when natural food sources become scarce.

4. Sedum

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A structural favorite among designers, Sedum 'Autumn Joy' (Hylotelephium spectabile 'Autumn Joy') is an outstanding upright succulent that puts on its best show just as the rest of the garden winds down. Enormous, rosy-pink flower clusters atop thick, fleshy stems gradually age into deep rusty-bronze and mahogany tones by late fall. You can buy Autumn Joy from Nature Hills, as well as the lusty purple partner-in-crime, Mr Goodbud Sedum from Plants That Work. Their multi-branched flower heads cannot be ignored and are sure to attract ohs and ahs from visitors.

These ultra-tough perennials are ideal for drought-prone, sunny front entryways that receive harsh winds and hot afternoon light. Plant as a central focus in rustic terracotta or heavy concrete containers. Pair the bold, broccoli-like flower heads with fine-textured Japanese forest grass and trailing ivy for a balanced thriller-filler-spiller These sedums demand exceptional drainage above all else. Avoid heavy peat soils that hold water in cold weather. Water sparingly, allowing soil to dry out between soaks, and don't over-fertilize, which causes stems to grow weak and floppy.

5. Ornamental Kale and Cabbage

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Ornamental kale and cabbage (Brassica oleracea) are cool season annuals that put on a spectacular show in fall. They fill fall containers with easy dynamics, showcasing ruffled rosettes in brilliant shades of magenta, plum, cream, and jade green which actually deepen in color as night temperatures drop below 50F (10C). Capable of surviving hard frosts down to 5F (-15C), they are the ultimate winter-proof choice for drafty front steps and exposed north-facing porches. You can currently buy Purple Ornamental Cabbage Plants from Amazon.

Tuck them into low wooden crate planters or elevated urns as structural focal points. You can pair rich purple kale with golden Japanese forest grass or trailing violas for a high-end designer look. For positioning, ensure containers have wide drainage holes, as soggy soil is their primary weakness in cool weather. Topdress with a light slow-release organic fertilizer when planting, but don't overwater as daylight shortens. These resilient brassicas will hold their crisp, geometric rosettes right through snow snaps and long after traditional patio flowers have faded away.

6. Heuchera (Coral Bells)

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Coral bells (aka heuchera) are the unsung heroes of fall container design, celebrated for their ruffled foliage in breathtaking shades of caramel, fiery copper, deep plum, and chartreuse lime. They provide year-round shaping and can hold their rich foliage color brilliantly even through freezing weather. Use darker foliage varieties like Black Pearl or warm copper types like Caramel as rich visual anchors against yellow mums and purple pansies. You can buy Daylily Nursery's rich purple Berry Smoothie Heuchera Plants from Walmart as 3-inch (8cm) plugs that add instant intense color.

Heuchera plants adapt seamlessly to live as both sunny and shaded containers, making them ideal for covered porches where flowering annuals often struggle. Plant them in medium-sized glazed ceramic pots or mixed window boxes with light, well-draining soil. In cold northern zones, ensure pots are frost-proof terracotta or resin to prevent cracking during freeze-thaw cycles. Don't cut back healthy foliage in autumn – simply groom untidy lower leaves in spring to maintain a tidy mound.

7. Japanese Forest Grass

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Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola') brings effortless movement and graceful cascading texture to front door displays. Its slender, golden-striped ribbon foliage forms weeping mounds that soften the hard edges of container rims, ageing into warm copper and burnt-orange tones by late fall. You can buy Plants That Work All Gold Japanese Forest Grass from Nature Hills. Pair it with deep purple ornamental cabbage or dark coral bells for designer-grade color contrast.

This shade-tolerant perennial grass is ideal for north-facing entryways or covered porches shielded from harsh direct sunlight. Position it as a textural spiller or standalone statement in tall, dark planters where its cascading gold can spill over the sides without touching cold ground. Keep the potting mix consistently damp, as dry soils cause leaf tips to scorch and turn brown. Allow the dried, golden-bronze leaves to remain on the plant through winter for graceful movement and texture in snow.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Your lemon tree is heaving with juicy fruit just as the weather is starting to cool, but take the right steps to look after your lemon tree in October and it'll all still ripen very nicely, thankyou very much! Regular lemon tree care such as full sun and good drainage doesn't change in fall, but you'll need to give your tree some extra TLC if you're to enjoy all those lemons at their plumpest, and it's time to start preparing your tree for winter, too.

