Organic Gardening News

Plenty of gardeners treat October as cleanup month. The tomato cages come down and the squash vines get yanked, then the beds sit bare until spring. That ground still has plenty of use left in it, though. Cooler nights and a lower sun happen to suit a whole group of crops that bolt or turn bitter in summer heat, and quite a few can go in this month for harvests running from late fall into next spring.

Timing is where it gets tricky. Anyone starting a vegetable garden this late in the year still has options, but much depends on USDA zones (or your equivalent growing zone for non-Americans) and first frost dates. A gardener in mild zone 9 has months of planting weather ahead, while someone in cooler zone 5 might see the soil freeze solid by Thanksgiving – pretty different situations.

The solution is to choose crops that are suited to shorter days and chillier evenings. From leafy greens that thrive with fewer pests in fall to root vegetables that overwinter underground, and even hardy herbs that normally bolt in the high heat of summer. Plenty of options are available for anyone who wants to keep planting seeds in October and enjoy a home-grown seasonal bounty.

How USDA Zones Shape October Planting

One detail catches a lot of people off guard. USDA zones are built on average extreme winter lows, not frost dates, so two towns sharing a zone can see their first frost weeks apart – elevation and coastal influence skew things quite a bit. Zones still work as a rough guide to what can sit in the ground over winter. Frost dates tell when to stop sowing; zones hint at what survives after that.

Count back from the average first frost date using the days to maturity on the seed packet, then add a week or two. Growth slows as fall days shorten, and packet numbers usually assume summer conditions. Overwintering crops are a different story – they only need roots down before the soil freezes.

Cool-Season Vegetables to Sow in October

A few of these work across most of the country this month. Others only pay off where winters stay mild, so it helps to know the zone before buying seed.

1. Garlic

(Image credit: Getty Images)

October is prime time for growing garlic, with cloves going in a few weeks before the ground freezes in zones 3–8. However, planting times for garlic vary slightly by region. Down in zones 9 and 10, there's no rush – November or December works fine.

Break the bulb apart and set individual cloves pointed end up, roughly 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart.

You can plant grocery store garlic, but it is usually a softneck variety grown in mild winters, and it can struggle in colder regions, unlike hardneck garlic types. A garden center or seed catalog is the better source – you can pick up a flavor sampler organic garlic bundle from Botanical Interests, which includes two hardneck varieties and elephant garlic.

Up north, pile on straw mulch once the soil cools – 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) is typical. Freeze-thaw cycles can heave bare cloves right out of the ground otherwise. Harvest comes next summer as the lower leaves brown.

2. Spinach

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Spinach sown in early October across zones 5–7 often overwinters as small rosettes. Come spring, those plants are usually ready to cut weeks before anything sown in March. Zones 8–10 get the easier deal, with steady cutting straight through winter.

Bloomsdale Long Standing, available from Eden Brothers, is a lovely, rich heirloom spinach that performs well with fall planting, while Noble Giant produces huge sweet leaves that do not turn bitter as temperatures drop.

Plant seed ½ inch (1 cm) deep. Germination tends to suffer in warm soil, roughly 75°F (24°C) and up, and a warm spell in early October can push beds into that range. In colder spots, row covers, like these Agfabric ones on Amazon, or loose straw help young plants through hard freezes.

3. Radishes

(Image credit: Yevgeniya Shal / Shutterstock)

Small round radishes rank among the quickest crops around, going from seed to harvest in three to four weeks. That speed makes them a safe October sowing in zones 6–10, while zone 5 gardeners can sometimes squeeze in a crop during the first week or so.

The big winter types are another matter – most need closer to two months, so they're better started in late summer outside the South.

If the idea of classic white and red radishes bores you, then try black radishes. This resilient variety thrives in cool seasons across USDA Zones 3–9 when planted in well-draining soil and full sun. Pick up a pack of Round Black Spanish Radish Seeds at Botanical Interests.

When planting radishes, sow seed ½ inch (1 cm) deep. Crowded radishes tend to put everything into leaves, so thin seedlings to 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) apart.

4. Lettuce

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Lettuce tends to get filed under spring crops. Through much of zones 8–10, though, October is when its best stretch begins. Loose-leaf types may be ready to cut in six or seven weeks, and light frost rarely does much damage. A hard freeze is another matter – expect mushy leaves.

Zones 6 and 7 can pull it off with shelter – a cold frame similar to the Zenport folding cold frame at Lowe's can trap enough daytime warmth to keep leaves coming into early winter. Crack the lid on sunny days, though. It gets hot in there fast.

There are so many varieties of lettuce to choose from, and so it's worth getting a mix pack of seeds, like this Survival Seeds 10 Heirloom Lettuces Collection, from Amazon. Many can be harvested as cut-and-come-again.

Scatter seed thinly with barely any soil on top; often lettuces germinate better when a little light reaches them.

5. Fava Beans

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Snap beans rarely survive a frost. Fava beans are a different animal, a cool-season legume that can take a fair amount of cold. Gardeners in zones 8–10 can sow them anytime from October to December, and growth crawls along all winter before pods show up in spring. Zone 7 is more of a gamble – seed labeled for overwintering helps, but a rough winter can still set plants back.

Windsor fava beans from Botanical Interests are tasty and look pretty in beds. You can eat the young pods like snap peas.

Plant 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) deep with about 6 inches (15 cm) between seeds. By spring, the stems may be tall enough to need a stake. After the last pods come off, cut plants at the soil line and leave the roots where they are. They return some nitrogen to the bed for whatever goes in next.

6. Carrots

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This one mostly belongs to Southern gardeners. October-sown carrots in zones 8–10 typically need two to three months to size up, and a carrot pulled in January often tastes noticeably sweeter than a summer one. Cold soil pushes roots to turn some starch into sugar. Farther north, there usually isn't enough time before the ground freezes.

Organo Republic sells a 10 Unique Carrot Seeds Variety Pack on Amazon, which offers all the flavor variety you could want.

Seed goes in ¼ inch (6 mm) deep, and it's slow – sometimes two weeks or more to sprout. Keeping that top layer moist is honestly the hard part. A strip of burlap laid over the row helps, as long as it comes off the moment seedlings appear.

7. Herbs

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From parsley to cilantro, starting an herb garden is a great way to fill your life with fragrance and flavor in the months to come. Get started with Home Grown's 15-Variety Herb Pack on Amazon; if you're worried about cooler temperatures, you can always keep them in pots on a sunny windowsill. Most, however, should cope in zones 5–10, making them ideal crops to plant in October.

October is best for planting cool-season herbs such as parsley, cilantro, chives, dill, and chervil, which can handle lower temperatures and may keep producing into fall. You can also plant hardy perennial herbs like thyme, sage, oregano, and mint in many areas while the soil is still workable. Some herbs will need winter protection in colder regions.

8. Snow Peas

(Image credit: Colin Temple / Getty Images)

Snow peas are cool-season vegetables that are quite frost-hardy, but don’t worry; they require no more work than growing other varieties of peas, making them one of our favorite low-maintenance vegetables to plant in October (particularly if you’re based in USDA zones 8 and 9).

Just make sure you get them in the ground about 6 to 8 weeks before your area's first fall frost to allow the roots to establish before a hard freeze – and mulch well, too. We’re fans of the Dwarf Grey Sugar heirloom snow peas, available from Eden Brothers.

Plant snow pea seeds directly into loose, well-drained soil about 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart, ideally beside a trellis or other support for the vines to climb. Choose a spot with full sun and keep the soil consistently moist. Harvest the flat pods once they reach a useful size, before the peas inside begin to swell.

9. Shallots

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One of the easiest vegetables to plant in October, shallots are very similar to garlic in lots of ways; all you need to do is sow sets or seeds, like the sweet, mild Zebrune Shallots from Botanical Interests, in loose, well-drained soil amended with organic matter, then wait until June or July to harvest.

Fall planting is generally most successful in USDA Zones 4–10, although gardeners in colder Zones 3–5 may need to add a thick layer of mulch or plant in raised beds for extra drainage and protection. In the coldest areas, spring planting may be more reliable.

10. Beets

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Of course, beets are on our list of vegetables to plant in October; these tasty red crops can be grown all winter long in many southern states (though you’ll need a soil temperature of at least 40°F in the north).

Sow beet seeds directly into loose, well-drained soil around ½ inch deep, spacing them roughly 1–2 inches apart. Once seedlings emerge, thin them so the remaining plants have room to swell, or harvest the thinnings as baby greens. In warmer Zones 7–10, October sowings can provide a steady winter crop, while gardeners in colder areas may need to use row cover or a cold frame.

Most will be ready for harvesting after seven to eight weeks, although beet greens can be picked earlier. And, if you want to up the ante, try something like Organo Republic's 10 Rare Beet Seeds Variety Pack from Walmart; it should make for a truly spectacular display!

Fall is when grass directs its energy into growing strong roots, and using a lawn aerator now is the best way to boost growth for a much lusher lawn next year. It's more effective, even, than fertilizing it! You see, after this baking-hot El Nino summer, the soil beneath many of our lawns has compacted into a solid mass that’s very difficult for grass roots to penetrate. Not only that, but this compaction makes it tough for water, air and nutrients to seep into the soil and nourish those all-important roots. But don’t fret – this problem is easily fixed in 10 minutes with a lawn aerator.

Aerate your lawn in October and roots will grow far better, supporting greener, lusher grass. And the easiest way to do it is with a rotary lawn aerator. This handy garden tool is formed of a cylinder covered in sharp spikes, that's pushed around the lawn with a long handle. It punches hundreds of tiny holes into the ground, breaking up the soil structure and allowing vital moisture and airflow into the ground.

Every lawn will benefit from being aerated in October, especially this year to revive and repair grass after summer heat. Take advantage of the perfect root-boosting seasonal window in October and you’ll see impressive results above ground next year, making neighbors green with envy. And you can bet your bottom dollar this fall gardening task is being done on every golf course green around the country! Part of the Weekend Win series, aerating a lawn to encourage strong root growth is one of those quick and easy gardening jobs that brings a big reward, and is an essential part of lawn care.

Why Lawn Aeration is So Important in Fall

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It’s a little known fact that grass roots need air to breathe. While the blades above the soil surface take in carbon dioxide, tiny hairs on the roots absorb oxygen. It’s a process called cellular respiration and it's a vital part of how plants grow. Healthy soil is full of these little air pockets that are continually flushed out by rain, bringing in a fresh air supply. But when soil has been compacted after a summer of being walked on, which crushes these air pockets, the condensed structure can become impenetrable.

Without these air pockets, oxygen-deprived roots are weakened and start dying – which you’ll see with thinning grass above ground.

In October, cooling air has triggered grass to reduce its growing rate above ground but the soil is still warm enough to allow strong root growth, so plants are directing most of their energy underground. Regular rainfall also helps to fuel this below-surface expansion, and keeps the soil soft enough for fragile new roots to easily dive deeper into the ground. So, aerating a lawn in early fall provides it with everything it needs for strong root growth, resulting in a bigger root system that will make grass better able to cope with drought next summer.

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If you’re overseeding or reseeding bare patches – and who isn’t after this summer? – as part of your fall lawn care then aerating first means grass seed drops into all the punched holes for optimal germination and protection from birds.

Because soil structure also affects drainage, a compacted lawn can quickly become waterlogged in fall and winter. Roots that sit in water are unable to breathe and will drown and die, giving us another reason why October is a great month to aerate lawns.

Choose the Right Rotary Aerator For You

While you can aerate a lawn by pushing the tines of a garden fork into the ground, or using a push-pull aerating tool to remove small plugs of soil, by far the quickest, easiest way is to use a rotary lawn aerator.

There are different types of roller lawn aerators, so choose the one that’ll work best for you and your lawn.

Best for Budget: Standard Rotary Push Tine Aerator

AsterOutdoor Heavy Duty Rolling Lawn Aerator

A standard rotary aerator has rows of steel tines on a drum. This simple gardening tool will get the job done quickly without splashing too much cash. If you have an average-sized lawn and enjoy loose, loamy soil, this basic gardening tool is all you need.

Best for Ease: Spiral Rotary Push Tine Aerator

WaLensee Heavy Duty Rolling Lawn Aerator

Arranging the tines in a spiral formation means less energy is required to push the cylinder along, making this a smart buy if you’ve got a bigger lawn. If you don’t have much strength in your wrists, or your ground is rocky, then a spiral tine aerator tends to keep rolling if a spike hits a stone, with less jarring.

Some designs such as the WaLensee aerator bring the option of filling the cylinder with pebbles or sand to add weight, making it easier to push tines into heavily compacted soil, too. So, if you can stretch to this budget, it’s a good investment.

Best for Heavy Compaction: Rotary Spike Blade Lawn Aerator

Suchtale 18" Rolling Lawn Aerator With Steel Spike Tines

If you’ve never aerated your lawn before, have clay or silty soil with particles that get packed tightly together, or the ground is heavily compacted – perhaps by being regularly driven over – a spike blade lawn aerator is a better bet. The sharp star-shaped blades slice slits into the ground, creating multiple breathing channels.

If you’re planning on overseeding your lawn, this brings more seed-to-soil contact than a spike aerator does, for better germination. And, if your lawn is full of thatch, and you don’t have time to rake it out right now, these blades will easily slice through it. If you have a new garden, and especially a newbuild plot with fresh turf likely sitting on a layer of heavily compacted soil, aerating with the added power of a spike blade aerator – at least for the first couple of years – would be a wise move, and perhaps you could club together with neighbors to buy a communal lawn tool.

Many designs also have a platform that can be loaded with bricks, to add weight.

How to Aerate Your Lawn

Got the right tool? Let's fix your lawn to get greener grass, pronto! First mow the lawn as usual – there's no need to cut it any shorter than usual. One or two days before you plan to aerate your lawn, push a screwdriver into the ground. If it slides in, the ground is soft enough to be easily aerated. If not, water the lawn or wait for a decent rain shower. Wait at least 24 hours so you don’t damage a still-wet lawn, then push the rotary aerator all around the lawn, going over any well-used areas such as around the washing line where soil will be more heavily compacted, twice.

If you’re planning on detaching your lawn, get that done first. If you’re planning on overseeding or feeding your lawn, do that after you’ve aerated.

You can aerate your lawn every year in fall to reverse summer ground compaction. If you notice any spots where water pools through fall and winter, aerate those areas again in spring. Depending on your USDA zones, there are a few other considerations:

If You Live in a Hot USDA Zone

Hard-baked, arid soils can be nearly impenetrable post-summer in zones 8-11 so water your lawn extra well a day or two before aerating. This allows the tines to penetrate deeply without being damaged.

