Organic Gardening News

There is so much to love about a good container garden. Pots let you experiment with color, move plants around when a border needs a little extra something, and squeeze more greenery into even the smallest outdoor space.

The trouble is, when fall arrives and the first frost is on its way, all of those lovely pots? Well, they need a little extra attention if you want them to make it through the winter unscathed. (Something I learned the hard way during my early attempts at gardening; it was devastating).

Thankfully, my husband is a professional gardener, so I've learned to listen when he starts talking about protecting plants for winter. Because, while I'm tempted to leave everything where it is and hope for the best, he has put a lot of effort into teaching me that a little preparation now can make all the difference to how well plants survive the colder months.

What Your Container Garden Needs Before The First Frost

Temperatures are a little erratic this year, thanks to the ongoing El Niño, and things are set to be just as wildly unpredictable this winter. Planning ahead, then, is more important than ever.

So, if you've been wondering what to do with your container garden before temperatures drop, these are the three jobs that my husband recommends prioritizing.

1. Move Tender Plants

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When it comes to overwintering your container garden, my husband's first piece of advice is simple enough: figure out which of your plants can handle the cold and which can't.

"If you've got tender plants in containers, don't wait until the first frost is forecast to start thinking about where they're going to spend winter," he says. "Move them somewhere protected while the weather is still mild enough for them to adjust."

Plants in pots are more exposed to cold than plants growing in the ground, because their roots aren't insulated by the surrounding soil. Tropical plants, tender perennials, and many plants that have spent summer outside may need to be moved indoors or into a frost-free greenhouse, conservatory, or garage, depending on their light requirements.

Top tip: Before bringing plants inside, check their leaves, stems, and potting mix for pests. It's also worth moving them gradually into their new environment where possible, rather than taking them straight from a sunny patio into a dark corner indoors.

Shop Container Plant Winterizing Essentials:

Tlswshsy 2 Pack Plant Winter Protection Pot

Rio Hamza Trading 100% Natural Pine Bark Mulch Nuggets

Duck Duck Brand Small Bubble Cushioning Wrap

2. Group Your Outdoor Pots

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

If you've got containers that need to stay outside, my husband advises you group them together in a sheltered spot. (Well, what he actually said was to treat them like penguins and get them in a huddle, but close enough).

Why? "It means they're less exposed to cold winds, and you can give the pots a little extra protection," he says. "Just make sure you're grouping plants with similar needs, and don't block drainage holes or leave containers sitting in water."

Grouping pots against a sheltered wall can help reduce their exposure to wind and make them easier to protect. It won't make tender plants frost-proof, but it can be a useful measure for hardy plants that are staying outdoors.

Top tip: Try to choose a spot that offers protection without becoming waterlogged, and raise pots slightly on pot feet or bricks if necessary to help excess water drain away. Good drainage is particularly important during winter, when cold and wet compost can put roots under additional stress.

3. Get Insulating

(Image credit: freemixer / Getty Images)

One thing people often forget is that it's not just the foliage you need to think about. "The roots are sitting in a container that's exposed to cold air on all sides, so I always recommend giving them a little extra protection before the first frost arrives," says my husband. "You can wrap the outside of the pot with bubble wrap or hessian, and add a layer of mulch over the surface of the compost to help insulate the roots from temperature fluctuations."

Terracotta pots can be particularly vulnerable to cracking when moisture freezes and expands, so insulating the container can be helpful in exposed conditions. Bubble wrap provides an extra layer of insulation around the pot, while hessian is another option for wrapping containers.

Mulching the surface of the compost adds another layer of protection, helping to reduce temperature fluctuations around the roots. Well-rotted garden compost, manure, bark chips, straw, or shredded leaves can all work well, depending on the plant. "Just be sure to keep the mulch away from stems and crowns, and make sure excess water can drain freely," my husband adds.

Top tip: the important thing to remember is that insulation can help protect roots, but it won't turn a tender plant into a frost-hardy one. If you're growing plants that can't tolerate freezing temperatures, you'll still need to move them somewhere sheltered or frost-free.

It's important to remember that insulation is not a substitute for moving a frost-sensitive plant somewhere safe; the right approach depends on the plant, the container, and how cold your local winters become.

So, before the first frost arrives, check which plants need to move indoors, group the hardier containers in a sheltered spot, and protect exposed pots from the worst of the cold. It doesn't need to be an enormous job, either; honestly, just little time spent preparing now could help protect your plants through winter and leave you with a healthier collection to enjoy when spring comes around.

You can't ask for more than that, right?

Once a woodworker, always a woodworker. Marc Bricault may be an accomplished interior and architectural designer, but he started out as an artisan, and his work is still grounded in timber.

For a custom guest house in Whistler, he layered Douglas fir inside and out.

“We used fir because I really like the warmth of it and how it ages, and it’s a Pacific Northwest material,” says Bricault, who began his career as owner of Granville Island Woodworks and is now principal of Vancouver’s Bricault Design. “A lot of time spent up here is going to be in the winter. We just really wanted it to feel like a warm little cabin where, after a day outside on the slopes, you come and just feel cosy.”

When the homeowner, a longtime client, asked Bricault to add a guest house to her Whistler property, she wanted it to feel connected to the main house without blocking views. He and his team dovetailed the 1,268-square-foot structure into the landscape so deftly that it’s nearly camouflaged among conifers and shrubs.

He had a small section of rock blasted away so the narrow, two-storey structure could notch into the cliffside on one side of the property. The placement also preserves wildlife corridors used by local bears.

Angling upper walls away from the main home’s view lines, he extended the landscape over a series of walkways with tiered green roofs.

“I kind of grabbed the backyard and pulled it on top of the carport,” says Bricault. “We terraced along the way to have a really generously protected walkway from the carport to the little house, because of Whistler snow loads and so that you aren’t shovelling your walk every time you go to the guest house.”

Landscaping softens the rest of the edges. Working with High Country Landscape, Bricault used hardy, low-maintenance vegetation on the green roofs, then added trees to frame specific views: a paperbark maple outside the dining room, a red-leafed Japanese maple at the end of a walkway. A raised mound planted with perennials screens a neighbouring property.

Material choices help the structure blend in further. Black slate shakes give the exterior a “toothlike” form, “like a big rock,” says Bricault, reminiscent of Black Tusk, the jagged volcanic peak in nearby Garibaldi Provincial Park. Copper downpipes and fascia, still bright in places, will darken as they weather.

Under canopies and soffits, edge-grain fir adds warmth, running inside and onto interior walls and ceilings. Bricault’s woodworking roots show here and throughout the home, especially where cabinetry does more than one job — storage, room divider, design feature — and custom pieces blur the line between built-ins and furniture.

Take the entry, where a compact mud room turns the space into a functional landing spot. Fir millwork provides storage while creating separation from the dining area, and a built-in bench flows into open shelving.

A corner window looks toward a cliff face laced with green foliage. “We planted that whole back area with ferns, so it’s kind of a nice spot to sit and take off your boots,” says Bricault. The team also widened natural fissures in the rock to plant moss, he adds: “It’s starting to populate the side of that cliff because it’s in shade a lot of the time. It’s quite lovely when it’s wet.”

A powder room off the entry brings the exterior palette inside, with fir, copper, forest-green tile, soft green quartzite counters and a custom floating mirror edged in bent wood. A second wide window frames the mossy rock outside.

In the kitchen, green quartzite counters top fir cabinetry with copper-plated hardware, while glossy green ceramic tile runs along the backsplash and adjoining walls.

For the dining room, Bricault designed a custom white-oak table with an expandable top and fluting on the apron and legs. Project millworker and Bricault’s longtime collaborator Ted Belch produced the piece locally. A striped pendant overhead adds a playful touch.

Around the corner, a petite living room centres on a fir-lined bay window and glazed-tile fireplace. A concrete hearth extends to the foot of a staircase with cantilevered steps of FSC-certified arbutus. Slim vertical steel bars help support the treads and frame open shelving, continuing upstairs, where they become a guardrail in the sleeping quarters.

There, copper panels etched with a Japanese floral motif flank the bed above arbutus-burl side tables. Built-in drawers opposite make use of the depth created by the angled exterior walls. Motorized blinds disappear into recessed ceiling pockets.

The ensuite continues the home’s earthy palette with brown-green Italian porcelain tile, arbutus flooring and a custom fir vanity perched on fluted legs that feels like furniture. A free-standing tub sits beside a window framing mountain views, while millwork adds storage and separates the bathroom from the bedroom.

For Bricault, the guest house shows how much a small footprint can hold. “I think we managed to fit quite a bit into a very small stand-alone house,” he says. “It feels quite luxurious to me, and cosy and warm and very functional for the size of it.”

Architectural and interior design:Bricault Design

Construction:Vision Pacific Construction

Landscaping:High Country Landscape

Millwork:Ted Belch, Ebony Architectural Woodwork

Related

• A trio of connected cabins create a multi-generational forested escape on Savary Island
• Shaughnessy home renovation as eclectic as the family’s story

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

801 — 3315 Cypress Pl., West Vancouver

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom apartment

Size: 2,018 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,991,000

Listed for: $2,550,000

Sold for: $2,300,000

Sold on: Aug. 10

Days on market in this listing: 118

Listing agent: Rahim Jivraj at eXp Realty

Buyers agent: Franco Diligenti PREC at Macdonald Realty

The big sell: The Cypress Park Estates community resides on the slopes of West Vancouver with properties designed to capture the far-reaching vistas that span Mount Baker to the Gulf Islands. Many of these view homes are detached but StoneCliff is a three-tower concrete residential condo development comprising 111 units that were constructed in the early 2000s. Occupying part of one of the towers is this triple-aspect corner unit that features the sleeping quarters on one side of the floorplan and the reception rooms on the other — deliberately arranged to take full advantage of the uninterrupted south-facing coastal views. The renovated interior features bespoke finishings that create a modern esthetic with custom cabinetry, contemporary light fixtures, and modern bathrooms. The complex provides a number of clubhouse amenities shared between residents of the three towers, and this unit comes with a private double garage and a monthly maintenance fee of $1,319.63.

9314 216 St., Langley

Type: Six-bedroom, four-bathroom detached

Size: 3,217 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,354,000

Listed for: $1,369,900

Sold for: $1,339,000

Sold on: Aug. 5

Days on market in this listing: 48

Listing agent: Rod Bahari PREC at Sutton Group — West Coast Realty

Buyers agent: Chandan Rathod at Sutton Group — Seafair Realty

The big sell: This spacious three-level home resides in Langley’s Walnut Grove district within the Redwood Estates neighbourhood. With six bedrooms and four bathrooms (including a two-bedroom basement suite), the house offers a versatile design and plenty of space for a growing family. The main floor has bright living and dining rooms with a traditional cross-hall layout complete with coffered ceilings and crown mouldings, while the kitchen has Shaker-style maple cabinets, an island, and stainless-steel appliances. Adjacent to the kitchen is an 18-foot-long family room with a gas fireplace, and views across the fully-fenced backyard. There are four generous-sized bedrooms upstairs including the primary suite with a walk-in closet and ensuite bathroom. In addition to the accommodation on the lowest level, there is a recreation room for use by the main house. The property has a double garage with lane access, and the home is air-conditioned and a new furnace has recently been installed.

4505 — 3833 Evergreen Pl., Burnaby

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom apartment

Size: 1,175 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,176,000

Listed for: $1,099,999

Sold for: $1,055,000

Sold on: June 30

Days on market in this listing: Seven

Listing agent: Adam Chahl PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Payam Nasernejad at faithwilson Christie’s International Real Estate

The big sell: This air-conditioned sky suite offers a bird’s-eye view of the area due to its position on the 45th floor within the master-planned City of Lougheed site which offers four newly-built residential towers within its five-acre Neighbourhood ONE community, as well as a three-storey central amenity building with fitness and wellness options for residents including a rooftop putting green. A convenient location next to Lougheed Mall with the SkyTrain and numerous retail choices is another bonus. This particular home has two balconies with glass-panel railings, three bedrooms (two are ensuited), laminate floors throughout the interior, white matte cabinets in the kitchen alongside integrated appliances including a french door refrigerator, and there is full-sized laundry. It comes with one parking stall in the underground garage, and a monthly maintenance fee of $723.61.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

Related

• Sold (Bought): Townhome in Burnaby's Crest subdivision offers greenbelt setting
• Sold (Bought): Strathcona sub-penthouse offers panoramic water, mountain vistas

By any measure, a wall tile install or overhaul can elevate any kitchen or bathroom into a brighter, cleaner, jazzier or classier space, depending on the tile style.

The job can be complicated and time-consuming, requiring the expertise of a pro, especially if using high-end materials like imported marble, zellige, porcelain or travertine. Or it can be quick and easy if you opt for DIY peel-and-stick types, which have come a long way from the cheap, plastic-looking tiles of old.

Tile types

Bathroom and kitchen wall tiles generally come in two main types: field and mosaic. Field tiles are larger than decorative tiles, allowing you to cover a bigger surface area.

Mosaic tiles are usually smaller, and are laid together on a large sheet with mesh backing, so you can place dozens at a time.

Ceramic is the most popular material for backsplash tiling because it’s made from clay that has been fired at a high temperature to make it hard and durable. When glazed, ceramic tiles are moisture- and stain-resistant.

Porcelain, a type of ceramic, but harder, denser, more durable and less porous, is also popular.

Natural stone tiles — milky white marble streaked with veins of grey and black; travertine with its dimpled texture and warm tones; smooth slate, made of sedimentary rock in shades of grey; and naturally water-resistant, classy granite — are all highly durable with a variety of textures and colours. They’re costlier and heavier than ceramic and trickier to install yourself.

Engineered materials like glass and cement are less expensive and more versatile. Glass is non-porous and easy to cut with the right tools.

Sealed cement tiles are super durable and are available in a variety of beautiful shapes and patterns. They are, however, heavier and thicker, so make sure your walls can support that extra weight.

Metal tiles are often made of shiny stainless steel but can also come in copper, brass and tin, all durable and water-resistant. They’re lighter than most materials and relatively easy to install.

