Organic Gardening News

Summer may end in September, but vegetable gardening doesn’t have to. The soil is still warm from the summer, air temperatures are dropping, and many cool-season veggies actually perform better this time of year. Now is the time to plant crops that mature quickly for a fall harvest and those that are hardy and will establish over winter, providing an early spring harvest.

Here are some of our favorites to plant in fall along with some tips for healthy plants and an abundant harvest. And if you’re new to growing veggies, check out our comprehensive guide to starting a vegetable garden.

1. Spinach

(Image credit: Oliver Helbig / Getty Images)

Spinach thrives in cooler weather and tends to bolt in summer heat, so now is a great time to grow it. Start with seeds, and you’ll have baby greens in as little as 30 to 40 days. You can harvest the older leaves too, as long as you pick them before you get freezing temperatures. If you have a lot of time left in the season, sow seeds in weekly succession for a staggered harvest.

If you have a milder winter in your area, you can also overwinter spinach for a spring harvest. Use a light row cover and mulch around the plants to keep them warm enough to survive and provide a harvest of mature leaves in early spring.

Space Spinach - 300 Seeds

2. Kale

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Kale is one of the most cold-hardy of all veggies, so definitely consider planting it this fall. In fact, cooler temperatures produce sweeter and more tender leaves. You can sow seeds, but kale won’t grow as fast as spinach, so consider getting transplants, depending on when you’re starting and your winter climate.

You can harvest baby leaves and also let the plants mature. They’ll still be harvestable well into fall and even into winter, depending on the climate and weather. If your winters are mild, kale needs no protection. Use a cloche or fabric to protect plants in colder winters if you plan to keep harvesting past the first freeze.

Kale Blend - 100 Seeds

3. Radishes

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Radishes both like cool weather and grow very quickly, among the fastest maturing of all vegetables. You can sow seeds for radishes in September and have a harvest in as soon as three weeks. Sow seeds in succession to get a few harvests out of the season.

Because they mature so quickly, you probably won’t need any cold-weather protection for your radishes. If some are still going as temperatures drop significantly, use a floating row cover and mulch to protect roots.

Cooks Custom Blend Radish - 575 Seeds

4. Winter Salad Greens

(Image credit: Tim Gainey / Alamy)

Sow seeds for a few types of cool-season leafy greens for a fall salad garden. Arugula and mesclun are good options. You’ll be able to harvest baby leaves within a few weeks. Sow seeds in succession for a continuous fall harvest of salad greens.

Depending on your weather and if you provide some protection, like row covers, you can continue growing these greens throughout fall or even into winter. Cloches, row covers, and cold frames can significantly extend the season. Also, consider growing greens in containers, which can be more easily protected.

Salad Cutting Mix - 1500 Seeds

5. Garlic

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Planting garlic now allows it to establish roots over winter. You’ll get your harvest next summer, so this is one to plant if you don’t need instant gratification. Plant cloves of garlic pointy side up several inches apart. Cover the soil with a good layer of mulch to protect the cloves and roots from cold and frost heaving.

Your garlic will be ready to harvest next summer when the foliage begins to yellow and die back. Be sure to get good quality cloves to plant. Grocery store cloves don’t always work.

Chesnok Red Garlic Bulbs

6. Hardy Onion Sets

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As with garlic, you can plant onions now for next year’s harvest. Look for hardy onion varieties that are meant to overwinter. Plant the sets root side down in prepared soil with plenty of space for each one based on the expected mature bulb sizes.

Add mulch over the plants to protect them from cold winter weather. If you have more extreme winters, you might also need a row cover. Depending on the variety you choose and your climate, the onions will be ready to harvest next spring or early summer.

Onion Sets (long Day) - Yellow Stuttgarter

7. Broad Beans

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Broad beans, or fava beans, can easily be overwintered in gardens with mild winter weather. Sow seeds directly outside, but be sure to choose a variety that has some cold hardiness. Your autumn-sown seeds should give you an early spring crop next year.

Use mulch around plants for some protection, and provide some type of vertical structure as it grows, especially if your garden gets a lot of wind. If your winter weather is borderline or you expect an unusual cold snap, use a row cover or cloches to protect young plants.

Windsor Fava Bean Seeds

Tips for Fall Vegetable Gardens

To make the most of your fall plantings, take time to prepare the soil first. Remove any spent summer crops and weeds. Add compost or other organic matter to lighten and enrich the soil. Break up any soil that has become compacted and ensure it drains well.

After sowing seeds or putting in transplants, remember to water regularly. Generally, you can ease up on watering in the garden in fall, but your seedlings and young plants will be thirsty, so keep them watered if it doesn’t rain. Water container plants more frequently.

Never assume fall and winter weather will be consistent or predictable. Check weather often, and provide protection if you expect early frosts and freezes or an unusual cold snap. Use row covers, old sheets, cloches, or containers that you can move for protection and warmth.

September is a transition month, but it doesn’t have to be the end of growing vegetables. Extend your season with quick-growing veggies and use the winter as a time to establish plants like garlic and onions. Good preparation and an eye on the weather will allow you to keep your vegetable garden going long after summer ends.

Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.) is one of the most common lawn weeds, but it can be difficult to catch before it gets too big. This grass-like weed sneaks into lawns unnoticed and can eventually take over. It’s hard to get rid of once it takes hold, so catching it early and understanding why it’s in your yard in the first place is vital.

Crabgrass emerges in the spring when temperatures reach around 60°F. This common lawn weed then germinates and begins growing in your yard. It can ruin the look of a perfectly lush lawn and it can also signal other issues at play.

Here’s what crabgrass is trying to tell you about the health of your lawn. Plus, I’ll share tips to prevent crabgrass taking over your entire yard.

What Is Crabgrass?

Crabgrass is an annual grass-like weed that is common in lawns. It looks similar to turfgrass, but it is often lighter in color and grows in clumps that turn into patches across lawns. It thrives in full sun and is often found in areas with thin turfgrass or bare spots in the garden.

Crabgrass dies off as the summer ends, but can set large amounts of seeds from the tassel-like flowers it forms throughout the growing season. These become the next year’s weed infestation, so it’s important to deal with crabgrass before it sets seed.

Why Your Yard Is Covered in Crabgrass

Crabgrass, like many other common weeds, can signal other underlying problems in your lawn. Healthy lawns are less likely to be impacted by crabgrass. So weeds, as annoying as they are, can actually tell you important information about your lawn care routine and how to improve it.

1. Compacted Soil

(Image credit: Oldboys / Shutterstock)

Crabgrass is a common symptom of compacted soil. Too much foot traffic, heavy machinery from construction, a lack of aeration, and heavy clay soil can all contribute to this problem.

Aerating your lawn is an easy way to prevent and fix compacted soil in your yard. You can either hire a professional to do this necessary job for you or you can try it yourself. There are battery-powered aerators, like this one from Ryobi, that you can rent or buy. But if you have a small yard, you can just use a small manual aerator, like this bestselling aerator from Amazon.

2. Thinning Grass & Bare Patches

(Image credit: Trudie Davidson / Getty Images)

Thinning grass and bare patches of soil in your lawn are also prime breeding grounds for crabgrass. Thinning is often caused by too much shade, lack of overseeding, common lawn diseases and pests, and removing a large amount of weeds from your lawn.

Overseeding your lawn is a good way to fill in bare patches or areas of thinning turf. The type of lawn seed you need depends on your growing zone and the light conditions in your yard. But Home Depot has a wide selection of grass seed for every part of the country.

3. Mowing Too Much

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Mowing your lawn too short or too frequently can also encourage crabgrass. If grass blades aren’t long enough to capture the required sunlight to grow a strong root system, this can encourage bully weeds like crabgrass to take over.

Follow the one-third rule when it comes to mowing your lawn. Only cut off one-third of the length of the blades to ensure your grass has enough surface area to get the required sunlight and to also shade out small weeds.

How short you mow your lawn should also change with the seasons. As heat rises and growth slows down towards the end of summer, it’s time to cut back on mowing.

4. Improper Fertilizing

(Image credit: groveb / Getty Images)

Not fertilizing your lawn enough can cause turfgrass to weaken and crabgrass to take hold. However, overfertilizing is also detrimental to the health of your lawn and can encourage crabgrass and other weeds. Fertilizing during the heat of summer or too frequently can stress turfgrass and cause it to weaken, which gives weeds an advantage.

Use a fertilizer combined with a pre-emergent herbicide, like this one from Scotts, that not only feeds your lawn but prevents crabgrass as well. Feeding your lawn at the beginning of the season with a fertilizer like this sets up your lawn for healthy growth all summer.

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

2446 Tolmie Ave., Coquitlam

Type: Six-bedroom, four-bathroom detached

Size: 4,127 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,783,000

Listed for: $1,880,000

Sold for: $1,830,000

Sold on: June 30

Days on market in this listing: 16

Listing agent: Danny Chow PREC and Salina Kai PREC at Rennie & Associates Realty

Buyers agent: Steven Chou PREC at LeHomes Realty Premier

The big sell: The listing agents described this Coquitlam home as a “Tudor-style executive residence” due to its timbered exterior, angular roof lines, and modern esthetic inside. That interior style showcases refinished Brazilian cherry hardwood floors, contemporary LED lighting, spa-inspired bathrooms, three fireplaces, and a Shaker kitchen with flat-panelled cabinets and a neutral colour scheme. Recent updates include new carpets, air conditioning, fresh paintwork, and upgrades to the furnace and gutters. A fully-finished walkout basement containing a bedroom, bathroom, recreation and flex rooms offers additional sleeping quarters and entertainment options. The rear garden is south facing and features a spacious deck, patio and hot tub. R.C. MacDonald Elementary School is nearby alongside Mundy Park, shopping, transit, and highway access.

405 — 228 East 4th Ave., Vancouver

Type: One-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment

Size: 772 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $751,000

Listed for: $769,000

Sold for: $780,000

Sold on: July 20

Days on market in this listing: Seven

Listing agent: Philip Watkinson PREC at ReMax Crest Realty

Buyers agent: Stephen Morris at Oakwyn Realty

The big sell: Mount Pleasant’s Watershed live/work loft building celebrated its 30th birthday this year surrounded by a growing community of boutique stores, craft breweries, eateries, and artistic hubs. This particular home is situated on the corner of the fourth floor and features soaring 17-foot-high ceilings with exposed pipework, polished concrete floors, and expansive windows that frame north-facing corridor views of the mountains and city. The two-level interior has a spiral staircase that leads up to the bedroom on a mezzanine floor, while the main level contains the kitchen, bathroom, living and dining areas with sliding glass doors that open to a Juliet balcony. The home is accessed via an open-air passageway that offers outdoor space for a barbecue and potted plants. It comes with a monthly maintenance fee of $463.65, and a parking stall in the underground garage.

511 — 108 East 8th St., North Vancouver

Type: One-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment

Size: 626 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $717,000

Listed for: $688,000

Sold for: $700,000

Sold on: June 26

Days on market in this listing: 45

Listing agent: Matt Council PREC at Rossetti Realty

Buyers agent: Caylee Gaylard and Adam Chahl PREC at Oakwyn Realty

The big sell: A Central Lonsdale position is one of the highlights of this one-bedroom-plus-flex unit in the award-winning Crest development by Adera. Constructed in 2021 with SmartWood technology that provides superior sound-dampening acoustics, it comprises 179 homes divided over six storeys with amenities that include a fully-equipped gym, a dog wash station, bike service room, and a rooftop lounge. This home has 626 square feet of living space with oversized windows, mountain vistas, quartz countertops, a gas cooktop, radiant heat, a four-piece cheater ensuite bathroom, and a covered balcony in excess of 100 square feet complete with a gas bib for year-round barbecues. One parking stall and a storage locker come with the home, as well as a monthly maintenance fee of $365.95, and a strata that permits pets and rentals with some restrictions.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

Related

• Sold (Bought): Whistler home showcases stunning lake and mountain views
• Sold (Bought): West Vancouver home blends luxury with functionality

When I heard that the legendary Tim Curry had died, I did what I suspect an awful lot of people did: I immediately started thinking about all of his performances I loved.

Front and center, of course, was Dr Frank-N-Furter in The Rocky Horror Picture Show, the role that made him an icon. But for me, Curry was also Wadsworth in Clue, Rooster in Annie, Long John Silver in Muppet Treasure Island, the unforgettable concierge in Home Alone 2, and (ahem) Nigel Thornberry in The Wild Thornberrys.

Whichever role you love the most, I think we can all agree that he had that rare quality of seeming completely himself in every role – oozing confidence, wit and just the right amount of mischief. No wonder, then, he seemed like a real gem of a man off-screen, too – and a keen gardener to boot.

All Hail Tim Curry's Favorite Garden Feature

Yes, it may surprise you to learn that Tim Curry wasn't simply someone who enjoyed pottering around with plants; he was a genuinely passionate horticulturist who designed, developed, and restored gardens, and he had a wonderfully thoughtful way of talking about what a garden could actually be.

Grand Central Publishing Vagabond: A Memoir

The memoir of the legendary Tim Curry imparts the full range of the “escapades, illusions, and contractions I've collected recklessly over the course of my vagabond days”.

Asked where his love of gardening came from, he joked that "if you're English, a trowel appears in your hand when you're 30 like a prosthetic device". British or not, though, most of us don't have the opportunity to create a garden for the likes of Freddie Mercury (yes, Tim Curry really did do just that!).

Naturally, though, the true intrigue comes from Curry's own garden. Because, when he bought a dilapidated 1920s Spanish Colonial Revival house in Los Feliz and painstakingly restored it, he spent ages tracking down the property's original plans and bringing his own ideas to the home and garden.

And the best feature,? Well, it wasn't what you'd expect.

A post shared by Tim Curry (@officialtimcurry)

A photo posted by

In his garden, Tim Curry favored colorful planting – but, as per his biography, his favorite part of the plot was actually the clever garden seating he set out. "I made two patios with benches. From one you can see the sun rise and from one you can watch the sun set," he explained. "Often I just sit up there and see what I imagine for the next project."

It's a timely reminder that a garden isn't really finished when you've planted it; you need somewhere to sit and enjoy it. And it is so easy to recreate in your own yard, as all you have to do is find the place in your garden where the morning or evening light is particularly beautiful, then pop a chair or bench there.

If you have space, Curry's idea can be taken one step further. Find an east-facing spot for morning coffee and an area with a good western view for the evening. Notice where the light falls at different times of year, and position accordingly. And, if you want to pay homage to a man who was always effortlessly himself, be sure to find a seat with its own style and panache, too!

