Organic Gardening News

Not simply a place to sit, sofas are for morning coffee, Sunday papers, movie nights, friends dropping in and those magic evenings when staying in feels like the best plan.

For Fall/Winter 2026, top designers are releasing sofas that feel generous without becoming cumbersome, sculptural but not precious and individual without shouting for attention.

Comfort is back, but it’s grown up.

Softer, deeper and more inviting

Toronto designer Paolo Ferrari sees a move toward furniture with more physical generosity, but not visual heaviness.

“Sofas are becoming lower, deeper and more enveloping, while their external silhouette remains quite controlled,” he says.

That balance is captured in Ferrari’s MC72 for Poltrona Frau, a low, sweeping sofa inspired conceptually by the aerodynamic language of the Macchi M. C. 72 seaplane.

Ferrari describes the collection as an exploration of “precision, movement and comfort,” with a streamlined form that feels at once grounded and light.

His palette for the season is equally warm and enveloping.

“I’m drawn to warm, mineral and earthy tones, or materials that have depth of colour. Deep browns, oxbloods, tobacco, butter creams.”

More than colour alone, Ferrari is interested in upholstery that changes how a sofa is experienced.

“The material should reinforce the form,” he says.

Comfort with a little personality

At Vancouver design studio Marrimor, the Notch sofa takes another approach to comfort: sleek, playful and deliberately unexpected.

“There’s this idea that more is more comfortable, especially right now. We think it’s a real sign of the times that everyone really wants to sink in and get comfortable,” says Marrimor designer Lauren Bugliarisi, who designs alongside Tanja Breadner.

The studio began by playing with a clean silhouette, enlarging its proportions and then quite literally cutting pieces away.

“We even highlighted those really intentional gaps and notches with piping to challenge typical expectations and draw attention to the subversion,” she says.

The surprise comes when people actually sit down, says Bugliarisi.

“Even with the sleek frame and contrarian details, it just sits so well and people really melt into it!”

She is also seeing the return of what might be called the personality sofa — a piece that establishes the mood of the room rather than quietly disappearing into it.

“We are excited to see the return of a statement sofa, with new understandings of personal tailoring.”

Among the pieces catching Marrimor’s attention beyond its own collection is Faye Toogood’s Butter sofa for Tacchini.

“The first time we saw it presented in person we looked at one another and said ‘I need to crawl into that sofa immediately’,” says Bugliarisi.

The sofa that changes with you

Flexibility is another important idea this season.

Designer Yves Béhar developed his Peaks modular sofa for Moooi around play and adaptability, allowing the arrangement to shift according to how a space is being used.

Peaks can move between lounging, movie seating and a flat platform, with indoor and outdoor configurations possible.

“It gives sunken living room vibes, but expands the possibilities to so many different uses,” says Béhar.

He is also noticing a refinement in sofa proportions:

“Large scale and plenty of depth is still important, but less of the pachydermic look and more elegant and refined lines.”

Buy for your life, not the trend

Perhaps the strongest theme running through all these designers is longevity.

At Australian furniture company King Living, Head of Design Chris Cooke points to the Jasper sofa, introduced in 2003 and still the company’s bestseller.

“Its staying power comes from a combination that’s difficult to get right: a distinctive architectural form, genuine everyday comfort and the ability to make the sofa your own.”

King’s new Delta sofa takes a similarly long view. Its softer, curved silhouette can work alongside earlier Delta pieces rather than forcing owners to start again.

“We don’t design a sofa around a seasonal look. Proportion, material, comfort and function all need to hold their own long after autumn or winter has passed,” says Cooke.

That may be the best advice for anyone sofa shopping this fall.

Ferrari says scale and the architecture of the room should come first. Bugliarisi warns against choosing a sofa in isolation: “We always say, ‘the composition should sing’ — so don’t shop for a sofa in a vacuum!”

“I hope people are considering uniqueness and the right fit for their lives rather than matching trends,” says Béhar.

Related

• Vancouver always the plan for IDS Prototype Judges Choice winner Rupert Jasper
• Sundays’ collaboration with Sophie Burke pairs natural materials, quiet forms

Canned beans, tomatoes, and soup move through plenty of kitchens at a steady clip, and the empties usually get a quick rinse before they go out with the recycling. At that point, old tin cans still have plenty of life left. They’re stiff, hold soil and water without leaking, and cost nothing after being discarded.

Cans make for one of the easiest garden recycling projects, and the basic projects need nothing fancier than a hammer, a nail, and a can opener. One can might hold a pepper seedling in March, then lose its bottom at transplant time and slip right back over that same plant as a cutworm collar. That’s a lot of mileage out of something headed for the curb.

I start my stash in fall. Soup and chili season brings in a steady supply, and a box of clean cans in the shed will be ready when seed starting rolls around in late winter. Some can go to work right away, too – as lanterns on chilly evenings or as a winter home for hollow stems cut back during fall cleanup.

Prep Every Can Before It Goes Outside

Clean cans first. Hot, soapy water and a bottle brush get the food out, and a soak loosens the label and glue. The edges are the real hazard. If you’ve got a smooth-edge can opener, like this Oxo Good Grips one on Amazon, use it, since it cuts through the side seam and leaves a dull lip. Regular openers leave a sharp ring. Pinch any jagged bits flat with pliers or take a file to them, and wear gloves for this part.

Won’t they rust? They will, eventually. On most cans, the “tin” is only a thin coating over steel, and rain and wet soil wear through it over time. That takes a while, and a can with a few orange spots still holds soil and water just fine for seasonal jobs. I paint the outside of any can that’ll sit out for a long stretch, and punch drainage holes so water doesn’t sit in the bottom. A can too far gone can usually still go in with the metal recycling.

Without further ado, in this latest installment of our Dirt Cheap Gardening series, here are my eight favorite ways to upcycle tin cans.

1. Start Seeds Without Buying Pots

(Image credit: Future)

Thin plastic cell packs can split or tip over, but a tin can is heavier and less likely to get knocked around. You can use cans to start seeds or root cuttings. Turn one upside down on a scrap board and tap a nail through the bottom in several spots to make drainage holes – a basic 16-ounce claw hammer, like this Irwin one from Amazon, is plenty for the job.

Fill your tin can pots with a light, sterile seed-starting mix, such as Espoma Organic Seed Starter from Walmart, instead of garden soil. Metal doesn’t breathe like terracotta, so feel the mix before you water. When it’s time to transplant, cut the bottom out with the can opener and push the root ball up and out.

2. Use Tin Cans as Pest Deterrents

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A tin can can help protect seedlings from a few garden pests, although it won’t keep them all away. Burying a can around a young plant may make it harder for slugs to reach, but they may still climb over it, so don’t rely on it as a dependable barrier.

Where a can collar is more useful is against cutworms. These caterpillars hide in the soil by day and chew through young stems at ground level after dark. Cut a can open at both ends, slip it over the seedling, and press it 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) into the soil, leaving a couple of inches above ground. Put it in place when you plant, while the seedling is most vulnerable.

You can also hang cans near vulnerable plants as a makeshift bird scare. Moving, clattering cans may startle birds, but the effect can wear off as they get used to them, so treat it as a short-term deterrent. Perhaps try alternating tin cans with a predator decoy, like the Dalen Lifelike Great Horned Owl Decoy Bird Repellent on Amazon.

3. Keep Things Organized

(Image credit: SIL/Amazon)

My potting benches end up buried under twine, plant labels, and hand tools. A few cans fix that for free. Drop a ball of garden twine (like this PerkHomy green jute twine from Amazon) into one can, and it won’t roll off the bench anymore. Put labels and pencils in the next can, and pruners and a trowel in the one after that. Mark each one with a weatherproof Garden Marker pen (on Amazon) so you don’t have to guess later. Nail them to the shed wall through the back.

4. Use it as a Compost or Fertilizer Scoop

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bare hands make a mess of granular fertilizer, bone meal, and compost, and a clean can scoops them out without bending or cracking the way a plastic cup might. Make it do double duty. Pour a measured cup of water in, scratch a line at the waterline with a nail, and you’ve got a rough measuring cup for any rates listed in cups. Keep a second can just for compost.

Fertilizer residue can speed up rust, so knock the scoop clean after each use, store it dry, and never bring it back into the kitchen.

5. Create a Mini Herb Planter

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Thyme, chives, and oregano stay compact enough to grow in a can on a sunny windowsill or balcony rail. Get the drainage holes in first, then paint the outside. Home Depot stocks Rust-Oleum Stops Rust spray paint in gloss white, and white is the better pick for a patio since dark cans heat up fast in full sun.

Skip painting the inside, and let the paint cure before you plant. This time of year, aim for a south- or west-facing window. In summer, a can on a hot patio can dry out quickly.

6. Make DIY Lanterns for Fall Evenings

(Image credit: Future)

Punched-tin lanterns throw speckled light across a patio table, and they’re a nice touch now that it gets dark earlier. Freeze a can full of water first. The ice keeps the walls from denting while you tap a nail through them in dots, swirls or stars. Once it thaws, dry it and paint it if you like, then drop in a battery-operated LED tea light, which you can get from Walmart in a pack of 12. An LED carries far less fire risk than a candle if wind tips a lantern into dry leaves. Thread wire through two holes near the rim to hang it.

7. Build a Bug Hotel for Solitary Bees

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Many native bees are solitary and nest alone in narrow tunnels rather than hives. A tall can filled with hollow stems gives them just that. Fall cleanup supplies the material. Bamboo, reeds, and the hollow or pithy stems of sunflowers, sumac, or raspberries all work in mixed widths. Cut them a little shorter than the can so the rim shelters the openings, keep a closed node at the back when possible, and pack them in tight. Keep the bundle dry over winter.

Around the last spring frost, mount the can on its side about 5 feet (1.5 m) up, facing southeast. Replace the stems every one to three years to keep mites and fungal disease from building up.

8. Make Plant Labels

The other ideas on this list use the cans, but this one makes use of the lids by turning them into plant labels. Flatten each lid carefully, then write the plant name on it with a permanent marker. You can attach it to a wooden stick or tie it to a plant support with garden twine. The metal stands up to rain better than paper labels, and you’re giving a useful second life to something that might otherwise go in the recycling. Be careful handling the edges, which can be sharp.

Clean cans don’t take up much room on a shed shelf, and they keep a lot of little purchases off the shopping list. Start a stack this fall, and by seed-starting season there’ll be one ready for nearly every job!

Decorating for the holidays doesn't always have to mean a towering evergreen, baubles in every colour and tinsel from floor to ceiling. Sometimes, the simplest ideas make the biggest impact, and Michelle Obama's understated twig tree look is well and truly proof of this!

There is something magical about using natural shapes and soft lighting to create an elegant display, isn't there? And, while a Christmas tree is very much an 'only for December' kind of vibe, the Obamas' approach of using illuminated branches offers a more pared-back alternative, with a gentle glow that can work well beyond the festive season.

It's a look that feels particularly suited to anyone who prefers a more minimalist Christmas, or who wants to introduce a little seasonal magic without buying another large decoration that will spend most of the year in storage. Check it out if you don't believe me:

A post shared by Michelle Obama (@michelleobama)

A photo posted by

Love it? The good news is that you don't necessarily need to buy a ready-made twig tree to achieve a similar effect. In fact, with a few suitable branches from your garden, a sturdy vase and a string of delicate LED fairy lights, you can create your own version of Michelle Obama's holiday display for a fraction of the cost.

It's a lovely way to make use of branches left over from routine pruning, giving them a second life as part of your Christmas decorating. And, brilliantly, it's one of the simplest DIY projects going! All you have to do is choose branches with interesting shapes, arrange them so they form a loose, tree-like silhouette, and add lights sparingly enough that the natural structure remains the star of the show.

How To Make Michelle Obama's Twig Tree

You don't need specialist crafting skills to recreate Michelle Obama's holiday look. The most important things are choosing branches with an appealing shape and making sure your finished arrangement is stable.

What You'll Need

• A selection of sturdy garden branches or suitable fallen twigs
• A pair of sharp, clean secateurs
• A heavy-based vase, planter or decorative container
• Small stones or pebbles to help secure the branches
• A set of warm-white LED fairy lights
• Optional: a few lightweight decorations or ribbons

FELCO Felco F2 Pruning Shears

Signature Design by Ashley Rustic Ceramic Vase

KAQ Kaq Connectable 240led 88ft String Lights, Christmas Lights Indoor Outdoor | Clear Wire Twinkle Fairy Lights Plug In, 13 Modes, Timer, Waterproof Christmas Trees Lights for Bedroom, Patio Warm White

Whether you leave the finished display unadorned or add a handful of small ornaments, this easy DIY is a beautiful way to bring the outdoors in for the holidays.

With that in mind, then, let's get our Michelle Obama on...

1. Choose Your Branches

(Image credit: La Huertina De Toni / Shutterstock)

Start by looking for branches with plenty of natural character. A mixture of upright stems and smaller offshoots will give your display a fuller (aka more tree-like) shape, while branches with interesting curves can add a sculptural quality.

You can use fallen branches or suitable cuttings from routine garden pruning. If cutting from a living shrub or tree, make sure you're pruning at an appropriate time and in a way that won't damage the plant. Avoid brittle, rotten or diseased wood, and check branches for insects before bringing them indoors.

2. Arrange Them In A Sturdy Container

Choose a vase or planter with a wide and heavy base to help prevent your tree from tipping over. Position the tallest branches towards the centre and arrange the shorter ones around them, allowing the natural shapes to spread out.

Add small stones or pebbles around the base of the branches to help hold them in place. And take care to step back occasionally to check the overall silhouette, adjusting the stems until the arrangement feels balanced without looking too uniform.

3. Add Your Fairy Lights

This is where the magic happens. Wrap your LED fairy lights loosely around the branches, starting near the base and working towards the outer stems. Try to distribute the lights evenly, rather than clustering them in one area.

Warm white lights will give the arrangement a soft, inviting glow, while a more delicate micro-LED string can create a subtle, almost starry effect. Battery-operated lights can also be useful if you want to position your display somewhere without a nearby socket.

Shop Fairy Lights For Your DIY Twig Tree:

yietNL Fairy Lights Plug

YOEEN 24 Pack Fairy Lights Battery Operated Lights

Ariceleo Starry Fairy Lights

The trick to nailing that MIchelle Obama look is to make sure you pick some with a flexible wire that is easy to wind around smaller branches. Take care, too, to check that the length is sufficient for the size of your arrangement.

