Organic Gardening News

The Fiskars SmartFit Steel Bypass Pruner P68 is a classic, lightweight model of one-handed pruning shears, designed to perform a wide range of pruning tasks toward the easier-going end of the pruning spectrum.

These shears can delicately prune soft plants, remove dead flower heads, cut woody shrub branches, and – with a bit of effort – cut relatively thin tree branches. Do bear in mind that the P68 has a maximum cutting width of 5/8", which will limit your options when it comes to pruning trees.

One of the key reasons to choose this pruner, rather than another pair of bypass pruning shears, is affordability. The P68 costs far less than high-performing alternative models such as the Felco No. 6 pruners, which we also reviewed here.

Despite their reasonable price, Fiskars pruners have some great design features that earned the brand a place on the list of the best pruners experts recommend. The blades on this particular pair of Fiskars pruners are made with hardened steel – ideal for long-term performance with minimal upkeep required. Meanwhile, the handles are made with a combination of durable, lightweight aluminum and soft-surfaced plastic, ensuring easy, comfortable usage.

We assessed this pruner by using it to perform a variety of pruning tasks around the yard. In keeping with the tool’s advertised capabilities, our test activities included deadheading, cutting soft plant stems, and pruning slender tree branches.

The UK equivalent to the P68 is the Fiskars Solid Bypass Pruner P121. The two models are similar in most respects, although UK readers should note that the P121 does not feature the "SmartFit" lever used to adjust the width of handle opening on the P68. A Fiskars P121 is shown in the testing photographs.

Overview

Finnish brand Fiskars is one of the biggest-names in affordable cutting tools for the home and garden. Founded in 1649, the company has a remarkably long history of designing and making useful, accessible products – especially scissors and shears.

The SmartFit Bypass Pruner P68 continues Fiskars’ fine tradition, offering a great combination of effective design and economical manufacture. A good pair of bypass shears is one of the 3 types of pruners every gardener should have and these are a good beginner model.

It’s usually possible to get hold of a Fiskars P68 for less than $20, from big box retailers such as Lowe's and Walmart. Readers in the UK who are seeking a similar option that’s available in their region can turn to the Fiskars Solid Bypass Pruner P121 on Amazon, for example..

(Image credit: Future)Key Specs

Type

Bypass pruner

Cutting capacity

5/8″

Blade material

Hardened steel

Handedness

Left or right

Accessories

N/A

Performance

The Fiskars P68 is designed for all-purpose pruning, from delicate tasks like deadheading to cutting relatively thin tree branches and twigs. So, our reviewer tested the shears by using them to perform a variety of tasks around the yard.

We started with the relatively tough task of cutting tree branches. The P68 proved capable of doing this type of work, although we had to put in a little more effort than was necessary when doing similar tasks with higher-spec bypass pruners. Nonetheless, the P68 cut a variety of tree branches effectively.

(Image credit: Pete Wise)

The P68 also proved capable of carrying out lighter pruning work, such as deadheading and cutting the stems of tender plants. We were satisfied with the clean, hygienic cuts the P68 made across the stems.

All things considered, the P68 is by no means the right pruner for every pruning task. However, this tool is a good option to cover most of the bases, from precision plant pruning to light tree pruning tasks.

This is an affordable model of pruner and you will usually get what you pay for, when it comes to product quality. The P68 won’t last you a lifetime, but based on our hands-on testing, these shears could indeed give you effective pruning in the short-to-medium term.

Should You Buy?

Attribute

Notes

Rating

Price & availability

Unbeatable, budget-friendly price.

5/5

Design

An effective design with comfy ergonomic handles.

4/5

Performance

Reasonably good performance across tree and plant pruning tasks.

3/5

Buy It If...

Value for money is a factor.

The Fiskars P68 gives you decent pruning capabilities, at a far lower price than some premium alternatives.

You have small tree branches to prune.

These bypass shears are very good at cutting relatively thin tree branches (although they may struggle with thicker ones).

There’s a lot of pruning to do.

Lightweight and easy on the hand, the P68 is a convenient option for users who have lots of pruning to do around the yard.

Don't Buy It If...

Long-term use is your priority.

While the blades of the P68 are hardened for long-lasting sharpness, the overall build quality of the tool means you might be using these shears for years, but probably not decades.

You have thick tree branches to cut.

Any branches over one-inch thick are an unsuitable match for the P68. For wide branches, consider a higher-capacity pruner instead.

Traditional style matters to you.

This pruner has a smart, modern aesthetic which will appeal to many users. However, it’s a world away from the style of a traditional pair of secateurs.

(Image credit: Pete Wise)How Does It Compare?

While we would gladly recommend the Fiskars P68 to users who value affordability and versatility, some other readers will be better served with an alternative model.

FELCO F6 Pruning Shears

The Felco 6 Bypass Pruner is similar to the P68. However, the Felco pruners give you better cutting performance, and far greater longevity thanks to their build quality and ease of maintenance. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the cult-favorite Felco pruners cost about four times as much as the Fiskars P68.

Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears

If you're looking for a pruner that's even more affordable, these shears from Fiskars are a crowd-pleasing favorite. At just $12, you really can't get more budget-friendly. They are also steel and can cut up to 5/8" like the P68, but they don't have the ergonomic adjustable handles.

Greenworks Greenworks 24v 6" Mini Chainsaw Cordless

If you have lots of thick tree branches to prune, then we’d suggest looking at an entirely different type of pruner – not just a different model. For example, the Greenworks 24V 6" Brushless Pruning Saw is our top-rated solution specifically for branch-cutting.

How We Tested

Our reviewer tested the Fiskars SmartFit Steel Bypass Pruner P68 by using it to prune various plants around the yard. He tested the shears on a wide range of plants, from marigolds with juicy stems to half-inch-thick crabapple tree branches.

“Here comes the sun,” goes the classic Beatles song. “Here comes the sun, and I say, ‘It’s all right.’” But some 60 years later, the summer sun is not always a sign of hope, and it can cause issues in the garden.

I just got back to San Francisco after some months in France. April and May were a delight but late June and early July brought a heat wave – with the highest temperatures ever recorded in the country (think 107 degrees F).

These temperatures killed off some of my favorite garden shrubs and made me rethink what to plant in the future. Let’s take stock of some traditional garden plants that struggle (or give up the ghost) in extreme heat as well as some great, heat-tolerant replacements.

1. Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

I have never seen my hydrangeas looking better than they did in April and May. I have three bigleafs, (Hydrangea macrophylla) two mopheads and one lacecap variety. They were stunning in spring, totally covered with the huge flowers, and even the leaves were starting to look baked.

Hydrangeas generally prefer morning sun and afternoon shade, so I have all of my plants planted where they don’t get much direct afternoon sun, but that did not save them. After one week of 100-plus temperatures, the pink and blue flowers had turned brown or green and when I left, they were beginning to drop.

Plant instead: Pentas (Pentas lanceolata)

(Image credit: Getty Images/Future)

We’ve found the perfect, heat-proof alternative. Pentas love intense sunshine and thrive in high heat. That’s why they are so popular in Florida. And they look a bit like hydrangeas with their blossom clusters. Their star-shaped flowers are a target for hummingbirds and butterflies.

Pentas "Star Bright Mix" 3 Pack

2. Peonies (Paeonia spp.)

(Image credit: Phil Carpenter / 500px / Getty Images)

With large, fragrant, long-flowering blooms, peonies are one of those shrubs that grace many a garden. These classic flowers need a site with mucho sunshine - at least 6 hours a day! But that doesn’t mean they will thrive in heatwaves.

The type of intense, direct hot sunshine we saw this summer does not make a peony happy. I saw my peony leaves scorch in two days, and the third day, the gorgeous petals began to fade and wilt. It’s enough to make a grown gardener weep!

Plant instead: Heat Tolerant Roses (Rosa spp.)

(Image credit: Knock Out Roses)

Most rose plants need some direct sun, but only a few, heat-tolerant roses survive temperatures of 100 degrees F for more than a few minutes. The ones that do share these traits: thick, leathery foliage; lots and lots of petals; and their own roots rather than grafted roots.

We recommend "Belinda’s Dream," said to be the top pick for the Deep South. Its huge pink flowers are intensely fragrant and don’t blink in 100-degree weather. "Julia Child" comes in next, with its continuous clusters of buttery yellow, licorice-scented blooms, even when summer heat hits news highs. Roses in the "Knock Out" family are also amazingly heat resistant. heat, their blooms may temporarily shrink or fade.

Julia Child Rose

3. Astilbe (Astilbe spp.)

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Many of us have astilbes in the garden since they are known to be one of the easiest perennial flowers to grow. Their flowers are unusual as well, plume-like blooms in soft shades of white, pink, purple, and red. They rise above the airy foliage on stiff stocks. I can tell you from personal knowledge that these are extremely low maintenance additions to the shade garden, requiring only moisture and damp, loamy soil.

All these positive features are negatives as the summer temperatures rise. As summers turn hotter and drier, the feathery foliage actually burns - look for brown, crispy edges on the leaves - and wilting, browning blossoms. The plants just can’t uptake water fast enough to keep its flowers looking good.

Plant instead: Russian Sage (Salvia yangii)

(Image credit: Anmbph / Getty Images)

With its soft but dramatic spikes of lavender flowers lasting for up to four months, Russian sage offers the same type of unusual eye candy to the garden that makes astilbe stand out. But as summers swelter, Russian sage just keeps getting prettier while astilbe just cooks. Don’t even think of planting this salvia in shade! It will cause the stems to become weak, lax, and prone to flopping.

Better Versions® Crazyblue Russian Sage Plant

4. Bleeding Heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis)

(Image credit: Sodel Vladyslav / Shutterstock)

Old-fashioned bleeding heart is both stunning and darling, with its unique, dangling heart-shaped flowers and finely divided foliage. It just makes you happy to see it in the garden - and that’s why it is so popular with gardeners.

But a bleeding heart plant needs shade - partial to full - and also moist soil. They work well in woodland settings and require consistent moisture and full protection from hot afternoon sun. Obviously, sizzling summer temperatures will not do any favors for these favorites. They won’t survive anything hotter than 75 degrees F.

Plant instead: Foamy Bells (Heucherella spp.)

(Image credit: Alamy)

Heucherella is a plant that does double duty. It displays fabulous foliage as well as darling little blossoms. Known as foamy bells, this perennial is a hybrid of Heuchera (coral bells) and Tiarella (foamflower), carrying the best traits of both. Like Heuchera, the leaves come in a wild variety of colors, sometimes streaked with intricate veining. Like its other parent foamflower, Heucherella grows tall stems with delicate frothy flowers on tall stems that dance in a gentle breeze.

