Organic Gardening News

Houseplants bring so much life and joy to the indoors at this time of the year, so it can be especially distressing to see leaves dropping. The occasional drop of one or two older, spent leaves isn’t a big deal, but if you see green or yellow leaves falling or an excessive leaf drop, you have cause for concern.

Don't panic, though. Fall leaf drop in houseplants doesn’t necessarily mean they’re dying, but it is a sign of distress that you should heed. The transition to fall and winter can be difficult for houseplants, who can struggle to survive changes in lighting, temperature, humidity, and more. Tropical houseplants are particularly susceptible to these shifts. Environmental changes can trigger plants to drop their leaves, and while some simply need an adjustment period to recover, you can speed their journey back to full health by working out what they're particularly unhappy about.

So, great work getting here to Garden ER where you'll find straightforward solutions to treat this season’s biggest planty problems. Right now, let's identify the kind of leaf drop you’re seeing and the probable cause, and what you should do to set it right. Come on in and let’s diagnose and treat your houseplant with fallen leaves.

Triage: How Serious is the Leaf Drop?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Normal, occasional leaf drop happens when an older leaf, usually near the base of the plant, has yellowed or browned and is ready to drop and make room for new growth. Unusual and more concerning leaf drop shows some characteristic signs:

• Healthy green leaves suddenly dropping
• More yellow leaves dropping than usual
• Leaves turning brown and dry before dropping
• Many leaves dropping at the same time
• Stems dropping along with leaves
• Healthy plants looking ragged and unhealthy within days or a week.

You might see one or more of these symptoms in your houseplant, and they'll help you identify the cause.

Diagnosis: What's Causing Leaf Drop in My Houseplant?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Many of the causes of excessive leaf drop are related to seasonal changes in growing conditions. Observe the symptoms in your plants and the conditions where they’re growing to decide which one, or more than one, of these issues is at play.

1. Temperature Changes

While indoor temperature shifts right now might not seem that drastic to you, they can be for houseplants. As the temperatures drop outside, your plants’ locations near windows might be significantly colder than other areas of a room, even with the heat on. They might also be experiencing drafts that were absent in summer and early fall. Colder overall temperatures and changes in temperature throughout the day can both be damaging.

Some signs a plant might be dropping leaves due to temperature shifts include suddenly dropped green leaves, leaves falling after a cold night, or leaf drop on the side of a plant facing a cold draft or window.

Tropical houseplants, and in particular ficus – including fiddle leaf fig, weeping fig and rubber tree plant – are especially sensitive to temperature changes, and are notorious for dropping their leaves after even a subtle shift.

(Image credit: Getty Images)2. Low Humidity

If you’ve had the windows open to enjoy the soft breezes of summer and early fall, closing them up in November can be a shock for houseplants. Turn on the heating, the humidity in the house naturally drops, leaving your plants to grow in dry, stale air.

Low humidity stresses many houseplants and in particular that come from humid tropical or subtropical locations such as Alocasia and Boston ferns. Calathea plants are especially likely to develop dry, crispy leaves that drop. In the dry air, these plants lose more water through their leaves than the roots can replace, and this results in drooping foliage, brown and crispy tips and edges, curling leaves, and increased leaf drop. It’s important to note that dry air can affect plants this way even if the soil is moist.

3. Shorter Days, Less Light

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Late fall and winter bring shorter days and less natural light for plants. This means plants engage in less photosynthesis and grow more slowly, and some go dormant, and leaf drop is a common response. In scientific terms, the lower light conditions accelerate abscission, the natural process that causes plants to shed their leaves.

Stress in the environment can also trigger certain hormones that cause leaves to detach before they’ve reached the end of their natural lifespan. It’s a response that helps a plant reduce the demands of maintaining healthy leaves when conditions aren’t favorable, to help ensure survival. So, while some seasonal leaf drop can be expected at this time of the year, an excessive loss of leaves likely means a stress-related acceleration of the process.

You might be seeing abscission due to lower light levels if plants drop a lot of older, yellow leaves at the base and without other signs of issues, like over- or underwatering. You might also see an overall thinning of the plant and less new growth.

4. Inappropriate Watering

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Reduced light levels and slower growth means plants don’t use as much water this time of year, and if you’re watering them like it’s still summer, they're likely overwatered, triggering leaf drop. This is a common reason why houseplants develop yellowing leaves in November. When waterlogged roots start to rot, they can’t absorb nutrients to send to the leaves which consequently turn yellow and drop off. You'll also likely see consistently wet soil, soft stems and mushy roots, and you may notice a sour smell.

Underwatering can be an issue too. If the soil fully dries out for long periods, you might see drooping, curling, or crispy leaves that readily drop off.

5. Moving Plants

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Plants that live indoors all year are susceptible to subtle environmental changes in November, but houseplants that spend the summer outside and the winter inside can experience even greater shifts. The change from fresh air, sun, and warmth to drier air and less light indoors is particularly stressful, and they can drop their leaves as a result.

Your plants can also be stressed if you move them to different locations within the home. Fiddle leaf figs are particularly sensitive to being moved once they’re comfortable. Most plants will recover from the shock of moving as long as you provide the right conditions in their new spot.

6. Pests

Environmental stress is the most typical reason for houseplant leaf drop, but be sure to check for pests too. Spider mites are common at this time of the year and an infestation can cause yellowing and leaf drop, especially in warm, dry air when numbers rapidly increase. If you spot fine webbing on the undersides of the leaves and where foliage meets stems, that's a sure sign of spider mites.

Watch out for mealybugs, too, which look like white, cottony lumps often in the joints between leaves and stems. Scale insects appear like small brown bumps on stems and leaves, and can also cause leaves to yellow and drop.

Treatment: How to Stop Houseplant Leaf Drop

Take action to correct these causes and minimize leaf drop, and houseplants will quickly recover. While some of these steps will be particularly important to put right whatever is the cause of your houseplant's stress, all will help a struggling, stressed plant to recover.

1. Find a Spot with a Consistent Temperature

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Plants don't respond well to being moved frequently so, rather than continually moving your houseplant around to find a location that suits, do some prep first. A basic thermometer that shows the minimum and maximum temperatures reached like this TempPro Digital Thermometer from Amazon will quickly show you exactly how cozy – or otherwise – a particular spot is. Houseplants prefer stable temperatures and it can be surprising what spikes are caused by heating vents and radiators, and what lows occur near doors, in drafts and on windowsills.

2. Increase Humidity

Dry indoor air is a major issue for tropical houseplants native to warm, humid areas. Grouping houseplants together naturally increases humidity around them, and you can easily raise moisture levels further with humidity trays. These are simply shallow trays filled with pebbles that sit beneath the pot, topped up with water that evaporates to increase air humidity. A Bonsai pebble tray such as this from Lowe’s is made for the job, or fashion your own with a plant saucer and pea gravel like this Landscape Rock from The Home Depot.

Another option is to use a humidifier and a portable design like the Homedics Humidifier, available from Amazon, is small enough to sit discreetly in among a group of houseplants.

3. Adjust Watering

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Instead of relying on guesswork, spend $10 on some simple, no-batteries-required moisture meters like these from Amazon, that tell you when the soil needs some more water. Instead of watering on a set schedule, check the soil on a set schedule instead and you'll naturally adjust irrigation levels in line with houseplants' seasonal needs. Make sure all your plants are in pots with a drainage hole and empty saucers or cachepot after watering to be sure roots aren’t sitting in soggy soil.

If you ever suspect overwatering, always check for root rot by sliding off the pot to check for discolored or mushy stems and a foul smell.

4. Provide More Light

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Because of reduced daylight hours and lower position of the sun in the sky through fall and winter, pay extra attention to whether houseplants are getting enough light. East-, west- and south-facing rooms are usually best, and rotate plants to ensure they get light evenly. If there isn't enough natural light in the spot you want to display your plants, use a grow light. These needn't be expensive, as this basic dimmable LED grow light such as this from Walmart proves.

5. Manage Pests

If you see pests or signs of pests, deal with the issue right away and isolate affected plants from others to avoid the infestation spreading. Wipe pests, webbing, honeydew and other residue from leaves with a soft cloth, and remove any foliage that is very badly damaged. Finally, if necessary, use an insecticidal soap or neem oil like Captain Jack's Neem Oil Spray, available from Amazon, to manage a pest infestation.

Patient Notes

Some plants like caladiums and elephant ear go dormant this time of year, so losing leaves in November is a natural and normal part of their lifecycle. As they're not actively growing, they're better placed in a cooler but not cold part of the house and watering significantly reduced.

More Garden ER Help

Every week, the Garden ER series brings you simple solutions to this season's most pressing problems, for happy and healthy plants without any hassle.

Yellowing Leaves?

Why your houseplant leaves are turning yellow this November, and the simple fix to save your plant's life.

Brown Leaf Tips?

Work out what's behind your ailing spider-plant developing brown tips in fall and nurse your houseplant back to health.

Deter Snakes

Take these proven-to-work steps to make your yard inhospitable to snakes in fall and reduce numbers next year, too.

Save Squash

End rot is a common challenge for winter squash in fall but identify the cause and it's simple to rescue the remaining crop.

Cactus Dropping Leaves?

A lost leaf or two doesn’t spell disaster for a Christmas cactus in fall but you can't afford to ignore this distress signal.

Brown Lawn Patches?

Chafer grubs have devastated drought-stressed lawns this year but are easily treated if catch this crucial fall window.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.) is a popular native perennial, loved for its cheerful, daisy-like flowers with bright yellow petals and contrasting dark centers. As a native flower, this perennial is generally easy to grow, especially once established in the right conditions

One aspect of black-eyed Susan care that can be confusing for gardeners is pruning. Should you deadhead the flowers? Should you cut plants back all the way in winter? How do you trim black-eyed Susans? The answers to these questions, and more, depend on your goals, the time of year, and the types of Rudbeckia.

In our expert guide, we explain when and how to trim and prune black-eyed Susan and answer gardeners’ most frequently asked questions. Careful and timely pruning will keep your plants healthy and coming back year after year.

When to Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans

The timing for pruning black-eyed Susan depends on the reason for doing so. There are a few opportunities throughout the year:

• Summer. Deadhead spent flowers to keep plants blooming for longer.
• Fall. Remove diseased and damaged plant material, but consider leaving healthy stems and seedheads in place to feed wildlife.
• Spring. Cut back the older plant material to make room for new growth.

Even within these parameters, gardeners have some wiggle room. You don’t have to deadhead, for instance. You also don’t have to cut back healthy plants just because the growing season has come to an end.

(Image credit: Getty Images)How to Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans

Exactly how you’ll cut back your plants depends on the specific task, but these are general best practices for routine pruning:

• Always use sharp, clean shears. Felco's F6 Pruning Shears were rated best pruners in our testing, but Fiskars' Bypass Pruning Shears are a reliable budget-friendly pick.
• Follow the flower stem down to a healthy leaf, a side shoot, or the base of the plant to make your cut.
• When removing flowers, make a clean cut just above a healthy leaf node or branching bud.
• Remove dead or broken stems at the base.

Trim off any diseased-looking plant material whenever you see it and dispose of it in the waste, not compost.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Deadheading Black-Eyed Susans in Summer and Early Fall

Deadheading is one of the most useful pruning chores gardeners have at their disposal. Selective removal of spent flowers keeps perennials like black-eyed Susans flowering until seasonal and weather changes start to trigger dormancy.

Remove spent flowers once the petals fade and drop off, or whenever they no longer look tidy or at their peak. Cut the stem under the flower back to the next healthy leaf or side bud.

You can also accompany summer deadheading with a light overall trim if the plant is looking leggy. Trim stems back to side buds or the base, but do so carefully and selectively. Avoid heavy pruning in summer.

Should You Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans in Fall?

As long as the plant looks healthy, you can keep your black-eyed Susan standing in fall and through winter. The standing seedheads provide valuable food for birds in winter and offer some visual interest in winter beds. The plants also provide shelter for beneficial insects.

If your plants don’t look healthy, for instance if you see signs of fungal disease, it’s best to cut them back. Cut all the stems and foliage back to the ground and dispose of it. Don’t put it in the compost pile, as this can spread disease.

You can also cut back plants if you prefer a tidier appearance in winter. This can also help you prevent self-seeding if you don’t want your black-eyed Susans to spread.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Do Different Types of Black-Eyed Susan Need Different Pruning?

Pruning needs are generally similar across types, but there are a few considerations for different black-eyed Susans:

• Rudbeckia fulgida. Also known as orange coneflower, this type is a dependable perennial that readily forms big clumps. You can follow the above guidelines for this species, deadheading in summer, and leaving seedheads in place for winter.
• Rudbeckia hirta. This is the species most often referred to when using the term black-eyed Susan. It is a short-lived perennial that readily self-seeds. If you don’t want it spreading throughout beds, it’s best to deadhead and cut seedheads back before winter.
• Rudbeckia triloba. Brown-eyed Susan is another shorter-lived perennial that re-seeds readily. Whether or not you deadhead and trim back depends on whether you want to fill out your bed with more plants.

Garden Trimming Essentials

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears

Corona Tools Handheld Garden Tool Sharpener

Frequently Asked QuestionsWill Black-Eyed Susans Bloom Again if Cut Back?

Deadheading black-eyed Susans encourages more blooming in the same season. Severely cutting back the plant before it has gone dormant can reduce blooming. Cutting back before winter will not restrict next year’s flowers.

How Far Should I Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans?

For deadheading, cut back to the next healthy leaf or side bud. For seasonal cut-backs, trim stems all the way down to the ground.

Do Black-Eyed Susans Need Pruning Every Year?

Deadheading is optional, but plants should be cut back all the way either in late fall before winter or in spring before or just as new growth emerges.

Should I Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans Before Winter?