A timer function is a useful extra if you'd like your tree to illuminate automatically in the evenings.

4. Keep Decor Simple

One of the best things about Michelle Obama's holiday display is that it doesn't need much embellishment; you can leave the branches bare apart from the lights for a minimalist finish, or add a few small ornaments if you prefer something more traditionally festive.

A restrained palette of white, silver or muted gold will complement the natural wood without making the display feel too busy. Alternatively, a simple velvet ribbon tied around the vase can introduce a little texture without distracting from the branches.

5, Find The Perfect Spot

Once your arrangement is finished, place it somewhere it can be appreciated after dark, and take care to position it on a level surface, away from candles, fireplaces and other sources of heat.

The beauty of this Michelle Obama-inspired DIY is that it doesn't have to disappear as soon as Christmas is over. If you keep the decorations minimal, your illuminated branches can continue to bring a soft glow to your home throughout the winter – and beyond.

Winter’s short, dark days don’t give us much time to enjoy our gardens, but planting a sweetly scented winter-flowering shrub in your front yard will deliver a plant-based mood boost every time you return home. Fall is the perfect time to add one to your garden as plants will have time to settle their roots into the ground before it’s time to bloom. And then – ahhh! On crisp winter days, the air will be full of fragrance, and you’ll want to stop for a moment to breathe it in.

All these scented shrubs are great picks for a front yard because, as well as brightening dismal winter days with glorious fragrance, they'll boost your home's curb appeal. They’re all very easy to grow, don’t need much in the way of care, and look good year-round. Just enrich the ground with a few spade-fulls of compost such as Back to the Roots Organic Compost, available from The Home Depot, when you plant them, add a further 2-inch layer of compost on top of the soil to act as a mulch to keep roots cozy through their first winter, and water during dry fall spells, and they’ll thrive.

Whether you favor the scent of comforting vanilla or sweet honey, gloriously floral perfumes or fresh and spicy aromas, there’s a winter-flowering shrub to suit. So, if you're wondering what to plant in October, start right here because growing a garden then smells good is just as important as one that looks good! Which of these scented front-yard shrubs will you plant this fall to cheery you through chilly winter days?

(Image credit: Getty Images)1. Daphne Odora

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The name of this fabulous shrub announces its best asset: an incredible scent that’s intensely floral yet has citrus undertones with a hint of spice that stops it from becoming cloying. Daphne shrubs had a reputation for being finicky plants to grow, until ‘Perfume Princess’ came along and put these shrubs on the must-have list, even for beginner gardeners. It’s hassle-free, boasts flowers that are four times as big as traditional varieties, and blooms earlier and for longer, all the way from January to May.

Unlike most Daphne that only flower on branch tips, it also produces its blush-pink and white flowers all the way down its stems once established. And yes, that means lots more of that lovely fragrance.

Princess Perfume daphne, available from trees.com, grows well in full sun or partial shade in zones 7-11. It’s a winner for a front yard because it naturally grows into a dense, rounded shape around three feet high and wide without the need for frequent pruning, and is evergreen for year-round good looks.

2. Winter Scented Sweetbox

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Sarcococca are hardy evergreen shrubs that lift the darkest of winter days with a sweet, honey-like fragrance, often with a comforting vanilla layer – the kind of smell that makes you take a deep breath and relax. These easy-to-grow plants perfume the air all around them with flowers in late winter and spring followed by highly ornamental berries, adding year-round curb appeal. They thrive in partial to full shade, making them a useful option for a tricky dark corner in zones 6-9.

There’s a sweetbox variety to suit every front yard. Fragrant Valley sweetbox, available from trees.com and flowering from late December is a great fit for most front yards because you can grow it as a low-maintenance groundcover, as it only reaches 2 feet high and 3 feet wide. Extend the aromatic experience with the newly introduced Sweet & Lo sweetbox, also available from trees.com and making great groundcover, as this flowers slightly later from February to March with bright pink tips to its white blooms.

If your front yard is short on space then Monrovia sweetbox, available from Lowe’s, can be grown flat up against a wall or fence, forming an attractive cloak of glossy evergreen leaves up to five feet high and wide but easily kept smaller. It flowers from December through March and though the blooms are tiny, their warm perfume carries up to 20 feet.

3. Witch Hazel

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you’ve got room to play with in your front yard, then witch hazel is a highly fragrant choice. The varieties with yellow flowers are far more fragrant than those with orange or red blooms, and Hamamelis x intermedia 'Arnold Promise’ is my standout choice for a scented front-yard showstopper. Highly aromatic with a sweet floral fragrance that carries well through crisp cold air, this pretty vase-shaped shrub (you can grow it as a small tree, too) flowers from late December to March, peaking in February – and we all need cheering up in February!

Hardy in zones 5-8, its ribbon-like blooms last for weeks, curling up during severe freezes then unfurling again as temperatures rise. Blooming on bare branches, it’s quite a sight on snowy days. Deciduous Arnold Promise witch hazel, available from Plant Addicts, has pretty fall foliage, too, and grows to 6-8 feet high though is easy to keep smaller by pruning right after the flowers fade. As long as it has its basic needs met in a spot with at least 5 hours of sun a day and neutral-to-acidic soil (it struggles in chalky soils with a pH above 7), witch hazel is a low-maintenance choice and drought-tolerant once established.

4. Japanese Andromeda

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Also known as Japanese pieris, Japanese andromeda aren’t all fragrant but there’s one variety that will light up dark winter days with a wonderful perfume: Pieris japonica ‘Dorothy Wycoff’. Its fragrance is rich yet clean, reminiscent of lily of the valley and a promise that spring is on its way.

Though it doesn’t flower till March, its reddish-purple buds form in summer and sit on the stems all through autumn and winter among the evergreen leaves. So it’s a joy as winter turns to spring to watch the buds expanding then bursting into cascades of bell-shaped blooms. Plant one of these beauties in your front yard and I wager you’ll be checking on bud progress every day you arrive home!

Dorothy Wycoff andromeda, available from Plant Addicts, flourishes in zones 5-8 and though it’s capable of growing to 5-7 feet high and wide, is easily kept smaller and can even be grown in a container.

5. Winter-Flowering Viburnum

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

There are over 150 species of Viburnum, and among them sit some that bring intense fragrance to cold winter days. An excellent choice for a front yard is Viburnum farreri ‘Nanum’, commonly known as dwarf fragrant viburnum. Extremely low-maintenance, this dwarf viburnum is compact and naturally rounded, and although it can reach 2-4 feet high and wide, it grows incredibly slowly so there’s no need for heavy pruning. Hardy in zones 5-8, dwarf fragrant viburnum thrives in full sun to partial shade.

The strength of its perfume belies its small frame, however. And what a scent! The base is warm with almond and vanilla, like walking into a bakery, cut with a spicy dash of clove. The aroma can hang in the air on still winter days, and snipping a single flowering stem to bring inside will fragrance a whole room.

Dwarf fragrant viburnum, available from Nature Hills, takes a little time to settle into a new home, so for the first year you can expect it to bloom lightly in late winter and early spring. But once this shrub matures and has grown its roots deep into the ground, it can flower intermittently from October all the way through to March. It doesn’t open all its buds at once but bursts into bloom during mild spells then pauses when temperatures plummet, producing another cluster when the weather improves. Because this little shrub is deciduous, the flower show is all the more beautiful because it happens on bare branches.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Adding a fragrant winter-flowering shrub to your front yard in fall is such a smart move to cheer you through to spring. And it's not just you who will be pleased – their intoxicating scent makes all these shrubs easy for early-flying pollinators to find.

Garlic is such a satisfying home crop to grow, and switching up one simple element will bring you bigger bulbs. It's such a no-brainer, yet it takes most gardeners a few years of growing garlic to realise this easy trick at planting time makes a huge difference to the size of harvested bulbs.

Traditional advice tells us to plant cloves knuckle-deep when we grow garlic, which equates to 1-2 inches. However, this rule-of-thumb hails from times when we all gardened in the ground, often in soil that sat wet through winter, so rotting cloves were a real risk. Today, in the loose, well-draining soil of a raised bed or in ground much-improved with compost, you can afford to plant cloves a little deeper, and that results in plumper bulbs.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Why? With a couple more inches of soil above them, the cloves are better insulated from the weather above, allowing roots to carry on growing for far longer before they’re halted by freezing temperatures. This big root system will power strong growth in spring, resulting in fatter bulbs. A deeply-planted clove will resist frost heaving which can pop a shallow-planted clove right out of the ground, too. Ready to grow garlic with bigger bulbs? Here’s exactly what to do.

1. Prep the Soil for Great Drainage

(Image credit: Tanapon Kongbunrak / Getty Images)

If you want to know how to grow garlic with bigger cloves, it's important to realise that you can only plant garlic cloves deeply in soil that's loose and well-drained. Try this trick in heavy, wet soil and if the cloves don’t rot over winter, the plants will waste energy pushing shoots through the dense ground that they could have ploughed into bulb expansion. So, only plant garlic this way if you have a raised bed which naturally gives good drainage, or you’re lucky enough to have loamy, free-draining soil.

Either way, improve the soil’s structure and drainage some more by digging in compost. If you make your own garden compost, great. If not, use a manure-free plant-derived compost like Back to the Roots Organic Compost, available from Walmart.

If you have already-fertile soil, the compost will also supply all the nutrients the garlic needs to grow plump bulbs. In poorer soil, or if you’re growing in a veg bed that’s been full of crops all summer, replenish nutrients before you plant with a slow-release fertilizer that’s high in phosphorous to boost root growth: Down to Earth Fish Bone Meal from Amazon is ideal.

2. Time Planting Just Right

To get the biggest bulbs, you want to get your cloves planted early enough to allow them plenty of time to grow a strong root system before winter, but not so soon that they move onto sending lots of shoots above ground that may be hit by freezing weather. The sweet spot to plant garlic cloves for big bulbs is around three weeks after your first frost, depending on your USDA zone.

So, tailor the time you plant garlic in fall to the conditions in your garden. In zones 1-6, you’ll want to plant garlic in October; in zones 7-8 you may need to wait till the end of October; and in zones 9-10, you’re perhaps looking at November.

Most garlic varieties need an 8-10 week period below 45°C to trigger cloves to split and form bulbs, a process known as vernalization. So, in zones 10+, you’ll need to pop your garlic into the fridge, in a paper bag or a lidded jar, for a couple of months to mimic this cold period before planting.

3. Only Plant the Biggest Cloves

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

When you split open your garlic bulbs, discard any smaller cloves as research shows bigger cloves grow bigger bulbs. Now your soil is loose and fast-draining, you can safely plant the cloves around 4 inches deep, using a dibber such as this Hand Hole Digger from Amazon to create planting holes.

Space holes 6 inches apart, because good airflow around the leaves will help prevent fungal diseases such as rust that can slow bulb growth. Then drop a single clove into each hole, pointy end up, and push that lovely loose soil over the top.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

And that’s all you need to do to double the size of your homegrown garlic bulbs! You see, the expert secret to growing big garlic bulbs is to grow big root systems. Kept cosy beneath that extra couple of inches of soil, with all the nutrients they need, the cloves you planted will quickly get busy growing deep roots through fall. While root growth will pause in frozen soil, as soon as temperatures creep back above 41°F it will resume, off and on, all through winter.

When spring arrives, that strong root network gives plants access to plenty of moisture and nutrients to grow lots of foliage. And because you’ve planted your garlic in a sunny spot, all those leaves act as solar panels to generate energy to fuel plumper bulbs. The loose soil you created will also allow bulbs to easily expand to their full potential.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Make sure you water the soil through any dry spells in spring and early summer when bulbs are swelling, then slow once the bulbs are fully formed – you’ll know when to stop because the foliage will start to yellow – and you’ll be harvesting garlic that's grown into showstopper bulbs.

Which Garlic is Best for Home Growing?If You Garden in a Colder Zone

In zones 1-8, opt for hardneck garlic varieties as they're much hardier and won't mind sub-zero temperatures a jot. Hardneck garlic bulbs have fewer but bigger cloves, strong flavor and store for 4-6 months.

Huge Cloves

Majestic

With a pleasing flavor and pretty pink tones, this variety grows 4-7 jumbo easy-peel cloves even in colder climates.

Health Benefits

Siberian

This variety is less pungent than most hardnecks and has a high concentration of immune-boosting allicin.

Gourmet Flavor

Montana Zemo

Adapted to flourish in colder zones, this variety produces plump cloves with a buttery flavor enjoyed raw or cooked.

If You Garden in a Warmer Zone

Choose softneck garlic in zones 6 and above, because it copes far better in warmer temperatures. Softneck garlic tastes milder, typically has lots of smaller cloves, and stores well for up to a year.

Hot-Zone Survivor

Early Italian

Producing bigger cloves than most softnecks, this sweet-tasting variety crops before mid-summer heat arrives.

Foolproof Harvest

California Jumbo

With creamy-white cloves and a crowd-pleasing flavor, this productive variety is particularly easy to grow.

Incredible Taste

Inchelium Red

Producing unusually big cloves, this variety regularly wins taste tests with its rich, layered flavors.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

Plenty of people care for a moth orchid the same way in fall as they do in summer. But by October, days are shorter, the sun sits lower, and the furnace dries out the air. Growth slows down, and that slowdown is when the plant starts setting up its next flower spike.

Fall orchid care isn't hard. You'll move the plant, water it less and feed it less, and you'll want to look it over more closely than you did in summer. Most of that takes only a few minutes.

These six tasks apply to moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) and other common types of orchids sold in grocery stores as houseplants. Yellow leaves, wrinkled leaves, and stray roots show up a lot this time of year, too.

1. Move Orchids Into Their Brightest Spot

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Light fades fast this month, and that bright spot from July might not cut it by November. East windows are the safest bet most of the year for meeting orchid light requirements. Once winter settles in and the sun hangs low and weak, though, a south window usually works, too.

With orchids, the leaves will tell you if you've got it wrong. A deep, dark green is the giveaway for not enough light. Too much shows up as a reddish edge, although that's less of a worry this time of year. For an interior room or a dim corner, try a grow light like the Sansi full-spectrum LED plant lamp, available on Amazon, which clips onto the side of the pot.

Whatever you do, just don't let the leaves rest against cold glass, as this can cause chilling damage, leaving unsightly dark patches on the foliage.

2. Adjust Your Watering Routine

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Slower growth means the potting mix stays wet longer. That makes overwatering the bigger danger until spring. Wait until the mix is nearly dry, then water thoroughly and let it drain. Never leave the pot sitting in a saucer of water.

