Organic Gardening News

Sun loving, drought tolerant and cold hardy: hydrangeas have spiked in popularity, especially with so many new and remarkable varieties now available. There are so many, even the professionals are having trouble keeping up.

I think one of the nicest features of H. paniculata grandiflora, or PeeGee, hydrangeas, is that most change colour from a creamy white to beautiful shades of pink or red as the blossoms mature. Some, like H. p. Limelight, start out as a beautiful green shade and then age to cream with varying pink tones.

The H. paniculatas variety also vary in height and breadth, which is an important issue with so many smaller gardens. The standard, or tree form, is another great feature, especially in cramped spaces when a two- to three-metre tree can make a great focal point and also act as a screen.

By far one of the most popular low growing varieties is a Proven Winners introduction called H. p. Bobo. Growing less than one metre tall and about two metres wide, it is one of the earliest to bloom with beautiful white panicles that mature into a pleasing pink.

A close competitor, H. p. Dragon Baby, was introduced by Van Belle Nursery in Abbotsford. It opens with slightly smaller triangular blooms with a touch of green, which quickly turn white and finally finishes as a rich pink. I find it always looks perky and stays very low in the two-to-three-foot range.

Another Van Belle introduction, H.p. Bubble Bath, is gaining attention heads because of its low-mounding form. It also opens lime green, and its huge blossoms age to rosy pink. It’s also a shorty, only getting up to one metre tall and wide.

One of the newest developments by Van Belle is H. p. Hot Sauce, which has more distinct triangular panicles that open a creamy white and then turn pink and red. It’s another very compact variety, growing to less than one metre tall, and it keeps blooming well into autumn.

Last of the shorties is another Proven Winner H.p. Fire Light Tidbit. Similar to H.p. Bobo, with a mounding habit, it also starts out as bright lime, transitioning to white and then quickly turning to a dragon-fruit neon pink. Another feature is its beautiful fiery, orange-red fall foliage.

The popular lime family is always expanding and improving. H.p. Limelight was the original strong-stemmed lime hydrangea, growing up to two metres tall and wide. It is very impressive, but as the blossoms age the green can change into pink and ultimately burgundy in the fall. A shorter, more compact form is called H.p. Little Lime is about half the size of the original with the same colours.

H.p. Little Lime Punch is very similar to Little Lime in size, but the difference comes as the flowers begin to age. Green turns to a festive blend of pink, green, white, and Hawaiian Punch red. It is not only vibrant but very uplifting. In addition to all these varieties, Proven Winners recently introduced H. p. Limelight Prime. It is a very strong plant with darker green foliage and grows to about two metres tall and wide. This new variety holds its lime colour weeks before transforming into a nice bubble gum pink, like their famous petunia. It is the ultimate Limelight icon.

There are also a number of mid-sized varieties available and Van Belle has introduced some very good ones. H.p. Candelabra has significantly larger, creamy triangular panicles that slowly age out to pink and finally turn red for autumn. Growing just over one metre tall, it has a beautiful upright form.

Another nice mid-sized variety with a strong upright form is H.p. Bouncy which features more pointed triangular panicles that hold their nice lime/white colour before turning pink in late summer going into fall.

H.p. Moonrock, which is another lime-cream combination in the four-to-six-foot range sports good sized flowers that hold their colour well into autumn. It is a distinctly beautiful variety.

H.p. Torch is a more open-flowering variety with creamy flowers eventually colouring up to pink and red in late spring and hanging in all summer into fall.

A significant change from the usual mid-sized varieties, H.p. Puffer Fish is really unique: the huge flowers are fluffy white and often obscure the plants’ foliage. Unlike other varieties, the creamy white flowers turn and hold a pure white colour. It is a first-class performer.

H.p. PowerBall has a very unique inflorescent panicle, more reminiscent of the macrophylla hydrangeas. Growing up to six feet tall and wide its super-round blooms open a refreshing green, lighten up a little as they mature, and finally turn a deep rich pink. It can be grown where many mophead hydrangeas can’t grow in hot sun or severe cold. It is very strong and sturdy and deserves a spot in your garden.

H.p. Pinky Winky has been well known for many years, but Proven Winners has introduced H.p. Pinky Winky Prime which has absolutely huge, pointed panicles on a plant that stretches up to nine feet in size. This bicolour variety has enormous, more deeply hued pink blooms which turn a very hot pink as they age with the colour moving up from the bottom to the top of the flower heads.

Proven Winners’ H.p. Quick Fire Fab is one of the more striking tall varieties. Growing to almost two metres wide, it has football sized flowers opening a coconut white and quickly turning a beautiful watermelon red. The pink darkens from the base of the flowers to the tip here as well. What’s interesting is that the tips stay lime green in contrast to the emerging hot pink. It’s an eye-popping plant and one that warrants a home in a larger garden space. The Quick Fire family is also one of the earliest to bloom.

The demand for all of these hydrangeas has truly surprised many growers this year as some varieties sold out early. Their long-lasting beauty, tolerance to both heat and drought, especially this summer, has truly increased their value as more climate-appropriate plants. That only enhances the value of their long blooming habits and many stunning colour changes.

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Sir David and Lady Beckham have a lot going for them, and it turns out an enviable garden with a greenhouse straight out of every gardener’s wildest dreams is one of those things.

Their Victorian-style greenhouse is stunning, and the growing space inside is immaculate, complete with raised beds, perfectly stacked staging, and rows of vegetables so perfectly placed they look fake. It’s seriously inspiring a whole generation of gardeners to wonder whether they too could pull this off, even with a garden in rural Kansas. I asked a few experts, and the answer is a resounding “Yes!” with some planning.

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Adding a greenhouse to your garden can sound extremely complicated, but once you actually have one, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. Andy Connolly, owner of Little Flower Cottage, puts it simply: "A greenhouse gives you a few extra weeks at both ends of the season and will keep the worst of the rain off any tender crops. That means the likes of tomatoes, chilies, and cucumbers all ripen properly instead of doing very little when outside in a cool August."

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Getting the Design Right

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The Beckhams' elegant black Victorian-style greenhouse isn't just practical – it creates a timeless focal point. If you have the budget, premium manufacturers like Hartley Botanic make beautiful Victorian-style greenhouses in the US that capture a very similar look. They are a serious investment, but they're built to last for decades and can become a real feature of the garden.

Don't worry if that's beyond your budget, though. There are now plenty of affordable greenhouse kits with black aluminum frames and traditional styling that deliver a similar feel for a fraction of the price. Paired with neat raised beds, gravel paths, and simple wooden staging, they can recreate much of the Beckhams' polished aesthetic without the luxury price tag.

The greenhouse should feel like part of your garden rather than an afterthought. Choosing a design you'll still love years from now means it's far more likely to become a space you use every day.

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Buy the Greenhouse You'll Eventually Need

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Arguably, the most important advice comes before you’ve even opened your wallet or clicked “add to cart.”

Marta Pawlik, Co-Founder and Director of luxury property management company Laik, whose professional background is in styling spaces, approaches greenhouse design the same way she would a room: "Purchase the greenhouse you'll eventually need, not the greenhouse you need now."

Connolly echoes this: "Almost everyone I know wishes they'd got a bigger size because once you have one you want to grow more in it."

Another tip from Pawlik that nobody else will tell you: "Don't build your greenhouse at the bottom of your garden. You will never go past it, and it will be neglected. Have it within 20 steps of your back door and in sight of your kitchen window."

It sounds obvious in retrospect, but then most good advice does.

Getting the Layout Right

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The Beckhams’ greenhouse earns some major brownie points for its use of raised beds and tiered staging. It looks like it’s simply for the aesthetics, but experts tell me it’s actually for a practical reason. Connolly advises: "Keep the tall crops like tomatoes and cucumbers in the ground-level beds on the side that won't cast shade on everything else. Use staging or tiered shelves for seed trays, herbs and pots, so they are closer to the light. Staging also keeps young plants away from slugs."

Pawlik agrees: "Raised beds heat up sooner than ground-level soil, provide better water drainage, and go easy on your back. Allow a minimum of a 2 feet (60 cm) path between them and keep the ones up against the glazing under 2.5 feet (75 cm) in width."

The Biggest Greenhouse Mistake

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Any experienced gardener will tell you the most common mistake is not ventilating a greenhouse enough. Connolly is emphatic about this: "On a sunny spring day, a closed greenhouse can easily get to over 85°F (30°C), and all your seedlings will be killed. You can buy cheap automatic vent openers which are definitely worth getting and setting up at the start of the season."

Victor Smushkevich, founder of Mold Scanner AI, adds another dimension to the ventilation issue: "The mistake I'd put first is treating a greenhouse like a sealed glass box. Sun heats it, plants release water, and the moisture has nowhere to go. Choose the structure by its vents before you look at glazing or size. You want openings high and low, and on opposite ends, so air moves through instead of sitting."

His practical advice for mold prevention is equally direct: water in the morning so surfaces dry before evening, space plants so leaves aren't packed together, and don't leave trays of standing water on the floor.

What to Grow First

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What should you actually grow in your greenhouse? It’s the question every new greenhouse owner asks, and Connolly’s answer is reassuring and straightforward: "Tomatoes are the obvious one because they're forgiving and what you get is great. Salad leaves, basil and chilies are close behind."

What should you avoid if you’re a beginner? "Melons and eggplants are more trouble than they're worth. They need a lot of heat, and you'll spend most of the summer worrying about them – all you'll get is, at best, a few fruits at the end of it."

Every October, I expect my husband to be outside tackling a huge list of autumn jobs. Instead, he starts with something much less exciting – and apparently much more important.

As I believe I have mentioned at least 1,000 times by this point, my husband is a professional gardener with over 20 years experience under his belt, so I've learned that when he says something needs doing in the garden, I probably shouldn't argue. I may occasionally question his methods, but experience has taught me that there's usually a very good reason behind them.

Still, I used to find it slightly (read: very) strange that one of his first jobs every October isn't raking leaves, cutting back perennials, or giving the garden the sort of dramatic autumn tidy-up that makes everything look instantly neat.

Start October With This One Job

If you're anything like me, the first few leaves on the lawn can trigger a sudden urge to find a rake, but my husband isn't interested in making the garden look completely leaf-free the moment autumn arrives. (He firmly believes that leaf litter can provide shelter for overwintering insects and other wildlife, while gradually breaking down and adding organic matter to the soil).

He doesn't cut everything down, either, as he says some perennials can be left standing through winter, particularly plants with useful seedheads or hollow stems. Those stems can provide shelter for insects, while seedheads can provide food for birds and add some much-needed structure to the winter garden.

The one job he does do, though? He cleans his garden tools, and then he sharpens them.

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It's a job that doesn't come hand-in-hand with a satisfying pile of leaves, or a dramatically shorter hedge. There isn't usually a reason to snap a before-and-after photograph, either. Still, a well-maintained pair of pruners is considerably more useful when you're about to spend the next few months pruning, cutting back and maintaining the garden.

That's why my husband recommends cleaning and disinfecting garden tools in fall before putting them away for winter, and really take the time to make sure the tools you're going to rely on are actually ready for the work ahead.

It doesn't have to be a long and complicated process, either; he starts by removing dirt, dried plant material and sap from the tools, and anything particularly grubby gets a proper wash before the tool is dried thoroughly.

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Then he looks at the blades. Are they dull? Rusty? Damaged? Is anything loose? Do the blades open and close properly?

If anything needs sharpening, he'll do that next (this is not a man who is ready to accept that something might just be getting a little blunt). Finally, he makes sure that metal parts are lightly lubricated to help protect against rust, particularly if any of his tools are going into storage.

Sure, it's not exactly glamorous work, but it's the sort of boring maintenance that means you're less likely to discover a rusty and blunt pair of pruners when you urgently need them.

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I think the biggest lesson I've taken from watching my husband garden for two decades is that, sure, there are leaves to deal with. Yes, there are plants that need cutting back, bulbs to plant, tender plants to protect and plenty of other jobs that depend on your climate and garden.

But do you know what? You really don't have to attack the whole garden at once, because sometimes the smartest first job is simply making sure your tools are clean, sharp and ready for action.

Honestly, once they are, then all those October jobs suddenly become a little easier. And if my husband is right (which, annoyingly, he usually is – although I'll never tell him so), that's a much better place to start than grabbing a rake and trying to make the entire garden look tidy before Halloween.

Sometimes you want exotic, unusual plants that nobody else on the block has in their front yard. But other times, it can be the tried-and-true fall classics that make the most impact to guests and passers-by. When it comes to choosing the best container plants to stand sentry on your porch during this new season, there are a few undisputed fall favorites that will add instant, lasting vibrancy.

Entryway plants are among the most impactful elements in a home's exterior design. They instantly transform the mood for visiting guests, while offering a warm, cheerful welcome to family members returning home at the end of a long day. But when setting up front door containers in fall, it’s important to pick varieties that maintain their rich colors and crisp forms through the cooler winds and dipping temperatures.

Creating a stunning fall doorway display doesn't mean relying on a single pot of flowers. By combining cold-hardy blooms, ornamental grasses, and rich foliage, you can build seasonal displays that are often capable of coping with light frosts. Whether your porch receives plenty of sunshine or morning shade, here are the outstanding container heroes that should go straight to the top of your fall shortlist.

Choosing Front Door Plants for Fall

They say first impressions are critical, and your front door plants serve as the ultimate welcoming committee to anyone approaching your home. Bright, flowering plants instantly wake up the entire entrance, providing vital energy as the sunny skies of summer fade into the more muted shades of autumn. Selecting resilient container plants that thrive as daylight shortens ensures your porch stays vibrant in the coming weeks and straight through to winter.

Tapping into the warm palettes of fall, these cold-hardy container heroes come into their own as fading summer stalwarts lose their strength, fade back, or turn up their toes. Saturated leafy perennials, resilient floral tones, and cascading grasses allows you to create porchways and door entrances soaked in the rich shades of the season, filled with coppers, plums and neon chartreuse. Mix and match and play about with mixed heights and contrasting textures for ultra vivid displays that will have your neighbors doing a double-take.

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Regional conditions play a major role in how your entryway containers perform. Northern gardeners facing early hard frosts should prioritize cold-hardy foliage, while sun-drenched southern porches can keep select fall flowers for pots that bloom well into November. Proper drainage is vital as rainfall increases. Elevate planters off cold concrete using pot feet or pot toes to prevent waterlogged roots. Pot toe classics like Lemon Road Terracotta Pot Feet, available from Amazon, help to improve airflow and maintain healthy roots in these potted plants through fall.

Finally, make sure you use a light, well-draining potting soil for your front door pots. ixing generous handfuls of perlite into a premium potting soil, like Back to the Roots Organic Succulent & Cacti Soil, available from Walmart, will help to prevent root rot in cooler weather. These are all at their best in October, and some of them will bloom right up to the first frost. Some are even cold-hardy enough to survive through winter.

1. Chrysanthemum

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You won’t be the only home on the block featuring mums in your front entryway, but chrysanthemums (C. × morifolium) remain the ultimate fall porch plant for good reason. Their dense, dome-shaped blossoms deliver an unmatched punch of jewel-toned color when summer annuals fade. For perennial stamina, cold-hardy garden mums spread via underground runners and survive harsh winters to return next spring. For dramatic spider or pompom blooms, florist mums give maximum short-term impact. Garden Mum Quart Pots are available from Plant Addicts in a range of lush tones, including sultry Orange Zest and Paradiso Pink.