Not necessarily. Leaving native perennials in place over winter supports wildlife and offers some visual interest in garden beds. The exception is diseased plants. These should be cut back.

Black-eyed Susan pruning is actually pretty simple. Deadhead in summer to enjoy more flowers and cut back spent material before winter or in early spring. The choice is yours and depends on your preferences, type of plant, and whether or not you support native wildlife.

Baby, baby, baby, oh! Justin Bieber might not be a name we'd usually associate with gardening, but the singer's latest Instagram photo dump has certainly given us food for thought.

Among the snapshots was a glimpse of what looks like a rather dreamy outdoor living space, complete with cozy terrace sofas, an outdoor fireplace and even an outdoor TV screen. But it was another, slightly blurrier photograph that caught this writer's attention: an owl, seemingly a great horned owl (aka the birth month owl for January babies everywhere!), paying a visit to his garden.

A post shared by Justin Bieber (@lilbieber)

A photo posted by

Naturally, this isn't Bieber's first foray into the world of owl appreciation. The singer has had an owl tattoo on his forearm since 2012, with the bird representing wisdom – so it's easy to assume that this latest garden visitor was a particularly welcome sight for him.

Welcome Owls To Your Yard. Justin Bieber-Style

Now, Justin Bieber certainly isn't alone in his fascination with these magnificent birds of prey. Whether it's their haunting calls, striking eyes or wonderfully mysterious reputation, there's something rather special about spotting an owl close to home.

So, if Bieber's feathered visitor has left you wondering how to welcome one of these beautiful birds into your own backyard, the good news is that there are a few things you can do to make your yard more owl-friendly.

Here's where to start.

1. Put Up An Owl Box

One of the best ways to encourage owls into your yard à la Justin Bieber is to give them somewhere safe to nest. Depending on the species in your area, then, installing an owl box could provide just the inviting home they're looking for.

(Image credit: pchoui/Getty Images)

The trick is to figure out which owls are visiting before you buy (or DIY) your nesting box; eastern screech owls, for example, are cavity nesters and will readily use suitably sized nesting boxes. Great horned owls, on the flipside, typically use open nests rather than enclosed boxes.

Once you've researched the requirements of your local owl species, all that's left to do is position your new nesting box high up in a mature tree, somewhere quiet and away from too much human activity.

Shop Owl Nesting Boxes:

JCs Wildlife Recycled Poly Lumber Barred Owl Nesting Box

AnNowshua Ling Owl Houses for Outdoors

BFAZKXY Owl Houses for Outdoors

2. Let Things Go Wild

A perfectly manicured lawn might look lovely, but a slightly wilder yard? Why, that could be much more appealing to visiting owls, as tese birds of prey need somewhere to hunt. (A healthy population of small mammals, such as mice and voles, can provide an important food source).

Try leaving a patch of grass a little longer, planting native grasses and wildflowers, and preserving mature trees wherever possible. Trees offer useful perching and roosting spots (something like the ‘Temple of Bloom’ Seven-Son from Fast Growing Treescould prove just as appealing to nesting hummingbirds as it does owls), while natural vegetation can help support the small mammals that owls feed on.

(Image credit: Larry Keller, Lititz Pa./Getty Images)

Don't worry; you really don't need to let the whole yard run wild (as Justin Bieber's near-immaculate garden proves) – even a small corner can help support local wildlife.

3. Go Dark

Owls are particularly active around dusk and (duh!) during the night, so creating a peaceful and naturally dark environment can help make your yard more welcoming. Consider switching off unnecessary outdoor lights, using motion-sensor lighting where needed, and avoiding bright spotlights that illuminate trees and potential nesting areas throughout the night.

Basically, invest in the kind of garden lighting that reduces light pollution as a rule, and keep it off at night if you want to do your bit. And try, too, keeping noise and disturbance to a minimum around trees and nesting sites.

Shop Wildlife-Friendly Garden Lighting:

WIYIFADA LED Bug Light Bulbs Outdoor 2-Pack

GPATIO Outdoor String Lights, 100ft

L LOHAS LED LED Yellow Flood Light Bulb 2-Pack

4. Rethink Your Pest Control

If you want an owl to visit your garden just as it did Justin Bieber's yard, then it's also important to think carefully about how you eliminate rats.

Rodenticides (rat and mouse poisons) can be dangerous to owls, which may become poisoned after eating contaminated critters. If you want to encourage these beautiful birds into your yard, avoid using rodent poisons, then, and instead opt for safer, more owl-friendly approaches to pest management instead.

If you, like Justin Bieber, are lucky enough to spot an owl in your garden, take care to admire it from a distance rather than approaching or shining a light towards it (and consider investing in a Solar Trail Camera like this one to get your photos). After all, the idea isn't to persuade an owl to become a regular garden guest at any cost, but to create an outdoor space where local wildlife can thrive.

And while there's no guarantee that making these changes will result in an owl visit, you might just find that your garden becomes a little more appealing to some of nature's most fascinating nighttime visitors.

There's precious little time to get out into the garden in the run-up to Christmas, so all the more reason to enjoy a daily gardening fix with a plant-themed advent calendar. Whether your gardening style is growing a sanctuary of cottage-garden blooms or creating a stylish space for outdoor living, there's a Christmas countdown of garden goodies to suit. The joy of opening each door to see what's hiding behind is nearly as wonderful as seeing the first spring bulbs pop up, and who knows what garden adventures these little gifts might inspire!

Which gardening advent calendar is best for you or the gardener in your life?

Garden Tool Set 12 Days of Christmas Countdown Advent Calendar

Terrain Seed Bomb Hanging Ornament 7-Day Christmas Countdown

Flower Bouquet Building Block Christmas Advent Calendar

Yellow Papers Santa in the Garden Illustrated Advent Calendar

Orchid Flower Advent Calendar Building Set Compatible With Lego

Seeds Advent Calendar with 24 Heirloom Perennial Flower Seed Packets

Metropolitan Museum of Art New York Avian Pop-Up Advent Calendar

BBQ Grilling Tools Advent Calendar with Stainless Steel Grilling Accessories

Plant Advent Calendar With 24 Acrylic Hanging Ornaments

Red Cardinal Bird House Christmas Countdown Advent Calendar

Succulents Botanical Building Blocks 24-Day Advent Calendar

The Wild Christmas Nature Advent Calendar Digital Download

Advent Calendar with 24 Mini Ceramic Floral Vase Fridge Magnets

Birds Advent Calendar with 24 Mini Jigsaw Puzzles, 1000 Pieces Total

Talking Trees Books Co. Winter Solstice in the Secret Garden Advent Calendar

Bird Advent Calendar with 24 2D Acrylic Hanging Tree Decorations

Twinings Tea Advent Calendar with 24 Flavours for Tea Lovers

Amber Wind Studio Botanical Advent Calendar with Necklace, Artwork and Dried Flowers

Anthropologie Roger La Borde Pop & Slot Snow Scene Advent Calendar

Lavender At-Home Spa Experience Advent Calendar

Imagine arriving for a medical appointment and finding a room that looks more like a beautiful home than a clinic. Instead of rows of plastic chairs or harsh fluorescent lighting, there’s a comfortable sofa, a place to make tea, interesting artwork and warm, inviting colours.

These are some of the details being explored by two B.C. design studios, each approaching health care with ideas borrowed from residential interiors and hospitality.

At Vancouver’s Everwell wellness clinic, Jessica MacDonald and Kate Snyder, co-founders and co-creative directors of Studio Roslyn, have created a richly layered interior inspired by nature, traditional healing practices and the comforts of home.

In Squamish, Josianne Berube, partner and registered interior designer at STARK Architecture & Interiors, has helped create a different esthetic at Creekside Health, using colour, natural maple, carefully placed lighting and acoustics to make a medical visit feel less institutional.

Small freedoms

One of the more interesting ideas behind both projects is creating health care environments that give patients back a little control.

Consider the ordinary waiting room. Chairs are arranged in rows, often facing one direction. There’s little choice about where to sit or how to spend the time.

At Creekside Health, built-in terracotta banquettes follow the windows. Low yellow tables provide space for children, while a tea and water station allows patients to help themselves.

“Illness removes choice. You are told when to arrive, where to wait and when it is your turn. A space can’t change that, but it can return some control in the moments in between, and this is where STARK’s residential thinking made the greatest difference,” says Berube.

At Everwell, patients can browse wellness products or settle into the reception area before an appointment. In the IV treatment rooms, lounge chairs have pillows that patients can arrange themselves.

“Having those choices, even small ones, can help people feel more at ease,” says MacDonald.

Good from all angles

Something a lot of people never consider is how different a room looks when you’re viewing it from a bed.

The practitioner generally stands, while the patient may be lying down, vulnerable or partially undressed. Overhead lighting, equipment and the way a room is arranged can reinforce this uncomfortable imbalance.

STARK considered this relationship at Creekside, choosing gentle light that falls down the walls rather than directly onto patients. Blue cabinetry and subdued artwork offer something pleasant to look at.

Privacy also extends beyond the door. Acoustic detailing prevents conversations from travelling between rooms, allowing patients to discuss personal matters without wondering who might overhear.

At Everwell, the treatment rooms feature thick drapery, vintage artwork, wooden side tables and soft furniture. Even the walls incorporate unexpected finishes, including bronze paint, bobbin trim and smoked mirror.

Snyder says the challenge is to make these environments welcoming without sacrificing their medical function.

“It’s about finding a balance between comfort and confidence in the care being provided,” she says.

Forgotten spaces

A clinic’s hallways, bathrooms and even its exit deserve as much consideration as its treatment rooms.

At Everwell, a dark patterned carpet runs along the central hallway and continues up the end wall, meeting a brown-painted ceiling. The effect is enveloping, rather than the exposed, brightly lit corridor associated with conventional medical buildings.

At Creekside, the accessible washroom receives the same attention as a boutique hotel bathroom, with terracotta and light blue finishes.

Someone leaving a difficult medical appointment may need a moment to collect themselves before returning to the outside world.

Creekside’s design offers a separate bench near reception, away from the main waiting area, where patients can pause or arrange a followup appointment. Glass block at the reception desk provides a degree of discretion.

These practical considerations extend to staff, too. Creekside’s treatment rooms have sinks and integrated cabinetry to keep supplies close, while a dedicated staff room provides somewhere to eat and take a break.

Good design needn’t cost a fortune

Both studios challenge the assumption that welcoming health care environments require lavish budgets.

At Everwell, forest green, deep brown and limewash finishes distinguish different areas and help visitors navigate the open-plan clinic.

“Paint, for example, can be a relatively economical way to create warmth and define different areas within a space,” says MacDonald.

At Creekside, flexible treatment rooms accommodate family medicine, counselling, acupuncture and massage within approximately 2,130 square feet. Lighting is concentrated where it’s needed rather than uniformly distributed.

The designers also question whether the comforts associated with private clinics should remain largely absent from public health care.

“I don’t think a welcoming, thoughtfully designed health care environment should be considered a luxury. Everyone deserves to feel comfortable and respected in spaces where they’re receiving care,” says MacDonald.

“The most meaningful improvements come from decisions rather than spending. Colour costs no more than white. A thoughtful plan costs no more than a less considered one. Placing light where it is needed, rather than simply adding more of it, often costs less,” says Berube.

Related

• HGTV's Sarah and Bryan Baeumler look back on their summer in Port Alberni
• A fresh canvas, artist Zoë Pawlak opens Point Grey studio

Is there anything more whimsical, more magical than the idea of being able to befriend a crow?

With the ability to recognize individual people, remember faces and learn from experience, these glossy-feathered birds are among the cleverest birds we're likely to encounter in our gardens. They're also steeped in symbolism, appearing in various traditions as spiritual messengers or guides associated with wisdom, transformation and the mysteries of life.

For those who enjoy looking for a little meaning in the natural world, then, spotting one could feel like more than just another garden bird sighting. Especially if you're the sort of person who obsesses over your birth month bird, or spends ages wondering what the first bird you see each morning says about your day ahead.

Should You Befriend a Crow?

Look, we all love finding little stories and connections in nature. Indeed, some of us even believe that the bird we see most in our garden says everything about our gardening style – and a regular crow visitor might suggest there's something rather welcoming about your outdoor space. So, yes, it makes sense many of us are secretly wondering how to befriend a crow.

(Image credit: John C Magee / Getty Images)

If you've been on social media lately, you may have stumbled across the (admittedly niche) trend of CrowTok, which sees people share videos of their feathered visitors, the food they leave out and, occasionally, the curious little objects their avian friends appear to bring in return. And while we might like to imagine these offerings are thank-you gifts, there's some fascinating science behind the behaviour.

Shop Smart Bird Feeders:

Dual-Purpose Hub

NETVUE Netvue by Birdfy Pro Smart Bird Feeder With Hummingbird Add-on

Rustic Charm

TT Nature TT Nature Upgraded Bird Feeder With Camera

Premium Tech

Bird Buddy Birdbuddy Pro Solar Smart Bird Feeder With Camera

Yes, the National Audubon Society has explored how crows sometimes leave objects for people who feed them, with corvid biologist John Marzluff explaining that a clever bird could learn that leaving an object results in a tasty reward.

It's a lovely reminder that our relationship with nature can be full of surprises. Crows are social and remarkably observant birds, and while they're wild animals rather than pets, they can learn to recognise familiar faces and become more comfortable around people who treat them consistently and respectfully.

So, if you'd love to befriend a crow and see a few more of these clever characters dropping by your backyard, there are some simple ways to make your outdoor space more appealing. From offering their favorite snacks to creating a safe spot where they can stop for a drink, here's how to attract crows to your yard – and perhaps even earn their trust in the process.