Root color is often the best guide for watering orchids – they're silvery white when dry and green right after watering. Traditional moisture meters like the popular Yamron 4-in-1 don't work very well with orchids, as chunky bark mixes throw off probe readings; however, the Sustee Aquameter, available in a pack of 5 on Amazon, uses a moisture-absorbing wick rather than electrical conductivity, making it better suited, as long as it's in contact with plenty of potting mix. The indicator changes color from blue to white as the growing medium dries out.

Hold off on repotting orchids in the fall unless the bark has started to break down and become compacted, which can restrict airflow around the roots and increase the risk of rot.

3. Reduce or Stop Feeding

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It's tempting to keep the summer feeding schedule year-round. But an orchid's fertilizer needs follow its growth, and growth slows as the days shorten. You can still feed moth orchids that are putting out new leaves, just less often. Every third or fourth watering is enough. Use a water-soluble fertilizer like Better-Gro Orchid Plus, which you can pick up at Walmart.

Plants with no new leaves, roots, or spikes can go without until growth starts again. Extra fertilizer on a resting plant mostly means soft, leafy growth and fewer flowers. It also leaves salts in the bark, so flush the pot with plain water now and then.

4. Increase Humidity as the Heat Comes On

(Image credit: Getty Images)

So what does the furnace do to an orchid? Indoor humidity can drop below 30 percent once the heat runs regularly. Most tropical orchids prefer humidity around 60 to 75 percent. A spray bottle won't close that gap. The mist is gone within minutes.

To increase humidity for your orchids, try a pebble tray. Simply fill a shallow tray with gravel, add water about halfway up the stones, and set the pot on top. This Brussel's Bonsai tray from Amazon is a ready-to-go solution. Don't let the roots touch the water.

If you have a lot of houseplants grouped in one space, humidity will naturally increase. But if orchids are still struggling, try a small humidifier – this Pure Enrichment MistAire Ultrasonic Cool Mist Humidifier from Walmart runs up to 25 hours per fill.

5. Inspect for Pests Before Winter

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Healthy-looking orchids can still have pests. Many hide where you'd never notice unless you go looking, and a warm, dry house helps some of them along. Grab a flashlight and magnifying glass (this Large Magnifying Glass with 37 LED Lights from Amazon covers both) and check under the leaves, down in the joint where each leaf meets the stem, and along the flower stems.

• Cottony white clumps tucked in there are probably long-tailed mealybugs (Pseudococcus longispinus).
• Scale is sneakier – Boisduval scale (Diaspis boisduvalii) looks like whitish, waxy flecks stuck flat to a leaf, and it can pass for dried residue.
• Fine speckling, sometimes with a bit of webbing, usually means two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae).
• And fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.)? They're mostly harmless on their own – more a sign that the mix is staying too wet than a real threat.

Isolate any orchid with pests. Then dab the mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (you can buy it cheaply at Walmart), and keep the alcohol off the leaves.

6. Watch for Flower Spikes

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Cool fall weather triggers a new spike in many moth orchids (Phalaenopsis). Four or five weeks of days around 77°F (25°C) and nights near 68°F (20°C), or a little cooler, reliably bring one on. Days above 82°F (28°C) can hold it back.

New spikes look a lot like new roots at first. Check the tip. Spikes have a flattened, mitten-shaped tip and usually come up between the lower leaves, and root tips are round.

Stake the spike while it's still flexible – you can pick up a pack of bendable orchid stakes from Stroller on Amazon – and don't turn the pot once buds form.

Prune old brown spikes off at the base. Viruses can spread on tools, so dip the blades in a 10 percent bleach solution between plants.

Quick Fixes for Common Orchid Problems

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Three problems come up again and again once orchids move indoors:

• Yellow Leaves
  One yellow leaf at the bottom of a moth orchid is nothing to worry about. The oldest leaves age out and drop as the plant grows. Several yellow orchid leaves at once are another story, especially newer ones. That usually points to the roots. Too much water and old, soggy bark are common causes of root rot. Unpot the plant, trim off any mushy roots, and repot it in fresh bark.
• Wrinkled Leaves
  Limp, wrinkled orchid leaves mean water isn't getting to them. Moth orchids have no pseudobulbs to store water, so they show thirst quickly. Check the roots first – firm, healthy roots point to underwatering or dry air. Rotted roots can't take up water no matter how often you water.
• Aerial Roots
  Silvery roots climbing over the rim of the pot are normal. Orchids grow on trees in the wild and use their roots to cling to bark. Leave healthy aerial roots alone. Trim dead or shriveled ones the next time you repot.

An orchid doesn't need much from you this month. More light, less water, lighter feeding, and a quick pest check cover most of it. Keep those habits going through winter, and there's a good chance a fresh spike shows up before spring, followed by a gorgeous run of flowers.

Shop October Orchid Essentials

Stroller 18in Orchid Support Stakes – Pack of 20

Sustee Aquameter Plant Soil Moisture Sensor, Set of 5

Brussel's Bonsai 8" Humidity Tray With Decorative Rocks

When I think of a butterfly garden, butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii) is one of the first plants that comes to mind.

The clue's in the name: with its colorful flower clusters and nectar-rich blooms, it's easy to see why this shrub is such a favorite among gardeners looking to attract butterflies. However, butterfly bush has a complicated reputation, as it can become invasive in parts of the United States.

Sterile cultivars like this stunning Psychedelic Sky™ Butterfly Bush from Nature Hills offer a promising solution, producing little to no viable seed and reducing the risk of unwanted spread. That being said, if I was looking to create a garden that's as beneficial to local wildlife as it is beautiful, I'd also consider adding another native flowering shrub to the mix.

Shop Non-Invasive Butterfly Bush Options:

First Editions Psychedelic Sky™ Butterfly Bush

Plants That Work Bicolor Butterfly Bush

Nature Hills Nursery Black Knight Butterfly Bush

A Beautiful Native Alternative To Butterfly Bush

Native to much of the United States, buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) has its own distinctive charm, with spherical white blooms that attract pollinators and fruits that provide food for birds.

It's a wildlife-friendly butterfly bush alternative worth considering, particularly if you have moist soil or a rain garden, and a way to add another valuable native plant to the landscape.

(Image credit: Donna Bollenbach / Shutterstock)

Rather than producing tapered flower clusters like a butterfly bush, this uniwue alternative develops distinctive round, white flower heads that look a little like pincushions. Each globe is made up of many tiny tubular flowers, which typically appear during summer and fill the air with their sweet honey-like fragrance.

Its flowers provide nectar and pollen for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, including hummingbirds. In fact, it's also one of the plants to add if you want fireflies in your garden, too. Win!

As if that weren't enough to make it a must-grow, the shrub also develops rounded clusters of fruits after flowering, which provide food for birds, including some waterfowl and songbirds (and likely your birth month bird, too!). Basically, for gardeners who want a shrub that looks interesting as well as serving a purpose, buttonbush is an appealing choice.

Shop Buttonbush Plants:

American Beauties Buttonbush

GINGERGLOW Buttonbush Live Plant

American Beauties Crimson Comet Buttonbush

There's one important thing I'd consider before bringing buttonbush home: its preferred growing conditions. This butterfly bush alternative naturally grows in wet habitats, which means it thrives in moist to wet soil and can tolerate poorly drained areas where many ornamental shrubs struggle. All of which means that, if I had a spot that regularly stayed damp after rainfall, buttonbush would be high on my list of shrubs to consider.

It grows in full sun to partial shade, although flowering is generally better with adequate sunlight. Once established in the right location (aka not a dry garden or a hot border with fast-draining soil), though, it can become a standout and long-lived feature of the landscape.

So, sure, butterfly bush may still catch the eye, but buttonbush offers a compelling alternative for the right garden. If your soil stays moist and you have room for a larger shrub, this native beauty deserves a closer look... and, in return, it'll soon reward you by becoming a buzzing neighborhood hot spot for birds, butterflies, and more!

What could be better, quite frankly?

Jennifer Aniston, also known as Rachel from my favorite show, Friends, has one of the most famous homes/gardens on the internet right now. Rachel Green never had a garden, and Aniston is clearly making up for it. Really, this Bel Air property is having a moment; from the Japanese-inspired planting to the roses, people are trying to copy it in even the tiniest of spaces. But it’s her koi pond (pictured below) that is really doing some heavy lifting, especially when it comes to the Japanese aesthetic.

It’s the kind of feature that looks like it required some serious money and expertise, but it actually starts with one pretty straightforward question. As Kendahl Kreps, Director of Marketing at Oase North America, puts it: “Do you want fish?” Everything else follows from there.

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Start With the Right Questions

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Before even thinking about logistical questions like what size, depth, and budget you’re working with, it’s helpful to get clear about what exactly you want from a water feature. Kreps says to ask yourself, “What do I want from this? Sound? Aesthetics? Nature habitat? All of these things can help you decide what kind of water feature you should go with.”

Joe Zawistowski, founder of Black Koi Water Features and a certified Aquascape contractor with 25 years and over 300 ponds behind him, agrees: “A pond that fits your lifestyle is one you will enjoy for decades.”

If the answer is fish, you’ll want to head toward a proper koi pond. If it’s sound and movement without the maintenance commitment, a pondless waterfall delivers almost the same experience. “A pondless waterfall gives you the sight, sound, and planting of a full water feature without an open body of water,” says Zawistowski. “Most of the water sits invisibly in a buried reservoir under a floor of rocks, and the pump recirculates it continuously. No fish, almost no maintenance, and the footprint can be as small as ten by ten feet.”

The Non-Negotiables

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Two things you absolutely can’t compromise on when it comes to a koi pond are depth and filtration. Koi need a minimum of 18 inches (45 cm), but Zawistowski pushes for three feet (90cm): “Three feet eliminates successful heron hunting because herons wade to strike and can’t reach fish at that depth.”

Aiza, a sustainability writer at GreenerPulse, adds that depth also matters for temperature stability: “Shallow ponds heat up and cool down too fast, and the fish get stressed."

When it comes to filtration, every expert is on the same page. “Prioritize filtration,” says Jacob Romkee, landscape expert at Thumbtack. “A poor filtration system can undermine the whole project.” Aiza is equally direct: “The filter is the worst place to save money.”

Almost every first-time pond owner will encounter an algae problem. Kreps recommends a combined UV and mechanical filter system, like this TotalPond system on Amazon. She says, “UV bulbs and filter foams polish the water to make the fish look as if they are floating.”

If you don't have fish in your pond, a floating solar-powered fountain, like this Mademax design, is a simple, affordable way to add movement to the water. It can also help improve circulation and aeration, keeping the pond fresher and reducing stagnation.

Small Garden? No Problem

(Image credit: Future/Emma Kendell)

While you may think you need to have a full koi pond to get the same look as Jennifer Aniston, it’s actually not the only option. If you have a small space in an urban garden or patio, a container pond or raised feature can give you most of the same benefits. Romkee has seen genuinely creative approaches: “I’ve seen people turn bathtubs, hot tubs, tiered fountains, and even disguised kiddie pools into water features.”

Aiza and Zawistowski are quick to point out one big caveat, both claiming that a smaller water volume is much less forgiving. They tell me that temperature swings happen much faster and water quality can shift very quickly, so a container pond actually requires more attention and maintenance, not less, as you might assume.

Planting Around It

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Plants around the pond are essential to making it look embedded in the garden rather than simply dropped into it. Zawistowski uses marginal plants like iris and pickerelweed to soften the edges, water lilies to shade the surface and suppress algae, and, for the surrounding landscape, weeping and upright Japanese maples, catmint, ornamental Carex grass, and coneflowers.

Romkee adds ferns, Japanese iris, and creeping ground cover as strong options, with one firm disclaimer: “I’m much more cautious about bamboo because it’s so hard to get rid of once planted.”

Getting the Japanese Look

(Image credit: RHS/Tim Sandall)

Jennifer Aniston’s koi pond works so well because of the restraint she and her designer, Stephen Shadley, used. Kreps says, “An asymmetrical pond shape, a few carefully selected stones, controlled planting, and one strong focal element such as a bridge or sculptural rock.”

Aiza puts it even more simply: “Resist the urge to add three fountains.” Still water, well-placed stone, and a limited plant palette make a complete formula. The engineering, as Zawistowski says, should disappear entirely, “so the feature looks like natural erosion rather than something that arrived on a truck.”

Shop Pond Kits

Aquascape Aquagarden Mini Pond Kit

Trinx Aquagarden 50-Gal Resin Pond Kit

Smiley Scapes Water Garden Fountain Koi Pond Kit

I’m a big believer that you don’t have to spend much money to have a beautiful garden. I often repurpose containers and other household items outside, but one of my favorite ways to recycle is to return food waste to the earth. Each fall, I bury kitchen scraps in my empty raised beds using a mix of ingredients I’ve found that makes an ideal free soil improver. The scraps break down in place over winter, adding organic matter to the soil before spring planting.

This on-the-go trench composting method doesn't require a compost bin, but I keep a countertop caddy, similar to this best-selling Oxo Good Grips Bin on Amazon, in my kitchen and add suitable scraps as I go. Every few days, I empty it into a shallow trench in one of my beds, then move on to another spot. I keep going until the ground freezes.

My Soil Improver Recipe

You don’t need every ingredient in my mix; simply leave out anything you don’t have. I can’t recommend adding other ingredients in their place, though. Think of it as an easy, personal way to put kitchen scraps to work in the garden, rather than a precise recipe.

1. Fruit and Vegetable Scraps

(Image credit: Okrasiuk / Shutterstock)

Fruit and vegetable scraps are the main ingredient and make up the bulk volume of the mix. I save things like banana, citrus, and cucumber peels, apple cores, carrot tops, and other uncooked trimmings. As they break down, they return organic matter and some of their nutrients to the soil.

I chop larger or tougher scraps into pieces about 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. Smaller pieces are easier to mix into the soil and should break down more readily. I avoid scraps covered in oil, sauce, or dressing, and I never add any meat, fish, bones, or dairy to the mix.

2. Used Coffee Grounds

(Image credit: Kinga Krzeminska / Getty Images)

I add about 1 cup of used coffee grounds to a batch of scraps. Grounds contain small amounts of nutrients and organic compounds, but despite what you may have seen in viral gardening videos, they need time to break down before the bed is ready for planting.

