Organic Gardening News

Ah, air conditioners. They are sort of like compost piles: useful, even essential, but pretty darned unappealing to look at. So no wonder you fancy hiding them behind a couple of better-looking plants. Trouble is, most AC units are picky about what gets close to them. If you are thinking of hiding your unit with leafy plants, be on notice: if you restrict the airflow to the air conditioner, you may lose that cold air entirely.

Beyond the obvious visual frustration of an industrial metal box ruining your patio view, there is also the hum-and-buzz of the compressor running all summer long. If this is all sounding like a bit of a nightmare, take heart. If you choose the right types of shrubs, hiding the AC unit is possible. You just have to select the appropriate plants for the purpose, and grow them at an appropriate distance.

Fortunately, evergreen shrubs offer a brilliant workaround. Their dense foliage doesn't just block line of sight: the thick leaves and woody stems naturally muffle high-frequency sound waves, creating a quieter backyard vibe. Planted correctly during late summer, these robust specimens establish quickly in warm ground, concealing a noisy eyesore behind a lush, gentle living screen that requires minimal long-term care and maintains its soothing presence all year round.

Best Shrubs to Conceal AC Units

Selecting plants to screen that bulky AC unit involves some of the same criteria you might apply to making friends in the office. You want to pick individuals that are steady, stable, and know how to be friendly, without encroaching on precious space. In the case of shrubs and AC units, you’ll want a clearance of 3 feet (1 m) on all sides of the unit, and twice that above it. The shrubs in this selection have dense foliage to block the view and muffle noise, and they hold onto that foliage all year long. They also have roots that don’t spread enough to impede the machine.

Before planting these low maintenance shrubs, assess your unit's layout and service access needs. HVAC technicians need clear access to electrical panels and service valves, so never plant a solid wall on all four sides. Leave a removable decorative trellis or a 3-foot (90 cm) clearance path for maintenance. With the practical requirements of the technicians sorted, you can focus on the needs of the plant.

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These shrubs are fine for summer planting, but consider your hardiness zone and existing soil conditions before planting. Soil right next to house foundations and heat-venting AC fan exhausts dries out twice as fast. Check soil moisture before planting to ensure long-term survival. Use a good soil diagnostic tool, such as the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon. This gives you real-time moisture readouts to see whether the soil near those hot AC exhaust vents is drying out.

Where conditions are heavy clay or sand, blend a little organic matter (such as aged compost) into the planting hole to help with drainage. It’s also a good idea to add a little biochar, such as Wakefield Premium Biochar Soil Conditioner from Lowe’s to protect soil nutrients and help with moisture retention. Add a couple of inches of a light organic mulch, such as a shredded hardwood bark or composted leaf mold. Then water shrubs deeply. Keep watering through the growing season, to help these shrubs develop strong, deep roots.

1. Boxwood

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Your best bet when trying to mask an ugly AC unit (and that’s pretty much all of them) is to select evergreen shrubs with a compact habit. These are easier to maintain than sprawling types. For this, the quintessential evergreen is boxwood (Buxus spp). These are self-contained evergreens and will grow in sun, partial sun or even deep shade. They are drought tolerant and thrive in hardiness zones 5-9. You can choose from a range of boxwood shrubs, such as Green Velvet, Sprinter and Calgary Boxwood.

They are great for structural screening, thanks to their small, leathery leaves that form a living wall of green. This thick canopy acts as an effective acoustic barrier. Boxwoods flourish in container gardening schemes if you choose a weather-resistant planter with drainage holes. Add a little Espoma Organic Plant-tone from Walmart for a slow release of microbes that promotes steady root growth and vibrant foliage.

Boxwoods grow up at around 6in (15 cm) growth per year. While this doesn’t sound all that astonishing, these shrubs rapidly fill out their dense interior leaves, giving you a solid green acoustic wall faster than almost any other structural shrub. Perfect if you want a set-it-and-forget-it shape that won't sprint into your AC clearance zone.

2. Arborvitae

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If you’re like me, you’ve planted arborvitae plants (Thuja spp.) like Green Giant that shoot up quickly, creating a tall, deep wind break. But these are not the best options to put on AC duty. Instead, use narrow varieties like Emerald Green (T. occidentalis). They top out at 10 feet (3 m) and maintain a narrow 3-foot (1 m) spread, offering year-round color in zones 2-7. Buy Emerald Green Arborvitae from Fast Growing Trees. Their soft, scale-like foliage traps ambient mechanical noise very well.

Dwarf globe cultivars like Fire Chief or Mr. Bowling Ball reach 3-4 feet (0.9-1.2 m) tall and wide without requiring heavy pruning. They prefer full sun to partial shade and moist, well-draining soil. Just avoid planting them directly in the blast path of hot AC exhaust air. Acid-loving arborvitae shrubs benefit from a sprinkling of Espoma Organic Holly-Tone Fertilizer, available from Lowe’s. This organic feed supplies essential sulfur and iron to keep needles rich and vibrant.

With arborvitae shrubs, you can expect fast vertical screening. This evergreen shoots up at a steady 12 inches (30 cm) per year in its early years, making it one of the quickest ways to build a tall, narrow sightline barrier without invading your AC unit's footprint.

3. Mediterranean Cypress

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Narrow cypress varieties are a top choice for hiding an outdoor AC unit, with their dense, evergreen foliage and narrow waistline. A line of regular Mediterranean cypress (aka Italian cypress) grows like a row of 50 feet (15 m) tall exclamation points with 5 foot spread, narrowing at the crown. This will hide your AC, but may be too tall to make the cut for this gig. Instead, pick a dwarf cultivar like Tiny Tower (C. s. 'Monshel') that tops out at 10 feet (3m) tall. They thrive in zones 7-10. Buy Italian Cypress from Nature Hills for mass planting.

Thriving in full sun and heat, this tough fast-growing evergreen tolerates drought once settled. Just don’t allow them to sit in soggy soil. If your soil is clay-based, it’s a good idea to blend a few scoops of coarse sand, a grit-rich soil, or a cactus mix such as Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix from Walmart into the planting hole. This will prevent waterlogging and root rot.

Dwarf Italian cypress shoots up quickly, although it’s fair to say that its dwarf habit keeps its footprint narrow. That said, it gains 2 feet (60 cm) of height per year when young. While it is one of the fastest choices on the list, it also manages to keep a neat 2-foot (60 cm) waistline.

4. Inkberry Holly

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Inkberry holly (Ilex glabra) is a broadleaf evergreen. Unlike close relatives, its leaves are not prickly but smooth, and its fruit is dark. It prefers damp acidic soil and full sunshine. Inkberry holly can grow to 10 feet (3 m) tall and about half that wide in zones 4-11. For something smaller, look at cultivars like 'Densa' that grow to 6 feet (2 m) in height, or 'Compacta' that stop at 4 feet (1 m) tall. These shrubs thrive in USDA hardiness zones 4-11. You can buy Proven Winners Gem Box Inkberry Holly Live Plants from Walmart for low hedges, small specimens, and containers.

As a native, inkberry holly supports local pollinators while offering year-round cover. It thrives in damp, acidic soils and tolerates partial shade. If your utility area sits in a low-lying spot that collects rainwater, this moisture-tolerant shrub is ideal. You can give your inkberry a boost by treating it to a little seaweed or kelp feed. Buy GS Plant Foods Organic Concentrated Liquid Kelp from Amazon. This feed is packed with vitamins and minerals to help hollies resist heat stress and transplant shock.

Your inkberry will fill out steadily, growing into a dense acoustic screen without requiring constant pruning. It offers fast visual fill, adding 12 inches (30 cm) per year, quickly knitting its fine branches together into a thick, sound-dampening screen that looks complete in just a couple of seasons.

5. Skip Laurel

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Skip or schip laurel (Prunus laurocerasus 'Schipkaensis') is a broadleaf evergreen. This cherry laurel is known for its narrow habit, while reaching 10-18 feet tall (3-6 m). It makes an excellent, low-maintenance privacy hedge with its upright growth habit and dense foliage. It is also cold hardy, thriving in zones 5-9. These shrubs shrug off urban pollution and salt spray, and thrive in most soils, as long as they offer good drainage. You can buy Skip Laurel Shrubs from Fast Growing Trees.

If your outdoor AC unit is located under a deck or high tree canopy, this is ideal. Its large, glossy leaves reflect light and provide superior acoustic dampening. Delicate white spring flower spikes add seasonal interest. It grows vigorously, so trim away any stray branches drifting toward your AC unit. A little fungicide, such as Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart, protects these laurels against powdery mildew and leaf spot. This is the quickest grower on the list if you need to block a loud AC unit ASAP, putting on 2 feet (24 inches) per year. However, it will need some annual summer trimming to maintain good flow around the unit.

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

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Planting a few fast-growing shrubs is just the ticket to cool down a sun-drenched spot in the yard or on the patio. Besides providing shade, plants release cooling water vapor through transpiration, so they consistently add moisture to the air, driven by sun and heat. Plants with dense foliage or large leaves tend to give off the most moisture.

When choosing shade shrubs for the garden, be sure to add the colors green, blue, and violet, which are considered cooling, calming colors for the garden. Shrubs with yellow foliage and red or orange flowers may increase the hot vibe, so stick to shrubs with shades of green, blue, and violet.

Summer Planting Requires Extra Care

Nursery container-grown shrubs can be planted during the summer, but you should take extra precautions. Plant when the sky is overcast or during the early evening when it is cooler, then water deeply. Also, keep the plant well watered until it is established. You may need to water daily if it is hot enough or every other day. This deep root watering tool from Amazon is really useful for helping trees and shrubs to establish and develop a strong, deep root system.

However, avoid fertilizing in the heat of summer. Adding 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) of mulch will keep the roots cool and moist. Place the mulch at least 4 inches from the base of the shrub.

Fast-Growing Shrubs for Cooling Shade

Whether you design a private reading nook surrounded by shrubs or a mixed border along a hot, western exposure, here are fast-growing shrubs that will put you in the cooling zone. Be sure to read the plant tags and choose shrubs suitable for your USDA hardiness zone.

1. Viburnum

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Viburnums (Viburnum spp.) include deciduous and evergreen shrubs in varying heights that include some North American natives. They feature flowers, mostly white, as well as colorful fall leaves. Some varieties also produce fruit in the fall, which is relished by birds. Viburnums grow 1 to 2 feet (0.3 to 0.6 m) a year. Depending on the variety, viburnums prefer full sun to light shade and well-draining soil. Add organic matter to the soil when planting to increase fertility and drainage.

Good ones to try include Arrowwood (V. dentatum), which grows 6 to 12 feet tall and wide (1.8 to 3.7 m) in USDA zones 3 to 8, and produces blue-black fruit. American cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus var. americanum) grows 5 to 8 feet in zones 2 to 7, and produces red fruit in late summer. Leatherleaf viburnum (V. rhytidophyllum) is evergreen to semi-evergreen with white flowers in spring and red to black berries in fall. It grows 10 feet (3 m) tall and wide in zones 5 to 8.

Proven Winners Colorchoice 5" White Blue Muffin Arrowwood Viburnum

Bailey Compact American Cranberrybush

Leatherleaf Viburnum

2. Ninebark

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Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) is a tough, drought-tolerant Eastern North American native shrub that grows up to 8 feet (2.4 m) tall in zones 2 to 8. It is known for its exfoliating bark, which shows in winter after the leaves drop.

Several cultivars are offered with foliage colors such as purple, yellow, chartreuse, and bicolor. ‘Diabolo’ ninebark features purple foliage and creamy white flowers in summer. ‘Snowfall’ sports dark green foliage and white or pink flowers.

Ninebark does well in slightly acidic, well-drained soil in full to part sun. It tolerates multiple soil conditions, including clay.

Diabolo Ninebark

3. Panicle Hydrangea

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Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) bloom from midsummer to fall on new growth, so you don’t have to worry about late freezes zapping the flower buds. Their strong stems support conical-shaped flower clusters, typically white, changing to pink or red.

Panicle hydrangeas tolerate more sun than other types of hydrangeas but still prefer morning sun and afternoon shade in well-draining soil in zones 3 to 8.

Their height depends on the cultivar, but to provide more shade, choose the taller varieties like ‘Quick Fire,’ ‘Pinky Winky,’ ‘Limelight,’ ‘Vanilla Strawberry,’ and ‘Fire Light,’ which grow to 8 feet (2.4 m) tall and wide. ‘Phantom’ hydrangea features huge white flower heads and quickly grows up to 10 feet (3 m) tall and wide.

First Editions Plants Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea

Proven Winners Colorchoice 5" 'Limelight' Panicle Hydrangea

Green Promise Farms Proven Winners Quick Fire Fab Hydrangea

4. Rose of Sharon

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Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) grows quickly into a vase shape from 8 to 12 feet tall (2.4 to 3.7 m). The hibiscus-like flowers bloom non-stop from summer to fall and attract pollinators. Flower colors in pink, red, blue, white, purple, violet, and bicolor are available in single and double types.

Older varieties tend to reseed easily, but many new cultivars are sterile, eliminating that problem. Look for ‘Diana,’ ‘Aphrodite,’ ‘Azurri Blue Satin,’ ‘Orchid Satin,’ ‘Helene,’ and the ‘Sugar Tip’ series.

Rose of Sharon prefers full sun and tolerates heat, humidity, and drought in zones 5 to 8.

New Life Nursery & Garden Aphrodite Rose of Sharon

Proven Winners Azurri Blue Satin Rose of Sharon

Sugar Tip Rose of Sharon

5. Dappled Willow

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Dappled willow (Salix integra 'Hakuro-Nishiki') trees are coveted for their pretty variegated foliage that flows like a fountain. Their multicolored leaves are a striking pink, white, and apple green. Hardy in zones 4 to 10, they grow almost anywhere.

Dappled willow prefers a moist, fertile soil in full to part sun. It grows 8 to 10 feet (2.4 to 3 m) tall and wide. Pruning the foliage a couple of times a season brings a flush of new foliage. Catkins produced in spring persist into fall.

Japanese Willow – Salix 'Hakuro Nishiki'

6. Crape Myrtle

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Fast-growing crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) trees can reach their height in one season! The heat-loving shrub blooms from midsummer to fall in showy shades of red, pink, white, lavender, and purple ruffled flowers. When autumn arrives, leaves change to yellow, orange, or red.

Crepe myrtle grows from 6 to 30 feet (1.8 to 9 m) tall depending on the variety, in zones 6 to 9. If the top growth dies back during an extreme winter, it will grow back from the roots. Exfoliating bark adds winter interest.

First Editions Plum Magic Crape Myrtle

Adding fast-growing shrubs to your landscape will soften the edges, bring soothing green colors, and actually reduce the ambient temperature through leaf transpiration, especially if the shrubs are grouped together.

One indeterminate cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) in decent soil can hand over a couple of pounds (1kg) a week once it hits full stride, and two plants will bury a small family. The crop sets its own deadline, too. A cherry tomato goes from perfect to split overnight when a storm follows a run of hot, rainless days.

Most advice about growing cherry tomatoes ends at the harvest. The real work starts there. The plant has no interest in whether the kitchen has caught up, so the response has to move in two directions at once – what is already picked, and what the vine does from here.