1. Offer Their Favorite Snack

If there's one way to catch a crow's attention, it's with a tasty snack. Peanuts are a popular choice, and unsalted peanuts are a good option to offer. You could also try a little variety with other suitable foods, such as cooked eggs (plain, obviously, so hold the seasoning!) or mealworms.

It's not just what you offer that matters, however; it's how regularly you do it. Environment for the Americas recommends putting food and water out at the same time and in the same place each day, as crows are intelligent enough to recognise routines, and may soon learn when to expect a visit.

Start by putting out a small amount, then, and clear away anything uneaten to avoid attracting unwanted visitors. With time, your regular visitors may begin to recognize you as the person responsible for their daily delivery.

2. Give Them Somewhere Safe To Perch

(Image credit: Beata Whitehead/Getty Images)

Crows are naturally cautious birds, so where you put their food can make a big difference if you're trying to make friends with one. Rather than hiding snacks away in a traditional hanging bird feeder, then, try placing a small amount on a low feeding platform or another suitable open surface (like this nifty Deck Bird Feeder from Amazon).

A spot near a fence, shed roof or sturdy tree branch can give them somewhere to perch while they tuck in. And, ideally, you should choose somewhere with clear sightlines, as this allows crows to keep an eye on their surroundings and spot potential danger.

Try to give them plenty of space, too. If you're watching from indoors, they'll have the opportunity to get comfortable with your presence without feeling as though they're being observed too closely.

3. Prove Fresh Water... And Time

Food might get their attention, but a reliable source of fresh water can give crows another reason to visit. Try placing a shallow bird bath or sturdy water bowl somewhere accessible, with a gently sloping edge that makes it easy for birds to drink and bathe.

Keep the water fresh, changing it regularly and cleaning the dish to prevent a build-up of dirt and bacteria. Position it somewhere relatively open so visiting crows can watch for potential predators while they stop for a drink... and then get ready for the most tedious part of our How To Befriend A Crow 101 Guide: be patient.

Oh yes, rather than rushing outside to get closer, try sitting quietly at a distance while the birds eat and drink. Some crow enthusiasts on Reddit also suggest making a gentle whistling sound as you put food out, as this helps the birds associate that sound with a reliable food source, but that one is well and truly up to you!

It takes time to befriend a crow. Give it a little while, though, and you may find that your visitors become less wary when you're around. Just let them set the pace – earning the trust of a wild crow is a relationship worth taking slowly.

Sure, you might not end up with a crow delivering shiny little presents to your doorstep, but creating a garden where these intelligent birds feel safe enough to visit? Well, that's a rather lovely reward in itself, I say!

Dear Tony:

Our strata of 48 units has permitted 10 heat pump installations since 2018. We have an alteration agreement with each unit, but it did not address the issue of maintenance and repair and how to manage issues if an owner failed to meet their obligations.

Now we have one system that is very noisy and several adjacent owners are complaining. We have asked the owner to hire someone to inspect and maintain the unit and they have not responded.

Beyond stepping in and paying for the service call, are there other options? Perhaps an additional bylaw that addresses all the heat pumps?

Thanks for all your columns.

— Melissa E.

Dear Melissa:

With the growing demand, rebates and government programs for heat pumps, there also comes a significant rise in confusion and conflicts over the management of alterations. Strata corporations can’t simply grant permission for heat pump installations and then remove themselves from the implications. This is an excellent opportunity for strata corporations to get their bylaws and alteration agreements set up to address present conditions of the alteration and installation and future liabilities, such as responsibility to maintain and repair, whose insurance covers the systems, what happens if a strata lot sells and the consequences if an owner fails to maintain and repair a heat pump.

Strata corporations have two options for the future maintenance repair. They may leave the responsibility with each owner to manage their individual heat pumps, or a strata corporation may adopt a types bylaw where the strata corporation takes responsibility for annual maintenance and inspections, while the annual operating cost is allocated to only those units with heat pumps. Either option is viable with the appropriate bylaws and agreements in place.

Historic practice has taught us that owners generally do not maintain their equipment. Your experience has validated the assumption. If a strata corporation leaves the obligation of maintenance and repair to owners, that requirement should be clearly set out as part of the bylaws and the alteration agreement. They should also include consequences, for example: “In the event an owner does not maintain a heat pump system resulting in failure, nuisance or damages to common property or neighbouring units, the strata corporation is authorized, at the cost of the owner, to access the unit and perform the necessary service requirements.”

If there is a types bylaw, it must identify only the maintenance and inspection activities required as part of the annual service, with the associated costs allocated to the applicable units under the types bylaw. In addition, the bylaw and the agreement must clearly specify who is responsible for any repairs or damage associated with the heat pump.

Alteration agreements are contracts between a strata corporation and owners. A formatted agreement that applies equally to all owners is the best option to avoid the pitfalls.

Tony Gioventu is executive director of the Condominium Home Owners Association. Email tony@choa.bc.ca.

Related

• Condo Smarts: When a strata’s bidding process goes wrong
• Condo Smarts: Essential to keep strata bylaws accurate and up to date

For a plant that’s such an iconic part of our festive decorations, the Christmas cactus is surprisingly sensitive when it comes to flowering well. Put this beloved houseplant in the wrong spot in your home and its flowerbuds could even drop off – yes, every last precious one! So, it pays to know what conditions will keep your Christmas cactus happy, and the common spots that will likely lead to a dramatic bud drop and zero holiday blooms.

When we think of cacti, most of us naturally picture a dry desert environment baking under a scorching sun. But Christmas cacti evolved to live in the rainforests of Brazil, where they thrive in damp air and dappled sunlight. They don’t grow in soil in the ground but cling to tree branches or shady rock crevices, their roots anchored in small pockets of decomposing leaves. And that’s a far cry from living in a pot of soil in the dry air of our well-heated homes – which is why Shlumbergera can be so persnickety about the conditions they require to flower well.

Once you appreciate why your plant is so fussy, it’s easy to give a Christmas cactus everything it needs in November and December to swell its buds into bounteous blooms. And if you’ve gone to the effort of persuading a Christmas cactus to bloom right on time for the holidays, don't waste all your hard work by putting your plant in the wrong spot now! For a glorious cascade of flowering stems to add to your holiday decor, these are the five spots to avoid.

1. In a Dark Hallway or Corner

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Developing buds and blooms require a tremendous amount of energy, and a Christmas cactus gets 100% of this from sunlight. While Shlumbergera needs regular periods of dark to set its buds, as soon as you spot those tiny dots of color on the stem ends, the plant needs to be moved to get more light, otherwise it won’t have enough energy to develop them into flowers.

The type of light is important, too. Because Christmas cacti naturally live in a rainforest under a canopy of leaves, indirect sunlight is best. That simply means putting your plant in a bright, sunny room but in a spot where it’s not directly hit by sunlight. East- and west-facing rooms are typically best for high levels of indirect light to get a Christmas cactus to flower well.

If there’s not enough natural light in the spot you’d like your plant to be, then a basic dimmable LED grow light such as this from Walmart is the easy answer.

2. Where it May Get Knocked or Moved

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

We know that adequate light is vital if a Christmas cactus is to flower, and in the rainforest beneath a dense tree canopy, sunshine is a precious commodity. So Shlumbergera buds lock onto the direction light is coming from – and if you then move the plant, buds will twist towards the changed light source. This sudden environmental shift stresses the plant and buds will likely drop off.

This phototropism only begins once the flowerbuds start to form a teardrop shape or reach around ¼ inch long, so you have until then to decide exactly where to position your plant for the holidays. Even the slightest rotation causes the plant to waste energy on reorienting buds to the light source, so to get the best possible flower display, many folk draw a small pencil line on the pot and the surface it’s sitting on, so it’s easy to realign if it does get knocked. If you’re using a grow light, mark its position, too, and be careful not to move it.

3. By a Drafty Window or Doorway

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Once they’ve set their buds, Christmas cacti like a fairly even temperature of around 65-70°F, which happily is the cozy range most of us keep our homes heated to. In their native rainforest where temperatures are normally highly stable, a blast of cold air may herald a life-threatening freeze so can trigger the cactus to immediately enter survival mode. And it's pretty dramatic: if temperatures suddenly dip, Shlumbergera can react by ditching its buds or flowers to conserve energy so it can concentrate on keeping its core alive. This natural response happens just the same in a draft of cold air from a window or when an exterior door is opened and closed.

4. Next to a Fruit Bowl

Ripening fruit produces a harmless gas, ethylene. All fruit that can still ripen after picking – apples, pears, peaches, tomatoes and avocados as well as bananas – produce ethylene, and that’s the exact same gas a Christmas cactus emits when it’s stressed enough to enter survival mode. Understandable, then, that Shlumbergera are incredibly sensitive to this gas, and simply sitting next to a fruit bowl can be enough to trigger Christmas cactus bud drop.

5. Near a Heating Vent, Radiator or Fireplace

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As this plant naturally evolved to grow in a humid environment, Christmas cacti can really struggle in the dry, heated air of our homes to start with. But place the plant anywhere near a heating vent, radiator or fireplace where the air is continually stripped of moisture, and stems will quickly dehydrate and buds brown, dropping off before the flowers even open. This is one of the most common reasons for a Christmas cactus not flowering as these houseplants are often put on a fireplace mantelpiece or windowsill above a radiator over the holidays.

So, positioning your Shlumbergera well away from any heat source is a must. Take the next step and give your plant the humidity it craves, however, and it will not only flower more profusely but those hydrated blooms will last for longer. Thanks to the regular steam from showers, cooking and kettles, bathrooms and kitchens typically have air that’s moist enough for a Christmas cactus to thrive and, in other rooms, a humidity tray is the solution.

Standing a Christmas cactus on a Bonsai pebble tray such as this from Lowe’s is ideal, or make your own with a plant saucer and pea gravel pebbles like this Landscape Rock from The Home Depot. The plant must sit on the pebbles above the water level so, rather than being drawn up into the potting soil, the water evaporates to add moisture to the air. Another simple way to increase air humidity is to group your Christmas cactus with other houseplants as they’ll form their own microclimate.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you've been wondering where to put a Christmas cactus, now you know the common places to rule out. It's well worth searching out just the right spot as when a Christmas cactus gets the sunlight, stability and humidity it needs as fall deepens into winter, you’ll be surprised how much more enthusiastically it flowers. Happy holidays!

A hosta in a garden bed has a lot of soil wrapped around its roots when the cold comes. Put that same hosta in a pot on the patio, though, and it's an entirely different story. Cold air reaches the roots from every side of the container, and even tough perennials and shrubs can experience winter damage that way.

The usual advice for overwintering container plants involves hauling pots into the garage or wrapping them up. But there's a cheaper option in the yard right now – the leaves piling up along the fence, waiting to get bagged for the curb.

This isn't the regular leaf mulch over the potting mix that it sounds like. Mulch on top does nothing for the pot walls. Dry leaves packed around the sides, in bags or inside a wire cage, put back some of the protection the ground would have given.

Why Fallen Leaves Can Protect Potted Plants From Frost

Garden soil cools down slowly, and roots in a bed sit inside a huge mass of it. Pots don't have much of that buffer at all, and the root ball can drop close to the outdoor air temperature. Roots are also less cold-hardy than the stems and buds above them. As a rule of thumb, treat a potted plant as if it were two growing zones colder than your yard.

So what do the leaves actually do? Squeeze a handful of dry ones, and you'll notice how much of it is just air. Still air doesn't carry heat away from a pot very fast. A sunny afternoon can thaw the edge of a root ball – then it freezes hard again overnight, and that back-and-forth can tear roots and shove plants up out of the mix. The leaves slow those swings down.

So, there are two ways you can use fallen leaves to insulate pots, both using leaves against the pot walls.

(Image credit: Malorny /Getty Images)Method 1: Make Insulating Bags of Leaves

Start with dry, fairly clean leaves, removing any sticks or diseased foliage. Loosely fill sturdy garden bags or old feed sacks – don't stomp the leaves down. The extra space lets air circulate, and that’s what does the work. Walmart sells a three-pack of reusable 72-gallon leaf bags that stand 30 inches (76 cm) tall – taller than the rims of many patio pots.

Cluster the pots against a wall of the house, on the ground instead of a deck rail or plant stand. Water them well before the soil freezes, since moist potting mix holds heat better than dry mix. Then line the bags up snugly around the outside of the group. Leave the foliage uncovered, and keep a gap to check that the soil isn't soggy and the drainage holes are clear. You can lift any bag whenever a pot needs moving.

Method 2: Make a Leaf-Filled Protective Cage

For one big pot, or a few crowded close together, try a wire cage. Bend chicken wire or flexible garden fencing into a loose ring around them, with several inches of space between the wire and the pot. The Otryad 36-inch galvanized chicken wire roll from Home Depot will do the job, and it snips to fit.

Pour the leaves loosely into the gap, up to about the rim, keeping them off green foliage. A light cage can tip in wind. Pin its bottom edge down with 12-inch steel landscape staples.

After heavy rain or snowmelt, check the leaves in the middle. Wet, flattened leaves don't trap much air anymore, and they hold moisture against the pot, so swap them for dry ones. Take the cage down in spring, after the last hard freeze.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Which Potted Plants Benefit Most?

This trick works best for plants that are hardy where you live but have their roots stuck above ground.

• Hostas need a cold, dormant winter, so bringing them indoors isn't the answer. Leaves around the pot shield dormant crowns and roots from repeated freezing and thawing.
• Heucheras (Coral Bells) are a good place to start. Their shallow crowns are prone to heaving when the mix freezes and thaws, so press any lifted crowns back down in late winter.
• Hydrangea roots stay protected inside the leaves, but bigleaf types carry next summer's flower buds on last year's stems, well above the bags. Those stems may need their own cover – Agfabric's 10-by-50-foot frost cloth can wrap them loosely when hard cold moves in.
• Roses, even those rated for your zone, can lose roots in a pot through a hard winter, especially in colder climates. Leaves cover the root zone while the canes stay in the open.
• Young Evergreen Shrubs like potted dwarf spruces and junipers keep losing water through their needles all winter. Don't bury the branches. Water once the mix thaws on a mild day.

