Organic Gardening News

I hate to admit it, but I’m getting a little jealous of my neighbors’ gardens... and it’s all down to one flower that looks like it’s been having an absolute blast as we veer headfirst into the ‘ber months.

All summer long, I’ve watched them fill up with the usual stars of the season – roses, hydrangeas, lavender, dahlias, and all those other perennial flowers that make a garden look incredible when everything is growing at full speed. My own garden has done its best to keep up, but... well, then fall arrived, and something rather unexpected happened.

Some of those gardens actually started looking better, and as far as I can tell, it’s all down to one flower (a late-season hero, no less) that everyone but me seems to have planted in abundance.

Why This One Flower Is Key to a Beautiful Fall Garden

Yes, it seems as if Japanese anemones are the 'it' flower of the season, as I’ve started noticing them everywhere in my neighborhood. One garden has them spilling over a low wall, another has a whole mass of them towards the back of the border, and another seems to have an almost ridiculous number of flowers swaying above everything else.

Honestly, every time I walk past, I have pretty much the same thought: I really need some of those, whether it's a traditional Honorine Jobert Japanese Anemone, a bright and bold Fantasy™ Red Riding Hood Japanese Anemone, or a sweet and cold-hardy Fall in Love® Sweetly Japanese Anemone.

(Image credit: Steve Taylor ARPS / Alamy)

Part of the appeal of this one flower, I think, is the timing of it all; by the time Japanese anemones are putting on their best display, a lot of the flowers that made the garden feel so abundant in June and July are starting to fade. These, however, seem completely unfazed by the fact that summer is disappearing.

Depending on the variety and growing conditions, they can flower from late summer well into fall, with many continuing into October (depending on your USDA planting zone). So just when the garden might otherwise start looking a little tired, you suddenly have these tall stems covered in fresh flowers.

And when you see them growing in a group, they can make a surprisingly big impact, especially as they can begin flowering in late summer and continue through fall, depending on the cultivar and conditions.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you want to add one flower to your garden that will do its bit for pollinators, the Japanese anemone is a good shout; their open blooms can provide food for bees and other visiting insects, and their late flowering period is particularly useful because there are generally fewer flowers available in the garden as the season progresses.

Honestly, if I’m going to give something valuable garden space, I like the idea that it can earn its keep in more than one way. And a plant that gives me a beautiful display in September and October while also offering something to visiting bees, butterflies, and other critters? That ticks a lot of boxes for me!

Still, it's worth thinking about whether your garden is suited to this flower before you rush to buy one of your own; Japanese anemones generally prefer a sunny or partially shaded position and reasonably fertile soil that doesn’t dry out completely. They can also (fair warning) spread, particularly when they’re happy, and established plants can eventually stage something of a takeover.

(Image credit: Iva Vagnerova/Getty Images)

Now, that can be a very good thing if you have the space and want that abundant effect (part of the reason I keep noticing them in my neighbors’ gardens is that they don’t look like one lonely plant that has been carefully tucked into a gap), but it’s worth thinking about before planting one right next to a delicate little perennial that you’re particularly fond of.

For a long time, I thought of the gardening year as having a fairly obvious hierarchy; spring was exciting because everything was waking up. Summer was the main event, when the garden was overflowing with flowers and everything seemed to be growing at once. Then fall arrived and the whole thing gradually started winding down.

Now, when I walk past my neighbors’ gardens in September or October and see that everyone has one flower covered in blooms, I see a garden having one last really good moment before winter arrives... and yes, I’m jealous. So you'd best believe that I’m going to stop admiring everyone else’s Japanese anemones and finally plant some of my own. I bet I spend all of next fall wondering why I waited so long.

For many of us, the backyard can get abandoned in the weeks after summer – partly down to deteriorating weather, and partly not wanting to be reminded that some of our favorite lovely flowers are starting to fade and disappear. Key crops have been lifted and enjoyed, and there’s a general sense of things winding down, so the hose gets coiled, and the ground is left to sort itself out until March.

But your soil can still be working for you if you take action now. The earth in your yard will not be this warm again until May, and the window closes quietly – so why not make the most of it while you can? Improving soil in fall takes less effort than the same job come spring. Anything you put into the ground now lands while biology can still act on it, rather than sitting on frozen ground waiting for a thaw. These key tasks are all due before the first hard frost, and a couple carry real deadlines.

Getting your soil ready for next season doesn't mean you need to embark on a back-breaking overhaul. Think of it as your backyard’s peaceful recovery hour, with small and easy actions now that can pay off tenfold come spring. By taking just one afternoon session to tuck your beds in properly now, you are laying the groundwork for nutrient boosts, vibrant early blooms, and bountiful harvests when the sunshine returns…

Prepping the Soil For the Big Chill

Whether your garden spent the summer baking under intense drought, handling relentless downpours, or simply feeding hungry crops, late-season soil is often left exhausted, compacted, and depleted. Left bare over winter, heavy rains might leach away remaining minerals, while severe freeze-thaw cycles can strip away topsoil structure. Acting now, while the ground is still warm, helps beneficial soil microbes and earthworms to process new goodness before spring planting begins.

Keep your local hardiness zone in mind as you plan your fall workflow. In northern regions (USDA zones 3-6), it’s critical to move swiftly before the hard freezes lock up the ground. However, southern growers (zones 7-10) have a longer runway with which to make these soil boosts, and the warmer soils will allow cover crops to establish well into late fall.

(Image credit: Malerapaso / Getty Images)

To prime your tired beds ahead of these soil repairs, give the ground a drench with a diluted seaweed formula like Neptune’s Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon. Seaweed is an excellent tonic for weary autumn soil, strengthening microbial life ahead of dormancy. And if your soil needs a quick physical boost, top-dress with a sprinkling of Espoma Natural Mushroom Blend Fertilizer, available from Walmart, which works wonders for exhausted autumn beds.

Essentially, any garden bed that is headed into winter needs a little timely TLC and then it wants leaving alone. Everything here is really one instruction repeated 7 ways: keep something living or something rotting on the surface from now until spring. The beds you have to work on next year will be dark and loose, with worms right up under the surface, if you dress and prepare the ground now with the following steps…

1. Sow a Cover Crop

(Image credit: Wallace Garrison / Alamy)

Cover crops run on a hard clock, making this one of the most urgent fall tasks. Legumes need 6-8 weeks of active growth ahead of a killing frost, while hardy grains will manage with 4-6 weeks. Crimson clover (Trifolium incarnatum) works closely with soil bacteria to fix atmospheric nitrogen directly into the ground. In colder zones, it winter-kills into a manageable mat that easily pulls apart by hand come April. Cereal rye (Secale cereale) is another option if time gets away from you a bit. It germinates in cool soil and continues growing at temperatures that shut down other plants. You can buy Crimson Clover Seeds from Eden Brothers for just a few dollars.

Rake the bed smooth and level, scatter seed at twice the standard drilled rate to guarantee dense growth. Then rake again to bury the seeds a quarter to a half-inch (0.6-1.3 cm) deep. A handheld spreader like the Chapin 8706G Spreader from The Home Depot gives more even coverage than scattering by hand, eliminating patchy gaps where weeds might move in. Water thoroughly, and keep the ground damp if the week stays dry. Germination is the only part of the process that needs babysitting. Once established, the living roots safeguard your soil all winter long.

2. Send a Soil Sample to the Lab

(Image credit: Viktoriia Oleinichenko / Getty Images)

Fall is officially the quiet season at soil labs. Turnaround time for September samples is fast, whereas April submissions can sit in long backlogs. Take a little time now to get a soil test. Pull some core samples from 6 inches (15 cm) down in several spots around your bed. Mix them in a clean bucket to get a representative average, and send it off. You will receive a detailed report about soil pH, phosphorus, potassium, and organic matter levels. Why guess at what your soil is short of and waste money buying the wrong feed next year, when you can get reliable answers now?

Timing matters most if your lab test indicates a need for adding lime. Limestone is slow-acting and requires around 4-6 months to break down and adjust soil pH. So applying it in fall gives the amendment the entire dormant season to react with the soil. Untilled garden application rates stay around 5 pounds per 100 square feet (2.3 kg per 9 sqm). If you do need to add some lime, Down to Earth Organic Agricultural Lime, available on Amazon, delivers natural calcium that buffers soil gently. Remember that lime can interfere with phosphorus availability, so give it about a month on its own before adding other fall amendments.

3. Top-Dress With Finished Compost

(Image credit: Tanapon Kongbunrak / Getty Images)

When applying compost in fall, just remember that it goes on top, not down in. Spreading half an inch (1.3 cm) over an established bed is a perfect maintenance dose, while a 2-3-inch (5–8cm) layer suits any ground that’s in rough shape after a demanding summer crop. Nightcrawlers and earthworms then do the heavy lifting through fall, dragging rich organic material down before the cold sends them deep.

Do not expect a massive surge of nitrogen during the first year. Finished compost releases very little nitrogen the season after application, operating primarily as a soil structure amendment. What it does deliver is a boost in water-holding capacity and a thriving population boom for beneficial subterranean microbes and fungi. This really pays off in mid-July, when beds retain moisture days longer during heatwaves than untreated ground. To supercharge humic development under your compost layer, dust beds with some Sta-Green Earthworm Castings, available from Lowe’s. This introduces beneficial microbes and enzymes to work quietly all winter long.

4. Add Slow-Release Amendments

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Nitrogen washes easily out of bare soil over winter, but phosphorus and potassium do not. Amendments carrying either element can be safely laid out in fall, resting until spring roots wake up to find them. Traditional bone meal is the premier phosphorus source, breaking down very slowly on a timeline of months. You can get Epoma Organic Bone Meal from Walmart for a reduced price. Kelp meal supplies potassium alongside a spread of micronutrients, delivered at concentrations too gentle to burn roots.

However, consult your soil test results before applying either one. Bone meal rapidly loses availability as soil pH rises past 7, and it offers zero benefit to soil that is already loaded with phosphorus. Excess soil phosphorus can be harmful, too. Plants supplied with too much stop investing in mutually beneficial mycorrhizal fungal partnerships (and that relationship does far more for long-term plant health than any bag of bone meal). Where needed, some Down to Earth Organic Kelp Meal from Amazon nourishes underground soil life steadily. Gently scratch any amendments into the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil and cover with mulch.

5. Cover Bare Ground Before a Hard Freeze

(Image credit: Vasil Dimitrov / Getty Images)

Exposing bare soil to winter weather exacts a heavy toll for every month it remains uncovered. Rain drives fine soil particles down, crusting and sealing the surface so air and water cannot penetrate. Repeated freeze-thaw cycles heave shallow perennial roots clean out of the ground, while any soil left bare until January quickly fills with winter annual weeds. So add some protective mulch. Light straw and shredded leaves can go on thick at 4-6 inches (10-15 cm), whereas dense wood chips perform best at 2-4 inches (5-10 cm).

Timing is important, though. Wait for the ground to cool before applying thick mulch layers. Laid too early in warm soil, it may trigger late, tender plant growth that won’t harden off in time. Your goal is holding cold soil cold, preventing temperature fluctuations that can snap fine feeder roots. Always pull mulch back 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) from the stems and crowns of perennial plants. Field voles love nesting in warm mulch, where they chew on bark and stems all winter long. One of the team’s favorite organic mulches is Back to the Roots Organic Mulch, available from Amazon, which holds its integrity well in rough weather and looks lovely.

6. Turn Leaves into Leaf Mold

(Image credit: Malorny /Getty Images)

One rich soil treat is readily available in fall: fallen leaves. Just be sure to shred your leaves before you use them. Whole leaves mat together into a slick, water-repellent sheet that sheds rain off the top of your beds. Running over leaf piles with a lawn mower solves the problem. A dedicated electric leaf mulcher such as the Grasstigon Electric Leaf Mulcher, available from Amazon, also makes quick work of large yards. Leaf mold is a great way to rebuild soil structure. Heavy clay soils, in particular, respond with a looseness that is nearly impossible to achieve through other routes.

Beneficial fungi are the main drivers of leaf mold breakdown, whereas bacteria dominate traditional hot compost piles. This difference explains why leaf mold piles stay cool and break down slowly over a year or two, rather than heating up quickly. Construct your leaf pile roughly 3 feet (90 cm) wide and tall, keeping it damp so fungal networks can colonize the leaves. If you are gathering fallen leaves, use sturdy Joyhalo 72-Gallon Leaf Bags, available from Amazon keep your collected organic mulches dry, contained, and ready to spread.

7. Put the Tiller Away

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Every single pass with a power tiller inadvertently resets the hard work your soil has already accomplished. Fungal networks that took a whole season to build get instantly shredded. Furthermore, buried weed seeds are brought up to the light where they can germinate. The crumbly, sponge-like soil structure that holds water and allows air to circulate is being built slowly by roots, fungi, and earthworms. It won’t survive being churned by metal blades.

Compaction still needs addressing before winter – just without the rotary blades. A heavy-duty tool like the Ergonomic U-Tools Broadfork, available from Walmart sinks its tines nearly a foot (30 cm) deep and levers the soil open without turning it over, so the right layers stay where they belong over winter. If clearing spent crops, cut plants off at the soil line and leave the roots. As those roots rot over winter, they create perfect drainage channels and pathways for spring moisture, with zero extra effort.

(Image credit: CJP / Getty Images)

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Closed windows and the season’s first furnace run can quickly change the air inside your home. Dust gets stirred up, humidity drops, and outdoor plants come back indoors – bringing dust, damp potting mix, and other potential allergens with them.

During summer, houseplants barely register as an allergy issue. Many plants sit on porches or patios, while open windows help keep indoor air moving. By late September, those windows are closed and the pots are back inside. For some people, that shift can turn indoor plant allergies that went unnoticed for months into a stuffy nose that won't quit.

Good houseplant care covers the basics, but fall calls for a few extra precautions. Dusty leaves and soggy potting mix cause most flare-ups, but a handful of common species also carry allergens in their sap or pollen, which deserve a closer look this time of year.

Why Indoor Allergies Worsen in Autumn

Once the furnace runs for the first time, it can stir dust, dust-mite particles, and whatever settled in the vents over the summer into the air. Swap the filter before that first cold night. The faint burnt smell on day one is usually dust burning off the heater. Closed windows can make the problem worse because less outdoor air comes in to dilute it.

The other half of the trouble starts at the watering can. Houseplants grow more slowly indoors as the days shorten, yet many still get watered on a summer schedule. Potting mix that never dries out can develop mold on its surface. Bagged mixes may carry molds such as Aspergillus fumigatus from the start, although one study of plant-filled homes found very little of it in the air unless plants or soil were disturbed. Wet soil is a watering problem first and an allergy problem second.

5 Houseplants That Can Add to Fall Allergy Symptoms

Houseplant allergies are fairly uncommon overall, but they can still be troublesome for sensitive people. Each plant below has documented cases associated with it, and all five are common enough to find in living rooms, bedrooms, and home offices. That does not mean you need to remove them automatically – the risk depends on the plant, how it is handled, and your own sensitivity.

1. Weeping Fig

(Image credit: Mila Naumova / Getty Images)

Weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) is probably the best-known allergenic houseplant, and the trouble starts with its milky sap. The allergens don’t always stay put, either. They can turn up in the dust on the leaves and on the floor around the pot, so a plant that nobody has touched recently can still be a source of exposure.

Some of its proteins can cross-react with natural rubber latex, so anyone with a latex allergy should wear latex-free gloves when pruning it. Amazon sells Supmedic disposable latex-free gloves in a range of sizes.

2. Yucca

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Yucca (Yucca gigantea) is grown for its foliage, so people rarely suspect it. But skin-prick testing has still turned up yucca sensitization in people with allergic rhinitis, and plant keepers who handle it for work have broken out in hives. Its long, stiff leaves hold dust along their whole length. Wiping each one down with a damp cloth now and then keeps it from piling up.

3. Peace Lily

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum wallisii) can rebloom indoors, and the pale, powdery spike inside each white hood is where the pollen comes from. Documented allergy cases have involved both that pollen and the leaves. The simple move is to snip spent blooms early and keep flowering pots out of the bedroom.

4. Potted Mums

(Image credit: New Africa / Shutterstock)

Mums start coming indoors as table decor around now. Their allergens, including sesquiterpene lactones, sit on the flowers and in the fine hairs on the leaves, where they can become airborne. Rashes tend to start on the fingertips of whoever pinches off the buds. Anyone who already reacts to chamomile or feverfew may react to mums as well – they're all in the same plant family.

If you’re sensitive, wear gloves when handling mums, wash your hands afterward, and keep the plants away from your face and main living areas.

5. English Ivy (Hedera helix)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

English ivy turns up among the more frequent houseplant sensitizers in skin testing of people with allergic rhinitis. It also contains falcarinol, a compound that can irritate skin or set off an allergic rash. Reactions usually follow pruning or pulling runners by hand. Ivy that summered outside should get a thorough rinse and a close look before it comes back in.

