Organic Gardening News

By August, many plants are exhausted by heat and lack of water and stop flowering – but not these tough-cookie late-season bloomers. They flower reliably all through August, September and into October, with barely any assistance from you. So don’t think you have to compromise on flower power because we’re having a hot, dry summer: you just need one of these late-season heroes in your garden.

Plants that keep flowering for months on end aren’t just appreciated by us humans, but by pollinators, too, many of whom will be fuelling up ahead of long migration journeys. Resilient plants like our superstar bloomers are particularly valuable, however. When a plant is stressed by heat or drought, one of its first responses is to limit water loss by reducing nectar production. So, by growing an array of tolerant plants that cope well with summer stressors, you not only provide flowers, but flowers that are still full to the brim of nectar.

Another factor to consider if you want plants that keep on flowering when everything else gives up is how palatable they are to deer and rabbits. As we approach the end of a long, hot summer, food becomes scarcer for herbivores so they may turn to garden plants they wouldn’t otherwise eat – and fresh flower buds are tender and packed full of nutrients. So, you’ll be happy to hear that neither deer nor rabbits like to snack on any of our plant picks.

Flower-into-Fall Blooms that Thrive on Neglect

All our late-season heroes are dependable perennials that will be back, year after year, and don’t require any fertilizing or feeding other than a spring mulch to flower well. Their highly tolerant, resilient nature means they’re suitable for a wide range of zones, so you have a great choice of plants to keep your garden packed with blooms.

1. Sneezeweed

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Hitting its stride in August, Helenium autumnale is such a reliable late-season bloomer in zones 4-9 and powers through September and into October to the first frost. And what a show! The fiery shades of red, orange and yellow revive any garden, turning up the color just as many perennials fizzle out. As the flowers age, their sculptural centers become more prominent and the petals flex backwards, too.

Helenium does need to be watered, however, and taller varieties can need staking – which is why the Salud series is so appealing. Cultivars in this series are particularly heat- and drought-tolerant and, only growing to 16 inches tall, don't need staking. These are some of the heaviest- and longest-blooming sneezeweeds, and are ignored by deer and rabbits. Salud Yellow is a saturated golden tone, while Salud Embers boasts a mix of red, orange and yellow. Sneezeweed Salud Yellow plants are available from Plant Addicts, and Salud Embers plants are available from Fast Growing Trees.

2. Woodland Sage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Salvia nemorosa blooms for months because not only does it readily produce new flushes of flowers when spent stems are removed, but the individual spires bloom sequentially from bottom to top over several weeks. So, while it starts flowering way back in May, if you snipped off the flower spikes, it’ll likely be blooming now and continue through September.

There are all sorts of salvia varieties to try, generally suitable for zones 4-9 and tolerating heat and drought once established. The Marvel series is particularly valued both for its larger flowers that keep their intense color and exceptionally long bloom-time from spring to frost. ‘Blue Marvel’ is available from Nature Hills, and ‘Rose Marvel’ is available from Plant Addicts. Growing to around a foot high and spreading up to 18 inches wide, these dependable, showy salvias are just as happy in a pot as the front of a border. While pollinators will flock to the nectar-rich flowers, deer and rabbits don't appreciate the aromatic foliage.

3. Russian Sage

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Russian sage is another Salvia no garden should be without. This trouble-free plant flowers summer into fall and provides a valuable nectar source when many other plants are fading. Long after your lavender spires have finished flowering, Salvia yangii will still be boasting beautiful blue blooms. While common Russian sage (available from Plant Addicts) tends to flop in late summer, those clever plant breeders have been busy creating more compact cultivars that bring even more flowers on immaculately-behaved stems.

‘Denim ‘n Lace’ is a Proven Winners cultivar available from Nature Hills that has a denser growth habit for lots more flowers, growing to 2-3 feet tall and wide in zones 4-9, with sky-blue flowers held in amethyst calyxes. ‘Blue Jean Baby’ by Plants that Work, also available from Nature Hills, brings similar benefits but with lavender-blue flowers that deepen to purple, and more finely-cut foliage. Both are simply sublime.

4. Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Being a succulent, Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy’ isn’t phased by drought and its dense bud clusters form slowly through summer, bursting open just as most other border perennials are starting to wind down. Sedum 'Autumn Joy' blooms change color, too, opening a pale pink before morphing into a rosier pink and finally turning a rich copper.

Happy in sun or partial shade in zones 4-9, this late-season bloomer will grow pretty much anywhere, and bigger pollinators appreciated the flat-topped flowers that act as welcoming 2-foot-high landing pads. Rabbits dislike the fleshy foliage and deer are unlikely to take more than a nibble of the bitter-tasting leaves. Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ plants are available from Fast Growing Trees.

5. New England Aster

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It’s not just us humans that can rely on the abundant summer-to-fall flowers of the New England aster, but migrating monarch butterflies, for whom this resilient plant provides vital fuel stops on their journey south. The vibrant daisy-like flowers begin to show their cheery faces in August and continue until the first hard frost.

While all New England asters are reliable late-season bloomers, ‘Grape Crush’ is a particularly good choice as it naturally grows into a self-supporting mound 2-3 feet high and wide – and some other varieties are guilty of flopping once stormy fall weather hits. The dark purple hue of the petals is intense, too, and looks all the more saturated against the flowers’ golden centres, delivering a good punch of color for months to come. Deer and rabbits dislike the dense foliage, too. Suitable for zones 3-8, Grape Crush New England Aster plants are available from Nature Hills.

6. Black-Eyed Susan

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Want flowers in August? Flowers in September? Flowers in October? Look no further than black-eyed Susan. While older varieties of rudbeckia are often troubled by leaf spot and powdery mildew which can cut short the flower show, some modern cultivars are virtually immune and will continue blooming for months.

If you want the classic black-eyed Susan look, then American Gold Rush, available from Garden Goods Direct, should be your go-to as it has been bred for incredible disease resistance, growing to a foot high and 1-2 feet wide in zones 3-8. ‘Little Goldstar’, available from Nature Hills and suitable for zones 4-9, is a shade taller at 16" high and boasts the heaviest bloom density of all black-eyed Susans, also flowering through August and September into October.

Both have stems and leaves covered in fuzzy hairs that save it from being nibbled when food is scarce, yet pollinators adore the nectar-rich flowers.

7. Japanese anemones

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It’s true, Japanese anemones can be as thuggish as they are beautiful in the garden and, though they’re not classed as invasive, do spread through underground rhizomes. In a large planter, though, they’re the most reliable bloomers and a real backyard asset.

As well as keeping these enthusiastic plants corralled in a container, you'll want to stop them self-seeding around your garden, which is easily done by choosing a modern hybrid cultivar that’s been bred to have sterile, unviable seeds. These have typically been bred to spread far more slowly, too, so you don’t have to worry about the plant escaping from its pot. Sterile variety Fall in Love Sweetly is available from Plant Addicts and grows to 2 feet high and wide in zones 4-8 with semi-double rose-pink blooms, creating a container packed with flowers for months on end.

If you'd rather grow Japanese anemones in a border, then choose a dwarf variety that won’t spread as quickly as its taller cousins, such as Fantasy Red Riding Hood, available from Nature Hills which grows 1-2 feet tall and wide in zones 5-9. Even slugs don’t tend to like chewing Japanese Anemone’s fibrous leaves, and deer and rabbits leave them well alone.

Have you ever heard of box tree moths? I hadn’t until my sister’s boxwood shrubs suddenly looked like they had been fried to a crisp. The box tree moth (Cydalima perspectalis) is an invasive species of insect that is spreading throughout the United States, Canada, and Europe and destroys boxwood shrubs.

An infestation can turn lush boxwood shrubs into twigs in a matter of weeks. Early detection and treatment is key to getting rid of boxwood moths and protecting your shrubs from future damage.

Simple cultural and biological controls like cutting back infested shrubs and applying a Bacillus thuringiensis var. Kurstaki spray, available on Amazon, can help stop the infestation. Keep reading to learn more about box tree moths and how to protect your boxwoods from this very hungry caterpillar.

What is a Box Tree Moth?Adult box tree mothimageBROKER/Wilfried Martin / Getty ImagesBox tree moth caterpillarsDamianKuzdak / Getty Images

Box tree moths (BTM) are a species of moth whose larvae (caterpillars) can strip a healthy boxwood shrub (Buxus spp.) of all its leaves and kill it in a few weeks. These garden pests are native to Asia but have spread quickly through Europe and have now made it to the United States and Canada. As of 2021, the USDA has confirmed box tree moths in Delaware, Kentucky, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and West Virginia.

Adult box tree moths generally have white wings with brown borders, but they are mostly active at night and hard to spot. The larvae of box tree moths are lime-green caterpillars with black stripes, white spots and a shiny black head. These shrub pests are about an inch in length and are the only type of pest that will fully defoliate boxwood shrubs.

Box tree moth damage starts with missing parts of leaves and progresses into “curlicue” damage to leaves where there is just the central vein of the leaf left which turns brown. Eventually, the shrub looks like a crispy, brown skeleton of itself. You might see webbing and small caterpillars amongst leaves and twigs and sawdust-like frass (excrement) on or around the infested shrubs.

Unfortunately, BTM can overwinter easily and survive temperatures as low as -22 degrees Fahrenheit (-30 C). It is important to spot the infestation and begin treatment as soon as possible to prevent them from overwintering and spreading further next spring when they wake up.

How Do You Get Rid of Boxwood Moths?

Now that you have determined you have a box tree moth infestation, it is time to get to work treating it. It is a good idea to contact your local extension office and report the infestation, too, as this is a newly arrived invasive species and tracking is important.

Cultural Controls

(Image credit: LoNa Arts / Getty Images)

Trimming boxwoods back as much as possible will remove damaged branches and the BTM caterpillars and pupae. It is very important that you place any affected plant material into two trash bags and dispose of it in the trash. Double-bagging will help prevent these boxwood shrub pests from escaping and damaging other shrubs.

Do not compost affected leaves and branches and don’t leave it in the street for the city to pick up. This will allow BTM caterpillars to spread.

Remove leaves, yard debris, and mulch from under the affected boxwood shrubs to reduce the places the caterpillars can overwinter.

Biological Controls

(Image credit: Klaus Bargheer / Getty Images)

Luckily, one of the best methods of treatment is easily found at your local garden center. Bacillus thuringiensis var. Kurstaki is a naturally occurring bacterium found in soil that targets leaf-chewing caterpillars like box tree moth larvae. Beneficial insects, humans, and pets are unaffected by it and you can even find it on Amazon. Simply spray it on the leaves of your infested boxwoods and the bacterium kills the larvae as soon as they ingest it.

If you have treated your boxwoods and they don’t bounce back next spring, it might be a good idea to swap out your shrubs for native shrubs that are similar but more resistant to pests and diseases like a ‘Soft Touch’ holly shrub or Tater Tot thuja shrub from Fast Growing Trees.

Frequently Asked QuestionsWill a box tree recover from moth damage?

Yes, if an infestation is caught and treated early, boxwoods can bounce back from box tree moth damage.

Why is the box tree moth a problem?

The box tree moth is an non-native insect that quickly and thoroughly destroys boxwood shrubs and is spreading across North America. Boxwoods are some of the most commonly planted ornamental shrubs in the U.S. and widescale destruction of them means gardeners are having to spend more money to replace them. Additionally, destruction of boxwoods at nurseries negatively affects the industry through lost sales and cost of pest control.

As if life isn’t hard enough, you open your mailbox to find a violation notice from your Homeowners Association (HOA). You scan it quickly and learn that the powers-that-be have determined that there are weeds in your lawn that violate your community's landscaping guidelines.

Can the HOA do this? The simple answer is: maybe, if they have spelled out the rule clearly and unambiguously in the Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&Rs). But there are many circumstances that can provide a strong defense.

I’ll walk you through some of the basics about how to landscape in an HOA and what the association can and can’t do about weeds in your yard. Plus, I’ll share tips to keep you out of trouble.

Understanding HOA Rules

A homeowners association is an organization in a planned community, condo, or subdivision that makes and enforces rules for properties. It’s often called an HOA. The HOA is responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of common areas and shared spaces in the community, and each unit pays a regular fee to cover these fees.

The HOA gets its authority from the written contract every owner of the association signs as they move into the community called the Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions. These are the rules and regulations that govern the group. The HOA does not enforce state law or federal law – it only has authority to enforce the CC&Rs.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)Can an HOA Fine You for Weeds?

One of the primary responsibilities of the HOA is to maintain the landscape of the community so that it is pleasing and uniform. To achieve that, CC&Rs often include provisions to maintain “attractive” yards or to prohibit “ugly” vegetation. In many cases, the rules prohibit weeds or noxious weeds.

These laws can be enforced to the extent the language is clear and explicit and the regulations are not selectively enforced. But state laws can impact the enforcement of CC&Rs, since many state laws require that an HOA member be sent a formal written warning as well as a chance to remedy the issue within a timeframe before a fine is charged. Hearings and appeals are generally part of the procedure as well before the fine is final.

(Image credit: Lightspring / Shutterstock)What Is a Weed?

The basic problem with this type of regulation is that the term “weed” has no specific definition or any botanical category. Generally, a weed is defined as any plant growing in a place where it is not wanted. That means that even high-value crops, flowers, or native species can be classified as weeds if they grow where humans do not want them.

I’ve seen this in my own neighborhood. In my area of San Francisco, the soil is basically sand. That’s because the area is within a mile of the Pacific Ocean. It started out as sand dunes and remained that way for the first few chapters in the history of San Francisco. As the population increased, houses were built on the dunes closer and closer to the ocean.

Our entire yard is sand and only a few flowering plants grow on it without adding lots of bags of soil. One such plant is the nasturtium. This tough, self-seeding, vining annual lit up the backyard with bright orange blossoms when we moved in.

Neighbors had the same experience, but many didn’t like the nasturtiums and labeled them as weeds. I cultivated them and consider them one of the best flowering plants in the garden even today. Another “weed” I cultivate is pokeweed. Plus, birds absolutely love their spikes of berries.

(Image credit: Grace Cary / Getty Images)How to Defend Your Weeds

If you are ready for a fight, then plant what you want and get ready to defend yourself against a landscape violation. Here are three strong defenses you can take to court.

