Organic Gardening News

If there are gardeners out there who look forward to heatwaves, I haven’t met them. It’s pretty awful to wake up to a hot morning when the heat just keeps getting hotter as the day goes along.

Many popular garden plants make it through a heatwave because they have roots that go deep into the soil where there is moisture. But when those same plants live in containers, there is no deep soil and no room for deep roots. Container plants have a very limited amount of soil, and that soil dries out quickly during summer droughts.

That doesn’t mean that all container plants are doomed in summer heat. The best drought-tolerant container plants thrive in hot weather and with reduced water. Succulents and cacti are at the top of the list, but there are plenty of other low-water, heat-loving plants that bring color and interest. Below are seven of my favorites, and some tips for helping container plants survive heatwaves.

Helping Container Plants Survive Heatwaves

You can help your container plants thrive in a heatwave by taking a few precautions. Be sure the plants you leave out during a heatwave are drought-tolerant and like the heat – but their maturity is important too. Don't leave new, young perennial plants outside during a heat wave. Give them a year to establish.

Otherwise, follow these tips:

• Water your container plants in the early morning every day.
• Water until you see water coming out of the drain holes.
• Add a 2–3 inch layer of mulch on the top of the soil in every container. Use organic compost, chopped dry leaves, or wood chips.
• In truly scorching weather, move the containers out of the sun for the afternoon. A location with morning sun and afternoon shade is best.
• Don’t fertilise plants at all during hot weather. Wait until cooler weather comes in.

Heatwave Garden Essentials

Oycevila 5 lb Water-Storing Crystals for Plants

You can reduce watering by up to 50% by mixing these water-storing crystals in with the potting soil.

4 Pack Plant Umbrellas for Outdoor Plants

These fun plant parasols can be angled to protect vulnerable plants during periods of intense heat.

Back to the Roots Organic Expanding Mulch

Apply a layer of this expanding coconut husk mulch over the top of soil in pots to help keep soil cool and retain moisture.

1. Silver Jade Plant

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

The silver dollar jade plant (Crassula arborescens) is an attractive succulent with round, puffy blue-gray leaves edged in a rich wine color. Native to South Africa, this striking plant has thick stems and starry white or pink blossoms in spring.

You can buy a variety pack of jade plants online from Altman Plants at Lowe's.

Jade is a perfect container plant in USDA zones 9-11. Its relatively short roots need well-draining soil and minimal water. In fact, too much water will rot the roots of this plant. Like other succulents, silver dollar jade plant stores water in its puffy leaves to use during times of drought. This is one of those plants you can set on a patio, admire every few days, and neglect the rest of the time.

2. Russian Sage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Are there any plants with stunning flowers that actually grow best in a full-sun, arid location? There are indeed, and Russian sage is one of them. It’s an erect shrub that prefers full sun in well-drained soil. It performs best in dry, arid conditions.

Russian sage forms clumps that rise to 3 feet (1 m) tall, with sturdy upright stems and silvery-gray leaves. They have a pleasing pungent aroma when touched. The tubular purple flowers appear from June to October. Cultivars like 'Blue Spire ' and 'Blue Mist' produce better flowers than the species plant.

You can plant Russian sage in a container on a sunny patio, but you might want to select a dwarf cultivar like Denim ‘n Lace from Plant Addicts, or Little Spire, available at Lowe's. Give the container an occasional deep watering, then leave it alone until it’s completely dry.

3. Purple Fountain Grass

(Image credit: anand purohit / Getty Images)

Oh la la, this is a lovely fountain grass plant! It’s graceful and colorful, with waves of soft purple plumes arching up from burgundy-tinted foliage. Purple fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum 'Rubrum') is the superstar of fountain grass, dramatic in containers or mass plantings.

With its short roots, purple fountain grass thrives in containers as an annual, and as a perennial in zones 9–11. It is free of pests and diseases, and tolerant of hot sun and minimal water. Planted in large containers, this grass can grow up to 5 feet tall, making a fabulous frame for entryways when placed on either side of a doorway, adding visual interest with its height, movement, and color.

Buy purple fountain grass online from Nature Hills.

4. Thorncrest Century Plant

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Thorncrest century plant (Agave univittata ), a type of agave, grows wild in the Rio Grande Plains, thriving in dry, well-drained, rocky soil in zones 9–11. This qualifies it to take its rightful place among the best, drought-proof container plants that stay lush in heatwaves. Try this attractive Quadricolor variety from Altman Plants via Amazon.

Agave forms a rosette of leaves at its base; lovely, dark green leaves with a lighter green stripe down the middle. These large leaves heap up to about 2 feet (60 cm) tall. Then, of course, they flower – but don’t hold your breath. Agaves only bloom once in a lifetime, but when they do, what a show! The flower stalk appears in spring and shoots up to 10–15 feet (3–5 m) tall.

Thorncrest century plant is a fuss-free container plant that doesn’t need much water. Put it in a spot that gets sun. If you live in a cooler zone, you can still grow century plant. Set it up in a container and move it indoors during winter.

5. Asiatic Jasmine

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Common jasmine is a lush climbing vine with gorgeously fragrant white blossoms that requires regular water to leaf and flower. But Asiatic jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum) – unrelated to the real jasmine clan – is an evergreen, vine-like woody plant that makes a good, drought-proof perennial for containers in zones 7–10. In cooler zones, it can be grown as an annual.

Variegated varieties, like the new Snow-N-Summer Asiatic Jasmine, available at Plant Addicts, are particularly stunning, with foliage spanning pink, white, and green.

While many use Asiatic jasmine in the landscape for alternative groundcover, this plant, with tiny yellow “pinwheel” flowers, also does well in containers placed in the shade or sun. It will grow to 3 feet (1 m) tall and half that wide. Gardeners in Florida often choose Asiatic jasmine given its hardiness and drought tolerance. Once established, this jasmine needs very little care.

6. Rosemary

(Image credit: ARTFULLY PHOTOGRAPHER / Shutterstock)

Native to the hot Mediterranean area of Europe, rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) offers so much that you can’t pass it up as a drought-tolerant, heat-loving plant. This shrubby perennial herb has truly lovely blue flowers as well, attracting oohs and aahs and pollinators. Driving through Spain, I’ve seen wild fields of rosemary so beautiful that they took my breath away.

Rosemary is drought-tolerant and grows best in full sun in warm areas. Can you grow it in a pot? It’s best, since the shrub doesn’t like much moisture in its soil, and soil in a container stays drier than soil in the ground. Rosemary thrives in zones 7–11. In colder areas, grow rosemary in a container and bring it inside for the winter.

7. Cushion Spurge

(Image credit: Marina Bagrova / Getty Images)

Never heard of cushion spurge (Euphorbia epithymoides)? Well, say hello to one of the most drought-tolerant perennials for USDA zones 4 to 8. The plant’s flowers are lovely, yellow blooms backed by chartreuse bracts on a plant that grows to about 18 inches (50 cm) tall. The second show happens in fall when the foliage changes to orange and red.

Cushion spurge is a great choice for patio container plants; just pick a large container with adequate drain holes. This plant is happy but will also thrive in partial shade, though too much shade will make the cushion spurge leggy, rather than its classic cushion shape.

Another good spurge for containers that has a similar cushion-like growth habit is Tiny Tim dwarf spurge, available at Walmart.

Mulch put down in spring feels like a one-and-done job, and for plenty of gardeners it is – right up until midsummer, when the beds start looking thin and the ground dries out faster than it used to. That layer that was 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm) deep back in April has a way of settling and quietly vanishing by July. Whether it calls for another bag or two really depends on what's left on the ground.

Any solid guide to mulching will stress that organic mulches are meant to break down over time – that's the point. They not only hold in moisture and cool the soil, but they also add organic matter into the soil as they break down. The catch is, though, is that they don't last forever. So a midsummer mulch refresh is often the price of that slow-release payoff.

Not every landscape needs another layer of mulch in the middle of summer, though, and heaping more where there's already plenty brings its own set of headaches. I'll help you know if your garden needs another layer of mulch, how much to add, and the best type to refresh gardens in midsummer.

Why Does Mulch Disappear?

A few different elements eat away at mulch over the course of the summer season. Living organisms in the soil break down the lower layers of mulch over time, which is actually a good thing. The mulch turns into exactly what your plants want and need to thrive.

But the surface layer of your mulch is another matter. Sun bleaches and dries it out, and hard rain packs it down flat. Week by week, a fair amount of mulch gets kicked around by normal tending and foot traffic or blown clear of the bed by the wind, too.

How fast this occurs comes down to the cause and the type of mulch you used. Shredded bark and wood chips hold up for a good while, often a full season or longer. Lighter materials – think straw or grass clippings – break down quicker and sometimes they're almost gone by high summer. Stone and gravel mulches don't break down at all, though they don't feed the soil either, which is why most flower and vegetable beds benefit from an organic mulch.

(Image credit: Vasil Dimitrov / Getty Images)Do You Need to Reapply Mulch?

A simple test to check if you need more mulch and when to mulch in summer only takes a few seconds. Just push a ruler down through the remaining mulch until it hits soil and see how deep the layer actually is. Anything under an inch (2.5 cm) or so isn't pulling its weight anymore. It won't hold in much moisture or do much to smother weeds. Bare patches where the dirt shows through are the other easy giveaway, since that's where water evaporates fastest and weeds find their opening.

Weeds tend to reveal on a thin layer of mulch, too. A bed that was clean in spring suddenly throwing up seedlings usually means the mulch has worn past the point of blocking them.

Moisture is the other tell. If the ground under the mulch dries within a day of a good watering, the cover is too skimpy to hold much moisture. A basic soil moisture meter from Amazon takes the guesswork out of this, though honestly a finger pushed a couple inches (5 cm) into the dirt works nearly as well.

(Image credit: Getty Images)How Much Mulch to Add

The goal is a finished depth of 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm), not two to three inches of fresh mulch piled on whatever's already sitting there. Topping up means adding the difference and nothing more.

If an inch (2.5 cm) of mulch is still holding, another inch or so brings it back where it should be. Too much mulch, anything deeper than 3 inches (8 cm), and it starts working against you by holding too much water against plant roots and preventing the soil from breathing.

Keep the fresh mulch layer pulled back a couple inches (5 cm) from plant stems and the base of shrubs or trees. Mulch heaped straight against bark traps moisture where it isn't wanted and invites rot. Those mulch volcanoes you see around trees are a common mulching mistake and are actually really bad for trees.

Spread and level out mulch with a rake. A sturdy landscape rake from Amazon spreads a bag evenly in a fraction of the time of doing it by hand and keeps the depth consistent across the whole bed.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Best Mulch for a Midsummer Refresh

For a summer top-up, you want a mulch that holds moisture well and stays put through thunderstorms. Shredded bark and wood chips are hard to beat for use around shrubs and perennials. They knit together and resist blowing away, and their slow breakdown process helps them last right into fall.

Vegetable beds do better with an eco-friendly mulch like straw or shredded leaves, which stay light and work into the soil easily once the season winds down. But matching the new mulch to whatever's already there keeps your landscape looking cohesive.

One task worth doing regardless of the type of mulch you use: soak your garden beds first. Laying mulch over dry ground just locks in that dryness, which defeats the whole purpose. A bag or two of organic shredded bark mulch from Amazon covers most average-sized beds and a good watering beforehand means the fresh layer of mulch seals in moisture.

July is when backyard tomatoes either take off or quietly fall apart. The plants are big by now, heavy with green fruit and pushing hard through the hottest stretch of the year – which is right when small problems snowball into season-enders. Blossom end rot sets in, skins split, and a fungal spot creeps up the lower leaves before anyone notices. Most of that traces back to a few tasks that get skipped in the heat, not to bad luck.

The good news is that ten minutes of attention now pays off for weeks. Anyone already comfortable with growing tomatoes knows the vines are forgiving up to a point, and midsummer is where that forgiveness runs thin. A little pruning, steady water, a nutrient nudge at the right moment – these are the moves that keep fruit setting through August instead of stalling out in a tangle of leggy growth and cracked skins. None of it takes special skill. It just takes doing it before the plant forces the issue.

What Your Tomatoes Need in July

The plants aren't asking for much in July, but the little they need, they need on time. Skipping a step doesn't show up right away – it shows up three weeks later as cracked fruit or a vine half-taken by blight. Ten minutes now buys a lot of tomatoes later, and better-tasting ones at that.

1. Low-Leaf Haircut for Airflow and Blight Prevention

(Image credit: Oleh Strus / Getty Images)

When pruning tomatoes, start at the bottom. Those lower leaves touching the soil, or hovering just above it, are the first place blight and early leaf spot get a foothold – rain splashes soil-borne spores up onto them, and from there the trouble climbs. Stripping the bottom 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30cm) of foliage off each plant opens up airflow right where things sit stagnant and humid. It looks a little brutal the first time. The plant won't miss them.

Those low leaves aren't doing much photosynthesizing anyway, shaded out by everything above. Pulling them lets air move through the base and dries the zone out faster after a storm, which is half the battle with fungal trouble. Do it on a dry morning so the wounds seal before evening humidity settles back in. A clean cut or a clean snap, either works – just don't leave torn stubs that invite rot.

2. Consistency With Deep Watering

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Tomatoes hate surprises when it comes to water. Deep, consistent soaking is what heads off blossom end rot and split tomatoes both, and the two problems actually share a cause – erratic moisture. When a plant goes bone dry and then gets flooded, the fruit swells faster than the skin can stretch, and it cracks. Calcium uptake stalls during the dry stretches too, which is what triggers that sunken dark patch on the bottom of the tomato.

The fix is boring, but it works. Water tomatoes deeply and less often, right at the base. A couple of long soakings a week beats a daily sprinkle that only wets the top inch (2.5cm). A drip line or soaker hose from Amazon takes the guesswork out of it, running slow and low so moisture sinks down to where the roots are. Mulch over the top of that and the ground holds even between waterings. That last part is honestly reason enough to mulch.

3. Midsummer Sucker Pruning

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Tomato suckers are the little shoots that pop out in the crotch between the main stem and a branch. Left alone, especially on indeterminate types, they grow into whole secondary stems that eat energy the plant could be putting into fruit. Midsummer is prime time to stay on top of them, since the vines are growing fast and throwing new suckers weekly. Pinch them out while they're small – thumb and forefinger, no tools needed.

There's a limit to this, though. Determinate tomatoes set most of their crop at once and shouldn't be sucker-pruned much at all, since every growing tip counts toward the harvest. On indeterminate tomatoes, a light hand beats a heavy one in the heat. Strip too much foliage and you expose fruit to sunscald, those pale leathery patches that show up on shoulders baking in full sun. Take the obvious suckers, leave enough canopy to shade what's ripening.