Eight Moves for a Runaway Harvest

A few of the moves take an afternoon, and others take five minutes with a pair of snips like these from Amazon. Start with whichever side is more important that week.

1. Pick at the First Blush of Color

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Tomato cracking is a plumbing problem, not a disease. The fruit pulls water in faster than its skin can stretch, so one heavy rain on the back of a dry spell splits half a crop overnight. Picking earlier sidesteps that. It works because a cherry tomato seals itself off from the vine the moment real color appears, and what happens after that happens without the plant. Then you can turn green tomatoes red by just leaving them out on the counter. If your cherry tomatoes are producing heavily, walk the rows every other morning rather than holding out for full color. If any slip past you, cracked tomatoes are perfectly fine to eat.

2. Keep Them Out of the Fridge

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Refrigeration costs more than it saves. Somewhere below 55F (13C) the aroma compounds start breaking down and the texture goes mealy, which accounts for most of what is wrong with a supermarket tomato. A counter does better. Ripe ones keep several days in a single layer, stem scars down, somewhere out of direct sun. Green fruit picked ahead of a storm colors up in a paper bag with a banana tucked in for ethylene – a gas naturally emitted by bananas that speeds up ripening. Anything that doesn't turn red pickles beautifully.

3. Freeze them Whole on a Sheet Pan

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Freezing tomatoes whole is the easiest way to go: no blanching, no peeling. Wash and dry a batch, then spread it in one layer across a sheet pan from Amazon. Freeze them solid before bagging so they stay loose rather than welding into a brick. The skins slip off under a warm tap later. Straight from frozen, they collapse into sauce quicker than they can fresh.

4. Roast them on a Tray

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Soft ones and anything that sat a day too long belong here. Halve them and toss with olive oil and salt, then hold a low oven around 300F (150C) until they slump and go jammy at the edges – a couple of hours, unhurried. A full tray reduces to about two cups as the moisture leaves and the sugars pull together, and what comes out is far darker than what went in. Freeze it flat in portions – it thaws into sauce, or lands on bread as is.

5. Dry the Smallest Ones

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Drying tomatoes is a great choice for the littlest specimens. Less moisture inside means less time on the trays, and they finish evenly instead of toughening outside while the middle stays damp. Halve them cut sides up and run a food dehydrator from Amazon at about 135F (57C) until they feel like leather rather than brittle chips. An oven set as low as it goes will manage it, at the cost of the kitchen for most of a day. Jars come next, shaken daily for a week; water beads on the glass mean another round of drying.

6. Save Seeds from the Best Plant

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Only open-pollinated plants are worth saving from – hybrid seed comes back as something nobody planned. To save tomato seeds, squeeze the pulp of a few good ones into a jar with a splash of water, then leave it alone. A pale film forms across the top within a couple of days. That film is doing the work: the ferment strips off the gel coat that blocks germination and knocks back several seedborne diseases. Rinse, then dry the seed flat on a plate. Kept cool and dark, they will still come up even several years later.

7. Top the Vine

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Indeterminate types climb until frost stops them, adding flowers that have no chance of finishing. Pruning tomatoes by cutting the growing tip roughly a month ahead of the average first frost redirects what remains into what is already on the vine, and it opens the canopy in the bargain. Determinate plants set their whole crop at once and need none of this. Thin the lowest leaves while the snips are out, since airflow near the soil tends to be poor by late summer.

8. Up the Potassium

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Nitrogen at this stage buys foliage. Fertilize your tomatoes with a blend where potassium leads, such as Tomato-tone from Home Depot at 3-4-6, supports fruit quality instead of another flush of leaves. Water counts for just as much. Deep and regular beats a splash whenever someone remembers. Uneven moisture is behind the splitting, and behind most of the blossom end rot that gets blamed on soil calcium. A harvest like this is a good problem. Keep the water steady and the plant will go on handing fruit over right up to frost.

Cherry Tomato Essentials

Cosori Food Dehydrator

Espoma Organic Tomato-Tone 3-4-6

9 X 13-Inch Baking Sheet

The last few weeks, I’ve been loving seeing all the bees and butterflies doing their rounds and collecting supplies from all the salvia, helenium and flowering oregano currently bobbling in clouds around the backyard. But as early bloomers start to fade and gaps start appearing in beds, my friendly pollinators face the dreaded nectar gap. So I’m turning my attention to another vibrant summer stalwart that I know will bring on a flurry of late summer blooms, and that’s the aster.

There are two word-related things I love about growing asters. First, in floriography (the language of flowers), asters represent patience, which links up nicely with their late summer reputation as superheroes of the second wind. Another lovely association is that the name “aster” comes from the Greek for “star” (astro) and a goddess who wept star dust on the earth, prompting a trail of purple-blue blooms to bloom. The luminescent lavender-blue petals and teensy star-like buds, typical of varieties like Fikart’s Aster and Peachie’s Pick Stokes Aster from Plant Addicts, certainly make me think of summer stars twinkling in borders and pots.

Asters make generous flowering additions if planted now, with an astonishing capacity for blooms that go on for weeks and weeks. This is no fleeting summer fling. Those starry pastel and bubblegum tones add instant, lush daisy dynamics that can take you all the way through fall. And because they are perennials, they won’t just be fuelling migrating monarchs and other late summer pollinators this year: they’ll also be back next year for another star-studded performance. Here’s how easy it is to transform your sleepy midsummer gaps into a symphony of stars.

Why Plant Asters Now?

Now is the perfect time to plant asters of all hues. If you are after the king of the purples, go for Grape Crush New England Aster from Nature Hills. Or if you’re after a candy pink shade with more of a frilly look, you can get Proven Winners Henry III Pink Asters from Plant Addicts. From wild aromatic asters to classic New England showstoppers, planting in August gives instant gratification, while tapping into optimal soil conditions to help roots establish in record time.

Planting asters in August solves one of the trickiest gardening puzzles: deciding where you have room. Early flowering perennials have peaked, making bare patches and tired borders painfully obvious. You can easily slot asters where their color will do the most good. Bye-bye to early summer casualties, scrappy gaps, and faded bedside glamor – hello, jewel pinks, juicy purples, and twinkly blues!

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The soil should be pleasantly warm, so aster starts and young plants can root and establish at lightning speed. If you’re not sure and want to check, use a thermometer like the Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Thermometer from Amazon. Plus, midsummer sun angles and changing shadow patterns are fully visible now. Planting now lets you position your asters in spots that catch every last drop of golden afternoon light.

Just work a sprinkling of Espoma Organic Chicken Granular Manure from Walmart into the soil at planting time for a gentle, slow-release of nutrients to keep blooms powering on for longer. Planting asters now means you provide a critical lifeline for migrating monarchs and native bees. From the sky-blue spray of a Frikart's aster to the purpliest of all purples (like Purple Dome), now is the time to get them in the ground for the ultimate summer refresh. Here's how to do it right for beds and containers…

(Image credit: Peter Photos / 500px / Getty Images)Grab Your Asters

Late summer is when asters take center stage, and these fast-flowering options will guarantee you aren’t staring at gaps for long. From compact gems that fit effortlessly into patio pots to back-of-border color-blockers, there’s an aster for every space. This trio of dreamy pastels, neon bubblegums, and royal purple perennials will add statement color that lasts for months. They can all be planted in August for blooms to first frost.

Dazzling Summer Fillers

Container Friendly

Burpee New England Aster Purple Dome Aster Plant

The ultimate dwarf New England aster! This pretty clumper naturally grows into a neat 18-inch (45 cm) dome that quickly fills with purple semi-double flowers. Lovely at the front of the border, in small spaces, or in late-summer containers for maximum purple power without having to stake any tall stems.

Compact Showstopper

Plant Addicts Carmine Red Fall Aster Plant

Part of the modern Kickin Series, this aster has a bushy habit that doesn't become exposed at the bottom. It explodes with tight clusters of rich raspberry blooms on sturdy stems. Reaching 2-3 ft (60-90 cm), this zingy pink bloomer is best for mid-border sweeps, mass plantings, and plug-and-play August yard upgrades.

Fringe Benefits

Green Promise Farms Proven Winners Totally Stoked Riptide Stokes Aster

Stokes asters produce 3-inch (8 cm) fringed flowers a bit like cornflowers. Thriving in heat, the low rosette stays compact while sending up massive purple blooms. At 12-18 inches (30-45 cm), it’s perfect for sunny borders, cut flower beds, and low-maintenance pots to attract late-season pollinators.

Planting in Summer Beds and Borders

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Plugging asters into tired-looking August borders is simple, but positioning depends on the eventual height and shape of your variety. Taller New England aster classics like neon pink Alma Potschke are perfect for backs of borders. Meanwhile, mounding growers like bubblegum Kickin Carmine Red from Plant Addicts easily fill mid-border gaps without needing stakes. While asters are great gap fillers, just make sure they will have good air flow, which is key to keeping these plants happy and disease-free.

(Image credit: Albert Fertl / Getty Images)

Dig a wide hole and add a little phosphorus-rich feed like Down To Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s to kickstart root growth and flower production. Once your plant is in position, backfill the hole, firm the soil gently around the base, and water deeply to eliminate air pockets. Add a couple of inches (5 cm) of an organic mulch like leaf mold or some Back to the Roots Organic Premium Shredded Bark Mulch from Amazon. This keeps ground temperatures cool, locks in moisture, and prevents fungal spores from splashing onto lower leaves during heavy rain.

Asters prefer at least six hours of sun daily, though in scorching yards, a touch of dappled afternoon shade helps pastel petals retain their vibrancy for longer. As flowers begin to open, routine maintenance takes just minutes a week. Just deadhead faded flower heads above a fresh leaf joint or lateral bud. This will pretty much guarantee your asters keep the bloom frenzy going well into fall. Lucky you!

Planting in Containers

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By midsummer, patio pots may also be looking tired. Here, asters also make the ultimate late-summer container rescue plants. Compact cushion varieties like Wood’s Purple or Wood’s Pink are lovely in pots and bring rich, saturated color to doorsteps, balconies, and sun-drenched patios. Reaching just 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) tall, they quickly fill out in cheerful violet and bubblegum color without ever flopping or needing stakes. You can get Hirt’s Gardens’ Wood’s Pink Asters from Walmart as live plants for a little extra protection against mildew and extra rust resistance.

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Because container roots can dry out fast in afternoon heat, plant your asters into a moisture-retaining blend like Espoma Organic Potting Mix, available from The Home Depot. This is packed with beneficial mycorrhizae to help roots anchor fast. To power non-stop flower production deep into October, it’s also a good idea to sprinkle in a little of your bone meal. Water daily in extended heat to keep plants lush and active. However, make sure you are watering directly at the soil line to keep foliage clean.

Asters have a reputation for attracting powdery mildew, which could be more of an issue in containers. However, there are ways around this. Modern dwarf asters and disease-resistant types like the Wood’s series are bred to fight off powdery mildew. But if you’re worried about humidity or crowded containers, keep a bottle of Bonide Copper Fungicide Spray from Amazon on hand. This help protect against powdery mildew and leaf spot. Pair your potted asters with trailing golden foliage or dark coral bells, and your porch containers will be buzzing with late-season pollinators right through to pumpkin season.

Great Planting Partners

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Layering rich hues, tonal contrasts, and varied heights with the right plant partners will help you showcase your asters to full effect for the months ahead (and will also help keep pollinators happy for even longer). August is prime time for interplanting asters alongside hardy summer perennials that will stay vibrant right up to the first freeze. By choosing companions that share a fondness for full sun and well-drained soil, you ensure your midsummer refresh looks lush and established from day one.

Pair with indestructible rudbeckia or the dazzling spires of goldenrod (solidago) for savvy color contrasting. The rich gold and purple combination is one of nature’s favorite high-contrast color duos, practically vibrating with life in late-afternoon sunlight. Grow fellow native ‘Goldenrod’ by American Beauties from Plant Addicts. For textural variety, scatter frothy white yarrow (achillea) through the middle of the border, or a zingy color contrast with Yarrow Strawberry Seduction from Nature Hills. Yarrow's flat-bloom cluster clumps help give beneficial insects a sweet landing pad.

Fellow native purple coneflower (echinacea) introduces a strong silhouette. Even as their petals fade, their spiky seed cones provide texture and bronze tones for your starry aster clusters. Buy Clovers Garden Purple Coneflower Plants from Amazon. Nestle with some feathery ornamental grass like Purple Fountain Grass from Fast Growing Trees to offset brighter tones with graceful texture and movement. For patio displays and small-space vessels, add a splash of weeping golden creeping Jenny to cascade over container rims, and dwarf blue salvia for rich color spikes.

Shop Aster Essentials

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Asters are resilient once settled, but giving your starts a little extra TLC when planting in August makes all the difference. Late-summer planting generally means warm ground and high sun, so your main focus is accelerating root establishment, protecting against heat shock, and encouraging non-stop flower fabulousness through to fall frosts. Treating your new plants to high-quality organic amendments, bloom-boosting feeds, and protective mulches will keep those daisy-like stars exploding with color right up until the first winter freeze.

Bloom Care Trio

Root Booster

Rosy Soil Rosy Soil Biochar Booster Soil Amendment

This biochar and compost blend creates a bespoke permanent, porous environment that holds water and vital nutrients at the root level. Packed with beneficial mycorrhizal fungi and worm castings, it encourages rapid root growth in newly set August asters, ensuring your nursery starts skip the transplant shock and settle instantly into warm late-summer soil.

Bloom Builder

Down To Earth All Natural Fertilizers Down to Earth All Natural Fertilizers Fish Bone Meal

If you want a carpet of pink, purple, and magenta blossoms from September through to November, this marine-based fertilizer is a boon. Naturally rich in phosphorus and calcium, it slowly releases the nutrients asters crave to build sturdy, self-supporting stems and vivid, color-drenched blooms.

Heat Shield

GS Plant Foods GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp Extract

For plants enduring late-summer heatwaves, liquid seaweed is a wonderful pick-me-up. Soaking your newly planted asters with this kelp blend delivers vital trace minerals and enzymes directly to the roots. This helps with heat resilience, strengthening cell walls, and keeping foliage lush through dry August spells.

(Image credit: Pakin Songmor / Getty Images)

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Buying the best seasonal decor is getting to be like shopping for swimwear: wait till it’s time to actually use them, and all the nicest stuff has sold out. Which is why I’ve got all eyes on the new fall range from Hearth & Hand with Magnolia that dropped this week at Target. Meteorologists are predicting a false fall for 2026, with heat-stressed trees shedding leaves early and nuts and berries ripening faster than normal. So surely I need to get my fall decor started early, too?

There's plenty to please plant-lovers in the new range, with pretty pleated ceramic vases and framed floral wall art in sepia shades, the cutest mushroom bookends and a cheeky brass pheasant that would look so sweet peeking from behind the fronds of a houseplant. But what's really caught my attention is all the fabulous faux fall foliage.

From shapely gingko leaves to golden yellow aspen and the prettiest red Pacific dogwood, the sunset foliage shades are rich without being too brazen, and realistic enough to cut the mustard. I like to pair fresh flowers with a few artificial foliage stems as it makes for such a quick and easy arrangement, and the warm tones of these poly leaves would pair perfectly with late-summer coneflowers, sneezeweed and black-eyed Susan. Decisions, decisions!

