Organic Gardening News

If you’ve got a yard full of hedges, or even some particularly stubborn ones, the Husqvarna Hedge Master 320iHD60 Hedge Trimmer (320i) is made for you.

Don’t let the fact that it’s battery powered fool you; this thing will cut anything and everything you can throw at it. I trimmed my own hedges, including some fairly large branches, as well as my neighbor’s and my parent’s hedges (as a one-time courtesy) and nothing slowed the 320i down.

The 360i is part of Husqvarna’s MAX battery series of tools, which also includes their new Combi Switch multi-tool, as they branch out into the competing space of electric hedge trimmers. The idea is to use the same battery system to power a whole range of outdoor tools and in this case, the 360i comes with the company’s Bli22 battery and charger. The long cutting length means it can get to even the most hard-to-reach places, and the three-position handle makes for easy angle cutting so you’re not breaking your wrists trying to twist the thing.

It also comes with the ability to unjam the blades at the push of a button, so you don’t ever have to worry about getting caught or stuck somewhere and your blade snapping. All the power and features of the Hedge Master make it ideal for even the toughest hedges, but all this makes it fairly heavy so just be ready to take some breaks if using for longer periods.

Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 Hedge Trimmer: price & availability

You can get the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360i from Husqvarna directly, from your local Husqvarna dealer, or from resellers such as Lowe’s, Amazon, and others.

To get one bundled with a battery an charger will set you back $319, but sometimes we’ve seen it for as low as $299. If you’ve already got a compatible battery, you can pick up just the tool itself for $229. This puts it definitely towards the higher end of its competitors, but if you need to be able to cut through just about hedge, you can’t go wrong.

Score: 4.5 out of 5

Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 Hedge Trimmer: First impressions

The first thing I noticed was that the box itself seemed to be a bit more dinged up than I’d expect. My only assumption here is that since mine is a review device, it could quite possible have been a returned item due to the damage of the box. I can’t say for sure, but I would hope assume that most first-time purchase boxes would be in better shape. It also could entire have happened during transit, but either way, it arrived with some dings to the box.

Once inside the box, I was pleasantly surprised at the lack of plastic and Styrofoam present. Some of the pieces had their own plastic bags, but for the most part everything in the packaging was cardboard, which was nice to see. It was also nice that there was essentially no assembly required. You can quickly insert the included option sweeper on top of the blade if you like, but that’s all you would need to do. I also very much appreciated that they included hardware to mount the battery charger to the wall if desired. Other battery-powered tools I’ve purchased did not include that.

After I had it out of the box and got a good look at it, it was clear to see that the 360i means business. The teeth are large and sharp and it’s clear this thing is ready to work.

Future / Jason CockerhamFuture / Jason CockerhamFuture / Jason CockerhamHusqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60: Design

The Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 is extremely easy to use. The large handles are easy to grasp, especially while wearing gloves, and the D-shaped forward handle makes it easy to slide your hand around as you turn the trimmer when changing cutting angles. The safety button built-in the forward handle covers the entire length of the handle so you don’t ever have to take your hand off when adjusting. While the rear handle doesn’t rotate for seamlessly switching cutting angles like on some competitor models, “tri-handle” still makes it fairly easy to rotate quickly.

The large cutting blade certainly helps reach the trickier spots, but that does mean the whole thing is quite large. You’ll need to reserve plenty of space in your garage or tool shed for it. Also, while not as heavy as a gas-powered hedge trimmer, the 360i is still quite heavy, especially for prolonged periods or higher up places. It’s not necessarily a deal breaker, but if you don’t need all the power of the 360i, you could certainly find something smaller and lighter.

(Image credit: Future / Jason Cockerham)

The battery operation does allow for adjustable speeds, however. Just above the power button on the handle is another button that adjusts the cutting speed letting you opt for more power when you need it and more battery life when you don’t. Next to the speed controls is a release button that will open the teeth allowing any stuck branches to fall out; no more jammed blade.

Score: 4.5 out of 5

Husqvarna Hedge Master 320iHD60 Cordless Hedge Trimmer: key specs

Model no:

320iHD60

Blade length:

24 in.

Cutting size:

Up to 1 in.

Cutting speed:

3,800 cut/min

Fuel

Batter - BLi22, 36V / 4.0 Ah

Weight:

8lbs (without battery)

Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60: Performance

The Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 absolutely lives up to its name. No matter what I tried to cut with it, it sliced through it cleanly like a hot knife through butter. I started on a few small, rounded shrubs we have and was able to give them a nice trim in a couple of minutes.

As they are about the height of our garage, this is really where the large size and weight of the 360i made an impact. It almost became a bit unwieldy on such small shrubs. I was certainly feeling it after a couple of minutes, but luckily it didn’t take me long and this hedge trimmer is not designed for such small bushes. To get your money’s worth, you need to take on some larger shrubs.

So that’s what I did.

(Image credit: Future / Jason Cockerham)

Next, I tackled our much larger shrub on the other side of the house and appreciated even more the power and versatility of the Hedge Master. Trimming this hedge has taken me as long as half an hour in the past doing it by hand, but now I can knock it out in less than 10 minutes.

(Image credit: Future / Jason Cockerham)

I also cut an entire row of my neighbor’s waist-high hedges and again was thoroughly impressed with how quickly and neatly I was able to do it. Not only did the Hedge Master cut through everything fast, it left clean, precise cuts, almost as if done by professionals. On some of the thicker spots in the hedges I cranked up the cutting speed and whipped through them with no problem. I even cut through some branches that were fairly thick and never had an issue.

I was pleased to see that battery life was never an issue either. Granted, I wasn’t using it for hours at a time, but most people should not have any trouble trimming their hedges in one charge. The LED indicator on the battery is helpful for keeping track of how much juice you’ve got left.

Once you’re done for the day, there’s really no way to easily disassemble or collapse the Hedge Master so you’ll just have to make room in your garage or tool shed. I do recommend covering the blades between uses with the included blade cover, particularly if you’ve got kids around.

Blade cover to protect the blade (and your fingers!) (Image credit: Future / Jason Cockerham)

Before you put it away, it’s a good idea to make sure there are any leaves or wood chips stuck in the blades and that could damage them over time. Other than a gentle cleaning every now and then sharpening the blades from time to time should be all you need to do.

Score: 5 out of 5

Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60: User reviews

Customer reviews of the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 all echo one another, all speaking highly about the battery-powered tool. It's worth noting that the majority of the reviews I'm reading are incentivized, and the reviews appear across multiple sites; I'll highlight anything standout.

Looking direct on the Husqvarna site it has overall scored 4.8-out-of-5 stars. Reviewers rave about the long battery-life, and how easy and safe it is to use. There is a comment about the cost of batteries for it, though, and the size being bigger than expected. Still, from what I can see, even those three reviews who gave it four stars speak well about it.

Over on reseller sites, Amazon customers have given it an overall rating of 4.6-out-of-five stars. One reviewer says "Great product for the value, I would recommend this to others needing a professional type hedger" whereas another said "This Husqvarna Hedge Master trimmer is exactly what I was looking for". There is a negative comment, though, which is about the lack of power but this seems to be an unfortunate isolated incident. And on Lowe's it scored 4.5-out-of-5 stars with an independent reviewer noting that the trimmer is great to what they had before, but it arrived in a wet box.

Should you buy the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60?Score card

Attribute

Notes

Score

Price & availability

A bit pricey but worth if you have the need. It comes with a battery and is easy to find.

★★★★½

Design

Well built with useful features, best for larger, thicker hedges

★★★★½

Performance

Exceptional trimming performance with plenty of battery life

★★★★★

Buy it if...

You want something easy to use

One of the biggest benefits of battery-powered tools is that they startup instantly without any hassle.

You want to cut all the things

The Hedge Master is quite appropriately named. With its adjustable cutting speeds, it can handle even the trickiest hedges and even branches up to an inch thick.

You want something durable and eco-friendly

Using battery power is typically better for the environment and the Husqvarna build quality is among the best.

Don't buy it if...

You don’t need a lot of power

If you don’t have a lot of hedges, or anything particularly thick, you could certainly do with something a bit smaller and lighter. Not to mention less expensive.

You're on a budget

The Hedge Master is among the pricier hedge trimmers we’ve tested. There are plenty of other good options available for much less.

You don't want to rely on batteries

There are certainly some cases where you would need the power and reliability of a gas-powered hedge trimmer. In that case, you'll need to look elsewhere.

How does the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60 Hedge Trimmer compare?

Overall, the Husqvarna Hedge Master performed tremendously during my testing and offers a lot of value for the money. But as with everything, it’s not perfect.

Lucky for us, Husqvarna isn’t the only hedge trimmer manufacturer in town. If you only have a few small hedges and a good extension cord, the Greenworks 24V is a solid, low-cost option.

For those with taller shrubs or trees that need a good trimming, the DEWALT 20V is well-made.

How I tested the Husqvarna Hedge Master 360iHD60

I tested as many different types of hedges as I had access to for this review. I started with two small, ball-shaped shrubs that stand about head height outside my garage. Next, I attacked a rather large rounded hedge on the corner of our house that had not been trimmed in over two years. Lastly, I trimmed several rows of waist-high rectangular hedges at a few different locations.

Oh we know that the fourth of July is all about family barbecues, drinks in the sunshine and fireworks galore – but between all that, may we humbly suggest you spare five minutes to do some shopping for your garden? Because there are some absolutely cracking July 4 garden deals to be had!

We've scoured the stores to find all the very best garden deals that are half price or better, and can be delivered to your door, so you don't have to take too much time out between star-spangled spritzers. And honestly, we were surprised to discover so many unmissable deals. It must be somebody's birthday or something…

Let's cut to the chase, shall we, and shop some awesome gardening deals!

Garden Bargains Under $10

Chop chop!

Lightweight Pruning Shears

With super-sharp blades, these professional-grade snips are super for deadheading, pruning houseplants and harvesting herbs.

Easy sowing

Seed Starting Tray

Now’s a great time to sow biennials for next year’s flowers, and Burpee's starter trays have a smart watering system and flexible pop-out cells.

Banish pesky flies

Outdoor Fly Trap

Simply add water to activate this hanging trap which is capable of catching up to 20,000 flies, then close the top cone and drop into the trash can.

Stylish Finds

Boho bargain

Wicker Planter Stand Set

Designed for indoor use with study wooden bases and woven bamboo baskets, this black boho set will set off green houseplant foliage nicely.

goes with everything

Alegre Indoor/Outdoor Rug

Measuring 8’ x 5’, this indoor/outdoor rug is made from a durable 90% polypropylene, 10% polyester mix and is weather-, stain- and UV-resistant.

9 colors available

Clitheroe Adirondack Chair

Available in 9 appealing colors, this Adirondack chair is made from wood-grain durable HDPE, folds flat for easy storage, and supports up to 360lbs.

Gardening Goodies

it's a snip

Garden Pruning Shears Set

These aren’t the finest-quality pruners but they have stainless steel blades and non-slip rubber grips, as spare pruners they’re a real snip at this price!

Metal worktop

Gracie Oaks Potting Bench

Crafted from fir wood with a metal top, this handsome potting bench has a rack, drawer, cupboard and three side hooks for handy storage.

Folds for storage

Best Choice Utility Cart

A utility cart has so many uses in the garden, and this has an adjustable handle, rugged swivel wheels and carries up to 150lbs.

Great Gardening Gifts

Handsome birdbath

Pedestal Bird Bath

Made from durable resin with a copper verdigris effect, this 28”-high pedestal birdbath has a bowl that measures a generous 20” x 2”.

Plant-now bulbs

75 Perennial Gladioli Bulbs

Plant these bulbs in July and they'll take around 90 days to bloom for spectacular fall color. Hardy in zones 7-10, treat as annuals in zones 3-6.

Starter Kit

10-Piece Gardening Set

This 10-piece set includes a hand fork, rake, weeder, trowel and transplanter, pruners, mister and gardening gloves in a carrying tote with handy pockets.

Outdoor Living Lovelies

Elegant spire

Metal Garden Arbor

A stylish powder-coated metal arbor at this price? Yes please! Measuring H9.5’ x L4.1’ x D1.3’, this self-assembly (tools included) arch is a good size, too.

stunning lawn art

2 Metal Crane Garden Statues

Each of these rustproof metal crane sculptures measures H35” x W11” x D8”, creating a striking garden feature. U-shaped stakes for lawn stability included.

on-trend tones

96 Gallon Storage Box

An appealing PE rattan fade-resistant outer, waterproof zipper liner and lockable wheels make this spacious storage box a great buy.

Room to Grow

Great for veggies

2 Galvanized Raised Beds

Each measuring 8’ x 4’ x 1’, these galvanized raised beds have open bases so are perfect for raising vegetables and are reinforced with central rods.

Perfect for a rose

Trellised Metal Arch

Made from durable, rustproof powder-coated steel, this self-assembly arch (tools are included) measures H81" x W81" x D20.5".

super for herbs

Best Choice Metal Raised Bed

Measuring 4' x 2' x 1', this powder-coated steel self-assembly raised bed can be put together without tools and offers ample growing space.

Stylish Storage

Handy side table

WaterProof Deck Box

This textured polyresin side table with faux wood top doubles as waterproof storage – perfect for a last-minute tidy-up when unexpected guests arrive.

By-the-backdoor shed

Wooden Garden Cabinet

With adjustable shelves and a section for storing long-handled tool, this attractive vertical shed measures a perfect H63” x W27” x D17”.

Garden cabinet

Modernluxe Potting Bench

Styled like a kitchen dresser, this striking cabinet is made of fir wood and has anti-tip ground nails and multiple storage options.

Handy Garden Tools

tidy up leaves

Cordless Leaf Blower

This cordless leaf blower has two speeds of 80mph and 145mph and comes with two batteries and a charger for up to 40 minutes of operation.

Level your lawn

Lawn Leveling Rake

Fitted with a 67”-long rod and anti-slip handle, this metal lawn levelling rake has a 36” x 10” spreading plate and can be disassembled for easy storage.

get greener grass

Electric Lawn Scarifier

With three height positions, this removes and gathers moss and dead grass from your lawn, leaving you with a greener, healthier sward.

Time to Relax!

cozy toes

Indoor/Outdoor Rug

Add Mediterranean style to your deck or patio in seconds with this 7’6” x 5’3” polypropylene indoor/outdoor rug that’s weather- and fade-resistant.

Loungers for sunlovers

Nestl Polyresin Lounger Set

Available in five colors including black, forest green and gray, this set of two sun loungers with adjustable backrests are made from wood-grain polypropylene.

Room for two

Brazilian-Style Hammock

With a steel frame, tightly woven cotton-blend sling and handy carrying bag, this hammock accommodates two people or 450lbs, and disassembles for storage.