Plant Heucherella foamy bells in filtered, dappled shade. Once installed, they tolerate heat and humidity, thriving in southern regions. If you choose Heucherella (foamy bells) varieties with Heuchera villosa parentage - like Heucherella ‘Sweet Tea’ - your plants have superior heat and humidity tolerance.

Proven Winners "Hopscotch" Foamy Bells Plant

5. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)

(Image credit: Xxposure / Shutterstock)

Lily of the valley is a woodland flowering plant , known for its pure white, bell-shaped pendant flowers and unforgettable perfume. It is often used as a shade-loving ground cover since it has a dense root system that will eventually crowd out weeds and create a lush carpet of green.

These plants do not do well in hot, dry areas. Harsh sun and high heat dry out their shallow root systems and kill the plants.

Plant instead: Creeping Lilyturf (Liriope spicata)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

For hotter, drier summers, replace lily of the valley with hardy, heat-tolerant ground cover creeping lilyturf. These plants create a dense mat with long, grass-like leaves and pale violet or off-white flowers on short rachis. It suppresses weeds like lilies of the valley but survives intense heat waves while staying green.

Variegated Liriope Plant

6. Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

(Image credit: Gyro / Getty Images)

Cosmos are native to Mexico, which means that they generally like warm weather and direct sun. This extremely popular showy annual can grow to 2-4 feet (1m) tall on erect stems, carrying saucer-shaped, daisy-like flowers with red, pink or white petals and yellow centers. They bloom constantly from early summer to frost.

However, cosmos plants suffer in hot and humid summer climates. The flowers simply stop opening and the lovely colors fade. As temperatures climb, the plants can even wilt.

Plant instead: Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Looking for a flower that will thrive in soaring temperatures and dry soil? Look at the purple coneflowers. These North American natives also grow large, daisy-like petals with prominent, spiky center cones. But they are hardy perennials that have evolved to grow in extreme temperatures and lean, dry soil.

Cheyenne Spirit Echinacea

Lavender is one of the classic sun-loving, drought-tolerant plants from the south of France and Italy, so it’s easy to think that it’s tough enough to take whatever summer extremes come your way. But this iconic beauty with its vibrant purple blooms and aromatic foliage needs some help to make it through the season. July can bring sweltering heatwaves and intense bouts of sunshine that can wilt many a perennial. So a little midsummer TLC is key to sustaining those vibrant hues and potent oils.

Just because lavender originates on sun-baked Mediterranean hillsides, that doesn’t mean it thrives on neglect. While established plants are drought tolerant, some midsummer lavender care can make all the difference to its vitality and longevity. If you leave your lavender to its own devices during a hot July, you risk accelerating its transition into seed production, which shuts down the flowering cycle early. Worse, improper care now can trigger root rot or stunt growth, leading to that leggy look every grower dreads.

Fortunately, keeping your lavender in peak health is easy. By dedicating less than an hour this week to these 5 simple checks, you will promote a lasting splash of purple vigor and vitality throughout the season, guaranteeing a garden filled with humming pollinators and intoxicating scent all summer long.

How to Help Your Lavender in July

It’s finally July and time to reach for the sunscreen! As the month begins, your garden is thriving, and hopefully you’ll be seeing flowers everywhere. However, the scorching sunshine and limited rain will soon take its toll, wilting blooms and baking leaves. Certain perennials do very well in hot sun, and lavender is actually one of them. But these timely lavender care tasks will help you to get even more from your blooms, both in terms of flowering windows and aromatic potency.

How you approach midsummer care will depend on the type of lavender you are growing and your local climate. The three main lavenders are English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia, such as Hidcote or Munstead), French or Spanish lavender (L. stoechas), and the robust hybrid Lavandins (L. x intermedia, like Grosso). These respond slightly differently to the midsummer elements. English lavenders are cold-hardy (USDA zones 5-8) but can struggle with excessive humidity, while Spanish types thrive in warmer hardiness zones (7-10) but have a shorter individual lifespan and a different blooming rhythm that peaks earlier.

(Image credit: RGBStudio / Alamy)

Whether you’re growing your lavender in the ground or in containers presents its own challenges. Ground-based lavender benefits from an expansive, deep root system that can search for subterranean moisture, making it resilient against all but the most severe droughts. In contrast, container lavender lives in an artificial microclimate. The limited soil volume inside a pot will heat up rapidly under the July sun, drying out within hours and running the risk of baking the delicate root network.

Take a few minutes to check your soil’s existing condition. Investing in a multi-purpose soil diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-In-1 Meter, available from Amazon, is an excellent way to eliminate the guesswork, allowing you to check root-zone moisture and also light levels. If need be, amend with a little coarse sand or perlite to ensure the site is well draining before starting on these tasks.

1. Water Deeply but Infrequently

(Image credit: Iiievgeniy / Getty Images)

Lavender is not a plant that needs a lot of water. In fact, keeping lavender’s soil wet is a sure way to kill the shrub. But that doesn’t mean that lavender has no need for water. While lavender is very drought tolerant, every plant needs some moisture, and that need comes to the fore in summer. The question is not whether to water lavender in summer, but how to do it.

In July, water your lavender deeply, once a week. Prioritize depth over frequency. When you give a plant a frequent, shallow sprinkle of water, you encourage its root system to stay near the surface of the soil, where it remains vulnerable to being scorched by the afternoon heat. Watering deeply gets water to the bottom of the plant’s roots, around 24 inches (60cm) below the soil surface.

By applying a slow, deliberate drench directly at the base of the plant once a week, you encourage the roots to plunge deeply into the ground, reinforcing the plant’s natural drought defenses. This is especially true for heavy-blooming English varieties like Munstead, which require a reliable touch of moisture to sustain their heavy flower flushes without dropping their lower leaves.

Use a targeted delivery system like the Teknor Apex Zero-G Lightweight Vinyl Hose from Walmart to deliver a gentle stream at the soil line. For containerized lavenders, check them every 2-3 days using a moisture probe. When the top couple of inches (2cm) of compost feel dry, drench until water leaks from the drainage holes.

2. Move Containers into Full Sun

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Lavender loves full sun, so July is a perfect time to check the positioning of all potted plants. Just because your container was in full sun back in May, that doesn’t mean it is still getting adequate light in July. As trees leaf out and neighboring perennials reach maximum height, a potted lavender can easily get thrown into partial shade.

If your plant doesn’t get 6-8 hours of unobstructed sunlight daily, its essential oil production plunges, stems grow weak and floppy, and soil stays damp for longer. Avoid tucked-away corners, north-facing shadows of walls, or dense groupings beneath patio umbrellas. And where you see potted lavender sulking in the shade, this is your time to take action and move it somewhere with more direct sunshine.

At the same time, check the soil in the container. Be sure that it is sandy or gravelly so that it drains well. If you find that the soil is clay, repot the plant and mix gravel or sand to allow the water to drain away from the roots. If your container plants are struggling with dense, compacted soil, add a little Miracle-Gro Potting Mix, available from Home Depot, along with some coarse grit or sand for the perfect porous base.

3. Avoid Pruning Lavender in July

(Image credit: Nieriss / Shutterstock)

Lavender plant care involves both actions you need to take and actions you must avoid. You probably pruned your lavender plant in spring to clean it up after winter. Another pruning is needed – but the timing is important. You need to prune lavender for the second time after the plant has stopped blooming, and that time is not July.

Pruning stimulates aggressive new, tender green growth. In the middle of July, these young shoots will be scorched by the intense sun, draining the plant's core energy reserves and leaving it susceptible to winter dieback. So resist any structural pruning until late August or early September, once the final flowering cycle has concluded.

However, you can (and should) deadhead spent lavender blooms through July. Remove faded flower spikes down to the first set of clean leaves, just above where new buds are forming. This channels plant energy into a second summer flush of color. To do this cleanly without crushing stems, use a razor-sharp tool like team favorite Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, available from Amazon.

4. Monitor for Pests and Diseases

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Lavender has grown happily on sun-baked Mediterranean hillsides for thousands of years. The general idea in France is: plant it in direct sun, give it top drainage, and leave it be. But you need to watch out for two different threats in midsummer. The first (and worst) is a plant disease known as root rot. It results from wet soil and can kill the plant.

If your plant seems to be turning brown or yellow, dig in the soil and look at the roots. If they are black or mushy, pull out and toss the plant. In July, root rot is likely caused by overwatering, which means you can avoid this problem if you water your plant appropriately and check air flow. Where plants are healthy, drenching the surrounding soil with a little Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide from Walmart can help suppress the fungal spores and protect adjacent healthy tissue.

Pests are the second threat, though less serious. Keep a look-out for aphids, whiteflies, and spittlebugs. Wash them off with the hose, or apply an insecticidal soap. Avoid harsh chemical pesticides that wipe out bees and butterflies. Instead, opt for a gentle blast of water from the hose, or use a pre-mixed, pollinator-safe soap, like Bonide Ready-to-Use Insect Soap from Amazon.

5. Add Mulch to Keep Down Weeds

(Image credit: Iryna Yakovets / Getty Images)

Usually, you mulch plants to help hold moisture in the soil. This is not the case with lavender, which does best in dry, well-drained conditions. Traditional mulches, such as shredded hardwood or bark chips, are not a good idea. These trap moisture and form a cool, damp layer over the soil surface, inducing wood rot and fungal blight.

That said, you do still need to add a layer of mulch beneath your lavender. The idea is to keep down weeds and prevent the soil from getting too hot. But the best mulch for lavender is mineral based. A two-inch (5cm) layer of clean pea gravel, washed river stone, or crushed white quartzite helps to reflect heat, bouncing the intense July sunlight back up into the lower canopy of the shrub.

This extra light exposure directly stimulates the oil glands within the foliage, resulting in a noticeably more fragrant growing space. Furthermore, these stones dry out instantly after a summer storm, keeping the crown dry. For a quick and efficient lavender mulch, buy light-colored Fantian Pea Pebbles from Amazon and distribute them precisely around the base.

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At Hastings Park, the newly completed Freedom Mobile Arch is giving Vancouver a new kind of cultural landmark: a covered outdoor venue designed for concerts, festivals and public gatherings of up to 10,000 people.

Completed in June, and host to the city’s FIFA Fan Festival, the amphitheatre is defined by a sweeping mass-timber roof that shelters audiences while preserving the feeling of being outdoors. It’s a civic room that frames the sky and North Shore mountains.