Shop Garden Benches:

Carolayne Bench With Armrest

VINGLI Metal Rose Bench

Ktaxon Rustic Fir Wood Bench

What I particularly love about Curry's approach to gardening is that he didn't seem to view it as simply an exercise in making things look pretty. Indeed, in The Great Private Gardens of the World, he described his approach to be a case of "organizing nature not just into pleasing shapes, but also as a kind of spiritual resource."

It makes sense, then, that his two patios became places to pause, look, think and dream up the next project. Perhaps that's the real gardening lesson here, actually: don't design your garden solely around what you want to – instead, grow part of it around how you want to feel.

(Image credit: K Schulze/Getty Images)

Of course, the beloved actor's own love of gardening might have something to do with the fact that his father had created a garden from scratch during years of illness. "The 20th century has been very much about getting what you want now," he said famously. "Gardens are about making something terrific for those who come after."

He's not wrong; every time you plant something, it's an act of optimism. You grow a tree whose shade you might enjoy long before it reaches its eventual size. You improve the soil for plants you haven't even chosen yet. And, slowly, you build a better world for local wildlife and the people who come after you, too.

In the meantime, though, there is a way to get instant gratification from your own backyard, and it all comes down to Tim Curry's theory on benches. So, if you need me, I'm going to find my own patch of morning or evening light, put a chair there, and sit down. Join me, why don't you?

Sorting out the stash of garden tools in our sheds is a job we all need to do post-summer, and it looks like Walmart has already made a good start. Hundreds of garden tools are reduced and we’ve sifted through the pile to find the ones that are really worth buying. Whether you’re after loppers or a lawn mower, a trowel or a hedge trimmer, all these gardening tools have a minimum review rating of four stars so they’re worthy of adding to your backyard stash.

Let’s skip straight to the good bit with our pick of Walmart deals, shall we? Happy shopping!

Prep for Pruning

save $2.65

3 Precision Pruning Shears

These lightweight straight-tip snips in won't-lose-them-orange are handy for harvesting herbs and deadheading in the garden as well as pruning houseplants.

save $19

Paddsun Garden Shears Set

All with durable stay-sharp carbon steel blades, this set includes extendable loppers, hedge-pruning shears and bypass hand pruners.

save $10

WorkPro Professional Pruners

Both the 8-inch bypass pruners and 8-inch straight-tip pruners are made from durable carbon steel with a nickel-plated anti-rust finish.

Deal With Fall Leaves

save $35

Foukus Cordless Leaf Blower

A 90,000 RPM brushless motor delivers focused air power to clear up leaf, dust and light snow; two rechargeable batteries are included.

save $7

Pure Garden Leaf Scoops

Use these lightweight but durable hand rakes to make light work of clearing leaves; each measures 13.5 inches by 19.75 inches.

save $13

3 Yard Waste Bags

These waterproof, reusable 72-gallon polypropylene waste bags are useful for transporting fall leaves and pruned plant material.

Look After Your Lawn

save $37.83

3-in-1 Trimmer and Edger

This cordless Worx string trimmer switches quickly to an in-line wheeled edger and a mini-mower for comprehensive lawn care.

save $500

Genie3000 Robotic Mower

With 4-camera vision obstacle avoidance eliminating the need for clumsy perimeter wires, this cordless mower cuts lawns up to 0.91 acres.

save $18

Grass and Hedge Trimmer

Switch between the hedge trimming blades and grass edging shears, with two rechargeable 20V batteries giving up to 2 hours of runtime.

Banish Weeds

save $17

Push-Pull Weeding Hula Hoe

Slide the sturdy V-shaped stainless steel blade of this long-handled push-pull hoe under weeds to cut roots below the surface.

save $15

3 Weed Puller Tools

This set includes an L-shaped crack weeder, V-shaped tool for perennial weeds, claw tool for annual weeds and gloves.

save $14

4-Prong Weed Puller Tool

With an adjustable handle length, this stand-up tool removes weeds in lawns and borders, even persistent tap-rooted dandelion plants.

Trim Trees and Shrubs

save $5

Telescopic Tree Trimmer Saw

This manual pole saw has a carbon steel blade and a telescopic handle that extends to 12 feet for ladder-free pruning.

save $30.20

Extendable Anvil Loppers

With sharp high-carbon steel blades, a labor-saving lever design and telescopic handles that adjust from 27-41 inches for pruning trees.

save $21

Mini Cordless Chainsaw

With two batteries included, each with a 30-minute run time, this chainsaw is suitable for DIY, trimming branches and cutting firewood.

Make Life Easy

save $59

Steel Mesh Garden Cart

With removable sides, this robust 34” x 18” powder-coated metal cart with 550lbs capacity is available in black or green.

save $4

Garden Kneeler and Seat

This foldable gardening too has a cushioned kneeling pad/seat and two tool pouches on a strong 330lb-capacity steel frame.

save $62

Garden Wheelbarrow Cart

Holding up to 5 cubic feet with a plastic bin mounted on a powder-coated steel frame, this wheelbarrow has inflatable tyres for a smooth ride.

Treat Yourself

save $36.30

WorkPro Garden Tools Set

This 8-piece set comprises pruning shears, trowel and transplanting trowel, hand fork, weeder, cultivator, gloves and tote bag.

save $5

Digital Soil Tester Meter

This meter accurately measures soil moisture, temperature, pH and fertility as well as sunlight level and ambient humidity.

save $40

Cordless Pruning Shears

The high-carbon steel blades cut stems up to 1.18 inches in diameter, powered by rechargeable batteries for 1 hour runtime.

Upgrade Garden Irrigation

save $30

50 Foot No-Kink Hose

A stainless steel outer tube over a high-pressure inner hose and copper fittings pair with a thumb-controlled spray nozzle with 10 patterns.

save $15

Programmable Hose Timer

Easy to set up and simple to operate, this timer allows you to customize a schedule with watering frequency between 1 minute and 7 days.

save $116.99

Retractable Garden Hose Reel

An automatic return system with any-length lock and swivel wall-mounted bracket ensures hassle-free use of this 100-foot hose.

Snap Up a Sure-Bet Shovel

save $11

Flat Snow and Ice Shovel

This flat 76” shovel can be used to remove moss and weeds and edge paths and beds as well as shoveling ice and snow.

save $9.06

Tru Pro Digging Shovel

With large perforated turn stems and a D-grip handle, this Truper 40-inch steel round digging shovel has a sleeve comfort grip.

Save $1.05

Fiskars Ergo Trowel

Measuring 12.25 inches, this rust-resistant trowel has an ergonomic Softgrip handle to reduce wrist fatigue and a lifetime guarantee.

When Colleen and Doug Stewart listed their Kamloops house for sale, they were pretty confident it would be snapped up quickly. The three-bedroom home was fairly new, well-maintained, had a big backyard, and was within walking distance to an elementary school — ideal for a young family. On top of that, the interior was smartly decorated and nicely laid out. Or so they thought.

“Our real estate agent recommended we hire home stagers,” says the couple, which surprised them, as did the stagers’ suggestions.

“They recommended decluttering the kitchen — taking everything off the counters, removing personal items — putting rooms back to their original purpose (the couple had been using the dining room as an office), changing the hardware in the bathrooms because the drawer knobs looked out of date. They even suggested painting some rooms. They basically wanted it to look like a house and not a home.”

Creating a house, not a home

Betty Wharton, home staging consultant and owner of Chilliwack-based Happy Homes Staging Co. , seconds the house-over-home suggestion. “You need to take some of the personality out of your home.”

In addition to decluttering, she advises removing religious items, toiletries, pet items like dog beds or cat trees, and postcards stuck with magnets to the refrigerator.

Olivia Walsh, commercial operations manager for Burnaby-based Furniture Connection , says, “Sometimes it’s just rearranging the furniture to a better layout. Sometimes it’s getting rid of things that don’t need to be there, that are in bad condition or don’t show nice.”

Wharton agrees. “Usually people have too much furniture, so we’ll edit items to create a flow. We also suggest adding green plants because they bring life to a room. We’ll send people to the Dollar Store to get fake plants so they can have a couple in each room, one on every counter, including in the bathrooms.”

She says she will often add fresh white towels, bedding and shower curtain. “You want to create a neutral space but still have it feel warm and inviting,” she says, “because you want (potential buyers) to emotionally connect with a space. You want to highlight all of the home’s best features.”

As for the theory that wafts of fresh-baked bread or cookies, or even scented candles, will make a home feel inviting, Walsh snuffs out that notion. “Overpowering fake smells could tell people you’re hiding something. Better to stick with a good cleaning or fresh coat of paint, which can give it that new house smell.”

The stages of staging

Most stagers will come to your home to get a sense of how it will present and what it needs to showcase it at its best. That may entail rearranging furniture or removing some altogether and bringing in more suitable pieces.

The Stewarts’ stagers offered to lend them furniture but they decided instead to buy a few pieces for their dining room. “They did not move our furniture around, but I’m sure they would have if they believed it would be better,” says Colleen.

Wharton sources furniture from wholesalers or will sometimes recommend homeowners rent a few pieces. If the home doesn’t sell for a while, however, that could be an expensive proposition, in which case she suggests buying items on a platform like Facebook Marketplace and then reselling them afterward.

Furniture Connection, on the other hand, is primarily a furniture rental company with their own inventory. “We’ll go through the homeowner’s existing pieces and see if we can switch out some for something lighter, airier, more neutral that will showcase better,” says Walsh. “We’ll maybe change out their chunky black leather sectional that’s practical for living but not ideal for staging.”

Wharton says she avoids bringing in rugs or anything upholstered, which can get soiled or damaged, in favour of hard-surfaced items like dining chairs, bar stools or night stands. “We work with what people have. It’s a lot easier on their budget and easier to live with. We also position the furniture that is good for the camera angle because photos are so important. They’re the first line of attack to get people to your home.”

Stagers also work with vacant homes, bringing in furniture often only for the main floor, including the primary bedroom and bathrooms. “Places look a lot smaller when they don’t have furniture in them,” says Wharton. “People need help to see the potential in a place and connect with it.”

Vann De Marco, licensed real estate adviser with Oakwyn Realty Northwest, says, “I’ve found staging companies most helpful for vacant listings where visualizing a ‘lived-in’ space is otherwise difficult for most people. They do a great job of professionally laying out the home to maximize space and make it feel inviting. It’s amazing how different a home can feel empty versus fully staged with proper lighting and accessories. I would say that they most often result in a higher sale price compared to an unstaged, vacant home, with some exceptions, of course.”

He generally recommends staging a vacant condo in a building with several similar units for sale so it stands out.

“For occupied homes, it’s a case-by-case basis, but I don’t commonly use a full staging service unless the current furniture clearly diminishes the home’s potential or if it’s a unique style that might not appeal to most buyers,” says De Marco. “It’s usually sufficient to declutter and potentially rearrange furniture.”
Sometimes the style of the home — mid-century modern, character-rich heritage, or steel-and-glass condo — will dictate the furniture used in staging. “We try to work with the style of the home while keeping it neutral so it appeals to the most buyers,” says Walsh. “We want furniture that’s going to work for the majority of houses, so very neutral pieces, no crazy colours or styles, nothing too trendy, just good basics.”

Apartments and condos present their own unique challenges. “We have a team of warehouse and delivery coordinators, so we’re very familiar with those highrise buildings with their elevators, tiny hallways, tiny doorways, tiny bedrooms, tiny everything,” says Walsh. “We make it work but the transportation costs might be a bit higher if it’s a tricky unit to navigate or if it’s a walk-up.”

She says the entire process, from touring the home, taking measurements, notes and photos, selecting furniture, artwork and accessories then setting it all up, would typically take a week.

Stage it yourself

For homeowners who prefer to do it themselves, Wharton has a few tips over and above decluttering and either swapping out or paring down furniture. “Good lighting is really important, so make sure all your light bulbs work and match in each room. Usually 3000 K is the (best) warm bright light. You can go a bit brighter in bathrooms and kitchens or add in different types of lighting like table lamps or overhead light to create a nice atmosphere.”

And don’t forget your home’s curb appeal, since first impressions are important, she says. Simple, inexpensive touches like adding fresh bark mulch to your garden or painting your front door makes a big difference.

“Interestingly, houses with a black front door typically sell for $6,000 more than other coloured front doors,” says Wharton. “It looks sharp, and black is a receding colour, which draws you in.”

She advises choosing neutral over strong colours overall, however. “We always tell people to remove bright colours, especially red and pink, which photograph terribly. If there’s red in real estate photos, that’s all you see, it’s right where your eye goes. We like to start with neutrals and then add in warmth through layers and textures like wood and granary.

“Your home doesn’t have to be sterile and completely void of personality, and you still need to be able to live in it while you go through this process. But decluttering, deep cleaning, thinning out your furniture so there’s flow, will go a long way.”

Staging can help sell a home faster, but Wharton says, “It’s a tough market right now and everything is about price and presentation. Buyers have choices and they can be picky so you really have to do everything to make your property stand out from the rest.”

Walsh says she’s heard from homeowners who have followed all the advice, taken photos and listed their house, thinking it would sell quickly. “But it sat for a couple months. Then they would get it staged and it would sell within a couple weeks or the first month. It just shows how important staging is.”

The Stewarts went on to buy and sell two more houses after their Kamloops home sold within a week, thanks primarily to the staging. “Neither realtor suggested using stagers, but we found the Kamloops stagers’ advice very helpful and have used it for every subsequent move.”

Gardens aren’t just for daytime. Plan it right, and your garden can shine at night, too. As the sun goes down, many flowers close up but others open and actually release more fragrance. This is an evolutionary strategy to attract nighttime pollinators, but you can use it to your advantage.

Create an evening garden with night-scented flowers so you can enjoy gorgeous fragrances after the sun goes down. You don’t need an entire garden built around these flowers, but a few placed strategically around patios or decks and near open windows can transform your evenings.

Our suggestions here are known for nighttime aromas and include a variety of types, so you can find something suitable for your space.

1. Night-Blooming Jasmine

(Image credit: Esin Deniz / Getty Images)

Night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum) is a woody shrub that grows quickly and, despite its name, is not a true jasmine. It’s a nightshade, which means it's related to tomatoes.

What it does have in common with jasmine, though, is a strong aroma. It blooms at night and the very strong floral fragrance intensifies after dark. A little bit goes a long way, so consider placing it a little way away from a seating area.