Position large glazed urns of mums on either side of your doorstep, where they can receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Pair with trailing ivy or silver dichondra as spillers. Deadhead any spent blooms weekly to encourage continuous flowering. Northern growers should move pots against warm walls ahead of early frosts, while southern gardeners must monitor moisture in sunny spots. Never allow container soil to dry out, as thirsty mums will drop unopened buds and collapse.

2. Pansies

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With vibrant colors, a super-long growing season, and often two-toned faces in mixes of red, yellow, orange, white and purple, pansies (Viola × wittrockiana) are essentials for fall containers. Planted in October, these cold-weather champions quickly establish deep roots, offering up to 6 months of continuous color through mild winter stretches and into spring. For something that really sets your porch apart from the rest, try a blue pansy such as Delta Pro True Blue Pansy from Trees.com.

Pansies thrive in full sun to partial shade, so they are ideal for sheltered porches and covered entryways. To maximize visual impact, plant them densely in low, wide terracotta bowl planters or window boxes flanking the doorway. Combine dark purple or rust-orange pansies with ruffled ornamental kale or golden sedum for striking textural contrast. Pinch off faded flower heads weekly to trigger relentless new buds, but don't let containers sit in standing water during heavy rain. There should be a rule that every house needs to install fall pansies to provide cheer to the neighborhood during the drearier months.

3. Asters

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Asters (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium) bring soft, daisy-like texture and dramatic color to fall container arrangements. In mid-to-late fall, they produce dazzling mounds of delicate daisy-style flowers in mounds of purple, pink, lilac and white. Each is centered with a cheerful golden disc that provides an invaluable source of late-season nectar for migrating pollinators. You can buy stunning Aster Woods Purple from Walmart as live plants for quick developing color that lasts all season. In fact, asters are fairly cold hardy, so flowers can last past early frosts into winter.

They can spread via underground stolons when planted in beds, so growing them in containers keeps their vigorous habit perfectly controlled. Place them in a sunny porch spot in large ceramic pots, using them as mid-height fillers alongside tall grasses. Pair purple varieties with orange mums for a high-contrast color scheme that captures the essence of fall. Don’t shear back spent flowers in late fall, as the seed heads can feed visiting songbirds when natural food sources become scarce.

4. Sedum

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A structural favorite among designers, Sedum 'Autumn Joy' (Hylotelephium spectabile 'Autumn Joy') is an outstanding upright succulent that puts on its best show just as the rest of the garden winds down. Enormous, rosy-pink flower clusters atop thick, fleshy stems gradually age into deep rusty-bronze and mahogany tones by late fall. You can buy Autumn Joy from Nature Hills, as well as the lusty purple partner-in-crime, Mr Goodbud Sedum from Plants That Work. Their multi-branched flower heads cannot be ignored and are sure to attract ohs and ahs from visitors.

These ultra-tough perennials are ideal for drought-prone, sunny front entryways that receive harsh winds and hot afternoon light. Plant as a central focus in rustic terracotta or heavy concrete containers. Pair the bold, broccoli-like flower heads with fine-textured Japanese forest grass and trailing ivy for a balanced thriller-filler-spiller These sedums demand exceptional drainage above all else. Avoid heavy peat soils that hold water in cold weather. Water sparingly, allowing soil to dry out between soaks, and don't over-fertilize, which causes stems to grow weak and floppy.

5. Ornamental Kale and Cabbage

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Ornamental kale and cabbage (Brassica oleracea) are cool season annuals that put on a spectacular show in fall. They fill fall containers with easy dynamics, showcasing ruffled rosettes in brilliant shades of magenta, plum, cream, and jade green which actually deepen in color as night temperatures drop below 50F (10C). Capable of surviving hard frosts down to 5F (-15C), they are the ultimate winter-proof choice for drafty front steps and exposed north-facing porches. You can currently buy Purple Ornamental Cabbage Plants from Amazon.

Tuck them into low wooden crate planters or elevated urns as structural focal points. You can pair rich purple kale with golden Japanese forest grass or trailing violas for a high-end designer look. For positioning, ensure containers have wide drainage holes, as soggy soil is their primary weakness in cool weather. Topdress with a light slow-release organic fertilizer when planting, but don't overwater as daylight shortens. These resilient brassicas will hold their crisp, geometric rosettes right through snow snaps and long after traditional patio flowers have faded away.

6. Heuchera (Coral Bells)

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Coral bells (aka heuchera) are the unsung heroes of fall container design, celebrated for their ruffled foliage in breathtaking shades of caramel, fiery copper, deep plum, and chartreuse lime. They provide year-round shaping and can hold their rich foliage color brilliantly even through freezing weather. Use darker foliage varieties like Black Pearl or warm copper types like Caramel as rich visual anchors against yellow mums and purple pansies. You can buy Daylily Nursery's rich purple Berry Smoothie Heuchera Plants from Walmart as 3-inch (8cm) plugs that add instant intense color.

Heuchera plants adapt seamlessly to live as both sunny and shaded containers, making them ideal for covered porches where flowering annuals often struggle. Plant them in medium-sized glazed ceramic pots or mixed window boxes with light, well-draining soil. In cold northern zones, ensure pots are frost-proof terracotta or resin to prevent cracking during freeze-thaw cycles. Don't cut back healthy foliage in autumn – simply groom untidy lower leaves in spring to maintain a tidy mound.

7. Japanese Forest Grass

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Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola') brings effortless movement and graceful cascading texture to front door displays. Its slender, golden-striped ribbon foliage forms weeping mounds that soften the hard edges of container rims, ageing into warm copper and burnt-orange tones by late fall. You can buy Plants That Work All Gold Japanese Forest Grass from Nature Hills. Pair it with deep purple ornamental cabbage or dark coral bells for designer-grade color contrast.

This shade-tolerant perennial grass is ideal for north-facing entryways or covered porches shielded from harsh direct sunlight. Position it as a textural spiller or standalone statement in tall, dark planters where its cascading gold can spill over the sides without touching cold ground. Keep the potting mix consistently damp, as dry soils cause leaf tips to scorch and turn brown. Allow the dried, golden-bronze leaves to remain on the plant through winter for graceful movement and texture in snow.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Your lemon tree is heaving with juicy fruit just as the weather is starting to cool, but take the right steps to look after your lemon tree in October and it'll all still ripen very nicely, thankyou very much! Regular lemon tree care such as full sun and good drainage doesn't change in fall, but you'll need to give your tree some extra TLC if you're to enjoy all those lemons at their plumpest, and it's time to start preparing your tree for winter, too.

Lemons are among the least cold-hardy citrus trees, which means the first cold nights of fall can damage leaves, fruit and new growth, so it's vital to know what to do with lemon trees in fall. But primed and protected from plummeting temperatures, your tree will survive perfectly well through winter, ready to grow another bumper crop next year. And if you're planning on bringing your lemon tree indoors over winter, the right care means you won't move a heap of pests inside with it!

Whatever zone you garden in, and whether you're planning on keeping your lemon tree indoors or outdoors over winter, here's exactly what to do in October.

1. Pick Ripe Lemons

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In October, lemon trees will be holding fruit at several stages from hard green lemons that won't be ready for months to ripe ones that should be picked now.

Color isn't a good way to tell if a lemon is ripe: a lemon can be completely yellow before the juice is ready, and a ripe lemon can still have a little green on it. The only way to know for sure that it's truly ripe is to cut it open and taste it, but there are plenty of indicators to guide you. Ripe lemons will feel heavy for their size as they're full of juice, and will still feel firm but yield slightly to your touch. Scratch the peel lightly with a thumbnail near the stem and a ripe lemon will smell fresh and sweet.

Cut lemons from your tree with hand pruners rather than pulling, as this can tear the skin and fruit with torn skin rots faster. Lemons don't keep ripening after they're picked so a sour lemon is going to stay sour, so leave any that aren't ready on the tree. Follow the other steps to care for lemon trees in fall, and you'll keep lemons ripening a treat.

2. Cut Back on Watering

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Reduce the amount of water you give your tree now, since cool soil stays wet a lot longer than it did in summer. Now fruit is formed, your lemon tree will use up less moisture, too. In rainy areas, you can probably stop irrigating altogether and a long-probe soil moisture meter such as this from Amazon takes out the guesswork.

3. Prune Suckers

While you shouldn't prune a lemon tree in fall as this can cause it to put out tender new growth that'll be vunerable to winter cold, you can get rid of suckers. These are shoots that grow from the rootstock below the graft union (the bulge near the bottom of the trunk) and are often thorny and fast-growing, stealing valuable energy from the tree. Any fruit they make is usually sour and seedy, so prune lemon tree suckers by cutting them off flush with the trunk, using a sharp pair or hand pruners such as these Fiskars pruners from Lowe's.

4. Check for Pests

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Of course, it's always a smart move to keep an eye out for pests but if you're planning to move a lemon tree indoors, it's especially important. Common lemon tree pests that were kept in check outside by rain, wind and predators can quickly take over a lemon tree once it's sheltered indoors.

Look for sticky leaves which are a sign of brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum) and citrus mealybugs (Planococcus citri, above), as are ants crawling up and down the trunk. Scale look like small flat bumps on stems and leaf veins. To check for two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae), tap a branch while holding a sheet of white paper beneath, then watch for specks that start moving.

As you're going to be eating fruit from the tree, use a plant-derived solution such as Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil, available from Amazon. Neem oil is effective against scale, mealybygs and spider mites, but be specific. For scale, scrub with a toothbrush or scrape with a fingernail before spraying. Before spraying for mealybug, dab a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol on the pest clusters first to break through their repellent coating. If you suspect spider mites, use a strong hose jet to rinse off most of the mites, then spray the undersides of the leaves with neem oil.

Repeat once a week to break the pest's lifecycle.

5. Move Potted Trees Inside

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Roots in a pot are a lot more exposed to cold than roots in the ground, so don't wait until frost is forecast before moving your lemon tree indoors. Instead, when nighttime temperatures start dropping to around 40°F (4°C), it's time to take action. A waterproof thermometer that alerts you when a set temperature threshold is breached, like this the nifty GoveeLife Thermo-Hygrometer, available via Amazon, takes any worry away.

Big pots are heavy so use a heavy-duty plant caddy such as the Vigoro Metal Plant Caddy, available from The Home Depot, which holds up to 119 pounds (54kg). Position your lemon tree in a south-facing window where it will get at least six hours of sun a day, well away from heating vents. Don't be alarmed if the tree drops some leaves after it's moved inside as this is a common reaction. Water less than you did outside, and only when the soil is dry about 2 inches (5cm) down.

(Image credit: Getty Images)6. Get Frost Covers Ready for Outdoor Trees

If you're planning on leaving your lemon tree outdoors for the winter, you should have a frost cover ready, well before cold weather shows up in the forecast. One option is to use a heavy-duty cover like this DeWitt Ultimate Plant Winter Blanket from Walmart that you can cut to size. Push a few stakes around the tree so the blanket doesn't touch the leaves, and let the cover hang all the way to the ground so it traps heat coming up from the soil.

Another option if you're growing a tree in a pot is to cut a regular frost blanket like this Cover Protection, also from Walmart to size and leave permanently wrapped around the pot to protect the roots, then pop a plant protection bag on the tree itself when cold weather is forecast. Breathable plant protection bags such as these Frost Jackets from Walmart have a zipper and drawstring that means they're simple to slip on and off when needed.

Don't use plastic, because leaves that touch it are more likely to freeze, and take the blanket off the next morning once the air warms up. Before a forecasted freeze, water the soil and pick any ripe lemons.

If you've seen folk adorning their lemon trees with a string of Christmas fairy lights to bring a little protective heat over winter, then it's good to know that only old-school incandescent bulbs release warmth, and modern LED lights don't.

If You Garden in Zones 10 or 11

Lemon trees will typically survive outdoors year-round in USDA zones 10-11 where winter temperatures don't drop below 30°F. However, a lemon tree growing in a pot is far more vulnerable to cold than one planted in the ground, so you may need to move it to a sheltered postion.

If you Garden in Zone 9

It's generally safe to overwinter a lemon tree outdoors, but you must monitor the weather and be ready to give it the temporary protection of a frost blanket if temperatures threaten to drop below 30°F. A tree growing in a pot is more vulnerable to cold than one growing in the ground, but it does bring the opportunity of moving it to stand next to a warm, sheltered house wall.

If you Garden in Zone 8 or Colder

In zones 8 and below, freezing temperatures will kill a lemon tree, so bring the plant indoors before fall frosts and only move it back outdoors once spring frosts are fully passed. An unheated greenhouse or conservatory or bright porch is ideal, as long as the temperature doesn't dip below 40°F. A room with a constant temperature is far preferable to one that's heated, where the fluctuations will lead to dropped leaves.

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Look after your lemon tree in October and there will be fruit on the tree for months that'll keep ripening all through late fall and winter. Protected from falling temperatures, your tree will survive through winter, ready to grow another crop of juicy lemons next year.

By early fall, leaves are starting to collect along fences and driveways, and parts of the vegetable garden are beginning to fill with fading stems and spent vines. A lot of homeowners bag all of it and set it at the curb. Then a few weeks later, some of them go out and buy bagged mulch for the same perennial beds that debris could have covered. Much of that fall cleanup can be shredded and spread over perennial beds as winter mulch. It costs nothing, and it's already sitting in the yard waiting to be used.

Winter mulching doesn't have to mean store-bought material. Shredded leaves and pine needles work well over perennial beds, and several other types of yard debris can too. Most are best applied after the ground has started to freeze, when they help keep soil temperatures more stable through winter.

That matters because repeated freezing and thawing can lift shallow roots and newly planted perennials out of the ground. Known as heave, this leaves them exposed to cold and drying winds. A layer of mulch helps reduce those temperature swings, giving vulnerable plants extra protection until spring. Here are six free materials you can gather during fall cleanup that make excellent winter mulch, plus how to prepare and use each one.

1. Shredded Deciduous Leaves

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Leaves are one of the best free mulches you can collect during fall cleanup, but they work much better shredded than whole. Whole leaves tend to pack into a wet mat that sheds rain and holds moisture against plant crowns, while shredded leaves stay loose enough for air and water to pass through.

You can shred leaves by running over them with a lawn mower in one or two passes, especially if it has a bagger to collect the pieces as you go. If you're dealing with a large volume of leaves every fall, then a dedicated leaf shredder can make the job much quicker. This Worx Electric Leaf Mulcher from Amazon is designed to reduce piles of dry leaves into fine mulch that's easy to spread around the garden or store until you're ready to use it.

If it's still too early to mulch, keep the shredded leaves in paper yard waste bags, a garden bin, or another dry, sheltered spot until the ground begins to freeze. That's the ideal time to spread them around hardy perennials to help keep soil temperatures more stable through winter.

Maple leaves are especially prone to matting, so shredding is particularly important. Black walnut leaves are the exception. They contain juglone, which can harm tomatoes and other sensitive plants, so it's best to compost them first, where the juglone breaks down over several weeks before you use the compost elsewhere in the garden.