1. Vagueness

Is it too vague if CC&Rs prohibit weeds? Generally, no. Courts tend to find that terms like "weeds" provide adequate notice to property owners because there is a general understanding of the meaning. However, subjective terms like “ugly” vegetation or “unsightly” plants may not be specific enough to be enforced.

2. Drought

When a state is suffering from drought, water conservation can be a legal defense to weed violations. When there are water restrictions in effect, homeowners in states like California and Arizona are permitted to allow native plants to grow, including those considered weeds and to allow lawns to go dormant.

(Image credit: Mark Baldwin / Shutterstock)3. Native Species Defense

To get around the vagueness of the term weeds, HOAs sometimes list plants that will be considered weeds. These lists often include native species, since they are not considered as valuable as cultivated plants.

But we now know that native plants have advantages that fancy plants may not offer. For one, native plants support local pollinators, birds, and ecosystems. If you plant beneficial native species, you may be out of sync with your HOA rules.

But some states and cities – especially in the West – now recognize native plant yards as compliant with landscaping standards and do not permit fines for this kind of HOA violation.

Tips to Stay Out of Trouble

If your life is complicated enough, you’ll want to take steps to avoid landscaping issues with your HOA. Follow these three steps to stay out of trouble.

1. Read the CC&Rs

The CC&Rs are one of those documents – like insurance policies and rental car agreements – that people tend to sign without reading. But if you want to avoid landscaping conflicts with the HOA, take the time to read them. What exactly does the document prohibit? If it is “weeds” or “noxious weeds,” then how are those terms defined?

(Image credit: Shutterstock)2. Ask Your HOA

Don’t be reluctant to run your questions about landscaping requirements by HOA officials. If the CC&Rs don’t define the terms, consider raising the question at an HOA meeting, and volunteer to be part of a committee to consider defining terms.

3. Present Your Case

If you want your backyard to be full of native wildflowers instead of hybrid roses, build a case and take it to the HOA meeting. Explain the role of native plants in a thriving ecosystem and show slides of native flowering plants to show other homeowners how attractive they can be. If necessary, call in someone from your local botanical garden to talk about the benefits of native species.

Essential Weeding Tools

Grampa's Weeder Original Stand Up Weed Puller Tool

The Grampa's Weeder has been around for decades, but Content Editor Laura just found out how effective it is against dandelions and other weeds.

A.M. Leonard Deluxe Soil Knife

Content Editor Kathleen swears by this soil knife for easy weed removal and countless other tasks in her landscape.

Spruce Snap & Spray Weed & Grass Killer

This weed killer spray is safe for people, pets, and pollinators. Try it on the most stubborn weeds in your landscape.

It's been almost a year since we lost one of the world's greatest naturalists and animal advocates: Jane Goodall. Of course everyone knowns Goodall for her work with chimpanzees. Do a google image search, and about half the results show her sharing the spotlight with a chimp. But her passion extended to the rest of the natural world, and her outreach was often centered on convincing us humans to understand our place in it.

In an interview with Smithsonian Magazine, Goodall had something remarkable to say about plants, and humankind's connection with them:

It's been proven by quite a few studies that plants are good for our psychological development. If you green an area, the rate of crime goes down. Torture victims begin to recover when they spend time outside in a garden with flowers. So we need them, in some deep psychological sense, which I don't suppose anybody really understands yet.

Jane Goodall, February 2013

This quote is in response to a question about endangered species: "Ecologically, when people think about endangered species, they mostly consider animals. Why should we be concerned about plants?" The underlying point, I think, is that without plants humans may very well end up on the endangered species list as well.

Welcome to Quote of the Week, a series where every Monday I'll take a look at a notable quotation about plants, gardening, and nature, and explore what it can teach us all about our connection to the garden. This week we'll be looking at the inimitable Jane Goodall.

"Without Plants, We Wouldn't Exist."

Jane Goodall's quote puts into words what most of us feel innately – that gardening and green spaces have a positive effect on human life. Here's an article on the Freedom From Torture charity in the UK that focuses on just that. And here's a study reflecting green space's ability to lower crime rates. The internet is full of studies and foundations proving Goodall's point.

What none of them mention is what I believe Goodall is getting at. She says that one of the greatest threats for endangered species is loss of habitat. Losing habitat doesn't only mean these animals have nowhere to live. (After all, you wouldn't say they've gained habitat with the construction of a new zoo). Habitat loss, for them, means losing the place they can live and thrive.

So aren't we humans, with every green space we destroy, losing our own habitat? We're creating a place we can live, sure, but not a place we can thrive.

That's why, as Dame Goodall says, we need plants in a deep psychological sense. It's the only way we can really exist in our natural state.

Planting Natural Habitat

Goodall worked tirelessly to sustain natural habitat, both for wildlife and for human beings. In a truly inspiring Instagram post, a teacher shared photos of two trees Goodall had donated to her school over thirty years earlier. You have to wonder just how many trees are out there that she's directly responsible for.

Jane Goodall Planting Trees

A photo posted by on

Create Your Own Natural Habitat

Eden Brothers Native North American Wildflower Seed Mix

Burpee Pollinator Mix Wildflowers Seeds

Botanical Interests Pollinator Garden Flower Mix Seeds

Trying to squeeze more plants into a shrinking yard, tiny patio or rental balcony can be frustrating, and I have many years of knowing this. With squeezed floor space, shadows cast by buildings, and the often impractical nature of installing permanent supports, small-space growing can feel like a constant compromise. Every pot counts, and every square foot can be hotly contested. Growing off the ground is something I’ve been doing for years, as my many hanging baskets demonstrate. But my new favorite way to grow in a small space is growing off the ground… on wheels.

Enter my latest small-space obsession: the RÅSKOG utility trolley, currently just $39.99 from IKEA. This sturdy three-tier metal cart is geared towards organizing kitchen pantries and craft supplies, but honestly? It’s also the ultimate secret weapon for container gardeners. By stacking a trio of generous growing tiers vertically on smooth-rolling casters, what you get is a multi-deck planter that takes up less than two square feet of floor space, while tripling your growing capacity.

It’s effectively a miniature rolling raised bed in triplicate, allowing you to chase every last ray of sunlight through the day, or relocate a growing unit on a whim to try out new corners. Whether you want to roll your homegrown salad greens to your al fresco dining area or tuck tender herbs out of a sudden downpour, this simple utility cart can transform how you use a limited plot. Here’s why this trolley deserves a prime spot in every container gardening setup, and how to make it work for you.

First impressions of RÅSKOG

The RÅSKOG brings that delightful fusion of industrial utility and effortless style. It’s available in a few shades, but I love the rich red-brown option which complements earth tones while also adding a lush sheen. So it instantly adds a pop of character to a humdrum patio wall or quiet balcony corner. But beyond its cheerful good looks, it’s the way it allows me to grow upwards – and change my mind without having to start totally from scratch (because heck, sometimes a change is needed).

Cart dimensions for the RÅSKOG are unassuming, but stuffed with possibilities. Measuring 13.8 x 17.7 x 30.7 inches (35 x 45 x 77 cm), it instantly creates a trio of prospects for container gardeners. And the space between the tiers is also quite enticing: there’s about 8 inches (20 cm) of clearance between the levels. Ok, it’s not a massive amount – but it definitely invites some very real options off the ground.

(Image credit: IKEA)

That headroom gives you real planting possibilities. Think bushy Genovese basil stretching toward the light, erect rosemary stems, or tumbling cherry toms weeping over the edges without being squished. Depth matters just as much. Just shy of 3.5 inches (10 cm), these deep, rimmed metal trays can keep a plant’s root balls secure and prevent pots from tipping over as you roll your mini raised planters on wheels.

Constructed from heavy-duty, powder-coated steel, the frame supports up to 39 pounds total (around 13 pounds per shelf). That means you can load it up with potting mix, terracotta saucers, trailing alpine strawberries, and watering cans without a wobble. Best of all, their castors glide effortlessly across decking, stone pavers, or indoor floorboards, making your entire mini garden wonderfully mobile. Plus, they are lockable, so once you want your unit to be secure, the wheels lock home.

Growing Plants in your Trolley

(Image credit: Martiapunts / Getty Images)

The real joy happens when you stop thinking of the RÅSKOG as a utility cart and treat it as a multi-level plant unit you can move about. Yes, you can pop individual pots onto each shelf, which is great in itself. But you can also direct-plant into the trays. Pick the right plants and it’s easy to make a lush, cascading fountain effect. To keep compost from spilling through the mesh bottoms, you just line each tray with some jute burlap or some flexible coco coir liner roll cut to size.

For a real bargain, the Sunyay Coconut Coir Liners from Amazon can easily be snipped into shape. To protect indoor floorboards or balcony tiles from drips, you can optionally slide a shallow plastic tray under the bottom tier. Designing each tier by light exposure and weight can help you bring out your trolley's true plant potential:

• Top Tier (Full Sun): Reserve the top deck for heat lovers that crave unrestricted overhead light. You can plant a vibrant tapestry of purple opal basil, fiery dwarf chili peppers, and sweet-scented golden thyme. Add a splash of trailing nasturtium for jewel-toned edible blossoms spilling artfully over the handrail.
• Middle Tier (Dappled Shade): Sheltered slightly by the top tray, this middle zone is ideal for lush, soft-stemmed herbs and leafy greens that might scorch in harsh sun. Think feathery bronze fennel, ruffled flat-leaf parsley, spicy arugula, and velvety chocolate mint. You can also use the ambient light for trailing bacopa or ivy.
• Bottom Tier (Anchor & Texture): Use the heavy bottom shelf to ground the cart. It is perfect for weightier terracotta pots holding woody sage, trailing thyme, or a thick carpet of wild strawberries with dainty blooms and bright fruits dangling gracefully over the rim (just make sure whatever you place here won’t catch the wheels).

(Image credit: IKEA/Future/AI)3 Ways to Use Your Trolley

Honestly, I wouldn’t want to be too prescriptive about what you can use this IKEA trolley for, because it’s so versatile. It offers quite a bit of scope depending on your potential ground space, navigable corners, and your daily routine. But it really does offer a bit of everything, from tiny-tiered plant installations to weekend hosting. It’s just a genuine small-space enhancement, because it can fit in so many places. Here are just three ways, but honestly, this is just the beginning…

1. Rolling Bar Garden

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Roll on happy hour! Imagine hosting summer drinks on the patio, rolling your fresh ingredients directly to the table. On the top tier, plant some lime-scented mojito mint, sweet pineapple sage, crimson-veined sorrel, and delicate edible pansies for floating garnishes. Then keep your cocktail shaker, fruit squeezer, and chopping board on the middle shelf, alongside a pair of scissors or shears, like compact Fiskars Garden Herb Pruning Shears from Walmart, for snipping your leaves straight into the glass rims. The bottom shelf easily holds your ice, tonic bottles, and spirits.

2. Propagation Station

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

Urban balconies and shadowed yards often suffer from shifting sun patterns. By dedicating your trolley to plant propagation, you can easily track every hour of direct sunlight by wheeling your green babies from window to window or across a patio. Fill the upper tray with clear glass bud vases holding soft cuttings of variegated coleus and trailing pothos. Maybe add some terracotta seed flats of baby spinach. You can also attach a clip-on grow light strip, like the Aoksun Grow Light Full Spectrum Light Strip from Walmart, giving lower-tier sprouts a gentle supporting boost.

3. Mobile Potting Caddy

(Image credit: Artisteer / Getty Images)

For city dwellers lacking a shed or garage, storing soil bags and hand tools can quickly clutter a small space. Turning the trolley into an all-in-one mobile potting station keeps your supplies contained and portable. Pack the bottom tray with a small sack of organic potting compost, a compact watering can, and spare clay pots. Use the middle level for small hand trowels and dibbers, spools of jute, and copper labels. Up top, display some cheery velvety succulents, fuzzy panda plants and star-shaped sedums to soak up the sun while you tend to your potting.

Other Double Duty Beauties

If the RÅSKOG isn't quite the right fit for your balcony or color story, several versatile rolling carts offer similar multi-tier magic. From serene sage greens to sleek modern profiles, they extend the options for helping you to get your mobile garden rolling.

Budget-Friendly Basic

Mainstays Mainstays 3-Tier Metal Frame Laundry Cart

Giving maximum function for a bargain price, this lightweight cart is perfect for urban renters testing out their vertical gardening dreams. Available in crisp white and earthy neutral tones, its mesh shelves provide plenty of airflow for potted succulents, microgreens, and propagation trays.

Sage & Botanical

TOOLF Toolf 3 Tier Rolling Utility Cart With Pegboard

Featuring a soft green powder coating, this sturdy steel cart is a near-match for the full-sized RÅSKOG. Its deep mesh trays provide excellent drainage and airflow for live potted crops, while side pegboard panels allow you to hang mini trowels, twine, and snips. Ideal for a soothing, patio aesthetic.

Sleek & Modern

Ebern Designs/Wayfair Ebern Designs 3 Tier Rolling Utility Cart With Drawer

For gardeners who love contemporary vibes, this modern cart features slightly taller side rails and a refined matte finish, including a lovely olive shade. Its high-capacity steel frame holds up to heavy clay pots and wet soil mix, making it a stylish bridge between outdoor prep and indoor styling.

Help Your Garden Trolley Last

(Image credit: IKEA/Future/AI)

To make the most from your rolling mini-garden season after season, it’s worth adding a little note about weather-proofing! The official product specs from IKEA rate the RÅSKOG primarily for indoor use. While its factory powder-coated steel handles minor splashes and day-to-day humidity like a champ, it probably can’t be left sitting in pooled rainwater. Being left exposed to the elements on an unsheltered balcony for months on end will take its toll on the exposed heads, frame joints and castors.

There is a workaround. Before you add your plants, give the entire frame a light, protective coat of Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Spray Paint from Amazon. This sealant locks out dampness, seals metal seams, and adds another level of protection against muddy garden splashes. This quick lick of glossy goodness can turn the cart into a rugged outdoor performer, allowing you to keep letting the good times roll.