Water Deal!

irrigation kit

Drip Irrigation System Kit

With 16 360° adjustable copper nozzles and and bendable drip emitter rods, this home irrigation system has quick-connect components for fast set-up.

glows at night

4-Tier Water Fountain

This plug-and-go 23”-high faux-stone water feature has a 9.7’ power cord and is made from resin and fiberglass and is suitable for indoor and outdoor use.

So strong

100' Garden Hose

This kink-free, lightweight but heavy-duty hose is made from reinforced polymer and anodized aluminum fittings to stand up to high-pressure, year-round use.

In spring and early summer, rose care is all about encouraging new and rapid growth. By July, it’s more about survival. This can be a tough time for roses as temperatures soar and conditions dry. Stress can lead to reduced flowering, pests, and disease getting a foothold.

Good rose care now, during this critical period, is all about keeping them healthy in tough conditions. These simple but important July tasks will help them survive, thrive, and keep flowering through the summer. And what’s the biggest mistake you can make to halt repeat blooms? Check out task number one below.

1. Deadhead Spent Blooms

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

Repeat-blooming roses produce a gorgeous flush of abundant flowers in late spring and early summer. If you treat them right, they’ll do it again, but July care is critical. The biggest mistake you can make is getting lazy about deadheading or not doing it correctly.

Deadheading roses sends a signal to your plant that it’s not done making flowers yet, stimulating another round of blooms. The correct way to do this is to make a clean cut just above the first set of five leaflets. If your roses grow in clusters, cut off each individual flower as it fades.

Make sure to use clean, sharp shears to prevent disease spread and stem damage. Fiskars' bypass pruning shears, available on Amazon, are a good budget-friendly pick.

It’s better to deadhead regularly rather than waiting for all of the flowers to fade. Check on your bushes every few days and trim off any spent flowers that you see. This one simple chore will keep your roses blooming all summer.

2. Water Deeply

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

The next most important thing you can do to keep your roses happy, healthy, and blooming is to keep the soil moist. July in many gardens is hot with minimal rainfall. Roses need an inch of water a week, so if it’s not raining, you must provide the water.

The best way to water roses in summer is to water deeply once or twice a week rather than shallowly every day. Deep watering encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, where it’s cooler. Water with a hose or drip irrigation – this Carparthen kit from Amazon will get you started. Avoid overhead watering, as getting leaves wet encourages fungal disease.

How frequently you give your roses a deep watering depends on several factors. Increase the frequency during very hot or dry conditions. You should also water container roses more often, possibly every day, depending on the weather.

3. Keep the Mulch Fresh

(Image credit: Alamy)

Mulch is a must-have for roses in summer. There are multiple benefits to keeping a clean, two- to three-inch (5–7.5 cm) layer of mulch around rose bushes. The first is that it keeps the soil cool, which helps reduce plant stress.

Mulching around a rose bush also helps retain soil moisture, which is critical during a hot, dry summer. Covering the soil reduces the risk of fungal spores splashing up and onto leaves during watering or rain. Finally, a good layer of mulch helps keep weeds at bay.

July is a good time to make sure the mulch layer around your roses is deep enough and clean. Add more or replace degraded mulch as needed. Always keep the mulch a few inches away from the rose stems, as piling it up there can actually contribute to disease and rot.

You can use straw or shredded bark, but coconut husk is also a good option, like Back to the Roots' Organic Expanding Coconut Husk Mulch.

4. Feed, But Lightly

(Image credit: Knock Out Roses)

Roses are notoriously heavy feeders. Fertilizing roses is important for healthy growth and ongoing flowering. You probably started feeding your roses in spring, which is the time to feed heavily to promote new growth. In July, you should keep feeding roses to keep them healthy but not so heavily that they put out a lot of new growth during hot, often dry weather.

Stick with a balanced fertilizer in July, like 10-10-10. You can also look for a rose-specific product, like Miracle-GRO Water Soluble Rose Plant Food, and follow the label instructions.

Water your roses deeply after applying the fertilizer to reduce the risk of stress. If your garden has been going through a major heat wave or drought, skip the fertilizer for now and focus on watering. You can resume feeding once temperatures ease up.

5. Keep an Eye on Pests and Diseases

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Rose pests and diseases often take root more readily when plants are stressed. The stress of July heat, humidity, and dry soil means you need to keep a careful eye on your rose bushes. Look for aphids, spider mites, Japanese beetles, black spot, and powdery mildew.

If you do see pests, start with the least damaging method of control, like a spray of water, and, if needed, move on to insecticidal soaps or other pest control products. For signs of disease, tidy up by removing and disposing of any affected leaves. Clean up the ground around the roses to prevent disease spread. Move on to chemical fungicides only if necessary.

BioAdvanced All-In-One Rose and Flower Plant Care Spray provides good protection against pests and diseases.

July Rose Care Essentials

Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears

Miracle-Gro Water-Soluble Rose Plant Food

Bioadvanced All-In-One Rose and Flower Plant Care Spray

While early summer is a growth period for roses, think of July care as maintenance. Now is the time to protect your roses and encourage more flowers, not to trigger a flush of new growth. Focus on water, deadheading, light feeding, mulch, and pest and disease control to get the most out of your plants.

Confession time: I have spent the past week desperately trying to keep both myself and my garden alive, and my efforts have made me realize that heatwaves have a funny way of making us panic. .. often in a way that does more harm than good.

During periods of extreme heat, plants go into survival mode. Instead of focusing on producing new growth, they're conserving water and protecting themselves from stress. That means the way you care for your garden during a heatwave should look a little different than it does the rest of the summer.

I get it, obviously; the moment temperatures climb, it's tempting to reach for the hose, trim away anything that looks dead, and give struggling plants a dose of fertilizer in the hope of helping them bounce back. All of those well-intentioned efforts, though, can and will make matters worse.

Gardening Mistakes That Can Kill Plants During a Heatwave

When temperatures soared recently, I set to work, And, when my husband (a professional gardener) got home, I proudly told him all of the wonderful things I had done to keep our plants alive and thriving in the heat.

Cue him lovingly, albeit very wearily, branding me a menace. Because, as it turns out, I had committed three cardinal sins when it comes to gardening in a heatwave...

1. Watering Incorrectly

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

When your plants start looking droopy in the afternoon sun, it's only natural to want to grab the hose immediately. But watering in the middle of the day really isn't the most effective approach.

In the heat of the afternoon, more water is lost to evaporation before it has a chance to soak into the soil and reach plant roots. Instead, the best time to water plants is early in the morning, when temperatures are cooler and plants have time to absorb moisture before the day's heat sets in.

Rather than watering little and often, give plants a deep soak that encourages roots to grow further into the soil, where moisture lasts longer. Water at the base of the plant instead of wetting the foliage, and remember that containers and hanging baskets may still need an additional watering later in the day during prolonged heat.

Shop Garden Watering Essentials:

Terrain Heritage Garden Hose

Available in three eye-popping hues, this hose is here to do a job AND look good doing it.

Know Before You Grow

XLUX Long Probe Soil Moisture Meter

A 16-inch probe allows you to easily measure soil moisture throughout your garden beds.

Terrain Daffodil Copper Rain Chain

Rain harvesting is already the chicest trend of all (who doesn't love to grow sustainably), but this cute AF rain chain takes things to a whole new level.

2. Fertilizing Stressed Plants

(Image credit: Oliver Helbig / Getty Images)

It's easy to assume that a struggling plant needs feeding, but in very hot weather, fertilizer can actually add to its stress. In fact, many experts say that this is one of those common garden mistakes that can kill plants during a heatwave.

When temperatures are extremely high, plants naturally slow their growth to conserve energy. Fertilizer encourages fresh, tender growth, which requires even more water and is particularly vulnerable to scorching in hot weather. Applying fertilizer to dry soil can also increase the risk of root burn.

If your plants are looking stressed by the heat, focus on keeping them properly watered instead. Once temperatures return to normal and plants begin actively growing again, you can resume your regular feeding schedule.

3. Pruning away scorched leaves

(Image credit: Future - Amy Draiss)

I have a habit of picking at things (woe betide any split ends that appear in my hair; they will never be able to survive my obsessive snapping fingers). Still, while brown, crispy leaves aren't exactly attractive, we should resist the urge to prune them off straight away.

Although damaged foliage may no longer look healthy, it can still provide valuable shade for stems, fruit, and developing leaves underneath. Removing any plant sunburn during a heatwave can actually expose the rest of the plant to even more intense sunlight, increasing the risk of sunscald and further stress.

Unless a branch is dead, diseased, or creating a safety hazard, it's usually best to wait until cooler weather arrives before doing any significant pruning. Once the heatwave has passed, you can remove damaged growth and allow fresh new shoots to take over.

Try Slow Watering During Heatwaves:

The Olla Company Classic Olla Watering Pot With Lid

Planning a long vacation? The makers of this olla say you can combine it with upcycled water or wine bottles for extended watering.

Back to the Roots Self-Watering Terracotta Olla Pot

Built to support the needs of two large plants over a long weekend, this budget-friendly olla pot is a brilliant investment.

GARDENBRO 4 Pcs Ollas Terracotta Watering Pots

One self-confessed plant killer has heaped praise on this olla kit, insisting they only need to water once a week with it in situ.

Instead of trying to fix heat-stressed plants, focus on reducing the stress they're under. My husband swears by a thick layer of mulch can help keep soil cooler and reduce moisture loss, and delaying planting or transplanting until temperatures drop is the best way to give new plants a much better chance of establishing successfully.

Basically, heatwaves can be tough on gardens, but they don't have to spell disaster. Sometimes the best thing you can do is resist the urge to overcare for your plants. Be more chill. Do less!

Honestly, if you water wisely, avoid unnecessary pruning and fertilizing, and let your garden ride out the heat, your plants will often recover far better than you might expect once things cool down. Probably better than you if you forget that all-important suncream!

Look, I’m a gardening writer. I know the theory. I can tell you when to prune, when to feed, and when to leave well alone. And yet, when it comes to deadheading in my own garden, I’m embarrassed to admit that I turn into someone who is, frankly, a bit timid with the snips.

Enter my husband: a professional gardener with two decades of experience under his belt, who is both infuriatingly knowledgeable and completely fearless with a pair of pruners. He also, I should add, thinks I’m almost painfully cautious when deadheading.

Yes, whenever he spots me deadheading roses or salvias, he'll quietly take the secateurs from my hands before proceeding to cut what feels like an alarming amount off the plant. I stand there internally wondering whether I should be calling the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Plants.

Stop Being So Timid When Deadheading

In the interests of settling our long-running deadheading debate once and for all, I cornered him after work while he was trying to cook dinner and asked him exactly what I was getting wrong.

As ever, he was calm, kind…and entirely convinced I needed to be much braver.

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

Forever patient, he endured my barrage of deadheading questions as he attempted to pull together a bolognese our picky children might actually eat for once. "I know you hate cutting them back because it feels like you're ruining the plant," he told me, "but you've got to be braver with those shears.

"If you just nip off the faded flower, you're wasting your time. On most repeat-flowering plants, you want to follow the flower stem down to the first strong pair of healthy leaves or a side shoot, then make your cut just above that. That's where the plant can produce strong new growth."

In other words, don't just remove the dead flower itself; by following the spent flower stem down to a healthy leaf joint instead of leaving behind a short stub, you're encouraging the plant to direct its energy into producing fresh shoots and, ultimately, another flush of flowers.

Shop Deadheading Essentials:

Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears

These herb garden scissors are ideal for taking fast cuttings of herbs to throw into any recipe. Plus, you can put them in the dishwasher to clean them!

NCGDPZY Gardener's Thumb Knife

These thumb knives are a bit different than the silicone kind, but they are just as effective. Slip it over your index finger and thumb and use the sharp razor blade to quickly prune plants.

Fiskars Comfort Loop Pruning Snips

These petite microtip pruning scissors are great for bonsai training or little pruning tasks in the garden. The comfortable handles make them easy and accessible for anyone to use.

It isn’t just me who fears deadheading too far; my husband reassured me that the majority of his gardening clients get nervous whenever he whips the pruning scissors out. But it is important to remember, he added, just how resilient most garden plants actually are.

"We treat them like they're fragile," he laughed. "But they're not. As long as you're following the flower stem back to a healthy point on the plant, most repeat-flowering plants absolutely thrive on a bit of tough love."

That being said, confidence is only half the battle. "Keep your shears sharp," he advised me, barely looking up from the pan. "You don't want to crush the stem; you want one clean, quick slice. Think of it like a surgical procedure, not a massacre."

A clean cut heals more quickly and is less likely to leave the plant vulnerable to disease than a ragged stem. And my husband also stressed that while most repeat-flowering plants benefit from confident deadheading, there are exceptions.

(Image credit: Melanie Griffiths)

"Think about once-blooming roses," he says. "If you've got an old-fashioned climbing rose that only flowers once a year, don't start cutting long stems back in midsummer. You could be removing next year's flowers before they've even formed. Just tidy up the spent blooms and leave the framework alone."

Spring-flowering bulbs also need a gentler approach. "You can remove the faded flower heads from daffodils and tulips if you want them to look tidier," he explained, "but leave the leaves alone until they've yellowed naturally. That foliage is feeding the bulb for next year's flowers."

(Image credit: Olga Yastremska. Getty Images)

Lavender is another plant that deserves a little caution. "Snip off the faded flower spikes and trim the soft green growth if it needs tidying, but don't cut into the old woody stems," he suggested. "Lavender often won't grow back from old wood."

And finally, don't assume every faded flower needs removing immediately. "Some late-season plants, like sedum, are often worth leaving alone. Their seedheads look fantastic through fall and provide food for birds and insects long after the flowers have finished."

All excellent advice, as I'm sure you'll agree. And, while I'm still nowhere near as fearless as my husband with a pair of pruners, the next time I'm hovering nervously over a faded bloom, wondering whether I've gone too far, I'll remember his advice: don't just snip the flower – follow the stem.

Hey, I might even get it embroidered on a T-shirt!

Keeping a lawn green through a hot summer can feel like a losing battle. You water most evenings and run the sprinkler when it gets bad, then a few hard days later brown, dry patches start spreading across it anyway. The frustrating part is that a lot of that water never reaches the roots – it beads up and runs off, leaving the soil underneath bone dry.

That run-off is the clue. Once soil bakes dry in the heat, it can start repelling water instead of soaking it in, and that's half the reason a heat-stressed lawn stays patchy no matter how much you put down. A lawn wetting agent is the little-known fix – a product that helps water break through and soak in evenly, so more of it ends up where the grass can reach it.

What Is a Lawn Wetting Agent?