For Venelin Kokalov of Revery Architecture, who designed this building, the finished venue closely reflects their original vision, but with one important difference: the atmosphere can now be felt.

“On drawings, it’s a structure. In reality, it becomes a feeling. What I’m most happy about is that it still feels open. You’re covered, but you never lose the sky, the air, the mountains. That was the original idea, and standing here now, you can feel it working,” he says.

Raised roof beams

The amphitheatre’s defining gesture is its roof: a starburst mass-timber canopy spanning 105 metres, arcs rising 25 metres high. Comprising 60 arches arranged in six vaulted segments, it has the drama of a landmark, with the softness of a natural material.

For Kokalov, the design begins with the visitor’s emotional experience, not only with form.

“The main design inspiration for the new (amphitheatre) was people’s well-being and the human experience. Our creative process always begins with people — how they perceive, feel, and interact with a space,” he says.

That ambition gives the venue its aspirational quality. It is not only a place to sit, listen and watch. It is a place to gather under a structure that feels protective and open.

An open-air landmark

The beauty of the amphitheatre depends on a complex structural idea that appears effortless. For Robert Jackson, partner at Fast + Epp, the structural engineers on this project, precision was required across the full team.

“The roof was incredibly complex and required a high level of precision and immense co-ordination across every discipline. From the early design phase through to the suppliers, fabricators, and the on-site construction team, everyone had to be fully aligned to achieve what we’ve done here,” he says.

The roof is a hybrid system, with steel carrying the heavy lifting in the valley arches and timber taking on the secondary structure. Jackson says the lesson was knowing when to use each material.

“It’s about putting the right material in the right place, not defaulting to one system for the whole roof,” he says.

Warmth and connection

More than 2,000 cubic metres of mass timber were used in the landmark roof. The venue is 100 per cent electric, powered by renewable hydroelectric energy, and is targeting Zero Carbon Building certification through the Canada Green Building Council.

For Jackson, mass timber supported both the project’s environmental goals and long-span needs.

“Mass timber was the right choice for this project for several reasons. It supported the client’s sustainability goals as a renewable material that stores carbon throughout the life of the building. Structurally, it has excellent compression capacity and performs well in long-span applications, making it ideal for a roof of this scale,” says Jackson.

Kokalov points to the feeling of the material overhead:

“From an experiential perspective, the natural, exposed wooden arches not only evoke a sense of wonder with the unprecedented scale of their profiles, but radiate a warm and comforting finish to the roof’s underside.”

A civic stage for the world

Accessibility, acoustics and landscape are all part of the design. The venue is targeting Rick Hansen Accessibility Foundation Gold, and its roof, walls and sound system have been shaped to improve the concert experience while reducing noise impacts on neighbours. Indigenous artists from the local nations have been integrated into the project, with local Indigenous languages also being incorporated into signage and place names.

Now, as Vancouver has welcomed the world, the amphitheatre has served as a gathering place.

For Jackson, that global debut carries a wider message.

“It has been extremely rewarding to see the success of the venue in hosting the FIFA Fan Festival. We hope this project sets a precedent for future projects to also explore the possibilities of this approach,” says Jackson.

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There’s just something undeniably charming and romantic about a wood trellis full of roses or jasmine. It can instantly add a bit of atmosphere to a garden wall, turn a bare fence into an enchanting privacy screen, and give vertical gardening all the height and structure it needs to do its best work.

In a smaller outdoor space, trellises in particular are one of the most powerful tools you can have. You can train climbing roses up a frame that seriously draws the eye upwards, as well as making a courtyard feel larger and even creating a habitat for pollinators or nesting birds. A wall covered in fragrant jasmine or flowering clematis is a completely different garden to one without.

But the real truth about wooded trellis is that it just doesn’t last. The softwood versions you find in most garden centers at a budget-friendly price often need replacing every 3 to 5 years, as they can rot, crack, swell when they get wet, and eventually become more of a liability than a supporting act in your garden.

If you’ve ever had a climbing plant that you spent years training come crashing down around you due to a wooden trellis that just gave up, you’ll understand the appeal to a more permanent solution. So, what is that solution?

The 7 Best Metal Trellises to Buy Right Now

Forget wooden trellis; the new trend is metal. Because, yes, powder-coated iron and steel trellises have really gone up in popularity due to the fact that they look just as pretty, support heavier climbing plants like roses and wisteria (without the structural drama), and will stay standing for decades with little to no maintenance.

Whether you prefer a more modern panel, a cottage-style arch or an ornate Victorian design, there’s a metal trellis for you. And the best part? Most of them are available online these days and can be delivered straight to your door.

If you want more information before you start your shopping, check out our pick of the beautiful trellises that turn climbing plants into garden stars.

1. Amagabeli Garden Trellis

This is truly the workhorse trellis for gardeners who want the best coverage but at a reasonable price. It has a 4-panel pack, meaning you can line a full fence section, create a garden screening arrangement, or put them in raised bed corners for a beautiful, structured look.

These are made from thick welded iron wire with a rust-resistant black powder coat, and they’re built to withstand the weight of super heavy climbers like rose or clematis without bending.

Amagabeli Garden Trellis 4 Pack 72”x21”

This metal trellis has two rotatable pot supports that are built into each panel, meaning it’s quite useful for mixed planting.

You can put a clematis in a pot at the base and train a climbing rose up the top half for a really luxurious, layered effect. It’s best suited to cottage gardens, raised beds, and any fence or wall that needs a real proper covering rather than a simple decorative accent.

2. H Potter Trellis

(Image credit: Shugsfishing / Getty Images)

If you want something that looks like it belongs in a walled kitchen garden on a country estate, but still prove durable than wooden trellis, this is the option for you.

Weighing in at 60 pounds, H Potter's scrollwork iron trellis is a really substantial piece of garden architecture. The charcoal brown powder coat with its hand-rubbed faux finish gives it an antique, weathered quality that looks so romantic behind climbing roses, clematis, or honeysuckle.

H Potter Garden Trellis - 72" Tall

This trellis looks best in traditional cottage gardens, (or anywhere you want a statement piece that you don’t want to have to replace year after year).

It's beautiful enough to stand alone as garden art through winter when plants are dormant, and serious enough to support heavy perennial vines for years to come.

Cover yours in this non-invasive flowering vine that keeps homes cool and hummingbirds happy all summer long, we say!

3. Macteyia Wire Lattice Grid

The Macteyia wire grid is clean, modern, and super versatile, making it the go-to when you want a garden where the plants take center stage rather than the structure behind them. As such, it is an ideal backdrop for large-flowered clematis, jasmine, or sweet peas.

Macteyia Wire Lattice Grid Panel

The open lattice of this trellis's design gives climbers plenty of anchor points without adding visual weight.

At almost six feet tall, it's a proper garden screening tool. You can use two panels side by side to create a privacy divider on a patio, or line them along a fence for a fast but fancy-looking vertical garden look.

The integrated ground spikes can be anchored directly into your soil, and the panels disassemble for easy storage during the colder months. It’s best for contemporary and minimalist garden styles, patios, and container gardening setups where a chic backdrop is needed.

4. SCENDOR Cupid Arrow Design

(Image credit: magicflute002 / Getty Images)

The SCENDOR Cupid Arrow trellis is the perfect sweet spot between decorative and functional. The ornate arched top gives it enough personality to work as a garden focal point on its own, while the open lattice body gives climbing roses, wisteria, jasmine, and morning glories plenty to work with.

SCENDOR Scendor Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants, 70" H X 21.7" W Heavy Duty Metal Trellis, 6ft Rustproof Black Iron Vine Support Trellis With 9.2" Ground Stakes, Decorative Cupid Arrow Design Roses, Vines

This trellis is stable enough for vigorous climbers, and the powder-coated black iron is properly weatherproof rather than just being paint over wire.

Forget wooden trellis; this one works especially well in pairs of two, flanking a garden gate, framing a seating area, or creating a bit of symmetry along a path.

It looks lovely in romantic, cottage, and traditional gardens, or as a structured focal point in a mixed flower border.

5. Amagabeli 4 Pack Garden Trellis 46" x 15"

(Image credit: Warren Payne / Shutterstock)

At a little less than 4 feet tall, the Amagebeli is the trellis for containers, raised beds, and smaller spaces where a full-height panel would be way too much.

AMAGABELI GARDEN & HOME 4 Pack Garden Trellis for Climbing Plants

The decorative bird and leaf design makes these nice as a standalone garden feature, while the 15-inch width fits neatly into a planting pot or along the edge of a raised bed without taking up a huge amount of space.

Buying a pack of four means you have options; you could create a square support for a climbing rose in a large container, line the corners of a raised bed, or create a low divider along a patio edge.

These wooden trellis alternatives are best for container gardening, balconies, smaller gardens, and for anyone who wants a decorative trellis that also works as a plant support.

6. SCENDOR Black Metal Trellis

This SCENDOR trellis is compact, budget-friendly and well-made, making it a logical pick for gardeners who are looking for a reliable trellis without breaking the piggy bank.

At 45 inches tall, it strikes a perfect balance between a full-height panel and a small pot support. This means it’s useful for smaller climbers like clematis varieties, sweet peas, or even training young climbing roses in their first season.

SCENDOR 2 Pack Black Metal Trellis for Climbing Plants

This trellis can be used freestanding in a bed, leaned up against a fence, or inserted into a large container.

This wooden trellis alternative is not at all flimsy, which you would assume at this price, and the integrated ground spikes push directly into soil without any tools.

It works best for beginners, balconies, first-season climbers, and anyone who wants a solid entry-level metal trellis for a good price.

7. Pure Garden Trellis

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This Pure Garden trellis is a solid option for gardeners who want a versatile, everyday trellis that works well in flower borders, against a fence or in a large container.

It’s a classic design with an arched top and open lattice and is suitable for clematis, climbing roses, jasmine, sweet peas, or a run of cucumbers on the deck.

Pure Garden 63-Inch Garden Trellis

The powder-coated steel trellis is weatherproof and stakes directly into the ground with no assembly required.

While it doesn’t have the architectural presence of the H Potter or Amagabeli options, at this price point it's a reliable, attractive choice for a first trellis or a supplementary panel in a larger scheme.

Climbing Plants to Pair With Your New Trellis

Wekiva Foliage Clematis Fleuri

This is one of the most beautiful yet reliable clematis varieties to grow. The velvety, violet-purple flowers reach 4 to 6 inches across and cover the plant from middle to late summer.

It’s really hardy in zones 4-8, it climbs about 10 to 12 feet and works beautifully through any of the trellises above. Note: Keep the roots shaded and cool while the flowering stems reach up towards the sun.

