Organic Gardening News

You’re moving homes, which means your family and your pets are also packing up and moving along with you. But what about your plants? Many of us consider our plants as part of our extended family, and I am one of them. I tend to rescue plants other people toss out with the garbage. Once you’ve nursed a junked plant back to glorious health, you just can’t leave it behind when you move.

Yet moving plants to a new home can have legal repercussions that you may not see coming. I know, since I’m a plant lover and a lawyer. Part of it depends on where you are moving and part depends on whether the plants are from outside in the garden.

It’s important to understand the legal issues before you move your plants to a new home. I'll walk you through the legality of moving plants to a new home, so you don't get in trouble.

Legal Issues When Moving Plants

You love your plants and can’t help but feel that they love you, too. So it’s natural to want to take them along with you when you move. While container plants are a bit more practical to travel with than those growing in the landscape, you’ll want to take a close look at the laws before packing up any of your plants.

There are two primary types of legal issues around moving with plants. The first (and perhaps easier) challenge involves state and national borders. This issue involves the question: can I take this type of plant into a new state or country? The second issue involves plant ownership. It asks the question: whose plants are they after you sell your house?

(Image credit: Marina Meshcherskaia / Getty Images)Moving Plants Across State Lines

So you pack up the car with your suitcases, your kids, your dog, your cat and your 17 favorite houseplants. If you are headed to another town in the same state, you shouldn’t have any problems – other than squeezing everybody in.

If, however, your move will take you across state or national borders, you may have issues. Even when crossing from one state into another, some plants are forbidden. Moving plants across state lines is governed by the United States Department of Agriculture and state-specific agricultural quarantines.

In general, it is illegal to move plants between states if your plants harbor pests or diseases or have been declared federal noxious weeds, like kudzu and witchweed.

Other restrictions are in place as well, but they vary by destination. These include the prohibition to take any citrus plants into California and Florida to prevent the spread of different citrus diseases.

They also include restrictions on taking any plants that are hosts for the emerald ash borer (largely ash trees) and the Japanese beetles (plants like maple trees, birches, linden trees, roses, flowering crabapples, hibiscus, crape myrtles, and viburnum).

Finally, it is largely prohibited to take any natural soil across state lines. That means that any container plants with soil from the garden in the container cannot be transported legally. Only sterile, soilless potting media is permitted.

Moving plants across international borders is even more fraught legally. For example, if you're moving to Canada, your houseplants must have a Phytosanitary Certificate from the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) and must be bare roots.

Travel into other countries with plants may be even more restricted. The best rule is: know before you go. Call the nearest consulate and ask before trying to move plants into a new home in a different country.

(Image credit: Phynart Studio / Getty Images)Removing Plants From Your Old Yard

Are you sure you are really the owner of that shrub in your old yard? Before you dig it up to take it with you to your new home, make sure you know the rules about plant ownership.

Yes, you planted that hydrangea, that rose bush, or that Meyer lemon tree in the backyard some years back. You bought it at the garden store, dug the hole, planted the roots, and nurtured the plant. Now it’s time to leave and you’re thinking it would look nice in your new home’s garden.

But is it legally yours? If you rented the home you are leaving, it might belong to the landlord. In most states, plants that are attached to the soil by their roots belong to the property owner.

That means that outdoor shrubs permanently planted in the ground are considered legal “fixtures” and belong to the landlord of your old home. Even if a tenant plants the shrubs themselves, they generally cannot remove them when moving out without the landlord's permission

There may be issues even if you owned your old property. If you are moving because you sold the property, ownership of the outdoor plants may have passed to the new owner with the sale of the house.

As a general rule, outdoor shrubs that are planted in the ground belong to the buyer when the sale closes. They are classified as fixtures and automatically transfer with the house. Sellers cannot dig them up unless explicitly stated in the purchase contract that the seller will take ownership of certain plants.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What You Can Do

• Before moving day, figure out what plants you wish to take with you. Do your research to understand whether or not you can take them to your new home.
• Take cuttings from the in-ground plants you particularly love to root and plant at the new home.
• If a particular outdoor shrub is very dear to you, negotiate with your landlord, if you are a tenant, to be able to dig it up and take it with you. If you are selling your home, write in explicit exceptions for the outdoor plants you wish to take.

What You Can't Do

• When crossing borders, never lie to a state or federal agent about the plants you are carrying. This could cause you to be subject to large fines or even to be criminally charged and sent to prison.
• Never dig up outdoor plants if you are not the current owner of the property. Your landlord or the new buyer can charge you with theft and/or sue you for the replacement cost.

Tools to Help You Move Plants

Felco F2 Pruning Shears

Take cuttings of your favorite plants with these pro-approved pruning shears from Felco.

Back to the Roots Organic Perlite

Perlite is a great medium for propagating plant cuttings to prevent root rot and promote good root growth.

Burpee Superseed Windowsill Seed Starting Tray

A reusable planting tray like this one is perfect for planting cuttings and seed starting. Try both methods to bring your favorite plants to your new home.

There's something uniquely annoying about an old tree stump, isn't there? It's too solid to dig out yourself (unless you're feeling particularly dedicated), professional stump grinding isn't cheap, and every time you look at it, it seems to become even more of an eyesore.

If you've searched for ways to get rid of one, you've probably stumbled across every trick in the book. Drill holes and fill it with Epsom salt. Burn it. Cover it with plastic. Grow a new tree from it. Wait for nature to take its course (only another decade or so!).

I should know; I briefly considered all of them when trying to figure out what to do with my own pesky tree stump. Instead of spending hundreds of dollars trying to make the stump disappear, though, I had a thought: why not make it into something I actually wanted to look at?

How I Hid My Tree Stump

Rather than paying through the nose to remove my old tree stump, I decided to embrace it instead... and, no word of a lie, it's since become one of my favorite parts of my garden.

Now, I know that some people transform their old tree stumps into benches, or fairy gardens, or decorative sculptures. Mine wasn't nearly big enough for such grand designs, tragically. Instead, I planted evergreen vines around the base and simply let them do what they do best: climb.

Within a couple of seasons, the stump had almost completely vanished beneath glossy green foliage. And, instead of a dead reminder of the tree that used to be there (RIP, tree; I still miss you), it has become a lush pillar of greenery that looks like it has always belonged.

(Image credit: Akihiro Umehara / Shutterstock)

Now, the unexpected bonus wasn't how good the stump looked; it was who moved in. Every summer, toads make their way beneath the curtain of green leaves, where the old stump stays cool and damp even during hot weather.

I'll occasionally catch one peeking out from underneath the foliage before disappearing back into its shady hideaway. It's not just a toad abode, though; the dense evergreen cover also provides shelter for insects and spiders, while the decaying wood beneath continues to support fungi and countless beneficial organisms.

What was once a dead feature has quietly become a living ecosystem. And, even in the middle of winter, when much of the garden has gone to sleep, the stump stays green, giving the space a little structure and a wonderfully overgrown, Secret Garden feel.

(Image credit: Marina Troynich/Getty Images)

Now, I garden in the UK, where English ivy is easy (and non-problematic) to grow, but there are plenty of alternatives if you're gardening in the US. Something like creeping fig in warmer regions, Virginia creepers (available as bare root plants from CZ Grain Stor) or even a stunning Climbing Hydrangea from Nature Hills if you're happy to wait for it to establish can create a similarly , leafy effect.

If you don't want a permanent climber, annual vines can also disguise a stump for the growing season. Or you could go ultra fancy and try growing your birth month vine over your own personal stumpery.

It should go without saying that there are times when stump removal makes sense. If the stump is diseased, causing safety issues, or sits exactly where you need to build a patio or plant a new tree, removing it is probably the right call.

Shop Vines & Creepers:

Florida Foliage Creeping Fig Vine

CZ Grain Virginia Creeper Bare Root Plant

Brighter Blooms Climbing Hydrangea

If it's simply ugly, though? Well, I think hiding it is often the better solution. After all, professional stump grinding can be surprisingly expensive, especially for larger stumps. Leaving the stump in place means you avoid disturbing the surrounding soil and nearby plant roots, while allowing the wood to decompose naturally over time.

By covering it with evergreen planting instead, you're solving the cosmetic problem without creating waste... and you're adding habitat at the same time.

Truth be told, I originally planted the ivy because I didn't want to pay for stump removal. Now, even if someone offered to remove the stump for free, I wouldn't say yes. And every time I spot a little toad tucked beneath the leaves on a warm afternoon, I'm reminded that the garden seems to agree.

Wilting might be the least useful symptom in the garden. It's how a plant says something is wrong, and that's about as specific as it gets. A tomato that's merely hot and a tomato with fungus clogging its plumbing look identical at three in the afternoon, which is exactly why so many gardeners water the second one until it dies faster.

Then again, gardening in a heat wave means treating a certain amount of afternoon flop as ordinary. Leaves droop because the plant has closed its stomata and quit transpiring until conditions improve, so the sag is a defense, not a distress call. The question worth answering isn't whether a plant wilts. It's whether it comes back.

Start with the Sunset Test

(Image credit: NetPix / Getty Images)

Go back out at dusk, or first thing the next morning, and look at the same plant. Heat stress lets go once the sun is off it. Roots catch up with what the leaves lost, turgor returns, and something that looked finished in the afternoon is standing there come nighttime like nothing happened. That's the entire test, and it costs nothing. Give it a full hour past sundown before drawing any conclusion, since dry soil slows recovery even in a healthy plant.

A plant still slumped at sunrise, after twelve hours of cool air and no sun at all, has a problem that has nothing to do with weather. The in-between case matters too. A plant that bounces back a little less each morning is on a slow slide, and the pattern shows up over three or four days rather than in a single look. Take a photo each morning if the difference is too subtle to hold in your head.

Wilting in Wet Soil Is a Contradiction

(Image credit: jxfzsy / Getty Images)

Soggy ground and a drooping plant should not go together, and when they do, the roots are the story. Root rot organisms – mainly Phytophthora and Pythium species – thrive in saturated soil and destroy the fine feeder roots that do the actual drinking. What's left can't pull water even while sitting in it. The wilt looks like drought because, from the plant's side, it is drought. An XLUX long-probe soil moisture meter from Amazon settles the question in seconds at root depth, where a finger can't reach.

Confirming it means getting your hands dirty. Scrape back the soil at the base and pull a few roots. Healthy roots are firm and pale, and they snap. Rotted roots turn brown or gray, go soft, and the outer layer slides off between your fingers and leaves a bare thread behind. That smell of stagnant pond water is the other giveaway. Container plants sitting in saucers are the usual victims, though heavy clay after a wet stretch does the same job. Peppers and squash collapse within days once it takes hold, while shrubs can carry the damage quietly for a season.

One Branch, One Side, One Piece

(Image credit: Toni Jardon / Getty Images)

Vascular wilts operate differently, and they're the ones that earn the word sinister. Verticillium dahliae and Fusarium oxysporum live in the soil, enter through the roots, and grow upward inside the xylem – the plumbing itself. The plant fights back by plugging infected vessels with gums and tyloses, and in doing so it seals off the pipes it needs. Water stops moving. The leaves get the message before the rest of the plant does.

Asymmetry is the tell. Heat hits the whole plant at once, while a vascular wilt starts with a single branch and leaves everything around it looking fine for days. Sometimes the split is narrower – half a stem, or one wedge of a leaf going yellow while the rest of it stays green. Yellowing that climbs from the bottom and then stalls halfway counts too. Fusarium tends to move in hot weather and Verticillium in milder spells, though both settle into the soil for years once they arrive. The same bed keeps producing the same sad tomato.

Cut the Stem and Look

There's a diagnostic that beats guessing. Slice through a wilted stem a few inches above the soil line with a hand pruner like this from Home Depot, then look at the cut face. Cream-colored tissue all the way around points back at heat or a watering problem. Brown or tan streaking in the ring just under the bark is vascular disease, and no amount of water fixes that.

Wipe the blades down with 70% isopropyl alcohol (you can get it from Walmart) before touching another plant, since pruners carry these fungi from one stem to the next easily. Neither wilt has a cure once it's in a plant. Pull it, bag it, and keep it out of the compost, then put something unrelated in that spot for a few years – corn, beans, and grasses shrug both of them off. Resistant varieties exist for tomatoes, and the letters on the tag earn their keep here. A “V” stands for Verticillium and an “F” for Fusarium. Until then, the plant tells you which one it is by sundown – every time, for free.

Who doesn’t love the big, colorful blooms of hydrangeas? From rounded mopheads and delicate lacecaps to elegant panicles, their varied flower forms make a striking addition to the garden. Knowing how to dry hydrangea flowers allows you to enjoy their impressive blooms for even longer.

Many gardeners leave the flower heads to dry on the bushes for fall and winter interest, but you can also cut and preserve them to display indoors. Knowing when and how to harvest the blooms is a useful part of hydrangea care, as the timing can affect how well they retain their color and shape.

Learning how to dry hydrangea blooms is actually very easy. Some flowers take better to drying than others, and they can last a long time if you do it right. You can use all types of hydrangeas for drying, but the mopheads and panicles with changing colors turn into the most striking specimens when dry.

(Image credit: Natalia Zhukova / Getty Images)

There are several ways to dry flowers at home, including air-drying, drying them in water, and using silica gel. Each method is relatively simple and produces slightly different results. Follow the instructions below to discover the best way to preserve your hydrangea blooms.

When to Cut Hydrangeas for Drying

(Image credit: Getty Images)

There is a right time and a wrong time to cut hydrangeas for drying. These prolific bloomers look their most spectacular when they are brightly colored at their peak in the garden. But this is not the best time to dry them, as they contain too much moisture. Drying them at this stage will result in wilted, shriveled flowers.

The best time to harvest hydrangeas for drying is later in the season. Aim for about six weeks after the blooms open. The flowers should already feel a little dry and papery. If your flowers don’t seem totally dried out, just give them more time.

Choose a dry day, and harvest flowers later in the day when they are naturally drier.

What You Need

Fiskars 6" Pruning Scissors for Flower Stems

These precision micro-tip pruners are perfect for neatly cutting exactly the stems you want with no mistakes.

Modanu Hanging Drying Rack

This charming drying rack is perfect for hydrangeas and other flowers as well as home-grown herbs and garlic.

Krylon Ultra UV Floral Protectant Spray

Spritz dried flowers with this protectant spray to improve their longevity and minimize color fade.

How to Dry Hydrangeas in Water

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It might seem counterintuitive, but drying hydrangeas in water is the best way to preserve them. Unlike other flowers that degrade in water, hydrangeas hold their shape and color well.