How to Cut Down on Plant Allergens Indoors

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Dust is the easy win. Wipe broad leaves with a damp cloth, like these Amazon Basics microfiber cleaning cloths. Dry dusters just move spider mites and insect eggs from plant to plant. Smaller plants can go under the sink faucet in the morning so the leaves dry by evening. For the bedroom, a Levoit Core 300 HEPA air purifier can pull fine dust and pollen out of the air. It won't do anything for dust on the leaves, though.

Let the top of the potting mix dry between waterings, and pour off whatever collects in the saucer. A white, cottony film on the soil means it's staying too wet. Scrape that layer off outdoors and top the pot with fresh houseplant potting soil. Allergists generally advise keeping indoor humidity on the low side – dust mites and mold both thrive in damp air – so skip the humidifier near slow-drying containers.

Nobody has to give up a favorite plant over a few sneezes. If the stuffy nose sticks around into October, an allergist can test for specific houseplants, and a weeping fig that tests positive can move to a friend's sunroom.

Low Trigger Houseplants

If you’re prone to houseplant-related allergies, choose foliage plants with smooth leaves, little or no indoor flowering, and low watering needs. These three plants won't guarantee no reaction, but they avoid several common trouble spots.

Thirsty Leaves Parlor Palm

The parlor palm is a good choice for living rooms because it is foliage-led, does not have milky sap, and is generally considered pet-safe. Choose a young plant that is unlikely to flower indoors.

Thailand Peperomia

Also known as baby rubber plant, Peperomia obtusifolia is not a rubber tree and does not produce the latex-like sap associated with ficus plants. Its thick, smooth leaves and low watering needs make it a good low-allergen option.

Wekiva Foliage Cast Iron Plant

Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has large, smooth leaves, which won't trap dust as much as fuzzy foliage. It rarely flowers indoors and tolerates low light and infrequent watering.

Winter squash is so easy to grow but dark or soft patches around the fruit’s base is a common challenge in October, indicating end rot. Rotting bases are such a disappointment in fall, just as you’re looking forward to a harvest of butternut, acorn, honeynut and other winter squashes like spaghetti and delicata squash.

Don’t fear the worst, though. End rot on winter squash in October is easily fixed, so great work getting here to Garden ER where you'll find straightforward solutions to treat this season’s biggest planty problems. Act fast and you don’t have to lose your entire harvest. Identify and fix the issue, sand you'll save the rest of your homegrown gourds from a similar fate.

If you’re growing winter squash this season, it’s useful to know the signs to look out for, and what they indicate, even if you haven't noticed any dark patches on fruit bases, so you can take swift action at the very first whisper of a rotting bottom. Come on in to Garden ER and let’s diagnose and treat those ugly patches on the bases of your winter squash.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Triage: Take a Closer Look at That Base Patch

A winter squash rotting from the base up is easily spotted. A discolored patch on the bottom of the gourd appears: it may look darker, bruised or as if it’s been soaked in water. The spot will gradually grow larger and turn black or brown, and often becomes flat or slightly sunken. Press it and it’ll feel a little softer or spongier than the rest of the squash’s firm skin.

If the rotting base has been developing for a while, the patch may have collapsed into a hole, become moldy or emit a foul smell.

A healthy squash will have a base that's firm, with the spot where the blossom once grew having developed into a dry, pale, roughly circular patch.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Diagnosis: What’s Causing the Rot?

While you can’t help the affected squash’s rotting bottom, it’s vital to diagnose what caused it so you can save the rest of your harvest. While plants grown at ground level are vulnerable, end rot is also a common issue when growing winter squash vertically up a trellis.

Blossom End Rot

Blossom end rot is the most common reason, caused by a lack of calcium in the fruit which leads to weak cell walls. The problem isn’t typically a lack of calcium in the soil, but the plant's ability to take up and use the calcium. And the underlying cause of this is typically acidic soil, drought or inconsistent watering.

If blossom end rot is the problem, the rotting patch at the base of the fruit will look even and will have a brown, leathery, sunken appearance. Because calcium is used to build cell walls as the gourd grows from its base, deformed fruit formation is another clue that you’re dealing with blossom end rot.

Wet Ground

Contact with wet ground is the next most likely cause of end rot on your squashes. With more rain and cooler temperatures, it’s common at this time of year for the soil to remain moist. Contact softens the rinds where fruits are resting on permanently damp ground, giving pathogens like soil-borne fungi and bacteria a chance to start rotting the fruit.

Distinguishing between wet ground and blossom end rot being the cause is simple. Look at where the rot occurs: if wet ground is the cause, the fruit will likely look healthy except for the portion in contact with the soil; blossom end rot causes more even rotting, though it’s likely to be worse at the base.

Pest Damage

Pests are the least likely source of rot in squash ends in October, but it's a possibility. If pests start gnawing on the end of a fruit, the open wound can quickly become infected and start to rot. Signs of pest damage such as bites and holes will be clear, and these wounds are very likely to start rotting if they’re in contact with wet ground.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Treatment: Protect Your Current and Future Winter Squash Harvests1. Remove Rotting Winter Squash

Squash already affected with rotting bases cannot be saved, and rot can spread and contribute to worsening conditions for the rest of the plant. Cut fruit from the plant with a sharp pair of hand pruners, as soon as you spot the first signs of a rotting bottom.

If you’ve caught the problem early and the problem is wet ground or pest damage, the squash is still safe to eat – just cut away the affected part with a safety margin of a good inch of healthy flesh. Inspect the flesh and if it’s firm, hard, smells sweet and has its usual color, it’s safe to cook.

If blossom end rot is the cause, dispose of the squash even if the patch is still tiny. Because the calcium deficiency affects the fruit’s growth, the flesh is likely to be less sweet.

Regardless of cause, throw out any fruit that has a lot of rot, is very soft or leaking, or has a bad smell.

2. Check Soil pH

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As acidic soil is a common cause of blossom end rot, check pH levels. A comprehensive soil meter such as this from Amazon tests pH along with moisture levels, temperature, sunlight intensity and soil fertility so is a really handy helper when you’re growing vegetables. If you simply want a fast answer to whether your soil is acidic or not, test strips such as Rapitest Soil Test Kit, also from Amazon, is a quick and cheap method. Testing your soil is a smart move, however you choose to do it, as it'll alert you to any deficiencies that may be affecting others crops too.

Your local extension office can provide guidance on how to lower the acidity of your soil if results reveal a low pH level.

3. Water Consistently

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Good watering practices lowers the risk that remaining fruit will develop blossom end rot. Aim to keep soil consistently moist rather than letting it dry out completely and then soaking it. Water at the soil line low to the ground near the stem, keeping leaves and fruits dry as excess moisture on squashes can contribute to rot, especially in cooler fall temperatures.

A soaker hose such as this Kink-Free Flat Soaker Hose from Walmart is a simple solution, or you’ll find some great deals on drip irrigation starter kits now summer’s over, like this Garden Irrigation System, also from Walmart.

4. Lift Squashes Off the Ground

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Elevating developing fruits off the ground is a great way to prevent rot, keeping them off damp soil. It can be as simple as placing individual fruits on top of rocks or wood planks, or lay straw under the lot. A wheat cover straw such as CleanStraw mulch, available from Walmart, is ideal. Don’t worry about a few seeds being left among the threshed straw – wheat seedlings are shallow-rooted and very easy to pull up.

Move young fruits carefully so you don’t damage the stems.

5. Improve Airflow

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Good airflow around plants will also reduce localized moisture and the risk of rotting. Adding a layer of straw over the soil will do the job of improving airflow as well as lifting fruit off the soil, but general care will help, too. Squash plants tend to get very dense with vegetation as they grow so regularly remove any yellow, damaged or mildewed leaves, being careful not to prune healthy leaves too aggressively as plants need these to make energy.

You can also boost airflow by removing debris under and around the plants, especially around the fruits. A small hand rake like Fiskars Xact Hand Rake, available from Lowe's, makes the job easier.

6. Harvest Sooner

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Keep a closer eye on your squashes once October arrives, and harvest them as soon as they’re ready. The longer they sit outside, the more likely they are to rot. Signs they’re ripe and ready include a full, mature color, a hard rind that resists your fingernail, and a dried or hardened stem.

The hard rind of winter squashes mean they store well, so even if you have a glut, harvest what you can, as soon as you can.

Patient Notes: How Zone Affects End RotIf You Garden in a Cold Zone

In colder growing zones, early cold snaps, shorter daylight hours, and damp fall weather in October can slow down root activity, making it harder for plants to transport calcium efficiently to developing fruit, making this a likely cause behind blossom end rot.

If You Garden in a Warmer Zone

In warmer zones, late-season heat and drier soil accelerates plant growth and transpiration, which can cause severe moisture fluctuations, making inconsistent watering a likely trigger for blossom end rot.

More Garden ER Help

Every week, the Garden ER series brings you simple solutions to this season's most pressing problems, for happy and healthy plants without any hassle.

Christmas Cactus Dropping Leaves?

A lost leaf or two doesn’t spell disaster for a Christmas cactus in October but you can't afford to ignore this distress signal.

Brown Lawn Patches?

Chafer grubs have devastated drought-stressed lawns this year but are easily treated if catch this crucial fall window.

Peace Lily Going Brown?

Work out what your peace lily needs to recover if spathes develop brown patches or look dry and crispy around the edges.

It’s right out of a Norman Rockwell painting: the kind man mowing the elderly neighbor’s lawn as a surprise. But don’t try this at home. Times have changed, America has changed, and American laws (and lawns) have changed, too. What might once have been viewed as a courtesy gesture could be called trespass today.

When it comes to lawn mowing tips, here’s an important one: don’t mow any lawn but your own without permission. In many cases these days, the person entering a neighbor’s property to mow does so because they don’t like the unkempt look, rather than being courteous. But even if your motive is kind, don’t take the step without asking.

Any time you enter another person’s property without their express permission – with or without a lawn mower – you may violate their property rights and be charged with trespassing. As a former attorney, I explore common issues like this in my Gardening Lawyer series, which looks at the legal issues that can catch gardeners by surprise.

What's Changed?

America has changed over the past decades in many different ways. One big change is the growth of urban and suburban areas. The number of people living in cities or in nearby suburban areas has increased, so more people are living closer together. That makes property boundaries more of an issue. Many residences have little squares of land as backyards.

This may help explain why trespassing laws in this country have become increasingly strict over the past 50 years. But this shift has also been driven by new technology, like GPS. Fifty years ago, if you crossed an unfenced field, you could excuse yourself by saying you were just following local custom.

Today, modern smartphones and GPS apps can map property boundaries instantly. That means a trespasser cannot claim ignorance, and you may be arrested for trespassing for entering the same unfenced field today. And you may be arrested for entering your neighbor’s backyard to mow their lawn uninvited.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Fear of Premises Liability Lawsuits

We all know it’s true: Americans sue more now than they did years ago. Anyone who owns property may be liable for any injuries that occur on that property, whether the person injured was invited or not. This is called premises liability.

Private landowners want to avoid the massive legal risks they face under premises liability. To protect themselves, landowners are much less likely to allow people to enter their property uninvited.

The risks are real. If you enter your neighbor’s property to mow their grass, anything might happen. You may put your foot in a gopher hole and trip and break your leg. You may get bitten by a protection dog or a wild animal like a snake. You may be hit by a tree branch falling to the ground. Your neighbor does not want a premises liability suit.

(Image credit: Jakob Berg / Getty Images)Property Damage

Finally, mowing the neighbor’s lawn without permission can lead them to sue you for property damage. Obviously, if your lawn mower takes out a special shrub or leaves holes in the soil, you've damaged your neighbor's property.

But even if there is no accident like this, your neighbor may be unhappy with you. First, you may think of the lawn as overgrown, while they may be in the process of growing a prairie lawn instead of turfgrass. And they may have developed their own routines, like letting grass grow taller to foster a natural ecosystem or aid wildlife. In these cases, your uninvited “favor” may feel disrespectful or invasive to your neighbor.

(Image credit: Andrew Fletcher / Shutterstock)Steps to Take to Stay on the Right Side of the Law

If you really want to help a neighbor who is elderly or incapacitated, all you have to do is ask them if they would like you to help. If they need help, they will be happy to agree to your proposal. If they prefer keeping their lawn as it is, or if they would prefer you not come for privacy reasons, they can say no.

If you were thinking of mowing the neighbor’s lawn because it is overgrown and makes the neighborhood look sloppy, you can also ask for permission. If they refuse, you might complain to the neighborhood association or the city.

More from the Gardening Lawyer

• Why Taking Cuttings From a Plant You Bought Could Land You in Legal Trouble
• If Your Tree Falls Into a Neighbor’s Yard, Who Pays for the Damage?
• Can You Take Garden Plants With You When You Move House?
• Is Your Neighbor's Tree Blocking the Sunlight in Your Yard? Here’s What You Can (and Can’t) Do About It
• Is It OK to Take Plant Cuttings From Garden Centers?

Most gardeners will tell you that, come October, the summer blooms are fading, the leaves are starting to change, and the garden can feel like it’s getting ready for winter. Still, there are plenty of flowers putting on a show... and they’re doing something even more important than brightening up our yards.

Fall-blooming flowers are undeniably beautiful, but they can also provide a valuable source of food for bees, butterflies and other pollinators at a time when fewer flowers are available. For me, that's brilliant news, as I’ve always thought of my garden as more than just a place to grow pretty plants; it’s also a tiny patch of habitat, and choosing flowers that provide nectar and pollen can make that patch a little more useful to the wildlife passing through.

As recent headlines have made all too clear, pollinators face a range of pressures, from habitat loss and pesticide use to climate and weather changes, resulting in some bee species being declared endangered. And, while none of us can solve those problems from our backyard, a few well-chosen plants can turn an ordinary flower bed into a much busier place.

Shop Pollinator Essentials:

Bee Cups Bee Watering Station

Gbekery Glass Hummingbird Feeder

ZeenArt Butterfly House

Fall is a particularly good time to think about helping the (humming)birds and the bees, and all it takes is a few late-season flowers that keep on going for as long as the weather allows.

So, if you’re looking for flowers that can keep your garden colorful into October (while giving pollinators a reason to stop by), these are seven I’d put at the top of the list. Bloom times will vary depending on the variety and where you live, but all are worth considering for a fall-friendly garden.

1. Japanese Anemone

(Image credit: Steve Taylor ARPS / Alamy)

Japanese anemones are one of my favorite ways to add a little elegance to a fall garden, as their delicate-looking pink or white flowers can continue blooming well into October.

They’re especially useful to pollinators because their open flowers make it relatively easy for bees and other insects to reach the pollen and nectar, and I particularly like them planted toward the back of a border, where their tall stems can rise above shorter perennials.

Look for Japanese anemone cultivars suited to your USDA growing zone, as flowering time can vary with climate (although, personally, I love this September Charm Japanese Anemone from Nature Hills). Give them a spot with good light and reasonably well-drained soil, and they can become a reliable part of the late-season garden.

2. Asters

(Image credit: ESOlex / Getty Images)

If I had to choose one group of flowers to represent the late-season pollinator garden, asters would be near the top of my list. Their daisy-like flowers can bring a splash of purple, pink, blue or white to your garden come October, when many other plants are fading.

These little beauties are especially valuable in fall because bees and butterflies are still looking for food, while the number of flowering plants available to them is beginning to shrink. And, unsurprisingly, native asters are particularly worthwhile if supporting local wildlife is one of your gardening goals.

Of course, there are many different aster varieties and cultivars available, so check the expected bloom time and mature size before planting. In the right spot, they can provide a spectacular late-season display (especially if you pick something like the vibrant Grape Crush New England Aster from Nature Hills).

3. Goldenrod

(Image credit: KenWiedemann / Getty Images)

Goldenrod (which just so happens to be the birth month native flower for November babies everywhere, if you're wondering!) is one of those plants I think deserves a much better reputation. Its clouds of yellow flowers are practically synonymous with fall, and they can be absolutely covered in visiting insects when they’re in bloom.

Despite its reputation, goldenrod isn't the main culprit behind fall hay fever — ragweed is much more commonly responsible for those airborne allergies. Goldenrod, meanwhile, is an important source of nectar and pollen for a wide variety of insects.

Native goldenrod species are especially valuable for wildlife. If you have the space for one, it can turn an otherwise quiet corner of the garden into a buzzing little feeding station in late summer and fall (not to mention some eye-popping majesty if you go for something like Fireworks Goldenrod).

4. Zinnias

(Image credit: Carolyn Jenkins / Alamy)

Zinnias are one of my favorite choices when I want maximum color with relatively little fuss, as they come in an almost ridiculous range of colors and flower shapes. Better still, with regular deadheading, many varieties will continue producing flowers well into fall.

They’re also a favorite with butterflies. On a warm October day, it’s not unusual to see butterflies moving from one zinnia flower to the next, while bees make use of the blooms too. Plant something like Burpee's Zesty Mix Zinnia Seeds & Plants in a sunny spot, keep picking or deadheading the flowers, and they can help keep the garden colorful until frost puts an end to the show.