If You Live in a Cold USDA Zone

In zones 3-6, aeration is a vital part of October lawn care to avoid waterlogging through the colder seasons. Aerate as early as possible in fall so roots have ample time for growth before the first hard frost, and be careful the soil isn't saturated when you're working. Walking repeatedly across soggy soil can cause further compaction, so wait for a break in rainfall and soil is moist but not muddy.

Add this easy task to your list of gardening jobs in October and you will create ideal conditions for grass to grow its roots, just at the point of the year that it focuses its energy on this vital task. If you spot any bare patches, do this timely test for grub worms and eradicate them before winter. And then sit back, relax, and look forward to the joys of having the best lawn in town next year!

More Weekend Wins

This feature is part of the Weekend Wins series, packed with quick and easy 10-minute tasks and gardening tips and tricks that bring a big reward.

Get Xmas Blooms

Christmas cactus blooms are a delightful part of holiday decor when you trick plants into flowering on time.

Plant Pansies

Tuck cold-hardy pansies into pots and hanging baskets for months of easy-breezy fall-to-winter blooms.

Add lawn bulbs

Plant fast-growing bulbs in your lawn and enjoy drifts of lavender-hued blooms in a few weeks.

Revive Pots

Treat tired flowering plants in pots to some tomato feed and fuel another flush of fresh blooms.

Boost Roses

Remove suckers that are stealing energy from your rose shrubs and enjoy bigger blooms next summer.

Groom Grasses

Use a $4 dog comb to give ornamental grasses a quick groom and save yourself hours weeding in spring.

Coleus is invariably one of the big sirens in my summer yard. The last couple of years, thanks to a combination of the right spot and extended sunshine, they have ballooned in size to shrub levels of chartreuse, plum, chocolate and hot pink. Even as other plants start to lose their zing, coleus can dominate early fall with enduring lush folds of kaleidoscopic color. But as seasonal shifts bring on that distinctive evening chill, it’s time to start deciding what to do with your resident foliage queens.

While some of us grow coleus as single-season annuals for summer containers and border displays, you can easily keep those vibrant tones going once the first crisp autumn breeze rolls in. The secret is bringing yours inside and keeping them in the right place. Coleus is a tropical perennial at heart, so it’s more than happy to trade the chilly patio for a cozy, sunlit windowsill. Growing coleus indoors in the right way brings a pop of natural color that is high impact yet surprisingly low fuss.

Giving your coleus the best chance of surviving the chillier months comes down to a combination of smart overwintering and low-level propagation. If you have never overwintered outdoor plants before, don't worry. It’s super easy to transition, care for, and even multiply your coleus collection this fall. Here’s how to keep yours safe, warm, and thriving for non-stop color that lasts straight through to next year.

Why Bring Coleus Indoors

If there is one golden rule of growing coleus, it is that these sun-loving divas despise the cold. Waiting until the first frost is already on the grass is a gamble you’ll almost certainly lose, as chilled coleus stems can turn to mush fast. So long before winter frost turns your lawn crisp, be mindful of dropping nighttime temperatures. When they dip below 50°F (10°C) this needs to serve as your green light to start the indoors migration. In chillier northern zones, that rescue mission really has to start now, while in warmer climates you can enjoy outdoor patio color for a few more weeks.

Acting before the cold sets in ensures your plants make a smooth transition to indoor life without suffering thermal shock. You don't have to pick just one rescue method. To double your plant power, you can bring your standout potted coleus inside and adapt it as a houseplant over winter for instant color, while taking a few cuttings provides a compact, space-saving backup on a bright windowsill. Taking action while your coleus is still bursting with late-summer energy means your cuttings will root in record time, giving you a flourishing burst of bonus color.

(Image credit: Halbergman / Getty Images)

Leaf shape and habit can guide how you style them inside. Big, theatrical varieties like Kong, Wasabi, Henna or Saturn can look incredible positioned in tall decorative ceramic planters, as long as you give them a sunny window. Meanwhile, trailing or finer-textured varieties like Chocolate Covered Cherry or Strawberry Drop take well to hanging baskets, wall mounts, elevated pots or small windowsill arrangements. By making your move in early fall while the plant is still vigorous and actively growing, both the main plant and your new cuttings will adapt far more swiftly to indoor humidity and light levels, setting you up for a worry-free winter of color.

Moving indoors is a great time to replenish potting soil that will have taken a beating over summer. Prep a bag of potting soil, ideally a light, gritty, fast-draining cactus and succulent mix or something amended with perlite, such as Back to the Roots Organic Succulent & Cacti Mix, available from Walmart, to prevent moisture retention. Then you’re ready to give your plant a cozy transition with these tips to coleus care indoors.

Moving Coleus Indoors

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Bringing your plant indoors requires a bit of thoughtful preparation to keep both the coleus and your existing houseplant family healthy. Start by giving your potted coleus a thorough health check a few days before the big move. Inspect the undersides of the leaves, stem junctures, and leaf axils for sneaky freeloaders. Common garden pests like aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites love to hide in crevices.

Spraying foliage with a gentle organic neem solution is the ultimate way to ensure only the prettiest leaves cross your threshold. Give your coleus a gentle spray with a hose, or a wipedown using a soft cloth and mild insecticidal soap. I like to use a neem-based agent like Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Organic Neem Oil Spray from Walmart for a quick spritz to combat mealybugs or spider mites.

Acclimatization is the secret sauce if you want to avoid the dreaded leaf drop. Coleus loves bright light, but moving straight from full patio sun to indoor conditions can give your friend a shock. So transition it smoothly by setting the pot on a bright, sheltered porch for a couple of days before nestling it indoors by your sunniest south or west-facing window. Gently topdress your coleus with some of your fresh indoor potting mix or a handful of organic compost to boost root insulation.

Finally, use some fine-tip pruning snips to trim away damaged foliage and leggy stems. Snips like highly rated Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon give clean, precise cuts to soft coleus stems. As well as a light watering, I like to apply a diluted stress-relieving liquid seaweed tonic to support root recovery as part of care for coleus plants indoors.

Taking Coleus Cuttings in Fall

(Image credit: Stephanie Jackson Gardens and Flowers Collection / Alamy)

It’s something I do instinctively now as the seasons shift – taking cuttings of key plants at the end of summer is taking advantage of their natural high. They are still loaded with growth hormones and strong enough to take a little transitional stress. Rooting coleus cuttings in water is so easy, it would be rude not to, and it can be a genuine joy to see those first roots curling into the glass. It’s clean, stress-free, and virtually rot-proof as long as you follow a few simple rules.

To start, use sharp, sterile precision pruning snips. To be sure your snips are sterile, give them a quick wipe with some isopropyl alcohol or neem oil. Take 4-6-inch (10-15cm) cuttings from healthy, non-flowering shoot tips. One of the key tricks to dodging calamity is to make sure there are no leaves allowed to dip into the water (which can quickly decay and foul water). Strip away the lower leaves, leaving 3-4 top leaves. Upright varieties shouldn’t need a hormone powder, but if you are propagating trailing varieties, add a little HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, available from Amazon, for a gentle catalyst.

(Image credit: Stephanie Jackson Gardens and Flowers Collection / Alamy)

Place your cuttings in jars, glass bud vases or glass propagation stations, filled with room-temperature tap or rainwater. You can use standard jars, but avoid wide rims. Go for something that allows for root growth while reducing the risk of stems sliding into the glass. I like the Yibot Propagation Station with Wooden Frame, available from Amazon, because it has a generous teardrop shape and the narrower top will keep the cutting anchored. Just make sure the bare stem nodes (where the leaves were removed) are fully submerged.

Set the glass on a warm windowsill that receives plenty of bright, indirect sunlight, keeping them away from chilly drafts. And don’t let the leaves touch cold window panes. Warmth is essential for rapid cell division, so keeping room temperatures around 65-75°F (18-24°C) ensures white roots emerge in as little as 7-10 days. To prevent stem rot, change the water every few days to maintain oxygen levels. You should see roots inside 7-10 days. Pot up when roots are an inch (2.5cm) long for gorgeous free plants to gift or hoard all winter long.

Indoor Coleus Care

(Image credit: Ali Majdfar / Getty Images)

Keeping your coleus thriving indoors all winter is surprisingly simple once you master a few natural rhythms. It’s all about balancing light, moisture and some gentle tidying to preserve those rich foliage colors. Position them where they can soak up plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. If you need to top up light levels, add a full-spectrum grow light to keep those neon patterns popping. For something that caters to both taller coleus plants and cuttings on shelves, the Barrina T10 Full Spectrum Standing Grow Light from Amazon is currently on discount and can be adjusted easily.

Watering requires a careful hand during the cooler months: think moist, not soggy. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings, maintaining good drainage and taking care not to let pots sit in waterlogged saucers. Growth naturally slows in winter, so hold off on heavy fertilizers. Instead, apply a diluted, organic houseplant feed or seaweed tonic such as Bloom City Seaweed Fertilizer from Walmart. Just do this once a month to keep roots strong without forcing leggy top growth.

Finally, help both potted plants and newly potted cuttings with routine pinching. Use your fingers or sharp pruning snips to pinch back the top growing tips and emerging flower spikes every few weeks, forcing the plant to branch out into a lush, bushy specimen in good time for spring.

Frequently Asked QuestionsWhy does coleus fail or lose its leaves over winter?

Leaf drop in winter is a cry for help, caused by cold drafts, poor sunlight, or soggy soil. Coleus are sensitive to chilly window glass and furnace blasts, so position them away from drafty doorways or radiators. Low light levels also trigger leaf shedding. Your plant is basically shedding foliage it cannot support. Keep soil lightly damp (not waterlogged) and ensure pots sit in bright, indirect light to keep foliage lush and firm.

When can you safely move indoor coleus back outside?

You can safely transition your overwintered coleus and rooted cuttings back outside in spring once the danger of frost has passed. Wait until night temperatures reliably stay above 50°F (10°C). However, before moving them outdoors, spend a week hardening them off by setting pots in a sheltered, shady outdoor spot during the day and bringing them inside at night to prevent sunburn and cold shock.

Can you grow coleus as an indoor houseplant year-round?

Yes, coleus makes a very adaptable perennial houseplant if provided with the right indoor conditions. To keep it thriving year-round, place it in your sunniest window (or under a full-spectrum grow light) so its vibrant colors stay bold and distinct (just watch out for chilly window glass). The key trick for long-term indoor success is routine pinching. Regularly snip off growing tips and emerging flower spikes to prevent the plant becoming tall and woody, forcing continuous bushy growth.

(Image credit: Catocala7 / Alamy)

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Who knew there were perennials to avoid planting?

I know, I know; fall is an undeniably great time to get these comback kids in the ground, as the weather is cooler, the garden centers are still full of tempting plants, and your new plant baby has the whole dormant season ahead to settle in.

If you are off to do a spot of fall perennial shopping, though, try to remember this: just because a plant is sitting happily on a garden center bench, it doesn't necessarily mean you should take it home. In fact, there is a long list of perennials to avoid, for those who don't want to give themselves a gardening-induced headache later on down the line.

7 Perennials To Avoid Planting This Fall

Why? Well, some perennials are a little too good at spreading. Others can escape the garden and cause problems in natural areas. A few, too, are simply much more difficult to control than their innocent-looking containers would have you believe. And that's particularly easy to forget when a plant is being sold as an attractive, pollinator-friendly or low-maintenance addition to the garden.

Now, I'm not suggesting that every plant on this list of perennials to avoid planting is universally terrible, or that you can never grow any of them. Indeed, in some parts of the US, certain species are perfectly manageable or even considered useful garden plants.

With that caveat in place, then, these are seven plants I'd personally research very carefully before putting them in the ground...

1. Butterfly Bush

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Butterfly bush is almost comically easy to sell to gardeners; it has beautiful flower clusters, attracts butterflies (including, likely, your birth month butterfly), grows quickly and gives you exactly the sort of summer-long color that makes you feel you've made an excellent garden decision.

The problem is that butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii) is non-native to the US and can become invasive in some regions, escaping cultivation and establishing in natural areas. There's another reason to think twice if you're planting specifically for butterflies, too, as butterfly bush might provide nectar for adult butterflies, but it isn't a host plant for their caterpillars.

That means there are often better choices for a wildlife-friendly garden. Try looking for native plants suited to your region, such as this swamp milkweed from Nature Hills, native asters, coneflowers, hyssop, and bee balm.

Make A Butterfly-Friendly Garden:

Save the Monarchs

Burpee Monarch Sanctuary Wildflower Mix

Early Bloomer

Fast-Growing-Trees.com Emerald Blue Creeping Phlox Plants

Posh Protection

Wayfair Gracie Oaks Estas Pollination Palace for Bees, Butterflies, and Ladybugs

2. Periwinkle

(Image credit: Alexander Denisenko / Shutterstock)

Periwinkle is one of those plants that can look almost too well behaved to cause trouble; its glossy evergreen leaves make an attractive groundcover, and its small blue-purple flowers are particularly useful if you're trying to cover a shady area where not much else wants to grow.

Unsurprisingly for seasoned gardeners everywhere, though, that's precisely part of the problem. Yes, periwinkle (Vinca minor) can spread beyond the area where it was planted, forming dense groundcover that can crowd out other vegetation. And once a groundcover has settled in and started creeping underneath shrubs, through borders and beyond garden edges, removing every piece can become considerably less fun than planting it was.

3. Mint

(Image credit: Joaquin Corbalan P / Shutterstock)

Now, before anyone sends me an angry email: I am absolutely not saying you shouldn't grow mint (I love mint!). What I am saying, though, is that I would think very carefully before planting it directly into the ground.

Mint is one of those plants that starts out looking wonderfully innocent. You plant a little clump, harvest a few leaves for drinks and cooking, and congratulate yourself on your excellent decision... and then it takes over your borders and you have to explain to your husband what you did when he wasn't looking. (Yes, fine; I speak from experience).

So my rule is simple: mint in a pot? Absolutely. Mint loose in the garden? No, nay, never! Hey, it's a good excuse to bag yourself a pack of four pre-potted mint plants from The Three Company Store, quite honestly.

4. Hops

(Image credit: jeka1984/Getty Images)

Hops might seem like an innocent choice for adding height and summer interest to the garden. But if you've ever planted one in the wrong spot, you'll know just how quickly those innocent-looking vines can become a problem.