Wood tiles come in many shapes and designs and often retain their natural grain look. They’re lightweight, affordable and easy to install but often need to be properly sealed to repel water.

As for shapes, backsplash tiles are available in grid-like square; subway-style rectangle; honeycomb hexagon; curvy arabesque; and argyle-like diamond. Popular designs include staggered rectangular subway; ceramic brick made to look like the real thing; zig-zaggy herringbone/chevron; and simple pre-set grid sheets.

Sticky situation

High-end, specialty tile installation is best left to the pros. Peel-and-stick tiles are easy enough for most people to do themselves.

Many interior designers, however, frown upon peel-and-stick as a low-rent solution for a high-end room.

“They definitely have a place,” says Sandra Flora of Vancouver’s Sandra Flora Home Design . “Maybe as a temporary update for a rental space or an RV, or if you’re on a fixed budget, but I would never substitute a peel-and- stick tile for the real thing. If you have your own home and you want your kitchen done right so it’s going to last, I would invest in permanent tiles.”

Flora says she can spot cheap peel-and-stick from across a room. “You’ll see lifting, peeling, wear and tear. Sometimes they pull the drywall right off when you try to remove them.”

Marie-Maude Hannan, developpement des affaires for Quebec-based Inoxia Walls , says her company’s SpeedTiles are made of the real thing — stone, glass, marble, metal and, soon, porcelain. And they come with a 10-year warranty.

“We have a few models that are groutable so once they’re installed nobody knows that they’re peel-and-stick because they look exactly the same as any traditional tile,” says Hannan. “You can’t tell them apart, I assure you.”

Against the walls

Laying traditional tiles can be an involved, multi-day process requiring wall sanding, spreading adhesive or mortar with a trowel, laying the tiles precisely, placing tile-spacers, one to two days of drying then grouting, then, after a few days of curing, sealing and caulking.

Peel-and-stick are much easier. “I’m not a handy person and I did my backsplash myself in one morning,” says Hannan, noting that, because the tiles are made of real materials, they do need to be cut with tools.

She says you can even install Inoxia’s tiles over existing tiles, provided the surface is clean, smooth, level and non-porous. If not, it would have to be primed to prevent it absorbing the adhesive.

Peel-and-stick tiles can be pretty unforgiving — if you make a mistake, you’re stuck, literally. Hannan says there’s a trick to avoid that. “Mix water and a bit of dish soap in an empty 500-750 ml spray bottle, spray the back of the tile with the solution and spread it over the entire tile with your hands. This will delay the bond for maybe 30 seconds to allow you to place it correctly.”

She says if you tire of the tiles after a few years you’ll have to remove them the same way you would with traditional tiles that were installed using mortar because the adhesive is so strong the wall will come off with the tile.

She says tiles that require grout can be installed on a shower wall but not the floor because they are so thin they could break. Also, “We don’t recommend the ones without grout in wet areas, not because of the adhesion but because, even though they’re really tight, there can be micro gaps in between the tiles (that could cause) mildew buildup. But for the grouted tiles, as long as the wall is prepped correctly, just as with any other tile, then there is no issue at all.”

Hannan says, depending on the type of tile, most can be cleaned with a washcloth, water and mild soap.

Matching tile with decor

Before selecting the style of tile, Flora first considers the style of the space she’s decorating.

“I’ll take the client’s artwork into consideration. If it’s very expensive, they’re not going to change that so I’ll work around it so the tiling complements it. I also take into consideration countertops, flooring, lighting, paint colour, hardware, cabinets, unless they’re willing to change it. I might get them to swap out the hardware on their kitchen cabinets and bring in a punch of cool colours and patterns to the tile.”

For design elements, Flora will often add a few decorative ceramic tiles with features such as handmade paintings. “There are some beautiful tiles that have an Amalfi Coast setting. You can add a mosaic type in behind a stove, sometimes in a shower insert. You can never go wrong with light colours and the odd few pops of forest greens, tans, creams. Pink or purple wouldn’t be something I would do because it’s too trendy. This isn’t something you’re going to do every few years because it’s very expensive.”

She prefers natural stone and simple ceramic tiles which she says never go out of style. “Subway tile is great when it’s used in the right layout and with the right colour grout. A lot of designers stay away from subway tile because they see it as dated. I don’t. I see it as timeless, classic.”

She also avoids grey, which she says can be very drab, especially in Vancouver in the fall and winter when we get a lot of rain. “If you bring in some lighter, brighter colours it opens up and brightens up a space and changes the mood.”

If you do opt for peel-and-stick, Hannan says it’s important to differentiate between quality tiles like Inoxia’s and cheaper vinyl or plastic options.

“I’m no expert in those but from what I’ve seen and heard, sometimes they can yellow or crack with time. Because they’re made to be a temporary solution the adhesive is not extra powerful so they can fall off. You also cannot put them over heat so (they won’t work) as a backsplash behind your stove because they’ll burn. Our peel-and-stick is much faster, much easier, but look exactly the same. It’s the best of both worlds.”

Related

• Rewiring the way we think about lighting
• Set the stage to showcase your house for sale

If you want to get the most for your money at the garden center, it helps to know which plants give you the biggest return on your investment. Some plants grow quickly enough to create a privacy hedge in just a few years, while others provide landscape interest across multiple seasons. Many produce absolutely beautiful blooms, while others can be easily propagated to fill out your landscape for free, without spending another dime.

I'm Gardening Know How's Digital Community Manager and in-house plant shopping expert. I'm also a former garden center manager with over 20 years of experience, so I know which plants give gardeners the biggest bang for their buck at the cash register.

This is the latest installment in my Garden Center Secrets series, where I share Insider tips only garden center employees know to help you shop smarter at the nursery. Here are the plants worth spending your money on.

1. Panicle Hydrangea

(Image credit: Wut_Moppie / Shutterstock)

If you want a plant that definitely earns its keep in the garden, panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) are hard to beat. Unlike some other types of hydrangeas, these reliable bloomers produce flowers every year, regardless of when or how you prune. This takes away one of the biggest frustrations gardeners have with hydrangeas: wondering whether you’ll actually get flowers this year.

This species also puts on a spectacular show, producing large, cone-shaped blooms that often emerge in one color and gradually change to richer, more vibrant shades as the season progresses.

Depending on the cultivar, they can grow in full sun or part shade in USDA zones 3–9, and a small, inexpensive 1-gallon plant can become a substantial landscape plant in just a few years. Plant several together, and you can even create an attractive flowering privacy hedge.

And there’s another way these hydrangeas can give you more for your money: they’re surprisingly easy to propagate from cuttings. In fact, I have even propagated them accidentally after leaving some of my clippings on the ground over winter.

Shop Panicle Hydrangeas

First Editions 3 Gal. Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea Shrub

Proven Winners Colorchoice 6" Limelight Panicle Hydrangea

Groundbreaker Ruby Hydrangea

2. Cranesbill Geranium

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

When it comes to getting the most bang for your buck from a perennial, few plants can compete with hardy cranesbill geranium ‘Rozanne.’ The price of this plant may catch you off guard, as it can cost a little more than some other perennials (though Nature Hills stocks them for about $20), but this is one plant where the extra investment is well worth it.

This is one of the longest-blooming perennials you can add to your garden in zones 4–8. Its violet-blue, saucer-shaped flowers appear in abundance above deep green foliage that remains attractive even when the plant isn’t blooming, and the blooms just keep coming from late spring well into fall.

But here’s where ‘Rozanne’ really earns its keep: that little plant you bring home can grow into a 2-3 foot clump in just a season or two, without becoming invasive. It can handle everything from moist soil to well-drained conditions and even periods of drought. It grows happily in full sun or part shade, making it an easy fit for just about any spot in the landscape.

And once your plant gets established, it can easily be divided and replanted elsewhere in the garden. So that initial investment can eventually give you even more plants to fill your landscape.

3. Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry

(Image credit: Inna Giliarova / Shutterstock)

Serviceberry (Amelanchier × grandiflora 'Autumn Brilliance') is one of those trees I think just about every landscape should have because it offers something for nearly every season. It’s an especially useful small landscape tree, spanning zones 3–9, and you’ll often find it offered in both tree and shrub forms. The tree forms are compact enough to plant safely near the corner of your house, making them an excellent choice for foundation plantings.

You can pick up a small starter serviceberry at Walmart for a reasonable price.

I picked serviceberry for this list because it provides something interesting in just about every season. In very early spring, small white flowers cover the branches, often blooming before many other plants have even started to wake up. That makes them an important early source of food for pollinators when there aren’t many other flowers available.

Those flowers are followed by sweet, edible, blueberry-like fruits that can be enjoyed by both people and wildlife. So you get a harvest for yourself while also adding an excellent food source for birds and other wildlife in your yard.

And serviceberry doesn’t quit when summer is over. Its foliage provides beautiful seasonal interest in fall, often turning vibrant shades before dropping. In winter, the attractive, multicolored bark adds welcome color and texture to an otherwise dreary landscape.

4. Ornamental Grass

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Ornamental grasses are some of the most overlooked plants in the garden, yet they can offer some of the best bang for your buck. A single small potted grass can grow into a dramatic specimen in just a few years, filling a large area of the landscape for a fraction of what you might spend on a similarly sized shrub. Some varieties can reach 6 feet tall or more, creating an impressive focal point while adding movement and texture to the garden. Of course, not every landscape needs a 6-foot-tall grass, and there are plenty of dwarf and compact varieties that can fit into almost any garden.

Beyond their size and versatility, ornamental grasses provide structure throughout the seasons. Depending on the variety, they can also add beautiful winter interest, with seedheads that stand well into the colder months. And when it comes to maintenance, many require little more than a simple cutback in early spring before new growth begins.

They can also become an investment that keeps giving. Once a grass has had a few years to establish into a substantial clump, you can divide it in early spring or fall using a shovel or sharp blade to separate a portion of the root ball from the main plant. Replant those divisions elsewhere in your landscape, and one plant can eventually become several.

Just be selective about the grasses you bring home. Look for native species or well-behaved cultivars suited to your area, and always check whether a particular variety has a history of becoming invasive.

Shop Ornamental Grasses

Proven Winners Prairie Winds 'October Sky' Switch Grass

Dwarf Purple Fountain Grass

Proven Selections All Gold Japanese Forest Grass

5. Catmint

(Image credit: Fotolinchen / Getty Images)

Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is hard to beat when it comes to stretching your garden budget. Depending on the variety, these plants typically grow anywhere from 12 to 36 inches tall and wide, making them incredibly versatile. You can tuck them into just about any corner or section of the garden that needs a splash of color in zones 3–8.

Some older catmint varieties can be prone to sprawl or flop open, but the recently introduced Cat’s Meow variety, available from Proven Winners via Amazon, maintains a more attractive, rounded mound that is often mistaken for lavender.

One of the best things about catmint is how easy it is to grow. It thrives in dry soil and easily handles drought conditions, so it doesn’t ask much from you once it’s established. After that first flush of blooms in spring, give the plant a good cutback to encourage a more compact, tidy shape while also promoting another round of blooms for an even longer display.

Catmint is also a fantastic choice for low-maintenance landscapes. It’s deer- and rabbit-resistant, has a long blooming period, and naturally forms a dense, rounded shape that works beautifully along borders, in front-of-house plantings, or throughout a perennial garden. Its aromatic foliage is another bonus, and its flowers are highly attractive to pollinators.

And the value doesn’t stop with the original plant. Like many perennials, catmint can be divided in early spring or fall, allowing you to turn one established plant into several new plants for other areas of the landscape.

6. Black-Eyed Susans

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) is one of those perennials you can almost forget about until summer arrives and suddenly they burst into bloom. And what a welcome sight they are, especially when some of the earlier-blooming perennials are starting to fade, and the landscape needs a fresh splash of color.

These tough, long-blooming perennials produce masses of golden, daisy-like flowers with unmistakable dark brown central cones that return year after year. Once established, they can gradually spread to create even more color in the landscape. They look especially impressive planted in masses, but they also make excellent cut flowers.

Another reason black-eyed Susan offers so much value is how easily it can be divided. In spring, established plants can be divided to create even more color throughout your landscape or to share with family and friends. And when fall arrives, resist the temptation to cut those flowerheads back. The dark seed cones provide wonderful winter interest and remain attractive well into the colder months. Even better, those seeds provide an important food source for small birds.

They’re also remarkably adaptable. Black-eyed Susans perform well in full sun or part shade in zones 3–9, grow happily in average garden soil, and can tolerate dry conditions once established. Many varieties are native to North America, making them an excellent choice for creating a beautiful, resilient, and wildlife-friendly landscape.

Be sure to look for Black-eyed Susans in the clearance section in fall after the blooms have faded. You might even find an established plant at an even better price!

Plant Addicts has a great selection of black-eyed Susan plants, including the newly launched Treasure Trove variety, which offers superior disease resistance and is less prone to flopping.

How to Get Even More Bang For Your Buck

If you really want to stretch your garden budget, there are a few more tricks that can save you a surprising amount of money. Sometimes the best value isn't finding the cheapest plant; it's finding a way to turn one small investment into an entire garden.

• Grow from Seed
  One of the easiest ways to save money is to grow perennial flowers from seed rather than buying established gallon-size plants. A packet of seeds may cost just a few dollars, compared with $15, $20, or more for a single large perennial at the garden center. You'll have to wait a little longer for those tiny seedlings to become substantial plants, but the savings can be enormous. Some great perennials to try from seed include purple coneflower, Shasta daisy, columbine, yarrow, foxglove, lupine, and bee balm.
• Divide and Multiply
  Another smart investment is choosing perennials that naturally form larger clumps and can be divided into multiple plants over time. Hostas, sedum, daylilies, iris, phlox, garden peonies, and astilbe are all excellent examples. Start with one healthy plant, let it establish for a few years, and eventually you can divide it to create new plants for other parts of your landscape.
• Buy in Bulk
  Finally, don’t overlook those smaller plants tucked away in six-packs or flats. They may look tiny compared to the gallon-size perennials sitting beside them, but buying several smaller plants at once can offer significant savings. They’ll take a little longer to fill in, but with a bit of patience, those small plants will grow into the same beautiful garden for considerably less money.