4. Mid-Season Potassium Boost

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

By July, the early fertilizer is mostly used up and the plant is heading into its heaviest fruiting stretch. This is where a potassium boost earns its keep – potassium drives fruit development and flavor, and a mid-season side dressing keeps production from tapering off early. Skip fertilizing tomatoes with the high-nitrogen stuff now. Nitrogen at this stage just pushes leafy growth at the expense of the tomatoes already forming.

Side dressing is simple. Scatter a low-nitrogen, higher-potassium feed in a ring a few inches (7 to 8cm) out from the stem, scratch it into the soil surface, then water it in. Something along the lines of a tomato-specific granular fertilizer from Amazon does the job without much fuss. The plant picks it up over the following weeks, right as the fruit load peaks. Do it once now and most gardens won't need another round before the season winds down.

5. Reinforcing the Rigging

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

All that fruit has weight, and July is when supports start giving out. A cage that held fine in June leans under a fully loaded plant, and once a stem kinks or snaps, that whole branch of developing tomatoes is finished. Walk the row and look for strain. Maybe a stake has worked loose, or a tie is starting to bite into a thickening stem. Better to catch it before a storm rolls through and lays everything flat.

Loosen any ties that are cutting in and re-secure with something soft. Strips of old T-shirt work, or these adjustable plant ties from Amazon that don't dig into the stem as it thickens. Add a stake where a plant is outgrowing its cage, and tie in the heavy trusses so they're not hanging off a single joint. Ten minutes of reinforcement now saves a snapped main stem later, and there's no coming back from that one.

6. Snapping Off Key Growing Tips

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This one's aimed at the tail end of the run, but it's worth knowing about now. Toward the close of tomato season – usually mid to late summer, depending on climate – snapping off the growing tips of indeterminate plants tells them to quit making new growth and ripen what's already there. Any flower cluster that opens past a certain point won't have time to mature anyway, so the plant does better funneling that energy into the fruit already hanging.

It's called topping, and it can be the difference between a pile of green tomatoes at first frost and a properly ripe haul. Cut or pinch the top few inches (7 to 8 cm) off each main stem, just above the highest cluster worth keeping. Everything gets redirected downward. In shorter-season areas it's close to essential; in long, warm climates there's less urgency, though it still helps concentrate flavor late in the year. Miss July, and tomatoes coast. Get it right, and they produce like they’ve got something to prove.

Most vegetable gardens are fed on a loose schedule: a scoop of granular in spring, maybe a mid-season boost, whatever the instructions on the bag suggest. That works fine most of the time. But what many gardeners don't realize is that when you fertilize plants matters nearly as much as what you feed them. The gap between a well-timed dose of fertilizer and a badly-timed feeding shows up fast, sometimes as scorched roots and sometimes as a plant that sulks for a week instead of taking off.

Figuring out the best time to fertilize plants isn't complicated, though. Plants only draw on nutrients when they're actively growing and the soil around their roots is damp enough to carry those nutrients. Feed during that window and the plant takes up nearly everything on offer. Feed outside of it and a good share of that fertilizer either sits there unused or, worse, harms the plant it was meant to help.

Here's exactly when to fertilize your vegetable garden for a bigger harvest and thriving plants. Plus, find out the worst time to feed plants.

Best Time to Fertilize Vegetables

The best time to fertilize a vegetable garden is when plants are actively growing and the ground is already damp. For most vegetables that is sometime between early establishment and fruit set. At that point, the plant moves from building leaves to filling out fruit and it stays hungry the whole way through this process.

If you fertilize during this phase, the nutrients get pulled up and put to work almost right away. Fertilize plants on a cool, overcast morning and it helps even more since your veggies aren't spending everything they have just trying to survive the heat of the day.

Morning is the friendliest time slot for fertilizing before the heat builds. The soil is usually still holding moisture from overnight, the roots are awake, and there's a long stretch of mild conditions ahead for the plant to use the nutrients you're giving it.

Watering first or feeding the day after decent rain makes a real difference. Nutrients need water to travel and dry soil just leaves them stranded up top. A balanced liquid fertilizer from Amazon works quickly since it's already dissolved in water and ready for the roots to absorb.

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)Why This Is the Ideal Time

Fertilizing your vegetable garden on a damp morning during a period of active growth isn't only about being tidy. It changes how much of the fertilizer your plants can actually reach.

Nutrients provided while roots are active and the soil is moist get absorbed better, instead of washing past the root zone during the next hard rain. That means less waste, and less runoff that carries nutrients somewhere they were never meant to be. More of what you paid for actually gets to the plant.

There's a knock-on effect on growth, too. A plant fed steadily through its hungry phase grows at an even pace, which usually means better fruit and fewer of the soft, sappy shoots aphids attack. Provide too much nitrogen too late in the season, though, and the plant puts out lots of leaves when it should be ripening fruit. The feed technically worked, but it aimed the plant at the wrong goal.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)Worst Time to Fertilize Vegetables

Here's the main lesson to take away when it comes to fertilizing vegetables: never feed a plant that's already stressed from heat and dry soil. It may seem almost backwards – the plant looks like it's suffering, so surely a boost of nutrients would help? It won't. Fertilizer is essentially salts and salts in dry ground pull moisture the wrong way, drawing it out of the roots instead of into them.

If the top few inches (8 cm) of soil feel bone dry, that's the signal to hold off. A soil moisture meter from Amazon helps you tell if you're soil is too dry in seconds, if the surface moisture is hard to read. For a wilting, sun-baked plant, feeding is a fast track to fertilizer burn or scorched root tips and crispy leaf edges that appear in just a day or two.

Follow the same precaution when feeding any plant that is visibly struggling – that includes wilting in the heat or new plants suffering transplant shock. Feeding rarely fixes those issues. More often it stacks stress onto a plant that is already maxed out.

It's better to solve the problem first, usually by watering your vegetable garden, and let plants steady themselves before adding fertilizer. A hungry plant can perk back up in just a few days. A burned one takes a lot longer to come back.

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)What to Do If You Missed the Window

Missing the ideal vegetable fertilizing window isn't a huge deal. The right fix is rarely to pile on extra fertilizer to catch up. That's how one missed feeding turns into a case of fertilizer burn.

Instead, water your vegetable beds deeply and let them settle. Wait for a mild morning, then feed at about half the usual strength. Half-strength fertilizer at the right moment does more than a full dose forced at the wrong time.

Gentler options carry less risk when you're playing catch-up, too. A diluted liquid feed watered in or a thin layer of compost worked over the surface releases slowly and won't shock plants. A long-neck watering can from Amazon makes it easy to get a diluted feed right to the base of each plant without splashing foliage in the midday sun.

After that, it's mostly patience. Your vegetable garden catches up on its own clock, not yours, so rushing the process rarely ends the way you hope.

Plants are no different to people: some put the effort in day in, day out with a smile on their face and zero complaints; others require fulltime management if they’re to function at all. And while there’s no escaping the full spectrum of humankind, you can sure fill your garden with low-maintenance plants that thrive on neglect, producing months of cheery flowers with hardly any help from you.

What makes any garden look truly amazing – and makes you look like an awesome gardener, too – is an abundance of flowers. And that doesn’t need to come at the cost of an equally high level of hard work from you. I only grow plants with a magic ratio of maximum blooms in return for minimal effort, and here I'm sharing some of the very easiest flowers to grow. They're all perennials so they’ll reliably return year after year, so you only need plant them once. And they’re all pretty drought tolerant so, while you’ll need to keep them well watered at first, until they grow their roots deep enough into the ground to find their own source of water, long-term they’ll thrive on neglect.

When I say I grow all these plants in my garden, what I should really be saying is that all these plants grow themselves in my garden. Apart from cutting down the old stems and pointing the hosepipe in their direction if there’s a prolonged spell of really hot, dry weather in summer, I very much leave them to their own devices. Do they sulk? Never. Do they keel over and die when I go on holiday? Nope. Can you plant them all now for easy color that'll last into fall? Hell yeah! Welcome to the world of star-performer plants that are perfect for low maintenance gardens and time-poor gardeners…

1. Salvia ‘Caradonna’

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 4-8
• Full sun
• Grows 2 feet high and wide
• Flowers early summer to early fall

Purple is one of the best colors to have in your garden palette. It’s bright without being gaudy and makes the colors of all the flowers around it – blue, pink, yellow, red or orange – appear more vibrant. And Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ is one of the very best best salvia varieties to bring purple into your borders. As well as violet-blue spires of flowers, its stems are a wonderfully dark purple, and its aromatic foliage grows into a compact mound.

Pollinators adore the nectar-rich flowers, but not as much as landscape designers! And no wonder – this hard-working beauty works in all color palettes and is simple to care for, even by beginner gardeners, yet brings such a modern, stylish vibe to any garden. Deer and rabbits tend to leave it alone, too, so it really is an easy win.

This perennial sage flowers from late spring into summer – and if you trim off the spent flower spikes with a pair of hedge shears, it’ll rebloom all over again. For maximum flowers and the strongest tones, if you like to use color in your garden, just give it a sunny spot with at least 6 hours of sunshine. And the secret to keeping Salvia ‘Caradonna’ performing well for years without much input from you is simply to ensure it has good drainage, easily achieved by mixing soil improver and a handful of grit into the ground when planting.

Salvia 'Caradonna' is available from the Perennial Farm Marketplace Store via Amazon, and is also stocked by Woodies Garden Goods.

2. Geranium ‘Rozanne’

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 5-8
• Full sun or partial shade
• Grows 1-2 feet high and wide
• Flowers May to October

Here’s another purple beauty that brings abundant blooms to your garden for next-to-no effort. Geranium 'Rozanne' grows a profusion of violet-blue blooms veined with purple all through summer and autumn, which pollinators love. The great thing about this hardy cranesbill is that it’ll grow pretty much anywhere, in any soil, as long as it gets a little sun. It puts up with everything the weather can throw at it, too, so this tough cookie is a great way to fill a tricky spot.

But the best thing about Geranium 'Rozanne' is that it doesn’t produce seeds. Being sterile means it puts all its energy into producing flowers from spring to fall, and also doesn’t gift you a gazillion seedlings to pull up in spring.

A perennial, it tends to grow out rather than up, but it’ll happily weave its way through other plants without smothering them. I’ve paired it with ornamental grasses in a front yard bed that gets baked by the sun all morning then is cast into deep shade all afternoon, that I very rarely water (just once so far this summer!). And honestly, it’s effortless. Its informal habit also makes Rozanne one of those easy-breezy plants often used by landscape designers to soften hard landscaping.

Proven Winners Rozanne hardy geraniums are available from Nature Hills.

3. Gaura lindheimeri ‘Whirling Butterflies’

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 5-9
• Full to part sun
• Grows 3-4 feet high and 1-2 feet wide
• Flowers May to October

Here’s a plant that we should all grow more of, because it will flower from spring through fall even if you ignore it entirely! What’s more, pollinators flock to Gaura lindheimeri 'Whirling Butterflies', and its thin stems shift on the slightest breeze, bringing so much movement to any border. I have three plants and while they’re not the main focus of the beds, the white flowers brushed with blush pink add real depth, whirling about just above the main flush of perennial blooms.

The stems naturally form an open, airy shape, so this is a wonderful plant to bring a more romantic, informal vibe to your garden. But be warned, everyone who visits your garden will want to know what it is!

This is another sterile plant, which is why it continually flowers from late spring through fall. Gaura is super-easy to grow, and to take cuttings from, even if you’re a beginner gardener. Because this fabulous variety is relatively uncommon in the US, it sells out quickly. Plants are currently available from RedCrocus via Amazon, and are usually stocked by Woodies Garden Goods. If you’re searching for this plant at your local nursery or online, it’s useful to know that it’s recently been reclassified as Oenothera.

4. Lavender ‘Grosso’

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Grows 2-3 feet high and wide
• Flowers July to September

So many of my neighbors have asked me what I do to grow such big, healthy lavender in my front garden. You see, they think I’m just growing a regular lavender and it’s my green fingers that are making it grow so tall and aromatic. And yes, it’s true that I always give lavender a gravel mulch to get more flowers, but my other secret is that this is Lavender ‘Grosso’.

This hybrid variety is a cross between English lavender and Portuguese lavender, and it produces very large, plump flower spikes on tall stems. Lavandula x intermedia 'Grosso' has a far higher concentration of essential oils – three or four times as much as English lavender – which means it’s incredibly fragrant too, which is why it’s often grown commercially.

The more sun Lavender 'Grosso' gets, the happier it is, and as long as it has well drained soil, it pretty much looks after itself. I occasionally throw the plant a bucket of water at it but more often than not, I forget. Grosso lavender is another sterile plant, so it flowers all summer long, and doesn’t produce any unwanted seedlings. Its nectar-rich flowers are adored by pollinators, too.

Lavender 'Grosso' plants are available from Burpee.

5. Japanese anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 4-8
• Full sun to partial shade
• Grows 3-4 feet high and 1-3 feet wide
• Flowers August to October

Yes, it’s true, a lot of Japanese anemones can be thugs in the garden, but ‘Honorine Jobert’ is perfectly polite and well behaved. It does still spread through underground rhizomes but far less vigorously than most other varieties, and has shallow roots so it’s easy to pull up if it wanders too far. Put it in a spot that doesn’t give it optimum conditions to spread – rich or loose soil – and it’s not any trouble at all.

However, ‘Honorine Jobert’ still has that wonderful wish to live that all Japanese anemones possess, making this perennial very easy to grow. Its elegant petals, a fresh white softened by the faintest touch of pink on their undersides, will refresh a tired, heat-baked garden in late summer, year after year, and continue through fall. I particularly love how the flowers dance on their wiry stems as summer draws to a close and the wind picks up. The buds are perfect little spheres, too, adding to the joy.

While this plant copes fine in full sun, because it prefers consistent moisture, it’s more low-maintenance if you grow it in a partially shady spot. Its fresh green foliage and white fall flowers brighten up the shade a treat, too.

Japanese anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’ plants are available from Woodies Garden Goods.

6. Hardy Sedum Autumn Joy

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun or partial light shade
• Grows 1-2 feet tall and wide
• Flowers August to November

I grow this hard worker in a front-yard bed that I haven’t watered for two years now, and it’s thriving. So, other than cutting back the old stems, which takes about a minute, Sedum Autumn Joy takes up none of my time or effort – but it still puts on a bobby dazzler display. Its flat-topped clusters of star-shaped flowers start a pale pink in late summer, morphing into a rich raspberry then to a copper-red tone over a couple of months, bringing a heap of easy fall color. That’s a lot of flower power already, but if you want even more, you can cut a third of the stems back in May, which gives you two tones of blooms at any one time.