(Image credit: Volker Luebke / 500px / Getty Images)When Fallen Leaves Won't Be Enough

Leaves don't generate heat; they simply slow the rate at which a pot loses its warmth. Citrus or a tender salvia ringed with leaf bags still gets hurt in a hard freeze. Those, along with tropicals and anything else outside its hardiness range, need a bright, frost-free spot indoors before the first frost.

Where winters get brutal, deep cold can outlast the leaves. Sink the pot to its rim in a garden bed instead, or move it into an unheated garage or shed that stays roughly 35–45°F (2–7°C). Bamford Plant Caddies from Amazon will let you roll plants where you want them.

Those leaves were going to the curb anyway. Stacked in bags around the patio pots, they won't look like much, honestly. Any hydrangea that comes through winter with healthy roots won't need replacing, though, and nobody paid for the leaves.

When spring settles in, dump the bags over a garden bed or into the compost bin, and let the leaves break down there. Next fall, you'll have a new pile along the fence to start over with anyway.

For homeowners, November represents the last opportunity to prepare your backyard’s largest living feature for the rigors of winter. Yes, I’m talking about your lawn. The weather can change on a dime, and if you’re not careful, it can leave its mark all over your lawn. Depending on where you live, one week can mark the difference between lush grass and frozen turf.

Thankfully, these lawn care essentials are neither grueling nor time-consuming. Do these simple jobs now, and they will save you trouble and expense later. They will help to protect your turf over winter and give it the healthiest start next spring. From what to do with your mower to when to apply that last round of fertilizer, these pivotal lawn care tasks can help with any shape or size.

These tips can also help you whether you have warm or cool-season grasses to deal with. You just need to adapt the approach depending on which type you are growing. Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, and perennial ryegrass remain semi-active in November. But warm-season varieties such as Bermudagrass, Zoysia, and St Augustine are approaching dormancy. Here are the 6 key tasks you need to check off before the first true hard freeze locks your soil for the season.

Get Your Lawn Winter Ready

When freezing temperatures arrive, your lawn’s soil moisture solidifies, expanding underground and turning grass blades brittle. In severe cold snaps, winds can wick moisture, inducing winterkill. Conversely, heavy snow falling on debris-laden turf can create the stagnant breeding grounds favored by snow mold fungi. Keep your USDA hardiness zone and regional weather in mind with these tips, but try to think one step ahead of the worst-case scenario so you don’t get caught out.

(Image credit: Somnuk Krobkum / Getty Images)

Before diving into these tasks, it’s important to check your soil temperature. Turf reacts to ground conditions, with root growth in cool-season lawns tapering off once soil temperatures plunge below 45°F (7°C). Second, verify that your mower blades are sharp. Dull mower blades can shred dormant grass tips, leaving wounds that turn brown, lose moisture, and invite cold-weather fungal pathogens. If you haven’t got one, the Sharpal 103N All-In-One Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener from Amazon is a great-value gadget for restoring razor-sharp cutting edges.

Spending just an hour or so on late-fall lawn preparation right now will really pay off when the warm spring weather returns. It also gives your grass all the help it needs to get through the sleet, wind, frost and snow that could be waiting just round the corner. Whatever your growing zone and grass species, here’s what you need to do to get your grass fully winter-ready!

1. Clear Fallen Leaves To Prevent Smothering

(Image credit: Nieriss / Shutterstock)

Allowing heavy leaves to carpet your turf over winter is one of the quickest ways to ruin a healthy sward. This is a vital task for all types of turf, whether your grass is going dormant for the winter or not. For grass that is still growing, thick layers of leaves block sunlight and energy production. For grasses in any stage of growth or dormancy, leaves can trap moisture, restrict airflow, and encourage disease. Left unchecked, smothering leaves will suffocate entire sections of turf, leaving bare, dead zones by spring.

Your removal strategy should match the volume of fallen leaf cover. For light to moderate leaf scatter, use a mulching mower and let the nutrients fall naturally into the ground. However, if your yard is buried under dense, wet blankets from mature oaks or maples, rake or blow them off immediately. If you’re after a good rake, the True Temper Clog-Free 24-inch Poly Leaf Rake from Walmart is durable and reliable and won’t tear at late-season turf. Collect the leaves for rich leaf mold or vegetable garden mulch. Focus extra attention on perimeter fence lines and low dips in the lawn, where fall winds can quickly create suffocating drifts.

2. Give Your Lawn its Final Cut

(Image credit: Liudmila Chernetska / Getty Images)

Timing your final mow comes down to knowing your grass type, and considering the weather. In northern regions, cool-season grasses (fescues, bluegrass, ryegrass) continue growing until ambient soil temperatures consistently sit below 40°F (4°C). So they could still be growing in November if the weather is mild, but plan for a last cut soon. In the south, warm-season lawns (Bermuda, St. Augustine, Zoysia) have ceased upward growth and could be dormant already, so your last cut may already have happened.

When making a final cut, aim for a medium length. Cutting grass too short will leave the lawn more vulnerable to stress over winter, exposing tender root crowns to frost heaving and biting winds. Conversely, leaving turf overly tall causes long blades to fold over under heavy snow or winter rain, forming dense mats that trap moisture and increase the risk of disease. Aim for a final height of 2-2.5 inches (5-6cm) for cool-season lawns, and 2 inches (5cm) for warm-season lawns.

Once complete, hose down the underside of the mower deck, empty the fuel tank or run the carburetor dry, and store your mower away clean. Buy Sta-Bil Storage Fuel Stabilizer Fluid from The Home Depot to help keep leftover fuel fresh while mowers are stored in winter and give effortless startups next spring.

3. Apply a Final Feed (If Appropriate)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Late-fall lawn fertilization can be either beneficial or destructive, depending on the species of grass you cultivate. For cool-season turf, late fall is often considered the most important feeding of the year. Cool-season roots remain active, absorbing nitrogen and potassium. So this last infusion of nutrients supports strong root development and helps encourage early spring green-up and drought resistance. Buy Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard from Lowe’s for a slow-release boost to cool-season roots.

Timing depends on location. In some areas, November may be too late for a last application. Apply fertilizer only while the grass is still green and before the ground freezes solid. If you’re unsure, contact your local extension office for guidance. Meanwhile, warm-season grasses should not be fed in November. They are entering dormancy or are already dormant. Nutrients added now could trigger new growth that have zero cold tolerance, leaving the turf vulnerable to winterkill during sudden freezes. Wait until spring to feed your warm-season turf.

4. Adjust Watering Routines & Winterize Irrigation Systems

(Image credit: The_Burtons / Getty Images)

Cooler weather and shorter daylight hours reduce your lawn’s evaporation rates. Continuing to run summer lawn watering schedules through November wastes water and runs the risk of waterlogging. If your cool-season turf is green and receiving less than an inch of natural rainfall per week, you only need to provide occasional deep waterings. Irrigate only when the top two inches (2cm) of soil feel dry to the touch, and irrigate during morning hours so grass blades dry before nightfall.

Do think about winterization with watering, too. Trapped water in underground pipes, sprinkler bodies, and backflow preventers expands upon freezing, cracking brass valves and rupturing poly lines. Turn off the main water shutoff valve, deactivate the controller, and blow out the lines using a commercial air compressor, or open manual drain valves. Disconnect, drain, and coil all garden hoses, storing them indoors. Leaving a pressurized hose attached to an outdoor spigot traps water inside the sillcock, leading to burst interior pipes during winter freezes.

You can get Frost King FC1 Foam Faucet Covers from Walmart in double packs. Durable, weather-sealed expanded polystyrene shells with rubber cinch ties that insulate exterior spigots against freeze damage.

5. Deal with Bare Patches in the Turf

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Spotting thin, bare patches in your lawn during November is frustrating, but rushing out with a bag of standard seed and fertilizer is usually a waste of time and money. Across most northern and transitional zones, soil temperatures have dropped below the 50-55°F (10-13°C) threshold required for grass seed germination. Seed spread now will absorb moisture, fail to sprout, rot in cold mud, or be devoured by birds. Similarly, warm-season varieties cannot establish from seed in late fall.

Use November to diagnose and prep. Determine why the patch developed: is it compacted soil from a high-traffic shortcut, poor drainage, pet urine, or heavy tree shade? Aerate the bald soil with a hand cultivator, incorporate a light dusting of compost, and make a plan for early spring overseeding. If you live in an area with reliable, long-lasting winter snow cover, you can experiment with dormant seeding. Spread cool-season seed over the prepped soil just before the first big snowfall. The seed will remain dormant over winter, and the freeze-thaw cycles work the seeds into the dirt for uniform germination during the first warm days of March.

6. Protect Grass from Winter Damage

(Image credit: Santiago Urquijo / Getty Images)

Grass enters a vulnerable state in dormancy, and plants lose their natural elasticity. Walking, driving, or playing on frosted or frozen turf fractures brittle leaf blades and crushes delicate crowns. This creates winter lawn damage like marks and ruts that will not heal until active growth resumes in spring. Plan to keep people and pets off the grass for the next few months. Move playsets and heavy equipment off the lawn.

Another source of damage in winter is rock salt on nearby driveways and sidewalks. This can run off into lawn edges, drawing moisture away from grass roots and creating toxic soil conditions. So transition to plant-safe de-icing compounds. You can buy Natural Alternative Ice Melt from Amazon, which is safer for lawns and pet paws. Finally, avoid late-season core aeration or power dethatching, which can do more harm than good as grass prepares for winter.

(Image credit: Maksym Belchenko / Getty Images)

Not every November lawn task will be required for every yard. It comes down to understanding your grass type, watching the weather forecast, and focusing on clearing leaves, timing a final cut, managing water correctly, and limiting traffic over vulnerable winter grass. Tackle these chores now to protect your grass over winter and to give it the best chance at a healthy, strong start next spring.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Charlotte York – ahem, I mean Kristin Davis of Sex and the City fame – recently showed off a Thanksgiving centerpiece that would look perfect on any table this fall.

Much like Catherine Zeta-Jones, Kristin has taken a DIY approach to her Thanksgiving decor, using homegrown pumpkins in a very different way to the usual tried-and-tested Halloween methods.

In the clip (which you can watch here), Kristin can be seen tucking a glass jar of sunflowers into a gutted pumpkin, transforming it into a vase. And, if you're interested in copying the look, I've consulted a few experts to help.

Shop A Cheat Version Of Kristin Davis's Pumpkin Vase:

Ninehaoou Ceramic Pumpkin Vase

Thyle Thanksgiving Pumpkin Vases

Tiangrid Tiangrid 3 Pack Thanksgiving Pumpkin Vase Table Centerpiece Fall Resin Vase | 1 Large & 2 Small Fall Vases Floral Containers for Fall Table Centerpieces (white, L6.7×5.5, S5.9×4.7, Classic)

1. Start With The Right Pumpkin

(Image credit: Kyrylo Syvun / Getty Images)

If you want to steal Kristin Davis's Thanksgiving decor for yourself, the trick is to treat the pumpkin as a container, not a planter.

“Choose a firm, unblemished pumpkin, cut the top wide enough to fit a glass jar, and scoop the inside completely clean, because leftover pulp shortens the life of both the pumpkin and the flowers,” says Morgan Brooks, founder and editor of Plant Style Home.

Nadi Melam, founder of Florals Memories, insists that you should “choose a pumpkin that’s flat with a large opening (slightly wider than it is tall, this will mean it’s lighter!)”.

2. Keep Your Water In A Jar

(Image credit: MaximFesenko)

The experts at Almondsbury Garden Centre insist that the jar element of Kristin Davis's Thanksgiving decor is non-negotiable. “Once hollowed out, place a glass jar or small watertight container inside to hold the water,” they say.

“This is important as pouring water directly into the pumpkin can cause it to soften and rot more quickly.” Brooks adds a practical bonus, saying “it lets you change the water every two days without disturbing the arrangement, which matters more for freshness than any floral preservative”.

Melam says most leaks and wilting come down to the same few things, all of which can be staved by the jar. “Dry off the pumpkin, choose a tight-fitting jar, remove all the leaves below the water line, and you will solve most of your problems.”

3. Prep The Sunflowers

(Image credit: Leong Seikchoong / FOAP / Getty Images)

When it comes to filling your pumpkin vase, Melam has a tip for choosing your flowers, saying, “The most beautiful flower in the shop is the one with the least amount of time left in its life.” Look for buds that are just opening, because “when the bud first begins to open, there is still its prime to come.”

At home, Brooks says to “Cut the stems at a sharp angle, strip every leaf that would sit below the waterline, and condition them in warm water for an hour before arranging.”

Your next step is to build around your arrangement. “Sunflowers carry heavy heads on thick stems, so place them first as the structure of the arrangement and fill around them with smaller fall flowers and foliage,” says Brooks.

4. Keep It Low

(Image credit: VICUSCHKA / Getty Images)

Reilly Renwick, designer and creative lead of State of the Wall, says the secret to recreating Kristin Davis's Thanksgiving decor is a tight palette. He says, “The key is to keep it thematic. Not just fall-themed, but dialed into a specific palette of colors that complement each other instead of standing out individually without coherence.” He does have one warning: “Fall colors are, to no fault of their own, awfully close to compost colors.”

Because sunflowers are so large, he suggests pairing them with “smaller blossoms, like alstroemeria, gypsophila, or small roses.” And don’t let the arrangement block the view across the table. “If in doubt, just keep it at 12 inches or shorter,” says Renwick.

5. Use Your Own Garden

(Image credit: Olena Belevantseva / Shutterstock)

The pumpkin fades first, so Melam advises making it ahead of time: “I’d suggest you put this together a day or two in advance and keep it in a cool place until needed.”