2. Pine Needles

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Pine needles, often sold as pine straw, make an excellent free winter mulch. Fresh pine needles are acidic, but once they're used as mulch, they cause little measurable change in soil pH. They also resist compacting under snow, allowing rain and melting snow to drain through to the soil.

Rake up dry needles as they fall and collect them in a reusable pop-up garden bag until you're ready to mulch. I like the Fiskars Kangaroo Collapsible Garden Bag from Amazon, which makes it easy to gather and carry bulky loads of pine needles around the yard. Unlike leaves, pine needles don't need shredding and can be spread straight around perennial beds after the ground has started to freeze.

In dry or fire-prone areas, pine straw can be a fire hazard, so keep it at least a few feet (about 1 m) away from your home and other structures.

3. Chipped Branches and Evergreen Boughs

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Fall isn't the time to prune most shrubs, but dead wood and storm-damaged branches can be removed at any time of year. Rather than throwing them away, healthy branches can be chipped into a long-lasting winter mulch. If you generate a lot of woody debris, a LawnMaster electric wood chipper makes it easy to turn small branches into coarse wood chips for the garden.

Wood chips break down slowly, so they can protect perennial beds for more than one season. Store them in a loose pile until the ground begins to freeze, then spread them around established perennials, keeping the mulch a few inches away from stems and crowns. Avoid using chipped material from diseased trees or shrubs, as it can spread problems around the garden. Dispose of infected branches instead.

If you don't have a chipper, evergreen boughs are another excellent free option and need no preparation at all. Simply lay the branches in a loose crisscross over perennial beds after the ground has frozen. The boughs trap insulating snow while helping to shade the soil from the low winter sun, reducing repeated freeze-thaw cycles. Branches from a cut Christmas tree can be reused in exactly the same way once the holidays are over.

4. Ornamental Grass Trimmings

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Most ornamental grasses are best left standing through winter, as the foliage helps protect the crown from cold weather. Many gardeners wait until late winter or early spring to cut them back, but if a clump has flopped over or is blocking a path, you can trim it earlier.

A pair of Fiskars PowerGear2 Hedge Shears makes light work of cutting back tough, fibrous stems. Before using the cut foliage as mulch, remove any seed heads, as some ornamental grasses self-sow readily and any seeds left behind can sprout the following spring. Cut the stems into pieces about 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) long so they stay in place and allow rainwater to drain through easily.

Spread the chopped stems loosely around perennial beds after the ground has frozen. They'll provide a light insulating layer over winter before gradually breaking down into the soil.

5. Corn Stalks and Garden Cleanout

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Not all garden debris makes good winter mulch. Tomato and squash plants that suffered from blight or powdery mildew should go in the trash, as disease spores can overwinter on infected stems and leaves.

Healthy bean vines and spent annuals, however, can be chopped into smaller pieces and spread over perennial beds once the ground has frozen. They'll gradually break down while helping to protect the soil through winter.

Corn stalks need a little more thought. Larvae of the European corn borer (Ostrinia nubilalis) can overwinter inside them. Running the stalks through a mower can kill many of the larvae, but not all. Instead of using them as mulch, it's better to add chopped corn stalks to a hot compost pile, where they'll break down safely over the course of about a year before they're ready to use in the garden.

6. Finished Yard Compost

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Compost works a little differently from the other materials on this list. While it's excellent for improving soil, it's too dense and fine to provide much insulation on its own.

Spread about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of finished compost over perennial beds after the growing season to feed the soil over the coming months. Then top it with a looser mulch, such as shredded leaves or pine needles, to help insulate the soil and protect plant crowns through winter.

Before spreading compost, it's worth screening out any large sticks or woody pieces that haven't fully broken down. A compost sifter, like this Achla Designs sifter from Amazon, makes this quick and easy. Return any leftover chunks to the compost pile to continue decomposing before using the finished compost elsewhere in the garden.

When to Spread It – and How Deep

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Winter mulch goes on after the top inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of soil has frozen and perennials have gone dormant. In many colder regions, that's not until late fall. Don't spread it too early. An early layer can trap warmth and moisture in the soil, which is the opposite of what dormant plants need. It can also provide shelter for voles and other rodents that may chew on roots and bark. In areas with mild winters, wait until after a few hard freezes before mulching.

Spread about 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) of mulch over perennial beds. Shredded leaves settle as the season goes on, so it's fine to start with a slightly deeper layer. Keep the mulch 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) away from tree trunks and shrub stems to avoid trapping moisture against the bark.

In spring, rake the mulch back gradually as new shoots emerge, but keep it nearby for a week or two in case a late frost is forecast. Once the weather has settled, you can spread the partially decomposed mulch over vegetable beds or add it to the compost pile.

By the end of spring, much of the shredded leaf mulch will have broken down into the soil, ready to be replaced with another free supply from your next fall cleanup.

Plenty of gardeners treat October as cleanup month. The tomato cages come down and the squash vines get yanked, then the beds sit bare until spring. That ground still has plenty of use left in it, though. Cooler nights and a lower sun happen to suit a whole group of crops that bolt or turn bitter in summer heat, and quite a few can go in this month for harvests running from late fall into next spring.

Timing is where it gets tricky. Anyone starting a vegetable garden this late in the year still has options, but much depends on USDA zones (or your equivalent growing zone for non-Americans) and first frost dates. A gardener in mild zone 9 has months of planting weather ahead, while someone in cooler zone 5 might see the soil freeze solid by Thanksgiving – pretty different situations.

The solution is to choose crops that are suited to shorter days and chillier evenings. From leafy greens that thrive with fewer pests in fall to root vegetables that overwinter underground, and even hardy herbs that normally bolt in the high heat of summer. Plenty of options are available for anyone who wants to keep planting seeds in October and enjoy a home-grown seasonal bounty.

How USDA Zones Shape October Planting

One detail catches a lot of people off guard. USDA zones are built on average extreme winter lows, not frost dates, so two towns sharing a zone can see their first frost weeks apart – elevation and coastal influence skew things quite a bit. Zones still work as a rough guide to what can sit in the ground over winter. Frost dates tell when to stop sowing; zones hint at what survives after that.

Count back from the average first frost date using the days to maturity on the seed packet, then add a week or two. Growth slows as fall days shorten, and packet numbers usually assume summer conditions. Overwintering crops are a different story – they only need roots down before the soil freezes.

Cool-Season Vegetables to Sow in October

A few of these work across most of the country this month. Others only pay off where winters stay mild, so it helps to know the zone before buying seed.

1. Garlic

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October is prime time for growing garlic, with cloves going in a few weeks before the ground freezes in zones 3–8. However, planting times for garlic vary slightly by region. Down in zones 9 and 10, there's no rush – November or December works fine.

Break the bulb apart and set individual cloves pointed end up, roughly 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart.

You can plant grocery store garlic, but it is usually a softneck variety grown in mild winters, and it can struggle in colder regions, unlike hardneck garlic types. A garden center or seed catalog is the better source – you can pick up a flavor sampler organic garlic bundle from Botanical Interests, which includes two hardneck varieties and elephant garlic.

Up north, pile on straw mulch once the soil cools – 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) is typical. Freeze-thaw cycles can heave bare cloves right out of the ground otherwise. Harvest comes next summer as the lower leaves brown.

2. Spinach

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Spinach sown in early October across zones 5–7 often overwinters as small rosettes. Come spring, those plants are usually ready to cut weeks before anything sown in March. Zones 8–10 get the easier deal, with steady cutting straight through winter.

Bloomsdale Long Standing, available from Eden Brothers, is a lovely, rich heirloom spinach that performs well with fall planting, while Noble Giant produces huge sweet leaves that do not turn bitter as temperatures drop.

Plant seed ½ inch (1 cm) deep. Germination tends to suffer in warm soil, roughly 75°F (24°C) and up, and a warm spell in early October can push beds into that range. In colder spots, row covers, like these Agfabric ones on Amazon, or loose straw help young plants through hard freezes.

3. Radishes

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Small round radishes rank among the quickest crops around, going from seed to harvest in three to four weeks. That speed makes them a safe October sowing in zones 6–10, while zone 5 gardeners can sometimes squeeze in a crop during the first week or so.

The big winter types are another matter – most need closer to two months, so they're better started in late summer outside the South.

If the idea of classic white and red radishes bores you, then try black radishes. This resilient variety thrives in cool seasons across USDA Zones 3–9 when planted in well-draining soil and full sun. Pick up a pack of Round Black Spanish Radish Seeds at Botanical Interests.

When planting radishes, sow seed ½ inch (1 cm) deep. Crowded radishes tend to put everything into leaves, so thin seedlings to 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) apart.

4. Lettuce

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Lettuce tends to get filed under spring crops. Through much of zones 8–10, though, October is when its best stretch begins. Loose-leaf types may be ready to cut in six or seven weeks, and light frost rarely does much damage. A hard freeze is another matter – expect mushy leaves.

Zones 6 and 7 can pull it off with shelter – a cold frame similar to the Zenport folding cold frame at Lowe's can trap enough daytime warmth to keep leaves coming into early winter. Crack the lid on sunny days, though. It gets hot in there fast.

There are so many varieties of lettuce to choose from, and so it's worth getting a mix pack of seeds, like this Survival Seeds 10 Heirloom Lettuces Collection, from Amazon. Many can be harvested as cut-and-come-again.

Scatter seed thinly with barely any soil on top; often lettuces germinate better when a little light reaches them.

5. Fava Beans

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Snap beans rarely survive a frost. Fava beans are a different animal, a cool-season legume that can take a fair amount of cold. Gardeners in zones 8–10 can sow them anytime from October to December, and growth crawls along all winter before pods show up in spring. Zone 7 is more of a gamble – seed labeled for overwintering helps, but a rough winter can still set plants back.

Windsor fava beans from Botanical Interests are tasty and look pretty in beds. You can eat the young pods like snap peas.

Plant 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) deep with about 6 inches (15 cm) between seeds. By spring, the stems may be tall enough to need a stake. After the last pods come off, cut plants at the soil line and leave the roots where they are. They return some nitrogen to the bed for whatever goes in next.

6. Carrots

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This one mostly belongs to Southern gardeners. October-sown carrots in zones 8–10 typically need two to three months to size up, and a carrot pulled in January often tastes noticeably sweeter than a summer one. Cold soil pushes roots to turn some starch into sugar. Farther north, there usually isn't enough time before the ground freezes.

Organo Republic sells a 10 Unique Carrot Seeds Variety Pack on Amazon, which offers all the flavor variety you could want.

Seed goes in ¼ inch (6 mm) deep, and it's slow – sometimes two weeks or more to sprout. Keeping that top layer moist is honestly the hard part. A strip of burlap laid over the row helps, as long as it comes off the moment seedlings appear.

7. Herbs

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From parsley to cilantro, starting an herb garden is a great way to fill your life with fragrance and flavor in the months to come. Get started with Home Grown's 15-Variety Herb Pack on Amazon; if you're worried about cooler temperatures, you can always keep them in pots on a sunny windowsill. Most, however, should cope in zones 5–10, making them ideal crops to plant in October.

October is best for planting cool-season herbs such as parsley, cilantro, chives, dill, and chervil, which can handle lower temperatures and may keep producing into fall. You can also plant hardy perennial herbs like thyme, sage, oregano, and mint in many areas while the soil is still workable. Some herbs will need winter protection in colder regions.

8. Snow Peas

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Snow peas are cool-season vegetables that are quite frost-hardy, but don’t worry; they require no more work than growing other varieties of peas, making them one of our favorite low-maintenance vegetables to plant in October (particularly if you’re based in USDA zones 8 and 9).

Just make sure you get them in the ground about 6 to 8 weeks before your area's first fall frost to allow the roots to establish before a hard freeze – and mulch well, too. We’re fans of the Dwarf Grey Sugar heirloom snow peas, available from Eden Brothers.

Plant snow pea seeds directly into loose, well-drained soil about 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart, ideally beside a trellis or other support for the vines to climb. Choose a spot with full sun and keep the soil consistently moist. Harvest the flat pods once they reach a useful size, before the peas inside begin to swell.

9. Shallots

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One of the easiest vegetables to plant in October, shallots are very similar to garlic in lots of ways; all you need to do is sow sets or seeds, like the sweet, mild Zebrune Shallots from Botanical Interests, in loose, well-drained soil amended with organic matter, then wait until June or July to harvest.

Fall planting is generally most successful in USDA Zones 4–10, although gardeners in colder Zones 3–5 may need to add a thick layer of mulch or plant in raised beds for extra drainage and protection. In the coldest areas, spring planting may be more reliable.

10. Beets

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Of course, beets are on our list of vegetables to plant in October; these tasty red crops can be grown all winter long in many southern states (though you’ll need a soil temperature of at least 40°F in the north).

Sow beet seeds directly into loose, well-drained soil around ½ inch deep, spacing them roughly 1–2 inches apart. Once seedlings emerge, thin them so the remaining plants have room to swell, or harvest the thinnings as baby greens. In warmer Zones 7–10, October sowings can provide a steady winter crop, while gardeners in colder areas may need to use row cover or a cold frame.

Most will be ready for harvesting after seven to eight weeks, although beet greens can be picked earlier. And, if you want to up the ante, try something like Organo Republic's 10 Rare Beet Seeds Variety Pack from Walmart; it should make for a truly spectacular display!

Fall is when grass directs its energy into growing strong roots, and using a lawn aerator now is the best way to boost growth for a much lusher lawn next year. It's more effective, even, than fertilizing it! You see, after this baking-hot El Nino summer, the soil beneath many of our lawns has compacted into a solid mass that’s very difficult for grass roots to penetrate. Not only that, but this compaction makes it tough for water, air and nutrients to seep into the soil and nourish those all-important roots. But don’t fret – this problem is easily fixed in 10 minutes with a lawn aerator.

Aerate your lawn in October and roots will grow far better, supporting greener, lusher grass. And the easiest way to do it is with a rotary lawn aerator. This handy garden tool is formed of a cylinder covered in sharp spikes, that's pushed around the lawn with a long handle. It punches hundreds of tiny holes into the ground, breaking up the soil structure and allowing vital moisture and airflow into the ground.

Every lawn will benefit from being aerated in October, especially this year to revive and repair grass after summer heat. Take advantage of the perfect root-boosting seasonal window in October and you’ll see impressive results above ground next year, making neighbors green with envy. And you can bet your bottom dollar this fall gardening task is being done on every golf course green around the country! Part of the Weekend Win series, aerating a lawn to encourage strong root growth is one of those quick and easy gardening jobs that brings a big reward, and is an essential part of lawn care.

Why Lawn Aeration is So Important in Fall

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It’s a little known fact that grass roots need air to breathe. While the blades above the soil surface take in carbon dioxide, tiny hairs on the roots absorb oxygen. It’s a process called cellular respiration and it's a vital part of how plants grow. Healthy soil is full of these little air pockets that are continually flushed out by rain, bringing in a fresh air supply. But when soil has been compacted after a summer of being walked on, which crushes these air pockets, the condensed structure can become impenetrable.

Without these air pockets, oxygen-deprived roots are weakened and start dying – which you’ll see with thinning grass above ground.