Common hops (Humulus lupulus) is a perennial, but its fast-growing annual bines can reach impressive heights in a single growing season. The plant also spreads via its perennial crown and rhizomes, making established plants surprisingly difficult to keep contained. And that's where hops can become a headache in a mixed border. Give it a support and it will happily climb; give it a nearby shrub, tree or anything else it can wind around, and it may not be quite so easy to control (just ask my poor lilac!).

That's not to say common hops is invasive everywhere; still, its vigour can still make it a poor choice for a small or densely planted garden. Think carefully (and maybe plump for a pollinator-friendly Sweet Autumn Clematis from Nature Hills instead).

5. Lily Of The Valley

(Image credit: Xxposure / Shutterstock)

Lily of the valley is another plant that can be incredibly tempting in a shady garden; its tiny white bell-shaped flowers are beautiful, fragrant and wonderfully old-fashioned, making it easy to understand why gardeners have been planting it for generations.

That being said (I know, I really do sound like a harbinger of doom), lily of the valley can spread aggressively through underground rhizomes, and it can be difficult to contain once established, making it one of those pesky perennials that can spread unexpectedly.

There's another reason I'd be cautious if you have children or pets: the plant is toxic if eaten. And, while that doesn't automatically mean you need to remove an established plant, it does make me think twice before introducing it to a garden where curious hands or mouths could come into contact with it.

7. Burning Bush

(Image credit: Willowpix / Getty Images)

Few shrubs make quite the same impression in fall as burning bush. The foliage turns a brilliant crimson-red, making it incredibly tempting when you're looking for a plant that will give the garden some late-season drama.

The problem? That spectacular fall color comes with a catch, as burning bush is an invasive shrub in parts of the US, where it can escape gardens and spread into natural areas. Its abundant fruits are particularly problematic because birds can eat them and disperse the seeds well beyond the garden.

Still, burning bush has been a popular landscape plant for decades and is frequently used in the gardening industry, even in spite of its invasive behavior is well documented. Instead, why not look for a native shrub that offers brilliant fall color in your region, like red chokeberry, viburnums, dogwoods, or fothergilla?

Shop Fall-Color Shrubs:

Southern Living Viburnum Copper Top Live Shrub in 2-Gallon Grower Pot

WAROON Chokecherry Plant Live for Planting

Brighter Blooms Red Twig Dogwood Shrub

All I am really saying is this: before you put that attractive new perennial in your cart, spend five minutes researching how it behaves in your state, because there's nothing quite so satisfying as planting a perennial in fall and watching it return year after year.

Just make sure it's the perennial you actually intended to plant, rather than the one that eventually decides to plant itself everywhere.

Amanda Seyfried has done something celebrities and the average person dream about and talk about ad nauseam but never actually get around to doing: she’s made her property completely disappear from prying eyes (in her case, nosy paparazzi, and in yours, nosy neighbors). Located in the middle of the Hollywood Hills, the traditional-style house, built in 1916, was just listed for $3.2 million.

It’s tucked away behind gates and tall hedges, despite sitting in one of the most densely populated, paparazzi-adjacent neighborhoods in the world. From the street, it’s basically wearing that invisibility cloak from Harry Potter, but inside, it’s a whole different story.

This is actually the power of privacy planting when it’s done correctly. Unlike most celebrity gardening “inspiration,” you can actually achieve this in your own garden, anywhere in the world.

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Start With a Fast-Growing Evergreen Hedge

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The backbone of this whole look is the tall, dense evergreen hedge that takes care of your privacy all year long, even in winter. In a warmer climate like Los Angeles, Indian laurel fig (Ficus nitida), available from Citronella King on Amazon, is exactly what you want for this type of screening. The iconic "Hollywood hedge", it grows quickly into a full, glossy wall that you can maintain at any height you choose.

Thuja Green Giant arborvitae, available at Trees.com, is the equivalent in a cooler climate, and it’s a real workhorse. Growing three to five feet every year, it has a deep green color that doesn’t turn yellow in winter and a height that gives you some serious privacy rather than the polite suggestion of it.

For boundaries where you don’t necessarily have all the space in the world, Emerald Green arborvitae, available from Plant Addicts, grows to about 12 feet and will stay narrow enough that you can plant it close to a fence line without worrying it’s going to take over the whole garden.

What’s key to all of these is planting in autumn before the soil gets too cold, watering them very well throughout their first summer, and having a little patience (Rome wasn’t built in a day). Most fast-growing hedge plants will give you a noticeable screen within 2 years (that may seem long, but I promise, time flies!)

Shop Privacy Hedges

CitronellaKing Indian Laurel Figs (Ficus nitida) – Set of 3

Emerald Green Arborvitae

Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae

Add Gates and Structure

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Hedges alone won’t give you the “Seyfried effect” (as I will refer to it from now on); you also need gates to carry at least half the load. A boundary that combines tall trees with a solid structure creates the feeling of a mental enclosure for you as well as a physical one. Even a simple timber or metal gate within the hedge line can take your property from exposed to private practically overnight.

If a full gate isn’t in your budget or it’s just not your thing, a pergola or arch over an entryway planted with lovely climbing roses or jasmine can give you something similar with a delightful scent on top. It’s a threshold that tells everyone passing it they are now in a separate world from the street.

Shop Privacy Structures

Winado Iron Arbor

Sunnibety Metal Planter Box With Trellis Privacy Screen

Arlmont & Co. Heavy Duty Birdcage Garden Arch Trellis

Layer the Planting for Depth

(Image credit: Neil Hepworth/RHS)

A single hedge gives you the wall, and layered planting creates the garden, but you still need that middle tier so you don’t have any gaps. You have lots of flowering shrub choices, including viburnum, pittosporum, and Mexican orange blossom; these give you structure year-round, with seasonal interest as an added benefit.

Don’t forget about ground level, which can help fill in the bases of taller plants and keep stems from looking bare and leggy. Plants like ferns, ornamental grasses, and spreading perennials are a great choice. This gives the whole garden a natural, organic quality rather than looking like you had it installed.

Layered planting also makes a boundary feel further away when you're trying to create privacy. This is a useful trick if you’re dealing with a smaller, urban garden where the fence line is close, and the neighbor's windows aren’t far enough.

When done well, privacy planting doesn’t look like a defense mechanism from the world. It looks like a garden you want to be yours and don’t want anyone to see. In a world where most people have their outdoor space visible from 14 different angles, that’s about the most aspirational thing you can have.

You thought you might have trouble with your job. You thought you might have issues with your mother-in-law. But you never imagined you might have to deal with birds pooping on your car.

Stop taking it personally! Your car isn't attracting birds, and birds aren't targeting you. Birds tend to poop wherever they are whenever nature calls. But you can get your car out of harm’s way with a few preventive measures.

Let's explore five ways to stop birds from pooping on cars parked in your driveway, so you can spend less time cleaning bird poop and more time enjoying your outdoor space. These simple changes can help reduce the chances of your car ending up beneath your neighborhood birds' favorite perches.

Why Do Birds Poop on My Car?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Whether you have a rusty old Volkswagen Vanagon or a shiny new Tesla, birds aren't picking your vehicle to dirty with their poop. In fact, it has very little to do with your car at all.

Birds have little control over when or where they poop. Most lack a bladder and a tight sphincter muscle, which means they can't hold back their waste. Instead, whenever the need arises, they simply defecate. If they feel the need as they soar over your patio, they poop on the patio. If they feel the need as they fly above your car, they poop on your car.

There is no one definitive way to prevent birds from pooping on your car. But you can do a number of things to reduce how often it happens. Here are my best tips.

1. Discourage Perching

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Is your driveway shaded by trees? Are you parked beneath electric wires or phone cables? Are there streetlights right above your parking spot? Birds like to rest and congregate in these places. And when a group of birds sits above your car for periods of time, they are likely to poop… on your car.

If overhanging trees are the problem, then trimming the worst offending branches could make a big difference. A telescopic pruning pole, like Fiskars' Extendable 2-in-1 Tree Pruner & Pole Saw with Rotating Head, available on Amazon, extends up to 12 feet, enabling you to tackle branches that overhang the car. If you want to cut your neighbor's tree, then make sure you ask them first.

If there's a ledge or flat roof area near the car that birds like to perch on, then consider fitting bird spikes, like these Bird-X Bird Spikes from Lowe's. As threatening as their name sounds, bird spikes don't harm birds, but they do make it uncomfortable for them to land.

And keep bird feeders and bird baths well away from your driveway. The less attractive you make the area as a place to feed, drink, or perch, the less time birds are likely to spend above your car.

2. Don't Wax Your Car

If your car is shiny and waxed, it can reflect light and appear like a pool of water from above. Water has a relaxing effect on birds, so they may be attracted to it. In addition, during mating season, male birds can get territorial and mistake their mirrored reflection for a rival male. He might mark his territory by pooping on it.

If the idea of a dirty car is too much to bear, you can buy tough, washable car covers that you can hose down every week, like this EzyShade Car Cover on Amazon. It comes in a wide range of shapes and sizes and, in addition to stopping bird poop, will also protect against snow and dust.

3. Scare Them with Sparkle

(Image credit: FotoVSmirnov / Getty Images)

This is an old trick, but it works like a charm. Dangle anything that could reflect sunlight near your parking spot. This might include old pie pans or CDs hung on strings, or even strips of aluminum foil. Moving, shiny objects reflect light and images, which can threaten birds and scare them away.

You can even buy reflective scare tape ribbon, like this one from MP Mypole Store on Amazon, and tie it around tree branches and other structures.

4. Use a Predator Decoy

(Image credit: Mark R Coons/Getty Images)

Might a bird mistake a plastic replica of a bird of prey for a real owl? It's possible. A decoy predator placed on or near the car will certainly make birds think twice before flying over your car. The Dalen Lifelike Great Horned Owl Decoy Bird Repellent, available on Amazon, is well rated and doubles as a charming garden ornament.

A couple of rubber snakes draped across the car is another option that's easy to set up when you get home.

The trick to using predator decoys is to move them every day or two. Otherwise, the birds will soon realize it's a fake.

5. Rethink Your Car Color

Do birds deliberately poop on dark or brightly colored cars? It seems unlikely. A few small studies have suggested that black, brown, or red cars may attract more bird droppings than white or silver ones, but there's no solid evidence that birds deliberately target certain colors. As for why, it's mostly speculation. I'm not convinced, so I'd call changing your car color a last resort – if you get really desperate!

Shop Bird Deterrents

Mp Mypole Bird Scare Tape Ribbon

Bird-X Bird Spikes Bird Repellent

Dalen Lifelike Great Horned Owl Decoy Bird Repellent

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

3738 West 24th Ave., Vancouver

Type: Two-bedroom, three-bathroom detached

Size: 2,448 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $2,476,500

Listed for: $2,275,000

Sold for: $2,100,000

Sold on: July 25

Days on market in this listing: 36

Listing agent: Colette Gerber at Heller Murch Realty

Buyers agent: William Li at Renanza Realty Inc.

The big sell: According to listing agent Colette Gerber, the value of this south-facing property was mainly in the land thanks to its location west of Dunbar with some of Vancouver’s top schools and myriad conveniences that line Dunbar Street nearby, as well as the potential for a new build to also enjoy views to the north. The current home was built in 1925 and has a simple floor plan with a kitchen, bathroom, dining and living rooms on the main floor and two bedrooms, a bathroom and an office upstairs. There is a spacious covered porch at the front of the house, stained glass windows, hardwood floors with inlay detailing, crown molding, a gas fireplace, and an AGA stove in the kitchen offset by a traditional tiled backsplash. The garden has plenty of opportunity to keep green thumbs busy and for piece of mind, a certificate shows that the oil tank had been removed.

710 — 2888 Cambie St., Vancouver

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom apartment

Size: 1,633 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,873,000

Listed for: $1,999,800

Sold for: $1,985,000

Sold on: June 24

Days on market in this listing: Six

Listing agent: Jessica Chen PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Jannelle de la Torre and Teresa Comeau at ReMax Select Realty

The big sell: What is unique about the sale of this condo in Vancouver’s Mount Pleasant neighbourhood is that it sold alongside the adjacent unit giving the ability to combine the two and create a five-bedroom one-level suite that expands the layout to 2,800 square feet. The homes reside in The Spot on Cambie Street, a mid-rise concrete building that was built in 2017 with central air conditioning, concierge services, a fitness centre, rooftop terrace and EV-ready parking. This particular unit has a northeasterly corner position with an interior design that demonstrates Craftsman-inspired finishings with wide hallways, custom built-ins, a gourmet Bosch kitchen, upgraded lighting, and an 800-square-foot private terrace with panoramic North Shore Mountain and city vistas. Combined with the neighbouring property, there will be six parking stalls in total and two storage lockers, while the strata permits pets and rentals.

8340 Lunen Rd., Richmond

Type: Five-bedroom, four-bathroom detached

Size: 3,648 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $2,218,000

Listed for: $2,099,000

Sold for: $1,965,000

Sold on: July 24

Days on market in this listing: 14

Listing agent: Shafik Ladha PREC at ReMax Westcoast

Buyers agent: Margaret Song PREC at Macdonald Realty Westmar

The big sell: This split-level home resides on a lot size in excess of 9,200 square feet in Richmond’s Garden City district. Built in 1976, it features four bedrooms on the upper floor and one ensuited bedroom on the ground floor alongside the main living space, a media room and an open den. The house was fully updated inside and out with a permitted expansion added in 1994 that included a wok kitchen, a south-facing breakfast nook, and a spacious family room. The ground floor features vaulted ceilings with skylights and a floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace in the living room, a formal dining area next to the well-equipped kitchen, and an enclosed 200-square-foot sunroom that leads out to the landscaped south-facing backyard complete with a water fountain surrounded by a rockery. There is also an integrated double garage to the front of the property with additional driveway parking.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

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The second saddest seasonal take-down, after the Christmas tree, is packing away the patio furniture. It slaps you with the cold, clear reality that summer is over and winter weather is just around the corner.

But you’ll be even sadder next summer if you discover your outdoor furniture didn’t survive the elements. To ensure those tables, chairs, loungers and umbrellas are protected while in hibernation, it’s important to store them properly. After all, summer is only nine months away.

What to leave out

Rain, snow, ice and freezing temperatures — and the inevitable freeze-thaw cycles — can wreak havoc on your precious patio set, causing wood to crack, metal to rust, plastic to warp and fabrics to stiffen. So before nighttime temps dip below freezing, have a plan to safeguard your set from the worst-case scenarios.