Night-blooming jasmine is a tropical plant, hardy in USDA growing zones 8 through 11. It grows best in full sun or partial shade with fertile soil that drains well but stays consistently moist.

This shrub will grow quite large in warm climates, so give it plenty of room. Alternatively, you can keep it smaller in a container and bring it indoors in winter in colder zones.

Get a 3-pack of night-blooming jasmine online from the Home Depot.

2. Evening Primrose

(Image credit: Nickkurzenko / Getty Images)

Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) is a native biennial that grows well in full sun and soil that drains very well and may even be sandy. It’s hardy in zones 4 through 9 and grows vigorously, so be careful where you plant it.

Consider using containers for this flower or growing it in a naturalized native plant garden. Using containers is beneficial not only for containing evening primrose, but also so that you can move the flowers around to best capture the fragrance in the evening.

In terms of fragrance, evening primrose is delicate. The flowers open in the evening and release a light, sweet floral scent. Because the fragrance isn’t too strong, you can plant this close to seating areas.

Try this drought-tolerant Missouri evening primrose variety from High Country Gardens for extra easy care.

3. Moonflower

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For a night-scented vine that is an annual in most growing zones, consider the moonflower (Ipomoea alba). The large white flowers, which look similar to morning glories, open at night and release a scent that is often described as sweet and with hints of vanilla and almond.

Moonflower is a perfect choice for a pergola, arbor, trellis, or deck and balcony railings as it needs something to climb. Grow it in a spot with full sun or partial shade and rich, well-drained but moist soil. Moonflower grows quickly, so even when planted from seed in spring, you’ll soon have a vigorous, fragrant vine.

You can find heirloom moonflower seeds from Botanical Interests to start in next year's garden.

4. Angel’s Trumpet

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Angel’s trumpet (Brugmansia spp.) is a dramatic and showy shrub known for its large, trumpet-shaped flowers, which have a sweet and intensely floral aroma. The smell of the flowers intensifies in the evening.

Be sure to plant angel’s trumpet in a spot where you can enjoy both the fragrance and the spectacular flowers. It does best in full sun or partial shade with rich, fertile soil that stays moist.

You can grow angel’s trumpet year-round in zones 9 through 11 or as a container plant that you bring plants indoors for winter in colder areas. If you’re using a container, make sure it’s big enough to hold this large shrub.

Also, be aware that angel’s trumpet is highly toxic. It might not be the best choice if you have pets or small children.

You can get this unique tropical plant online from Walmart.

5. Flowering Tobacco

(Image credit: Michael Phillips / Getty Images)

Flowering tobacco (Nicotiana alata) is a tropical plant that is only hardy in zones 10 through 11, but it is very easy to grow as an annual anywhere. The abundant flowers are highly fragrant at night and have a jasmine or honey-like smell. It’s a good option for an easy-going plant that won’t grow too large or commit you to growing a perennial that needs more care.

Grow flowering tobacco in full sun or partial shade, especially in the afternoon in hot climates. The soil should be fertile and moist, but also drain well. You can find different varieties of nicotiana that vary in flower color and fragrance intensity. If you want a more intense aroma, group plants together near seating areas.

Try Park Seed's 'Sensation Mix' nicotiana seeds for a combination of colorful blooms.

6. Night-Scented Stock

(Image credit: Katerynap / Getty Images)

Night-scented stock (Matthiola longipetala) is an annual known for its spectacular evening fragrance. It’s described as having notes of spice, clove, and vanilla. While the flowers are delicate and airy, at night, they really come alive with an exotic scent.

Place these flowers in areas with full sun or partial shade and soil that drains well. Night-scented stock is best grown as a cool-season annual, so it will thrive in both spring and fall.

This is a small plant that isn’t too showy, so it’s great for getting more fragrance in a small garden and when tucked in among other plants or in containers.

Get night-scented stock seeds online from Amazon for only a few dollars.

7. Mock Orange

(Image credit: Mikhail Davidovich / Getty Images)

Mock orange (Philadelphus spp.) is a medium-sized shrub that is hardy in zones 4 through 8. Although not related, the aroma of the flowers is very similar to orange blossoms, sweet and citrusy.

Mock orange flowers don’t open at night, but they do produce a strong scent that lingers in the evening. Place it close to a patio or deck to make the most of it after sunset.

Mock orange grows best in full sun or some light shade. More sun leads to more flowers. The soil should drain well, but the shrub is tolerant of many conditions once it gets established. This is a great scent option if you’re looking for a permanent and sizable landscape element.

An 'Illuminati Sparks' mock orange from Wayside Gardens has gorgeous variegated foliage in addition to a beautiful scent.

Tips for Growing Fragrant Plants

Choosing the right plants for your night-scented garden is just the first step. To make the most of them, plant them where you’ll capture the aromas on outdoor evenings: next to patios and decks, on balconies, next to porch steps or along walkways, and near windows so you can enjoy them inside, too.

You can also use breezes to your advantage. If the evening winds tend to blow in one direction, be sure your seating areas are downwind of the fragrant plants. Also, consider layering these plants by height, including some taller and shorter options.

Of course, it’s also possible to overdo it with scented plants. Be selective and mix them in with plants that are not fragrant, so you don’t overwhelm your senses. Start with one or two options and then build from there as needed.

Is there anything more magical, more whimsical, than the concept of a birth month moon?

Yes, birth month flowers, birth month trees, birth month animals, and birth month birds might get all the attention, but the moon itself offers yet another way to connect your birthday with the natural world. Which makes sense, right? After all, long before printed calendars became commonplace, people looked to the moon to mark the passing of the seasons.

For centuries, communities across North America and Europe have given each full moon a name inspired by what they observed happening around them, whether that be flowers bursting into bloom, strawberries ripening, deer growing new antlers, or the arrival of winter snow. And, while today's most familiar moon names draw from a blend of traditions across the globe, they all share one thing in common: they celebrate nature's seasonal rhythms..

All 12 Birth Month Moons

For gardeners, the name of each full moon is especially meaningful, as they offer a snapshot of what is happening outdoors at that particular time of year, reminding us that the garden has always been closely tied to the changing seasons.

Better still? Well, birth month moons are rooted in folklore and observation, making them a fun, and surprisingly meaningful, way to celebrate yourself.

Shop Whimsical Moon Garden Products:

Go2garden Moon Star Solar Lights

AERLO Aerlo Moon Wall Planter

HOMEIMPRO Moon Solar Lights O

So, which full moon belongs to your birth month? Let's dive on in...

January – Wolf Moon

(Image credit: Lia Paugsch / 500px/Getty Images)

The Wolf Moon is perhaps the best-known of all the full moon names. Although many people assume it refers to hungry wolves roaming through deep winter, historians believe the name likely has European origins and reflects the sound of wolves howling during the coldest months of the year.

For gardeners, this birth month moon is perfectly synonymous with January, a month of quiet planning. Beds may be dormant, but seed catalogs are arriving, gardening journals are filling up with ideas, and the coming growing season begins to take shape.

If you were born under the Wolf Moon, its quiet resilience and strong sense of community likely feels a fitting reflection of your personality.

February – Snow Moon

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February's full moon earned its name because this was traditionally one of the snowiest months across much of North America. In some traditions it's also known as the Hunger Moon, reflecting how difficult hunting and foraging could be during late winter.

Although the garden may still feel asleep, signs of spring are beginning to emerge beneath the soil, from snowdrops to early crocuses. Naturally, then, those with the Snow Moon as their birth month moon are often associated with patience, quiet strength, and the promise that brighter days are ahead.

Shop Night-Scented Flowers:

Nature Hills Nursery August Beauty Gardenia

Daisy Ship Night Blooming Jasmine

Japanese Maples and Evergreens Double White Angel’s Trumpet

March – Worm Moon

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The Worm Moon signals one of the year's biggest seasonal shifts, leaning into that time when temperatures rise, the ground softens and earthworms begin returning to the surface, helping improve soil structure and fertility. (Anyone else suddenly keen tor read up on their birth month bug?).

For gardeners, this is when the growing season truly begins; in fact, it's the perfect time to enrich your soil with compost before spring planting gets underway. As a birth month moon, though, the Worm Moon symbolizes growth, renewal, and embracing fresh starts... which tallies up perfectly with the idea of getting back into things after a period of rest.

April – Pink Moon

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Despite its name, the April full moon doesn't actually appear pink. Instead, it's named after creeping phlox (Phlox subulata), a vibrant pink wildflower that carpets the ground across eastern North America each spring.

It's a reminder that gardens are coming alive with fresh color after the long winter, and it's the ideal time to plant creeping phlox or other early spring bloomers. No wonder people born beneath the Pink Moon are often linked with optimism, creativity, and an appreciation for life's simple beauty, right?

May – Flower Moon

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By May, the landscape is bursting with blossoms, making Flower Moon one of the easiest names to understand. Wildflowers, flowering shrubs, and ornamental trees are all reaching their peak, creating one of the most colorful months in the gardening calendar.

CraftSaints Gardening Moon Calendar

This gardening calendar is easy to use; just match the date of the new moon with the new moon on the inner wheel at the beginning of each month and follow the instructions on the wheel as the month progresses. 

It's easy to see, then, why the Flower Moon has become associated with warmth and abundance. If this is your birth month moon, then, you are beloved for your nurturing spirit.

June – Strawberry Moon

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Named for the short but sweet strawberry harvest, the Strawberry Moon marks one of early summer's most anticipated seasonal treats. Several Indigenous communities used this moon to signal that wild strawberries were ready for picking.

As a birth month moon, the Strawberry Moon represents sweetness, gratitude, and making the most of life's fleeting moments. How lovely!

July – Buck Moon

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During July, male deer begin growing fresh antlers covered in soft velvet, giving this full moon its memorable name. Other traditions refer to it as the Thunder Moon because of frequent summer storms.

When this moon rises, it means that the garden is now producing in abundance, but regular watering? Well, that is increasingly important (try to mulch around vegetables and flowering plants to help conserve moisture during the hottest weeks).

The Buck Moon is often seen as a symbol of confidence, personal growth, and stepping into your own strength. Ideal birth month moon, then, for those who give as good as they get!

August – Sturgeon Moon

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The Sturgeon Moon is named after the large freshwater fish that were traditionally caught in abundance during late summer across the Great Lakes and other waterways, making it yet another example of how closely moon names reflect the foods our ancestors enjoyed each season.

Those born under this birth month moon are associated with resilience, resourcefulness, and appreciating the rewards of patience. So, while you're harvesting tomatoes, beans, squash, and other late-summer crops, make sure you lean into the planning for fall planting, too.

September – Harvest Moon

(Image credit: Peter Olsen Photography/Getty Images)

The Harvest Moon is unique because it isn't tied to a calendar month; instead, it's the full moon that falls closest to the autumn equinox (which means it very occasionally occurs in October instead).

Traditionally, though, it's associated with September, as its bright light once helped farmers continue harvesting crops long after sunset. And, as such, its appearance in the sky means it's time to gather apples, pumpkins, squash, and late vegetables while preparing beds for cooler weather.

Quiwun Handwoven Wicker Picnic Basket

Perfect for garden harvesting and use as a functional basket for kitchen counters, this harvest basket is beautiful!

If the Harvest Moon is your birth month moon, it signifies your capacity for gratitude and generosity, and serves as a reminder to celebrate the rewards of your hard work.

October – Hunter's Moon

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Following the Harvest Moon comes the Hunter's Moon, traditionally associated with preparing for winter by hunting game once fields had been cleared. Without crops standing in the fields, wildlife was easier to spot.

For gardeners, it's a month of tidying borders, dividing perennials, and planting spring-flowering bulbs. Naturally, then, this birth month moon symbolizes focus, determination, and preparing thoughtfully for whatever comes next.

November – Beaver Moon

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The Beaver Moon refers to the time when beavers were busy reinforcing their lodges before winter, making it a cute one to watch for if you are a wildlife lover. It appears in the sky just as the gardening year is winding down, reminding us that there's still time to protect tender plants before freezing temperatures arrive (you just need to apply mulch around vulnerable perennials before the colder temperatures hit).

People born beneath the Beaver Moon are often linked with practicality, perseverance, and creating strong foundations for the future. Which means they'll also likely be fond of this very handy mulching quiz...

December – Cold Moon

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The year's final full moon reflects exactly what most people were experiencing: long nights, dropping temperatures, and the arrival of winter. (no surprises, then, that it's also sometimes known as the oddly melancholic-sounding Long Night Moon).

Although the garden appears quiet, it's an opportunity to add winter interest with evergreen shrubs, ornamental grasses, and berry-producing plants that support wildlife, including this one native tree if you want to see more cardinals.

Naturally, this birth month moon is often associated with reflection and wisdom, making it ideal for those who have a knack for finding beauty in quieter moments.

Shop Moon Garden Essentials:

Ravens Hollow Garden Moon Garden Collection Seed Packs

Chronicle Books Moon Garden: a Guide to Creating an Evening Oasis

Things2Die4 Rain Chain With Crescent Moon and Sun Discs

If your birth month moon has inspired you to look up more often, there are plenty of simple ways to celebrate it throughout the year; a moon phase calendar or gardening journal can help you keep track of each full moon while recording what's happening in your own backyard. And, of course, consider planting night-scented flowers like moonflower, evening primrose, white nicotiana, and lamb's ear, all of which seem to glow beneath the light of a full moon.

Whether you were born under the Flower Moon, the Harvest Moon, or the Wolf Moon, just remember that each full moon name tells the story of a season. Use it to connect with the natural world around you, and try to take a deep breath on the night of the full moon, get yourself outside or to a window, and gaze at it for a while.

You may find you feel differently about it now you know it's yours.

How two ingredients can elevate a recipe to such heights, I don’t know, but rose salt is simply magical and it's so easy to make from your garden-grown blooms. While rose salt pairs so well with chocolate bakes such as brownies and cookies, a scant sprinkle over a stack of pancakes is similarly game-changing. Try a pinch on a bowl of strawberries or a watermelon slice, too. And don’t stop at sweet dishes if you make rose salt, because a scattering over roast vegetables just before serving takes you straight into Thomas Keller territory.

But the best thing? If you’ve got roses growing in your garden and salt in a kitchen cabinet, you already have all you need to make this flavorful condiment and create some culinary alchemy. Roses are one of the best edible flowers to grow in your backyard as they don't just look pretty but bring noticeable taste and a subtle yet appetising fragrance to recipes.

Here’s exactly what to do for great results.