Fall bulb planting has changed dramatically. Gone are the days of picking up some bulbs, scattering them throughout the garden, and looking forward to a spring display.

Today it’s more about creating a specific look in a specific area for a specific time. There is a six-month window of opportunity and creative gardeners are doing some amazing things.

There’s also a great deal of competition for those bulbs. They’re great food for rodents, and squirrels are some of the leading culprits. Plan A is to avoid planting their favourites, and Plan B is being a lot more creative than they are.

Safe bets are the very large narcissus family, giving you many options in size and timing. The allium family is becoming very popular and offers great diversity in varieties. Since rodents are not fans of onions, they also stand a good chance of making it. Also not rodent friendly, the unique fritillaries are a good choice. They add a fun yet natural look to the garden. Surprisingly, snow drops, or Galanthus, are not on the rodent menu, giving us a mid-winter show to kick off our bulb display season.

Planted now, your snow drops should start to appear in late December or early January, depending on the winter weather. Planted around trees and shrubs, in among ground covers like sedums and the black mondo grass, and next to dark foliaged heucheras, they make for great combinations. More folks are planting bulbs in lawn areas where they can naturalize and multiply each year all nestled in a nice green blanket.

The vibrant colours of crocus can be used in the same ways, but you’ll have some competition for these tasty bulbs. The simplest and easiest way to protect them is by covering your plantings with a small weave wire mesh. It can stay in the ground year-round as the bulbs flower through the mesh and the leaves will come and go without anyone noticing. Another deterrent is strongly scented herb leaves like mint and chives, which, when sprinkled over the plantings and covered with soil, will help repel rodents.

Although not actually rodent proof, the whole family of muscari, or grape hyacinths, seem to have little attraction for our bulb eating friends. Muscari multiply and naturalize easily and planted among ground covers, evergreen perennials, and evergreen shrubs like dwarf azaleas and rhododendrons, they look quite stunning. The fact they are now available in shades of blue, white, and pink further broadens their appeal. The world’s number one bulb show garden, Keukenhof in Holland, uses them everywhere as an accent. They make a stunning display initially, and then improve as they multiply each year. I would simply scatter some chives and mint leaves around them when planting for some insurance.

The most impressive narcissus are the smaller varieties like the bulbicodiums and Tete a Tetes. Bulbicodium bulbs are about the same size as a crocus and can be used in the same way as companions to ground covers, evergreen perennials, and low broadleafed shrubs. Tete a Tete narcissus, while one of the smallest, are the most floriferous in the world and can produce from six to nine flowers per bulb the first year. They are also the best indoor forcing mini-daffodils for containers and pots, with great lasting qualities too. These would be my number one pick for patio pots, but they might need a little protection in cold winters.

Don’t forget the cut flower trend is still huge today and the late flowering narcissus like n. Cheerfulness, n. Yellow Cheerfulness, n. Geranium, and n. Bridal Crown are some of the most fragrant, longest stemmed, and latest to bloom.

Narcissus really do have so much to offer. Two of my favourite narcissus are n. Yellow Brick Road, a blend of early, mid- and late-season yellows that greatly extends the blooming season, and n. Reynfeld’s Early Sensation, the earliest narcissus to bloom. Depending on how mild the winter is, I have seen them beautify dark, chilly January days — a promise of spring well before its time.

Tulip bulbs are perhaps the most at risk from our rodent population. I would cover them all with a slightly wider mesh to not only protect them, but allow them to multiply and naturalize in place.

My favourites are the mini-botanical varieties. With bulbs the size of crocus they make a nice snack for those cute little squirrels so they also need to be protected with fine wire mesh covering and I would add some chives and mint as well.

The many families of tulips bloom in sequence, from the Greigiis, the Kaufmanniana single early and double early, the Triumphs, the Darwins, Darwin hybrid fringed, double Peony flowered, green flamed Viridifloras, and finally the lily-flowered and parrots. There are so many spectacular varieties out there, it is no secret that they are Canada’s number one cut flower in terms of numbers sold. Maybe splurge a little and pop just a few of the more spectacular varieties.

A special all natural, eco-friendly product called Bobbex, one we use on plants to deter deer and rabbits, is now available as Bobbex R. which is specifically formulated for rodents. Dip the bulbs in a solution of this and it will make a huge difference in the safety of your bulbs, especially tulips.

If you have never tried fritillarias before, plant few this year. They are not only unique and beautiful, but they, especially the fritillaria Crown Imperial, deter rodents as well.

Alliums have become the young gardeners’ dream plant because of their sheer size and the stunning round flower heads. They are outstanding pollinators as well. If you mix them with the newer perennial varieties, you can get them to bloom over most of the summer.

Don’t miss the opportunity this fall to spice up your garden with these fabulous spring flowering bulbs and don’t forget to protect them from the varmints.

Related

• Brian Minter: How these big, blooming hydrangeas have taken the gardening world by storm
• Brian Minter: This time of year your garden soil needs some help. Here's how

Call me sentimental, but I feel sad seeing those vegetable beds that overflowed with produce all summer lie empty in October. Gone are the bright red tomatoes, the sprawling zucchini, and the leafy greens growing in lush rows. All that remains is a little debris and bare garden soil. Likewise, beds once filled with colorful annual flowers may now look rather sorry for themselves.

Seeing those sad, abandoned rows was what originally prompted me to try growing cover crops in the fall. But once I got into the habit, I discovered so many other benefits that I now recommend them to friends, family, neighbors – and you. In fact, cover crops offer many of the same benefits as mulch, suppressing weeds, improving soil structure, and protecting against erosion. They can also act as green manure, adding valuable organic matter and nutrients to the soil when you cut them down and incorporate them before spring planting.

Growing fall cover crops isn’t difficult, but it helps to get the information you need up front, including how to prepare the soil, which cover crops to plant, and when to plant them. That’s why I’ve pulled it all together for you in this article.

Why Bare Soil Is a Problem Over Winter

Even if you don’t feel sentimental about the deserted autumn beds, there are many reasons not to leave garden soil bare over winter. The practice can damage soil health, structure, and fertility.

Let’s think about erosion first. When plants grow in soil, their roots anchor it in place, preventing the precious top layer from blowing away. Winter’s worst can easily blow or wash away bare soil. That reduces the amount of topsoil that spring crops have to grow in.

Beyond washing away topsoil, winter rain can leach water-soluble nutrients from the soil. These vital nutrients are essential to growing a healthy spring crop. In addition, it can leave the soil crusted over, damage soil structure by removing air spaces, and generally leave it severely compacted.

Soil like this is not a good place to plant spring vegetables or flowers, but the weeds don’t object. In fact, aggressive winter weeds invade the bare ground, followed by nettles and bindweeds, as well as other early spring weeds.

(Image credit: Maxim Gutsal / Shutterstock)Benefits of Cover Crops

Cover crops address almost all bare-soil-over-winter issues, and they do it in spades. When you plant fall cover crops, their roots dive deep and hold the soil firmly in place. Weed roots are tougher than winter wind and heavy rain. That means that they prevent erosion. That’s important, but it’s not the whole story.

Installing fall cover crops also keeps winter weeds away, or at least dramatically reduces their number. They also stop the soil from crusting, improve the soil structure, and add additional organic matter back into the soil to get it ready for spring planting.

Be sure to wait 2–3 weeks after terminating the cover crops in spring before planting.

(Image credit: Getty Images)5 Top Fall Cover Crops

So, which cover crops should you grow? The best choice depends on your climate, soil, and what you plan to plant in spring. Some are particularly good at suppressing weeds, while others improve soil fertility or help break up compacted ground.

The good news is they are not expensive – you can pick up a 5-variety collection from Survival Garden Seeds on Amazon for about $10. For larger areas, consider a 10lb cover crop mixture from Outsidepride.

Here are some of the best options for protecting and improving your garden beds over winter.

1. Winter Rye

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

If you are just wading into the world of fall cover crops, winter rye (aka cereal rye) is one of the best places to start. This extremely cold-hardy, cool-season grass should be planted about four weeks before the first hard freeze. It is easy to grow and very reliable. You can pick up a 10lb bag of winter rye seeds from CZ Grains at Walmart.

Winter rye has deep, fibrous roots that stop erosion in its tracks. In fact, those roots can also loosen and break up heavy clay and choke out weeds. But it offers a second layer of weed protection: the plants release chemicals that block some weeds, like pigweed. In addition, those roots trap and hold residual nitrogen and minerals over winter, preventing leaching.

Chop out winter rye in early spring before it gets too woody.

2. Hairy Vetch

(Image credit: zzz555zzz / Shutterstock)

Hairy vetch is another great fall cover crop. It is a hardy winter annual legume and an especially effective cover crop because it fixes large amounts of nitrogen in the soil, up to 200 pounds per acre. That means that, come spring, you don’t need to add fertilizer.

The roots of this legume prevent erosion over the winter. It is a dense vining crop, with spring growth up to 12 feet (4 m) tall. It completely shades out any early-spring weeds.

Plant this cover crop early enough for the roots to be well established before the first hard freeze. You’ll want to take out your hairy vetch cover crop in spring while the plant is in the early bud or early flower stage.

Buy hairy vetch seeds from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon.

3. Crimson Clover

(Image credit: Venars.original / Shutterstock)

This cover crop is attractive and effective. Crimson clover is just plain pretty for a legume, with bright crimson, cone-shaped flowers that attract bees and beneficial insects in spring. It’s a good choice for those living in regions with milder winters.

Sweet Yards sells crimson clover in various pack sizes on Amazon.

Crimson clover is a cool-season annual legume that grows rapidly. It fixes nitrogen in the soil, adding up to 200 pounds per acre, which is perfect for fertilizing your spring garden. What about weeds? Crimson clover forms a dense ground cover mat that totally blocks weeds.

Plant clover seeds up to eight weeks before the first frost. It grows best in well-draining soil. This is a cover crop that is easy to terminate in spring since it dies back or breaks down easily, unlike aggressive root crops. Mow it down before it goes fully to seed. Wait a few weeks before planting your next spring crop.

4. Austrian Winter Peas

(Image credit: McKinneMike / Getty Images)

Austrian winter peas – or winter field peas – are cool-season annual legumes that are popular fall cover crops. Like other legumes, these peas fix nitrogen in the soil, producing up to 150 pounds of nitrogen per acre, to the benefit of your spring crops.

Outsidepride sells Austrian winter peas via Amazon in various pack sizes.

These plants are lush vines that carpet the soil. Just by growing, they choke out winter weeds. If you use rye or oats as companion plants for fall cover crops, they will provide upright physical support for winter pea stems.

Plant Austrian winter peas a month or two before the first hard frost in your area. It’s best to give these peas five or more weeks of growth to establish strong root systems and low, compact growth before freezing temperatures arrive. Come spring, these are easy plants to terminate. Their hollow stems can be chopped down in spring once they hit full bloom.

5. Winter Oats

(Image credit: Natalya Rozhkova / Shutterstock)

These are fast-growing cool-season annual grasses that make an exceptional cover crop. You can pick up a pack of winter oats seeds from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon. The plants’ dense, fibrous roots anchor the topsoil in place all winter long and also break up compacted earth.

Winter oats germinate quickly, helping them smother winter weeds. The plants also absorb soil nitrogen and release it back to microorganisms as they break down.

Winter oats often die back from winter frost. But this doesn’t stop their cover-crop value. The dead grass forms a natural, easy-to-manage mulch blanket.

Shop Cover Crop Seeds

Survival Garden Seeds Cover Crop Seeds – 5 Variety Collection

Outsidepride Gardenway Cover Crop Seeds – 10 Lbs Mixture

Cover Crop Seeds (Organic) – Mixed

Spending time in the backyard is high on most people’s priority list. Whether gardening or clearing, playing games, or just relaxing, most of us crave a sanctuary from all the pressures of life – without the worry of prying eyes. To help give that privacy, it helps to add evergreen hedges, screens, or specimen plants that naturally create a lush, living buffer between your space and the outside world.

Year-round foliage not only makes the yard feel more secluded, but it also reduces street noise, blocks unsightly views, and provides vital shelter and food for birds. By installing a green screen, you can soften property edges with ornamental value, especially if you use flowering or scented privacy ideas. For maximum sound dampening and visual screening, you can add layers, planting taller specimens in the background and medium shrubs and spreading groundcovers in front.

These privacy ideas can also incorporate vertical vines where space is restricted. Climbing vines cover trellises, fences, or arbors quickly, usually in as little as one season. Choosing evergreen species ensures your boundary stays lush even when deciduous favorites lose their leaves. Just be sure to select well-behaved varieties and avoid invasive runners like English ivy. The list below will hopefully inspire you to add vital layers of privacy in beautiful new ways.

Planting Privacy Plants in October

October is one of the best times for planting evergreen screens, shrubs, trees, and woody vines. While top growth slows down as air temperatures cool, the soil retains heat from summer. This combination encourages new plant roots to establish rapidly without the stress of hot late summer days. Roots settled now will continue growing until ground frost hits, giving your privacy plants a massive head start come spring.

When preparing your sites, focus on soil quality. Dig planting holes twice as wide as the nursery container to give roots room to expand. It’s also a good idea to mix organic compost or worm castings into the earth to improve moisture retention and soil structure. Try a handful of Earth Science Earthworm Castings from Amazon to enhance soil health in a gentle, organic way. For heavy clay or sandy soils, dehydrated organic amendments help to boost proper drainage, preventing root rot.

(Image credit: Nnattalli / Shutterstock)

Give some thought to your USDA hardiness zone and local climate. Regional considerations are key with fall planting. In colder northern regions (zones 3-6), you need to finish planting by late October, so roots settle before deep ground freezes. However, southern gardeners (zones 7-10) can plant through November. Finish each fall planting with a 3-inch (8cm) layer of organic mulch to insulate roots against freeze-thaw cycles. Let’s meet our privacy screens, hedge plants, vines and shrubs.