Jerry Schmidt, owner of Vancouver Sofa & Patio in Richmond, says some outdoor furniture can withstand cold, rain and snow better than others, especially if they’re on a covered deck or porch. Those include items that are made with recycled plastic, such as from Canadian manufacturer CR Plastic Products. “It’s the same plastic used for outdoor playground slides, which stay out all year long and doesn’t break down,” he says.

Powder coated aluminum, such as the Vienna or Milano collection from Ratana, will also hold up well outside and won’t rust, he says. “If you do get rust on your set, lightly sand it down and use an enamel paint (spray paint) to cover the rusted areas.” Some experts suggest applying a coating of wax for extra protection.

Other materials that can withstand rain and snow include high-density polyethylene, high-quality synthetic resin wicker with aluminum frames, and treated teak, although it’s ideal to use covers or bring it inside to extend its lifespan.

Steel and wrought iron are highly durable but susceptible to corrosion, so it’s advisable to keep them well covered if leaving them outside in cold weather.

Schmidt advises brushing any accumulated snow off cushioned furniture because the weight may cause the seat to sag, depending on the material. In fact, some experts recommend placing a bucket or something similar under a cover or tarp to create a peak so water or snow can slide off. Avoid laying plastic tarps directly on furniture, though, since it traps moisture which can lead to mold. It’s also a good idea to leave a couple of inches of space between the bottom of the cover and the ground to allow for airflow and prevent moisture build-up.

What to leave in

Furniture that should be brought in from the cold include anything upholstered, as well as rugs, umbrellas, pillows and cushions. “If you have the (indoor) space, they will last longer and be in better shape,” says Schmidt. “Outside, you risk rodents getting in there and making quite the mess of your beautiful set.”

Schmidt recommends bringing your cushions inside to keep them completely dry. He says a high-quality fabric, such as Sunbrella, will help prevent mold and mildew. You may still want to store pillows and cushions separately in breathable bags or plastic bins with lids.

Other items worth storing inside include natural wicker, which absorbs moisture; stone and glass tabletops, which can crack; wooden furniture, which can absorb moisture and is vulnerable to fluctuating temperatures causing it to crack and split; and glass fiber reinforced concrete, which is porous and can crack.

Stuart Ilott, president of Patio Gurus and Wizard Screens & Shades in Burnaby, recommends storing outdoor umbrellas indoors. “Make sure the canopy is completely dry before closing it, remove the umbrella from its base and, if possible, store it somewhere dry and protected. Avoid storing it while damp, as moisture left between the folded layers can lead to mildew and fabric deterioration.”

Ideal storage spaces include a clean shed, basement or heated storage unit (especially for wood, wicker and fabrics) to protect against freezing temperatures. Weatherproof deck boxes, made of plastic, resin or suitable wood, are also good for storing accessories like small cushions or pillows. Try to keep your boxes under overhead shelters like eaves or roof overhangs for extra protection against driving rain, heavy snow, and ice.

Schmidt says if you don’t have the indoor space, “Get a good set of weather covers and the furniture should be fine.” A good set, he says, includes Ecoloom by Ratana, as well as Duck covers, which hold up well in B.C.’s wet climate.

Ilott says, “When choosing a furniture cover, look for one that is water-resistant, breathable and properly fitted. The goal is to keep rain and moisture off while still allowing air to circulate. A cover that traps condensation underneath can create its own problems over the winter. It’s also a good idea to check on covered furniture occasionally and remove the cover on a dry day to allow everything to air out.”

Also, look for tie-downs, elastic hems or buckles to avoid it being blown away in the wind.

And don’t forget your grill and fire pit, which will also benefit from custom covers.

Wash and dry

Before covering or storing your deck set, make sure it’s clean and completely dry. “If dirt, pet hair or other organic material is in the frame or cushions, that’s where mold and mildew will grow,” says Schmidt. “Even if your set is resistant to this, the dirt will allow it to start growing.”

Most experts recommend a soft cloth and simple solution of mild dish soap and water to clean metal and plastic frames, a brush to reach crevices on wicker, vacuum and/or soft bristled brush to remove dirt, debris and leaves from fabric and cushions. Rinse soap residue and dry thoroughly.

“For wood furniture, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for cleaning and treatment, as different types of wood require different care,” says Ilott.

Schmidt also advises you periodically check your stored outdoor furniture for any signs of mold or pest infestation. “The earlier you discover a problem, the quicker you can deal with it and save your furniture.”

Some experts recommend you store your outdoor furniture raised on blocks, especially on concrete floors, which can draw moisture up, damaging legs and frames, particularly wood.

If leaving it outside covered, keep your furniture right side up, since storing tables and chairs upside down can allow water to seep into drain holes and freeze, which can damage aluminum.

And be careful stacking aluminum so it doesn’t scratch.

Before you stash everything away, this is also a good time to tighten any loose bolts or screws, sand and repaint any rusted areas, and apply sealant to wood furniture to prevent moisture seeping in.

“The general rule is simple: clean it, dry it and protect it before the wet weather arrives,” says Ilott. “A little preparation in the fall can go a long way toward keeping outdoor furniture looking good and ready to use when spring arrives.”

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A peace lily parked in the same corner it occupied all summer is probably getting less light than it did in August. October is the month to adjust for that, along with a few other small things.

Houseplant trouble in winter often gets blamed on the furnace. But in October, the bigger culprit is usually the light. Days are shorter now, and the sun sits lower, so a corner that seemed plenty bright in July can dim without anyone noticing. Growth slows down, and the potting mix stays wet longer after each watering.

Good peace lily care this month is mostly about adjusting where the plant sits, plus a bit of cleanup below the soil line. September was all about easing off the water and giving the last feeding of the year. October picks up from there. The jobs are small, and one of them is really just paying attention. You can do them in any order – though flushing the pot is better done earlier in the month.

1. Move It Closer to the Light

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum spp.) are often chosen for their ability to tolerate low light, and that part of their reputation holds up fine. But low light is something they survive – it is not a desirable growing situation. A plant kept too dark over winter tends to put out smaller leaves on long, floppy stems. An east-facing window that worked all summer might need trading for a south-facing one now.

Scorch is much less of a risk under October sun than in midsummer. Even so, 3 feet (1 m) back from a bright south-facing window is the safer spot. Turn the pot a quarter every week or two. Otherwise, it leans.

A peace lily without flowers this month isn't a problem, either. Most tend to bloom sometime between winter and late summer.

2. Keep the Leaves off Cold Glass

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Black leaf tips after a cold snap? That's often a chilling injury, not a disease. It usually starts at the tips and edges of older leaves and creeps inward from there. Growth can slow at 50°F (10°C) or below, before anything shows at all. A leaf pressed to a windowpane on a 40°F (4°C) night could get much colder than the room.

Pull the pot a few inches back from the glass and keep it away from exterior doors that let in a blast every time someone walks through. Heating vents are no better. I like to check the temperature of my windowsills using the TempPro TP50 digital thermometer, available on Amazon. It records highs and lows, so if you place it next to the pot for a night, it will show just how cold that windowsill gets.

3. Flush the Pot, Then Put the Fertilizer Away

(Image credit: Getty Images)

That crusty white ring on the soil, or along the pot rim, is usually mineral salt. Fertilizer leaves it behind. Hard tap water does too, once the moisture evaporates. Peace lilies aren't salt-tolerant, so brown, crispy leaf tips are often the first sign of buildup.

Scrape off the crust first, taking no more than about ¼ inch (6 mm) of potting mix with it. Then set the pot in a sink or tub and pour water through slowly until roughly twice the pot's volume has drained out the bottom. For a 6-inch (15 cm) pot, that's about 10 cups (2.4L).

Flush your peace lily pot early in the fall – or at least before the heat comes on for good – so the mix has time to dry. After that, don't feed again until new growth shows up in spring. Water only when the potting mix feels dry.

If you're not sure when to water peace lilies or plants in general, then I recommend getting a moisture meter like the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon, which also checks temperature, light levels, and soil pH.

4. Keep an Eye Out for Fungus Gnats

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Tiny dark flies drifting up off the pot are most likely fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.), not fruit flies. Adults are mostly a nuisance. Their larvae live in the top inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of damp potting mix and feed on organic matter, sometimes on fine roots as well. Cooler rooms keep the mix wetter for longer. Gnats like that.

A dry top inch (2.5cm) between waterings goes a long way toward breaking the cycle. Pick up a pack of Expert Gardener Plant Insect Sticky Traps from Walmart, and tuck one in at the edge of every plant pot. This helps control them and gives a rough count of the adults.

Drier soil and bottom watering are the best long-term cure for fungus gnats. You can use any plastic tray, but I like this Ebristar bottom watering tray from Amazon as you can adjust the height easily.

To check for fungus gnat larvae, a little trick is to press a ¼-inch (6 mm) slice of raw potato into the potting mix and look underneath after a day or two.

5. Add a Grow Light for Darker Rooms

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Not every home has a south-facing window to spare. Supplemental light can make up the difference, and foliage plants often do well with 12 to 16 hours of light a day through the darker months. It's pretty easy to set up these days.

A grow light, like this Sansi pot-clip LED grow light on Amazon, clips onto the rim and has a timer that shuts it off after 12 hours. Start it a little farther from the leaves than seems necessary. If new growth stays small after a few weeks, ease it closer. Pale, washed-out leaves usually mean it's gone too far the other way.

October Peace Lily Esssentials

Expert Gardener Plant Insect Sticky Traps, 12 Pack

Yamron 4-In-1 Soil Moisture Meter

Sansi Pot Clip-On Plant Light

By November, a peace lily set up this way mostly just needs a glance now and then. The next real push tends to come in late winter – fresh leaves first, and with some luck, a white spathe or two not long after.

A Christmas cactus dropping its leaves in October is a common problem, but it’s easily fixed as long as you act quickly. Do nothing, however, and you’ll not only miss out on this winter’s blooms but your plant may be at real risk of collapse and death. Dropped leaf segments are a strong signal that your Christmas cactus is in distress and needs your help, so great work getting here to Garden ER where you'll find straightforward solutions to treat this season’s biggest planty problems.

So, if you're wondering what to do if your Christmas cactus drops a leaf, you're in the right place. Your Schlumbergera x buckleyii is very sensitive to environmental changes and it’s highly likely there’s been a recent shift, whether that’s the plant being moved indoors after a summer holiday on the patio, or simply the central heating being switched on.

But don’t fret. Once you’ve decided which of the five causes is behind the leaf drop, and take swift action, the prognosis for your houseplant is excellent. You may even still be able to trick your Christmas cactus into flowering for the holiday season. Come on in to Garden ER and let’s diagnose and treat your Christmas cactus.

Triage: How Many Leaves Has Your Christmas Cactus Dropped?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Christmas cactus do often drop a segment, or pad, when there’s a change of season. If your plant has only dropped three or fewer pads in the space of the last week, it’s likely suffering from minor shock after a change in its environment, and the basic nursing outlined below in addition to essential Christmas cactus care will quickly restore it to health.

However, if you’ve ignored these early warnings and your houseplant is now dropping four or more segments in a week, or losing multi-segmented branches, it’s likely in severe shock and will require intensive care if it’s to recover. Leave a Christmas cactus to fend for itself in this condition and it’ll likely be dead within a fortnight.

Diagnosis: What’s Caused Your Houseplant to Drop its Leaves?

Sacrificing leaf segments is usually caused by environmental stress following a change, so it’s vital to work out what's troubling your houseplant so you can remove that trigger. That's easily done by examining the lost leaf pads.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)1. Do the Dropped Segments Look Green and Healthy?

Any change in its living space can cause a sensitive Christmas cactus to drop a pad or two, but the plant should quickly recover. If the plant has moved from outdoors to indoors, that’s likely the cause, but there may be other changes associated with the move – for example, a change in watering routine – so it’s important to check out other possible causes too.

2. Do the Segments Feel Crispy and Brittle?

Your plant is likely dehydrated and the probable cause is that the central heating has come on, and your plant is sitting near to a radiator or heater vent. Try to bend the dropped pad and it will likely snap. Segments may be a paler green, or becoming edged in a maroon tone is another sign that points to heat stress.

3. Are the Segments Limp But Still Green?

Even if your Christmas cactus is positioned well away from heat sources, the heating coming on may be drying out the air, causing this humidity-loving plant to struggle, and this is another common problem often seen in October.

4. Are the Segments Limp But Wrinkled and Leathery?

Your plant is dehydrated, and the cause is likely severe underwatering. Christmas cactus evolved to grow in rainforests, not dry deserts, so need regular watering.

5. Do the Segments Feel Plump and Mushy?

If pads feel soft and mushy when squeezed, they’re likely full of water because the plant has been overwatered. This may be because you’ve watered your Christmas cactus too often – and this is easy to do in October as the plant requires less water as the days start to shorten – or it’s been left outside for too long once seasonal rainfall has increased. Leaves are also likely to be a slightly see-through yellow or sickly green tone if overwatering is the cause.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Treatment: How to Help a Cactus That’s Dropping Leaves

It's vital to remove the cause before fixing the symptoms by giving your Christmas cactus the care it needs.

If Heat or Drought Stress is the Cause

Place the plant in a spot where the temperature sits fairly consistently around 60-70°F (a cheap indoor thermometer like this from Amazon makes it easy), in bright indirect sunlight and away from hot blasts or cold draughts. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole and water your Christmas cactus only – but regularly – when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Using a moisture meter such as this long-probe soil meter from Amazon removes any guesswork.

If you suspect a lack of humidity is a problem – and it will become a problem for you, too, as this is the prime reason Christmas cactus drop their flower buds – it’s simple to fix. Simply stand the pot on a pebble tray such as this Bonsai pebble tray such as this from Lowe’s, or make your own with a plant saucer and pea gravel pebbles such as this Landscape Rock from The Home Depot. It’s vital that the pot base sits on the pebbles and not in the water, so the roots don’t rot. You’re simply using the water to humidify the air as it evaporates.

If Over-Watering is the Cause

If you’ve diagnosed your Christmas cactus with overwatering, treatment is more intense, but if the base is still green and firm, there’s still hope.

Remove the plant from its pot and if there’s a sour smell, use a brush to remove most of the soggy soil, and scissors to cut off any black roots. Repot into a pot with drainage holes (wash the pot well if you’re reusing) with an indoor potting mix such as Back to the Roots Indoor Potting Mix, available from Amazon, with a handful or orchid bark like this from Amazon mixed in for good measure.