Water-drying hydrangeas takes a little more time than air-drying, but many find that the results are better. Here's how to do it:

1. Timing is critical when drying hydrangeas in water. You must wait till the blooms have been open for several weeks and are beginning to get papery. Many hydrangeas will slowly change colors, from white to dusky pink, for example. It’s when the color change begins that it is ready to undergo the drying process.
2. Cut the blooms in mid to late morning after all the dew has dried from the plant. Pick the best-looking blooms because drying will exacerbate any imperfections. Allow 12 to 18 inches (30–45 cm) for the stems, and cut them at different heights, so the flowers are spaced out as they dry. Cut above a node at a 45-degree angle. Drop the stem in a bucket of water, if desired, while the other boughs are collected.
3. Once inside, strip the leaves from the hydrangea blooms as they don’t dry well. Fill each vase with enough water to cover about two to three inches of the stems. Insert the stems and arrange them so there is ample space between blossoms. They should not touch. Stagger the heights, if needed, to allow sufficient air space.
4. Place the vases where you can enjoy the blooms as they dry, but keep them out of direct sunlight.
5. Allow the water to evaporate and the hydrangeas to dry. It should take two or more weeks. If the water evaporates and the flowers do not feel stiff, add more water and continue to let them dry naturally. When the flowers feel papery and stiff, they are ready for display.

How to Air Dry Hydrangeas

(Image credit: Alamy)

Air-drying hydrangeas is the simplest and quickest method, although the finished blooms may be more fragile and lose more color than those dried in water.

Simply cut the stems to different heights, remove the leaves, and arrange the flowers loosely in a vase without adding water. Avoid crowding the blooms, as good air circulation helps them dry evenly and prevents moisture from becoming trapped between the petals. Place the vase in a cool, dry spot away from direct sunlight, which can bleach the flowers.

Alternatively, tie the stems together in small bunches and hang them upside down to air-dry on a rack, like this wooden adjustable drying rack from Amazon. This can help keep the stems straight, although the flower heads may lose a little more of their natural shape. Depending on the conditions, the hydrangeas should feel dry and papery within one to two weeks.

Using Silica Gel for Drying Hydrangeas​

Silica gel is a good option if you want hydrangea flowers to retain more of their original color and shape. It draws moisture from the petals and supports the flower head as it dries, retaining more color and structure than when air drying. Bear in mind, large hydrangea blooms can use a considerable amount of silica gel, so buy it in bulk, like this Unuast Store 5 lb tub from Amazon.

Here's how to do it:

1. Cut the stems short, remove the leaves, and place a layer of silica gel in the bottom of an airtight container.
2. Set the flower head on top, then carefully pour more silica gel around and over the petals until the bloom is completely covered.
3. Seal the container and leave it undisturbed for several days, checking the flowers according to the product instructions.
4. Once dry, lift the bloom out gently and brush away any remaining crystals with a soft paintbrush.

This method works especially well for individual flower heads intended for arrangements or crafts, although it requires more materials than air- or water-drying. The finished flowers are often very delicate, so handle them with care.

Should I Spray Dry Hydrangea Flowers?

You don’t have to spray hydrangeas after drying them, but doing so will help them last longer. Use a light mist of hairspray to fix the petals and flowers and prevent them from dropping.

Better still, a UV floral preservative, like Krylon UV Floral Protectant Spray, prevents color fading. Your dried blooms won’t last forever, but you can extend their lifespan by doing this.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Can I Dry Hydrangeas in the Microwave?

If you're in a rush, you can dry hydrangeas in the microwave, but it’s not the best method. To do it, place flower heads or individually removed flowers in a microwave-safe container. Heat the container on the lowest setting and check the flowers at 30-second or 60-second intervals.

Ways to Use Dried Hydrangeas

Knowing how to dry a hydrangea flower properly means you can create beautiful displays for fall and winter. A simple and conventional way to use dried hydrangeas is in arrangements in vases, with or without other flowers.

If you use care not to damage them, you can also use dried hydrangeas in other types of displays. Use them in tablescapes or on mantels. Lay them on the surface or around candles. Tie dried flowers to presents. Fill bowls with them to decorate a table.

You can even use hydrangeas in wreaths or garlands. Handle them carefully to avoid damage and to help them last longer.

There really is a special kind of misery that comes from eating ice cream on a warm summer day, only to have a wasp start attacking your hand. Or, you’re setting up the perfect little outdoor table full of cold drinks and your garden is actually looking stunning, only to spend the whole afternoon flinching every time something black and yellow buzzes past your ear.

Wasps have a real talent for ruining a lovely afternoon. Fortunately, trapping them has become significantly easier than most people think. There is no shortage of products that actually work without all the chemicals or bravery needed when you don’t want to get stung. If you prefer to go the DIY route first, we've got a great guide to homemade wasp traps. But if you'd rather just buy something that works right now, here are the best options available.

A note before you buy: Placement matters as much as the trap itself. All of these should be hung at least 20 feet away from where you're sitting, as the goal is to draw wasps toward the trap and away from you, not hang it over the potato salad. Hang them at eye level or slightly above, in areas that seem to draw a lot of wasps, and replace or refresh the bait about every two weeks.

Trap for Wasps, Hornets & Yellow jackets

RESCUE! Rescue! Why Trap for Wasps, Hornets, & Yellowjackets – Hanging Outdoor Trap - 3 Traps

The RESCUE! WHY Trap is the one most pest control professionals grab first, and for good reason. The name stands for Wasps, Hornets, and Yellowjackets, and it catches all three. It targets 19 different species in a single dual-chamber design. The top chamber uses two attractants dissolved in water while the bottom uses a liquid lure on a little cotton pad.

Wasps can enter but can't find their way back out, and die naturally. No poison, no chemicals, no mess, except emptying the chamber when it's full. A 2-week supply of attractant is included, with refills available on Amazon as well. This trap is perfect if you aren’t sure what species you’re dealing with and want to make sure you have all your bases covered.

TrapStik for Wasps, Mud Daubers & Carpenter Bees

RESCUE! Rescue! Visilure® TrapStik for Wasps, Mud Daubers, Carpenter Bees – 2 Pack

Same brand, completely different approach; no liquid, no bait, no smell. The TrapStik uses VisiLure technology, which is a patented combination of colors and patterns that wasps are visually drawn to. After they land to see what’s up, they're stuck on a sticky surface and can't escape.

There are built-in guards to reduce the chance of catching birds or other creatures you’re not trying to target. Hang it near where you have seen a lot of wasps, as unlike other types of traps that lure them from a distance, this one works best if you position it where the problem is.

Glass Wasp Trap

Mysora 2-Piece Glass Wasp Trap Outdoor Hanging Reusable Wasp Traps

If you prefer your wasp traps to look pretty, and in a garden we often do like that, this is the trap for you. It’s made from cobalt blue glass and looks like a decoration rather than a pest control device. It works on the classic principle: fill the bottom with a sugary liquid bait (sugar water, fruit juice, or flat cola all work well), hang it near areas of wasp activity, and the wasps enter and can't get out.

It's chemical-free, reusable, and looks super pretty. It works best for paper wasps and yellowjackets around an outdoor table. Keep it topped up with fresh bait and be sure to empty it often, as it fills up faster than you would think during peak wasp season.

Honeycomb Reusable Wasp Traps

Qualirey 3-Pack Wasp Traps

This is a practical, no-fuss option that covers a ton of ground. The honeycomb design looks fancier than a basic plastic bottle trap and looks quite good in a garden. It has a sealed bottom to prevent leaks, and several entry points to increase the catch rates of wasps who can enter from several directions.

You can fill it with sugar water or fruit juice, hang it wherever wasps tend to hang out, and replace the bait every week or two; simple. It comes in a pack of 3, which is useful for making a perimeter: one near your house, one in the middle of your garden, and one at the far end. This helps keep wasps away from the whole area rather than just one spot.

Paper Wasp Nest Decoys

DECYOOL 6-Pack Paper Wasp Nest Decoy Hanging Wasp Deterrent for Hornets Yellow Jackets

Okay, while it’s technically not a trap, it’s actually a bit more effective than any preventative methods. Wasps can be highly territorial; they won’t even build a nest within 20 feet of an existing one. These paper decoys mimic the look of a paper wasp nest convincingly enough to fool scouts into looking elsewhere. So, basically, you’re tricking the wasps. Hah!

You can hang them from pergolas, tree branches, or fence posts in early spring before wasps start searching for nesting sites, and you will significantly reduce the chances of ending up with a nest anywhere near your outdoor seating area in the first place. A 6-pack gives you enough coverage for a whole property. They're made from paper so you’ll need to keep them dry or replace them every season. However, at this price, that’s barely a concern. You can also combine it with a bait trap to give your garden even better coverage.

Solar Wasp Traps

Jahy2Tech Wasp Traps Outdoor Hanging With Led Light

If you’re always forgetting to turn things on, this solar-powered option is perfect for you. These charge during the day with a small solar panel and use an LED light at night to attract wasps and other flying insects. This means the trap is effective at night, which is perfect for those summer parties that go late into the night.

The 3-funnel design keeps wasps inside, and the ABS construction is weatherproof. Hang them at least 4 feet high for best results. The pack of 4 means you can cover a full garden or spread them between patios and a seating area simultaneously. This is a solid choice if you have a bigger garden where one trap isn’t going to cut it.

The right peony care in July will have a huge impact on how well your plant flowers next year. Now your peony is done flowering for this summer, it gets busy making and storing the energy it needs to grow the next set of glorious blooms. Help your plant with this task, and you’ll be richly rewarded with even more beautiful ruffles of petals next spring.

Once July's glorious show of opulent petals is over, it’s all too easy to forget about your peony plant for the rest of the summer. And without targeted midsummer care, your peony will still flower next year. But, with the right nurturing, you’ll support your plant to grow the biggest, blousiest blooms, ever. The right summer care is especially important this year, as there’s no telling how long this heatwave will last, and heat-stressed plants will prioritise basic survival over another season of bountiful blooms. And why miss this opportunity when giving your peony the care it needs in July is quick and easy?

July peony care isn’t complicated, but these four simple tasks will help your plant through the stress of high summer temperatures, and allow it to focus on storing the fuel it needs for fabulous flowers next year.

1. Prune Spent Flowers to Grow Stronger Roots

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The vast majority of peonies begin to form seeds in leathery pods as soon as flower petals start to fade. This uses lots of energy that could be put towards growing a bigger root system to provide for more abundant flowers next year. So, your first priority when it comes to summer peony care is to snip old blooms off. Use a sharp pair of bypass pruners to deadhead peonies – and do sharpen the blades first if you haven’t for a while, because clean cuts are easier for the plant to heal – to snip off the stem just above the first healthy leaf below the faded flower.

To avoid pests and fungal disease, it’s best to put snipped flowers in the trash rather than letting them drop to the ground.

Intersectional (Itoh) peonies and a few modern hybridized peony cultivars are sterile so don’t produce seeds, but it’s wise to still deadhead these both to keep your plant tidy and avoid disease.

Speedy Sharpener

Corona Tools Handheld Garden Tool Blade Sharpener

Trusted brand

Fiskars SmartFit Steel Bypass Hand Pruner

Sturdy tub

Life Story 17-Gallon Plastic Tub With Handles

2. Clear Dead and Damaged Leaves to Avoid Disease

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Peonies are susceptible to several fungal diseases, which stress the plant. A diseased plant will use up valuable energy fighting the infection, affected leaves won’t be able to photosynthesize, and left untreated, some fungal diseases can even kill it. Fungi are able to lie dormant over winter, too, directly affecting next year’s blooms.

While botrytis blight, often called peony blight and gray mold, usually attacks in spring, you may spot powdery mildew on peonies in summer, with leaves looking like they are dusted with fine white flour. If peony leaf blotch, often called peony measles, went undetected in spring, you may also see this in July, too, when the small red spots will start to merge into dark, irregular patches (pictured above).

Gather up any leaves that have fallen to the ground as well as removing dead or damaged leaves from the plant, and dispose of them in the trash to avoid reinfection. It’s also important to wipe pruners with disinfecting alcohol such as MaxTite 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol from Amazon between cuts. Identifying the peony disease will determine if you need to take any further precautions.

Leave healthy green foliage in place for now as all these leaves act as solar panels through summer and into fall, photosynthesizing to produce energy that will be stored in the plants fleshy tubers, ready to power next year's growth. Wait until the foliage has died after the first frost, before pruning herbaceous peonies in late fall.

3. Water Deeply Once a Week

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Established peonies are relatively drought tolerant, which makes it easy to skip over these plants in your watering round. But if you're wondering how to get bigger peony flowers next year, irrigation is a critical part of your care plan. Right now, the plant is using all that energy it’s making with its leaves to grow a stronger root system but, from next month into fall, it will begin forming microscopic, embryonic buds called ‘eyes’ just below the soil surface. These eyes will lie dormant all winter and, next spring, burst into life, throwing stems upwards with baby flowerbuds already formed.

Think of these summer months post-flowering as bud-planning time, and you’ll understand why keeping your peony hydrated now will lead to a better display of blooms next year.

However, it’s important to water peonies properly, giving your plants a weekly deep soak rather than a daily sprinkling. Irrigating deeply so water penetrates deep into the soil encourages the root system to follow the moisture downwards, making the plant more resilient; daily light watering leads to weaker, surface-level roots. Because peony roots are fleshy tubers, restricting watering to once a week at most ensures the soil doesn’t become waterlogged, when tubers may rot.

Young or recently planted peony plants that haven’t yet grown a strong root system, and peonies in containers, will need watering more often.

Water the soil rather than getting the leaves wet, to reduce the risk of fungal infection.

4. Improve Nutrients and Moisture With a Mulch

(Image credit: Vasil Dimitrov / Getty Images)

The final step of what peonies need in July is a 2-inch layer of mulch laid on the soil surface to help lock moisture in. You can use any natural material such as homemade compost, leftover all-purpose potting soil or a purpose-made mulch. The advantage of using a natural mulch is that nutrients will be washed into the earth to slowly feed the plant, and the organic matter will eventually rot down to improve the soil structure for healthy growth.

Use a bow rake, spreading the mulch with the tines then flipping the rake over to level the mulch with its flat edge.

It’s important not to swamp the centre of the plant with mulch, as a crown that’s buried too deeply won’t flower well, and organic material holding water against stems can lead to rot. Peonies have wide rather than deep root systems so spread the mulch around the plant, keeping it away from the central stems.