To keep costs down, raid your own garden. “If you have zinnias in your garden, your problems are solved,” says Renwick, who also recommends dahlias, marigolds, asters, and mums. Almondsbury suggests, “Using flowers and foliage from your own garden, such as autumn asters, dahlias and ornamental grasses, and adding just a couple of sunflowers for impact.”

When Thanksgiving is over, Melam says you can “Compost the pumpkin and save your favorite flowers.”

Shop Thanksgiving Decor Essentials:

Artgar Pumpkin Decor Set

Amagic Flameless Tea Lights Candles

Socomi Fall Table Runner

Kristin Davis’s centerpiece is appealing due to its simplicity; not everything needs to be super showy and over the top to steal the show at the Thanksgiving table.

When shopping for new perennials, you’ll often find the choice of potted or bare-root plants. Bare-roots are dug up while dormant and shipped without soil around their roots. Since they’re lighter, they’re easier and less expensive to ship – which is why many plants sold online arrive bare-root.

But bare-root planting isn't all about saving money. Planting during dormancy lets plants focus more energy on developing strong, healthy roots. Cooler temperatures and often rainier conditions are ideal for many bare-root plants, minimizing stress during the transfer.

While there are many reasons to add bare-root plants to your garden in fall or spring, it's best to give them four to six weeks to establish roots before the ground freezes. This is later than your first frost date, as the soil usually takes longer to freeze. Check when the ground is likely to freeze in your area before choosing and buying bare-root perennials.

If you're out of time for the season, late winter or early spring is another great time to do this. However, it's worth ordering your plants in fall, as many nurseries sell out of popular varieties well before spring. You can often order now for delivery at the right planting time.

How to Plant Bare-Root Perennials

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

When your perennials arrive, their roots should be wrapped in moist material. Keep them wrapped until you’re ready to plant to prevent the roots from drying out or becoming stressed. First, choose the right location based on the plant’s soil, moisture, and sunlight needs. Then, prepare the soil by pulling weeds, loosening it, and adding compost.

Once you’re ready to plant, unwrap the roots and inspect them. The roots should be firm and plump. Trim off any mushy, brittle, or moldy roots, but avoid cutting into healthy roots. If the roots aren’t very moist, soak them in water for 30 to 60 minutes before planting.

Plant the roots in a hole large enough to fit them and let them spread out, following the recommended planting depth for each plant. Before planting, sprinkle a mycorrhizal fungi inoculant, such as Xtreme Gardening Mykos Mycorrhizae from Amazon, directly over the roots and in the planting hole. These beneficial fungi form partnerships with the roots of many perennials, helping them absorb water and nutrients.

Backfill the hole with soil, gently firming it around the roots to remove any large air pockets. Give the plant a thorough watering to help settle the soil, and continue watering as needed to keep it moist until the ground freezes. Finally, apply a light layer of mulch around the plant to help retain moisture and protect the roots from temperature fluctuations over winter.

1. Peonies

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Peonies bloom with large, beautiful flowers in late spring or early summer, and they are among the longest-lived of all garden perennials. This makes bare-root peonies an excellent investment. Plant peonies in an area with fertile soil, excellent drainage, and full sun.

Fall is a good time for bare-root peonies. Plant them so the eyes, the small growth buds, sit 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.0 cm) below the soil surface. Planting them too deeply will prevent flowering.

Eden Brothers currently has a sale on peony roots, and my pick is this beautiful Pastel Mix Collection. Or try the Jumbo Mix for the most flamboyant flowers.

2. Daylilies

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Another popular flowering perennial, daylilies are adaptable, forgiving, and easy to grow. They flower in summer, with each bloom lasting only a day, but with an ongoing parade of new flowers for weeks.

Eden Brothers' Fragrant Rebloomer Mix is a great place to start, or for containers, the Stella de Oro Daylilies from Burpee are small but impactful.

Plant daylilies in full sun or partial shade in well-drained soil. They generally do well when planted as bare roots in fall, but allow them a few weeks to establish before the ground freezes over. Otherwise, wait until spring. Plant the crown no deeper than one inch (2.5 cm) below the soil.

3. Bearded Irises

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

This classic perennial blooms in late spring and early summer with some of the garden's most striking flowers. Their frilled petals on top of tall stalks come in many colors – I adore these pastel coral-pink Beverly Sills Irises from Burpee, as well as these pale blue Sea Double irises.

Bare-root bearded irises come as root rhizomes that you can plant four to six weeks before the first hard freeze. Plant them in full sun and soil that drains very well. If you live in a region with cold winters, timing is essential. If it’s too late now, wait until spring. When planting, lay the rhizomes horizontally in the soil, with the upper surface just barely covered.

4. Oriental Poppies

(Image credit: Catharina E Insley / Shutterstock)

Like irises, oriental poppies offer frilled, colorful, and striking flowers on stately stems. They add drama and structure to beds with late-spring and early-summer blooms in shades of bright orange and red, and even pink and white. They grow best in full sun and well-drained soil.

As long as they have time to establish, you can successfully plant bare-root poppies in fall, though these stunning Harlem Oriental Poppy Roots from Jackson & Perkins will ship in the spring. Take care when choosing a location for poppies. They develop long taproots that don’t transplant well.

5. Astilbe

(Image credit: Julija Kumpinovica / Getty Images)

Astilbe plants are known for their plumes of feathery flowers that bloom in shades of red, purple, pink, and white in summer. Astilbe thrives in partial shade, or even more shade, and rich, moist soil. Younique Pink Astilbe from Burpee is a lovely compact variety for containers, while Mighty Chocolate Cherry Astilbe from Jackson & Perkins reaches over 6 feet, making it a striking border option.

You can plant bare-root astilbes in fall if they have enough time to establish, or in the spring. Plant to a depth that keeps the crown at soil level.

6. Bleeding Heart

(Image credit: Amar Rai / Getty Images)

This is another shade-friendly perennial suited to woodland gardens and beds with partial or full shade. Bleeding heart blooms in spring with characteristic heart-shaped flowers that hang from gracefully arching stems. Choose a spot with moist but well-drained soil.

Bleeding hearts don’t tolerate being moved very well, so choose your spot carefully. Get them in the ground in fall with plenty of time to establish. The crown should be one to two inches below the soil surface with the eyes facing up.

Eden Brothers sells Bleeding Heart Roots Mix to preorder for spring, or pick up a bleeding heart bare-root from Spring Hill Nurseries at Walmart for fall planting.

Shop Bare-Root Perennials

Peony Roots – Pastel Mix

Daylily Roots – Fragrant Rebloomer Mix

Sea Double Iris Bare Roots

Harlem Oriental Poppy

Younique Pink Astilbe Bare Root

Spring Hill Nurseries Bleeding Heart Bare Root Perennial

Bare-root perennials are a good investment if you take the time to plant them right. They cost less than potted plants and can give you years of reliable blooms with good care. If you’ve missed the fall window for planting these in your region, make your selections over the winter and order them for a spring planting, another excellent time for most bare-root plants.

A rainy week in fall can turn a full feeder into a clump of wet, sour seed that's unsafe for birds to eat and a waste of your hard-earned money. A few simple changes to your bird feeding set-up to keep seed dry, however, keeps both your feathered friends and your bank balance a lot happier.

A backyard feeder can still look full from the kitchen window after a couple of rainy days in a row, but get closer and you'll see the seed inside has darkened and packed into a wet plug above the ports. In some cases, you can dry out the seed, but soggy birdseed costs more than the price of the bag. Damp seed quickly grows mold and fungi, some that release harmful toxins that can cause fatal infections in these beneficial garden friends. Wet grain also gives harmful bacteria an easy start and parasites a place to survive, turning a crowded feeder into a disease hotspot. Some seed decays into a mush that small birds can't safely digest, too.

So, knowing when it's safe to dry bird seed, and how to keep it from getting soaked in the first place, is an essential part of feeding birds through fall and winter.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Can I Dry Out Wet Birdseed?

Good seed isn't cheap and you'll find plenty of bird-feeding advice online recommending spreading wet grains on a tray to dry out. That suggestion comes with a catch, however. If the birdseed got damp in a recent rainfall just after you filled the feeder an hour ago, then go ahead and dry it out so you can feed it to your garden birds. However, seed that's been sitting soaked inside a feeder or has been out in all weathers for days is likely contaminated, and there's no good evidence that drying makes contaminated seed safe again.

You see, if a bag of birdseed just got wet on the garage floor an hour ago, a gust blew rain across the scoop on the way to the feeder, or the bag sat open by the door during a drizzle, you know that seed is likely still clean. But seed in a feeder is a different story: birds have been perching on it and leaving droppings, harmful bacteria may be multiplying in the damp conditions, or parasites and pathogens may be present. So, the safer call is always to throw soggy birdseed out.

How Do I Dry Out Damp Birdseed?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you're confident the birdseed is clean and only recently wetted, spread it on a clean baking tray or fine mesh screen, one seed deep if you can, and leave it to dry indoors in a warm room where the air moves. A rimmed baker's pan like this from Walmart keeps seed from rolling off. Stir the seed occasionally and, once it pours loosely again, it's safe to feed. If the seed smells at all musty or shows any fuzz while it's drying, though, toss it out.

Should I Throw Wet Birdseed Away?

It's an easy call to throw out birdseed if it's moldy, clumped together, smells musty or sour, or looks darker or discolored compared to when it went into the feeder. But even if the seed still looks normal, it may still carry mold or bacteria which can affect bird health – fungi can grow inside a seed's shell and often there's nothing on the outside to give it away. So, if you ever find yourself wondering is wet birdseed safe, bag it up for the trash and keep your backyard birds safe.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Do I Need to Clean a Soaked Feeder?

Bird experts recommend cleaning a bird feeder every 1-2 weeks in winter, and it's wise to clean it whenever it gets soaked through, too. It's a good idea to give your feeders a quick look after any heavy rain: if the seed doesn't shift freely when you tip the feeder to one side, it needs cleaning. The more often you clean a feeder, the quicker and easier the job becomes, especially if you use diluted white vinegar to clean bird feeders, so it needn't be a chore.

Empty out the wet seed, take the feeder apart and scrub each piece in hot, soapy water. It's easier with a long brush with straight and curved ends like this Songbird Essentials 2-in-1 feeder cleaning brush from Walmart. Clear each drainage hole with a toothpick, too. Rinse thoroughly then let every piece dry completely before refilling and hanging up the feeder. Rake up any wet seed and hulls under the feeder as well.

How to Stop Birdseed Getting Wet

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Of course, the best solution to one of the most common bird-feeding problems is to prevent the seed getting wet in the first place. Many hanging feeders come with a dome or rain guard that sits above the seed tube to keep the worst of the rain off the ports, but they're rarely big enough to provide effective protection. Adding a more robust layer of protection, like this bird feeder rain guard from Amazon that comes in either a 16-inch or 19-inch diameter design with a snap hook to clip the feeder on underneath, is far more effective and doubles as a squirrel baffle, too. For a hopper feeder, look for a design with a roof that overhangs the ports and has drainage holes in the base or, on a tray feeder, a mesh bottom that lets rainwater run straight through.

Practical & pretty

Beserie Hanging Bird Feeder Rain Cover & Squirrel Baffle

Robust Rain dome

GBekery Metal Bird Feeder With Weatherproof Dome

Mesh Base

Birds Choice Eco-Friendly Hopper Bird Feeder With Removable Roof

Keep feeders away from roof edges and gutters where runoff pours straight down, and during wet spells, only put out as much seed as birds will finish quickly. Keep birdseed dry in storage, too, by using a lidded container that mice can't chew into like Behrens Galvanized Steel Can from Home Depot.

Making sure you don't leave soggy birdseed in feeders is an important part of helping backyard birds survive winter. Just like taking steps to stop your bird bath freezing over, this is an easy job for us gardeners that's hugely beneficial for our feathered friends. There are so many ways to feed birds through fall and winter, from planting a berry-bearing shrub to feed birds through winter to saving kitchen scraps and using the lard-smear trick that makes sure smaller songbirds get their fair share of food, and it's a joy to help our garden visitors. But if you're choosing to offer a nutritious supply of grains, do make sure you're not serving up any fatal fungal spores alongside by keeping birdseed dry.

All hail native perennials! They are, after all, the easiest way to create a garden that comes back year after year, growing fuller, more colorful and more beautiful with each passing season, right?

No gardener worth their salt wants to start all their hard work from scratch every spring, and why should they? If you can build a garden that gradually finds its rhythm, with established plants returning reliably, filling out their spaces and creating a landscape that feels more natural and abundant over time, it's a no-brainer to make native plants your mode of attack!

Perennials are especially wonderful plants to build that kind of garden around; if you go native, they can deal with local conditions, making them relatively easy to grow once established. They also offer something beyond good looks, providing food and habitat for bees, butterflies, birds and other wildlife.

7 Native Perennials for a Garden That Looks Better Each Year

From cheerful summer blooms to delicate grasses, birth month perennials to lush woodland foliage, these seven natives bring a lovely mix of color, texture and seasonal interest.

Plant them in the right conditions, give them time to establish, and they'll reward you with a garden that gets better with every growing season. You can't say better than that, right?

1. Coneflowers

(Image credit: Katarzyna Derbich / Shutterstock)

Coneflowers are one of those plants that make a garden feel instantly more welcoming. Their daisy-like flowers are drought-tolerant and able to withstand an awful lot of neglect, which shifts them firmly into the almost too-good-to-be-true category of native perennials.

For a particularly beautiful display, go for the Magnus Purple Coneflower from Nature Hills; it promises big bold blooms that never droop, and its flowers attract useful pollinators, while the seedheads provide a valuable food source for birds later in the season, not to mention lots of structure and interest through the colder months.