CitronellaKing 2 Star Jasmine Plants in 3.5” Cubes

This is a go-to, super fragrant evergreen climber that works wonderfully on a metal trellis or a wall. The glossy dark green foliage is there year-round and produces lovely clusters of scented star-shaped white flowers from late spring through summer.

It’s hardy in zones 7-11, and reaches 10-20 feet when it’s mature. Star-jasmine will cover your trellis with dense, lush growth that looks sleek in every season. The best part is that it’s drought-tolerant and easy to maintain once established.

David Austin Gertrude Jekyll®

This is the climbing rose that gardeners keep returning to again and again and for good reason. The large, super fragrant, deep pink rosettes have exceptional disease resistance and repeatedly flower from summer all the way into autumn.

These would pair beautifully with any of the H Potter scrollwork trellises or the Amagabeli panels, and works especially well trained horizontally along the bottom wires for to get the most flower blooms.

Should You Bother Treating Wooden Trellis?

If you already have a wooden trellis that is sentimental for you, there is a way to extend its life. Paint or treat it once a year with an exterior wood preservative. Look for products that have copper or zinc naphthenate, which penetrate the wood rather than just coating the surface. Do this in dry weather and allow it to cure fully before training any new growth over it. A good-quality pressure-treated softwood trellis can last 8 to 10 years rather than the usual 3 to 5 if you maintain it properly.

That said, every year you spend maintaining a wooden trellis is a year you're not spending in the rest of the garden. Metal doesn't rot, doesn't warp, doesn't need painting, and will still be standing long after the plants growing on it have come and gone several times over.

If you're starting fresh, spend the money once on something that lasts. Trust me when I say you’re future self will be thanking you.

The right lemon tree care in July will have a big impact on the flavor and juiciness of your harvest. These long, hot summer days encourage your lemon tree to produce rapid fruit growth and lush foliage, but they also stress the plant. Too little water, excessive heat, and inadequate nutrients are all risks at this time of year and can affect the quality of your citrus harvest.

Lemon trees are actively investing energy in developing fruit in July. Without appropriate and targeted midsummer lemon tree care, your fruits might stay small, have less flavor, or even drop early. With the right nurturing, though, your tree will remain lush, develop large, flavorful fruits, and even put out new green growth.

The good news is that looking after lemon trees in July doesn’t have to be dramatic or complicated. A few simple and easy tasks will keep your tree healthy through the hottest and potentially most stressful time of the year. These chores also ensure you will enjoy the juiciest harvest.

1. Water Deeply and Consistently

(Image credit: Getty Images)

July heat increases water needs for most plants, including lemon trees. There's no telling how long the current heatwave will last for, which means you might even experience drought conditions during July, making watering lemon trees well a critical step. Even established trees can be stressed by dry summer conditions, and too little water can lead to early fruit drop. Consistency is also important as letting the soil totally dry out before watering can cause split skin on fruits.

The best way to water your lemon tree in July is with regular, deep soaking. Instead of watering lightly daily, water deeply every few days or once a week, depending on weather conditions and rainfall. The exception is for potted plants, which often need daily, or even twice daily, watering, as the soil dries out very quickly. Young trees, both in the ground and in containers, also need extra water as their root systems aren't yet big enough to source enough moisture.

To give a lemon tree a good soaking, use a hose at the base of the tree and let it run for up to 20 minutes. For a tree in a container, water until it begins running out of the drainage hole at the planter base. If you’re ever unsure about whether or not this essential part of July lemon tree care is necessary, stick your finger in the soil: if it’s dry up to your second knuckle, it’s time to water.

2. Fertilize to Support Fruit Development

(Image credit: Cavan Images / Alamy)

July is an active growing period, and your trees are growing new foliage as well as developing fruits. All this growth requires a steady supply of nutrients, making fertilizing lemon trees another essential July gardening job. Nitrogen is a must for new leaves, while potassium and micronutrients support overall health and large, tasty fruits. Skipping this task can lead to yellowing leaves, stunted fruit, and poor-quality fruit.

You can make this task easy by looking for a citrus-specific fertilizer such as this from Amazon. This takes the guesswork out of choosing an appropriate nutrient balance. Overfeeding can be as bad as underfeeding, so follow the product instructions and don’t give more than is recommended, especially if you're growing your lemon tree in a container. Always water thoroughly after applying a fertilizer.

If your weather conditions are severely hot and dry, delay fertilizing. Feeding a tree during these conditions can stress it even more. Focus on water only during these times and feed once the conditions normalize.

3. Prune Lightly But Strategically

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Midsummer is not a time for heavy pruning, but light pruning of suckers and water sprouts is essential for directing the tree’s energy into fruit production. Suckers are new shoots that grow straight up from the ground near the trunk, while water sprouts are those that grow upwards from branches. Both take energy away from the fruits and also reduce airflow around leaves and branches, so add your lemon tree to the list of plants to prune in July.

This task is easy with the right tool. Use sharp, clean pruning shears such as these from Amazon to snip each of these little sprouts at its base. Check for new growth every couple of weeks and prune off whatever you find. You can also remove any dead or damaged growth in July. Generally, avoid pruning heavily in the canopy, as the fruits need shade from the foliage.

4. Watch Out For Summer Pests

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Hot summer weather encourages many pests to accumulate, especially in trees stressed by high temperatures or dry conditions. Catching pest infestations early makes them much easier to manage, so when it comes to what to do with lemon trees in July, checking regularly is a must. Inspect new leaves, the undersides of leaves, fruits, stems, and joints in branches. Common lemon tree pests include aphids, scale, spider mites, and citrus leaf miners.

You'll often see the signs of pests before you see the pesky critters themselves. Typical warning signs include:

• A sticky residue called honeydew, which can attract ants
• Fine webbing
• Tiny bumps on stems
• Black sooty mold
• Curled leaves with silvery trails

(Image credit: Future)

If you catch them early enough, pests can often be managed with a strong blast of water from the hose to knock them off. On a smaller tree, scale insects can simply be wiped off. If necessary, move to neem oil such as this from Amazon, or insecticidal soap like this from Amazon, or remove heavily infested branches and leaves. If you continue to have issues, contact your local extension office for guidance.

5. Support Heavy Fruit and Harvest When Ready

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Exactly when your lemons ripen and become ready to harvest depends on your growing zone and seasonal weather. In warmer areas, your fruits might be ready to pick in July. In other areas, the fruits are probably getting heavy and might need some support to prevent broken branches.

If some branches look particularly heavy or are bending, use a sturdy post fixed in the ground or a soft tie attached to a stronger branch to provide support. You can also remove any damaged or split fruit.

Determine readiness for harvesting lemons by guidelines for your growing area, past experience, and current signs. Ripe lemons have full color, are slightly soft to the touch, and feel heavy for their size. Harvest lemons by snipping them off rather than pulling to avoid damaging the branch.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

Lemon tree care in July is all about helping it cope with the stresses of heat and drought while also supporting developing fruit. Watering deeply, feeding appropriately, trimming lightly, supporting fruit and controlling pests will all help keep your tree healthy, productive, and provide you with tasty, fully developed fruit. These steps aren’t difficult and don’t take a lot of time, but they generate big rewards.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When your neighbors installed saplings along the property line, they were about your height and looked lovely in spring when the new leaves appeared. Now, years later, the saplings have turned into tall, mature trees with full canopies that cast long shadows over your landscape. Your patio is dark and your lawn and garden are in shade.

What’s a neighbor to do with this shade tree problem? You’ll need to act carefully in order not to get in trouble with the law or with Miss Manners. No worries, I’ll help you evaluate your options.

I worked as an attorney before I became a plant-loving writer, so all of my neighbors tend to bring me their issues and ask for advice. One of the most common neighborhood problems involves trees in one yard shading out plants and backyards across the fence. Here's what you can and can't do if a neighbor's tree is blocking all the light in your yard.

What You Can Do

The first thing I say in response is to share the bad news: in the United States, property law generally does not recognize a right to receive light, air, or a scenic view over a neighbor’s property. That means that your neighbor can grow trees as tall or bulky as they like, even if it blocks the next door view or flower garden unless a law or agreement limits this.

Keep this general rule in mind when approaching the neighbor. A threatening attitude is never likely to bring about a good result. Here are four good garden etiquette options that can help, though.

1. Check local ordinances & HOA rules.

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American law generally doesn’t recognize one neighbor’s right to object to a neighbor’s shade tree. But there is no affirmative law giving one the right to grow tall trees along the property line. Given that, the general rule can be overruled by specific laws or ordinances addressing the issue.

So your first step in a tree dispute is to check out whether there are any such laws or ordinances. If you live in a community with an HOA, check the rules (termed CC&Rs) to see what it says about plants or trees in the yard. Alternatively, if you live in a city, ask at the mayor’s office or ask a local attorney if there are ordinances discussing it. Check for solar-access laws, for example.

In big cities, there are often laws preventing the installation of trees within a certain number of feet from the property boundary line. They sometimes allow one neighbor to compel restoration of a view that existed when they bought their property. If the neighbor is violating the CC&Rs or a city ordinance, you can bring it to your neighbor's attention or to the attention of the authorities.

2. Chat with your neighbor.

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Friends who have had success with this option have played their cards well. First, they invited the neighbor with trees hanging over their backyard into their landscape for a discussion, thereby allowing them to experience the shade themselves. Second, they offered to pay half for pruning the trees.

If you decide to roll this way, remember to be polite and friendly. You’re trying to negotiate an agreement between the two of you, do not yell and scream. That could backfire and make the issue worse.

3. Prune branches in your yard.

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In most states, you have the right to cut back a neighbor’s tree to the extent that it extends over the property line. You can trim a neighbor's overgrown shrubs if they're on your property, too. Use sharp, clean loppers like these ones from Fiskars to make the job easy.

However, you don’t have the right to step into their landscape, so stay on your own side. Nor are you allowed to cause damage to the tree. If you’d like to go this way, double check the property line. This can be tricky unless the border is marked by a fence or wall.

But don’t just think legal rights, consider your relationship with your neighbor as well. You will definitely want to talk to the neighbor first and ask if they would prefer to hire someone to do the trimming. It’s always a good idea to communicate your intentions to the owner before performing any tree work. You have a real interest in maintaining a good relationship with the people who live right next to you.

4. Document a spite fence complaint.

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Some states and local governments have laws against spite fences. These are fences built for purely malicious reasons – like to block the neighbor’s view or to shade their garden. If a fence found by the court to have been built out of spite with the intent to injure the neighbor’s enjoyment of their property, they can be ordered to remove it. That's why it's always good to consult your neighbor before building a fence, too.