If the soil still smells sweet and the roots aren’t dark or slimy, all you need do is stand the cactus in its inner plastic pot on an old towel in an evenly warm room with good airflow to let the soil dry out. Then follow the essential care tips outlined above.

If the base of your Christmas cactus has turned a dark tone and feels mushy, then your plant is a goner. May we offer our condolences.

Patient Notes

Don’t throw away healthy dropped segments as you can easily use them to propagate free Christmas cactus plants by pushing the base ends into a cactus potting mix such as Black Gold Succulent & Cactus Potting Mix, available from Walmart.

(Image credit: Getty Images)More Garden ER Help

Every week, the Garden ER series brings you simple solutions to this season's most pressing problems, for happy and healthy plants without any hassle.

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Work out what your peace lily needs to recover if spathes develop brown patches or look dry and crispy around the edges.

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Here's everything you need to know to prevent common fungal disease, powdery mildew, starving your plants of nutrients.

There's something about an owl that makes it feel a little more mysterious than almost any other bird. Maybe it's those enormous eyes, the uncanny ability to fly almost completely silently, or simply the fact that while most of us are settling down for the evening, these fascinating birds are only just getting started.

From tiny owls that can fit comfortably into the palm of your hand to formidable predators capable of taking down surprisingly large prey, there is an incredible amount of variety hidden beneath that familiar silhouette.

And after looking at the bird of prey associated with each birth month, I couldn't resist taking a closer look at owls in particular...

All 12 Birth Month Owls

Now, we’re already familiar with the idea of a birth month bird, birth month animal, and birth month bug (oh yes, I'm deadly serious!), but each species of owl has its own distinctive habits, characteristics, and quirks, making these beautiful raptors ideal for matching up with our personalities.

You might be independent like a snowy owl, quietly observant like a barn owl, or considerably more formidable than your small stature suggests, like a northern pygmy owl.

So, turn down the lights, embrace your nocturnal side, and grab yourself a motion-activated wildlife camera with night vision, like the GardePro on Amazon. It's time to find out which owl matches your birth month...

January – Great Horned Owl

(Image credit: pchoui/Getty Images)

If you're a January baby, you're the great horned owl: confident, formidable and not particularly interested in being told what to do. There's a certain authority to this particular bird that makes it a fitting match for the first month of the year; after all, it's a powerful and adaptable predator, recognizable by its prominent ear tufts and deep hooting call.

Like this owl, you probably aren't afraid to take up space. You're protective of the people and things you care about, you're capable of handling difficult situations, and when you have decided what you want, good luck talking you out of it!

Now, great horned owls occupy a remarkably wide range of habitats across the US, including woodlands, open country and areas close to people. What better reason, then, to buy yourself an Owl House from Amazon?

February – Snowy Owl

(Image credit: FotoRequest/Getty Images)

February belongs to the Snowy Owl, which feels appropriate for a bird of prey that looks as though it was designed specifically for winter.

If you're a February baby, you're independent, resilient and perhaps a little more comfortable doing your own thing than following the crowd. Snowy Owls are famously associated with Arctic environments, and their striking white plumage provides camouflage in snowy surroundings.

You're also likely to be adaptable when circumstances demand it. Snowy Owls don't simply stay put in the far north all year, and some travel considerable distances south during winter.

In other words, you're perfectly capable of changing course when you need to.

Shop Owl Boxes:

JCs Wildlife Recycled Poly Lumber Barred Owl Nesting Box

If you’re serious about giving owls a durable, long‑lasting home, this heavy‑duty barn owl nest box is built to last.

AnNowshua Ling Owl Houses for Outdoors

A beautiful mix of form and function, this wooden owl house is ideal for attracting a range of wild owls, garden wildlife, and backyard biodiversity.

BFAZKXY Owl Houses for Outdoors

If you’re looking for a versatile owl box that can accommodate multiple species, this model is a solid mid‑range choice for your garden or backyard habitat.

March – Eastern Screech Owl

(Image credit: Larry Keller, Lititz Pa./Getty Images)

March babies get the eastern screech owl, which means their birth month owl is small, adaptable and considerably more resourceful than its size might suggest. You may not always be the loudest person in the room, but that doesn't mean you're not paying attention. Eastern Screech-Owls are remarkably adaptable birds that can live in woodland, farmland and suburban environments, provided suitable habitat is available.

That makes them a fitting match for anyone who tends to make the best of whatever situation they find themselves in. Because, much like your feathered friend, you're practical, observant and probably rather good at finding solutions that other people overlook.

April – Burrowing Owl

(Image credit: Troy Harrison/Getty Images)

April belongs to one of the more unusual members of the owl family: the burrowing owl. Unlike many owls that spend their days tucked away in trees, burrowing owls are strongly associated with open country and, as their name suggests, underground burrows. They have an unusually long-legged appearance and an alert, almost comically expressive look.

If you're an April baby, you're probably a little unconventional yourself. You're curious, energetic and happy to do things your own way. And I am very confident in suggesting, too, that you might also be the person who sees an opportunity where everyone else sees a problem. Sound familiar? I bet it does!

May – Barn Owl

(Image credit: Alan Walker/Getty Images)

One of the most iconic birds of all time (hey, this little beauty shared a screen with David Bowie in Labyrinth!), May's birth month owl is the graceful, observant, and quietly intuitive barn owl.

With their pale, heart-shaped faces and almost ghostly appearance, barn owls are among the most instantly recognizable owls in the US. They're also superb nocturnal hunters, using their exceptional hearing to locate prey even when visibility is poor.

If this is your birth month owl, you may be someone who notices things other people miss. You don't necessarily need to be the center of attention; you'd rather watch, listen, and work things out for yourself. And when you do finally make your move, it's usually with considerably more precision than anyone expected.

Shop Plants For A Nocturnal Paradise:

Heart Light

Nature Hills Nursery Jack Frost Brunnera

These perennials promise a lifetime of low-maintenance illumination in the shade, topped off with sky-blue spring blossoms deer ignore.

The Night-Blooming Beauty

Daisy Ship Night Blooming Jasmine

Night-blooming jasmine does exactly what it says on the tin; releases a rich, sweet scent after sunset, filling your garden or patio with its signature tropical aroma.

Woodland Shimmer

Daylily Nursery Japanese Painted Ferns for Shade

A little treat for your yard’s dampest corners, this robust fern showcases an award-winning tapestry of metallic silver, dusty blue, and fading purple red ribs.

June – Great Gray Owl

(Image credit: Gannet77/Getty Images)

The great gray owl is one of the largest-looking owls in North America, making it a pretty spectacular birth month owl to call your own. If you're a June baby, you're thoughtful, patient and perhaps slightly mysterious. Great gray owls have an imposing appearance, but much of that apparent size comes from their exceptionally thick plumage rather than sheer body mass.

You're probably the type who doesn't rush into things. You'd rather observe, gather information and decide when the time is right. And while people might underestimate you because you're quiet, there's considerably more going on beneath the surface.

July – Saw Whet Owl

(Image credit: Scott Suriano/Getty Images)

If you're born in July, your birth month owl is one of North America's smallest owls: the saw whet owl. Don't let the diminutive size fool you, though, for these little owls are capable predators, and they're far more interesting than their modest stature might suggest.

If you're a July baby, you're curious, private and quietly determined. You might prefer a small circle of close friends to a room full of strangers, but once something captures your attention, you're not easily distracted.

You're also probably the person who gets underestimated exactly once.

Want to welcome more birds of prey to your yard? Keep the area as natural and inviting as possible, then, with plants like these:

Northern Sea Oats Grass

Graceful, airy seed heads provide shelter and vertical structure.

Crimson Comet Buttonbush - #3 Container

Round clusters of white blooms in wetlands or moist areas attract insects and other critters.

Shenandoah Switch Grass

Shenandoah Switch Grass adds graceful movement and deep red tips that catch the evening light.

August – Western Screech Owl

(Image credit: Scott Suriano/Getty Images)

August belongs to the western screech owl, which means that you (much like your feathered friend here) are adaptable, self-reliant and considerably less conspicuous than you deserve to be.

These small owls can make use of a surprisingly broad range of habitats, including woodland, desert and suburban environments in parts of the western US. And this makes them a good match for August babies, who are likely to be practical and independent without feeling the need to advertise it.

You're good at making yourself comfortable wherever you happen to land, and you probably don't need much fuss to get on with things. All hail that kind of energy, quite frankly!

September – Short Eared Owl

(Image credit: Claire Hogg/Getty Images)

September's birth month owl is one that's famed for being alert, adventurous and happiest when it has room to move. I'm talking, of course, about the short-eared owl!

Unlike many owls that spend much of their time hunting from wooded habitats, short-eared owls are strongly associated with open country. They're also unusual among owls for often being active around dusk and dawn, rather than exclusively under cover of darkness.

If you're a September baby, you're probably observant but restless in the best possible way. You like having options, you notice what's happening around you and you're not particularly interested in being boxed in. Which is, yes, one of the world's favorite things about you, so own it!

October – Barred Owl

(Image credit: Scott Suriano/Getty Images)

Halloween month belongs to the barred owl, a particularly fitting match for anyone who likes a little personality with their wildlife.

Barred owls are recognizable by their distinctive brown-and-white barred plumage and rounded heads, but perhaps their most memorable characteristic is their vocalization. Their familiar hooting call has been described in a variety of ways, and they can be surprisingly vocal.

If you're an October baby, you're probably sociable, expressive and not especially afraid to make yourself heard. You may also have a slightly mischievous streak, and, if you're anything like yours truly, very fond of karaoke (even if you're not necessarily the best at it!).

November – Long Eared Owl

(Image credit: DamianKuzdak/Getty Images)

November babies get the long eared owl, which might be the most mysterious member of this list of birth month owls. Why? Well, because long eared owls are slender birds with prominent ear tufts that give them a particularly serious expression. They're also secretive and can be remarkably difficult to spot despite being widespread across parts of North America (which is why it's a good idea to arm yourself with these TSO Polar HD 10x50 Binoculars from Amazonif you want to spy one).

If this is your birth month owl, you're observant, private and probably rather good at keeping a secret. You don't necessarily need everyone to know what you're thinking. In fact, you're quite happy watching from the sidelines until you decide there's a reason to get involved.

December –Northern Pygmy Owl

(Image credit: Andyworks/Getty Images)

Last but not least, December belongs to the northern pygmy owl, which means you likely have one of the biggest personalities on this list (despite being one of its smallest owls).

Now, don't be fooled; northern pygmy owls are tiny, but they are still formidable predators. They're active during the day more often than many other owl species and can take prey surprisingly large relative to their own size.

That makes them a fitting match for anyone who refuses to let their size, circumstances or other people's expectations dictate what they're capable of. Because, just like December babies, they're bold, energetic and probably more fearless than people initially assume.

Whichever owl you are, take care that the very next time you're outside after dark, you listen carefully. You may not always see an owl (they're rather good at avoiding that) but there's always the possibility that one is watching from somewhere nearby.

And if it happens to be the owl associated with your birth month? Well, I think that's a pretty good sign for the year ahead, personally...

As a thrifty gardener, I’m always looking for free alternatives to more expensive tools and gadgets. One of my favorite low-cost swaps is a plastic storage tote. You probably have a few extras lying around your basement or garage. And even if you’ve lost the lids or the totes have cracks in them, you can still use them as alternatives for several gardening products that can be quite costly.

I always save old totes that I'm no longer using to store clothes, extra bedding, or holiday decorations inside anymore. There are few ways to recycle these items in the garden that require minimal modifications. They’re low-cost, easily available, and you can put them to use in your garden in just a few minutes.

In this latest installment of our Dirt Cheap Gardening series, I’ll show you my favorite ways to give a plastic storage tote a second life in your garden and save money in the process.

More Dirt Cheap Gardening Tips

• 4 Clever Ways to Recycle To-Go Boxes in Your Garden
• Why Smart Gardeners Are Saving Cardboard Boxes
• 4 Reasons Why Always Save Old Toilet Paper Rolls

1. Mini Greenhouse

(Image credit: Jonas Rönnbro / Getty Images)

This is my favorite way to use a plastic storage tote in the garden. It requires no modifications to the tote at all and costs nothing! The only caveat is that you need a clear plastic storage bin, like this one from Walmart. Obviously, a colored tote will not be able to let light through to reach your plants.

To turn a plastic tote into a mini greenhouse, all you have to do is flip the tote upside down and vent it. Vent your tote by placing a brick or rock under one side of it to allow airflow and let heat escape. Close it up at night to protect tender plants from freezing temperatures and reopen again in the morning. You can either use the lid as a base to hold your seedlings or small, tender plants or if you’ve lost track of the lid, you can simply place the tote directly on the ground.

A lid can come in handy when using your mini greenhouse for seed starting. It can act as a sort of water catch tray that waters your delicate seedlings from the bottom as an alternative to overhead watering. Just pour water into the lid and let the plants soak it up through the drainage holes in the bottom of their containers.

Make sure to vent your plastic storage tote greenhouse, so you don’t accidentally fry your plants inside. I had this happen one morning when I slept in late and forgot to crack open the lid.

By 10am, the sun was blazing down on my greenhouse and my plants were literally smoking when I opened the tote. Luckily, my plants recouped quickly and that was the best year I’ve ever had in my vegetable garden – I think partially thanks to the early start I was able to get with my plastic storage bin greenhouse.

Once your seedlings are big enough to plant outside in the spring, the tote makes it easy to carry them out to the garden.

2. Seed Starting Tray

(Image credit: Xiuxia Huang / Getty Images)

If you have some smaller plastic storage bins like these ones from Target lying around, they make wonderful seed starting trays. This DIY seed starting tray idea takes a little more work than the greenhouse idea, but it only takes a minute to do.

Use a drill or a hot metal skewer to make several drainage holes in the bottom of your tote. How many holes you need to make depends on the size of your tote, but aim for at least a handful per square foot of area. Be careful when making the holes not to poke yourself as the tool goes through the plastic. Trying to make a hole with just a knife or scissors is not a good idea because it’s easier to hurt yourself that way and you’re more likely to crack the brittle plastic bottom of the tote.

Once you’ve made your holes, it’s time to fill your new seed starting tray with a good seed starting mix – I always have good results with this mix from Miracle-Gro. Then plant your seeds, water, and watch them grow. If you have a lid, that’s definitely a bonus for this project. Place the lid under the tote to catch any water that leaks out when watering your seedlings. Or you can try bottom watering using the lid.