2. Coreopsis

(Image credit: Thrillerfillerspiller / Alamy)

If you love a garden filled with sunny color, coreopsis is a wonderful native perennial to consider. Its cheery flowers look delicate, but these little bloomers are tough and incredibly drought-tolerant... even if you're garden gets to that point in the summer when it resembles a frying pan.

I especially love the Moonbeam (available at Nature Hills), which produces masses of buttery-yellow flowers over a long summer flowering season. Its understated colour makes it particularly useful for combining with stronger shades of purple, pink and orange.

3. Pink Cloud Muhly Grass

(Image credit: Inna Reznik / Shutterstock)

Not every plant in a beautiful native perennial garden needs to produce traditional flowers; sometimes, it's the texture, movement and changing seasonal appearance of a plant that make it special. And pink muhly grass? Well, this pretty cloud-like ornamental brings all three to the table, and then some.

Bag yourself some from Nature Hills and plant it in a sunny position with well-drained soil. Once established, you'll find that it is relatively drought-tolerant and doesn't require much fuss (so long as you avoid overly wet or poorly drained locations, particularly during winter).

4. Ostrich Fern

(Image credit: Manfred Ruckszio / Shutterstock)

A beautiful garden needs more than flowers, and an ostrich fern is an especially lovely choice if you dream of adding a lush woodland feel to your yard thanks to its feather-like fronds.

Unlike the sun-loving flowers elsewhere on this list, ostrich fern (which you can buy at Nature Hills) prefers a cooler, shadier position with consistently moist soil. In fact, like most ferns, it is usually at its happiest beneath trees or along the edges of shaded garden beds, so long as it has enough moisture.

5. Bee Balm

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Bee balm is always an excellent addition to a garden, as its shaggy flowers are packed full of color and nectar, making them very popular with hummingbirds (and therefore a great way to try and lure your birth month hummingbird into play).

For a native planting, Monarda fistulosa, commonly known as wild bergamot, promises lavender-pink flowers with a fantastic aroma. If you prefer a more dramatic splash of color, the Jacob Cline variety is all about those bright red blooms, while the Spotted Bee Balm does exsctly what it says on the tin.

Shop Bee Balm:

KVITER Spotted Bee Balm Heirloom Flower Seeds

Perennial Farm Marketplace Perennial Farm Marketplace Monarda D. 'jacob Cline' (bee Balm) Perennial, Size-#1 Container, Red Flowers

KVITER 1,000 Wild Bergamot Heirloom Flower Seeds

6. Black-Eyed Susan

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Few perennials bring as much cheerful late-summer color as black-eyed Susan. Its golden-yellow petals are basically sunshine in floral form, and they are brilliant for filling out borders in hotter, drier conditions... not to mention blooming for months on end.

It grows best in full sun, tolerates a range of soil conditions and is all but catnip to pollinators. Well worth splashing out on something like the Glitters Like Gold Black - Eyed Susan from Nature Hills so you can sit back and watch it do its thing.

7. Anise Hyssop

(Image credit: Willowpix/Getty Images)

Anise hyssop is one of those gorgeous lavender dupes that offers something lovely in almost every respect. It has attractive aromatic foliage, tall flower spikes, a wonderful ability to attract pollinators, and some USDA Zones may find that this one keeps on going until the end of October (especially if you deadhead spent flowers).

CATMINT Sacred Roots Nursery Anise Hyssop

Anise hyssop is a brilliant wildlife-friendly plant that keeps blooming all fall.

Try planting anise hyssop alongside coneflowers, coreopsis and black-eyed Susans (all of which appear on this list, handily!) for a colorful and super pollinator-friendly border with plenty of height and texture.

One of the greatest pleasures of growing native perennials is watching a garden develop over time. Just take care to choose plants that suit your garden's conditions rather than trying to make every plant grow in the same environment if you go down this route.

It's also worth combining plants with different flowering seasons, not to mention leaving some seedheads standing for winter interest. Over time, you'll find that your garden doesn't just look better for it; you'll also find that it needs less intervention and begins to take on a character of its own as familiar flowers return each spring, pollinators visit throughout summer, and new combinations of color and texture emerge.

Are native perennials basically a miracle plant, then? Well, no... but they're as close to one as you're ever likely to get! Anything with a 'plant, sit back, relax' vibe to it is always going to prove a winner over time.

Some of the best gardening tips never make it onto a seed packet. They come from people who've worked the same ground for years and notice what the rest of us walk past – like how a tomato leaf changes color before trouble starts.

I recently stumbled across a fascinating piece of gardening history that feels just as relevant today as it did when it was written. Back in 2013, Amish farmer Joni Miller sent Modern Farmer a 45-page handwritten essay on organic gardening and farming, packed with diagrams and advice on everything from compost to certification paperwork. All he asked in return was a two-year subscription.

Much of what Miller wrote will sound familiar to organic growers. Some of it surprised me, though, and it's fascinating to see how well his ideas line up with newer research. These are the eight lessons I found most interesting, and how to use each one at home.

1. Learn to Read Your Plants – They're Telling You What They Need

(Image credit: burapa / Getty Images)

Miller suggests making a little chart of leaf colors, and I love the idea of reading a vegetable bed that way. For tomatoes and eggplant, he says lower leaves that yellow once the plants start bearing give up their potassium to the fruit. A black, rotting spot on a tomato's bottom – aka blossom-end rot – in his experience, means poor calcium uptake.

Newer research largely agrees, though each symptom has other causes, too. Lower leaves also yellow from a nitrogen shortage, plain old age, or early blight (Alternaria linariae). Blossom-end rot does come from calcium not reaching the fruit, but the soil usually has plenty, and uneven watering tends to be the real trouble. I'd sort that out before buying fertilizer.

2. Pay Attention to Your Weeds – They Could Reveal Problems with Your Soil

(Image credit: Md Sojibul Islam/Getty Images)

The weed section grabbed me most. Miller noticed foxtail and other grassy weeds sprouting better in tight, high-magnesium soils, and lambsquarters surging after heavy turkey manure. Velvetleaf liked rich ground, Canada thistle faded once soil was loose and cultivated, and pastures full of dandelions never grew lush. As he puts it, "Reading soils by their weeds is an art!"

Researchers read weeds the same way today, as clues with wiggle room. Weeds tolerate a range of conditions, so dandelions might mean compacted soil and chickweed might mean wet ground, or a neighbor's seed heads might just be blowing your way. Then confirm with a soil test, using a home kit that you send to a lab, like the MySoil Soil Test Kit, available on Amazon.

3. Catch Garden Pests When They're Young and Vulnerable

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Miller's pest advice starts with life cycles, using squash bugs (Anasa tristis) as his example. The nymphs that hatch look like little spiders and start out soft. Each molt hardens them, and by the later ones, he found few organic sprays could touch them. If oil can't smother the eggs, his trick is to "target for those young spiderlings while they're easier prey."

That means turning squash leaves over. Look at the undersides, often in the crook between two veins, and you'll spot copper-brown egg clusters. Duct tape pulls them off easily. If a few nymphs get past you, insecticidal soap or neem oil, like Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil Spray, will knock them back, sprayed early or late, when bees are quieter. Adults, by then, are another story, and hand-picking works better on them.

4. Mulch with Alfalfa Hay to Feed Your Soil as Well as Suppress Weeds

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Straw mulch is nothing new, so Miller's note about greenhouse tomato growers using alfalfa hay caught my attention. It keeps weeds down, but the bigger benefit, he says, is that "the decomposing alfalfa feeds the vegetables with high-quality nutrients."

Modern studies hold that up. Alfalfa is a legume, so it has more nitrogen than straw and breaks down faster. It holds moisture, too. Once the soil warms, spread 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of weed-free hay around tomatoes and peppers, leaving a gap at the stems.

Ask if the hay field was sprayed, as some hay herbicides linger, and tomatoes are very sensitive. Can't find bales? Try using alfalfa meal instead, like Down to Earth organic alfalfa meal from Walmart.

5. Let Weeds Germinate Before Planting Your Crops

(Image credit: PavelRodimov / Getty Images)

I was surprised to learn you can time weeding with a thermometer. Miller counts heat units. You average each day's high and low, but a high over 90°F (32°C) only counts as 90, a low under 50°F (10°C) counts as 50, and you subtract 50. Weed seeds need about 60 units to germinate, he says, so he harrows right before that and starts back at zero with each new flush.

Weed researchers still study the same idea today, under the label stale seedbed, which is a funny name for it, honestly. Simply prepare the bed a few weeks early, water it, and wait for the first weeds, usually a week or two in warm soil. Slice them off in the top inch (2.5 cm) – digging deeper brings buried seeds up to sprout. WaLensee's stirrup-style action hoe from Home Depot suits that shallow work. Then sow without stirring the soil again.

6. Water Early and Keep the Air Moving to Prevent Disease

(Image credit: You are what you want to be / Getty Images)

This one sounded simple to me, and it is, just about. Miller waters his greenhouse plants in the forenoon, not the evening, and opens the vents on sunny days so plants don't stay damp. Fungal diseases, he warns, "explode in stale, damp environments."

Current advice backs him up. Picture tomatoes watered at dusk, still wet at midnight. That's where early blight and gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) get going. Water the soil in the morning instead, space and stake plants for airflow, and stay out of wet rows. Greenhouses need open vents or a fan, and patio pots need elbow room.

7. Grow Green Manure Crops to Restore Tired Garden Soil

(Image credit: Venars.original / Shutterstock)

For run-down soil, Miller says green manure crops really help, along with soil tests. Bare soil takes a beating from winter rain. A cover crop holds it with roots and shades out weeds, too. Turned in or left on top, it adds organic matter. Legumes like crimson clover and field peas also pull nitrogen from the air, with help from root bacteria.

This late in fall, I'd go with cereal rye. Oats and field peas want a late-summer start, and a cold winter usually finishes them off. Crimson clover, available from Outsidepride on Amazon, needs a few weeks of growth before hard frost – unless your winters are mild, that one's an early-fall job. In spring, cut the crop around flowering, before seed sets, then wait two to three weeks to plant.

8. Save Seeds from Your Best Plants to Develop a Garden That Thrives

(Image credit: Cindy Shebley / Alamy)

Farmers in Miller's community save back their own soybean seed, which he says "helps that variety to somewhat adapt to your farm's soil type." You don't need a farm for it. Save seed from several of your healthiest, most productive open-pollinated plants, not one favorite, and do it again the year after, too. Little by little, your seed comes from plants that thrive in your garden.

Beans, peas, lettuce, and tomatoes are the easy ones, because their flowers mostly pollinate themselves. Squash, cucumbers, and corn need isolation or hand-pollination, since bees and wind can cross them with nearby varieties. I'd skip F1 hybrids, though, since their seed can come up quite different. Dry your seeds well, then store them somewhere cool in labeled kraft paper seed envelopes.

Much of Miller's letter covers certification forms, buffer strips, and ice houses. But tucked in between are gardening ideas that today's research still backs up. Next season, I'm taking a slower look at my weeds and tomato leaves. You might notice things you've been walking past for years.

Wrapped in frost cloth or burlap, an old tomato cage becomes a cheap but effective shelter to protect plants this winter. All sorts of tender shrubs and perennials need winter protection, and temporarily shielding even hardy plants from the worst of the weather can help them thrive. So if you're about to pack away your tomato cages in the shed, stop – they've got another job to do now it's time to winterize garden plants this fall.

Pulling up tomato plants and stacking their cages in the shed until spring is one of the last big gardening jobs of the season. That's a lot of good wire sitting around in the dark all winter, and this trick puts it right back to work. Most gardens have a plant or two that struggles through the cold months, and overwintering plants usually means spending money on shrub covers, frost tents or frames, or insulating zip-up plant jackets built for the job. None of it costs much alone, but the outlay adds up across a whole bed and your old cage can do much of that same work to winterize plants.

This trick won't save everything, but for the right plants a tomato cage wrapped in frost cloth or burlap is a smart, cheap way to help your garden get through winter unscathed. So, if you're gardening on a budget and wondering how to protect plants in winter, here's the smart solution.

Why Tomato Cages Make Such Good Winter Plant Protectors

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Throw insulating fabric straight over a shrub and it settles right onto the leaves and buds, and cold will seep through wherever it touches. Wet snow is worse. Its weight can bend or snap branches under the cover. But put a tomato cage in there first and the fabric sits on the frame instead, with a little gap between cover and plant. This method also gives you a frame to fasten the fabric to so it stays put when the wind picks up.

How to Turn an Old Tomato Cage Into a DIY Frost Protector

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Start with the cage itself. You'll probably find dried leaves and sections of vine still wound through the wire. If last summer's plants had Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) or early blight (Alternaria solani), those scraps can carry it over, so pull every one out and disinfect by scrubbing the cage with diluted household bleach and a rinse.

Next comes the fit. Lower the clean cage over the plant and see where the branches end up. Any branch poking through the wire is, more or less, where the fabric will touch the plant later, so the stems need room inside. Push the legs down firmly and, out in an open, windy bed, tie it to a sturdy stake if needs be.

Now wrap the frame in breathable frost cloth or horticultural fleece: one Agfabric frost blanket, available from Home Depot, covers more than one cage. Fasten the fabric to the frame using clips like these stainless steel garden clips from Walmart. Take the fabric right down to the soil as warmth comes up out of the ground at night and a gap at the bottom lets it leak out. Pin the fabric to the ground with galvanized landscape staples like these from Walmart.

Skip plastic wrap, because the plant needs to breathe and a wrapped cage heats up fast on mild afternoons and damp, still air favors gray mold (Botrytis cinerea). Even without a waterproof wrap, peek underneath every few days and let some fresh air in if needs be. Once the cold snap is over, take the temporary covers off, leaving the frame in place ready for the next weather dip.