The stems and seedheads of sedum Autumn Joy are really robust, too, so you can leave them standing through winter. Deer and rabbits don’t touch the succulent leaves, which are a vibrant fresh green tone. Bees and butterflies love it, and it’ll grow pretty much anywhere as long as it has good drainage – while it will still grow fine in partial shade, full sun brings super-sturdy stems and the strongest color.

Generally sold as ‘Autumn Joy’, this plant goes by a handful of other names, so if you want to check you’re buying what you think you’re buying, it’s good to know that this hybrid stonecrop’s official name is now Hylotelephium x mottramianum ‘Herbstfeude’. Sedum 'Autumn Joy' plants are available from Nature Hills.

7. Aster ‘Raydons Favorite’

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun to light shade
• Grows 2-3 feet high and wide
• Flowers September to October

All aster varieties generally thrive on neglect, and ‘Raydons Favorite’ is particularly so. A lot of asters grow tall and, while they produce lots of flowers, those sprawling stems can get pretty untidy. Turns out that this aromatic aster is a little different, too, as it’s recently been reclassed as Symphotrichum oblongifolium – and thankfully, it’s a whole lot easier to grow than it is to pronounce.

What I love about this plant is that it peaks just as many other flowers in the garden are starting to fade, and powers through fall in a blaze of lavender daisies with cheery yellow centres. Deer and rabbits dislike its aromatic leaves, yet it’s a valuable source of late-season nectar for pollinators. It forms a neat, bushy mound that doesn’t need staking, and as long as it has good drainage so its roots aren’t sitting in soggy soil all through winter, will reliably return year after year.

Aster ‘Raydons Favorite’ plants are available from Woodies Garden Goods.

It's no coincidence that all these plants are commonly used by landscape designers. While their clients may have the money to pay for a swish garden design, they don't always have much gardening knowledge, so designers often reach for low-maintenance, highly tolerant plants that will survive, no matter what. So the added bonus of adding these hard-working flowering plants to your yard is that they'll bring a designer look without the associated cost.

All these low-maintenance plants can be planted now, and will bring color to your late-summer garden and into fall.

As our summers seem to get hotter every year, I've found myself rethinking the plants I grow. Instead of choosing varieties that simply survive the heat, I'm looking for ones that actually thrive in it – and reward me with color, fragrance and plenty of wildlife, even during the warmest spells.

That's why I'm always on the lookout for fragrant plants that do more than just look pretty. A beautiful perfume can completely transform a garden, especially if you spend summer evenings outdoors, and there's nothing better than catching the scent of flowers drifting across the garden on a warm breeze.

If you're searching for perfumed patio plants that can cope with rising temperatures while making your outdoor space feel like a Mediterranean escape, there is one heat-loving climber I'd happily recommend. Because, with its glossy evergreen foliage, masses of starry white blooms and an unforgettable fragrance, it's a plant that earns its place year after year.

The Heat-Loving Climber You Need To Try

No surprises here, but confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is the heat-loving climber that has been stealing the show in gardens everywhere this summer.

Although it isn't a true jasmine, its intensely sweet perfume is often compared to – and by some gardeners even preferred over – the fragrance of roses. On warm evenings, the scent drifts through the garden, making patios, pergolas and seating areas feel like an outdoor retreat.

Unlike some vigorous climbing plants, confederate jasmine (also known as star jasmine) is generally well behaved, making it easier to keep within bounds with a light trim after flowering. And it loves sunshine and warmth, making it an excellent choice for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 10.

(Image credit: Satura86 / Getty Images)

No surprises here, but this heat-loving climber grows happily in full sun or partial shade, although the strongest flowering and fragrance usually come from plants that receive at least six hours of sunlight each day.

Once established, confederate jasmine is also relatively drought tolerant. Regular watering during its first growing season helps it develop a strong root system, sure, but mature plants are capable of coping with periods of dry weather better than many flowering climbers.

If you live in a colder climate, don't rule it out entirely. Many gardeners successfully grow star jasmine in large containers that can be moved to a sheltered spot during winter.

Nature Hills Nursery Confederate Jasmine

Confederate Jasmine is a sensory masterpiece that transforms ordinary landscapes into fragrant retreats.

The heavenly fragrance isn't just for people to enjoy, either, as the nectar-rich flowers attract bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other beneficial pollinators (including your birth month bug, probably). Its dense foliage, too, can also provide valuable shelter for small birds, making it a triple threat.

There's lots you can do with a confederate jasmine. Train it over a pergola to create a scented canopy, or let it soften a plain fence or brick wall. It also performs beautifully around entrances, and it can even be grown as an evergreen ground cover on slopes or banks where its spreading stems help suppress weeds while creating a lush carpet of foliage.

Whichever location you choose, make sure the soil drains well, as confederate jasmine absolutely loathes sitting in waterlogged ground.

Shop Confederate Jasmine Now:

PERFECT PLANTS Confederate Jasmine Live Plant

Florida Foliage 3 Live Star Confederate Jasmine Plants

Flora's Market Confederate Jasmine (Includes Planting Kit)

For gardeners who want maximum impact without constant upkeep, star jasmine is hard to beat. Aside from occasional watering during prolonged dry spells and a light prune to keep growth tidy, it asks for very little in return (think a spring application of a balanced fertilizer and a layer of mulch).

Honestly, it's easy to see why so many gardeners consider star jasmine one of the best climbers for warm-climate gardens. Jump on the bandwagon, I say! Once it's in full bloom, you'll understand why so many people pause to enjoy its scent every time they walk past.

The idea is appealing: you let your plants “make friends” in the garden by planting different plant species close to each other so that they can offer identifiable benefits to one another. Often, the goal is to keep insect pests at bay. Sometimes one plant benefits; sometimes the benefit is mutual. And sometimes – all too often – the “pairing” doesn’t work well at all and pests overrun the protected plant.

It’s frustrating when companion planting doesn’t live up to its hype. But what’s a gardener to do? There’s a smarter strategy we’re excited about that scientists suggest will do a much more efficient job of keeping those insect pests from your favorite plants. We call it scent clustering, and we’re here to tell you about it.

Say Hello to Scent Clustering

In traditional companion planting, gardeners are urged to match a pest-repelling plant with a plant to be protected – and do this repeatedly throughout the garden. If you're new to the concept, then it's worth picking up a copy of The Old Farmer's Almanac Vegetable Gardener’s Handbook from Amazon.

The idea is to have the aromatic plants that pests don’t like scattered individually throughout the garden, close to the plants to be protected. Think of them as dancing, two by two, around the ballroom of the garden.

Scent clustering abandons this “one-on-one/two-by-two” approach. Instead, we can create a protective “wall” against insect pests by grouping tough, aromatic plants together. Experts suggest that this makes a more effective barrier against insect pests than interspersing them throughout the garden.

(Image credit: Alamy)Why Scent Clustering Deters More Pests

Have you ever noticed that the corner of the garden with two or three fragrant plants has a stronger, more compelling scent than an area with only one? In my garden in France, I have a rose bed filled with only fragrant cultivars, and recently added a jasmine vine on the fence behind it. The combined scent seems three times as powerful as the roses alone.

Grouping aromatic plants also amplified the effect of the scent – and it can be much more effective at deterring pests. Clustering strongly scented plants together may create a stronger "chemical landscape" that can help mask crop scents or confuse pests. Part of this is attributable to VOC communication.

As highlighted in this scientific study, plants release Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) in response to insect attacks. This VOC release is a way that plants communicate with neighboring plants. When insect-damaged plants communicate their situation, the undamaged plants nearby increase their own defenses – like aromatics – as if they were being attacked themselves.

(Image credit: Lena Gabrilovich / Shutterstock)Best Plants for Scent Clustering

Fragrant plants are the Amazons of the garden. They add beauty and joy but also bring the muscle to fight off insect pests. In addition to keeping pests away with their scents, aromatic herbs and flowers attract beneficial insects. Fragrant and aromatic plants release essential oils with volatile organic compounds. The VOCs communicate with other plants but also confuse insects, making it hard for them to find food.

Some plants have scents that bugs really cannot stand. These aromatic plants include: garlic, green onions, parsley, orange nasturtiums, chives, lavender, rosemary, basil, marigolds, and alliums. Others that make the list as effective for scent clustering are wormwood, scented geranium, santolina, and tansy. Creating a “wall” of the strongest aromatic pest confusers like yarrow, anise hyssop, onions, garlic, and mints in gardens helps keep pests away.

Shop Companion Planting Seed Bundles

Sow Right Seeds Insect & Pest Repellent Seed Collection

Organo Republic 18 Culinary Herbs Seeds Variety Pack

Home Grown Marigold Seeds Bulk Mix

(Image credit: Aloha_17 / Getty Images)Where to Position Scent Clusters in the Landscape

Generally, scent clusters of aromatics work best as perimeter planting. If you group them too near the vegetable garden, they can interfere with your crops' growth. Instead, create a pest-repellent hedge or aromatics around orchards and vegetable patches.

It also works well to plant pungent aromatic herbs near pathways in the garden. Their effectiveness increases when they spill over onto paving. The warming paving warms the foliage too, releasing the fragrant plant oils.

Succession Planting to Keep Scent Clusters Going

Now that you’ve identified your strongest aromatics and installed them in mixed clusters in the garden, the last thing you want is to have that “wall” crumble as the shortest-lived plants die back. As you lose plants, the scent diminishes, and the effect on insect pests also goes down.

The key to keeping the scent clusters going is succession planting. You may have already started with succession planting in the vegetable garden. Basically, this means you don’t just sow and forget. Instead, you sow rounds of seeds one after the other, to keep new crops coming in all summer long. This works especially well for crops like lettuce that grow fast and can get eaten fast. Instead of ending up with hundreds of heads of lettuce at once, you end up with a smaller amount that ripen sequentially.

You can use succession planting for your aromatic herbs as well. Whichever ones you decide to plant, just keep sowing the seeds every week or every other week to keep the herbs coming.

I'm a sucker for a full moon. Whether it's the Wolf Moon, the Strawberry Moon, or the Harvest Moon, I always find myself looking up and wondering how on earth our ancestors came up with such wonderfully evocative names.

The July full moon, however, has one of my favorites: the Thunder Moon. Thankfully, it isn't named as such because the moon itself summons dramatic thunderstorms (that would be very Greek mythos of it!).

Instead, the name comes from the fact that July has historically been one of the stormiest months of the year across much of North America, with spectacular thunder and lightning displays often accompanying the height of summer.

Preparing for The Thunder Moon

Considering it usually heralds the beginning of the stormy season, then, the Thunder Moon feels like the perfect reminder to give your garden a quick once-over before the next summer tempest rolls through.

Here are five simple jobs that could save you a lot of heartache later.

1. Secure Tall Plants

(Image credit: Franck Metois / Getty Images)

Summer storms can flatten a season's worth of hard work in a matter of minutes. Ahead of the Thunder Moon, then, take a few moments to check that tomatoes, climbing beans, dahlias, sunflowers, and other tall plants are properly supported.

Be sure to tighten loose ties, replace any that are digging into stems, and make sure stakes, cages, and trellises are firmly anchored in the ground. I promise it's much easier to prevent a plant from falling over than it is to rescue one after it's snapped.

Personally, I like to make life easy with myself and use something like these VELCRO Brand Adjustable Plant Ties.

2. Give Containers Some Shelter

(Image credit: Kschulze / Getty Images)

Potted plants and container gardens are often the first casualties of strong summer winds.

If severe weather is in the forecast, be sure, then, to move lightweight containers closer to the house, group smaller pots together for stability, and take down hanging baskets if particularly strong gusts are expected.

Honestly, even a few feet of extra shelter can make a surprising difference.

Shop Container Garden Essentials:

FoxFarm Happy Frog Potting Soil

A favorite with our very own Tyler Schuster, this has been amended with earthworm castings, bat guano, and aged forest products for nutrient-rich goodness.

ArtFamy Hanging Baskets for Plants

These sturdy hanging baskets use a coconut coir design, which makes for good air permeability and drainage.

Terrain Brass Snail Watering Can

Bold as brass, this watering can (and its cheeky snail friend) is a reproduction of a charming vintage find.

3. Mulch, Mulch, Mulch!

(Image credit: HannaTor / Shutterstock)

Mulch is often associated with drought, but it's just as valuable before heavy rain, making it an ideal Thunder Moon-themed garden task to crack on with.

A two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch is enough to help cushion the soil against torrential downpours, reducing erosion and preventing water from splashing soil-borne diseases onto plant leaves. It also helps retain moisture once the storm has passed and temperatures climb again.

Just remember to keep mulch a couple of inches away from plant stems and tree trunks.

4. Harvest Anything That's Ready

(Image credit: Dmitrii Marchenko / Getty Images)

If you've got ripe tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans, or summer squash, don't wait! Take the Thunder Moon at its dramatic word, as heavy rain can cause tomatoes to split, while strong winds can knock ripe fruit from the plant altogether.

Harvesting veggies before a storm means you'll get to enjoy it rather than finding it bruised or cracked on the ground the next day.

5. Check Your Drainage

One of the biggest risks during intense summer storms isn't the rain itself, but rather where that water ends up.

Clear leaves and debris from drains, gutters, and downspouts, and make sure water has somewhere to escape. If you know parts of your garden are prone to pooling after heavy rain, consider digging shallow channels to direct excess water away from vulnerable plants.

Make The Most Of Summer Storms:

The Rain Chain

Adorafur Rain Chain

A rain chain is a practical (and beautiful) way to collect rainwater for your garden.

The Rain Barrel

RTS Home Accents 50-Gallon Rain Barrel

This aesthetically pleasing rain barrel comes complete with a handy spigot.

The Bee Water Station

Bee Cups Bee Cups 5 Pack

Pop these in your garden and your thirsty pollinators will be sure to thank you.

Look, I get it; the Thunder Moon may be steeped in folklore, but its name is a timely reminder that summer weather can change in an instant. So, while none of us can stop a thunderstorm from rolling in (although wouldn't that be a nifty superpower?), spending just half an hour preparing your garden beforehand can make all the difference.

Secure your plants, harvest what's ready, check your drainage, and let the Thunder Moon be your annual cue to get your garden storm-ready... before nature puts it to the test. And, as an extra bonus, get into that 'when God gives you lemons' mindset and set up a rain barrel or two.

Hey, there's no point wasting free water, right?