Dye-Free

Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch 1.5 Cu Ft

Great rake

Kobalt Fibrelass-Handle Forged Steel Bow Rake

Light to Carry

Back to the Roots Organic Coconut Husk Chip Mulch

The Common Mistake That Could Harm Your Peony in July

It might seem sensible to feed your peony in July, to give the plant more energy to form those all-important roots and eyes, but don’t be tempted. Fertilize your peony now and you won’t be doing the plant any favors.

For a start, peonies are light feeders and the general rule of thumb is not to fertilize this plant unless you have a reason to. While it’s usual – though by no means essential – to feed peony plants in spring, once those beautiful fresh red shoots are around 2-4 inches tall, feeding in late summer can interrupt the plant’s natural cycle. Fuelling new growth at this point in the year may interfere with the plant’s preparations to go into dormancy in fall.

While some folk do fertilize immediately after flowers fade, feeding this late in the summer – even with a lower-nitrogen fertilizer – will encourage the plant to waste energy on new leaves rather than storing it in its tubers, ready for next spring. That extra foliage growth can leave a plant more susceptible to fungal disease once wetter weather arrives, too.

A natural mulch will give your peony all the nutrients it needs, without any extra fertilizer. If you’re at all worried about your peony, or think the plant is showing signs that it’s not getting all the nutrients it needs, then don't fertilize 'just in case'. Instead, test your soil to find out exactly what the problem is, with a lab-based soil test kit such as Sta-Green from Lowe’s.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Peony care in July is all about keeping your plant happy and healthy so it can put all its energy into growing next year's buds and a strong root system to support them. Deadheading, removing damaged leaves, watering deeply and mulching will ensure your peony has everything it needs to flower beautifully next spring. While you'll have to wait a while for the results, the fabulous flowers will be well worth your efforts.

July is the middle of summer and the growing season, when temperatures soar and droughts are possible. You might be very excited by some of the dazzling nursery shrubs showcasing their finest blooms and colors. That’s understandable, but trust me, when it comes to key popular and well-loved specimens, now is far from the ideal time for planting them. Certain shrubs really struggle when transplanted now.

So how do you know which shrubs are off limits, and which are worth a punt? Well, the answer lies in their natural heat tolerance. Shrubs that are heat-sensitive are likely to struggle with summer planting and transplanting. When you drop a sensitive species into baking midsummer earth, it enters a state of high shock, dropping leaves and aborting future flower buds just to stay alive. So what you need are shrubs that are more equipped to thrive in prolonged heat.

By leaning into heat-hardy, summer-resilient options, you can bypass the drama and indulge in some satisfying new shrub acquisitions that are sure to have the neighbors’ tongues wagging. Read on, as I reveal a handful of popular specimens that are best avoided for planting now – plus, those tough and beautiful choices that will establish with minimal fuss, quickly adding vivid dynamics in abundance.

Heat Tolerant Shrubs for July Planting

The heat-hardy shrub alternatives below are all fine for summer planting, as long as you take a few steps before and after you plant. You’ll give them the best chance of establishing well if you minimize transplant stress. This means watering your shrubs deeply and regularly, especially during any dry spells. Keep watering through the growing season to help them develop strong, deep roots. A little afternoon shade is also helpful, even for plants that have good heat tolerance.

Consider your hardiness zone and existing soil conditions before planting. Before digging, check your ground temperature and hydration levels using a good soil diagnostic. A tool like the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon US gives you real-time moisture and temperature readouts at the root zone. Where conditions are especially heavy clay or sand, blend a little organic matter (such as aged compost) into the planting hole to help with moisture retention, drainage, and oxygen flow.

(Image credit: SOE / Shutterstock)

Immediately after planting these heat-loving shrub alternatives, it’s a good idea to spread a 2-to-3-inch (5-8 cm) layer of organic mulch around the shrub. Our team loves Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from The Home Depot as a way to preserve water levels and lower temperatures. If you don’t have a commercial mulch to hand, try a homemade blend of shredded hardwood bark and composted leaf mold (just make sure the mulch doesn’t touch the main stem).

Plant during an early morning or a cloudy evening, and your lovely shrub alternatives should flourish. So, with the soil suitably prepped, let's look at the key shrubs you should avoid planting in summer, along with my recommendations for gorgeous alternatives.

1. Bigleaf Hydrangea – Plant Panicle Hydrangea

(Image credit: OlesyaBasova / Getty Images)

Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla) is well loved for its abundance of flower clusters in shades from brightest pink to periwinkle blue. However, planting one in July is a mistake, as they are sensitive to heat. Even established plants can wilt and struggle now. Bigleafs have massive, thin leaves, which evaporate quickly in July. If you do fancy planting a hydrangea now, try a panicle variety (H. paniculata), which is more heat-tolerant. Panicles bloom with cones that transition from green to white to pink to rust in tone. They thrive in full sun and tolerate drier conditions than their bigleaf cousins, with tougher foliage and woody stems in zones 3-9.

(Image credit: Ken Welsh / Alamy)

Striking panicle hydrangea varieties include Limelight or compact Little Lime erupt into giant, conical flower heads starting in mid-to-late summer, and transitioning to deeper tones that hold structural interest through winter. For a charming, dual-toned panicle that works well in a range of soil types, try Vanilla Strawberry Panicle Hydrangea from Fast Growing Trees. Topdress the base immediately at planting time with some Dr. Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Walmart. This helps to gently supply the nutrients required to nurture roots as they establish.

2. Rhododendron – Plant Mountain Laurel

(Image credit: Magicflute002 / Getty Images)

Rhododendrons (Rhododendron spp.) come in many forms, including native species, but none tolerates too much midsummer heat. They thrive in shady, cool areas with plenty of moisture, and reward you with an abundance of spring flowers and leathery leaves. Plant them now, and they’ll struggle to stay hydrated and get established. For a similar (yet tougher) native shrub with leathery, evergreen leaves and spring flowers, try mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia). Prized for its star-burst blooms, mountain laurel brings vivid structural intensity to partially shady spots.

(Image credit: C.Male / Alamy)

There are some gorgeous mountain laurel options available from Plant Addicts, including vibrant Kaleidoscope Mountain Laurel and voluminous Yankee Doodle. Give it plenty of water as it gets established in July to ensure success in zones 4-9. Ensure the soil is highly acidic, loose, and rich in organic matter. For a gentle acidic lift at the time of planting, mix a generous helping of Espoma Organic Holly-Tone Fertilizer from Amazon into your planting site. This safely lowers soil pH and provides a steady boost to promote robust buds for the following spring.

3. Japanese Maple – Plant Ninebark

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) can be grown as a shrub or small tree. It’s prized for its delicate, feathery leaves, which offer a rainbow of fall colors. The heat can be a problem, though. The fine leaves dry and scorch easily, and the thin roots will struggle to develop in dry, hot soil. They can make it through a hot summer, but it’s not the best time to plant them. A better option is native ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius), with ornamental value in the form of peeling bark. Certain varieties also offer rich fall color and seed pods for birds. Try First Editions Ninebark Amber Jubilee and Proven Winners Ninebark Tiny Wine from Nature Hills.

(Image credit: Feifei Cui Paoluzzo / Getty Images)

Ninebark is far more tolerant of summer heat and drought, and it’s not too picky about soil type. Hardier in zones 3-8, they just require full-sun to maintain their rich foliage colors. They are highly adaptable to poor, rocky soils where other shrubs fail. To help their root systems establish quickly in dry spells, apply a drench of GS Plant Foods Organic Concentrated Liquid Kelp from Walmart right after planting. This liquid seaweed formula delivers a soaking of trace minerals which reduce the risk of heat stress, keeping this shrub’s tones going strong.

4. Boxwood – Plant Inkberry Holly

(Image credit: Diane Labombarbe / Getty Images)

Boxwood (Buxus spp.) is a garden favorite. Its dense evergreen growth can be shaped into low borders, hedges, and topiaries. Unfortunately, the shallow roots of transplanted boxwood make it vulnerable to heat and drought stress in July. Midsummer planting also invites boxwood blight and spider mites. For a stronger alternative, try inkberry holly (Ilex glabra), which thrives in zones 5-9. This native evergreen has a similar dense growth and smooth leaves. A great option for low hedges or containers is the Proven Winners Gem Box Inkberry Holly from Walmart.

(Image credit: Alamy)

Inkberry won’t tolerate drought very well, but it can handle heat and humidity better than boxwood. Plant it somewhere that holds some moisture in the soil. Varieties like 'Strongbox' or 'Gem Box' stay tight, compact, and mounded. As well as handling sun and partial shade, these shrubs love slightly acidic soil. To build excellent soil texture and maximize water retention, add some Worm Bliss Premium Earthworm Castings from Amazon into the planting hole for a gentle, non-burning nutrient foundation.

5. Japanese Pieris – Plant Summersweet

(Image credit: Ali Majdfar / Getty Images)

Japanese pieris (P. japonica) is an evergreen shrub with year-round beauty, including glossy, sometimes bi-colored leaves and cascading spring flowers. However, this shrub is tested in hot conditions, as the root system is shallow and high heat can scorch the leaves. Planted in July, it frequently succumbs to lace bug attacks and leaf drop. It’s best to plant this shrub in spring. For a compelling native alternative, summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) is hardy in zones 3-9. Although it is deciduous, it has a similar look to Japanese pieris, also with white flowers that attract pollinators.

(Image credit: Aimintang / Getty Images)

Cultivars like Ruby Spice or Hummingbird produce vertical flower spikes from July through August, filling the yard with a heavy fragrance. For wine-soaked flowering spires, try Clethra Ruby Spice Live Plants from Wayside Gardens. Summersweet blooms reliably even in shade, making it a perfect choice for gloomier corners. Because sticky summer humidity can breed foliar issues on transplants, you might find it helps to keep some Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart handy. Apply as a foliar spray to keep leaves protected against powdery mildew.

Shop Summer Shrub Heroes

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Indulging in some new shrub appreciation in summer doesn’t have to mean endless hours of stressful plant care. By picking natives and weather-resilient varieties that shrug off humidity, drought and intense sun, you can fill your borders, pathsides and porchways with immediate color that often leads to dazzling multi-seasonal interest. These curated selections establish quickly in warm soil, providing lush foliage and gorgeous blooms that keep your garden looking lush and pretty through fall.

Summer Shrub Trio

Fragrant Spires

Plant Addicts Ruby Spice Summersweet

Adding a splash of wine-soaked richness and an unforgettable perfume to your yard, summersweet really lives up to its name. It develops lovely rose-pink bottlebrush spikes through late summer, it’s resilient in shaded spots, and it attracts a host of pollinators while keeping borders vibrant.

Dual-Toned Drama

Fast-Growing-Trees.com Vanilla Strawberry Panicle Hydrangea

This panicle variety is like an ornamental milkshake, producing massive flower heads that emerge white before turning raspberry-pink. Adaptable across a range of soil conditions and growing zones, this hydrangea delivers dramatic color shifts with minimal care.

Star Spangled

Plant Addicts Kaleidoscope Mountain Laurel

If you want an evergreen option that can take a break from uniform green, this eye-catching mountain laurel showcases intricate, star-burst blooms of crimson and pale pink. It thrives in partial shade, and its leathery foliage stays sharp and polished all year long.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Lawns are both thirsty and needy - and that means big water bills and intensive maintenance for homeowners. Even those who love the golf-course look of green expanses of turf grass are considering switching them out for something easier and more ecological.

Rockeries have both charm and low-maintenance appeal. Creating a modern, water-wise rock garden that includes hardy ornamental grasses solves so many turfgrass problems while offering a delightful and dramatic landscape. These river rocks from Amazon are a great base to build around.

(Image credit: Welcomia/Getty Images)The (Many) Problems with Turfgrass

(Image credit: Bilal photos / Getty Images)

I live by a golf course and often walk my dog there early in the morning, before the golfers arrive. But though there are no golfers, I am never alone. Maintenance people seem to be on duty every morning, turning on sprinklers, applying fertilizer, cutting the grass, filling holes with soil and grass seed, and raking.

This is awaiting any homeowner who buys a home with a lawn or decides to install one. Lawns need water to stay lush and green – and what’s the use of having a lawn if it isn’t lush and green? Lawns need fertilizer and pesticides. Lawns need regular haircuts. Lawns take up all the space and these monocultures are ecologically barren, neither providing food or native habitats for local pollinators, birds, or insects.

The (Many) Benefits of a Rockery

(Image credit: Galina Sandalova / Getty Images)

A rockery or rock garden is a form of xeriscaping, an increasingly popular landscaping method that dramatically reduces the need for supplemental irrigation. Using drought-tolerant plants and moisture-retaining mulch, it can lower outdoor water use by 50 percent or more while requiring significantly less maintenance.

If you create a water-wise rockery and install hardy ornamental grasses, your landscape will suddenly be the talk of the neighborhood. Instead of the square plot of green carpet, you’ll boast a low maintenance landscape with incredible visual appeal. The architectural shapes of the stones contrast with the soft, flowing foliage to add texture, fluidity, and visual drama.

How to Transition a Patch of Lawn into a Rock Garden1. Check for and Obtain Any Necessary Permits

(Image credit: Maskot / Getty Images)

Does your city or water agency require you to apply for permission to begin digging up your yard? That depends on where you live. Call your city government and find out what you need. It’s important to have it in hand before you pick up the shovel. While you have the phone in hand, ask about possible rebates. In California, many city water companies offer impressive rebates to those who swap out their lawns

2. Remove the Turfgrass

(Image credit: Nata Dietrich / Getty Images)

You will need to get rid of the existing turfgrass before putting in a rock garden. Otherwise it will sprout through and into your rockery. The easiest way to remove a lawn is to smother it. All you need is ample amounts of cardboard or newspaper to get started.

Spread it around covering the turfgrass, then wet it down thoroughly. Cover the wet paper with soil, then leave it alone for two months. The turf grass will die. At that point, remove the soil and the cardboard or newspaper, and use a sod cutter or a spade to completely remove the dead grass.

3. Outline the Borders

(Image credit: TG23/Getty Images)

You will have figured out the size and shape of your rock garden before you started the project. Now is the time to create a clean border. This will outline the rock garden and keep the rocks where they belong.

Here’s how to proceed: dig a trench around the perimeter. It doesn’t have to be huge, just large enough to install rigid landscape edging. You could use metal edging, plastic edging or stone edging.