Trees planted in a line along the property edge can constitute a spite fence and trigger the same protection. If your area has these laws, gather evidence of the neighbor’s malicious intent and the lack of any legitimate purpose. Obviously, this is not a good way to develop a happy relationship with a neighbor, so suing over this issue should be a last resort.

What Not to Do

No matter how annoyed you are by your neighbor, do not take the law into your own hands. These two options are absolute no-nos.

1. Cut down the tree.

(Image credit: Milamai / Getty Images)

You could (and probably would) be arrested for trespassing, vandalism, and destruction of property. Almost everyone these days surveys their yard with computer-linked cameras, so your chances of getting caught are high. Not worth it!

2. Poison the tree.

(Image credit: Mariana Serdynska / Shutterstock)

This is also a big, fat no for all the same reasons as above. If you get caught, you can be charged with vandalism and destruction of property. Even if you don’t get caught, your karma will be terrible going forward. So talk to your neighbors and figure out a solution that will make both of you happy and bring more light into your yard.

The finger test says everything is fine. Push into the top inch of soil and it comes back cool, damp, maybe clinging a bit. Yet the plant above it is drooping by the afternoon, leaf edges going crisp at the margins, and the obvious conclusion – that it needs a drink – leads to more water, which somehow makes it worse.

Wet soil and a thirsty plant are not a contradiction. Watering the garden well means getting moisture into the roots, and there are several ways that hand-off can break down even when the soil around them is holding plenty. Damaged roots can't pull it in. Compacted or water-repellent compost lets it slide right past. On a brutal afternoon, leaves can lose water faster than any root system could resupply.

3 Signs a Plant Is Thirsty in Damp Soil

Three signals tend to show up when a plant is dehydrated in damp soil. Any one on its own might mean something else, though together they make a fairly clear case.

1. Wilting That Doesn't Recover Overnight

(Image credit: Future - Amy Draiss)

Wilting through the hot part of the day is normal enough, and a plant that firms back up by evening is just riding out the heat. The trouble is the one still drooping the next morning, before the sun has done anything to it. Overnight is when a healthy plant catches up, refilling its tissue while transpiration slows to almost nothing. When it doesn't, the roots aren't delivering, and the soil moisture around them has nothing to do with it.

2. Crisp Leaf Margins on New Growth

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Brown, papery edges creeping in around the margins of leaves, particularly the newest growth, while the soil sits damp. Those margins are the last stop on the plant's plumbing, so when water gets scarce inside the plant they're the first tissue to be sacrificed. Whole-leaf yellowing usually points somewhere else – overwatering, or a nutrient problem. It's the dry rim on an otherwise green leaf that suggests the water simply isn't arriving.

3. Water That Runs Straight Through or Beads on Top

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Pour water on and watch what happens. Either it disappears in a couple of seconds, or it sits there beading on the surface and rolls off the side. Opposite behavior, same underlying problem. Compost that has gone completely dry can turn hydrophobic on you, the surface going waxy enough that moisture just sheds off it. Put that in a container and the water does something less obvious – it slips down the gap between the shrunken root ball and the pot wall, out the drainage hole, and you never see it touch a root. The soil seems wet, but the root ball inside it is bone dry.

Why It Happens

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Roots are the common thread. Anything that damages them – rot from a pot that stays saturated, a bad transplant, insects working underground – leaves the plant with less capacity to pull water in, even while it's sitting in it. Root rot is the ironic one, since it comes from too much water and produces symptoms that look exactly like too little.

Heat does something different. Past the mid-90s Fahrenheit (35C), transpiration through the leaves can outrun what the roots can supply no matter how healthy they are, and the plant wilts as a stopgap while the soil stays moist. Soil compaction plays its own part, squeezing out the air pockets roots need to function. If the top of the soil keeps reading damp while the plant argues otherwise, a long-probe moisture meter from Amazon settles it by reading down where the roots actually live.

How to Fix It

Water-repellent soil needs rewetting, not more water. For a container, set the whole pot in a basin of water and leave it for half an hour or so, until the surface goes dark and the bubbling stops – that's the root ball taking it back on. In beds, the same principle applies more slowly: several light passes spaced fifteen minutes apart, letting each one soften the surface for the next. Something like Scotts EveryDrop wetting agent from Home Depot breaks the surface tension and helps water move in instead of running off.

Root problems are less forgiving. Slide a struggling potted plant out and look – healthy roots are pale and firm, while rotted roots ones go brown, soft, and smell sour. Trim off what's dead, repot into fresh mix, and cut back a portion of the top growth so there's less foliage for the reduced root system to support. For heat-stressed plants with roots that are fine, the answer isn't at the roots at all. Shade through the afternoon does more than any amount of watering.

Watering Better Through the Summer

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A few habits make the whole problem less likely. The best time to water is early, while the soil is cool and what goes down has time to move into the root zone before the day pulls it back out. Go deep rather than often, since a long slow soak reaches roots that a daily sprinkle never will, and this soaker hose from Walmart delivers it at ground level without wetting the foliage. Mulch on top slows evaporation and keeps the surface from baking into a crust.

Check before watering rather than on a schedule, and check deeper than a fingertip reaches. Two inches (5cm) down tells you more than the surface ever does. Container plants in July might need water twice a day while the bed beside them wants a soak once a week – same weather, entirely different situations. When in doubt during a heat wave, look at the plant in the morning rather than the afternoon, since that is when it tells the truth.

Every summer – and I really do mean every single summer now – I notice the same thing happening in my garden. The plants that looked unstoppable in May? They suddenly start looking tired by July, with flowers fading, foliage drooping and everything seeming to slow down just when I want my borders to be bursting with color.

As hotter summers become the norm across much of the world (US absolutely included), I find myself idly dreaming about which flowering perennials will take one look at a 95°F forecast and think, 'Finally!' My time to shine!'

Basically, I want plants that like heat and full sun. I want vibrant blooms, buzzing pollinators and weeks (sometimes months) of color, even when I'm dripping with sweat and find myself subsisting entirely on ice creams.

Flowering Perennials That Like It Hot

For those who want flowering perennials that like it hot, the secret is choosing those plants that have evolved to thrive in sunshine, dry conditions and soaring temperatures (aka deep roots, silvery foliage or naturally drought-tolerant habits) as this will help them stay fresh long after more delicate plants have thrown in the towel.

So, if your borders tend to lose their sparkle once the weather warms up, these are the flowering perennials I'd plant every single time.

1. Blanket Flower

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If you want a plant that looks like sunshine bottled into a flower, blanket flower is hard to beat. Cheerful red, orange and golden-yellow blooms appear from early summer right through fall, often carrying on long after other perennials have called it quits.

Native to North America, it's happiest basking in full sun and copes brilliantly with heat and dry soil. Butterflies adore it, bees can't get enough of it and you'll love how little effort it asks for in return. If you want to go super bold, the SpinTop™ Red Blanket Gaillardia from Nature Hills blooms nonstop until the first frost.

2. Coneflower

(Image credit: Molly Shannon / Shutterstock)

Coneflowers are one of those plants I recommend again and again because they simply never let me down. Their bold daisy-like flowers bloom for weeks on end, bringing vibrant color while turning your borders into a magnet for bees and butterflies.

Once established, they're wonderfully drought tolerant, making them one of the easiest ways to keep a garden looking lush through the hottest part of summer. Why not swerve the usual purple in favor of the Sunseekers™ Rainbow Coneflower from Nature Hills? You'll end up with orange, pink, rose, and yellow blooms all on one plant!

3. Black-Eyed Susan

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Few flowers capture the feeling of high summer quite like black-eyed Susan. Their golden petals seem to glow in the sunshine, and with regular deadheading they'll keep blooming for weeks.

This tough native perennial shrugs off heat, humidity and less-than-perfect soil, making it one of the most dependable flowers you can grow. The Prairie Glow Black - Eyed Susan from Nature Hills offers a vibrant bi-colored twist to the usual uniform yellow.

4. Russian Sage

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No surprises here, but if you want flowering perennials that will thrive in 95°F climes, Russian sage was well and truly made for heatwaves. Silvery foliage shimmers in bright sunshine while airy lavender-blue flower spikes seem to float above the border, creating movement and softness even on the hottest days.

It's also one of the stars of water-wise gardens, thriving where many thirstier plants struggle. If you're short on room, opt for a compact variety like the stunning Blue Jean Baby Russian Sage from Nature Hills.

5. Catmint

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Look, don't underestimate catmint. It might be easygoing, but it's also one of the hardest-working perennials in the garden... especially if things are feeling hot, hot, hot. Give it a quick trim after its first flush of flowers and it'll often reward you with another spectacular display.

Bees absolutely love it, while deer and rabbits usually leave it alone – that's what I call a win-win. Personally, I will always choose Cat's Pajamas Catmint for the name alone.

6. Tickseed

(Image credit: Ali Majdfar / Getty Images)

Tickseed is the sort of flowering perennial that seems determined to keep flowering whatever summer throws its way. Its cheerful blooms can brighten borders for months, bringing a light, airy feel that's perfect for prairie-style planting or cottage gardens.

Once established, it's impressively drought tolerant and asks for very little beyond the occasional deadhead. The Big Bang™ Cosmic Eye Coreopsis from Nature Hills is a great way to make a splash in your garden.

7. Lantana

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If you've ever visited a Southern garden in midsummer, chances are you've seen lantana stealing the show. While other flowers wilt in scorching temperatures, lantana just keeps pumping out vibrant clusters of orange, pink, yellow and red blooms.

Butterflies flock to it, it positively thrives in hot sunshine and, in warmer USDA zones, comes back year after year with very little fuss. You can grab some Clovers Garden Lantana Camara Flowers from Amazon easily enough.

Bonus: Rattlesnake Master

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If your style leans a little more naturalistic, rattlesnake master deserves a spot on your planting list. Its distinctive globe-shaped flowers and sword-like foliage bring architectural drama to sunny borders, while its prairie roots mean it positively thrives in blazing heat and dry conditions.

It isn't as brightly colored as some of the other flowering perennials on this list, sure, but it's one of the very best plants for attracting bees, butterflies and beneficial insects (and it pairs beautifully with coneflowers, blanket flowers and black-eyed Susans in a heat-loving prairie-style planting, so what's not to love?).

Build A Rattlesnake Master Planting Scheme:

Clovers Garden Purple Coneflower

Purple coneflowers are an obvious choice for hot weather planting, but they are a beautifully reliable (or a reliably beautiful) one, too!