July days are often scorching hot. You’re more likely to be hiding out inside than working in the garden, but your backyard birds don’t have any other options. This month can be tough on birds due to the extreme heat and drought conditions, but also because parents are feeding fledglings and young birds are learning how to survive.

Attracting birds to your backyard is a worthy goal, but it’s only the first step. You also need to ensure conditions are optimal for them during the hottest, driest part of the summer.

It doesn’t take expensive gear or a lot of time to improve your wildlife ecosystem. These six simple fixes will transform your yard into a safe summer refuge.

What Backyard Birds Need in July

Your backyard birds have a few basic needs that are especially important in summer:

• Fresh, clean, and cool water
• Reliable food sources
• Shade and shelter
• Safe places to rest

Summer visitors, like robins, cardinals, chickadees, house finches, mourning doves, hummingbirds, and more, need these resources more than ever. Adding to the challenges of heat and dry weather, many birds are actively feeding fledglings. Small changes to your yard now will help adults conserve energy and give fledglings a better chance of surviving the season.

1. Adding Moving Water Sources

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Clean water is a must for birds at any time, but especially in July when many natural sources dry up. They use water for drinking and cooling themselves. Birds are naturally drawn to moving water by its sound and appearance. Moving water in your yard will act like a magnet, guiding birds in the area to a much-needed water source.

A fountain is a great solution, but not strictly necessary if you don’t want the expense. A more cost-effective solution is to add a solar fountain insert to an existing bird bath, like this Mademax one from Amazon. Alternatively, add a wiggler, a little device you put in the water to agitate it and create a rippling surface that has the benefit of deterring mosquitoes from breeding.

Another option is to add a mister attachment to a garden hose, like this Homenote mister. The birds will be drawn to the mist. Place it under a shrub or tall perennials. The water will collect and then drop from the leaves, another attractant for birds.

2. Use Heat-Friendly Foods

(Image credit: Alamy)

Both adults and fledglings need a lot of energy this time of year, but the heat of July can spoil some of the foods you might normally use, like suet.

When feeding birds in summer, you need to switch to foods that stand up to the higher temperatures. Some good options include black oil sunflower seeds, hulled sunflower chips, white millet, unsalted peanuts, nyjer seeds for finches, and mealworms for bluebirds and wrens. Use smaller amounts of food and replenish more frequently to reduce the risk of spoilage.

Your backyard birds spend nearly all day collecting food in July to feed themselves and their fledglings. By providing heatproof food in one or more locations, you reduce the need to fly far or search for food. This helps adults conserve energy and better feed their young.

Best Summer Bird Food

Kaytee Songbird Wild Bird Seed Food

Wagner's Black Oil Sunflower Seed

Kaytee Shelled Peanuts

3. Prevent Deadly Window Collisions

(Image credit: Greggory DiSalvo / Getty Images)

Any bird can be easily confused by the reflection of trees and sky on windows and is at risk of a collision. Young birds that are just learning to fly in July are at greater risk. Collisions with windows are often fatal for birds, both old and young, so take steps to keep them safe. Even if a bird seems fine after a strike, it might have serious internal injuries.

Window decals are inexpensive and simple to use. They adhere to windows and break up the confusing reflections. You can find decals specifically designed for this, like these attractive Anti-Collision Window Bird Stickers from Amazon, which can be applied and removed without leaving a residue on the glass. Another option is to hang strings or cords outside windows.

Adding elements to windows is one of the easiest ways to save birds in your yard. You can also position feeders in such a way as to prevent strikes. Keep food sources either within three feet of the window or more than 30 feet away from it.

4. Create Safe, Low-Lying Water Sources for Fledglings

(Image credit: Clark Warren / Getty Images)

As fledglings leave the nest, they spend a lot of time on the ground. Until they learn to fly, they can benefit from access to ground-level water. If you only have pedestal bird feeders, consider adding some shallow dishes of water or puddling areas on the ground.

Any shallow dish will work, but an easy solution you probably already have on hand is a plant pot saucer. Like this DIY bee water station, you just put a layer of pebbles in it, add water, and set it in a safe place. Water at ground level can put birds at risk for predation, so set it near or partly under a shrub so they can take cover as needed. If you have cats, keep them indoors during fledgling season and keep dogs leashed when in the yard.

If you want to watch the baby birds in action, then place a Birdfy smart bird bath on the ground, which sends 2K videos to your phone when they use it.

5. Create Cool-Down Zones

(Image credit: Kurt Strickner / Getty Images)

Birds can easily overheat as temperatures soar in July. You can help them cool down with strategic areas designed to provide shade and shelter. Any shady area will allow birds to lower their body temperatures, but the best areas are also safe and allow them to rest without being too exposed to predators.

Native shrubs provide some of the best shade for birds. The dense, low growth of a shrub is a safe spot and might also provide a food source for some species. If you have a patio, consider adding some potted shrubs near your bird feeders. Shrubs are also helpful near water sources, so birds can take cover if a predator is nearby.

Other garden elements that provide cooling shade include trellises and arbors with vines, small trees, layered beds with shrubs, perennials, and annuals at different heights, and stick piles. Provide several shady areas throughout your yard.

6. Add Ice to Your Bird Bath

(Image credit: Bonnie Taylor Barry / Shutterstock)

Shallow bird bath water can get warm, or even hot, quickly in July. Birds prefer cooler water to get relief from the heat. In fact, they might not use your bird bath at all if the water is too warm. Ice is an easy way to keep water sources from overheating.

Freeze a big block of water using a yogurt container or Tupperware. Add one block of ice to the bird bath each morning. You can even add berries and seeds to the ice, which birds can access for food as it melts.

Alternatively, you can freeze water in an empty pop bottle and float it in the bird bath to lower the water’s temperature. Whichever method you choose to cool it down, be sure to clean out your bird bath regularly and to add fresh, clean water every day.

July Bird Care Essentials

Birdfy Smart Bird Bath With Camera

Youvip Metal Roof Bird Feeder

Mademax 1w Solar Bird Bath Fountain Pump

July is one of the most demanding times of year for birds. Between high temperatures, dry puddles, and hungry fledglings, it can be stressful. Just a few thoughtful and inexpensive changes to your yard can make it much friendlier for your favorite backyard birds. Your outdoor space becomes more than just a garden. It’s a refuge for native wildlife.

Think you need an impressive country estate to help pollinators? Not so! Your perfectly ordinary backyard garden or urban patio can be enough to host a thriving ecosystem if you use smaller, high-reward plants. These compact, high-impact container champions offer massive value without requiring a football-field-sized space to call their own.

Anyone who has the desire to offer bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds the nectar they need can do so in a pollinator garden, no matter how diminutive the space. We’ve found the perfect plants to get you on your way – all of them small but mighty.

Choosing Pint-Size Pollinator Superheroes

When it comes to putting in a pollinator garden, think containers. These “pocket ecosystems” are ideal for smaller nectar-rich plants for obvious reasons: the shorter plants won’t get shadowed or elbowed out by taller or pushier rivals. And it’s easier to give plants in containers the soil (moist and well-draining) and the sunlight that they require. You can even move the containers around the patio as the seasons turn.

If you choose compact plants with tubular or open-stamen flowers, it’s easier for your pollinator friends to get their breakfast. If you wish to attract a specific pollinator species, pick the flower shape they prefer, e.g. deep, tube-shaped blossoms for hummers. But don’t be surprised to see a variety of different pollinators arrive.

Summer Container Planting Essentials

Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix

This special formula is designed to absorb up to a third more water than basic potting soil and feeds plants for up to 6 months.

August Grove Set of 3 Pottery Clay Planters With Ribbed Detailing

This trio of handcrafted planters adds a charming touch to the patio, with the different sizes creating a visual rhythm in the space.

Legigo 19 Lbs Organic Leca Clay Pebbles for Plants

Try topping pots with clay pebbles to help retain moisture in the potting soil in summer.

1. 'Blue Boa' Agastache (Anise Hyssop)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

‘Blue Boa’ is an Agastache hybrid, offering showier flowers and better winter hardiness than the species plant. This cultivar, available from Plant Addicts, is loved for its aromatic leaves and frothy, lilac-blue blooms that attract the entire range of pollinators, from bees to butterflies to hummingbirds.

These bold, attractive plants are hardy in USDA zones 5-9 and need a sunny location and well-draining soil. Never plant any Agastache in clay soil or soil that retains water.

‘Blue Boa’ plants can grow to 3 feet (90 cm) high and half that wide. The pollen-rich flowers grow on 6-foot (2 m) terminal spikes, and the long bloom show lasts from June through September. Consider ‘Blue Boa’ for patio butterfly gardens or cottage gardens.

2. Dwarf Pentas (Pentas lanceolata)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Dwarf pentas – or Egyptian starcluster plants – top out at 1–3 feet (30–90 cm), forming a dome of lush green foliage. Popular varieties include the Lucky Star and Star Bright series – you can pick up a three-pack of Lucky Star plants in 'lavender', 'red' and 'pink' from National Plant Network at Walmart.

While they are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11, dwarf pentas are often grown as annuals in cooler climes. Plant in a full sun location with good drainage.

The upright plant is topped by star-shaped flowers in a multitude of shades that range from white to crimson. The Egyptian starcluster flowering period is long, from summer through early fall, and the nectar attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

3. Large Firecracker Plant (Cuphea 'Vermillionaire')

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

The dense flowers of the large firecracker plant – bright orange tubular blossoms – are a magnet for pollinators, including butterflies and hummingbirds.

Available at Lowe's, Vermillionaire Large Firecracker Plant has a mounding habit and grows to 28 inches (70 cm) tall and almost as wide in both garden beds and containers.

It’s a low-maintenance gem if planted in full sun with well-draining soil. It is hardy in USDA zones 8-11, but is grown as an annual across most of the country.

4. Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When a plant is this easy to grow, you suspect it may be invasive, and sweet alyssum is considered invasive in some areas, where it is best kept to patio pots. This plant forms shallow-rooted mats of foliage with mounds (to 9 inches tall) of well-branched stems with lance-shaped, gray-green leaves.

It is hardy in zones 5–9 but is often grown as an annual. It needs a full sun location in cooler climates and partial sun in warmer climates.

Sweet alyssum is easy to grow from seed – pick up a four-variety pack from Seed Needs via Amazon.

From spring to early summer, the foliage is completely covered with masses of tiny, 4-petaled flowers (to 1” long). The flowers smell like honey and attract many pollinators, including bees, flower flies, stingless wasps, and butterflies. Its abundance of blossoms and long bloom period make it a particularly good nectar plant for beneficial insects.

5. Greek Oregano (Origanum vulgare var. hirtum)

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Yep, the aromatic, pungent leaves of this herb are the ones that you toss into your pasta sauce – usually after they are dried. But did you know that Greek oregano also produces pretty pink, mauve, or white flowers? Flowers appear in summer and early autumn and are compelling to bees and butterflies.

It's best to grow Greek oregano from seed, and you can pick up a pack from Isla's Garden Seed Company via Amazon.

Green oregano thrives in USDA zones 5-8 and grows to about 11 feet (30 cm) tall. It needs a sunny location and well-draining soil. It is remarkably drought-tolerant and free of insects and diseases.

6. Dwarf Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

(Image credit: Alamy)

We all know and love coneflowers, and compact versions offer a dwarf stature and a long summer bloom. Atop the rigid stems, you will find lovely coneflowers, daisy-like blossoms circling around the bronze central cones. Do these attract pollinators? Of course they do. Look for butterflies, hummingbirds, and bees (that come for the nectar in summer) and birds (that come for the seeds in winter).

Good dwarf coneflower varieties include Kim’s Knee High, Tweety, and Sombrero Poco Hot Coral coneflower, available at Woodies Garden Goods,

Coneflowers are hardy in USDA zones 3-8 and can grow to 2 feet (60 cm) tall and wide. They bloom all summer, from June to August, and work well in a meadow, native plant garden, or wildflower garden. Plant in a full or partial sun location in well-draining soil.

7. Calamint (Calamintha nepeta)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A member of the notorious mint family, calamint is an herbaceous perennial in USDA zones 5–7, growing to 18 inches (45 cm) tall and wide. It forms a dense mat that seems to spread indefinitely, with upright leafy flowering stems that rise above. The leaves are aromatic while the flowers are showy: white tubular blossoms that keep on keeping on from June to September.

Calamint, available to buy online at Woodies Garden Goods, is one of the best plants at attracting pollinators! It is appealing to hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies, including Monarchs!

Calamint requires sun and well-draining soil, ideally moist. It shows its mint connections with its capacity to spread this way and every way. The plants are tough and accept drought, dry soil, and rocky soil.

8. 'Lilliput' Zinnia Mix (Zinnia elegans ‘Lilliput’)

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

If you love zinnia plants but would prefer that they were smaller, take a look at the ‘Lilliput’ seed mix – available from Home Grown at Amazon. These fast-growing flowers are semi-dwarfed, topping out at 24 inches (60 cm) tall. They are bushy with wide growth and oodles of round, pompom flowers in a wide variety of solid shades.

Lilliput is an early-blooming zinnia, with flowers appearing in July and continuing to bloom through October. This is an outstanding and easy-care annual with bright flowers in deep red, pink, white, and purple that bees and butterflies love. Plant these zinnias in a full sun location with well-draining soil.

If you’ve got a yard full of hedges, or even some particularly stubborn ones, the Husqvarna Hedge Master 320iHD60 Hedge Trimmer (320i) is made for you.

Don’t let the fact that it’s battery powered fool you; this thing will cut anything and everything you can throw at it. I trimmed my own hedges, including some fairly large branches, as well as my neighbor’s and my parent’s hedges (as a one-time courtesy) and nothing slowed the 320i down.

The 360i is part of Husqvarna’s MAX battery series of tools, which also includes their new Combi Switch multi-tool, as they branch out into the competing space of electric hedge trimmers. The idea is to use the same battery system to power a whole range of outdoor tools and in this case, the 360i comes with the company’s Bli22 battery and charger. The long cutting length means it can get to even the most hard-to-reach places, and the three-position handle makes for easy angle cutting so you’re not breaking your wrists trying to twist the thing.

It also comes with the ability to unjam the blades at the push of a button, so you don’t ever have to worry about getting caught or stuck somewhere and your blade snapping. All the power and features of the Hedge Master make it ideal for even the toughest hedges, but all this makes it fairly heavy so just be ready to take some breaks if using for longer periods.

Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 Hedge Trimmer: price & availability

You can get the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360i from Husqvarna directly, from your local Husqvarna dealer, or from resellers such as Lowe’s, Amazon, and others.