How to Make Rose Salt1. Pick the Right Rose

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you're wondering can you eat rose petals, rest assured. The petals of all true roses are edible, but it’s important to ensure they’re not contaminated with chemicals. The best way to be sure they’re untainted is to pick roses from your own garden that you know to be free of pesticides. Avoid any plants growing near a road or a treated wooden fence.

Unless marked as organically grown, any recently purchased rose bushes should be left well alone, too, as it takes around 6 months for chemical sprays and fertilizers to fade. Never eat petals from shop- or florist-bought cut roses as these are highly likely to contain chemicals.

As a general rule, strongly-scented roses have petals with the most flavor.

2. Harvest Some Petals

(Image credit: Getty Images)

For plenty of flavor, harvest newly-opened blooms early in the morning. Separate the petals from the central base, and discard the inner workings. Remove the heel – the pale, whiter base of each petal – as this tastes incredibly bitter. Submerge the petals in a bowl of cold water to remove any dirt or debris then pat dry with a paper towel. You will need ½ cup of fresh rose petals.

3. Blend the Petals With Salt

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Put the rose petals in a food processor or blender along with ¾ cup of coarse or flaky sea or rock salt. Pulse until the petals are finely chopped and the salt takes on the tone of the roses.

4. Dry and Store

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Spread the salt mix on a parchment-lined baking sheet. It’s important that the layer is fine, so use two sheets if necessary. Place in an oven on a very low heat (120°F), stirring every half an hour, for around two hours or until the petals have darkened and the salt is fully dry. Leave to cool completely then store in an airtight jar.

How to Use Rose Salt

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The exact taste of your rose salt will depend on your rose variety, as some petals are far more potent in both flavor and fragrance than others. To enjoy the fullest flavor, scatter rose salt over a dish at the end of the cooking or baking process. If you’re using rose salt as the final flourish to your favorite brownie recipe, sprinkle it on the second you remove the tray from the oven so the residual heat helps the crystals stick to the crust. For a slightly more subtle finish, remove the tray from the oven 10 minutes early and sprinkle the salt on before returning to the oven to finish baking.

As well as using rose salt on savoury dishes – and it adds an extra depth of flavor to pretty much any dish but especially vegetable-based recipes – use this fragrant condiment to edge glass rims when making margaritas and dirty martinis.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Flavorful Roses

A rose’s taste mirrors its fragrance in terms of its scent profile but also its strength. So, choose a rose with a fragrance you adore and you’re likely to appreciate its flavor, too. As a general rule, pink, white and yellow roses have the best flavor, while darker reds can be bitter.

Fully floral

Gertrude Jekyll English Shrub Rose

With an intense, quintessential rose scent and flavor, Gertrude Jekyll boasts plenty of petals to play with.

Fruity flavor

Boscobel English Shrub Rose

For a fruitier, nuttier flavour, Boscobel pairs well with baked dishes because of its delicious pear-almond notes.

Fresh and bright

Charles Darwin English Shrub Rose

Charles Darwin has a fresher flavor that sits between a soft and citrussy lemon and warming herbal tea.

In one of his famous poems, Robert Frost wrote: “Good fences make good neighbors.” Does this apply to hedges as well? It might, if the hedge is on your property line.

Hedges are eco-friendly alternatives to fences and walls. They can provide hiding and nesting places for local wildlife, while also marking the property line.

But planting a hedge on the edge of your property is shadowed by legal concerns. Your best bet is to know the law before you begin then act carefully to make sure the hedge stays on your side of the fence.

I cover more questions like this in my Gardening Lawyer series, drawing on my experience as both a gardener and former attorney.

Benefits of Hedges

(Image credit: Ben Bryant/Getty Images)

Who wouldn’t prefer a natural, lovely boundary of shrubs on the property line instead of a wall or fence? A hedge offers privacy, environmental benefits, and structural protection, but it’s green and growing. The best hedge plants have foliage dense enough to create a privacy screen, blocking your backyard from the views of curious neighbors and muffling traffic noises.

And hedges are lovely, with ample aesthetic appeal. The greenery - sometimes with seasonal colors, flowers or fruit - softens your property line but also serves as a wind block. It can also act as a sun buffer, shading backyard areas in summer while also limiting chilly winter drafts.

Finally, hedges can stabilize the soil and also provide wildlife habitat. Hedge plants with deep root systems prevent soil erosion, while the dense foliage offers nesting sites, safe areas for birds and mammals, and food sources for birds and pollinators.

Property Line Perils

(Image credit: Grace Cary / Getty Images)

Planting near your home is easy. You don’t need to worry that your neighbors won’t be happy. It’s your land and you can plant whatever you want. But when you plant anything near the property line, your neighbor might be involved. This includes property line hedging.

It’s easy to understand why you should hesitate to plant an oak sapling near the property line. That tree is going to grow tall and wide, and its branches (and maybe even the trunk) will expand into the neighbor’s backyard…and they may not like it. Hedge shrubs may be trimmed neatly, but a property line hedge raises the same issues as border line oaks. Hedges are shrubs, and shrubs can grow even faster than trees.

Laws About Property Lines and Plants

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Every state has their own laws regulating plants on property lines, and some cities and even housing communities have rules too. The general law in most states allows a neighbor to cut down any part of a tree or shrub planted by a neighbor on your property line that extends into your own property. They don’t even need to ask permission.

But that’s not all. Many communities limit the height of any tree or shrub planted on a property line. Some cities and HOAs limit the species of trees and shrubs you can plant. Others won’t allow trees that block views or shade neighboring backyards.

Steps to Take Before Planting a Property Line Hedge

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You can prevent problems with your neighbors over your property line hedge by acting carefully. These are the seven steps you should follow before planting your hedge.

1. Learn all of the laws relevant to planting shrubs on the property line. Check for state laws, municipal regulations, and HOA or bylaw requirements - if you live in a housing community with an HOA or a housing development where bylaws apply. Find out if species or mature heights are regulated and whether there are any setback requirements. While you are researching, see if there are laws prohibiting planting that blocks a neighbor’s view or shades a neighbor’s backyard.
2. If you are still unclear on the law, consult with an attorney.
3. Develop a plan for your hedge. Select the type of shrub - taking into account your hardiness zone and the sun exposure of the area. Note the mature height and width of the species of shrubs you have selected. If you have any questions, ask a plant expert or an arborist to be sure the species is appropriate for the location.
4. Review city records that show the location of the property line between you and the neighbor.
5. Map out where you will plant your hedge. Set plants up to 3 feet (1m) back from the property line so branches do not cross into your neighbor's yard when fully grown. Add even more access space behind the hedge so that you can maintain the hedge without walking on your neighbor’s property.
6. Talk with your neighbors. Tell them what shrubs you want to plant and their mature size. Show them your hedge map. Walk the property line with them to make sure that your understanding about its location is the same as theirs. Listen to their concerns and address them if you can.

More from the Gardening Lawyer

• The "Spite Fence" Rule Every Homeowner Should Know
• If Your Tree Falls Into a Neighbor’s Yard, Who Pays for the Damage?
• Can You Take Garden Plants With You When You Move House?
• Is Your Neighbor's Tree Blocking the Sunlight in Your Yard? Here’s What You Can (and Can’t) Do About It
• Is It OK to Take Plant Cuttings From Garden Centers?

Spanning the Mamquam Blind Channel, a newly opened $20-million crossing connects downtown Squamish with SEAandSKY, the 53-acre waterfront community being developed by Bosa Properties and Kingswood Properties.

Aspect Structural Engineers led the engineering on this project. They brought Rafael Santa Ana Architecture Workshop (RSAAW) on to help transform a complex piece of infrastructure into something more than a route from one side of the channel to the other.

“We wanted the bridge to be a destination rather than a utilitarian instrument of circulation for the urban landscape that will be Squamish and the SEAandSKY community,” says Rafael Santa Ana, principal of RSAAW.

The result is an operable double-leaf drawbridge, believed to be the first operable pedestrian drawbridge in British Columbia. Its engineering allows pedestrians and cyclists to cross the channel while preserving marine access to the active marina below. Its architecture gives people a reason to stop once they get there.

Santa Ana says bridge design is normally “110 per cent engineering”, and this one was no exception. The structural and mechanical requirements largely determined what the bridge had to do. RSAAW’s role was to shape how it would look, feel and be experienced.

The bridge changes elevation and geometry to create viewing platforms oriented toward Squamish’s dramatic mountain landscape. Benches invite people to pause rather than simply pass through, while the weathering steel structure references both the railway history of the region and the vertical rhythm of the surrounding forest.

“We knew that we had the opportunity to create platforms to see the Chief and the landscape of Squamish,” says Santa Ana.

The bridge’s mechanical requirements became part of its architectural expression rather than something to disguise. Pistons lift the central sections, while gates temporarily stop pedestrians as the bridge opens for vessels.

“It’s a bit like waiting for the train to go by, and you’ll just be able to sit on the edge of the benches or really take in the views,” says Santa Ana.

Lighting was also designed around the natural setting. Santa Ana says the intention was “to keep the light off the water at all times” to avoid disorienting marine life.

Public art by Squamish Nation artist Calvin Charlie-Dawson is integrated into the concrete pile caps, reflecting Coast Salish design traditions and the cultural history of the Mamquam Blind Channel.

Six years in the making

For RSAAW, the bridge has been a long project.

“It’s been a project that has been around our office for six years or more,” says Santa Ana. Design work began in 2019, before the pandemic.

COVID complicated co-ordination between architects, engineers, municipal authorities and provincial and federal agencies. Marine construction brought another layer of difficulty, with Fisheries and Oceans Canada imposing restricted activity windows to protect species and habitat.

Wildlife itself occasionally had other ideas. Santa Ana recalls curious seals interfering with piling work and repeatedly returning to the construction area.

The bridge was largely pre-assembled off-site, then disassembled, transported to the waterfront and craned into position.

Despite the complications, he credits Bosa and Kingswood with maintaining their commitment to an increasingly ambitious piece of public infrastructure.

“They never hesitated on delivering the project that they said that they would,” he says.

Connecting a growing Squamish

The bridge was approved by Squamish Council in 2017 as part of the SEAandSKY masterplan. Once open, it will be owned and operated by the District of Squamish as part of its active transportation network.

SEAandSKY is already home to more than 900 residents and is ultimately planned to provide more than 1,500 homes, alongside parks, retail, public spaces, a waterfront village plaza and marina.

For the wider community, however, the significance is the connection. The bridge effectively extends downtown across the Mamquam Blind Channel, providing a direct walking and cycling route to SEAandSKY and Miyíw̓ts Park while improving connections for surrounding areas.

“SEAandSKY began with a vision to transform a former industrial waterfront into a vibrant neighbourhood connected to Downtown Squamish. This pedestrian bridge has always been central to that vision, and seeing it come to life after so many years of planning, collaboration and hard work is a proud moment for everyone involved,” says Bosa Properties CEO Colin Bosa.

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Toilet paper – we all use it. But our daily bathroom visits result in a million little cardboard rolls that either end up in the recycling bin or the trash. What if there were ways to reuse toilet paper rolls in the garden that benefited our plants and kept this unavoidable waste from piling up in a landfill somewhere?

There actually are several clever ways to use toilet paper rolls in the garden. I’ll share how you can turn trash into garden treasure that solves a handful of common issues. From pests to pollinators to seed starting and composting, toilet paper rolls have varied applications in the home landscape.

Here are the best ways to use old toilet paper rolls to grow a better garden.

1. Stop Hungry Pests

(Image credit: CasarsaGuru / Getty Images)

One of the best uses for toilet paper rolls in the garden is to protect plants from pests. Seedlings are especially vulnerable to pests like cutworms and slugs, which can suddenly chomp through a stem overnight. Use a toilet paper roll like a collar around your young plants to protect their stems from hungry pests.

Squash vine borers are another pesky insect that can quickly kill your squash plants. Cut lengthwise down a toilet paper roll and wrap it around the stem of your squash plants to protect it from these burrowing pests. Cover the toilet paper roll in tin foil and push it down into the soil a bit at the base of the stem.

You can also create an easy earwig trap by filling a toilet paper roll with a damp paper towel. Place the toilet paper roll trap on its side next to the plants affected by earwigs, then the next day check to see how many pests you trapped. Place them in a bucket of soapy water to kill them.

2. Start Seedlings

(Image credit: T-sableaux / Getty Images)

This is a popular gardening hack that seems to take over the internet every spring, but it keeps resurfacing for good reason. Most of us have tons of toilet paper rolls lying around and want to save money when starting seeds in the spring. So using toilet paper rolls as seed starting pots seems like the perfect solution.

Although most toilet paper rolls are made from biodegradable cardboard, some are reinforced with glue that makes them break down slowly. If you plant them directly into the garden once your seedlings are big enough to transplant, it can cause circling roots that never reach the native soil.

To solve this issue, cut slits into the sides of your toilet paper rolls before planting, then simply fill the rolls with a high-quality seed starting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro, plant your seeds, and grow! When it’s time to move plants outdoors, just peel back the rolls along the slits.

3. Turn Them Into a Bee Hotel

(Image credit: Marcel Krauss / Getty Images)

You can turn your toilet paper rolls into a pollinator-friendly hangout spot. To create a bee hotel, like this one from Amazon, where these beneficial insects can rest and nest, gather some hollow stems and sticks – bamboo is perfect for this purpose – and fill a toilet paper roll with them. Fill several toilet paper rolls and tie them together with twine to create a bigger bee hotel.

You can decorate the outside of the toilet paper rolls with paint or colorful tape that doubles as reinforcement in case the toilet rolls start to break down in the elements. Then place your mini bee hotels around your garden. You can put them near pollinators’ favorite plants or hang them in a tree where bees can stop and chill from the summer heat.

4. Add Them to the Compost Bin

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As I mentioned above, toilet paper rolls are typically made of cardboard or paper that breaks down easily. That means they’re a prime brown material for the compost pile or tumbler – this compost tumbler from Home Depot is a good choice for small backyards.

To help speed up decomposition, cut up the toilet paper rolls into smaller pieces before putting them into your compost bin or pile. But like any other uncolored paper product, toilet paper rolls are perfect for composting.

My husband has worked as a professional gardener for years, and during that time he's tried a lot of tools. Like, a lot of tools.

From expensive gear to the latest must-have gadgets, he's seen plenty of products promise to make gardening easier. But after countless hours spent maintaining gardens of all shapes and sizes, he's learned that the tools he relies on most? Well, they aren't necessarily the flashiest ones.

Case in point? When I asked him which tools every home gardener should own, he didn't list off loads of specialist equipment; instead, he immediately picked out three simple tools that earn a place in his van every single day.