In October, cooling air has triggered grass to reduce its growing rate above ground but the soil is still warm enough to allow strong root growth, so plants are directing most of their energy underground. Regular rainfall also helps to fuel this below-surface expansion, and keeps the soil soft enough for fragile new roots to easily dive deeper into the ground. So, aerating a lawn in early fall provides it with everything it needs for strong root growth, resulting in a bigger root system that will make grass better able to cope with drought next summer.

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If you’re overseeding or reseeding bare patches – and who isn’t after this summer? – as part of your fall lawn care then aerating first means grass seed drops into all the punched holes for optimal germination and protection from birds.

Because soil structure also affects drainage, a compacted lawn can quickly become waterlogged in fall and winter. Roots that sit in water are unable to breathe and will drown and die, giving us another reason why October is a great month to aerate lawns.

Choose the Right Rotary Aerator For You

While you can aerate a lawn by pushing the tines of a garden fork into the ground, or using a push-pull aerating tool to remove small plugs of soil, by far the quickest, easiest way is to use a rotary lawn aerator.

There are different types of roller lawn aerators, so choose the one that’ll work best for you and your lawn.

Best for Budget: Standard Rotary Push Tine Aerator

AsterOutdoor Heavy Duty Rolling Lawn Aerator

A standard rotary aerator has rows of steel tines on a drum. This simple gardening tool will get the job done quickly without splashing too much cash. If you have an average-sized lawn and enjoy loose, loamy soil, this basic gardening tool is all you need.

Best for Ease: Spiral Rotary Push Tine Aerator

WaLensee Heavy Duty Rolling Lawn Aerator

Arranging the tines in a spiral formation means less energy is required to push the cylinder along, making this a smart buy if you’ve got a bigger lawn. If you don’t have much strength in your wrists, or your ground is rocky, then a spiral tine aerator tends to keep rolling if a spike hits a stone, with less jarring.

Some designs such as the WaLensee aerator bring the option of filling the cylinder with pebbles or sand to add weight, making it easier to push tines into heavily compacted soil, too. So, if you can stretch to this budget, it’s a good investment.

Best for Heavy Compaction: Rotary Spike Blade Lawn Aerator

Suchtale 18" Rolling Lawn Aerator With Steel Spike Tines

If you’ve never aerated your lawn before, have clay or silty soil with particles that get packed tightly together, or the ground is heavily compacted – perhaps by being regularly driven over – a spike blade lawn aerator is a better bet. The sharp star-shaped blades slice slits into the ground, creating multiple breathing channels.

If you’re planning on overseeding your lawn, this brings more seed-to-soil contact than a spike aerator does, for better germination. And, if your lawn is full of thatch, and you don’t have time to rake it out right now, these blades will easily slice through it. If you have a new garden, and especially a newbuild plot with fresh turf likely sitting on a layer of heavily compacted soil, aerating with the added power of a spike blade aerator – at least for the first couple of years – would be a wise move, and perhaps you could club together with neighbors to buy a communal lawn tool.

Many designs also have a platform that can be loaded with bricks, to add weight.

How to Aerate Your Lawn

Got the right tool? Let's fix your lawn to get greener grass, pronto! First mow the lawn as usual – there's no need to cut it any shorter than usual. One or two days before you plan to aerate your lawn, push a screwdriver into the ground. If it slides in, the ground is soft enough to be easily aerated. If not, water the lawn or wait for a decent rain shower. Wait at least 24 hours so you don’t damage a still-wet lawn, then push the rotary aerator all around the lawn, going over any well-used areas such as around the washing line where soil will be more heavily compacted, twice.

If you’re planning on detaching your lawn, get that done first. If you’re planning on overseeding or feeding your lawn, do that after you’ve aerated.

You can aerate your lawn every year in fall to reverse summer ground compaction. If you notice any spots where water pools through fall and winter, aerate those areas again in spring. Depending on your USDA zones, there are a few other considerations:

If You Live in a Hot USDA Zone

Hard-baked, arid soils can be nearly impenetrable post-summer in zones 8-11 so water your lawn extra well a day or two before aerating. This allows the tines to penetrate deeply without being damaged.

If You Live in a Cold USDA Zone

In zones 3-6, aeration is a vital part of October lawn care to avoid waterlogging through the colder seasons. Aerate as early as possible in fall so roots have ample time for growth before the first hard frost, and be careful the soil isn't saturated when you're working. Walking repeatedly across soggy soil can cause further compaction, so wait for a break in rainfall and soil is moist but not muddy.

Add this easy task to your list of gardening jobs in October and you will create ideal conditions for grass to grow its roots, just at the point of the year that it focuses its energy on this vital task. If you spot any bare patches, do this timely test for grub worms and eradicate them before winter. And then sit back, relax, and look forward to the joys of having the best lawn in town next year!

More Weekend Wins

This feature is part of the Weekend Wins series, packed with quick and easy 10-minute tasks and gardening tips and tricks that bring a big reward.

Get Xmas Blooms

Christmas cactus blooms are a delightful part of holiday decor when you trick plants into flowering on time.

Plant Pansies

Tuck cold-hardy pansies into pots and hanging baskets for months of easy-breezy fall-to-winter blooms.

Add lawn bulbs

Plant fast-growing bulbs in your lawn and enjoy drifts of lavender-hued blooms in a few weeks.

Revive Pots

Treat tired flowering plants in pots to some tomato feed and fuel another flush of fresh blooms.

Boost Roses

Remove suckers that are stealing energy from your rose shrubs and enjoy bigger blooms next summer.

Groom Grasses

Use a $4 dog comb to give ornamental grasses a quick groom and save yourself hours weeding in spring.

Coleus is invariably one of the big sirens in my summer yard. The last couple of years, thanks to a combination of the right spot and extended sunshine, they have ballooned in size to shrub levels of chartreuse, plum, chocolate and hot pink. Even as other plants start to lose their zing, coleus can dominate early fall with enduring lush folds of kaleidoscopic color. But as seasonal shifts bring on that distinctive evening chill, it’s time to start deciding what to do with your resident foliage queens.

While some of us grow coleus as single-season annuals for summer containers and border displays, you can easily keep those vibrant tones going once the first crisp autumn breeze rolls in. The secret is bringing yours inside and keeping them in the right place. Coleus is a tropical perennial at heart, so it’s more than happy to trade the chilly patio for a cozy, sunlit windowsill. Growing coleus indoors in the right way brings a pop of natural color that is high impact yet surprisingly low fuss.

Giving your coleus the best chance of surviving the chillier months comes down to a combination of smart overwintering and low-level propagation. If you have never overwintered outdoor plants before, don't worry. It’s super easy to transition, care for, and even multiply your coleus collection this fall. Here’s how to keep yours safe, warm, and thriving for non-stop color that lasts straight through to next year.

Why Bring Coleus Indoors

If there is one golden rule of growing coleus, it is that these sun-loving divas despise the cold. Waiting until the first frost is already on the grass is a gamble you’ll almost certainly lose, as chilled coleus stems can turn to mush fast. So long before winter frost turns your lawn crisp, be mindful of dropping nighttime temperatures. When they dip below 50°F (10°C) this needs to serve as your green light to start the indoors migration. In chillier northern zones, that rescue mission really has to start now, while in warmer climates you can enjoy outdoor patio color for a few more weeks.

Acting before the cold sets in ensures your plants make a smooth transition to indoor life without suffering thermal shock. You don't have to pick just one rescue method. To double your plant power, you can bring your standout potted coleus inside and adapt it as a houseplant over winter for instant color, while taking a few cuttings provides a compact, space-saving backup on a bright windowsill. Taking action while your coleus is still bursting with late-summer energy means your cuttings will root in record time, giving you a flourishing burst of bonus color.

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Leaf shape and habit can guide how you style them inside. Big, theatrical varieties like Kong, Wasabi, Henna or Saturn can look incredible positioned in tall decorative ceramic planters, as long as you give them a sunny window. Meanwhile, trailing or finer-textured varieties like Chocolate Covered Cherry or Strawberry Drop take well to hanging baskets, wall mounts, elevated pots or small windowsill arrangements. By making your move in early fall while the plant is still vigorous and actively growing, both the main plant and your new cuttings will adapt far more swiftly to indoor humidity and light levels, setting you up for a worry-free winter of color.

Moving indoors is a great time to replenish potting soil that will have taken a beating over summer. Prep a bag of potting soil, ideally a light, gritty, fast-draining cactus and succulent mix or something amended with perlite, such as Back to the Roots Organic Succulent & Cacti Mix, available from Walmart, to prevent moisture retention. Then you’re ready to give your plant a cozy transition with these tips to coleus care indoors.

Moving Coleus Indoors

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Bringing your plant indoors requires a bit of thoughtful preparation to keep both the coleus and your existing houseplant family healthy. Start by giving your potted coleus a thorough health check a few days before the big move. Inspect the undersides of the leaves, stem junctures, and leaf axils for sneaky freeloaders. Common garden pests like aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites love to hide in crevices.

Spraying foliage with a gentle organic neem solution is the ultimate way to ensure only the prettiest leaves cross your threshold. Give your coleus a gentle spray with a hose, or a wipedown using a soft cloth and mild insecticidal soap. I like to use a neem-based agent like Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Organic Neem Oil Spray from Walmart for a quick spritz to combat mealybugs or spider mites.

Acclimatization is the secret sauce if you want to avoid the dreaded leaf drop. Coleus loves bright light, but moving straight from full patio sun to indoor conditions can give your friend a shock. So transition it smoothly by setting the pot on a bright, sheltered porch for a couple of days before nestling it indoors by your sunniest south or west-facing window. Gently topdress your coleus with some of your fresh indoor potting mix or a handful of organic compost to boost root insulation.

Finally, use some fine-tip pruning snips to trim away damaged foliage and leggy stems. Snips like highly rated Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon give clean, precise cuts to soft coleus stems. As well as a light watering, I like to apply a diluted stress-relieving liquid seaweed tonic to support root recovery as part of care for coleus plants indoors.

Taking Coleus Cuttings in Fall

(Image credit: Stephanie Jackson Gardens and Flowers Collection / Alamy)

It’s something I do instinctively now as the seasons shift – taking cuttings of key plants at the end of summer is taking advantage of their natural high. They are still loaded with growth hormones and strong enough to take a little transitional stress. Rooting coleus cuttings in water is so easy, it would be rude not to, and it can be a genuine joy to see those first roots curling into the glass. It’s clean, stress-free, and virtually rot-proof as long as you follow a few simple rules.

To start, use sharp, sterile precision pruning snips. To be sure your snips are sterile, give them a quick wipe with some isopropyl alcohol or neem oil. Take 4-6-inch (10-15cm) cuttings from healthy, non-flowering shoot tips. One of the key tricks to dodging calamity is to make sure there are no leaves allowed to dip into the water (which can quickly decay and foul water). Strip away the lower leaves, leaving 3-4 top leaves. Upright varieties shouldn’t need a hormone powder, but if you are propagating trailing varieties, add a little HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, available from Amazon, for a gentle catalyst.

(Image credit: Stephanie Jackson Gardens and Flowers Collection / Alamy)

Place your cuttings in jars, glass bud vases or glass propagation stations, filled with room-temperature tap or rainwater. You can use standard jars, but avoid wide rims. Go for something that allows for root growth while reducing the risk of stems sliding into the glass. I like the Yibot Propagation Station with Wooden Frame, available from Amazon, because it has a generous teardrop shape and the narrower top will keep the cutting anchored. Just make sure the bare stem nodes (where the leaves were removed) are fully submerged.

Set the glass on a warm windowsill that receives plenty of bright, indirect sunlight, keeping them away from chilly drafts. And don’t let the leaves touch cold window panes. Warmth is essential for rapid cell division, so keeping room temperatures around 65-75°F (18-24°C) ensures white roots emerge in as little as 7-10 days. To prevent stem rot, change the water every few days to maintain oxygen levels. You should see roots inside 7-10 days. Pot up when roots are an inch (2.5cm) long for gorgeous free plants to gift or hoard all winter long.

Indoor Coleus Care

(Image credit: Ali Majdfar / Getty Images)

Keeping your coleus thriving indoors all winter is surprisingly simple once you master a few natural rhythms. It’s all about balancing light, moisture and some gentle tidying to preserve those rich foliage colors. Position them where they can soak up plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. If you need to top up light levels, add a full-spectrum grow light to keep those neon patterns popping. For something that caters to both taller coleus plants and cuttings on shelves, the Barrina T10 Full Spectrum Standing Grow Light from Amazon is currently on discount and can be adjusted easily.

Watering requires a careful hand during the cooler months: think moist, not soggy. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings, maintaining good drainage and taking care not to let pots sit in waterlogged saucers. Growth naturally slows in winter, so hold off on heavy fertilizers. Instead, apply a diluted, organic houseplant feed or seaweed tonic such as Bloom City Seaweed Fertilizer from Walmart. Just do this once a month to keep roots strong without forcing leggy top growth.

Finally, help both potted plants and newly potted cuttings with routine pinching. Use your fingers or sharp pruning snips to pinch back the top growing tips and emerging flower spikes every few weeks, forcing the plant to branch out into a lush, bushy specimen in good time for spring.

Frequently Asked QuestionsWhy does coleus fail or lose its leaves over winter?

Leaf drop in winter is a cry for help, caused by cold drafts, poor sunlight, or soggy soil. Coleus are sensitive to chilly window glass and furnace blasts, so position them away from drafty doorways or radiators. Low light levels also trigger leaf shedding. Your plant is basically shedding foliage it cannot support. Keep soil lightly damp (not waterlogged) and ensure pots sit in bright, indirect light to keep foliage lush and firm.

When can you safely move indoor coleus back outside?

You can safely transition your overwintered coleus and rooted cuttings back outside in spring once the danger of frost has passed. Wait until night temperatures reliably stay above 50°F (10°C). However, before moving them outdoors, spend a week hardening them off by setting pots in a sheltered, shady outdoor spot during the day and bringing them inside at night to prevent sunburn and cold shock.

Can you grow coleus as an indoor houseplant year-round?

Yes, coleus makes a very adaptable perennial houseplant if provided with the right indoor conditions. To keep it thriving year-round, place it in your sunniest window (or under a full-spectrum grow light) so its vibrant colors stay bold and distinct (just watch out for chilly window glass). The key trick for long-term indoor success is routine pinching. Regularly snip off growing tips and emerging flower spikes to prevent the plant becoming tall and woody, forcing continuous bushy growth.

(Image credit: Catocala7 / Alamy)

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Who knew there were perennials to avoid planting?

I know, I know; fall is an undeniably great time to get these comback kids in the ground, as the weather is cooler, the garden centers are still full of tempting plants, and your new plant baby has the whole dormant season ahead to settle in.

If you are off to do a spot of fall perennial shopping, though, try to remember this: just because a plant is sitting happily on a garden center bench, it doesn't necessarily mean you should take it home. In fact, there is a long list of perennials to avoid, for those who don't want to give themselves a gardening-induced headache later on down the line.

7 Perennials To Avoid Planting This Fall

Why? Well, some perennials are a little too good at spreading. Others can escape the garden and cause problems in natural areas. A few, too, are simply much more difficult to control than their innocent-looking containers would have you believe. And that's particularly easy to forget when a plant is being sold as an attractive, pollinator-friendly or low-maintenance addition to the garden.