Lemons are among the least cold-hardy citrus trees, which means the first cold nights of fall can damage leaves, fruit and new growth, so it's vital to know what to do with lemon trees in fall. But primed and protected from plummeting temperatures, your tree will survive perfectly well through winter, ready to grow another bumper crop next year. And if you're planning on bringing your lemon tree indoors over winter, the right care means you won't move a heap of pests inside with it!

Whatever zone you garden in, and whether you're planning on keeping your lemon tree indoors or outdoors over winter, here's exactly what to do in October.

1. Pick Ripe Lemons

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In October, lemon trees will be holding fruit at several stages from hard green lemons that won't be ready for months to ripe ones that should be picked now.

Color isn't a good way to tell if a lemon is ripe: a lemon can be completely yellow before the juice is ready, and a ripe lemon can still have a little green on it. The only way to know for sure that it's truly ripe is to cut it open and taste it, but there are plenty of indicators to guide you. Ripe lemons will feel heavy for their size as they're full of juice, and will still feel firm but yield slightly to your touch. Scratch the peel lightly with a thumbnail near the stem and a ripe lemon will smell fresh and sweet.

Cut lemons from your tree with hand pruners rather than pulling, as this can tear the skin and fruit with torn skin rots faster. Lemons don't keep ripening after they're picked so a sour lemon is going to stay sour, so leave any that aren't ready on the tree. Follow the other steps to care for lemon trees in fall, and you'll keep lemons ripening a treat.

2. Cut Back on Watering

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Reduce the amount of water you give your tree now, since cool soil stays wet a lot longer than it did in summer. Now fruit is formed, your lemon tree will use up less moisture, too. In rainy areas, you can probably stop irrigating altogether and a long-probe soil moisture meter such as this from Amazon takes out the guesswork.

3. Prune Suckers

While you shouldn't prune a lemon tree in fall as this can cause it to put out tender new growth that'll be vunerable to winter cold, you can get rid of suckers. These are shoots that grow from the rootstock below the graft union (the bulge near the bottom of the trunk) and are often thorny and fast-growing, stealing valuable energy from the tree. Any fruit they make is usually sour and seedy, so prune lemon tree suckers by cutting them off flush with the trunk, using a sharp pair or hand pruners such as these Fiskars pruners from Lowe's.

4. Check for Pests

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Of course, it's always a smart move to keep an eye out for pests but if you're planning to move a lemon tree indoors, it's especially important. Common lemon tree pests that were kept in check outside by rain, wind and predators can quickly take over a lemon tree once it's sheltered indoors.

Look for sticky leaves which are a sign of brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum) and citrus mealybugs (Planococcus citri, above), as are ants crawling up and down the trunk. Scale look like small flat bumps on stems and leaf veins. To check for two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae), tap a branch while holding a sheet of white paper beneath, then watch for specks that start moving.

As you're going to be eating fruit from the tree, use a plant-derived solution such as Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil, available from Amazon. Neem oil is effective against scale, mealybygs and spider mites, but be specific. For scale, scrub with a toothbrush or scrape with a fingernail before spraying. Before spraying for mealybug, dab a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol on the pest clusters first to break through their repellent coating. If you suspect spider mites, use a strong hose jet to rinse off most of the mites, then spray the undersides of the leaves with neem oil.

Repeat once a week to break the pest's lifecycle.

5. Move Potted Trees Inside

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Roots in a pot are a lot more exposed to cold than roots in the ground, so don't wait until frost is forecast before moving your lemon tree indoors. Instead, when nighttime temperatures start dropping to around 40°F (4°C), it's time to take action. A waterproof thermometer that alerts you when a set temperature threshold is breached, like this the nifty GoveeLife Thermo-Hygrometer, available via Amazon, takes any worry away.

Big pots are heavy so use a heavy-duty plant caddy such as the Vigoro Metal Plant Caddy, available from The Home Depot, which holds up to 119 pounds (54kg). Position your lemon tree in a south-facing window where it will get at least six hours of sun a day, well away from heating vents. Don't be alarmed if the tree drops some leaves after it's moved inside as this is a common reaction. Water less than you did outside, and only when the soil is dry about 2 inches (5cm) down.

(Image credit: Getty Images)6. Get Frost Covers Ready for Outdoor Trees

If you're planning on leaving your lemon tree outdoors for the winter, you should have a frost cover ready, well before cold weather shows up in the forecast. One option is to use a heavy-duty cover like this DeWitt Ultimate Plant Winter Blanket from Walmart that you can cut to size. Push a few stakes around the tree so the blanket doesn't touch the leaves, and let the cover hang all the way to the ground so it traps heat coming up from the soil.