Keep an eye on wind stability on exposed balconies. Make sure your heaviest terracotta pots, stone saucers, or filled watering cans stay on the bottom tier. Keep the center of gravity as low as you can, and use it with care. And remember, when the harsh weather kicks in, you can always wheel your super-trolley indoors…

Shop IKEA Vertical Ideas

While the versatile RÅSKOG trolley takes top prize for mobile flexibility, IKEA’s shelving lineup is packed with budget-friendly gems to build out your small-space sanctuary. Whether you want to add vertical height or develop a cozy wooden backdrop, this container-friendly trio can help complete your small space setup.

Save

IKEA Hyllis Shelf Unit (Indoor/Outdoor)

This is the ultimate budget plant stand. Made from durable galvanized steel, this simple shelving unit thrives indoors or out without rusting. It is perfect for lining against a balcony wall to hold heavier terracotta pots, seed flats, or extra bags of potting soil alongside your rolling cart.

Spend

IKEA Satsumas Bamboo Plant Stand

This unit pairs a smooth top tray with a warm frame and a slatted lower shelf. It’s great for a balcony wall or sunny window sill. The top tray can hold multiple potted favorites, while the bottom shelf offers airy storage for larger pots, small watering cans, or tools.

Splurge

IKEA Askholmen Flower Box With Trellis

You can transform a plain balcony railing or concrete patio wall into a lush vertical garden with this dark stained acacia wood planter box. The integrated trellis provides built-in support for climbing jasmine, sweet peas, or pole beans, for a gorgeous privacy screen.

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Is there such a thing as a delphinium dupe? I didn't think so either. After all, very little can rival those towering flower spikes and old-fashioned cottage garden charm that make them such enduring favorites, so it seemed all but impossible to find a perennial quietly replacing delphiniums.

The problem, though, is that delphiniums aren't always built for the summers many of us are gardening through now. Between scorching temperatures, prolonged dry spells, and increasingly unpredictable weather, they can quickly become thirsty, high-maintenance plants that struggle to look their best without plenty of care.

That's exactly why I started looking for an alternative that could deliver the same vertical drama without demanding constant watering. I expected to land on one of the usual suspects, but instead I found a native perennial that seems surprisingly underappreciated despite having all the ingredients of a future garden classic.

Meet The Perennial Quietly Replacing Delphiniums

I'm talking about wild lupine (Lupinus perennis). With its elegant purple flower spikes, impressive drought tolerance once established, it boasts an irresistible appeal to bees and butterflies, thus making it easier than ever to spot your birth month butterfly in your yard!

Basically, it captures much of what I love about delphiniums while being far better suited to the hotter and drier growing conditions becoming increasingly common across many parts of the US. The more I learn about it, the more convinced I am that this beautiful native perennial deserves a place in far more borders.

Shop Wild Lupines:

Outsidepride Wild Blue Perennial Lupine Seeds

GINGERGLOW 2 Wild Lupine Live Plant

Seed Needs Wild Perennial Lupine Seeds

Native to eastern and central North America, wild lupine is a long-lived herbaceous perennial prized for its tall spires of flowers that bloom in shades of violet-blue, purple, and (very occasionally) white. While it has a softer look than the densely packed flower spikes of a delphinium, the effect is remarkably similar, bringing height, movement, and cottage garden character to borders.

It's hardy throughout USDA Zones 3 to 8, where it thrives in full sun and well-drained soils, particularly sandy or gravelly sites where many traditional border perennials struggle. And, unlike delphiniums (which crave consistently moist and very fertile soil), wild lupine is perfectly happy in lean ground. In fact, it actually hates waterlogged conditions!

But wait, there's more! As a member of the pea family, it also fixes nitrogen in the soil, which means it can also help to improve the ground around it while asking for basically nothing in return. What a hero plant, right?

(Image credit: WePro/Getty Images)

Oh sure, there's no denying that delphiniums are beautiful, but they are also pretty demanding; hot weather, humidity, drought, strong winds, slugs, and powdery mildew are all enemies of this pretty short-lived perennial.

If you're the kind of gardener who doesn't have time to waste on endless staking, watering, and replacing plants, then, wild lupine offers a refreshingly low maintenance alternative once its established (its sturdy stems don't even need staking!). And, while it won't flower for months on end like delphiniums, you'd best believe the elegant vertical spikes provide just as much of an impact. In fact, its nectar-rich blooms are a beacon for pollinators (especially the endangered Karner blue butterfly, for which it is a host plant).

A must, then, for anyone interested in gardening for wildlife!

Shop Ready-To-Plant Lupines:

FLOWERSBULBS Purple Wild Lupine Live Plant

EKT Nursery Russell Lupine Plant Live

FLOWERSBULBS Purple Wild Lupine Live Plant

As gardeners rethink their planting choices in response to a changing climate, I can easily see wild lupine quietly replacing delphiniums as one of the defining perennials of modern cottage gardens.

After all, it delivers the upright flower spikes that make delphiniums so beloved, yet it's far better equipped to handle dry and nutrient-poor soils once established. Throw in the pollinator-friendly vibes, its native heritage, and its ability to thrive without constant attention? Yeah, it's easy to understand why more gardeners are beginning to appreciate its potential.

Delphiniums will always have their place, but if you're searching for a perennial that offers similar beauty while asking much less of you (and no judgment; I'm right there with you!), wild lupine may just be one of the smartest additions you can make to your borders. Time to get planting, I say...

Deadheading spent flowers is a typical and ongoing garden chore. It tidies up plants and promotes continuous blooms. On the other hand, those spent blooms can be very handy for migrating birds beginning in late summer and continuing into fall.

Faded flowers aren’t done providing value to your garden. In addition to helping birds, the stalks and seedpods add visual interest to the garden. For some species, the seeds might even drop and help plants spread or become naturalized. Resist the urge to tidy every bed this time of year. Instead, let it go at least a little bit natural and wildlife-friendly.

Many of your flowering plants produce berries or seeds that provide a vital food source for native birds. Leaving flower stalks in place can also provide much-needed shelter and resting spots for migrating species. So, if you want to support your bird friends, don’t deadhead these plants that help them during fall migration.

1. Coneflowers

(Image credit: Danita Delimont / Shutterstock)

Echinacea, or coneflower, is a popular native perennial wildflower that grows well in sunny beds and blooms throughout summer. The daisy-like flowers come in a variety of colors and have a characteristic cone-shaped center.

Once the petals fall, these cones remain and are packed with nutritious seeds that birds love. Many seed-eating birds, like finches and chickadees, will stop to pick at the cones. The stems are sturdy and will remain upright with cones intact even in winter, so leave at least some in place both to feed native species and for visual interest.

You can explore tons of gorgeous coneflower cultivars from Wayside Gardens that support migrating birds and look gorgeous in any landscape.

2. Black-Eyed Susans

(Image credit: Vicki-Jauron, Babylon and Beyond Photography / Getty Images)

Rudbeckia, commonly called black-eyed Susan, is a similar daisy-like native wildflower known for its cheerful yellow color and dark centers that develop plenty of seeds in fall. While the flowers feed pollinators in summer, in fall the dense seed cones feed birds.

As with coneflowers, you can leave the stems intact through fall and even into winter. Trim them down to the ground if they begin to flop or rot. If you want a tidier appearance in your beds, deadhead and cut back some of the stems early and leave a few in place for birds.

If you want to support goldfinches and other birds that adore rudbeckia, but don't love the yellow blooms, try this stunning red cultivar called 'Cherry Brandy' from Wayside Gardens.

3. Sunflowers

(Image credit: Volodymyr Kucherenko / Getty Images)

Both native and cultivated sunflowers (Helianthus spp.) are excellent and abundant food sources for birds in fall. Grosbeaks, nuthatches, jays, cardinals, and other birds are drawn to the big seedheads that sunflowers develop in fall.

If you grow sunflowers for cut flowers, consider growing a few extra plants that will feed the birds. Sunflower seeds are among the richest sources of nutrients for migrating birds in fall. The large seeds are high in calories and healthy fats that help power their long journeys.

You can supplement birds' natural food sources with high-energy suet blocks, like these ones from Chewy, to ensure they have enough fuel to power them on their long journey south.

4. Joe Pye Weed

(Image credit: Gail Shotlander / Getty Images)

Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium spp.) is a very tall native perennial, growing up to 7 feet (2 m) high. It blooms in midsummer and early fall with flat-topped clusters of small pink flowers. These flowers turn into fluffy seed structures later in fall and readily remain on top of the tall, sturdy stems without flopping.

Leave at least some of these in place as the small seeds will attract late-migrating birds. The tall stems also offer perches and shelter for these birds to rest hidden from predators. In addition to eating the seeds, some birds use the fluffy “hair” for nesting.

This beautiful native plant can be hard to find at the garden center, but you can buy Joe Pye weed online from Nature Hills Nursery.

5. Asters

(Image credit: Andrii Salomatin/Alamy)

Native asters (Symphyotrichum spp.) are popular perennials for their abundance of delicate, daisy-like flowers that bloom in late summer and through most of fall in some regions. They come in a variety of colors, from purple and pink to white and blue.

The small seeds that asters produce after the flowers are spent provide a great food source for many small migrating birds, so leave some of them in place. As a late-blooming flower, asters are particularly important for providing food later in the season when other resources are scarce. Also, the dense growth of the plants offers good shelter for small birds.

You can get a 4-pack of pretty purple asters from Vigoro at the Home Depot for under $20.

6. Viburnum

(Image credit: Picmin / Shutterstock)

Viburnum is a large group of shrubs often prized in landscaping for their spring flowers, late summer and fall berries, and attractive fall color. Several popular viburnum varieties are native and develop berries that are popular among birds.

Resist the urge to tidy up your viburnum hedges too much at this time of year. Cedar waxwings, grosbeaks, bluebirds, and other native species will thank you for leaving both the berries and some of the dense growth in place. They benefit from the food source and the shelter.

This viburnum called 'Spice Girl' from Proven Winners at FastGrowingTrees.com has the added benefit of vibrant fall foliage as well, so it's wonderful for both birds and gardeners in fall.

Not deadheading some of your plants is great for your local ecosystem, and especially for native birds, but it can also look messy. You can trim back plants and deadhead some of the flowers to keep beds looking tidy while still supporting birds. If any foliage or seedheads look diseased or are rotting, remove them to prevent the problem spreading to other plants.

Matthew McConaughey usually keeps his private life just that, but he recently gave us a glimpse of the relaxed outdoor space at his Lake Austin estate, and one detail immediately caught my eye: a beautiful rope porch swing... albeit one with a twist.

Yes, while most porch swings tick all the usual boxes, it seems the Interstellar star prefers to keep things a little more chilled and a lot more comfortable: his is less of a classic seat, more of a rope-suspended daybed that looks like the ultimate place to spend a lazy afternoon.

With its simple wooden frame, thick ropes and layers of soft cushions, it has that effortlessly luxurious look that elevates a porch or patio immediately. And the good news? You don’t necessarily need a celebrity-sized property – or a celebrity-sized budget – to get the look, as it is very simple to DIY!

Matthew McConaughey's Rope Porch Swing Is So Easy To DIY

Spotted by eagle-eyed fans in a recent post by Matthew McConaughey's wife, Camila, the setup essentially proves that an outdoor daybed doesn’t need to be complicated. At its simplest, it’s a sturdy wooden platform suspended from four points, with a mattress or oversized outdoor cushion on top.

Add a few pillows, and you have a swinging lounge bed that looks considerably more expensive than it needs to. And there’s even a clever DIY shortcut if you don’t want to build the entire frame from scratch: wooden pallets.

Check it out:

A post shared by Camila Alves McConaughey (@camilamcconaughey)

A photo posted by on

Dreamy, right?

How to Make a Pallet Swing Bed

If you want to recreate Matthew McConaughey's rope daybed, one of the easiest starting points is a pair of sturdy wooden pallets. Joined together, they create a generously sized platform that can be sanded smooth and finished with an exterior-rated stain or paint before being transformed with a thick outdoor mattress and plenty of weather-resistant cushions.

It's a surprisingly simple way to achieve the same laidback look without building a frame from scratch.

(Image credit: Westend61/Getty Images)

The one thing I wouldn't cut corners on is the hanging system. A swing bed needs to be suspended from structural beams using properly load-rated hardware – not decorative hooks or lightweight fixings. (If you're unsure whether your porch or pergola is designed to support that kind of weight, it's worth asking a qualified contractor before you start).

Once the hard work is done, the styling is the easy part. Layer up oversized outdoor cushions like these, add a couple of throw pillows and a lightweight blanket (you want to stick to coastal vibes: think stripes and faded blues, like this stylish herringbone throw from Amazon), and suddenly those humble pallets feel less like a DIY project and more like the kind of luxurious outdoor retreat you'd expect to find at Matthew McConaughey's Lake Austin home.

Of course, if the DIY route still sounds like more work than you'd like, there's an even easier option: buy yourself a ready-made rope porch swing.

Shop Porch Swings:

SAVE

Topcobe 2-Seat Acacia Wood Porch Swing Bench With Hemp Ropes

Allowing two adults to lounge in comfort, this is perfect for cozy afternoons with a loved one or for enjoying your morning coffee in solitude.

SPEND

Litex Twin Size Acacia Wood Hanging Swing Bed With Ropes

Designed to fit a standard twin-size mattress, this outdoor porch swing bed creates a spacious place for reading, resting, napping, or enjoying quiet moments outside.

SPLURGE

Walmart Hanging Daybed With Acacia Wood and Hand-Woven Rattan Frame

Crafted from high-quality acacia wood and featuring hand-woven rattan, this swing bed offers a sophisticated aesthetic that blends with various outdoor décor styles. 

To lounge the Matthew McConaughey way, all you really need is a wooden bed, a few lengths of rope and some very good cushions so you can swing away to your heart's content.

Frankly, I can't think of many better ways to spend a summer afternoon than gently swinging in the shade with nowhere else to be.

August feels like the wrong month to be putting seed in the ground. For most vegetables, it is. Perennial wildflowers run on a different clock – many of them need a long cold, damp spell before they will germinate at all. That is exactly what happens to seed left sitting outside from now through March.