Pretty Stems in Vases

Is there an easier way to turn up the style dial in your home than with a simple vase and a few stems of seasonal foliage? I don't think so. Whether you stand an arrangement on a hallway table to welcome visitors as they step through the front door, or pop one on a sill to bring the colors of the season in through the window, this is such an easy win.

Russet tones

16.5" Red Pacific Dogwood in Amber Glass Arrangement

Gorgeous Gingko

11" Mini Yellow Gingko in Ceramic Vase Arrangement

Simply stylish

14" Large Aspen Leaf in Ceramic Vase Arrangement

Versatile Wreaths and Garlands

Yes, a wreath is a lovely way to add some seasonality to your front door, but it's equally pretty hanging indoors. I'm a big fan of laying a wreath flat on a table or sideboard, then standing a simple jar of flowers in the centre. The same goes with a garland – by all means string it up, but it looks so stylish laid flat along a mantel, too.

On the cusp

Turning Leaf Wreath - Hearth & Hand™ With Magnolia

Abundant garland

72" Yellow Aspen Garland - Hearth & Hand™ With Magnolia

Circle of gold

Yellow Aspen Wreath - Hearth & Hand™ With Magnolia

Glorious Golden Stems

A few standalone stems are so useful to have when adding seasonal decor to your home. Tuck them into an informal bunch of fresh flowers in a ceramic jug to create a seasonal showstopper. Got family or friends coming over for a special fall mean? Lay a couple of sprays flat, stem-end to stem-end in the center of the table. You could snip individual twigs to twist into napkin rings, too.

Stately Aspen

40" Yellow Aspen XXL Branch

Pretty Gingko

25" Yellow Gingko Stem

Charming Cottonwood

36" Fall Cottonwood XL Stem

For plants, daylight is the signal, not the calendar hanging in the garage. Shorter days and cooler nights begin to tell an established shrub to quit growing and start packing reserves into the roots and stems, and that shift is usually well underway before anyone even notices it happening. Drop a scoop of plant food on it right then and the whole thing runs backward. Timing ends up mattering more than dosage.

The usual rules about fertilizer apply less in August than in almost any other month of the season. Soft new growth needs weeks to firm up before frost, and nitrogen delivered now produces exactly the tissue that will not make it through. Some plants take that hit harder than others.

Six Plants to Take Off the Feeding Schedule in August

None of these are off fertilizer permanently. They just need a few months without it, and in most regions August is where that pause starts.

1. Roses

(Image credit: Alex Manders/Getty Images)

Bright red new shoots on a rose bush in September look like a win, but they're not. Those canes are mostly water. They never firm up, and a hard freeze kills them outright, usually taking a few inches (5-8cm) of decent wood underneath along with them. There is a disease angle here too – extra foliage keeps humidity trapped around the bush, and black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) does its best work on tender tissue.

Six to eight weeks ahead of the average first frost is the usual cutoff, which puts most of the country somewhere in August. Deadheading can taper off around the same time, since letting a few hips form sends the shrub the signal it is hunting for. Potassium is the single exception here, though. A measured dose of sulfate of potash-magnesia from Amazon supports cell walls and cold tolerance without pushing any new shoots.

2. Tomatoes

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Nitrogen in August buys leaves, not fruit. A tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) carrying a full set of green fruit will happily route a late feed into fresh stems, and what is hanging on the vine colors up slower for it. Denser growth traps moisture in the canopy too, which suits septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) and late blight (Phytophthora infestans) far better than it suits the gardener. Whatever has set by now carries the sugars it needs to finish out. Steady water and a bit of thinning down low are the useful moves now, and then you let the plant finish what it started.

3. Bigleaf Hydrangeas

(Image credit: Svetlana Zhukova / Shutterstock)

Next spring's flowers are being decided right now. Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) sets buds on old wood through late summer and into fall, and a nitrogen push at that point puts out sappy shoots that carry those buds into winter unprepared. The shoots die back. Buds go with them, and the plant leafs out beautifully in spring with nothing on it. Nobody enjoys finding that out in May.

Panicle and smooth hydrangeas flower on new wood and shrug the whole thing off, which is why one gardener swears feeding is harmless while their neighbor blames it for a blank season.

4. Blueberries

(Image credit: Stock Photo 88 / Shutterstock)

Pine bark mulch from Home Depot is the better late-season investment for a blueberry patch. Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) runs a shallow, fine root system that keeps taking up nitrogen well past the stage where the bush should be shutting down, and that uptake can delay dormancy right as cold hardening ought to be underway.

Their feeding window closes early anyway – bud break through midsummer, under most guidance. Growth pushed this close to autumn rarely survives a hard freeze anyway. Mulch holds moisture and steadies soil temperature through the final hot stretch, and that is what those roots are after.

5. Japanese Maples

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Scorched leaf margins in midsummer send people hunting for a deficiency. Water or reflected heat is nearly always the real culprit, and Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) grows slowly by nature – the tree is not asking for more. Nitrogen this close to frost throws thin tips that will not lignify in time, plus muddier fall color, since the sugars behind red pigment develop best in a tree that is winding down.

A soil test kit from Amazon settles the question before anything gets applied. Plenty of established maples in decent ground go years without any feeding.

6. Peonies

(Image credit: Svetlana Repnitskaya / Getty Images)

Peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) finished their year in early summer. What the foliage does now is pack sugars into the crown for next spring, and a late feed will not speed that along – it leaves soft tissue and spare nitrogen sitting around a plant already prone to botrytis blight (Botrytis paeoniae).

Early spring and the weeks just after bloom are the windows that count. Leave the leaves standing until they yellow on their own, then cut them back. Skipping the August feed on all six of these is that rare piece of garden advice that costs nothing and pays out later, so do less now and let the plants handle the rest. Restraint is a harder habit than feeding, but it is the one that shows up in next year's growth. Give these six a quiet finish to the season and they will come back better for it.

I'm no stranger to heatwave anxiety. Every time the forecast starts creeping into the high 90s, I find myself wandering around the garden with a watering can, mentally apologizing to whichever plant I've inevitably forgotten. The tomatoes get extra attention, the containers become my full-time job, and I'm forever checking whether anything looks a bit droopy.

Wildlife has always been part of that equation, too. I keep bird feeders topped up, try to garden with pollinators in mind, and never need much encouragement to stop and admire a bumblebee going about its business. A recent CBS 8 San Diego report about birds and other wildlife struggling to find enough shade and fresh water during extreme heat, though, still stopped me in my tracks.

It wasn't that I hadn't realized heatwaves were hard on wildlife; of course I had. Seeing just how desperate the search for something as simple as a drink of water can become, though? Well, it broke my heart more than a little bit... and it made me look at my own garden differently, too.

5 Ways To Make Your Garden A Lifeline For Wildlife During A Heatwave

If you're just as concerned about local critters as I am (particularly your birth month animal), your garden could be the answer – especially if you want to offer them a little relief when temperatures become dangerous. And I have good news for you on that front, because helping doesn't have to be complicated.

These are the five simple things I'm doing to make my garden a little kinder to wildlife during a heatwave. Feel free to join me, so we can all make things a little easier on them...

1. I'm Keeping A Bird Bath Filled With Fresh Water

(Image credit: Tammi Mild / Getty Images)

One of the easiest things you can do to help wildlife during a heatwave, a bird bath gives birds somewhere to drink and cool off when natural water sources begin drying up. You can buy one or make your own DIY bird bath, it doesn't really matter; just make sure you pop it somewhere that's easy to spot but close enough to shrubs that birds have somewhere safe to retreat if they feel threatened.

I'm also making a point of refreshing the water every day during hot weather. Not only does clean water encourage more wildlife to visit, but changing it regularly also helps stop mosquitoes from breeding (something nobody wants; no offence to the skeeters, but they're the one critter I'm not actively seeking to help when things heat up).

Shop Bird Baths:

JIYANMEI Solar Powered Hanging Bird Bath Fountain

Is this not the fanciest bird bath around? I want a human-sized one for me!

Gtongoko Gtongoko Metal Bird Bath

Easy to clean, easy to stake, and easy on the eyes!

Bakayoyo Ceramic Bird Bath

How pretty is this simple and oh-so-classic bird bath?

2. I'm Making A Bee Watering Station

(Image credit: Schankz / Shutterstock)

Birds aren't the only thirsty visitors; bees and butterflies need water too! For these mini pollinators, deep bowls can quickly become dangerous, so I've filled a shallow saucer with fresh water and scattered a handful of pebbles across the bottom. The stones give insects somewhere safe to land while they drink, turning an ordinary dish into a tiny pollinator pit stop.

It's one of the easiest wildlife projects I've ever done, and it takes less than five minutes to put together. That being said, the Bee Cups on Amazon are an even easier option. Designed by an ecological artist, they are, quite honestly, the perfect vessel for attracting bees – not to mention a place for them to safely stop, drink the water they need, and rest without drowning. And they're incredibly beautiful, too, so they make perfect holiday gifts for wildlife lovers.

3. I'm Leaving More Shady Spots

(Image credit: Alamy)

For years, I thought a tidy garden was automatically a better garden. Now I'm learning that wildlife (especially wildlife during a heatwave) often disagrees.

Dense flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses, climbing plants and even the cool shade beneath larger perennials all create places where animals can escape the hottest part of the day. Living mulch plants, too, cut watering down dramatically. Rather than cutting everything back or clearing every corner, I'm leaving those cooler pockets exactly as they are so that nature can provide its own air conditioning.

Which is why, yes, my fence has all but disappeared behind a dense wall of climbing passionflower and hops (hey, the butterflies seem to be big fans! So sue me!).

4. I'm Letting Part Of My Garden Stay A Little Wild

(Image credit: Janet Horton / Alamy)

A gardener's first instinct, it feels, is always to tidy; deadhead the flowers, sweep up the leaves, trim the edges, mow the lawn... you get the picture. If you want to help wildlife during a heatwave, though, those slightly untidy corners become valuable shelter.

Yes, log piles, tree stumps, seed heads (I actually love the look of a dried allium seed head!), and dense planting all help create cooler and more humid microclimates where insects and other small creatures can ride out the hottest weather.

I've decided my garden can survive looking just a little less perfect for a few weeks. Which is why (horror of horrors!) I've got a pile of dead leaves and cuttings at the very back of the garden, which has become something of an insect equivalent to Disney World. It's hidden behind my magnolia tree, so I can't see it unless I go hunting, but it's there doing its bit for my birth month bug and his friends. Which means, in turn, it's doing a lot of good for hungry birds, too (including, ironically, my birth month bird. Favouritism, eh?).

5. I'm Planting To Support Pollinators

Yes, growing pretty flowers can be a godsend for bees, butterflies and other pollinators when they need it most. Try to stick to nectar-rich flowers that continue blooming through the hottest weeks of summer, especially native species where possible.

Coneflowers, asters, blazing star, bee balm and native sunflowers should do the trick nicely, while brightening your borders at the same time.

Shop Heat-Tolerant, Pollinator-Friendly Blooms:

Clovers Garden Purple Coneflower

Purple coneflowers are an obvious choice for hot weather planting, but they are a beautifully reliable (or a reliably beautiful) one, too!

Clovers Garden Black Eyed Susan

You can add an instant pop of color to any prairie planting scheme with a slew of Black-Eyed Susans.

Nature Hills Nursery Bumbleberry Salvia

This bold salvia promises season-long color and happy bees in their droves.

Look, I'm under no illusion that one bird bath or a few extra flowers will solve everything (there is a lot more that everyone needs to be doing to help wildlife during a heatwave). Still, if every gardener offered a drink of water, a patch of shade and a few safe places to rest, together we'd create thousands of small refuges woven through our neighborhoods.

To quote Michael Pollen, "The single greatest lesson the garden teaches is that our relationship to the planet need not be zero-sum and that as long as the sun still shines and people still can plan and plant, think and do, we can, if we bother to try, find ways to provide for ourselves without diminishing the world."

I love that. Let's all of us strive to garden with that in mind, then, shall we?

Is it any surprise I've been busy searching for a way to feed birds and banish slugs at the same time? Hardly; even though they're just trying to live their little slug lives, I have long been at war with this garden pest (my poor lupins appear to be their favorite restaurant).

I never learn my lesson; every year I lovingly grow plants, admire the first fresh leaves and wait for those beautiful flowers to arrive... only to find that the slugs have beaten me to it. However, I have always had a much softer spot for another garden visitor: birds – they can eat every single one of my strawberries and I will forgive them without question.

FORUP Forup Oriole Bird Feeder

The FORUP bird feeder brings beautiful birds up close, as it can be hung the feeder on the hook or tree. 

My obsession started when my granddad first taught me how to identify common songbirds by their calls. He'd point out a trill or a whistle before I had even spotted the bird itself, and ever since then I've been fascinated by the tiny flashes of color, movement and personality that appear in the garden – particularly when it comes to my birth month bird, obviously. And what the bird that visits my garden most says about me.

So when I discovered there might be a way to combine my two garden passions (aka encouraging more birds while dealing with slugs naturally), you'd best believe I was immediately interested.

How To Feed Birds And Banish Slugs At The Same Time

(Image credit: Wirestock / Getty Images)

it sounds too good to be true, right? And yet the idea is surprisingly simple: if you want to feed birds and banish slugs at the same time, al you have to do is take a leftover orange or grapefruit, cut it in half and place the empty halves around the garden.

That's it. Done. Finito! The fruit acts as a small feeding station for visiting birds like orioles , while the cool, damp space beneath the rind can provide a tempting hiding place for slugs.

According to Richard Green, a bird feeding specialist at Kennedy Wild Bird Food & Pet Supplies, the idea works because it brings two parts of the garden ecosystem together.

“Using citrus-fruit traps is a fantastic, natural alternative for pest control in the garden. Cutting an orange or grapefruit in half and placing the halves throughout your garden can serve a dual purpose. Birds are drawn to the fruit, and slugs are attracted to the leftover rinds," he says. "Once the slugs gather, the birds will return to eat them, creating an effective and eco-friendly way to manage pests.”

Shop Bird Feeding Essentials:

Birdfy Smart Hummingbird Feeder With Camera

The side-swivel ports of this smart feeder are designed for two hummingbirds to drink together comfortably (all while capturing them on camera for you).

Feeding in Style

Sweetfull Hanging Metal Bird Feeder

Combine function and visual elegance with this pretty 2-in-1 feeder and solar light. Perfect for cardinals, it has a classy vintage Mediterranean vibe, good drainage, and a lovely splashguard.

Pretty Drinking

Dreamysoul Bird Rain Chain

Something special for your birdies, this charming copper rain catcher has 8 large cups for collecting water for your feathered chums and it looks really pretty twinkling in the garden.

Now, I should say that I don't expect a grapefruit half to single-handedly solve every slug problem overnight, but I love the idea behind it. Rather than declaring war on every creature that wanders into my flower beds, this feels like a way to work with nature – giving birds another reason to visit while making my garden slightly less appealing to its tiniest (and hungriest) enemies.

All hail, then, the power of the citrus fruit! I shall be taking care to share my breakfast grapefruit with my feathered friends from now on...