If you have another plastic tote of the same or larger size as the one you turned into a seed starting tray, you can place that over the top to create a mini greenhouse to help seedlings stay warm on a drafty windowsill or outside in the late winter to early spring months.

3. Mini Raised Bed

(Image credit: Xiuxia Huang / Getty Images)

If you can plant seeds in a small plastic tote, then you can certainly grow bigger plants in a large plastic tote like this one from Home Depot. Use a drill to make holes in the bottom of your tote to turn it into a small DIY raised bed that can fit on almost any porch, patio, balcony, or backyard.

For this project, you don’t need a clear tote – any color will do – and you don’t need a lid either. Simply make your drainage holes, fill the tote with your preferred raised bed potting mix. I like to use a mix of potting soil and organic compost, which you can get at the Home Depot. Then all you have to do is plant!

Plastic totes are great for growing a variety of vegetables. Potatoes do very well in these containers! Just make sure to use a large enough tote to allow for good root growth. Your tote should be at least 15 inches (28 cm) or so to let plants sink their roots deep into the soil.

Plastic totes aren’t as durable as metal or wooden raised beds, so they will likely only last a few years outside in the sun. But they’re a great alternative for gardeners who are short on cash and space.

Terracotta pots may look beautiful but many popular plants struggle to grow in the conditions they create, and would be far happier in a cheap plastic planter. Traditional unglazed terracotta pots are made from porous clay, which constantly wicks moisture from the soil in dry weather. This 360° drainage is a distinct advantage for some plants that love dry conditions, but it can sound a death knell for others.

So, if you’re a fan of container gardening and growing plants in terracotta pots, it’s best you check. Some of the best perennial plants for patio pots loathe growing within clay walls, however much you tend to them, so it’s highly likely one’s struggling in your yard right now. There are plenty of plants that flourish in terracotta pots, though, so an afternoon spent pot-swapping could transform how your garden fares.

I’ve compiled a list of the top plants you should never, ever plant in a terracotta pot. Rehome these much-loved garden plants into glazed ceramic, fiberstone, resin or plastic planters instead, and they’ll not only thrive in the more consistent moisture that's locked into soil for lush foliage and longer-lasting flowers, but you’ll cut your container watering time to enjoy a more low-maintenance yard to boot.

1. Hydrangea

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Hydrangeas are thirsty plants with a high water requirement, so should never be planted in a terracotta container. Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf or mophead hydrangea) with its large leaves that create a huge surface area for water to evaporate from is the most moisture-hungry of the lot, so this will really fail to flourish in a terracotta pot. And if a hydrangea’s soil keeps drying out while it’s forming its flowerbuds, it may not bloom at all.

Hydrangeas also have surprisingly shallow root systems – which is why such a big shrub can be successfully grown in the confines of a container in the first place. Because terracotta retains heat from the sun, roots can easily become scorched in peak summer heat, adding to the likelihood of crispy leaves, browning blooms and dramatic – and perhaps fatal – flopping.

2. Hostas

(Image credit: Ekaterina Goncharova / Getty Images)

Another favourite for patio pots that loves consistently damp soil and rapidly dries out because of the large surface area of leaves, hostas shouldn’t be grown in terracotta planters. If you are, now you know why the leaves always have crispy brown margins, despite your regular watering routine.

3. Soft-Leaved Ferns

(Image credit: Tatiana Terekhina / Getty Images)

Many ferns have evolved to grow on moist rainforest floors or shady streambanks, so naturally appreciate damp soil. As a rule of thumb, if a fern has soft, thin or lacy leaves, it shouldn’t be grown in an unglazed terracotta pot – which makes clay containers an absolute no-no for maidenhair, ostrich and Boston ferns.

Ferns with thick, glossy leaves are far better able to tolerate drier conditions – and some actively appreciate life in a terracotta pot. Bird’s nest fern evolved to live high in the tree canopy so loves the airflow of a breathable terracotta pot, while Hart’s tongue fern needs its sharp drainage because it naturally grows in rocky crevices. So if you have a fern growing in a terracotta pot, take a closer look at its leaves and origin story.

4. Azaleas

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Another reason why some plants fail to flourish in a terracotta pot is because the natural clay creates slightly alkaline conditions. Over time, that can affect the pH levels of soil, which can be a problem for acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. It’ll become a problem for you too, because flowers can be less vibrant if the soil acidity isn’t right.

Clay's porosity can also cause issues for this plant’s shallow root system that quickly dries out in a terracotta pot, causing azalea flowers to fade quickly, shortening the bloom time of this beautiful shrub.

5. Blueberries

(Image credit: Esin Deniz / Getty Images)

Try and grow a blueberry bush in a terracotta pot and you’ll quickly run into trouble. Not only do these acid-loving plants abhor the alkaline conditions that a clay container nurtures, but they adore consistent moisture. And as if that wasn’t enough of an issue… because you’ll find yourself watering your blueberry plant more because of the quick-drying soil, the typically alkaline tap water will raise that soil pH some more. At the very least, the plant will produce little fruit, but death is also a very possible scenario.

6. Parsley

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Parsley is a Mediterranean herb so loves life in a terracotta pot, right? Wrong! This flavorful herb may hail from warm climes but it needs consistently damp soil and prefers to have cool roots, quite the opposite of what a clay container provides. And a parsley plant that regularly dries out because soil moisture is being wicked away by its pot’s terracotta walls will have tougher, yellowing stems with a distinctly bitter-tasting edge. Yes, that’s the reason why! This is one of the commonest problems with terracotta pots, as most herbs do well in a clay container – but parsley isn't one of them.

7. Cardinal Flowers

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A big patio planter of cardinal flowers that let's you watch pollinators while you sip a well-earned glass of something cold is a joy – but not if that pot is made of clay. Lobelia cardinalis naturally lives in bogs and on streambeds, so it requires consistently damp soil to thrive. A terracotta pot provides the opposite, and in this harsh environment those dramatic flower spikes will be stunted and buds may turn brown and drop before opening.

8. Canna Lilies

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

In most zones, it’s usual to grow these tender tropical beauties in pots so they’re easily moved into a garage or greenhouse for the winter. And few plants can bring such dramatic blooms and foliage in a container as a canna lily. However, that pot should never be a terracotta one.

Canna lilies use huge quantities of water in peak summer, evaporating moisture from their enormous leaves to keep cool and avoid scorching as well as harnessing heaps of H20 to facilitate their incredibly fast growth. These bold plants also rely on water pressure to keep their stems upright. In an unglazed terracotta pot where moisture is continually lost through the walls, these vital tasks are simply not possible. So if you’ve been wondering why your canna lilies keep wilting, now you know.

What Pots to Use Instead of Terracotta

If you love the look of terracotta – and who doesn’t adore this timeless classic – you have plenty of options to retain the style but keep your plants far healthier and happier. Simply slotting a plastic planter inside the terracotta pot works well, but do choose those meant for professional use such as these nursery pots from Amazon, both for their durability and extra drainage holes, .

There are lots of terracotta-look materials used to make planters, too. These all mimic the appearance of terracotta but are far less porous so lock moisture into the soil.

Resin

Grosfillex Expert 20" Terrain Resin Planter

Resin is typically formed from a synthetic polymer such as polyethylene which comes in powdered form, so it’s easy to mix in color pigments to do a pretty good job of mimicking the real thing. Look for a resin planter which has a UV stabilizer in the mix so its lovely clay tones don’t fade in the sun. Resin walls are fully non-porous so these containers are a good choice for plants that like permanently damp soil, but do drill a few extra drainage holes in the base.

Plastic

Bloem Terra Plastic 16" Planter

If you’re on a budget, plastic planters in a terracotta tone are a great option. A rolled lip adds considerable strength to the design and, along with the tapering sides, helps it to pass for the real thing. Take a scouring pad to the plastic to lightly scuff a few areas that would naturally show signs of wear for a more aged terracotta look. Plastic isn’t at all breathable so while plants that like consistent moisture will thrive, rotting roots is a problem for those that need good drainage.

Magnesium Oxide

Greens Word 16.5" Magnesium Oxide Urn Planter

Magnesium oxide is a specialized type of concrete composite that’s easily mixed with other components to mimic natural materials such as terracotta and is very durable. This material is slightly porous so it gives roots a healthier environment than plastic while still locking in lots of moisture. For plants like hydrangeas which need good drainage alongside plenty of water, and acid-loving plants that dislike the alkalinity of terracotta, magnesium oxide are the best option. You’ll also find these listed as MgO and MGO cement or concrete planters.

What's Your USDA Zone?I'm using terracotta pots in a hot, dry USDA zone.

If you garden in southern and western zones 8-11, it’s not just terracotta’s rapid evaporation that can be an issue, but that clay retains heat. In peak summer, this can lead to soil heating that scorches roots.

I'm using terracotta pots in a cold, wet USDA zone.

If you live in northern zones 3-6, it’s good to know that porous terracotta absorbs water, which expands when frozen and can cause pots to crack or shatter. Ensure you use high-fired, frost-proof terracotta.

If you've always wondered why a patio plant isn't flourishing, or what's best to plant in a terracotta pot, now you know. Repot plants into a more suitable home and you can look forward to abundant flowers and lush foliage for years to come.

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

I like to think of pruning plants as giving them cute haircuts, but this garden task is so much more than a cosmetic adjustment. Pruning is an essential step to keep landscape plants healthy and vital – and timing is a key element. Trimming plants and trees at the wrong time can be far worse than not pruning at all.

The complication here is that there is no one good time for pruning all the plants in your garden. Different plants have different schedules. There are some plants to prune in October, but there are other plants that should definitely not be pruned this month. Knowing which ones are which will help you get your October fall pruning chores accomplished properly.

So what plants should you never prune in October? Here are the landscape favorites to leave alone this month or else you risk ruing your winter display and next year's blooms.

Never Prune These Plants in October

Any time a shrub has a broken or diseased branch it's good to cut back that dead or damaged wood. But otherwise, keep your hand pruners far from these landscape plants in October. This is not a good time for regular pruning of these species.

1. Lilac

(Image credit: Shedu / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Syringa vulgaris

Hardiness

Zones 3-7

With their gorgeous, heavily fragranced blossoms, lilacs seem like they might need trips to the plant spa every few weeks. But no, they are among the most carefree of flowering shrubs. Planted in a sunny area in well-draining soil, they will delight you with lavender, pink, or white blossoms from spring to summer.

Do not even consider giving these garden favorites a haircut in October. Lilacs set buds for the next year’s flowers right after they finish blooming in early summer. The moment to do structural pruning of lilacs is immediately after they finish flowering, usually around June. Every snip in October removes one or more of these new buds, meaning fewer flowers in spring.

But that’s not all. Keep in mind that pruning encourages new growth. New growth that appears in late fall will still be tender when the first freeze arrives, leading to winter dieback. Fresh pruning cuts on wet autumn days lead to risks of fungal infections and rot.

2. Forsythia

(Image credit: Hrabar / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Forsythia spp.

Hardiness

Zones 5-8

Yes, red-breasted robins are harbingers of spring, but they are not alone in this role. One sure sign that spring has sprung is the appearance of brilliant yellow forsythia blossoms, which are often the first flowers to appear. Like most spring flowers, forsythia shrubs bloom on old wood, forming buds for the following year’s blossoms just after the current flowers have faded.

While forsythias profit from annual pruning, this should happen immediately after flowering. Pruning forsythias then makes the shrubs healthier and more vigorous. However, pruning these garden workhorses in October (or any time from midsummer to winter) will drastically reduce their blossoms the next spring. In addition, tender new growth may freeze, stressing the shrub.

3. Pink Muhly Grass

(Image credit: inho Lee / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Muhlenbergia capillaris

Hardiness

Zones 6-10

There are many appealing ornamental grasses out there in commerce and pink muhly grass is among the most popular for landscaping. It catches the eye with its unreal autumn display. Come September, this graceful grass lights up the landscape with massive, cloud-like airy pink seed heads.

Stunning and low-maintenance, pink muhly grass prefers a site with partial sun and dry, well-drained soil. It resists pests, deer, and drought. Pruning in October is really out of the question, since this is when its standing foliage and plumes provide the most spectacular show.

The texture, color, and movement last right into the cold months, offering food and cover for wildlife. The grass’s top growth also protects the crown of the grass from cold temperatures and blocks moisture from pooling.

4. Azalea

(Image credit: krblokhin / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Rhododendron spp.

Hardiness

Zones 3-9 (depending on variety)

Azaleas are immensely popular flowering shrubs that produce brilliant clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers in spring. The lush blossom display on these mounding shrubs seems to float into the garden like a cloud. While some azaleas don’t need any pruning, other azalea varieties require trimming to improve airflow.

If your azaleas need pruning, hop to it right after the spring blooms fade. By October, the buds have set and pruning will simply be cutting off next spring’s blossoms before they have a chance to appear. Fall pruning also boosts tender new growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the first frost.

5. 'Emerald Green' Arborvitae

(Image credit: Mykola Sosiukin / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Thuja occidentalis 'Smaragd'

Hardiness

Zones 3-7

When homeowners think about putting in a privacy hedge, arborvitae is one landscape shrub that comes to mind. 'Emerald Green' arborvitae is one of the most popular. It's a classic evergreen with a naturally narrow shape. That means it works well for lining a property edge or creating a backdrop for flowering shrubs. The attractive green foliage stays dense and attractive all year round.

This easy care shrub doesn’t need much pruning. But if you want to tidy up your arborvitae, do so in late spring or early summer. This is the time to touch up the shape and keep it looking tidy.

Pruning in fall leaves wounds making the plant susceptible to fungal diseases during the wet season. It also stimulates growth at the wrong time. The soft new growth does not have time to toughen up before winter freezes. Not only can these stems be damaged by ice, causing bare spots, but they can snap easily under heavy winter snow or ice loads.

Pruning Essentials

For the plants that do need pruning in fall, make sure you're well-equipped with the essentials before making the cut.

Workpro 7.2v Cordless Grass Shear & Shrubbery Trimmer

This handy handheld hedge trimmer makes cleaning up and shaping small shrubs so easy.

Felco F2 Pruning Shears

These cult-favorite pruners are definitely a splurge, but the holiday season is just around the corner. Add them to your wishlist now!

Fiskars 28” Garden Bypass Loppers

Content Editor Laura loves these affordable loppers for pruning larger shrubs and smaller tree branches.