5. Sedum

(Image credit: Diane Helentjaris / Getty Images)

Autumn-blooming sedums are another plant I wouldn’t want to be without. Their dense clusters of tiny flowers open just when the garden is beginning to lose some of its summer color, and the blooms can attract plenty of bees and butterflies.

One of the things I like most about sedum is how easy it is to work into a garden; honestly, it’s generally drought tolerant once established, and the upright varieties add structure as well as late-season color.

Look for autumn-flowering types such as 'Autumn Joy' (available at Nature Hills) and similar cultivars. Their flower heads can start out pale and gradually deepen in color, giving the plant a long season of interest even before winter arrives. Plus, who doesn't love that extra-terrestrial vibe of theirs for added texture and fun, eh?

6. Black-Eyed Susan

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Black-eyed Susans bring a cheerful burst of yellow to the late-summer and fall garden, which has made them somewhat synonymous with October. Their daisy-like flowers, centered around a dark brown cone, are instantly recognizable and work beautifully in informal borders and pollinator gardens.

Depending on the species and cultivar, they can bloom from summer into fall, making them useful for extending the flowering season. Bees and butterflies are among the visitors they can attract, while their seed heads can provide food for birds later in the year.

For the longest possible display, remove spent flowers regularly. If you leave some seed heads standing, though, you can trade a little tidiness for additional wildlife value later in the season. And, if you plump for something like Prairie Glow Black-Eyed Susan from Nature Hills, you get bicolored blooms that make people stop and take notice.

7. Mexican Bush Sage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Mexican bush sage is a particularly good choice for gardeners in warmer parts of the U.S, as its velvety foliage and spikes of purple-and-white flowers can provide a spectacular late-season display, with flowering often continuing into October.

The tubular flowers are attractive to bees, butterflies and other nectar-seeking insects, and the plant can be especially useful when other flowers are beginning to disappear. That being said, it's worth noting that Mexican bush sage isn't hardy everywhere in the country. In colder climates, it's often grown as an annual or overwintered indoors, while gardeners in warmer zones can enjoy it as a perennial.

If your climate allows it,, it's a beautiful way to keep the fall garden buzzing. And it's easily done, too, as you can buy Mexican Sage Salvia Live Plants from Walmart.

And just like that, you have some serious MVP plants for a pollinator-friendly garden in October. Time to get planting, then...

Early October is peak flowering time for most dahlias, and the right care now will influence not just how many more blooms you enjoy into fall, but the health of their tubers you’ll soon be digging up to store over winter. Dahlias thrive during this season’s warm days and cool nights, and will reward you with spectacular and abundant blooms. But if you want to enjoy the same dazzling show next year, you need to strike a balance between pushing for more flowers and prepping those tubers for storage. So, if you're wondering what dahlias need in October, balanced care is critical.

Fall dahlia care also depends heavily on your growing region and climate but for most gardeners, early October should bring a focus on cleaning up plants, preventing new green growth, supporting tall stems, and monitoring and managing pests and diseases. Get it right and you’ll get plenty more blooms as well as plump tubers full of energy that’ll overwinter well, ready for a repeat performance next year.

Ready? Let’s dive into what to do with dahlias in October.

1. Keep Watering, But Don’t Overdo It

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Part of the fall balance for dahlias is irrigation levels. While plants are still putting out impressive blooms, they’ll be using plenty of water, but their tubers are also preparing to toughen up for winter – and too much moisture means those roots get soft and won't store well. Add rainfall into the mix and there’s even more to consider, especially if you're growing dahlias in containers.

The best guideline is to water your dahlias if it doesn’t rain, once the soil has dried out. But then water deeply. A rain gauge such as this pretty precipitation gauge stake from Amazon is a really simple but effective way to keep an eye on how much rainfall your plants are getting, so you can water accordingly. Irrigate at soil level, never over the plants, and try to avoid getting foliage and stems too wet.

As October proceeds, gradually cut back on how much water you provide so the tubers start to toughen their skins.

2. Deadhead Flowers

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

As long as you keep removing spent blooms, you’ll direct the plant’s energy into growing more blooms rather than seed production. To deadhead dahlias, cut the faded flower stem back to the next branching point. Of course, you don’t need to wait for the petals to fade before cutting, as now you can be enjoying cut flowers as your reward for all your hard work. Snipping freshly opened blooms will also encourage plants to continue producing more.

With some dahlia varieties, the spent flowers look very similar to new buds. If you're not sure which is which, give it a gentle squeeze: fresh about-to-open buds will feel firm to the touch while spent blooms will feel a little mushy.

Of course, if you plant to collect seeds, leave some of the flowers in place.

3. Support Stems if Needed

(Image credit: Getty Images)

All these heavy blooms can start to weigh down the stems, especially if you're growing dinnerplate dahlias, and it’s common to see plants splay at this time of the year. If you don’t already have them in place, add stakes to help top-heavy stems stay upright. Not only do vertical stems look better, broken stems can create wounds that are vulnerable to disease.

Bamboo canes will do the job just fine, but make sure you buy poles that are long enough, like these reusable 5' support stakes from Walmart, as you’ll need to push a quarter of the length into the ground. Tie individual stems into the stakes using soft twist ties such as these from Amazon that won’t cut into the plant material, or simply fashion a cradle around the whole plant with canes and twine.

If you do have supports in place, check them and make adjustments as needed, especially after heavy rain or windy weather.

4. Watch Out for Pests and Disease

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As part of regular maintenance, you should be looking out for signs of pest infestations or diseases taking root in your dahlias. Do this throughout the growing season, but especially now, as you want your plants to stay healthy as they build up energy and tough, healthy tubers for winter storage.

Some of the typical pests you’re looking for in October include spider mites and aphids, both of which feed on dahlias. Pests are less of a concern this time of year as growth is wrapping up anyway, but it’s still worth removing them with a spray of water or use an organic neem oil spray such as Bonide Captain Jack’s Neem Oil, available from Lowe’s, to keep your plants looking tidy for the rest of the season.

Increasing rain and lower temperatures in fall can increase the prevalence of powdery mildew and leaf spot. While there’s no need to worry, if you spot a white dust-like coating to leaves, it’s best to remove them to reduce the amount of infected plant matter in your garden beds. A collapsible waste bag like Fiskars 10-Gallon Yard Waste Bag, available from Amazon, makes it easy to transport them straight to the trash, as you don’t want these fungal spores in your compost bin.

5. Gradually Stop Fertilizing

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Feeding dahlias as we head deeper into fall pushes the plant to make new growth rather than harden off its tubers ready for storage. Particularly, avoid the temptation to use up any high-nitrogen fertilizer which promotes leafy growth. If you're gardening in a warmer zone and still feeding to promote flowering, make sure the fertilizer is designed specifically for that job. Look for a low- or zero-nitrogen feed such as TPS Flower Fertilizer, available from Amazon, that’s rated 0-10-10 or 5-10-10 – the first number indicates nitrogen levels, so this must be lower than the second two numbers that indicate potassium and phosphorus.

Aim to stop fertilizing completely 4-6 weeks before your first expected frost date, to give your plant time to mature its tubers.

6. Prepare for the First Hard FrostIf You Garden in a Cold Zone

In zones 7 and below, you’ll need to dig up and store your dahlia tubers over the winter. Depending on the zone you garden in, your first frost could hit in October, so make sure you’ve got everything ready. Coco coir such as this from Walmart in a cardboard box makes for cheap and effective storage.

Always wait until the first good frost has killed the stems above the ground, as this triggers the plant to send a rush of sugars and starches down into the tubers. Not only does this mean lots of energy stored for next year, it tells the plant to enter dormancy and mature the tubers, when they’ll store better.

It’s best to leave tubers in the ground to rest for 1-2 weeks after this frost to allow this process, unless you suspect the soil will freeze, when tubers will die, or rainfall is heavy and incessant, when roots may start to rot.

(Image credit: Getty Images)If You Garden in a Warm Zone

If you live in the warmer climates of zones 8-11, you can safely leave dahlia tubers in the ground as long as you have well-draining soil. If you have a frost, wait a week or two to allow the energy transfer into the tubers then cut stems down to around 3-4 inches and pile a 5-inch layer of mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch, available from The Home Depot, over the soil to act as a cozy duvet.

In frost-free zones, cut stems by mid-December at the latest to ensure plants rest, and there’s no need to mulch.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As you look ahead, adjust your plans to the weather as temperatures and rainfall can vary widely in fall. Keep enjoying those spectacular October blooms but remember you need to start caring for the tubers, too, if you want next summer's display to be equally stunning.

Stock Up On Showstopper Varieties

October is a great month to buy dahlia tubers as you'll be able to find more unusual varieties and dahlia types that are usually snapped up months before the first hint of spring. Most specialist dahlia retailers open for pre-orders in October then send tubers out in spring, though it's fine to physically buy tubers now as you can safely store them for spring planting.
Take a look at Dutch Grown's impressive dahlia collection of over 150 cultivars for inspiration, and here are just a few varieties new for 2027 to give you a taste of the incredible flower shapes and color combos now available.

painterly petals

2 Marble Ball Tubers

Dreamy color combo

2 Palmares Tubers

fluff-ball blooms

2 Caproz Josephine Tubers

As a home grower with several decades of hard-earned wins and lessons learned behind me, I know that the right greenhouse can fundamentally transform what you can achieve as a gardener. It can add weeks (if not months) to sowing and growing timelines and harvesting opportunities, and let you regulate your plant’s environment in critical ways. The right greenhouse lets you safeguard tender perennials through freezing winters, nurture delicate seedlings from seed, and cultivate heat-loving crops that would otherwise struggle in your local climate. It also offers a unique sanctuary, a weather-proof haven, and a wonderful space in which to play.

However, choosing the right greenhouse is a structural decision, not an impulse purchase. There are so many tempting greenhouse ideas that look amazing in photos – but how do you know which is really right for you? Unlike buying a terracotta pot or a garden bench, adding a greenhouse to your yard means you are in charge of a functioning, climate-controlled ecosystem. A model that thrives in a sheltered suburban yard might buckle under Midwestern prairie winds or turn into a furnace in a hot Southern summer. Falling in love with a particular shape or design without considering location, insulation, ventilation, or foundation stability is one of the quickest routes to buyer’s remorse.

To make an investment that brings joy for decades, you need to balance your personal growing ambitions with the realities of your space, budget, and local weather. Whether you are seeking a compact pop-up shelter to start tomato seedlings, a durable polycarbonate kit for family food production, or an elegant glasshouse that serves as a centerpiece for your backyard, this masterclass guide breaks down every critical factor to help you choose with complete confidence.

Key Buying Considerations

This buying guide aims to take the sting out of many of those key questions you'll definitely be having, before you reach for your wallet – providing you with a useful foundation for your growing space, based on an honest assessment of the following fundamentals:

1. Sizing & Location: Identify usable growing space, door clearance, and staging bench footprint. Match your yard to one of the core styles.
2. Material & Glazing: Balance insulation, sunlight and impact resistance, with a consideration of the benefits of traditional glass, twin-wall polycarbonate, and heavy-duty polyethylene film.
3. Climate Control & Airflow: Make sure you prevent crop scorch with smart ventilation, airflow circulation, and smart seasonal shading.
4. Foundations & Wind Defense: Select the correct grounding method to keep lightweight aluminum frames anchored against storms.
5. Retailers, Kits & Brands: Navigate budget pop-ups vs. heavy-duty kits, warranties, and trusted manufacturers.
6. Utility & Permitting Realities: Plan access to outdoor water and electricity for heat mats or timers. Verify local zoning, HOA bylaws, and property setback rules.

1. Size, Style & Placement

(Image credit: Coldsnowstorm / Getty Images)

Where you put your greenhouse is often key to deciding on the right model. Selecting the ideal site requires balancing sunlight, shelter, and everyday convenience, based on your regional climate and your USDA growing zone. A common error is placing a greenhouse in a forgotten corner of the yard, where it quickly becomes an out-of-sight chore to maintain.

Northern gardeners need maximum exposure to natural light, positioning the ridge along an east-west axis to capture low winter sun and trap precious early spring solar radiation, while sheltering the frame from prevailing north winds. Southern and humid-zone growers face the opposite challenge. Professional horticulture expert Bethany Lakatos points out the need to balance full winter light with protection from intense afternoon summer heat.

"If you have a space with a deciduous tree that can shade your greenhouse on summer afternoons, this will also allow maximum sunlight when the tree is dormant,” says Bethany, who works at Trees.com. “However, before moving ahead with your plans, assess the tree for health: if you see any weak limbs, large wounds, or if the tree is a weak-wooded type, contact an arborist first.” As Bethany notes, in Southern climates, hurricane season and severe thunderstorms can lead to downed limbs and trees that may damage structures below their canopy.

(Image credit: Тодорчук Екатерина / Getty Images)

Equally critical across all regions is siting your structure near existing household water and electrical supplies. Running hoses across long distances or relying on distant outlets creates unnecessary friction during busy spring seed-starting routines. "I placed my greenhouse close enough to my house so I can run an extension cord out there if needed," explains Trisha Nieder, master gardener and regenerative farmer at Nieder Farms. "Outside of electricity, you’re definitely going to need water, so having a greenhouse set up next to your home where you can easily connect a hose to an outdoor faucet makes things far easier when it’s time to water."

When estimating size, most first-time buyers underestimate the floor space required. Remember, a greenhouse is not merely storage for potted plants; it is a working environment that must accommodate staging benches, soil bags, watering cans, and comfortable human movement. An 8x10-foot footprint may sound spacious on paper, but once you deduct a central walkway and staging benches on either side, space fills up rapidly.

The ground is the final location decision. Groundwork options range from simple, free-draining gravel beds over weed membrane to timber mudsills, concrete pads, or raised brick knee-walls. Skimping on ground prep or building over uneven surfaces introduces major thermal and structural vulnerabilities. "Our biggest rookie mistake was trying to build our first greenhouse with a wooden floor made of pallets because the ground was so uneven," reveal Staci and Jeremy Hill, homesteading experts and co-authors of The Preserver’s Garden, available from Amazon. "This put air between the ground and greenhouse, which made it a lot colder inside."

Choosing the Right Size

(Image credit: Miljko / Getty Images)

How much greenhouse space do you need? “The bottom line is that your goals and reasoning for having a greenhouse will determine both the size and layout," says Staci and Jeremy Hill. Thinking about your primary growing needs will help you to determine the right dimensions (which in turn helps with picking a model).

• Seasonal Seed Starting & Urban Yards: Do you just need space for 1-2 potting benches or 12-18 seed flats for spring seed starts and hardening off tender crops? In this case, a compact mini with a 6x4 ft to 6x8 ft (1.8x1.2 m to 1.8x2.4 m) footprint gives 24-48 sq ft (2.2-4.5 sq m) for growing with 2-2.5 ft (60-75 cm) walking space.
• Year-Round Vegetables & Family Homesteads: Ideal for family food production, easily fitting staging benches, 6-8 mature vine crops, and overwintering pots. Go for a mid-size option that is 8x10 ft to 8x12 ft (2.4x3 m to 2.4x3.7 m), delivering 80-96 sq ft (7.4- 8.9 sq m) of usable space around a 3ft (90 cm) central walkway.
• Serious Food Producing & Seed-Saving: High-volume harvests need room for double-tier benching, floor-planted beds, thermal water heat barrels, and a worktable. This requires a large high-yield option with a 10x14 ft to 10x16 ft (3x4.3 m to 3x4.9 m) layout, offering 140-160 sq ft (13-14.9 sq m) of working space and a wide 3.5 ft (1.05 m) walkway.
• Multipurpose Sanctuaries: Do you want room for multi-zone crop rotation, rare tropical collections, and integrated seating? Choose an estate-scale 12x20 ft (3.7x6.1 m) structure for over 240 sq ft (22.3 sq m) of growing area and a generous 4 ft (1.2 m) main aisle.

Key Greenhouse Styles

(Image credit: RossHelen / Getty Images)

Glancing online can give you a mass of riches in terms of greenhouse shapes and sizes, but most fall into one of the following categories:

• Pop-Up & Soft-Shell Tunnels: Lightweight polyethylene film supported by tubular steel or flexible hoop frames. Perfect for renters, balcony growers, and seasonal seed starting, these temporary structures capture quick solar heat without requiring permanent footings or site modifications.
• Lean-To & Wall-Mounted: Designed to anchor directly against an existing brick wall or house facade. Lean-tos maximize small yard footprints while absorbing daytime heat and radiating warmth back into the growing space overnight.
• Freestanding A-Frame (Gable): The classic rectangular walk-in greenhouse featuring straight vertical sidewalls and a sloped roof. A-frames deliver maximum head clearance, uniform light distribution, and symmetrical interior layout for double-sided staging benches.
• Gothic Arch & Cathedral High-Peak: Characterized by a curved, pointed roof engineered for severe climates, these models make lovely snow and wind deflectors. The steep Gothic angle prevents heavy snow accumulation by allowing snow to slide off while deflecting wind.
• Victorian & T-Shaped Pavilions: Multi-gable glasshouses featuring high vertical eaves, decorative cresting, and expansive central entry porchways. These structures function as both high-volume growing environments and elegant garden sanctuaries for outdoor living.