To get one bundled with a battery an charger will set you back $319, but sometimes we’ve seen it for as low as $299. If you’ve already got a compatible battery, you can pick up just the tool itself for $229. This puts it definitely towards the higher end of its competitors, but if you need to be able to cut through just about hedge, you can’t go wrong.

Score: 4.5 out of 5

Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 Hedge Trimmer: First impressions

The first thing I noticed was that the box itself seemed to be a bit more dinged up than I’d expect. My only assumption here is that since mine is a review device, it could quite possible have been a returned item due to the damage of the box. I can’t say for sure, but I would hope assume that most first-time purchase boxes would be in better shape. It also could entire have happened during transit, but either way, it arrived with some dings to the box.

Once inside the box, I was pleasantly surprised at the lack of plastic and Styrofoam present. Some of the pieces had their own plastic bags, but for the most part everything in the packaging was cardboard, which was nice to see. It was also nice that there was essentially no assembly required. You can quickly insert the included option sweeper on top of the blade if you like, but that’s all you would need to do. I also very much appreciated that they included hardware to mount the battery charger to the wall if desired. Other battery-powered tools I’ve purchased did not include that.

After I had it out of the box and got a good look at it, it was clear to see that the 360i means business. The teeth are large and sharp and it’s clear this thing is ready to work.

Future / Jason CockerhamFuture / Jason CockerhamFuture / Jason CockerhamHusqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60: Design

The Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 is extremely easy to use. The large handles are easy to grasp, especially while wearing gloves, and the D-shaped forward handle makes it easy to slide your hand around as you turn the trimmer when changing cutting angles. The safety button built-in the forward handle covers the entire length of the handle so you don’t ever have to take your hand off when adjusting. While the rear handle doesn’t rotate for seamlessly switching cutting angles like on some competitor models, “tri-handle” still makes it fairly easy to rotate quickly.

The large cutting blade certainly helps reach the trickier spots, but that does mean the whole thing is quite large. You’ll need to reserve plenty of space in your garage or tool shed for it. Also, while not as heavy as a gas-powered hedge trimmer, the 360i is still quite heavy, especially for prolonged periods or higher up places. It’s not necessarily a deal breaker, but if you don’t need all the power of the 360i, you could certainly find something smaller and lighter.

(Image credit: Future / Jason Cockerham)

The battery operation does allow for adjustable speeds, however. Just above the power button on the handle is another button that adjusts the cutting speed letting you opt for more power when you need it and more battery life when you don’t. Next to the speed controls is a release button that will open the teeth allowing any stuck branches to fall out; no more jammed blade.

Score: 4.5 out of 5

Husqvarna Hedge Master 320iHD60 Cordless Hedge Trimmer: key specs

Model no:

320iHD60

Blade length:

24 in.

Cutting size:

Up to 1 in.

Cutting speed:

3,800 cut/min

Fuel

Batter - BLi22, 36V / 4.0 Ah

Weight:

8lbs (without battery)

Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60: Performance

The Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 absolutely lives up to its name. No matter what I tried to cut with it, it sliced through it cleanly like a hot knife through butter. I started on a few small, rounded shrubs we have and was able to give them a nice trim in a couple of minutes.

As they are about the height of our garage, this is really where the large size and weight of the 360i made an impact. It almost became a bit unwieldy on such small shrubs. I was certainly feeling it after a couple of minutes, but luckily it didn’t take me long and this hedge trimmer is not designed for such small bushes. To get your money’s worth, you need to take on some larger shrubs.

So that’s what I did.

(Image credit: Future / Jason Cockerham)

Next, I tackled our much larger shrub on the other side of the house and appreciated even more the power and versatility of the Hedge Master. Trimming this hedge has taken me as long as half an hour in the past doing it by hand, but now I can knock it out in less than 10 minutes.

(Image credit: Future / Jason Cockerham)

I also cut an entire row of my neighbor’s waist-high hedges and again was thoroughly impressed with how quickly and neatly I was able to do it. Not only did the Hedge Master cut through everything fast, it left clean, precise cuts, almost as if done by professionals. On some of the thicker spots in the hedges I cranked up the cutting speed and whipped through them with no problem. I even cut through some branches that were fairly thick and never had an issue.

I was pleased to see that battery life was never an issue either. Granted, I wasn’t using it for hours at a time, but most people should not have any trouble trimming their hedges in one charge. The LED indicator on the battery is helpful for keeping track of how much juice you’ve got left.

Once you’re done for the day, there’s really no way to easily disassemble or collapse the Hedge Master so you’ll just have to make room in your garage or tool shed. I do recommend covering the blades between uses with the included blade cover, particularly if you’ve got kids around.

Blade cover to protect the blade (and your fingers!) (Image credit: Future / Jason Cockerham)

Before you put it away, it’s a good idea to make sure there are any leaves or wood chips stuck in the blades and that could damage them over time. Other than a gentle cleaning every now and then sharpening the blades from time to time should be all you need to do.

Score: 5 out of 5

Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60: User reviews

Customer reviews of the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 all echo one another, all speaking highly about the battery-powered tool. It's worth noting that the majority of the reviews I'm reading are incentivized, and the reviews appear across multiple sites; I'll highlight anything standout.

Looking direct on the Husqvarna site it has overall scored 4.8-out-of-5 stars. Reviewers rave about the long battery-life, and how easy and safe it is to use. There is a comment about the cost of batteries for it, though, and the size being bigger than expected. Still, from what I can see, even those three reviews who gave it four stars speak well about it.

Over on reseller sites, Amazon customers have given it an overall rating of 4.6-out-of-five stars. One reviewer says "Great product for the value, I would recommend this to others needing a professional type hedger" whereas another said "This Husqvarna Hedge Master trimmer is exactly what I was looking for". There is a negative comment, though, which is about the lack of power but this seems to be an unfortunate isolated incident. And on Lowe's it scored 4.5-out-of-5 stars with an independent reviewer noting that the trimmer is great to what they had before, but it arrived in a wet box.

Should you buy the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60?Score card

Attribute

Notes

Score

Price & availability

A bit pricey but worth if you have the need. It comes with a battery and is easy to find.

★★★★½

Design

Well built with useful features, best for larger, thicker hedges

★★★★½

Performance

Exceptional trimming performance with plenty of battery life

★★★★★

Buy it if...

You want something easy to use

One of the biggest benefits of battery-powered tools is that they startup instantly without any hassle.

You want to cut all the things

The Hedge Master is quite appropriately named. With its adjustable cutting speeds, it can handle even the trickiest hedges and even branches up to an inch thick.

You want something durable and eco-friendly

Using battery power is typically better for the environment and the Husqvarna build quality is among the best.

Don't buy it if...

You don’t need a lot of power

If you don’t have a lot of hedges, or anything particularly thick, you could certainly do with something a bit smaller and lighter. Not to mention less expensive.

You're on a budget

The Hedge Master is among the pricier hedge trimmers we’ve tested. There are plenty of other good options available for much less.

You don't want to rely on batteries

There are certainly some cases where you would need the power and reliability of a gas-powered hedge trimmer. In that case, you'll need to look elsewhere.

How does the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 Hedge Trimmer compare?

Overall, the Husqvarna Hedge Master performed tremendously during my testing and offers a lot of value for the money. But as with everything, it’s not perfect.

Lucky for us, Husqvarna isn’t the only hedge trimmer manufacturer in town. If you only have a few small hedges and a good extension cord, the Greenworks 24V is a solid, low-cost option.

For those with taller shrubs or trees that need a good trimming, the DEWALT 20V is well-made.

How I tested the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60

I tested as many different types of hedges as I had access to for this review. I started with two small, ball-shaped shrubs that stand about head height outside my garage. Next, I attacked a rather large rounded hedge on the corner of our house that had not been trimmed in over two years. Lastly, I trimmed several rows of waist-high rectangular hedges at a few different locations.

Oh we know that the fourth of July is all about family barbecues, drinks in the sunshine and fireworks galore – but between all that, may we humbly suggest you spare five minutes to do some shopping for your garden? Because there are some absolutely cracking July 4 garden deals to be had!

We've scoured the stores to find all the very best garden deals that are half price or better, and can be delivered to your door, so you don't have to take too much time out between star-spangled spritzers. And honestly, we were surprised to discover so many unmissable deals. It must be somebody's birthday or something…

Let's cut to the chase, shall we, and shop some awesome gardening deals!

Garden Bargains Under $10

Chop chop!

Lightweight Pruning Shears

With super-sharp blades, these professional-grade snips are super for deadheading, pruning houseplants and harvesting herbs.

Easy sowing

Seed Starting Tray

Now’s a great time to sow biennials for next year’s flowers, and Burpee's starter trays have a smart watering system and flexible pop-out cells.

Banish pesky flies

Outdoor Fly Trap

Simply add water to activate this hanging trap which is capable of catching up to 20,000 flies, then close the top cone and drop into the trash can.

Stylish Finds

Boho bargain

Wicker Planter Stand Set

Designed for indoor use with study wooden bases and woven bamboo baskets, this black boho set will set off green houseplant foliage nicely.

goes with everything

Alegre Indoor/Outdoor Rug

Measuring 8’ x 5’, this indoor/outdoor rug is made from a durable 90% polypropylene, 10% polyester mix and is weather-, stain- and UV-resistant.

9 colors available

Clitheroe Adirondack Chair

Available in 9 appealing colors, this Adirondack chair is made from wood-grain durable HDPE, folds flat for easy storage, and supports up to 360lbs.

Gardening Goodies

it's a snip

Garden Pruning Shears Set

These aren’t the finest-quality pruners but they have stainless steel blades and non-slip rubber grips, as spare pruners they’re a real snip at this price!

Metal worktop

Gracie Oaks Potting Bench

Crafted from fir wood with a metal top, this handsome potting bench has a rack, drawer, cupboard and three side hooks for handy storage.

Folds for storage

Best Choice Utility Cart

A utility cart has so many uses in the garden, and this has an adjustable handle, rugged swivel wheels and carries up to 150lbs.

Great Gardening Gifts

Handsome birdbath

Pedestal Bird Bath

Made from durable resin with a copper verdigris effect, this 28”-high pedestal birdbath has a bowl that measures a generous 20” x 2”.

Plant-now bulbs

75 Perennial Gladioli Bulbs

Plant these bulbs in July and they'll take around 90 days to bloom for spectacular fall color. Hardy in zones 7-10, treat as annuals in zones 3-6.

Starter Kit

10-Piece Gardening Set

This 10-piece set includes a hand fork, rake, weeder, trowel and transplanter, pruners, mister and gardening gloves in a carrying tote with handy pockets.

Outdoor Living Lovelies

Elegant spire

Metal Garden Arbor

A stylish powder-coated metal arbor at this price? Yes please! Measuring H9.5’ x L4.1’ x D1.3’, this self-assembly (tools included) arch is a good size, too.

stunning lawn art

2 Metal Crane Garden Statues

Each of these rustproof metal crane sculptures measures H35” x W11” x D8”, creating a striking garden feature. U-shaped stakes for lawn stability included.

on-trend tones

96 Gallon Storage Box

An appealing PE rattan fade-resistant outer, waterproof zipper liner and lockable wheels make this spacious storage box a great buy.

Room to Grow

Great for veggies

2 Galvanized Raised Beds

Each measuring 8’ x 4’ x 1’, these galvanized raised beds have open bases so are perfect for raising vegetables and are reinforced with central rods.

Perfect for a rose

Trellised Metal Arch

Made from durable, rustproof powder-coated steel, this self-assembly arch (tools are included) measures H81" x W81" x D20.5".

super for herbs

Best Choice Metal Raised Bed

Measuring 4' x 2' x 1', this powder-coated steel self-assembly raised bed can be put together without tools and offers ample growing space.

Stylish Storage

Handy side table

WaterProof Deck Box

This textured polyresin side table with faux wood top doubles as waterproof storage – perfect for a last-minute tidy-up when unexpected guests arrive.

By-the-backdoor shed

Wooden Garden Cabinet

With adjustable shelves and a section for storing long-handled tool, this attractive vertical shed measures a perfect H63” x W27” x D17”.

Garden cabinet

Modernluxe Potting Bench

Styled like a kitchen dresser, this striking cabinet is made of fir wood and has anti-tip ground nails and multiple storage options.

Handy Garden Tools

tidy up leaves

Cordless Leaf Blower

This cordless leaf blower has two speeds of 80mph and 145mph and comes with two batteries and a charger for up to 40 minutes of operation.

Level your lawn

Lawn Leveling Rake

Fitted with a 67”-long rod and anti-slip handle, this metal lawn levelling rake has a 36” x 10” spreading plate and can be disassembled for easy storage.

get greener grass

Electric Lawn Scarifier

With three height positions, this removes and gathers moss and dead grass from your lawn, leaving you with a greener, healthier sward.

Time to Relax!

cozy toes

Indoor/Outdoor Rug

Add Mediterranean style to your deck or patio in seconds with this 7’6” x 5’3” polypropylene indoor/outdoor rug that’s weather- and fade-resistant.

Loungers for sunlovers

Nestl Polyresin Lounger Set

Available in five colors including black, forest green and gray, this set of two sun loungers with adjustable backrests are made from wood-grain polypropylene.

Room for two

Brazilian-Style Hammock

With a steel frame, tightly woven cotton-blend sling and handy carrying bag, this hammock accommodates two people or 450lbs, and disassembles for storage.

Water Deal!

irrigation kit

Drip Irrigation System Kit

With 16 360° adjustable copper nozzles and and bendable drip emitter rods, this home irrigation system has quick-connect components for fast set-up.

glows at night

4-Tier Water Fountain

This plug-and-go 23”-high faux-stone water feature has a 9.7’ power cord and is made from resin and fiberglass and is suitable for indoor and outdoor use.

So strong

100' Garden Hose

This kink-free, lightweight but heavy-duty hose is made from reinforced polymer and anodized aluminum fittings to stand up to high-pressure, year-round use.

In spring and early summer, rose care is all about encouraging new and rapid growth. By July, it’s more about survival. This can be a tough time for roses as temperatures soar and conditions dry. Stress can lead to reduced flowering, pests, and disease getting a foothold.

Good rose care now, during this critical period, is all about keeping them healthy in tough conditions. These simple but important July tasks will help them survive, thrive, and keep flowering through the summer. And what’s the biggest mistake you can make to halt repeat blooms? Check out task number one below.

1. Deadhead Spent Blooms

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

Repeat-blooming roses produce a gorgeous flush of abundant flowers in late spring and early summer. If you treat them right, they’ll do it again, but July care is critical. The biggest mistake you can make is getting lazy about deadheading or not doing it correctly.