The Tools A Pro Gardener Never Starts a Job Without

Now, his reasoning for picking out these tools makes a lot of sense, because he's made a point of picking the ones that aren't just good at one job; instead, they're versatile enough to tackle multiple tasks, durable enough to withstand years of regular use, and reliable enough that you don't have to think twice about reaching for them.

Whether he's pruning overgrown shrubs, digging out stubborn weeds, or tidying up flower beds, my pro gardener husband says that these are the tools that consistently save him time. So much so that, whenever he arrives at a new job, these are the first three tools he unloads from the van because he knows they'll be useful, no matter what's on the day's to-do list.

If you already have these in your gardening kit, you're well on your way. If you don't, they're where he'd suggest starting...

1. A Hori Hori Knife

(Image credit: Ashley-Belle Burns / Getty Images)

“If I could only take one hand tool with me, it’d probably be my hori hori knife.”

Yes, according to my husband, a hori hori knife is one of the most versatile gardening tools you can own. While it looks like a large knife, it doubles as a trowel, making it ideal for digging, planting, dividing perennials, and cutting through roots.

According to my husband, it's also the best tool for removing stubborn weeds because the sturdy blade lets you get underneath deep taproots without fighting with the soil. “I probably use it more than anything else I own,” he says. “Whether I’m planting, digging out weeds, or working in compacted ground, it’s almost always in my hand.”

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2. Felco No. 2 Pruners

(Image credit: Melanie Griffiths)

Every professional gardener needs a reliable pair of pruners, and my husband's choice is the Felco No. 2. “They’re built to last,” he says. “Mine are always on my tool belt because I’m constantly reaching for them.”

Unlike cheaper pruners that often end up in the trash once they wear out, Felco’s tools are designed so that many individual parts can be replaced if they become damaged or worn. That means a quality pair can last for many years with proper care.

It makes sense, then, that, whether he’s pruning shrubs, deadheading flowers, trimming small branches, or tidying up plants, these are the pruners he trusts every day.

3. A Retractable Leaf Rake

(Image credit: BOKEH STOCK / Shutterstock)

Most people think of a leaf rake as one of those tools you only use in the fall, but my husband says a retractable model earns its place year-round.

Oh sure, it’s excellent for clearing leaves and lawn debris, but that’s only part of its job; my husband also uses it as a mini scarifier to loosen small patches of moss in the lawn, and the adjustable width makes it much easier to work in flower beds and borders. By narrowing the head, he can reach between plants to level the soil and pull out fallen leaves or other debris without damaging surrounding plants.

“The adjustable width is what makes it so useful,” he says. “You can open it up for larger areas or narrow it down when you’re working in tighter spaces.”

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And there we have it; the must-have tools that every gardener needs in their arsenal. Still, if you're looking to build out your gardening kit even further, my husband says these are the next investments he'd make:

• A quality digging fork and spade for heavier landscaping work.
• A battery-powered STIHL KombiSystem, which lets you swap between multiple attachments using one power head.
• A dependable lawn mower if you're maintaining larger lawns and want professional-quality results.

Personally, I would consider splashing out on something like this nifty little All-In-One Raised 2x2 Garden Bundle, too, especially if you want to take a lot of the legwork out of watering.

Still, it makes sense to follow my husband's advice and to start with the three everyday essentials first as, in his experience, buying fewer (but better-quality) tools usually pays off in the long run. And, as these are the three he reaches for time and again, they make a pretty good starting point for building your own gardening arsenal.

A Christmas cactus spends most of the year looking like it needs nothing at all, which is roughly true from March through August. September changes that. Flower buds form in response to a fairly narrow set of fall conditions, and once October is well underway, the window for supplying them has mostly closed.

Standard Christmas cactus care carries a plant through summer just fine, but fall asks for adjustments that have less to do with keeping it alive and everything to do with getting it to flower. Six of them matter in September. Most take a couple of minutes; one has to be kept up for six straight weeks.

1. Track Nighttime Temperatures Before Moving It Inside

(Image credit: NoDerog / Getty Images)

Cool nights do real work here. Flower initiation happens under any day length once temperatures settle between 50 and 59 degrees Fahrenheit (10-15C), so a plant that summered on a shaded porch may already be getting a head start by late September in much of the country. Hauling it into a warm living room on the first chilly evening throws that away.

The hard limit is frost. These are tropical epiphytes from Brazilian rainforest, with no meaningful cold tolerance. Even a light freeze damages the stems outright. Watch the forecast rather than the calendar. Bringing the pot in once nights start falling below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10C) is the common advice. An indoor thermometer with min/max recall from Amazon settles the question, since a windowsill can run several degrees cooler overnight than the room it sits in.

2. Look It Over for Pests Before It Crosses the Threshold

(Image credit: Rojer)

Anything that moves indoors in September brings along whatever it picked up outside. Mealybugs (Planococcus citri and related species) are the usual culprit, showing up as small cottony patches tucked into the joints between segments. Soft brown scale (Coccus hesperidum) turns up as well. Sap loss during bud initiation shows up later as fewer flowers, so this counts as a bloom task rather than simple housekeeping.

Check the underside of every segment and the base of the stems, where things hide. Light infestations of Christmas cactus pests come off with a cotton swab dipped in diluted rubbing alcohol, roughly one part 70 percent alcohol to three parts water, since undiluted alcohol can burn the tissue. For anything more widespread, a ready-to-use insecticidal soap spray from Amazon knocks back mealybugs and scale. Coverage decides the outcome. Anything the spray misses survives, so plan a second pass a week or two later. Doing all of it outside keeps one infested pot from becoming five.

3. Stop the Fertilizer

(Image credit: Herman Vlad / Getty Images)

Christmas cactus feeding should be tapering off by now. September is a reasonable place to stop it entirely. Nitrogen pushes segment growth, and a plant with plenty available tends to keep making new segments instead of buds. The standard recommendation is to hold off through late summer and fall, then pick feeding back up when new growth appears in late winter or early spring.

There is a magnesium angle here too. Holiday cacti pull more magnesium than most houseplants, and a monthly teaspoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water (5ml per 3.8L) covers that during the growing season. It should never go down in the same week as regular fertilizer. That one comes off the schedule now as well. Stopping the feed is a lever, not neglect.

4. Give It 13 to 14 Hours of Real Darkness

(Image credit: Paolo Gagliardi / Getty Images)

Christmas cactus light exposure is what decides things. Long, uninterrupted nights trigger bud set. Mid-September is where the treatment starts. Thirteen to fourteen hours of continuous darkness each day, held for at least six weeks, is what a full flush takes. Buds usually become visible three to four weeks in.

Continuous is the operative word. As little as two hours of interrupted light will stop the process, and that includes a hallway bulb or headlights sweeping across a window. The dark period is a switch, not a dial. A spare closet works fine, or a cardboard box tipped over the pot at six in the evening and lifted around eight the next morning. Return it to bright light during the day, since photosynthesis still has to happen.

Timing shifts by species, too. Most plants sold as Christmas cactus are Schlumbergera truncata, which flowers around a month earlier than the true Schlumbergera x buckleyi. Once buds appear, day length stops mattering and the pot can go back to a normal spot.

5. Water Less Now, Then More Once Buds Set

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Christmas cactus watering gets dialed back in fall without going anywhere near drought. Let the top third of the mix dry before watering again and drop the fixed schedule, because potting mix in a cool room dries far slower than it did in August. Soggy mix during long nights is the quickest route to root rot on a plant that evolved sitting in tree debris.

Then it flips. Buds that have set need the mix kept evenly moist, since letting it dry at that stage causes bud drop, and dropped buds do not come back. That reversal catches people out every year. If finger-testing a dense pot feels unreliable, a 4-in-1 soil moisture meter from Amazon reads moisture down at root level. Water should never be left standing in the saucer underneath.

6. Skip the Repotting

(Image credit: mamadela / Getty Images)

September is a poor month to repot a Christmas cactus, though fall tidying instincts run the other way. Christmas cactus flowers best kept somewhat pot-bound. A repot is needed only about once every three years anyway. Disturbing roots now interrupts the whole process at precisely the wrong moment.

If a plant truly needs more room, with roots pushing out the drainage holes or mix broken down to dust, wait until spring and repot after flowering. Pruning waits too. Once buds form, keep the pot away from heat vents and drafty doorways, since a sudden temperature swing will drop buds about as readily as dry mix does.

There is nothing complicated in any of it, though the timing runs tighter than most houseplant care gets. Start the long nights in mid-September and a Christmas cactus should be showing color right about the time the decorations come out of the attic.

So many of our favorite backyard blooms that we plant afresh every year have long-lived cousins that survive the winter and return, year after year, with lots more blooms for near-zero effort. If you’re wanting to cut down on the time and cost it takes to keep your garden looking good, swap those flower-once-and-die annuals for long-lived perennial plants that will bring abundant flowers for years to come.

Whether you like to grow lush borders or raise flowers for cutting, there are plenty of perennial versions of popular annual plants to choose from. From sweet peas and sunflowers to candytuft and coreopsis, foxgloves and poppies to baby’s breath and cosmos, there’s a perennial option that brings plenty of blooms for a lot less effort – and we all love flowering plants that practically grow themselves. For a lovely but low-maintenance garden, it's a no-brainer.

Which of these annual plants do you currently grow in your garden, that you could swap out for a perennial version that will flower for years to come?

1. Sweet Pea

Everlasting Pea Seeds, Mixed

If you're wondering what to grow in a low-maintenance garden, start your planting list with a perennial sweet pea. The annual sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) is fabulous, granted, but the everlasting sweet pea (Lathyrus latifolius) has lots to offer, too. Pest-resilient and happy to grow in poor soil, it flowers from mid-summer to the first hard frost and returns year after year in zones 5-9.

The only trade-off you’ll have to make is scent, as perennial sweet peas don’t have the wonderful fragrance of annual sweet peas. Everlasting sweet pea varieties range from white to a warm palette of pinks, magenta and red, and for the prettiest result, grow a mix for a standout color show all summer long.

2. Sunflower

3 Maximilian Sunflower Bareroots

Yes, it’s fun to plant sunflower seeds each spring and watch the plants grow sky-high – but it’s also lovely to sit back on the patio and see your perennial Helianthus pop up without any assistance from you! Most sunflowers are annuals (Helianthus annus), completing their life cycle in one season, but there are also a few perennial sunflower varieties that return year in, year out.

If you love the height of annual sunflowers and have the space, then Helianthus maximiliani (Maximilian sunflower) is an excellent choice, growing 6-8 feet tall stems smothered in yellow flowers from midsummer to frost in zones 3-9. Explore the wonderful world of perennial Helianthus salicifolius, too, which brings the same sunny vibes on shorter stems. Autumn Gold Narrow-Leaved Sunflower, available from Plant Addicts, is a favorite, growing just 1-2 feet high with a similarly long blooming season in zones 5-10.

3. Poppy

Eden Brothers 2 Papaver Orientale 'Forncett Summer' Bareroots

There are so many beautiful annual poppy varieties that pop up and flower for a few weeks then die, from corn poppies (Papaver rhoeas) to opium poppies (Papaver somniferum). Wonderful as their paper-thin petals are, the flowers can be fragile and fleeting. The perennial oriental poppy Papaver orientale, however, has a lot more punch in the flower power arena.

Because they’re fuelled by a far bigger perennial root system than their annual cousins, oriental poppies are bigger plants with bigger flowers. Papaver orientale flowers last far longer in a vase, too, produce robust seedpods that dry well, and their plump, fuzzy buds are adorable. There are all sorts of varieties to choose from, and Eden Brothers has a lovely oriental poppy selection to begin a journey into this world of flouncy petals and six-inch crepe-paper blooms.

(Image credit: Getty Images)4. Cosmos

2 Chocolate Cosmos Roots

Love the carefree flowers of cosmos? If you’re already growing annual Cosmos bipinnatus you’ll know just how many blooms a single plant can put out over the summer months. And there’s a perennial cosmos that's just as enthusiastic.

Cosmos atrosanguineus – the chocolate cosmos – is a dark, sensuous beauty that blooms all summer with rich, deep red petals that last well in a vase as well as borders. It’s hardy in zones 9-11 but as it grows to 30 inches high and is heat- and drought-tolerant, this perennial cosmos thrives in a container so you can easily move it to overwinter in a sheltered spot in cooler zones. As you'll discover, growing chocolate cosmos in a pot is a great move as you can easily place the blooms on a table or plant stand to enjoy their remarkable chocolate fragrance.

(Image credit: Getty Images)5. Foxgloves

Digitalis Grandiflora Yellow Foxglove

The cottage-garden appeal of foxgloves is joyful; the hassle of sowing seed one year and having to wait till the following summer for a fleeting show of these sensational spires is not. The foxglove we most often grow in our gardens is Digitalis purpurea, a biennial that grows leaves in its first year, then flower spikes in its second year before dying. There are perennial foxgloves, however, that return year after year.

Digitalis grandiflora, the large yellow foxglove, lives for around five years and flowers from June to August in zones 3-8. Digitalis parviflora (chocolate foxglove) is a slightly shorter-lived perennial but an incredibly striking plant to add to a modern border or gravel garden. With tightly-packed flower spikes in an unusual rusty brown tone that looks fabulous paired with corten steel, chocolate foxglove seeds are available from Walmart and are suitable for zones 4-9.

6. Black-Eyed Susan

American Gold Rush Black-Eyed Susan

Why grow short-lived annual or biennial Rudbeckia hirta when you can grow long-lived perennial Rudbeckia fulgida and enjoy a reliable display of golden black-eyed Susan flowers for years to come?

There are plenty of varieties to choose from ranging from short-stemmed cultivars perfect for a pot to tall back-of-the-border plants. Perhaps the best of all is Rudbeckia fulgida ‘American Gold Rush’, named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2023 and reliably growing well-behaved mounds smothered with yellow daisies in zones 3-8. The blooms are beloved by pollinators and, as this variety has been bred to be exceptionally disease-resistant, keep on coming to the first frost.

7. Candytuft

Perennial Candytuft Snow Flurries Seeds

You’re no doubt familiar with the annual Iberis umbellata, sown every spring to fill fronts of borders with white, pink or purple flowers through summer – but do you know the perennial candytuft, Iberis sempervirens? It does a similar job of bringing a carpet of flowers – though earlier, typically from March to June, and with white blooms – but also boasts a dense, evergreen mat of needle-like leaves thats act as year-round ground cover.