A wetting agent is a soil surfactant, the same class of compound behind soaps and detergents. Most lawn versions are nonionic surfactants – some synthetic, others plant-derived from coconut or yucca extract – and in plain terms they lower the surface tension of water so it spreads and sinks in rather than sitting on top in beads. That matters because dry soil isn't always simply dry. As organic matter and thatch break down, they can leave a waxy, water-repellent film on soil particles, and ground baked hard in a heatwave often starts to repel water in patches, a condition greenkeepers call dry patch.

Water hydrophobic soil and most of it rolls straight off or runs down a few cracks, leaving the bulk of the root zone untouched. A surfactant breaks that barrier so the water spreads in evenly and gets to the roots. Some products go further, holding moisture in the root zone for longer rather than just hurrying it through. Either way, the agent doesn't add a single drop – it stops the soil from wasting what you already put down.

Hydro Holder Soil Wetting Agent

Why It Helps in a Heatwave

In the middle of a hot, dry spell, that even soak-in is just what a lawn needs. Water reaches more of the root zone, so the patchwork of green and brown evens out and even the stubborn bone-dry spots finally take up moisture. Less run-off means less waste, as well, which counts for plenty when there's a hosepipe ban on or you're paying for every gallon through a meter.

It takes some of the guesswork out of summer lawn watering, too. Since the water sinks in rather than sheeting off, you can usually stretch the time between sessions, and what does soak down tends to reach the deeper roots where it counts. Over a season that adds up to a stronger, more drought-ready lawn. Most lawn wetting agents like this from Amazon come as a hose-end concentrate you just spray on, and one bottle generally covers a good-sized lawn for the summer.

How and When to Apply It

(Image credit: BanksPhotos / Getty Images)

Application is straightforward. With a hose-end bottle you clip it onto the hose and spray evenly across the grass; granular versions get spread with a broadcaster and watered in. Either way, the step that matters is watering it in afterwards, since the agent has to move down into the soil to do its job – left sitting on the surface, it does nothing. Spreading a liquid evenly is easier with a hose spray attachment from The Home Depot than thumbing the end of the hose.

Timing trips a lot of people up. Put it down in the cool of early morning or evening rather than under a midday sun, and water it in well so nothing scorches. It works best as a preventative, applied before the soil dries out hard – not as an emergency rescue once the lawn has already gone crisp. A repeat every four weeks or so through the hot stretch keeps the effect topped up, though it's always worth a glance at the label, since concentrations differ.

Where Wetting Agents Fall Short

(Image credit: Bilal photos / Getty Images)

For all that, a wetting agent isn't a miracle, and it helps to be clear about what it can't do. It can't conjure water from nothing – in a real drought, with no rain and no irrigation, no surfactant on earth keeps grass green. What it does is make the most of the water that's already there. It's also less use on heavy clay soil that holds water well to begin with, where the trouble is usually drainage, not repellency.

And it won't fix bad habits. Mow too short, or water in shallow daily sprinkles, and a wetting agent only papers over the cracks – it works with good lawn care, not in place of it. Bear in mind, too: cool-season grass that browns off in a heatwave is often just going dormant, not dying, and it greens back up once cooler, damper weather returns. Half the time the lawn is fine on its own and better left alone.

Other Ways to Get a Lawn through the Summer

A few habits do as much as any product. Raise the mower height in summer – leaving the grass around 3 inches (7-8cm) long shades the soil and grows deeper roots, both of which help it ride out the heat. Mow less often too, and never take off more than the top third at once. When you do water, water deeply and less frequently, ideally first thing in the morning. A longer, less frequent soak does more good than a daily flick of the hose, and an oscillating lawn sprinkler from Walmart makes that easy to dial in.

Leave the clippings where they fall, as well – a light scatter works like a thin mulch, returning moisture and nutrients to the soil as it breaks down. A sharp mower blade helps too; a clean cut browns far less at the tips than a torn one. Feeding calls for restraint in a heatwave: a fast hit of nitrogen forces soft growth right when the grass is under strain, so reach for a specialized lawn fertilizer for stress like this blend from Amazon.

Whatever the size of your backyard, it's time to take a fresh look at the garden color palette you're using. Using color strategically is a staple of good garden design, making the very most of any plot. The right color combination can completely change your garden, making it less chaotic and more considered. So if your backyard feels cramped or cluttered, listen up! These new color rules are the solution you need.

The new color rules for landscape design are moving away from bold, contrasting tones and shifting towards calmer, more curated palettes that feel very modern. These color-based planting solutions work equally well in sunny and shady gardens, and are particularly useful for making a small garden feel bigger and drawing disparate parts of a bigger backyard together.

So, if you're looking for new ideas to make your garden design feel fresh and intentional, and are interested in ways to maximise your space, these modern designer tricks with color will set you on the right path. They're a great way to achieve a designer-look garden for less, and easy to implement yourself. Which new color rule will work best in your yard?

1. Prioritise Greens

(Image credit: RHS/Neil Hepworth)

We're often guilty of skipping straight past foliage tones to get to flower colors. But get the greens right first, and whatever the rest of your chosen color palette is made up of, your garden will feel calming, immersive, and continuous.

"Green is emerging as the defining color story of 2026," says Kevin Lenhart, landscape architect and design director at Yardzen. "Designers are layering tones from soft sage to deep forest across planting, materials, and furnishings to create depth and cohesion. Pops of color from flowering perennials, containers, and soft furnishings add moments of delight that echo the way color appears in nature: surprising, seasonal, never dominant."

Fabulous foliage was one of the biggest trends at this year's world-famous RHS Chelsea Flower Show. And no wonder, as research shows that exposure to the color green can soothe, heal, and rejuvenate our mental and emotional wellbeing. Make green therapy, also known as ecotherapy or nature therapy, central to your design ideas, and add sense-soothing elements to your garden, and you'll tap into the power of the natural environment to promote wellbeing.

2. Create a Monochromatic Base

(Image credit: RHS/Sarah Cuttle)

A monochromatic color palette uses just one color, but many shades of it so it doesn't become monotonous. For example, if were to choose purple as your base tone, you would use multiple shades from palest lavender to deepest plums. And while it's perfectly possible to create an entire monochromatic color garden using just one tone, most modern designs simply use this rule as a starting point to ensure cohesion.

Designs with a monochromatic base shine in both compact and expansive plots. In an enclosed courtyard garden, the cohesion that using a base tone brings ensures a small area appears uncluttered. In a bigger garden, that base tone ties the various parts of a design together.

Taking advantage of different plant heights, shapes and structures as well as various shades lets you create depth and movement in the planting scheme. You can also use the various shades to create some clever optical illusions, such as planting lighter tones at the edges of borders to make beds seem bigger.

Your paving, fencing and garden furniture should fit into your monochromatic base, or at least have a neutral palette of cool cream and charcoal gray to keep the focus firmly on the plants, rather than opting for bright or warm colors that deflect attention.

3. Color-Drench For Impact

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

With the basics of your color palette established, it's time to build some highlights to create impactful garden moments. Layering up lots of different plants in the same bold, saturated shade by color drenching is a hugely effective way to make a focal point in your planting. It adds a very modern touch to a garden design, too, especially if the chosen tone extends beyond the planting with cushions, throws, and painted details such as accent walls. You don't need to use this rule across your whole garden, but perhaps color drench one central border, then use another rule to echo that tone elsewhere.

How landscape designers use this rule to garden with color in a contemporary space is far from dull. To add depth and interest to this one-color palette, they use a variety of contrasting flower shapes such as spheres and spires, and textures, too. The current color-drenching tone of choice is purple, which offers a wonderful array of textural blooms to choose from.

Essential Color-Drenching Purple Blooms

Tall Spires

East Friesland Salvia

Deep purple flower spikes grow 2ft tall and the sweetly fragrant blooms last all summer long. This cold-hardy plant thrives in Zones 4-8.

Magical Globes

Allium Giganteum

These fragrant purple flowers about the size of a softball bloom from May to June. Hardy in Zones 3-9, they're a great choice for pollinator gardens.

Ruffled petals

Iris 'His Royal Highness'

This tall and elegant purple bearded iris variety comes with the bonus of blooming twice yearly. It's fast-growing, reaches 3ft tall, and thrives in Zones 3-9.

4. Chroma Layering to Create the Illusion of Space

(Image credit: Neil Hepworth/RHS)

Although it might sound like a technical concept, chroma layering is in fact the pretty straightforward practice of using colors of differing intensities to give the illusion of more depth. You can use this with varying colors, placing vibrant tones like orange, yellow and hot pink at the front of a border, and less intense shades like pale blue, white, gray and silver towards the back. You can also use chroma layering with a monochromatic palette, placing bolder, brighter shades at the front and calmer tones at the back.

Whichever, the more intense colors feel closer while the less intense shades appear further away, which has the effect of lengthening the view and making the space feel bigger than it is. As well as making a garden feel more spacious, this also creates a very modern look.

Chroma layering relies heavily on foliage as well as flowers. Darker purple foliage such as Smokebush 'Winecraft Black', available from Nature Hills, can be used at the back of a border, while leaves in a brighter zingy green such as those of Coral Bells 'Lime Marmalade', also available from Nature Hills, are placed towards the front.

5. The 70/30 Harmonious Living Rule

(Image credit: RHS/Josh Kemp-Smith)

The 70/30 harmonious living rule has been big in interior design for a while now, used as a way of curating a more visually appealing space. Now the idea is shifting outside, and the principle works equally well when using color in a garden. The idea is that 70% of your color (plants and other design elements such as painted fences) forms a calming, harmonious backdrop for the remaining 30% of bright, bold color.

Sticking to this ratio means you can still use bright, impactful colors, while ensuring the garden remains calm, cohesive and considered. Using the 70/30 rule is also a great way to make your money go further, placing a few choice accent plants beloved by landscape designers among less expensive foliage plants.

6. Color Echoing For Continuity

(Image credit: Tim Sandall/RHS)

Garden designers love to repeat color, form, or texture through a landscape to provide rhythm and unity. Color is an especially powerful tool when used in different parts of a garden as a linking device to create visual cohesion. This is one of the easiest garden design tips to put into practice, but also one of the most effective. It's known as color echoing, and involves choosing foliage, flowers, hardscaping or garden accessories in colors that mirror each other.

Weaving one color (or all the various shades of it, such as all the tones from deep magenta to palest blush pink) throughout your design leads your eye smoothly through a space, making a garden feel larger and more intentional. In this design, the color of a distinctive purple-leaved beech is picked up and echoed throughout the rest of the garden by dark purple granny bonnets, plum poppies, and Jerusalem Sage 'Amazone'.

Using the same tones in plants that soften hard landscaping is a particularly effective trick that landscape designers use. Another clever pro move is to use foliage for color echoing, as it's a more constant source. Unlike most flowers, foliage holds color all season long, sometimes even year-round. Plus of course, there's such diversity of foliage tone to draw on to play around with color echoing.

7. Color-Matching Tone and Aspect

(Image credit: RHS/Sarah Cuttle)

There's a fine line between cohesion and monotony, so it's important to vary the moments of intensity in any garden design, to create a rhythm. Color matching tone and aspect is one way to achieve this. It involves positioning plants with bright, vibrant, warm colors like orange and yellow in sunny areas, and placing those with cool pastel tones such as white and pale blue in shady areas. You can also use it in conjunction with the monochromatic base rule, using brighter, bolder tones of a color in sunny areas and paler, lighter shades of the same color in shady areas.

This has the effect of creating an airy, open ambience, as the contrasting warm-colored sunny areas will feel further away from the cool-colored shady areas.

Use hardscaping to add to this rule, too. Sun-loving drought-tolerant plants like red hot pokers and gaillardia daisies in a hot, dry area pair well with gravel. In a shady area, a dark mulch will make ferns, hosta and astilbe appear lusher.

8. Color Wheel Asymmetrics For Balance

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

Modern garden design still pairs tones on opposite sides of the color wheel, but does so in a far more intentional, asymmetric fashion. Using opposite colors such as purple and yellow, blue and orange, or violet and lime green to make both shades appear more vibrant is one of the oldest garden design rules in the book. However, employing an equal level of the contrasting colors means they will all compete for your attention, which can feel overwhelming. For still-bright results with a soothing rather than stressful vibe, the new rule dictates we use an uneven split of 80% of one color and 20% of the other.

The idea behind this ratio is that it lets you create visual tension, depth, and highly intentional focal points, without overwhelming the senses.

Red Flowers to Pop Against Green

hummingbird magnet

Red Yucca

Tubular red flowers bloom all season long. This heat-tolerant choice thrives in Zones 5-10. It's a hummingbird magnet and a top pick for pollinators.

Tropical Favorite

The President Canna Bulbs

This canna is a classic with its deep red blooms and lush foliage. It's hardy in Zones 8-11, where it will grow to 48 inches tall, and be a conversation point.

Pollinator Special

Jacob Cline Bee Balm

Brilliant red flowers add vibrant summer color in Zones 4-9 until early fall, and it grows 3-4 ft tall to add a punctuation point to your landscape.

Whatever palette you choose, mix and match these new color rules to create a cohesive garden design that looks like it was created by a professional landscaper. Remember that there are many different ways to add more color to any garden, such as clothing a bare wall with a stunning clematis, or painting your patio pots in a shade to match your planting palette. Or how about sowing some pretty groundcover to keep weeds out of your borders, or adding a color-pop patio table?

July can be a tough month for hydrangeas. They tend to wilt in the heat of midsummer, especially during a heatwave or drought, and on sunny afternoons. The stress can trigger a transition from robust, vibrant spring and early summer growth to fading flowers, drooping leaves, and even burnt, crispy edges.

In July, hydrangea care is all about supporting your shrubs during stressful times. The effort you put in this month will help extend the blooming season and keep your plants healthy and vigorous.

1. Water Your Hydrangeas Deeply

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Inconsistent moisture is one of the biggest and most harmful issues hydrangeas face in the heat of summer. If the weather is hot and dry, institute a routine of deep watering. A good rule of thumb is to water hydrangeas once or twice a week, but I like to stick my finger in the soil to feel for moisture. If the top two inches (5 cm) are dry, it’s time to water. If you aren't sure, then buy a moisture meter, like the Yamron 4-in-1 soil moisture meter on Amazon.

Don’t rely on the wilting of leaves for a sign of water needs, as hydrangeas often wilt in the heat of the day and perk back up overnight.

It’s better to water your hydrangeas deeply and less often than shallowly and every day. Shallow watering encourages shallow, weak roots. Deep watering encourages roots to grow down, where the soil is moist and cool.