Gardening when the summer sun is blazing down on you, and your sweat is mixing with the yucky taste of sunscreen dripping from your nose, is no joke. When the heat index is climbing, and the humidity kicks in, weeding your vegetable garden feels like an endurance event. So, what’s the fix?

A misting fan is one of the most effective ways to make gardening in the summer bearable; the combo of airflow and fine water spray can drop the temperature around you by up to 15 degrees. If you're already taking steps to protect your garden in the heat, a misting fan is a natural companion. Modern cordless misting fans have come a long way from the cheap squeeze-bottle versions of a decade ago.

Today's options range anywhere from high-capacity floor fans with multi-gallon tanks and 40-hour battery life, to compact individual units that you can clip to a golf cart or your folding table. Some can even be connected to a garden hose for continuous misting, and others have tanks that can run on their own without a water source. We've rounded up six of the best across a range of price points, sourced from Amazon, Home Depot, and Lowe's.

Shark FlexBreeze Pro Mist 2-in-1 Fan with Integrated Mist, in Charcoal

This was the highest-rated overall misting fan in independent testing for 2026, and it's easy to see why. It weighs less than 4 pounds and comes with a built-in handle and integrated water tank. You can easily move it from a patio table to a deck to an outdoor grill station, and its dry-touch evaporative mist keeps you cool without getting furniture or plants wet.

Five speed settings, including a BreezeBoost mode, a tilting face, and the ability to run corded or cordless, give it a versatility no other model can match. The battery lasts up to 29 hours on the lowest setting without mist. You can also connect it to a standard garden hose, and you can add ice to the tank for an even cooler output during a heatwave.

Ausic Outdoor Misting Fan for Patio, 30000mAh Rechargeable Oscillating Fan

This is currently a bestseller on Amazon in the misting fan category, and it’s seriously capable for your patio or garden. It has a built-in water pump that can draw directly from any container, and the dual spray nozzles put out an exceptionally fine mist.

Seven speed settings, 45/90 degree auto oscillation, and a remote control (with 5-meter range) make it easy to use from a chair if you’re feeling too lazy from the heat, while the brushless motor keeps the noise low so you can still enjoy some peace and quiet. The 30,000mAh battery runs continuously for 7–50 hours depending on what speed you set, and the fan head can be taken off and folded for storage.

Misting Fan Portable, 27600mAh Battery Powered Fan

This is a super compact but capable misting fan with a 2-litre tank; the tank is even clear so you can easily monitor the water level without stopping mid-weeding to check. The 27,600mAh battery powers four wind speeds and 120-degree auto-oscillation. It has a timer function and built-in RGB ambient lighting so you can use it for a serene evening on your patio.

This is a great middle-of-the-road option for people who want something more portable than a full pedestal fan but with more features and battery capacity than a basic handheld model. The nice thing is that it’s super light as well, so you can carry it around the garden, but it’s still sturdy enough to leave on while you work.

ONE+ 18V Cordless Hybrid WHISPER SERIES 12 in. Misting Air Cannon Fan

This is the RYOBI option for those who want more power and less noise (yes, these things exist). This 12-inch hybrid fan is part of RYOBI's WHISPER SERIES, and when “whisper” is in the name, you know it’s their quietest range. It still delivers up to 1,400 CFM and a 15-foot misting spray range when you connect it to a standard garden hose.

It has a pivoting head and HI/LO airflow switch that gives you great flexibility, and it functions as a regular fan when the misting feature isn't needed. Like all RYOBI ONE+ products, it's compatible with over 300 battery-powered tools in the ecosystem. If you use power tools regularly in the garden and already have ONE+ batteries, this is the most versatile in the range.

EGO 18-in High Velocity Indoor/Outdoor Misting Floor Fan, Battery Powered, in Gray

EGO claims this is the world’s most powerful cordless misting fan, and the specs actually back this up. Air speeds exceed 20mph with airflow from 1,500 to 5,000 CFM across five speed settings (that's double the output of a standard 20-inch box fan!) The hose can be dropped into any bucket or container for its misting source, and will cover up to 540 square feet of outdoor space (about the size of a large entertaining patio).

It runs on EGO's ARC Lithium battery system, with up to 60 hours of run time on speed 1 with a 5.0Ah battery (note: this is sold separately). The telescopic handle and super sturdy wheels make it easy to move around the yard. If you just want real cooling power, this is seriously the one to get.

SKIL 7-in Indoor/Outdoor Misting Personal Fan, Battery Powered, in Red

If you’re looking for something that has everything included in the one box, this is the one you want. The SKIL comes with the fan, a 12V 2.0Ah USB-C battery, a 20W charger, and a charging cable. This means you’re all ready to go right away without purchasing a separate battery.

The water tank is easy to fill and move without needing a separate bucket, and the removable nozzle can be taken apart for easy cleaning. Three fan speeds, two misting modes, and an adjustable kickstand so you can use it on uneven surfaces make it perfect for the garden. The USB-C battery even doubles as a power bank for charging your phone, which can be seriously useful when you’re working on the garden for a long period of time.

The runtime is up to 4 hours with mist on low; this is shorter than larger models, but it's a compact personal fan rather than a patio unit, so we’ll let it slide.

A Few Things to Know Before You Buy

Misting fans work best in lower humidity conditions. In dry heat, the perceived temperature drop can be quite dramatic, whereas in humid climates it’s less effective (though still noticeable!) If you're gardening in a hot, dry area, misting fans are one of the most effective tools available. If you’re in a more humid climate, look for a model that with a “dry fan only” only mode so you can switch off the moisture when you don’t need it.

Something also worth noting is that misting fans can also benefit your plants as much as you. If you have plants that love moisture, the fine water droplets are great to keep them from drying out on a hot afternoon, and the cooling effect can reduce stress on container plants in particular. Note: Avoid directing mist at plants that prefer dry conditions, such as lavender and rosemary.

For more on keeping your garden going through the hottest part of summer, our full guide to gardening in a heatwave is worth bookmarking before temperatures peak.

As soon as hummingbirds have done raising their brood, they start growing new feathers so they’re in tip-top shape for their fall migration. So right now, they’re in full plumage preparation, and there’s a simple way you can help hummingbirds get their feathers fully flight-ready, no matter how big or small your garden. You see, hummers need water to clean and preen their feathers, but they have super-short legs so don’t often land in bird baths. Instead, they seek out fountains and waterfalls where they can fly through airborne sprays of water – and that’s where you come in.

Adding a cheap floating solar-powered fountain to your bird bath – or, even better, fashioning a purpose-made hummer splashpark with a container and said garden gadget – will give hummingbirds the sprays of water they’re looking for at this time of year. Making a garden feature with a floating solar fountain is cheap, easy and sounds just as lovely as it looks. And boy, is it fun to watch those speedy hummers scooting though!

In the north, hummers begin their epic fall journey in August; in southern states, September to October is peak travel time – so now is the exact right moment to support hummingbirds in this simple way.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It’s estimated that 8-10% of adult hummingbirds die during the fall migration (the figure is devastatingly high among juveniles making their first journey, with a 60-70% mortality rate), and having plumage in prime shape makes a difference. Clean, preened feathers are essential for insulation and waterproofing as well as efficient flight – and you’ll understand why these are all such critical factors when you consider that many species must fly a non-stop marathon of 500 miles across the Gulf of Mexico as part of their migration.

Ready to help? Here’s everything you need to know to make a quick garden fountain this weekend, and help our feathered friends on their way.

How to Make a Fountain For Hummingbirds

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It’s quick and easy to make a fountain for hummingbirds, but there are a few critical factors to get right if you want lots of hummers to use their new garden spa facility.

1. Choose the Right Container

Many bird baths aren’t wide enough to house a floating solar-powered fountain – not because the fountain won’t physically fit in the basin, but because the spray falls outside the rim so water quickly empties. If your bird bath has a large diameter, great. If not, there are all sorts of ways to DIY a bird bath on a budget by using upcycled or reclaimed items or cheap vessels such as plant-pot saucers and animal stock feeders, and making your own means you can choose whatever diameter you fancy.

For water to be safe for hummingbirds to land in, it must be incredibly shallow: no more than a ½ inch deep. So, you may want to keep your existing bird bath as is for most of your feathered friends and make an additional hummingbird fountain. Because hummers are very unlikely to land – and if they do, they'll sit on the fountain itself – you can use a bigger, deeper container that holds a far greater volume of water so it won’t need topping up every day. A wider container also means you can use a more powerful floating solar fountain to create a higher, fuller spray of water for hummingbirds to enjoy.

You don’t need to buy an expensive water bowl, as you probably already own a perfectly suitable container. It’s a simple job to seal the drainage hole of an old planter or make a vintage vessel watertight with a marine silicone sealant like this from Amazon. Pots intended for succulents typically don’t have drainage holes, or have a hunt in your local hardware store for a budget utility tub.

Shop Big-Diameter Bowls

16" diameter

Gracie Oaks Myrtlewood Etched Plastic Pot Planter

20" diameter

Vivohome Polyresin Pedestal Bird bath

26" diameter

Tuff Stuff 15 Gallon Polyresin Stock Tank

If you are using a deeper container, do fashion a ramp from a piece of wood so any critters who fall into the water can climb out safely, or add a purpose-made wildlife ramp such as this from Amazon.

2. Match the Fountain Power to the Container Size

(Image credit: Getty Images)

So you don’t continually lose water over the sides of your bird bath or container, it’s important to match the power of the solar fountain to the size of the vessel it’ll sit in. The amount of energy the solar panels are capable of generating is measured in watts. For a bird bath fountain, a 1W or 1.5W product is plenty powerful enough. In a larger container, a fountain that’s at least 2.5W will power a higher spray and stronger flow of water. Don’t be tempted by a fountain that’s above 5W as these are designed for larger bodies of water.

Choose a product with stabilising arms as these will stop the fountain floating close to the container rim, minimizing water loss. A fountain that comes with plenty of nozzles will allow you to select a spray pattern that falls within the bowl, too. For longevity in a container, it’s also a smart move to look for a fountain with run-dry protection so it automatically shuts down when there’s insufficient water.

If you want to position your hummingbird fountain in partial shade, or want it to operate on cloudy days, you’ll need a product that has a battery. A fountain without a battery will only operate when sunlight is hitting its solar panels; a fountain with a battery will store energy to run in-between times. A battery size of 2000mAh or higher will typically run a fountain for 3-4 hours without sun on a full charge.

Shop Solar-Powered Fountains

Best for a bird bath

1.4W Floating Solar Fountain With 8 Nozzles For Bird Bath

Best for Most Containers

2.5W Fountain With 6 Nozzles & Run-Dry Protection

Best for a big container

3.5W Solar Fountain With 7 Nozzles & 2000mAh Battery

3. Find the Optimum Spot for Your Hummingbird Fountain

Considering the perfect position for your hummingbird fountain will make all the difference to how often it will be used, and how much it will benefit your feathered friends. Placing the fountain within 20 feet of an existing nectar feeder will ensure birds find it quickly. Airborne water naturally cools the air, so think where it might bring you or your plants some benefit, too.

While you need direct sunlight to power the fountain’s solar panels – and sparkling sunlit water droplets and reflections will also attract hummers – if you've chosen a fountain with a battery, then a little shade will lessen evaporation meaning you won’t need to top up as often. A spot that gets around 6 hours of sun a day is the ideal compromise. If it's sheltered, all the better, as wind will also accelerate water loss.

The airspace around the fountain must be fairly clear. While hummers will appreciate perches to preen within 6 feet of the fountain, it’s important it's sited well away from dense shrubs or other cover where cats and other predators could hide. Hanging up hummingbird swings such as these from Walmart is a great solution.

Once you’ve found the perfect spot, put your bird bath or container in place, fill with water, add the floating fountain and wait for the hummers to arrive.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Why a Garden Water Feature Helps Hummingbirds So Much

While hummingbirds get most of the fluid they need from supping nectar, water is vital to the feather-cleaning process. If they have easy access to a suitable water supply, it’s thought hummers bathe around four times a day. With any sticky residue from their diet of flower nectar and sugar water preventing feathers from performing properly, it's no wonder they’re such frequent bathers.

After dampening their feathers, hummingbirds will perch and preen, using their bills to spread natural oils and zip up the feather barbs, an especially important process during their annual molt. At this time of the year, hummingbirds have begun the gradual process of losing and replacing their feathers, and at the moment will be molting their body feathers (the molting process then halts during migration, and wing and tail feathers are replaced once birds have reached their wintering zone).

Landing in water is risky for hummingbirds as their legs typically measure less than half an inch, and completely saturating their feathers can leave them unable to fly and vulnerable to drowning as well as being snatched by predators. So hummers prefer to shower rather than bathe, darting repeatedly through sprays of water. Imagine if everyone with garden bird baths created the right conditions for hummers to clean their plumage: not only would feathers be fully migration-ready, but hummingbirds would save a heap of energy searching out suitable spots for a shower.

How to Make Your Fountain Into a Fab Garden Feature

Your new hummingbird fountain looks fabulous just how it is, right? Well, there are all sorts of easy ways you can upgrade it another notch to be a standout garden feature. Use a solar-powered floating fountain with LEDs to create a water feature to light up summer evenings in the garden. Or how about introducing a second, wider planter beneath to DIY a fountain planter for colorful flowers as well as cascades of water and flurries of feathers? Microponds using solar fountains are a huge trend this year, so you could add serious style to your backyard design while helping hummingbirds.

As quick and clever ideas for garden containers go, making a hummingbird fountain is a sure winner.

(Image credit: Future/Emma Kendell/AI)What Else to do to Support Hummingbirds Before the Great Migration

• Keep feeders clean and filled with sugar water prepared to the correct concentration. This will fuel not only your resident population of hummers but also birds passing through if you’re on a migratory route. Keep feeders filled for two weeks after you see the last hummingbird.
• Act now to fill your garden with fall nectar. Choose perennial plants that flower well into fall and, if you’re on a budget, there are lots of fast-growing annual plants you can still sow in midsummer that will speed from seed to bloom in as few as 45 days. Adding flowering groundcover to borders is another easy win for a long-lasting nectar buffet, or how about planting a hanging basket of nectarous blooms to feed hummingbirds?
• Use decals, such as these Suncatcher Stickers from Amazon, to prevent window strikes.

Late summer is a transition period in the garden. While many plants are still blooming and thriving, others are setting seed and preparing for the oncoming winter. Selective pruning now can help certain plants by managing unruly growth or even encouraging a second flush of flowers.

As a general rule, August is not the right time for heavy pruning on most plants. Focus on light maintenance cuts, deadheading, and strategic trimming to prepare these plants for winter.

Late Summer Pruning Tips

First, let’s revisit some pruning basics. Individual plants have their own needs, but these general rules will help you safely trim plants in late summer without encouraging too much tender new growth before colder weather arrives.