Because it has woody stems, this is a tough, reliable perennial in zones 3-8, heat- and drought-tolerant once established, and also does well cascading over the front of walls and raised beds.

(Image credit: Getty Images)8. Coreopsis

Lance-Leaf Coreopsis Sunburst Seeds

If you’re a fan of annual Coreopsis tinctoria and its pretty daisy-like flowers with yellow petals and darker centers, take a look at Coreopsis lanceolata. This perennial tickseed is native to North America with long-lasting spring blooms in zones 4-9, and lance-leaf coreopsis seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

Several cultivars have been bred from the wildflower for more dramatic, long-lasting blooms with the same tough nature and appreciation for poor soil, such as Coreopsis lanceolata ‘Sunburst’. Exceptionally heat- and drought-tolerant, it's as happy in a container as it is in the ground, and the flowers are easily dried, too.

9. Baby’s Breath

Festival Star Baby's Breath

Annual Gypsophila elegans is such a useful plant in any garden, with clouds of tiny white flowers and gray-green leaves on airy stems. It only lasts a summer, though, so if you want to keep its elegant effervescence in borders, you need to replant every spring. There is, however, a perennial baby’s breath that reliably returns year after year, bringing that wonderful froth of petite blooms for far less effort.

There are various Gypsophila paniculata varieties but one of the most useful is Festival Star. It has fairly short stems, only reaching 18 inches, but they're smothered with tiny white flowers. Blooming from late spring, this sea of bijou blooms acts as the most fabulous coverage for dying bulb foliage, and it continues flowering into early fall in zones 3-9. Festival Star baby's breath has a long tap root so is drought-tolerant, you don’t need to deadhead it, and it spreads to two feet so one plant makes quite an impact.

10. Marigold

Tagetes Lemmonii Shrub Marigold 50 Seeds

If you grow vegetables, you likely grow marigolds to attract beneficial pollinators and act as a sacrificial trap crop to lure aphids away from your precious veggie plants. While the annual French marigold (Tagetes patula) is easy enough to raise from seed every spring, the perennial Tagetes lemmonii works in a different way to benefit your veg patch, for far less effort.

Thanks to a concentration of oils in the foliage which emit a citrussy mint smell, Tagetes lemmonii deters pests and can mask the alluring fragrance of nearby crops. This Mexican bush or mountain marigold is hardy in zones 8-10 but many gardeners outside these zones grow it in pots so it's easilty moved to overwinter in a sheltered spot. As this shrub can grow 3-6 feet tall, growing it in a container also helps to keep the plant small, and the stems are easily pruned into a pleasingly bushy, rounded shape.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A summer spent outdoors on a shaded patio or porch can be amazing for certain houseplants, most of which are tropical plants that thrive in heat and humidity. Soaking up the fresh air, natural moisture, warm breezes, and filtered sunlight can often trigger lush new growth. But in September, that outdoor haven can become a bit more risky. These tropical species like warm, consistent conditions, and sudden shifts in temperature can cause issues long before fall frost arrives.

Leaving these sensitive houseplants outside during sudden night-temperature dips can trigger rapid leaf drop, root rot, and severe cold shock. So this month is a time to transition key summering houseplants indoors to preserve all the vibrant momentum your plants gained over the summer. Sensible transitions now can protect against undue plant stress. This is also a good chance to get on top of any outdoor pests that might be looking to hitchhike indoors.

If you’re not careful, you could be bringing spider mites, scale, and mealybugs directly into your indoor spaces. By recognizing which tender species require a timely shift indoors, and taking a few quick steps to clean foliage and adjust soil moisture, you’ll protect your houseplant family and ensure they flourish through winter. Here are the key houseplants you need to move indoors now, and the easy ways to keep them clean and safe at the end of the summer holidays.

When the Houseplant Holiday is Over

There isn’t a single, universal date for bringing houseplants indoors for the winter. When you bring them in depends on your growing zone, local weather, exposure, and the types of plants you have. One of the best ways to determine when to make the transition is to keep an eye on nighttime temperatures. Many of your tropical houseplants will start to get uncomfortable when nighttime temps reach 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) consistently. Some are even more sensitive to cold and should be brought in before the nights get this chilly.

The key to a successful fall houseplant migration is tracking nighttime minimums rather than daytime highs. While a sunny September afternoon might feel warm, a sharp drop to 50°F (10°C) at night triggers the plants' roots to enter survival mode. Extremely tender varieties will be susceptible the moment nighttime forecasts consistently touch 55-60°F (13-16°C). Delaying the transition leaves them vulnerable to chill damage, which manifests weeks later as black leaf margins, soft stems, or foliage collapse. If you’re not sure, the highly rated Serundo Digital Thermometer from Amazon can help you determine temperature and humidity levels outside.

(Image credit: Liudmila Chernetska / Getty Images)

Of course, indoor environments can present lower light levels, dry forced-air heating, and reduced airflow. To prevent severe acclimation shock, you need to ease your houseplants inside over a 7-10-day buffer window. For the best houseplant care at the end of summer, start by moving your designated potted travelers to a deeply shaded porch spot for a few days. This will help to get them used to lower light. You can then bring them indoors for the night, while leaving them out during warm days.

Before bringing any container past your threshold, you also need to perform a thorough pest inspection for each plant. Hose down foliage to dislodge hitchhikers, treat the soil with an organic neem drench, and inspect leaf undersides under high magnification so hitchhiking pests don't invade your home. To get a closer look under the leaves, use a loupe or pocket magnifier. The Jarlink 60X Illuminated Loupe Magnifier from Amazon is terrific value and gives crisp detail to flag up microscopic webs and crawlers before bringing pots indoors. Make this move as early in September as you can, focusing on these tender plants first…

1. Fiddle Leaf Fig

(Image credit: Photography By Tonelson / Getty Images)

Fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) is a popular but tricky houseplant. It’s a tropical native and strongly dislikes both cold temperatures and sudden temperature changes. Summer outside can trigger a lot of new growth, but cold nights can lead to leaf drop due to stress. While a summer outdoors often pushes out large, glossy fiddle-shaped leaves, cold September drafts below 55°F (13°C) shock the root system. This stress causes the tree to jettison its lower foliage, leaving you with a sparse, leggy trunk.

This houseplant thrives in constant warmth and high humidity, so its return indoors is a high-stakes task. Move your fig inside early in the month (well before nighttime temperatures are consistently 50°F). Transition it into a spot that receives 6-8 hours of bright, indirect sunlight near an east or south-facing window, with no drafts or vents. Once indoors, give your fig a quarter-turn every few days, so all sides receive balanced light, preventing the trunk from leaning awkwardly toward the window.

Because indoor light is less intense than outdoor sun, soil dries out more slowly. Resist the urge to overwater: wait until the top 2-3 inches (8cm) of potting soil are dry to the touch before watering thoroughly. And remember to clean large leaf surfaces using Southside Neem Oil Houseplant Wipes from Amazon, which combine a layer of pest protection with impressive cleaning and instant sheen.

2. Bird of Paradise

(Image credit: Ольга Симонова / Getty Images)

Birds of paradise (Strelitzia spp.) are gorgeous flowering tropical plants that thrive in warm weather and can really put out a lot of new growth on a summer outdoor holiday. With their massive, banana-like leaves and bold silhouettes, they are built for high heat and brilliant sunlight. The right summer placement outside will allow them to stock up generous energy reserves for those distinctive blooms. But cool nights will slow that growth and stress the new foliage long before the first frost.

Bring your bird of paradise inside before the nights become cooler than 55°F (13°C) and place it in the brightest window you have to make the transition easier. Ideally, this needs to be directly in front of an unshaded south or west-facing window. The broad paddle leaves are likely coated in dust, hard water deposits, and spider mites. So give these leaves a good clean before moving day with a soft cloth and warm water or a diluted neem spray. For an extra treat, add a mild drench of Arber Organic Bio-Protectant Concentrate from Walmart to protect against fungal rots.

3. Rex Begonia

(Image credit: Pakin Songmor / Getty Images)

Begonia rex-cultorum hybrids, also known as Rex begonias, are gorgeous plants known for their striking foliage. Loved for their swirls of metallics, magentas, and rich emeralds, Rex begonias are among the most decorative yet cold-sensitive foliage plants. These pretty leaves are especially susceptible to cold damage, which can cause leaf margins to turn translucent, crisp, or drop off entirely. So bring yours indoors as temperatures start to drop to around 55°F (13°C).

Cool damp weather creates ideal conditions for powdery mildew to take hold on their textured surfaces, which is another great reason to bring these plants indoors. Place them in a spot indoors with bright but indirect light (not your sunniest window which can scorch their rich pigments). Allow the top inch of soil to dry between waterings and check moisture levels if you’re not sure. The Xlux Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is a steal and works across every plant you own (just keep it clean).

4. Calathea

(Image credit: Roman Kochegarov / Getty Images)

Calathea (classified under Goeppertia) is a group of plants prized for their multi-hued and striped leaves. Also known as prayer plants, zebra plants, and peacock plants, these striped beauties have a bit of a reputation as being divas, due to their precise environmental requirements. They require high humidity and steady warmth, and they don’t respond well to environmental changes. They are also vulnerable to nighttime temperatures that dip sharply to 60°F (16°C), which can cause leaf curling, crisp brown tips, and stem collapse.

Transition your calathea back inside over 7-10 days, once nighttime temperatures outside are 55-60°F (13-16°C). Choose a spot indoors that has bright but indirect light, far from drafts, vents or AC units. Tap water containing high chlorine or fluoride levels can cause leaf tips to turn brown, so hydrate with distilled or filtered water. Running a cool-mist humidifier can also ease the transition. For a budget humidity option, the Pure Enrichment MistAire Drop Ultrasonic Cool Mist Humidifier from Target is compact and great for small spaces.

5. Boston Fern

(Image credit: OlgaMiltsova / Getty Images)

Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) is a classic summer porch plant, with dense, frilly fronds. They make awesome summer porch staples, tumbling out of hanging baskets in feathery green cascades. However, their lush growth relies heavily on high summer humidity and steady airflow. As September brings cooler nights below 55°F (13°C), these ferns stop growing and prepare to shed fronds. Bringing them indoors before cool weather sets in will preserve their vibrant color, though you should prepare for some minor leaf shedding as they adapt to drier indoor air.

Bring these ferns inside before the nights are consistently cool. Be sure to check for pests before making the transition. Give the pot a firm shake, then spray with a gentle hose stream to wash away dust, whiteflies, and scale. Trim yellowed or bare fronds back to the crown. Then give yours a spot with bright, indirect light and good humidity: a large bathroom window or near a kitchen sink is ideal. For a light mineral boost that can help them adapt in peace, apply a diluted seaweed tonic such as Bloom City Organic Liquid Seaweed & Kelp Fertilizer from Walmart. A gentle soil soak strengthens delicate fern roots and improves frond retention indoors.

6. Tropical Hibiscus

(Image credit: Rosemary Calvert / Getty Images)

Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) plants thrive outdoors in summer, blooming abundantly and putting out new green growth. With fiery, tropical blooms that draw hummingbirds all summer, it makes a dramatic outdoor patio centerpiece. But while some hibiscus plants are hardy, the tropical hibiscus cannot tolerate cold temperatures. Exposure to night temps below 55°F (13°C) can trigger leaf yellowing and bud drop. Bring your potted hibiscus indoors early in September, while night air is still mild, so it can settle before winter arrives.

Bring it indoors while temperatures are mild, about 60°F (16°C) at night. Your tropical hibiscus will fare best with a spot at your sunniest window. Where indoor light is limited, add an LED grow light for 10-12 hours daily. If you are going to invest in full spectrum lighting, get something that offers at least 35W, like the SANSI 35W Wall Mounted LED Plant Lights from Amazon to supply sun-hungry hibiscus trees with the light intensity they need. These plants can get large in summer, so give it a light trim, but avoid aggressive pruning during this stressful transition.

7. Anthurium

(Image credit: Ludmila Kapustkina / Getty Images)

Anthurium plants (Anthurium spp.), also known as flamingo flowers, are loved for their glossy spathes and long-lasting reds and pinks. As a houseplant, they can bloom all year, and they really appreciate some time outdoors to soak up the warm, humid conditions. Outdoor summering encourages robust root systems and continuous flowering. However, when nighttime temperatures fall to 60°F (16°C), growth halts, leaves turn yellow, and emerging flower buds can abort. So you should bring yours indoors as soon as late-summer weather begins to turn cool.

Clean foliage surfaces with a damp cloth to dislodge hitchhiking scale insects or aphids before moving in. Then place your anthurium wherever it will receive bright, indirect light, such as near an east or curtained west-facing window. Avoid cold drafts and harsh afternoon sun that can scorch those glossy spathes. Allow the top 50% of the potting medium to dry out between waterings. Top-dress with a little epiphytic potting mix such as Miracle-Gro Coarse Potting Mix from Amazon.

Houseplant Cleaning Essentials

(Image credit: Kseniya Ovchinnikova / Getty Images)

Transitioning your tropical houseplants indoors for autumn requires a few targeted plant care products and protective accessories. This collection of essential supplies will help you carry out your September plant move with total confidence, eliminating pests, supporting healthy roots, and keeping foliage lush and vibrant through the winter months ahead.

Flora Microfiber Dusting Gloves for Houseplants

Make dusting and cleaning off sticky houseplant leaves easy with these microfiber gloves.

Bonide Insecticidal Soap Spray

Get rid of pesky pests with a spritz of insecticidal soap. This organic solution solves plant problems indoors and out!

Southside Plants Plant Cleaning Wipes

These easy-to-use wipes keep leaves shining bright with the natural power of neem oil.

Timing is everything when transitioning sensitive tropical plants indoors, but success relies on patience and timing. Always ease your plants inside over several days, so they aren't shocked by sudden shifts in light and humidity. Before moving a single container past your threshold, perform a thorough pest inspection, wash off foliage, and treat the soil to protect your wider houseplant family.

Select indoor locations based on each plant's needs, placing sun-lovers near bright windows and delicate foliage species in humid, shaded spots. Remember, the earlier you begin the transition process, the easier it will be for your plants to settle in and maintain their lush beauty all winter long.

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Fall color is heavily associated with foliage. As the heat of August gives way to crisp September mornings, most gardeners assume the floral season is drawing to a quiet close. And the idea that we can plant bulbs now that can reward us with color before the year is out might seem unbelievable. We’re conditioned to treat our bulbs as a lesson in delayed gratification, tucking sleeping tulips and daffodils into cold earth and waiting 6 long months for a spring payoff.