1. Skyrocket Juniper

(Image credit: Organica / Alamy)

When you need rapid vertical privacy in tight spaces, Skyrocket juniper is a brilliant needle evergreen. Hardy in zones 3-9, this pencil-thin cultivar grows 15-20 feet (4.5-6m) tall, while maintaining a narrow spread of 2-3 feet (60-90cm). Its dense, silvery blue-green foliage holds its crisp color year-round, creating a formal living screen along property lines, narrow side yards, or patio borders without encroaching on lawn space. You can buy Skyrocket Juniper Trees from Nature Hills for fast-growing vertical screening in narrow spaces.

Skyrocket (Juniperus scopulorum 'Skyrocket') thrives in full or partial sun, and adapts easily to lean, dry or sandy soils, if drainage is sharp. It’s very drought-tolerant once established, and requires virtually no pruning to maintain its spire-like shape. Plant it in a sunny spot, where it can receive at least 6hours of sunlight daily. Don't overwater or plant in poorly draining, soggy soil. Pair it with low-growing flowering shrubs or ornamental grasses for a stunning layered boundary.

2. Star Jasmine

(Image credit: Satura86 / Getty Images)

If you’re after a fence or trellis screening that can fill the space with unforgettable fragrance, star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is an evergreen vine like no other. Hardy in zones 8-10 (and grown in sheltered courtyard containers in colder zones), this twining climber has glossy, dark green leaves that remain lush all year long. As a pretty bonus, in late spring and early summer, it erupts with hundreds of starry, pure-white flowers that can fill the yard with intoxicating scent.

This evergreen climber grows rapidly, reaching 18-20 feet (5.5-6m) tall with sturdy support. It handles full sun to partial shade, though flowering is most profuse in sunny spots. It just needs a sturdy lattice, pergola, or wire trellis for its twining stems to cling to in the first place. Don't prune heavily in early spring, as it sets flower buds on old wood. In autumn, its glossy foliage can often take on attractive bronze or purplish tones in cooler weather. You can buy Expert Gardener Star Jasmine Live Plants from Walmart for quick-growing fragrance and year-round lush growth.

3. Fragrant Tea Olive

(Image credit: Magicflute002 / Getty Images)

Fragrant tea olive is a dense broadleaf evergreen shrub prized for intense scent and heavy cover in southern landscapes. Hardy in zones 8-11, this glossy green screen shrub produces glossy, dark green foliage that forms a thick barrier 10-15 feet (3-4.5m) tall. While its small flower clusters look subtle, they deliver a rich, sweet perfume reminiscent of ripe apricots and peaches during fall and early spring. You can buy Orange Flowering Fragrant Tea Olive from Amazon for its sweet scent and bright blooms as well as its dense year-round privacy screening.

Tea olive (Osmanthus fragrans) performs best in full sun to partial shade in moist, well-draining soil. Popular cultivars include Apricot Gold, which features striking apricot-orange blooms, and Butter Yellow for cream-colored flowers. Plant it near outdoor seating, windows, or entries where its fall fragrance can be appreciated. Just don't prune heavily in late summer, as blooms form on previous season's growth. It makes a lovely formal hedge or background screen with lower flowering perennials.

4. Broadleaf Rhododendron PJM

(Image credit: NancyKennedy / Getty Images)

If you want an evergreen privacy shrub that thrives in cold northern climates, while offering vibrant seasonal shifts, the PJM rhododendron is a gorgeous plant for privacy. Hardy in zones 4-8, this tough broadleaf evergreen grows into a dense, rounded shrub that is 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8m) tall. In spring, it fills with lavender-pink blooms. Then, in fall and winter, its leather-like leaves transform into a mahogany-bronze tone that adds rich color to snowy winter borders.

This rhodie handles winter wind and freezing conditions far better than traditional large-leaf rhododendrons. It thrives in partial shade and dappled sun, and only needs acidic, moist, well-drained soil. Top-dress with some pine needles or acidic leaf compost to help maintain optimal growing conditions into winter, and underplant with shade-loving spring bulbs or Japanese forest grass. You can buy Rhododendron PJM Elite Plants from Walmart for lush year-round interest at an impressive scale.

5. Carolina Jessamine

(Image credit: Orthosie / Getty Images)

Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) is a native evergreen vine that brings cheery sunshine color in late winter, as well as dense vertical screening. Hardy in zones 7-10, its wiry, reddish stems climb over fences, trellises, and arbors, reaching 10-20 feet (3-6m). Its glossy green leaves provide year-round privacy, while late winter and early spring bring clusters of bright trumpet blooms that attract early pollinators.

This low-maintenance climber grows happily in full sun to partial shade, plus a wide variety of soil types, quickly producing thick fence cover. It is naturally deer-resistant and heat-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for sunny fence lines, porch railings, or mailbox trellises. Just don't allow livestock or pets to ingest the plant, as all parts contain toxic alkaloids. You can buy Carolina Jessamine from Trees at a real bargain, plus there’s a discount code if you hurry.

6. Green Giant Arborvitae

(Image credit: Anand Purohit / Getty Images)

For fast, impenetrable privacy screens that form a feathery living wall, arborvitae Green Giant (Thuja standishii × plicata) is an impressive choice. Hardy in zones 5-9, this hybrid evergreen tree grows at an astonishing 3-5 feet (90cm-1.5m) per year, rapidly maturing to 30-40 feet (9-12m) with a broad base 6-12 feet (1.8-3.6m) wide. Its soft, fan-like foliage remains bright year-round without bronzing in winter cold. You can currently buy Thuja Green Giant from Trees for a very generous discount.

This quick-growing evergreen is very adaptable, handling full sun to partial shade and thriving in rich, moist, well-draining soils. Unlike delicate arborvitae varieties, it has exceptional resistance to heavy snow and is rarely bothered by deer. Just space each tree 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8m) apart for a tight, solid hedge, and don't allow young trees to dry out during their first season in the ground. These evergreens make an effective windbreak, noise barrier, or background screen along wide property edges.

7. Camellia

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Camellias are gorgeous winter bloomers, combining dense broadleaf evergreen privacy with jaw-dropping color, as many other plants are resting. Hardy in zones 7-10, Camellia sasanqua species grow into lush shrubs 6-10 feet (1.8-3m) tall. From October to December, when much else is dormant, they produce elegant ruffled flowers that pop against dark, glossy foliage. Buy Warm Hearted Ruby Camellia Plants from Plant Addicts for magenta blooms and a substantial upright habit.

Camellia sasanqua is more sun-tolerant and open-growing than its spring-blooming cousin (C. japonica), making it ideal for hedges. These vibrant beauties prefer partial shade, protected from harsh afternoon sun, and thrive in moist, acidic, well-drained soil. Use as formal hedges, specimen patio plants, or foundation plantings alongside hydrangeas and ferns.

Creating a private sanctuary doesn't require lots of extra tall wooden fences. By introducing a thoughtful mix of fast-growing evergreens, fragrant broadleaf shrubs, and lush climbing vines this October, you can quickly create a living, multi-layered green wall that shields your home year-round. Pick your favorite varieties, get planting this fall, and enjoy a secluded, beautiful garden for years to come…

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

I don't know about you, but I'm always looking for a little inspiration to get me out into the garden as the seasons change. And if there's one person making fall cleanup look positively magical right now, it's Pamela Anderson.

The actor and gardening enthusiast recently shared a video on Instagram captioned, "A beautiful fall morning from the garden… another clean up day," along with a few of her favorite October gardening jobs.

Honestly, it's the sort of thing that makes you want to put the kettle on, pull on your gardening gloves, and spend a few hours pottering among your plants, Pamela Anderson-style.

Check it out:

A post shared by Pamela Anderson (@pamelaanderson)

A photo posted by

Moving through her garden in the soft fall light, Pamela has her pruners at the ready as she tends to her roses and gathers fresh produce, including carrots, tomatoes, and peppers. There's even a wonderfully whimsical soundtrack, accompanied by little murmured observations such as "the early bird gets the first worm."

Honestly, if all gardening chores came with that kind of fairytale atmosphere, I might be a lot more enthusiastic about getting them done. But beneath the dreamy aesthetic, Pamela Anderson's video is also a timely reminder that fall is an important season for garden maintenance (even if it's just to do this one expert-approved job).

Pamela Anderson's Fall Cleanup Advice

That's right, folks; Pamela Anderson's video isn't just a mood, but a blueprint for a well-functioning garden in the autumn.

With that in mind, then, here are a few jobs worth tackling now to help your plants make it through the colder months – and to make the most of any vegetables still growing in your beds.

1. Show Your Roses Some Love

(Image credit: Lars Forsstedt / Getty Images)

One of the first things that caught my eye in Pamela Anderson's video was her tending to her roses, pruners in hand. Still, fall generally isn't the time for a dramatic cutback, as hard pruning can encourage vulnerable new growth or leave plants more exposed to winter weather.

Instead, focus on what your roses really need in October and stick to removing dead, damaged, or diseased stems, along with fallen leaves and other debris around the base of your plants. And, while you may also be tempted to deadhead every spent bloom, remember it's worth exercising a little restraint. Some roses develop attractive rose hips that provide winter interest and a food source for wildlife, so you don't necessarily want to remove every fading flower.

If you're unsure whether your roses need attention, a little tidying is often better than reaching for the pruners with too much enthusiasm. Save any substantial pruning for the appropriate time for your rose variety and local climate.

Shop Fall Care Rose Essentials:

Pop-Up Rose Cones for Winter Protection – 4 Pack

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch

2. Harvest Your Fall Veggies

(Image credit: Kevin Trimmer / Getty Images)

Pamela Anderson's garden isn't just about beautiful flowers. In the video, she also gathers carrots, tomatoes, and peppers, which is a timely reminder to check what's ready to come inside before colder weather sets in.

If you've been growing vegetables this year, fall is a good opportunity to make the most of your hard work. Carrots can often remain in the ground until you're ready to harvest them, provided the soil conditions are suitable and it isn't at risk of freezing. Tomatoes and peppers, meanwhile, should be picked as they ripen, with any remaining fruit monitored as temperatures fall.

Regular harvesting also gives you a chance to assess which plants have finished producing and which might continue for a little longer. Once your vegetable plants are spent, you can remove them and clear away any diseased material, helping prepare your beds for the next growing season.

Shop Raised Beds:

Self-Watering

Garden in Minutes 17" Tall, 2x6ft All-In-One Raised Garden Bundle

Budget Pick

Yaheetech Raised Garden Bed Wooden Planter Box

Stylish Design

Birdsinyard Galvanized Raised Garden Bed, 4x2x1ft, 2-Pack, Olive Green

Just remember that the best timing depends on your local climate and USDA zone, the varieties you're growing, and the forecast. If a frost is on the way, you may need to harvest tender crops sooner rather than later.

Still, there's something especially satisfying about bringing a basket of homegrown vegetables into the kitchen on a crisp fall morning. It's a lovely reward for all those hours spent watering, weeding, and tending your plants through the summer.

Let Pamela Anderson Show You The Way

What I love about Pamela Anderson's video is that she makes gardening look less like a checklist of chores and more like an opportunity to slow down and enjoy the season. Between the soft light, the whimsical music, and her gentle reminders to pay attention to the world around her, it's a welcome change of pace from the usual rush to get everything ready for winter.

Of course, not every garden needs the same jobs at the same time. Your climate, the plants you're growing, and the weather ahead will all influence what needs doing. But checking on your roses, harvesting ready vegetables, and clearing away diseased plant material? Why, they're all very useful places to start.

So, if your fall garden to-do list has been sitting untouched for a little too long, perhaps Pamela's latest video is the nudge you need. Grab your gloves, find your pruners, and head outside for a little while. You might even find that, with a bit of sunshine and a slower pace, those garden chores feel rather magical after all.

Fallen leaves start piling up in earnest in October, and a lot of homeowners rake every last one out to the curb as soon as they can. Honestly, it makes sense. A bare lawn looks tidy, and a soggy brown carpet of leaves isn’t much fun to look at all winter.

There’s a middle ground, though. Good fall leaf management means getting the thick stuff off the grass and finding those leaves a better home. Beds, borders, compost bins and vegetable plots can all use them, and whatever stays in the yard is mulch and compost you may not have to buy in the spring.

Some leaves need a little extra thought. Oak is slow to break down, and black walnut leaves contain juglone, a compound that can harm tomatoes and other sensitive plants, so it pays to know which trees are dropping what in your yard. Neither one has to go to the curb.

Why Fallen Leaves Can Damage Your Lawn

Why not just leave the leaves where they fall? Scattered leaves won’t hurt the grass – it’s the thick layer that causes trouble. After a couple of rains, leaves pack down into a wet mat that cuts off light and air, and left in place all winter, it can smother and weaken the turf underneath. That damp cover also favors snow mold. In snowier regions, you’ll usually spot it in spring as circular patches of matted, discolored grass, from either pink snow mold (Microdochium nivale) or gray snow mold (Typhula incarnata). Voles and mice like the cover, too, and a lawn buried under leaves can show more of their damage once things thaw.

So, you do need to keep on top of fall leaves – but there's no need to bag them. The rest of the yard can put them to good use with these clever ideas.

1. Improve the Lawn

(Image credit: JJ Gouin / Alamy)

Firstly, you don't need to remove every leaf from your lawn. If there's only a light covering, mow over it with a mulching mower instead. The finely shredded leaf pieces fall between the grass blades, where they quickly break down, feeding the soil and returning nutrients to your lawn without smothering it. If you’re shopping for one, the Ryobi ONE+ 18V 13 in. Cordless Battery Walk Behind Push Lawn Mower, available at Home Depot, includes a mulch plug, making it easy to switch between bagging and mulching.

However, once leaves become too deep for the mower to chop up properly, rake them off. Thick layers of whole leaves can block light, trap moisture, and damage the grass over winter. Rather than sending them to the curb, use them elsewhere in the garden.