• Never prune with dull or dirty tools. Clean and sharpen your pruners or shears before you begin, as blunt blades can crush stems and leave ragged wounds, while contaminated tools may spread disease between plants. Bypass pruners are usually the best choice for making clean cuts through live stems. The Felco F6 Bypass Pruning Shears, available on Amazon, were rated the best pruners in our testing. To keep your blades performing well, use a Corona sharpener, also available from Amazon.
• Begin by removing the 3 Ds. That means removing dead, damaged, or diseased growth. These branches and stems can be taken out whenever you notice them, regardless of the season. Remove suckers and badly crossing or rubbing branches where appropriate, but avoid taking out large amounts of healthy growth at this time of year.
• Thinning or heading cuts? For most late-summer pruning, use thinning cuts rather than heavy heading cuts. Thinning involves removing a stem or branch at its point of origin to improve airflow and reduce congestion. Heading back shortens a stem to a bud or side branch, but it can stimulate fresh growth, so use it sparingly as fall approaches.
• Keep cuts light and purposeful. Focus on deadheading, tidying unruly growth, improving airflow, and maintaining the plant’s natural shape. Avoid hard renovation pruning unless the plant specifically benefits from it in late summer, and stop pruning early enough for any new growth to harden before the first frost.

Plants to Prune in August

August is not the time for widespread or heavy pruning, but a selective trim can benefit certain plants. These are some of the best candidates to prune now to control unruly growth, encourage fresh flowers, or prepare them for the season ahead.

1. Lavender

(Image credit: Almaje / Getty Images)

Lavender is a popular herb and small woody shrub prized for its delicate purple flowers, silvery foliage, and intoxicating aroma. It attracts pollinators and thrives in summer heat, tolerating drought conditions once established.

Lightly pruning lavender in August – after the final flush of flowers has faded – is a good way to maintain a tidy shape. In colder regions, do this early enough for any new growth to harden before your first frost date. If flowering continues late into the season, remove only the spent flower stems and wait until spring for shaping.

Otherwise, cut back the leafy green growth by no more than about one-third. Don’t cut into older, leafless woody growth, as it may not resprout.

2. Wisteria

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

Wisteria is a beautiful vine that blooms abundantly with hanging clusters of lilac-blue flowers. It’s great for covering arbors and pergolas and can also be trained into a small tree form. Due to being an extremely vigorous, fast-growing plant, wisteria requires twice-annual pruning to manage: once in late summer and again in winter.

To prune wisteria in summer, wait until the vine is finished blooming and then trim back the long, whippy shoots produced that year to about five or six leaves from the main branch. This controls its spread and encourages flower-bud formation. Leave selected shoots longer only where they are needed to extend the plant’s framework, and remove suckers at the base. In winter, shorten the same shoots again to two or three buds.

For tall wisteria, rather than balancing on a ladder, try a telescopic pole pruner, like Fiskars' 2-in-1 Extendable Tree Pruner and Pole Saw.

3. Rambling Rose

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Rambling roses are climbing shrubs rather than true vines. They produce long, flexible canes that can be trained to grow up and over arbors, fences, walls, and other structures. Most are single bloomers, producing a spectacular flush of abundant blooms in early summer.

Late summer, after flowering, is a good time for routine rambling rose pruning. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased growth first. Then, remove about one in three of the oldest stems at ground level. Trim back the newer green growth a little and tie these canes to the support structure to keep them safe and healthy for next year.

4. Tomatoes

(Image credit: VlarVix / Getty Images)

By August, all the hard work you have put into your tomato plants should finally be paying off with ripe fruits you can harvest until early fall. On the other hand, August is when indeterminate tomato plants can start to get a little unruly. Instead of just letting them go, a quick tidying prune now helps prevent disease and may lead to better fruit. Determinate varieties, however, generally should not be topped or heavily pruned because they produce a fixed crop.

To prune tomatoes, start by removing lower leaves that are touching the soil, along with yellow or diseased foliage. Thin dense upper foliage only where necessary to improve airflow, and remove suckers from indeterminate varieties. A thumb knife, like this one from Amazon, makes pruning tomato plants quick and easy.

About five weeks before your area’s expected first frost, remove new flowers, newly set fruit that will not have time to mature, and excessive new growth. Blooms opening later than this are unlikely to produce ripe tomatoes before frost, so removing them allows the plant to concentrate on fruit already developing.

5. Summer-Blooming Perennials

(Image credit: RobinOlimb / Getty Images)

Many summer-blooming perennials look ragged and tired by August. Some declining herbaceous perennials that have finished flowering can be cut back to near ground level, but this treatment is not suitable for every plant. Trim back dead, yellowing, or diseased stems on plants that are still flowering. You can leave some flowers in place to develop seed heads to feed wildlife. Coneflowers and black-eyed Susans are particularly useful for this purpose.

Some of your perennials may flower once more if you trim them back in August. Coreopsis and catmint are good examples. Cut coreopsis back after its first display and shear catmint by about one-third to one-half once it finishes flowering. Deadhead spent flower spikes on perennial salvia and delphinium for a chance of more late-season blooms. With garden phlox, deadheading is more likely to extend the display and prevent unwanted seedlings than to produce a distinct second flush.

6. Herbs

(Image credit: Piotr Zajda / Shutterstock)

Many leafy herbs benefit from regular harvesting in late summer, but avoid a hard cut on woody or perennial herbs as fall approaches. Oregano, mint, marjoram, and sage can be harvested or lightly trimmed, but remove no more than about one-third of a perennial herb’s growth at one time. This can encourage fresh leaves for a fall harvest without stimulating excessive tender growth before cold weather.

Many culinary herbs have their best flavor just before flowering, and leaf production often declines once they bloom. Deadheading spent flowers can encourage continued leaf production in many leafy herbs, although you may want to leave some flowers for pollinators or seed collection. In general, it’s a good idea to harvest your herbs throughout the growing season, both so you can use them and so that they continue putting out healthy growth.

Essential Pruning Tools

Our Top-Rated Pruners

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Pro gardeners can't get enough of Felco pruners – and these scored top in our testing.

Long Reach

Fiskars 2-In-1 Extendable Tree Pruner and Pole Saw

This telescopic tool is brilliant for trimming trees and tall climbers – no ladders required.

Handy Hedge Trimmer

Workpro Cordless Shrubbery Trimmer

This handheld powered hedge trimmer makes tidying up shrubs a breeze.

What Not to Prune in August

The above plants can benefit from a light to medium trim in August, but some plants should be left alone at this time of year. In particular, avoid pruning most spring-flowering shrubs in August. Many have already formed the buds that will produce next year’s flowers, and pruning now may remove them. Also avoid giving evergreens more than a light trim, as new growth stimulated late in the season may not harden sufficiently before winter.

For plants that benefit from an August trim, use a light hand, work with clean, sharp tools, and focus on shaping, deadheading, and removing damaged growth. Too much pruning can trigger tender new growth that may be damaged by cold weather.

Lovely summer weather is the perfect time for kids to enjoy the outdoors and let their imaginations run wild. I still look back fondly on the days I'd spend in my local park as a kid, making up pretend games with my brothers and seeing how high we could get from the ground on the swing set.

However, it would always be a shame when the play area was covered in bird poop. I used to bring kitchen towels along with me to put onto the seats of the swings to avoid sitting on it, or I'd just play somewhere else and accept defeat.

Attracting birds to your backyard is a worthy endeavor but sometimes they seem to poop in all the worst places! (If they have already done their business, check out our guide to cleaning bird poop). And if you're wondering why that seems to be, you've come to the right place. I talked to Bob Mulvihill from the National Aviary to learn why kids playsets are a magnet for bird poop as well as how it can be prevented. Here's what he had to share.

Why Do Birds Poop on Kids' Playsets?

(Image credit: suriya silsaksom)

If a bird needs to poop, they are going to poop anywhere, but there's a particular reason why the likes of kids' playsets end up pooped on more often than open spaces: they offer birds the perfect spot to perch.

As Bob explains: "Birds of all kinds naturally like to perch up off the ground to get a better view of their surroundings, and if there isn’t a rock, tree, bush, or fence post close by, but there is a swing set or scattered lawn toys, they will use those as perches instead."

Even if garden birds aren't perching there specifically to poop, after enjoying their time admiring the view from on top of your kids' playsets they might need to go before flying away.

There are a number of kid-friendly ways to make the likes of swing sets less appealing to perch on. However preventative measures such as bird spikes, which are commonly used in cities to stop pigeons from landing on buildings, are a rather dangerous option.

Child-Friendly Ways to Prevent Birds From Pooping on Playsets

(Image credit: JudiLen / Getty Images)

You can't entirely prevent birds from ever being able to poop on your kids' playsets unless you put them away or fully cover them up when they're not in use. However, there are many methods out there to make kids' playsets less appealing to land on, which will significantly decrease the chance of birds perching on them while they do their business.

Bob recommends using a mixture of "plastic owls, reflective strips and wind spinners" to deter birds from the area. Seeing objects that are shiny or moving, as well as birds of prey, will make feathery friends think twice about where they land. You can find mylar reflective ribbon on Amazon. Though Bob also noted it's important to switch up what you're using as over time the bird visiting your yard will get used to the deterrents and ignore them.

Two other options Bob recommended are using bird repellent sprays like the Nature Stop Bird Repellent Spray from Amazon as well as ultrasonic bird repellers like this Solar Ultrasonic Repellent Device from Amazon.

The sprays contain natural essential oils that are harmless to humans but irritating to birds. Meanwhile the ultrasonic repellers emit a frequency of noise that birds don't enjoy hearing that humans won't be able to notice.

How to Clean Bird Poop Off of Your Playsets

It's best to remove any bird poop from your playsets before applying repellents so they can best adhere to the surface.

If the bird poop is still wet you can simply wipe it off using a cloth and a mixture of warm water and soap. But if you're dealing with stubborn dried patches of bird poop, laying a damp cloth on top of it to soften it can be really helpful in making it easier to wipe away.

You can also add some white vinegar into your cleaning water to sterilize the surface too if you wish. Don't forget to give metal surfaces like swing poles a wipe down with a dry cloth after you're finished cleaning to help prevent the development of rust!

Shop Bird Deterrents

Sparkle and Startle

Offo Reflective Tape for Birds

Sunlight will reflect off of the surface of this tape, becoming dazzling to birds and encouraging them to keep their distance.

Faux Predator

Glintoper Plastic Fake Owl Wagging Head

This faux owl sits outside and has a moving head to startle birds away from the area.

No-Go Zone

Bird B Gone Transparent Bird Gel

This clear gel makes the surface of playsets such as the top of a swing where a bird may land slightly tacky. Birds won't like how it feels under their feet and would rather fly away than hang around! Lasts for 6 months.

Deep watering is often treated as the only correct method – and for established plants it usually is. But a handful of situations exist where shallow watering with a light, quick soak of the surface actually does the job better.

Water deeply and less often. Most gardeners learn that rule early. For the plants it was written for, the advice is good. Roots follow water downward where the soil holds its cool through a hot, dry spell. A tomato reaching 12 inches (30 cm) shrugs off the kind of week that flattens something else that's only rooted at 2 inches (5 cm). So the rule holds. But it doesn't hold everywhere all the time.

Learning how to water your garden is partly about knowing which plants can even respond to deep watering. Roots do the answering. One reaching 18 inches (45 cm) down has options a lettuce seedling simply does not, so identical treatment from the hose or watering can lands very differently on the two plants. Watering depth ought to follow the roots rather than a general rule. Here's when shallow watering may be best.

When to Use Shallow Watering

A seed has no roots at all. It has a coat that has to stay damp until it splits, which happens in the top half inch (1 cm) of soil. Not much else about a seedbed matters at this stage in the growth cycle.

Send water 10 inches (25 cm) down and it sails right past that vital seed sprouting zone. Then it sits where nothing can reach it as the surface dries and germination stalls. Light and frequent shallow watering isn't a compromise when it comes to watering seeds – it's the best method.

Shallow-rooted plants also do best with shallow watering. Certain vegetables, like lettuce and spinach, never out roots much below the top few inches (8 cm) of soil, so a deep soak mainly waters dirt they will never reach and wastes resources.

Newly-laid sod is another plant that does well with shallow watering. It sits in the same position until it knits into the existing soil. Transplants want the surface damp for a week or so while the root ball hooks into the ground around it.

(Image credit: Moha El Jaw / Shutterstock)How to Shallow Water the Right Way

Gentleness matters more than volume for plants that prefer shallow watering. A hard stream of water creates holes, buries seed, and knocks seedlings flat, so break up the water before it lands.

This watering can with a long neck and fine spray pattern from Amazon turns a stream of water into a gentler shower similar to rainfall. Or an Orbit 33-inch shower hose wand from Home Depot does the same across a garden bed without any kneeling. The target is the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of soil. Water shallowly until the soil is damp all the way across and no puddles are standing anywhere.

Morning is the best time to water plants, since the surface dries by afternoon so nothing will remain wet overnight. Expect to go out daily to water in warm weather, sometimes twice a day during a windy stretch because a shallow root zone dries faster in wind.

A thin layer of EZ-Straw seeding mulch from Walmart spread over a seedbed slows down dry-out considerably and takes the pressure off daily watering needs. Check soil moisture with a finger before reaching for the hose out of habit.

(Image credit: Olga Yastremska / Getty Images)Problems With Shallow Watering

There are a few drawbacks to shallow watering, so you should only do it in certain circumstances like I discussed above. One issue is that weed seeds sit right where shallow watering lands. They are the first thing a light daily watering feeds.

Damp foliage also suits fungal spores perfectly as well. In heavy soil, repeated surface-level shallow watering can turn heavy soil into a crust that seedlings then have to fight their way through. Salts build up on top of the soil as the water evaporates. This is a particularly bad problem when watering container plants.

But the biggest issue with shallow watering is the dependency it creates in your plants. Plants root where the water is, so a garden watered lightly forever grows a lightweight root system that can't take a missed day.

You can train plants to need less watering or more watering, though. Stretch out the watering interval once the seeds are up and growing as seedlings. Add volume slowly after that, so the roots go chasing moisture downward instead of waiting on it. Shallow watering is a phase, not a complete lifestyle. Unless they're very shallow-rooted, mature plants need more water than seeds.

(Image credit: Sundaemorning / Getty Images)When NOT to Shallow Water

Established trees and shrubs get nothing from a surface sprinkle, since their feeder roots are well out under the canopy and several inches down under the surface of the soil.

Fruiting vegetables have the same problem with worse consequences. A tomato or pepper carrying a crop needs steady moisture deep in the soil. The swing between a damp surface and dry root zone can cause blossom end rot by making it more difficult to take up calcium. Lawns past establishment want a deep soak as well.

Anything already stressed by drought needs a real drink rather than a dribble. A light sprinkle in that situation encourages roots to come up looking for water that won't be there tomorrow. Skip shallow watering during hot, windy afternoons when much of what leaves the hose never reaches the soil.

Containers are another exception. They want water until it runs out the drainage holes every time, no matter how shallow-rooted the plant in them happens to be.

I have reached that point in summer where I look around my house and feel like I owe several apologies to my houseplants. The heatwaves have been relentless, the air feels so dry my own thirst levels are at forever at maximum, and somehow the plants I thought I understood have decided this is the year they test my patience.

Yes, every single one of my houseplants is wilting and drooping like made – and even my beloved mold-solving ivy has betrayed me. I know, I know; I never thought I'd say that either. Ivy has always been the plant I could rely on, but lately it has been looking deeply unimpressed with the whole situation, dropping leaves, turning a les-than-fetching brown color, and generally acting as though it would like to speak to my manager.