4. Select and Plant the Ornamental Grasses

(Image credit: AVERAR)

Choose two or three different types of ornamental grasses. Pick those suited for rock gardens, like blue fescue (Festuca glauca), Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra), or blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens). Other possibilities include feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) or little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) that thrive in rocky, well-draining soil.

Buy plants at the garden store, then dig holes twice as deep and wide as the nursery pot. Place the plants in the holes and backfill with soil.

Pink Muhly Grass

Adagio Maiden Grass

Porcupine Grass

5. Place the Rocks

(Image credit: beekeepx / Getty Images)

You’ll need some large boulders and many smaller rocks. The largest are also your "feature rocks," and you’ll want to place them first. Bury the bottom third of each feature rock into the ground. That makes the area look natural.

6. Add Irrigation

(Image credit: Maxvis)

Your best bet is to install low-flow drip irrigation. This is how you will provide the minimal irrigation required by your ornamental grasses.

7. Cover the Soil with Landscape Fabric

(Image credit: cjp / Getty Images)

Unroll heavy-duty, commercial-grade landscaping fabric over the bare soil. This will keep down all weed growth. Cut X shapes into the fabric where grasses are installed, then fold by the fabric around the base of the grasses. Spread a layer of decorative gravel or crushed stone across the fabric.

Shop Rock Garden Essentials

Heavy Duty Landscape Fabric

Drip Irrigation System Kit

40 lbs Grey Pea Gravel

Pamela Anderson has given us plenty of garden inspiration over the years, but her latest Instagram video might just be her most enviable yet.

Yes, the talented actor recently shared a glimpse inside her sprawling kitchen garden, and it feels like stepping into a storybook. Rustic raised beds stretch across the landscape, rustic willow obelisks twist skywards between overflowing vegetables and flowers, and a squash-covered archway leads visitors deeper into the space.

Towering sunflowers sway alongside fluffy pink roses (a Pamela staple), while a charming tabletop greenhouse anchors a seating area tucked into the middle of it all. And it is... well, it is all impossibly beautiful, quite honestly. Not that I'm jealous or anything.

Pamela Anderson's Raised Beds Set-Up

At first glance, Pamela Anderson's garden looks impossibly luxurious, and impossibly expensive. But once you look beyond the mature planting, it's surprisingly clear that much of the magic comes from repeating a handful of simple design ideas.

Check it out:

A post shared by Pamela Anderson (@pamelaanderson)

A photo posted by on

You see what I mean? And so, whether you're starting with a single raised bed or planning an entire kitchen garden, these are the ideas worth borrowing from the screen icon turned gardener extraordinaire:

1. Layer Raised Beds for a Lush Look

The first thing you'll notice in Pamela Anderson's garden is the sheer number of raised beds (why have one when you can have, say, twenty or so?). Pamela mixes beds of different sizes and heights, creating a garden that feels layered, established, and full of movement.

Better still, each bed blends vegetables and ornamentals together. Lavender grows alongside onions, nasturtiums spill over the edges, and flowering plants soften every hard line, making the vegetable garden feel every bit as beautiful as a flower border.

If you're recreating the look, choose simple wooden raised beds in a light, natural finish and repeat the same style throughout your space. Even adding two or three beds instead of one instantly creates a more intentional, cottage-inspired layout.

Shop Raised Beds:

Luxe Wooden Vibes

Patiomore Wooden Raised Garden Bed

Divided into two growing areas , this is fab for mixing vegetables and flowers alike.

Durable Space Saver

SnugNiture Snugniture 2 Pcs Oval Metal Raised Garden Bed

For a compact metal option that won’t rust or bow, this SnugNiture bed is a total steal.

Go Big Or Go Home

Yaheetech Wooden Raised Garden Bed

Made from solid wood without paint for long-lasting use, these beds are easy to set up.

2. Grow Squash Over a DIY Archway

(Image credit: Laura Walters / Future)

One of the most eye-catching features of Pamela Anderson's garden is the squash-covered archway winding through the beds.

While it looks like something from a grand estate, the structure itself is surprisingly easy to recreate, especially if you follow our how-to guide for building a cattle panel trellis, which uses inexpensive cattle panels bent into an arch and secured with T-posts to create a sturdy trellis for climbing crops.

Once squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, or pole beans begin scrambling overhead, the metal all but disappears beneath the foliage, creating a living tunnel that's as practical as it is beautiful. Win!

3. Add Sculptural Trellises Throughout the Garden

Okay, fine; Pamela Anderson's beautiful spiral obelisks appear to be handcrafted from willow, but you don't need to shell out for bespoke garden structures to achieve the same effect.

Sculptural trellises instantly add height and visual interest, even before climbing plants begin to grow (and you'd best believe that sweet peas, pole beans, clematis, and flowering vines all create the same whimsical cottage garden feel over time).

Shop Structural Trellis:

LUOzoyuans Spiral Iron Climbing Trellis

When you are not using these folding plant support cages, you can collapse them into very small disc and stash them away!

MELCHEF Expandable Teepee Wicker Plant Trellis

Wicker trellis can easily blend into its natural surroundings, letting your plants become the stars of your garden.

Unbranded Metal Obelisk Trellis 49.5 X 12 Inch for Climbing Plants Roses and Vines

How pretty is this elegant three-layer sphere design? This sleek obelisk is a great way to add extra impact to your set-up.

Repeating several of the same trellis designs throughout your raised beds also helps unify the space while drawing the eye upward., in true Pamela Anderson style!

4. Plant Roses Among Your Vegetables

(Image credit: flashbacknyc/Getty Images)

Pamela Anderson's love of roses is well documented, and they're a big part of what makes her garden feel so romantic.

Instead of keeping roses in a dedicated border, she allows them to mingle with vegetables and other flowering plants, blurring the line between ornamental and edible gardening.

Bare-root roses are one of the most affordable ways to establish new plants, and they'll reward you with years of blooms. If you're hoping to channel Pamela's style, a lush, old-fashioned variety like the Yves Piaget rose (available at Grace Rose) is a beautiful place to start. Mind you, the Reminiscent® Pink Rose from Nature Hills also boasts abundant lush pink blooms with powerful old-fashioned fragrance from late spring through early fall, so the choice is yours!

5. Use a Mini Greenhouse as a Garden Focal Point

One detail that's easy to overlook is the mini greenhouse nestled in the seating area at the center of Pamela Anderson's garden.

Rather than ending with rows of vegetables, Pamela creates a place to pause with a simple table and chairs, but she makes it even more inviting with a glass mini greenhouse, which doubles as a decorative focal point and a practical place to display seedlings, houseplants, or treasured cuttings.

Adding one to a seating area is a great way to make the space feel collected, cozy, and lived in. You can make it yourself easily enough, or treat yourself to one of our favorites below...

Shop Mini Greenhouses:

Unbranded Glass Terrarium

This glass terrarium has a brass tray with four little wheels, easy to move anywhere you like.

IKEA ÅkerbÄr Greenhouse

This white greenhouse from IKEA is ideal for small plants and herbs, indoors or outdoors. 

YIMORENCE V Glass Terrarium Planter

This glass greenhouse terrarium is great for raising succulent, moss, fern, cacti, or even the odd Venus fly trap.

6. Mix Flowers and Vegetables with Abandon

(Image credit: Mujie / Getty Images)

Perhaps the biggest takeaway from Pamela Anderson's garden isn't something you can buy at all.

Sunflowers tower over vegetables, nasturtiums tumble across pathways, herbs soften the edges of raised beds, and roses bloom alongside crops. Nothing feels rigid or overly planned, yet the entire garden feels cohesive, and I guess that's the real secret behind the cottage garden aesthetic. Instead of separating flowers from vegetables, let them grow together.

Organo Republic 20 Edible Flower Seeds Variety Pack

From borage to chives, nasturtiums to sunflowers, thus bumper seed pack contains 20 different types of edible flowers.

Not only will your garden look fuller and more romantic, but many flowering plants (hey there, marigolds) also attract pollinators and beneficial insects, making them just as useful as they are beautiful.

It is my suspicion that the real reason Pamela Anderson's garden is so captivating isn because she has spent as much time thinking about the atmosphere as she has planting schemes and the rest of it.

Think about it: from the overflowing raised beds, to the winding structures, to the feeling that every corner has something new to discover, it all combines to create a space that feels both productive and magical.

The good news is that none of those ideas require a celebrity-sized budget. Start with a couple of raised beds, add vertical interest with arches and trellises, weave flowers between your vegetables, and create a quiet spot to sit back and enjoy it all. Before long, you'll have a garden that captures the same storybook charm as Pamela Anderson's. No sprawling estate required.

A lopper like the Felco 211-60 could be an even better option than the best pruners for some gardeners. This is especially true for folks who have lots of trees to keep in perfect shape.

If you know how to prune a tree, you’ll be aware that some branches are too thick or too tough to cut with an ordinary pair of pruning shears. With their larger blades and two-handed operation, loppers can provide that extra cutting power, when you need it. They are on the pricier side, but you can sometimes find Felco 211-60 loppers on sale at Amazon.

The Felco 211-60 is a top-notch model of lopper made by Swiss brand Felco, which has been manufacturing gardening shears of various types since 1945. Measuring 23.6in, the 211-60 tool gives you a lot of leverage – as well as extended reach – to cut through fairly thick tree branches. It promises 40% greater cutting power, compared to the Felco 200 and 210 series loppers.

Bundled in with the Felco 211-60 comes one small, but very important, accessory: an adjustment key. This key can be used to take the lopper apart, or put its parts back together again. With the 211-60 (and many other Felco cutting tools), it’s recommended to dismantle the tool frequently for cleaning, sharpening of the blades, and replacing worn out parts. You can buy replacements for almost all of the 211-60’s components, so you can keep the lopper in great condition for many years, without ever needing to send it for repairs.

Do bear in mind that this is a lopper, which means the tool is designed mainly for cutting thick tree branches. A smaller (and sometimes sharper) type of pruning tool such as a pair of pruning shears will usually be more appropriate for delicate pruning tasks – especially pruning soft plant stems. If you’re in need of a high-quality, specialized tool for tree pruning, the 211-60 could be a perfect solution.

To find out how the 211-60 compared to rival pruners and loppers, we put the tool through its paces in a hands-on testing process at our reviewer’s home. Read on to find out whether the Felco 211-60 really is the top of the loppers.

Powerful Pruners

FELCO Felco 211-60 Pruners

Don't throw away the 211-60's instruction booklet: the tool's adjustment key is inside. (Image credit: Pete Wise)Felco 211-60 Lopper: At a Glance

Swiss tool-maker Felco is legendary, in green-thumbed circles, for its finely crafted cutting tools. Pruning shears, in particular, are Felco’s specialty – but the brand makes some very good loppers, too.

The Felco 211-60 is a 23.6in pair of loppers which takes part of its name from its length, this being a European tool measuring 60cm. With a 1.4in cutting capacity, the 211-60 can cut larger branches than any one-handed pruner we’ve tested, while its two-handed operation, sharp blades and long handles generate a high level of cutting force.

You can purchase the Felco 211-60 online from retailers such as Amazon, at prices in the region of $70-100. That may seem like a big spend, but when you consider this tool’s ease of maintenance (and the availability of spare parts), the Felco 211-60 starts to look like a good-value long-term purchase.

Felco 211-60 Lopper: Key SpecsThe specs of our Felco 211-60 Lopper review unit

Type:

Lopper

Cutting capacity:

1.4in

Blade material:

Hardened steel

Grip:

Two-handed

Accessories:

Adjustment key

Felco 211-60 Lopper: Performance

During our hands-on testing, the Felco 211-60 never failed to cut through the branches of our reviewer’s trees (which are a mix of hard-wooded crabapple and pear trees). The blades made their way through the wood within a few seconds or less, even when we were dealing with branches over 1-inch thick.

Pete WisePete Wise

This being a lopper, not a pruner, a big part of its appeal is in the two-handed design, which should enable powerful, user-friendly cutting. On this front, the 211-60 delivers. The handles are comfortable and lightweight, thanks respectively to their ergonomic grips and aluminum construction. However, cutting large branches with the 211-60 did prove to be more strenuous than cutting similar branches with super-sharp Felco pruning shears, such as the Felco 6 Bypass Pruner.

The cutting blades of the Felco 211-60 Lopper, opened against a backdrop of grass. (Image credit: Pete Wise)

We really appreciated the shock absorbers on the insides of the 211-60’s handles. Located just below the cutting blades of the loppers, this feature reduces the level of vibration that reaches your hands and arms, which can make a big difference during extensive pruning.

To preserve the 211-60’s optimum performance, it’s recommended to oil the blades frequently. It’s also advised to take the tool apart and sharpen the blades from time-to-time. We were sure to carefully clean the blades after each use, to preserve the their good condition. Thanks to the bundled-in adjustment key, it was simple to disassemble and then reassemble the lopper. With that said, some users who don’t feel confident in taking it apart may feel reluctant to carry out this chore.

Our reviewer, cleaning the blades of the Felco 211-60 Lopper using a paper towel. (Image credit: Pete Wise)Felco 211-60 Lopper: Should You Buy?Felco 211-60 Lopper Score Card

Attribute

Notes

Rating

Price & availability

The tool has a high price point, but offers great long-term value.

4/5

Design

Superb lopper design, with powerful blades and lightweight handles.

4/5

Performance

Cuts a wide range of branches effectively, but requires some effort.

4/5

Buy it if...

Your trees have tough, thick branches.

The Felco 211-60 is capable of cutting very tough branches up to 1.4in thick. That’s a significantly greater cutting capacity than the average pruning shears.

Quality matters to you

This is a superbly constructed lopper that’s built to last. We were particularly impressed with the aluminum handles, which are tough yet lightweight.

Using a bit of muscle is okay with you

When you’re lopping with a manual tool like the Felco 211-60, you’ll use a bit more strength than you’d expend while using a power lopper.

Don't buy it if...

Tool maintenance is not your bag

It’s strongly recommended to take the Felco 211-60 apart regularly, so that you can clean and oil the blades, or replace parts. This won’t suit every user.

You need to cut branches over 1.4" thick

Loppers are limited to a certain cutting capacity, due to the design of their jaws. To cut the thickest of tree branches, you’ll need to use an alternative type of tool such as a pruning saw.

Funds are tight

While the Felco 211-60 offers very good long-term value, you can get a perfectly effective pruning tool at a much lower price.

How Does It Compare?