Which Plants Benefit Most From This Trick?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Depending on your USDA zone, the plants that need winterizing in fall aren't just those that aren't hardy enough to survive plummeting temperatures: you can use this trick to extend a crop or protect next year's flower show, too. Ever had a hydrangea leaf out nicely and then barely bloom? Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is the classic candidate because it forms next year's flower buds on old wood, and those buds sit on bare stems all winter. Hard freezes can kill these delicate buds so while the foliage comes through just fine the following year, blooms are few and far between.

Hybrid tea roses and perennials that are borderline hardy in your zone are good candidates too. If you've planted young shrubs this year – especially if you've been tempted by Black Friday sales on evergreen shrubs and you're planting late in fall – they'll also benefit from being kept cozy during cold snaps. Boxwood and other small evergreens can pick up winter burn from drying wind and sun, and burlap like this Wellco natural burlap roll at Home Depotcuts down on both without pressing on the foliage.

Of course, you'll need to match the plant to the cage size. But if you're planning to upgrade your tomato cages to use a more substantial modular tomato support set-up like these heavy-duty square tomato cages, also from Home Depot anyway, it makes sense to do so now when you can use them to protect bigger shrubs that need a wider frame.

For Extra Protection, Fill the Cage With Insulating Leaves or Straw

Once the plant goes dormant, usually after several hard frosts, a sturdy cage can be packed with loose insulation to provide further insulation too. Dry shredded leaves, straw or pine straw like this from Amazon is best. On a bigleaf hydrangea, you can fill right up around the buds, while roses mostly need the extra insulation over the crown and lower canes.

Keep that fill dry and loose. Leaves raked off a wet lawn and packed tight against living foliage or a crown stay soggy, and that can lead to rot, so let them dry out first before covering with frost fabric. In spring, pull out the fill a little at a time once the worst cold has passed.

What This Trick Won't Protect Against

Frost cloth doesn't make any heat of its own, but only slows the loss of warmth rising from the ground at night, buying a few degrees on a clear, still night. In a long, deep freeze, the soil underneath cools off too, and that leaves the cover less and less to work with. Truly tropical plants won't turn winter-hardy inside a wrapped cage, either: hibiscus and mandevilla belong indoors once nights turn chilly, well ahead of frost. In colder regions, some tender plants on the edge of hardiness still do better potted up and stored in a frost-free spot.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

For most of the year, a tomato cage has one job. But with a cozy comforter of frost cloth, a few clips and a bit of care, this garden staple picks up a second role in winter, sheltering plants that would otherwise need a store-bought cover and helping to ensure another flower-filled year in your garden. When spring comes, unwrap your precious plant, hose off the cage and send it back to the tomato bed. It's the same old cage pulling double duty, and this trick to reuse it over winter barely costs a dime.

Your peace lily (Spathiphyllum) may well have spent the early part of fall thriving in its regular corner with little more than a weekly drink. But this can all change sharply when November arrives. Suddenly, the lower leaves droop, that trademark glossy sheen can look dull, and the leaf tips might turn dry and brown, even if you haven't changed your routine. The real shift is taking place in the house around the plant, and that’s easy to miss when the plant hasn’t moved an inch.

Peace lilies are naturally resilient, but they are sensitive to environmental shifts. The days are shorter, the sunlight angles have dropped, and central heating systems are kicking into gear. Good peace lily care through winter is largely about keeping up with those changes. The good news is that the fixes are small. It’s just about recognizing that your plant’s needs change as winter starts to set in.

By tweaking your habits and pausing unnecessary chores that may have been essential just a month earlier, you can protect root health and ensure your peace lily remains a centerpiece of lush green calm throughout these next few chilly months. Not only will these adjustments protect your favorite houseplant in winter, they will help to set the stage for more striking white spathes come spring. So here’s how to keep your peace lily healthy once the heat comes on…

Winter-Proof Your Peace Lily

Indoor winter living often creates conditions that clash with tropical houseplant health. We seal our doors, turn up the furnace, and seek out cozy, dry warmth. For a peace lily, that same forced-air heating strips ambient room humidity down to single digits while leaving drafty windowpanes ice-cold. Coexisting happily indoors through winter means balancing these conditions, providing the warmth your peace lily needs while protecting it against parched air, dark corners, and soggy soil.

Diagnosing leaf symptoms early in November prevents minor seasonal stress from escalating into root damage. If your entire plant suddenly collapses into a limp heap, check the soil before reaching for the watering can. If the potting mix is bone dry, a thorough drink will perk the foliage up within hours. If the mix feels soggy and heavy while the leaves hang limp, waterlogged roots are suffocating: stop watering now!

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Brown, crispy leaf tips usually stem from low humidity, uneven moisture, or mineral salt accumulation from tap water. Occasional yellowing on a leaf lower down is normal ageing. However, multiple yellow leaves can indicate insufficient light or waterlogged compost or insufficient light. A long-probe soil moisture meter can help you determine deeper root moisture. I’m a big fan of the XLUX Long Probe Soil Moisture Meter, available from Amazon, which delivers instant readings, so you can address overwatering and soggy potting mix before fungal rot sets in.

As for flowers, don't expect too many right now. Winter usually isn't when peace lilies bloom. A plant that rarely flowers at all, though, probably needs a brighter spot, unless it's still young (under a year old, some won't bloom yet). Knowing some of the warning signs, hopefully the following tasks will help you avoid calamity this winter…

1. Dial Back Watering to Ward Off Rot

(Image credit: Olga Yastremska / Getty Images)

The quickest way to harm a peace lily in November is sticking to a rigid summer watering schedule. As natural day length shortens and light intensity wanes, your plant enters a semi-dormant rest period. Transpiration slows, cell division halts, and roots need less moisture from the soil. A potting blend that dried out in 5 days during July can easily stay damp for 3 weeks in November. Keeping the soil constantly saturated starves roots of oxygen, eventually leading to Pythium root rot.

This step is easy: insert a finger a couple of inches (5cm) into the potting mix. Water only when it feels dry and crumbly to the touch. When you do water your peace lily, soak the root ball thoroughly with room-temperature water until it drains freely from the base, then empty any runoff collected in the saucer. Never leave a peace lily sitting in stagnant, chilled water. If your plant droops, check soil dampness first.

A nifty way of reducing the risks associated with poor drainage is to give your plants some elevation in the drainage tray. Kakuna Plant Pot Feet, available from Amazon, can be inserted between the pot and tray to minimize chills and waterlogging.

2. Relocate into Brighter, Filtered Light

(Image credit: Erhan Inga / Shutterstock)

Peace lilies have an enduring reputation as indestructible low-light houseplants, but there is a difference between surviving and thriving. While they tolerate the subdued light of a shaded summer room, the dramatic drop in November’s daylight hours and sun intensity can throw low-light corners into near-darkness. Without help, your peace lily cannot produce the energy needed to support its broad leaf surface, leading to faded foliage, drooping stems, and a halt in flower spathe production.

Take time now to reassess where your peace lily sits and check how much light reaches the plant around noon. If needed, move the plant closer to an east or north-facing window, where it can absorb hours of bright, indirect winter daylight. Keep the leaves a few inches (8-10cm) back from direct contact with windowpanes, as freezing outdoor temperatures radiate through cold glass and will chill leaf tissue.

If placing your plant near a south or west-facing window where bright afternoon sun beams through, hang a sheer curtain to diffuse the rays; direct, unfiltered sunlight can still scorch foliage even in winter. For darker rooms lacking bright exposures, supplemental artificial light provides an easy fix. The GE BR30 Grow LED Light Bulb from Walmart fits a standard socket and lamp fixture, emitting balanced, warm-toned full-spectrum light that sustains photosynthesis through dark winter months.

3. Boost Ambient Moisture and Guard Against Heating Blasts

(Image credit: Kostikova / Getty Images)

Indoor central heating is a double hazard for peace lilies: it strips moisture from the air, while creating extreme temperature pockets. Peace lilies thrive in relative humidity levels between 50% and 60%. When heating systems get switched on, indoor humidity frequently plunges below 20%. This dry air saps moisture from leaf margins, causing crispy brown edges and papery tips. Position your plant away from forced-air vents, radiators, space heaters, and wood stoves. The blast of hot air will quickly scorch foliage. At the same time, keep plants shielded from exterior door drafts and chilly single-pane windows, maintaining a range of 65-80°F (18-27°C).

Skip leaf misting, which provides only a brief humidity spike and can encourage fungal leaf spotting. Instead, place your pot on a wide tray filled with pebbles and water (keeping the pot base resting above the water line). Alternatively, group multiple houseplants together, or run a small ultrasonic room humidifier nearby. To help you track things, buy a digital sensor like the TempPro TP50 Digital Room Temperature and Humidity Monitor, available from The Home Depot. This compact digital sensor monitors relative humidity and ambient temperature fluctuations, helping you pinpoint cold drafts and heating hotspots.

4. Pause Fertilizers and Skip Repotting

(Image credit: FotoHelin / Shutterstock)

During the dark days of late fall and winter, feeding a peace lily does far more harm than good. Because diminished daylight slows metabolic activity, the plant is not producing new tissue or developing roots. Adding liquid houseplant fertilizer during this semi-dormant time means mineral salts can build up in the potting soil. Over several weeks, this salt buildup can burn roots and brown leaf tips. Now is the time to withhold all supplemental feeding until active spring growth returns in late March.

Similarly, postpone repotting until the warmer, brighter days of spring. It doesn’t matter if you see a few roots poking out of the drainage holes: peace lilies tolerate being slightly pot-bound and recover faster in spring. Moving a sluggish plant into a larger pot now can shock them. The only exception is emergency repotting. If a plant has collapsed from severe root rot, gently tip it from its pot and rinse away old soil. Trim off brown mushy roots with sterile shears, and repot into fresh, well-aerated potting mix. A great lightweight blend for emergency winter repotting is Espoma Organic Houseplant Potting Soil Mix, available at The Home Depot.

5. Wipe Down Leaves and Monitor for Opportunistic Pests

(Image credit: Kinga Krzeminska / Getty Images)

In just a few weeks, broad peace lily leaves collect a fine film of household dust, pet dander, and airborne grease. Dusty foliage can be severely limiting in winter. Dust acts as a barrier, scattering what little winter light reaches the leaves and reducing the plant's already limited photosynthetic capacity. Cleaning the foliage is a quick, high-reward task that keeps leaves breathing and photosynthesizing efficiently. Support each leaf from beneath with one hand, and gently wipe the upper and lower surfaces with a soft cloth moistened with room-temperature water.

As you clean, inspect the leaf undersides and stem junctions for pests. Dry winter heating can encourage rapid outbreaks unless you catch them early. Bits of white fluff could be citrus mealybugs (Planococcus citri). Flat tan bumps are often brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum). Faint speckling and webbing usually mean twospotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae), which thrive in dry, heated rooms. Gently dab mealybug clusters with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, or treat leaf undersides with a gentle organic insecticidal soap or neem oil wash. Bonide Captain Jack’s Neem Oil Spray, available from Amazon, is a brilliant organic way of controlling spider mites, scale, and mealybugs.

(Image credit: MarinaMos / Shutterstock)

By giving your peace lily a little focused attention in November, you provide the support it needs to navigate the winter months with ease. Dialing back the watering can, finding a brighter pocket of filtered daylight, raising ambient moisture levels, and letting the roots rest will keep the foliage healthy and glossy.

Set up well in November, a peace lily usually comes through winter looking much like it did in summer, just growing a little slower. The fertilizer and the bigger pot can wait until spring, and so can you. When longer spring days return, your well-rested peace lily will be primed to surge back into active growth, rewarding you with fresh green leaves and a striking display of signature white blooms.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

As leaves drop in fall, I always wish I’d planted more evergreen shrubs in my garden to give structure and color all through the winter. From tall arborvitae cones to slender columns of holly and perfect no-prune spheres, evergreens give a garden a shapely skeleton on which to hang seasonal blooms. While I’m lucky enough to have mature yew hedges and an old conifer I’m planning to cloud-prune, I want to add evergreen accents to borders and alongside a path to punctuate my garden design. Globes of green leaves in patio planters are high on my wish list too.

What's stopped me? One of the basic principles of garden design is to always repeat-plant evergreens in odd numbers – and bying multiple plants gets expensive, fast. But Home Depot must have been listening in to my garden-design dreams because it’s not even Thanksgiving yet and a heap of my favorite evergreen shrubs just had their prices slashed in an early Black Friday plant sale. And frankly, the prices were pretty decent even before they went on sale.

Let’s skip straight to the good bit, shall we?

1. Emerald Green Arbovitae

Privacy Hedge

Emerald Green Arbovitae

If you’re thinking about planting a privacy screen or hedge, look no further than Emerald Green arborvitae. It naturally grows into a narrow pyramid, reaching 10-14 feet high but only 2-4 feet wide, so you don’t lose too much yardspace or sunlight but get dense foliage to screen your garden from prying neighbors. While many evergreens fade in the coldest winter months, this variety is well known for keeping its bright, glossy tone year round. Thuja occidentalis ‘Smagard’ puts on about 6-12 inches of growth a year so while you won’t get privacy overnight, you won’t need to spend half your weekend pruning it forever more either. Suitable for zones 3-8.

(Image credit: Getty Images)2. Sprinter Boxwood

Stylish Mounds

Sprinter Boxwood

While most boxwood shrubs grow incredibly slowly, sprinter boxwood lives up to its name, meaning you can buy a smaller, cheaper plant. And don’t worry that Buxus microphylla will grow too big because it maxes out at 2-4 feet high and wide: large enough to have an impact in your yard without taking over. Sprinter boxwood keeps its glossy green foliage year-round and has excellent resistance to diseases and pests, including boxwood blight. Suitable for zones 4-9, this handsome shrub is easily shaped to create structural evergreen mounds in a border, a low square hedge or appealing spheres in planters.