Thankfully, though, there is one houseplant that well and truly has my corner: my snake plant is standing there looking almost offensively healthy. Quite honestly, it's standing straighter than I am in this horribly hot weather.

All Of My Houseplants Are Dying In The Heat... Except For This One

Yes, you guessed it; my snake plants have become the smug survivors of my indoor garden (just call them the sexy cockroaches of the houseplant world). They don't care that the temperature has climbed or if I succumb to my overheated state and forget about them for a while. And they certainly don't need the constant attention that some of my more dramatic houseplants seem to demand in a heatwave.

Snake plants, also known as Sansevieria or Dracaena trifasciata, have earned their reputation as one of the easiest houseplants around (some even call them unkillable houseplants) for good reason. Primarily because their thick leaves store water and help them cope with dry conditions.

This means that, unlike many tropical houseplants that wilt dramatically when they miss a watering, snake plants are designed to handle periods of neglect. In fact, the biggest mistake many people make with them is being too kind.

(Image credit: Adam Yee / Shutterstock)

Basically, snake plants are some of the best houseplants to tend to during a heatwave because they don't want constant watering or soggy soil. Their roots prefer to dry out between drinks, which makes them ideal for anyone who loves plants but occasionally forgets they exist.

They also tolerate a surprisingly wide range of indoor conditions, from bright indirect light to lower-light corners where many other houseplants struggle. No wonder that, despite long being associated with offices and waiting rooms, they've become one of the trendiest houseplants going.

And you don't just have to stick to the classic yellow-edged 'Laurentii' (even if it's still a favorite), as there are so many more interesting options now. 'Moonshine' has silvery-green leaves that almost look painted; 'Black Coral' has deep green foliage with striking dark tones; 'Bantel's Sensation' has elegant narrow leaves with creamy vertical stripes; and the dramatic Whale Fin snake plant has a single enormous paddle-shaped leaf that looks like something from a designer plant showroom.

Shop the Best Snake Plants:

Snake Plant 'Laurentii'

Altman Plants Snake Plant 'Laurentii'

The classic for a reason, with bold yellow-edged leaves that suit almost any room.

Snake Plant 'Moonshine'

Generic Snake Plant 'Moonshine'

A softer, silvery variety of snake plant that feels incredibly modern.

Whale Fin Snake Plant

Thorsen's Greenhouse Whale Fin Snake Plant

A statement snake plant with huge architectural leaves.

The best part about investing in a pretty new snake plant of your very own? These are exactly the kind of plants that reward you for doing less. After years of trying to keep fussier houseplants from dying in the heat (or throwing a dramatic flop over some other perceived slight), there's something wonderfully satisfying about having a plant that simply gets on with life.

Honestly, while my ivy is currently staging a dramatic protest and several other houseplants are wilting more than I am, my snake plants remain completely unbothered. We could all learn something from them.

When you think of succulents, you might assume they need endless hours of sunshine and warm temperatures all year long to survive. While that is certainly true of some species, there are many that are far tougher than most people realise. In fact, several hardy succulents that love summer heat are equally capable of surviving freezing winters in the backyard.

Take Sempervivum, or houseleeks. They come in countless shapes, colours and forms. They are striking, yes – succulent and a little strange – but they are also remarkably hardy, tolerating winters down to USDA zone 3. So, if you have a gravel garden, rockery or sunny border that needs evergreen interest throughout the year, this resilient plant is one to consider. For a plant with a more dramatic character, look to the prickly pear. Native to much of North America, it has adapted to cope with blistering summer temperatures as well as surprisingly cold, frosty winters down to zone 5, making it one of the toughest succulents for outdoor growing.

If you want colourful, low-maintenance plants that shrug off scorching summers and freezing winters alike, here are six fabulous succulents to try in your yard this year.

1. Lewisia

(Image credit: Olena Lialina/Getty Images)

Lewisia may be small but, when plants burst into flower in spring, it's unforgettable. Masses of jewel-like blooms in shades of pink, peach, orange, yellow and white are produced above neat evergreen succulent rosettes and, while the plant itself only grows to around 1-3 inches tall, each flower can be 3 inches across.

Native to the rocky hillsides and mountains of western North America, Lewisia rediviva has evolved to thrive in places where many other plants would simply give up. Hardy in zones 3 to 8, lewisia is ideal for alpine beds, rockeries, gravel gardens or tucked into the cracks and crevices in the yard. It's a heat-tolerant plant, although gardeners in the hottest southern states may find it benefits from a little afternoon shade. Lewisia 'Rainbow Mix' hardy succulent plants are available from Walmart.

2. Houseleeks

(Image credit: VladanaS / Shutterstock)

Hardy to around zone 4, houseleeks are native to rocky mountain regions across Europe, where they have adapted to survive blazing sunshine, poor soils and freezing winters. Their botanical name, Sempervivum, literally means 'always alive' in Latin, which tells you much about their resilience. Their common name, hen and chicks, refers to how it spreads, with one central plant (the hen) producing a crowd of offshoots (the chicks).

There are all sorts to choose from: take a look at the wide selection of houseleeks stocked by Plant Addicts for an idea of the vibrant range of colors available. A particular favorite is Chick Charms Gold Crown, available from Plant Addicts and hardy down to zone 3, with striking red leaves tipped in golden yellow.

Whatever variety of these drought-tolerant plants you opt for, be sure to give them a sunny position in gravel gardens, terracotta pots or simply directly into your borders. Sempervivum need free-draining, gritty soil so if needed, add horticultural perlite such as this from Amazon to soil to help prevent waterlogging.

3. Hardy Aloe

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Most aloes are remarkably tender and need frost-free conditions to survive. There is, however, one notable exception. Hardy aloe, or Aloiampelos striatula, can cope with temperatures down to around zone 8, making it a realistic option for gardeners across parts of North and South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Missouri and Arkansas.

Native to the mountains of South Africa, where hot, dry summers are followed by mighty cold winters, this is a succulent that can tolerate extremes. It has attractive striped green stems and, in summer, produces tall spikes of orange-yellow flowers that are a little like those of red hot pokers (Kniphofia).

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Hardy aloe plants are available from Heron's Head Nursery. Position in full sun and free-draining soil, and – depending on conditions – it can grow to a height of 6 feet. In particularly cold winters, the foliage may look a little worse for wear, but don't panic – it should produce fresh growth in spring.

4. Yucca

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Some of the easiest succulents to grow outdoors are yucca, and they're a popular choice not just because they're so drought tolerant, but on account of their architectural form. Silver-leaved plants are attracting plenty of attention of late: not only do their cool blue-grey tones create calm, contemporary planting schemes, but they are often some of the toughest plants for climate-proofing a yard. Yucca rostrata is hardy down to zone 5 with an architectural crown of spiked silver foliage. Yucca rostrata plants are available from Exotic Cactus Collection via Amazon and, while it's capable of eventually growing to 13 feet, this is an incredibly slow grower.

A better choice for a smaller garden is Yucca filamentosa 'Color Guard' which boasts golden-yellow variegated foliage and is evergreen down to zone 4. Only reaching 3 feet high with an upright, compact habit, Yucca Color Guard plants are available from Nature Hills.

5. Ice Plant

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Ice plants are some of the hardest-working groundcover plants for hot, dry gardens, carpeting the soil with masses of daisy-like flowers for months from early summer through to fall. The fleshy evergreen foliage is almost hidden beneath masses of bright blooms, creating a rather pretty display that bees and butterflies cannot resist. Low growing, this succulent is ideal for edging paths or lining the front of borders.

For maximum flower power, look to more modern ice plant series, bred to bloom particularly abundantly, and Plant Addicts stocks a great selection. Kaleidoscope by Proven Winners is hardy down to zone 5 in vibrant tones from dramatic Pink Radiance to crimson Dancing Embers. Ocean Sunset by Proven Selections is a little less hardy, suitable to zone 6, and has particularly intense colors, especially the Violet variety.

Add hardy ice plants to your borders and they will thrive in full sun and poor, sandy or gravelly soils where many other flowering perennials would struggle. Once established, no supplemental watering is needed.

6. Prickly Pear

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Prickly pear, or Opuntia, proves that tough plants can be beautiful too. Hardy down to zone 5, this native cactus naturally grows across the deserts and grasslands of the United States and Mexico, where scorching summer days are often followed by surprisingly cold nights. That ability to cope with extremes makes this one of the best succulents for year-round growing outdoors.

With paddle-shaped evergreen stems, vibrant yellow, orange or pink flowers and colourful fruits, prickly pears bring plenty of architectural interest to sunny borders. It thrives in full sun and poor, sandy soil, needing very little water. Sizes range from 6 inches to 15 feet high and wide, depending on the species, so there's sure to be one that fits your garden perfectly. These purple prickly pear plants from Walmart reach a manageable 1-2 feet at maturity.

One word of warning: the spines and tiny hair-like glochids come with a warning. Position these plants towards the back of a border in large yards rather than beside paths or seating areas, particularly if children or curious pets regularly use the space.

The Secret to Overwintering Succulents

Whichever of these succulents you choose, success is determined by how free-draining the soil is. Succulents dislike sitting in rich, moisture-retentive soil, and excess moisture is a bigger killer than cold. Give your succulent the free-draining conditions it needs and it will cope with far lower temperatures than if planted in a wetter environment.

Mix sand, gravel or coarse grit into the soil and, if your ground is on the soggy side, grow your succulents in containers, raising the pots on risers such as these pot lifters from Amazon. Resist the urge to over water, too: succulents would much rather be too dry than too wet, whether grown in borders, gravel gardens or patio pots.

More Striking Hardy Succulents to Try

Zones 3-9

Sedum Succulent Mat

Zones 3-9

Autumn Joy Sedum

Zones 5-10

Red Yucca

To find out more about inspirational gardens and gardening, read The Garden Through Time by Thomas Rutter, available from Amazon. From Persian paradises to New York’s High Line, this volume offers practical ideas and plant selections to help you design a gorgeous, low-maintenance garden.

My worst nightmare is strolling through a field on a hot summer day with no trees in sight. That’s one of the reasons I planted over 200 trees on my property in France. I have sheltered under a tree to block the Basque Country’s famous south wind, to escape the worst of the rain, and to shelter from the blazing summer sun. Shade trees offer real protection from the elements Sited appropriately, they can even help to keep your home cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, cutting utility bills.

Beyond energy savings, a shade tree’s cooling canopy can completely alter your backyard's microclimate. Ambient air temperatures beneath a mature shade tree can be 10°F cooler than surrounding sun-baked asphalt or bare turf, creating a far more comfortable, refreshing outdoor space in summer heatwaves. When you plant trees for shade, you get other benefits, too. They filter dust and reduce storm water runoff. They provide color and movement, often with dazzling displays as the seasons shift. They also provide year-round sanctuary for local songbirds and pollinators.

And the best part? You don't have to wait decades to reap these rewards, if you choose rapid-growing, adaptable species. Planting these shade trees will transform your sun-scorched backyard into a cool retreat that offers months of interest and years of protection. Whether it’s lush movement, fiery fall colors, winter bark texture, or sweeping umbrella branches you’re after, these fast-growing shade tree varieties are easy to maintain and even easier to love.

Plant Fast Growing Shade Trees

When planning to buy and plant live trees in summer, go for potted specimens over bare-root stock. Potted trees arrive with root systems encased in moist soil, giving them a great head start. August planting can work well (especially in USDA hardiness zones 5-8), as long as you have checked in with your soil levels and water sensibly. Check moisture levels in the ground before planting. Use a dedicated tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon to determine soil moisture at the root level. This will help you give your sapling the best hydration.

Soil meters can also help you with other useful checks, such as light, pH and nutrient levels, to form a picture of overall health. You can then make any adjustments needed before your tree goes in the ground (which is the best time). Where soil is compacted, add a little coarse sand or perlite, and a pinch of biochar. This helps with drainage and can encourage healthy root development as the seasons shift into fall and winter.

(Image credit: FarmerJ3 / Shutterstock)

In August heat, leaves can lose moisture faster than the young tree roots can pull it from dry ground. So make sure you deep-water your new tree. Make a bit of time for a slow soaking 2-3 times a week, in the first few weeks after planting. Additionally, apply a 2-3-inch (5-8 cm) layer of mulch around the base to help with moisture retention. Choose an organic option like Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch on Amazon around the base, keeping it a couple of inches away from the trunk.

Finally, when choosing one of these shade trees, it helps to manage your expectations about growth rates. A fast-growing shade tree generally gains 2-4 feet (60 cm-1.2m) in height per year once fully established, compared to the 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) of slower growers. However, when planting during late summer, consider the tree's immediate priorities. It will not immediately surge up. Instead, it directs its energy into root establishment before winter dormancy, setting the stage for expansive top growth in spring that will keep you cool for many summers to come.

1. Autumn Blaze Maple

(Image credit: Kayco / Getty Images)

This maple is a fast-growing favorite that reaches 40-50 feet (12-15 m). It’s known for its dazzling fall color and a naturally sturdy branch structure that requires little pruning. Autumn Blaze (Acer x freemanii) also has excellent tolerance to drought pollution. Known as one of the fastest-growing shade maples, it adds 3-5 feet (90 cm-1.5 m) per year, forms a dense canopy, and grows up to 4 times faster than a typical red maple. You can buy Autumn Blaze from Fast Growing Trees, and smaller Autumn Blaze Maples from Amazon for a more budget-friendly alternative.

Also known as a Freeman maple, this hybrid combines the intense color of the red maple with the rapid growth and soil adaptability of the silver maple. Plant in well-drained soil and full sun to part shade in zones 3-8. While tolerant of heavy clay, it prefers slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6-7). To nourish young root systems through their first winter, use a little TPS Nutrients Maple Tree Fertilizer from Amazon to nurture root resilience, and water frequently until established.

2. Heritage River Birch

(Image credit: Biosphoto / Alamy)

If you love the dramatic look of birch, but your area is prone to hot summers, this birch variety (Betula nigra 'Heritage') is a gorgeous 4-season specimen. Reaching 40-50 feet (12-15 m) with a 30-40-foot (9-12 m) spread, this multi-stemmed beauty grows rapidly at 2-3 feet per year. It provides a dappled canopy for shade-loving perennials to thrive beneath, and flourishes in zones 4-9 in full sun to partial shade. As well as being fast growing, the Heritage River Birch, available from Fast Growing Trees, is also resistant to diseases like the bronze birch borer.

This shade tree’s defining feature has to be its bark, which peels back in layers of cream, salmon and cinnamon to provide striking winter interest. River birches thrive in moist, acidic soils (pH 6.5 or lower), but they struggle in highly alkaline conditions. For summer planting, keep the soil moist, as drought can cause premature leaf drop. To protect foliage from fungal spots and powdery mildew in humid weather, treat leaves with a little Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate, available from Lowe’s.

3. Northern Red Oak

(Image credit: Eve Livesey / Getty Images)

This fast-growing shade tree is a native, and considered a national treasure. It’s also one of the easiest to grow in zones 3-8. While oaks are considered slow growers, the northern red breaks the mold, gaining 2 feet (60 cm) a year. In the right spot, this red oak reaches a massive 60-75 feet (18-23 m) tall, with equally impressive spread. The northern red oak (Quercus rubra) is known for its green lobed leaves, the acorns it produces, and its phenomenal fall foliage. Buy Northern Red Oaks from Fast Growing Trees for year-round character.