Direct sown seeds handle that process unassisted. No refrigerator space, no damp paper towels sealed in a bag. The tradeoff is patience. A few of these bloom their opening summer, though plenty spend year one on roots and only turn up properly the season after.

Perennial Seeds Worth Scattering This Month

Everything below takes cold and wet without complaint, which is the main thing to ask of anything left outdoors from September on. Zones listed apply to established plants, and seedlings in their first winter are more fragile than that.

1. Purple Coneflower

(Image credit: Mieneke Andeweg van Rijn / Getty Images)

Coneflower seed does better sown thick than sown carefully. Germination runs uneven even under decent conditions, so scattering more than seems reasonable is standard. A hand-powered spreader from Home Depot throws it further and more evenly than a fist can. Hardy through zones 3 to 9, it likes sun and soil that drains. Heavy clay that stays wet all spring rots the crowns early on. First-year plants stay low and leafy. Flowers turn up the second summer, then keep arriving for years with hardly any input.

Warm Summer Echinacea Seeds & Plant

2. Black-Eyed Susan

(Image credit: Heather Love / 500px / Getty Images)

Not much colonizes bare dirt faster. Black-eyed Susan is short-lived, usually behaving like a biennial across zones 3 to 7. It reseeds freely enough that a patch renews itself with no replanting. Surface-sow it. The seed needs light, and burying it is the single most common reason a scattering fails. Thin mineral soil works better here than a rich bed. Think of it as the crop that holds a spot while everything slower makes up its mind.

Indian Summer Rudbeckia Seeds

3. New England Aster

(Image credit: AlpamayoPhoto / Getty Images)

By the time asters open, most of the meadow has already called it a year. That late bloom is the point. It also lands as monarchs move through much of the country. Zones 4 to 8 covers most of the range. New England aster gets tall – 3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5m) is normal – and flops over when the soil is too rich. Seed dropped on packed sod mostly washes away. Open the surface with a bow rake from Walmart, then scatter. That gives it somewhere to lodge.

Eden Brothers New England Aster Seeds

4. Butterfly Weed

(Image credit: Mike Redmer / Shutterstock)

Moving this one rarely ends well, which is the argument for scattering it where it will stay. Butterfly weed sends down a deep taproot early and resents disturbance after that. These are best suited for zones 3 to 9. Dormancy breaks only after a properly cold, damp stretch. A sowing that sits out all winter tends to beat anything attempted in spring. Progress above the surface looks slow that opening season. Push a few marking flags from Amazon in around the patch, because the seedlings are easy to mistake for weeds come April.

Eden Brothers Butterfly Milkweed Seeds

5. Lanceleaf Coreopsis

(Image credit: RobinOlimb / Getty Images)

Lean soil and full sun. There is not much else on the list for this one. Lanceleaf coreopsis is happy anywhere from zone 4 to zone 9 and often flowers its debut season, filling the gap while slower species are still working underground. Once settled, it takes over the reseeding itself. Deadheading is arguably counterproductive here, since letting seed fall is how a stand thickens up. Drought barely registers. Give it the driest strip on the property.

Eden Brothers Lance-Leaf Coreopsis Seeds

6. Wild Bergamot

(Image credit: Brian Woolman / Shutterstock)

The smell arrives before the flowers do. Crushed bergamot foliage gives off a sharp oregano-mint note. That oil is a good part of why deer walk past it. Rated for zones 3 to 9, it creeps by rhizome once established. Gaps get filled rather than held as one tidy clump. Surface-sow this one too. Powdery mildew turns up on crowded plants in humid summers, so spread the seed over a wide patch instead of concentrating it in a corner.

Eden Brothers Bee Balm Seeds - Wild Bergamot

7. Blanket Flower

(Image credit: Iva Vagnerova / Shutterstock)

Poor soil is a feature here, not a problem to fix. Blanket flower burns out fast in rich, damp beds. It hangs on for years in the gritty stuff nothing else will touch – roughly zones 3 to 8. Light triggers germination, so press the seed into contact with the surface rather than covering it over. Bloom tends to come the same year from an August sowing. The plants stay low and wide, useful along a path edge where anything taller ends up leaning across.

Eden Brothers Blanket Flower Seeds

8. Wild Blue Indigo

(Image credit: Mariola Anna S / Shutterstock)

Patience is the price of admission here. Wild blue indigo (also known as false indigo and baptisia) can take three or four years to flower from seed, which puts a lot of people off. Whatever comes out the other side often outlives the gardener who scattered it. It sits comfortably in zones 3 to 9. That seed coat is hard enough to need a winter outdoors to soften, and the taproot runs deep enough that relocating a plant later is off the table. Nick the seed lightly before sowing to hedge the bet.

Everwilde Farms Blue Wild Indigo Seeds

Dahlias are well known for putting on a spectacular show. By August, many varieties are bursting into vibrant parades of unabashed beauty. But even though they are late-season bloomers, and can theoretically delight well into fall, continued flowering is by no means a sure thing as fall approaches. Heat stress, mildew, and pests can all have an impact, not to mention just keeping those blooms standing upright.

Depending on when yours started blooming (not to mention your local climate), even the most prolific dahlia varieties might be starting to fade or flop by the tail end of summer. They’ve been hard at work putting out new growth, buds, and flowers, after all. While expending all that energy, the various perils of the season can take their toll. So while this is their prime time, it doesn’t mean you can take a step back.

The good news is that it’s really easy to stay on top of things, so your dahlias keep dazzling for as long as possible. Whether you grow sprawling varieties, pompons, or compact patio cultivars, devoting 20 minutes this week to a few thoughtful tweaks will encourage more buds and hence more beautiful dinnerplate blooms. Here’s how to keep your darlings healthy, upright, and flush with color right up to first frost.

Quick Dahlia Tasks in August

Before jumping into these easy wins, take a few minutes to check your soil moisture and environmental conditions. Dahlias originate from Mexico and Central America, where they thrive in warm days, cool nights, and free-draining soil. In temperate areas (USDA hardiness zones 3-8), or warm southern zones ( 9-11), their shallow root systems are vulnerable. Container-grown dahlias face even harsher conditions, as pot soil can reach scorching temperatures that can stop root absorption.

Dahlias need consistent moisture to continue blooming. Light, daily sprinkles will dry out quickly and don’t allow water to penetrate deeply enough to reach all the roots. Focus on watering less often (2-3 times per week) but more deeply. Water at the base to keep leaves dry and to discourage fungal infections. To get a really good sense of conditions at root level, test the moisture at a 4-inch (10cm) depth, using a simple probe like the highly rated XLUX Soil Moisture Meter, available from Amazon.

(Image credit: Martin Wahlborg / Getty Images)

Before hitting this checklist, it’s also a good idea to check and refresh the mulch around your dahlias. Where it looks dry, replace it with a 2-inch (5cm) blanket of shredded bark, such as Vigoro Premium Brown Wood Shredded Mulch, available at The Home Depot. Mulching can reduce soil moisture loss by up to 40%, giving your plants a more stable basis for the following jobs. Make a little time for these tasks now, and you’ll add loads of extra time to your dahlia’s blooming life and intensity.

1. Deadhead Flowers and Trim Back Stems

(Image credit: Libby Double / Getty Images)

Deadheading is a simple trick to keeping your dahlia blooms burgeoning into fall. Leaving spent flowers on their stems means plants start putting energy into making seeds – and essentially stop flowering. So aim to remove faded flowers right away, and make this task a twice-weekly feature. Rather than snipping just below the flower, cut just above the next set of healthy leaves. This encourages branching, resulting in bushier growth with more opportunities for flowers to develop and bloom.

To make clean cuts through thick, fibrous dahlia stems without crushing delicate vascular tissue, use razor-sharp snips like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears from Walmart for precision trimming that won’t tear at tissue. Collect spent blooms and leggy trimmings cleanly as you move down the border. You’ll be amazed how quickly these faded heads can accumulate, so go for something sturdy, like the KingWillow Wicker Basket from Amazon which is both practical and elegantly rustic. Expect to see fresh side shoots pushing new buds within 7-10 days of pruning.

If you get confused between new buds and spent heads, here’s a quick check. The round, marble-like buds are the fresh flowers, while the pointed, squishy cones are the spent blooms that have already shed their petals. Distinguishing between the two is vital when working through heavy-flowering cactus and semi-cactus varieties. Get this right, and your future showstoppers are well on their way.

2. Switch to a Bloom-Boosting Fertilizer

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Dahlias are heavy feeders and benefit from regular feeding through the growing season. While you may have used a balanced fertilizer earlier in summer, now is the time to focus on the flowers, which means more potassium and less nitrogen. Nitrogen encourages foliage growth, while potassium is necessary for flower bud formation. Too much nitrogen produces weak, hollow stems that are incapable of supporting massive flower heads like those of Labyrinth or Emory Paul.

This month, you need a general flower-boosting product or any fertilizer that emphasizes potassium and phosphorus. This will help you to drive those extra blooms and intensify petal pigmentation, and it will also strengthen the plant’s tuber reserves for winter storage. Look for a 5-10-10 or 3-4-6 ratio, such as with Espoma’s Tomato-tone, available from Amazon. However, resist the urge to overfeed. Adding more potassium won’t magically create more flowers. The goal is to create balanced nutrition that supports a healthy plant while encouraging ongoing blooming.

To help with root structure and essential trace minerals, supplement every fortnight with an ocean-derived tonic like kelp or seaweed. For a budget booster, try Bloom City’s Organic Liquid Seaweed and Kelp Fertilizer from Walmart to nurture that generous bloom party. Remember to always water the root zone before applying liquid or granular fertilizers to prevent nutrient root burn.

3. Support Long Stems

(Image credit: Martin-Wahlborg / Getty Images)

Depending on your dahlia variety, your gorgeous blooms may be accompanied with very tall stems. However, heavy flowers can cause even strong stems to sag or flop. A single dinnerplate dahlia bloom can retain several ounces of rainwater, instantly doubling its weight and snapping unsupported main stalks with upsetting finality. So you need to check the strength of any supports you have in place, especially for massive decorative and dinnerplate varieties reaching 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5m) in height.

Add additional stakes at this point if necessary. Bamboo stakes are a great, natural choice for holding up dahlia stems and flowers. You can get affordable batches of bamboo online. Try Backyard X-Scapes 4ft Natural Bamboo from Walmart which arrive in packs of 25. These have natural yield but hold up well against late summer winds. Drive supports into the ground at a slight outward angle, inserting them 12 inches (30cm) deep and at least 2-3 inches (5-8cm) from the main tuber crown.

Use flexible, soft ties to secure stems to them. Stretch tape works well, or you can use twine like Nutscene Heritage Green Jute Garden Twine from Amazon for gentle support. Use a figure-eight pattern to avoid stem chafing against the stakes in windy conditions. Don't wrap ties tightly around soft green stems: always allow a little slack for stem expansion as the plant continues to grow. Properly secured plants will weather heavy summer downpours without losing a single bloom head.

4. Strip Lower Leaves to Support Airflow

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Dahlias are prone to certain fungal infections, especially powdery mildew, which thrive in moist conditions with poor airflow. The lower foliage can become dense and even touch the ground, where it can pick up spores. Stripping this bottom foliage, often referred to as bottom-pruning or skirting, opens up the airway, allowing morning breezes to dry out soil and eliminate the conditions fungal spores need to germinate.

Target yellow leaves, damaged leaves, and those close to the ground. This simple task prevents vulnerable leaves from getting and staying damp. As an extra preventative measure (or if you aren’t sure which leaves to take), you can also get Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide from Walmart to keep botrytis at bay. Remember to use these treatments early in the morning or at dusk so you don’t scorch the leaves.

If you see any visibly infected foliage, remove it and dispose of it. Do not put it in a compost pile. Where you suspect an infection may have affected a part of the plant, spray the foliage with a gentle sulfur alternative, such as Captain Jack's Copper Fungicide Concentrate, available from Lowe’s. You can also prevent fungal diseases by watering carefully at the base of each plant, avoiding getting the leaves wet, and watering in the morning so leaves have a chance to dry through the day.

5. Watch for Pests

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

Check your dahlia plants regularly for signs of pests, so you can manage them before they turn into a major problem. August heat accelerates pest life cycles, allowing thrips, spider mites, and nocturnal earwigs to multiply rapidly. Thrips cause discolored or distorted flowers, like stippling, deformed buds, and silvery patches on leaves. Spider mites leave delicate webbing, while earwigs cause ragged bites in leaves and petals. Earwigs are particularly destructive to dahlias, because they hide inside developing bloom buds during the day and feast on petals by night.

Inspect petal crevices and leaf undersides. You can blast mites and thrips away with a strong spray of water. Honestly, this is a satisfying job, especially when you know you are keeping your dahlias in good fettle for a few more weeks of color. You can also manage pests organically with a neem application like Captain Jack’s Neem Max Concentrate from Walmart. Dilute and spray the leaves of your plants, then wipe. Use a pressurized pump sprayer like the Chapin 1-Gallon Lawn and Garden Sprayer from The Home Depot for an efficient mist application across dense dahlia borders.

Shop Dahlia Care Essentials

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Keeping your dahlias standing tall, healthy, and covered in massive blooms through fall doesn't require a shed full of chemicals. A few treatments and protective supports is all it takes to ensure a spectacular show right up until the first frost. Here’s my trio of go-to treats for gorgeous dahlia blooms:

Organic Control

Arber Arber Organic Biofungicide Concentrate

Humid weather creates ideal conditions for powdery mildew and leaf spot. This OMRI-listed biological spray uses beneficial soil microbes to protect dahlia foliage from fungal diseases, keeping leaves clean, green, and photosynthesizing efficiently.

Flower Fuel

Espoma Espoma Organic Tomato-tone

Late-summer dahlias need potassium rather than nitrogen to fuel continuous flower production. This organic liquid fertilizer delivers high-potash nutrition that sparks continuous new buds and intensifies petal color.

Foliage Defense

Captain Jack's Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Max Concentrate

Warm summer weather brings out thrips, spider mites, and aphids in earnest. This 3-in-1 spray helps you to keep one step ahead of buggy despair, protecting delicate dahlia petals and keeping foliage healthy all the way through the blooming season.