2. Shred Them into Free Mulch

(Image credit: Katie Kirkland / Shutterstock)

Whole leaves can make lousy mulch. They often mat into a slick layer that sheds water. Shredded leaves are another matter – they stay loose, let rain through and break down faster. Set the mower on its highest setting and run it over a low row of fairly dry leaves once or twice. That gets them small enough for most beds, though big piles go faster through a leaf shredder, like the WORX 13 Amp Electric Leaf Mulcher, available on Amazon.

Spread the pieces 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) deep around trees, shrubs and perennials and water them in. By spring, you’ll have fewer weeds and soil that stayed moister and steadier in temperature.

3. Make Leaf Mold

(Image credit: Alamy)

Leaf mold is what you get when a pile of leaves is left to rot down slowly, and the result is dark, crumbly, and earthy-smelling. Don’t expect much in the way of nutrients. It’s more of a soil conditioner, improving structure, helping soil hold water, and keeping it mostly weed-free.

Chicken wire bent into a ring makes an easy enclosure, though a vented plastic bin like the Redmon compost bin from Walmart works too, or even just a big plastic bag left loosely closed.

Wet the leaves as you go. Shredded leaves can be ready in about six months, while whole leaves take closer to a year, and a pile nobody touches may take two. Dig it into beds or stir it into potting soil when it’s done.

4. Add Them to the Compost Pile

(Image credit: Maryana Serdynska / Getty Images)

Leaves are a classic “brown” ingredient, full of carbon but short on nitrogen, so a pile of nothing but leaves needs some “greens” to get going. Grass clippings and kitchen scraps both work – with clippings, about two parts leaves to one part grass is a reasonable mix – and keep the pile about as damp as a wrung-out sponge.

A compost thermometer, like the Reotemp from Amazon, shows you when the pile has heated up and when it’s cooling off and ready to turn. Dry leaves keep well, so stash a few RISETEX reusable leaf bags full of them for next summer’s grass clippings.

Oak and magnolia leaves are slow, so shred them first or give them extra time, and keep walnut leaves for a hot, well-managed pile, where juglone breaks down.

5. Use Them to Insulate Tender Plants

(Image credit: Konstantin Zibert / Shutterstock)

Picture a January afternoon warm enough to thaw the soil surface, followed by a hard freeze that night. Repeat that often enough and shallow roots and crowns can get pushed right up out of the ground. Leaves piled on top won’t keep the ground from freezing, and they aren’t meant to. What you want is soil that stays frozen once it freezes, instead of flipping back and forth every time the sun comes out.

Hold off until temperatures have dropped well below freezing, then mound shredded leaves over the crowns of tender perennials. Tea roses need a little more fuss: a ring of chicken wire or burlap around the plant, filled with leaves packed just lightly enough for air to still move through. Soggy, matted leaves sitting on a crown can smother it.

6. Feed Your Vegetable Beds

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Once the last tomatoes and squash come out, an empty vegetable bed has room for a deep layer of leaves. Spread 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) of shredded leaves over the soil and dig or till them in. They’ll keep breaking down through winter, and by spring the bed has more organic matter and microbes, better tilth, and better drainage to show for it.

It can take a lot of trips to haul that many leaves, and Home Depot's True Temper poly wheelbarrow has a roomy 6-cubic-foot (170 L) tub. On smaller beds, you can turn them in by hand with a fork – I like the Truper spading fork, available on Amazon. And don’t worry about oak leaves souring the soil. They’re acidic when fresh, but they break down to roughly neutral.

7. Create a Wildlife Habitat

(Image credit: HWall / Shutterstock)

Want more fireflies and butterflies next summer? Then leave some leaves. Not every corner of the yard has to look raked and finished. Pile some leaves under a shrub or along a back fence and leave them there through winter, and you’ve made shelter for beneficial insects.

Mated bumble bee queens hibernate an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) down in the soil, and a layer of leaves on top gives them extra protection. Firefly larvae use leaf litter for cover as well. So do woolly bears, the fuzzy black-and-rust caterpillars that become Isabella tiger moths. Look closely at an old leaf pile in early spring, and you might spot a swallowtail chrysalis or luna moth cocoon that’s hard to tell from the leaves around it.

When to Remove Leaves (and When to Leave Them Alone)

(Image credit: Nieriss / Shutterstock)

Lawns are the exception to all this leaf-saving. Any thick layer needs to come off before winter, and if you miss a spot and find a flattened, soggy mat in early spring, rake it up right away so it doesn’t hold back green-up. The True Temper 24-inch leaf rake from Home Depot has wide, clog-free tines that suit the job.

Keep an eye on the gutter out front as well. Leaves washed into a storm drain usually wind up in the nearest creek or lake, and rotting leaves there release phosphorus that feeds algae blooms.

In the beds, though, you can relax. Whatever falls under shrubs, around trees, and between perennials will slowly rot down and give nutrients back to the soil, just like leaves do in the woods. It’s kinder to the insects tucked in there, too, if you put off cleaning out beds until spring has properly warmed up.

I always remember what my grandpa always said. “That rake ain’t going nowhere, and neither are the leaves – there’ll be another round of them next October, and the October after that.” Each of those piles is free mulch and compost for the taking, so it seems a shame to send them to the curb.

There are two types of people in this world: those who put one pumpkin outside in October and feel good about it, and those who aspire to be like Martha Stewart. Every autumn, her entire staircase is lined with pumpkins and gourds that look like they were grown by expert garden design fairies. And, as usual, her comment section collectively decides to give up and beg for a tutorial on how to create a fall porch display.

Well, I consulted with a couple of experts to give you that tutorial, so just call me a younger, dark-haired Martha Stewart. If you squint, you won’t even see the difference.

A post shared by Martha Stewart (@marthastewart48)

A photo posted by

The Design Principles Behind It

(Image credit: peterspiro / Getty Images)

Before you even think about raiding a pumpkin patch, you’ll need to understand what makes this display look planned rather than like Halloween decorations set out at HomeGoods in July.

Preeti Shah, founder of Spotlight Style and luxury event producer of over 20 years, is clear on this: "A pumpkin display looks designed when it has a plan. Choose a tight palette, such as creamy whites, soft sage and one deep orange, and repeat it from the bottom step to the door. Vary the sizes, but group them in odd numbers, with the biggest pieces anchoring the corners and the smallest at the front edge. Leave breathing room between groups so the stairs still read as stairs. Then step back and squint. If one spot grabs your eye, move it."

According to Heidi Grasman, gardening expert and co-owner of Garden Crossings, the difference between an autumnal display that looks well-planned and one that looks thrown together on a whim comes down to one thing. She says, "Just throwing pumpkins on a porch is very Halloween-looking – adding in flowers and foliage makes it look decorated." Pumpkins are the supporting cast, not the main event.

Which Varieties to Choose

(Image credit: Alexander Spatari / Getty Images)

If you’re new to decorating and gardening in autumn, you might be surprised to know there are actually different varieties of pumpkins you can choose from. If you're interested in growing your own, you can even buy a Spooky Pumpkin Seed Mix from Seed Needs on Amazon.

The cream and white pumpkins that really anchor Martha’s display are usually Casper, Lumina, or Baby Boo. These all have smooth skin, clean color, and look exceptionally striking against a dark door or stone step.

If you prefer the classic deep orange, Howden or Cinderella (Rouge Vif d'Etampes) will give you that saturation that looks beautiful in fall photos and holds on to its color for several weeks. If you like things to be a little more unique, Galeux d'Eysines has tiny little wart-like skin, while Jarrahdale is a flat, bluish-gray variety. And if you love a good gourd mix as I do, these quirky, unique shapes will fill in the gaps in your display and can add extra interest to the front of each step edge.

Adding Flowers and Foliage

(Image credit: Westend61/Getty Images)

If you're trying to get a similar display to Martha Stewart’s, think outside the box (or pumpkin) with some fall foliage. Grasman recommends using chrysanthemums as the focal point, with foliage doing the structural work. She says, “I like to use coral bells for foliage color, ornamental grass as a thriller or spiller, and then mix the mums in for flower color."

On choosing the right mum: "It's not so much about what variety to choose but where it is at in its bud or bloom stage. If they are looking for instant color, choose one that is more in bloom. If they are looking for the color to last a while, choose one that is just in bud."

Her advice on pumpkins within a planting scheme is useful too. She adds, "Let the pumpkins and vegetables be an accent, not the main show of color. Tucking some ornamental peppers, kale, cabbage into your fall combination planters can add a pretty touch. Let the mums be the focal point."

Shop Pumpkin Planters

Bokon Pumpkin Planters – Pack of 3

Wodellrrea Resin Pumpkin Planter Pot

Rosalind Wheeler Mini Low Pumpkin Planter

Grow Your Own for Next Year

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you’re a purist and want to grow your own pumpkins and gourds for next year, sow them outdoors in late May or early June, or indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost. They need a lot of space (at least 6 feet in each direction for most varieties), but even a small patch can give you enough for a full stair display.

Sow two seeds per station, and once both have germinated, remove the weaker seedling by snipping it at soil level so only the strongest plant remains; then keep it well-watered once the fruits start to develop.

They are ready to harvest when the skin is hard and the stem is dry. Then leave them to dry in a warm spot for 10-14 days. This helps harden the skin, make the orange even orangier, and extend how long they’ll last in your display.

Remember this TL;DR version from Martha Stewart when creating your own autumnal porch display: Same palette, odd numbers, a little foliage, and enough breathing room between the pumpkins.

Rupert Jasper’s Inlay shelf looks assured: vivid blue, clean-lined and cleverly engineered. Its designer is more candid about the uncertainty that went into learning his craft.

There were plenty of days at Design Academy Eindhoven when Jasper felt completely lost. It was almost the point, he says:

“From day one, it’s kind of 100 per cent freedom, which is pretty daunting.”

From Deep Cove to Eindhoven

Jasper began closer to home at Langara College, where the two-year Design Formation program gave him a grounding in architecture, interiors, product design and other disciplines.

Product design was the one that stuck.

When the time came to continue his education, he had the option of Emily Carr University but decided to look further afield.

Design Academy Eindhoven offered a very different kind of experience, and Jasper’s German passport made studying in Europe more accessible.

“I felt like I had a bit of a golden ticket, and I thought I should really utilize this opportunity,” he says.

Eindhoven was less about being shown how to design and more about figuring out what kind of designer you wanted to become.

“You got to choose and craft your own education path,” Jasper says.

Tutors came from different disciplines and brought their own approaches. Jasper describes periods of uncertainty and identity crisis moments, but says learning to navigate that uncertainty has proved useful now that he is working professionally.

After graduating in 2025, he stayed in Europe for almost another 10 months, working with a couple of designers and taking on projects he enjoyed.

He could have stayed longer, but Vancouver was always the plan. “I really wanted to come back and work in Vancouver. It’s my home. I love it here.”

His route into ANDlight came with unusually good timing.

Jasper had previously met ANDlight co-founder Lukas Peet while trying to arrange an internship during his studies. The scheduling did not work out, but the connection remained.

About three weeks after returning to Vancouver, Jasper was downtown waiting to meet a friend for coffee when he stopped outside a showroom to look at a group of ANDlight fixtures.

Peet and ANDlight co-founder Caine Heintzman happened to walk up behind him. They were there to photograph the products.

The three chatted, Jasper mentioned he had just moved home, and later that day Peet emailed to say ANDlight was hiring in production.

“It was kind of a serendipitous moment,” he says.

Jasper spent about 10 months working on the production side before recently moving into the company’s design department as a junior product designer.

“I feel really fortunate,” he says.

More than a shelf

Alongside his work at ANDlight, Jasper’s been developing Inlay.

The system takes cues from mid-century wall-mounted shelving, with a pressed connector that adds strength and visual character.

This connection lets the shelving expand, contract and shift into different configurations, and Jasper is already considering how the same system could work for benches, tables and other furniture.

For IDS, Jasper finished the prototype in an almost electric blue.

Part of that was practical: he wanted it to stand out against the show’s white walls. Part of it was also a reaction to the region’s rather safer design palette.

“I find a lot of the furniture here in the Pacific Northwest is a lot of beige and softer colours, so I wanted to differentiate the piece,” he says.

Inlay was selected for the IDS Vancouver 2026 Prototype Judges Choice Award by Tanja Breadner of Marrimor Objects , David Keeler of Provide and Noah Morse of Sundays , in an exhibition curated by Kaito Forth .

The show also put Jasper in front of interior designers and architects — exactly the people who may eventually specify or work with pieces like his.

“To meet those kinds of people and to make those connections and hear what they’re looking for, what’s catching their eyes. That was really special,” he says.

Related

• The human touch in an AI-designed world
• Studio Roslyn’s duelling hues may seem jarring, but they make total sense

Sugar maples and burning bushes may be spectacular sources of fall color, but they are far from being the only examples of shifting seasonal hues. In many cases, the most popular fall plants offer only a brief burst of red or copper before dropping their leaves almost overnight. If you’re looking for something a little less predictable or fleeting, a few lesser-known options offer unique elements like berries and bark.

October presents a golden opportunity to show some love to these tough perennials and shrubs for fall color. Thanks to a combination of warm soil temperatures and crisp, cool air, they will hit their stride that much quicker. Shrubs and hardy perennials planted now can settle in with minimal stress, developing deep, healthy root networks long before the ground freezes.

Make some room for golden, swaying grasses, deep burgundy bark and stems, and bright berries to feed local wildlife. By expanding your palette, you’ll create a mult-layered and multiseasonal array of tone and texture. Hopefully, these shrubs and perennials will inspire you with diverse visuals that often sustain well into winter. Make more of these dazzling hidden gems for effortless fall color that can keep your garden glowing for months.

Planting Shrubs and Perennials in October

Getting plants into the ground in October is one of the smartest moves you can make. Unlike spring planting, where young roots must cope with rising heat and drought, fall soil holds abundant summer warmth while rains keep moisture levels consistent. This allows young roots and crowns to focus their energy underground.

Just make sure you select plants that will grow well in your USDA hardiness zone. In northern zones (zones 3-6), aim to complete planting by the third week of the month, so roots can anchor before soil temperatures drop sharply. However, in the south (zones 7-10), you can plant comfortably well through November.