Red oaks prefer full sun and acidic, well-drained soil (pH 5–6.5). Avoid planting in chalky or high-pH soils, which stunt development. You should also never prune between April and October. To ensure steady nutrient delivery, add some Jobes Slow Release Slow Release Fertilizer Spikes from Amazon. As well as affording us shade in summer, this tree’s dense canopy provides food and shelter for birds and native wildlife. It’s long living, famously low maintenance, and a stellar choice.

4. Red Sunset Maple

(Image credit: Tracy Immordino / Alamy)

This fabulous red maple cultivar (Acer rubrum 'Franksred') has a great branching structure and really delivers on color. If you’re after a fast-growing shade option that can bring on the dynamics, this deciduous tree is known for its winter buds, leaf stems and summer fruits, as well as its vibrant fall color. It grows quickly to 50 feet tall (16m) and 40 feet (12 m) wide. While Autumn Blaze is celebrated for raw speed, Red Sunset also brings awesome structural strength. You can buy Red Sunset Maples from Fast Growing Trees for dazzling early fall color and resilience.

Red Sunset thrives in zones 4-8, and grows best in a spot with full sun and moist, acidic, well-drained soil, although it won’t object to wet soil, so it’s a good choice for yards with poor drainage. If planting in August, give this tree deep, regular soakings. To keep the soil acidic and nutrient-rich around the root system, dress the base with Espoma Organic Holly-Tone Fertilizer from Walmart to enhance fall pigmentation.

5. Weeping Willow

(Image credit: Robert K Chin / Alamy)

I don’t have a weeping willow (Salix babylonica) on my property in France, and my backyard’s just not big enough in San Francisco. But a neighbor in France has a magical specimen, with space beneath its cascading branches for a small table and chairs: what a place to pass a hot afternoon! All willows seem to grow at lightning speed, and this one shoots up by 4-8 feet (1.2-2.4 m) a year. It reaches 40-50 feet (12-15 m) and its sweeping canopy provides exceptional shade in zones 4-9, and dazzling foliage in fall. Buy Weeping Willow Trees by Brighter Blooms from Amazon.

Weeping willows love a site with full sun and moist soil. However, bear in mind that its thirsty root system can spread 3 times wider than the canopy. So don’t plant within 50 feet (15 m) of house foundations, water mains, septic tanks, or paved driveways. Also, because it grows rapidly, its wood is soft and prone to shedding in storms. For summer planting, water daily for the first month and add Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Miracid Plant Food from Amazon to encourage swift root growth.

6. Dawn Redwood

(Image credit: Aleksandra Tokarz / Alamy)

If you’re seeking a unique ornamental tree that combines rapid growth with architectural beauty, the dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides) is compelling. Once thought to be extinct, this living fossil grows at 3+ feet (90 cm) per year, and can reach 70-100 feet (21-30 m) tall with a 25-foot (7.6 m) spread. It has sweeping, needle-like foliage that provides a lush, cool canopy in summer heat. Majestic Dawn Redwoods are available from Fast Growing Trees and offer staggering tonal variety and charming feathery shaping in zones 5-9.

Despite looking like an evergreen conifer, the dawn redwood is deciduous, and in the fall, its feathery needles shift to russet orange and bronze. It is exceptionally hardy, disease-resistant, and tolerant of wet soils and heavy clay. Just avoid planting this feathered giant in exposed hilltop sites or light, sandy soils. For summer planting, add a little GS Plant Foods Liquid Kelp Extract from Walmart to help this tree build heat tolerance. Grow your dawn redwood in full sun to appreciate it as its best.

Shop Shade Tree Care

Once established, these low-maintenance shade trees are easy to sustain and care for, but a little attention in the first few months after planting will keep your tree growing strong for decades. This initial establishment phase is what it’s all about, so treat yourself (and your tree) to some high-quality soil amendments and organic treatments. This handy action pack will help to supercharge growth and give your young saplings the best start. Here’s how to nurture your trees so they develop strong roots, heat resilience, and dramatic canopy growth year after year.

Smart Shade Tree Trio

Root Booster

Rosy Soil Rosy Soil Biochar Booster Soil Amendment

This biochar and compost blend creates a bespoke porous environment that holds water and vital nutrients at the root level. Containing mycorrhizal fungi and nourishing worm castings, it stimulates rapid root branching in newly planted saplings, ensuring high survival rates.

Slow-Release Nitrogen

Espoma Espoma Organic Chicken Manure

For a slow-release treat, this organic granular feed provides a steady, non-burning supply of nitrogen. Spread a few handfuls around the drip line of young maples, oaks, and birches in early spring to fuel vigorous stems and masses of lush summer leaf production.

Moisture Shield

Back to the Roots Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch

Our team loves this high-grade organic bark mulch, and it’s a lovely way to insulate young root zones in summer. That lush shredded bark locks in moisture, suppresses competing weeds, and breaks down to keep sustaining your fast-growing shade tree for the long haul.

(Image credit: Sergio Amiti / Getty Images)

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Hydrangeas are some of the most popular flowering shrubs to grow. Just drive down any street in summer and their abundant, long-lasting clusters of flowers shout out from the landscape borders.

By August, the summer-flowering hydrangeas are well into their bloom cycle. But to keep those magnificent shrubs looking their best through the grueling August heat, you need to take some steps to ensure they look as good in late summer as they did earlier in the season. Proper late summer hydrangea care rewards you with huge, colorful blooms that fade gracefully into fall and winter.

Maintaining those colorful, round-to-conical-shaped hydrangea blooms and green leaves in August is worth the effort. Performing the proper tasks during high heat periods can help to extend flowering as much as possible and prevent scorching of petals and leaves. Tackle these chores now to beat the August heat.

1. Water Regularly

(Image credit: Liudmila Chernetska / Getty Images)

Hydrangeas are moisture-loving plants and most varieties need 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water a week by rainfall or supplemental watering to keep them happy. During extreme heat or in hot drying winds, they may dry out faster and need more.

You know it is time to water hydrangeas when the soil 1 inch (2.5 cm) below ground is dry. You can measure with a finger, screwdriver, or moisture meter. This moisture meter from Amazon tells you soil pH, too, which is important to know if you want to change your hydrangea bloom color.

Water slowly and deeply with a soaker hose or drip irrigation. Watering by hand may only dampen the surface. You can leave the garden hose running under your plants until the soil is saturated, but it is easy to forget and overwater, which can lead to root rot. Well-draining soil is essential for hydrangeas. Adding compost to the soil aids in moisture retention, fertility, and drainage.

Providing regular moisture can help prevent hydrangeas turning brown and crispy leaf edges from leaf scorch, a disorder caused by water evaporating from leaves faster than it can be supplied from the roots.

2. Apply Mulch

(Image credit: New Africa / Shutterstock)

Mulching with 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) of shredded bark, pine straw, or compost benefits hydrangeas, as well as most plants. It retains moisture, prevents weeds, and regulates soil temperature. Apply mulch about 6 to 8 inches (15.2-20.3 cm) away from the stem to avoid stem rot.

Do not use rock mulches, plastic mulches, or volcano rock as they will heat up the area too much and further add to heat stress. Instead use an organic mulch, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

3. Provide Shade

(Image credit: mladris01 / Getty Images)

Most hydrangea species do best with morning sun and afternoon shade. Some types of hydrangeas tolerate more sun, such as panicle hydrangeas, and some take less, such as oakleaf hydrangeas. So read and follow the planting instructions on the plant tag that accompanies the shrubs you buy.

Bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) are the most sensitive to sun, but thrive in dappled shade or morning sun. If your hydrangeas are getting too much direct sun, you can provide shade for them.

Shade cloths, like this one from Amazon, sheets, or blankets offer cooling shade when draped over supports such as trellises, PVC hoops, metal T-posts, or bamboo stakes. In the fall, consider transplanting your hydrangea bush to a shadier area if it struggles during the heat of summer.

4. Control Pests & Diseases

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Monitor weekly for common hydrangea diseases and pests to keep a step ahead of problems. Pests, such as spider mites, like the hot, dry conditions of late summer and can quickly multiply. If you see yellowing leaves, stippling, and fine webbing between stems, take action to stop them.

A strong blast of water should knock them off. If they persist, apply neem oil in the evening to control them. Pick up a bottle of neem oil spray on Amazon or at your local garden center.

Cercospora leaf spot is a common fungal disease that favors hydrangea leaves during wet, humid, and warm conditions. Spots are typically tan with reddish-brown halos. Pick off the affected leaves and discard if it is not widespread.

A fungicide, like this one from Bonide, may stop the disease from spreading, but it can’t cure the disease. If leaf spot is a yearly problem, you can start a fungicide-spraying regimen early to prevent the fungal leaf spots. Watering from below rather than overhead, picking up and discarding leaves in the fall, and improving air circulation also help to avoid the disease.

If you have major problems and your shrubs succumb, consider replanting disease and pest-resistant types of hydrangeas instead.

5. Stop Fertilizing

(Image credit: VH Studio / Shutterstock)

Fertilizing hydrangeas when temperatures exceed 90°F can burn the roots. Also, fertilizer will push out new growth that may not have time to harden off before winter arrives. Lush new growth also can attract pests.

Hydrangeas do not need a lot of fertilizer, if any, especially if the soil is organically rich. If indicated by a soil test, they can be fertilized with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 in spring or sidedressed with compost.

6. Avoid Pruning & Deadheading

(Image credit: Galina Zhigalova / Getty Images)

If your hydrangeas bloom on old wood (the prior year’s growth) such as mophead hydrangeas or oakleaf hydrangeas, do not prune them now. Next year’s flower buds develop in late summer or fall. You can see the buds if you examine the tips of the stems. Pruning hydrangeas now will cut off next year’s blooms. Always prune those two types immediately after flowering, if needed.

Also, pruning in late summer may encourage new growth that will be susceptible to damage in further heat waves or may not be hardened off before winter. An exception to pruning now is damaged or dead wood. Remove those stems at the base of the plant any time you see them.

If you are deadheading hydrangea blooms during the summer, now is a good time to stop so the remaining blooms provide winter interest. The tan or brown dried blooms stay erect during winter and add architectural form to the landscape.

It doesn’t hurt to lightly tidy up the plant, but leave some of the dried flower heads for winter. For a fun Christmas project, you can spray paint the dried blooms in gold or silver.

7. Choose Heat-Tolerant Hydrangeas

(Image credit: Catherine McQueen / Getty Images)

If your area experiences high heat for extended periods, choose native hydrangea varieties and cultivars from the U.S. rather than Asia. The oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) and the smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens) are native to the Southeastern US, and are more tolerant of higher temperatures than the mophead (H. macropylla) or mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata).

Most types of hydrangeas do well in part shade, for example, morning sun and afternoon shade. Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) can tolerate the most sun and drier conditions, but they still need constant moisture to perform well.

You can explore tons of stunning hydrangeas for sale online from Wayside Gardens.

Are you looking for an effective, natural, and chemical-free way to protect your plants from pests this summer? If so, you've got to try diatomaceous earth.

It may be a mouthful to say, but it's actually very simple. Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a naturally occurring powder made of fossilized microscopic aquatic organisms called diatoms, hence the name. To humans and pets, it feels like a soft, fine dust. But to any non-flying garden pest – cutworms, beetles, ants, slugs, aphids, and more – it acts like a razor field. The sharp particles coat the pest's exoskeleton, absorbing its waxy outer protective layer and causing it to dehydrate, killing it quickly. It's totally natural, and totally effective.

There are a few different diatomaceous earth products on the market, and getting the right one for the job is important if you want it to work. Let's take a look at the main ways you might want to use DE, and the product best suited to each.

The Best Starter Package

Harris 10-lb Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth With Powder Duster

If you're new to the world of diatomaceous earth and want to protect your plants easily and effectively, this kit from Harris is where to start. This 10 lb bag is food grade diatomaceous earth, which means you can use it on edibles and around children and pets. It's also OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) listed, which means it's totally compliant with organic gardening practices. And at 10 pounds, it's going to last you a long, long time.

This kit comes with a bulb applicator, which lets you puff a fine, even layer of dust onto small, hard-to-reach spots like the undersides of leaves and branch nodes, where larvae tend to hide out.

For Precision Jobs

Relime Diatomaceous Earth Powder, Adjustable Pump Applicator, Duster, Dispenser, & Sprayer

If you're growing in containers, hanging baskets, or window boxes, you don't really need a ten pound bag of diatomaceous earth. And if you're using it near windows or doors, you definitely don't want a big cloud of powder billowing around.

That's why this powder duster is perfect. It holds a small amount of DE, but it delivers it exactly where it needs to be – around container rims, along raised bed perimeters, even up high! It has extendible nozzle attachments that reach up to four feet (1.2 m), earning it its "ground to gutter" slogan.

For Indoor/Outdoor Use

Safer Home 4-lb Indoor/Outdoor Diatomaceous Earth

It's true that we're focusing on garden pests, but what if you want to bring your garden indoors? After all, houseplants are just as prone to pests as their outdoor cousins. This diatomaceous earth is formulated, tested, and EPA-registered for both indoor and outdoor use. It's odorless, non-staining, and free of synthetic chemicals, so you can use it indoors without worrying. Whether you have aphids on your plants or ants in your kitchen, there's no need to go and buy a whole new product. This one has you covered inside and out.

For Large-Scale Coverage

diatomaceousearth.com 10-lb Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth

If you're dealing with a widespread outbreak in your garden or lawn, or just have a lot of ground to cover, squeeze bottles and bulb applicators aren't going to cut it. This 10 lb bag will get the job done. Made by the folks at diatomaceousearth.com, who certainly seem to know their product. (They actually recommend mixing it into your food, but I'm only here to give gardening advice, so I'm not going to weigh in on that).

If your container garden started out thriving in May but completely gave up by July, you're probably not doing anything wrong with your watering or feeding. Actually, you're doing something wrong before you even get to the garden center.

Instagram influencer @mamakaytie.green puts it bluntly: "Flowers don't fail in pots because you picked the wrong color. They fail because you paired a sun-loving drought survivor with a shade-loving moisture addict and watered somewhere in the middle." To put it simply, the problem isn’t your commitment; it’s the compatibility of your plants.

(Image credit: Tunatura / Shutterstock)Why Mixed Containers Work So Well

The appeal of growing multiple flowers in a single pot has taken off for good reason. Cindy Funes, founder of Garden Revelry and a certified professional horticulturist, explains it well: "Mixed flower container plantings are popular because they are space-efficient, creating seasonal impact, and the feeling of a whole garden without requiring a full garden. A thoughtfully planted container with a combination of flowers can feel like a floral arrangement, but one that lasts much longer and changes over the season."

There's also something about the visual effect that a single plant just can't achieve. "When you combine flowers and foliage with different heights, textures, colors, and growth habits, the planting can feel a little more expressive, and your eye moves through it instead of landing on one flat note," Funes says. "It creates a pause – and I think that's what people are craving right now."