CZ Grain Rattlesnake Master Plug Plant

Working well in containers or beds, this prairie favorite has been making waves in the UK as gardeners look for more drought-tolerant plants.

Clovers Garden Black Eyed Susan

You can add an instant pop of color to any prairie planting scheme with a slew of Black-Eyed Susans.

Clovers Garden Black Eyed Susan

You can add an instant pop of color to any prairie planting scheme with a slew of Black-Eyed Susans.

These plants might be built for the heat, but I’m not quite there yet. You’ll find me indoors, fan on full blast, cold drink in hand, and quietly wishing I had the same summer survival skills as the flowers in this list.

Are there any flowers that ask nothing of you but give you so much in return? Let me introduce you to the unicorn of the garden world: zinnias. Bright, cheerful, drought-tolerant, and apparently immune to the kind of neglect that kills lesser plants. Zinnias cope just fine in this heatwave weather, too.

But the best news? Zinnias are among the fast-growing, heat-loving blooms that you can still start from seed in July.

No wonder, then, that Zinnias are seriously having a moment right now. A recent Instagram video from Brianne Martin capturing their riotous summer color is a great reminder of exactly why. In the caption, she wrote, "They're one of the easiest cut flowers to grow – and once you plant them, you'll probably grow them every year."

Why Everyone Is Growing Zinnias Right Now

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This extreme heatwave weather we're experiencing this summer is probably the number one reason why zinnias are having a moment right now. And as forecasts predict the hot weather looks set to continue all summer, we are all turning away from thirsty hydrangeas and astilbe to choose tough, heat-tolerant flowers that practically grow themselves.

Joe DeFrancesco from Farmer Joe’s Gardens, whose family has farmed in Connecticut for four generations and who grows zinnias commercially, puts it plainly: "Zinnias are having a moment because they deliver maximum impact with minimum fuss." His farm grows several varieties – State Fair Mix, Thumbelina, and Cut and Come Again – and he calls them "probably the most reliable summer annual we offer."

Megan Proska, Associate Vice President of Horticulture and Collections at the Dallas Arboretum, where zinnias are trialled every year in one of the most rigorous plant testing programmes in the country, agrees. "Zinnias continue to stand out as a summer annual because they're fast-growing, heat-loving, and bloom continuously with minimal care. They thrive in full sun, tolerate Texas heat extremely well, and perform beautifully in landscape beds, in containers, and cut flower gardens."

And with over 200 varieties, there really is the right zinnia for every garden, whatever zone you're in.

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There's also the pollinator angle, which is driving part of their popularity as people become more considerate about planting to help their local wildlife. Shelby Lucero of Growing Spaces, who grows zinnias both inside greenhouses and outdoors, has noticed something interesting about colour preference. "Butterflies are most attracted to red, pink, and orange zinnia colours – these colours appear to glow to butterflies. Purple varieties attract bees more effectively because this colour signals a high pollen source to them."

Hummingbirds and hummingbird moths are fans too, which is the kind of garden wildlife list that makes you want to go and plant some immediately.

And while pollinators love zinnias, deer hate them. "Almost all of our outdoor flowers get decimated by the local deer population," Lucero says, "but deer don't touch the zinnias." If you've ever watched a deer methodically destroy an entire border, you'll understand why this is practically a selling point on its own.

Because they're annuals, completing their life cycle in less than one year, zinnias are extremely quick to grow, too, with some varieties speeding from seed to flower in as few as 60 days.

And did I mention that zinnias make great cut flowers?

How to Grow Zinnias Well

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It's super-easy to grow zinnias, even if you're a beginner gardener. Proska's advice is straightforward: "Sow zinnias in warm soil with plenty of airflow, water at the base of the plant, and deadhead regularly to encourage flowering. Succession sowing every few weeks also helps extend the display."

DeFrancesco adds that their drought resistance, once established, is genuinely impressive. "They actually prefer lean soil and can handle neglect better than most flowers." Which is basically the dream!

For cut flowers specifically, he recommends planting tall varieties like State Fair Mix and pinching out the first blooms to encourage bushier growth. Lucero's cutting technique is precise: "Determine the desired stem length and cut them at an angle with sharp shears just above a set of leaves." These Fiskars Pruning scissors on Amazonare just the job.

Common Zinnia Mistakes To Avoid

(Image credit: Vladimir Dokovski / Shutterstock)

Both overwatering and over-fertilizing are all too easy if you're growing zinnias in a bed among other more demanding flowering plants. "The biggest mistake new gardeners make is overwatering – zinnias hate wet feet and will develop powdery mildew," says DeFrancesco. Proska flags the same issue from another angle: watering the foliage rather than the base is a fast route to powdery mildew later in the season.

Giving zinnias room to breathe rather than growing plants too closely together is another good way to avoid powdery mildew, as good airflow is the best defence. If you live in a humid zone where powdery mildew is more common, then there's an even easier solution. Profusion zinnias have been bred to have strong resistance to this problem. They're self-cleaning, too, which means they don’t need deadheading, as new blooms continuously replace old ones. Eden Brothers sell a good number of Profusion zinnias including 'Profusion Apricot',, Profusion Red-Yellow Bicolor', 'Profusion Double Fire' and 'Profusion Double Hot Cherry'.

On fertilizer, Lucero is direct: "Zinnias do best in poor soil conditions. Excess nitrogen will result in more foliage growth, but fewer blooms." Less really is more here.

The Best Zinnia Varieties to Grow Now

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Proska's recommendations come with serious credentials – all of the following have won an Arboretum Approved or Flameproof award in the Dallas Arboretum's trial programme, and seeds of many are available from Eden Brothers: Zydeco Series, Profusion Series, Zesty Series, Benary's Giant, Magellan Series and Zahara. Lucero's favorites, all available from Botanical Interests, are Cactus Flower Blend, Cut and Come Again and California Giants.

My personal favorite is Benary’s Giant Wine, with tall, fully double blooms in a deep magenta. Seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

Can't decide? Sow this Zinnia Crazy Blend from Amazon, with 12 different varieties.

Pick one, sow somewhere sunny, keep seeds and young seedlings watered until the plants are grown roots deep enough to find moisture for themselves, and your zinnias will do the rest.

Summer in the garden is all about flowers. If you plan your beds and containers right, you should have a profusion of color through July and August. Many of these summer beauties need deadheading to continue producing blooms. Snipping off spent flowers signals to the plant to put energy into making more.

If you feel like your entire summer revolves around deadheading in order to keep the flowers coming, there’s good news. Some flowers bloom all summer without deadheading. They either simply keep producing in spite of spent blooms or are so-called self-cleaning plants that naturally shed their flowers.

I’ve curated a list here of my favorite no-fuss summer flowers that provide non-stop color without the chore of deadheading.

Tips for Keeping Your Flowers Blooming Longer

Choosing plants that bloom continuously is only the first step to getting summer-long flowers. Even these reliable summer producers can struggle without the right care. Here’s how to ensure they keep blooming and stay healthy:

• Water your bedding flowers deeply and less frequently to encourage stronger, healthier roots.
• Potted plants need to be watered more often, even every day, when it’s not raining, as they dry out quickly.
• Use a bloom-boosting fertilizer to ensure plants have the nutrients they need to keep flowering.
• Most repeat-blooming flowers need full sun to perform optimally. This means at least six hours of direct sunlight per day.
• Use mulch around flowers to keep weeds at bay, regulate soil temperature, and keep more moisture in the soil.

Bloom-Boosting Essentials

Scotts Super Bloom Water-Soluble Plant Food

Keep the flowers coming with this high-phosphorus plant feed that helps plants bloom. Feed every 1–2 weeks for best results.

East Urban Home Self-Watering Rattan-Style Hanging Baskets

This attractive pair of hanging baskets features self-watering inserts. Not only does this cut down on watering, but it keeps plants moist so they can keep blooming.

Back to the Roots Organic Expanding Coconut Husk Mulch

This expanding mulch helps lock moisture and nutrients in the soil while keeping down weeds – so plants can focus on flowering rather than surviving.

Flowers That Bloom All Summer With No Deadheading

With the right flowers and these pro tips, you can expect an abundance of blooms all summer with minimal effort and no more deadheading.

1. Lantana

(Image credit: Fernando Trabanco Fotografía / Getty Images)

Lantana is a tough plant that flowers all summer and thrives even in very hot weather and in poor, dry soil. You can pick up a set of two mixed-color lantana live plants from Walmart to fill your garden with color this summer. The attractive clusters of small flowers are multi-colored, draw in pollinators, and naturally fade as new blooms appear.

Lantana can be an issue in some areas where it is invasive. Its toughness is what helps it outcompete native plants. If you live in cooler climates, use lantana as an annual. In areas where it will survive winter, grow it in containers.

2. Summer Snapdragon

(Image credit: Hanna Yohanna / Shutterstock)

Summer snapdragon – aka angelonia – is a perennial in zones 9 through 11 and an annual in cooler climates. It produces fresh spikes of colorful flowers all summer without the chore of deadheading. I love the blue-purple varieties, like this Angelface Blue Summer Snapdragon from Plant Addicts.

Angelonia thrives in the heat of July and August and won’t let you down even when conditions get tough for other plants.

These flowers are great for beds, borders, and containers. They need soil that drains very well and full sun. They won’t need frequent watering, but you should fertilize monthly to keep the flowers going.

3. Supertunias

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Petunias have long been popular summer annuals with their large, trumpet-shaped flowers that come in a wide range of colors. Traditional petunias need deadheading to keep flowering, but the newer Supertunia varieties are self-cleaning. They’ll drop their spent flowers and keep producing more without your help.

Walmart stocks a good color range, including this four-pack of vivid watermelon-hued Proven Winners Pink Supertunia Vista Paradise.

Supertunias have a trailing habit, so they are great for borders, edges, containers, and hanging baskets. They need full sun and well-drained soil to thrive. Use a bloom-boosting fertilizer every couple of weeks for the best results.

4. Madagascar Periwinkle

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Also known as annual vinca, this type of vinca is hardy only in very warm climates and is an annual in most gardens. It thrives in summer weather and continuously produces new flowers as old ones fade, so there’s no need to deadhead them.

Pick up a glorious multicolor vinca hanging basket from Lowe's.

Madagascar periwinkle is very heat and drought-tolerant and grows well along borders and in containers in full sun and well-drained soil. Unlike some repeat bloomers, this type of vinca doesn’t need a lot of feeding to keep producing.