(Image credit: Jorge Salcedo / Alamy)

Prepare your planting holes by top-dressing with rich organic compost. This gives young roots a gentle nutrient boost without forcing tender growth that could be damaged by early frosts. A little mushroom compost makes an excellent soil amendment for these fall plantings. Either add a little aged natural mushroom compost, or a handful of Espoma Organic Natural Mushroom Blend, available from Walmart. This is ideal for conditioning planting holes and encouraging deep roots.

Once planted, water your tough perennials and fall shrubs deeply. Apply a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) blanket of organic wood mulch or shredded leaves, as this will help to insulate the roots against winter freeze-thaw cycles. Then sit back and enjoy the lovely spectacle of color and texture these hidden gems bring all season long.

1. Fothergilla Mount Airy

(Image credit: Jorge Salcedo / Alamy)

If you were to choose just one underused native shrub for fall color, fothergilla (Fothergilla spp.) deserves the top spot. While famous for its honey-scented, brush-like spring flowers, autumn is when this compact shrub can really steal the show. Beginning in October, its leathery, witch-hazel-like leaves undergo a mesmerizing transformation, mixing vibrant shades of electric yellow, fiery orange, deep crimson, and rich violet on a single branch.

Hardy in zones 4-8, fothergilla grows 3-5 feet (90-150cm) tall with a neat, mounded habit. It flourishes in full sun to partial shade, though full sun produces the most intense colors. Fothergilla prefers moist, acidic, well-draining soil. Add mulch annually with pine needles or acidic leaf compost to maintain a low soil pH. Alkaline, chalky soils can cause leaf yellowing. Pair this shrub with blue-toned dwarf conifers or Japanese forest grass for gorgeous contrast. To enjoy these dazzling tones in miniature, you can buy Mount Airy Dwarf Fothergilla from Nature Hills.

2. Virginia Sweetspire (Henry’s Garnet)

(Image credit: Botany Vision / Alamy)

Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) is a native deciduous shrub that can even put traditional burning bushes to shame. Forming arching mounds 3-5 feet (90-150cm) high, Henry's Garnet produces fragrant, cascading flower spires in early summer. As autumn arrives, its glossy leaves shift to a saturated garnet-red and port-wine purple that survive further into late autumn than almost any other shrub. You can buy Henry’s Garnet from Plant Addicts for long-lasting shocks of crimson and purple.

Hardy in zones 5-9, it is highly adaptable. It thrives in full sun, partial shade, and even heavy shade (though sun yields the brightest red tones). It is tolerant of wet, clay soils, making it perfect for rain gardens, low-lying garden spots, or erosion control on slopes. Just water consistently during its first year. Don't worry about heavy pruning, as its natural arching habit is part of its charm. Plant it alongside yellow-foliaged shrubs or golden grasses for a rich border display.

3. Paperbark Maple

(Image credit: Bailey Cooper Photography / Alamy)

For structural elegance that combines dazzling fall foliage with year-round visual interest, the paperbark maple (Acer griseum) is well worth a spot. Growing slowly into a small, well-behaved specimen tree or large shrub, reaching 15-20 feet (4.5-6m) tall, its trifoliate leaves turn copper, ruby-red and scarlet in late October. After the leaves drop, its cinnamon-brown bark peels back to reveal polished mahogany wood that glows in winter sun. It may take a few years to develop those distinctive colors, but you can buy Paperbark Maple Container Trees from Amazon.

Hardy in zones 4-8, paperbark maple grows best in full sun to partial shade in well-drained, average-to-rich soil. It is virtually pest- and disease-free, and requires no complicated pruning. Just don't allow newly planted specimens to bake in severely dry, compacted clay without moisture. Underplant with evergreen groundcovers like vinca or dark hellebores to accentuate its cinnamon trunk.

4. Coralberry Magic Berry

(Image credit: Gillian Pullinger / Alamy)

While most fall plants deliver on leaf color, Coralberry Magic Berry (Symphoricarpos) adds a pop of vibrant fruit. Growing into a rounded shrub 3-4 feet (90-120cm) tall and wide, in October its stems are filled with vivid clusters of pink-purple berries. These jewel-like berry clusters remain on the bare branches well into winter, providing valuable food for songbirds. For a softer bubblegum berry tone, buy Proven Winners’ Proud Berry Pink Coralberry from Walmart for exquisite late-season color.

Hardy in zones 4-9, coralberry handles full sun to partial shade and adapts to a wide variety of soil types, including lean or clay soils. Cut back stems lightly in early spring to encourage fresh, fruit-bearing new growth. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds now, which encourage leaf growth at the expense of berries. Interplant with dark purple ninebark (physocarpus) or golden panic grasses for a lush fall tonal contrast.

5. Pineapple Sage

(Image credit: Emreturanphoto / Getty Images)

Don’t forget flowers for autumn joy! For late-season color just as frost approaches, pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) is an unexpected treat. True to its name, rubbing its soft leaves releases an irresistible pineapple fragrance. Rising 3-5 feet (90-150cm) tall, this fast-growing plant erupts in October with tubular scarlet flower spikes. These act as a magnet for hummingbirds and pollinators. You can buy Greenwood Nursery Store’s Pineapple Sage from Amazon as double starter pots.

Hardy as a perennial in zones 8-11 (and grown as a late-season annual or overwintered indoor pot in zones 3-7), pineapple sage loves full sun and well-draining, fertile soil. Plant in a warm, sheltered spot near patios – don't let it sit in waterlogged soil. In colder zones, take softwood cuttings in October or bring potted specimens indoors before freezes. Pair its scarlet blooms with purple salvias or dark sweet potato vine for a fall finale.

6. Arkansas Blue Star

(Image credit: Botany Vision / Alamy)

This unique perennial is native to Arkansas and Oklahoma, but easy to grow anywhere in zones 4-9. Arkansas blue star (Amsonia hubrichtii) is regarded as one of the finest native perennials, thanks to its fall transformation. Through summer, it forms a dense, feathery 3-foot (90cm) mound of needle-like foliage, topped with soft blue spring blooms. But in October, it turns a brilliant, glowing butter-gold and amber-orange, holding its color for over a month. Buy Perennial Farm Marketplace’s Arkansas Blue Star from Amazon as live plants for fine-textured, golden foliage.

Hardy in zones 4-9, Arkansas blue star is long-lived, drought-tolerant, and deer-resistant. It performs best in full sun and well-drained soil, but otherwise this plant is not picky and is easy to grow. Plant in full sun to prevent flopping and don't disturb established clumps unnecessarily. Shear foliage back by one-third after spring flowering to encourage a dense shape. Combine its glowing plumes with purple asters or blue sedums for a classic, high-contrast fall border.

7. Little Bluestem

(Image credit: Botany Vision / Alamy)

You may consider ornamental grass for texture and movement, but certain native grasses are also excellent for dynamic fall tone. Little bluestem is a gorgeous fall prairie grass option. Growing in neat tufts 2-4 feet (60-120cm) tall, its blue-green summer blades transform in October into rich shades of mahogany, coppery-orange, and warm purple, topped with fluffy, silvery seed heads that catch the light. For playful streaks of purple, Plants That Work’s Twilight Zone Little Bluestem Grass from Nature Hills is a gorgeous drought-tolerant native grass.

Hardy in zones 3-9, little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) thrives in full sun and dry, lean soils where other plants struggle. Don't overwater or plant in heavy shade, which causes stems to flop. Otherwise, you can leave the coppery foliage standing in winter to provide food and shelter for songbirds and winter interest. Interplant with goldenrod, coneflowers and amsonia for luxe designer accents.

(Image credit: Actium / Shutterstock)

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

As co-founder of a living-wall company, Tim Suddaby has fielded some unusual orders.

Including requests for a wall of live cherry tomatoes, says Suddaby, who founded Maple Ridge-based Vertical Oxygen with his wife, Nathalie Callede, in 2011.

But not everything grows on a wall. For indoor installations, the company relies on tropical plants, including edible perennials such as Cuban oregano and Vietnamese cilantro.

“People go to the grocery store and say, ‘Oh, I want parsley on my wall.’” But seasonal plants, he explains, eventually die or go dormant, making them unsuitable for permanent installations.

Vertical Oxygen began designing and installing hydroponic living walls in Golden, B.C. Suddaby was building environmentally friendly homes and looking for ways to filter and humidify indoor air using plants. Callede’s horticultural background helped inspire their first experiments with aquaponic living walls, which incorporated edible plants and fish.

After a stint in Calgary, the couple returned to B.C. eight years ago, establishing their business in Maple Ridge.

Unlike modular, off-the-rack alternatives, Vertical Oxygen’s installations are custom-designed.

“Every living wall we build has a custom height and width. There are essentially no limitations on size or shape. We can build curved walls and all kinds of configurations.”

For homeowners, installation is relatively straightforward, Suddaby says. The company typically starts with a photograph of the proposed location.

“The main thing we need is wall space,” he says. “Beyond that, we need electricity and a water line.”

Strong, direct southern sunlight is best avoided, and indoor installations require supplemental lighting to compensate for the Lower Mainland’s short winter days.

Vertical Oxygen’s projects range from private residences to hospitals, retail stores and public buildings. The company recently completed a large living wall at a new RCMP station in Moncton, New Brunswick, and is preparing for its biggest installation yet: a 70-foot-wide wall at an Indigenous healing centre in Winnipeg.

At this year’s Vancouver Fall Home Show , however, the company will be introducing visitors to something relatively new in its product line.

“Most of our work has involved interior living walls, but at the Vancouver Fall Home Show, we’ll have both an interior and an exterior installation on display.”

Exterior living walls can transform fences, concrete surfaces or otherwise unremarkable building exteriors into vertical gardens.

“These are systems that can grow outdoors in the Lower Mainland without any problem,” Suddaby says.

Cost for hydroponic living walls is $205 per square foot “with any rough-in for plumbing or electrical and lights extra,” Suddaby says.

Whether indoors or out, living walls require ongoing maintenance, including fertilization and trimming. Vertical Oxygen offers maintenance contracts, with teams visiting installations every two weeks.

Maintenance is $4-5 per square foot based on biweekly visits and a 100 per cent plant and component replacement for no additional cost.

“If one plant dies, we replace it free of charge,” Suddaby says.

Exterior living walls are typically maintained monthly not biweekly.

The company will also be offering something beyond its living-wall displays at the show: a lesson in the often-overlooked histories of familiar houseplants.

“We want people to think differently about what we casually call houseplants,” Suddaby says.

An educational display will highlight four plant varieties, exploring their origins and traditional uses through QR codes.

Among them is the rubber plant, a member of the ficus family. In parts of India, the roots of certain ficus trees have been trained over generations to form living bridges, some of which remain in use today.

The display was partly inspired by the company’s upcoming Indigenous healing centre project in Winnipeg.

Suddaby hopes visitors will come away with a greater appreciation of plants they might otherwise take for granted.

“That plant that’s been sitting in your office for 23 years might have a fascinating history and an important traditional use that you’ve never considered.”

Visitors will also have a chance to win a six-foot-tall houseplant in a raffle at the company’s booth.

The Vancouver Fall Home Show runs from Oct. 15 to 18 at the Vancouver Convention Centre, West. Find the Main Stage and Cooking Stage schedule, a rundown of features and workshops, plus show hours and tickets at vancouverfallhomeshow.com.

Related

• Vancouver Fall Home Show: Health and wellness take centre stage
• Vancouver Fall Home Show: Sarah Baeumler will touch on everything from linens to lighting

Japanese maples are deservedly popular for their spectacular autumn foliage, but there’s actually a native tree that deserves a place in the fall color spotlight.

Oh sure, it may not have the same name recognition as Japanese maple, but this little beauty certainly knows how to put on a show with its dazzling display of red, burgundy, orange, and yellow leaves each fall.

And, better still, this North American native's good looks aren’t just limited to the season of mist and mellow fruitfulness, either: its fragrant summer flowers make it a favorite with bees and other pollinators, and that strongly patterned bark makes it a standout feature every time winter rolls around, too!

The Native Tree Giving Japanese Maple A Run For Its Money

If you love the idea of a native tree that brings several seasons of interest to your yard (and all while supporting local wildlife, no less), than sourwood might be just the plant you’ve been looking for.

Unlike Japanese maples, which are often grown for their distinctive leaf shapes and elegant branching, sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum) offers a different kind of beauty. Its elongated leaves and naturally graceful branches give it a softer, woodland-inspired appearance that works beautifully in a naturalistic garden.

And the seasonal show doesn't end when summer arrives. In early to midsummer, sourwood produces drooping clusters of fragrant bell-shaped flowers that resemble lily-of-the-valley flowers (giving you yet another reason to buy yourself a sourwood from Nature Hills).

(Image credit: jlwhaley/Getty Images)

Now, its flowers aren't just pretty to look at; they also provide a nectar that is beloved by pollinators and beekeepers alike (no surprises there, considering how famous sourwood honey is). Then, after flowering, this native tree's blooms give way to small seed capsules that can persist into the colder months, providing additional visual and wildlife-friendly interest after the leaves fall.

Before you rush to plant one, though, it's important to note that sourwood naturally grows in woodland habitats in the eastern United States and generally prefers acidic, well-drained soil. In fact, it can struggle in alkaline soil and in ground that stays waterlogged, so be sure to check your soil conditions before bagging one for yourself. (It's easily done with something like Amazon's Rapitest Soil Test Kit for Gardens).

Shop Sourwood Essentials:

Nature Hills Nursery Sourwood Tree

The plant itself.

Dewilde Trading Co Soil Test Kit 140 Tests

Aim for acidic soils with a lower pH of 5.5 to 6.5 (or a netural soil).

Fiskars Fiskars 28” Garden Bypass Loppers, Tree Trimmer With 1.5" Cut Capacity

Be sure to prune only when dormant (and only to remove damaged branches).

Don't dismiss Japanese maple entirely, of course; it remains a wonderful choice for ornamental gardens, especially if you want finely divided foliage, a sculptural silhouette, or a compact specimen for a carefully designed landscape. If you want a tree that offers more than a single season of interest, though? Well, then sourwood is well worth considering.