Deadheading roses sends a signal to your plant that it’s not done making flowers yet, stimulating another round of blooms. The correct way to do this is to make a clean cut just above the first set of five leaflets. If your roses grow in clusters, cut off each individual flower as it fades.

Make sure to use clean, sharp shears to prevent disease spread and stem damage. Fiskars' bypass pruning shears, available on Amazon, are a good budget-friendly pick.

It’s better to deadhead regularly rather than waiting for all of the flowers to fade. Check on your bushes every few days and trim off any spent flowers that you see. This one simple chore will keep your roses blooming all summer.

2. Water Deeply

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

The next most important thing you can do to keep your roses happy, healthy, and blooming is to keep the soil moist. July in many gardens is hot with minimal rainfall. Roses need an inch of water a week, so if it’s not raining, you must provide the water.

The best way to water roses in summer is to water deeply once or twice a week rather than shallowly every day. Deep watering encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, where it’s cooler. Water with a hose or drip irrigation – this Carparthen kit from Amazon will get you started. Avoid overhead watering, as getting leaves wet encourages fungal disease.

How frequently you give your roses a deep watering depends on several factors. Increase the frequency during very hot or dry conditions. You should also water container roses more often, possibly every day, depending on the weather.

3. Keep the Mulch Fresh

(Image credit: Alamy)

Mulch is a must-have for roses in summer. There are multiple benefits to keeping a clean, two- to three-inch (5–7.5 cm) layer of mulch around rose bushes. The first is that it keeps the soil cool, which helps reduce plant stress.

Mulching around a rose bush also helps retain soil moisture, which is critical during a hot, dry summer. Covering the soil reduces the risk of fungal spores splashing up and onto leaves during watering or rain. Finally, a good layer of mulch helps keep weeds at bay.

July is a good time to make sure the mulch layer around your roses is deep enough and clean. Add more or replace degraded mulch as needed. Always keep the mulch a few inches away from the rose stems, as piling it up there can actually contribute to disease and rot.

You can use straw or shredded bark, but coconut husk is also a good option, like Back to the Roots' Organic Expanding Coconut Husk Mulch.

4. Feed, But Lightly

(Image credit: Knock Out Roses)

Roses are notoriously heavy feeders. Fertilizing roses is important for healthy growth and ongoing flowering. You probably started feeding your roses in spring, which is the time to feed heavily to promote new growth. In July, you should keep feeding roses to keep them healthy but not so heavily that they put out a lot of new growth during hot, often dry weather.

Stick with a balanced fertilizer in July, like 10-10-10. You can also look for a rose-specific product, like Miracle-GRO Water Soluble Rose Plant Food, and follow the label instructions.

Water your roses deeply after applying the fertilizer to reduce the risk of stress. If your garden has been going through a major heat wave or drought, skip the fertilizer for now and focus on watering. You can resume feeding once temperatures ease up.

5. Keep an Eye on Pests and Diseases

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Rose pests and diseases often take root more readily when plants are stressed. The stress of July heat, humidity, and dry soil means you need to keep a careful eye on your rose bushes. Look for aphids, spider mites, Japanese beetles, black spot, and powdery mildew.

If you do see pests, start with the least damaging method of control, like a spray of water, and, if needed, move on to insecticidal soaps or other pest control products. For signs of disease, tidy up by removing and disposing of any affected leaves. Clean up the ground around the roses to prevent disease spread. Move on to chemical fungicides only if necessary.

BioAdvanced All-In-One Rose and Flower Plant Care Spray provides good protection against pests and diseases.

July Rose Care Essentials

Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears

Miracle-Gro Water-Soluble Rose Plant Food

Bioadvanced All-In-One Rose and Flower Plant Care Spray

While early summer is a growth period for roses, think of July care as maintenance. Now is the time to protect your roses and encourage more flowers, not to trigger a flush of new growth. Focus on water, deadheading, light feeding, mulch, and pest and disease control to get the most out of your plants.

Confession time: I have spent the past week desperately trying to keep both myself and my garden alive, and my efforts have made me realize that heatwaves have a funny way of making us panic. .. often in a way that does more harm than good.

During periods of extreme heat, plants go into survival mode. Instead of focusing on producing new growth, they're conserving water and protecting themselves from stress. That means the way you care for your garden during a heatwave should look a little different than it does the rest of the summer.

I get it, obviously; the moment temperatures climb, it's tempting to reach for the hose, trim away anything that looks dead, and give struggling plants a dose of fertilizer in the hope of helping them bounce back. All of those well-intentioned efforts, though, can and will make matters worse.

Gardening Mistakes That Can Kill Plants During a Heatwave

When temperatures soared recently, I set to work, And, when my husband (a professional gardener) got home, I proudly told him all of the wonderful things I had done to keep our plants alive and thriving in the heat.

Cue him lovingly, albeit very wearily, branding me a menace. Because, as it turns out, I had committed three cardinal sins when it comes to gardening in a heatwave...

1. Watering Incorrectly

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

When your plants start looking droopy in the afternoon sun, it's only natural to want to grab the hose immediately. But watering in the middle of the day really isn't the most effective approach.

In the heat of the afternoon, more water is lost to evaporation before it has a chance to soak into the soil and reach plant roots. Instead, the best time to water plants is early in the morning, when temperatures are cooler and plants have time to absorb moisture before the day's heat sets in.

Rather than watering little and often, give plants a deep soak that encourages roots to grow further into the soil, where moisture lasts longer. Water at the base of the plant instead of wetting the foliage, and remember that containers and hanging baskets may still need an additional watering later in the day during prolonged heat.

Shop Garden Watering Essentials:

Terrain Heritage Garden Hose

Available in three eye-popping hues, this hose is here to do a job AND look good doing it.

Know Before You Grow

XLUX Long Probe Soil Moisture Meter

A 16-inch probe allows you to easily measure soil moisture throughout your garden beds.

Terrain Daffodil Copper Rain Chain

Rain harvesting is already the chicest trend of all (who doesn't love to grow sustainably), but this cute AF rain chain takes things to a whole new level.

2. Fertilizing Stressed Plants

(Image credit: Oliver Helbig / Getty Images)

It's easy to assume that a struggling plant needs feeding, but in very hot weather, fertilizer can actually add to its stress. In fact, many experts say that this is one of those common garden mistakes that can kill plants during a heatwave.

When temperatures are extremely high, plants naturally slow their growth to conserve energy. Fertilizer encourages fresh, tender growth, which requires even more water and is particularly vulnerable to scorching in hot weather. Applying fertilizer to dry soil can also increase the risk of root burn.

If your plants are looking stressed by the heat, focus on keeping them properly watered instead. Once temperatures return to normal and plants begin actively growing again, you can resume your regular feeding schedule.

3. Pruning away scorched leaves

(Image credit: Future - Amy Draiss)

I have a habit of picking at things (woe betide any split ends that appear in my hair; they will never be able to survive my obsessive snapping fingers). Still, while brown, crispy leaves aren't exactly attractive, we should resist the urge to prune them off straight away.

Although damaged foliage may no longer look healthy, it can still provide valuable shade for stems, fruit, and developing leaves underneath. Removing any plant sunburn during a heatwave can actually expose the rest of the plant to even more intense sunlight, increasing the risk of sunscald and further stress.

Unless a branch is dead, diseased, or creating a safety hazard, it's usually best to wait until cooler weather arrives before doing any significant pruning. Once the heatwave has passed, you can remove damaged growth and allow fresh new shoots to take over.

Try Slow Watering During Heatwaves:

The Olla Company Classic Olla Watering Pot With Lid

Planning a long vacation? The makers of this olla say you can combine it with upcycled water or wine bottles for extended watering.

Back to the Roots Self-Watering Terracotta Olla Pot

Built to support the needs of two large plants over a long weekend, this budget-friendly olla pot is a brilliant investment.

GARDENBRO 4 Pcs Ollas Terracotta Watering Pots

One self-confessed plant killer has heaped praise on this olla kit, insisting they only need to water once a week with it in situ.

Instead of trying to fix heat-stressed plants, focus on reducing the stress they're under. My husband swears by a thick layer of mulch can help keep soil cooler and reduce moisture loss, and delaying planting or transplanting until temperatures drop is the best way to give new plants a much better chance of establishing successfully.

Basically, heatwaves can be tough on gardens, but they don't have to spell disaster. Sometimes the best thing you can do is resist the urge to overcare for your plants. Be more chill. Do less!

Honestly, if you water wisely, avoid unnecessary pruning and fertilizing, and let your garden ride out the heat, your plants will often recover far better than you might expect once things cool down. Probably better than you if you forget that all-important suncream!

Look, I’m a gardening writer. I know the theory. I can tell you when to prune, when to feed, and when to leave well alone. And yet, when it comes to deadheading in my own garden, I’m embarrassed to admit that I turn into someone who is, frankly, a bit timid with the snips.

Enter my husband: a professional gardener with two decades of experience under his belt, who is both infuriatingly knowledgeable and completely fearless with a pair of pruners. He also, I should add, thinks I’m almost painfully cautious when deadheading.

Yes, whenever he spots me deadheading roses or salvias, he'll quietly take the secateurs from my hands before proceeding to cut what feels like an alarming amount off the plant. I stand there internally wondering whether I should be calling the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Plants.

Stop Being So Timid When Deadheading

In the interests of settling our long-running deadheading debate once and for all, I cornered him after work while he was trying to cook dinner and asked him exactly what I was getting wrong.

As ever, he was calm, kind…and entirely convinced I needed to be much braver.

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

Forever patient, he endured my barrage of deadheading questions as he attempted to pull together a bolognese our picky children might actually eat for once. "I know you hate cutting them back because it feels like you're ruining the plant," he told me, "but you've got to be braver with those shears.

"If you just nip off the faded flower, you're wasting your time. On most repeat-flowering plants, you want to follow the flower stem down to the first strong pair of healthy leaves or a side shoot, then make your cut just above that. That's where the plant can produce strong new growth."

In other words, don't just remove the dead flower itself; by following the spent flower stem down to a healthy leaf joint instead of leaving behind a short stub, you're encouraging the plant to direct its energy into producing fresh shoots and, ultimately, another flush of flowers.

Shop Deadheading Essentials:

Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears

These herb garden scissors are ideal for taking fast cuttings of herbs to throw into any recipe. Plus, you can put them in the dishwasher to clean them!

NCGDPZY Gardener's Thumb Knife

These thumb knives are a bit different than the silicone kind, but they are just as effective. Slip it over your index finger and thumb and use the sharp razor blade to quickly prune plants.

Fiskars Comfort Loop Pruning Snips

These petite microtip pruning scissors are great for bonsai training or little pruning tasks in the garden. The comfortable handles make them easy and accessible for anyone to use.

It isn’t just me who fears deadheading too far; my husband reassured me that the majority of his gardening clients get nervous whenever he whips the pruning scissors out. But it is important to remember, he added, just how resilient most garden plants actually are.

"We treat them like they're fragile," he laughed. "But they're not. As long as you're following the flower stem back to a healthy point on the plant, most repeat-flowering plants absolutely thrive on a bit of tough love."

That being said, confidence is only half the battle. "Keep your shears sharp," he advised me, barely looking up from the pan. "You don't want to crush the stem; you want one clean, quick slice. Think of it like a surgical procedure, not a massacre."

A clean cut heals more quickly and is less likely to leave the plant vulnerable to disease than a ragged stem. And my husband also stressed that while most repeat-flowering plants benefit from confident deadheading, there are exceptions.

(Image credit: Melanie Griffiths)

"Think about once-blooming roses," he says. "If you've got an old-fashioned climbing rose that only flowers once a year, don't start cutting long stems back in midsummer. You could be removing next year's flowers before they've even formed. Just tidy up the spent blooms and leave the framework alone."

Spring-flowering bulbs also need a gentler approach. "You can remove the faded flower heads from daffodils and tulips if you want them to look tidier," he explained, "but leave the leaves alone until they've yellowed naturally. That foliage is feeding the bulb for next year's flowers."

(Image credit: Olga Yastremska. Getty Images)

Lavender is another plant that deserves a little caution. "Snip off the faded flower spikes and trim the soft green growth if it needs tidying, but don't cut into the old woody stems," he suggested. "Lavender often won't grow back from old wood."

And finally, don't assume every faded flower needs removing immediately. "Some late-season plants, like sedum, are often worth leaving alone. Their seedheads look fantastic through fall and provide food for birds and insects long after the flowers have finished."

All excellent advice, as I'm sure you'll agree. And, while I'm still nowhere near as fearless as my husband with a pair of pruners, the next time I'm hovering nervously over a faded bloom, wondering whether I've gone too far, I'll remember his advice: don't just snip the flower – follow the stem.

Hey, I might even get it embroidered on a T-shirt!

Keeping a lawn green through a hot summer can feel like a losing battle. You water most evenings and run the sprinkler when it gets bad, then a few hard days later brown, dry patches start spreading across it anyway. The frustrating part is that a lot of that water never reaches the roots – it beads up and runs off, leaving the soil underneath bone dry.

That run-off is the clue. Once soil bakes dry in the heat, it can start repelling water instead of soaking it in, and that's half the reason a heat-stressed lawn stays patchy no matter how much you put down. A lawn wetting agent is the little-known fix – a product that helps water break through and soak in evenly, so more of it ends up where the grass can reach it.

What Is a Lawn Wetting Agent?

A wetting agent is a soil surfactant, the same class of compound behind soaps and detergents. Most lawn versions are nonionic surfactants – some synthetic, others plant-derived from coconut or yucca extract – and in plain terms they lower the surface tension of water so it spreads and sinks in rather than sitting on top in beads. That matters because dry soil isn't always simply dry. As organic matter and thatch break down, they can leave a waxy, water-repellent film on soil particles, and ground baked hard in a heatwave often starts to repel water in patches, a condition greenkeepers call dry patch.

Water hydrophobic soil and most of it rolls straight off or runs down a few cracks, leaving the bulk of the root zone untouched. A surfactant breaks that barrier so the water spreads in evenly and gets to the roots. Some products go further, holding moisture in the root zone for longer rather than just hurrying it through. Either way, the agent doesn't add a single drop – it stops the soil from wasting what you already put down.

Hydro Holder Soil Wetting Agent

Why It Helps in a Heatwave

In the middle of a hot, dry spell, that even soak-in is just what a lawn needs. Water reaches more of the root zone, so the patchwork of green and brown evens out and even the stubborn bone-dry spots finally take up moisture. Less run-off means less waste, as well, which counts for plenty when there's a hosepipe ban on or you're paying for every gallon through a meter.