Now, I'm not suggesting that every plant on this list of perennials to avoid planting is universally terrible, or that you can never grow any of them. Indeed, in some parts of the US, certain species are perfectly manageable or even considered useful garden plants.

With that caveat in place, then, these are seven plants I'd personally research very carefully before putting them in the ground...

1. Butterfly Bush

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Butterfly bush is almost comically easy to sell to gardeners; it has beautiful flower clusters, attracts butterflies (including, likely, your birth month butterfly), grows quickly and gives you exactly the sort of summer-long color that makes you feel you've made an excellent garden decision.

The problem is that butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii) is non-native to the US and can become invasive in some regions, escaping cultivation and establishing in natural areas. There's another reason to think twice if you're planting specifically for butterflies, too, as butterfly bush might provide nectar for adult butterflies, but it isn't a host plant for their caterpillars.

That means there are often better choices for a wildlife-friendly garden. Try looking for native plants suited to your region, such as this swamp milkweed from Nature Hills, native asters, coneflowers, hyssop, and bee balm.

Make A Butterfly-Friendly Garden:

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Burpee Monarch Sanctuary Wildflower Mix

Early Bloomer

Fast-Growing-Trees.com Emerald Blue Creeping Phlox Plants

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Wayfair Gracie Oaks Estas Pollination Palace for Bees, Butterflies, and Ladybugs

2. Periwinkle

(Image credit: Alexander Denisenko / Shutterstock)

Periwinkle is one of those plants that can look almost too well behaved to cause trouble; its glossy evergreen leaves make an attractive groundcover, and its small blue-purple flowers are particularly useful if you're trying to cover a shady area where not much else wants to grow.

Unsurprisingly for seasoned gardeners everywhere, though, that's precisely part of the problem. Yes, periwinkle (Vinca minor) can spread beyond the area where it was planted, forming dense groundcover that can crowd out other vegetation. And once a groundcover has settled in and started creeping underneath shrubs, through borders and beyond garden edges, removing every piece can become considerably less fun than planting it was.

3. Mint

(Image credit: Joaquin Corbalan P / Shutterstock)

Now, before anyone sends me an angry email: I am absolutely not saying you shouldn't grow mint (I love mint!). What I am saying, though, is that I would think very carefully before planting it directly into the ground.

Mint is one of those plants that starts out looking wonderfully innocent. You plant a little clump, harvest a few leaves for drinks and cooking, and congratulate yourself on your excellent decision... and then it takes over your borders and you have to explain to your husband what you did when he wasn't looking. (Yes, fine; I speak from experience).

So my rule is simple: mint in a pot? Absolutely. Mint loose in the garden? No, nay, never! Hey, it's a good excuse to bag yourself a pack of four pre-potted mint plants from The Three Company Store, quite honestly.

4. Hops

(Image credit: jeka1984/Getty Images)

Hops might seem like an innocent choice for adding height and summer interest to the garden. But if you've ever planted one in the wrong spot, you'll know just how quickly those innocent-looking vines can become a problem.

Common hops (Humulus lupulus) is a perennial, but its fast-growing annual bines can reach impressive heights in a single growing season. The plant also spreads via its perennial crown and rhizomes, making established plants surprisingly difficult to keep contained. And that's where hops can become a headache in a mixed border. Give it a support and it will happily climb; give it a nearby shrub, tree or anything else it can wind around, and it may not be quite so easy to control (just ask my poor lilac!).

That's not to say common hops is invasive everywhere; still, its vigour can still make it a poor choice for a small or densely planted garden. Think carefully (and maybe plump for a pollinator-friendly Sweet Autumn Clematis from Nature Hills instead).

5. Lily Of The Valley

(Image credit: Xxposure / Shutterstock)

Lily of the valley is another plant that can be incredibly tempting in a shady garden; its tiny white bell-shaped flowers are beautiful, fragrant and wonderfully old-fashioned, making it easy to understand why gardeners have been planting it for generations.

That being said (I know, I really do sound like a harbinger of doom), lily of the valley can spread aggressively through underground rhizomes, and it can be difficult to contain once established, making it one of those pesky perennials that can spread unexpectedly.

There's another reason I'd be cautious if you have children or pets: the plant is toxic if eaten. And, while that doesn't automatically mean you need to remove an established plant, it does make me think twice before introducing it to a garden where curious hands or mouths could come into contact with it.

7. Burning Bush

(Image credit: Willowpix / Getty Images)

Few shrubs make quite the same impression in fall as burning bush. The foliage turns a brilliant crimson-red, making it incredibly tempting when you're looking for a plant that will give the garden some late-season drama.

The problem? That spectacular fall color comes with a catch, as burning bush is an invasive shrub in parts of the US, where it can escape gardens and spread into natural areas. Its abundant fruits are particularly problematic because birds can eat them and disperse the seeds well beyond the garden.

Still, burning bush has been a popular landscape plant for decades and is frequently used in the gardening industry, even in spite of its invasive behavior is well documented. Instead, why not look for a native shrub that offers brilliant fall color in your region, like red chokeberry, viburnums, dogwoods, or fothergilla?

Shop Fall-Color Shrubs:

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All I am really saying is this: before you put that attractive new perennial in your cart, spend five minutes researching how it behaves in your state, because there's nothing quite so satisfying as planting a perennial in fall and watching it return year after year.

Just make sure it's the perennial you actually intended to plant, rather than the one that eventually decides to plant itself everywhere.

Amanda Seyfried has done something celebrities and the average person dream about and talk about ad nauseam but never actually get around to doing: she’s made her property completely disappear from prying eyes (in her case, nosy paparazzi, and in yours, nosy neighbors). Located in the middle of the Hollywood Hills, the traditional-style house, built in 1916, was just listed for $3.2 million.

It’s tucked away behind gates and tall hedges, despite sitting in one of the most densely populated, paparazzi-adjacent neighborhoods in the world. From the street, it’s basically wearing that invisibility cloak from Harry Potter, but inside, it’s a whole different story.

This is actually the power of privacy planting when it’s done correctly. Unlike most celebrity gardening “inspiration,” you can actually achieve this in your own garden, anywhere in the world.

A post shared by Carolwood Estates (@carolwoodrealestate)

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Start With a Fast-Growing Evergreen Hedge

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

The backbone of this whole look is the tall, dense evergreen hedge that takes care of your privacy all year long, even in winter. In a warmer climate like Los Angeles, Indian laurel fig (Ficus nitida), available from Citronella King on Amazon, is exactly what you want for this type of screening. The iconic "Hollywood hedge", it grows quickly into a full, glossy wall that you can maintain at any height you choose.

Thuja Green Giant arborvitae, available at Trees.com, is the equivalent in a cooler climate, and it’s a real workhorse. Growing three to five feet every year, it has a deep green color that doesn’t turn yellow in winter and a height that gives you some serious privacy rather than the polite suggestion of it.

For boundaries where you don’t necessarily have all the space in the world, Emerald Green arborvitae, available from Plant Addicts, grows to about 12 feet and will stay narrow enough that you can plant it close to a fence line without worrying it’s going to take over the whole garden.

What’s key to all of these is planting in autumn before the soil gets too cold, watering them very well throughout their first summer, and having a little patience (Rome wasn’t built in a day). Most fast-growing hedge plants will give you a noticeable screen within 2 years (that may seem long, but I promise, time flies!)

Shop Privacy Hedges

CitronellaKing Indian Laurel Figs (Ficus nitida) – Set of 3

Emerald Green Arborvitae

Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae

Add Gates and Structure

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Hedges alone won’t give you the “Seyfried effect” (as I will refer to it from now on); you also need gates to carry at least half the load. A boundary that combines tall trees with a solid structure creates the feeling of a mental enclosure for you as well as a physical one. Even a simple timber or metal gate within the hedge line can take your property from exposed to private practically overnight.

If a full gate isn’t in your budget or it’s just not your thing, a pergola or arch over an entryway planted with lovely climbing roses or jasmine can give you something similar with a delightful scent on top. It’s a threshold that tells everyone passing it they are now in a separate world from the street.

Shop Privacy Structures

Winado Iron Arbor

Sunnibety Metal Planter Box With Trellis Privacy Screen

Arlmont & Co. Heavy Duty Birdcage Garden Arch Trellis

Layer the Planting for Depth

(Image credit: Neil Hepworth/RHS)

A single hedge gives you the wall, and layered planting creates the garden, but you still need that middle tier so you don’t have any gaps. You have lots of flowering shrub choices, including viburnum, pittosporum, and Mexican orange blossom; these give you structure year-round, with seasonal interest as an added benefit.

Don’t forget about ground level, which can help fill in the bases of taller plants and keep stems from looking bare and leggy. Plants like ferns, ornamental grasses, and spreading perennials are a great choice. This gives the whole garden a natural, organic quality rather than looking like you had it installed.

Layered planting also makes a boundary feel further away when you're trying to create privacy. This is a useful trick if you’re dealing with a smaller, urban garden where the fence line is close, and the neighbor's windows aren’t far enough.

When done well, privacy planting doesn’t look like a defense mechanism from the world. It looks like a garden you want to be yours and don’t want anyone to see. In a world where most people have their outdoor space visible from 14 different angles, that’s about the most aspirational thing you can have.

You thought you might have trouble with your job. You thought you might have issues with your mother-in-law. But you never imagined you might have to deal with birds pooping on your car.

Stop taking it personally! Your car isn't attracting birds, and birds aren't targeting you. Birds tend to poop wherever they are whenever nature calls. But you can get your car out of harm’s way with a few preventive measures.

Let's explore five ways to stop birds from pooping on cars parked in your driveway, so you can spend less time cleaning bird poop and more time enjoying your outdoor space. These simple changes can help reduce the chances of your car ending up beneath your neighborhood birds' favorite perches.

Why Do Birds Poop on My Car?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Whether you have a rusty old Volkswagen Vanagon or a shiny new Tesla, birds aren't picking your vehicle to dirty with their poop. In fact, it has very little to do with your car at all.

Birds have little control over when or where they poop. Most lack a bladder and a tight sphincter muscle, which means they can't hold back their waste. Instead, whenever the need arises, they simply defecate. If they feel the need as they soar over your patio, they poop on the patio. If they feel the need as they fly above your car, they poop on your car.

There is no one definitive way to prevent birds from pooping on your car. But you can do a number of things to reduce how often it happens. Here are my best tips.

1. Discourage Perching

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Is your driveway shaded by trees? Are you parked beneath electric wires or phone cables? Are there streetlights right above your parking spot? Birds like to rest and congregate in these places. And when a group of birds sits above your car for periods of time, they are likely to poop… on your car.

If overhanging trees are the problem, then trimming the worst offending branches could make a big difference. A telescopic pruning pole, like Fiskars' Extendable 2-in-1 Tree Pruner & Pole Saw with Rotating Head, available on Amazon, extends up to 12 feet, enabling you to tackle branches that overhang the car. If you want to cut your neighbor's tree, then make sure you ask them first.

If there's a ledge or flat roof area near the car that birds like to perch on, then consider fitting bird spikes, like these Bird-X Bird Spikes from Lowe's. As threatening as their name sounds, bird spikes don't harm birds, but they do make it uncomfortable for them to land.

And keep bird feeders and bird baths well away from your driveway. The less attractive you make the area as a place to feed, drink, or perch, the less time birds are likely to spend above your car.

2. Don't Wax Your Car

If your car is shiny and waxed, it can reflect light and appear like a pool of water from above. Water has a relaxing effect on birds, so they may be attracted to it. In addition, during mating season, male birds can get territorial and mistake their mirrored reflection for a rival male. He might mark his territory by pooping on it.

If the idea of a dirty car is too much to bear, you can buy tough, washable car covers that you can hose down every week, like this EzyShade Car Cover on Amazon. It comes in a wide range of shapes and sizes and, in addition to stopping bird poop, will also protect against snow and dust.

3. Scare Them with Sparkle

(Image credit: FotoVSmirnov / Getty Images)

This is an old trick, but it works like a charm. Dangle anything that could reflect sunlight near your parking spot. This might include old pie pans or CDs hung on strings, or even strips of aluminum foil. Moving, shiny objects reflect light and images, which can threaten birds and scare them away.

You can even buy reflective scare tape ribbon, like this one from MP Mypole Store on Amazon, and tie it around tree branches and other structures.

4. Use a Predator Decoy

(Image credit: Mark R Coons/Getty Images)

Might a bird mistake a plastic replica of a bird of prey for a real owl? It's possible. A decoy predator placed on or near the car will certainly make birds think twice before flying over your car. The Dalen Lifelike Great Horned Owl Decoy Bird Repellent, available on Amazon, is well rated and doubles as a charming garden ornament.

A couple of rubber snakes draped across the car is another option that's easy to set up when you get home.

The trick to using predator decoys is to move them every day or two. Otherwise, the birds will soon realize it's a fake.

5. Rethink Your Car Color

Do birds deliberately poop on dark or brightly colored cars? It seems unlikely. A few small studies have suggested that black, brown, or red cars may attract more bird droppings than white or silver ones, but there's no solid evidence that birds deliberately target certain colors. As for why, it's mostly speculation. I'm not convinced, so I'd call changing your car color a last resort – if you get really desperate!

Shop Bird Deterrents

Mp Mypole Bird Scare Tape Ribbon

Bird-X Bird Spikes Bird Repellent

Dalen Lifelike Great Horned Owl Decoy Bird Repellent

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

3738 West 24th Ave., Vancouver

Type: Two-bedroom, three-bathroom detached

Size: 2,448 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $2,476,500

Listed for: $2,275,000

Sold for: $2,100,000

Sold on: July 25

Days on market in this listing: 36

Listing agent: Colette Gerber at Heller Murch Realty

Buyers agent: William Li at Renanza Realty Inc.

The big sell: According to listing agent Colette Gerber, the value of this south-facing property was mainly in the land thanks to its location west of Dunbar with some of Vancouver’s top schools and myriad conveniences that line Dunbar Street nearby, as well as the potential for a new build to also enjoy views to the north. The current home was built in 1925 and has a simple floor plan with a kitchen, bathroom, dining and living rooms on the main floor and two bedrooms, a bathroom and an office upstairs. There is a spacious covered porch at the front of the house, stained glass windows, hardwood floors with inlay detailing, crown molding, a gas fireplace, and an AGA stove in the kitchen offset by a traditional tiled backsplash. The garden has plenty of opportunity to keep green thumbs busy and for piece of mind, a certificate shows that the oil tank had been removed.

710 — 2888 Cambie St., Vancouver

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom apartment

Size: 1,633 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,873,000

Listed for: $1,999,800

Sold for: $1,985,000

Sold on: June 24

Days on market in this listing: Six

Listing agent: Jessica Chen PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Jannelle de la Torre and Teresa Comeau at ReMax Select Realty

The big sell: What is unique about the sale of this condo in Vancouver’s Mount Pleasant neighbourhood is that it sold alongside the adjacent unit giving the ability to combine the two and create a five-bedroom one-level suite that expands the layout to 2,800 square feet. The homes reside in The Spot on Cambie Street, a mid-rise concrete building that was built in 2017 with central air conditioning, concierge services, a fitness centre, rooftop terrace and EV-ready parking. This particular unit has a northeasterly corner position with an interior design that demonstrates Craftsman-inspired finishings with wide hallways, custom built-ins, a gourmet Bosch kitchen, upgraded lighting, and an 800-square-foot private terrace with panoramic North Shore Mountain and city vistas. Combined with the neighbouring property, there will be six parking stalls in total and two storage lockers, while the strata permits pets and rentals.