Another option if you're growing a tree in a pot is to cut a regular frost blanket like this Cover Protection, also from Walmart to size and leave permanently wrapped around the pot to protect the roots, then pop a plant protection bag on the tree itself when cold weather is forecast. Breathable plant protection bags such as these Frost Jackets from Walmart have a zipper and drawstring that means they're simple to slip on and off when needed.

Don't use plastic, because leaves that touch it are more likely to freeze, and take the blanket off the next morning once the air warms up. Before a forecasted freeze, water the soil and pick any ripe lemons.

If you've seen folk adorning their lemon trees with a string of Christmas fairy lights to bring a little protective heat over winter, then it's good to know that only old-school incandescent bulbs release warmth, and modern LED lights don't.

If You Garden in Zones 10 or 11

Lemon trees will typically survive outdoors year-round in USDA zones 10-11 where winter temperatures don't drop below 30°F. However, a lemon tree growing in a pot is far more vulnerable to cold than one planted in the ground, so you may need to move it to a sheltered postion.

If you Garden in Zone 9

It's generally safe to overwinter a lemon tree outdoors, but you must monitor the weather and be ready to give it the temporary protection of a frost blanket if temperatures threaten to drop below 30°F. A tree growing in a pot is more vulnerable to cold than one growing in the ground, but it does bring the opportunity of moving it to stand next to a warm, sheltered house wall.

If you Garden in Zone 8 or Colder

In zones 8 and below, freezing temperatures will kill a lemon tree, so bring the plant indoors before fall frosts and only move it back outdoors once spring frosts are fully passed. An unheated greenhouse or conservatory or bright porch is ideal, as long as the temperature doesn't dip below 40°F. A room with a constant temperature is far preferable to one that's heated, where the fluctuations will lead to dropped leaves.

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Look after your lemon tree in October and there will be fruit on the tree for months that'll keep ripening all through late fall and winter. Protected from falling temperatures, your tree will survive through winter, ready to grow another crop of juicy lemons next year.

By early fall, leaves are starting to collect along fences and driveways, and parts of the vegetable garden are beginning to fill with fading stems and spent vines. A lot of homeowners bag all of it and set it at the curb. Then a few weeks later, some of them go out and buy bagged mulch for the same perennial beds that debris could have covered. Much of that fall cleanup can be shredded and spread over perennial beds as winter mulch. It costs nothing, and it's already sitting in the yard waiting to be used.

Winter mulching doesn't have to mean store-bought material. Shredded leaves and pine needles work well over perennial beds, and several other types of yard debris can too. Most are best applied after the ground has started to freeze, when they help keep soil temperatures more stable through winter.

That matters because repeated freezing and thawing can lift shallow roots and newly planted perennials out of the ground. Known as heave, this leaves them exposed to cold and drying winds. A layer of mulch helps reduce those temperature swings, giving vulnerable plants extra protection until spring. Here are six free materials you can gather during fall cleanup that make excellent winter mulch, plus how to prepare and use each one.

1. Shredded Deciduous Leaves

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Leaves are one of the best free mulches you can collect during fall cleanup, but they work much better shredded than whole. Whole leaves tend to pack into a wet mat that sheds rain and holds moisture against plant crowns, while shredded leaves stay loose enough for air and water to pass through.

You can shred leaves by running over them with a lawn mower in one or two passes, especially if it has a bagger to collect the pieces as you go. If you're dealing with a large volume of leaves every fall, then a dedicated leaf shredder can make the job much quicker. This Worx Electric Leaf Mulcher from Amazon is designed to reduce piles of dry leaves into fine mulch that's easy to spread around the garden or store until you're ready to use it.

If it's still too early to mulch, keep the shredded leaves in paper yard waste bags, a garden bin, or another dry, sheltered spot until the ground begins to freeze. That's the ideal time to spread them around hardy perennials to help keep soil temperatures more stable through winter.

Maple leaves are especially prone to matting, so shredding is particularly important. Black walnut leaves are the exception. They contain juglone, which can harm tomatoes and other sensitive plants, so it's best to compost them first, where the juglone breaks down over several weeks before you use the compost elsewhere in the garden.

2. Pine Needles

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Pine needles, often sold as pine straw, make an excellent free winter mulch. Fresh pine needles are acidic, but once they're used as mulch, they cause little measurable change in soil pH. They also resist compacting under snow, allowing rain and melting snow to drain through to the soil.