This native tree's glossy summer foliage, fragrant white flowers, spectacular autumn colors, and attractive winter structure give it plenty to offer throughout the year, especially if you want to support pollinators without sacrificing ornamental impact.

Plant it for the fall foliage, then, and let the bees benefit along the way. And maybe pick up a jar of local sourwood honey, knowing your garden probably helped make it taste all the sweeter.

Kansas City Chiefs quarterback Patrick Mahomes and his wife, Brittany, have a fall entrance that’s just perfect inspiration for the season. Brittany, a former soccer player and co-owner of the Kansas City Current, shared a series of charming family snaps of their Halloween display on Instagram (see below). It suits the season without going over the top, looking like an extension of the landscape rather than decorations thrown together at the last minute.

Chrysanthemums, pumpkins, and integrated lighting make the entryway feel warm and inviting – exactly what you want if you’re welcoming trick-or-treaters or simply hoping to boost curb appeal in the fall.

The secret is to build on the garden you already have. Add the right plants, complementary colors, and strategically placed lighting for an autumn display that lasts until the frosts set in. Here are my five simple steps to help you recreate the look.

A post shared by Brittany Mahomes (@brittanylynne)

A photo posted by

1. Choose Mums That Last

(Image credit: Olha Solodenko / Alamy)

Mums – or chrysanthemums – are really the star of Brittany and Patrick Mahomes’ entryway, and they’re a classic choice for autumn containers. However, believe it or not, you can actually choose the wrong ones. You’ll want to choose hardy ones that last much longer and are suited to your climate rather than florist varieties intended for short-term indoor displays.

Choose plants with plenty of unopened buds for a longer succession of flowers than ones that are already in full bloom. Choose two or three complementary shades, like bronze, burgundy, cream, and golden yellow, and repeat these throughout your entryway.

Timing matters, too. Wait until nighttime temperatures begin to cool before adding chrysanthemums, and let pumpkins and gourds form the foundation of the display first.

Get the Look

The Plants

The Three Company Hardy Chrysanthemums in Assorted Colors – Pack of 4

The Planters

Bokon Terracotta Pumpkin Planters – Pack of 3

The Decor

Hyde and EEK! Boutique Classic Lit Fall and Halloween Pumpkin Jack O' Lantern

2. Use Plants That Transition Into Autumn

(Image credit: Alamy)

Rather than spending a lot of money on replacing all the planting you did in summer, look for porch plants that add interest throughout the whole year. Ornamental grasses, heucheras, and sedums add some texture and color, even as summer flowers are fading, while shrubs and small trees with fall foliage can give the entrance a more established look.

Keep some of your existing summer plants if they still look healthy. A summer perennial can bloom early and then leave behind attractive foliage or seed heads that carry the garden into autumn.

Additionally, a trailing plant spilling over a container or a few late-flowering perennials can help bridge that between-season gap.

3. Use Pumpkins as Part of the Landscape

(Image credit: peterspiro / Getty Images)

Pumpkins and gourds can look just as at home in a garden border as they do on a porch. The trick is to treat (did you like that pun?) them as part of the planting design rather than scattering them randomly around the entrance.

Interior designer Preeti Shah, founder of Spotlight Style, recommends grouping pumpkins in odd numbers at different heights, anchored by one or two large containers. Place larger pumpkins toward the back or at the base of a display, then use smaller varieties to lead the eye toward the front door. “The difference between planned and decorated is restraint,” Shah says. “Pick two or three colors from your house, repeat them, and use natural materials.”

Look for colors already found in your brickwork, front door, or foliage to really help the display feel like part of your landscape.

4. Make Landscape Lighting Part of the Design

(Image credit: Mike Jarman/Alamy Stock Images)

Lighting can bring out the texture of ornamental grasses, highlight colorful chrysanthemums, and create a welcoming glow after dark. Rather than illuminating every part of the entrance equally, focus on a few key plants or architectural features.

Jarald Patterson of Christmas Light Supplier recommends aiming low uplights or small spotlights into the planting, rather than making the path edge the main attraction. He also suggests choosing warm-white lighting around 2,700K to complement autumn shades.

“Pools of light with dark gaps between them look intentional; even, bright coverage looks like a parking lot,” Patterson says. Where practical, hide fixtures behind containers or within planting beds, and ensure cables are safely installed and rated for outdoor use.

5. Build the Display in Stages

(Image credit: Olga Rolenko/Getty Images)

The most convincing autumn entrances develop gradually; it’s all in the phases. Begin with existing plants and containers in late summer, introduce pumpkins as autumn approaches, and add chrysanthemums when temperatures cool. Ornamental grasses, seed heads, and evergreen foliage can help maintain the structure as flowers start to die.

As Shah advises, “Add a few pieces each week, and the entrance keeps changing all season without a big redo.” That’s a relief for those of us who don’t have time for a big, sweeping redo of the entryway for every holiday and season.

By working with the garden instead of starting from scratch, you can create an autumn entrance that feels cohesive, seasonal, and inviting long after Halloween has passed.

Giving a clematis the right care in fall makes a real difference to how well the vine will perform next year, so gift this hard-working plant an hour of your time now for big rewards. We gardeners love the vast range of clematis varieties, some with huge blossoms and others with a froth of tiny flowers, with glossy green foliage providing the perfect foil for the generous blossoms. And as October rolls in, it’s time to tend to this favorite plant and get clematis ready for winter to ensure a great repeat show.

Clematis care in October is neither difficult nor time consuming, but it’s well worth your time. Give your vine a tidy-up, tie in new growth, water and mulch the soil and look out for powdery mildew which saps a plant's strength, and your clematis will be prepped to sail through whatever the winter weather throws at it.

There are clematis varieties to suit every spot, and plenty of vines that grow quickly without scrambling our of control to cloak bare fences and cover awkward structures in the landscape. And giving these useful garden plants the right care now will mean a healthier vine that'll survive winter well and produce plenty of flowers next year.

1. Lightly Prune for Health

(Image credit: Getty Images)

While no clematis should be heavily pruned in fall, it’s never a bad idea to do the 3-Ds trim, cutting back dead, diseased or damaged stems. If this fast-growing vine is swamping another plant or reaching into places it shouldn't, don't be afraid to remove unwanted stems now either.

Don't just jump in with the pruners though, as how much you snip off depends on which clematis group the plant belongs to. While pruning a clematis in October should always be limited, whatever type you're growing, it’s really useful to know which group it belongs to so you don't risk cutting off too many of next year’s flowers.

How to Identify Your Clematis Type

There are three types of clematis: some bloom on old wood in spring, others flower on both old and new wood, and a third group blooms on new wood in autumn. Don’t let this confuse you. Clematis are a little like hydrangea: you simply need to know which group yours belongs to, so you can prune it at the right time, confident that you’re not snipping off next year’s flowers.

• If your clematis was termed ‘early flowering’ or blooms March to May, it falls into Group 1. These vines bloom on the previous year’s growth (old wood) so should not be heavily pruned in fall, since every branch you snip reduces the number of flowers you’ll see in spring. Common Group 1 clematis include montana and armandii, and any major tidy-up pruning should be done when they finish blooming in late spring or early summer.
• If your vine flowers May to June, with perhaps a second flush of flowers later in the summer, it’s a Group 2 clematis, and popular varieties include ‘Nelly Moser’ and ‘Josephine’. These flower on both old wood and new wood (the current season’s growth) so any pruning now will reduce the first flush of flowers. The important times to prune a Group 2 clematis are a light tidy in late winter, then again after the first flush of flowers to encourage a bigger second flush.
• If your clematis blooms mid-summer through fall – and it’s likely still flowering now in October – it belongs to Group 3. Favorite late-flowering clematis that bring abundant blooms in fall include jackmanii and tangutica. These bloom on new wood so are safe to lightly prune in fall. However, save the main structural prune till February or March, when you cut all the stems down to 8-12 inches from the ground.

Now you know which group your clematis belongs to, you can decide just how limited this health-giving tidy-up prune should be.

If you have sweet autumn clematis, once its lush froth of tiny white flowers is finished, consider deadheading the plant if you are worried about self-seeding. Beautiful as its seedheads are, this vine self-seeds aggressively.

(Image credit: Getty Images)2. Tie Loose Stems to Their Support

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Tying new growth to its support is an esssential task to get clematis ready for winter. Clematis may be the optimal flowering vine, but these plants gets heavier every year so it's vital to give plants the right support. It's also important to check the ties already attaching older stems to the trellis are in good order before fall and winter storms arrive, and secure loose vines so they’re not snapped by high winds. This is about much more than aesthetics because a snapped stem invites fungal spores to settle in for the winter.

Velcro Garden Ties, available from Amazon, work well for clematis vine as the cut-to-length hook and loop tape holds firm but is quick and easy to adjust, and is endlessly reusable.

3. Deal Quickly with Powdery Mildew

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltc)

Powdery Mildew is a common issue for clematis in fall and while a late-season outbreak is rarely fatal, it can significantly sap the strength of the plant. It’s easy to deal with powdery mildew if you spot a dusty white coating on leaves by removing and disposing of the affected foliage. Make sure you disinfect your pruners with isopropyl alcohol, available from Amazon, so you don’t inadvertently spread this disease.

A garden waste bag with a top closure such as this Collapsible Garden Waste Bag from Walmart makes it easy to safely transport infected leaves to the trash can or tip – because you don’t want to add these fungal spores to your compost heap. A small rake like Fiskar’s Xact Hand Rake, available from Lowe’s, helps you get rid of infected plant material that’s fallen to the ground.

4. Water Before the Ground Freezes

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Plants need water even in winter but once the ground freezes, there really is no way to get water to the plant roots. So, add ‘water deeply’ to your list of gardening jobs to do in October and if fall rainfall is very sparse, deep-soak the roots once a week until the first freeze.

5. Mulch the Root Zone

(Image credit: Alamy)

Clematis plants are tough vines but their roots are surprisingly fragile, growing out in a shallow network rather than diving deep into the ground. Protect them from winter’s worst by layering a 2-3-inch-thick layer of mulch such as Back to the Roots Premium Mulch, available from The Home Depot, over the soil at the base of the plant. Clematis roots extend to around 2-3 feet wide, so be generous with the mulched area, but be careful not to pile material against the stems which will cause them to rot.

What Zone Do You Garden in?

Depending on your USDA zone, there are a couple of extra tasks to put on your October to-do list.

If You Garden in a Warmer Zone

All clematis species are vulnerable to clematis wilt, a fungal disease that can kill the vine. While it’s more of a problem in late spring and early summer, if you live in a zone with warm, humid days and cooler nights, clematis wilt can flare up in fall. Look for dry and withered leaves – some may even blacken – that doesn’t look like seasonal dieback. All this foliage should be trimmed out with pruners that are disinfected with isopropyl alcohol, available from Amazon, and thrown out. Get all of the diseased material, and your vine should be okay in spring.

If You Garden in a Cooler Zone

In colder regions (USDA zones 3-5), prepare your clematis well for harsh winter freezes. Wait until after your first hard frost before mulching, as without this cozy fall duvet, the plant will naturally prepare better for winter cold. Then apply a deeper 3-4-inch-thick mulch to protect roots. Mulching will also reduce the soil’s freeze-thaw cycle which can heave a clematis’ shallow root system out of the ground in cooler zones.

Pay extra attention to ensuring this season’s growth is tied in to a trellis or support, as heavy snow and ice loads are likely to collect on the dense tangle of stems.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Do these fall clematis care tasks and your plant will go into the winter strong and healthy, full of sensational seedheads and ready for another great season next year. One task you should definitely leave off your fall to-do list, however, is fertilizing your clematis. This vine is fast-growing and tough so doesn’t routinely need fertilizing to begin with, and certainly doesn’t need feeding in October with winter fast approaching. Instead, the plant needs to slow down its growth and harden off naturally before harsh weather arrives.

Every method of plant propagation has its bit of magic. It’s amazing to see a little green shoot emerging from a tiny seed or to watch roots appearing on the lower end of cuttings. But division has a huge advantage that seeds and cuttings lack: you start with one perennial, then, presto chango, you have two, or three, or four.

Dividing plants is a simple, highly effective method used to propagate perennials. It doesn’t require any technical or botanical knowledge. All you need to do is lift a mature perennial from the ground, then divide its root system into two or more distinct sections to be replanted.

But timing is important when it comes to division. Never try this in the heat of the summer, nor in the heart of the winter. Along with early spring, October is one of the very best times to propagate your perennials by division, as the soil is still workable. You want to dig the plant up, divide it into several rooted sections, and get the roots of the sections established before the first frost.

How to Divide Plants Successfully in October

It’s a good idea to get an overview of the division process before trying it on a perennial. The first rule to remember is that you can’t divide annual plants – only perennial plants have the established root structure that allows for this type of propagation.

Use a sharp spade or garden fork to dig a circle around the perennial before prying out the rootball. Then you might use two garden forks to divide the roots, although I personally find it easier to do by hand. Finally, do the actual division with something sharp, like a garden knife, a pruning saw, or a spade. Alternatively, a Root Slayer Perennial Garden Shovel, available on Amazon, is a multipurpose tool that lets you cut neatly around the plant, ease it out, and slice it into divisions.

Can you pause once the plant is out and divided? Nope, no rest for you at this stage. Immediately replant each division, and do so at exactly the same depth at which it was previously growing. Use your fingers to press down the soil and eliminate air pockets, then water thoroughly. If you're potting up divisions before planting them elsewhere, use a high-quality potting mix, such as Miracle-Gro Potting Mix from Walmart, to help the roots establish quickly before winter.

The newly created divisions will need adequate water until they establish. Water the soil around the plant several days before dividing, then deep water the sections immediately after they are in the ground. Keep the soil consistently moist for several weeks to allow the roots to re-establish.

Now, let's dive into the best plants to divide in October.

1. Hostas

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Hostas are shade garden favorites, but they can grow larger than you might expect. One great way to control plant size is division. Not only can you cut back the size of the clumps, but you get new ones as well.