Water hydrangeas in the morning to reduce water loss to evaporation during the heat of the day. It’s best to water at the base of each shrub rather than overhead, especially if you water in the evening. Water lingering on leaves overnight encourages fungal infections.

2. Add or Fortify Mulch

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bare, dark soil around your hydrangeas acts like a heat sink. The soil absorbs a lot of the heat from the sun, cooking delicate roots underground and causing moisture to evaporate quickly. Hydrangeas tend to suffer from this heat and dryness in the summer, so take steps to reduce the effect.

The best thing you can do is mulch generously around each shrub. Two to three inches (5–7.5 cm) of mulch does several things to support healthy plants: it regulates the soil temperature, keeps it cooler, holds moisture, and suppresses weeds. All essential for growing those stunning, billowy hydrangea blooms.

Shredded bark, pine straw, and wood chips are all good options. Or, try coconut husk, like this Back to the Roots Organic Expanding Mulch. Pile up the mulch around the base of each hydrangea, but keep a few inches around the stems bare. This reduces the risk of rotting and pests.

3. Remove Faded Flowers, Carefully

(Image credit: PhotoStudioMCD / Getty Images)

Hydrangea flowers often start to look sorry for themselves in the heat of midsummer. This is a good time to do some deadheading to tidy up the plants and help them direct energy away from seeds back into overall health.

When deadheading hydrangeas, snip spent flowers off somewhere between the base of the flowers and the first set of healthy leaves. Do not remove the entire stem. For some types of hydrangeas, trimming off entire stems now can reduce flowering next year. Use sharp, clean precision pruners, like Fiskars' pruning scissors with microtips, to deadhead.

4. Protect Hydrangeas from Intense Heat

(Image credit: Katrin Ray Shumakov / Getty Images)

As long as you provide plenty of water and use mulch thoughtfully, your hydrangeas will survive a July heatwave. However, they are unlikely to thrive during this time. If you can protect them from the intense sun and heat of July afternoons, the flowers will retain more vibrant color and last longer.

The best way to protect hydrangeas from heat is to provide some temporary shade. If your hydrangeas are potted, simply move them into shade for the afternoon. If not, you may have to get creative to rig up some shade. Use a shade cloth, like this one from Cool Arena Store, and support it with stakes. Alternatively, use a garden umbrella, a lightweight trellis you can easily move, or portable plant screens. Just a couple of hours of relief from the hot sun can help flowers last weeks longer.

5. Watch for Summer Pests

(Image credit: Getty Images)

While some plants, like hydrangeas, struggle in the hottest part of the summer, certain pests and diseases are prepared to thrive. In fact, they’ll take advantage of stressed plants and cause worse infestations and infections.

Heat, and particularly humidity, in July can trigger issues with spider mites, aphids, powdery mildew, and leaf spot in hydrangeas. Inspect leaves and stems regularly throughout the month to catch signs of problems early, when they’ll be more manageable.

If you see pests, use a stream of water to remove them or target them with neem oil or an insecticidal soap – Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil comes in a ready-to-use spray. Remove leaves that show signs of spots or mildew and dispose of them. Just a quick, five-minute check once or twice a week is enough to ensure pests and infections on hydrangeas don’t get out of control.

6. Skip the Fertilizer

(Image credit: Alex Manders /. Getty Images)

Lastly, this is a chore you can skip in July. Hydrangeas are likely to be at least a little stressed this month, and adding fertilizer can actually increase stress. Now is the time to focus on maintaining healthy plants, not encouraging additional growth.

Skip the fertilizer and spend your time ensuring hydrangeas have enough water and mulch to stay healthy through the hottest part of the summer.

July Hydrangea Care Essentials

Yamron 4-In-1 Soil Meter to Test Moisture, Temperature, pH, and Light Intensity

Back to the Roots Organic Expanding Coconut Husk Mulch

Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil Fungicide, Insecticide and Miticide Spray

These few, small tasks done in July can mean the difference between faded, sad-looking hydrangeas and healthy plants with vibrant, long-lasting flowers. Hydrangeas are pretty forgiving and resilient, but they’ll reward you for that watchful July care. Instead of just surviving, they’ll thrive through summer.

We look forward to summer sun all winter long, then the heat arrives and we remember the glory of shade. Not to worry! You can create shade and cool your patio with plants. Patio plants properly placed - whether small trees, potted plants with big leaves, or hanging baskets - can step between you and the sun to cool things down. Using leafy trees and lush vines won’t turn summer back into spring, but it can create a fresher, cooler microclimate exactly where you need it.

When you are designing your landscape, it’s always a good idea to install shade trees to cool your home. If you need shade pronto, you’ll want to make a trip to the garden store and bring home ready-made sunshine-blocking houseplants. If you are starting early, some of these are easy to start by rooting cuttings. (Adding a Shark FlexBreeze Misting Fan from Amazon will help complete the patio oasis transformation!)

Here are 5 of our top choices.

5 Plants that Cool Your Patio in Summer

Here at Gardening Know How, we think that any houseplant is a good houseplant. But different plants play different roles in our landscape. If you are looking for plants to provide patio shade, we’ve got you covered. The top plants for cooling a patio will offer height, dense foliage and large leaves and turn scorching sunlight into dappled shade.

Here are the 5 plants we recommend to make your patio a cool outdoor retreat.

1. Elephant Ears

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Think of an elephant’s ears - big and heart-shaped. That’s what the leaves of Colocasia esculenta look like, one of the species of tropical perennial plants termed “elephant ears.” They are grown for the very same huge leaves that gave them their name. The species plant grows emerald green leaves with a matte finish, but - for sunny patios in search of shade - we recommend varieties with dark leaves that can take direct sun.

Two great choices include ‘Black Coral’ with its huge, glossy black, corrugated leaves, growing to 4 feet (1.3m) tall, and ‘Black Magic’, with dusty purple-black leaves and dark petioles. It grows to 6 feet (2m) tall and wide. 3 to 6 feet tall and wide.

Provide your elephant ear plant with fertile, moist soil and don’t neglect regular irrigation. They grow best in warm temperatures and high humidity. They thrive in USDA hardiness zones 8-11.

2. Star Jasmine

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Yes, this plant deserves its “star” designation for its powerful fragrance alone. Then there are the frothy, star-shaped flowers, the vigorous vine, and the plant’s tolerance for sun and shade. Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) grows rapidly to 6 feet (2m) tall and wide if provided with warm temperatures and well-draining soil. And it’s so easy; a member of the “plant and forget” club.

This vine works well for a hot patio since it will do just fine in hot sun and loves to run up a trellis. The star jasmine is a fast-growing vine and, without something to climb, will spread quickly in the landscape, potentially suffocating nearby plants. Its thick, twining vines create a heavy plant screen just where you need it and bloom from spring through September.

3. Crape Myrtle

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Star jasmine will build a leafy wall between your patio and the sun, but if you’d prefer a dappled approach, consider a container tree like crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica). This leafy flowering tree releases water vapor through its long eaves, cooling down the nearby air. But it also offers masses of flowers that create an effective sun screen on a deck or patio. Sited in sun and soil that drains well, it only needs regular watering in summer in USDA zones 6-9.

Crape myrtle is a wonderful plant to cool a patio as it has naturally airy canopy, creating dappled shade without making a space feel dark or blocking out the light.

Crape myrtles are not necessarily small trees. Planted in the garden, they can grow to 25 feet (8m) tall and almost as wide. So choose a cultivar that meets your needs. For example, 'Enduring Summer White' is a dwarf cultivar that won’t get taller than you are yet offers lacy white blooms. Or for something taller and more colorful, go for 'Catawba' with bright purple flowers and fiery fall color, topping out at between 10 and 15 feet (3-5m) tall and wide.

4. Grapevine

(Image credit: Nadtochiy / Getty Images)

Grapevines (Vitis vinifera) are fast climbing vines that prefer a full-sun location. Lots of my friends in French Basque Country have planted grapevines on a pergola or overhead frames in the patio to create a cool seating area below. Grapevines grow fast and can create a dense summer roof of leaves in a season or two. The “ceiling” of grapevine leaves blocks sun in summer, but leaves drop off in winter to allow the sunshine in.

Yes, grapevines are fruit plants that produce grapes. They hang down into the pergola like decorations. The entire set-up gives you the sense that you are sitting in a cool Mediterranean getaway instead of a hot patio.

Plant your grapevine in a full sun area, especially if you hope to ripen the fruit. They grow best in well-draining soil with regular water - at least an inch a week. You’ll need to prune every year to keep growth healthy. They are hardy in USDA zones 6-9.

5. Hostas

(Image credit: Maria Evseyeva / Shutterstock)

Leafy container plants can change the atmosphere of a small garden or patio in summer, turning it into a cooling station. We all know hostas (Hosta spp.) as easy-care plants for our shade gardens, but there are some that have huge green cooling leaves but love the sun. These are the ones to consider to cool your summer patio.

Bring in shade-loving varieties as second tier patio plants, or select sun loving varieties for sunny corners. We particularly like Hosta ‘Big Daddy’, which delights with its massive leaves. They grow to 12 inches (30cm) long in a really cool frosty blue. ‘Big Daddy’ can grow happily in full sun, partial sun or shade. It also works well in containers, The entire plant will get 2 feet (.6m) tall and 3 feet (1m) wide. It offers showy white flowers that appear in late summer and attract pollinators.

Hosta species have individual sun requirements, but they all need moist, well-draining soil. Hosta is hardy to USDA Zones 3-9.

Summers have always been the hottest, driest season, but these days, with a warming climate, temperatures can become extreme. Most of us have seen our gardens dry out during summer, especially during periods of drought and/or high heat and – other than watering in the early morning – there’s not much to do about it.

As your landscape gets toasty and the plants get dry, fire risk increases. And that's not to mention 4th of July fireworks. If you’ve leaned into drought tolerant plants in the backyard, the risk is even higher given the lower moisture content. Some plants that are resilient in extreme weather can be surprisingly flammable, and wise homeowners keep these species far from homes, sheds, fences and other structures during hot, dry summer weather.

7 Garden Plants That Are Surprisingly Flammable

Some plants and trees are notoriously flammable and proud of it. We all know that pine and spruce needles have high resin content, and so do their branches and trunks. Other plants are just as flammable but a little sneakier about it. So don’t feel bad if you’re just hearing about their flammability for the first time.

It’s important to identify these “secretly” flammable plants because you just don’t want them near buildings or fences in hot summer weather. And you definitely want to keep them away from stray fireworks. We’d like to introduce you to seven of them that create quite a blaze if they burn.

1. Wild Lilac (Ceanothus spp.)

(Image credit: Robert Moore / Getty Images)

If you live on the West Coast, you are very likely to have a ceanothus in your backyard. These are among my favorite native shrubs, with the striking indigo flowers that cover the canopy in spring and attract butterflies, bees and other beneficial insects. The leaves are lovely too, small, oval and a dark, blue-green color. But not all ceanothus look alike. The genus includes some 60 shrubs, mostly evergreen, including some that are prostrate, some that mound, and some that are upright to 6 feet (2m) tall.

Another benefit of ceanothus is its drought tolerance; I’ve hardly watered mine since the first year I planted them. But this characteristic also indicates that these native beauties are flammable. In fact, ceanothus leaves are coated with flammable oils and resins. These garden staples started out as chaparral plants and nature built them for fire; the ceanothus seeds require intense heat for germination.

Few of us who love ceonothus are likely to cut our trees down because of an elevated risk of fire. On the other hand, it just makes sense to position it in the back of the garden rather than near the house, garage or shed.

Just in Case

Fire Extinguisher

Fire Blanket 2-Pack

Smoke Detector 2-Pack

2. Blackberry (Rubus armeniacus)

(Image credit: KPixMining / Shutterstock)

Fresh blackberries from the garden are sweet and delicious, but keep in mind that blackberry bushes are so flammable that they can be a fire hazard. You should never plant them close to your home, and if you have them in your berry patch, be sure to keep them manicured.

Left unattended, the canes can shoot up to 15 feet (5m) tall. They stay upright even after they die, creating scaffolding for new growth. The dead canes create a ladder fuel situation where a ground fire can climb up into tree branches. Replace your blackberry canes with red flowering currents, thimbleberry and Pacific crabapple.

3. Common Holly (Ilex aquifolium)

(Image credit: EzumeImages / Getty Images)

Deck the halls alright, but don’t plant common holly near your home. Its dark green, glossy leaves are unmistakable, but they are filled with resin and highly flammable. In a wilder landscape, they can also create a dense understory that can function as a ladder fuel. In addition, common holly leaves produce a flammable vapor when heated, making stands of holly a fire risk.

It’s wise to avoid planting holly near your home and don’t leave large holly piles near any structure. If you want to replace the shrub, consider sword fern, vine maple, or ocean spray.

4. Rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.)

(Image credit: Boy_Anupong / Getty Images)

Many of us have planted rosemary in the garden because it is extremely drought resistant and can take a hot sun. But this plant is among the more flammable of the native plants. Its needle-like leaves are filled with oils and resins - and these remain even when the needles die and dry on the stems. That translates to a plant that is appealing visually, useful in cooking, but highly flammable.

Most gardeners I know keep a shrub or two of rosemary in the herb garden, and this does not seem like a significant fire threat. But resist any temptation to suddenly install an entire bed of rosemary just beside your home.

5. Scotch Broom (Cytisus scoparius)

(Image credit: David Rigg)

Scotch broom is considered a common weed today, but it was brought into America years ago as an ornamental. It is rather pretty, with leaves composed of three oblong leaflets close to the stem, slender stems, and a cloud of bright yellow blossoms from March to June. .

But admire fields of Scotch broom from afar rather than planting up your garden. Dense, mature stands of broom create lots of dead woody debris with a high oil content. This puts them on the “most flammable” list of plants that do not belong anywhere near your home or out buildings. Instead, plant native grasses and beaked hazelnut shrubs.

6. Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

(Image credit: Katya Slavashevich / Getty Images)

My grandmother used to wear lavender perfume, and the whiff of this fragrant flowering plant brings back memories to me. That’s one reason I added it to my herb garden; another is that it is as beautiful as it is fragrant.

But as those slender, flexible stems turn woody as they age and dead plant matter builds up within the plant. This makes your lovely, fragrant lavender plant flammable, very flammable. It is not recommended that you plant lavender near any structure on your property. Keep it more than 5 feet (2m) away from your home to prevent any fire problems.

7. Bamboo (Bambusa vulgaris)

(Image credit: Alamy)

Now this one surprised me. Bamboo flammable? Well it is and it isn’t.

Bamboos are vigorous and dramatic plants with a tropical air. Their graceful swaying canes and forever foliage add structure and movement to the landscape. You can find bamboo that will be happy in almost every growing condition. Some are running and some are climbing but all seem flexible and moist rather than dry and flammable.