(Image credit: Getty Images)3. Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae

Mini Spheres

Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae

Thuja occidentalis ‘Anna van Vloten’ is a dwarf evergreen that naturally grows in a compact sphere without ever needing to be clipped. With wonderfully textural fan-like foliage, it keeps a bright golden-green tone year-round and grows well in zones 3-8. Anna’s Magic Ball arborvitae only grows to 10-15 inches high and wide and looks delightful dotted through a border. If you’re looking for compact shrubs to boost your curb appeal or want to add some stylish year-round planters to your patio, here’s the easy solution.

4. Danica America Arborvitae

Geometric Shape

Danica America Arborvitae

Here’s another dwarf cultivar of Thuja occidentalis that naturally grows in a compact ball shape without requiring any pruning. Danica America arborvitae is a little bigger at 2 feet high and wide and a brighter green, but what really sets it apart is its fan-like foliage that grows in vertical layers. The evergreen foliage is denser than Anna’s Magic Ball, too. Use it to create a smart geometric accent alongside a path or add stylish structure to a border without taking up too much space. It's one of the best evergreens for containers, too, and suitable for zones 3-7.

(Image credit: Getty Images)5. Sky Pencil Holly

Vertical Accent

homedepot Sky Pencil Holly

For instant style in zones 6-9, few evergreen shrubs have the striking aplomb of sky pencil holly. It’s a cultivar of the lovely Japanese holly and while it grows 6-10 feet tall, it stays a slender 1-2 feet wide with unusual vertical branches. The leaves are small, glossy and dark green – more like a boxwood than a holly – so the growth is dense, accentuating the shape. So, while sky pencil holly doesn’t boast red berries (though it does grow small black berries in fall), its silhouette provides more than enough drama. Happy in a large planter or in well-drained ground, sky pencil holly looks fabulous either side of a doorway or gate, or planted in a loose line, and is one of the best shrubs for a front yard.

6. Encore Azalea

4-Season Beauty

Autumn Royalty Encore Azalea

So far, so green. And while it’s wonderful to have shrubs that bring texture and a year-round skeleton of leaves, some evergreen shrubs also deliver a generous splash of color. And Encore azalea is one of the very best flowering plants to add to your garden in fall. While many azaleas are deciduous, and older varieties only flower for a few short weeks in spring, the Encore series not only keeps its leaves through winter but repeat-blooms all through spring, summer and autumn. It maintains a tidy, rounded shape so requires very little pruning, and there are all sorts of flower colors to choose from. Suitable for zones 6-10, Autumn Royalty has bright magenta blooms and you’ll also find Autumn Lily with white flowers, Autumn Carnation with pink flowers, and Autumn Embers with red-orange flowers in Home Depot’s sale.

(Image credit: GoBuyPlants / Encore Azalea)7. Gold Splash Wintercreeper

Low-Maintenance Lovely

homedepot Gold Splash Wintercreeper

Euonymus fortunei ‘Roemertwo’ is one of those easy wins that every garden needs, requiring little looking after but working hard four seasons of the year. Don't be put off by the fact it's a wintercreeper as this cultivar is a compact mounding shrub. Its evergreen foliage doesn’t lose its variegation and revert to green like many shrubs, and thank goodness because the lime-green leaves have lovely gold margins that positively glow on a dark winter day. Adding to the color, Gold Splash wintercreeper boasts yellow fruit that open to reveal orange seeds in fall. Highly resistant to disease, this neat, ultra-tough shrub reaches 18-24 inches high and wide in zones 5-8.

(Image credit: Getty Images)8. Brandywine Viburnum

Berries for Birds

Brandywine Viburnum

Okay, so Viburnum nudum ‘Brandywine’ isn’t evergreen but it does look good all through winter on account of the multi-colored berries that cling to the branches months after leaves have fallen. Brandywine viburnum is one of the best berry-bearing shrubs to feel birds through winter as its berries only sweeten once the worst winter weather sets in, providing a valuable late-season pantry for our feathered friends. Those berries provide quite a show, too, starting green then shifting through pink and blue to a glossy dark purple. Hardy in zones 5-9, this low-maintenance shrub reaches 5-6 feet high.

It's official; Kate Hudson’s Christmas tree from last year is still inspiring holiday decorations in 2026.

It's hardly a surprise. After all, the actress (best known for her starring turns in Bride Wars and How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days) kept her Christmas tree simple, classy, and very less is more: think silver, bronze and gold bows, a few ornaments and not much else.

Now, a bow is almost as Christmassy as it gets, whether it’s tied on a tree, a wreath or a present. A nostalgic tree does have one risk, though: if you do it without thinking it through, it can go from warm and charming to dated really quickly. Some experts gave me tips on how you can avoid this, and get Kate Hudson’s Christmas tree look.

Why Bows Are Back

For those who have yet to see Kate Hudson's Christmas tree in all its glory, flick your eyes downwards...

A post shared by Kate Hudson (@katehudson)

A photo posted by

It feels like a rebellion against the minimalist matchy-matchy (and beige) trend that has been going on for so many years, doesn't it? “People are tired of the same old, store-bought, themed trees,” says Irena Cara, interior designer and co-founder of Nova Wrap.

Reilly Renwick, designer and creative lead of State of the Wall, points to Millennial parents whose kids are now the age they were in the 1990s. Many of them, he says, want to revive “the warm, festive and childlike vibe of a 90s Christmas, as opposed to what people are now calling the ‘sad beige’ of contemporary tree styling.”

So, how best to recreate it? Other than buying some of this beautiful metallic gold ribbon from Amazon. We have a few ideas...

1. Borrow The Feeling

(Image credit: Denkraslab / Shutterstock)

Hey, we might not have Goldie Hawn as a mum, but when it comes to Christmas nostalgia, a lot of millennials remember our parents' houses being packed with all kinds of stuff, and so much color that it felt cluttered. So, the biggest worry with going with a nostalgic look is the tree looking tacky.

For Renwick, “the biggest challenge for anyone trying to create a nostalgic tree is how to evade the ‘tacky’ accusations.” His answer is to look at what Kate Hudson did with hers. “The whole point of this ‘comeback’ thing is to evoke the festive vibe of the 90s, not to recreate it in painstaking detail,” he says.

Shop Nostalgic Christmas Tree Essentials:

Morex Ribbon Ribbon Wired Lamé

Wavyknot 12 Pcs Vintage Glass Christmas Tree Ornaments

Bunny Chorus Vintage Christmas Tree Skirt

2. Keep Metallic Bows Rich, Not Flashy

(Image credit: Moment Capsule / Shutterstock)

Want the Kate Hudson look? “My advice is to use the metallic bows with restraint, in such a way that they stand out but still leave space for the other decorations and the tree itself to still be visible,” says Renwick.

Cara has practical tips for gold, silver, and bronze. “Use brushed or matte ribbon to take the ‘shiny’ edge off, especially if the metals are varying warm tones. Also, make sure the bows are of varying sizes, to keep things interesting.”

For quantity, she says: “On a tree between 6 and 7 feet, use between 20 and 30 bows.” Lighting matters too: “Warm white lights make metallics look even better.”

3. Give Your Ribbon A Story

(Image credit: Bogdan Sonjachnyj / Shutterstock)

A Christmas tree runs the risk of feeling tacky, true, but it can also feel too generic, like it should be in a department store in the 90s. Nadi Melam, founder of Florals Memories, has a way to avoid this.

“You can’t purchase nostalgia, but you can tie it!” she says. Her suggestion is to reuse ribbon that already means something. “Use ribbons that have a story, such as paper that a bouquet you received came wrapped in. On the loose end of the ribbon, write down the date you received it, and now your tree is a timeline.”

Melam preserves flowers for a living, so she also suggests pairing a ribbon with a flower from your own garden. She says you can build the look slowly: “You can add one more ribbon to your tree each year.”

4. Mix Old And New

(Image credit: RgStudio/Getty Images)

If you already have tons of ornaments that have been passed down by family or maybe something your kids have made, bows can tie them into a whole scheme.

Cara says to put the old pieces where people look first: “Place heirloom and vintage pieces at eye level in the center where people look first.” Then, let the ribbon link everything together. “Match the ribbon to details on the older ornaments, such as a gold edge or a red glass.”

5. Refresh it Each Year

(Image credit: Sanghwan Kim / Getty Images)

A big advantage of a bow tree like Kate Hudson's is that it’s very cheap to update, as ribbon is super easy to swap out for different colors and patterns. “Swap out the ribbon and keep the ornaments to change decorations year to year for a small cost,” says Cara.

Melam says to store ribbon carefully between seasons: “Moisture and light will cause your ribbon to fade, so store it flat in a cool, dark, dry place.”

Kate Hudson’s tree works because it feels warm and traditional without trying to look like a time capsule. Keep your color palette tight and give your ribbon some history to recreate the same nostalgia.

It’s not necessarily too late to plant amaryllis bulbs for Christmas, but timing does matter. Amaryllis typically blooms six to eight weeks after planting, so early to mid-November is your last chance to get bulbs in the pot if you want striking holiday flowers in time for the big day.

If you’re growing amaryllis for holiday flowers, choose the right type. Amaryllis usually refers to Hippeastrum, a South American native, not true Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lilies from South Africa. Most Hippeastrum bulbs sold this time of year are grown in the Southern Hemisphere and will bloom in six to eight weeks. Dutch-grown bulbs take longer, so avoid these.

Flowering also varies by the plant’s growing conditions, which means you have some control. While early or mid-November is the ideal time to plant a holiday amaryllis, you can do a few things to speed up the process if you’ve just missed the window.

How to Plant Amaryllis Bulbs

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Getting healthy holiday blooms isn’t just luck. How you choose and plant your bulbs is important. Start by selecting the best bulbs. Look for large, firm, and healthy bulbs without soft spots, damage, or mold. If you see a bulb that has the tip of a green stem emerging, grab it. This bulb has already begun to break dormancy and should flower sooner.

While unusual varieties can be expensive, you don't need to spend a lot of money on bulbs – Walmart sells preplanted bulbs for under $6.

Next, choose a good-quality potting mix, such as Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix, available at Amazon, and a container with drainage holes that is only one or two inches (2.5 to 5 cm) wider than the bulb. Position the bulb in the pot so that the pointy end is up and one-third to one-half of the bulb is above the surface of the potting mix.

Water your planted bulb thoroughly, letting it all drain through, before setting it in a warm, bright spot. Keep the potting mix just slightly damp, never soggy. Amaryllis doesn’t need much water and can rot in soggy conditions.

Can You Make Amaryllis Bloom Faster?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

While you can’t significantly alter the timeline for flowering, a few easy tips encourage strong and steady growth:

• Soak the Roots. Stimulate the roots to help them come out of dormancy by soaking them in lukewarm water for a few hours before planting the bulb.
• Keep it Warm. Amaryllis plants grow best in warm conditions. Situate your plant in a spot that is around 70–75°F (21–24°C). More heat isn’t better. Placing it on or over a radiator, for instance, can backfire.
• Provide Plenty of Light. A sunny, south-facing window will provide the bright light this sun-loving plant needs to grow strong stems. Be sure to rotate the pot every few days to keep the stem straight.

You can’t do a lot to force it, but these conditions provide everything your plant needs for a healthy growth rate. Just don’t overdo it. Fertilizer, too much heat, and too much water can do more harm than good.

What if I Left it Too Late?

(Image credit: Vladdeep / Getty Images)

Be realistic about timing with amaryllis bulbs. If it’s late November, you might still have time for a Christmas flower. Choose the largest, healthiest bulb, with a bit of green growth, if possible, for the best start. Provide the best conditions and cross your fingers.

If it’s already December, you won’t get a flower by Christmas from a dormant bulb. However, you can probably find a potted amaryllis that has already broken dormancy and has a stem. This plant will likely bloom by Christmas.

How to Prolong Amaryllis Flowers Over the Holidays

(Image credit: Johner Images / Getty Images)

You got some gorgeous blooms in time for Christmas, but now you want them to last. It’s time to switch your care strategy from encouraging growth to keeping flowers looking their best.

• Drop the Temperature. Warmth is important for growth, but once flowers have opened, it’s best to cool things down. Put your plant in an area that is a little cooler, around 65°F (18°C). Your plant still needs bright light, though.
• Avoid Overwatering. Soggy soil is a big no-no for an amaryllis. As the plant grows and blooms, you can increase watering slightly, but the goal is to keep the potting mix just slightly moist.
• Support the Stem. Open flowers can cause stems to lean or flop. Use a stake with ties or clips to support it. This orchid support stake and clip set from Amazon will keep tall amaryllis stems upright without distracting from the beautiful blooms.
• Keep Rotating. Continue to rotate the pot every few days so the plant gets even sunlight. This helps keep the stem straight and sturdy.

When the flowers do fade, snip them off to keep the plant looking tidy. Once all the flowers are done blooming, cut the stem back close to the bulb. With the right care, you should enjoy healthy, attractive flowers for two to three weeks.

Shop Amaryllis Bulbs

Here are a few great options available to buy now, with beautiful blooms that will bring a festive splash of color to your home.

Van Zyverden Ferrari Amaryllis Bulb (Preplanted)

Luna Amaryllis Bulb

Bonnie Plants Red Waxed Minerva Amaryllis Bulb

Jumbo Sweet Nymph Amaryllis Bulb

Pink Waxed Apple Blossom Amaryllis Gift

Royal Velvet Amaryllis Bulb

Whether you get flowers in time for Christmas or not, forcing an amaryllis bulb indoors is a great winter activity. Enjoy your blooms, even if they don’t open until January. And if you’re up for it, you can keep the plant going and encourage it to bloom again next year.