The English country garden aesthetic is having a major moment right now, and if you’ve seen photos of George and Amal Clooney’s Mill House garden in Oxfordshire, then you’ll see why. Sandstone stairs softened by euphorbia delicately spilling over railings, climbing vines covering old stone walls, and pastel-colored flowers tucked into borders, giving the impression that they’ve been there for hundreds of years.

Photographed for Vogue by Annie Leibovitz, the couple's garden strikes a perfect balance between thoughtful design and natural beauty. It’s the kind of space that invites wandering and daydreaming. But much like a classic Parisian outfit that appears thrown together, it is actually the result of careful planning and a discerning eye.

While it may seem out of your price range and not achievable unless you have a sprawling estate like the Clooneys, there are ways you can get the English cottage look in your own garden. If George and Amal's greenhouse has already inspired you, the garden itself is obviously the next step.

The Difference Between Country Charm and Just Overgrown

(Image credit: Getty Images)

So, what is the difference between overgrown and neglected and a charming country aesthetic? This question is at the heart of the look, and the answer is actually quite simple. Marta Pawlik, Co-Founder and Director of luxury property management company Laik, frames it beautifully: "Style a country garden in exactly the same way you'd style a living room, except stop a step sooner."

She applies a principle of contrast, telling me, "The key to achieving country charm instead of a run-down look is purpose. We always compare a relaxed element against a neater element. A rumpled throw on a well-made bed.”

A post shared by Amal Alamuddin Clooney (@amalclooneyofficial1)

A photo posted by

She continues, “In garden terms, this is what Landscape Architecture professor Joan Nassauer called ‘cues to care’ – intentional signs of maintenance that give the eye permission to relax everything else. In the Clooneys' garden, it's the sandstone walls doing that work. The structure is impeccable; the planting gets to be loose and romantic within it.”

Crystal Olenbush, luxury realtor and interior design expert at AustinRealEstate.com, makes the same point from a design perspective, saying, "In an English country garden, despite some relaxed-looking planting, people can clearly understand its layout and the way to walk through the garden, find a place to sit down, or enjoy the views framed by the planting from the windows of your house."

Start With Structure, Then Back Off

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The most common mistake when attempting this style is starting with the plants rather than the bones. Pawlik's advice is to begin where an interior designer would: "Start with some shrubs for structure – a couple of well-trimmed yews or hollies, the blight-proof alternatives to box hedging. The structure is like starting with the rug and the sofa in the living room. It gives some shape to what's going to be your focus. Then back off and let things self-seed, foxgloves spill over paths, everything."

Her other tip, which is one that changes how most people approach garden planning entirely, is this: "Plan your garden by standing in your kitchen window, not outside. You'll be looking at your garden through a window far more often than you'll be out in it."

Olenbush adds that the planting itself should soften the architecture without trying to hide it, saying, "Let the climbers cover the wall, perennials flow slightly over the border, and grasses grow through the stone steps, but leave the bones of the garden visible. If there are no visible paths, seats, or facades of the house, the garden has left the country style."

Copy Amal and George’s Rustic Pot Look

Yatddes Aged Terracotta Planter Pot With Drainage Hole

Bungalow Rose Hooge Textured Stoneware Jug Planter

My Texas House Wave Terracotta-Style Ceramic Planter

Adapting the Look for Warmer Climates

(Image credit: Satura86 / Getty Images)

For US gardeners in warmer or drier zones, Olenbush recommends recreating the visual language rather than copying specific plants. "Look for local species that offer similar soft colors, flowering periods, and forms. Drought-tolerant flowering perennials, native shrubs, and suitable vines can create the same layered effect."

For climbers specifically, she suggests star jasmine, coral honeysuckle, or crossvine as alternatives to the clematis and roses that are all over English gardens. For the looser middle layer, lavender, salvia, catmint, and rosemary all give off the soft, billowing quality of a classic English border but don’t require the dampness that is such a classic of an Oxfordshire summer.

Shop Romantic Vines

Florida Foliage Star Jasmine - 3 Live Plants

American Beauties Native Plants Virginia Creeper

Sweet Autumn Clematis

At the end of the day, the Clooneys’ garden is the exact argument you need for restraint. Strong bones with a lot of repetition and the confidence to let some things be just a little undone and not too perfect. This combination can work in a 17th-century Oxfordshire mansion, but it works just as well in a backyard on the other side of the Atlantic.

Artificial intelligence is speeding up the design process, helping clients visualize spaces and giving professionals more ways to experiment. But it needs to work in tandem with human judgment, experience and an understanding of what can actually be built.

Julia Yudova, general manager at Cosentino Vancouver, says AI is compressing the design process and making experimentation easier.

“AI is making design more iterative and much faster. At Cosentino, what might have taken four or five iterations can sometimes happen in one. The opportunity is to explore more possibilities, the challenge is making sure efficiency never comes at the expense of originality. AI should expand creativity, not standardize it,” she says.

That distinction — between generating possibilities and making good design decisions — runs through the industry’s adoption of AI.

Yudova says designers are increasingly treating the technology as another tool in the creative process rather than something that replaces them.

“We’re seeing AI become more of a creative partner than a replacement. It can challenge an initial idea with new directions and combinations, but designers still bring the judgment, understanding the client, the space, the material and what will actually work.”

Reisa Pollard of Beyond Beige sees the same shift. She says AI is already accelerating concept development, letting designers explore ideas and present several directions before committing substantial time to detailed drawings or sourcing.

It is also changing the client relationship. People who have difficulty visualizing a finished room can respond to images much earlier, she says.

Pollard says the apparent realism of AI-generated work can be misleading.

“AI can create something that looks convincing without necessarily being accurate, buildable or appropriate for the client. A beautiful image is not the same thing as a well-designed space. It may ignore building codes, budgets, material limitations and the realities of construction,” she says.

AI learns from what already exists, so if it’s used without a strong point of view and direction, it produces attractive but generic rooms. The designer’s taste, experience and ability to understand the person behind the project become even more important, says Pollard.

Prefabrication versus AI

“They’re different, but complementary. Prefabrication brings precision to how something is made. AI brings intelligence and speed to how we design and decide what to make. The real opportunity is connecting those two worlds,” says Yudova.

Neither approach has to result in cookie-cutter design, says Pollard. Prefabricated components can still be used in highly customized architecture, while AI can support a deeply personal interior.

“The determining factor is the creativity and judgment of the person using the tool,” she says.

Less admin, more designing

The technology is also moving beyond image generation.

At Cosentino, Yudova says AI is being used to accelerate materials research and reduce repetitive work in sales and customer service.

“AI isn’t just changing what we design, it’s changing how we work. The biggest impact may be freeing people to spend more time on creativity, research and higher-value decisions,” she says.

Beyond Beige is finding similar uses behind the scenes. AI can help organize information, summarize discussions, develop preliminary written content, improve internal systems and provide a starting point for research or brainstorming, says Pollard.

But she stresses that the technology remains an assistant, not an authority. Its output needs review and fact-checking, and firms also need to consider privacy before entering client or project information into an AI platform.

The speed of technology is creating a new challenge, says Pollard. And it’s to do with expectations. Clients may come to expect unlimited options and instant revisions simply because AI can generate them.

“The challenge for designers will be to use that speed to create clarity rather than simply creating more noise.”

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Dear Tony:

We have a service agreement that we are attempting to terminate and have discovered an exclusive clause that requires 90 days notice before anniversary of the contract. Clearly no one on our strata council or manager read the contract in detail and now we are faced with another four years of a contract that renews automatically every five years unless we terminate within the terms.

Strata corporations are extremely vulnerable to these practices because we are volunteers, our managers generally do not have the experience to review these contracts and in our situation, no one wanted to approve the funds for our lawyer to review the contract prior to signing. Now we’re stuck with a company that is providing lousy service and insists on the balance of the contract running out. That is still four years and by then a new council will be in place, maybe new management and likely the next renewal will occur.

How do we get out of this?

— Gabe M., Vancouver

Dear Gabe:

Strata corporations enter a variety of complicated service agreements with many conditions that favour the service providers and not the clients. Automatic renewals/evergreen contracts, guaranteed price adjustments, restrictive termination clauses and detailed service conditions that may include or exclude many costs.

Elevators, fire safety inspections, heating ventilation mechanical, waste management, insurance, management agreements, warranties, communications and security systems, are all common examples. The success of a healthy business relationship is a clear understanding of the services, costs, liabilities and terms and conditions of renewals and cancellations before you engage.

At this time your strata corporation needs legal advice on the contract. By the way, this will likely cost more than a sound contract review before you signed.

You may have an argument for breach of contract which could be a negotiating factor to terminate. However, this requires supervision and documentation of failure to meet the contract conditions.

Has there been a breach of the contract? If there is a breach, is there a breach provision where you must notify the service provider and entitle them to remedy the breach?

Contract administration is time consuming but it is made easier with organization and advance review by an experienced professional. As the consumer you are entitled to full disclosure and clarity.

As part of the contract proposal request a summary page that lists all costs, escalating or inflation costs, conditions for renewal or termination, any exemptions or exclusions, and dispute conditions. It provides a quick reference for council making decisions and giving directions to their managers. It is also essential that council members have access to all the service agreements and contracts. Organize your documents.

If someone has an opportunity to look at renewal/cancellation dates, terms and conditions and add this to your council meetings and minutes, everyone is well informed. It’s never too late to organize your strata corporation’s records.

Tony Gioventu is executive director of the Condominium Home Owners Association. Email tony@choa.bc.ca.

Related

• Condo Smarts: What strata tenants need to know about their rights and responsibilities
• Condo Smarts: Strata corp. should commission depreciation report ASAP

Spring-flowering bulbs to plant in October are your secret weapon if you want a gorgeous garden but don’t fancy spending every spare moment fussing over it. Run-of-the-mill tulips and daffodils are spring favorites for good reason, but there are more exciting varieties with standout flowers, intriguing shapes and plenty of personality. Tuck them into borders, containers or lawns in fall, then let nature do much of the heavy lifting.

Ever-more fabulous new varieties of spring-flowering bulbs are being bred and, though they boast showier flowers, there’s nothing difficult about growing them. The trick is to choose the right bulb for the right spot and give them conditions they naturally enjoy – which is usually as simple as good drainage and plentiful sunshine – and they'll quietly return each spring with very little intervention.

Fall is the perfect time to get planting bulbs, giving them time to settle in and establish roots before winter arrives. So, ditch the boring varieties and decide which of these far less basic beauties deserve a place in your garden. From charming gems to head-turning statement flowers, I’ve rounded up unusual spring-flowering bulbs that brim with character but couldn’t be easier to grow. All you need do is equip yourself with a bulb planter such as the Berry&Bird Planter, available via Amazon – or a long-handled planter such as the Colwelt Planter Tool, stocked by Walmart, if you're planting lots – then look forward to an enviable but effortless spring show.

1. Personality-Packed Parrot Tulips

10 Amazing Parrot Bulbs

Living up to its name, these riotous petals will stop neighbors in their tracks.

10 Black Parrot Bulbs

These velvety, deeply fringed flowers bring such a sophisticated vibe.

10 Flamingo Queen Bulbs

If you love to share your outdoor space on socials, these will steal the limelight.

While many varieties provide knockout color, parrots are among the best tulips to turn up the volume of a spring garden. The huge flowers offer a flamboyant upgrade with dramatically cut, twisted and feathered petals, often splashed with contrasting streaks or flashes of color.

Flowering later than many tulips around May, parrot tulips are particularly useful for extending the spring show and bridging the gap between the first bulbs and early summer blooms. Plant in generous groups so their fabulous flowers pack a color punch, and don't be shy with numbers. Don’t be afraid to lean into your favorite look, either, as parrot tulips are all about personality. Pop them close to paths, patios and seating areas where you and your garden guests can enjoy an up-close look at these wonderfully weird petals.

Parrot tulips can be less reliable repeat performers than some others, particularly in climates with hot, humid summers, so it's vital to grow parrot tulips in full sun and sharply drained soil, preferably sheltered from strong winds.

Zones 3-8 / Full sun / Flowers mid to late spring / Grows 18-24" high and 4-6" wide.

2. Opulent Double Anemones

10 Fullstar Red/White Bulbs

'Fullstar Red/White' shines in a container with vivid tones and contrasting centers.

10 Fullstar Blue Bulbs

For pure impact, 'Fullstar Blue' is hard to beat with intensely rich blue petals.

20 Double Mixed Bulbs

Can't decide? Plant a mixed collection for a colorful burst of spring petals.

Layer upon layer of petals gives double-flowered anemones an irresistibly full, almost peony-like appearance, so they make a big impact in a small space. Newer Fullstar anemones take the extravagance a step further, producing densely packed, ruffled blooms that can reach around 4 inches across. And though the blooms are bigger, the plants themselves stay compact so are easy to tuck into containers, rock gardens or border fronts.

Often sold as bulbs, anemones actually grow from small, woody corms but are planted in just the same way. For a fall planting, simply rehydrate the dry corms first by soaking in tepid water for up to 24 hours. These Mediterranean-origin anemones are particularly sensitive to wet conditions while dormant so choose a sunny, sheltered spot with fertile, very well-drained soil.

Zones 7-10 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers spring to early summer / Grows 12-18” high and 6-9” wide.

3. Aliens-Have-Landed Alliums

25 Allium Hair Bulbs

A real oddball and a wonderfully wild and weird tangle of wiry green tendrils.

3 Allium Schubertii Bulbs

These starburst blooms can reach a foot across and dry well for border structure.

25 Allium Art Bulbs

Intricate clusters and unusual fused stems bring a contemporary vibe.

If your summer border is hot, dry and sunny, ornamental alliums are among the best bulbs to plant in fall. We're all familiar with the classic purple pom-pom varieties that bob above the border but look a little closer and you'll find alliums with much stranger, more sculptural personalities. Some produce starbursts, spidery clusters or wonderfully wiry flowerheads, turning neighbors’ heads while still attracting pollinators. When flowers fade, the dried seedheads stick around, adding structure long after the main display is over.

It’s super-simple to grow alliums that return year after year, as long as you give them the right conditions. Plant the bulbs in early to mid-fall in free-draining soil and water to settle them in, but then ignore them unless the weather is unusually dry – because damp ground is the main reason these bulbs fail. And don't panic if the strap-like leaves start to yellow just as the flower stalks appear – allium leaves often die back around flowering time, which is why many gardeners plant them among grasses and leafy perennials that hide the fading foliage.

Zones 4-9 / Full sun / Flowers late spring to early summer / Grows 1-5' high and 4-12" wide.