Live bamboo canes are made up of cellulose, and include high amounts of silica and water with very few volatile oils. Live bamboo is hard - if not impossible - to ignite, but the same cannot be said of dry bamboo. The dried stems, leaves, and sheaths of bamboo are extremely flammable, and most large stands of bamboo include lots of dead stems and dried debris. All this dry bamboo can explode when burned, so keep any large planting well away from your home.

You don’t need to remove bamboo from your landscape, but you do need to maintain it, pruning out dead wood regularly and removing it from the area. If this seems like too much work, consider planting something else like

Tips to Reduce Fire Risk

(Image credit: Kevin Trimmer / Getty Images)

You can reduce the risk of fire in your home and landscape by selecting plants wisely and maintaining your garden. Here are five tips to keep in mind.

1. Select plants that are fire-resistant, like succulents.
2. Prune back branches that approach your home.
3. Clean up and dispose of yard debris including dry leaves, canes, and branches.
4. Never plant shrubs within 5 feet (2m) of the home.
5. Choose mulch that is not flammable, like organic compost, instead of flammable mulch, like dried leaves or pine needles.
6. Cut out dead plants, shrubs and trees promptly and remove them from the property.

In the world of interior design, trends and influences are constantly changing. Colours have a few years in the spotlight before fading from view, kitchen and bathroom fixtures move through finishes from metal tones to black and back again and the cool tones of once ubiquitous, grey-toned flooring are making way for warmer looking options. But through all these shifts there are some basic rules that guide interior design — here three interior designers share their insights on rules that can — and can’t — be broken.

Danielle Keoghan had rules in mind when she named her Victoria, B.C.-based interior design business, Maverick Designs .

“I’ve never been interested in spaces that are led by trends. I want to design homes that feel like the people who live in them. Rules in design aren’t wrong — the key is to understand what problem they were created to solve. Maverick is a reminder to ask which ones actually apply,” she says.

Keoghan’s first rule is good planning come before shopping.

“It sounds obvious: Get the right plan, understand proportions, flow and function. After that everything is easy and enjoyable. If you skip that step and buy a sectional that is too big, faces the wrong direction and blocks traffic, then you’re asking (an interior designer) to remediate a problem,” she says, adding by that time the options are usually very limited.

Madeleine Sloback, founder and creative director at Madeleine Design Group in Surrey, B.C. says a rule that should never be broken is the often-referenced function before form.

“Before choosing finishes, furniture or decor a space needs to support how you actually live. The best interiors are designed around movement, routines, storage needs, conversation areas and daily habits. A beautiful room that doesn’t function well will never feel right long term,” she says.

Samantha Muller, principal and interior designer at South Surrey, B.C.-based Kleen Design agrees function always comes first. When she is designing interiors for developments such as townhomes and condos, she prioritizes storage and pays attention to dedicated zones that reflect how people live and that maintain traffic flow.

“You don’t want to compromise your traffic flow for esthetics,” she advises.

In some apartments there isn’t space for a full dining room so look for dining solutions that are practical.

“Sometimes this means forgoing a full dining table in smaller apartments in favour of counter stools at the kitchen island or a flexible, fold-out table that can be used when needed then folded away (to maintain traffic flow),” says Muller.

In kitchens space planning is essential to ensure functionality. While there are many aspects to consider in kitchen layouts from the work triangle to allowing space for appliance doors to open, one of the first considerations is the distance between perimeter cabinets and a kitchen island.

Muller says rules often need to bend in smaller spaces.

“In townhomes sometimes that distance is as short as 36 inches. In a larger home I prefer 40 inches. Sometimes you just have to accept that a space can’t accommodate an island, and you have to take it out and redraw the plans,” she says.

Muller’s superpower is an instinctive understanding of scale, one of the most important rules in the playbook.

“As a visual thinker one of my strongest points is scale,” she says. “Understand your furniture sizes, how much space you need to walk around the space. Not using oversized furniture if your space isn’t large — or has high ceilings — so it doesn’t overwhelm the space,” she says pointing out that undersized furniture can make a room feel unfinished.

Muller says balance is inseparable from scale and can be achieved through cohesive furniture groupings and intentionally layered textures, such as mixing velvets and cottons and varying pillow textures to create harmony.

For art, she advocates “less is more,” recommending selective statement pieces, visual pauses on some walls and simple combinations like one artwork and one mirror in a room, noting that more than half of her own art remains un-hung after a recent move.

“You don’t have to hang every piece you own, says Muller.

For Keoghan lighting is a non-negotiable design priority: layered, dimmable, well-placed lighting can make even rule-breaking interiors feel right, whereas rooms with only recessed overhead lights on one switch feel uncomfortable, despite good furnishings, she says.

Sloback agrees and says lighting should come from multiple sources.

“Relying on one overhead light or one type of light source flattens a room. The most inviting spaces layer ambient, task and accent lighting. Combine ceiling fixtures, lamps, sconces, under-cabinet lighting and natural light to create warmth, depth and flexibility throughout the day,” she says.

A rule that is often broken is making everything match, says Sloback.

“Perfectly matched interiors can make a space feel overly staged. Mixing materials, eras, textures and finishes often creates a more layered, collected and personal feel, as long as a sense of continuity ties everything together, such as flooring materials, hardware finishes and trim,” she adds

One of the rules Keoghan breaks is the idea that every room needs a focal point or feature wall.

“I prefer balanced spaces that draw you in quietly rather than relying on a single overperforming element,” she says.

She also disputes the rule that all furniture legs must sit on an area rug, arguing that front legs only layouts often work better, with rug sizing driven by proportion and the need to anchor groupings while allowing floor to show. Common mistakes include buying readily available but too small sizes like a five-by-seven-foot instead of larger, more appropriate rugs.

Keoghan also has opinions on the often-quoted guidance that says dark colours make a room feel smaller.

“That’s true, until it’s not,” she says.

“Colour washing (or colour drenching) is a great strategy for small or awkward rooms,” she says.

Painting walls, trim, doors and ceilings the same colour and introducing subtle variation through the finish of the paint can visually expand spaces, soften edges and create immersive atmospheres, says Keoghan.

She recently used this technique in a small den in a condo.

“We colour washed it in charcoal. We had a lacquer finish for the built-in millwork, an eggshell finish on the walls and the trim in a satin finish. So there was subtle variation between the colours just from a finish standpoint,” she says, adding that a cream area rug and seating in an off-white shade created a “gorgeous” space that felt larger.

It seems the old adage that rules are made to be broken applies when bending or adjusting them is necessary to adapt to specific situations. Maybe Pablo Picasso said it best: “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.”

Related

• A trio of connected cabins create a multi-generational forested escape on Savary Island
• More than just a feature wall, gradient painting injects unique personality into a room

Roses are known for their graceful beauty and intoxicating aroma. Unfortunately, they are also known for their painful thorns. But did you know that not all roses have thorns? Whether you want climbers, shrubs and miniature beauties, these pain-free roses are ideal for patios, walkways, and other growing spaces where there is a chance people might brush against them.

You can easily grow roses that don’t lash out and enjoy months of gorgeous, fragrant blooms without ever having to worry about a wayward nip. From dramatic vertical climbers that can soften a bare wall to compact beauties tailored for tight patio containers, these varieties prove you don’t have to sacrifice classic rose beauty or rich fragrance just to keep your garden safe and snag-free.

To help you find the best options for your yard, here are 7 outstanding, virtually thornless varieties that cover all the bases for hybrid, climbing, shrub and tea roses, in a range of tones. Each offers smooth, touchable canes and balances disease resistance, reliable hardiness, and standout color.

The Best (Nearly) Thorn-Free Roses

Roses are known for their thorns, but thanks to centuries of breeding, you can find many varieties that are smooth or mostly smooth. Not only are thorn-free roses a real option, but they’re also surprisingly varied. You can choose from ramblers and climbers, traditional shrub types, small patio varieties, and low groundcovers. Make the right choice for your space based on type and mature size.

As you choose a thornless rose, also consider your climate and growing conditions. The rose should fall within your USDA hardiness zone, match the sunlight you have available, and have good disease resistance. It’s also a good idea to consider your soil condition before you start planting. These roses need rich, loamy soil that holds nutrients, but crumbles easily in your hand. Most importantly, they require excellent drainage. Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral pH level (ideally between 6-6.5) to help your plants easily absorb the food they need to thrive.

(Image credit: Masako Ishida / Getty Images)

A good diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon can help you quickly check moisture, pH, and nutrient levels so you can amend your planting hole as necessary with organic compost, coarse sand, or horticultural grit. Use this list as a starting point for finding your perfect, thornless roses in any color, growth type, and size. Here are some of our favorite options for smooth, pain-free roses of all types.

1. ‘Madame Alfred Carrière'

(Image credit: Mauren Winter / Alamy)

This classic climbing rose variety was first introduced in 1875. It’s suitable for zones 5 through 11 and is a repeat bloomer, rewarding good care with season-long creamy white flowers with an intoxicating scent. ‘Madam Alfred Carrière’ is particularly known for its smooth, thornless canes, which can grow 15-20 feet (4.6-6m) long. As a showy climber, this is a great option where you have a lot of vertical space. Grow it along pergolas, fences, arbors, or even walls. It needs some support and training each year to develop a sturdy hold. Deadhead flowers to encourage repeat blooms.

Plant it in a location that receives a minimum of 4-6 hours of daily sunlight. A bit of morning sun maximizes its magnificent flush. It requires deep, well-draining soil enriched with organic compost, and a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Add a thick mulch midsummer to conserve moisture. Fan the canes out horizontally along your trellis or arbor rather than letting them grow straight up. This forces the plant to unlock lateral buds, rewarding you with a dense wall of blossoms from top to bottom. For the same thornless, vigorous climbing habit, you can buy ‘Peggy Martin’ live plants from Amazon which swap the pale blush for rich pink clusters.

2. ‘Zephirine Drouhin’

(Image credit: Cathy Dewitt / Alamy)

This is another thornless climber to consider if you have a shady spot with vertical space. Unlike most roses, ‘Zephirine Drouhin’ tolerates partial shade. A spot with morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Like our first rose choice, this bourbon climber blooms all season long after a heavy spring flush. The flowers are a rich cherry pink and have an intense aroma. ‘Zephirine Drouhin’ thrives in zones 5-10 and reaches 15 feet (6m) tall. This variety does have some susceptibility to fungal infections, so prune it to improve airflow and only water at the base.

Aim for rich, fertile soil that retains moisture but drains well, boasting an ideal pH between 6-6.5. It’s ideal for north- or east-facing walls, where other varieties languish. Add a generous layer of organic compost mulch to keep the roots cool, coupled with a monthly feeding of a phosphorus-rich rose food through midsummer to fuel its repeat-blooming cycle. Deadhead promptly through July and August to ensure a steady stream of gorgeous pink petals right up until fall. You can buy Green Promise Farms 'Zephirine Drouhin' from Amazon.

3. ‘Sweet Chariot’

(Image credit: Feifei Cui Paoluzzo / Getty Images)

‘Sweet Chariot’ is a miniature shrub rose developed in the 1980s, with double pink flowers and a rich fragrance. This rose is compact in size, but also has a trailing growth habit, making it perfect for containers on patios and even hanging baskets. ‘Sweet Chariot’ grows well in zones 5-9, but prefers full sun (at least 6 hours daily). If grown in containers, it will need to be watered frequently, but be sure the soil drains very well. Deadhead the flower clusters as they fade to keep blooms coming all summer long.

This patio-friendly perennial needs a highly fertile, lightweight potting mix blended with perlite or coarse sand to guarantee rapid drainage. Water daily during heatwaves, alongside a bi-weekly application of a diluted liquid seaweed or fish emulsion fertilizer. Choose a container with generous drainage holes at the base and raise it slightly off the ground on pot feet to prevent stagnant water from pooling. Keep a close eye out for spider mites, which frequently target container-grown patio roses in dry, hot weather, and give the foliage a gentle misting with water in the early morning to deter them. For a compact alternative that you can source online, try ‘Petite Knock Out’ from Amazon which also has a low prickle count.

4. ‘Mary Delany’

(Image credit: Sergey Kalyakin / Alamy)

Most classic shrub roses are very thorny. This exception (previously known as ‘Mortimer Sackler’) is a large shrub rose that grows up to 12 feet (3.7m) tall. ‘Mary Delany’ is known for its pretty, double pink flowers, fruity scent, and nearly smooth canes. Although it’s a shrub, you can train this variety to grow as a climber. It has strong disease resistance and continuous blooms that keep going through to fall. Just deadhead regularly to keep flowers coming. ‘Mary Delany’ is hardy in zones 5-9, and prefers full sun or a little shade. Give your rose regular deep watering.

Provide it with a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight. While it thrives in full sun, it is famously capable of handling a bit of dappled afternoon shade without losing its blooming power. It demands a deep bed of rich, loamy soil, with a neutral pH that has been heavily amended with organic matter to ensure good drainage. Add a balanced fertilizer right after the heavy spring flush and maintain a thick 3-inch (8cm) layer of bark mulch around the root zone to lock in moisture. Prune by about one-third in late winter to maintain a tidy, bushy shrub form if you aren't growing it vertically. You can buy ‘Mary Delany’ at Otto and Sons Nursery online.

5. ‘Smooth Angel’

(Image credit: Avalon.red / Alamy)

Hybrid tea rose types are known for their strong aromas and large flowers that grow singly on stems, making them ideal for cutting. ‘Smooth Angel’ is from Harvey Davidson, and was developed in the 1980s to be 95% thorn-free. The large flowers on this variety are a light peachy-cream color and have a heavy fragrance. Give ‘Smooth Angel’ a spot in full sun with rich soil that drains very well, and you’ll be able to enjoy smooth, thorn-free flowers in a few distinct flushes throughout the season. It’s an appropriate rose for zones 5-10 and will grow up to two feet (0.6m) tall.

This rose requires a fertile, loamy soil with an optimal pH between 6.0 and 6.5, heavily incorporated with aged organic compost. Give this rose a deep soaking at the root zone once a week and a balanced liquid rose fertilizer immediately after its initial flush to jumpstart the next wave of buds. Avoid planting it in tight, overcrowded spaces or heavy clay, as poor air circulation and stagnant water will quickly invite black spot. Otherwise, this is a hardy beauty. As a peachy alternate that might be easier to track down online, try Heirloom Roses ‘Just Joey’ from Amazon. It has very widely spaced thorns, making it smooth and easy to manage.