But some botanical sprinters don’t need to wait nearly that long if pushed into the ground now. Planted in September, these bulbs, corms, and tubers nudge through the mulch while everything around them is winding down. The bulb planting routine is much the same as with other bulbs you might be planting now, but there is no chilling period to get through first. Tucking these unique corms and tubers into warm early September soil yields a stunning reward: brilliant goblets, starry umbels, and jewel-toned petals bursting through the ground in just a few short weeks.

And if the prospect of magical fall blooms wasn’t enough of a treat, these late-season bloomers also provide a vital, nectar-rich lifeline for native pollinators making their final pre-winter rounds. Getting these bulbs in the ground during early September takes advantage of residual late-summer soil warmth, sparking rapid root establishment and triggering instant floral spikes. It is an effortless afternoon project that completely transforms how your yard will look – so let’s get ready for the magic.

Choosing Bulbs for Fall Color

The main rule with these fall bulbs is: get them in the ground fast. Dormancy in this group holds for a narrow window. A few will open flowers inside the bag if they sit on a shelf too long. Unlike spring bulbs that require months of chilling in damp winter earth, autumn specialists are adapted to hot, dry summer dormancies. Drainage matters more than richness. These bulbs aren’t fans of heavy clay. If planted in waterlogged soil, the fleshy corms will rot before they can send up flower scapes.

(Image credit: AegeanBlue / Getty Images)

Select spots with naturally sharp drainage, such as sloped rock gardens, raised beds, or the rain-shadowed foot of a south-facing masonry wall. Working some coarse horticultural grit, perlite, or pumice into native soil instantly improves aeration and root penetration. If you haven’t got a bulb planter, there are a range of types with varying degrees of comfort and control, from standing to squatting! For entry-level ease of use, try the Edward Tools Bulb Planter with Depth Marker, available from Amazon, which is exceptional value and gentle on the wrists.

Planting depth for this group requires strict attention, as standard depth rules often do not apply. While traditional bulbs need to go deep (roughly 3 times their height), surface-blooming tubers like Cyclamen hederifolium sit barely covered under an inch of topsoil, while neck-emerging species like Lycoris require their tips exposed to air and sun. So check the instructions on the packet when planting. Don’t forget to grab your gloves before planting, as a few of these bulbs are poisonous. Beyond that, the time is right for bringing on some very special fall color…

1. Colchicum

(Image credit: Svetlana Khoroshilova / Getty Images)

Catalogs routinely sell this as autumn crocus. Colchicum (C. autumnale) sits in a different family, and the tell is 6 stamens where a true crocus carries 3. Hopefully what lands in your mailbox is a fat corm. These corms are famously eager. In fact, if left sitting in a paper shipping bag on a kitchen counter in September, they will push out leafless lilac goblets right on the shelf. To get the best floral show, set them into rich, well-draining garden soil the very day they arrive in the mail.

Set it 3-4 inches (8-10cm) deep in rich ground the day it arrives. If the soil has gone hard and you’re after a long-handled bulb planter, I recommend the Colwelt Long Handled Bulb Planter Tool from Amazon. Planted in early September, these bulbs bloom within 2-4 weeks. Tucking them behind hostas, daylilies, or hardy geraniums will mask the spring foliage without shading the fall flower show. Plant under creeping thyme or low-growing stonecrop to keep the blossoms from flopping in rainstorms. Buy Daylily Nursery Colchicum Bulbs from Walmart.

2. Saffron Crocus

(Image credit: Sevim Fidan / Getty Images)

Cooks have a reason to grow this one. Saffron crocus (C. sativus) is a genuine crocus. Each lilac flower carries 3 red stigmas. Those dry down into the spice, and it takes around 150 flowers to make a single gram. Combining culinary luxury with ornamental beauty, this bloomer is a treasure for the autumn garden. Drainage is non-negotiable. If planted in heavy, waterlogged clay, the corms will succumb to fungal soft rot. If your native soil is heavy, grow them in terracotta pots filled with a 50/50 mix of potting soil and coarse horticultural sand.

Plant corms 3-4 inches (8-10cm) deep and 4 inches (10cm) apart in the sunniest, driest gravel border or patio container you have. By mid-to-late October, delicate violet goblets will push up through grass-like foliage, each displaying the crimson stigmas that can be hand-harvested with tweezers for culinary use. As a sterile hybrid, the plant will not self-seed. However, a healthy clump will multiply steadily via corm offsets over 2-3 years, yielding a lovely spice harvest every autumn. You can buy Marde Ross & Company Saffron Crocus Bulbs from Amazon.

3. Autumn Daffodil

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For anyone who longs for the cheerful, egg-yolk yellow of spring in the middle of autumn, Sternbergia lutea is a joy. Goblet-shaped flowers emerge on 6-inch (15cm) stems, in a yellow lifted straight off a daffodil. This earns it the name of autumn daffodil, although technically it isn’t. The flowers arrive alongside crisp, dark green strap-like foliage which remains vibrant through winter, providing texture long after frost has cleared other perennials.

Native to sun-baked Mediterranean hillsides, this bulb requires a gritty planting site that bakes in summer heat. Bury bulbs 4-5 inches (10-13cm) deep at the base of a south-facing brick or stone wall, where the masonry can absorb and radiate heat back into the soil. Zones 7-9 are best, and zone 6 can work against a warm wall under a mulch of dry, pine needles. Avoid disturbing or dividing established clumps, as it detests root disruption and can take a year or two to recover if moved. You can buy Autumn Daffodil Bulbs from reputable fall bulb suppliers Brent & Becky’s Bulbs.

4. Hardy Cyclamen

(Image credit: Alexandra Glen / Alamy)

Dry shade under a mature tree might defeat a lot of bulbs. Hardy cyclamen (C. hederifolium) thrives in it. The corky, saucer-like tubers push up exquisite pink or white blossoms through to November. As the flowers fade, intricate silver-marbled foliage unfurls, forming a weed-suppressing groundcover that stays pristine through winter. However, while established plants bloom immediately, fresh tubers might put on a modest leaf display this fall and launch their full floral magic next year. You can currently buy Hardy Cyclamen Bulbs from Easy to Grow Bulbs at a 35% discount.

Plant the tubers just 1 inch (2.5cm) deep with the concave side facing up. Orientation matters here: this species roots from the top and shoulders rather than the base. Also, rodents and squirrels love digging up fresh tubers. Pin a scrap of hardware cloth like Everbilt Galvanized Steel Mesh Cloth from Home Depot over the planting for the first month. The delicate flower stems will easily push right through the wire mesh while pests are blocked out. Expect floral carpets by the second year.

5. Red Spider Lily

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There is no warning with this one. Red spider lily (Lycoris radiata) scapes come up fast after the first soaking rain that follows a hot spell. They reach 12-18 inches (30-45cm), and open into coral-red umbels with stamens curling out like wire. Known as the Hurricane Lily in the South, this beauty delivers high dramatic impact in zones 7-10 (6 with shelter), and scapes can grow 2 inches (5cm) a day. You can buy SB Store’s Heirloom Red Spider Lily Bulbs from Amazon in packs for a great price.

Proper planting depth is the single most critical factor for triggering blooms. The long neck of the bulb must sit at or slightly above the soil surface. If buried deep like a tulip, the bulb will produce plenty of strap-like winter leaves, but will stay flowerless. Because the plant disappears in June and July, it’s a good idea to mark planting spots with stakes so you don't accidentally slice through sleeping bulbs with a spade. Newly planted dry bulbs may skip flowering during their first autumn while building roots, but they establish quickly and bloom reliably every September after that.

6. Nerine

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Nerine (N. bowdenii) sends up umbels of narrow, wavy-edged petals on 18-inch (45cm) stems. Bringing neon vibrancy to the late autumn garden, this bulb (aka the Guernsey lily) produces sparkling pink flowers with wavy petals. Blooming in October and persisting well into November, nerines are a beacon for late-season butterflies and beneficial pollinators. Position them along main pathways or near entryways, where their pretty hues can be appreciated up close.

Plant with the top of the bulb at or slightly above the surface, in the driest ground you have. These bulbs thrive with sharp drainage and root confinement, against a sunny, south-facing stone or brick wall. Allow the clumps to multiply for 5-7 years before considering division. In colder zones (zone 6 and below), grow in terracotta pots that can be overwintered in a frost-free garage or basement. If you hurry, you can pick up some Guernsey Lily Bulbs by Seeds, Bulbs, Plants & More from Amazon.

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It can be so rewarding to grow your own food, including tasty berries like blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, and more. Not only are they fresher and more nutritious than store-bought, but homegrown berries just taste better.

If you grow berries, you probably already know the frustration of losing fruit to animals before a harvest. Both birds and mammals love berries, too, and they won’t respect the boundaries of your garden. Keep in mind that knowing how to protect fruit trees from birds is not exactly the same as protecting berries, which generally grow lower to the ground and attract more critters.

From squirrels to birds to rabbits, deer, and raccoons, your berry canes and bushes are susceptible to significant nibbling and harvest loss. Below I’ll share my top tips for protecting those berries so you can enjoy the fruits of your labor.

1. Cover Berries With Bird Netting

(Image credit: Alexander Shapovalov / Getty Images)

A physical barrier is the most foolproof, simple, and humane way to protect fruit from animals. If you can physically prevent animals from getting to your berries, you’ll keep both the fruit and the critters safe. Use this as your primary strategy for berry protection.

Bird netting, which you can get from Ace Hardware, is the most dependable solution for vulnerable berries. If you contact your local extension office for guidance, this is probably what they’ll suggest as the most effective method since birds are the primary problem. Make sure you use a net specifically designed for birds, as these are safe and won’t cause other wildlife to get tangled.

Install bird netting over berries before they ripen. Once birds discover ripe berries, it can be hard to keep them away. The best way to install the net is to use a frame around the bush rather than simply draping it over.

Use stakes, garden hoops, or any simple frame to surround the bush with the net. Use more stakes or garden staples to secure the net to the ground so birds can’t get in underneath it.

2. Build a Cage or Fruit Tunnel

(Image credit: Alamy)

Expanding on the idea of using a net, building a fruit cage or tunnel around your berries takes the physical exclusion strategy to the next level. Consider this solution if you have small mammals like chipmunks or squirrels chewing through the bird netting.

You can create a simple cage out of readily available materials: PVC pipes or hoops, garden stakes, metal conduit, scrap wood, and bird netting or a sturdier type of mesh. You can also find commercial crop cages to buy rather than building your own. This crop cage from Amazon comes in a variety of sizes and shapes to accommodate whatever berry plants you have, from small shrubs to trees.

Either option is a highly effective way to protect your berries, as they keep netting or mesh well away from the fruit so little paws and mouths can’t reach them.

3. Use Scare Tactics & Deterrents

(Image credit: FotoVSmirnov / Getty Images)

Scare tactics can still be humane, as they don’t actually harm animals but deter them from specific areas of the garden. They are like barriers, but not actual physical structures so they're a great way to keep animals out of the garden without a fence.

You can use movement, sound, water, or even scent to scare animals away from ripening berries. Here are some of the most effective ways to scare away animals :

• Reflective mylar tape and ribbons, which you can get on Amazon
• Shiny streamers
• Balloons
• Fake hawk and owl decoys, which are available from Ace Hardware
• Motion-activated sprinklers
• Noise-making devices, like this ultrasonic animal deterrent from Amazon
• Predator scent sprays (for deer, Content Editor Laura swears by Liquid Fence from Home Depot)

The downside of many deterrents is that animals get used to them and lose their fear, especially with stationary items. Move these frequently and consider using anything that moves.

For motion-activated devices, place sensors on paths leading to berries, not just directly next to the berries. Consider using some of these deterrents with physical barriers for extra protection.

4. Harvest Berries Promptly

(Image credit: Vitalii Petrushenko / Getty Images)

One of the easiest ways to avoid losing your berry harvest, or at least a significant amount of it, is to harvest promptly. The longer berries stay on the bushes or canes, the more opportunities you have to lose them to foraging animals.

This is a good strategy if you’re ok with losing some of your berries and if you have a way to use or preserve all the berries you pick at one time. Of course, berries don’t all ripen at once, so check your plants daily.

It’s also a good idea to regularly remove damaged, overripe, or dropped fruit. Even though you don’t want to use this fruit, leaving it in place will only attract more critters.

Aside from harvesting in a timely manner, whichever method you choose to use for protecting your harvest, it’s important that you start well before the berries ripen. For the best results, use all of these strategies. A physical barrier with scare tactics and deterrents plus picking berries early and regularly will work together to save your harvest.

We all want healthy, productive hydrangeas that put on a gorgeous show with big clusters of multiple flowers, often in color-shifting shades that add to the magic. So when your hydrangea looks healthy and is leafy and green, but doesn’t produce very many flowers, it can be very frustrating. We tend to think of lazy blooming as a plant failure, but in reality, your shrub is likely just conserving energy after sustaining some sort of stress or a minor care mistake.

A disappointing season of blooms doesn't necessarily mean your shrub isn’t healthy or that it’s a lost cause. Targeted hydrangea care in early September can help you identify the issue and ensure next year is better. Whether you’re dealing with undersized flower heads, muted color shifts, sparse clusters, or a shrub that failed to produce a single flower bud, this month is critical if you want to turn things around. You can correct care mistakes, safeguard overwintering buds, and guarantee a heavy floral show next year if you take action now.

Timing is everything: as late summer turns into early fall, our beloved shrubs are undergoing a transition. While panicle (Hydrangea paniculata) and smooth (H. arborescens) varieties showcase their final colors, bigleaf (H. macrophylla), oakleaf (H. quercifolia), and mountain (H. serrata) types are setting next spring's flower buds. Taking action this month doesn't just address this year’s frustrations, but lays the foundations for a breathtaking show next year. So don’t give up on your lazy bloomer just yet. Here’s what you need to know…

Why are They Lazy Bloomers?

To solve this floral mystery, you must first pinpoint the specific type of hydrangea growing in your borders. Bigleaf, mountain, and oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood, which means the flower buds that will open next June and July are being formed right now on current summer stems. By contrast, panicles and smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood, setting buds on fresh shoots produced in spring.

This critical distinction dictates every single move you make now, especially with your pruners. A mistimed trim on an old-wood variety risks snipping away next year’s entire flower show before it even has a chance to start. And if you pruned a bigleaf hydrangea in late summer or fall last year, that could explain why you got few or no flowers this year). So before you do anything, make sure you know exactly which hydrangea type you’re dealing with.