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Urn planters are everywhere this summer, and there’s no doubt who’s leading this huge garden trend as Anthropologie just expanded its already-excellent range of pedestal pots. These shapely vessels have been status symbols since Romans first commandeered storage urns to decorate their swanky villas. Centuries later, once European royal families favoured using them as planters, urns became a stylish staple of landscaped gardens.

Now this classical shape is enjoying its most recent resurgence, and because of their long history and associations with high society, urn planters will bring an air of effortless elegance to any garden. As container gardening ideas go, this is such an easy upgrade that will suit every backyard.

While you may need a pretty opulent pay packet to afford Anthropologie urn planters, ravishing as they may be, there are plenty of dupes that can give your backyard the look for a whole lot less. I’ve rounded up the very best urn planters to match the dreamiest offerings from Anthropologie, so we can all enjoy this timeless trend – and the cheapest of these good value planters is currently on sale for less than $5. So, if you want to enhance your garden design on a budget, now's the time to add some iconic style to your patio without splashing the cash.

Antique Elegance

Dream buy

Handmade Cast Iron 41" Urn Planter

Budget buy

Traditional 16" Whitewash Plastic Urn

Bargain buy

European Vintage Pedestal Planter Pot

Stately Swags

Dream buy

Floral Swag 20" Terracotta Urn Planter

budget buy

16.5" Magnesium Oxide Urn Planter

bargain buy

17" Large Antique White Plastic Urn Planter

Charming Chalices

dream buy

Cast Iron Handled 16" Urn Planter

budget buy

18.5" Metal Urn Planter in Bronze Classic Antique Iron

bargain buy

Vintage 13.6" Iron White Urn Planter in Faux Stone Finish

Grecian Good Looks

dream buy

Handmade 11" Low Cast Iron Urn Planter

budget buy

Pequena 17.3" Fiber Clay Urn Planter

bargain buy

Root & Vessel 18" Grecian Urn Planter

Ancient Opulence

dream buy

Barnacle Thistle 31" Earthenware Urn Planter

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Darcy 16" Durable Polyresin Urn Planter

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Modena 16" Sandstone Fiber-Clay Urn Planter

What to Plant in an Urn Planter

Any happy-in-a-pot perennial that brings maximum flowers for minimum effort, year after year, is an easy win in any container, and an urn will elevate the most humble of plants to stylish new heights. But urn planters invite you to break the rules, too. Their iconic shape speaks of centuries of style so you can afford to be bold with the planting. These on trend planters afford all sorts of opportunities regular pots don’t, too, so you use their height to dramatic effect.

For a start, as well as planting your usual pot thrillers and fillers, any container plants with trailing stems will spill dramatically over the rim of an urn planter. Or how about planting a fall-flowering clematis in your pedestal planter so the vine cascades over the container rim to pool in a beautiful sea of blooms around its base?

Plants with a naturally arching habit work so well in urn planters, too. Feather Falls Carex grass (available from Burpee) boasts an evergreen fountain of soft, variegated blades for a container that looks luxuriant all year round. Growing Blue Cascade Rosemary (available from Nature Hills) in an urn planter is also a delight as the stems of this low-maintenance shrub grow up as well as down, and its evergreen foliage is joined by blooms in the most beautiful blue hue from spring to fall.

Because the pedestal elevates the planting, you can create layers of vertical interest, too, especially if the urn is to be positioned on the patio – or a smaller, squatter design on a table – where it’ll be viewed from a seated height. Pair a standout evergreen ornamental grass such as Blue Whiskers Blue Fescue (available from Plant Addicts) with Plentifall Lavender Blue trailing pansies (available from Burpee) for a texture treat that’ll delight all through fall and winter.

More Dashing Dupe Urn PlantersEarthy Vibes

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My Texas House 16" Asti Urn White Recycled Resin Planter

Stately Gray

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Concrete Fluted Edge 16" Urn Planter

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Bronze Beauties

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Woven Textures

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Use an Urn Planter to DIY a Water Feature

A bowl-shaped urn planter can be used to make a stylish DIY water feature using a solar-powered floating fountain by sealing the drainage hole with a marine silicone sealant such as Star Brite Waterproof Sealant from Amazon. Or how about standing your urn planter in a wider container to make a standout planter with a water feature at its center?

There are so many quick and clever ideas for container planting that work in an urn planter, so get creative and treat your patio to a standout display, without breaking the budget.

Confession time: I’ve never been particularly excited by dandelions. Oh sure, they may be cheerful and surprisingly useful to pollinators, but when one pops up in the garden, my first instinct is usually to glare at it. Very suspiciously.

Apparently, though, my heart is a fickle thing. Because as soon as I spotted a pretty pink version of the classic dandelion at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, I suddenly understood why designers were giving it so much attention (and why Audrey Hepburn’s “I believe in pink” line still gets quoted so much all these years later).

Crepis rubra, commonly known as red-flowered hawks’ beard or pink dandelion, has the familiar shape of a dandelion but swaps its usual golden-yellow flowers for (you guessed it!) delicate shades of pink. The result is much softer, and feels much more romantic-looking, resulting in a plant that feels surprisingly sophisticated in a garden setting.

Hate Dandelions? This Pretty Pink Version Is The New ‘It' Flower

The pink dandelion was one of the plants that caught my eye among the show gardens at Chelsea, and I wasn’t alone. There’s something about those simple, open flower heads that makes them instantly appealing – particularly when planted among grasses and other naturalistic planting.

Rather than looking like something you’d spend the summer trying to eradicate from your lawn, then, pink dandelions )available to buy from seed here) look like a deliberate design choice... and there are a few more benefits to growing these pretty blooms, too.

(Image credit: joerglondong / 500px / Getty Images)

Yes, much like the classic dandelion, Crepis rubra attracts bees and other pollinators, making it a lovely addition to a wildlife garden that looks good and does better for the world around it.

It’s also wonderfully unfussy, especially considering it has show garden status now. You can try growing it in any well-drained soil in full sun . It is also considered a drought-tolerant plant, making it naturally suited for low-water or neglected garden spots (aka all of them, considering our recent stint of hot weather) once its roots are established.

It's a reminder that sometimes the smallest twist on a familiar favorite can make us see it in a completely new way. And it's not the only bloom proving that pink has the power to transform even the most unexpected flowers.

Shop Pink Flower Seeds:

Sherwoods Seeds Pink Dandelion Taraxacum

If you love the idea of a pink dandelion, this is the real thing. Unlike Crepis rubra, Taraxacum pseudoroseum belongs to the true dandelion genus and produces soft pink flowers with golden centers. It's a quirky choice for wildlife-friendly gardens and offers all the charm of a classic dandelion in a much prettier package.

Mountain Valley Seed Company Scabiosa

Another favorite in naturalistic planting, scabiosa's delicate pink and purple blooms float above slender stems from summer into fall. Bees and butterflies adore them, and they're drought tolerant once established, making them a great companion to Crepis rubra.

Outsidepride Purple Echinacea

If you want something with a little more height, pink and purple coneflowers bring the same relaxed meadow feel as a pink dandelion, and all while providing months of color and nectar for pollinators. They're also famously resilient, thriving in sunny, dry gardens.

I suppose the biggest takeaway from all of this is that a dandelion can look so much more appealing when you change the color. The pink and oh-so-romantic cousin has that effortlessly easy-breezy quality designers love, while the compact size makes them easy to imagine tucked anywhere in your own yard.

So, while I don’t think I’ll be rushing to welcome every dandelion that appears in my lawn (old habits; I am trying, though, to leave a patch for the bees!), these pretty in pink versions have convinced me that perhaps I was being a little too hard on the humble dandelion family after all.

And hey, if they're good enough for RHS Chelsea, they' re definitely good enough for me!

October through April is a long stretch for a vegetable bed to sit bare. Six cover crops worth sowing after the last harvest, each with its hardiness range and the beds it tends to follow best.

A cleared row in September looks finished. It isn't. Whatever the tomatoes or the sweet corn pulled out of that ground is gone for good. Rain keeps working on what's left through the cold months too, packing the surface and pushing nutrients past the root zone.

Cover crop planting handles most of that for the price of a seed bag. Living roots keep soil microbes fed when there's nothing else down there to eat, and the top growth goes back into the ground come spring. Different crops do different jobs, though. One fixes nitrogen while another drills through hardpan. Matching the crop to what it follows is where the payoff sits.

Cover Crops Worth Sowing After the Harvest

Sowing runs about the same for most of these. Clear the spent plants, scratch the surface open, broadcast by hand, then cover the seed and water it in if the forecast looks dry. A steel bow rake from Amazon buries seed better than a leaf rake will. Timing matters more than the seed choice, so count backward from the average first frost date.

1. Winter Rye

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Nothing else germinates as late as winter rye, also called cereal rye. Winter rye comes up in soil as cool as 34F (1C), which buys extra weeks when the peppers hang on into October. It overwinters clear to zone 3. And it's the roots you're paying for, not the top growth — a dense fibrous mass that holds a loose bed together through freeze-thaw. Rye also puts out compounds that suppress small-seeded weeds, useful after a weedy squash patch. That same chemistry can stall carrots or lettuce sown too soon, though. Give it three or four weeks. Cut it low with a hand sickle from Amazon before the seed heads push up. Heirloom winter rye seeds can be purchased from True Leaf Market in small or large quantities to suit your needs.

2. Crimson Clover

(Image credit: Nnattalli / Shutterstock)

Six to eight weeks ahead of the first hard freeze is the window for planting, here. Sown later than that, crimson clover comes up thin and winter takes it. Given the head start, it overwinters as a winter annual through zone 6. Nitrogen returned by spring bloom can land near 70 to 130 pounds per acre (78-146kg per hectare). Sweet corn and brassica patches both leave the ground hungry, so either one makes a sensible landing spot. April flowers earn their keep on top of that — crimson spikes covered in bees, right when little else is open. Heirloom crimson clover seeds can be found at True Leaf Market and will keep weeds at bay through the winter.

3. Hairy Vetch

(Image credit: zzz555zzz / Shutterstock)

On its own, hairy vetch sprawls into a mat that's miserable to cut. Sown alongside rye it climbs the stems instead. The pairing covers two jobs at once, nitrogen from one and structure from the other. Hardiness runs to zone 4 under snow cover, dependable up to zone 8. Broadcast them together at close to even weight, then rake in about an inch (2.5cm) deep. Tomato beds are the classic use, with decades of trial work showing better yields and slower foliar disease where tomatoes go into mowed vetch residue. The catch is reseeding. Let it mature and volunteers could turn up for years, so terminate at early bloom. Find hairy vetch seeds at True Leaf Market.

4. Daikon Radish

(Image credit: koromelena / Getty Images)

Daikon radish taproots drop 10 to 14 inches (25-36cm) into decent ground, sometimes deeper, punching channels through the compacted layer under a hard-worked plot. Then it dies. Anywhere temperatures settle near 20F (-7C) the plant winter-kills and the root rots in place, leaving the holes behind and nothing to terminate in spring. Sow six to eight weeks before frost. Seed goes shallow, a half inch (1cm) at most. Skip it where cabbage or kale just came out, since daikon is a brassica itself and stacking brassicas invites clubroot. You can find bulk daikon radish seeds from Outsidepride on Amazon.

5. Buckwheat

(Image credit: TodayDesign / Getty Images)

Beds that become free in July don't have to sit empty until fall. Buckwheat shades the ground fast and flowers in 30 to 40 days. That leaves room for a full cycle before cool-season crops go in. It pries loose phosphorus that is bound up in the soil, then hands it back as the residue breaks down. Hoverflies and small native bees work the blooms hard, too. Frost finishes the plant, so treat it as a gap-filler rather than winter cover. Mow at first bloom, or smother the stand under a black silage tarp from Amazon for two weeks. Find buckwheat seed from High Mowing Organic Seeds and sow 45 days before first frost.

6. Lacy Phacelia

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Native cover crops get recommended on principle. For soil work it only carries so far, since a root either opens the ground or it doesn't. Above the bed is where native species pull ahead. Phacelia, native to the Southwest and northern Mexico, sits in the top tier of pollen plants for honeybees. Also called purple tansy, its roots catch nitrate that would otherwise leach away over the wet months. Winterkill lands near 18F (-8C), so most gardens sow in early fall and let the cold handle termination. Partridge pea covers similar ground east of the Rockies, a native annual that fixes nitrogen on its own. None of this has to be perfect. A patch with something green on it in January is already ahead of one sitting bare. Lacy phacelia seeds can be purchased from HadiahGarden on Etsy.

If you’ve been reliably feeding hummingbirds in your garden all summer, then it’s time to make things personal and see if your hummers will eat out of your hand. And there's nothing else quite as heartwarming as hand-feeding hummingbirds. You’ll hear the buzz of their wings beating over 50 times a second, and feel the air disturbance, too. The best bit though? Having such a tiny creature place its trust in you.

Research shows that hummers remember their favorite feeders so, if your garden is full of regular visitors, you’re in with a good shot of achieving this summer dream. Hummingbirds are unlikely to hand-feed in spots they don’t consider regular sources of food, so you’ve already done most of the hard work. If you’ve also been feeding hummingbirds with nectar-rich flowers and helping them keep feathers clean with a floating solar fountain in a tub of water, they’ll be spending plenty of time in your yard and feeling pretty comfortable. They’ll also likely be accustomed to your presence.

Because hummingbirds can fly backwards – and they’re the only bird that can intentionally do so – they’re able to get themselves out of trouble, fast, which is why hummers are among the easiest birds to hand-feed. But there are a few critical secrets to get hummingbirds to feed from your hand.

(Image credit: Getty Images)1. Start With a Bigger Hand Feeder

You’ll make faster progress if you start with a bigger handheld feeder with two or three feeding ports such as this iBorn Mini Bird Feeder From Amazon. These are easier for birds to spot and hummers will gain confidence more quickly if two or three can feed together at the same time.