(Image credit: Getty Images)2. Frame Material & Glazing

Choosing the right structural frame and glazing panel dictates how well your greenhouse will retain heat, survive winter storms, and resist daily wear. For structural framing, home growers can typically choose between rot-resistant cedar wood, heavy-duty galvanized steel, or lightweight powder-coated aluminum. While timber offers natural insulation and a rustic aesthetic, aluminum remains the top choice for modern kits due to its zero-maintenance, rust-proof longevity.

"When selecting frame materials, long-term durability and resistance to moisture should be your top priorities," emphasizes Shane Pliska, biophilia authority and President of Planterra Conservatory in Michigan. "Powder-coated aluminum frames offer an exceptional balance of structural strength and weather resistance without requiring seasonal sealants or rust treatments, making them ideal for high-humidity growing environments."

(Image credit: Olga Rolenko / Getty Images)

As you evaluate different glazing materials, make sure you balance aesthetic clarity against thermal efficiency, impact safety, and light diffusion:

• Twin-Wall Polycarbonate: This features cellular air pockets for superior thermal insulation and high impact resistance against hail. As Bethany Lakatos points out, "Polycarbonate panels filter harsh solar rays, providing built-in shade protection that prevents young crops from getting scorched while holding onto heat overnight."
• Horticultural Glass: Offers unmatched visual transparency and a classic aesthetic that never degrades or turns opaque over time. However, on the flip side, it can be heavy and costly to install, and it provides minimal frost insulation.
• Polyethylene Film: An ultra-affordable covering, ideal for temporary polytunnels and starter setups. While great as a seasonal budget option, it requires replacement every 3-5 years due to UV breakdown.

While clear glass looks beautiful in a landscape, diffused light through twin-wall polycarbonate often creates a superior growing climate inside the structure by scattering sunlight into lower leaf canopies. "Many growers love the traditional look of glass, but twin-wall polycarbonate is far more forgiving and practical for everyday home gardening," advises Anna Ohler, plant expert and co-founder of Bright Lane Gardens in northern Michigan. "It diffuses direct sunlight, so your plants don't scorch on hot afternoons, it retains heat better during cold spring nights, and it won't shatter if a stray branch or storm debris hits it."

To protect your investment and maintain a balanced climate during peak summer heat, managing direct UV exposure is critical. To extend panel life and prevent midday heat scorch, it’s a good idea to pair your build with a pre-grommeted shade cloth, such as the Agfabric 50% Sunblock Shade Cloth, available from Amazon, which provides instant, affordable cooling in midsummer without blocking the essential light your crops need.

3. Climate Control & Airflow Strategy

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Managing internal temperatures and air movement is what keeps a greenhouse from becoming a stifling oven in July or an icebox in January. The most reliable cooling method relies on passive thermodynamics rather than costly electricity. Cold air entering low side openings forces rising hot air out through high ridge vents. "Natural ventilation is essential," explains Shane Pliska. "Roof vents and side vents work together: hot air escapes through the roof and draws fresh air in through the sides. This is the stack effect, a principle used to ventilate buildings for centuries."

To make the most of this, structure your vent placements based on the length of your building frame. "As a rule, use one roof and side ventilator per every 6.5 feet (2m) of greenhouse length," advises Bethany Lakatos. "Louver windows can also be used for extra ventilation and are a good option for the South, as they can let in drafts in colder climates." To prevent heat spikes when you aren't home, pair roof panels with a heat-activated arm, such as the Bibistore Temperature Sensitive Automatic Greenhouse Vent Opener, from Amazon. This uses heat-expanding cylinders to lift windows as interior air warms above 60°F without needing electricity.

(Image credit: Terra24 / Getty Images)

At the other extreme, controlling cold snaps requires understanding how fast closed glass structures radiate warmth once the sun goes down. "I think people can underestimate how quickly a greenhouse can overheat, or drop in temperature at night," warns Anna Ohler. "For really cold weather, I like to create another layer of protection directly over the plants. Frost cloth or row cover over low hoops essentially creates a little greenhouse inside the greenhouse." Three good heat-retention strategies for winter include:

• Thermal Water Mass (Passive Heat Retention): Position dark 55-gallon (208 L) water drums along your north wall to absorb ambient daytime solar heat and radiate it slowly back into the structure overnight.
• Targeted Root-Zone Heating: Place soil-heating cable mats directly under propagation trays to maintain a cozy 70°F (21°C) root temperature without needing to heat the entire air volume of the building.
• Insulating Bubble Wrap & Secondary Frames: Line internal twin-wall panels with heavy UV-stabilized bubble wrap to trap dead air and reduce nighttime heating bills by up to 30%.

For growers in severe northern zones needing heavy freeze protection, pairing internal row covers with a portable forced-air electric heater, such as the Airchoice 1500W Electric Greenhouse Heater, available from Walmart, provides thermostat-controlled circulation that keeps air moving and prevents frost pockets from damaging tender foliage.

4. Interior Setup, Power & Water

(Image credit: Zlyka2008 / Getty Images)

Transforming an empty greenhouse frame into an efficient growing space requires thoughtful zoning for staging benches, seed-starting stations, and utility access. Setting up slatted aluminum shelving makes the most of vertical space, while allowing soil spills and water to drain freely. To build a durable workspace that maximizes growing area while keeping walkways clear, go for modular steel shelving, such as the CuisinSmart 4-Tier Greenhouse Shelving Staging from Walmart, which can support heavy potted plants as well as propagation flats.

Before running permanent plumbing lines or installing misting bars, focus on flooring drainage and electrical safety to prevent standing water hazards. "The biggest thing with electricity is remembering that a greenhouse is basically a giant wet environment," says Anna’s husband and business partner, Nick Ohler. "Anything electrical needs to be designed for that environment, including GFCI protection, outdoor/wet-location rated outlets and covers, and properly protected wiring. For water, think about drainage before you think about irrigation." Factor in these interior setup and care rules:

• Automated Drip Irrigation: Running flexible drip lines directly to potted crops ensures consistent root-zone moisture, while keeping foliage dry to prevent fungal pathogens like powdery mildew.
• Annual Glazing Maintenance: Scrubbing internal and external twin-wall panels once a year with warm water and mild dish soap removes accumulated algae and restores maximum light transmission.
• Autumn Pipe Winterization: Disconnecting garden hoses, draining exterior supply lines, and insulating exposed taps before the first autumn freeze can all help you to avoid catastrophic pipe bursts.

Automating daily watering ensures that crops receive steady hydration even during busy workdays or weekend trips. To easily manage drip irrigation cycles without manual effort, pair an exterior hose bib with an automated water controller, like the Rain Bird Digital Hose End Timer, available from Walmart. This has programmable watering intervals and an automatic rain-delay button to prevent water waste.

(Image credit: Dmitrii Marchenko / Getty Images)

Monitoring internal temperature swings and managing supplemental heat sources also encourage a stress-free growing environment. "We like to use portable electric radiator-style space heaters plugged into a cheap thermostat for heating," say Staci and Jeremy Hill. "Coupled with inexpensive Bluetooth and Wi-Fi wireless thermometers and high/low alarms to keep an eye on temperatures, this saves us lots of extra trips."

Best Kits & Brands

Choosing the right greenhouse comes down to balancing your growing ambition against local weather realities. While budget pop-ups offer an accessible entry point, permanent structures require engineered wind ratings, heavy-gauge frames, and long-term foundation planning. "Budget greenhouse kits are budget for a reason. The lower cost definitely comes with caveats," explains Trisha Nieder. "That said, if you’re on a budget and want a greenhouse, you can absolutely make these work. They are an affordable way to see how often you’ll use it and what kind of features you'd like to have." The following highlights some key suitable brands based on goals and budget:

Which Brands are Best for Your Needs?

If You Want...

Price Range

Recommended Brands & Distributors

Budget DIY Starter and Fast Delivery

Under $350

Ohuhu, Outsunny, Sanerto, Quictent, Eagle Peak, ShelterLogic

Mid-Range Year-Round Growing

$350-$1,200

Palram Canopia, Veikous, Outsunny Cedar, Eartheasy, Vegepod

Heavy Snow and Extreme Wind Defense

$1,200–$3,000

Planta Greenhouses, Climapod, Yoderbilt, Riga, Hobby Gardener

Lifetime Custom Luxury and Glass

$3,000–$10,000+

Backyard Discovery, HOWE, Palram Oasis, Hartley Botanic, BC Greenhouses, Janssens

Entry-Level Greenhouses (Under $350)

Ideal for temporary spring propagation, balcony growers, and testing your green thumb without a major financial investment.

Best Compact Starter

Ohuhu Ohuhu Small Greenhouse 4 Tiers 6 Shelves Walk-In

The undisputed king of urban and small-space starters, boasting over 7,000 verified positive reviews on Amazon. Its powder-coated steel frame and heavy-duty, grid-reinforced PE cover trap warmth while shielding delicate fall seedlings from light frosts. It features heavy-duty metal shelf clips that prevent seedling tray slippage and a zippered roll-up door for quick morning ventilation. A major favorite for beginner growers and space-conscious gardeners. 58"L x 30"W x 77"H | Reinforced PE Cover | 1 Person, 20-min tool-free assembly.

Best Rigid Value Starter

Sanerto Sanerto 6x4ft Walk-In Aluminum Frame, Built-In Thermometer & Hygrometer

An incredible bridge model for gardeners stepping up from flexible plastic tarps to a rigid frame. Built with UV-resistant twin-wall polycarbonate and a rust-proof aluminum frame, it scatters harsh mid-day sunlight to prevent leaf scorch. Includes built-in rain gutters for rainwater harvesting and an adjustable roof vent to regulate humidity. Holds up far better to light snowfall than PVC pop-ups. Praised for great insulation at an approachable price. 6' x 4' x 6.5' | 4mm Polycarbonate | 2 People, 3–5 hours assembly.

Best Walk-In Tunnel

Outsunny Outsunny 13' X 10' Walk-In Heavy Duty Tunnel

A massive favorite across online homesteading forums for providing huge square footage on a modest budget. The galvanized steel arch frame supports a tear-resistant green PE mesh cover with roll-up side windows for cross-ventilation. When anchored down with spiral earth stakes or perimeter sandbags, it easily protects large vegetable beds against seasonal winds. A favorite for winter crop protection and high capacity, and a monster for square footage. 13' x 10' x 6.5' | Reinforced PE Mesh | 1–2 People, 2 hours assembly.

Mid-Range Kits ($350–$1,400)

Rigid aluminum frames and insulating twin-wall polycarbonate designed for year-round growing, severe weather, and frost protection.

Best Compact Kit

Palram Palram Canopia Mythos 6' X 8' Polycarbonate Hang Plants Greenhouse Silver

Excellent for backyard kits. Some online reviews caution that assembly requires patience, but many owners praise its long-term durability once locked together. It combines 100% UV-protected twin-wall roof panels with crystal-clear side walls, withstands 56 mph winds and holds up well against storms. Includes plant hangers and a magnetic door catch, plus a roof vent. 6' x 8' x 7' | 4mm Twin-Wall Polycarbonate | 2 People, 5-6 hours assembly.

Best High Value Walk-In

Wayfair Veikous 6 Ft. X 8 Ft. Aluminum Polycarbonate Walk-In Greenhouse

A top-seller for growers who need ample interior clearance without breaking $500. Its thick twin-wall panels provide excellent heat retention during cold fall nights, while the spacious 8x10 floor plan comfortably accommodates 2 parallel tiers of potting benches alongside overwintering citrus trees. Features smooth-sliding doors and integrated rain gutters. Reviewers love its roomy interior. 8' x 10' x 7.3' | 4mm Twin-Wall & Aluminum | 2 People, 6-8 hours assembly.

Best Rustic Value

Wayfair Outsunny 6.6 X 8 Ft Wooden Polycarbonate Greenhouse With Thickened Panels, Walk-In Greenhouse Kit

Crafted from 100% solid fir wood, this model trades cold industrial aluminum for a traditional aesthetic that blends beautifully into borders. Solid wood offers superior thermal insulation over metal frames, and the 6mm thick polycarbonate panels lock in heat better than thinner starter kits in cold snaps. Reviewers love the frame and the aesthetics. 6.6' x 8' x 6.5' | 6mm Polycarbonate & Fir Wood | 2 People, 5-7 hours assembly.

Premium Greenhouses ($1,500–$3,500)

Engineered lifetime structures featuring architectural timber, heavy-gauge aluminum, and smart utility integrations, treasured by serious growers.

Best Smart Timber Kit

Backyard Discovery Backyard Discovery Willow Cedar Wood Walk-In

For growers seeking timber warmth paired with modern utility, this is a standout premium kit crafted from 100% rot-resistant FSC cedar. What truly sets it apart is its PowerPort electrical pass-through and exterior hose hookups, allowing you to run interior grow lights, heating pads, and automated misting systems without trailing extension cords across your lawn. Includes temperature-activated automatic roof vent openers. Praised for an authentic look with features that serious hobby gardeners love. 6' x 9' x 7.8' | 6mm Twin-Wall & 100% Cedar | 2 People, 8-10 hours assembly.

Best Architectural Feature Kit

Palram Palram Canopia Oasis Hexagon Greenhouse

Designed as a hybrid growing sanctuary and elegant garden sunroom, the hexagonal Oasis features heavy-gauge aluminum framing and high-impact clear side panels offering a 360-degree panoramic view. Overhead twin-wall roof panels diffuse harsh sunlight, while side louver vents and wide double doors maintain optimal airflow on warm afternoons. A major star on Amazon and Home Depot for combining structural elegance with functional growing space. 8' x 8' x 8.7' | Clear Side + Twin-Wall Roof | 2 People, 8-10 hours assembly.

Best Luxury Estate Glasshouse

HOWE Howe 16x12x9.5 Ft Pavilion Styled Greenhouse With Clear Panels And 4 Vents

Delivering the classic English Country Estate aesthetic beloved of the Beckhams, this massive pavilion creates an architectural centerpiece. Its towering 9.5-foot apex peak provides massive head clearance for tall potted fruit trees. Constructed with heavy-duty graphite aluminum truss bracing, multiple roof vents, and swing double doors, it easily divides into dedicated propagation zones and an outdoor seating lounge. Highly rated by Amazon buyers for its breathtaking visual impact and massive interior clearance. 16' x 12' x 9.5' | High-Impact Polycarbonate | 2-3 People, 12-14 hours assembly.

Reality Checks, Rules & Permits

(Image credit: Rory McDonald / Getty Images)

Remember, buying your greenhouse kit is only the first step in creating a long-lasting backyard growing space that will justify your investment. To that end, it’s vital to prevent post-purchase headaches by addressing some real-world logistical “gotchas” before you spend any cash. To avoid costly surprises during assembly, you can calculate the true total cost upfront using this simple budget formula:

True Total Cost = Kit Price + Freight Shipping + Foundation Site Prep + Climate Accessories + Local Permit Fees

Beyond the sticker price, improper ground anchoring is a massive hidden gotcha for new owners because, as Staci and Jeremy Hill caution, an unanchored greenhouse frame acts like a giant kite in severe winds. While lightweight DIY kits promise fast weekend setups, navigating hundreds of structural fasteners and frame alignments can quickly get overwhelming. Be honest about your DIY confidence early and budget for a local landscape contractor if site grading or heavy foundation work is needed.

Also, before you commit to your greenhouse, make sure you have ticked off the following key logistical and structural considerations:

1. Property Line Setbacks & HOA Rules: Before placing an order, consult your local Municipal Zoning Board or County Building Department portal to verify required property line setbacks (typically 5-10 feet/1.5-3 m), as well as maximum height allowances, and local Homeowners Association (HOA) architectural covenants.
2. Utility Permits & Permanent Footings: Be aware that adding hardwired electricity, gas heating, or permanent plumbing lines automatically triggers local building code inspections regardless of the greenhouse size, and plan accordingly.
3. Regional Frost-Line Guidelines: Check your regional State University Cooperative Extension Service (such as USDA Extension) to look up your county’s exact frost-line depth before pouring concrete or setting timber posts.

"Restrictions on building a greenhouse will boggle the mind of the average home gardener," cautions Gardening Know How’s gardening expert and legal authority Teo Spengler. "Generally, if you are putting in a concrete slab foundation for your greenhouse, or even permanent footers, you may need to go through the building permit process. This is also the case if you attach your plumbing or electrical system."