4. Perfectly Peachy Daffodils

10 Apple Pie Bulbs

White petals set off the apricot crown a treat, making this variety a real beauty.

25 Mini Prosecco Bulbs

A neat little number for a border front or patio pot where full-size daffs don't fit.

10 Apricot Whirl Bulbs

A real showstopper with frilled cups on flowers that can reach 4 inches across.

Appealing peachy daffs are comfortingly familiar without the brashness of their bright yellow cohorts. Their cups glow in shades of peach, apricot, salmon or coral, while the outer petals stay cream, white or greenish white. The effect is prettier and far more sophisticated, making these the best daffodils to add to a modern planting palette. Plant them in repeating groups through a border for a relaxed, natural look or pair with blush-toned tulips, flowering fruit trees and other pastel spring blooms.

Get daffodil bulbs into the ground before it freezes and then leave them alone – good news if you’re seeking genuine faff-free color as daffodils reliably return year and year, often forming larger clumps over time.

Zones 4-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers late winter to late spring / Grows 8-30" high and 6-12" wide.

5. Smoky-Hued Dutch Iris

25 Autumn Princess Bulbs

This variety has a super-smoky combination of bronze and ochre tones.

25 Red Ember Bulbs

The rich colors of 'Red Ember' practically glow when lit by the evening sun.

25 Lion King Bulbs

You can see how this blazing golden-bronze beauty earned its name!

With tall, elegant flowers in electric blue, yellow and white, classic Dutch iris (Iris × hollandica) has long earned its place in our yards. But if your taste runs a little moodier, check out the less obvious cultivars in plum, brown, bronze, copper and wine shades. Their smoky coloring brings a sophisticated twist to the familiar iris silhouette and works particularly well in a more restrained, contemporary planting scheme.

Each bulb sends up a strong stem with an architectural bloom, and that upright, narrow habit makes Dutch iris especially useful for an already-full border that needs vertical punctuation. They are also excellent cut flowers, if you like bringing armfuls of the garden indoors.

Plant bulbs in early fall and water to settle the soil, then keep moisture fairly even while they're establishing. This iris typically benefits from a period of cool winter temperatures so in zones 8–9, check the supplier's instructions for the cultivar and local growing conditions; some bulbs can be planted directly in fall, while others may perform more reliably with appropriate chilling.

Zones 6-9 / Full sun / Flowers late spring to early summer / Grows 2-3' high and 6-12" wide.

6. Ombre Grape Hyacinths

10 Ocean Magic Bulbs

A fresh spring palette and the safest bet in a bed with some shade.

25 Grape Ice Bulbs

Flowers fade from a rich purple base through pale lilac to white tips.

25 Delft Blue Mix Bulbs

A collection of mixed varieties highlights the varied tones a treat.

Dinky grape hyacinths (Muscari) can be tucked around the bases of shrubs, in lawns or beneath taller daffodils and tulips, and squeeze into even the most crowded border. They’re one of the easiest spring flowering bulbs to grow, and newer multi-toned varieties bring lots more pizzazz than the usual solid-blue forms. Their appeal doesn’t stop at aesthetics either, as many of these rodent- and deer-resistant bulbs are sweetly fragrant and naturalize, gradually creating bigger clumps over time. They can occasionally be a little too enthusiastic, so plant in a spot where you won't mind some floral unruliness.

Plant grape hyacinths in fall before the ground freezes in well-drained soil, and forget scattering a handful here and there because this little stunner looks best among plenty of its own company.

Zones 4-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers early to mid-spring / Grows 6-9" high and 2-6" wide.

7. Flamboyant Crown Imperial Fritillaries

3 Rubra Maxima Bulbs

'Rubra Maxima' boasts burnt orange to flame red tones on 3-feet-high stems.

1 Lutea Maxima Bulb

'Lutea Maxima' brings a bright burst of color and wonderfully glossy leaves.

1 Aurora Bulb

Classic 'Aurora' is a reliable return flowerer and is known to naturalize well.

Fritillaries are worth growing because they look like nothing else in the spring garden, and certainly aren’t shrinking violets! Crown imperial fritillary is the showstopper of all fritillaria with a whorl of pendant bells nodding beneath a tufted crown of leaves atop a sturdy stem. This architectural beauty looks almost too exotic to be hardy, but it returns year after year to wow neighbors and friends.

Despite the high-drama appearance, Fritillaria imperialis is surprisingly straightforward to grow. Just give bulbs well-drained soil as they’re prone to rotting in wet conditions. A clever tip for fall planting is to lay the bulbs on their sides to help prevent water from collecting in the little hollow on the top.

For maximum impact, use crown imperials as punctuation marks through a sunny spring border, giving them room to strut their stuff. A quirky bonus is their distinctive musky, slightly skunky scent, said to help keep rodents out of garden beds. It's not everyone's favorite fragrance, though, so best not to plant these showstoppers beside a seating area.

Zones 5-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers mid to late spring / Grows 3-4’ high and 12-18” wide.

8. Ravishing Warm-Zone Ranunculus

10 Reinette Orange Bulbs

Delivering a fiery shot of vibrant color, this will warm up a spring border a treat.

20 Champagne Mix Bulbs

Skip straight to stunning with this mixed variety pack in standout peachy shades.

10 Reinette Cream Bulbs

Achieve an elegant, sophisticated look with these pale petals and green center.

For maximum flower power, ranunculus is hard to beat – especially when you consider that such lavish blooms emerge from a surprisingly small corm. Add these little energy stores to your list of what to plant in October, though, and you'll be rewarded with a spectacular succession of rose- or peony-like blooms that look as though they belong to a far more demanding plant.

The Reinette ranunculus types take the showiness up another notch, producing huge, densely layered double blooms with distinctive green centers. They’re also stars of the cutting garden with long-lasting flowers that look just as fabulous in a vase as they do in the border.

Plant the corms in fall or early winter when temperatures have started to cool but the soil isn't cold and saturated. Soak dry corms in room-temperature water for a few hours first to rehydrate them, then plant in a sunny spot and keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged. Ranunculus dislike sitting in cold, soggy ground, so plant in containers if you have heavy soil.

Zones 8-10 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers late spring to summer / Grows 12-18" high and 4-6" wide.

9. Big-Bloomed Crocus

25 Joan of Arc Bulbs

This all-white crocus produces unusually large, snow-white flowers.

25 Pickwick Bulbs

The showiest choice with boldly striped petals and a flash of golden yellow.

25 Blue Marlin Bulbs

Lavender-blue watercolor hues brush the silvery white petals of 'Blue Marlin'.

Crocus earns its place in every garden because it asks so little of you. While the small-flowered types are charming, bolder big-bloomed crocuses make more of an early-season statement. Emerging in late winter when there aren’t many garden goings-on, they're guaranteed attention-grabbers but remain petite enough to be tucked beneath deciduous shrubs, through lawns or along a border front. Crocus naturalize, too, so groups can become more impressive over time.

Growing crocus is wonderfully straightforward. Plant the corms in fall in well-drained soil before it freezes and water to settle the soil. Then let nature do the rest, as hardy spring-flowering crocuses need a period of cold to flower well. Plant in generous drifts and you'll have one of spring's loveliest little curtain-raisers, as flowers often closes their petals when the clouds roll in for even more garden charm.

Zones 3-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers late winter to early spring / Grows 2-6" high and 3-6" wide

Top Tips for Successful Fall Bulb Planting

• Most spring-flowering bulbs prefer a sunny or lightly shaded position with good air circulation but do check conditions for individual varieties.
• Prioritize good drainage by mixing a handful of coarse sand, fine gravel or vermiculite such as Plantonix Vermiculite Bliss from Walmart and multi-purpose compost into the soil before planting. Soggy soil is the quickest way to lose bulbs and corms, so take time to improve soil drainage for long-term success.
• As a general rule, plant bulbs at 2-3 times their own height, measuring from the base of the bulb. Always follow the instructions for the specific variety, particularly with corms and smaller bulbs.
• Plant bulbs with the growing tip pointing upwards. If you're unsure which way is up, planting bulbs on their side will allow new growth to find its way to the surface.
• Water newly-planted bulbs thoroughly to settle the soil but then allow autumn and winter rainfall to provide moisture, watering only if needed.
• If you’re gardening in a warmer part of the US, check the chilling requirements as pre-chilled bulbs or refrigerated storage before planting may be recommended by the supplier.
• You can grow bulbs and corms not suited to your USDA zone in containers as long as you overwinter pots indoors, or you can lift and store just as you would a dahlia tuber.

(Image credit: Nicola Stockden/Future Publishing Ltd)

For the price of a nice home in West Vancouver, you could own an apartment on what is widely regarded as the largest private residential ship on the planet.

Twelve decks high and stretching 644 feet, The World Residences at Sea operates like a floating luxury apartment building, where the residents collectively vote on where the ocean-going vessel will travel throughout the year.

Some 300 residents own The World’s 165 homes, with more than half from the United States, and many from Europe, Australia, Japan and Canada. At any given time, between 150 to 200 residents and their guests are onboard. A handful live there all year, while most come and go depending on the itinerary. Community members include families with children, though the majority are retirees. The average ownership period tends to run seven to eight years.

Outside of dry dock for upkeep, The World has been continuously circumnavigating the globe since 2002. It kicked off 2026 in Tasmania, Australia and New Zealand, followed by a semi-circumnavigation of Antarctica, then the South Pacific and French Polynesia, before heading to the Pacific Northwest and onward to Asia.

Homes range from compact 330-square-foot studios to two- and three-bedroom apartments upwards of 3,000 square feet. Owners can renovate — flooring, bathrooms, fixtures — during scheduled maintenance windows that occur two or three times a year. Structural changes are permitted only when the ship is in dry dock, which happens every three years.

Residences are owned outright, priced from US$3.5 to $15 million, with annual maintenance fees around 10 per cent of the purchase price. Prospective buyers are typically hosted by a homeowner to determine whether the lifestyle suits them, and residents often sublet other residents’ suites to host friends and family.

That instinct to host runs through much of life on The World. San Francisco-based design firm Studio Ahead took on a brief for Nora Lacey, a biotech entrepreneur who ultimately found her land-based holiday retreat in Lake Tahoe less than inspiring. Lacey was drawn to The World’s combination of travel and a stable home base, embracing a much smaller footprint without sacrificing her love for hosting family.

“Even though she downsized, her priorities didn’t change,” says Studio Ahead principal Homan Rajai. “She still wanted to host her sister, her mom, her kids, her grandkids — while keeping her own space too.”

Lacey came to the project already familiar with the studio’s work, having admired the design firm’s rounded, sheepskin-upholstered furniture for years.

What began as a request to furnish a few rooms grew, within weeks of installation, into a full renovation of the roughly 1,400-square-foot residence. Getting there meant Rajai and project designer Seth Huxe spent nearly a year co-ordinating a build that stretched from Montreal to Boston to a fabrication house in Vienna to final installation in a Spanish shipyard, all timed to a dry-dock window that opens once every three years.

The studio’s approach was less “yacht interior” than a small, deeply considered home. The kitchen counter and cabinetry were hand-formed from raw, undyed fibreglass, a material borrowed from Italian boatbuilding tradition. Shades of sea-green continue in a Moroccan tile backsplash. Cabinet interiors, invisible once closed, were finished in walnut.

Rounded forms carry through every room, a softening effect that doubles as a safety measure for a moving vessel. The custom sheepskin beds anchor the primary and guest rooms. Vanities, millwork and coffee table all pick up the same rounded language.

Every element carries hidden engineering such as locking mechanisms rated for rough seas, IMO-certified paint and materials, and storage niches grouted invisibly into tiled walls.

“It’s really sweet to have these small, beautiful, cared-about homes that are bringing delight,” says Rajai.

For more information about units available for purchase on The World, visit its website .

Kevin Bacon might be better known for his acting than his gardening, but that might all change thanks to the Footloose star's latest Instagram photo.

When it comes to growing our own food, many of us tend to eschew the not-so-humble apple tree in favor of raised beds and a vegetable garden. Kevin, however, has an enviable orchard's worth of fruit at his disposal, and the actor shared a picture of himself balanced atop a teetering ladder as he harvested it.

And, while I was initially distracted by the sheer abundance of apples hanging from those branches (it's enough to make you rush off and buy a Honeycrisp Apple Tree from Nature Hills of your very own, right?), it was the message accompanying the photo that really caught my attention.

Why Kevin Bacon's Apple Tree Is So Inspiring

“I love September,” read the caption beneath Kevin Bacon's carousel of photos, which also included shots of the apples in his wheelbarrow, and then bagged and ready to go in the trunk of his car.

"Always good to remember no matter where you live , you probably have neighbors who are hungry."

His advice was simple: support your local food banks.

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"Oh my goodness just when I think I couldn’t love you anymore!! what an amazing human being! The world needs more of that," read one comment beneath the picture.

"You’re good souls," added another amid the flurry of positive feedback from Kevin Bacon fans everywhere. "Nothing like fresh apples right in season, people will be grateful."

They're not wrong; the picture has served as a reminder of something I think we gardeners sometimes forget when we're busy admiring our tomatoes, filling baskets with courgettes or wondering what on earth we're going to do with yet another bowl of apples: a productive garden can give us much more than food for our own kitchens.

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Yes, growing your own food is often talked about as a wonderfully self-sufficient hobby, and it absolutely can be. But there's another side to growing that I find just as satisfying: having enough to share.

Fall is a brilliant time for this; fruit trees can be laden with apples and pears, blackberry bushes are still offering up handfuls of berries, and vegetable plots can suddenly produce considerably more food than one household can reasonably eat.

And fruit trees are an appealing addition to a garden because, unlike an annual vegetable that gives you one season of produce, they can become a long-term part of the garden, providing blossom in spring and fruit later in the year.

(Image credit: Patricia Hamilton / Getty Images)

Unlike an annual vegetable that gives you one season of produce, a healthy apple tree can become a long-term part of the garden, providing blossom in spring and fruit later in the year. There are varieties to suit different garden sizes, too, including more compact trees that make fruit growing possible without needing a huge backyard.

Mind you, it's important to remember that not every food bank can accept homegrown produce, and their rules vary considerably, so try contacting your local organization first to find out what they accept and how they would like donations handled. (And remember, there are plenty of other ways to share with neighbors, friends, community groups and local food-sharing schemes).

I don't think Kevin Bacon intended to deliver a profound lesson in horticulture when he posted his apple harvest. But, without really trying all that hard, he's reminded us that perhaps one of the nicest things you can grow is... well, a little more than you need.