I let the grounds cool first, then stir them through the scraps so they don’t clump together. I keep the amount modest: coffee grounds are best used in moderation.

3. Crushed Eggshells

(Image credit: Ermak Oksana / Shutterstock)

Eggshells are one of the most widely used food scraps in gardening. For my mix, I save the shells from a couple of eggs, rinse off any residue, let them dry, and crush them as finely as I can – with a blender or pestle and mortar, like this Gorilla Grip design on Amazon.

Eggshells contain calcium, although they break down slowly, so I don’t expect them to act like a quick calcium feed. I add them because they’re easy to save and can eventually become part of the soil.

Many gardeners also sprinkle eggshells around plants in the hope of deterring soft-bodied pests such as slugs. I don’t rely on them for pest control, though, so I crush mine and add them to the mix instead of scattering them around plants.

4. Oatmeal

(Image credit: AnnaPustynnikova)

While not technically a scrap, I add a small handful of plain rolled oats – about ¼ cup – to my recipe. Oatmeal is grain-based, so it’ll break down into organic matter in the soil, adding lots of nutrients. Oats are also believed to help stimulate root growth, as they contain phosphorus and feed beneficial mycorrhizal fungi in the soil.

5. Cinnamon

(Image credit: Getty Images)

I add a little cinnamon to my mix for its much-touted properties as a natural fungicide, rooting hormone, and pest deterrent. These uses are popular with gardeners, although I wouldn’t rely on a small amount buried in the soil to solve an existing problem. You don’t need much – around ½ teaspoon is plenty for my mix.

6. Flat Beer

(Image credit: Alamy)

If I have some flat beer left over, I add a small splash – about ½ cup – to my caddy. Beer contains yeast and other organic compounds, which is why some gardeners use it in compost or homemade plant feeds. I don't know whether it makes a measurable difference to my soil, so I wouldn't open a bottle specifically, but it’s a way to use up a little leftover beer rather than pour it down the drain.

When and How I Bury the Mix in Fall

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Once my caddy is at least half full, I take it out to an empty bed. I dig a trench about 12–18 inches (30–45 cm) deep, add the scraps, and mix them with some of the soil, then I fill the trench back in. I make sure the food waste is fully covered, with at least 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) of soil above it, so that it doesn't attract animal pests.

One key point is that I don’t try to fill the whole bed with one enormous batch. As a rough guide, I use about 1 gallon (4 L) of mixed scraps for each 4-by-4-foot (1.2-by-1.2-m) bed, spread along a short trench. If I have any leftovers, I bury the rest in another empty spot or save it for another trench. Alternatively, buy a cheap compost bin, like the Vevor small compost tumbler from Home Depot, and start building that up as you go.

The exact amount isn’t a strict recipe. I keep the layer of scraps fairly modest, chop everything small, and cover it well. I avoid digging close to established plants, whose roots could be disturbed, and don’t bury food waste in beds where I plan to plant immediately.

Balancing the Scraps

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Kitchen scraps are moist and break down more easily when mixed with some dry material. If I have them, I add a couple of handfuls of shredded leaves to my trench batch. They contribute carbon and help keep the scraps from clumping together.

I sometimes add a small handful of fresh grass clippings, too. They’re nitrogen-rich, but I use them sparingly and mix them through the scraps and leaves so they don’t form a dense, soggy layer. Both additions are optional home composting extras: I just use what’s available in the garden.

What I Do in Spring

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By spring, the scraps will have had several months to break down. When I’m ready to plant, I check the area first. If I can still see recognizable pieces, I leave that part of the bed alone for a little longer and plant elsewhere. If the soil looks settled and the scraps have mostly disappeared, I loosen the surface and get the bed ready for planting.

I don’t expect this one mix to replace compost or a soil test, and I don’t use it as a precise fertilizer. For me, it’s a simple way to make use of kitchen leftovers and add them back to an empty garden bed while there’s time for them to break down before spring.

Is there anything more magical than spotting a bright red cardinal among the branches of your backyard?

Honestly, I'm not so sure that there is; there's a reason we all love these beautifully vibrant birds so much, and it's not just because they've become synonymous with the holidays (a study back in 2022 determined that 34% of the birds featured on Christmas cards are cardinals, if you don't believe me!). They are laden with symbolism, and many believe that if they're the first bird you spot on January 1st, you're owed 12 months of love, hope, optimism, and good luck for the year ahead.

Now, these beautiful songbirds are year-round residents across much of the eastern and central United States, and with the right planting choices, you can make your garden a more inviting place for them to visit. So, how best to go about it?

The Best Plants To Attract Cardinals

The secret to charming these birds into your yard? Think beyond bird feeders and give cardinals more of what they naturally need: food, shelter, and places to nest.

Now, cardinals eat a varied diet of seeds, fruit, and insects, and they particularly favor gardens with plenty of dense vegetation where they can hide from predators and forage safely. All of which means that, if you're hoping to welcome more of these ruby-red visitors to your yard this season, these three trees are a great place to start.

Shop Plants To Attract Cardinals:

Nature Hills Nursery White Flowering Dogwood

Proven Winners La Vida Más® Indian Hawthorn

Nature Hills Nursery Louisa Flowering Crabapple Tree

1. Hawthorn

(Image credit: Volodymyr Chmut / Getty Images)

If you want to make your garden more appealing to cardinals, hawthorn is a great tree to consider. Depending on the species, these trees produce small fruits often called haws, which can provide food for birds into the cooler months. Their dense, sometimes thorny branches also offer useful shelter for wildlife.

Hawthorns can be particularly valuable in a wildlife-friendly garden because they provide more than one benefit. Their flowers attract insects, their fruits feed birds, and their branching structure offers places to perch and hide.

When choosing a hawthorn, look for a species suited to your local growing conditions and available space. Native varieties are especially worth considering because they can support a wider range of local wildlife, although the La Vida Más® Indian Hawthorn from Nature Hills is an undeniably spectacular option if you are in the mood for endless clusters of pink flowers (and how could you not be?).

2. Crabapple

(Image credit: SEEphotos7171 / Shutterstock)

Crabapple trees are another excellent option for a cardinal-friendly garden. Their spring blossoms bring seasonal color, while the small fruits that follow can become an important food source for birds in fall and winter.

The fruits of some crabapple varieties persist on the tree after the leaves have dropped, creating a welcome food source when other options become scarcer. The branches also offer perching spots and can contribute to the layered structure that makes a backyard more attractive to birds.

For the best wildlife value, choose something like the Louisa Weeping Crabapple Tree from Nature Hills. It has the added benefit of being stunning, too!

3. Dogwood

(Image credit: Gina Kelly / Alamy)

Dogwood is a particularly good choice if you're looking for a plant that combines ornamental appeal with wildlife benefits. Many dogwoods produce berries that cardinals and other fruit-eating birds enjoy, and Cornell's Lab of Ornithology specifically lists dogwood among the fruits eaten by cardinals, too!

Depending on the species, dogwoods can grow as small trees or shrubs, making them useful for gardens of different sizes. Their seasonal flowers, foliage, and fruits can provide interest throughout the year, while their branching growth helps create cover for all visiting birds (very likely including your own birth month bird in the mix).

For a particularly wildlife-friendly planting, look into native dogwood species that are well suited to your region. Personally, I love the White Flowering Dogwood from Nature Hills.

Other Ways To Keep Cardinals Happy:

Kaytee Kaytee Cardinal Seed Cake

Birdfy Bird House With Camera

Feeding in Style

Sweetfull Sweetfull Solar Bird Feeder

Planting these trees can help, but the best cardinal-friendly gardens offer more than fruit alone. Cardinals are especially fond of dense shrubs and tangled vegetation, which provide shelter from predators and suitable nesting locations, and they also need a reliable source of water.

Finally, try to choose plants native to your region and avoid pesticides wherever possible. A diverse garden with food available across different seasons is more likely to support birds and other wildlife over the long term, after all! Still, with hawthorn, crabapple, and dogwood in the mix, you can create a backyard that looks beautiful through the seasons while offering cardinals more reasons to stop by.

If that's not an excuse to get growing, I don't know what is!

True lilies are some of the most striking, fragrant, and elegant flowers in the garden. As fall continues, those magnificent blooms may fade, but underground, their leaves and bulbs are working overtime to prepare for winter. October is a critical time when lily bulbs are drawing in late-season nutrients, developing healthy roots, and storing vital energy to push up towering stems next year.

Before diving into autumn chores, make sure you clarify which type of lily you need to care for, and distinguish true lilies (Lilium) from daylilies (Hemerocallis). Daylilies grow from dense, fibrous roots and die back quickly, while true lilies grow from fleshy bulbs. These fall tasks focus on early-blooming Asiatic hybrids, fragrant Oriental lilies (like 'Stargazer'), majestic Trumpet lilies, and robust Orienpet (OT) hybrids.

These simple October tasks outlined here ensure maximum winter survival, smart disease resistance, and better flower development next time. Because most true lilies are cold-hardy, they can remain safely in the ground (just a few tender types, or lilies in very cold climates, benefit from winter storage). By giving your lily beds a little expert attention now, you set the stage for an explosive, colorful display next year.

Best Lily Care in October

Before getting stuck into lily care, give some thought to your USDA hardiness zone and climate, as well as specific varieties. Because specific lily classes mature at different rates through late summer, individual plants in borders may sit at varying stages of dormancy in October. Early Asiatic varieties may have dropped their leaves weeks ago, while tall Oriental and Orienpet hybrids might hold green foliage into fall.

In addition to managing existing lily beds, October is a great time to introduce new lily bulbs. Soil temperatures remain warm enough for fresh roots to establish before deep winter freezes arrive. At the same time, growers in severe northern climates (zones 2–3) or those growing tender, exotic species like Formosa lilies can lift and store bulbs for protection.

(Image credit: Xphotoz / Getty Images)

It’s a good idea to invest in a soil probe that can give you a reliable idea of light and moisture levels in the ground at this time. A diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter, available from Amazon, can give you a heads-up about conditions around your lilies before you start. Checking can help you clarify root moisture, soil pH, and temperature levels before you mulch or plant new bulbs.

Whether you are tending established clumps, adding new varieties, or lifting tender bulbs for winter, these simple October tasks will ensure your lilies transition smoothly into dormancy. Following these quick checks this month gives you the best preparation for healthier plants and bigger blooms next summer.

1. Remove Dead Seed Heads and Leaves

(Image credit: Annie Sell / Getty Images)

Removing spent plant material is important for maintaining a tidy bed but also for plant health and preventing infections. Fallen leaves and spent lily foliage can harbor destructive fungal spores, most notably lily blight, as well as other pathogens. Collect and dispose of yellowing or dropped leaves as they loosen from the main stems. Any foliage showing dark spots, water-soaked streaks, or powdery mildew should be bagged and placed in the trash (not the compost pile) to prevent spreading disease.

Additionally, snip off any seed heads that form after flowering finishes. Unless you are intentionally saving seed for propagation, developing seed pods drain massive amounts of energy away from the bulb. Removing seed capsules redirects resources back down into the bulb, strengthening reserves for winter. Always use clean, sharp snips when removing seed heads, and wipe down the blades before and after use. Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Neem Oil Spray, available from Walmart, is great for sanitizing tool blades as well as treating beds against fungal spores.

2. Check Plants for Pests and Diseases

(Image credit: Akchamczuk / Getty Images)

This is an excellent opportunity to check remaining stems and leaf joints for signs of damage or insect activity, like spots or holes. Aphids, red lily leaf beetles, and scale insects frequently deposit overwintering eggs close to the soil line. Removing old stem tissue and clearing away leaf clutter can eliminate cozy pest harbors. To help you get a closer look, grab a magnifying glass or a loupe like the Carson LumiLoupe 10x Stand Magnifier from Amazon. This can help assess leaves or bulb scales for hidden mites, thrips, or early fungal rot.

If you are dividing or lifting tender varieties for indoor storage, inspect bulbs closely. Healthy lily bulbs should feel firm, plump, and heavy, with crisp white, yellow, or pinkish scales. Discard any that feel soft, squishy, or show signs of blue mold or basal rot. If you notice rot in multiple bulbs, it might be a sign of poor soil drainage. Correct this in October by working some coarse grit or perlite into the planting area.

3. Trim Back Faded Plants

(Image credit: Oleksandr Rado / Alamy)

While it is tempting to clear away all stems early to keep beds tidy, patience is essential – and timing is crucial. As long as a lily stem holds green leaves, it is actively performing photosynthesis, converting sunlight into carbohydrates and pumping energy down into the bulb. So while parts of the plant are working, it’s best to leave lilies as long as they are healthy. Cutting back green stems prematurely starves the bulb, resulting in stunted growth and fewer flowers the following season.

Wait until the foliage has turned yellow, brown or papery before cutting back. Once the stem is fully dead, use bypass pruners to cut the stalk down to about 2-3 inches (5-8cm) above the ground. Leaving a short stem stub helps mark the bulb's location. Dispose of dead stalks promptly, as hollow, decaying stems left standing over winter make ideal overwintering sites for pests and spores. After cutting back, add a gentle organic phosphorus booster to the soil. A little Down to Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s around trimmed bases can encourage root development.

4. Lift Tender Bulbs and Plant New Bulbs

(Image credit: Olga Seifutdinova / Getty Images)

This is a chore many gardeners can skip, as most lilies are hardy in most areas of North America. Asiatic, Oriental, and Trumpet lilies are hardy in zones 4-9, but if you are in zones 2-3 or growing tender exotic species, it’s smart to lift bulbs in October. Once foliage dies back, carefully lift using a garden fork, taking care not to nick the bulbs. Brush off loose soil and allow the bulbs to air-dry in a cool room for 24 hours. Store them in cardboard boxes layered with slightly damp peat moss, wood shavings or vermiculite. Keep in a cool, dark location, around 40-45°F (4-7°C).

October is also a great time to plant new hardy lilies. Autumn soil retains summer warmth, allowing fresh bulbs to build strong root systems. Plant bulbs pointy side up at a depth 2-3 times the height of the bulb, 6-8 inches (15-20cm) deep. Choose a sunny site with well-draining soil, mixing a little organic compost or bone meal into the bottom of the hole. Add a gentle root tonic rather than a heavy dedicated feed. Go for a light soil drench with a seaweed or kelp tonic like GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp from Walmart. This is rich in trace minerals to help develop roots.