6. ‘Iceberg’

(Image credit: Kottapsm / Alamy)

Floribunda roses give you abundant clusters of flowers that bloom repeatedly through the growing season. ‘Iceberg’ floribundas were introduced in the 1950s, and they have good disease resistance, they grow vigorously, and they are nearly thornless. The original ‘Iceberg’ has white blooms, but you can now find this desirable variety in a rainbow of colors, including blush pink, bright pink, burgundy red, and yellow. ‘Iceberg’ grows up to 4 feet (1.2m) tall with a shrub form. It grows well in zones 5-9 and needs full sun for the most prolific blooms.

Plant this rose in a prominent location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. ‘Iceberg’ thrives in a well-draining, fertile loam with a slightly acidic to neutral pH between 6-6.5. Water deeply every week, and give it a mid-season feeding with a high-potassium fertilizer to keep the blooms coming. Prune back by about one-third in late winter to maintain its tidy 4-foot (1.2m) shape. Finally, shear off entire spent flower clusters rather than individual stems after each heavy flush, which triggers an immediate, explosive repeat performance that lasts straight until the first hard frost. You can buy Heirloom Roses Iceberg Floribunda from Amazon.

7. ‘Cambridgeshire’

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

This David Austin variety isn’t totally thornless, but it has very few spines on its short canes. It’s rare for a groundcover rose to be so smooth, so if you’re looking for a pain-free, low-growing rose, this is the one for you. It’s perfect for sunny areas along pathways. ‘Cambridgeshire’ grows densely and spreads widely while remaining no more than about 18 inches (50cm) tall. It is a repeat bloomer, and the flowers are colorful, transitioning through gold, red, dark pink and lighter pink. It thrives in zones 5-10 in full sun and rich soil drains well. Deadhead to get continuous flowers through the growing season.

‘Cambridgeshire’ needs a highly crumbly, well-draining soil, maintaining an ideal pH of 6-6.5 to support its continuous nutrient intake. Apply a fresh, 2-inch (5cm) layer of hardwood mulch around the base right after planting. Avoid planting it in low-lying depressions or heavy clay where standing water accumulates. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but give the entire patch a light trim with hedge shears in late winter to rejuvenate the plant, prompting an explosive, uniform blanket of colorful blooms. If you can’t find 'Cambridgeshire', try 'Sweet Drift' Groundcover Rose from Walmart which serves up a carpet of bubblegum pink blooms on virtually thornless stems.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

On a hot day, bees still need to stay busy in the garden. But they get thirsty doing it. A honeybee colony needs a steady supply of water right through summer, and not only for drinking – they use it to cool the hive and to thin out food for the brood. The catch is that the shallow puddles and damp ground bees usually sip from tend to dry up the moment a heatwave settles in.

You can help them with a quick DIY project. A pollinator water station is barely a project at all – at its simplest, it's a shallow dish with a few stones in it, filled with fresh water and topped up as it drops. You can throw one together in minutes from odds and ends already around the house, and it makes a real difference to the bees out working your flowers.

Why Give Bees Water in Summer?

Bees need water for more than a quick drink. On a hot day, a honeybee colony collects water and spreads it through the hive, then fans it with their wings so the evaporation pulls the temperature down. It's basically air conditioning, run on water. They also use the water to soften stored honey and mix food for the developing brood. When the mercury climbs, demand shoots up, and foraging bees spend real effort tracking water down.

Here's the problem, though: bees can't swim. They're light enough that the surface tension of an open bowl or birdbath can trap them. One badly judged landing on deep, smooth water and they don't get back out. A watering station gets around that by keeping the water shallow and giving them solid footing to stand, allowing them to drink safely.

(Image credit: Bee-cups.com)What You'll Need

You don't need much to make your bee watering station:

• A shallow, wide container. Terracotta plant saucers are ideal, or even an old pie dish.
• Pebbles or glass marbles to break the surface
• A few wine corks, which float and double as landing rafts.

The Saucer

Vensovo 6-Inch Terracotta Plant Saucers

As well as classic terracotta, this six-pack of saucers comes in eight colors so you can choose one to suit your garden.

The Pebbles

Fantian 1lb Flat Glass Pebbles

These flat glass pebbles allow bees to access the water without drowning. Their bright colors also make an attractive design element.

The Corks

Impnit 20-Pack Straight Wine Corks

Toss a few corks into your water station. Even if your saucer is overflowing, they'll keep the bees afloat.

How to Make Your Bee Watering Station

None of this is complicated. Five minutes, maybe less, and you've got a working bee bath.

1. Start with a Low Dish

Set your container somewhere level. Depth is the thing that matters – an inch or two (2–5 cm) of water is plenty, since bees only need to reach the edge of it, not wade in. A saucer or low bowl beats anything deep with steep sides.

2. Add the Landing Spots

Fill the dish with pebbles, stones, or marbles until they mound up above where the waterline will sit. The idea is to leave plenty of dry, grippy surface for bees to stand on. Even a handful of clean gravel from the garden will work.

(Image credit: Getty Images)3. Fill it Up

Pour in fresh water until it pools around the stones but leaves their tops poking out, so bees land on the dry stone and sip from the shallow edge. Check it daily in hot weather; a dish this size can evaporate down to nothing by late afternoon, and the landing spots only work while they're above water.

Shop Bee Water Stations

If DIY isn't your thing, these bee drinking stations look great and come ready to fill.

Ceramic Bee Cups – 5 Pack

These original Bee Cups have inspired many imitations. Available in a range of pretty colors, they were designed by a scientist-turned-ceramicist to attract bees and keep them safe.

Acostop Bee Feeder With Vivid Sunflower Design

This pretty hanging bee bath comes with 15 pebbles so it's ready to just hang and fill. It's anti-rust and weather resistant, so will last for years to come.

Teenyyou Metal Bee Watering Cups – 6 Pack

With removable stakes, these metal bee cups will develop a charming patina as they weather.

Keeping the Water Clean and safe

Standing water and summer heat mean mosquitoes, so refresh the dish every couple of days rather than just topping it off – that breaks the breeding cycle before larvae get going. Give the stones a rinse when algae starts to film them over, and skip the soap, since any residue does more harm than the grime did. Rainwater is fine, and so is tap water; the source doesn't matter much.

One thing to leave out: sugar or honey in the water. It sounds helpful, but sugar water pulls in wasps and can spread disease between hives. Honey from an unknown source may carry pathogens that hurt the very bees you're trying to help. Plain water is what they're after. If wasps or other insects start crowding in anyway, shifting the dish a few feet (1 m) usually settles things down.

(Image credit: Schankz / Shutterstock)Where to Position Your Bee Bath

Position matters more than you'd think. Set the station near flowers the bees already visit, so it's close to where they're working, and somewhere with a bit of afternoon shade so the water doesn't turn to bath temperature or evaporate by noon. A little morning sun helps them find it. Out of the wind is better too – a spot tucked beside a wall or a clump of planting gives some shelter.

Once bees find a reliable source, they come back to it and bring others, so keep the station in the same place and don't let it run dry mid-summer. Raised up on a low table or wall, it stays cleaner and out of reach of pets.

Change the water regularly, and you'll have happy bees who will help your garden stay healthy and blooming.

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

1028 Cambie St., Vancouver

Type: Two-bedroom, two-bathroom townhouse

Size: 1,315 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,208,000

Listed for: $1,388,800

Sold for: $1,240,000

Sold on: May 8

Days on market in this listing: 94

Listing agent: Karim Virani at Virani Real Estate Advisors

Buyers agent: Cassandra Ariken PREC at Royal LePage Elite West

The big sell: This two-bedroom, three-level townhome forms part of Concord Pacific’s Marina Pointe development that comprises condominiums and townhouses with shared amenities including an indoor swimming pool, a sauna/steam room, a fitness centre, squash court, and 24-hour concierge services. It has a private entry off Cambie Street and comes extensively renovated with engineered hardwood floors throughout, air conditioning, a feature stone wall with an inset electric fireplace, and a completely redesigned kitchen with premium finishings, quartz countertops, and high-end appliances. The primary reception rooms are on the main level, with both bedrooms upstairs alongside a home office. An added convenience is a private two-car garage with direct access into the home, as well as a large storage space. The home’s monthly maintenance fee is $1,141.18, and the strata permits pets and rentals — both with restrictions.

2 — 3393 Victoria Dr., Vancouver

Type: Three-bedroom, two-bathroom half duplex

Size: 983 square feet

B.C. Assessment: N/A

Listed for: $999,000

Sold for: $999,000

Sold on: April 12

Days on market in this listing: Six

Listing agent: Jessica Chen PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Ren Yoshima at Oakwyn Realty

The big sell: The boutique complex of Mira at Trout Lake has recently been completed with four duplex homes that offer two- or three-level layouts, private patios, and a smooth indoor/outdoor flow through expansive sliding doors. This particular home sold for the full price in six days. It is a two-storey west-facing half duplex with herringbone wood floors on the main level, wide-plank oak floors upstairs, fluted limestone feature walls, overheight ceilings, arched passageways, and custom millwork. The kitchen shines with integrated Smeg appliances including a gas cooker, a pot filler, deep Blanco sinks, and quartz surfaces. The bathrooms have been elegantly finished with floating vanities, large format tiles, and a frameless glass shower. There is air conditioning for summertime comfort, insuite ventilation, acoustic windows, built-in speakers, a security system, and the 2-5-10 new home warranty.

12680 Ansell St., Maple Ridge

Type: Four-bedroom, four-bathroom detached

Size: 3,580 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,427,000

Listed for: $2,350,000

Sold for: $2,205,000

Sold on: March 30

Days on market in this listing: One

Listing agent: Sonja Jones at ReMax Lifestyles Realty

Buyers agent: Shannon Drummond PREC at Royal LePage Elite West

The big sell: This architecturally-designed four-level home was built in a West Coast contemporary style with natural elements that reflect the beauty of the surrounding environment with rock accents, wood-clad vaulted ceilings, exposed beams, a spiral staircase, wood-surround windows, and open living spaces that allow for abundant natural light while highlighting the mountain, forest and ravine views. The home was constructed in 1976 within Maple Ridge’s Academy Park and sits on two acres of — according to the listing agent — potentially subdividable forested land complete with old-growth cedar and fir trees. It was renovated in 2020 and displays a modern kitchen with white gloss cabinets and a tiled backsplash, four stylish bathrooms, and laundry on all levels. The property was on the market for just a day before being snapped up.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

Want more expert mortgage info? Robert McLister shares Canada’s best national insured and uninsured mortgage rates, updated daily.Related

• Sold (Bought): Ladner waterfront property boasts private boat dock, rooftop deck
• Sold (Bought): East Vancouver house sells for more than $300K over asking

When Joanna Gaines posts anything to Instagram (which is actually quite often), I have to immediately stop scrolling and see if I can do whatever she’s doing in my own house or garden. This time, she posted a video of summer scenes from her farmhouse in Waco, Texas, that featured horses galloping through fields, an adorable summer swing, and best of all, a view of her “Rose Shed,” of which we got a peek back in January 2024.

Naturally, there were climbing roses on the small roof outside, and there was something about the combination of romantic pink blooms, architecture, and sunlight that made me stop and stare at my own bare fence and feel personally victimized. Climbing roses are one of the most achievable upgrades in your garden, but you have to know what you’re doing. Fortunately, a couple of experts helped me out.

Joanna Gaines climbing roses

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Use Your Vertical Space

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Most of the time, people think of gardens as horizontal: soil, beds, borders, etc., all at ground level. But climbing roses turn this logic on its head.

Marta Pawlik, Co-Founder and Director of Laik, which manages over 50 luxury vacation properties, has seen the difference firsthand. She says, “Most people only plant to the floor level and do not utilize any of the vertical space above them. When one of my clients decided to grow a single 'Zephirine Drouhin' up her bare stone archway, there was a dramatic increase in the number of bookings for that property. The vertical space is what it's all about!"

An arch, a pergola, a plain garden wall; all of these are just waiting for a climbing rose to make them feel complete.

Choose the Right Variety

(Image credit: Olena Malik / Getty Images)

It’s often a misconception that all climbing roses are created equal, and variety choice matters more than most people realize. Pawlik tells me she has a firm favorite: Rosa “Gertrude Jekyll” is the first climbing rose I always recommend. I’ve had a number of clients in the Lake District try three different climbing roses over five years (with little success in regards to photography) to be able to justify the asking price per week. By growing a single “Gertrude Jekyll” over her pergola, her listing was booked solid before the end of February. The flower is large, the fragrance is incredible, and the deep pink coloration is worth a lot in sunlight.

The 'Gertrude Jekyll' climbing rose, the variety Marta Pawlik swears by, produces large, bright pink rosettes with one of the strongest old rose fragrances of any English variety, and comes with a five-year guarantee straight from the breeder, David Austin.

For something thornless and forgiving (especially useful on archways where people actually walk through), 'Zephirine Drouhin' is a classic.

Gertrude Jekyll

David Austin® Gertrude Jekyll® Rose

Zephirine Drouhin

Zephirine Drouhin Climbing Rose

Lavender Crush

Lavender Crush Climbing Rose

Don't Neglect What Goes Underneath

(Image credit: Jorgeantonio / Getty Images)

A climbing rose on its own can look a little leggy at the base. Fortunately, the fix is simple: companion planting. Pawlik recommends French lavender beneath your rose as it covers the bare stems, smells incredible, and the purple-pink color combination photographs beautifully. Add alliums in the middle of the garden, and suddenly the whole space will look well-planned rather than accidental.

Thery Jean Christophe, founder of Musa Art Gallery, agrees on the layering approach: "I would pair them with softer companion plants like lavender, catmint, foxgloves, or herbs so the garden feels layered but not chaotic."

Plant a couple of these Hidcote Blue lavender plants (available on Amazon) at the base of your climbing rose. The deep purple blooms and silvery foliage are the companion for pink roses; they'll cover any bare stems, and the fragrance combination is frankly unfair to your neighbors.

Don't Cheap Out on the Plant

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This is where most people go wrong, and Pawlik is refreshingly blunt about it, saying, "I once planted a low-grade bare root rose that took the entire summer to explain to the owner why her rose arch looked like a twig with big aspirations."

The advice? Buy a grade-three plant, put it in the ground in autumn, and train every stem to grow horizontally from the start. This is where the blooms really come from; not the vertical stems shooting upward, but the horizontal ones fanning out.

Fake It While You Wait

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Climbing roses take time to establish, and for some of us, patience isn't always in plentiful supply. Jean Christophe has a practical workaround, telling me, "For homeowners who want the abundant look faster, I'd suggest combining climbing roses with trellises, containers, and fast-growing companion plants while the roses mature. That way the space feels romantic early on, but still has a long-term design foundation." To me it looks as if you’re dressing the set while the main act is busy getting ready.