5. Million Bells

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Million bells, or calibrachoa, is yet another annual in cool climates that doesn’t require deadheading. It is naturally self-cleaning, producing hundreds of small, trumpet-shaped flowers all summer. Million bells look especially nice in containers, including hanging baskets and window boxes, as their trailing stems spill over the sides.

Plant Addicts stocks a fantastic collection of calibrachoa plants, but I have a soft spot for this Pink Lemonade variety.

Provide million bells plants with full sun and soil that drains well but stays moist with regular watering. Because they bloom so heavily, you will need to feed these plants with a bloom-specific product all summer.

6. Wax Begonias

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

This classic and perennially popular flower is a staple for shade gardening. An annual in most climates, wax begonia has characteristic waxy leaves and small bright flowers that persist all summer. Pick up a three-color mix from Walmart. The blooms are self-cleaning, naturally dropping as new flowers form.

You can grow wax begonias in beds or containers as long as they don’t get too much sun. Partial shade is ideal, but they’ll also grow in full shade. Use moist, rich soil that drains well and feed monthly to keep the flowers coming.

7. Impatiens

(Image credit: Ekakusuma / Shutterstock)

Impatiens is the other classic shade annual. Like begonias, they readily drop their spent blooms, and new ones will quickly take their place. Also like begonias, impatiens grow best in moist, rich soil and partial or even full shade. Plant Addicts stocks a lovely range of Impatiens.

For the best results from your impatiens, make sure the soil never totally dries out and feed the plants at least every three weeks with a flower-focused fertilizer. In addition to standard impatiens, look for New Guinea impatiens, which are larger plants with bigger leaves and flowers. They’ll also tolerate more sun.

8. Sweet Alyssum

(Image credit: Nature's Clicks / Shutterstock)

Sweet alyssum blooms in summer in a carpet of tiny flowers, often white but also pink or purple. Traditional varieties stop flowering in July, but new, sterile hybrids keep going and don’t need deadheading. They put all their energy into their sweet-scented flowers. Grow sweet alyssum along edges of beds and as the “spiller” element in mixed containers.

Sweet alyssum grows best in full sun or partial shade and doesn’t require rich soil. It flowers best when watered consistently. Examples of sterile varieties for ongoing flowers include ‘Snow Princess,’ ‘White Knight,’ available as a four-pack from Lowe's, and ‘Blushing Princess.’

While visiting an outstanding display of new plant trials at Smith Gardens in Marysville, Wash., a few weeks ago, I noticed several interesting trends.

I had the opportunity to see how the plants from so many companies from around the world compared with each other. They represent some of the best international plant breeders and it was interesting to see where hybridization is going and the specific traits they see as important for the future.

It was a very hot, sunny day and all the trial plants were in full sun, either in containers, or in raised ground beds. Annuals dominated these trials, but perennials were close behind. Another notable feature was the short time these plants had been in the ground. Most of them had only very recently been set out and had a very short timeline to become established. Within the gardening community, that’s a key ingredient for success.

The biggest concern today is weather tolerance. Heat and drought are now two major challenges plants face, and it was great to see how the plants were holding up. Begonias of all types are expanding in popularity, and I was amazed at how these formerly labelled “shade” plants were standing up. Last year, my top pick was a large-flowered European variety called Fragrant Falls and it didn’t disappoint. We grew them this year and I was very impressed with their quality, disease resistance and sun tolerance. Although more upright in nature, they do still have a nice spillover habit making them ideal for hanging baskets.

There were more traditional sun loving begonia baskets on display from many companies, but some of the most impressive were the Beauvilia series from Europe. The colour range was from dark salmon and orange to brilliant red.

The Benary Company from Germany featured a unique fibrous begonia called b. Wookie Pink Splash that really caught my eye, particularly because it was started from seed. It was an attractive pink and white bicolour with a gently trailing habit.

Still one of the most impressive large flowering begonias was the I’Conia series. Portofino Yellow, Portofino Valencia Pink, and Bachelorette Red were all out in the full hot sun with no signs of burning on their foliage or flowers.

Back again was my favourite new giant flowered fibrous begonia series called Mega Cool. Featured in a wide range of colours, their flowers were so impressive in large containers, making them a must-have for hot patios and balconies.

Not to be outdone, I Candy XL begonias from Syngenta, headquartered in Switzerland, were also very impressive. Being sun tolerant, with a beautiful trailing habit and spectacular blooms in a wide range of colours will make them sought after for containers and hanging baskets. Now that Syngenta and Dummen Orange companies have joined forces, we will see quite a collection of new plants in the coming years.

Following on the heat tolerance trend, I was delighted to see Ball Flora Plant’s new series of lobelia called Heatopias. On display were deep blue, soft blue and magenta, performing nicely out in the full hot sun. This will be a huge boost for summer containers and baskets needing a touch of these colours.

Most every company has their own series of incredibly heat tolerant bidens. Usually available mostly in yellows, they have now branched out into orange and red shades, white, and a white and yellow bicolour. On display was a lovely pink bidens called Pink Treat from Danziger. It’s a standout, with a more upright habit, making it ideal for garden beds and containers. This new colour opens up so many possibilities for new plant combinations.

Perennial gaura is quickly becoming more popular because of its brilliant pink, red, and white continuously blooming flowers that attract not only pollinators but butterflies as well. They are becoming hardier, down to Zone 5, and out-bloom most perennials in our summer gardens. The Graceful series from Dummen Orange was truly spectacular. With their rich burgundy foliage, they were easily one of the most impressive flowers in the trials.

Gaillardias, too, were notable for their long flowering period and the Spin Top varieties from Dummen Orange really stood out.

It was great to see so many new heuchera varieties out in the full sun, too. They can now be part of our summer plantings, as opposed to suiting just fall and winter gardens. The Indian Summer Mixed series from Green Trade Horticulture in Escondido, Calif., was quite striking with a vibrant new colour range.

One of the most dramatic new introductions was a persicaria called Glowing Reviews from Walters Gardens in Michigan. With its vibrant foliage, this new hot lime variety will spice up any perennial garden or container. It’s going to be in high demand.

The echinacea collections were most impressive, with huge flowers in a wide range of colours. A series that caught my eye were the Sun Seekers, which had exceptionally large flowers and a good range of colours.

Another standout was the brilliant red flowers of geum Firestarter. Green Trade Horticulture introduced this knockout, which featured a unique colour for the geum family.

There were quite a number of compact delphiniums ideal for smaller gardens, coming in a wide range of colours, but especially blues and purples. One variety of note was Magical Atlanta, again from Green Trade Horticulture.

Of course, coreopsis are one of the longest flowering perennials in any garden, but today there are so many varieties available it’s becoming hard to select just one of them. Some that really shone were the Uptick series from Darwin Plants. There was Uptick Red, but Uptick Yellow and Red, and Uptick Gold and Bronze were among the finest bicolours on display.

Another jewel was a new compact, very dark blue salvia called s. Nemorosa Salvatini. The beauty of this perennial salvia was the fact that it’s a seed variety from Pan American. So many new plants today are only available as vegetative cuttings and there is a trend now of going back to seed. The quality of so many seed hybrids has improved greatly over the past few years, and it is a less expensive way to grow high quality plants. One of my favourites last year, a silver foliaged salvia called s. Lancelot, is a prime example. It is magic in a container, with its pure silver leaves and lavender flowers, and hummingbirds love it.

New plant trials are so important in our industry, not only to develop and discover new plants, but to evaluate their ability to tolerate more demanding weather conditions and to observe their relationship with pollinators and wildlife. I’m happy to share some of these upcoming great new plants with you.

Related

• Brian Minter: Now is the perfect time to plant for late summer colour and harvests
• Brian Minter: How can your garden survive extreme heat? First look to the soil

Tomatoes ‘sweat’, in their own way. On a hot, muggy afternoon the plant is pushing water out through its leaves nonstop, and down where the foliage sits jammed against damp soil with nothing stirring, that moisture has nowhere to go. So it hangs around. Warm, dead-still air against a wet leaf – that's the setup fungal spores are hoping for, and usually where things go wrong.

The fix takes less work than it sounds. A good chunk of growing tomatoes well through a humid summer comes down to airflow, and airflow comes down to which leaves stay on the plant. Strip off the right few and the whole thing breathes easier. Add one cheap trick down at the soil line and a lot of the disease pressure that wrecks a crop never really gets going.

Why the Bottom of the Plant Is Key

(Image credit: Oleh Strus / Getty Images)

A lot of tomato disease starts low and climbs. Those bottom leaves sit right over the dirt, and the dirt is where fungal spores ride out the winter. Then the rain comes, or the hose, and every drop hitting the ground flicks a little back up onto the nearest leaf. Early blight (Alternaria solani) and Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) both get around exactly like this – a few spots low down, some yellowing, then up the plant. Clear off that bottom tier and the splash lands on nothing.

Airflow is the other half. Let a tomato bush out on its own and it becomes this dense, shut-in tangle, the inside of it staying damp hours after the outer leaves have gone dry. Spores are fine with that. Thin it out, get some air moving through the middle, and the leaves dry off quicker once the rain or the dew lifts – and a dry leaf is just a lot harder for anything to get into. None of this means pruning your tomato plant bare, though – it just needs room to breathe.

The 3 Leaves to Snip

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Not every leaf is earning its keep. Three kinds in particular cause more trouble than they're worth once the humidity sets in, and they're the ones to go after first. A clean cut close to the stem does it, and a pair of bypass pruning snips from Amazon makes flush cuts easy and spares the stem.

1. The Lowest Leaves

Start low and work your way up. Anything in that bottom 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30cm) is either touching the soil or hanging just over it – first to catch whatever splashes off the ground. And those are old leaves anyway, shaded out, not pulling their weight, stuck in the worst possible spot on the plant. Snip them flush to the main stem. Once the plant is established and setting fruit, a bare lower stretch of stem does it no harm.

2. Yellowing or Spotted Leaves

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Any tomato leaf going yellow or growing spots has more or less run its course – and if those spots turn out to be disease, it's now a launch pad for more. Don't wait for pruning day to deal with them. Remove them the moment you spot them. A yellow leaf down low is often the first tip-off that something fungal has moved in, and getting it gone fast is cleanup and early warning rolled into one.

3. Crowded Interior Growth

(Image credit: Helin Loik-Tomson / Getty Images)

Deep in a big plant, leaves stack on leaves and almost none of them get real light or air. That congested inner growth is where humidity hangs around the longest. Thinning a few of those interior leaves, along with any small suckers crowding the center, cuts a channel for air to move straight through. You want a plant with daylight showing through it in gaps, not a solid green wall.