The Framework Every Beginner Needs

(Image credit: jorgeantonio)

Before you start grabbing every pretty thing in the plant section, it will be more helpful to start with some structure. McCauley Adams, principal designer and owner of Ramble on Rose Garden Design in Louisville, lives by one rule: "thriller, filler, and spiller – something tall and structural, something full in the middle, and something that creeps over the edges." He's been using it to get client patios Derby Ready this spring with combinations like coral geranium, diamond frost euphorbia, and potato vine, as well as Kimberly Queen fern, blue hydrangea macrophylla, and potato vine and vinca vine.

Funes agrees with the framework as a starting point: "Although it's basic, it is still a wonderful place to start because it naturally creates layers within a planting. From there, keep the color palette simple, select a mix of textures and leaf shapes, and choose plants with a long bloom time."

6 Container Planting Recipes Worth Trying

These easy thriller, filler, spiller recipe combine compatible plants for a balanced, professional-looking display that keeps its color through fall.

1. Geraniums + Petunias + Ivy

"As a beginner, you can't go wrong using geraniums, petunias, and ivy," says Seymen Usta, CEO and landscape designer at Modern Chandelier. Together, they make a well-balanced container combination, with upright geraniums providing height, petunias filling the middle with abundant color, and ivy trailing gracefully over the edges.

Crucially, they also thrive in broadly similar conditions, preferring well-drained soil and regular watering, while the contrasting foliage and flower shapes keep the display looking full and varied.

(Image credit: Adam Yee/Getty Images/ Gemini AI)2. Pansies + Dusty Miller + Lobelia

Seymen also suggests that another classic combination is pansies, dusty miller, and lobelia. Together, they create a beautifully layered container, with pansies providing bold color, dusty miller adding silvery foliage and structure, and lobelia spilling softly over the edges.

All three prefer cooler conditions, making them especially well suited to spring and fall displays.

(Image credit: Cciexplore / Shutterstock)3. Zinnias + Marigolds + Portulaca

Zinnias, marigolds, and portulaca for full sun and heat make for a great drought-proof trio. "It's the pot you forget to water that still looks good in August!" says @mamakaytie.green.

All three thrive in full sun and well-drained soil, while their varied flower shapes create a cheerful, long-lasting mix. Zinnias provide the height, marigolds give dense color through the middle, and low-growing portulaca softens the edges.

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)4. Petunias + Calibrachoa + Verbena

Petunias, calibrachoa, and verbena for a trailing hanging basket (like these on Amazon) that covers an entire porch railing. They are ideal for creating a container that looks effortlessly abundant, as their blooms mingle and spill together in a cascade of color. They all flower best in a sunny spot and, with regular feeding and watering, will keep the display going for months.

(Image credit: Alamy)5. Begonias + Impatiens + Coleus

Begonias, impatiens, and coleus bring plenty of color to containers that receive little direct sun. The flowers of begonias and impatiens brighten shady spots, while coleus adds bold, long-lasting foliage that keeps the display interesting even between blooms.

(Image credit: Janice Storch / Shutterstock)6. Dahlias + Cannas + Sweet Potato Vine

Dahlias and cannas turn a large container into a bold, tropical-looking focal point, while ornamental sweet potato vine tumbles over the rim to soften all that height. Give the combination a deep pot, rich soil, and full sun, and it will build into an impressive display that lasts throughout summer.

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)Shop Container Flowers

Proven Winners Pink Supertunia Vista Bubblegum (4 Pack)

This vigorous petunia delivers nonstop bubblegum-pink blooms and cascades beautifully from sunny containers and hanging baskets.

Proven Selections Solera Dark Red Geranium

For a bold container focal point, this heat-tolerant geranium produces rich dark-red blooms from planting until frost.

American Beauties Great Blue Lobelia

This native perennial produces striking blue flower spikes that draw butterflies and hummingbirds.

Home Grown Thumbelina Zinnia Seeds

These compact zinnias bring months of mixed color to sunny containers while attracting bees and butterflies.

Proven Winners Superbells Evening Star Calibrachoa

Purple blooms with golden star-shaped centers spill beautifully from sunny pots, baskets, and window boxes.

Proven Winners Sunpatiens Compact Purple Impatiens

Bring vivid purple color to sunny or partly shaded containers with this compact, long-flowering impatiens.

The Mistake That Kills the Whole Pot

Every expert lands on the same issue. Funes calls it out directly: "One of the most common mistakes I see people making is combining plants with different exposure requirements – mixing sun-loving plants with shade plants, or pairing drought-tolerant with thirsty water-loving plants."

Adams agrees: "The most common mistake I see is a single plant sitting too low with no height or texture contrast." And Usta flags overcrowding: "Too many plants will compete for water, light, and nutrients."

Keeping It Going All Season

(Image credit: Kypros / Getty Images)

Getting the combination right is only half the job. Adams is specific about maintenance: "Keep combinations thriving with consistent moisture, regular deadheading, and a mid-season cutback on aggressive fillers – sweet potato vine especially. Slow-release granular at planting (try this Osmocote Slow-Release plant food on Amazon), liquid feed monthly through summer."

Funes adds that spacing matters more than most people think: "Planting with enough spacing and choosing plants with similar growth rates means plants have room to fill in and no single plant overwhelms another. Reading the plant tag is a great place to start."

Get the roommates right, and the pot will take care of itself. Get them wrong, and you'll be making a second trip to the garden center before August.

Lavender makes any yard feel sun-drenched, softly scented and altogether dreamier – if you choose the best lavender variety for your climate, that is. Pick a lavender that's less than ideal and that billowy purple haze will be short-lived when a bitter winter, a prolonged soggy spell or relentless tropical heat takes its toll. Whether you want a fragrant border, a bee-friendly pot by the back door or armfuls of stems for drying, choosing the right lavender is the difference between a fleeting flourish and a plant that truly earns its place in your garden year after year.

Matching the best lavender variety to your USDA zone is the smartest place to start when growing this garden must-have. From hardy, yard-worthy choices for chilly northern regions to heat-loving types that can cope with the Deep South and beyond, this guide brings together one perfectly-suited lavender for every zone. Because, while those 'suitable for zone X' tags give you a pretty good indication of whether the plant will survive a particular climate, they paint too broad a brushstroke to tell you which varieties will truly thrive.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you've ever visited a lavender farm, then you'll know how intense lavender color, fragrance and flower density can be – and you can be sure that's down to selecting the exact right variety for the conditions as well as good care.

Besides, there's far more to discover than the familiar purple classics, with white, pink and foliage-led lavender varieties all waiting in the wings. A clear lavender recommendation for every zone, practical lavender growing tips and plenty of planting inspiration will help you pick the perfect lavender for your plot. And with the exact right variety for your climate, you can turn a sunny spot into a richly scented, pollinator-friendly haven full of fragrant lavender blooms, wherever you garden.

Best Lavender for Zones 1-3: Munstead

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Enjoying the dreamy scent of lavender in zones 1 to 3 is totally possible through the summer months with Lavandula angustifolia 'Munstead' if you grow it in a pot in your sunniest garden spot, and move to a bright, cool but frost-free spot through winter. That's an easy task if you pop a plant dolly with lockable wheels such as this indoor/outdoor caddy from Amazon under the pot.

‘Munstead’ is a classic English lavender with soft blue-purple flowers and a lovely culinary fragrance, and is compact enough to love life in a container. Because it blooms relatively early in summer, its flowers set a strong display even where the growing season is short and cool. This is a super variety to dry, too, and its edible flowers have a sweet, mild flavor so you can bring the scent and taste of summer to those long winter months. Munstead lavender plants are available from Burpee.

• Perennial outside in zones 4-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-July
• Grows 18" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 4: Phenomenal

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Lavandula x intermedia 'Phenomenal’ is a newer hybrid that’s a hardier, more adaptable lavender, coping better than most with cold winters down to around -20°F, summer heat and a little humidity. In fact, it's often touted as the toughest lavender, ever, so it's easily the best lavender variety for zone 4. While it laughs in the face of heat or cold, it does need good drainage so plant it in the sunniest, driest place you have – think raised beds, a gravel garden or beside a warm south-facing wall.

Its height and resilience makes Phenomenal lavender a fabulous choice for an informal hedge either side of a path, but it's equally good in a big pot near a bench for maximum fragrance appreciation. Its long purple flower stems are also excellent for cutting, drying and stuffing into homemade lavender bags. Phenomenal lavender plants are stocked by Burpee.

• Perennial in zones 4-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-July
• Grows to 3' high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 5: Exceptional

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Another hybrid cross between English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and spike or Portuguese lavender (Lavandula latifolia), Lavanadula x intermedia Exceptional brings a softer, more unexpected colour palette to zone 5. Its clean white flowers glow against narrow silvery foliage, especially in evening light, and it feels wonderfully fresh mixed with pale pink roses, white cosmos or blue salvia. Use Exceptional to light up the front edge of a sunny border or pop it in a plain terracotta pot for chic simplicity.

Exceptional lavender plants are available from Plant Addicts and this robust, resilient variety will thrive in zone 5, combining excellent cold hardiness to around -20°F with a remarkably long flowering season, provided the soil drains quickly.

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-August
• Grows to 28" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 6: Big Time Blue

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Lavandula angustifolia ‘Big Time Blue’ is a fairly compact lavender with impressively large, deep violet-blue flower spikes. It’s an excellent choice for zone 6 because winters are cold enough to satisfy English lavender’s preference for a winter rest, while summers are warm enough to produce its beautifully plump flower spikes.

Its neat cushions of sweetly scented blooms will fill your yard with color and buzzing bees all summer long, making it especially well-suited for edging a paved courtyard, lining a walkway, or adding structure to a narrow border where larger lavenders would feel too bulky. Big Time Blue lavender plants are available from Plant Addicts.

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-August
• Grows 28" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 7: Provence

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A cross between English lavender and spike or Portuguese lavender, Lavanadula x intermedia 'Provence' is a tall lavender with long flower wands, a strong fragrance and a wonderfully relaxed French-country look. It will produce exceptionally long flower stems and abundant blooms when given extended summer heat, making it the perfect choice for zone 7. Just give it plenty of room to stretch out and show off, rather than squeezing it into a tiny border, as it will flourish!

Provence lavender plants are stocked by Nature Hills and should be planted in a sun-drenched spot and allowed to become a slightly unruly billow of delicious perfume. Take advantage of this plant's slightly wilful nature and use it for softening the edge of a sunny driveway or creating a heavenly drift to meander through. The stems dry brilliantly for everlasting bunches and wreaths, too.

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-August
• Grows to 18" high and 24" wide

Best Lavender for Zone 8: Goodwin Creek Grey

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‘Goodwin Creek Grey’ is the foliage-lover’s lavender that's expecially valuable in zone 8 because it tolerates heat, humidity and mild winters better than most English lavenders. Even summer temperatures that regularly reach 90°F won't phase this reliable bloomer! Its large, toothed, silvery-grey evergreen leaves add great texture even when the flowers take a break. And that's not often, as Lavandula x ginginsii 'Goodwin Creek Grey' is a hybrid cross that's sterile – which means it doesn't set seed so flowers for months and months. And the dark violet-blue spikes are just wonderful!

This variety has a slightly wilder, coastal-Mediterranean feel than a formal English lavender and it’s a great feature plant, especially in a large container or as a sculptural accent in a gravelly border, jostling among ornamental grasses, agaves and drought-loving salvias. Goodwin Creek Grey lavender plants are available to buy from the Winter Greenhouse Store via Amazon.

• Zones 9-11
• Full sun
• Flowers May-October
• Grows to 12" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 9: Sensational!

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A cross between sweetly fragrant English lavender and Portuguese lavender which has a sharper, fresher scent, Lavandula x intermedia Sensational! has a perfume that's perfect for a hot day. This is a sturdy lavender with large dark-purple flowers that won’t flop at the first sight of rain or wind, and is particularly happy in zone 9 where warm summers encourage generous reblooming from May to September. This hybrid's improved tolerance of heat and humidity gives it an edge over fussier English types, too.

Hardy to about 0°F, the real strength of Sensational! is its sturdy flower spikes that hold up exceptionally well during hot summers, often continuing to bloom through prolonged periods of heat that cause other lavenders to fade. For this reason, it makes a superb backbone in a pollinator border or a striking focal point in a large container. Sensational! lavender plants are available from Plant Addicts.

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers May-September
• Grows to 24" high and 36" wide

Best Lavender for Zone 10: The Princess

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Just as its name promises, Lavandula stoechas The Princess is gloriously theatrical, with bright pink flower heads and showy pink bracts that dance above the foliage. It’s ideal for zone 10 where, in frost-free or nearly frost-free climates, it will flower for months on end, often from spring through to fall.

The Princess lavender plants are available to buy at Lowe's, and this diva deserves a starring role that allows its dramatic Spanish character to shine through a long, warm season. Use it in a statement pot by a pool, at the center of a sunny courtyard, or mixed with white gaura and silver foliage for a gloriously elegant combo.

• Zones 8-11
• Full sun
• Flowers March-November
• Grows to 30" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 11-13: French

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Rain and humidity are challenges for growing lavender in a tropical climate, but it's perfectly possible if you know which type to choose. So, if you're wondering which lavender to plant in zone 11, 12 or 13, look no further than French lavender (Lavandula dentata). For fragrance as well as looks, this warm-climate charmer with finely toothed leaves is a clear winner. Adapted to subtropical and Mediterranean climates with very mild winters, it will bloom almost continuously throughout the year, including during periods of intense heat.

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French lavender plants are stocked by Plants Express and, while they're recommended for zones 8-11, you can stretch this by giving plants great air circulation to guard against fungal disease, and protection from heavy rain. Though it's a sun-lover, it's a smart idea to position it so it's shaded from intense midday sun, too. It hates to have soggy roots so plant in a tall pot filled with a fast-draining potting soil, placed on risers, then stand the container beside your outdoor sofa because you'll love this lavender's heady scent.

• Zones 8-11
• Full sun
• Flowers March-November
• Grows to 24" high and 54" wide

Lavender Secrets to Success in Any Zone

Lavender is one of the most ravishing purple flowers of all time and is super-easy to grow, providing you stick to these growing tips.

• Choose a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day.
• Well-draining, gritty soil is a must. Improve heavier soils with coarse grit and plant on a slight mound rather than in a dip and, if your ground tends to stay wet, consider planting in a raised bed, on a slope or in a container.
• In a pot, a suitably fast-draining soil is easily achieved by mixing a few handfuls of a succulent soil mix such as Jacks Gritty Mix from Amazon with any all-purpose potting soil. Raising the pot on risers such as these pot lifters from Amazon, too, is a must.
• Giving lavender plants a gravel mulch helps drainage, airflow and suppresses weeds, in pots as well as the ground.
• Avoid rich compost and heavy feeding as overly fertile soil encourages soft, floppy growth and fewer flowers.
• Water new plants regularly and deeply for their first season but let the soil dry between waterings. Once established, lavender is drought-tolerant, though you'll still need to water occasionally in extended dry spells, and more often in containers.
• Prevent fungal problems, especially in humid climates, by giving plants enough space to allow good airflow.
• Prune lavender immediately after flowering, and trim into shape in early spring, but never cut into old, leafless wood.