(Image credit: Ironstuff / Getty Images)

Late summer stress can frequently take a silent toll on bloom capacity. Prolonged heatwaves, intense afternoon sun, compacted clay, and accidental over-application of nitrogen-rich lawn fertilizers can force even the hardiest hydrangea into survival mode, prioritizing basic leaf survival over flower production. Regional hardiness plays a key role as well. Growers in northern USDA hardiness zones 4-6 may find late spring frosts zapped tender old-wood buds, while southern gardeners in zones 8-9 may have to contend with root stress and soil dehydration.

You can check to see if your soil is dehydrated with a simple diagnostic like the Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon, which is easy to use, doesn’t need a battery, and also identifies pH levels. Before diving into these fixes, it’s also a good idea to make sure you sanitize your bypass pruners with rubbing alcohol, like the brilliant Swan Isopropyl Alcohol from Walmart, or a light wipe of organic neem oil to reduce the risks of cross-contamination. Hopefully, the following fixes can help you understand what might have gone wrong with your blooms, and how to ensure they flourish and flower to their best next year.

1. Prune at the Right Time

(Image credit: Igor Paszkiewicz / Getty Images)

Pruning a hydrangea at the wrong time of year is a leading reason for decreased flowering. When you prune matters, because bad timing means you might be trimming off the buds that become summer flowers. For old-wood hydrangeas, like bigleaf and oakleaf, prune lightly right after they’ve finished flowering using ultra-precise snips like the Corona Hydroponic Finger Snips from Amazon. Immediacy is key, or else you risk trimming off next year’s buds. Trim lightly for shape and to remove any dead, diseased or damaged stems.

A word of caution: depending on when they stop flowering, old-wood varieties can start to set their flower buds for the following year during September. Pruning in late fall risks removing newly formed buds and can leave you with fewer blooms next season, so please proceed with caution. If you think you have accidentally pruned at the wrong time this year, don’t panic. Allow the plant to drop its leaves naturally, and focus on winter protection so that remaining low buds can survive.

For new-wood panicle hydrangeas (like Limelight) and smooth varieties (like Annabelle), it’s best to prune in late winter or early spring while the shrubs are dormant. They won’t set buds until new growth appears in spring. Do not prune after the new growth appears, or you’ll take off the budding flowers. You can remove one-half to one-third of the plant during dormancy. Committing to correct timings now will help restore structural vigor and yield recovery within a single growing season.

2. Use the Right Fertilizer to Protect Flowers

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

If your hydrangeas are full of healthy, big leaves and lots of green growth, the issue might be your fertilizer. Products with a lot of nitrogen promote foliage growth over flowers. One common problem is using lawn fertilizer near shrubs. These products are high in nitrogen and can impact your hydrangea’s growth and flowering. High nitrogen forces rapid, sappy growth at the expense of floral development. In early September, high-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly dangerous. They stimulate tender green shoots that won’t have time to harden off before the first frost, leaving the plant vulnerable to winter dieback.

Where possible, keep lawn fertilizers well away from your hydrangea’s root zones. Then check the fertilizer you are using. If it’s high in nitrogen, stop using it. More foliage now will not help you get more flowers next year. Switch to a product with higher phosphorus (ideally 10-20-10) for the final feedings of the growing season. This balance will promote strong root growth and flower bud formation. For a gentle slow release of helpful nutrients, try Espoma Bone Meal from The Home Depot, which balances low nitrogen with targeted phosphorus for root and bud health. This nutrient pivot will dramatically increase flower bud density by the following May.

3. Manage Drought and Heat Stress

(Image credit: Edwardkirillov / Shutterstock)

Late summer can get very hot and dry in many areas. High temperatures, intense afternoon sunlight, and inconsistent moisture in the soil can all cause significant stress. Hydrangeas react to this stress by diverting energy away from flower production and into simply surviving. Some characteristic signs of weather-related stress in hydrangeas include wilting, brown and crispy margins on leaves, scorched leaves, and premature leaf drop, as well as reduced flowering.

Smooth hydrangeas and bigleaf types are known to wilt under high sun, whereas panicle hydrangeas feature thicker, leathery leaves that tolerate full afternoon sun remarkably well if given consistent ground moisture. To reverse heat stress before fall begins in earnest, adjust your watering routine. Water regularly and deeply at the soil level. It’s better to water deeply every few days than shallowly every day. Check the first few inches of soil, and if they are dry, it’s time for a soaking.

Pair deep watering with a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) layer of shredded organic bark mulch. Best-selling Vigoro Shredded Wood Mulch from The Home Depot is exceptionally good value for forming that protective insulating blanket. Layer your mulch around the base, keeping a few inches clear of the main stems. Mulch helps keep more moisture in the soil and cools the roots. If your hydrangeas are getting full sun in the afternoon and showing signs of wilting, be sure to provide some late-day shade with a shade cloth or patio umbrella.

4. Check Light Levels

(Image credit: Billy_fam / Getty Images)

While afternoon light can be a little much for hydrangeas during a drought or extreme heat, too little light can also be a problem. The ideal setup for abundant flowers is bright light but protection from intense late-day sun. Exact light requirements will vary according to variety and region. As a general rule, bigleaf and oakleaf hydrangeas thrive in dappled morning sun with filtered afternoon shade, requiring 3-5 hours of direct morning light. In dense, deep shade, they will produce lovely green foliage but almost no flowers. Conversely, panicle hydrangeas require at least 6 hours of full sun daily to support their massive, cone-shaped blooms.

Check on your hydrangeas at different times of day to notice when they get sunlight and for how long. If you suspect that too much shade is the culprit for causing your hydrangea's lazy blooming habits, please avoid the temptation to dig up the plant during late summer heat. This can cause transplant shock, which can be fatal. Instead, use this month to evaluate canopy lighting and plan a successful transplant for early next spring while your shrub is fully dormant. If it is an option, lightly thinning overhead tree branches in early autumn to increase ambient light penetration, giving your shrub a sunlight boost to initiate flower buds for next year.

5. Protect Next Year’s Buds During Winter

(Image credit: Juan Carlos Juarez Jaramillo / Getty Images)

If you grow old-wood hydrangeas, the buds that form later in the season must survive the winter in order to bloom next year. Winter bud mortality is a big reason why bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas can fail to bloom in zones 4-6. These are vulnerable to winter frost and freeze damage that could be a cause of reduced flowering in summer. As long as you grow hydrangea within its hardiness zone and have normal winter weather, this shouldn’t be an issue.

However, extreme and unusual cold weather or early and late frosts can cause damage. A late spring frost in April or May (after buds have begun to swell) can wipe out a season of flowers in a single night. If your hydrangea seems lazy now, perhaps a late frost is to blame? Sadly, you can’t undo this, but you can prepare for this winter to minimize ongoing problems. Avoid unnecessary late-season pruning, and keep your plants well-watered. Continue deep watering until the ground freezes, as a hydrated plant can resist frost desiccation far better than drought-stressed stems.

It’s also a good idea to cover bigleaf hydrangeas with landscape cloth if temperatures drop unusually low. AG Fabric Heavy Duty Plant Freeze Protection Fabric from Amazon can give peace of mind when those cold snaps threaten, protecting from drying winds as well as lightweight frosts. Alternatively, cover with a landscape cloth, a burlap sack or wrap, or even an old blanket, if temperatures drop unusually low. Keep your frost cloth handy in early spring to shield swelling buds during unexpected late freezing nights, ensuring that floral comeback in summer.

6. Improve the Soil

(Image credit: Ashley Belle Burns / Getty Images)

Poor soil conditions lead to an overall unhealthy plant as well as a lack of flowers. In poor soil, a plant will focus on survival, resulting in weak foliage and flower growth. Check your soil for compaction and drainage. Compaction can prevent water and nutrients from getting to roots, or cause water to pool around roots. Work in compost or other organic matter to reduce compaction. Using a biochar booster is a lovely way of assisting with better soil structure. Rosy Soil Biochar Booster from Walmart is perfect for helping to balance water retention and overall soil health.

There is a lot of talk about pH in the soil with hydrangeas. The acidity or alkalinity primarily affects flower color, not whether or not a plant will bloom, so this is not too important. It’s more important to focus on drainage, compaction, and nutrients. Don’t neglect overly sandy soils which drain quickly, leaching away valuable phosphorus and potassium before feeder roots can absorb them. Consider getting a soil test to find out if it is deficient in any particular nutrient, which you can then address.

September is an ideal month to improve soil structure. Gently topdress with a 1-inch (2.5cm) layer of organic compost or biochar-enriched soil conditioner. Earthworms and soil microbes will naturally pull this organic matter down into the root zone. This foundational soil care ensures your hydrangea emerges in spring with high vigor and massive blooming capacity. Remember, this year’s flower show might be drawing to a close, but there is always hope for next year. With these checks and changes, you have every reason to expect a better show next year.

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

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Lots of flowering plants are best sown in spring once days begin to lengthen and the last frost is behind us, but there are plenty that can be sown in fall for abundant blooms the following summer. In fact, there are lots of seeds that are better started in fall than spring. Get all these tough-cookie varieties into the ground now and you’ll get bigger plants that flower earlier next year than if you’d sown the exact same seed in spring.

You see, some seeds need to be exposed to low temperatures and moisture before they’ll germinate, a process called cold stratification. That’s why you’ll see tips about freezing poppy seeds in ice cubes before sowing. But it’s far easier to simply let winter do the job for you. Because germination is largely governed by day length or temperature, and sometimes both, you can rest assured that fall-sown seed will sprout at the exact right moment in spring that suits it best, too.

Other species are hardy enough that they will germinate quickly in fall and survive winter as a small plant, racing ahead of spring-sown varieties as soon as the sun’s warmth returns. But the really good news is that because of their naturally resilient nature, seeds that can be sown in fall are usually low-maintenance plants that practically grow themselves, and gently self-seed to give you more blooms for free. Which of these beauties will you sow this fall, for the wisest garden investment you'll make this year?

1. Bachelor Buttons

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Cornflowers sown in fall will flower by late May and June, so by making a spring sowing too, you can enjoy these low-maintenance blooms in your garden for months. While there are plenty of many-petalled varieties to choose from, the simpler open flowers allow bees and butterflies better access to the sweet nectar. Birds will eat the seeds, too.

Centaurea cyanus ‘Blue Boy’ has a lovely blue hue and grows 2-3 feet tall and is particularly attractive to pollinators; stems last well in a vase and the petals are edible, making a pretty sprinkling in salads or on cupcakes. Cornflower ‘Blue Boy’ seeds are available from Botanical Interests. September is an ideal month to sow and while it’s an annual, Bachelor Buttons gently self-sow so will return without any assistance from you.

2. Poppies

(Image credit: Elena Koromyslova / Shutterstock)

Papaver somniferum are annual poppies, completing their lifecycle in a year but gently self-seeding for fresh plants the following year. They need a period of cold to germinate well so by sowing them in fall, you give them the natural conditions to which they’re suited.

There are all sorts of wonderful Papaver somniferum to choose from, which is why it’s fun to grow a blend of varieties such as the Peony Double Blend Poppy Seeds from Botanical Interests. Double poppies look rather like peonies and their nodding buds and shapely seedpods all add to the display.

3. Purple Coneflower

(Image credit: Alamy)

Sowing perennial Echinacea purpurea in fall mimics its natural lifecycle and cool winter temperatures will lead to strong germination in spring. Because seeds sprout as soon as the conditions are viable, you’ll get stronger plants this way, too. Echinacea purpurea usually spends its first year growing foliage and a supportive root system, adding flowers in the second year and reaching full blooming abundance in its third year. Get them off to a head start with a fall sowing, however, and you may be lucky and be rewarded with a few flowers in the first year.

So yes, you’ll need to be a little patient, but looking at the pricetags of mature ready-to-bloom plants can help with that! Echinacea purpurea seeds are available from Eden Brothers and the perfect time to sow is right around your first hard frost.

4. Larkspur

(Image credit: Brytta / Getty Images)

A September or October sowing of larkspur brings larger plants and longer stems of this pretty as pretty can be plant. Consolida regalis flowers in late spring and early summer and, in cooler zones, can carry on flowering all the way to fall, and is much loved by hummingbirds. Growing 3-4 feet tall, these elegant spires are prized by florists, and the stems dry well for lasting arrangements, too.

Larkspur ‘Shades of Blue’, available from Botanical Interests, is a favorite as it has multiple blue hues and, though it’s an annual, self-seeds easily. One word of caution: all parts of this plant are toxic if eaten.

5. Calendula

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Sow calendula seeds in September or October, around a month before your first expected frost, and you can look forward to strong plants and earlier blooms in spring. Not all calendula are orange, and you can find varieties in shades from cream through yellow and bronze and even pink, like these Surprise calendula seeds from Amazon.

This is a hard-working, low-maintenance plant that’s indispensable in the garden. As well as looking pretty, flowers acts as a trap crop to lure pests from vegetable plants, stems last well in a vase and the petals are edible and can be used to make skincare products.

6. Butterfly Weed

(Image credit: AlpamayoPhoto / Getty Images)

Not a weed at all but a rather lovely plant with vivid orange flowers that draw butterflies from all around, and particularly Monarchs. Butterly weed is another plant that needs a period of cold stratification so let winter do the work for you, then enjoy flowers all through summer and the following fall.

Asclepias tuberosa is a perennial in zones 3-10 so it’ll be back, year after year. Butterfly weed seed is available from Eden Brothers and, for best results, wait until the soil cools down in November before sowing.

7. Coreopsis

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Coreopsis lanceolata is one of the few perennials that will flower the first year from sowing, especially if you give it a head start with a fall sowing. This North American native is beloved by pollinators, so you’ll be adding lots of life to your garden as well as these cheery yellow tickseed blooms.

Lance-leaved coreopsis seed is available from Eden Brothers and the best time to sow is late fall around the first hard frost. Freeze-thaw action over winter will lead to good germination as soon as the ground warms up in early spring.

Tips for a Successful Fall Sowing

• All these seeds can be direct-sown where they are to grow.
• Rake the soil to create a fine texture (called a tilth) and sow seeds according to the instructions on the packet. Some seeds need light to germinate, some need dark, so you'll get far better results if you stick to the sowing guidelines.
• Sow a little more than you want as some seed will inevitably get eaten.
• It can be tricky to know what's a weed and what's a seedling, so sow a pinch of seed in a pot with a label, too. That way, you can easily identify your seedlings.