If you decide to divide hostas in the fall, do it in October. Using a sharp spade or shovel, dig out the entire plant and place it carefully on the ground. Separate tuber clumps.

2. Sedum

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Sedums, also known as stonecrops, are clump-forming succulents that are easy to divide. You can divide sedum plants in autumn, right after they finish blooming. Use a garden spade or fork to dig out the plant with its entire root mass, then clip back the tallest stems to several inches. This makes them easier to handle. Chop the clump into smaller sections, each one with healthy green stems on top and a root cluster on the bottom. Plant each division in a sunny location at the same depth it was growing previously. Firm the soil and water thoroughly.

3. Peonies

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If your peonies are overgrown, divide them in the fall. They are somewhat picky about division, so be sure to walk through all the steps.

First, cut back your peony stems, then dig out the plant, including the thick roots. Set the plant on the ground, then hose down the root ball. This is important because you need to see the peony's “eyes”, which look like pink buds at the crown, and make sure each division has at least three eyes and strong roots. Replant the divisions immediately, placing the eyes no more than 2 inches (5 cm) below the surface of the soil.

4. Bearded Iris

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bearded irises are among the easiest perennials to divide. All you need to do is dig up the clump, prune down the foliage to about 6 inches (15 cm) long, then chop up the clump into smaller divisions. Afterward, let the plant dry for a full day, then replant the divisions. The top of the rhizomes should end up just at the level of the soil surface.

5. Astilbes

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Divide established astilbe plants every few years. Just dig them up, trim back the foliage, and divide them with a sharp shovel or spade. If the plant is too big to dig up, just cut out sections from the standing plant. Replant astilbe segments in a new site, watering generously.

6. Bee Balm

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Divide bee balm in fall after flowering ceases but before the first frost. Use a spade to dig around the clump, leaving plenty of room to make sure you don’t dig through the root system. Dig up the clump, lift it up, and shake out extra soil. Toss the center of the clump – it will be woody, hollow, or dead, and it won’t flower well again. Divide the plant with hand pruners, making sure each section has three shoots or growing buds. Replant bee balm plants at the exact same depth as they were planted before, tamping down the soil. Water well.

7. Bleeding Heart

(Image credit: Katie Feliciano / Shutterstock)

Divide bleeding heart plants in October, after the plant’s foliage has naturally died back. Dig out the root clump, then use a sharp knife to divide it into sections, each one with at least one growth bud. Replant immediately and water well.

8. Phlox

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Divide phlox at least four weeks before the first hard frost. October is generally a perfect time to do the deed. First, cut back the foliage. Then, use a sharp spade to dig up the entire phlox plant and chop the root clump into sections. Each section should have at least three shoots and some sturdy roots. Replant immediately and water generously.

How to Care for New Divisions Before Winter

The watering you give your divisions after replanting is very important. Be sure to water each one well, then water regularly to keep the soil moist.

Mulch the area around each division to help protect the new plants from winter chills. Apply a 2–3 inch (5–8 cm) layer of organic mulch, such as straw or pine bark, like these Timberline pine bark nuggets from Walmart, to insulate the soil and protect the roots from temperature fluctuations. Keep the mulch clear of the plant's crown to prevent rot.

Plant Dividing Essentials

Divide

Root Slayer 22011 Garden Shovel

Plant

Miracle-Gro Potting Mix

Protect

Oldcastle Lawn & Garden Timberline Pine Decorative Bark Mulch Nuggets – Pack of 2

If you’ve been growing productive pepper plants outdoors this summer, fall usually signals a sad goodbye. Because peppers are tropical perennials that cannot tolerate frost, autumn’s temperature drops generally mean it’s time to let them go. They aren’t hardy in most growing climates, so they tend to succumb soon after the first frost. However, there is a brilliant, creative indoor alternative: turning your favorite summer chili into a bonchi: a miniature bonsai chili tree.

This style of growing chilil peppers is about more than just overwintering. Bonchi (short for bonchili, aka bonsai chili) culture transforms your productive outdoor plants into stunning, living indoor sculptures that sit comfortably on a sunny windowsill. By hard-pruning the top growth and trimming the root mass to fit a shallow bonsai pot, you reduce the size to create a mini tree form.

So, not only does this fun project save your hard-earned plants from freezing weather, but it also gives you a fascinating head start for next year. Come spring, it's possible for your established bonchi to be kept as a productive, fruit-bearing indoor houseplant for years to come. This step by step guide shows you how to create your own pretty miniature chili tree. So grab your pruning snips, clear a spot on the windowsill, and let’s turn this season’s harvest into a lasting masterpiece.

1. Choose the Best Pepper

While all peppers (Capsicum spp.) are tender perennials, certain varieties adapt much better to bonsai cultivation. Capsicum chinense species (such as habanero, Scotch bonnet and ghost peppers) and Capsicum frutescens (like tabasco) naturally develop thick, gnarled, woody main stems early in their growth cycles, giving them an instant ancient tree aesthetic. Compact Capsicum annuum varieties like jalapeño and cayenne, plus ornamental varieties like 'Black Pearl' or 'Numex Twilight' are also stellar candidates thanks to their small leaves and abundant, colorful pods.

(Image credit: Bildagentur Online Contributor / Getty Images)

When selecting a candidate, look for a plant that has demonstrated outstanding vigor and heavy fruit production throughout summer. Choose a specimen with a thick main stem (at least thumb-width) near the soil line and balanced lower branching. Avoid weak, leggy plants or those showing signs of viral infections, such as mottled leaves or stunted stems. Healthy roots are important, too.

Remember, smaller-fruited varieties look much more proportionate on a miniature tree than massive bell peppers, creating a far more harmonious visual balance once your bonchi starts setting fruit indoors. It’s also worth grabbing a soil meter, such as the Raintrip Soil 4-in-1 Meter from Amazon, to give the soil a quick read as you assess the healthiest candidates.

2. Prep and Lift Before First Frost

(Image credit: Guido Mieth / Getty Images)

Timing is everything when transitioning outdoor peppers indoors. You must lift your chosen plant before the first hard frost, and ideally before night temperatures consistently dip below 50°F (10°C). Chilly winds slow down the plant’s metabolism, making root recovery much harder once brought inside. Water your pepper plant deeply 24 hours before digging. Damp soil clings to the root ball, reducing transplant shock and making extraction easier. Just make sure it is damp, not soggy.

Cut a wide circle roughly 6-8 inches (15-20cm) away from the main stem, slicing down deep to free the root ball. Lift the plant gently, shaking away excess soil to expose the roots. Before taking your plant inside, conduct a strict pest inspection. Outdoor peppers frequently harbor aphids, whiteflies, or spider mites under leaves. To help with pest inspection, grab a magnifying glass or loupe such as the Carson LumiLoupe 10x Stand Magnifier, available from Walmart. This handy pocket magnifier lets you inspect leaf undersides for tiny aphid eggs or spider mites before bringing plants inside (and they are really good value to have around the house).

Rinse the plant with a gentle spray, or apply a mild insecticidal soap drench to prevent unwelcome hitchhikers from invading your indoor setup.

3. Trim Stems and Roots

(Image credit: JulieAlexK / Getty Images)

Now comes the bit that might scare you if you are a beginner grower, but it is important: severe pruning. Don’t panic, peppers are resilient, and aggressive pruning is essential to force the plant into its compact bonsai habit. For this, you need the sharpest snips or scissors you can find. One team favorite is a set of Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips,available from Amazon. Alternatively, dedicated bonsai shears such as Garden Guru Professional Butterfly Bonsai Shears, available from Walmart, give precise cuts without harming the plant.

You need to cut the main trunk back to a height of just 4-8 inches (10-20 cm) above the soil line. Strip off all remaining large leaves and thin out weak or crossing side branches, leaving just 2-3 short, structural branch stubs to serve as your new tree framework. You’ll need to leave a few side stems in place to become branches.

Next, turn your attention to the roots. You’ll need to be able to see the taproot and side feeder roots. Trim the root ball down. reducing the volume by around 60-70 percent. Prune away thick taproots and long, straggly roots, preserving a compact, dense pad of fine feeder roots close to the base. This might seem drastic, but it balances the root volume with reduced top growth, preparing the plant for effective bonsai container gardening and allowing the plant to easily fit into a shallow dish.

4. Pot Your Bonchi

(Image credit: Westend61 GmbH / Alamy)

Selecting the right container can transform your pruned pepper into living art. Traditional bonsai containers are shallow, ceramic dishes featuring generous drainage holes. Choose a pot that can comfortably house your trimmed root mass with an inch of clearance around the sides. Ensure the container has adequate drainage, as standing water will rot pruned roots rapidly. Position the plant so the primary root flares sit slightly above the soil line, exposing the top of the root system to give your mini tree an established, aged appearance.

Soil choice is vital for long-term health. Avoid dense potting mixes, which retain too much water in shallow pots. Instead, use a free-draining bonsai mix, or mix 60% high-quality potting soil with 40% perlite or horticultural sand. If you need perlite, lightweight Legigo Organic Perlite from Amazon is an excellent choice, helping to prevent compaction in shallow bonsai potting mixes. Pack the substrate firmly around the roots, using a chopstick to eliminate hidden air pockets. Water thoroughly until water streams freely from the drainage holes.

5. Bonchi Care

(Image credit: Dmitry Marchenko / Alamy)

After the shock of severe pruning and repotting, your new bonchi needs a bit of time to rest and recuperate. Place in a warm, sheltered spot, away from direct, scorching sunlight and leave for one week to recover. Once new green buds begin pushing out along the trunk, move to your sunniest south-facing windowsill, where it can receive at least 6 hours of bright light daily. If winter light is weak in your region, supplement with a grow light.

Watering requires a careful touch during dormancy. Allow the top inch (2.5cm) of soil to dry out between waterings, as overwatering cold roots is the fastest way to cause root rot. Skip heavy feeds for the first month. Once active leaf growth is established, you can feed bi-weekly with a gentle seaweed drench diluted to half-strength. I recommend TPS Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon, to encourage healthy root recovery. As fresh shoots expand, lightly pinch back overly long stems to encourage dense branching and maintain a mini tree silhouette.

6. Pollinate for Peppers

(Image credit: José María Barres Manuel / Alamy)

One of the most rewarding moments of bonchi cultivation is watching delicate white or purple flowers blossom during the depths of winter. However, because your living room lacks natural outdoor pollinators, like bumblebees and wind breezes, you’ll need to step in as chief pollinator to help set fruit. Fortunately, pepper flowers are self-fertile, meaning each bloom contains both male and female reproductive parts.

Once flowers open fully, gently tap the trunk or flick the flower stems with your finger to release pollen. For higher success rates, use a small, soft watercolor paintbrush to gently swirl inside each flower, transferring pollen from the outer anthers to the sticky stigma. You can pick up Royal & Langnickel Taklon Art Brushes from Walmart for just a few dollars. These fine-tipped brushes are ideal for delicate pollination. Within a week, the petals will drop away, revealing tiny green pepper pods. You can then enjoy seeing fresh peppers ripening indoors while snow falls outside your window.

(Image credit: Shotshop GmbH / Alamy)

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

One of the best things about The Celebrity Traitors right now? Jerry Hall, who is proving to be almost as delightfully kooky as her neighbor, Richard E. Grant.

Between the unexpected personalities and the wonderfully eccentric energy, many of us have found ourselves wanting to know more about the supermodel beyond the castle walls. Naturally, that led us down a little Instagram rabbit hole, and straight into her rather spectacular garden.

Now, I have to admit, I’m a little jealous of Jerry’s garden. Not only does the supermodel and actress have an enviable collection of plants, but she appears to have landed on one of the most effective garden color planting palettes without making it look overly designed: purple, purple, and a little more purple.

Jerry Hall's All-Purple Garden

That's right; Jerry Hall’s garden, which features wisteria and lilacs among its purple blooms, is a lovely example of what happens when you commit to one color family rather than trying to squeeze every shade of the rainbow into a border.

And while purple might seem like a purely aesthetic choice, there’s actually some very good garden-design thinking behind it. Before we get into that, though, check it out for yourself:

A post shared by Jerry Hall (@jerryfayehall)

A photo posted by

If you’re looking at Jerry Hall’s garden and wondering why all that purple flowers work so well, take a closer look at what’s surrounding them: green.

Now, green and purple are a favorite combination among professional gardeners, and it’s easy to see why; the contrast is strong enough to give a planting scheme some definition, but it isn’t so dramatic that it becomes overwhelming. Purple also has a slightly receding quality in the landscape, which can help garden beds feel deeper and more spacious.

That makes purple flowers particularly useful when you want a garden to feel abundant and interesting without looking chaotic. Rather than competing with every other color, a purple-and-green scheme gives the eye a clear thread to follow. And there’s another benefit: purple flowers can be particularly attractive to bees and butterflies, making them a valuable food for pollinators.

Shop Purple Plants:

CATMINT

EKT Nursery Purrsian Blue Catmint

Catmint blooms forever, looks beautiful, and doesn't go woody!

SALVIA

WAROON Purple Salvia Plant

Another fragrant perennial, salvia is an absolute pollinator magnet.

ROSEMARY

TANKDA Rosemary Live Plant

A classic upright rosemary boasts a fabulous scent and purple hue.

Tempted to try it for yourself? Of course you are, and I have good news for you on that front: you don’t need acres of garden – or a supermodel’s landscaping budget – to borrow the idea. Because... well, because you don't have to go full Jerry Hall

The easiest way to try the look at home is to think of purple as a thread running through your planting rather than a rule you have to follow religiously. Lavender (like this Grosso Lavender from Nature Hills) is an obvious starting point, while salvias, catmint, alliums, geraniums, pansies, purple-leaved heucheras, hellebores, and aquilegias can all bring different versions of the shade into a border.

Soft pinks can make the scheme feel romantic, blues can deepen the cool tones, and even brighter shades can work when they're anchored by plenty of green. All of which means that, no, you don't need to turn your entire garden into a purple paradise.

But after seeing Jerry Hall's? Well, I can certainly understand why you might want to.