8340 Lunen Rd., Richmond

Type: Five-bedroom, four-bathroom detached

Size: 3,648 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $2,218,000

Listed for: $2,099,000

Sold for: $1,965,000

Sold on: July 24

Days on market in this listing: 14

Listing agent: Shafik Ladha PREC at ReMax Westcoast

Buyers agent: Margaret Song PREC at Macdonald Realty Westmar

The big sell: This split-level home resides on a lot size in excess of 9,200 square feet in Richmond’s Garden City district. Built in 1976, it features four bedrooms on the upper floor and one ensuited bedroom on the ground floor alongside the main living space, a media room and an open den. The house was fully updated inside and out with a permitted expansion added in 1994 that included a wok kitchen, a south-facing breakfast nook, and a spacious family room. The ground floor features vaulted ceilings with skylights and a floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace in the living room, a formal dining area next to the well-equipped kitchen, and an enclosed 200-square-foot sunroom that leads out to the landscaped south-facing backyard complete with a water fountain surrounded by a rockery. There is also an integrated double garage to the front of the property with additional driveway parking.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

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The second saddest seasonal take-down, after the Christmas tree, is packing away the patio furniture. It slaps you with the cold, clear reality that summer is over and winter weather is just around the corner.

But you’ll be even sadder next summer if you discover your outdoor furniture didn’t survive the elements. To ensure those tables, chairs, loungers and umbrellas are protected while in hibernation, it’s important to store them properly. After all, summer is only nine months away.

What to leave out

Rain, snow, ice and freezing temperatures — and the inevitable freeze-thaw cycles — can wreak havoc on your precious patio set, causing wood to crack, metal to rust, plastic to warp and fabrics to stiffen. So before nighttime temps dip below freezing, have a plan to safeguard your set from the worst-case scenarios.

Jerry Schmidt, owner of Vancouver Sofa & Patio in Richmond, says some outdoor furniture can withstand cold, rain and snow better than others, especially if they’re on a covered deck or porch. Those include items that are made with recycled plastic, such as from Canadian manufacturer CR Plastic Products. “It’s the same plastic used for outdoor playground slides, which stay out all year long and doesn’t break down,” he says.

Powder coated aluminum, such as the Vienna or Milano collection from Ratana, will also hold up well outside and won’t rust, he says. “If you do get rust on your set, lightly sand it down and use an enamel paint (spray paint) to cover the rusted areas.” Some experts suggest applying a coating of wax for extra protection.

Other materials that can withstand rain and snow include high-density polyethylene, high-quality synthetic resin wicker with aluminum frames, and treated teak, although it’s ideal to use covers or bring it inside to extend its lifespan.

Steel and wrought iron are highly durable but susceptible to corrosion, so it’s advisable to keep them well covered if leaving them outside in cold weather.

Schmidt advises brushing any accumulated snow off cushioned furniture because the weight may cause the seat to sag, depending on the material. In fact, some experts recommend placing a bucket or something similar under a cover or tarp to create a peak so water or snow can slide off. Avoid laying plastic tarps directly on furniture, though, since it traps moisture which can lead to mold. It’s also a good idea to leave a couple of inches of space between the bottom of the cover and the ground to allow for airflow and prevent moisture build-up.

What to leave in

Furniture that should be brought in from the cold include anything upholstered, as well as rugs, umbrellas, pillows and cushions. “If you have the (indoor) space, they will last longer and be in better shape,” says Schmidt. “Outside, you risk rodents getting in there and making quite the mess of your beautiful set.”

Schmidt recommends bringing your cushions inside to keep them completely dry. He says a high-quality fabric, such as Sunbrella, will help prevent mold and mildew. You may still want to store pillows and cushions separately in breathable bags or plastic bins with lids.

Other items worth storing inside include natural wicker, which absorbs moisture; stone and glass tabletops, which can crack; wooden furniture, which can absorb moisture and is vulnerable to fluctuating temperatures causing it to crack and split; and glass fiber reinforced concrete, which is porous and can crack.

Stuart Ilott, president of Patio Gurus and Wizard Screens & Shades in Burnaby, recommends storing outdoor umbrellas indoors. “Make sure the canopy is completely dry before closing it, remove the umbrella from its base and, if possible, store it somewhere dry and protected. Avoid storing it while damp, as moisture left between the folded layers can lead to mildew and fabric deterioration.”

Ideal storage spaces include a clean shed, basement or heated storage unit (especially for wood, wicker and fabrics) to protect against freezing temperatures. Weatherproof deck boxes, made of plastic, resin or suitable wood, are also good for storing accessories like small cushions or pillows. Try to keep your boxes under overhead shelters like eaves or roof overhangs for extra protection against driving rain, heavy snow, and ice.

Schmidt says if you don’t have the indoor space, “Get a good set of weather covers and the furniture should be fine.” A good set, he says, includes Ecoloom by Ratana, as well as Duck covers, which hold up well in B.C.’s wet climate.

Ilott says, “When choosing a furniture cover, look for one that is water-resistant, breathable and properly fitted. The goal is to keep rain and moisture off while still allowing air to circulate. A cover that traps condensation underneath can create its own problems over the winter. It’s also a good idea to check on covered furniture occasionally and remove the cover on a dry day to allow everything to air out.”

Also, look for tie-downs, elastic hems or buckles to avoid it being blown away in the wind.

And don’t forget your grill and fire pit, which will also benefit from custom covers.

Wash and dry

Before covering or storing your deck set, make sure it’s clean and completely dry. “If dirt, pet hair or other organic material is in the frame or cushions, that’s where mold and mildew will grow,” says Schmidt. “Even if your set is resistant to this, the dirt will allow it to start growing.”

Most experts recommend a soft cloth and simple solution of mild dish soap and water to clean metal and plastic frames, a brush to reach crevices on wicker, vacuum and/or soft bristled brush to remove dirt, debris and leaves from fabric and cushions. Rinse soap residue and dry thoroughly.

“For wood furniture, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for cleaning and treatment, as different types of wood require different care,” says Ilott.

Schmidt also advises you periodically check your stored outdoor furniture for any signs of mold or pest infestation. “The earlier you discover a problem, the quicker you can deal with it and save your furniture.”

Some experts recommend you store your outdoor furniture raised on blocks, especially on concrete floors, which can draw moisture up, damaging legs and frames, particularly wood.

If leaving it outside covered, keep your furniture right side up, since storing tables and chairs upside down can allow water to seep into drain holes and freeze, which can damage aluminum.

And be careful stacking aluminum so it doesn’t scratch.

Before you stash everything away, this is also a good time to tighten any loose bolts or screws, sand and repaint any rusted areas, and apply sealant to wood furniture to prevent moisture seeping in.

“The general rule is simple: clean it, dry it and protect it before the wet weather arrives,” says Ilott. “A little preparation in the fall can go a long way toward keeping outdoor furniture looking good and ready to use when spring arrives.”

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A peace lily parked in the same corner it occupied all summer is probably getting less light than it did in August. October is the month to adjust for that, along with a few other small things.

Houseplant trouble in winter often gets blamed on the furnace. But in October, the bigger culprit is usually the light. Days are shorter now, and the sun sits lower, so a corner that seemed plenty bright in July can dim without anyone noticing. Growth slows down, and the potting mix stays wet longer after each watering.

Good peace lily care this month is mostly about adjusting where the plant sits, plus a bit of cleanup below the soil line. September was all about easing off the water and giving the last feeding of the year. October picks up from there. The jobs are small, and one of them is really just paying attention. You can do them in any order – though flushing the pot is better done earlier in the month.

1. Move It Closer to the Light

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum spp.) are often chosen for their ability to tolerate low light, and that part of their reputation holds up fine. But low light is something they survive – it is not a desirable growing situation. A plant kept too dark over winter tends to put out smaller leaves on long, floppy stems. An east-facing window that worked all summer might need trading for a south-facing one now.

Scorch is much less of a risk under October sun than in midsummer. Even so, 3 feet (1 m) back from a bright south-facing window is the safer spot. Turn the pot a quarter every week or two. Otherwise, it leans.

A peace lily without flowers this month isn't a problem, either. Most tend to bloom sometime between winter and late summer.

2. Keep the Leaves off Cold Glass

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Black leaf tips after a cold snap? That's often a chilling injury, not a disease. It usually starts at the tips and edges of older leaves and creeps inward from there. Growth can slow at 50°F (10°C) or below, before anything shows at all. A leaf pressed to a windowpane on a 40°F (4°C) night could get much colder than the room.

Pull the pot a few inches back from the glass and keep it away from exterior doors that let in a blast every time someone walks through. Heating vents are no better. I like to check the temperature of my windowsills using the TempPro TP50 digital thermometer, available on Amazon. It records highs and lows, so if you place it next to the pot for a night, it will show just how cold that windowsill gets.

3. Flush the Pot, Then Put the Fertilizer Away

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That crusty white ring on the soil, or along the pot rim, is usually mineral salt. Fertilizer leaves it behind. Hard tap water does too, once the moisture evaporates. Peace lilies aren't salt-tolerant, so brown, crispy leaf tips are often the first sign of buildup.

Scrape off the crust first, taking no more than about ¼ inch (6 mm) of potting mix with it. Then set the pot in a sink or tub and pour water through slowly until roughly twice the pot's volume has drained out the bottom. For a 6-inch (15 cm) pot, that's about 10 cups (2.4L).

Flush your peace lily pot early in the fall – or at least before the heat comes on for good – so the mix has time to dry. After that, don't feed again until new growth shows up in spring. Water only when the potting mix feels dry.

If you're not sure when to water peace lilies or plants in general, then I recommend getting a moisture meter like the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon, which also checks temperature, light levels, and soil pH.

4. Keep an Eye Out for Fungus Gnats

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Tiny dark flies drifting up off the pot are most likely fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.), not fruit flies. Adults are mostly a nuisance. Their larvae live in the top inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of damp potting mix and feed on organic matter, sometimes on fine roots as well. Cooler rooms keep the mix wetter for longer. Gnats like that.

A dry top inch (2.5cm) between waterings goes a long way toward breaking the cycle. Pick up a pack of Expert Gardener Plant Insect Sticky Traps from Walmart, and tuck one in at the edge of every plant pot. This helps control them and gives a rough count of the adults.

Drier soil and bottom watering are the best long-term cure for fungus gnats. You can use any plastic tray, but I like this Ebristar bottom watering tray from Amazon as you can adjust the height easily.

To check for fungus gnat larvae, a little trick is to press a ¼-inch (6 mm) slice of raw potato into the potting mix and look underneath after a day or two.

5. Add a Grow Light for Darker Rooms

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Not every home has a south-facing window to spare. Supplemental light can make up the difference, and foliage plants often do well with 12 to 16 hours of light a day through the darker months. It's pretty easy to set up these days.

A grow light, like this Sansi pot-clip LED grow light on Amazon, clips onto the rim and has a timer that shuts it off after 12 hours. Start it a little farther from the leaves than seems necessary. If new growth stays small after a few weeks, ease it closer. Pale, washed-out leaves usually mean it's gone too far the other way.

October Peace Lily Esssentials

Expert Gardener Plant Insect Sticky Traps, 12 Pack

Yamron 4-In-1 Soil Moisture Meter

Sansi Pot Clip-On Plant Light

By November, a peace lily set up this way mostly just needs a glance now and then. The next real push tends to come in late winter – fresh leaves first, and with some luck, a white spathe or two not long after.

A Christmas cactus dropping its leaves in October is a common problem, but it’s easily fixed as long as you act quickly. Do nothing, however, and you’ll not only miss out on this winter’s blooms but your plant may be at real risk of collapse and death. Dropped leaf segments are a strong signal that your Christmas cactus is in distress and needs your help, so great work getting here to Garden ER where you'll find straightforward solutions to treat this season’s biggest planty problems.

So, if you're wondering what to do if your Christmas cactus drops a leaf, you're in the right place. Your Schlumbergera x buckleyii is very sensitive to environmental changes and it’s highly likely there’s been a recent shift, whether that’s the plant being moved indoors after a summer holiday on the patio, or simply the central heating being switched on.

But don’t fret. Once you’ve decided which of the five causes is behind the leaf drop, and take swift action, the prognosis for your houseplant is excellent. You may even still be able to trick your Christmas cactus into flowering for the holiday season. Come on in to Garden ER and let’s diagnose and treat your Christmas cactus.

Triage: How Many Leaves Has Your Christmas Cactus Dropped?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Christmas cactus do often drop a segment, or pad, when there’s a change of season. If your plant has only dropped three or fewer pads in the space of the last week, it’s likely suffering from minor shock after a change in its environment, and the basic nursing outlined below in addition to essential Christmas cactus care will quickly restore it to health.

However, if you’ve ignored these early warnings and your houseplant is now dropping four or more segments in a week, or losing multi-segmented branches, it’s likely in severe shock and will require intensive care if it’s to recover. Leave a Christmas cactus to fend for itself in this condition and it’ll likely be dead within a fortnight.

Diagnosis: What’s Caused Your Houseplant to Drop its Leaves?

Sacrificing leaf segments is usually caused by environmental stress following a change, so it’s vital to work out what's troubling your houseplant so you can remove that trigger. That's easily done by examining the lost leaf pads.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)1. Do the Dropped Segments Look Green and Healthy?

Any change in its living space can cause a sensitive Christmas cactus to drop a pad or two, but the plant should quickly recover. If the plant has moved from outdoors to indoors, that’s likely the cause, but there may be other changes associated with the move – for example, a change in watering routine – so it’s important to check out other possible causes too.

2. Do the Segments Feel Crispy and Brittle?

Your plant is likely dehydrated and the probable cause is that the central heating has come on, and your plant is sitting near to a radiator or heater vent. Try to bend the dropped pad and it will likely snap. Segments may be a paler green, or becoming edged in a maroon tone is another sign that points to heat stress.

3. Are the Segments Limp But Still Green?

Even if your Christmas cactus is positioned well away from heat sources, the heating coming on may be drying out the air, causing this humidity-loving plant to struggle, and this is another common problem often seen in October.

4. Are the Segments Limp But Wrinkled and Leathery?

Your plant is dehydrated, and the cause is likely severe underwatering. Christmas cactus evolved to grow in rainforests, not dry deserts, so need regular watering.

5. Do the Segments Feel Plump and Mushy?

If pads feel soft and mushy when squeezed, they’re likely full of water because the plant has been overwatered. This may be because you’ve watered your Christmas cactus too often – and this is easy to do in October as the plant requires less water as the days start to shorten – or it’s been left outside for too long once seasonal rainfall has increased. Leaves are also likely to be a slightly see-through yellow or sickly green tone if overwatering is the cause.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Treatment: How to Help a Cactus That’s Dropping Leaves

It's vital to remove the cause before fixing the symptoms by giving your Christmas cactus the care it needs.