For cutting fairly thick tree branches, with a diameter somewhere around 1in to 1.4in, you’re unlikely to find a more effective lopper than the Felco 211-60. However, some of our other top-rated pruning tools might be a better fit for certain users.

Costing a fraction of the price of the 211-60, and featuring a simple, one-handed design, the Wolf-Garten Anvil Pruner RSEN from Amazon is an easy-going option that gives you much of the wood-pruning power of the 211-60 – although it doesn’t offer anything like the same reach or leverage.

If you have lots of thick tree limbs to cut, with diameters greater than the 211-60’s 1.4" limit, then you might want to consider using a different type of tool, known as a pruning saw. One very good example is the Greenworks 24V 6" Pruning Saw from Amazon, which is essentially a mini chainsaw that’s purpose-made for tree surgery.

How We Tested the Felco 211-60 Lopper

We tested the Felco 211-60 Lopper by using the tool to prune a variety of tree branches in our reviewer’s yard – from spindly twigs to tough branches over 1in thick. The trees used in testing were a mixture of pear trees and crabapple trees, both of which have hard wood that proves difficult to prune for some cutting tools. We also tested the 211-60’s ease-of-maintenance, by disassembling it and cleaning the blades.

It’s a common myth that growing vegetables requires a lot of time, effort, expensive tools and even a greenhouse. Of course, it's perfectly possible to raise a garden of fussy veggies that need daily care, but there is a far easier way to grow your own: choose low-maintenance vegetable varieties that flourish even if you miss a day or two of care. Whether you're a beginner gardener or just short on time, selecting easy, speedy vegetables to grow will bring you tasty harvests in return for very little effort.

We're very familiar with ornamental plants that practically grow themselves, but vegetables? No plants can be completely neglected when you're growing vegetables, but some are far more forgiving than others. One of the most time-consuming chores is watering, and while all veggies need water, some types and varieties are naturally better at coping with hot weather, dry spells, and those days when you just don’t have the time – or will – to water.

These are fast-growing, heat-tolerant vegetables so can all be sown in July. The warm soil in summer will help seeds germinate quickly, so plants produce a good harvest before the growing season ends. That makes these vegetables a great choice for children to grow, too – or if you simply want to experience the childlike joy of an uncomplicated homegrown harvest. Here's our pick of easy-going veggies you can still sow in July.

(Image credit: Getty Images)1. Zucchini 'Black Beauty'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Zucchini is a classic summer veggie, known for its abundant production and mild, versatile flavor. ‘Black Beauty’ is one of the most dependable cultivars and, even in hot, dry weather, it still produces heavily. The large leaves shade the soil, keeping it a little cooler and helping retain moisture, enabling the plant to bounce back after a missed watering or two.

Ideal for zones 3 through 10, zucchini ‘Black Beauty’ seeds are available from Burpee. And it couldn't be easier to grow Black Beauty zucchinis. Sow seeds in soil in full sun, and make sure there is plenty of space between plants – while this variety only reaches a foot high, it can spread 5-7 feet (though this stem growth doesn't need to be over soil). Water deeply once or twice a week and your zucchinis should be ready to harvest about 50 days after sowing seeds, making this one of the best vegetables to sow in July. Harvest regularly while the fruit are still small (6-8 inches) for the best flavor.

2. Cucumber 'Armenian Dark Green'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

‘Dark Green’ produces long, crisp cucumbers with no hint of bitterness. This is an excellent variety for a salad and for slicing to eat raw with dips, and is suitable for zones 2 through 10. The plants thrive in the heat of mid and late summer and grow readily and easily without too much intervention from you. The root system runs deep, so occasionally missing a watering won’t phase this cultivar.

Armenian Dark Green Cucumber seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Make sure you sow seeds in a spot with full sun and, if possible, provide a support for the vine to climb. While you can grow cucumbers along the ground, a trellis or fence keeps fruits out of the dirt and saves space. Water as consistently as possible and harvest the cucumbers when they are between 12 and 18 inches long, about 65 days after sowing the seeds.

3. Bush Beans 'Contender'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Growing bush beans is straightforward, and 'Contender' is a particularly forgiving variety as it will tolerate some dry periods. Forgetting to water this plant might slow production of tender, stringless bean pods, but it won't stop it altogether. ‘Contender’ is appropriate for zones 3 through 9.

Contender Bush Bean seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Direct-sow seeds for this bush bean in full sun, in the ground or a large container. Water regularly, but don’t worry if you do so imperfectly. Compared to other types, this variety continues to thrive in hot weather, and the beans should be ready in about 50 days after sowing. Harvest beans regularly to encourage more production.

4. Carrot 'Red Cored Chantenay'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When you're considering vegetables to sow in summer, don't discount carrots. 'Red Cored Chantenay' develops shorter roots than other cultivars, which makes it easier for new or time-pushed gardeners to get a good harvest, as the short length means they are less likely to turn out misshapen. This variety also has tops that tolerate heat well. An heirloom carrot variety, it has a sweet flavor and is great for eating raw and for cooking.

Red Cored Chantenay Carrot Seeds are available from Walmart. To grow carrots, sow seeds in place, either in the ground. Because of its shorter roots, this is also one of the best veggies to grow in containers for a productive kitchen garden on your patio. Suitable for zones 3 through 10, ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ does best in full sun or some dappled shade and with soil that stays consistently moist, especially in the seedling stage. While you’ll still enjoy a good harvest even with a little neglect, the best carrots develop with regular and consistent watering.

5. Okra 'Clemson Spineless'

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Okra is an unsung hero of the garden, but if you learn how to cook this tasty veggie, you’ll benefit from a fast-growing plant that’s easy for beginners and busy gardeners to grow. The flowers are so pretty, too, and because the fruit pods grow vertically upwards, this is an attractive plant to have in your garden. It's a heat-lover, too, so this is one of the best vegetables to start from seed in July.

Even among other heat-loving okra varieties, ‘Clemson Spineless’ is extremely drought and heat-tolerant, thriving even if you neglect it a little or if the weather becomes unseasonably hot and dry. Clemson Spineless Okra seeds are available from Botanical Interests. Sow these okra seeds in a spot with full sun and water as regularly as possible. Grow okra and within 30 to 60 days, you’ll have tender young okra fruits to harvest. Okra is suitable to grow in zones 2 to 10, but hotter weather is best.

6. Pole Beans 'Rattlesnake'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Pole beans differ from bush beans in that they grow on a vine, and ‘Rattlesnake’ is a colorful variety of pole bean with pods striped in green and purple. Suitable for zones 4 through 10, this cultivar grows quickly, so you still have time for a good harvest this year.

It also forgives inconsistent watering better than other varieties, still providing a heavy yield, and Rattlesnake Pole Bean seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Sow seeds in full sun next to a support the vine can climb like a trellis, arbor, fence, or even patio banister. While it appreciates regular moisture, this pole bean will bounce back after short dry spells.

7. Black-Eyed Cowpeas

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Cowpeas are easy to grow, and grow fast, with pods maturing in about 60 days after sowing. That cowpeas are often used as cover crops between growing seasons to maintain soil health and enrich it with nitrogen shows you how what a low-maintenance vegetable this plant is. But you can also grow this veggie for an edible harvest. Cowpeas grow in areas and conditions that are tough for other vegetables, and naturally form upright, bushy plants, so this is a great option for beginners and busy gardeners who want to be more hands-off.

Black-Eyed Cowpea seeds are available from Eden Brothers and you can grow cowpeas in zones 5 through 11 as they handle the heat of midsummer very well. You can harvest fresh pods or leave them to dry to use later. Sow seeds for cowpeas in full sun and water regularly until they get established. Then you can largely leave them alone, and the plants will still thrive.

Successful vegetable gardening isn’t about doing everything perfectly. Start with these forgiving varieties of tasty veggies and simply provide as much consistent care as you can. The plants will thrive and give you a good harvest, even when your care is imperfect.

A spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) asks for very little, which is half its charm. But July is the month it pays to give your plants a bit of attention. Warm rooms and bright summer light have spider plants growing fast, throwing out new leaves, and long stems that end in baby plantlets. Give your plant what it wants now and, by late summer, you'll be looking at a full, cascading plant with spiderettes to spare.

Good spider plant care functions on the same handful of principles year-round, but July shuffles the order of priorities. Heat puts water and light near the top of the to-do list and it opens up the best stretch of the year for multiplying your spider plant into a fuller flush of spiderettes.

A few small jobs over the coming weeks and the results turn up in the leaves and lots of new spider babies. Here’s what your spider plant needs this month to keep it thriving for the rest of the year.

1. Water Steadily

(Image credit: Csikiphoto / Shutterstock)

A spider plant that took a week to dry out in spring can go dry in a few days once July heat sets in. So check more often. Sticking a finger into the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil will help you tell if soil is dry enough for another watering. Or use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Amazon.

Water your spider plants so that the soil is evenly moist, but never soggy and never bone dry. Let it swing between those extremes and the plant sulks, pouring what energy it has into hanging on rather than making spiderettes.

The water itself is worth a thought here, too, since spider plants are unusually touchy about water quality. Fluoride and chlorine in tap water build up over time and show up as crispy brown leaf tips on spider plants. Rainwater, distilled water, or tap water that you left out overnight avoids the problem. It's an easy swap to make once the tips start browning.

2. Feed Lightly

(Image credit: JulieAlexK / Getty Images)

All that summer growth runs on nutrients. But spider plants are light feeders, so treating one like a hungry tomato can actually do more harm than good.

Applying a half-strength liquid houseplant food, every two to four weeks while it's actively growing, keeps the foliage deep green and the plantlets coming. Something gentle, like this Grow Queen Organic Liquid Indoor Plant Food from Amazon, does the job at a reduced dose.

Pour on more than that and it backfires. Excess fertilizer leaves salts behind in the soil and those salts can burn the leaf tips the same way hard tap water does. A plant that’s busy coping with that won't have spare energy for producing spiderettes.

If you've already overdone it and given your plant too much fertilizer, run plain water through the pot for a minute to flush out the mineral buildup, then dial back fertilizing your spider plant.

3. Give It Bright, Indirect Light

(Image credit: ArtCreationsDesignPhoto / Shutterstock)

Light is the lever that most affects whether you get spider plantlets at all. A spider plant in a dim corner survives, but it stays sparse and rarely bothers with producing babies.

Set your plant where it get plenty of bright, indirect light – a little back from a sunny window, or right up against a north or east one. A mature plant answers by sending out more of the arching stems that become spiderettes.

Direct summer sun is the one thing to steer clear of. Midday rays through glass can scorch foliage, bleaching it pale and leaving burnt patches, especially on variegated types of spider plants.

If the leaves look washed out, move the pot back from the glass. A quarter turn each week keeps growth even, rather than the whole plant leaning toward the window.

4. Provide Plenty of Humidity

(Image credit: Dmitrii Marchenko / Getty Images)

Crank the air conditioning and your indoor air goes bone-dry, which spider plants feel keenly. Those same brown tips trace partly back to dry air. Dry, warm rooms are exactly what spider mites look for, too. They're ready to settle onto a plant that's already stressed. Nudging the humidity up a little shuts down both problems at once.

There are a couple other low-effort fixes that work well, too. Cluster a few plants together or stand the pot on a tray of pebbles and water and the air right around your spider plant stays moister.

Misting adds to the humidity as well, and a Fiskars plant mister from Amazon is just a thirty-second job on a hot morning. But one caution: don't leave foliage damp into the night because moisture sitting on the leaves invites fungal spots.

5. Pot Up Spiderettes

(Image credit: Nick Daly / Getty Images)

Those dangling plantlets on your spider plant are one of the big benefits of growing this houseplant and July is a good time to turn them into new plants. Once a spiderette has grown a few small nub-like roots of its own, it's ready to pot up to propagate more spider plants for free.

Here's the method that gives the best result: set 4-inch (10 cm) nursery pots, like these ones from Walmart, filled with damp potting mix right next to the parent plant, and peg the still-attached spiderette into the soil. It roots in place while the parent keeps feeding it.

A couple of weeks later, once it has taken hold in the fresh soil, snip the runner that joins it to the parent. Rooting spiderettes in a glass of water works as well, if you cut them off first, though the soil-and-peg method tends to produce a stronger plant.

Whichever route you take, the potted babies can fill out thin spots in your existing display and leave you extras to hand off to anyone who admires the original.

6. Repot If It's Crowded

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

Here's something a little counterintuitive: spider plants flower and set plantlets best when they're root bound, so hold off on repotting in July unless absolutely necessary. A snug pot encourages your plants to produce more babies.

Repot spider plants only when they genuinely need it. Signs your plant needs repotting are thick white roots shoving above the soil line and coiling out the drainage holes or a pot that dries within a day of watering.

When it really is time to repot, move up a single pot size and use fresh, well-draining potting mix, like this houseplant potting soil from Miracle-Gro. Jumping to a huge container can backfire, since all that extra wet soil around the roots invites rot and stalls the plant's growth while it tries to fill the space.

July's active growth means a spider plant bounces back from repotting fast, so it's a fine month for the job – as long as the plant actually needs it.

The Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 is not your average pruner. This tool belongs to a category known as pruning snips. These tools are smaller than most bypass pruners or anvil pruners, and they have a specialized design that’s ideal for accurate, delicate work. For careful pruning tasks, the SP13 is one of the best pruning tools you can buy.

These snips are best described as pruning scissors, because of their symmetrical design. The blades are narrow, sharply pointed, and have a cutting edge along their entire length. This design equips the snips to cut soft plants cleanly and precisely. Although the snips are small, they have relatively long blades, which is useful when you’re pruning among dense or tangled stems and leaves.

Their size (and especially the size of the blade) makes this pruning tool ideal for reaching into dense plant clusters and slicing in an efficient, tidy manner. It's also great for comfort, allowing for accurate positioning without straining the fingers.

Let's get this out of the way quickly, though. Pruning snips like the SP13 are not suitable for cutting tree branches. Even narrow twigs are a challenge for this type of pruning tool. This Fiskars model can work well as a go-to tool for the delicate cutting tasks. But using it to prune woody stems or branches will only result in failure (and likely degradation of the blades). For that work, you are better using a good pair of bypass shears.

What the SP13 can do well is cut tender plant parts. Because these snips cut so cleanly, they’re an ideal choice for pruning soft plant stems. The sort of clean cuts you can make with the SP13 tend to heal well. With plant-friendly cutting in mind, the SP13 is a great choice not only for pruning tasks like deadheading, but also for taking cuttings for propagation.