(Image credit: oliakolvitz / Getty Images)

Once those legal permits and site preparations are secured, make sure you do anchor your structure against high winds. Gravity alone will not protect lightweight aluminum frames or polycarbonate panels from severe spring shear winds. "Secure it with some kind of inground framing," recommends Trisha Nieder. "Four 2x2x6 cedar posts placed on each of the four corners, set 2 feet (60 cm) into the ground with 2x4s screwed into the bottom, will keep the greenhouse level and secure against winds."

For larger glass or heavy-duty aluminum builds, deeper footings are essential to prevent structural shifting during seasonal freeze-thaw cycles. "Our latest greenhouses are anchored on 4x4s buried in the ground below the frost line and set in concrete," says Staci Hill. "We attach wall materials directly to those corner posts, alleviating the wind issue entirely."

It’s a lot, absolutely. But it’s good to know this stuff before you buy. While municipal codes and storm anchoring might feel intimidating, there are services out there to help you. And taking time to secure your greenhouse foundations ensures decades of stress-free growing. Once your permits and base frame are locked in place, you are ready for the most exciting step: selecting what to grow! Happy greenhouse shopping…

Frequently Asked QuestionsDo I need a permit to build a backyard greenhouse?

For most residential properties, small unheated modular kits under 100-120 square feet (9.3 to 11.1 m²) are classified as temporary accessory structures and do not require formal building permits. However, tying into municipal water lines or hardwiring electrical sub-panels usually triggers local zoning reviews. "Building permits for residential greenhouses depend on structure size, permanent footings, and utility hookups," says Teo Spengler. "Unattached, temporary kits rarely require permits, but pouring a concrete slab or running electrical conduit typically requires local approval."

What is the best direction to face a greenhouse?

In the northern hemisphere, orienting your greenhouse long side facing south (an east-west axis) maximizes low-angled winter sunlight for year-round growing. If nearby mature trees, garages, or house walls block southern exposure, a north-south orientation provides uniform light distribution in peak summer months. "Positioning the long side toward the south maximizes low-angled winter sunlight," explains Shane Pliska. "This keeps internal temperatures higher during the coldest months of the year without extra heating costs."

Can you grow vegetables in an unheated greenhouse all winter?

You can, provided you cultivate frost-tolerant cold-hardy crops like spinach, kale, winter lettuce, and radishes rather than warm-season crops. Unheated glazing acts as a windbreaker and provides a passive thermal buffer, raising internal temperatures by 5-10°F (3-6°C warmer than outside), protecting crops against killing frosts. "An unheated greenhouse won't keep tomatoes alive in January, but pairing your structure with internal frost cloth over low hoops lets you harvest hardy greens all winter long," says Anna Ohler.

How do I anchor a greenhouse against strong wind gusts?

Lightweight aluminum frames can easily catch wind like a kite during 40+ mph spring storms if merely rested on topsoil. Base frames must be bolted down to concrete slabs, secured to heavy 4x4 pressure-treated timber sleepers, or pinned into deep earth auger anchors. "Never rely on gravity alone," warn Staci and Jeremy Hill. "Securing your base frame to pressure-treated wooden posts buried below the frost line or using heavy auger earth anchors is essential for surviving spring storms."

How do I control humidity and prevent mold or mildew?

Excess internal moisture breeds devastating fungal pathogens. "Powder-coated frames and twin-wall panels keep heat in, but stagnant air breeds botrytis and powdery mildew," explains Bethany Lakatos. Combat high humidity by running lower wall louvers alongside automatic roof vents, and applying drip irrigation to root zones rather than spraying foliage. "Watering early in the morning also keeps canopy humidity balanced," says Bethany.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Fill a feeder in the morning, and by afternoon a squirrel may be hanging upside down from it, cheeks stuffed. Here's the good news, though. There are some types of bird seed that squirrels don't enjoy – but they still bring in plenty of songbirds.

Good bird feeding isn't only about what goes in the feeder, though. Pair the right seed with smart bird feeder ideas, and you'll make life much harder for determined squirrels. Where the feeder hangs, how it's built, and what spills beneath it all affect how often squirrels show up. Fall makes this especially timely, as squirrels spend the season gathering and stashing food, and a full feeder is an easy stop on their rounds.

The three seeds I've covered here all get left alone more often than sunflower does, but that's no promise – a hungry enough squirrel will taste just about anything once. Pair the new seed with a better spot for the feeder, and the birds get more of each fill.

Why Squirrels Keep Raiding Bird Feeders

So why do squirrels keep coming back? Eastern gray squirrels (Sciurus carolinensis) like a lot of what birds like. Sunflower seeds are a favorite, and corn and peanuts may tempt them even more. That's bad news for anyone buying bargain bags, since cheap mixes often lean on sunflower and corn.

Squirrels are also gifted athletes. From a roof, branch, or fence, a squirrel can cover about 10 feet (3 m) in one leap, and from the ground it can spring roughly 5 feet (1.5 m) straight up. That's why squirrel-proof feeders and baffles can make such a difference. Any feeder within reach of those launch points is fair game, no matter what seed it holds.

Shop Squirrel-Proof Feeders

Niser Squirrel-Proof Bird Mesh Bird Feeder

Kingsyard Squirrel-Proof Double Suet Feeder

Wildpark Squirrel-Proof Metal Hanging Bird Feeder

The 3 Seeds Squirrels Are Less Likely to Steal

1. Safflower

Safflower looks like a small white sunflower seed with a thick shell. Squirrels usually pass it by, and so do house sparrows and starlings, for the most part. In some areas, squirrels have picked up a taste for it anyway. Pick up a bag of Wagner's Safflower Seed Wild Bird Food on Amazon.

2. Nyjer

Despite the old “thistle” label, nyjer has nothing to do with North American thistles. It comes from an African plant. Those tiny black seeds rank among the seeds squirrels don’t like much. Use a feeder with very small ports and serve it by itself, not in a mix, or a lot of it ends up wasted. Kaytee sells quality nyjer seed at a reasonable price.

3. White Proso Millet

White proso millet is the pale little seed that fills out most budget blends. Squirrels will eat it, but with corn or peanuts on offer, they usually go for those first. That's why a mix that leans hard on millet tends to lose their attention sooner. If you buy it on its own, pick white, like this Morning Bird White Proso Millet. Birds will choose it over red.

(Image credit: Algirdas Gelazius / Shutterstock)Which Birds Each Seed Attracts

Cardinals go for safflower more than most. Grosbeaks, chickadees, titmice, nuthatches, and mourning doves eat it, too. There is a catch, though: plenty of birds still prefer sunflower, and a feeder switched straight to safflower may get quieter. Mix a little safflower into the current seed and raise the share over time for an easier switch.

Nyjer is finch food. Goldfinches crowd it, both American and lesser, and house finches, pine siskins, and redpolls show up as well.

Millet works from the ground up. Juncos and native sparrows are the regulars, with towhees and mourning doves close behind, and cardinals will pick at it, too.

How to Offer These Seeds

Each seed does best in its own feeder. Safflower goes in a hopper, tube, or platform feeder without any trouble. For nyjer, you’ll want tiny ports or fine mesh, like this Kingsyard feeder from Amazon.

Millet belongs low, on the ground or a low tray that drains well, where juncos and native sparrows forage. A 10-pound (4.5 kg) bag of plain white millet makes a fine start. Go easy on the amount. Seed still lying around at dusk means you overdid it, and squirrels will happily clean it up.

(Image credit: Carla Elaine Mason / Shutterstock)Where to Place a Bird Feeder to Discourage Squirrels

Distance comes first. Give a pole-mounted feeder at least 10 feet (3 m) of open air between it and the nearest tree, fence, roof, or deck. Height matters as well – about 5 feet (1.5m) up keeps it out of a ground jump. If you’re buying a pole, a heavy-duty 76-inch adjustable shepherd’s hook from Home Depot sits on a seven-prong base that stays put in soft soil.

Then add a baffle. On a pole, it goes below the feeder so squirrels can’t climb past it – for a feeder hanging near trees, a dome-style baffle goes above instead. This Koralakiri 19-Inch Squirrel Baffle from Walmart will do the job nicely.

(Image credit: Philippe Gerber / Getty Images)Other Ways to Make a Bird Feeder Less Appealing to Squirrels

The feeder itself can do some of the work. Weight-activated models close their seed ports when anything heavier than a songbird climbs on. With the Brome Squirrel Buster Classic from Amazon, a squirrel’s own weight pulls the shroud down. Hang it with roughly 18 inches (46 cm) of open space all around.

Caged designs take a different approach. The iron cage around this Veehoo caged tube feeder keeps squirrels at arm’s length from its four feeding ports. A seed tray under a tube feeder catches spills before they reach the ground. Keep spare seed sealed, too – a lidded metal or plastic container works well to keep pests out.

(Image credit: Giedriius / Shutterstock)What Not to Add to Bird Seed

Leave sticky and greasy tricks alone. Sticky coatings meant for squirrels can just as easily trap a chickadee. Grease is no better. Smear petroleum jelly or cooking oil on a pole, and it mats fur and feathers alike – a bird with matted feathers loses the insulation it needs on cold nights.

Hot-pepper seed is the other common shortcut. Birds don’t feel the heat of capsaicin, but squirrels do. It burns their mouths and causes real discomfort, which is a fair reason to leave it on the shelf. Skip salty or sugary kitchen scraps, too. Both can hurt small birds.

Squirrels won’t vanish from the yard, and that’s fine – they’re fun to watch when they aren’t eating the cardinals’ dinner. Give them a seed they don’t love and a feeder they can’t reach, and more of each bag ends up where it belongs.

The Christmas cactus is an extremely popular holiday plant that seems to bloom forever, offering some of the most exotic-looking flowers in the plant kingdom. It takes second place only to the Christmas tree in terms of plants associated with the holidays. And it’s a tropical cactus that doesn’t have needles that get all over the carpet!

When it’s not playing a starring role in Santa season, this beautiful plant can keep on looking lush and lovely in spring, summer, and fall with proper Christmas cactus care. However, while it's an easy houseplant to grow, getting it to produce another spectacular holiday flower display takes a little more planning than simply keeping it alive.

October is when that preparation begins. The shorter days and cooler nights help trigger bud formation, but a few simple care tasks can make all the difference to the quality of this year's display. Here are five essential autumn care steps for Schlumbergera × buckleyi (also sold as Schlumbergera bridgesii) to encourage healthy growth and plenty of buds for December. You can also use this advice on the other main type of holiday cactus, the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata).

1. Bring on the Dark

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Holiday prep for your Christmas cactus starts in October. This is the single most important step if you want to enjoy the same fabulous display of blooms you had the previous year. The key is striking the right balance between daylight and complete darkness.

Starting in October, control the amount of daylight your plant receives. To trigger bud formation, a Christmas cactus needs around 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness every night. It won't mind whether that darkness comes from being placed in a spare room or closet, as long as no light reaches it.

You can also simply cover it with an opaque box or a black fabric grow bag, such as these 5-gallon black grow bags from Amazon, which are large enough to fit over most mature Christmas cacti while still allowing plenty of airflow.

After its nightly blackout, return the plant to a spot with bright, indirect light for the remaining 12 hours of the day.

2. Keep Things Cool

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This cactus may look like a beautiful holiday decoration, but don't forget – it's a real plant. If you only want to enjoy it for one season, that's your choice. But if you want your Christmas cactus to bloom year after year, you need to provide the right conditions before it flowers.

In the wild, Christmas cacti spend the early months of winter in cooler conditions, and this drop in temperature helps stimulate bud formation. That means now isn't the time to display your plant in front of a crackling fire. Instead, keep it in a room where temperatures stay between 50–55°F (10–13°C). Don't let it get too warm, but don't let it get too cold either.

3. Water Can Wait

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Do you hear the term "cactus" and think of the Sonoran Desert? Yes, some cacti are native to arid climates and require infrequent watering, but others, like the Christmas cactus, call the tropical rainforest home.

Even so, autumn should be a relatively dry period in the life of a Christmas cactus. In the wild, this is a season with little rainfall, so don't flood the plant now. Stop the weekly watering routine and make sure the pot isn't sitting in a saucer of water.

Instead, check the soil every week to see if it has dried out. Push your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle, and only water if it feels dry at that depth. If you'd rather take the guesswork out of watering, an inexpensive XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is a worthwhile investment. It gives an instant reading of moisture levels below the surface, helping you avoid the overwatering that can prevent Christmas cacti from setting buds.

4. Hold the Fertilizer

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Okay, we get it. There are a lot of directions to follow if you want your Christmas cactus to burst into bloom for the holidays. But many of them involve not doing things: no lights at night, no warm room, less water, and... no fertilizer.

Stop fertilizing your Christmas cactus completely in October and November. Fertilizer encourages leafy growth, and that's not what you want at this stage. Instead, the plant needs to direct its energy into setting flower buds for the holiday season.

Once flowering has finished and your plant resumes active growth in spring, you can start feeding again with a balanced houseplant fertilizer, such as this TPS Nutrients Christmas Cactus Fertilizer. Regular feeding through spring and summer will help support healthy stems and set your Christmas cactus up for another spectacular display next winter.

5. Watch for Flower Buds

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

After a few weeks, start checking your Christmas cactus every day for developing buds. A good time to do this is each morning when you move it from its dark location back into bright, indirect light. The buds will first appear as tiny, brightly colored points at the tips of the flattened stems.

As soon as you spot the first buds, your care routine changes. The nightly 12-hour blackout has done its job and is no longer needed. Move the plant to a bright, warm spot, where the buds can continue to develop into the spectacular flowers that make Christmas cacti such a holiday favorite.

Christmas Cactus Care Essentials

Vivosun 5-Pack 5 Gallon Plant Grow Bags Fabric Pots With Handles

Xlux Plant Soil Moisture Meter

TPS Plant Foods Christmas Cactus Fertilizer

Furniture that doesn’t try too hard does feel particularly West Coast.

Warm wood, natural stone, useful storage and simple forms tend to feel more at home here than anything overly polished or precious. It’s a sensibility that Vancouver company Sundays and Sophie Burke Design have put forward in Harbour, Sundays’ first full collection collaboration.

Including pieces for the bedroom, living room, dining room and home office, Harbour was conceived as a collection for the whole home rather than a single statement piece.

For Sophie Burke, principal of Vancouver-based Sophie Burke Design, the appeal of working with Sundays was partly that shared emphasis on livability.

“I love how approachable Sundays furniture is. It’s beautiful and carefully considered, but also warm and relaxed. It’s designed for real life, which appeals to me,” she says.

A West Coast point of view

The collection draws on familiar materials — walnut, pale oak, Carrara marble and teak — but its West Coast character is less literal than simply placing nature-inspired motifs on furniture.

Burke says living and working in Vancouver has inevitably influenced how she thinks about interiors.

“We’re surrounded by ocean, mountains and forest, and I think that naturally draws us towards materials that feel tactile and authentic, and colours and forms that are quieter and more restrained,” says Burke.

That influence also extends to how people actually use their homes.

“There’s an informality to the way people live here that was important to me — I wanted the furniture to feel beautiful and considered, but also relaxed, comfortable and easy to live with,” she says.

For Harbour, that translated into straightforward forms, natural materials and furniture intended to last beyond a decorating cycle.

Noah Morse, co-founder and head of product at Sundays, sees the same quality in contemporary Canadian design.

“I think there’s a confidence in West Coast design right now that doesn’t need to be loud. Harbour is warm and understated, with natural materials and really considered proportions,” he says.

Morse and Burke’s connection goes back years in Vancouver.

In his twenties, Morse worked at Inform Interiors, where Burke was a client. Years later, after Sundays launched, he discovered she had begun specifying some of the company’s furniture in her own projects.

“When I heard she was interested in expanding into furniture design, I jumped at the opportunity,” Morse says.

Rather than attach a designer’s name to one or two products, Sundays wanted the collaboration to extend across an entire collection.

“With Sophie, there was such a natural alignment in how we think about home, materials and longevity that the opportunity was there to build an entire collection together, rather than just one or two pieces,” he says.

Burke says clients increasingly want spaces that are functional, personal and comfortable.

“I think fall and winter are times when people begin spending more time in their homes again. They are looking for their homes to be functional with spaces that really work for their needs.”

Morse sees a similar shift away from rapid decorating cycles.

“There’s so much available to us now, and trends move incredibly quickly, but I think the response to that is a desire for ‘fewer, better things,’ meaning pieces with real materials, warmth and longevity that can become part of your life rather than being replaced when the next trend arrives.”

The most important thing is to choose pieces you really love rather than what feels current, says Burke.

Good proportions, robust materials and classic lines matter too, particularly when furniture needs to work with different rooms, art and objects collected over time.

“I’m a big believer that everything in your home should have a reason for being there. I feel that way about my own home, right down to the cutlery,” says Morse.

Favourite pieces from this collection

For Burke, it is the Harbour Bookshelf, which combines open shelving with closed storage.

The appeal lies partly in its ability to accommodate the realities of everyday life: cupboards conceal what doesn’t need displaying, while open sections create what Burke describes as “‘frames’ for books, art, and the objects you collect over time,” she says.