If Heat or Drought Stress is the Cause

Place the plant in a spot where the temperature sits fairly consistently around 60-70°F (a cheap indoor thermometer like this from Amazon makes it easy), in bright indirect sunlight and away from hot blasts or cold draughts. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole and water your Christmas cactus only – but regularly – when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Using a moisture meter such as this long-probe soil meter from Amazon removes any guesswork.

If you suspect a lack of humidity is a problem – and it will become a problem for you, too, as this is the prime reason Christmas cactus drop their flower buds – it’s simple to fix. Simply stand the pot on a pebble tray such as this Bonsai pebble tray such as this from Lowe’s, or make your own with a plant saucer and pea gravel pebbles such as this Landscape Rock from The Home Depot. It’s vital that the pot base sits on the pebbles and not in the water, so the roots don’t rot. You’re simply using the water to humidify the air as it evaporates.

If Over-Watering is the Cause

If you’ve diagnosed your Christmas cactus with overwatering, treatment is more intense, but if the base is still green and firm, there’s still hope.

Remove the plant from its pot and if there’s a sour smell, use a brush to remove most of the soggy soil, and scissors to cut off any black roots. Repot into a pot with drainage holes (wash the pot well if you’re reusing) with an indoor potting mix such as Back to the Roots Indoor Potting Mix, available from Amazon, with a handful or orchid bark like this from Amazon mixed in for good measure.

If the soil still smells sweet and the roots aren’t dark or slimy, all you need do is stand the cactus in its inner plastic pot on an old towel in an evenly warm room with good airflow to let the soil dry out. Then follow the essential care tips outlined above.

If the base of your Christmas cactus has turned a dark tone and feels mushy, then your plant is a goner. May we offer our condolences.

Patient Notes

Don’t throw away healthy dropped segments as you can easily use them to propagate free Christmas cactus plants by pushing the base ends into a cactus potting mix such as Black Gold Succulent & Cactus Potting Mix, available from Walmart.

(Image credit: Getty Images)More Garden ER Help

Every week, the Garden ER series brings you simple solutions to this season's most pressing problems, for happy and healthy plants without any hassle.

Brown Lawn Patches?

Chafer grubs have devastated drought-stressed lawns this year but are easily treated if catch this crucial fall window.

Peace Lily Going Brown?

Work out what your peace lily needs to recover if spathes develop brown patches or look dry and crispy around the edges.

Leaves Turning White?

Here's everything you need to know to prevent common fungal disease, powdery mildew, starving your plants of nutrients.

There's something about an owl that makes it feel a little more mysterious than almost any other bird. Maybe it's those enormous eyes, the uncanny ability to fly almost completely silently, or simply the fact that while most of us are settling down for the evening, these fascinating birds are only just getting started.

From tiny owls that can fit comfortably into the palm of your hand to formidable predators capable of taking down surprisingly large prey, there is an incredible amount of variety hidden beneath that familiar silhouette.

And after looking at the bird of prey associated with each birth month, I couldn't resist taking a closer look at owls in particular...

All 12 Birth Month Owls

Now, we’re already familiar with the idea of a birth month bird, birth month animal, and birth month bug (oh yes, I'm deadly serious!), but each species of owl has its own distinctive habits, characteristics, and quirks, making these beautiful raptors ideal for matching up with our personalities.

You might be independent like a snowy owl, quietly observant like a barn owl, or considerably more formidable than your small stature suggests, like a northern pygmy owl.

So, turn down the lights, embrace your nocturnal side, and grab yourself a motion-activated wildlife camera with night vision, like the GardePro on Amazon. It's time to find out which owl matches your birth month...

January – Great Horned Owl

(Image credit: pchoui/Getty Images)

If you're a January baby, you're the great horned owl: confident, formidable and not particularly interested in being told what to do. There's a certain authority to this particular bird that makes it a fitting match for the first month of the year; after all, it's a powerful and adaptable predator, recognizable by its prominent ear tufts and deep hooting call.

Like this owl, you probably aren't afraid to take up space. You're protective of the people and things you care about, you're capable of handling difficult situations, and when you have decided what you want, good luck talking you out of it!

Now, great horned owls occupy a remarkably wide range of habitats across the US, including woodlands, open country and areas close to people. What better reason, then, to buy yourself an Owl House from Amazon?

February – Snowy Owl

(Image credit: FotoRequest/Getty Images)

February belongs to the Snowy Owl, which feels appropriate for a bird of prey that looks as though it was designed specifically for winter.

If you're a February baby, you're independent, resilient and perhaps a little more comfortable doing your own thing than following the crowd. Snowy Owls are famously associated with Arctic environments, and their striking white plumage provides camouflage in snowy surroundings.

You're also likely to be adaptable when circumstances demand it. Snowy Owls don't simply stay put in the far north all year, and some travel considerable distances south during winter.

In other words, you're perfectly capable of changing course when you need to.

Shop Owl Boxes:

JCs Wildlife Recycled Poly Lumber Barred Owl Nesting Box

If you’re serious about giving owls a durable, long‑lasting home, this heavy‑duty barn owl nest box is built to last.

AnNowshua Ling Owl Houses for Outdoors

A beautiful mix of form and function, this wooden owl house is ideal for attracting a range of wild owls, garden wildlife, and backyard biodiversity.

BFAZKXY Owl Houses for Outdoors

If you’re looking for a versatile owl box that can accommodate multiple species, this model is a solid mid‑range choice for your garden or backyard habitat.

March – Eastern Screech Owl

(Image credit: Larry Keller, Lititz Pa./Getty Images)

March babies get the eastern screech owl, which means their birth month owl is small, adaptable and considerably more resourceful than its size might suggest. You may not always be the loudest person in the room, but that doesn't mean you're not paying attention. Eastern Screech-Owls are remarkably adaptable birds that can live in woodland, farmland and suburban environments, provided suitable habitat is available.

That makes them a fitting match for anyone who tends to make the best of whatever situation they find themselves in. Because, much like your feathered friend, you're practical, observant and probably rather good at finding solutions that other people overlook.

April – Burrowing Owl

(Image credit: Troy Harrison/Getty Images)

April belongs to one of the more unusual members of the owl family: the burrowing owl. Unlike many owls that spend their days tucked away in trees, burrowing owls are strongly associated with open country and, as their name suggests, underground burrows. They have an unusually long-legged appearance and an alert, almost comically expressive look.

If you're an April baby, you're probably a little unconventional yourself. You're curious, energetic and happy to do things your own way. And I am very confident in suggesting, too, that you might also be the person who sees an opportunity where everyone else sees a problem. Sound familiar? I bet it does!

May – Barn Owl

(Image credit: Alan Walker/Getty Images)

One of the most iconic birds of all time (hey, this little beauty shared a screen with David Bowie in Labyrinth!), May's birth month owl is the graceful, observant, and quietly intuitive barn owl.

With their pale, heart-shaped faces and almost ghostly appearance, barn owls are among the most instantly recognizable owls in the US. They're also superb nocturnal hunters, using their exceptional hearing to locate prey even when visibility is poor.

If this is your birth month owl, you may be someone who notices things other people miss. You don't necessarily need to be the center of attention; you'd rather watch, listen, and work things out for yourself. And when you do finally make your move, it's usually with considerably more precision than anyone expected.

Shop Plants For A Nocturnal Paradise:

Heart Light

Nature Hills Nursery Jack Frost Brunnera

These perennials promise a lifetime of low-maintenance illumination in the shade, topped off with sky-blue spring blossoms deer ignore.

The Night-Blooming Beauty

Daisy Ship Night Blooming Jasmine

Night-blooming jasmine does exactly what it says on the tin; releases a rich, sweet scent after sunset, filling your garden or patio with its signature tropical aroma.

Woodland Shimmer

Daylily Nursery Japanese Painted Ferns for Shade

A little treat for your yard’s dampest corners, this robust fern showcases an award-winning tapestry of metallic silver, dusty blue, and fading purple red ribs.

June – Great Gray Owl

(Image credit: Gannet77/Getty Images)

The great gray owl is one of the largest-looking owls in North America, making it a pretty spectacular birth month owl to call your own. If you're a June baby, you're thoughtful, patient and perhaps slightly mysterious. Great gray owls have an imposing appearance, but much of that apparent size comes from their exceptionally thick plumage rather than sheer body mass.

You're probably the type who doesn't rush into things. You'd rather observe, gather information and decide when the time is right. And while people might underestimate you because you're quiet, there's considerably more going on beneath the surface.

July – Saw Whet Owl

(Image credit: Scott Suriano/Getty Images)

If you're born in July, your birth month owl is one of North America's smallest owls: the saw whet owl. Don't let the diminutive size fool you, though, for these little owls are capable predators, and they're far more interesting than their modest stature might suggest.

If you're a July baby, you're curious, private and quietly determined. You might prefer a small circle of close friends to a room full of strangers, but once something captures your attention, you're not easily distracted.

You're also probably the person who gets underestimated exactly once.

Want to welcome more birds of prey to your yard? Keep the area as natural and inviting as possible, then, with plants like these:

Northern Sea Oats Grass

Graceful, airy seed heads provide shelter and vertical structure.

Crimson Comet Buttonbush - #3 Container

Round clusters of white blooms in wetlands or moist areas attract insects and other critters.

Shenandoah Switch Grass

Shenandoah Switch Grass adds graceful movement and deep red tips that catch the evening light.

August – Western Screech Owl

(Image credit: Scott Suriano/Getty Images)

August belongs to the western screech owl, which means that you (much like your feathered friend here) are adaptable, self-reliant and considerably less conspicuous than you deserve to be.

These small owls can make use of a surprisingly broad range of habitats, including woodland, desert and suburban environments in parts of the western US. And this makes them a good match for August babies, who are likely to be practical and independent without feeling the need to advertise it.

You're good at making yourself comfortable wherever you happen to land, and you probably don't need much fuss to get on with things. All hail that kind of energy, quite frankly!

September – Short Eared Owl

(Image credit: Claire Hogg/Getty Images)

September's birth month owl is one that's famed for being alert, adventurous and happiest when it has room to move. I'm talking, of course, about the short-eared owl!

Unlike many owls that spend much of their time hunting from wooded habitats, short-eared owls are strongly associated with open country. They're also unusual among owls for often being active around dusk and dawn, rather than exclusively under cover of darkness.

If you're a September baby, you're probably observant but restless in the best possible way. You like having options, you notice what's happening around you and you're not particularly interested in being boxed in. Which is, yes, one of the world's favorite things about you, so own it!

October – Barred Owl

(Image credit: Scott Suriano/Getty Images)

Halloween month belongs to the barred owl, a particularly fitting match for anyone who likes a little personality with their wildlife.

Barred owls are recognizable by their distinctive brown-and-white barred plumage and rounded heads, but perhaps their most memorable characteristic is their vocalization. Their familiar hooting call has been described in a variety of ways, and they can be surprisingly vocal.

If you're an October baby, you're probably sociable, expressive and not especially afraid to make yourself heard. You may also have a slightly mischievous streak, and, if you're anything like yours truly, very fond of karaoke (even if you're not necessarily the best at it!).

November – Long Eared Owl

(Image credit: DamianKuzdak/Getty Images)

November babies get the long eared owl, which might be the most mysterious member of this list of birth month owls. Why? Well, because long eared owls are slender birds with prominent ear tufts that give them a particularly serious expression. They're also secretive and can be remarkably difficult to spot despite being widespread across parts of North America (which is why it's a good idea to arm yourself with these TSO Polar HD 10x50 Binoculars from Amazonif you want to spy one).

If this is your birth month owl, you're observant, private and probably rather good at keeping a secret. You don't necessarily need everyone to know what you're thinking. In fact, you're quite happy watching from the sidelines until you decide there's a reason to get involved.

December –Northern Pygmy Owl

(Image credit: Andyworks/Getty Images)

Last but not least, December belongs to the northern pygmy owl, which means you likely have one of the biggest personalities on this list (despite being one of its smallest owls).

Now, don't be fooled; northern pygmy owls are tiny, but they are still formidable predators. They're active during the day more often than many other owl species and can take prey surprisingly large relative to their own size.

That makes them a fitting match for anyone who refuses to let their size, circumstances or other people's expectations dictate what they're capable of. Because, just like December babies, they're bold, energetic and probably more fearless than people initially assume.

Whichever owl you are, take care that the very next time you're outside after dark, you listen carefully. You may not always see an owl (they're rather good at avoiding that) but there's always the possibility that one is watching from somewhere nearby.

And if it happens to be the owl associated with your birth month? Well, I think that's a pretty good sign for the year ahead, personally...

As a thrifty gardener, I’m always looking for free alternatives to more expensive tools and gadgets. One of my favorite low-cost swaps is a plastic storage tote. You probably have a few extras lying around your basement or garage. And even if you’ve lost the lids or the totes have cracks in them, you can still use them as alternatives for several gardening products that can be quite costly.

I always save old totes that I'm no longer using to store clothes, extra bedding, or holiday decorations inside anymore. There are few ways to recycle these items in the garden that require minimal modifications. They’re low-cost, easily available, and you can put them to use in your garden in just a few minutes.

In this latest installment of our Dirt Cheap Gardening series, I’ll show you my favorite ways to give a plastic storage tote a second life in your garden and save money in the process.

More Dirt Cheap Gardening Tips

• 4 Clever Ways to Recycle To-Go Boxes in Your Garden
• Why Smart Gardeners Are Saving Cardboard Boxes
• 4 Reasons Why Always Save Old Toilet Paper Rolls

1. Mini Greenhouse

(Image credit: Jonas Rönnbro / Getty Images)

This is my favorite way to use a plastic storage tote in the garden. It requires no modifications to the tote at all and costs nothing! The only caveat is that you need a clear plastic storage bin, like this one from Walmart. Obviously, a colored tote will not be able to let light through to reach your plants.

To turn a plastic tote into a mini greenhouse, all you have to do is flip the tote upside down and vent it. Vent your tote by placing a brick or rock under one side of it to allow airflow and let heat escape. Close it up at night to protect tender plants from freezing temperatures and reopen again in the morning. You can either use the lid as a base to hold your seedlings or small, tender plants or if you’ve lost track of the lid, you can simply place the tote directly on the ground.

A lid can come in handy when using your mini greenhouse for seed starting. It can act as a sort of water catch tray that waters your delicate seedlings from the bottom as an alternative to overhead watering. Just pour water into the lid and let the plants soak it up through the drainage holes in the bottom of their containers.

Make sure to vent your plastic storage tote greenhouse, so you don’t accidentally fry your plants inside. I had this happen one morning when I slept in late and forgot to crack open the lid.

By 10am, the sun was blazing down on my greenhouse and my plants were literally smoking when I opened the tote. Luckily, my plants recouped quickly and that was the best year I’ve ever had in my vegetable garden – I think partially thanks to the early start I was able to get with my plastic storage bin greenhouse.

Once your seedlings are big enough to plant outside in the spring, the tote makes it easy to carry them out to the garden.

2. Seed Starting Tray

(Image credit: Xiuxia Huang / Getty Images)

If you have some smaller plastic storage bins like these ones from Target lying around, they make wonderful seed starting trays. This DIY seed starting tray idea takes a little more work than the greenhouse idea, but it only takes a minute to do.