5. Apply Mulch and Mark Locations

(Image credit: Vasil Dimitrov / Getty Images)

Bulbs that stay in the ground over winter benefit from a little protection, even if they are hardy in your growing zone. Mulching insulates the soil, moderates temperature changes, and reduces the risk of frost-related damage. Once beds are cleared and trimmed, apply a layer of mulch. If you’re looking for a great mulch for lilies, I recommend Back to the Roots Organic Premium Wood Mulch from Amazon. This dye-free organic bark mulch insulates bulbs, while suppressing early weeds. You can also use shredded bark, evergreen boughs or clean straw.

As well as insulating the soil against temperature swings, mulching prevents damage by freeze-thaw cycles. These can cause frost heaving, which is where shifting soil pops bulbs up to the surface. Wait until the ground cools down (or after the first hard freeze) before applying a 2-4-inch (5-10cm) blanket of your mulch. Don’t pack it too tightly or thickly, though, as this can trap moisture over the bulbs.

Finally, be sure to mark the exact locations of your buried lily bulbs. True lilies emerge relatively late in spring, and it is dangerously easy to forget exactly where they are and to slice through dormant bulbs in spring. Drive durable wooden or plastic garden stakes into the ground besides your trimmed stem stubs or fresh plantings. Taking a quick photo on your smartphone can also help to create a visual map that prevents accidental digging when spring arrives.

(Image credit: Sandra Burm / Alamy)

These well-timed tasks will help your lily bulbs survive the winter and thrive next spring with vigorous growth and abundant, majestic blooms. The most important priorities are to leave green foliage intact until it dies back naturally, clear away dead plant debris, and protect underground bulbs while ensuring excellent soil drainage for any additions. Take a little time to tend your lily beds well this fall, and you can enjoy an unforgettable display of lovely lilies next summer.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

By mid-October, many tomato plants look pretty rough, with yellowing leaves, a few stubborn green fruits, and stems flopping over their cages. The easy move is to yank the whole mess out and drag it to the trash or the compost pile. Before you do, though, there’s some useful work hiding in those tired plants.

Good end-of-season tomato plant care starts with a close look at what you’re pulling. Some vines can feed next year’s garden as compost, and the best fruit can give you free seed. Others may carry diseases you don’t want to spread around the yard or carry over into next summer.

That’s the main thing to keep in mind as you work. Healthy tomato plants can usually go in the compost, while diseased ones should be bagged and disposed of according to your local guidance. Nearly every other job, from saving seeds to cleaning cages, depends on knowing which kind of plants you have.

1. Check Plants Carefully for Disease

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Walk the row slowly and look at leaves, stems, and fruit before a single plant comes out. A few problems should never go into a typical home compost pile. Late blight (Phytophthora infestans) is one, and the bacterial tomato diseases are others, including bacterial spot (Xanthomonas spp.) and bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis), which can survive in plant debris. Mosaic viruses are worse still – tobacco and tomato mosaic viruses can hang on in dried plant debris for years. Most backyard piles never get hot enough, evenly enough, to kill these organisms. Bag those plants and get rid of them according to your local rules, and do the same with any plant that’s heavily infested with pests.

2. Save Seeds from Your Best Tomatoes

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Seed saving only works with open-pollinated or heirloom varieties – hybrids won’t come true to type, so an F1 tomato’s seeds can give you something quite different next year. Pick fully ripe fruit from your healthiest, best-tasting plants and scoop the seeds and gel into a glass jar with a little water. Stir it twice a day for up to about five days, until it ferments and the good seeds sink. Pour off the floaters, rinse what’s left in something like the Farberware fine mesh strainers from Walmart, and dry the seeds on a coffee filter or paper plate.

Once a fingernail can’t dent them, they’re ready for labeled paper envelopes; the Lotmer seed-saving envelopes from Amazon are printed with seed name, variety, date collected, and growing notes. Kept cool, dry, and dark, tomato seed usually stays good for about four years.

3. Take Healthy Cuttings Before Frost

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This one’s optional, but if there’s a variety you loved this year, you can carry it through the winter indoors. Pick a few healthy side shoots about 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) long and snip them off with clean pruners – Fiskars' bypass pruning shears, available on Amazon, are a great budget-friendly pick if you need a new pair.

Cuttings will usually root in a plain jar of water, as long as the cut ends sit 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) under the surface and the jar stays somewhere cool and bright. Once roots show up, pot them and give them all the light you can. Don’t put this off until after a hard frost has already hit the garden.

Leave out any plant that had disease problems, and viruses in particular, since a cutting can carry them along from the parent.

4. Compost Healthy Plants the Right Way

(Image credit: Halfpoint Images / Getty Images)

Healthy vines are worth composting, but toss them on the pile whole, and they’ll take ages to rot. Chop them into short lengths first – 8–12 inches (20–30cm) or so – because smaller pieces break down faster. It also pays to strip off any leftover tomatoes. Seeds can make it through a backyard pile in one piece, and you may find volunteers popping up next summer.

Layer the chopped vines with dry leaves or other brown material. A compost bin like the Redmon 65-gallon compost bin from Walmart keeps it all corralled.

If you’re on the fence about whether a plant was healthy, use that compost away from where tomatoes will grow. Healthy potting mix from containers can go on the pile, too, so dump those pots before you stack them for winter.

5. Remove the Roots (or Leave Them?)

(Image credit: Helin Loik-Tomson / Getty Images)

For plants that stayed healthy all season, there’s a good case for leaving the roots in the ground. Just cut the stems off at the soil line, and the roots will break down in place, adding organic matter without much soil disturbance. A plant that wilted, stunted, or yellowed for no clear reason is another story. Loosen the root ball with a spading fork, like Home Depot’s Ames 4-tine forged spading fork. You’re looking for knotty swellings on the roots, a sign of root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.).

Remove infested roots soon after harvest and leave them out of the garden. The same goes for plants with Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. lycopersici), which can persist in soil for many years. In containers, tip the root ball out and check it the same way.

6. Clean and Disinfect Cages, Stakes and Supports

(Image credit: Alamy)

Some disease organisms ride along on tomato supports. Bacterial canker can persist on stakes, and mosaic viruses can last weeks to months on stakes and trellises. Knock off the dirt first, then scrub or hose them down, since soil blocks disinfectants. Then soak them fully in a 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) for at least 20 minutes.

Rather skip the bleach? ZeroTol 2.0, an OMRI-listed hydrogen peroxide product sold on Amazon, is labeled for hard, nonporous surfaces like metal cages and tools. Wooden stakes are trickier – bacteria can hide in the wood – so toss any that held canker-infected plants. Plastic pots can get the same bleach soak, followed by a good rinse.

7. Recharge the Bed for Next Year

(Image credit: UMB-O / Shutterstock)

Bare soil over winter is a missed opportunity. Winter rye is very cold-tolerant and grows in cool weather. In mid-October, it’s still an option in many areas, as long as you sow it at least four weeks before steady cold sets in. You’ll find Mountain Valley Seed winter rye on Amazon in a 5-pound bag on Amazon. Mow it in spring before it sets seed, then turn it under two to four weeks before planting.

If it’s too late for a cover crop, spread compost such as Back to the Roots organic compost, available from Home Depot, or a blanket of shredded leaves, instead. Next year’s tomatoes should go somewhere else, too – keep tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and potatoes out of that spot for three to four years. For containers, reuse potting mix only if the plants stayed healthy, and replace the top 6 inches (15 cm) in big pots with fresh mix.

Your Post-Harvest Tomato Checklist

Once the last tomatoes are picked, here’s the whole job in short form. Pin it somewhere you’ll see it, because October tends to get busy.

• Look over every plant for disease before anything gets pulled.
• Bag blighted, bacterial or virus-infected plants, and compost only the healthy ones.
• Save seed from your best open-pollinated or heirloom tomatoes.
• If you want a head start, root a few healthy side shoots indoors before frost.
• Chop healthy vines and pick off leftover fruit before they hit the compost.
• Dig up and check the roots of any plant that wilted or struggled.
• Scrub and disinfect cages, stakes and pots before storing them.
• Sow winter rye, add compost or mulch the bed with leaves.
• Pick a new spot for next year’s tomatoes.

It's that time of year that sees them pop up all over the place, but did you know you have a birth month mushroom?

Yes, mushrooms might not be the first thing that springs to mind when you think about personality (indeed, many of us tend to think about them in terms of how best to remove these fungi from our garden), but these fascinating plants have plenty of character.

From patterned caps peeking through woodland leaves to clusters of mushrooms growing on fallen logs, they come in an extraordinary range of shapes, sizes and colors. Some are easy to grow at home, while others are the sort of unexpected find that can make an ordinary walk feel a little more magical. And some are, of course, killers in disguise.

So, which best represents you?

All 12 Birth Month Mushrooms

If you've already explored your birth month bird, birth month animal, and birth month bug, you might think you've covered all the ways to find a nature-inspired match for your birthday. Mushrooms, though, are here to prove that wrong.

We've picked 12 mushrooms, one for every month, taking inspiration from fungi you might encounter in the wild across the US and UK, alongside varieties you can grow at home. From springtime morels to fall's woodland favorites and a wonderfully pink number, each has something special to recommend it.

So, which mushroom matches your birth month? Read on to discover your fungi counterpart, learn a little about where it grows and find out whether your match is a familiar woodland sight or a colorful variety you could try cultivating yourself (hey, there's a reason the Back to the Roots Organic Oyster Mushroom Grow Kit is so popular!). Just remember that wild mushrooms can be difficult to identify, and some poisonous species resemble edible ones, so enjoy them with your eyes unless you're certain of their identity.

January – Velvet Shank

(Image credit: Education Images / Contributor/Getty Images)

January personalities are known for their determination and ability to keep going when the going gets tough. The velvet shank (Flammulina velutipes) makes a fitting birth month mushroom, then: this golden-orange mushroom can fruit in cold weather, often appearing in clusters on dead wood when many other fungi are less conspicuous.

Its ability to flourish through winter makes it a little symbol of perseverance. Pretty sweet going for a little mushi!

February – Turkey Tail

(Image credit: SOPA Images / Contributor /Getty Images)

February's imaginative side finds its match in turkey tail (Trametes versicolor). Its overlapping fans can display beautiful bands of cream, brown, grey and other colors, making every cluster look like a tiny natural artwork. It grows on dead wood and is a lovely reminder that creativity can be found in unexpected places. It's a fungi match with plenty of visual personality.

Shop Mushroom Foraging Essentials:

Workman Publishing How to Forage for Mushrooms Without Dying: an Absolute Beginner's Guide to Identifying 29 Wild, Edible Mushrooms

VylerSky Vylersky Foraging Bag - Mushroom Foraging Kit With Bag and Knife, Great for Mushroom Decor Lovers

DRACHENADER Drachenader Mushroom Knife With Brush, Folding Foraging Knife

March – Scarlet Elf Cup

(Image credit: DeAgostini/Getty Images)

Quietly striking rather than showy, the scarlet elf cup (Sarcoscypha species) is a lovely match for March. Its vivid red cups often appear among moss and leaf litter on fallen twigs in woodland, bringing a flash of color to the early-year landscape.

Oh sure, you might have to look carefully to spot this birth month mushroom out and about in the wild, but that is part of its charm: a little beauty for those who take the time to notice!

April – Morel

(Image credit:  Sotis G / 500px / Getty Images)

With its unmistakable honeycomb-like cap, the morel (Morchella species) certainly knows how to make an entrance! These sought-after spring mushrooms have an unusual appearance that makes them stand out from the crowd, just like April's bold, energetic personalities.

Morels can be found in parts of the US and UK in spring, although their appearance depends on local conditions. They're fascinating to spot, but never eat a wild mushroom without reliable expert identification: false morels can be dangerous.

May – Dryad's Saddle

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May's dependable personality pairs nicely with dryad's saddle (Cerioporus squamosus), a large fungus that grows on tree trunks and fallen wood. Its broad cap has distinctive dark scales, giving it a sturdy, earthy appearance.

Often seen in spring, it's the sort of birth month mushroom that rewards a closer look at the trees around you, making it a lovely match for someone who likes to keep their feet firmly on the ground.

Shop And Grow Your Own Mushrooms:

Heart Light

Back to the Roots Back to the Roots Organic Mini Mushroom Grow Kit

The Night-Blooming Beauty

NuBlume Bloombox Blue Oyster Mushroom Grow Kit

Woodland Shimmer

North Spore North Spore Pink Oyster Mushroom Growing Kit

June – Shiitake

(Image credit: Gray Wagtail / Shutterstock)

Shiitake (Lentinula edodes) is obviously the birth month mushroom for sensitive and sociable June babies. Its rich brown caps and familiar place in kitchens around the world give it a comforting, approachable quality.

Unlike mushrooms that are mainly discovered in the wild, shiitake can be cultivated on suitable hardwood logs or growing blocks, making it an interesting choice for anyone curious about growing their own food. And a mushroom that brings people together over a good meal? Yeah, that feels just right for June.

July – Golden Chanterelle

(Image credit: Karl Ander Adami/Getty Images)

The golden chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius) is a cheerful match for July, as its warm yellow-orange color and gently wavy shape make it one of the most recognisable mushrooms for experienced nature-watchers.

It can be found in suitable woodland habitats during warmer months. Chanterelles grow in association with trees, making them part of a much bigger woodland relationship. That connection to the surrounding ecosystem makes this a fitting birth month mushroom for someone who values family, friendship and looking after their own.

August – Chicken of the Woods

(Image credit: Arterra/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)

Few birth month mushrooms are as weirdly wonderful as chicken of the woods (Laetiporus sulphureus). Its brilliant orange and yellow shelves can stand out dramatically against a tree trunk, making it a natural choice for August's confident and charismatic personalities.

This striking fungus is found in parts of the US and UK, often on trees or dead wood. It's an attention-grabbing sight, and a reminder that nature doesn't always need a delicate touch to be beautiful.

September – Porcini

(Image credit: Stefano Guidi/Getty Images)

September's practical and detail-oriented personalities are well represented by porcini (Boletus edulis), also known as – and get ready for the cutest name ever – penny bun. Beneath its rounded brown cap is a thick, solid stem, giving this birth month mushroom a robust appearance.

Porcini are associated with trees and are prized by experienced foragers and cooks. Finding them requires patience and attention to habitat, which makes this an apt match for people who like to do their homework before getting started. (You can also buy Porcini Mushrooms Spores from Amazon if you're interested).

October – Pink Oyster

(Image credit: lovelypeace/Getty Images)

I might be biased, but I love that October gets the most colorful match of all: the pink oyster mushroom (Pleurotus djamor). Its vivid pink and overlapping caps look almost too bright to be real, making it a wonderfully unexpected addition to the list.