Morse chooses the Harbour Desk.

“It feels very distinctly Sophie — understated and refined with just enough detail to give it character without feeling over-designed,” he says.

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Kristin Davis has long been beloved (how many of us have referred to ourselves, unironically, as 'a Charlotte' based on her performance in Sex And The City? Thought so!), but her latest plant update has cemented her place in our hearts forever.

Now, celebrity homes usually have a funny way of making gardening look effortless. The gardens are immaculate, the houseplants are enormous, glossy and seemingly incapable of dropping a single leaf, and somehow every corner looks like it belongs in a magazine.

It can all feel a little unattainable if you (like so many people, whether they care to admit it or not) spend your life googling the easiest and hardest-to-kill houseplants, which is why Kristin's latest plant update is so strangely reassuring.

Meet Theo, Kristin Davis's Fiddle Leaf Fig

Kristin Davis recently posted an Instagram video – not the actor, but her fiddle-leaf fig, which she named after him. Objectively, it's an excellent name for a plant this dramatic, and Kristin clearly has a soft spot for her leafy namesake.

Unfortunately, Theo isn't doing so well. Indeed, in the video, Kristin asks her followers for advice after noticing that the ends of his leaves have started to turn yellow and brown. She has a couple of theories of her own, wondering whether he might have overheated during the summer or whether it's time to move him into a bigger pot, but (as so many people have rushed to reassure her in the comments) the good news is that Theo is almost certainly not dying.

The less good news? Those yellowing leaves and brown tips could be signs of more than one problem, and with fiddle-leaf figs – a plant famous for being a little dramatic – that's perhaps not entirely surprising. So, if your own fiddle-leaf fig is looking less than fabulous, don't panic. Here's how to work out what's causing yellowing leaves and brown tips, and what you can do to get your plant looking healthy again.

What the Brown and Yellow Leaf Tips Are Telling You

(Image credit: Katherin Stanley / Getty Images)

One of the most common complaints about fiddle leaf figs is brown and yellow leaf edges. Unfortunately, this can mean several things have gone wrong all at the same time, and that’s just one part of what can make this plant as difficult as a two-year-old. In Theo’s case (the plant, not the actor), based on Kristin’s own diagnosis, the most likely culprit is a combination of underwatering, heat stress, and possibly being root-bound in a pot that’s too small.

That’s a lot of issues, but here’s how to tell them apart. Yellowing that spreads from the edges toward the center, combined with browning tips, usually points to inconsistent watering. Either the fiddle leaf fig has dried out too much between waterings or got way too much water after not getting enough for a while.

Heat stress can cause similar symptoms: If the plant sat in a hot spot all summer, especially near a south-facing window or close to a heat source, the leaf margins are often the first thing to show it. A root-bound plant (one where the roots have filled the whole pot with nowhere to go) will show this stress across the whole plant.

Shop Fiddle Leaf Fig Essentials:

Improves aeration

Westland Gro-Sure Perlite 10L

Perlite is a great addition that will encourage healthy root growth and improve aeration and drainage, key elements for your fiddle leaf fig this month.

No batteries required

Verve Multi-tester

This soil multi-meter is the perfect tool for checking whether you've over or under watered. All you need to do is pop it in and see what the display says.

White washed

Verve Mali Matt White Washed Terracotta Plant Pot, 53cm dia, 60cm in height, 68L

Terracotta pots are the better option as they allow roots to breathe better than plastic options – and we think they look much nicer too! Pop a plate or terracotta saucer underneath for inside use.

This can include yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and soil that dries out unusually fast, and all three of these things can be happening at the same time.

We guess Theo leans toward being slightly dramatic and complicated, like most actors.

So, Should Kristin Repot?

(Image credit: Bogdan Kurylo / Getty Images)

So, should Kristin repot that fiddle-leaf fig? Probably yes, but very carefully. It’s one of those plants that does better slightly root-bound rather than freshly repotted in a pot that’s too large. Too much soil can mean too much moisture retention, which in turn increases the risk of roots rotting. The best thing to do would be to go up in pot size, but just by one. For example, if Theo is currently in a 10-inch pot, a 12-inch pot would be your target, not 14.

Use a well-draining potting mix, and do it when the plant is in an active growth phase rather than when it’s already in distress. Leave it completely alone for at least 4 weeks while it gets adjusted.

If repotting isn’t an option at the moment, lift the plant out of its pot gently and check the roots. If they’re circling around the bottom too tightly, or poking out of the drainage holes, that’s your confirmation that the pot is too small, and it’s worth repotting sooner rather than later.

Fixing the Watering

(Image credit: Viktoriya Skorikova / Getty Images)

When it comes to a fiddle leaf fig, the golden rule is consistency. Stick your finger 2 inches into the soil, and if it still feels damp, leave it. Water it well when it’s dry, and let the excess drain out completely without letting the pot sit in standing water.

The plant’s water needs drop significantly in fall and winter as the growing phase becomes slower, so adjust your schedule accordingly.

Dealing With the Heat Damage

(Image credit: Rawpixel / Getty Images)

Once the leaves become brown and yellow on the edges, they won’t recover, and the damage has been done. But once you fix the underlying cause and the plant is otherwise healthy, new growth should come in nice and clean. Kristin should move Theo away from any direct sun or heat source and consider how dry the indoor air is in fall and winter: central heating can lower humidity, and it’s one of the fastest ways to get crispy leaf edges on a fiddle leaf fig. A low-maintenance fix for this is a pebble tray filled with water underneath the pot.

The brown and yellow tips won’t disappear, but Kristin’s fiddle leaf fig will certainly recover. With a slightly bigger pot, consistent watering, and being kept away from the radiator, he should be in good shape... a general rule of thumb which kind of applies to a lot of things, actually.

Hydroponic gardening is having a moment. The clever growing method is popping up in homes as people look for new ways to grow fresh produce in small spaces, and Zooey Deschanel is firmly on board.

The New Girl actor recently shared a glimpse of her own hydroponic setup on on Instagram, and honestly? It's a pretty compelling demonstration of why hydroponics has captured the attention of so many home growers.

The idea is simple: just like Zooey, you can grow plants (including vegetables!) without soil, using nutrient-rich water instead. Better still, many systems are compact enough to sit inside your home, which means you don't necessarily need a garden, a huge amount of outdoor space or even particularly green fingers to give it a go.

Let's Talk Hydroponics

The world of hydroponics is packed full of benefits, although there's no getting away from the fact that some of the sleekest hydroponic systems can come with a decidedly un-sleek price tag.

The good news? You don't need a celebrity budget like Zooey Deschanel to try the trend for yourself. In fact, there are now plenty of smaller and more affordable hydroponic kits like this one available on Amazon, making it possible to experiment with growing your own herbs and vegetables without immediately spending hundreds.

Keen to learn more about them and why they're a great choice for hands-off gardening? I spoke to a plant pro all about them to expand on why they are a great choice, as well as to learn about some of their potential drawbacks. Here's what they had to say.

A post shared by Zooey Deschanel (@zooeydeschanel)

A photo posted by

What Are Hydropnic Systems?

Put simply, hydroponics is a way of growing plants without soil. Instead, plants are grown in a contained system where their roots have access to water infused with the nutrients they need to thrive.

The water is circulated around the system, often with the help of an air pump. This helps ensure the roots receive enough oxygen and prevents the water from becoming stagnant. Many hydroponic systems are also paired with grow lights to ensure any outdoor sunlight that the plants would otherwise be obtaining is supplemented.

It sounds futuristic, but the principle is actually pretty straightforward: rather than relying on soil to deliver nutrients and water to a plant's roots, a hydroponic system delivers them directly (which is incredibly appealing).

What system was Zooey advertising?

The system on Zooey's Instagram page is the Farmstand Nook model, created by the hydroponic company Lettuce Grow which she co-founded.

It's designed to be space-saving, standing vertically to tuck into even the smallest home corner, and it features numerous tiers to care for and display your plants simultaneously.

Zooey sat her hydroponic system in her breakfast nook, which is an ideal place to put one if you're hoping to make the most out of bringing the outdoors indoors. It'll greet you in the morning and you can just sit back and enjoy co-existing with the plants in your space while the hydroponic system does most of the work.

Why Is Everyone Suddenly Talking About Hydroponics?

One of the biggest advantages of hydroponics is how efficiently it can use space and resources. "Hydroponic systems typically use far less water than traditional growing methods because water is recirculated in a contained system rather than lost into the surrounding soil," says Elizabeth Waddington of First Tunnels.

A major pro point Elizabeth shared with me is how well hydroponic systems and their contained nature optimize the impact of what you're giving to your greenery.

That could make hydroponics particularly appealing to anyone who wants to grow their own food but doesn't have a traditional garden. Especially as, per Elizabeth's thoughts, hydroponic systems are a great space-saving choice, with tall-slim models being perfect for even the smallest of apartments. They also serve as an amazing alternative "where access to garden soil is limited or non-existent."

Shop Hydroponic Systems:

Ahopegarden Hydroponics Growing System

LETPOT Max 21-Pod Hydroponic Growing System Kits

Ahopegarden Hydroponics Growing System Kit: 12 Pods With Lcd Control Panel

The Farmstand Nook featured on Zooey Deschanel's Instagram is made by Lettuce Grow, the company she co-founded, and is designed to grow vertically rather than taking up a large footprint horizontally.

Zooey has placed hers in her breakfast nook, making it as much a part of her home as it is a growing system. It's a particularly appealing idea if you're interested in bringing more greenery indoors, because instead of hiding your plants away in a garden, you get to see them every day.

And while the Nook is an impressive example of what hydroponic growing can look like, you certainly don't need to replicate Zooey's setup to join the trend, as the kits above all prove.

What Are The Drawbacks?

As appealing as hydroponics sounds, it isn't completely maintenance-free, and it's worth knowing that before investing. The main issue is that your plants are entirely reliant on the system continuing to work properly.

"Because plants rely entirely on the system, equipment failures can become serious quickly," Elizabeth explains. "A failed pump or prolonged power outage can stress or damage crops in a relatively short time."

That's something you don't necessarily have to worry about when growing a plant in a pot of soil. If you forget about a tomato plant for a while, it's still sitting there in its soil. A hydroponic plant is much more dependent on its growing environment continuing to function as it should.

For that reason, Elizabeth recommends keeping a backup air pump on hand, as well as plenty of nutrient solution so you can top up your system when needed. So, while hydroponics can certainly make growing more efficient, it isn't quite a case of setting up your system and forgetting about it.

What's Best Suited To Growing In A Hydroponic System?

Here's Elizabeth's breakdown of some of the best crops to grow in a hydroponic system. You'll be surprised by how versatile the list is!

• Leafy greens are among the easiest and most productive crops. Lettuce, spinach, kale, rocket, and Asian greens generally thrive in hydroponic systems and can produce abundant harvests throughout the year.
• Herbs are another excellent choice. Basil, parsley, coriander, mint, chives, and dill all perform particularly well, making hydroponics ideal for kitchen gardeners seeking a steady supply of fresh flavour.
• Fruit-bearing crops can also be successful. Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and strawberries are commonly grown hydroponically, especially in greenhouse environments. However, these crops usually require more support, careful nutrient management, and greater attention to pollination.

Ahopegarden Indoor Garden Hydroponics Growing System Kit

LETPOT Hydroponics Growing System Kit

Alto Garden Gx Hydroponic Tower

If Zooey Deschanel's setup has left you wondering whether hydroponics could work in your own home, the answer may be yes... particularly if you don't have much outdoor space. Yes, a large and beautifully designed system might be the celebrity-approved dream, but a small hydroponic kit?

Why, that can give you a chance to see whether you actually enjoy growing this way before making a bigger investment. Maybe dip your toes into the trend for considerably less than the cost of a full-size system, and see how it works for you.

Maintaining a large property with multiple garden beds means spending countless hours tackling seasonal pruning tasks, and having reliable tools makes all the difference. I've also spent years growing and pruning hydrangeas – my favorite plants and the reason my friends and colleagues now call me the "Hydrangea Queen." With shrubs that flower on old wood, clean, precise cuts are essential, so I don't take my choice of pruners lightly.

Fiskars has been making quality cutting tools for as long as I can remember, and its 5/8-inch Cut Capacity Bypass Pruning Shears are exactly what I've come to expect from the brand. They're among the best garden pruners I've used, delivering clean, smooth bypass cuts that help minimize damage to your plants.

As a former garden center manager, I've sold and evaluated just about every type of gardening tool on the market, so I know what separates a good pair of pruners from one that's not worth your money. These affordable Fiskars pruners are available on Amazon, where they've earned more than 42,000 five-star reviews, and they're the real deal.

Product Specifications

Type

Bypass hand pruners

Maximum cut capacity

5/8 inch (16 mm)

Blade material

Precision-ground steel with low-friction coating

Handle

Ergonomic, non-slip grip

Opening mechanism

Spring-loaded

Special features

Self-cleaning sap groove, blade lock for safe storage

Weight

9.4 oz (266 g)

Hand orientation

Left and right

Average price

$13–$18

Warranty

Lifetime

(Image credit: Amy Draiss)How I Tested Them

I reach for these pruners time and time again because they're comfortable, easy to maneuver, and capable of tackling just about any pruning task I throw at them. I've put them to the test on unruly rose branches, thick hydrangea stems, general deadheading, and cleaning up my perennials (I have a few too many to admit) in both spring and fall.

I've also come to appreciate the little details that really matter, especially during those marathon pruning sessions. The spring-loaded opening mechanism comes in handy because the blades automatically reopen after each cut, reducing the amount of work my hand has to do. Any tool with features that can help reduce hand fatigue is a win in my book.

(Image credit: Amy Draiss)Performance

The sharp, precision-ground steel blades are the main draw here. They're strong enough to handle branches up to 5/8 inch in diameter, yet the bypass pruning action is gentle enough for delicate new growth, helping minimize plant damage and promote healthier plants. Clean cuts really do matter, and these consistently deliver them.

One feature I've especially come to appreciate is the self-cleaning sap groove. It helps prevent sticky sap from building up and gumming up the blades, allowing for cleaner cuts and longer-lasting performance without having to stop and wipe the blades nearly as often.

(Image credit: Amy Draiss)Design & Comfort

Comfort is one of the biggest reasons I keep coming back to these pruners. They're lightweight, easy to maneuver, and the ergonomic handles feel comfortable even after extended periods of pruning.

They also lock closed, keeping the blades protected and making the pruners easier to store in a tool bag or drawer. It reduces the chance of accidentally reaching for an open blade – always a welcome feature when you’re working with sharp tools.

Anything I Didn't Like?

These pruners are designed as an everyday garden tool rather than a heavy-duty pair of loppers, so it's important not to ask too much of them. While they'll comfortably cut stems and branches up to 5/8 inch (16 mm) thick, anything larger is better tackled with a different tool.

The lightweight construction is another reason they're so comfortable to use, but gardeners who prefer the heft and longevity of premium forged pruners may find they don't feel quite as substantial. For the price, though, it's a compromise I'm more than happy to make.

(Image credit: Amy Draiss)Should You Buy Them?

I’ve handled a lot of gardening tools over the years, including plenty of pruners that cost considerably more than these. Despite their affordable price, the Fiskars 5/8-inch Cut Capacity Bypass Pruning Shears remain my go-to pruners five years on, simply because they work so well. With proper care, this pair will easily last you for many, many years.

If you need a comfortable, dependable pair of pruning shears for everything from deadheading and perennials to roses and shrubs, I'd happily recommend them. They offer exceptional value for money and are a pair I reach for time and time again.

How Do They Compare?

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Gardeners looking for a premium option should consider the Felco 6, which were rated best pruners in our testing. They deliver a sharper cutting experience and are built to last for many years with proper maintenance, but you'll pay a significant premium compared to the Fiskars.

Gonicc 8" Professional Premium Bypass Titanium Pruning Shears

Offering a slightly larger 3/4-inch cutting capacity than the Fiskars, these titanium-coated bypass pruners are a great value option. The ergonomic handles and anti-stick sap groove make them comfortable to use during longer pruning sessions.

Opinel Pruning Shears

Crafted in France, these pruners offer adjustable cutting widths for added comfort. Their attractive mixed-material construction includes a beechwood handle and is best suited to moderately thick plant stems.

Plenty of homeowners shut off their sprinklers in fall and call it done. That valve keeps new water out, but the water in the pipes, valves, and heads stays put. If you’re wondering how to winterize sprinklers, start by getting that water out.

In-ground lawn irrigation systems hold water in spots a shutoff can’t reach, including the valves, low points in buried pipe, and the backflow preventer. Frozen water expands, and plastic pipe, fittings, and sprinkler cases can crack under that pressure.

A sprinkler blowout isn’t hard, but you shouldn’t rush it. Too much pressure can pop nozzles off and damage pipe, and compressed air is rough on eyes. Lots of homeowners handle it themselves while preparing the garden for winter. Some systems are better off with a pro, though.