The SCENDOR garden arch (available on Amazon) is a sturdy, iron structure standing nearly 8.2 feet tall with a double-layer design built to handle the real weight of a mature climbing rose. So, it’s not just for looks, but for the long haul!

While it may seem like it, Joanna Gaines’ aesthetic isn’t magic; it’s just a thoughtful use of height, the right plant, and the right spot (though the patience part seems like magic to me).

From zodiac signs to birth flowers, there are plenty of ways people like to assign meaning to the month they were born. But here’s a slightly more unexpected version: your birth month farm animal.

Yes, over the years, we’ve seen everything from birth month trees and birth month birds to bugs, trees, and even so-called “power animals” tied to different times of year. There’s something oddly comforting about it all, as it offers up a sense that the natural world around us might reflect something back about who we are.

Honestly? It often feels a source of comfort in a world that feels increasingly fast-paced and digital, serving as a reminder of a slower, more connected way of living. One that feels especially appealing as more people turn their attention to growing food at home, self-sufficiency, and getting back in touch with where things come from.

All 12 Birth Month Farm Animals

So, which birth month farm animal are you? Well, whether you’re a loyal collie, an independent barn cat, or a determined horse, each month has a barnyard counterpart said to reflect certain personality traits.

Time to find out, then, whether your farmyard alter ego feels strangely accurate or not...

January – Horse

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Strong-willed, ambitious and determined, January babies are often seen as natural leaders. And, just like a free-spirited horse, they’re independent, focused, and rarely back down from a challenge.

In fact, they prefer forging their own path and moving at their own pace. No bad thing, as I'm sure you will agree.

Shop Horse-Friendly Flowers:

Clovers Garden Chamomile Herb Plants

HOME GROWN Bachelor Button Flower Seeds

Nature Hills Nursery Strawberry Seduction™ Yarrow

February – Goat

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Creative, curious and, yes, a little unconventional, February babies are the goats of the barnyard. In fact, just like their birth month farm animal, they’re adventurous thinkers who aren’t afraid to take the less obvious route, often surprising others with their originality.

Try paying homage to yours with this stunning Goat Willow (Pussy Willow) from Nature Hills.

March – Sheep

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Do people often refer to you as gentle, compassionate and calm? Born in March? That's the answer!

Yes, March personalities are represented by sheep. Which, sure, sounds bad on paper until you remember that these birth month farm animals tend to be thoughtful, peace-loving, and happiest in stable, harmonious environments where everyone gets along.

Honestly, the best way to be more sheep, then, is to consider how you might make your garden better for everyone... especially pollinators.

Shop Pollinator-Friendly Plants:

Nature Hills Nursery Butterfly Weed Plant

Nature Hills Nursery Common Milkweed

Nature Hills Nursery Swamp Milkweed Flower

April – Rooster

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Cock-a-doodle-what? Yes, April-born people share traits with roosters. They’re outgoing, self-assured and often the ones setting the tone in any group they’re part of. Which means, much like their birth month farm animal, they are those sorts of people who are confident, expressive and full of presence. And, quite possibly, earlybirds.

There are a number of cover crops that roosters and chickens love, including:

• Alfalfa
• Clover
• Annual rye
• Kale
• Cowpeas
• Rabe
• New Zealand clover
• Turnips
• Mustard
• Buckwheat
• Grain grasses

May – Pig

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Look, I get it. Nobody wants to be told that their birth month farm animal is a pig (especially if they have ever read Animal Farm), but here's the thing. Pigs are sociable, warm and fun-loving. They are undeniably cute. And May personalities are like pigs in the best possible way: intelligent, adaptable, and happiest when surrounded by good company and comfort.

Be more pig, then, and get your garden set up for al fresco parties, stat.

Shop Solar Lighting:

soonanier Solar Fence Lights

XMCOSY+ Solar Pathway Lights

Linkind Smart Solar Spot Lights

June – Chicken

(Image credit: Martin Helgemeir / Shutterstock)

Nurturing, talkative and emotionally attuned, people born under this birth month farm animal are protective of those they love, tend to thrive in community, and always bring people together in a warm, grounded way.

Love chickens? Find out how to keep and care for backyard chickens, then, and make a whole new world of feathered friends in the process.

July – Cow

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Sometimes, people (mean people, silly people!) use the word cow as an insult. How, though, could it ever be a bad thing to be compared to these steady, loyal and deeply dependable animals?

July babies are incredibly lucky to reflect the calm strength of cows. Especially as it means that, just like their birth month farm animals, they are nurturing by nature and often the emotional anchor in their friendships and family life.

August – Goose

(Image credit: Getty Images)

I absolutely love geese, so I'm a little jealous that August babies everywhere get to call this honking bird their birth month farm animal!

Protective, courageous and fiercely loyal, geese aren't afraid to stand their ground, and neither are those born at this time of year. In fact, when it comes to protecting the people they love, they are unstoppable, thus making them the dependable friend or family member others know they can count on.

Why not treat your inner goose to a mini pond?

elegantly lit

Latitude Run® Bubbler Resin Fountain

copper design

Pondo Stainless Steel Water Bowl

cool concrete

August Grove® Evita Concrete Pebble Fountain

September – Donkey

(Image credit: Getty Images)

My husband was deeply disappointed to learn that, as a September baby, the not-so-humble donkey is his birth month farm animal. I say, though, that he shouldn't be (ha!) such a donkey about it. After all, these hoofed cuties are practical, resilient and quietly strong.

Those born under their influence tend to be dependable problem-solvers, the kind who, even if they are underestimated at first, rarely disappoint. Mind you, they can be stubborn, too!

October – Barn Cat

(Image credit: Getty Images)

I hold my hands up and confess that I am an October baby, so I am especially interested in this birth month farm animal. And, while I can't say for sure that I'm charming (here's hoping) I do believe that, much like the ever-independent and observant barn cat, I value my freedom and trust my instincts.

October-born personalities are also said to have a mysterious, magnetic quality to them, which makes sense. Cats are pure mystery, after all! Try planting these plants beloved by cats, then, and see how your inner barn cat responds.

November – Highland Cow

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Highland cows are basically the stars of the farmyard. You don’t rush them, you don’t rattle them, and you certainly don’t tell them to hurry up, because they’re already exactly where they need to be.

Calm, steady and emotionally grounded, November-born people share that same energy. They have a quiet strength that doesn’t need to announce itself, and a reassuring presence that makes other people feel instantly more at ease. Even in chaos, they tend to stay unshaken, observing everything with a kind of slow, knowing calm.

Honor yours by planting some true Scotch heather, stat!

December – Collie

Collies are the overachievers of the farmyard: always alert, always moving, and somehow always three steps ahead of everyone else.

December babies share that same energetic, intelligent and endlessly curious spark. They like having a purpose, something to solve, somewhere to go. Give them a challenge and they’ll light up; give them routine with no direction and they’ll start inventing their own.

They’re quick thinkers, enthusiastic learners, and the sort of people who don’t just follow instructions: they improve them, streamline them, and somehow make them better. Maybe, then, you should try and grow a dog garden for you and your inner pooch?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Whether you see yourself clearly in your birth month farm animal or not, it’s all part of the fun. But don’t be surprised if, from now on, you find yourself quietly sharing a moment with with your barnyard alter ego the next time you see it lurking in a field or paddock.

Meaningful eye contact with a barn cat, then? Next on my list of things to do.

We’re seeing a huge trend in container ponds this heatwave summer, and no wonder! Floating solar fountains have made it so cheap and easy to create a stylish water feature that brings cooling sound and movement to our too-hot gardens. And now, next-gen solar fountains lit with LEDs are allowing us to take DIY microponds to the next level, with illuminated cascades of water that will pretty-up any patio, looking beautiful at night as well as bringing a cooling soundscape by day.

Making your own micropond with a watertight container and floating fountain is so quick to do, yet the soundscape and soothing water movement can transform a garden, creating a focus to make small gardens feel bigger or adding a pleasing detail to a larger backyard. As container garden ideas go, it’s a winner for sure! Water features you can install yourself without calling in a plumber or electrician are so cost-effective, too. And there are lots of clever ways to get creative with a cheap floating solar fountain, so you can fashion a unique feature bespoke to your garden style.

Not all LED solar fountains are created equal, though, so it’s good to understand a few basics before you start to DIY your cooling cascade of water. Luckily, everything you need to know to get a great result is right here, so you can get cracking and DIY an illuminated water feature this weekend. I've included plenty of product links so you know exactly what I'm talking about, but do support your local retailers too. Here’s exactly what to do, if you want to make a stunning water feature this weekend…

1. Choose a Watertight Container

Any container will work for a DIY water feature, as long as it’s wide enough to contain most of the fountain splashes, though obviously the bigger it is, the less frequently you’ll have to top it up. Containers purpose-made for a garden micropond are often expensive, but there are plenty of more budget-friendly options to try.

Pots intended for succulents don’t usually have a drainage hole, and a wide bowl planter such as this from Amazon makes a stylish alternative at a fraction of the price. It's also worth looking at planters intended for both indoor and outdoor use such as this well-priced half-barrel from Lowes, as they often don't have drainage holes either.

If you’ve already got an old plastic, resin or metal planter then it’s a quick and easy job to seal the drainage hole with a marine silicone sealant like this from Amazon. The same goes for repairing patches of damage on a vintage vessel to make it watertight. Being able to seal drainage holes and seams also opens up the world of resin containers such as this amazing urn that's on sale at Target. Have a hunt around your local hardware store, too: this steel tub from Ace Hardware would make an awesome micropond, as would this utility bucket from Home Depot.

(Image credit: Getty Images)2. Work Out How Powerful Your Solar Water Fountain Needs to Be

A floating fountain is powered by its solar panels and there’s a huge range in terms of quality and capability. The amount of energy the solar panels are capable of generating is measured in watts, which you’ll find in product descriptions as ‘W’ and it’s important to match this, which governs the force and shape of the spray, to the size of the container you're using.

While you want to enjoy a decent water flow and fountain height, it’s also vital to also think about minimizing water loss so you’re not forever having to top up your micropond. Water loss happens when the spray pattern is wider than the container, but also because of wind, so is affected by the height of the fountain, too.

A 1W or 1.5W solar fountain is typically designed to operate in a birdbath so will produce a pretty gentle bubble. If that's what you want, great. But because there are LEDs as well as a water pump to power, an illuminated fountain rated around 3.5W or 4W is best for most patio-sized containers. You’ll also find fountains at 5.5W and 6.5W which suit a larger diameter vessel if you're making a sizeable water feature.

Look at what material the solar panels are made of too. Glass panels are far more efficient than plastic, so will still generate plenty of energy on a partially cloudy day.

Best Solar Fountains For a Great Light Show

Well-spaced lights

Flower Design 3.5W Solar Fountain

This 3.5W fountain has 8 spray patterns from a gentle mist to a strong jet, and two rows of LEDs illuminate the water well.

All white

3.5W Solar Fountain With Auto LEDs

All the LEDs on this 3.5W fountain are white for a more serene light show, and 7 nozzles offer a good variation of spray patterns.

Vast variation

4W Solar Fountain With 60 LEDs

With 60 LEDs and 8 spraying modes, this 4W fountain has a huge 4000mAh battery capacity to power all those lights after dark.

Most solar fountains come with a handful of interchangeable nozzles that create different spray patterns in varying heights and widths, too. By combining a powerful energy rating with a nozzle that gives a narrow spray, you can enjoy maximum water flow without too much water loss.

In a small or shallow container, it's also worth looking for a design with stabilising arms. These prevent the fountain floating close to the container rim, and so help to reduce water loss. While you're reading the small print, check the fountain has run-dry protection so it automatically shuts down if there’s insufficient water, and a filter to prevent debris from entering the pump.

3. Check the Fountain Has a Battery Before You Buy

Some solar fountains have a battery to store the energy generated by the solar panels so it can still operate when the sun isn’t shining, whether that’s because it’s nighttime or simply a cloudy day. Some fountains don’t, which means they’ll only operate when sunlight hits their solar panels. You would think that all illuminated solar fountains are fitted with a battery as they’re intended for use after dark, but that’s not the case.

So, do check the solar fountain has a battery, and that the battery's capacity is relevant to its wattage and number of lights, as this will dictate how long it will run for after dark. Depending on how many LEDs it has to power, a typical 3.5W fountain with a 2000mAh battery will likely run for around 3 hours after sundown, after a full charge on a sunny day. If you want a fountain with a lot of lights, or one that runs for a long time, look for a higher-capacity 3000mAh or 4000mAh battery.

Best Solar Fountains for Battery Capacity

4-5 hours

4W Solar Fountain With 60 LED Lights

This 4W fountain has a 4000mAh capacity battery to power its 60 LED lights for 4-6 hours once the sun goes down.

5-6 Hours

4W Solar Powered Fountain With Color LED Lights

With a 3000mAh capacity battery, 8 light colors and a good nozzle selection, this 4W fountain will run for 5-6 hours after dark on a full charge.

6-7 hours

6.5W Solar Fountain With 8 Nozzles

While this 6.5W fountain is better for a larger container, its 3000mAh capacity battery and 7 LEDs mean it’ll run for 6-7 hours.

4. Position Your Water Feature Well

Depending on the size of your water feature, it’s a smart move to position the container before filling with water. You’ll need a fairly sunny spot to ensure the solar panels get fully charged, but most quality fountains with a battery fitted only need 4-6 hours of sun for a full charge.

Choosing a position which gets a little shade for part of the day will reduce evaporation and the frequency your water feature needs topping up. It’s also a good idea to position your feature away from overhanging trees or plants that may drop leaves into the water.

Consider other light sources, too, as the darker the area is, the more the illuminated water cascade will stand out.

(Image credit: Getty Images)5. Add Some Decor, if You Fancy

How you choose to pretty-up your water feature is entirely up to you – and honestly, a container with a floating fountain is simply lovely as it is. But you could add a compact water plant such as lesser spearwort (Ranunculus flammua) or water forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpioides), both available from specialist supplier Pond Plants of America. How about adding a few rounded pebbles such as these from Amazon to the container itself, or around its base? And you’ll find all sorts of cute pond ornaments such as these floating faux water lilies from Amazon or this fishing tortoise figurine, also from Amazon, to add charm to your water feature.

A small wildlife ramp to ensure critters can climb out of your micropond, should they fall in, such as this from Amazon, is a must.

6. Fill With Water and Enjoy!

Now fill the container with water, pop the floating fountain in, and wait a few seconds for the sun to power it up. If you’re growing aquatic plants or want wildlife to use your micropond, it’s best to use harvested rainwater, otherwise tap water is fine. To enhance the reflections of the lights in the water, you can add a drop of black pond colorant like this from Amazon.