Once you’ve gained the hummingbirds’ trust, that's the time to move on to using smaller individual feeders such as these hand feeders from Walmart. You can either hold these flat in the palm of your hand, use the ring attachment, or wrap your finger and thumb around them to offer hummers a perch. Younger children often get on better with individual feeders with wrist straps such as this Hummingbird Wrist Feeder Set from Walmart. You can even buy hummingbird feeder hats – but begin with a big, basic handheld feeder.

2. Get Birds Used to You and the New Feeder

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Set up your handheld feeder close to, and preferably next to, the hanging feeder hummers visit most regularly. Handheld feeders with suction-cup holders such as these iBorn Window Hummingbird Feeders from Amazon make it easy to attach a feeder securely to a non-porous surface, which saves spills. Depending on the design of your main feeder, you may even be able to attach the handheld design directly to it.

Keep both feeders filled with nectar such as this dye-free hummingbird food from Walmart, or a homemade syrup of sugar and water. To keep food fresh, change every other day once temperatures top 27°C, and every day over 32°C.

At the same time, make sure you’re present in the garden often when hummingbirds are feeding. Experiment with moving closer to the birds, always stepping away if they startle. Rather than focusing on the birds, try walking past the feeder without looking at them, so they don’t feel threatened by your presence. Sit down near the main feeder, too, reading a book or listening to music with wireless earbuds so you don't focus on the birds.

3. Stay Still as a Tree

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Once birds have started using the small feeder as well as the hanging one, and they’re not startled by your presence, you can move on to the next step. Remove the main feeder to reduce options for the birds, hold the handheld feeder away from your face, and be patient.

Trying to stay entirely motionless will make you tense your muscles and you’ll inadvertently scare the birds away with your body language. Instead, think about staying as still as a tree. So, root yourself to the ground – which is much easier if you’re sitting in a chair with your arm or elbow anchored on a firm surface – and think about being still like a tree, making small, gentle movements but keeping your trunk in one spot.

4. Wear Red

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Even if it’s just a hat or some nail polish, wearing red will attract hummingbirds. Thanks to the filters in their eyes, hummers can see warm colors far more easily, and have learnt that bright red typically rewards with nectar, whether that’s from flowers or a feeder.

5. Feed Early and Late

Hummingbirds feed most actively early in the morning and late in the afternoon, so targeting your feeding time to coincide will speed up the process. Consistency helps, too. Hummingbirds have great memories so if they expect to see you by the feeder every morning, they’ll get used to you far more quickly.

6. Don’t Look Directly at the Feeder

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This is the biggest mistake people make when they're wondering how to hand feed hummingbirds, and the hardest step of all to achieve! All prey animals are acutely aware of being watched and will interpret a direct gaze as a potential threat and stay away. So, while you’re gaining the birds’ trust, try looking to the side of your hand, and you’ll enjoy far more success. If you can, resist the urge to look at the birds until they get more comfortable, and then try sliding your eyes sideways to look at them rather than moving your head to view them directly.

What Not to Do

• Don’t be tempted to touch or stroke the hummers. Even a tiny amount of the natural oils and sweat your fingers deposit on a bird’s feathers will destroy their capacity for insulation and waterproofing.
• Don’t move quickly. If birds are still feeding when you need to finish up, move slowly and smoothly to set the feeder down in its usual spot.
• Don’t forget to hang the main feeder back up again when you’re all finished.
• Don’t startle if a bird lands on your hand. While you’re unlikely to ever tame hummingbirds, they will quickly get used to you and start using your fingers as perches. Their tiny claws tickle rather than scratch and, as these birds only weigh a few grams, you’ll barely feel it.

Wearable Hummingbird Feeders

These feeders take handheld hummingbird feeders to a whole new level of garden fun!

Bird's-Eye view

Hummingbird Feeder Hat Clip

Poop-Proof

Hummingbird Feeder Helmet

Ringside seat

Hummingbird Flower Ring Feeder

Unless we live in an area that just so happens to have the perfect level of rain, our plants are going to need some watering from the tap on a regular basis. Without it they'll dehydrate, wither and feel incredibly worse for wear.

However, there are actually a lot of hidden chemicals within the water coming out of our taps, and as much as most plants won't be impacted by them the more delicate ones in our collection of greenery may suffer. Watering your garden shouldn't feel scary!

Whether you're just curious to learn more or you're hoping to help your plants out, you've come to the right place. I chatted with plant pros and a water filter specialist about the AQUA CREST Garden Hose Water Filter from Amazon to learn how it can improve tap water for plants to drink. It's such a simple addition to your life yet it can make such a difference.

What is the AQUA CREST Garden Hose Water Filter?

Aqua Crest Garden Hose Water Filter for Plants, NSF/ANSI Certified

The AQUA CREST filter is a garden hose attachment that fits onto the thread of a standard 3/4 inch garden hose to remove chemicals from tap water. It can remove up to 97.3% of chlorine present in the water as well as sediment and metals such as lead and mercury.

It's a great product because as much as it removes potentially harmful chemicals it's still able to preserve the naturally good elements that may be present in your tap water including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which assist the growth of plants.

You can purchase one filter for $18.99, a pack of two for $30, four for $41.99 or six for $54.99. They would make great gifts for gardeners in your life or would be an ideal purchase to split with a green-fingered neighbor.

What Can the Substances in Tap Water Do to Plants?

(Image credit: Kinga Krzeminska / Getty Images)

Chlorine and heavy metals in tap water vary depending on your local area, but chlorine is generally stronger in water than the ratio of metals.

According to Brian Campbell, Lead Water Nerd at Water Filter Guru: "While most plants are able to survive when exposed to chlorinated water, repeated exposures can affect sensitive seedlings, new transplantings and beneficial soil microorganisms that contribute to maintaining healthy soils."

By using a water filter like this the water coming out of your tap will more closely resemble rainwater, which is the water plants are naturally used to.

Brian also noted a benefit of removing heavy metals from tap water, sharing how they otherwise "tend to accumulate in soil over long periods of time." This can lead to the roots of your plants becoming stunted, leaf burn, soil microbe health being thrown off, and metals making their way into your edible crops.

What Else Can I Do With Watering To Help My Plants?

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

If you're looking for another simple way to bring healthier water to your plants, Chrissie Handley, a lawncare specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf, has a great suggestion - add a water butt (also called a rain barrel) into your garden! This way, you can collect rain water to replace or supplement any other watering done using water from your tap. This rain barrel from Amazon has a flat back so it fits snugly against the house while it collects water from your downspout.

She explained: "If you want untreated water for your plants, then your best bet is to go straight to source – invest in a water butt so you can naturally collect rainwater, rather than trying to make your tap water more suitable. The water will then be softer and free from additional chemicals – it also saves you water, so reduces your water bill and is great for times like this where there are hosepipe bans in place, as this bypasses this and means you have a backup reserve of water to use in periods of hot weather."

Brian also suggested doing what you can to "determine and understand what's actually in your tap water" as "water quality varies greatly depending on where you live". You can purchase tap water testing kits like the Bestprod Water Testing Strips from Amazon, and they will tell you the levels of chlorine and metals that your water contains.

A Note on Watering Lawns

Chrissie shared some specific insight on whether she believes a filter like this is necessary when watering a lawn as opposed to other plants in your yard.

Her overall answer was no, unless you're prone to getting the water on more delicate plants in the process of watering the rest of your yard.

Chrissie explained: "You don’t really need a filter like this for a lawn, typical grass types like perennial rye grass and fescue are pretty resilient to chlorine, so it won’t harm them. However if you have sensitive plants like spider plants, or peace lilies nearby, then it can stunt their growth or brown their leaves if they have high levels of chlorine in the soil, so it's then possibly a good investment to by a filter!"

Shop Water Filtration Supplies

120 strips

Bestprod All-New 21-in-1 Water Testing Kit Strips

This kit contains 120 strips to test your tap water for hardness, lead iron, chlorine and more.

100 strips & 2 Bacteria kits

Varify 17-in-1 Complete Drinking Water Test Kit

This water test kit contains testing strips as well as two separate kits to check for bacteria in your water.

On Sale Now

Craft911 Water Tester for Drinking Water

If your concern for your plants has left you worrying about whether your tap water is safe to drink, this simple device will tell you clearly whether your water is safe, poor or unsafe to consume.

Le Creuset Canada opened a new Signature Boutique today at West Vancouver’s The Village at Park Royal, marking the brand’s third location in B.C. and bringing its network of stand-alone Canadian stores to 13.

“As Le Creuset continues to grow across Canada, Park Royal stood out as the perfect home for our next Boutique,” said Sarin Keusseyan, managing director at Le Creuset Canada. “It’s vibrant, walkable village atmosphere aligns beautifully with our vision for an elevated, interactive retail experience. We’re thrilled to welcome West Vancouver shoppers into a space that celebrates our heritage of craftsmanship and colour.”

The new store follows a retail format the brand has used at its other Canadian locations, with open shelving and island-style displays allowing shoppers to browse cookware, bakeware, dinnerware and home accessories in a hands-on setting.

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Founded in Fresnoy-le-Grand, France, in 1925, Le Creuset is now globally renowned for its enamelled cast-iron cookware, particularly its signature Dutch ovens, and has since expanded into stoneware, stainless steel and kitchen accessories available in a wide range of colours.

The Park Royal opening builds on Le Creuset’s existing South Granville and Richmond boutiques and reflects a broader push by the cookware company to expand its direct-to-consumer retail presence across the country.

Le Creuset said in a press release that it is “proud to deepen its presence in British Columbia” with the new location and views the opening as a chance to reach home cooks, culinary enthusiasts and design-minded shoppers in the area.

The Le Creuset Signature Boutique is now open to the public at Unit B8, 940 Main Street, West Vancouver.

Find out more.

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WEN DT1516 Dethatcher

Power: Mains electric 15 amp, 3300 rpm

Effective width: 16-inches

Uses: Dethatching and scarifying

Positions: 5, from +1/4 inch to -1/2 inch depth

This WEN DT1516 Dethacher is a mains powered model which offers a power 15 amp setup to get a 3300 rpm drive. That means the 24 teeth, which span 16-inches, to give a wide cutting area for faster coverage of your lawn space.

Usefully this also has scarifying teeth, should you wish to change between the two as you need. That means control over sensitivity but also depth thanks to five positions ranging from plus a quarter inch to minus half an inch in depth. Plus there's a collection bag to make the job even easier.

Pros

• 2-in-1 design
• Main powered
• Wide 16-inch path

Cons

• Need mains power
• Not the cheapest

Sun Joe AJ801E Scarifier

Power: Mains electric 12 amp, 2990 rpm

Effective width: 13-inches

Uses: Dethatching and scarifying

Positions: 5

The Sun Joe AJ801E Scarifier offers a decent amount of power from the 12-amp motor than spins up to 2,990 rpm at full speed. This offers 20 slicing blades which run up to an effective working width of 13-inches making it ideal for smaller yard spaces as well as larger lawn areas.

This comes with a dethatching head also allowing you to work more gently with your lawn space as needed. There is also an 8-gallon collection bag to make quick work of not only pulling out but also clearing of the dead grass layer.

Pros

• Ideal for smaller spaces
• 2-in-one design
• Decent catch bag

Cons

• Lower speed than some
• Not ideal for larger lawns

Scarifying and dethatching can both provide excellent results in lawn health and appearance, but it's important to know the difference between each tool so that you don't cause more harm than good.

While they both essentially remove debris from the lawn, there are some key design and performance differences that can affect the impact that it has in your backyard. A common misconception is that the machines are large, heavy and bulky, but the process of scarifying and / or dethatching can easily be carried out at home whilst fixing patchy grass with more portable, maneuverable machines.

We've caught up with a few lawn care experts to help you determine which tool is best for the job. It may seem like a brutal task but, carried out correctly, a scarifier or dethatcher could yield greener, healthier grass when spring arrives.

What's the Difference?

Physically, a scarifier uses hooked spikes to scar the earth and pull up the thatch whereas a dethatcher uses thin straight spikes to pull out thatch without as much grass damage in the process.

We spoke to gardening expert Adam Woolcott about the differences between the two. "Dethatching is the gentler of the two processes removing moss, dead grass and weeds as well as other detritus from the lawn using metal tines, possibly down to but not below ground level," he explains.

"This opens the grass up to the air and light, allows the rain to penetrate and encourages fresh, healthy grass to grow back without the smothering effects of everything it was competing with previously."

The key difference comes down to the length of the spikes and the impact on your lawn: "Scarifying does the same as above but to a much greater extreme with blades that actually penetrate and cut into the soil leaving slits in the earth."

John Parker, general contractor and founder of Easy Pool Cleaning, adds that "scarifiers don't just remove the thatch; they dig deeper, taking out debris and aerating the soil."

"Dethatchers are milder and more focused," Parker explains. "They remove the thatch layer without delving too deep, leaving some thatch behind." Post-treatment, grass tends to recover faster after dethatching as compared to scarifying. Former Gardening Know How Senior eCommerce Manager Allie Kerkhoff always battled moss in her Pacific Northwest lawn until she used a dethatcher. Thirty minutes was all it took to clear her lawn of moss. Not too shabby!

(Image credit: Greenworks)Why Use Them?

Overtime, the lawn can build up a layer of thatch from dead grass and natural debris – a layer sitting between the grass top and the roots below. This can be useful as a way to help trap moisture and renew your soil by composting, but once this reaches more than half an inch it can start to suffocate the grass by cutting off nutrients and stopping water flow to the soil.

Sally Allsop, owner of gardening blog All That Grows, explains why you should use these tools to promote a healthier lawn.

"A scarifier is used to aerate a lawn. It's designed to help water, air and nutrients reach down to the root of the soil and cut through weeds," she explains. This is done using metal spikes that dig into the soil, reducing soil compaction and encouraging new grass growth.

A dethatcher, on the other hand, is the softer approach as it doesn't go below ground. "A dethatcher is used to remove thatch from the surface," Sally adds. It doesn't dig into the soil in the way that a scarifier would, but it helps to remove dead grass, roots, and other build-up on the surface of the soil.

Which is Best?

Whether you pick a scarifier or dethatcher largely depends on the state of your lawn. Dethatching is far more gentle for well established or young lawns, whereas a scarifier is great for a fresh start or for a deeply built up lawn that needs a tough touch.