Overview

(Image credit: Pete Wise)

Finnish brand Fiskars is a leading name for affordable cutting tools. Founded in 1649, the company has a long history of designing scissors and shears for a range of tasks. For repetitive garden-based work like pruning, Fiskars has earned a solid reputation for thoughtful ergonomic designs. In this regard, the SP13 is no exception.

This snipping tool is designed to bridge the gap between heavy-duty yard tools (like PowerGear loppers and bypass pruners) and utility scissors. Its beauty lies in its size and control in narrow reaches and its comfortable spring action. You can find Fiskars Solid Snip SP13 online at Amazon for $21.44, as well as via the main Fiskars store, in their Snips & Scissors section.

If shopping at Walmart or hardware stores like The Home Depot or Lowe’s, you might see it listed as the Fiskars 6-inch Stainless Steel Micro-Tip Pruning Snips. You can currently buy the Titanium model of SP13 from Home Depot for $13.98.

Key Specs

Type

Pruning snips

Cutting capacity

Designed for pruning soft, narrow stems

Blade material

Stainless steel

Handedness

Left or right

Accessories

Safety sheath

Performance

(Image credit: Pete Wise)

Since these snips are purpose-built for cutting tender stems, I focused on delicate types of pruning work. I started by using the SP13 to cut the stems of tender bedding plants. The snips did a great job of cleanly pruning stems, without chewing the plant or leaving messy cuts. The SP13 turned out to be ideal for deadheading, too. Using the snips, I was able to remove dead flower heads accurately and with minimal effort.

After testing, strong winds knocked over a row of dahlias in my yard. The SP13 snips turned out to be the best and most convenient pruner for cutting the broken stems down to size, so the dahlia flowers could be displayed in a vase indoors.

During testing, the plastic locking button on the review sample of the SP13 snapped off after getting jammed. Thankfully, I experienced no such problem with the replacement sample I received from Fiskars. The SP13 is generally reviewed very well by customers. Just bear in mind that this is a budget-priced pruner. Don't expect stellar construction.

(Image credit: Pete Wise)Should You Buy?

Attribute

Notes

Rating

Price & availability

Very affordable, although this is reflected in the build quality.

3/5

Design

Neat and user-friendly – except for the lock button.

4/5

Performance

Superb at the most delicate cutting tasks.

4/5

Buy It If...

You’re into propagation

These snips are perfect for taking all kinds of cuttings, while minimizing damage to the mother plant.

Budget is tight

There are some downsides to a low-cost pruner, but the SP13 has far more plus points. It gives great snipping control without denting your credit card.

Heavy pruning shears give you arm-ache

Weighing just 1.5 oz, the SP13 is one of the lightest pruners you can buy. Plus, the sharp blades make for blissfully low-effort pruning.

Don't Buy It If...

You’re thinking long-term

The SP13 is a great model in the short-to-medium-term, but lacks the build quality for assured long-term use.

A tough tool is required

If you have tough stems or tree branches that need pruning, the SP13 will not be suitable. For powerful cutting, choose an anvil pruner or bypass pruner instead.

Young children are likely to get near the pruner

The sharp, pointy blades of the SP13 make this a great pruner for cutting soft plants, but they may also pose a risk to children.

How Does It Compare?

The precision pruning market is competitive, which is good news if you are looking for a reasonably priced set of pruning tools. But depending on your pruning needs, the density of your plants, and the thickness of your stems, you need a different blade style, length, or ergonomic tension system. These picks offer unique advantages for food-safe hygiene, adjustable handle spans, or professional-grade bypass power. Here is how they stack up against the Fiskars Solid Snip Micro-Tip SP13 when it comes to precision cutting, price points, and everyday garden reliability.

Food-Safe Harvesting

Fiskars Fiskars Garden Herb Pruning Shears

Sharing the same spring system as the SP13, this 5-inch (12 cm) model is explicitly tailored for the kitchen garden. This dishwasher-safe model has a slightly broader blade profile for rapidly bundling herbs or greens, but it loses a little deep-reach accessibility in tight plant clusters.

Adaptive Ergonomics

Fiskars Fiskars SmartFit 8-Inch Bypass Pruners

This award-winning tool has a heavy-duty bypass blade with a smart, adjustable thumb lever to adjust how wide the handles open, for supreme comfort no matter how big your hands are. It’s worth considering if you want something to help sever lots of branches around 3/4 inches (2 cm) thick.

Hydroponic Precision

Corona Corona Micro Pruning Snips (FS 4120)

The closest competitor to the SP13, these cutters target indoor growers and houseplant collectors. There’s a double-sided micro-tip blade for microscopic cuts in dense foliage. It has an integrated handle lock for safe storage, but its return spring is slightly stiffer than Fiskars' system.

How We Tested

Writer, Pete Wise, testing the Fiskars SP13. (Image credit: Pete Wise)

Our reviewer tested the Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 by using the snips to carry out light pruning tasks around the yard. He focused testing on slicing soft plant stems, deadheading flowering plants, and snipping stems to specific sizes for preparing cuttings and cutting flower arrangements.

First reviewed September 2023

Many people assume that flowering plants can be neatly divided into two categories: those that bloom and rebloom throughout the season, and those that only bloom once. The truth is a little more complicated. Careful deadheading of the first wave of fading flowers can trigger a rebloom on a few so-called one and done flowers.

An ornamental flower isn't just blooming to make your yard look pretty – it is flowering to reproduce by setting seeds. Once pollination occurs and seed heads form, the plant receives a signal that its seasonal work is effectively complete, causing it to transfer energy into seed maturation. By stepping in with some well-timed snips, you interrupt this cycle.

These cuts essentially trick the plant into believing its mission is not over, driving it to develop a vibrant, bonus round of fresh flower blooms. So don’t fret about summer’s charms fading all too soon. You can cheat the system and secure a stunning second flush of blooms with this simple, well-timed trim.

Simple Snips for Reblooming

First, it helps to know which flowers will not rebloom, no matter what cuts you make. These include peonies, oriental poppies, irises, and true lilies. Timing is key: you also need to avoid trimming plants back while they’re still actively blooming. Conversely, don’t want too long. Don’t wait until the spent flowers have developed seeds to deadhead, as then it’s too late.

A good pair of sharp pruning shears can be your best friend when it comes to extending summer blooms. Slicing through tender stems with dull, rusty blades creates ragged, bruised wounds that invite bacterial rots and fungal infections. For soft-stemmed bloomers, use precision shears, scissors or snips. Our team rates the Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears from Amazon for clean, surgical snips. Cut right above emerging nodes so you don’t tear surrounding foliage.

(Image credit: Jokuephotography / Getty Images)

USDA hardiness zone also impacts timing. In USDA zones 3-5, trim in early July to give the second flush enough warm days to flourish ahead of late fall and first frosts. Meanwhile, in the south, summer soil conditions can be parched. Trimming in a drought can be stressful for plants. Always give your borders a deep watering 12-24 hours before you deadhead. Water again after trimming, especially on hot days. Avoid feeds with excess nitrogen, which encourage leaves rather than flowers.

1. Delphinium

(Image credit: Brytta / Getty Images)

Delphinium (aka larkspur) is beloved for its dramatic, tall spikes of early summer flowers. But regal perennial giants (hardy in zones 3-7) fade way too quickly, and if left alone, they won’t rebloom. So it’s tempting to think they are true one-and-done flowers. But you can get a secondary flush if you cut the first spent flower spikes to the base, or to where you can see a side shoot forming. Do this after the flowers fade and before they develop seeds, and you’ll get secondary spikes.

While the secondary flush won’t be the same towering columns as the first wave, these bewitching blue spires will look stunning alongside late-season ornamental grasses. If you neglect to deadhead them, the plant will produce unsightly brown seed pods, rapidly declining into a tatty mound. To nourish that second wave, mix a few spoonfuls of phosphorus-rich Down to Earth Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s into the surrounding topsoil immediately after deadheading.

2. Roses

(Image credit: Jorgeantonio / Getty Images)

There are a few different categories of roses, including modern types that have been bred to rebloom throughout summer. Older rose varieties generally only bloom once, though, unless you do some attentive deadheading. If you have an older variety that only gives you one flush of flowers, trim back spent blooms as soon as you see the flowers fade. You should get a small additional rebloom late in the season.

When tackling classic shrub, old garden, or hybrid tea roses, the way you deadhead matters. Rather than simply snapping off the faded flower head, follow the stem down to the first leaf axis with 5 leaflets. Make a clean 45-degree cut, one-quarter inch (0.6 cm) above this outward-facing bud. If left untrimmed, roses grow decorative but energy-consuming rose hips, shutting down future flower production. To help roses bushes bounce back from summer heat stress, treat them to a bi-weekly application of Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon.

3. Catmint

(Image credit: Anna Gratys / Shutterstock)

Catmint (nepeta) is a perennial that gives a spectacular flush of purple flowers in early summer. Hardy down to zone 3, it is a joy for low-stress gardening. But once the flowers are spent, you’re left with a mess of floppy stems. When you see the flowers fade in midsummer, cut the entire mound back to about half its height. Grasp the floppy outer stems and shear the entire mound into a tight, neat dome using sharp hedging shears. It is very forgiving and responds well to this simple trim.

If you don’t deadhead, you’ll wind up with a sprawling, messy center that looks untidy for the rest of the year. Water well after trimming for a vibrant second round. Nepeta prefers lean, poor soils, so avoid heavy fertilizers. Instead, enrich the bed with Worm Bliss Premium Earthworm Castings from Amazon. This slow-release treatment boosts moisture retention while encouraging a lush second wave of lavender-blue.

4. Coreopsis

(Image credit: Thrillerfillerspiller / Alamy)

Also known as tickseed, coreopsis is a cheerful perennial that blooms abundantly in early summer. But when the spent blooms go to seed, they look messy. Coreopsis can keep blooming well into fall and responds well to deadheading. Do this regularly, whenever you see spent blooms. Treat threadleaf varieties like catmint and shear the top third of the plant away once the first massive wave finishes.

For large-flowered varieties, use micro-tip snips to cut spent stems down to the nearest healthy side bud. You might find it helps to add some Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix from Walmart around the root zone for drainage. Follow up with a sprinkle of Dr Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Amazon as the optimum foundation for non-stop color well into fall.

5. Salvia

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Salvia is a popular perennial that gives a dramatic profusion of early-season flowers in shades of blue and purple. Perennial salvias (such as 'May Night' or 'Caradonna') thrive in zones 4-9, and are loved for their rich texture and high drought tolerance. Once they fade, the plant can look messy, but the show doesn’t have to be over. Right after the first flush fades, trim plants back by one-third. When deadheading, locate the main stalk and cut it down to the base, where you’ll see new shoots.

If you don’t deadhead, these vibrant spikes dry into brittle black sticks that ruin the neat look of your borders. After deadheading, water deeply and add a light feed. New flower spikes should appear in weeks. Because dense salvia clumps are highly susceptible to powdery mildew, keep the foliage healthy with a little Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart. This protects the new, emerging leaves from fungal pathogens without harming the local pollinators that will drop by.

6. Garden Phlox

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Once the large clusters of flowers stop blooming on this hardy perennial (Phlox paniculata), it’s easy to assume that’s it. But as soon as your garden phlox looks spent, trim back the flower clusters, cutting just above the upper leaves. The second flush triggered by deadheading will consist of smaller, more delicate terminal flower clusters, extending your color window by up to four weeks.

If you leave the old heads intact, they drop inferior, non-true-to-color seedlings that can crowd out your original.Keep your deadheaded plants well-watered and add some fertilizer to encourage side shoots to develop where you’ve made cuts. To stop your phlox drying out during its secondary bud formation, dress the soil surface with a good organic mulch, like Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon. This locks in vital root moisture and shields the soil from intense summer sun stress.

7. Shasta Daisies

(Image credit: Thanachod Suya / Shutterstock)

These pretty daisies flower in spring and summer. Shasta daisies are tough in zones 5-9, but they turn a muddy brown as they fade. And once they fade, they look unsightly, and turn into seedheads if you leave them in place. Instead of letting that happen, cut spent Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum × superbum) flower stems to the base or a side bud. Do this regularly as each individual flower fades. Keep the plants watered to encourage fresh growth, and remove any foliage that goes yellow.

Slide your shears down the flower stem to where it connects to the foliage clump, making your cut hidden. Plants push out dense growth to support secondary blooms, so they are highly vulnerable to drying out. Give your Shastas a deep drink, and add a handful of Espoma Organic Chicken Manure from Walmart. This provides the slow-release nitrogen punch required to fuel fresh white blooms through to first frost.

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Spring purchased garden mums are the best choice for a colorful autumn display and the promise of a return after winter. But don’t neglect mums this summer if you want to ensure lots of blooms in the fall. Even if you dutifully pinch their growth back for a compact shape, there is more to do.

To encourage the most blooms on your chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x morifolium), summer care is important. Preventing drought stress, providing ample nutrients, shaping your plant, and eliminating pests, plus a few other easy tasks will ensure your plants are full of flowers in fall.

Mums are offered for sale in late summer and fall, already in bud, but growing mums beginning in spring brings the best return on investment. Often the mums sold in fall are only for seasonal decorative use. So learning to grow your own mums and care for them during every month is the ideal way to get huge autumn blooms.

July Mum Must-Do Tasks

Mums planted in spring should be well established by now and receiving ongoing care for pinching, fertilizing, watering, mulching, and controlling pests. These tips will see your mums through July and beyond.

1. Pinch Plants

(Image credit: firebrandphotography / Getty Images)

Pinching the growing tips on mums starts in spring when the plant is 6 inches (15 cm) tall. Pinch plants again when the newly formed side branches are 6 to 8 inches tall or every four to six weeks. Stop pruning mums by mid-July to allow buds to form. Pinching too late could delay flowering.

To pinch mums, just grasp the tip of each stem above a leaf node and pinch off half an inch to one inch (1.25-2.5 cm) of stems and leaves. Snippers or hand pruners work, too, for trimming. These Felco pruners are a favorite of our gardening experts.

Prune your mum into a rounded shape to keep it tight for fall. Pinching back the stems will force side shoots and keep the plant shorter and well branched for a compact shape with more stems for blooms.

2. Fertilize for Flowers

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

If you fertilize your mums in spring with a slow-release fertilizer, it should last through July. If the foliage looks lackluster now, you can apply a side-dressing of an organic fertilizer, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Some prefer a liquid fertilizer, such as 5-10-10 or 10-10-10, which can be applied monthly in July. Follow the label instructions for the correct amount, but you will either need to mix it with water before application or apply it around the root zone then thoroughly water it in.