Then the only job left to do, once the sun starts to set, is to pour yourself a cooling drink, pull up your favorite patio chair, and enjoy your beautiful new garden water feature.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Do you dream of cascades of enormous wisteria flowers but get a vine-full of foliage instead? This plant blooms on the previous year’s growth so the secret to get bigger wisteria flowers next summer lies in what you do with it now. Prune wisteria in July and you'll direct all its energy into growing next year's flowerbuds.

In July, your wisteria vine has finished producing this year’s flowers and gets busy growing long, whippy stems full of leaves. Leave these straggly stems to flourish and you won’t just have a giant plant on your hands, but far fewer flowers next year, and perhaps none at all.

Remove those unruly long stems now, however, and you’ll force your vine to focus its energy on growing fat flowerbuds for a waterfall of big, beautiful blooms next May and June. And it's easy to do, even if you're a beginner gardener. Pruning a wisteria vine is a key July gardening job, and a summer trim also makes its second prune at the end of winter so much quicker to do. Ready? Here's exactly how to prune wisteria in summer.

How to Prune Wisteria in July

(Image credit: Getty Images)

First, trace the new, straggly stems – called whips – back to the point they emerge from the main framework of the vine. Then count five buds or leaf stalks along the whip and use bypass hand pruners such as these from Amazon or a pair of pruning scissors like these from Amazon to cut just above that fifth bud.

Shorten all the whips in this way. If you find some have already wound themselves into a big tangle, don’t worry about untangling them – just get snipping. It’s not critical to precisely count five buds or leaf stalks, that’s an optimum number to aim for.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

If your vine also has bare stems hanging downwards, snip those off too. These are what’s left of this year’s flowers and they’ll soon turn yellow and look unsightly. If there are seedpods attached, you might want to leave them to enjoy the sight of these silvery adornments. But, if your goal is huge flowers next year, it’s best to remove them as that will prevent the vine from wasting energy on seed production.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Removing all this whippy growth halts the wisteria’s rampant growth and stops the plant putting all its energy into growing stems and leaves. And that's important: wisteria certainly isn't one of those well-behaved vines that won't scramble out of control. This vine has evolved to grow rapidly up through tall trees in a forest to reach the sunlight, so growing all these whips to help it clamber up through a tree canopy to get life-giving sunshine is its number one priority in summer.

So, removing the whips saves a whole heap of energy that can be used to grow bigger flowers.

Getting rid of this leafy growth also allows more sunlight to reach the short lengths of woody stems left, which is critical. Sunshine is necessary to ripen this wood, and more sun will grow fatter flowerbuds for bigger blooms. Skip pruning your wisteria in July and all the foliage that grows on the whips can block so much sunlight that your vine doesn’t flower at all the following year, as flowerbuds only form on sun-ripened wood.

The other advantage to pruning wisteria in July is that it keeps this vigorous vine, which has the potential to become invasive, under control. Leave these whips in place and each one is capable of growing up to 10 feet long. Once they've hardened into a woody tangle around drainpipes and chimneys, pruning them in late winter is a far harder task.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

So now you know exactly what to do, you can be confident about trimming your vine to get more wisteria flowers, avoiding common pruning mistakes. By shortening the whippy growth in July, your vine will produce less foliage and more flowers for a spectacular display next year.

How to Prune Wisteria in Late Winter

(Image credit: Alamy)

Wisteria needs pruning twice a year, once in late summer and once in late winter. And the good news is that shortening all the whips on your wisteria in July makes the main winter prune so much easier.

When winter-pruning a wisteria vine in January or February, you simply need to reduce those stems you cut in July further, to two or three buds. You can tell which are the flower buds and which are the leaf buds: the fat, teardrop-shaped buds will form flowers, while the thinner, flatter, more pointed buds will grow leaves. Creating these short spurs concentrates all the plant’s energy into the fattest buds at the base of the stems, giving you much larger flowers.

In late winter, you can also prune to remove dead, damaged or diseased stems, to keep your vine healthy, but leave the main framework alone.

Other Plants to Prune in July

If you’ve only got time to prune one plant in July, make wisteria your priority. Here’s what else can be pruned in July, once you’ve done that vital task:

• Early-flowering shrubs such as philadelphus (mock orange), weigela, forsythia and deutzia, if you haven't pruned these already. All these shrubs flower on the previous year’s growth so pruning them now gives them plenty of time to form fresh growth and next year’s flowerbuds.
• Fast-growing hedging plants such as privet. While you should trim slower-growing hedging plants such as box, hornbeam and beech at the beginning of summer, and again at the end, giving faster-growing plants such as privet a trim every 4-6 weeks will keep it in shape.
• Early-flowering honeysuckle, once it’s finished flowering. Reduce flowered shoots by a third and, if your plant is only flowering at its stem ends, cut up a quarter of stems to two feet from the ground to encourage blooms across the whole plant.
• Fruit canes that have finished fruiting, such as early-fruiting raspberries. Cutting old stems off at the base to make room for new stems.
• Rambling roses that aren’t rebloomers, if they’ve finished flowering. The ideal time to prune ramblers is immediately after they’ve finished flowering in late summer, shortening the side branches to around 4 inches and clearing out any old wood.
• Trained fruit trees such as cordon apples and pears. Standalone fruit trees are pruned in winter but shoots on highly trained trees can be shortened now.

America’s 250th birthday is just around the corner, and you can celebrate right in your own garden. Did you know that many of our founding fathers, including George Washington and Alexander Hamilton, had gardens on their estates, and were deeply invested in the different plants and flowers they grew? This makes sense when you consider how a thriving, self-reliant landscape reflects the thriving, free society they hoped to create.

While we can only speculate as to the contents and layout of the flower gardens of our founding fathers, history has recorded the species of beautiful summer flowers available in the young nation. Unlike some of our hot-house exotics today, yesteryear’s flowers were tough, resilient plants that could surmount issues in their growing environment in a way that reflects American grit.

What better way to celebrate our nation’s historical courage and persistence in the face of challenges than to add some of these amazing plants to your own landscape? We’ve put together a shortlist of 8 flowering beauties that our founding fathers might well have included in their own gardens.

1. Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)

(Image credit: Kait Lisabeth / Getty Images)

Talk about a plant with roots deep in the American experiment! The cardinal flower is a North American native, a tough, hardy perennial with brilliant red blooms that was chosen by Thomas Jefferson for his personal garden in Monticello in 1807. Well before that, Native Americans used the plant medicinally.

Today there are dozens of cultivars of this plant with different colored blooms. Plant it in USDA zones 3-9 in a full sun location and moist, well-draining soil. The plants require little maintenance. They grow rapidly and reseed themselves

Cardinal Flower Seeds

2. Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus)

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

The sweet pea is another plant that has been around for centuries. It is an elegant plant with a lovely fragrance that is said to have arrived in England as early as 1699. One can only assume that his graceful beauty, called the queen of the annuals, made its way to the colonies and into the gardens of our founding fathers.

Elegant, graceful and fragrant, sweet peas are vining plants that can get as long as 8 feet in areas with sun and well-draining soil. Vintage sweet pea plants offer vibrant colors and an intense fragrance, making your landscape feel like a cottage garden. Modern cultivars offer a wider variety of shades but some lack the traditional fragrance.

Sweet Pea Seeds

3. Cockscomb (Celosia cristata)

(Image credit: ncristian / Getty Images)

Cockscomb is another of the plants we know for certain that Thomas Jefferson planted in his garden. That’s because he noted the planting of Cockscomb seeds in 1767, describing it as “a flower like the Prince's feather."

Today, cockscomb is a popular garden flower, still noted for its unique “feather” form. The flowers are bright and last long on the plant and also as fresh or dried blooms. Plant cockscomb in full sun and moist, well-drained soils. You will find cockscomb with flowers in purple, blue, white, pink, or lavender. Coclscomb in the Celosia genus is an annual, while a sister variety in the Delphinium genus is a perennial.

Cockscomb Seeds

4. Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)

(Image credit: Oksana Schmidt / Shutterstock)

This showy plant with spires of pink-purple tubular flowers grows wild on my mountain in France. But foxglove seeds also made it to the colonies as early as 1735. The plant made the list as being ordered for Jefferson’s Monticello home.

Foxglove is not a diminutive plant, sometimes growing to 5 feet (2m) tall. It is magnificent and tough, growing in USDA zones 4-10 in anyplace there is drainage and some sun. It is toxic and can cause serious injury if touched with bare hands or ingested.

Foxglove Seeds

5. Twinleaf (Jeffersonia diphylla)

(Image credit: Brian Woolman / Getty Images)

Twinleaf is a rare woodland wildflower native to North America. Reputed by family members to be in Jefferson’s gardens, it was named in honor of the founding father in 1792.

Twinleaf is a North American perennial with small white flowers that appear on stems in early spring, before the leaves have expanded. The unusual lidded seedpods mature in early June and often go completely dormant in summer.

Twinleaf prefers shade and makes a wonderful groundcover in a suitable location. It offers lush green leaves and flowers, small white blossoms that open in early spring before the leaves. Easy to grow, twinleaf plants are not for the hasty as they can take up to 8 years to bloom from seed.

Twinleaf Plants

6. Marigold (Tagetes species)

(Image credit: Schnuddel / Getty Images)

Most of us know marigolds, flower garden staples with their vibrant, colorful flowers. But did you know that they were planted in Thomas Jefferson’s Montecello in the early 1800s? Native to South America, they made their slow way to America via northern Africa and Europe.

These members of the sunflower family have evolved over time into double garden forms, but Jefferson planted the species form, with single, yellow flowers. Hardy in USDA zone 9 and above, they are generally grown as tough, resilient annuals.

Marigold Seeds

7. Hollyhock (Alcea rosea)

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Much of our knowledge about the flowers planted in the early days of our nation comes from the efforts of Thomas Jefferson. In a 1782 Garden Book entry he created a chart of flower bloom months that showed Hollyhocks flowering at Monticello from mid-June through July.

Today there are numerous species of hollyhocks available in commerce. They are known as cold-hardy, adaptable flowering plants, available in almost most colors of the rainbow. These can grow to 8 feet (3m) tall if planted in a full sun location. Use at the back of borders or against fencing for best effect.

Hollyhock Seeds

8. Larkspur (Consolida ajacis)

(Image credit: Brytta / Getty Images)

Is larkspur one of the toughest annuals out there? Even so, it is one of the plants traditionally used in cottage gardens and attracts pollinators to your yard with its delicate blooms. The foliage can only be called lacy, held high on showy, spiked stems.

This annual was brought to America from the Old World and quickly made itself at home in USDA hardiness zones 2-9. It is extremely hardy and replants itself every year by self-seeding. Just after the birth of our nation, Jefferson had it planted at Monticello. Larkspur prefers a full sun exposure and can grow to 7 feet (2m) tall.

Larkspur Seeds

A manicured lawn is no longer the default dream.

Across Vancouver and the Lower Mainland, a quiet shift is taking place in backyards, side gardens and outdoor areas. Homeowners want beauty, comfort and privacy, but are increasingly asking for spaces that feel less controlled and more alive, says landscape architect Andrew van Egmond, founder of Designing Landscape.

The wild is being embraced more and more, he says:

“It’s a movement that is present in landscape design and landscape architecture globally.”

Originally from the Netherlands and now based in British Columbia, van Egmond works on projects across the province, from Ucluelet and Whistler to Quadra Island and Summerland. His work is subtle, minimal and deeply site-specific, shaped by local materials, native planting and the surrounding landscape.

This fall, he will bring that thinking to IDS Vancouver with a feature installation exploring the relationship between design and the dynamic forces of nature. The project will use layered planting, biodiversity-focused design and circular and upcycled materials to create an immersive landscape that changes over time.

Embracing the wild

There is a growing awareness that we’ve moved away from nature too much, and need to reconnect, and he’s seeing this in West Coast garden design, says van Egmond.

He points to designers such as Dave Demers and Botanica Design, as well as the Dutch garden designer Piet Oudolf, whose work includes Millennium Park in Chicago and the High Line in New York, as helping make looser, more naturalistic planting feel accepted by a wider public.

The next step is more radical and more local, says van Egmond.

“I think now it’s time to go one step further and let the spontaneity of a real native planting system back into our spaces close to where we live, our homes,” he says.

This means less yearly mulching, less heavy irrigation and less reliance on exotic plants that can become invasive.

“I think we are moving to a yard that is more in tune with nature, supporting the local ecosystem and accepting the flux of the seasons and nature that we so much value in B.C.”

A situated garden

In B.C., the mountains, forests, shorelines and native plant communities are so prominent, says van Egmond.

“We are fortunate to live in such an amazing part of the world, where nature is abundant, and what we all value and enjoy is something we want to have closer to home.”

For homeowners, the takeaway is practical. Look first at what is already around you. The trees beyond the fence, the borrowed view, the slope of the site, the light, the native plants that thrive nearby.

Subtle luxury

If you want to make an outdoor space feel elevated without being overdesigned, van Egmond suggests going big, matched with restraint.

“Don’t do too much, but what you do, do it well,” he says.

The trick is to create interest without clutter. He recommends large gestures rather than decoration, and a simple, restrained material palette. The planting can be rich, layered and wild, but the hardscaping should remain calm and well-balanced.

“I believe that working with real materials does benefit the overall feel of elegance and luxuriousness. So no plastics that pretend to be wood, no concrete elements that pretend to be natural stone, no plastic planters, etc.”

A simple stone path, a generous timber bench, a restrained terrace or a single strong planting move can carry more weight than a collection of small decorative features.

Green sanctuary

“Green, green and green,” he says. “If you surround yourself with an abundance of planting, you will create your own oasis.”

Planting softens the visual pressure of cars, asphalt and nearby buildings. It brings birds and insects closer to home. It buffers city noise. Add water, especially moving water, and the garden can begin to mask the sounds of the surrounding neighbourhood.

“The green comes with maintenance, and therefore many people build hard surfaces, fences and lots of mulching, but that does not create this feeling of well-being and sanctuary.”

Where to spend

For the biggest impact, van Egmond suggests avoiding expensive features that drain money, energy and maintenance unless they will truly be used.

“Not in a pool if you don’t use it regularly. It drains energy, uses lots of water, and requires lots of maintenance. Same for a Jacuzzi,” he says.

Instead, he advises investing in real, locally sourced materials, such as local wood and natural stone from nearby quarries. It may cost more than imported alternatives, but it gives the space a stronger connection to place, supports local business, and they weather well.

Big gestures also matter. A generous planting move, a large water feature or a substantial grouping of planters (think 12) can have more presence than scattered decorative pieces.

“Mimic the scale of nature,” he says.

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