If you already have a ride-on lawn mower then a pull-behind attachment is a great option. As scarifiers can be quite heavy duty, you may find there are more dethatcher options available, like this dethatcher attachment from Brinly-Hardy at the Home Depot.

Garden and landscaping expert Tom Su (and owner of Lawn Edging) explains when you should choose a dethatcher or scarifier. "Dethatchers are more about surface-level cleanup, removing that layer of organic debris. Scarifiers go deeper to relieve soil compaction and promote better grass root health."

He adds that "dethatching might be needed more often, especially if you have fast-growing grass types or use a lot of fertilizers. Scarifying can be more of an occasional treatment, depending on your lawn's needs."

As scarifying is a much more brutal process, it can be best to save it for when a lawn is in need of a major clean up. Unlike dethatching, it digs deep into the soil, taking out unwanted debris and aerating the soil. Dethatching may be best if your lawn needs a quicker, gentler revival.

FAQsWhen should you scarify a lawn?

In most parts of the US, scarifying in spring or early fall is generally recommended. Scarifying at other times of year may limit regrowth, leaving the lawn thin and patchy for a long period.

With that said, some experts argue that scarification shouldn’t be done at all, as it may harm the lawn more than it helps it. The scarification process inevitably does short-term damage to the lawn, and it may also decrease the lawn’s biodiversity. Think carefully about when to scarify your lawn – and if you go ahead, scarify at a time when the grasses will get a warm-weather window of time for regrowth, immediately after scarification.

When should you dethatch a lawn?

The best time of year to use a dethatcher will vary depending on your local climate. Basically, it’s better to dethatch at a mild or warm time of year when the grass can regrow quickly.

Another determiner is the type of grass: specifically, whether your lawn is made up of cool season grasses or warm season grasses. Cool season grasses are best dethatched during late summer or early fall, while warm season grasses should ideally be dethatched in late spring or summer.

Most expert sources agree that you should avoid using a dethatcher on your lawn outside of its growing season, or at times when the grass is stressed due to an issue such as excessive heat or dehydration.

How can I care for and maintain a scarifier?

Generally, the most important thing is to keep your scarifier clean. Soil, dirt and debris can build up on both the cutting tools and the anchor points, so it helps to use a damp cloth and a metal-safe cleaning solution, like this Resinate Green Cleaning Solution, to wipe down the cutting equipment. Any remaining dirt can be cleaned up with an elongated brush.

If yours is a gas model, it's worth checking your spark plug to make sure there are no difficulties when starting the engine. It's also important to check the oil level and remove any dried oil residue.

• TIME: 5 minutes
• RATING: Easy
• REWARD: Saves hours of weeding

Ornamental grasses bring a wonderful structure of golden stems that lasts all through winter and – less lovely – a mass of seedlings that I used to spend hours weeding out of borders every spring. I’m really not a fan of weeding, so I’ve come up with a novel solution that works a treat: using a $4 metal dog comb to give my grasses a groom in August. And this is a weekend win you simply can't afford to ignore if you want to reduce weeds in your garden, too.

Grooming ornamental grasses in late summer is a useful weed prevention step because it removes any seeds that aren’t firmly attached, and safely deposits them in a bucket. Most ornamental grasses produce an inordinate number of seeds and it’s estimated the most prolific varieties can produce up to a million seeds in one season. These tiny, lightweight seeds, typically held high in highly-branched plumes where they catch the breeze, are easily dispersed to self-seed all around a garden.

And don’t worry for a second that this five-minute gardening job will affect how beautiful your grasses look all through fall and winter. Any seedheads that are well-attached stay in place, and will be removed when you prune old stems in early spring.

The Best Comb For Grooming Ornamental Grasses

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I have many species of grasses growing in my low-maintenance garden and I’ve tried all sorts of different combs to find the most effective type. My tool of choice is a metal dog comb such as this $4 8-inch dog comb from Amazon. It's strong, and the end with closely-spaced teeth is great for grooming smaller grasses and those with super-fine blades like Stipa Tenuissima ‘Pony Tails’ (Mexican feather grass), while the less-dense tines work better for bigger grasses such as Stipa gigantea (golden oats).

How to Groom an Ornamental Grass in August

All you need to do is gently comb through the blades of grass from base to tip.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Any loose seedheads will be removed, and you'll be surprised how many come off with just a gentle groom. All those could have grown into weeds!

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Collect the excess seed in a bucket. As you’ll know all too well if you grow ornamental grasses, grass seed is resilient and quick and eager to grow, so be careful how you dispose of them. If you regularly turn your compost pile to accelerate decomposition, it may reach high enough temperatures to destroy seed viability, but I don’t like to take the risk so I put these garden groomings in my collected green waste bin.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Some ornamental grass blades can irritate and even cut skin so it’s a wise idea to wear gloves. I find nitrile gloves such as these $2 Expert Gardener Gardening Gloves from Walmart give good grip and dexterity as well as protection. And don’t make the same mistake I did last year and wear black jeans!

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Why it's Well Worth Doing

Not only does a quick grass-grooming save me hours of weeding, it also improves the look of these plants through late summer and fall. Many ornamental grasses are bred to flower profusely and, as these dry into seedheads, the stems can become a tangled, matted clump. This stops the plants from moving freely, which is one of the most attractive aspects of ornamental grasses at this time of the year. By removing some of the seedheads, you restore movement, and allow the beauty of individual stems to be appreciated.

If you’ve used ornamental grasses to plant a natural privacy screen, this separation of stems makes for a more effective, airy barrier to block nosy neighbours too.

Many ornamental grasses have been triggered by this summer's heatwave to flower and seed even more heavily than usual, as a survival response.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Taking five minutes to give your ornamental grasses a quick groom with a cheap metal dog comb in August is such an easy win, and will save you from having to pluck out thousands of germinated seeds come spring. Because no matter how fabulous a plant is, if it's growing where it's not wanted, it's a weed!

Add this quick task to your list of August gardening jobs, and it will save you hours of weeding too.

More Garden Weekend Wins

This August Weekend Win is part of a series of quick and easy gardening jobs to help you create a beautiful backyard with the minimum work. There's still time to do last weekend's win, trimming lavender in August so it has time to grow a duvet of dense foliage before winter.

Ever wondered which birth month biennial is yours? They are the forgotten stalwarts of the flower bed, but they truly truly tap into that idea that there are few things in gardening more satisfying than doing a little work now and knowing you'll be rewarded for it months later.

Sow biennials in late summer, give them time to establish, let them settle through winter and, when the timing is right, they'll come back ready to flower. It's a slightly unusual arrangement, true, especially for gardeners accustomed to instant gratification. Annuals give us all flowers in a matter of weeks; perennials promise to return year after year. Biennials? They occupy that wonderfully patient middle ground – they're here now, but they're really making plans for later.

Now, as I've become slightly obsessed with matching everything in nature to our personalities, this spoke to me. After all, we have birth month flowers, birth month trees, birth month birds and even birth month animals – and I've happily fallen down rabbit holes about birth month bugs, vines, groundcovers and all sorts of other wonderfully specific natural-world pairings. So why not birth month biennials?

All 12 Birth Month Biennials

Some biennials are flamboyant and impossible to ignore, sending towering flower spikes above the garden. Others are quiet and understated, spending their first season building roots and foliage before suddenly bursting into bloom. And some self-seed with wild enthusiasm, while others reward patience with an almost ridiculously beautiful display.

So, if you're planning what to sow this summer – or simply enjoy discovering what your birth month says about you – these are the biennials I'd pair with each month of the year. Just remember to check your local growing conditions and seed-packet instructions before you sow!

January – Foxglove

(Image credit: Oksana Schmidt / Shutterstock)

Foxgloves don't need to shout to make an impression; give these birth month biennials time and they eventually send tall flower spikes soaring above the border, each stem lined with spotted, bell-shaped blooms that seem almost too delicate for such a substantial plant.

That quiet determination is very January. After all, babes born in this month are often described as ambitious, independent and natural leaders – people who don't necessarily need constant attention to know where they're going. Foxglove has much the same energy, taking its time to patiently build itself up, before arriving the following year and making everyone look up.

Just remember that foxgloves are highly toxic if eaten, so they're best admired rather than sampled. Go for something like the Dalmatian Purple Foxglove from Walmart if you want vivid purple blooms.

Shop Foxgloves:

Nature Hills Nursery Lucas Pink Foxglove

The pretty pink hue of this foxglove looks so striking against a green backdrop.

RedCrocus Dalmatian White Foxglove

This one is great at attracting pollinators and adding a classic charm to gardens.

DIRECT GARDENING Candy Mountain Foxglove

This foxglove variety is a favorite among butterflies and other pollinators, and is a true beauty.

February – Dianthus

(Image credit: YasuJP / Getty Images)

Ah, dianthus! The showy flowers of this birth month biennial arrive in dense little clusters, often in wonderfully rich shades of pink, red, white and purple, with markings that make every bloom look slightly different from the next.

It feels ever so unique and creative, which suits the personality of imaginative and original-thinking February babies everywhere. After all, people born in this month rarely seem content with doing things exactly the way everyone else does them, right?

Dianthus has the same cheerful refusal to be boring – and, fortunately, you don't need to wait until next year to appreciate the reason gardeners have loved it for generations. Try something like the Firewitch Dianthus from Nature Hills for fringed petals with a spicy fragrance, stat!

March – Forget-Me-Not

(Image credit: Albert Fertl / Getty Images)

Some flowers seem to carry a story with them, and forget-me-nots are one of them. Their tiny blue flowers appear almost impossibly delicate, but once established they can create an enchanting haze of color through a spring garden.

The name alone gives away some of their personality. March-born people are often described as compassionate, intuitive and deeply imaginative, with a tendency to notice feelings and details that other people overlook. It makes sense, then, that their birth month biennial feels like the botanical equivalent of keeping an old photograph in a drawer because you simply can't bear to throw it away.

Quiet, sentimental and a little bit magical? Well worth the price of a packet of Forget Me Not Seeds from Amazon, I say!

April – Hollyhock

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

If there is one thing hollyhocks have never learned, it's how to be subtle. These birth month biennials can tower above a garden, covering their tall stems with enormous flowers in shades of pink, red, yellow, white and purple. Plant one against a fence or wall and suddenly you have a floral skyscraper... and, honestly, April couldn't have asked for a better match.

HOME GROWN Hollyhock Summer Carnival Mix Flower Seeds

The most sunshine-coded hollyhock hues ever? I think so!

Bold, energetic, brave and charismatic, April babies aren't exactly built for blending into the background. Hollyhocks aren't either. Remember that when you plant them, OK? They deserve the spotlight!

May – Canterbury Bells

(Image credit: Topaz777 / Getty Images)

Canterbury bells have an old-fashioned charm that I never seem to get tired of. Their cup-shaped flowers rise above the foliage in clusters, creating that quintessential cottage garden look with ease.

They're cheerful, dependable and surprisingly versatile – the kind of flower that works almost anywhere you put it. And that makes them the ideal birth month biennial for May, quite frankly! Because when something needs doing, a happy-go-lucky May baby is usually already halfway through it.

Celebrate the May-borns in your life, then, with a packet of Canterbury Bells Double Mix from Amazon.

June – Honesty

(Image credit: Emine Kamaci / Shutterstock)

Also known as lunaria and money plants, honesty is one of those plants that makes you look twice – for good reason! First come the pretty flowers, usually in shades of purple, pink or white. Then the seed pods appear as translucent discs that catch the light and almost look like little silver coins hanging from the stems.

And just like that, this birth month biennial makes itself a perfect match for the endlessly charming, witty and open-minded people born in June – all of whom seem to have an absolute gift for communication.

A plant that gives you one beautiful display and then reveals an entirely different one once the flowers are gone? Whatever month you're born in, bag yourself some Money Plant Lunaria Seeds from Burpee(the seed pods are arguably the best part).

July – Evening Primrose

(Image credit: Taesam Do/Getty Images)

There is something wonderfully romantic about a flower that saves its best performance for the evening, right? And evening primrose does just that, opening its yellow blooms toward the end of the day, when many other flowers are beginning to close up for the night.

It's a small reminder that not every beautiful thing needs to happen in broad daylight, and that makes this birth month biennial feel particularly suited to July personalities.

Caring, empathetic and deeply protective, July-born people are often the ones who notice when somebody needs a little extra attention. Like evening primrose, their appeal isn't necessarily loud or immediate. Give them time and you'll see it (especially if you plant something like the Fireworks Evening Primrose from Nature Hills!).

August – Black-Eyed Susan

(Image credit: Herman Bresser / Getty Images)

If August were a flower, I'd struggle to think of anything more cheerful than a black-eyed Susan, as they are basically sunshine with roots!

Honestly, those golden-yellow petals surrounding dark centers have an almost ridiculous ability to make a garden look happier. They're also wonderfully hardworking, flowering through summer while attracting bees, butterflies and other pollinators.

August personalities have a similar warmth to their birth month biennials. Confident and ambitious but also generous, they're the people who bring energy into a room and somehow convince everyone else to have a good time too. All hail those lovely summer babies!

Shop Black-Eyed Susans:

Nature Hills Nursery Prairie Glow Black - Eyed Susan

Unlike your typical Black-Eyed Susan, Prairie Glow is a showy hybrid that sports airy, branching stems and masses of smaller daisy-like flowers.

Nature Hills Nursery Little Suzy Black - Eyed Susan

These natural dwarfs are prolific bloomers, with showy display starts in mid-summer and lasting well into fall.

Nature Hills Nursery Glitters Like Gold Black - Eyed Susan

The Glitters Like Gold Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia x 'Glitters Like Gold') boasts large, radiant ray-petalled blooms with raised chocolate brown centers!

September – Caraway

(Image credit: Iker Zabaleta/Getty Images)

Caraway isn't the obvious choice for a birth month biennial, true, but hat's precisely why I like it. This herb spends its first year quietly building a rosette of foliage before sending up delicate flower heads in its second.

It is pretty in a very understated way, true, but it is also useful – and once you know what those seeds can do in the kitchen, its charm becomes much easier to appreciate. And all of this ties in well to the meticulous and oh-so-ambitious nature of September personalities, who are rarely interested in doing something simply for show. They want it done properly (and, ideally, they want to know exactly how it works too).