Why Turning Off Your Sprinklers Isn’t Enough

So why isn’t the shutoff enough? Water swells by about one-eleventh as it freezes at 32°F (0°C), with enough force to burst pipes and crack valves or sprinkler casings. Electric valves are another problem. They hold water above an internal diaphragm, and only compressed air pushes it out.

Drain valves help, but they don’t catch everything. They count on evenly sloped pipe, and buried lines shift over time and trap water in low spots. Skip the blowout, and you may find split fittings and cracked valves at spring start-up.

When to Winterize Your Sprinkler System

Plan to winterize your sprinkler system before your area's first hard freeze. In colder regions, that often means tackling the job in early to mid-fall. An established lawn won't be harmed if you shut off the irrigation a little early – it will green up again once watering resumes in spring.

Backflow preventers and exposed pipework are the first parts of the system at risk because they're exposed to freezing air, while buried pipes are vulnerable only after prolonged cold drives frost deep into the ground. In some mild-winter regions, irrigation systems aren't designed with a blowout port because draining the above-ground components is usually enough. In these areas, simply shutting off the water supply, turning off the controller, and draining exposed parts may be all that's required.

What You’ll Need

Air Compressor

Craftsman 20-Gallon Vertical Air Compressor (175 PSI)

Adaptor Kit

Hourleey Sprinkler Winterizing Blowout Adapter Kit With Shut Off Valve

Adjustable Wrench

Husky 10-Inch Adjustable Wrench

• Air compressor: You'll need an air compressor with enough airflow (CFM) to push water out of the sprinkler lines. Airflow is more important than maximum PSI, and a larger tank means you won't have to stop as often to let the compressor refill. I recommend the Craftsman 20-Gallon Vertical Air Compressor, available on Amazon, which delivers 5 CFM at 40 PSI – plenty for most residential sprinkler systems when blowing out one zone at a time.
• Sprinkler blowout adapter: You'll need an adapter to connect the compressor hose to your system's blowout port. I like the Hourleey Sprinkler Blowout Adapter Kit, available on Amazon, which includes durable brass fittings and a quick-connect adapter compatible with most home irrigation systems.
• Safety glasses: Always wear eye protection when blowing out sprinkler lines. A pair of NoCry Safety Glasses is a good option.
• Adjustable wrench: Keep a 10-inch wrench handy for loosening caps and fittings. I use this Husky adjustable wrench from Home Depot.

How to Winterize In-Ground Sprinklers

1. Turn Off the Water Supply
   Start by closing the water supply. It's often a stop-and-waste valve in a basement or underground box. Don't force it. If you're unsure how to drain sprinkler lines, look for manual drain valves at the low points or ends of each line and open them. Drain any pump, too, and store it indoors.
2. Connect the Air Compressor
   Attach your sprinkler blowout adapter to the blowout fitting just downstream of the backflow preventer, then connect the air compressor hose. Close the isolation valve downstream of the backflow preventer first, as air should never be forced back through the backflow device.
3. Blow Out Each Zone
   Open one irrigation zone at the controller, then slowly increase the air pressure until only a fine mist and air come out of the sprinkler heads.
4. Repeat and Finish Up
   Turn the compressor off before switching zones, and give each zone two passes. When you're finished, leave the backflow preventer's ball valves and test cocks half-open to prevent trapped water from causing damage over winter.

(Image credit: Getty Images)How Much Air Pressure Should You Use?

Don't focus on pressure alone, though. Airflow (CFM) is just as important, as it determines how much water the compressor can push out of the pipes. A compressor with too little airflow may leave water trapped in low spots, increasing the risk of freeze damage.

For many residential irrigation systems, around 5 CFM is sufficient when blowing out one zone at a time. The Craftsman Vertical Air Compressor I recommended above is rated at 5 CFM (142L per minute) at 40 psi (276kPa).

(Image credit: Getty Images)Why Sprinkler Blowouts Can Be Dangerous

Wear safety glasses throughout the process. Air blasting from an open fitting can send water, grit, and small debris flying fast enough to cause eye injuries. Keep clear of sprinkler heads, valve boxes, and risers while the system is pressurized. If you have pets, it's also a good idea to keep them indoors, as the sudden bursts of air and loud whistling from the sprinkler heads can be startling.

Air should never be forced against a closed valve, so always open one irrigation zone before switching on the compressor. Once a zone is clear, don't keep blowing air through it. Running compressed air through dry pipes for too long can generate heat through friction, potentially damaging sprinkler heads, fittings, and seals. Likewise, never force compressed air through a backflow preventer, as it can damage the internal components.

When to Hire a Professional

If your irrigation system doesn't have a blowout fitting downstream of the backflow preventer, you'll need to install one before you can safely blow out the lines. Some systems also require more specialist knowledge. For example, reduced-pressure (RP) backflow preventers need to be partially disassembled and drained, while large irrigation systems or those with extensive polyethylene pipe can be more difficult to clear with a typical home compressor.

Professionals use high-volume commercial compressors that move far more air than most homeowner models, allowing them to clear larger systems more efficiently. They can also winterize the backflow preventer during the same visit. When hiring a contractor, look for one certified through the Irrigation Association or EPA WaterSense program. If you already use a lawn care or landscaping company, check whether sprinkler winterization is included in your seasonal maintenance package.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What to Do With the System Over Winter

Leave the irrigation controller plugged in and set it to Off or Rain Mode. That may sound counterintuitive, but the transformer's small amount of heat can help reduce moisture buildup and corrosion.

Insulate any exposed pipework and above-ground shutoff valves, but don't block the vents or drain openings on the backflow preventer. For outdoor spigots, Frost King Foam Faucet Covers, available at Walmart, offer an easy way to add extra freeze protection.

If your backflow preventer is installed above ground, consider covering it with an insulated cover, such as this backflow preventer cover from Modern Leisure, available on Amazon. Just remember that a cover provides extra insulation – it doesn't replace properly draining and blowing out the system before winter.

When spring arrives, close the test cocks, open the ball valves slowly to avoid water hammer, and run each irrigation zone to check for leaks or cracked sprinkler heads. If any need replacing, Rain Bird 1800 Series pop-up spray heads from Ace Hardware are a reliable replacement for many residential systems.

Water that isn't in the pipes can't freeze in them. Remove it before winter, and spring start-up should be little more than a slow turn of the valve and a quick system check.

We all love a garden bargain but when a product goes on sale that you would happily pay full price for, you know you're getting great value for your hard-earned bucks. And this year's Prime Day doesn't disappoint with prices slashed on products from Felco pruners to Costa Farms houseplants, Keter storage to Birdfy feeders and Workpro shears. And you can skip straight to the best Amazon Prime Day deals for gardeners because our garden experts at Gardening Know-How have done all the sorting for you.

All these products have four-star or higher customer ratings, and all boast a discount of between 15% and 50%. So, whether you're buying for yourself or getting your Christmas shopping done early – and yes, it's perfectly acceptable to buy your garden a holiday gift, too – these are the deals we're shopping. From gardening tools to time-saving garden gadgets and trusty planters, these are the products you'll reach for on repeat.

Ready? Let's shop!

1. Essential Gardening Deals

Amazon Prime Day deals on everyday products that make life in the garden a little bit easier.

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6 Pairs Gardening Gloves

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Wireless Thermometer

With an impressive 500' range, an outdoor thermometer takes the guesswork out of gardening.

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7-In-1 Digital Soil Tester Kit

Measures moisture, pH, soil fertility and sunlight intensity, with fast readings.

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Felco F2 Professional Pruners

All parts of these Swiss-made pruners are replaceable, to last a lifetime.

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Orange Ninja Tool Sharpener

Sharpen garden tools including pruners, shears and axes with this 7-in-1 tool.

2. Patio Planter Deals

There's always space on a patio for a little extra growing room, and here are our best prime day planter picks.

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Mobile Raised Garden Bed

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This 6'-long V-shaped raised bed is ideal for growing short- and long-rooted veg.

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Our favorite lawn-care prime day deals, because we all a lawn that looks lusher than our neighbors'.

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Use this hand-powered spreader to cast grass seed, fertilizer, salt and ice melt.

4. Yard Maintenance Must-Haves

Gardening tools that take all the hard work out of the tougher tasks in our gardens.

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Grass & Shrubbery Trimmer

Rechargable and cordless with blades that switch easily to trim hedges or grass edges.

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Chop chop! This set of three pruning tools won't hang around for long at this price.

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Cordless Pruning Shears

Rechargeable battery-powered pruning shears that cut branches up to 1.4" in diameter.

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If there's one thing that every garden needs, it's more storage to stay clutter-free.

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Mobile Tool Organizer

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Going cheep! Tweet your feathered friends to these owl-rageous Amazon prime day deals…

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7. Indoor Gardening Deals

Houseplants are the winter sanity fix we gardeners all need, and here's our pick of the best indoor gardening prime day deals.

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One of the fun things about gardening is that there are no absolutes, including the optimal timing for pruning. Yes, you can prune a few plants in October in some regions, but mid-fall isn't the right time to give all garden plants their haircuts. For some, it can be decidedly dangerous.

Timing your fall pruning is more important than you might think. The last thing you want to do in October is chop off the buds for next season’s flowers – and this is entirely possible. Plants that set buds on old wood have set those buds by October, and every healthy branch you prune will contain those buds.

But that’s not all. Pruning plants stimulates growth. That means when you prune in October, you encourage new growth on those branches. And if you live in a region with cold winters, that tender new growth will die during the freezing weather. And don’t forget that autumn is often rainy, and fall pruning wounds can lead to fungal issues and bacterial infections. Finally, some plants are “bleeders,” oozing sap like there’s no tomorrow when pruned back in fall.

So, the question remains: which plants actually benefit from October pruning? Here is a short list of plants you should trim back this month, plus an overview of those you should absolutely not subject to mid-fall pruning. But let’s get started with some general fall-pruning tips.

Practical Fall-Pruning Tips

It’s important to get some ground rules before pruning anything at all in October, so let’s take a look at some good practices.

• Pruning time depends on region and weather. If you intend to get out the pruners in October, wait until the plants in your area enter complete winter dormancy, dropping all leaves. That may not happen until mid-month or later. If they aren’t dormant, new growth may appear during warm spells after freezing, growth that will die back overnight in the cold weather to come.
• Don’t prune in the rain or fog. Wait until a dry day comes round. Pruning during moist weather leads to fungal infections.
• Make sure your tools are clean and sharp. You may need to sterilize them during pruning if any of them are already infected. Dull cutting blades will not make clean snips. Bypass pruners are the best choice for most fall pruning jobs. The Felco F6 Bypass Pruning Shears, available on Amazon, were rated the best pruners in our testing. Keep them sharp with a Corona sharpener, also on Amazon.
• Keep the 3 Ds method of light pruning in mind. This lets you remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood without going overboard.
• Know your plants. Our list gives you a starting point for October pruning, but you may have other plants you can trim. Knowing your plants means checking which of them flower on new wood and which flower on old wood. Prune the latter group immediately after the flowers fade. New-wood bloomers will not lose flowers from an October trim.
• Think of the wildlife. Some plants produce seed pods that wildlife relies on for food or spent foliage that wildlife relies on for shelter. Leave these plants alone in fall. Wildlife makes the world go round.

Plants to Prune in October

Eenie-meeney-miney-mo is NOT the way to decide who to trim in October. And don’t even consider a whole-garden tidy-up. Any pruning should be targeted and carefully selected. Choose the landscape trees and shrubs that will benefit from pruning in October. Here are some specific plants to get you started.

1. Japanese Spirea

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Japanese spirea is a landscape favorite that grows in a compact mound and grows fast. It is beloved for its long-lasting summer flowers and dramatic multi-season foliage color.

The best time for a heavy annual pruning is in early spring. This will push the plant to bloom intensively. October is also a good time for a light prune using the 3 Ds methodology. While you’re there with the pruners, take out any spent blooms that remain on the shrub.

2. Panicle and Smooth Hydrangeas

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The timing of pruning hydrangeas depends on the type. Old wood bloomers, such as mophead and oakleaf hydrangeas, should never be pruned in fall because you'll remove next year's flower buds. Smooth and panicle hydrangeas, however, bloom on new spring growth, making them suitable for light pruning in October.

Wait until the shrub has dropped all its leaves and is fully dormant before reaching for the pruners. If either type puts on fresh growth after an early trim, that tender new growth is more likely to be damaged by freezing temperatures.

Save any hard pruning until late winter or early spring, but a simple 3 Ds prune in late October is worthwhile. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased stems, then cut away spent flower heads – particularly on panicle hydrangeas, where the large blooms can become heavy with snow and ice and cause branches to snap. If needed, you can also shorten stems by up to one-third to tidy the shrub, leaving any major reshaping until spring.

3. Raspberries

(Image credit: Irina Shatilova / Shutterstock)

These small berry plants should not be hard-pruned in October, but summer-bearing raspberries should get targeted sanitation cuts in fall. Prune out the old, brown, wood-stemmed floricanes that finished fruiting earlier in the summer. Now’s the perfect time to cut those brown stems to the ground. At the same time, you can tie in the fresh green canes.

For fall-bearing raspberries grown for two crops, prune off only the top portion of each cane that produced fruit in fall. Leave the lower part of the cane intact, as it will produce a second crop the following summer. Once that summer crop has finished, remove the entire cane to ground level.

You can also trim or prune blackberry and gooseberry in October, but only if they are summer-fruiting varieties. Be sure you know your type, and cut the year’s fruiting canes all the way down to the ground.

4. Blueberries

(Image credit: Maksim Safaniuk / Shutterstock)

When pruning blueberries, stick to the 3 Ds pruning method in October. Inspect the shrub for any dead, diseased, or damaged canes and remove them with clean, sharp pruners. You can also clear away any weak, broken, or crossing shoots that are obviously causing problems, but save any major pruning until late winter or early spring while the plant is still dormant. At that point, you can thin out older canes to encourage vigorous new growth and better fruit production.

5. Roses

(Image credit: Melanie Griffiths)

Pruning roses is usually a late-winter or early-spring job, but October is still a good time to give both bush and shrub roses a light trim. Reducing overly long or whippy canes by about one-third helps prevent strong winter winds from rocking the plant and loosening its roots. It also makes roses easier to protect with rose cones or other winter coverings. Save any hard pruning until late winter or early spring.

October is also the perfect time to tidy up around your roses. Rake up and discard any fallen leaves and prunings, as this debris can harbor black spot spores and other fungal diseases over winter.

One exception is Knock Out roses. Because they flower on new spring growth, you can prune Knock Out roses by around one-third in October without sacrificing next year's blooms. For other rose varieties, stick to light shaping now and leave more substantial pruning until the plants are dormant in late winter.

6. Southern Magnolia

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For gardeners in the South, October is the ideal time to prune magnolia trees. Many southern magnolias continue flowering into fall, so avoid reaching for the pruners too soon, or you'll cut the display short.

After flowering has finished, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches and lightly shape the canopy if needed. It's best to avoid pruning southern magnolias in winter, as fresh cuts can cause the tree to bleed sap.

For trees, rather than risk balancing on a ladder, invest in a telescopic pole pruner, like Fiskars' 2-in-1 Extendable Tree Pruner and Pole Saw.

7. Gardenia

(Image credit: Santiago Urquijo / Getty Images)

For gardeners in warmer regions, October is also a good time to prune gardenias. These fragrant shrubs typically bloom throughout summer and can continue flowering well into fall, so it's worth waiting until the display has finished before reaching for the pruners.

Once flowering is over, remove any leggy, dead, damaged, or unhealthy growth and lightly shape the shrub to maintain its form. Avoid heavy pruning, as this can reduce next season's blooms.

8. Fruit Trees

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No, we are not telling you to do structural pruning on fruit trees in October. This should not happen until late winter. In October, though, it’s a good idea to remove dead and damaged wood, including broken limbs.

For pruning apple or pear trees, remove low branches that rub the ground in October. For plum or apricot trees, clip off any diseased wood or mummified fruit to prevent fungal spores from overwintering.

9. Most Herbaceous Perennials

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Not every perennial should be cut back in the fall. In many cases, it's actually better to leave them standing through winter. Ornamental grasses add texture and interest to the garden during the colder months while also providing shelter for wildlife, and coneflower and black-eyed Susan seedheads offer an important food source for birds.

However, some herbaceous perennials are best cut back in October, particularly those prone to fungal diseases. Leaving infected foliage in place can allow problems to overwinter and reappear the following season. Iris, hollyhock, phlox, peonies, bee balm, hostas, and any plants showing signs of powdery mildew or other fungal diseases should all make your October pruning list.

10. Shrubs with Suckers

(Image credit: Tony Baggett / Shutterstock)

Most overgrown shrubs and trees are best left unpruned in late fall, as cutting them back can encourage tender new growth that's vulnerable to winter damage. One exception is suckers – the thin shoots that emerge from around a plant's base. Left unchecked, these can form dense colonies, spoil the plant's appearance, and divert energy away from the main shrub or tree.