Pink oysters are commonly grown at home in gourmet mushroom kits, but they prefer warmth and are less suited to cold outdoor conditions than grey oyster varieties. Their unusual color makes them a natural conversation starter, just like October's charming and people-savvy personalities.

November – Amethyst Deceiver

(Image credit: efenzi/Getty Images)

Alright, fine; I love the birth month mushroom for October, but this one is a true stunner! Still, with its rich violet coloring, the amethyst deceiver (Laccaria amethystina) is a natural fit for November's mysterious streak.

It can be found in woodland, where its small purple caps stand out against fallen leaves and dark soil. Its color may become less vivid as it ages, which only adds to its elusive reputation, and making it a perfect match for anyone who has a passionate side that not everyone gets to see straight away.

December – Shaggy Inkcap

(Image credit: imageBROKER/Sunshine Seeds/Getty Images)

December's birth month mushroom is the shaggy inkcap (Coprinus comatus), a distinctive mushroom with a tall white cap covered in – unsurprisingly, given its name – shaggy scales.

It can appear in grass, parks and disturbed ground, making it a potential find on an everyday walk rather than only deep in the woods. As it matures, its cap darkens and dissolves into an inky liquid – a surprisingly dramatic transformation for such an unassuming-looking mushroom, and making it well suited to our adventurous and slightly quirky babies born at the end of the year.

Of course, there's no scientific link between your birthday and a particular fungus, but that doesn't mean we can't have a little fun(gi) finding meaning in our birth month mushrooms, right down to their distinctive appearances and growing habits.

Whether yours is the sort that thrives in challenging condition, or a colorful attention-grabbing variety, there's meaning to be found in the world, wherever you look for it. And hey, if it means we have a unique mushi to call our own? So be it!

In most gardens, October is a pivotal transition period for perennials as they go from active growing and flowering to winter dormancy. As early-season bloomers, irises can look pretty tired by fall, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need care.

October iris care is all about preparing plants for dormancy and ensuring they’ll emerge healthy and flowering next spring. From preventing rot to managing pests and diseases, good care now ensures healthier growth next year.

Here, we’ll focus on October chores for bearded irises, the most commonly grown type, with notes on how care differs for Siberian and Japanese irises. Essential fall care includes trimming foliage, cleaning up around plants, dividing as needed, and managing mulch appropriately by iris type.

1. Trim Back Declining Foliage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Depending on where you live and garden, some or all of your iris foliage will be giving up the game by now. Much of the foliage will be yellow or dying. Use clean, sharp shears to remove spent leaves. For precise trimming around healthy foliage, try the Fiskars Titanium Micro-Tip Pruning Shears, available at Home Depot. Their narrow blades make it easier to snip away dying leaves without damaging neighboring growth.

In general, trim established plants back to about six to eight inches (15 to 20 cm). Leaving leaves intact can cause winter damage that collapses onto the rhizomes, increasing the risk of rot.

Leave any healthy green leaves intact, as they are still photosynthesizing and gathering energy for the plant to use next year. In milder climates, you might still see a lot of green leaves, so you’ll need to delay trimming until the plant has more yellowing leaves.

2. Clear out Garden Debris

(Image credit: Samantha Locking / Getty Images)

It’s very important to remove debris from around and under your irises before winter. Remove all fallen and dead leaves, stems, weeds, and other plant material and compost it, or, if diseased, dispose of it in the garbage.

This chore is crucial because leftover material can increase the risk of plants getting diseases or being infested with pests later. The iris borer lays eggs in dead foliage, which overwinter there and hatch in the spring. Removing debris also opens up airflow, reducing the risk of fungal infections.

If iris borers have been a problem in your garden, make a note to tackle them again in spring. A spinosad-based insecticide, such as Bonide Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew, available on Amazon, can help control newly hatched larvae before they burrow into the plants. Apply when new iris shoots reach around 4–6 inches tall (10–15 cm).

3. Check Rhizomes for Rot

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bearded irises store energy in fleshy rhizomes near the soil surface. They may rot if moisture levels are too high. It’s a good idea to check for and manage any areas of rot on rhizomes now, so they don’t get worse over winter. Brush back the soil from the tops of the rhizomes and inspect them for spots that look soft, mushy, or dark, or that have a bad smell.

Use a sharp, clean garden knife to cut out rotten areas until you reach healthy, firm rhizome tissue. A tool such as the Fiskars Big Grip Garden Knife, available at Amazon, is also handy for carefully lifting affected rhizomes to inspect them more closely. Disinfect the blade between cuts to avoid spreading infection. If a rhizome is severely rotted, it’s usually best to remove and discard it.

If you find a lot of rot, check drainage around the plants and make sure water isn’t pooling. Japanese and Siberian irises also grow from rhizomes, but these are generally less exposed than those of bearded irises. You can still check around the crowns for signs of rot or damage caused by excessive moisture.

4. Divide and Replant Irises

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Fall is generally a good time to divide bearded irises. However, October might be too late in some areas. In milder climates (zones 7 to 9), you can divide irises now. In colder areas, October is likely too late to move irises and expect them to establish before winter.

If you are dividing an iris now, lift the clumps carefully. A sturdy digging tool, such as the Radius Garden Root Slayer Shovel, available at Home Depot, has a serrated blade that makes it easier to dig around dense, established clumps. Take care not to damage the rhizomes as you lift them. Separate the rhizomes, ensuring each one has a healthy fan of leaves. Plant the divisions in suitable areas right away, making sure they have good drainage and that the rhizomes remain near the surface. Siberian and Japanese irises are best divided in spring.

If it’s too late to make divisions now, you can still plan ahead by identifying large clumps that could benefit from a spring division. Target bearded iris clumps that are spreading into dense patches, have a bare center, or have not produced as many flowers as in previous years.

Label or photograph the clumps you plan to target in spring, so you don’t forget. It’s not always easy to identify the overgrown irises in spring. The best time to divide next year is after flowering.

A little fall care goes a long way toward establishing healthy, flowering irises in spring. It’s easy to forget these early bloomers come fall, but don’t make the mistake of ignoring them. Irises need fall care to ease their way into winter in good health.

5. Avoid Mulching, or Mulch Lightly

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bearded irises are different from many perennials in that they generally should not be mulched over in winter. The rhizomes need to remain near the soil surface and slightly exposed to air and sunlight to stay dry and avoid rotting. Never cover them in heavy layers of mulch or compost.

If you have very cold winters, you can apply a thin layer of more breathable mulch to prevent frost heaving. Use pine needles or clean straw, like CleanStraw Longleaf Pine Straw Mulch from Walmart. Other types of irises can benefit from a more typical layer of mulch to retain moisture and as protection against cold.

6. Stop Feeding and Adjust Watering

(Image credit: Дмитрий Куруллин / Alamy)

Growth is slowing and stopping this time of year as irises prepare for winter dormancy. This means they no longer need fertilizer. Stop feeding irises now to avoid promoting fresh new growth that will only expend energy and freeze in winter.

You can also slow down your watering routine as temperatures drop, especially if your area is getting more rain. Rather than following a fixed schedule, check the soil every few days for moisture and water as needed. A Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available at Amazon, can help you monitor moisture levels and avoid overwatering. Newly transplanted divisions will need more consistent moisture as they establish roots, but take care not to leave the soil waterlogged.

Iris Care Essentials

Bonide Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew

Fiskars Big Grip Multi-purpose Garden Knife

Cleanstraw Longleaf Pine Straw Mulch

Thanksgiving falls reliably on the fourth Thursday of November, year after year. However, if you want your home filled with vibrant blooms right as the turkey hits the dining table, the most important month to give your Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) love and care is October.

Despite its name, the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) bears little resemblance to desert-dwelling cacti like the towering saguaros of the American southwest. It’s got no spines at all and wouldn’t survive a day in a hot, dry desert. These plants are tropical epiphytes, native to the coastal rainforests of southeastern Brazil. Its flattened, arching green stems feature pointed, claw-like serrations along the segment margins, giving rise to its popular nickname, the claw cactus.

But the true magic of this plant lies in its vibrant flowers, erupting in radiant shades of red, magenta, soft pink, coral-orange, pure white, and gold. Yes, the plant typically blooms from mid-November to early December. Still, you only get those pretty blooms next month if you devote a little time to their care this month. By making a few simple adjustments to light exposure, night temperatures, watering and feeding now, you guarantee a breathtaking holiday display that lasts for weeks.

Thanksgiving Cactus Care in October

October is a transitional bridge for indoor houseplants, as outdoor temperatures decline and home heating systems kick on across most northern regions. For your Thanksgiving cactus, this month represents a delicate shift, as active leafy vegetative growth halts and reproductive bud development takes over. While vivacious cultivars like White Christmas, Samba Brazil and Madame Butterfly offer distinct bloom colors and stem habits, they all share a few key care needs.

If your plant spent the summer vacationing on a shaded porch or patio, early October is the time to bring it indoors before night temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C). Depending on your USDA hardiness zone, the next few days are critical. While southern areas may have a little latitude, in chillier northern areas a couple of days of sharp temperature slides can have a massive impact.

(Image credit: Elena Grishina / Alamy)

A quick check of holiday houseplants now prevents environmental shock when transitioning them indoors. However, even if your cactus has spent the summer indoors, this is still a vital time to make adjustments. Before you get stuck into key container care such as light exposure and watering, it’s a good idea to invest in a soil probe that can give you a reliable idea of light and moisture levels. I’d recommend getting hold of a diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon, which can give you a solid heads-up about where your plant is at before you start.

1. Balance Light and Dark Needs

(Image credit: Евгения Матвеец / Getty Images)

Controlling light exposure in October is the single most important factor for triggering heavy flower bud formation. Thanksgiving cactuses are short-day (long-night) plants. During the day, position your cactus in a location that receives bright, filtered indirect sunlight. An unobstructed east or north-facing window sill is ideal. Avoid harsh, direct afternoon sun through south or west-facing glass, which scorches the flat green stem pads and turns them a stressed, purplish-red color.

Daytime light is only half the equation. Long dark nights are what induce flowering. To initiate flower buds, these plants require 12-14 hours of uninterrupted darkness every night for roughly 6 weeks. Even tiny bursts of artificial ambient light from living room lamps or passing streetlights can reset the plant's internal clock and stop bud formation. If needs be, gently move your cactus into a dark closet or cover it with a breathable cardboard box every evening from 6pm to 8am. Once tiny buds lock in at the tips of the green segments, you can place it back in indirect sun and leave it there for days and nights. In fact, it’s best not to move the plant after budding.

2. Provide Cool Temperatures

(Image credit: Nadezhda_Nesterova / Getty Images)

Alongside long nights, cool ambient air temperatures also help to initiate those all-important flower buds. Maintaining cooler indoor conditions during October reassures the plant that its natural blooming cycle is underway. The ideal temperature range for setting Thanksgiving cactus buds is between 55-65°F (13-18°C) at night, warming slightly to 65-70°F (18-21°C) during the day. If your plant is kept in a heated living room that stays at a constant 72°F (22°C), bud formation will be sparse or severely delayed.

If outdoor night temperatures in your region remain between 50-60°F (10-15°C) without dropping toward freezing, leaving your pot in a sheltered outdoor spot can work wonders. Alternatively, move the plant to an unheated bedroom, enclosed sunroom, or bright basement window well where nighttime temperatures run cooler. It’s well worth investing in a digital thermometer to help keep track of fluctuations. The AcuRite Digital Indoor Thermometer & Hygrometer, available from Amazon, helps you monitor daily high/low room temperatures and ambient air humidity.

3. Cut Back Watering and Pause Feeds

(Image credit: Katy Gold / Getty Images)

As fall days shorten, your Thanksgiving cactus's metabolic rate slows. Although native to rainforests, these plants grow attached to tree branches, so their roots are susceptible to root rot in soggy potting mix. In October, shift to a conservative watering routine. Allow the top 1-2 inches (2.5-5cm) of potting soil to dry out between waterings. When you do water plants, soak until moisture drains from the bottom, and empty the drainage saucer 15 minutes later so roots never sit in stagnant water.

You also need to pause feeding. High-nitrogen feeds force the plant to push out weak, soft foliage segments rather than flower buds. So stop all feeding in October and November. You can add a diluted liquid fertilizer in late winter after flowering finishes. Additionally, pay attention to indoor humidity as household heating switches on. Maintain an ambient relative humidity of 40-60% by placing the pot on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot bottom sits above the water line.

Placing your cactus alongside other moisture-loving tropical houseplants like ferns or calatheas helps buffer indoor humidity drops caused by household furnaces. You can also boost humidity levels with a reliable plant mister. The Gradvis Plant Mister from IKEA offers excellent pump action at a reasonable price. By establishing a consistent routine, you give your plant the precise signals it needs to set buds on stem tips.

4. Protect Developing Buds

(Image credit: AdrianHancu / Getty Images)

By late October, hopefully your efforts will reward you with tiny, jewel-like flower buds forming at the tips of the arching leaf segments. Once these buds appear, the plant enters its most sensitive phase. The primary threat to your upcoming holiday show is a frustrating phenomenon known as bud blast, where tight, healthy flower buds suddenly turn yellow, shrivel, and drop off the stems overnight.

Bud blast is usually caused by sudden environmental changes or physical disruption. Selecting a permanent, draft-free location for your cactus before buds form is vital. Keep the pot far away from forced-air heat vents, cold window drafts, exterior doors, and direct fireplace radiation. You can pick up under-door buffers like Under-Door Draft Stoppers from Lowe’s, which protect your sensitive indoor plants from drafts.

Most importantly, avoid rotating, moving, or repotting the plant once flower buds exceed a quarter-inch (60mm) in size. Even rotating the pot by 180 degrees alters the direction of light, causing the plant to release ethylene gas that severs the delicate stems attaching the buds to the leaf tips. Set your plant in its holiday display location, then step back and let your cactus get settled (and hopefully bloom merrily).

5. Inspect for Pests

(Image credit: Tomasz Klejdysz / Getty Images)

Pests love this plant’s fleshy stem segments. Catching infestations now ensures your holiday blooms aren’t ruined by unsightly damage. Inspect your plant once a week under good light, checking the upper and lower surfaces of the segments, stem joints, and soil line. If you do catch pests, it’s best to do so before you start to see those flowers emerging.