It takes some of the guesswork out of summer lawn watering, too. Since the water sinks in rather than sheeting off, you can usually stretch the time between sessions, and what does soak down tends to reach the deeper roots where it counts. Over a season that adds up to a stronger, more drought-ready lawn. Most lawn wetting agents like this from Amazon come as a hose-end concentrate you just spray on, and one bottle generally covers a good-sized lawn for the summer.

How and When to Apply It

(Image credit: BanksPhotos / Getty Images)

Application is straightforward. With a hose-end bottle you clip it onto the hose and spray evenly across the grass; granular versions get spread with a broadcaster and watered in. Either way, the step that matters is watering it in afterwards, since the agent has to move down into the soil to do its job – left sitting on the surface, it does nothing. Spreading a liquid evenly is easier with a hose spray attachment from The Home Depot than thumbing the end of the hose.

Timing trips a lot of people up. Put it down in the cool of early morning or evening rather than under a midday sun, and water it in well so nothing scorches. It works best as a preventative, applied before the soil dries out hard – not as an emergency rescue once the lawn has already gone crisp. A repeat every four weeks or so through the hot stretch keeps the effect topped up, though it's always worth a glance at the label, since concentrations differ.

Where Wetting Agents Fall Short

(Image credit: Bilal photos / Getty Images)

For all that, a wetting agent isn't a miracle, and it helps to be clear about what it can't do. It can't conjure water from nothing – in a real drought, with no rain and no irrigation, no surfactant on earth keeps grass green. What it does is make the most of the water that's already there. It's also less use on heavy clay soil that holds water well to begin with, where the trouble is usually drainage, not repellency.

And it won't fix bad habits. Mow too short, or water in shallow daily sprinkles, and a wetting agent only papers over the cracks – it works with good lawn care, not in place of it. Bear in mind, too: cool-season grass that browns off in a heatwave is often just going dormant, not dying, and it greens back up once cooler, damper weather returns. Half the time the lawn is fine on its own and better left alone.

Other Ways to Get a Lawn through the Summer

A few habits do as much as any product. Raise the mower height in summer – leaving the grass around 3 inches (7-8cm) long shades the soil and grows deeper roots, both of which help it ride out the heat. Mow less often too, and never take off more than the top third at once. When you do water, water deeply and less frequently, ideally first thing in the morning. A longer, less frequent soak does more good than a daily flick of the hose, and an oscillating lawn sprinkler from Walmart makes that easy to dial in.

Leave the clippings where they fall, as well – a light scatter works like a thin mulch, returning moisture and nutrients to the soil as it breaks down. A sharp mower blade helps too; a clean cut browns far less at the tips than a torn one. Feeding calls for restraint in a heatwave: a fast hit of nitrogen forces soft growth right when the grass is under strain, so reach for a specialized lawn fertilizer for stress like this blend from Amazon.

Whatever the size of your backyard, it's time to take a fresh look at the garden color palette you're using. Using color strategically is a staple of good garden design, making the very most of any plot. The right color combination can completely change your garden, making it less chaotic and more considered. So if your backyard feels cramped or cluttered, listen up! These new color rules are the solution you need.

The new color rules for landscape design are moving away from bold, contrasting tones and shifting towards calmer, more curated palettes that feel very modern. These color-based planting solutions work equally well in sunny and shady gardens, and are particularly useful for making a small garden feel bigger and drawing disparate parts of a bigger backyard together.

So, if you're looking for new ideas to make your garden design feel fresh and intentional, and are interested in ways to maximise your space, these modern designer tricks with color will set you on the right path. They're a great way to achieve a designer-look garden for less, and easy to implement yourself. Which new color rule will work best in your yard?

1. Prioritise Greens

(Image credit: RHS/Neil Hepworth)

We're often guilty of skipping straight past foliage tones to get to flower colors. But get the greens right first, and whatever the rest of your chosen color palette is made up of, your garden will feel calming, immersive, and continuous.

"Green is emerging as the defining color story of 2026," says Kevin Lenhart, landscape architect and design director at Yardzen. "Designers are layering tones from soft sage to deep forest across planting, materials, and furnishings to create depth and cohesion. Pops of color from flowering perennials, containers, and soft furnishings add moments of delight that echo the way color appears in nature: surprising, seasonal, never dominant."

Fabulous foliage was one of the biggest trends at this year's world-famous RHS Chelsea Flower Show. And no wonder, as research shows that exposure to the color green can soothe, heal, and rejuvenate our mental and emotional wellbeing. Make green therapy, also known as ecotherapy or nature therapy, central to your design ideas, and add sense-soothing elements to your garden, and you'll tap into the power of the natural environment to promote wellbeing.

2. Create a Monochromatic Base

(Image credit: RHS/Sarah Cuttle)

A monochromatic color palette uses just one color, but many shades of it so it doesn't become monotonous. For example, if were to choose purple as your base tone, you would use multiple shades from palest lavender to deepest plums. And while it's perfectly possible to create an entire monochromatic color garden using just one tone, most modern designs simply use this rule as a starting point to ensure cohesion.

Designs with a monochromatic base shine in both compact and expansive plots. In an enclosed courtyard garden, the cohesion that using a base tone brings ensures a small area appears uncluttered. In a bigger garden, that base tone ties the various parts of a design together.

Taking advantage of different plant heights, shapes and structures as well as various shades lets you create depth and movement in the planting scheme. You can also use the various shades to create some clever optical illusions, such as planting lighter tones at the edges of borders to make beds seem bigger.

Your paving, fencing and garden furniture should fit into your monochromatic base, or at least have a neutral palette of cool cream and charcoal gray to keep the focus firmly on the plants, rather than opting for bright or warm colors that deflect attention.

3. Color-Drench For Impact

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

With the basics of your color palette established, it's time to build some highlights to create impactful garden moments. Layering up lots of different plants in the same bold, saturated shade by color drenching is a hugely effective way to make a focal point in your planting. It adds a very modern touch to a garden design, too, especially if the chosen tone extends beyond the planting with cushions, throws, and painted details such as accent walls. You don't need to use this rule across your whole garden, but perhaps color drench one central border, then use another rule to echo that tone elsewhere.

How landscape designers use this rule to garden with color in a contemporary space is far from dull. To add depth and interest to this one-color palette, they use a variety of contrasting flower shapes such as spheres and spires, and textures, too. The current color-drenching tone of choice is purple, which offers a wonderful array of textural blooms to choose from.

Essential Color-Drenching Purple Blooms

Tall Spires

East Friesland Salvia

Deep purple flower spikes grow 2ft tall and the sweetly fragrant blooms last all summer long. This cold-hardy plant thrives in Zones 4-8.

Magical Globes

Allium Giganteum

These fragrant purple flowers about the size of a softball bloom from May to June. Hardy in Zones 3-9, they're a great choice for pollinator gardens.

Ruffled petals

Iris 'His Royal Highness'

This tall and elegant purple bearded iris variety comes with the bonus of blooming twice yearly. It's fast-growing, reaches 3ft tall, and thrives in Zones 3-9.

4. Chroma Layering to Create the Illusion of Space

(Image credit: Neil Hepworth/RHS)

Although it might sound like a technical concept, chroma layering is in fact the pretty straightforward practice of using colors of differing intensities to give the illusion of more depth. You can use this with varying colors, placing vibrant tones like orange, yellow and hot pink at the front of a border, and less intense shades like pale blue, white, gray and silver towards the back. You can also use chroma layering with a monochromatic palette, placing bolder, brighter shades at the front and calmer tones at the back.

Whichever, the more intense colors feel closer while the less intense shades appear further away, which has the effect of lengthening the view and making the space feel bigger than it is. As well as making a garden feel more spacious, this also creates a very modern look.

Chroma layering relies heavily on foliage as well as flowers. Darker purple foliage such as Smokebush 'Winecraft Black', available from Nature Hills, can be used at the back of a border, while leaves in a brighter zingy green such as those of Coral Bells 'Lime Marmalade', also available from Nature Hills, are placed towards the front.

5. The 70/30 Harmonious Living Rule

(Image credit: RHS/Josh Kemp-Smith)

The 70/30 harmonious living rule has been big in interior design for a while now, used as a way of curating a more visually appealing space. Now the idea is shifting outside, and the principle works equally well when using color in a garden. The idea is that 70% of your color (plants and other design elements such as painted fences) forms a calming, harmonious backdrop for the remaining 30% of bright, bold color.

Sticking to this ratio means you can still use bright, impactful colors, while ensuring the garden remains calm, cohesive and considered. Using the 70/30 rule is also a great way to make your money go further, placing a few choice accent plants beloved by landscape designers among less expensive foliage plants.

6. Color Echoing For Continuity

(Image credit: Tim Sandall/RHS)

Garden designers love to repeat color, form, or texture through a landscape to provide rhythm and unity. Color is an especially powerful tool when used in different parts of a garden as a linking device to create visual cohesion. This is one of the easiest garden design tips to put into practice, but also one of the most effective. It's known as color echoing, and involves choosing foliage, flowers, hardscaping or garden accessories in colors that mirror each other.

Weaving one color (or all the various shades of it, such as all the tones from deep magenta to palest blush pink) throughout your design leads your eye smoothly through a space, making a garden feel larger and more intentional. In this design, the color of a distinctive purple-leaved beech is picked up and echoed throughout the rest of the garden by dark purple granny bonnets, plum poppies, and Jerusalem Sage 'Amazone'.

Using the same tones in plants that soften hard landscaping is a particularly effective trick that landscape designers use. Another clever pro move is to use foliage for color echoing, as it's a more constant source. Unlike most flowers, foliage holds color all season long, sometimes even year-round. Plus of course, there's such diversity of foliage tone to draw on to play around with color echoing.

7. Color-Matching Tone and Aspect

(Image credit: RHS/Sarah Cuttle)

There's a fine line between cohesion and monotony, so it's important to vary the moments of intensity in any garden design, to create a rhythm. Color matching tone and aspect is one way to achieve this. It involves positioning plants with bright, vibrant, warm colors like orange and yellow in sunny areas, and placing those with cool pastel tones such as white and pale blue in shady areas. You can also use it in conjunction with the monochromatic base rule, using brighter, bolder tones of a color in sunny areas and paler, lighter shades of the same color in shady areas.

This has the effect of creating an airy, open ambience, as the contrasting warm-colored sunny areas will feel further away from the cool-colored shady areas.

Use hardscaping to add to this rule, too. Sun-loving drought-tolerant plants like red hot pokers and gaillardia daisies in a hot, dry area pair well with gravel. In a shady area, a dark mulch will make ferns, hosta and astilbe appear lusher.

8. Color Wheel Asymmetrics For Balance

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

Modern garden design still pairs tones on opposite sides of the color wheel, but does so in a far more intentional, asymmetric fashion. Using opposite colors such as purple and yellow, blue and orange, or violet and lime green to make both shades appear more vibrant is one of the oldest garden design rules in the book. However, employing an equal level of the contrasting colors means they will all compete for your attention, which can feel overwhelming. For still-bright results with a soothing rather than stressful vibe, the new rule dictates we use an uneven split of 80% of one color and 20% of the other.

The idea behind this ratio is that it lets you create visual tension, depth, and highly intentional focal points, without overwhelming the senses.

Red Flowers to Pop Against Green

hummingbird magnet

Red Yucca

Tubular red flowers bloom all season long. This heat-tolerant choice thrives in Zones 5-10. It's a hummingbird magnet and a top pick for pollinators.

Tropical Favorite

The President Canna Bulbs

This canna is a classic with its deep red blooms and lush foliage. It's hardy in Zones 8-11, where it will grow to 48 inches tall, and be a conversation point.

Pollinator Special

Jacob Cline Bee Balm

Brilliant red flowers add vibrant summer color in Zones 4-9 until early fall, and it grows 3-4 ft tall to add a punctuation point to your landscape.

Whatever palette you choose, mix and match these new color rules to create a cohesive garden design that looks like it was created by a professional landscaper. Remember that there are many different ways to add more color to any garden, such as clothing a bare wall with a stunning clematis, or painting your patio pots in a shade to match your planting palette. Or how about sowing some pretty groundcover to keep weeds out of your borders, or adding a color-pop patio table?

July can be a tough month for hydrangeas. They tend to wilt in the heat of midsummer, especially during a heatwave or drought, and on sunny afternoons. The stress can trigger a transition from robust, vibrant spring and early summer growth to fading flowers, drooping leaves, and even burnt, crispy edges.

In July, hydrangea care is all about supporting your shrubs during stressful times. The effort you put in this month will help extend the blooming season and keep your plants healthy and vigorous.

1. Water Your Hydrangeas Deeply

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Inconsistent moisture is one of the biggest and most harmful issues hydrangeas face in the heat of summer. If the weather is hot and dry, institute a routine of deep watering. A good rule of thumb is to water hydrangeas once or twice a week, but I like to stick my finger in the soil to feel for moisture. If the top two inches (5 cm) are dry, it’s time to water. If you aren't sure, then buy a moisture meter, like the Yamron 4-in-1 soil moisture meter on Amazon.

Don’t rely on the wilting of leaves for a sign of water needs, as hydrangeas often wilt in the heat of the day and perk back up overnight.

It’s better to water your hydrangeas deeply and less often than shallowly and every day. Shallow watering encourages shallow, weak roots. Deep watering encourages roots to grow down, where the soil is moist and cool.

Water hydrangeas in the morning to reduce water loss to evaporation during the heat of the day. It’s best to water at the base of each shrub rather than overhead, especially if you water in the evening. Water lingering on leaves overnight encourages fungal infections.

2. Add or Fortify Mulch

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bare, dark soil around your hydrangeas acts like a heat sink. The soil absorbs a lot of the heat from the sun, cooking delicate roots underground and causing moisture to evaporate quickly. Hydrangeas tend to suffer from this heat and dryness in the summer, so take steps to reduce the effect.

The best thing you can do is mulch generously around each shrub. Two to three inches (5–7.5 cm) of mulch does several things to support healthy plants: it regulates the soil temperature, keeps it cooler, holds moisture, and suppresses weeds. All essential for growing those stunning, billowy hydrangea blooms.

Shredded bark, pine straw, and wood chips are all good options. Or, try coconut husk, like this Back to the Roots Organic Expanding Mulch. Pile up the mulch around the base of each hydrangea, but keep a few inches around the stems bare. This reduces the risk of rotting and pests.

3. Remove Faded Flowers, Carefully

(Image credit: PhotoStudioMCD / Getty Images)

Hydrangea flowers often start to look sorry for themselves in the heat of midsummer. This is a good time to do some deadheading to tidy up the plants and help them direct energy away from seeds back into overall health.