Common landscape plants that produce troublesome suckers include dogwood, black locust, lilac, forsythia, sumac, witch hazel, and many fruit trees. During your October cleanup, cut suckers off as close to their point of origin as possible. You may need to scrape away a little soil to remove them cleanly from the base for the best results.

Fall Pruning Essentials

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When to Stop Pruning in Fall

When the weather turns extreme, stop your fall pruning. This can mean rain, snow, hail, or high winds. It can also mean drought. These conditions put plants under stress so you should avoid adding pruning stress.

What Not to Prune in October

Generally, you should never prune plants in October if they bloom on old wood, including spring-blooming shrubs that form their flower buds on old wood (like lilacs, forsythia, and rhododendron).

Also avoid pruning plants that use their summer growth to survive winter weather, and plants that support wildlife. These include plants like black-eyed Susan, coneflower, ornamental grasses and Russian sage.

It’s also a good idea to avoid cutting trees like maples, birches, dogwood and elm are sap-heavy and they can leak excessive sap if cut in autumn.

October is a good time to shift geranium care from promoting summer growth to preparing for cooler weather. Depending on where you garden, your geraniums may still be blooming heavily, but eventually these tender flowers will face winter, and you'll need to do some prep work.

It’s important to note that geranium care depends on the type you’re growing. The term geranium usually refers to a tender perennial most gardeners grow as annuals, known as Pelargonium. True geraniums are different and are hardier perennials often called cranesbill. Here, we’ll cover essential fall care for Pelargoniums, with a few notes on true geraniums.

1. Deadhead and Trim Lightly

(Image credit: Getty Images)

To encourage blooms for as long as possible, keep deadheading your geraniums. Cut the entire faded flower stalk back to where it meets the main stem using a pair of sharp bypass pruners, such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, to make clean cuts without crushing the stems. Eventually, the plants will slow and stop blooming naturally as the weather cools. This is normal.

It’s also a good idea to trim back any damaged or yellow foliage. Keep an eye out for signs of fungus or mold and remove and dispose of any leaves that look infected. Especially if you’re bringing plants indoors for winter, diseased and damaged foliage will persist and cause issues if you don’t remove it now.

If you have hardy geraniums, you can do a tidying trim, but they don’t need a heavy trim now or much deadheading.

2. Cut Back on Fertilizer

(Image credit: GKSFlorapics / Alamy)

Tender geraniums benefit from regular feedings throughout the summer. Bloom-boosting products, like Scotts Super Super Bloom, keep them flowering well into fall, but by October it's time to stop feeding in most areas. Too much fertilizer can trigger fresh, green growth at a time when the plant should be slowing down and preparing for winter. True geraniums generally don't need fertilizer in fall.

3. Adjust Your Watering Schedule

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You can also cut back on watering this time of year, but don’t let your plants dry out too much. This adjustment is based on need, not a complete stop to watering. Cooler temperatures and shorter days usually mean the soil stays moist for longer, so you may not need to water as often.

If it isn't raining, check the soil and water when the top inch (2.5 cm) feels dry. Use a moisture meter if you don't trust the finger test – the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available on Amazon, also checks soil pH, temperature, and sunlight intensity.

If you’re moving geraniums indoors for winter, taper off watering before you move them. Hardy geraniums don’t need much water, especially if they are well established. Water only if you have drought conditions or excessive heat.

4. Take Cuttings

(Image credit: Zhanna Hapanovich / Shutterstock)

Even if you plan to keep Pelargoniums indoors for winter, early to mid-fall is a good time to propagate geraniums from cuttings. Not all tender geraniums will survive winter indoors, despite your best efforts. Cuttings serve as insurance against this failure, especially if you have favorite plants you want to enjoy again next year.

Choose a healthy-looking, non-flowering stem and use sharp, clean shears to remove four to six inches (10 to 15 cm). Place the cut end in quality potting soil or rooting mix, like this Soil Sunrise Plant Propagation Potting Mix. Place it in a spot with bright but indirect sunlight and warmth. Keep the medium moist but not soggy as the roots grow.

Hardy geraniums are best propagated by root division. Fall is a good time to do this. Carefully dig up the plant, separate a clump of roots that has plenty of healthy growth, and replant it right away. Water it as it gets established.

5. Shelter Tender Geraniums

(Image credit: Jonas Rönnbro/Getty Images)

While you can always let your tender geraniums go as temperatures drop, a little protection can help you enjoy them longer if they're still flowering. Move potted plants to a sheltered location that protects them from wind, or to a spot that’s sunnier throughout the day.

Use plant covers, like this frost blanket from Amazon, or even an old sheet or burlap to cover tender geraniums overnight as temperatures drop. If daytime temperatures still support them, this can help you get a few more flowers and more enjoyment from your plants.

6. Bring Tender Geraniums Indoors

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Many people treat geraniums as true annuals, disposing of them at the end of the season. They are perennials only in very warm areas, generally USDA zones 10 and higher, so they won’t survive winter outdoors in most places. As an alternative to letting them go, you can bring potted geraniums indoors to overwinter. True geraniums are usually hardy from zones 3 through 8, so they’re fine in winter in most areas.

Bring your potted plants inside before overnight temperatures regularly fall below 45–50°F (7–10°C), or before the first frost if that comes sooner. Trim back about one-third of the foliage and place the plant in a bright spot but away from cold drafts or vents. Always check for pests before bringing any plants indoors. Look along stems and on the undersides of leaves and remove all pests to avoid contaminating houseplants.

If you find signs of pests, spray plants with an organic neem oil product, such as Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil spray from Amazon, before bringing them indoors, making sure to coat both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves. Allow the foliage to dry completely before moving the plant inside.

Fall Geranium Care Essentials

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Fall care for geraniums has two main purposes: helping you enjoy the flowers for as long as possible and preparing plants you want to save for winter storage. While you can simply let your annuals fade into winter, a little extra care extends the bloom time and even allows you to keep plants for next year. And if you grow hardy geraniums, you're in luck. Fall care needs are low, and they should be back next year.

There is something rather beautiful about a garden at the end of the season. Flowers that were once bright and full are beginning to fade, petals have fallen away and seed heads have taken their place, but rather than looking finished, many plants take on an entirely different character.

Don't believe me? Just ask Martha Stewart, who has made a point of turning the slightly weathered and faded beauty of late-season flowers into an atmospheric Halloween display.

Honestly, if you love the season of the witch, it's a brilliant way to add your own unique twist to your Halloween decorations. Because, sure, pumpkins might be traditional, but there are more fall décor options to be found around your garden (and no, we're not just talking about your spooky porch plants).

Martha Stewart's Halloween Flower Trick

A long way from the usual pumpkins, plastic spiders and orange decorations, Martha Stewart's Halloween display uses the things a garden naturally gives us at this time of year: think dried flowers, dark seed heads, wispy grasses and stems that have been allowed to age in place.

Set against deep, muted colors and a few carefully chosen spooky details, the result feels more like an autumn still life than traditional Halloween décor. Or, you know, something that Morticia Addams would proudly display on her dining room table.

Check it out:

A post shared by Martha Stewart (@marthastewart)

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If you want to recreate Martha Stewart's Halloween display for yourself, then you may already have much of what you need growing in your garden. (Although if you want that skeletal effect, you can get a very similar Halloween Skull Planter from Amazon).

Scabiosa, for example, develops delicate seed heads, while coneflowers (true to their name!) leave behind sturdy cones that can remain attractive well into fall. Alliums somehow become even more magnificent once their flowers have dried, and ornamental grasses take on an airy quality that works particularly well in an autumn arrangement.

Even flowers that might look a little past their prime can have their place; faded hydrangeas develop wonderfully muted shades of green, mauve and brown, while spent dahlias and roses can add the darker texture that makes a Halloween display feel atmospheric rather than overly polished.

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Martha Stewart has long embraced this kind of seasonal material in her Halloween decorating, recommending everything from dried pods to rose hips for arrangements. The idea is less about finding a perfect black flower and more about bringing together unusual shapes and textures.

It's particularly appealing as it doesn't require you to grow anything specifically for Halloween; if you've been growing flowers throughout summer, take another look at them before you clear the garden for winter, choose a handful of the most interesting shapes and bring them indoors.

For a more Halloween-inspired look, work with deep reds, burgundies, browns and muted greens rather than relying entirely on orange and black. A black taper candle (available as a pack of four from Leor & Lair)can provide the final touch without overwhelming the plants themselves. And there's nothing stopping you from adding a skull or a pair of skeletal hands, as Martha's display does.

(Image credit: Catherine McQueen / Getty Images)

While some plants benefit from being deadheaded, there are good reasons to leave other seed heads standing for a little longer. They can provide food and shelter for wildlife, add winter structure to borders and, as this display demonstrates, provide beautiful material for seasonal decorating.

So before you cut everything back and tidy away the last remains of summer, take a leaf from Martha Stewart’s book. After all, those faded flowers may not be finished just yet; they might simply be waiting to give their best performance as particularly pretty members of the undead!

Once October turns gray and drizzly, the hose tends to be wound up on its reel and stored away for the winter. It’s tempting to believe that the sky has the job covered from here until the end of the year. For long-established trees and deep-rooted shrubs, that may be close to true. However, for newly planted trees and shrubs you added in the past 6-12 months, it’s another matter. The gap between a wet surface and a thoroughly soaked root ball is where countless fall plantings quietly fail.

Standard advice on watering the garden often counts rainfall against the weekly watering total, which works fine provided someone is measuring how much moisture penetrates the soil. A light autumn shower or drizzly afternoon may darken surface mulch and wet the top inch of soil, giving the illusion of a drenched yard. But a significant portion of that will evaporate or run off before ever reaching the roots below. The yard may look watered, but the root ball often remains bone dry.

For many newly planted shrubs and trees, consistent hydration remains critical until the soil freezes solid. While above-ground branches settle into winter dormancy, young roots actively expand into cool fall soil. Ensuring these fresh roots receive adequate moisture protects them against winter desiccation, frost-heaving, and freeze damage, setting the stage for explosive spring growth. So if you’ve heard it’s OK to stop watering in fall, here’s the truth for new trees and shrubs…

Meet the Myth

On the surface, the logic behind stopping your fall watering routine seems entirely sound. Cooler air temperatures reduce transpiration (the process where plants lose water vapor through their leaves). Autumn weather naturally feels wetter, characterized by heavy morning dews, misty rain, and overcast skies that linger for days. Lower water demand is a real thing in autumn: an established oak, maple, or lilac with years of expansive roots spread through native soil can easily ride out a dry October with little fuss. However, for anything planted this year, the logic falls apart.

(Image credit: Philippe Gerber / Getty Images)

The root system of a freshly transplanted shrub or tree remains confined to its original root ball for many months. This root ball frequently dries out far faster than the surrounding native soil, primarily due to textural differences. Commercial nursery potting media (often composed of lightweight pine bark and peat) drains rapidly, creating a moisture barrier where it meets heavier native clay or loam. Water moving across this soil boundary slows down, so native soil can feel damp while the root ball remains dry. Furthermore, dense canopies on evergreens like arborvitae or boxwoods act like umbrellas, deflecting rainfall outward past young roots.

Why the Myth Sticks

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Surface appearances can be remarkably persuasive to busy gardeners. Dripping roof gutters, slick driveways, and damp patio pavers give the illusion of a thoroughly soaked yard when viewed from the comfort of your kitchen window, even on days when a rain gauge reveals barely a quarter-inch (6mm) of precipitation fell. Damp wood mulch acts much like a deceiving weather report, masking dry soil hidden just two inches (5cm) beneath the surface.

The primary reason this myth persists so stubbornly is a delay in visible symptoms. Root damage caused by dry fall soil rarely manifests right away. Trees and shrubs with root systems that have been injured over a dry fall and winter often leaf out normally in early spring, drawing on stored starch reserves. However, once the heat of late spring or midsummer arrives, these compromised plants collapse and die as their damaged roots fail to supply water. At that point, you might blame the heat, poor nursery stock, or disease, and the problems of October are long forgotten. Recognizing that can help you avoid this costly, disheartening trap.

Problems with the Myth

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Root growth continues long after leaves change color and drop in fall. Tree and shrub roots can keep growing as long as soil temperatures remain above 40°F (4°C), which often extends weeks past the first hard frost. This late-season growth is the primary advantage of fall planting in the first place, but that growth relies on available soil moisture. Without consistent water, root tips wither, halting establishment and leaving the shrub weak as winter approaches.

Cold weather imposes its own pressures. Dry soil contains air pockets that freeze rapidly, conducting sub-zero temperatures deep into the root zone. Conversely, moist soil holds thermal energy, insulating roots against rapid temperature swings. Roots are far less cold-hardy than above-ground woody stems. While branches might survive sub-zero winds, tender roots suffer cell death when soil temperatures drop below 20°F (-7°C). A good mulch, such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch from Amazon, can help protect existing soil moisture levels, but it cannot just be assumed that the soil is moist enough to keep new plants and trees in good shape.

Evergreen trees and shrubs endure the worst consequences of fall drought. Needles and broadleaf foliage keep losing water on bright, windy winter days. If the root ball entered winter dry and froze solid, roots can’t replace the lost water. This can result in severe browning foliage on the windward or sunny side of the plant, known as winter burn. Dry soil also contributes to frost-heaving, where freezing cycles lift poorly anchored plants out of the ground, exposing bare roots to freezing air.

Beyond the Myth: Real Rules

(Image credit: Дмитрий Куруллин / Alamy)

A reliable guideline for newly planted tree and shrub care goes like this: if your yard receives less than an inch (2.5cm) of natural rain within a 5-7-day period, newly planted trees and shrubs require manual watering. Applying around 10 gallons (38 L) of water twice weekly effectively drenches a standard 20-24-inch (51-61cm) root ball, providing the equivalent of that missing inch of rain.

Guessing at rainfall amounts allows the fall watering myth to persist. Installing an inexpensive, wide-mouth rain gauge on a fence post eliminates guesswork. The AcuRite Blue Capacity Rain Gauge, available from Walmart, costs only $6, with numbers big enough to read without walking out in slippers. However, rain gauges cannot account for dense foliage or thick layers of mulch. The most reliable test is manual inspection. Push a long screwdriver 2 inches (5cm) into the central area (gently). If soil comes up dry, gritty, or warm, it’s time to water thoroughly.

Delivery speed is critical when watering fall plantings. Dumping water rapidly from a bucket or high-pressure hose nozzle causes water to sheet off the compacted surface of a root ball, running into surrounding native soil without penetrating the core. Instead, go for slow, low-pressure soaking methods that allow moisture to sink deep into the root zone. Sandy soils drain rapidly and may require two light soakings weekly, while heavy loam responds best to one deep, slow soaking every 7 days.

Taking Action With New Plantings

(Image credit: Irina Petrova / Getty Images)

In fall, establish a weekly monitoring routine for every tree and shrub planted this year, aiming for a slow, deep soak. You can get watering bags, such as the Oyezvary Twenty-Gallon Tree Watering Bags from The Home Depot, which release water slowly. The Melnor Flat Soaker Hose, available from Lowe’s, does the same for a hedge row or a cluster of shrubs.

When watering young trees, drench both the root ball and the surrounding backfill soil. Soaking the backfill encourages roots to venture out to help strengthen and support the plant. Continue this deep-soaking routine right up until the ground freezes solid. Once topsoil freezes hard, stop watering, as plant roots can’t pull water out of frozen soil anyway. In southern climates (zones 8-10) where ground freezes rarely occur, continue checking soil moisture monthly throughout winter, applying a deep soak during dry, warm spells above 40°F (4°C).

(Image credit: Claire Plumridge / Getty Images)

Finish by spreading a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) layer of organic wood mulch in a wide ring around the tree or shrub, pulling it back 3 inches (8cm) from the trunk. Make sure you always water first before you mulch. Remember: mulch acts as a protective blanket to contain existing soil moisture and insulate root temperatures, but it cannot generate moisture all on its own.

Fall rain isn’t useless. A heavy storm that delivers a full inch (2.5cm) of rain over 24 hours covers your watering duties for the week, allowing you to leave the hose coiled with a clear conscience. The rest of the time, a quick rainfall check and a manual soil probe can help to ensure that your new plantings thrive for years to come. Taking a few quiet minutes each week gives your younger garden characters the best possible start. Trust the process, embrace the quiet rhythm of fall garden care, and enjoy watching your new trees and shrubs flourish when the warmer days return…

More Garden Mythbusters

• Does the Pointy End of a Bulb Really Need to Be Facing Up When You Plant It?
• Vegetable Companion Planting Myths – Plus, the Planting Pairs that Really Work
• Does Gravel in the Base of Pots Really Help with Drainage?
• Do Pine Needles Make Your Soil Dangerously Acidic?
• Will Leaves Left on the Lawn Always Smother and Kill Grass?

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