There are different schools of thought on what fertilizer ratio to use, so establish your own regimen on what works for your plants. If the mums are getting long and lanky, however, they are receiving too much nitrogen fertilizer. Once the buds have formed, you should stop fertilizing.

3. Water Well

(Image credit: Viktor Sergeevich / Shutterstock)

Overwatering or underwatering can both sound the death knell for mums. Too much water promotes root rot and too little water results in drought stress. Water mums deeply, but wait till the top of the soil is dry to water again. Avoid wetting the leaves, which can promote fungal issues.

Consistency is key here. Keep the mums well hydrated throughout the summer to avoid drought stress, which can inhibit blooming. A simple drip irrigation system, like this one from Home Depot that Content Editor Laura uses in her garden, ensures plants get water at the base where they need it most.

4. Add Mulch

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Mulching is important to moderate the soil temperature during the peak of summer heat, which often occurs in July. Mulch also helps retain an even moisture level and controls weeds. If you neglected adding mulch in spring, do it now so the summer heat does not dry out the soil too quickly.

5. Keep an Eye on Pests

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Keep an eye out for pests on your mums as well as your other plants. If you water by hand, that is a good time to scout for intruders. Mums are commonly affected by aphids, which are oval-shaped, sap-feeding insects. Leaf miners are another common problem. They are tiny fly larvae that tunnel through leaves. Spider mites are the other top pest on mums. They are practically invisible, sap-feeding arachnids.

Aphids are large enough to see on the underside of leaves and new shoots, usually in groups, feeding on leaves. Damage includes stunted plants, distorted leaves, and honeydew, which is a sticky substance left on leaves. Control them with blasts of water, insecticidal soap, or neem oil, both of which you can get on Amazon. However, beneficial insects such as ladybugs and their larvae, often control aphids naturally without your intervention.

Leaf miners create noticeable winding tunnels through the leaves. They are difficult to control because they are inside the leaves. Remove the leaves as soon as you see the trails and discard them in the trash. Pick up any dropped leaves and discard in the trash.

Spider mite damage shows up as speckling on leaves from their feeding and fine webbing between stems, on flower buds, or on the undersides of leaves. To control spider mites use forceful sprays of water at regular intervals, insecticidal soap, neem oil, or a miticide. If the infestation is severe, remove the affected leaves and stems.

By following these tips, your mums should be compact, thick with healthy stems, and full of buds by late summer to fall, depending on the variety and your planting zone. Once your mums are in glorious bloom, pinch off the faded flowers and you will be rewarded with successive blooms.

Wasps have a habit of rebuilding where a colony already did well. Filling that eave or porch corner with strongly scented plants makes the address far less appealing, and the right picks hold that line into fall.

Take down a nest in July and the problem looks solved. The site itself doesn't change, though. It stays dry and sheltered, out of the wind, and that is the short list a queen scouts for come early spring. She isn't looking for the old paper. She's looking for the eave.

Hanging something in that space works better than leaving it open. Plants that repel wasps do double duty here. They take up the real estate and put a strong fragrance right where a scout would land. None of this amounts to a force field, and an established colony won't be bothered by any of it. Occupancy is the point. A queen looking for a vacancy shouldn't find one. What you're doing is changing the site from empty shelter to active, occupied space.

6 Plants To Hang Where a Wasp Nest Used To Be

Aroma does the work, so these should be within arm's reach — a pinch or a brush in passing releases far more oil than a plant sitting undisturbed. A coco coir-lined hanging basket from Amazon is a simple way to get them up at eave height, where air moves through the foliage and keeps the scent at the site rather than four feet below it.

1. Spearmint

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Mint plants get recommended for nearly every pest problem, which makes the suggestion easy to wave off. Spearmint (Mentha spicata) earns it here. Menthol content runs high enough that wasps tend to give it room, and the plant is hardy clear through USDA zones 3 to 11. It also spreads aggressively, so a basket is the practical way to keep it. Full sun to part shade, steady moisture, and a hard cutback whenever it turns scraggly is all it takes. Pinch a few stems every time you pass, though, as the fragrance fades within a day or so otherwise. You can find a 2-pack of spearmint plants from Lowe's.

2. Wormwood

(Image credit: Photos by R A Kearton / Getty Images)

Bitter is the whole point of wormwood (Artemisia absinthium). Chemical compounds absinthin and thujone sit in that silvery foliage, and very little chews on it or settles in near it. Hardy in zones 4 through 9, it wants full sun and soil that drains fast. Soggy roots will kill it quicker than winter will.

Water sparingly once it's established, then shear it in spring so it doesn't go woody and open in the middle. Keep it clear of tender neighbors, too. The roots leach compounds that can stunt what's planted alongside, so planting in a basket or container by itself is ideal. MARS Gardens on Etsy has 1-gallon wormwood 'Powis Castle' plants for sale.

3. Common Thyme

(Image credit: Robert Kneschke / Shutterstock)

Thymol turns up in a fair number of commercial repellents, which is reason enough to hang the herb it comes from. Common thyme (Thymus vulgaris) trails over a basket edge and takes zones 5 to 9 without much complaint. Full sun. Gritty soil, sparse water — it sulks in rich compost and rots outright in wet feet. Trim after flowering to stop the stems going bare and hard at the base, which is quick work with a sharp pair of bypass pruning shears from Home Depot. Skip that trim two years running and you're basically starting over.

4. Lemongrass

(Image credit: Muh. Nasyeh / Shutterstock)

Citronella has a branding problem. The plant sold under that name is a scented geranium with very little perfume to it, while the real source sits much closer to lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) — loaded with citral and citronellal, and pungent the moment a leaf gets bruised. Perennial only in zones 9 to 11, so north of that it's a summer container that comes indoors before frost. It prefers full sun, generous water, and a pot bigger than looks necessary. It grows fast enough to fill a basket by August. Overwintered inside, it looks rough by March, but it does recover. Get a lemongrass plant delivered straight to your door from Fast Growing Trees.

5. Silver Dollar Eucalyptus

(Image credit: Elena Rostunova / Shutterstock)

Florists hang eucalyptus in showers because steam drags the oil out of the leaves. A hot July eave does something close to the same thing. Eucalyptus cinerea holds in zones 8 through 11 and is usually grown as a container annual north of there, in full sun with soil kept on the dry side. Pinch the tips or it goes leggy in a hurry. Cut stems keep throwing scent for weeks after they dry, so a bundle tacked near the old site is a reasonable stopgap while a live plant fills in. Silver dollar eucalyptus plants are available from Etsy through Droke's Greenhouse, a certified nursery.

6. French Marigold

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Planted for color, and working for wasp control on the side, French marigolds (Tagetes patula) carry their pungency in the foliage rather than the flowers. Their scent is strongest in afternoon heat, right when scouting activity picks up. Marigolds are annual everywhere, though they'll self-sow in mild zones. You can pick up a 4-pack of marigolds from the Home Depot.

These want full sun, deadheading through summer, and less water than seems right. Overfed plants give more leaf and less aroma. Mounting height does matter — wall-mounted plant hanger brackets from Walmart put the basket up under the eave rather than well below it.

If you asked me to name the hardest-working flower in the summer garden, I wouldn't even have to think about it. It would be marigolds.

Sure, they're cheerful (it's impossible not to smile at those sunshine-yellow, fiery orange, and deep gold blooms), but marigolds are also one of those rare plants that seem to excel at just about everything. They're super easy to grow, shrug off blazing summer heat, keep blooming for months on end, and happily slot into vegetable patches, cottage gardens, containers, and borders without ever looking out of place.

Honestly, I probably associate marigolds just as much with early fall as I do with summer. While plenty of annuals begin to fade when the weather turns hot or the season starts winding down, marigolds simply keep going.

(Image credit: Orest lyzhechka / Shutterstock)

Marigolds also happen to be fantastic companion plants, attracting bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects while being widely believed by gardeners to help discourage certain garden pests – including squirrels. (Results may vary depending on your local squirrel population!)

Their resilience and long bloom season have made them a staple in American gardens for generations, too, and if their résumé ended there, I'd already be sold. But new research from the University of Georgia suggests these humble flowers have another remarkable talent hiding in plain sight... and it could change the way we think about them altogether.

Marigolds Have a Surprising Superpower, Scientists Say

Researchers at the University of Georgia recently discovered that a single marigold flower contains roughly the same amount of protein as a cup of quinoa, alongside antioxidants, dietary fiber, and essential minerals including calcium, potassium, and iron.

Even more intriguingly, proteins extracted from marigolds remained stable at high temperatures and showed properties that could make them useful in future food products, from baked goods to salad dressings.

(Image credit: Schnuddel / Getty Images)

Rather than encouraging everyone to start snacking on their flower beds, the researchers see marigolds as a promising sustainable ingredient for the future. Billions of dollars' worth of ornamental flowers are discarded every year, and finding new ways to use them could help reduce waste while meeting growing demand for plant-based protein.

"What excites me most about this research is that it challenges how we think about flowers," said Fidele Benimana, a doctoral student involved in the study. "Most people see marigolds as ornamental plants, but they also contain proteins with unique functional properties that could be useful in food formulation."

Which Marigolds Are Safe To Eat?

Only certain kinds of marigolds are safe to eat. The University of Georgia researchers studied Calendula officinalis, commonly known as pot marigold, an edible flower that's long been used in teas, soups, salads, and herbal remedies.

The petals have a slightly peppery, citrus-like flavor, while the stems and leaves tend to be much more bitter. The researchers also note that some Tagetes marigolds are edible, but not every ornamental variety is suitable for eating. Which brings me to another important point: if you're planning to grow edible flowers, don't use blooms from garden centers.

Why? Well, many ornamental plants may have been treated with pesticides or other chemicals that aren't intended for food crops. Instead, grow edible varieties yourself from seed or buy plants specifically sold for culinary use; we rate the Calexis Yellow Calendula Seeds from Burpee (or, if you prefer a flame-colored hue, the Calexis Orange Calendula Seeds).

Shop Edible Flower Seeds:

Burpee Calexis Yellow Calendula Seeds

Calendula marigolds make pretty border plants and they are safe to eat. We love this yellow variety!

Organo Republic 20 Edible Flower Seeds Variety Pack

From borage to chives, nasturtiums to sunflowers, thus bumper seed pack contains 20 different types of edible flowers.

Burpee Calexis Orange Calendula Seeds

This calendula marigold is almost too pretty to eat, isn't it? Thankfully, if you overcome that barrier, you can!

All that being said, even if marigolds never become the next big superfood, I don't think they'll be leaving my garden anytime soon. How many other flowers can brighten borders for months, thrive through the hottest days of summer, welcome pollinators into the garden, and be so easy to grow, right?

The idea that these familiar blooms could also one day contribute to more sustainable food systems is just an added bonus. If only because it's proven once and for all that you should never underestimate a humble favorite.

I love summer gardening… right up until the moment my plants start looking like they’ve had enough. And I can't really blame them; my garden is currently hotter than a frying pan and even my oldest and most faithful plants are finding it tough to put on a brave face... other than my favorite drought-tolerant blooms, that is.

Considering this is one of our hottest summers in decades, I doubt it's just me who finds that leaves drooping in the afternoon sun, flowers fading faster than you can deadhead them, and every trip outside becoming a mental calculation of which plants need water first. Because, when temperatures climb and dry spells stretch on, even the most carefully planned garden can start to look a little tired.

The solution? Other than leaning hard into rain harvesting, slow watering hacks, and mulching, of course? Choosing plants that are built for the conditions.

These 6 Drought-Tolerant Plants Stay Lush All Summer

Some flowers seem to come alive when the weather gets hot, positively thriving in spite of blazing sunshine and long dry periods without rain. And many of them bring an extra bonus, too: they’re beloved by bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.

That’s why I always have a soft spot for drought-tolerant blooms. They’re colorful, reliable, and wonderfully low-maintenance, a holy triumvirate which means I can spend less time worrying and more time enjoying my garden.

So, if your yard has started feeling less like a relaxing outdoor retreat and more like a frying pan every summer, these are the hardworking flowers I recommend planting. Good luck!

1. Salvia

(Image credit: Mariia Ostashuk / Getty Images)

If there’s one drought-tolerant bloom that seems designed for summer, it’s salvia. With tall spikes of vibrant blooms and a remarkable ability to handle heat and dry conditions, it has been quietly replacing lavender on the block as the hot new perennial that brings instant energy to borders, containers, and pollinator gardens.

One of my favorite things about salvia is that it looks delicate but behaves like a garden workhorse. Once established, many varieties can keep flowering through the hottest months, attracting bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds along the way.

There are hundreds of varieties to choose from, with blooms ranging from deep purple and blue to pink and red, making it easy to find one that suits your space.

Shop Salvia:

Nature Hills Nursery May Night Salvia

Minimal to zero deadheading required here, just plenty of purple flowers!

Nature Hills Nursery Bumbleberry Salvia

This bold salvia promises season-long color and happy bees in their droves.

Nature Hills Nursery Marcus Salvia

This compact dwarf cultivar proves size really does not matter when it comes to salvia.

2. Coneflower

(Image credit: Molly Shannon / Shutterstock)

Coneflowers are one of those plants that make a garden feel instantly happier. Their daisy-like blooms add cheerful color through the height of summer, but their real superpower is how little they ask in return.

Once established, coneflowers are impressively drought-tolerant, standing tall through hot weather while continuing to attract butterflies and bees. They also offer something for the garden beyond flowering season, as their seed heads can provide food for birds later in the year.

They’re proof that a tough plant doesn’t have to sacrifice beauty. As ever and always, I recommend the Magnus Purple Coneflower from Nature Hills for those who want drought-tolerant blooms that won’t droop in the heat.

3. Coreopsis

(Image credit: Niwes Suthamnatpong / Getty Images)

If you want a flower that keeps the color coming in obscenely hot weather, coreopsis (aka tickseed) is hard to beat. Its cheerful yellow, pink, or red blooms seem to appear nonstop throughout summer, creating a bright display even when conditions become challenging.

Coreopsis thrives in sunshine and handles dry spells well once established. It’s also wonderfully versatile, working just as happily in cottage gardens as it does in containers or along pathways.

For me, it’s one of those plants that quietly earns its place every year because it simply gets on with the job. Go for something like the PERMATHREAD™ Red Satin Coreopsis from Nature Hills if you want satiny red blooms, yellow fall foliage, and a perennial that pollinators instantly brand the hippest, most happening spot in the neighborhood.