Rake up dry needles as they fall and collect them in a reusable pop-up garden bag until you're ready to mulch. I like the Fiskars Kangaroo Collapsible Garden Bag from Amazon, which makes it easy to gather and carry bulky loads of pine needles around the yard. Unlike leaves, pine needles don't need shredding and can be spread straight around perennial beds after the ground has started to freeze.

In dry or fire-prone areas, pine straw can be a fire hazard, so keep it at least a few feet (about 1 m) away from your home and other structures.

3. Chipped Branches and Evergreen Boughs

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Fall isn't the time to prune most shrubs, but dead wood and storm-damaged branches can be removed at any time of year. Rather than throwing them away, healthy branches can be chipped into a long-lasting winter mulch. If you generate a lot of woody debris, a LawnMaster electric wood chipper makes it easy to turn small branches into coarse wood chips for the garden.

Wood chips break down slowly, so they can protect perennial beds for more than one season. Store them in a loose pile until the ground begins to freeze, then spread them around established perennials, keeping the mulch a few inches away from stems and crowns. Avoid using chipped material from diseased trees or shrubs, as it can spread problems around the garden. Dispose of infected branches instead.

If you don't have a chipper, evergreen boughs are another excellent free option and need no preparation at all. Simply lay the branches in a loose crisscross over perennial beds after the ground has frozen. The boughs trap insulating snow while helping to shade the soil from the low winter sun, reducing repeated freeze-thaw cycles. Branches from a cut Christmas tree can be reused in exactly the same way once the holidays are over.

4. Ornamental Grass Trimmings

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Most ornamental grasses are best left standing through winter, as the foliage helps protect the crown from cold weather. Many gardeners wait until late winter or early spring to cut them back, but if a clump has flopped over or is blocking a path, you can trim it earlier.

A pair of Fiskars PowerGear2 Hedge Shears makes light work of cutting back tough, fibrous stems. Before using the cut foliage as mulch, remove any seed heads, as some ornamental grasses self-sow readily and any seeds left behind can sprout the following spring. Cut the stems into pieces about 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) long so they stay in place and allow rainwater to drain through easily.

Spread the chopped stems loosely around perennial beds after the ground has frozen. They'll provide a light insulating layer over winter before gradually breaking down into the soil.

5. Corn Stalks and Garden Cleanout

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Not all garden debris makes good winter mulch. Tomato and squash plants that suffered from blight or powdery mildew should go in the trash, as disease spores can overwinter on infected stems and leaves.

Healthy bean vines and spent annuals, however, can be chopped into smaller pieces and spread over perennial beds once the ground has frozen. They'll gradually break down while helping to protect the soil through winter.

Corn stalks need a little more thought. Larvae of the European corn borer (Ostrinia nubilalis) can overwinter inside them. Running the stalks through a mower can kill many of the larvae, but not all. Instead of using them as mulch, it's better to add chopped corn stalks to a hot compost pile, where they'll break down safely over the course of about a year before they're ready to use in the garden.

6. Finished Yard Compost

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Compost works a little differently from the other materials on this list. While it's excellent for improving soil, it's too dense and fine to provide much insulation on its own.

Spread about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of finished compost over perennial beds after the growing season to feed the soil over the coming months. Then top it with a looser mulch, such as shredded leaves or pine needles, to help insulate the soil and protect plant crowns through winter.

Before spreading compost, it's worth screening out any large sticks or woody pieces that haven't fully broken down. A compost sifter, like this Achla Designs sifter from Amazon, makes this quick and easy. Return any leftover chunks to the compost pile to continue decomposing before using the finished compost elsewhere in the garden.

When to Spread It – and How Deep

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Winter mulch goes on after the top inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of soil has frozen and perennials have gone dormant. In many colder regions, that's not until late fall. Don't spread it too early. An early layer can trap warmth and moisture in the soil, which is the opposite of what dormant plants need. It can also provide shelter for voles and other rodents that may chew on roots and bark. In areas with mild winters, wait until after a few hard freezes before mulching.

Spread about 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) of mulch over perennial beds. Shredded leaves settle as the season goes on, so it's fine to start with a slightly deeper layer. Keep the mulch 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) away from tree trunks and shrub stems to avoid trapping moisture against the bark.

In spring, rake the mulch back gradually as new shoots emerge, but keep it nearby for a week or two in case a late frost is forecast. Once the weather has settled, you can spread the partially decomposed mulch over vegetable beds or add it to the compost pile.

By the end of spring, much of the shredded leaf mulch will have broken down into the soil, ready to be replaced with another free supply from your next fall cleanup.