Use a drill or a hot metal skewer to make several drainage holes in the bottom of your tote. How many holes you need to make depends on the size of your tote, but aim for at least a handful per square foot of area. Be careful when making the holes not to poke yourself as the tool goes through the plastic. Trying to make a hole with just a knife or scissors is not a good idea because it’s easier to hurt yourself that way and you’re more likely to crack the brittle plastic bottom of the tote.

Once you’ve made your holes, it’s time to fill your new seed starting tray with a good seed starting mix – I always have good results with this mix from Miracle-Gro. Then plant your seeds, water, and watch them grow. If you have a lid, that’s definitely a bonus for this project. Place the lid under the tote to catch any water that leaks out when watering your seedlings. Or you can try bottom watering using the lid.

If you have another plastic tote of the same or larger size as the one you turned into a seed starting tray, you can place that over the top to create a mini greenhouse to help seedlings stay warm on a drafty windowsill or outside in the late winter to early spring months.

3. Mini Raised Bed

(Image credit: Xiuxia Huang / Getty Images)

If you can plant seeds in a small plastic tote, then you can certainly grow bigger plants in a large plastic tote like this one from Home Depot. Use a drill to make holes in the bottom of your tote to turn it into a small DIY raised bed that can fit on almost any porch, patio, balcony, or backyard.

For this project, you don’t need a clear tote – any color will do – and you don’t need a lid either. Simply make your drainage holes, fill the tote with your preferred raised bed potting mix. I like to use a mix of potting soil and organic compost, which you can get at the Home Depot. Then all you have to do is plant!

Plastic totes are great for growing a variety of vegetables. Potatoes do very well in these containers! Just make sure to use a large enough tote to allow for good root growth. Your tote should be at least 15 inches (28 cm) or so to let plants sink their roots deep into the soil.

Plastic totes aren’t as durable as metal or wooden raised beds, so they will likely only last a few years outside in the sun. But they’re a great alternative for gardeners who are short on cash and space.

Terracotta pots may look beautiful but many popular plants struggle to grow in the conditions they create, and would be far happier in a cheap plastic planter. Traditional unglazed terracotta pots are made from porous clay, which constantly wicks moisture from the soil in dry weather. This 360° drainage is a distinct advantage for some plants that love dry conditions, but it can sound a death knell for others.

So, if you’re a fan of container gardening and growing plants in terracotta pots, it’s best you check. Some of the best perennial plants for patio pots loathe growing within clay walls, however much you tend to them, so it’s highly likely one’s struggling in your yard right now. There are plenty of plants that flourish in terracotta pots, though, so an afternoon spent pot-swapping could transform how your garden fares.

I’ve compiled a list of the top plants you should never, ever plant in a terracotta pot. Rehome these much-loved garden plants into glazed ceramic, fiberstone, resin or plastic planters instead, and they’ll not only thrive in the more consistent moisture that's locked into soil for lush foliage and longer-lasting flowers, but you’ll cut your container watering time to enjoy a more low-maintenance yard to boot.

1. Hydrangea

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Hydrangeas are thirsty plants with a high water requirement, so should never be planted in a terracotta container. Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf or mophead hydrangea) with its large leaves that create a huge surface area for water to evaporate from is the most moisture-hungry of the lot, so this will really fail to flourish in a terracotta pot. And if a hydrangea’s soil keeps drying out while it’s forming its flowerbuds, it may not bloom at all.

Hydrangeas also have surprisingly shallow root systems – which is why such a big shrub can be successfully grown in the confines of a container in the first place. Because terracotta retains heat from the sun, roots can easily become scorched in peak summer heat, adding to the likelihood of crispy leaves, browning blooms and dramatic – and perhaps fatal – flopping.

2. Hostas

(Image credit: Ekaterina Goncharova / Getty Images)

Another favourite for patio pots that loves consistently damp soil and rapidly dries out because of the large surface area of leaves, hostas shouldn’t be grown in terracotta planters. If you are, now you know why the leaves always have crispy brown margins, despite your regular watering routine.

3. Soft-Leaved Ferns

(Image credit: Tatiana Terekhina / Getty Images)

Many ferns have evolved to grow on moist rainforest floors or shady streambanks, so naturally appreciate damp soil. As a rule of thumb, if a fern has soft, thin or lacy leaves, it shouldn’t be grown in an unglazed terracotta pot – which makes clay containers an absolute no-no for maidenhair, ostrich and Boston ferns.

Ferns with thick, glossy leaves are far better able to tolerate drier conditions – and some actively appreciate life in a terracotta pot. Bird’s nest fern evolved to live high in the tree canopy so loves the airflow of a breathable terracotta pot, while Hart’s tongue fern needs its sharp drainage because it naturally grows in rocky crevices. So if you have a fern growing in a terracotta pot, take a closer look at its leaves and origin story.

4. Azaleas

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Another reason why some plants fail to flourish in a terracotta pot is because the natural clay creates slightly alkaline conditions. Over time, that can affect the pH levels of soil, which can be a problem for acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. It’ll become a problem for you too, because flowers can be less vibrant if the soil acidity isn’t right.

Clay's porosity can also cause issues for this plant’s shallow root system that quickly dries out in a terracotta pot, causing azalea flowers to fade quickly, shortening the bloom time of this beautiful shrub.

5. Blueberries

(Image credit: Esin Deniz / Getty Images)

Try and grow a blueberry bush in a terracotta pot and you’ll quickly run into trouble. Not only do these acid-loving plants abhor the alkaline conditions that a clay container nurtures, but they adore consistent moisture. And as if that wasn’t enough of an issue… because you’ll find yourself watering your blueberry plant more because of the quick-drying soil, the typically alkaline tap water will raise that soil pH some more. At the very least, the plant will produce little fruit, but death is also a very possible scenario.

6. Parsley

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Parsley is a Mediterranean herb so loves life in a terracotta pot, right? Wrong! This flavorful herb may hail from warm climes but it needs consistently damp soil and prefers to have cool roots, quite the opposite of what a clay container provides. And a parsley plant that regularly dries out because soil moisture is being wicked away by its pot’s terracotta walls will have tougher, yellowing stems with a distinctly bitter-tasting edge. Yes, that’s the reason why! This is one of the commonest problems with terracotta pots, as most herbs do well in a clay container – but parsley isn't one of them.

7. Cardinal Flowers

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A big patio planter of cardinal flowers that let's you watch pollinators while you sip a well-earned glass of something cold is a joy – but not if that pot is made of clay. Lobelia cardinalis naturally lives in bogs and on streambeds, so it requires consistently damp soil to thrive. A terracotta pot provides the opposite, and in this harsh environment those dramatic flower spikes will be stunted and buds may turn brown and drop before opening.

8. Canna Lilies

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

In most zones, it’s usual to grow these tender tropical beauties in pots so they’re easily moved into a garage or greenhouse for the winter. And few plants can bring such dramatic blooms and foliage in a container as a canna lily. However, that pot should never be a terracotta one.

Canna lilies use huge quantities of water in peak summer, evaporating moisture from their enormous leaves to keep cool and avoid scorching as well as harnessing heaps of H20 to facilitate their incredibly fast growth. These bold plants also rely on water pressure to keep their stems upright. In an unglazed terracotta pot where moisture is continually lost through the walls, these vital tasks are simply not possible. So if you’ve been wondering why your canna lilies keep wilting, now you know.

What Pots to Use Instead of Terracotta

If you love the look of terracotta – and who doesn’t adore this timeless classic – you have plenty of options to retain the style but keep your plants far healthier and happier. Simply slotting a plastic planter inside the terracotta pot works well, but do choose those meant for professional use such as these nursery pots from Amazon, both for their durability and extra drainage holes, .

There are lots of terracotta-look materials used to make planters, too. These all mimic the appearance of terracotta but are far less porous so lock moisture into the soil.

Resin

Grosfillex Expert 20" Terrain Resin Planter

Resin is typically formed from a synthetic polymer such as polyethylene which comes in powdered form, so it’s easy to mix in color pigments to do a pretty good job of mimicking the real thing. Look for a resin planter which has a UV stabilizer in the mix so its lovely clay tones don’t fade in the sun. Resin walls are fully non-porous so these containers are a good choice for plants that like permanently damp soil, but do drill a few extra drainage holes in the base.

Plastic

Bloem Terra Plastic 16" Planter

If you’re on a budget, plastic planters in a terracotta tone are a great option. A rolled lip adds considerable strength to the design and, along with the tapering sides, helps it to pass for the real thing. Take a scouring pad to the plastic to lightly scuff a few areas that would naturally show signs of wear for a more aged terracotta look. Plastic isn’t at all breathable so while plants that like consistent moisture will thrive, rotting roots is a problem for those that need good drainage.

Magnesium Oxide

Greens Word 16.5" Magnesium Oxide Urn Planter

Magnesium oxide is a specialized type of concrete composite that’s easily mixed with other components to mimic natural materials such as terracotta and is very durable. This material is slightly porous so it gives roots a healthier environment than plastic while still locking in lots of moisture. For plants like hydrangeas which need good drainage alongside plenty of water, and acid-loving plants that dislike the alkalinity of terracotta, magnesium oxide are the best option. You’ll also find these listed as MgO and MGO cement or concrete planters.

What's Your USDA Zone?I'm using terracotta pots in a hot, dry USDA zone.

If you garden in southern and western zones 8-11, it’s not just terracotta’s rapid evaporation that can be an issue, but that clay retains heat. In peak summer, this can lead to soil heating that scorches roots.

I'm using terracotta pots in a cold, wet USDA zone.

If you live in northern zones 3-6, it’s good to know that porous terracotta absorbs water, which expands when frozen and can cause pots to crack or shatter. Ensure you use high-fired, frost-proof terracotta.

If you've always wondered why a patio plant isn't flourishing, or what's best to plant in a terracotta pot, now you know. Repot plants into a more suitable home and you can look forward to abundant flowers and lush foliage for years to come.

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

I like to think of pruning plants as giving them cute haircuts, but this garden task is so much more than a cosmetic adjustment. Pruning is an essential step to keep landscape plants healthy and vital – and timing is a key element. Trimming plants and trees at the wrong time can be far worse than not pruning at all.

The complication here is that there is no one good time for pruning all the plants in your garden. Different plants have different schedules. There are some plants to prune in October, but there are other plants that should definitely not be pruned this month. Knowing which ones are which will help you get your October fall pruning chores accomplished properly.

So what plants should you never prune in October? Here are the landscape favorites to leave alone this month or else you risk ruing your winter display and next year's blooms.

Never Prune These Plants in October

Any time a shrub has a broken or diseased branch it's good to cut back that dead or damaged wood. But otherwise, keep your hand pruners far from these landscape plants in October. This is not a good time for regular pruning of these species.

1. Lilac

(Image credit: Shedu / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Syringa vulgaris

Hardiness

Zones 3-7

With their gorgeous, heavily fragranced blossoms, lilacs seem like they might need trips to the plant spa every few weeks. But no, they are among the most carefree of flowering shrubs. Planted in a sunny area in well-draining soil, they will delight you with lavender, pink, or white blossoms from spring to summer.

Do not even consider giving these garden favorites a haircut in October. Lilacs set buds for the next year’s flowers right after they finish blooming in early summer. The moment to do structural pruning of lilacs is immediately after they finish flowering, usually around June. Every snip in October removes one or more of these new buds, meaning fewer flowers in spring.

But that’s not all. Keep in mind that pruning encourages new growth. New growth that appears in late fall will still be tender when the first freeze arrives, leading to winter dieback. Fresh pruning cuts on wet autumn days lead to risks of fungal infections and rot.

2. Forsythia

(Image credit: Hrabar / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Forsythia spp.

Hardiness

Zones 5-8

Yes, red-breasted robins are harbingers of spring, but they are not alone in this role. One sure sign that spring has sprung is the appearance of brilliant yellow forsythia blossoms, which are often the first flowers to appear. Like most spring flowers, forsythia shrubs bloom on old wood, forming buds for the following year’s blossoms just after the current flowers have faded.

While forsythias profit from annual pruning, this should happen immediately after flowering. Pruning forsythias then makes the shrubs healthier and more vigorous. However, pruning these garden workhorses in October (or any time from midsummer to winter) will drastically reduce their blossoms the next spring. In addition, tender new growth may freeze, stressing the shrub.

3. Pink Muhly Grass

(Image credit: inho Lee / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Muhlenbergia capillaris

Hardiness

Zones 6-10

There are many appealing ornamental grasses out there in commerce and pink muhly grass is among the most popular for landscaping. It catches the eye with its unreal autumn display. Come September, this graceful grass lights up the landscape with massive, cloud-like airy pink seed heads.

Stunning and low-maintenance, pink muhly grass prefers a site with partial sun and dry, well-drained soil. It resists pests, deer, and drought. Pruning in October is really out of the question, since this is when its standing foliage and plumes provide the most spectacular show.

The texture, color, and movement last right into the cold months, offering food and cover for wildlife. The grass’s top growth also protects the crown of the grass from cold temperatures and blocks moisture from pooling.

4. Azalea

(Image credit: krblokhin / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Rhododendron spp.

Hardiness

Zones 3-9 (depending on variety)

Azaleas are immensely popular flowering shrubs that produce brilliant clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers in spring. The lush blossom display on these mounding shrubs seems to float into the garden like a cloud. While some azaleas don’t need any pruning, other azalea varieties require trimming to improve airflow.

If your azaleas need pruning, hop to it right after the spring blooms fade. By October, the buds have set and pruning will simply be cutting off next spring’s blossoms before they have a chance to appear. Fall pruning also boosts tender new growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the first frost.

5. 'Emerald Green' Arborvitae

(Image credit: Mykola Sosiukin / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Thuja occidentalis 'Smaragd'

Hardiness

Zones 3-7

When homeowners think about putting in a privacy hedge, arborvitae is one landscape shrub that comes to mind. 'Emerald Green' arborvitae is one of the most popular. It's a classic evergreen with a naturally narrow shape. That means it works well for lining a property edge or creating a backdrop for flowering shrubs. The attractive green foliage stays dense and attractive all year round.

This easy care shrub doesn’t need much pruning. But if you want to tidy up your arborvitae, do so in late spring or early summer. This is the time to touch up the shape and keep it looking tidy.

Pruning in fall leaves wounds making the plant susceptible to fungal diseases during the wet season. It also stimulates growth at the wrong time. The soft new growth does not have time to toughen up before winter freezes. Not only can these stems be damaged by ice, causing bare spots, but they can snap easily under heavy winter snow or ice loads.

Pruning Essentials

For the plants that do need pruning in fall, make sure you're well-equipped with the essentials before making the cut.

Workpro 7.2v Cordless Grass Shear & Shrubbery Trimmer

This handy handheld hedge trimmer makes cleaning up and shaping small shrubs so easy.

Felco F2 Pruning Shears

These cult-favorite pruners are definitely a splurge, but the holiday season is just around the corner. Add them to your wishlist now!

Fiskars 28” Garden Bypass Loppers

Content Editor Laura loves these affordable loppers for pruning larger shrubs and smaller tree branches.