4. Yarrow

(Image credit: Almacron / Shutterstock)

I have some degree of self-awareness, I assure you; I know that I write about the myriad benefits of yarrow more than is strictly necessary. And yet, while this drought-tolerant bloom might not always get the same attention as roses or hydrangeas, it deserves a place in more gardens.

With flat clusters of tiny flowers and delicate, fern-like foliage, it brings a softer, more natural look while still being incredibly tough. It can handle heat, drought, poor soil, and plenty of neglect – exactly the qualities you want when summer weather becomes unpredictable. It’s also a favorite among pollinators, adding even more life to your garden.

All hail yarrow, then! Especially when it looks as good as the Strawberry Seduction™ Yarrow from Nature Hills.

5. Sedum

(Image credit: Maria Evseyeva / Shutterstock)

Sedum is the drought-tolerant bloom I turn to when I want something that looks beautiful without needing constant attention. Its thick, water-storing leaves help it cope with dry conditions, while its clusters of tiny flowers provide late-season interest when many summer blooms are beginning to fade.

From low-growing ground covers to taller varieties that add structure to borders, there’s a sedum for almost every garden style. And as a bonus? Many varieties look fantastic even when they’re not flowering, thanks to their interesting foliage and architectural shape.

The Angelina Sedum Rupestre Plant from Burpee is widely considered one of the easiest plants to grow. Or, if you prefer something with a little more drama, go for the Steel the Show Sedum from Nature Hills; those pink blooms should see you through fall.

6. Blanket Flower

(Image credit: Iva Vagnerova / Shutterstock)

Bright, bold, and practically made for sunshine, blanket flower is exactly the kind of drought-tolerant bloom you want when your garden starts feeling the heat.

Its vibrant red, orange, and yellow blooms bring a burst of summer color, and it can continue flowering for months with the right conditions. It’s also remarkably tolerant of heat and drought, making it a favorite for gardeners who want maximum impact with minimal effort (aka me; I refuse to feel any shame over this).

The name itself feels fitting, as these cheerful flowers have a way of spreading across a garden like a colorful blanket. Something like the SpinTop® Orange Halo Blanket Flower from Nature Hills will bloom from spring til frost in Zones 5-9, in fact, making it a must-grow.

Shop Blanket Flowers Below:

Sow Right Seeds Blanket Flower Seeds

This variety produces beautiful red blossoms with yellow tips.

Clovers Garden Blanket Flower Arizona Sun Plants – Two

No time for seeds? Pick up some live blanket flowers instead!

Everwilde Farms Yellow Gaillardia Native Wildflower Seeds

A lesser known variety of blanket flower, these pretty yellow blooms look wonderful!

I guess all I really need to remind you is this: a heatwave shouldn’t have to mean a tired-looking garden. In fact, by choosing drought-tolerant blooms that naturally love sunshine and can cope with less water, you can create a garden that stays colorful, supports pollinators, and requires far less maintenance through the hottest months.

What could be better, quite frankly?

The challenge a boxy backyard brings is that its square shape makes the garden feel even smaller than it already is. But steal a few tricks from landscape designers and you can manipulate the space to your advantage, and transform it into a super-stylish yard that appears larger and less enclosed. The trick is to see a square garden plot not as a hindrance, but instead as an invitation to get creative.

To draw all eyes away from the boundaries, and make the space within feel more expansive, landscape designers use a number of clever techniques. Plenty are DIY projects you can do yourself to make a small garden feel bigger. One such trick is to separate the plot into multiple areas, each with a clear function, that segue together beautifully into a whole. A lot can be achieved by utilising vertical space for growing, too, which increases planting options as well as leading the eye up to make your garden feel less cramped. Add in some curves and a focal-point feature, and suddenly you have a garden to be proud of.

A few well-chosen contemporary small garden ideas is often all it needs to add the standout factor to your garden design. Here are all the garden design ideas you need to get the transformation underway.

1. Divide the Plot into Geometric Blocks

(Image credit: Clive Nichols/Getty Images)

If you have a small boxy backyard, you'll want to make the very best of the space by turning it into a stylish extension of your home. One of the easiest landscape designer tricks to tap into is reconfiguring the space using the 'rule of three' technique to carve up a square garden into separate yet harmonious areas.

This is a clever way of stretching a small garden and making it feel more spacious with clearly defined zoned areas, like this design (above). With separate spaces such as a patio for dining and a deck for lounging, plus a hidden destination point at the far end, this boxy backyard doesn't feel square any more.

Using planting such as evergreen boxwood cubes and ornamental grasses to create softly sculpted divisions between the spaces adds a high-end look, as does subtle uplighting.

2. Plant Immersive Boundaries to Distract from Dimensions

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

It might seem counter-intuitive to enclose a small boxy backyard with vertical planting taken to great heights, but green walls can in fact work to your advantage. Lushly planted boundaries help small gardens feel bigger by leading the eye upward to create an immersive feeling. And it needn't take forever, as there are plenty of fast-growing vines that won't scramble out of control.

Planting climbers also helps to blur the boundaries so you're not sure where the garden begins and ends. Covering solid features like walls and fences in foliage softens hard edges and tricks the eye, rather than immediately revealing the limitations of a small space.

Wrapping a garden in plants such as evergreen climbers takes the gray out of an urban space year-round, or add some standout color with a clematis. Another bonus is that this increases your privacy, especially helpful if your garden is overlooked by neighbors' windows. You can also used climbing plants to break up stretches of straight horizontal lines on the tops of fences and walls.

Climbing Plants for Boundaries

Showy White Blooms

Climbing Hydrangea

This self-clinging climbing hydrangea is covered with fragrant white lacecap blooms. It thrives in Zones 4-10, and grows 30-40 feet tall.

Entices Hummingbirds

Cup and Saucer Vine

Perennial in Zones 9-11, this climbing vine is festooned with pretty 2 inch bells that change from creamy pale-green to striking blue-purple.

Pollinator Magnet

Blue Moon Wisteria Vine

Reblooms up to three times a year which means you get extended purple-blue fragrant blooms. It thrives in Zones 3-9, and grows 25 feet tall.

3. Create an Eye-Catching Centerpoint

(Image credit: Westbury/Getty Images)

Creating a standout garden feature in the center of a square garden distracts from the restricted dimensions. Adding a focal point is a great way to make a small boxy backyard feel bigger, as your eyes will be pulled away from the edges into the center.

A circular feature integrated into a square shape immediately stands out. This eye-catching design features a firepit sunk into a round deck, surrounded by wraparound planting.

Other ideas for a centerpoint include an elegant DIY water fountain, or there are plenty of water features you can install yourself, or a piece of sculpture. Adding a circular lawn in the center of a square garden will also transform the feel of the space. A circular design feature breaks away from the boundaries, helping your garden feel more intentional and aesthetically pleasing. Circles blur harsh boundary edges and pull together the space in a gently cohesive way.

4. Add a Dazzling Accent Plant

(Image credit: ABARONS / Shutterstock)

Another way to draw attention away from the outer boundaries is to add an accent plant that landscape designers love. As far as small backyard ideas go, this is such a quick and easy win but will have a huge impact. An ornamental multi-stem tree such as 'Little Gem' magnolia, available from Nature Hills, is perfect for small yards as it adapts well to being pruned to stay compact.

Cornus kousa 'Satomi', pictured above and available from Nature Hills, is another showstopper tree that commands attention but can be pruned to stay in shape.

5. Design a ZigZag Path that Tricks the Eye

(Image credit: Neil Hepworth/RHS)

Another way to disguise a square-shaped garden is to add a feature that forces your gaze to change direction, as this distracts from the standard boxy outline dictated by the boundaries.

It's time to forget boring straight lines and draw the eye with something clever. Setting paths at changing angles so they zigzag or have a dog leg makes a garden feel both wider and more interesting, as well as being a design feature in its own right.

This elevated decking pathway zigzags between landscaping elements such as a pond, carefully positioned boulders and decorative border planting, which combine to distract the focus from the limitations of the space and reinvigorate a small boxy backyard.

6. Banish 90° Angles For a Softer Look

(Image credit: Clive Nichols/Getty Images)

Sometimes the smallest details can make a big difference when you're working out how to improve a garden. Obtuse angles like the one in the raised bed above create and optical illusion: because the line is longer than if a 90° angle had been used, the feature appears bigger. In an urban garden that has lots of hard landscaping, this is particularly effective trick.

A design like this also feels so much more relaxed than one that relies on sharp corners. Take a look at your small boxy backyard and it's likely that you'll spot myriad 90° angles. Banish them, and you'll make much more of the space.

7. Use Asymmetric Focal Points to Your Advantage

(Image credit: Qin Ningzhen/Getty Images)

Asymmetrical garden design is a real asset if you need fresh ideas to make more of a small boxy backyard. This informal technique simply involves repeating one focal element around the garden, but staggering their position so the two sides are asymmetrical.

The aim is to deliberately create an imbalance that makes a garden layout more interesting, such as alternating trees along a path rather than placing them directly opposite each other, as would be the case in symmetrical garden design. In this design, small clipped evergreen trees are staggered along the path instead of opposite each other. The planting in the beds on either side of the path are similar but aren't an exact mirror of each other, either, a further example of how asymmetric planting can make a small garden more interesting.

In a small yard, this can be as easy as strategically placed pots, creatively planted with standout container ideas.

Asymmetric planting schemes tend to feel less predictable, another way of offering a visual distraction from less than ideal garden dimensions.

8. Interrupt Sight Lines

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Designers use 'sight lines' to direct the gaze through a garden. A sight line is simply where most people might look when viewing a garden, the visual path from a starting point such as a patio. If the sight line in your garden takes you directly to the back boundary, then creating a longer, more meandering journey will make the space look far bigger.

It's easy to achieve by strategically placing an element that interrupts the sightline, and partially blocks the view. Your eye stops at this destination point, pauses, then looks past it, so the visual path is far longer. In the garden above, graceful ornamental grass Miscanthus sinensis intentionally interrupts the sight line.

The tall ornamental grass also prevents us from seeing what's immediately behind it, offering the possibility that the space may continue beyond what is immediately apparent, and there's more to the garden than is first perceived.

Tall Ornamental Grasses

Adored by designers

Karl Foerster Calamagrostis

This feather reed grass greens up quickly and blooms in early summer, with graceful, feathery plumes almost all season and into winter. Grows to 5 feet.

Shivers in a breeze

Japanese Silver Grass

The cream and green striped blades of Miscanthus sinensis 'Variegatus' add year-round color and movement to the landscape. Grows to 6 feet.

Standout plumes

Pampas Grass

This dramatic 8-10 foot tall Cortaderia selloana has silvery white plumes from late summer to early fall that are perfect for statement landscapes.

9. Move Borders Away From Boundaries

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

The temptation with a square garden is to push the planting out to the edges of the plot in the hope that an expanse of lawn in the middle will make the space look bigger. But all narrow fence-side borders do is draw attention to the boundaries and emphasize the plot's square shape.

Instead, it's a good idea to shape deep flowerbeds that flow away from a boundary, such as the semi-circular bed in the garden above. This not only brings a more immersive – and professional – feel, but allows you to appreciate the planting from all angles.

Now get more insight on garden shape design to make sure you get the most out of your square garden.

It's a chore many of us have to do, whether we delay it or we love making our yard look pristine with mowed lines in the grass. I'm personally not the biggest fan of mowing my lawn and tend to put off the task in comparison to other work I need to do in the yard – so if you're like this, you're not alone!

But thinking about this had me wondering, how often does a person truly need to mow their lawn for it to look good and be healthy? Is it something that varies based on area, climate, or season?

I decided to ask an assortment of lawn care and landscaping pros about it so you will know exactly how often to mow your lawn. In fact, you may actually be cutting the grass too much! Here's what the pros have to say.

How Often Should You Mow Your Lawn?

In an ideal world, there would be a simple answer to this question, but everyone's lawn is different. However, the answer the pros gave me is still an easy enough piece of advice to follow.

Gene Caballero, co-founder of GreenPal and long-time landscaper, explained to me that the frequency a person mows their lawn should follow the growth rate of their grass, which tends to be impacted by changing seasons.

He said, "The correct mowing schedule depends on the actual growth rate and not on the calendar. For instance during the peak season, homeowners often mow about once a week. Then in the slower season, some may need to shift to every two weeks."

This is good advice to follow. Though, if you know your grass tends to grow more slowly, consider altering your weekly mow to every other week instead. Also, modify how high you cut the grass depending on the season.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What Does Mowing Too Much or Too Little Do?

If you mow your lawn too much when it's already short, you're more likely to have dry grass that develops yellow patches in the warm weather.

Don Chouinard, a former contractor and lawn care expert, as well as a leader at Irrigreen explains, "Frequent short mowing encourages shallow roots. The grass keeps its energy near the surface instead of pushing roots down, and shallow-rooted turf dries out fast in heat and recovers poorly from drought."

A lawn that is constantly being cut also requires more care and water and can grow more slowly, because it needs to use up all its energy resources to heal from the constant chopping.

If you mow your lawn too little you're also more likely to cause damage to the grass – and your lawn mower. Long grass being suddenly pulled out of the ground is a shock to the lawn, and it may result in blades being tugged out by the root instead of cleanly chopped.

(Image credit: Alamy)Common Signs It's Time to Mow

Investing in a measuring stick, like this grass gauge from Amazon, tells you how tall your grass is. Knowing that is a simple way to know when it's time to mow. You can try to eyeball it and just look at the grass itself. But a tool like this provides a specific measurement, which is a better accountability partner to encourage you to mow when needed.

Brian Feldman of TruGreen also recommends following what's known as the "one-third rule," which he defines this way, "Your mowing frequency should guide you to cut no more than one-third of the grass blade in a single session."

This will ensure that your summer lawn won't be damaged by a large cut. If your lawn is already on the shorter side, you'll be able to gauge more quickly if there's even a third of the lawn's blades that need mowing.

If you're hosting lots of barbecues and making the most out of the sunny weather in your area, it's important to remember that the weight of garden furniture and increased foot traffic can impact your lawn as well. The grass in high-traffic areas might not grow in the same way as in areas of your yard that are more left alone, making it harder to know when or where to mow.

You can remedy this by hosting in different parts of your yard, aerating your lawn, or considering installing a foot path that leads to areas you often visit so the grass won't be repeatedly walked on.

Shop Lawn Mowing Essentials

Uptthow Grass Gauge

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