When deadheading hydrangeas, snip spent flowers off somewhere between the base of the flowers and the first set of healthy leaves. Do not remove the entire stem. For some types of hydrangeas, trimming off entire stems now can reduce flowering next year. Use sharp, clean precision pruners, like Fiskars' pruning scissors with microtips, to deadhead.

4. Protect Hydrangeas from Intense Heat

(Image credit: Katrin Ray Shumakov / Getty Images)

As long as you provide plenty of water and use mulch thoughtfully, your hydrangeas will survive a July heatwave. However, they are unlikely to thrive during this time. If you can protect them from the intense sun and heat of July afternoons, the flowers will retain more vibrant color and last longer.

The best way to protect hydrangeas from heat is to provide some temporary shade. If your hydrangeas are potted, simply move them into shade for the afternoon. If not, you may have to get creative to rig up some shade. Use a shade cloth, like this one from Cool Arena Store, and support it with stakes. Alternatively, use a garden umbrella, a lightweight trellis you can easily move, or portable plant screens. Just a couple of hours of relief from the hot sun can help flowers last weeks longer.

5. Watch for Summer Pests

(Image credit: Getty Images)

While some plants, like hydrangeas, struggle in the hottest part of the summer, certain pests and diseases are prepared to thrive. In fact, they’ll take advantage of stressed plants and cause worse infestations and infections.

Heat, and particularly humidity, in July can trigger issues with spider mites, aphids, powdery mildew, and leaf spot in hydrangeas. Inspect leaves and stems regularly throughout the month to catch signs of problems early, when they’ll be more manageable.

If you see pests, use a stream of water to remove them or target them with neem oil or an insecticidal soap – Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil comes in a ready-to-use spray. Remove leaves that show signs of spots or mildew and dispose of them. Just a quick, five-minute check once or twice a week is enough to ensure pests and infections on hydrangeas don’t get out of control.

6. Skip the Fertilizer

(Image credit: Alex Manders /. Getty Images)

Lastly, this is a chore you can skip in July. Hydrangeas are likely to be at least a little stressed this month, and adding fertilizer can actually increase stress. Now is the time to focus on maintaining healthy plants, not encouraging additional growth.

Skip the fertilizer and spend your time ensuring hydrangeas have enough water and mulch to stay healthy through the hottest part of the summer.

July Hydrangea Care Essentials

Yamron 4-In-1 Soil Meter to Test Moisture, Temperature, pH, and Light Intensity

Back to the Roots Organic Expanding Coconut Husk Mulch

Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil Fungicide, Insecticide and Miticide Spray

These few, small tasks done in July can mean the difference between faded, sad-looking hydrangeas and healthy plants with vibrant, long-lasting flowers. Hydrangeas are pretty forgiving and resilient, but they’ll reward you for that watchful July care. Instead of just surviving, they’ll thrive through summer.

We look forward to summer sun all winter long, then the heat arrives and we remember the glory of shade. Not to worry! You can create shade and cool your patio with plants. Patio plants properly placed - whether small trees, potted plants with big leaves, or hanging baskets - can step between you and the sun to cool things down. Using leafy trees and lush vines won’t turn summer back into spring, but it can create a fresher, cooler microclimate exactly where you need it.

When you are designing your landscape, it’s always a good idea to install shade trees to cool your home. If you need shade pronto, you’ll want to make a trip to the garden store and bring home ready-made sunshine-blocking houseplants. If you are starting early, some of these are easy to start by rooting cuttings. (Adding a Shark FlexBreeze Misting Fan from Amazon will help complete the patio oasis transformation!)

Here are 5 of our top choices.

5 Plants that Cool Your Patio in Summer

Here at Gardening Know How, we think that any houseplant is a good houseplant. But different plants play different roles in our landscape. If you are looking for plants to provide patio shade, we’ve got you covered. The top plants for cooling a patio will offer height, dense foliage and large leaves and turn scorching sunlight into dappled shade.

Here are the 5 plants we recommend to make your patio a cool outdoor retreat.

1. Elephant Ears

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Think of an elephant’s ears - big and heart-shaped. That’s what the leaves of Colocasia esculenta look like, one of the species of tropical perennial plants termed “elephant ears.” They are grown for the very same huge leaves that gave them their name. The species plant grows emerald green leaves with a matte finish, but - for sunny patios in search of shade - we recommend varieties with dark leaves that can take direct sun.

Two great choices include ‘Black Coral’ with its huge, glossy black, corrugated leaves, growing to 4 feet (1.3m) tall, and ‘Black Magic’, with dusty purple-black leaves and dark petioles. It grows to 6 feet (2m) tall and wide. 3 to 6 feet tall and wide.

Provide your elephant ear plant with fertile, moist soil and don’t neglect regular irrigation. They grow best in warm temperatures and high humidity. They thrive in USDA hardiness zones 8-11.

2. Star Jasmine

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Yes, this plant deserves its “star” designation for its powerful fragrance alone. Then there are the frothy, star-shaped flowers, the vigorous vine, and the plant’s tolerance for sun and shade. Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) grows rapidly to 6 feet (2m) tall and wide if provided with warm temperatures and well-draining soil. And it’s so easy; a member of the “plant and forget” club.

This vine works well for a hot patio since it will do just fine in hot sun and loves to run up a trellis. The star jasmine is a fast-growing vine and, without something to climb, will spread quickly in the landscape, potentially suffocating nearby plants. Its thick, twining vines create a heavy plant screen just where you need it and bloom from spring through September.

3. Crape Myrtle

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Star jasmine will build a leafy wall between your patio and the sun, but if you’d prefer a dappled approach, consider a container tree like crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica). This leafy flowering tree releases water vapor through its long eaves, cooling down the nearby air. But it also offers masses of flowers that create an effective sun screen on a deck or patio. Sited in sun and soil that drains well, it only needs regular watering in summer in USDA zones 6-9.

Crape myrtle is a wonderful plant to cool a patio as it has naturally airy canopy, creating dappled shade without making a space feel dark or blocking out the light.

Crape myrtles are not necessarily small trees. Planted in the garden, they can grow to 25 feet (8m) tall and almost as wide. So choose a cultivar that meets your needs. For example, 'Enduring Summer White' is a dwarf cultivar that won’t get taller than you are yet offers lacy white blooms. Or for something taller and more colorful, go for 'Catawba' with bright purple flowers and fiery fall color, topping out at between 10 and 15 feet (3-5m) tall and wide.

4. Grapevine

(Image credit: Nadtochiy / Getty Images)

Grapevines (Vitis vinifera) are fast climbing vines that prefer a full-sun location. Lots of my friends in French Basque Country have planted grapevines on a pergola or overhead frames in the patio to create a cool seating area below. Grapevines grow fast and can create a dense summer roof of leaves in a season or two. The “ceiling” of grapevine leaves blocks sun in summer, but leaves drop off in winter to allow the sunshine in.

Yes, grapevines are fruit plants that produce grapes. They hang down into the pergola like decorations. The entire set-up gives you the sense that you are sitting in a cool Mediterranean getaway instead of a hot patio.

Plant your grapevine in a full sun area, especially if you hope to ripen the fruit. They grow best in well-draining soil with regular water - at least an inch a week. You’ll need to prune every year to keep growth healthy. They are hardy in USDA zones 6-9.

5. Hostas

(Image credit: Maria Evseyeva / Shutterstock)

Leafy container plants can change the atmosphere of a small garden or patio in summer, turning it into a cooling station. We all know hostas (Hosta spp.) as easy-care plants for our shade gardens, but there are some that have huge green cooling leaves but love the sun. These are the ones to consider to cool your summer patio.

Bring in shade-loving varieties as second tier patio plants, or select sun loving varieties for sunny corners. We particularly like Hosta ‘Big Daddy’, which delights with its massive leaves. They grow to 12 inches (30cm) long in a really cool frosty blue. ‘Big Daddy’ can grow happily in full sun, partial sun or shade. It also works well in containers, The entire plant will get 2 feet (.6m) tall and 3 feet (1m) wide. It offers showy white flowers that appear in late summer and attract pollinators.

Hosta species have individual sun requirements, but they all need moist, well-draining soil. Hosta is hardy to USDA Zones 3-9.

Summers have always been the hottest, driest season, but these days, with a warming climate, temperatures can become extreme. Most of us have seen our gardens dry out during summer, especially during periods of drought and/or high heat and – other than watering in the early morning – there’s not much to do about it.

As your landscape gets toasty and the plants get dry, fire risk increases. And that's not to mention 4th of July fireworks. If you’ve leaned into drought tolerant plants in the backyard, the risk is even higher given the lower moisture content. Some plants that are resilient in extreme weather can be surprisingly flammable, and wise homeowners keep these species far from homes, sheds, fences and other structures during hot, dry summer weather.

7 Garden Plants That Are Surprisingly Flammable

Some plants and trees are notoriously flammable and proud of it. We all know that pine and spruce needles have high resin content, and so do their branches and trunks. Other plants are just as flammable but a little sneakier about it. So don’t feel bad if you’re just hearing about their flammability for the first time.

It’s important to identify these “secretly” flammable plants because you just don’t want them near buildings or fences in hot summer weather. And you definitely want to keep them away from stray fireworks. We’d like to introduce you to seven of them that create quite a blaze if they burn.

1. Wild Lilac (Ceanothus spp.)

(Image credit: Robert Moore / Getty Images)

If you live on the West Coast, you are very likely to have a ceanothus in your backyard. These are among my favorite native shrubs, with the striking indigo flowers that cover the canopy in spring and attract butterflies, bees and other beneficial insects. The leaves are lovely too, small, oval and a dark, blue-green color. But not all ceanothus look alike. The genus includes some 60 shrubs, mostly evergreen, including some that are prostrate, some that mound, and some that are upright to 6 feet (2m) tall.

Another benefit of ceanothus is its drought tolerance; I’ve hardly watered mine since the first year I planted them. But this characteristic also indicates that these native beauties are flammable. In fact, ceanothus leaves are coated with flammable oils and resins. These garden staples started out as chaparral plants and nature built them for fire; the ceanothus seeds require intense heat for germination.

Few of us who love ceonothus are likely to cut our trees down because of an elevated risk of fire. On the other hand, it just makes sense to position it in the back of the garden rather than near the house, garage or shed.

Just in Case

Fire Extinguisher

Fire Blanket 2-Pack

Smoke Detector 2-Pack

2. Blackberry (Rubus armeniacus)

(Image credit: KPixMining / Shutterstock)

Fresh blackberries from the garden are sweet and delicious, but keep in mind that blackberry bushes are so flammable that they can be a fire hazard. You should never plant them close to your home, and if you have them in your berry patch, be sure to keep them manicured.

Left unattended, the canes can shoot up to 15 feet (5m) tall. They stay upright even after they die, creating scaffolding for new growth. The dead canes create a ladder fuel situation where a ground fire can climb up into tree branches. Replace your blackberry canes with red flowering currents, thimbleberry and Pacific crabapple.

3. Common Holly (Ilex aquifolium)

(Image credit: EzumeImages / Getty Images)

Deck the halls alright, but don’t plant common holly near your home. Its dark green, glossy leaves are unmistakable, but they are filled with resin and highly flammable. In a wilder landscape, they can also create a dense understory that can function as a ladder fuel. In addition, common holly leaves produce a flammable vapor when heated, making stands of holly a fire risk.

It’s wise to avoid planting holly near your home and don’t leave large holly piles near any structure. If you want to replace the shrub, consider sword fern, vine maple, or ocean spray.

4. Rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.)

(Image credit: Boy_Anupong / Getty Images)

Many of us have planted rosemary in the garden because it is extremely drought resistant and can take a hot sun. But this plant is among the more flammable of the native plants. Its needle-like leaves are filled with oils and resins - and these remain even when the needles die and dry on the stems. That translates to a plant that is appealing visually, useful in cooking, but highly flammable.

Most gardeners I know keep a shrub or two of rosemary in the herb garden, and this does not seem like a significant fire threat. But resist any temptation to suddenly install an entire bed of rosemary just beside your home.

5. Scotch Broom (Cytisus scoparius)

(Image credit: David Rigg)

Scotch broom is considered a common weed today, but it was brought into America years ago as an ornamental. It is rather pretty, with leaves composed of three oblong leaflets close to the stem, slender stems, and a cloud of bright yellow blossoms from March to June. .

But admire fields of Scotch broom from afar rather than planting up your garden. Dense, mature stands of broom create lots of dead woody debris with a high oil content. This puts them on the “most flammable” list of plants that do not belong anywhere near your home or out buildings. Instead, plant native grasses and beaked hazelnut shrubs.

6. Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

(Image credit: Katya Slavashevich / Getty Images)

My grandmother used to wear lavender perfume, and the whiff of this fragrant flowering plant brings back memories to me. That’s one reason I added it to my herb garden; another is that it is as beautiful as it is fragrant.

But as those slender, flexible stems turn woody as they age and dead plant matter builds up within the plant. This makes your lovely, fragrant lavender plant flammable, very flammable. It is not recommended that you plant lavender near any structure on your property. Keep it more than 5 feet (2m) away from your home to prevent any fire problems.

7. Bamboo (Bambusa vulgaris)

(Image credit: Alamy)

Now this one surprised me. Bamboo flammable? Well it is and it isn’t.

Bamboos are vigorous and dramatic plants with a tropical air. Their graceful swaying canes and forever foliage add structure and movement to the landscape. You can find bamboo that will be happy in almost every growing condition. Some are running and some are climbing but all seem flexible and moist rather than dry and flammable.

Live bamboo canes are made up of cellulose, and include high amounts of silica and water with very few volatile oils. Live bamboo is hard - if not impossible - to ignite, but the same cannot be said of dry bamboo. The dried stems, leaves, and sheaths of bamboo are extremely flammable, and most large stands of bamboo include lots of dead stems and dried debris. All this dry bamboo can explode when burned, so keep any large planting well away from your home.

You don’t need to remove bamboo from your landscape, but you do need to maintain it, pruning out dead wood regularly and removing it from the area. If this seems like too much work, consider planting something else like

Tips to Reduce Fire Risk

(Image credit: Kevin Trimmer / Getty Images)

You can reduce the risk of fire in your home and landscape by selecting plants wisely and maintaining your garden. Here are five tips to keep in mind.

1. Select plants that are fire-resistant, like succulents.
2. Prune back branches that approach your home.
3. Clean up and dispose of yard debris including dry leaves, canes, and branches.
4. Never plant shrubs within 5 feet (2m) of the home.
5. Choose mulch that is not flammable, like organic compost, instead of flammable mulch, like dried leaves or pine needles.
6. Cut out dead plants, shrubs and trees promptly and remove them from the property.