Mealybugs are among the most common pests, appearing as cottony masses tucked tightly into the joints between plant segments. Scale insects present as raised brown bumps along stem edges, which scrape off easily with a thumbnail. Spider mites leave dusty stippling across stem surfaces and webbing in leaf crotches, thriving in dry indoor air. Fungus gnats show up as tiny black flies fluttering around topsoil, indicating that the potting mix is too wet. Aphids chow down on tender new growth and flower buds, sucking sap and causing buds to drop prematurely.

Address any pests before full flower buds open. Gently wipe down infected leaf segments using a soft cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Alternatively, spray the foliage with a gentle, organic insecticidal soap or pure cold-pressed neem oil drench. I recommend Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Neem Oil Spray, available from Walmart, for an organic blast that is tough on soft-bodied pests but gentle on stem pads.

(Image credit: L_Shtandel / Getty Images)

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There is so much to love about a good container garden. Pots let you experiment with color, move plants around when a border needs a little extra something, and squeeze more greenery into even the smallest outdoor space.

The trouble is, when fall arrives and the first frost is on its way, all of those lovely pots? Well, they need a little extra attention if you want them to make it through the winter unscathed. (Something I learned the hard way during my early attempts at gardening; it was devastating).

Thankfully, my husband is a professional gardener, so I've learned to listen when he starts talking about protecting plants for winter. Because, while I'm tempted to leave everything where it is and hope for the best, he has put a lot of effort into teaching me that a little preparation now can make all the difference to how well plants survive the colder months.

What Your Container Garden Needs Before The First Frost

Temperatures are a little erratic this year, thanks to the ongoing El Niño, and things are set to be just as wildly unpredictable this winter. Planning ahead, then, is more important than ever.

So, if you've been wondering what to do with your container garden before temperatures drop, these are the three jobs that my husband recommends prioritizing.

1. Move Tender Plants

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When it comes to overwintering your container garden, my husband's first piece of advice is simple enough: figure out which of your plants can handle the cold and which can't.

"If you've got tender plants in containers, don't wait until the first frost is forecast to start thinking about where they're going to spend winter," he says. "Move them somewhere protected while the weather is still mild enough for them to adjust."

Plants in pots are more exposed to cold than plants growing in the ground, because their roots aren't insulated by the surrounding soil. Tropical plants, tender perennials, and many plants that have spent summer outside may need to be moved indoors or into a frost-free greenhouse, conservatory, or garage, depending on their light requirements.

Top tip: Before bringing plants inside, check their leaves, stems, and potting mix for pests. It's also worth moving them gradually into their new environment where possible, rather than taking them straight from a sunny patio into a dark corner indoors.

Shop Container Plant Winterizing Essentials:

Tlswshsy 2 Pack Plant Winter Protection Pot

Rio Hamza Trading 100% Natural Pine Bark Mulch Nuggets

Duck Duck Brand Small Bubble Cushioning Wrap

2. Group Your Outdoor Pots

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

If you've got containers that need to stay outside, my husband advises you group them together in a sheltered spot. (Well, what he actually said was to treat them like penguins and get them in a huddle, but close enough).

Why? "It means they're less exposed to cold winds, and you can give the pots a little extra protection," he says. "Just make sure you're grouping plants with similar needs, and don't block drainage holes or leave containers sitting in water."

Grouping pots against a sheltered wall can help reduce their exposure to wind and make them easier to protect. It won't make tender plants frost-proof, but it can be a useful measure for hardy plants that are staying outdoors.

Top tip: Try to choose a spot that offers protection without becoming waterlogged, and raise pots slightly on pot feet or bricks if necessary to help excess water drain away. Good drainage is particularly important during winter, when cold and wet compost can put roots under additional stress.

3. Get Insulating

(Image credit: freemixer / Getty Images)

One thing people often forget is that it's not just the foliage you need to think about. "The roots are sitting in a container that's exposed to cold air on all sides, so I always recommend giving them a little extra protection before the first frost arrives," says my husband. "You can wrap the outside of the pot with bubble wrap or hessian, and add a layer of mulch over the surface of the compost to help insulate the roots from temperature fluctuations."

Terracotta pots can be particularly vulnerable to cracking when moisture freezes and expands, so insulating the container can be helpful in exposed conditions. Bubble wrap provides an extra layer of insulation around the pot, while hessian is another option for wrapping containers.

Mulching the surface of the compost adds another layer of protection, helping to reduce temperature fluctuations around the roots. Well-rotted garden compost, manure, bark chips, straw, or shredded leaves can all work well, depending on the plant. "Just be sure to keep the mulch away from stems and crowns, and make sure excess water can drain freely," my husband adds.

Top tip: the important thing to remember is that insulation can help protect roots, but it won't turn a tender plant into a frost-hardy one. If you're growing plants that can't tolerate freezing temperatures, you'll still need to move them somewhere sheltered or frost-free.

It's important to remember that insulation is not a substitute for moving a frost-sensitive plant somewhere safe; the right approach depends on the plant, the container, and how cold your local winters become.

So, before the first frost arrives, check which plants need to move indoors, group the hardier containers in a sheltered spot, and protect exposed pots from the worst of the cold. It doesn't need to be an enormous job, either; honestly, just little time spent preparing now could help protect your plants through winter and leave you with a healthier collection to enjoy when spring comes around.

You can't ask for more than that, right?

Once a woodworker, always a woodworker. Marc Bricault may be an accomplished interior and architectural designer, but he started out as an artisan, and his work is still grounded in timber.

For a custom guest house in Whistler, he layered Douglas fir inside and out.

“We used fir because I really like the warmth of it and how it ages, and it’s a Pacific Northwest material,” says Bricault, who began his career as owner of Granville Island Woodworks and is now principal of Vancouver’s Bricault Design. “A lot of time spent up here is going to be in the winter. We just really wanted it to feel like a warm little cabin where, after a day outside on the slopes, you come and just feel cosy.”

When the homeowner, a longtime client, asked Bricault to add a guest house to her Whistler property, she wanted it to feel connected to the main house without blocking views. He and his team dovetailed the 1,268-square-foot structure into the landscape so deftly that it’s nearly camouflaged among conifers and shrubs.

He had a small section of rock blasted away so the narrow, two-storey structure could notch into the cliffside on one side of the property. The placement also preserves wildlife corridors used by local bears.

Angling upper walls away from the main home’s view lines, he extended the landscape over a series of walkways with tiered green roofs.

“I kind of grabbed the backyard and pulled it on top of the carport,” says Bricault. “We terraced along the way to have a really generously protected walkway from the carport to the little house, because of Whistler snow loads and so that you aren’t shovelling your walk every time you go to the guest house.”

Landscaping softens the rest of the edges. Working with High Country Landscape, Bricault used hardy, low-maintenance vegetation on the green roofs, then added trees to frame specific views: a paperbark maple outside the dining room, a red-leafed Japanese maple at the end of a walkway. A raised mound planted with perennials screens a neighbouring property.

Material choices help the structure blend in further. Black slate shakes give the exterior a “toothlike” form, “like a big rock,” says Bricault, reminiscent of Black Tusk, the jagged volcanic peak in nearby Garibaldi Provincial Park. Copper downpipes and fascia, still bright in places, will darken as they weather.

Under canopies and soffits, edge-grain fir adds warmth, running inside and onto interior walls and ceilings. Bricault’s woodworking roots show here and throughout the home, especially where cabinetry does more than one job — storage, room divider, design feature — and custom pieces blur the line between built-ins and furniture.

Take the entry, where a compact mud room turns the space into a functional landing spot. Fir millwork provides storage while creating separation from the dining area, and a built-in bench flows into open shelving.

A corner window looks toward a cliff face laced with green foliage. “We planted that whole back area with ferns, so it’s kind of a nice spot to sit and take off your boots,” says Bricault. The team also widened natural fissures in the rock to plant moss, he adds: “It’s starting to populate the side of that cliff because it’s in shade a lot of the time. It’s quite lovely when it’s wet.”

A powder room off the entry brings the exterior palette inside, with fir, copper, forest-green tile, soft green quartzite counters and a custom floating mirror edged in bent wood. A second wide window frames the mossy rock outside.

In the kitchen, green quartzite counters top fir cabinetry with copper-plated hardware, while glossy green ceramic tile runs along the backsplash and adjoining walls.

For the dining room, Bricault designed a custom white-oak table with an expandable top and fluting on the apron and legs. Project millworker and Bricault’s longtime collaborator Ted Belch produced the piece locally. A striped pendant overhead adds a playful touch.

Around the corner, a petite living room centres on a fir-lined bay window and glazed-tile fireplace. A concrete hearth extends to the foot of a staircase with cantilevered steps of FSC-certified arbutus. Slim vertical steel bars help support the treads and frame open shelving, continuing upstairs, where they become a guardrail in the sleeping quarters.

There, copper panels etched with a Japanese floral motif flank the bed above arbutus-burl side tables. Built-in drawers opposite make use of the depth created by the angled exterior walls. Motorized blinds disappear into recessed ceiling pockets.

The ensuite continues the home’s earthy palette with brown-green Italian porcelain tile, arbutus flooring and a custom fir vanity perched on fluted legs that feels like furniture. A free-standing tub sits beside a window framing mountain views, while millwork adds storage and separates the bathroom from the bedroom.

For Bricault, the guest house shows how much a small footprint can hold. “I think we managed to fit quite a bit into a very small stand-alone house,” he says. “It feels quite luxurious to me, and cosy and warm and very functional for the size of it.”

Architectural and interior design:Bricault Design

Construction:Vision Pacific Construction

Landscaping:High Country Landscape

Millwork:Ted Belch, Ebony Architectural Woodwork

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Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

801 — 3315 Cypress Pl., West Vancouver

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom apartment

Size: 2,018 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,991,000

Listed for: $2,550,000

Sold for: $2,300,000

Sold on: Aug. 10

Days on market in this listing: 118

Listing agent: Rahim Jivraj at eXp Realty

Buyers agent: Franco Diligenti PREC at Macdonald Realty

The big sell: The Cypress Park Estates community resides on the slopes of West Vancouver with properties designed to capture the far-reaching vistas that span Mount Baker to the Gulf Islands. Many of these view homes are detached but StoneCliff is a three-tower concrete residential condo development comprising 111 units that were constructed in the early 2000s. Occupying part of one of the towers is this triple-aspect corner unit that features the sleeping quarters on one side of the floorplan and the reception rooms on the other — deliberately arranged to take full advantage of the uninterrupted south-facing coastal views. The renovated interior features bespoke finishings that create a modern esthetic with custom cabinetry, contemporary light fixtures, and modern bathrooms. The complex provides a number of clubhouse amenities shared between residents of the three towers, and this unit comes with a private double garage and a monthly maintenance fee of $1,319.63.

9314 216 St., Langley

Type: Six-bedroom, four-bathroom detached

Size: 3,217 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,354,000

Listed for: $1,369,900

Sold for: $1,339,000

Sold on: Aug. 5

Days on market in this listing: 48

Listing agent: Rod Bahari PREC at Sutton Group — West Coast Realty

Buyers agent: Chandan Rathod at Sutton Group — Seafair Realty

The big sell: This spacious three-level home resides in Langley’s Walnut Grove district within the Redwood Estates neighbourhood. With six bedrooms and four bathrooms (including a two-bedroom basement suite), the house offers a versatile design and plenty of space for a growing family. The main floor has bright living and dining rooms with a traditional cross-hall layout complete with coffered ceilings and crown mouldings, while the kitchen has Shaker-style maple cabinets, an island, and stainless-steel appliances. Adjacent to the kitchen is an 18-foot-long family room with a gas fireplace, and views across the fully-fenced backyard. There are four generous-sized bedrooms upstairs including the primary suite with a walk-in closet and ensuite bathroom. In addition to the accommodation on the lowest level, there is a recreation room for use by the main house. The property has a double garage with lane access, and the home is air-conditioned and a new furnace has recently been installed.

4505 — 3833 Evergreen Pl., Burnaby

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom apartment

Size: 1,175 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,176,000

Listed for: $1,099,999

Sold for: $1,055,000

Sold on: June 30

Days on market in this listing: Seven

Listing agent: Adam Chahl PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Payam Nasernejad at faithwilson Christie’s International Real Estate

The big sell: This air-conditioned sky suite offers a bird’s-eye view of the area due to its position on the 45th floor within the master-planned City of Lougheed site which offers four newly-built residential towers within its five-acre Neighbourhood ONE community, as well as a three-storey central amenity building with fitness and wellness options for residents including a rooftop putting green. A convenient location next to Lougheed Mall with the SkyTrain and numerous retail choices is another bonus. This particular home has two balconies with glass-panel railings, three bedrooms (two are ensuited), laminate floors throughout the interior, white matte cabinets in the kitchen alongside integrated appliances including a french door refrigerator, and there is full-sized laundry. It comes with one parking stall in the underground garage, and a monthly maintenance fee of $723.61.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

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• Sold (Bought): Townhome in Burnaby's Crest subdivision offers greenbelt setting
• Sold (Bought): Strathcona sub-penthouse offers panoramic water, mountain vistas

By any measure, a wall tile install or overhaul can elevate any kitchen or bathroom into a brighter, cleaner, jazzier or classier space, depending on the tile style.

The job can be complicated and time-consuming, requiring the expertise of a pro, especially if using high-end materials like imported marble, zellige, porcelain or travertine. Or it can be quick and easy if you opt for DIY peel-and-stick types, which have come a long way from the cheap, plastic-looking tiles of old.

Tile types

Bathroom and kitchen wall tiles generally come in two main types: field and mosaic. Field tiles are larger than decorative tiles, allowing you to cover a bigger surface area.

Mosaic tiles are usually smaller, and are laid together on a large sheet with mesh backing, so you can place dozens at a time.

Ceramic is the most popular material for backsplash tiling because it’s made from clay that has been fired at a high temperature to make it hard and durable. When glazed, ceramic tiles are moisture- and stain-resistant.

Porcelain, a type of ceramic, but harder, denser, more durable and less porous, is also popular.

Natural stone tiles — milky white marble streaked with veins of grey and black; travertine with its dimpled texture and warm tones; smooth slate, made of sedimentary rock in shades of grey; and naturally water-resistant, classy granite — are all highly durable with a variety of textures and colours. They’re costlier and heavier than ceramic and trickier to install yourself.

Engineered materials like glass and cement are less expensive and more versatile. Glass is non-porous and easy to cut with the right tools.