Time to buy some Caraway Herb Seeds from Isla’s Garden Seeds, I say!

October – Stock

(Image credit: Hana Richterova/Getty Images)

Stock might just be one of the most underrated flowers for anyone who loves fragrance. Because, sure, its blooms can be beautifully ruffled and romantic, but it's the scent that really makes it memorable.

Plant it somewhere you pass regularly and you'll find yourself stopping simply because the air smells so good. And that easy charm feels very October (and I should know, folks; this is my month!).

Yes, balanced, diplomatic and naturally friendly, October babies are said to have a way of making people feel comfortable around them. Stock doesn't demand your attention either; it simply gives you another reason to stop and linger. Try something like Evening (Night) Scented Stock Seeds by Matthiola Bicornis, then, and you are in for a treat.

November – Wallflower

(Image credit: Verra Widhi / Shutterstock)

The clue is in the name with this birth month biennial! Sure, wallflowers have a reputation for growing in the cracks and crevices where you might not expect much to thrive, producing beautifully fragrant flowers despite their rather unassuming appearance.

They're also a lot more interesting than they first appear. And, while November personalities are often described as passionate, determined and strong-willed, there's usually a private side to them, too. Wallflower feels like the perfect match – a plant that doesn't necessarily reveal everything at first glance, but rewards you handsomely with that magnificent scent once you take a closer look.

Go for something like these Siberian Wallflower Seeds if you want beautiful cut flowers.

December – Sweet Rocket

(Image credit: Francesca Leslie/Getty Images)

Sweet rocket asks for a leap of faith; sow it one summer and, for months, it seems content to do very little at all. Then the following year it erupts into fragrant spires of lavender, white or pink flowers that perfume the evening air and draw in bees and butterflies by the dozen.

That delayed reward? Well, it means it feels a wonderfully fitting birth month biennial for the generous and optimistic souls born in December. After all, they have a knack for looking ahead rather than dwelling on what's already behind them. Sweet rocket is a gentle reminder that not every reward arrives straight away – and that some of the most beautiful things in the garden are those that make you wait.

Bag yourself some Sweet Rocket Seeds from the Tomorrow Seeds Store, then, and plant yourself a treat to discover in years to come.

Andrews McMeel Publishing Floriography: an Illustrated Guide to the Victorian Language of Flowers

Floriography is artist and illustrator Jessica Roux’s full-color guide to the historical uses and secret meanings behind an impressive array of flowers and herbs.

I know that biennials get a bad rep, largely because you sow them now without getting an immediate payoff. All that patience, though? It more than pays off when they finally reveal what they've been working toward all along... and reward our patience in a very big way!

And if you're sowing this August, there's an even better reason to plant your birth month biennial; doing so means that the garden you're planning for next year has already begun. What could be better?

There’s a fruit tree in my backyard that is rapidly becoming my nemesis. When I first clapped eyes on my Oullins greengage, I believed it was love at first sight. Bewitched by the idea of soft, sweet plummy goodness, I nurtured my tree through the first few weeks with a combination of pelleted chicken poop, arborist wood chips, and wishful thinking. And at first, things seemed great, and my valiant little stone fruit leafed up a treat…

Until the unthinkable happened: the leaves started dropping off. And they kept dropping, no matter what I did. In the last few months, I’ve tried all sorts, from iron chelate to country music (hey, sometimes it works). I’ve amassed quite the arsenal of plant treatments in my journey as a tree parent, trying to nurture my grouchy greengage back from the brink. But it’s gone from a leafy bright young thing into a petulant teenager with just the two wonky tree arms bothering to do anything useful. It actually looks like it’s raising those arms in the air now and asking “why bother?”

You’re probably wondering why I’m talking about a fruit tree that is struggling despite being lavished with an embarrassing amount of attention. Well, it’s because I genuinely feel the pain of the frustrated fruit-grower. And sometimes (as much as I love gardening) I really do crave an easier fruiting win. Just a bit. I’m still learning as I go, but one thing I do know is this: it’s important to have trees that don’t keep throwing a tizzy, because… well, we all deserve some easy fruit in our lives. Fancy seeing my pick of the effortless fruiting heroes that just get on with it and don’t act like stroppy teenagers? Read on, friends…

Planting Trees that Thrive on Neglect

Fruit trees that thrive on neglect might sound like an urban myth. It’s true that the most easy-going plant buddies will be better company if you give them a little encouragement here and there. But this resilient selection really can make the best of things, even in modest growing spaces, from teensy balconies to crowded container gardens. The important thing is that before you pick your fruit tree, you take a moment to assess your potential planting spot. Most thrive across broad USDA hardiness zones (6-10), if you match their basic needs for sunlight and drainage. Most require at least 6 hours of sun, and fast-draining soil is a must.

A little prep goes a long way toward giving your young tree a stress-free start, especially if you are planting in late summer. Whether you’re working with lean garden soil or a large pot, it’s wise to add some rich, crumbly compost. I also like to add a sprinkle of biochar to the base before planting, to help improve water retention where the roots will need it most. I’m a fan of Rosy Soil Biochar Booster, available from Amazon, to give that gentle lift to young roots ahead of winter and improve aeration in a friendly, organic way. But don’t worry, there isn’t much more necessary to treating your planting site.

(Image credit: Alexander Knyazhinsky / Shutterstock)

If you’re planting in late summer or early fall, opt for container-grown trees. Bare-root plants can scorch in late-summer heat, while containerized plants are more forgiving. In fact, potted trees offer a bonus: during extreme heatwaves, you can tuck your newly potted tree into partial shade on a covered porch for a bit to avoid transplant shock, before sliding it into its permanent spot. To make the transition smooth, dig your hole or fill your pot in a cooler evening moment, soaking the root zone after planting to remove air pockets.

Once your tree is planted, treat Year 1 as settling in. Yes, I am urging you to manage your expectations a tad, but it’s important. While mature trees are fine with missed waterings and droughts, young roots need moisture for their first few months. Water deeply every few days, when the top couple of inches (5cm) of soil feel dry, and topdress the base with a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) layer of organic wood mulch (keeping it a couple of inches away from the trunk). Once autumn rains arrive and those roots lock into place, you can step back, put your feet up, and let nature do the heavy lifting with these 6 gorgeous fruity superstars below…

1. Jujube

(Image credit: Andrii Zorii / Getty Images)

The jujube (Ziziphus jujuba), also known as the Chinese date tree, is the ultimate hero for hands-off fruit growers. Capable of reaching 15-20 feet (4.5-6m) at maturity, it can be kept in a large 15-20-gallon container, with a bit of casual late-winter shaping to naturally twisted branches that add year-round character to patios or south-facing fences. Happy in summer heat, freezing winters, and poor soils, jujubes thrive in zones 6-10. They are also self-fertile, so a single tree will yield a prolific crop of sweet, apple-like crispy fruits that dry into rich, date-like treats in late summer. And you don't have to wait ages for that first date. Grafted young jujubes are gleefully precocious, often yielding their first crop 1-2 years after planting.

Just tuck your jujube into the hottest, sunniest corner of your yard and make sure the soil has good drainage. This tree craves warmth and full sun (at least 6 hours daily) to turn raw sunlight into sugary fruit. Over-caring is honestly the only real threat to this tough cookie. In the first year, water deeply once a week, and snip away any dead, damaged, or crossing branches in late winter, along with any stray suckers. And that’s it! If you’re the patient sort, you can pick up very reasonable nursery pot with MicroStarts Jujube Trees from Walmart.

Make a Date MicroStarts MicroStarts Jujube Double Tree Starts (GA-866)

2. Dwarf Mulberry

(Image credit: Naveed Hussain / Alamy)

If you love the sweet, intense flavor of dark berries but don’t have space for a big beast, dwarf mulberries (Morus alba or M. nigra cultivars) are yummy little fruit machines. Growing to 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4m) tall, these niblets form a dense, ornamental bush or small standard tree. They are fast-growers that thrive in zones 5-10, they are self-fertile, and they will treat you to a continuous crop of tangy blackberry-like fruits through summer – often within their first year. Choose 'Dwarf Everbearing' or 'Mojo Berry' tiny trees that give huge yields. You can buy Everbearing Mulberries from Fast Growing Trees in a variety of sizes, currently for 20-30% off. You can also get Plant Nook Dwarf Mulberry Starter Plants from Walmart.

Dwarf mulberries fit right into urban balconies, small yards, and tight patio setups, and they are easy to tuck into sunny nooks or alongside pots of mint and strawberries. Give them a decent amount of full sun or partial shade, since the more sun they get, the sweeter and juicier those nummy fruits will be. After the first few weeks of watering, mulberries are seriously low-maintenance. Pruning is as simple as it gets: because they fruit on new growth, a quick snip in late winter to remove deadwood or curb height is all it takes.

Little Snack Machine Fast-Growing-Trees.com Everbearing Mulberry Tree

3. Persimmon

(Image credit: Volff / Alamy)

For a vibrant fall fruiting tree with cinnamon-sweet crops, the persimmon (Diospyros kaki or D. virginiana) is a genuine pleasure. It can reach 10-15 feet (3-4.5m) tall at maturity, but is easily kept at 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4m) in containers. And as fall rolls round, those glossy green leaves flush up with rich vibrant tones that signpost the treats to come. As the tree sheds its leafy load, bright tomato-sized fruits hang like little dreamy lanterns, creating a lush specimen through early winter. Persimmons are virtually immune to pests and blessedly disease-resistant. Thriving in zones 6-10, most cultivars are self-fertile. And while grafted trees require a little patience, that first glowing harvest should come 2-3 years after planting.

Pop your persimmon tree in full sun for honey-sweet fruits. They prefer well-draining, slightly acidic-neutral soil, but are delightfully forgiving once established. During the first summer, water deeply once a week. Because persimmons fruit on current season's growth, heavy pruning isn't necessary and can actually reduce your yield, making them a dream for hands-off gardeners. A lot of persimmons online are sold as seedlings, but you can buy 2-foot (60cm) Tazgo Persimmon Plants from Walmart. If you’re willing to pay a little more for a bigger tree, you can get LA Tropic Persimmon Trees from Amazon as 3-feet (90cm) specimens.

Fruity Fall Feast TAZGO Sweet Persimmon Tree Starts (2)

4. Fig

(Image credit: SabbirDigitall / Shutterstock)

Ah, figgy goodness. I have two separate little Brown Turkey fig trees (Ficus carica) in my backyard now and they are both thriving, even in my teensy green kingdom. Few pleasures compare with the squidgy anticipation that comes when cupping that first silky, tear-shaped treat of the season (and all the others after that). Reaching 8-10 feet (2.4-3m) in the ground, or a cozy 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8m) in a pot, this Mediterranean gem throws out epic masses of lobed leaves that I love almost as much as the fruit (almost). You can currently get 20% off Plants That Work Brown Turkey Fig Trees from Nature Hills.

Figs are tailor-made for container living, preferring their roots to be slightly restricted for maximum fruit. Place in the sunniest spot you can find, like a south-facing wall or open balcony. They’re golden with poor soils and missed waterings. In fact, giving them too much love with rich fertilizer can backfire, causing a flush of leaves instead of fruit. Young potted figs are delightfully quick to reward you, often producing their first squidgy treats 1-2 years after planting. Keeping them going is almost too easy. Simply snip away deadwood or pinch back main growing tips in late spring to encourage branching.

Patio Powerhouse Plants That Work Brown Turkey Fig Tree

5. Pomegranate

(Image credit: Cavan Images / Getty Images)

Just because you’re after easy homegrown wins, that doesn’t mean you have to deprive yourself of flamboyant fruity character. Pomegranates (Punica granatum) add a splash of exotic luxury to your outdoor space. These darlings of the superfruit tribe are naturally bushy and multi–stemmed. While some forms can reach 12 feet (3.6m) at maturity, you can also keep one thriving as a potted 5-foot (1.5m) dwarf specimen for a real wowser. And what a treat it can be to see those fiery blooms in late spring and early summer, before fall rewards you with a flush of shiny globes, stuffed full of juicy, jewel-shiny antioxidants.

Pomegranates have epic drought tolerance and heat resistance in zones 7-11, and they are eager to please, typically yielding their first fruits 2-3 years after planting. Just give them 6-8 hours of sunlight daily to help them develop those ruby colors and rich sugars. Pommies can handle lean, sandy, or alkaline soils with ease. During their first summer, just water deeply once or twice a week and remove low suckers to maintain a clean shape. Ultra-compact ‘Nana’ is great for patio containers, but if you want a cold-hardy pom to stand up to a nippy winter, then buy Russian Red Pomegranate Trees from Fast Growing Trees.

Stunning Superfruit Fast-Growing-Trees.com Cold-Hardy Russian Red Pomegranate Tree

6. Loquat

(Image credit: Sherly348 / 500px / Getty Images)

For a tropical fruit tree that stays lush year round, the lovely loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) is a knockout. Because it’s a broadleaf evergreen, those massive, leathery leaves double brilliantly as a year-round privacy screen. Reaching 10-15 feet (3-4.5m) in the ground, or 6-8 feet in a large container, it flips the typical fruiting schedule on its head. Delicate white flowers bloom in late autumn and winter, paving the way for clusters of dainty apricot-orange fruits you can harvest in late spring when nothing else is fruiting. And if that wasn’t enough to convince you, they taste like fragrant peaches. And you get absolutely loads of them.

Thriving in zones 7-11, loquats are virtually pest-free, handle heat with ease, and are self-fertile. Grafted young trees are fast growers, often delivering their first fruit clusters inside a couple of years. Perfect in a sun-drenched yard or urban patio, they cope beautifully in full sun or part shade, and tolerate a range of soil types, as long as drainage is good. Just water frequently in the first summer. Simply snip off dead branches right after harvesting, or tip-prune for a bushier shape. You can buy a Flora’s Market Store Loquat Fruiting Tree from Amazon, which comes with its own planting mix and guide, making it great for beginners.

Unique Evergreen Flora's Market Loquat Tree Large Fruiting Tree, Includes Planting Kit

(Image credit: Bmanzurova / Getty Images)

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