Sealed cement tiles are super durable and are available in a variety of beautiful shapes and patterns. They are, however, heavier and thicker, so make sure your walls can support that extra weight.

Metal tiles are often made of shiny stainless steel but can also come in copper, brass and tin, all durable and water-resistant. They’re lighter than most materials and relatively easy to install.

Wood tiles come in many shapes and designs and often retain their natural grain look. They’re lightweight, affordable and easy to install but often need to be properly sealed to repel water.

As for shapes, backsplash tiles are available in grid-like square; subway-style rectangle; honeycomb hexagon; curvy arabesque; and argyle-like diamond. Popular designs include staggered rectangular subway; ceramic brick made to look like the real thing; zig-zaggy herringbone/chevron; and simple pre-set grid sheets.

Sticky situation

High-end, specialty tile installation is best left to the pros. Peel-and-stick tiles are easy enough for most people to do themselves.

Many interior designers, however, frown upon peel-and-stick as a low-rent solution for a high-end room.

“They definitely have a place,” says Sandra Flora of Vancouver’s Sandra Flora Home Design . “Maybe as a temporary update for a rental space or an RV, or if you’re on a fixed budget, but I would never substitute a peel-and- stick tile for the real thing. If you have your own home and you want your kitchen done right so it’s going to last, I would invest in permanent tiles.”

Flora says she can spot cheap peel-and-stick from across a room. “You’ll see lifting, peeling, wear and tear. Sometimes they pull the drywall right off when you try to remove them.”

Marie-Maude Hannan, developpement des affaires for Quebec-based Inoxia Walls , says her company’s SpeedTiles are made of the real thing — stone, glass, marble, metal and, soon, porcelain. And they come with a 10-year warranty.

“We have a few models that are groutable so once they’re installed nobody knows that they’re peel-and-stick because they look exactly the same as any traditional tile,” says Hannan. “You can’t tell them apart, I assure you.”

Against the walls

Laying traditional tiles can be an involved, multi-day process requiring wall sanding, spreading adhesive or mortar with a trowel, laying the tiles precisely, placing tile-spacers, one to two days of drying then grouting, then, after a few days of curing, sealing and caulking.

Peel-and-stick are much easier. “I’m not a handy person and I did my backsplash myself in one morning,” says Hannan, noting that, because the tiles are made of real materials, they do need to be cut with tools.

She says you can even install Inoxia’s tiles over existing tiles, provided the surface is clean, smooth, level and non-porous. If not, it would have to be primed to prevent it absorbing the adhesive.

Peel-and-stick tiles can be pretty unforgiving — if you make a mistake, you’re stuck, literally. Hannan says there’s a trick to avoid that. “Mix water and a bit of dish soap in an empty 500-750 ml spray bottle, spray the back of the tile with the solution and spread it over the entire tile with your hands. This will delay the bond for maybe 30 seconds to allow you to place it correctly.”

She says if you tire of the tiles after a few years you’ll have to remove them the same way you would with traditional tiles that were installed using mortar because the adhesive is so strong the wall will come off with the tile.

She says tiles that require grout can be installed on a shower wall but not the floor because they are so thin they could break. Also, “We don’t recommend the ones without grout in wet areas, not because of the adhesion but because, even though they’re really tight, there can be micro gaps in between the tiles (that could cause) mildew buildup. But for the grouted tiles, as long as the wall is prepped correctly, just as with any other tile, then there is no issue at all.”

Hannan says, depending on the type of tile, most can be cleaned with a washcloth, water and mild soap.

Matching tile with decor

Before selecting the style of tile, Flora first considers the style of the space she’s decorating.

“I’ll take the client’s artwork into consideration. If it’s very expensive, they’re not going to change that so I’ll work around it so the tiling complements it. I also take into consideration countertops, flooring, lighting, paint colour, hardware, cabinets, unless they’re willing to change it. I might get them to swap out the hardware on their kitchen cabinets and bring in a punch of cool colours and patterns to the tile.”

For design elements, Flora will often add a few decorative ceramic tiles with features such as handmade paintings. “There are some beautiful tiles that have an Amalfi Coast setting. You can add a mosaic type in behind a stove, sometimes in a shower insert. You can never go wrong with light colours and the odd few pops of forest greens, tans, creams. Pink or purple wouldn’t be something I would do because it’s too trendy. This isn’t something you’re going to do every few years because it’s very expensive.”

She prefers natural stone and simple ceramic tiles which she says never go out of style. “Subway tile is great when it’s used in the right layout and with the right colour grout. A lot of designers stay away from subway tile because they see it as dated. I don’t. I see it as timeless, classic.”

She also avoids grey, which she says can be very drab, especially in Vancouver in the fall and winter when we get a lot of rain. “If you bring in some lighter, brighter colours it opens up and brightens up a space and changes the mood.”

If you do opt for peel-and-stick, Hannan says it’s important to differentiate between quality tiles like Inoxia’s and cheaper vinyl or plastic options.

“I’m no expert in those but from what I’ve seen and heard, sometimes they can yellow or crack with time. Because they’re made to be a temporary solution the adhesive is not extra powerful so they can fall off. You also cannot put them over heat so (they won’t work) as a backsplash behind your stove because they’ll burn. Our peel-and-stick is much faster, much easier, but look exactly the same. It’s the best of both worlds.”

Related

• Rewiring the way we think about lighting
• Set the stage to showcase your house for sale

If you want to get the most for your money at the garden center, it helps to know which plants give you the biggest return on your investment. Some plants grow quickly enough to create a privacy hedge in just a few years, while others provide landscape interest across multiple seasons. Many produce absolutely beautiful blooms, while others can be easily propagated to fill out your landscape for free, without spending another dime.

I'm Gardening Know How's Digital Community Manager and in-house plant shopping expert. I'm also a former garden center manager with over 20 years of experience, so I know which plants give gardeners the biggest bang for their buck at the cash register.

This is the latest installment in my Garden Center Secrets series, where I share Insider tips only garden center employees know to help you shop smarter at the nursery. Here are the plants worth spending your money on.

1. Panicle Hydrangea

(Image credit: Wut_Moppie / Shutterstock)

If you want a plant that definitely earns its keep in the garden, panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) are hard to beat. Unlike some other types of hydrangeas, these reliable bloomers produce flowers every year, regardless of when or how you prune. This takes away one of the biggest frustrations gardeners have with hydrangeas: wondering whether you’ll actually get flowers this year.

This species also puts on a spectacular show, producing large, cone-shaped blooms that often emerge in one color and gradually change to richer, more vibrant shades as the season progresses.

Depending on the cultivar, they can grow in full sun or part shade in USDA zones 3–9, and a small, inexpensive 1-gallon plant can become a substantial landscape plant in just a few years. Plant several together, and you can even create an attractive flowering privacy hedge.

And there’s another way these hydrangeas can give you more for your money: they’re surprisingly easy to propagate from cuttings. In fact, I have even propagated them accidentally after leaving some of my clippings on the ground over winter.

Shop Panicle Hydrangeas

First Editions 3 Gal. Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea Shrub

Proven Winners Colorchoice 6" Limelight Panicle Hydrangea

Groundbreaker Ruby Hydrangea

2. Cranesbill Geranium

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

When it comes to getting the most bang for your buck from a perennial, few plants can compete with hardy cranesbill geranium ‘Rozanne.’ The price of this plant may catch you off guard, as it can cost a little more than some other perennials (though Nature Hills stocks them for about $20), but this is one plant where the extra investment is well worth it.

This is one of the longest-blooming perennials you can add to your garden in zones 4–8. Its violet-blue, saucer-shaped flowers appear in abundance above deep green foliage that remains attractive even when the plant isn’t blooming, and the blooms just keep coming from late spring well into fall.

But here’s where ‘Rozanne’ really earns its keep: that little plant you bring home can grow into a 2-3 foot clump in just a season or two, without becoming invasive. It can handle everything from moist soil to well-drained conditions and even periods of drought. It grows happily in full sun or part shade, making it an easy fit for just about any spot in the landscape.

And once your plant gets established, it can easily be divided and replanted elsewhere in the garden. So that initial investment can eventually give you even more plants to fill your landscape.

3. Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry

(Image credit: Inna Giliarova / Shutterstock)

Serviceberry (Amelanchier × grandiflora 'Autumn Brilliance') is one of those trees I think just about every landscape should have because it offers something for nearly every season. It’s an especially useful small landscape tree, spanning zones 3–9, and you’ll often find it offered in both tree and shrub forms. The tree forms are compact enough to plant safely near the corner of your house, making them an excellent choice for foundation plantings.

You can pick up a small starter serviceberry at Walmart for a reasonable price.

I picked serviceberry for this list because it provides something interesting in just about every season. In very early spring, small white flowers cover the branches, often blooming before many other plants have even started to wake up. That makes them an important early source of food for pollinators when there aren’t many other flowers available.

Those flowers are followed by sweet, edible, blueberry-like fruits that can be enjoyed by both people and wildlife. So you get a harvest for yourself while also adding an excellent food source for birds and other wildlife in your yard.

And serviceberry doesn’t quit when summer is over. Its foliage provides beautiful seasonal interest in fall, often turning vibrant shades before dropping. In winter, the attractive, multicolored bark adds welcome color and texture to an otherwise dreary landscape.

4. Ornamental Grass

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Ornamental grasses are some of the most overlooked plants in the garden, yet they can offer some of the best bang for your buck. A single small potted grass can grow into a dramatic specimen in just a few years, filling a large area of the landscape for a fraction of what you might spend on a similarly sized shrub. Some varieties can reach 6 feet tall or more, creating an impressive focal point while adding movement and texture to the garden. Of course, not every landscape needs a 6-foot-tall grass, and there are plenty of dwarf and compact varieties that can fit into almost any garden.

Beyond their size and versatility, ornamental grasses provide structure throughout the seasons. Depending on the variety, they can also add beautiful winter interest, with seedheads that stand well into the colder months. And when it comes to maintenance, many require little more than a simple cutback in early spring before new growth begins.

They can also become an investment that keeps giving. Once a grass has had a few years to establish into a substantial clump, you can divide it in early spring or fall using a shovel or sharp blade to separate a portion of the root ball from the main plant. Replant those divisions elsewhere in your landscape, and one plant can eventually become several.

Just be selective about the grasses you bring home. Look for native species or well-behaved cultivars suited to your area, and always check whether a particular variety has a history of becoming invasive.

Shop Ornamental Grasses

Proven Winners Prairie Winds 'October Sky' Switch Grass

Dwarf Purple Fountain Grass

Proven Selections All Gold Japanese Forest Grass

5. Catmint

(Image credit: Fotolinchen / Getty Images)

Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is hard to beat when it comes to stretching your garden budget. Depending on the variety, these plants typically grow anywhere from 12 to 36 inches tall and wide, making them incredibly versatile. You can tuck them into just about any corner or section of the garden that needs a splash of color in zones 3–8.

Some older catmint varieties can be prone to sprawl or flop open, but the recently introduced Cat’s Meow variety, available from Proven Winners via Amazon, maintains a more attractive, rounded mound that is often mistaken for lavender.

One of the best things about catmint is how easy it is to grow. It thrives in dry soil and easily handles drought conditions, so it doesn’t ask much from you once it’s established. After that first flush of blooms in spring, give the plant a good cutback to encourage a more compact, tidy shape while also promoting another round of blooms for an even longer display.

Catmint is also a fantastic choice for low-maintenance landscapes. It’s deer- and rabbit-resistant, has a long blooming period, and naturally forms a dense, rounded shape that works beautifully along borders, in front-of-house plantings, or throughout a perennial garden. Its aromatic foliage is another bonus, and its flowers are highly attractive to pollinators.

And the value doesn’t stop with the original plant. Like many perennials, catmint can be divided in early spring or fall, allowing you to turn one established plant into several new plants for other areas of the landscape.

6. Black-Eyed Susans

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) is one of those perennials you can almost forget about until summer arrives and suddenly they burst into bloom. And what a welcome sight they are, especially when some of the earlier-blooming perennials are starting to fade, and the landscape needs a fresh splash of color.

These tough, long-blooming perennials produce masses of golden, daisy-like flowers with unmistakable dark brown central cones that return year after year. Once established, they can gradually spread to create even more color in the landscape. They look especially impressive planted in masses, but they also make excellent cut flowers.

Another reason black-eyed Susan offers so much value is how easily it can be divided. In spring, established plants can be divided to create even more color throughout your landscape or to share with family and friends. And when fall arrives, resist the temptation to cut those flowerheads back. The dark seed cones provide wonderful winter interest and remain attractive well into the colder months. Even better, those seeds provide an important food source for small birds.

They’re also remarkably adaptable. Black-eyed Susans perform well in full sun or part shade in zones 3–9, grow happily in average garden soil, and can tolerate dry conditions once established. Many varieties are native to North America, making them an excellent choice for creating a beautiful, resilient, and wildlife-friendly landscape.

Be sure to look for Black-eyed Susans in the clearance section in fall after the blooms have faded. You might even find an established plant at an even better price!

Plant Addicts has a great selection of black-eyed Susan plants, including the newly launched Treasure Trove variety, which offers superior disease resistance and is less prone to flopping.

How to Get Even More Bang For Your Buck

If you really want to stretch your garden budget, there are a few more tricks that can save you a surprising amount of money. Sometimes the best value isn't finding the cheapest plant; it's finding a way to turn one small investment into an entire garden.

• Grow from Seed
  One of the easiest ways to save money is to grow perennial flowers from seed rather than buying established gallon-size plants. A packet of seeds may cost just a few dollars, compared with $15, $20, or more for a single large perennial at the garden center. You'll have to wait a little longer for those tiny seedlings to become substantial plants, but the savings can be enormous. Some great perennials to try from seed include purple coneflower, Shasta daisy, columbine, yarrow, foxglove, lupine, and bee balm.
• Divide and Multiply
  Another smart investment is choosing perennials that naturally form larger clumps and can be divided into multiple plants over time. Hostas, sedum, daylilies, iris, phlox, garden peonies, and astilbe are all excellent examples. Start with one healthy plant, let it establish for a few years, and eventually you can divide it to create new plants for other parts of your landscape.
• Buy in Bulk
  Finally, don’t overlook those smaller plants tucked away in six-packs or flats. They may look tiny compared to the gallon-size perennials sitting beside them, but buying several smaller plants at once can offer significant savings. They’ll take a little longer to fill in, but with a bit of patience, those small plants will grow into the same beautiful garden for considerably less money.