The Secret Skirt Trick

(Image credit: portishead1 / Getty Images)

Here's the part many people don’t bother with. Once those lower leaves are gone, lay a skirt around the base of the plant – a ring of mulch or a fabric barrier over the bare soil. It seems too basic to count for much. What it actually does is drop a physical wall between the soil, where the spores live, and the leaves above, so when water hits the ground there's nothing left to splash back up.

Straw works for this, so does shredded bark, and even newspaper under compost will do. Grab a couple bags of shredded mulch from Home Depot and a row is covered without much fuss. Want something you're not redoing every season? A roll of landscape fabric from Walmart does the same job and lasts years. Either way there's a bonus – the cover slows evaporation, so the soil underneath stays damper and more even, roots getting a steady drink while the leaves stay clear of the muck. There's one catch, though. Keep the mulch an inch or two (2 to 5cm) off the stem. Bank it right against the stem and it traps enough moisture to start rot.

Have you ever heard of living mulch? A useful solution for gardeners looking to improve soil health, suppress weeds and reduce watering during the hottest months of the year, it consists of low-growing ground cover plants that create a protective green layer over the soil.

Much like traditional garden mulches (such as bark or straw), this living carpet has several benefits, not least keeping the soil cooler in summer, slowing moisture loss and reducing erosion during periods of hot and very dry weather.

In addition to this, though, many living mulch plants help improve soil over time. Legumes (or the pea family), for example, fix nitrogen in the soil, which is why it is always a good idea to simply snip sweet peas and beans to ground level in the fall and let those roots work their magic. This process can also reduce the need for additional fertilizers.

Try These 6 Living Mulch Plants

Beyond protecting the soil, living mulch plants provide valuable habitat and nectar for pollinators, helping to boost biodiversity while creating a lush look in beds and borders.

So, whether you want to protect your dry yard from soil degradation, enrich tired soil, reduce maintenance or simply fill bare patches with attractive greenery, consider living mulch the answer. It is, quite simply one of the easiest ways to create a healthier, more resilient garden.

With that in mind, then, here are six essential ground cover plants to consider this year.

1. Nasturtium

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Nasturtiums are invaluable to gardeners. These fuss-free trailing plants bring months of colorful blooms while the rounded foliage (almost like water lily pads) smartly covers bare soil. They work in pots, of course, but I like using them in vegetable beds or kitchen gardens, filling those spaces between rows of carrots, lettuces or whatever it is you are growing.

If you want to try growing nasturtiums, sow seeds (available to buy via Amazon) directly where they are to grow. You can plant them most anywhere, with a preference for full sun and a decent amount of water to help them settle and establish. In warmer spots, such as US hardiness zone 8 plus, part-shade is just fine. There is no need to fertilize .

Try these 'Black Velvet' variety for a dramatic bloom display, available via Walmart.

2. Yarrow

(Image credit: Getty Images)

For full sun yards, yarrow is a good living mulch plant option to consider, easily covering borders and flower beds.

Live yarrow plants are available via Walmart, and they across USDA Planting Zones 3-9, tolerating chilly winters and hot summer sunshine. It has attractive silver-green foliage that cover soil, as well as colourful flat flowers that pollinators love.

Yarrow plants typically have a dense fibrous root mat that can help to bind and anchor lighter, more sandy soils, too. For a brighter variety, try the pink 'Cerise Queen', available from Amazon.

3. Red clover

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Clover is a low-growing perennial legume that fixes nitrogen in the soil, as well as carpetting vast areas of turf, beds or borders. Sure, some people might think of it as a nuisance weed, but not me. It has pretty, delicate leaves with three (or four, if you are lucky) leaflets, as well as plenty of flowers for pollinators in spring and summer.

Red clover, or Trifolium pratense, thrives in cool, moist soils and tolerates some shade. It forms a dense mat that suppresses weeds and reduces soil erosion in the summer, too. And, if you dread yard work and fear the weekend chore of mowing, clover is a good option for lawns, requiring far less water than traditional turf.

Red clover seed is available from Walmart, and can be grown down to US hardiness zone 6. It is typically not frost tender, and will produce masses of purple-pink blooms from May through September.

Remember: red clover is categorized as an invasive plant in some US regions, particularly in areas of disturbed soil. Be sure to consult the website of your local government office before planting.

Shop Gardening Essentials:

The Garden Through Time book

Telling the story of 45 gardens found worldwide, The Garden Through Time by Thomas Rutter is an essential read (or gift) for gardeners.

Vivosun Pruning Shears

These professional-grade snips are ideal deadheading and pruning your living mulch plants and keeping them in check.

Wild Ginger Plants

Wild ginger plants are native to North America and are the perfect living mulch to create a lusher, greener carpet.

4. Wild Ginger

(Image credit: Alamy)

Hardy down to zone 3, wild ginger (or Asarum canadense, if you prefer) is a North American ground cover species that grows across much of Canada and the US.

In shady and moist environments, it can grow a little too well, forming dense mats that spread via rhizomatous growth. But, in large plots, where you have the space, wild ginger is a good option for a living mulch plants that protects the soil and doesn't require any special attention,

You can find bare root wild ginger plants at Amazon. Just remember that, in terms of how to grow wild ginger, shade is essential. Planting under large trees or shrubs is a good option, particularly if you want to cover large swathes of bare soil.

5. Purple Prairie Clover

(Image credit: jMortensen)

Purple prairie clover, or Dalea purpurea, is one of those native prairie plants that quietly does a lot of hard work in the yard. This drought-tolerant perennial legume fixes nitrogen in the soil, helping to improve fertility while producing slender stems topped with vibrant purple flower spikes that pollinators adore throughout summer. What more could you want?

Hardy down to US zone 3, purple prairie clover thrives in full sun and well-draining soils, making it an ideal living mulch for hot, dry gardens where many other ground covers struggle. It has a deep root system that helps to stabilize soil, improve structure and reduce erosion over time.

If you are gardening for wildlife, this is a particularly good choice. Bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects flock to the nectar-rich blooms, while the foliage supports several native insect species. Be sure, then, to treat them to purple prairie clover seeds, which are widely available from retailers including Amazon..

6. Creeping Phlox

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Creeping phlox, or Phlox stolonifera, is one of my favourite native ground covers for filling awkward gaps. Whether spilling over retaining walls or carpeting the front of your borders, it creates a dense mat of evergreen foliage that works hard all year round.

Hardy in US zones 5 to 8, creeping phlox thrives in well-draining soil and performs best with at least a few hours of direct sun each day. The more sunshine, the more flowers. Once established, it requires very little attention, making these easy living mulch plants to grow that help to shade the soil, retain moisture and reduce weed growth.

The phlox show begins in spring, when the foliage is almost hidden beneath masses of white, pink, purple or lavender flowers. This floral display lasts for several weeks, but the rather smart green foliage remains attractive long after the blooms have faded, helping to protect bare soil throughout the growing season.

What more reason do you need, then, to pick up some creeping phlox live plants from Amazon?

The plant looks like it's doing everything right. Big yellow flowers cover it, new ones opening every morning, the whole thing sprawling and green. Then the little fruits behind some of those flowers start to swell, reach maybe an inch or two (2 to 5cm), and go soft, yellowing at the tip before they drop. It leaves nothing to harvest – just a run of false starts.

That collapse almost always traces back to one thing – pollination that didn't take. The basics of how to grow zucchini get a plant to the flowering stage without much trouble, but flowers on their own don't make fruit. Pollen has to move from the male blooms to the female ones, and in a hot summer that hand-off often just doesn't happen. The good part is that it's an easy gap to close by hand.

Why the Baby Fruits Just Quit

A female zucchini flower comes with a tiny fruit already attached, sitting right behind the petals before it has even opened. That little fruit is basically on standby. If enough pollen reaches the flower while it's open, the fruit gets the signal to keep growing. If it doesn't, the plant cuts its losses – the fruit yellows, softens, and drops, since there's no sense pouring energy into something that won't hold seed.

Heat is where it usually goes wrong. Each zucchini flower gives you one morning, maybe, and then it closes for good – so the window was tight even before the weather got involved. Now push things past 90F (32C). The pollen starts to give out, losing the viability it needs to do anything, and the bees that would've been working the patch mostly clear off until the heat lets up. Fewer visits, weaker pollen, and a lot of those morning flowers close again having never really been pollinated.

Telling the Male Flowers From the Female

(Image credit: Olena Malik / Getty Images)

It's easy to see the difference between male and female squash blossoms, once you know the tell. Look at the stem right behind the flower. A male flower sits on a plain, slim stalk – nothing behind the petals but stem. A female flower has what looks like a miniature zucchini bulging at its base, right where the bloom meets the vine. That bulge is the unfertilized fruit, and it's the whole giveaway.

There's a timing quirk worth knowing, too. For the first week or two, a young plant will often put out male flowers and nothing else, no females anywhere, and every summer this sends somebody into a mild panic. Nothing's wrong. The males just show up first, getting the pollen ready for whenever the females decide to open. Once both are opening on the same morning, you're in business – that's when hand pollination actually does something.

Hand Pollinating, Step by Step

(Image credit: zeleno)

Hand pollinating squash and zucchini requires no special gear – just a minute of your time, and maybe a soft artist's brush from Amazon if you want it tidy. Morning is the time, before the heat climbs, while the flowers are actually open and the pollen hasn't dried out.

1. Start with a male flower that's wide open, the anther in the middle loaded up with pollen. Snap it off the plant, stem and all.
2. Now strip it down – pull the petals back and off, until what's left is basically a pollen-tipped wand on a stem.
3. Find a female that's open (baby fruit behind the petals, remember) and touch that anther to the middle of the flower, brushing it lightly over every side of the stigma. A couple seconds does it, with no need to be precious about it.
4. Move on. One male flower usually carries enough pollen for two or three females, so work down the row while you're out there.

No males open that morning? A soft brush or a cotton swab covers the same ground – swipe it around inside a male flower, then carry that pollen over to whatever females are open. Cotton swabs from Walmart are cheap enough to use once and toss.

Getting the Bees to Do It for You

(Image credit: John Kimbler / 500px / Getty Images)

Hand pollination is a stopgap, useful but not something anyone wants to do forever. Better to get the bees doing the work again. Flowers blooming near the zucchini pull double duty here – a bee already out working the yard for nectar will swing through the squash blossoms on its rounds. And it's the mix that matters, not the count. Different bloom shapes, different colors, and you pull in a wider range of insects than any single kind manages on its own.

Cut back on the broad-spectrum insecticides, too, or just skip spraying entirely while flowers are open and bees are on them – plenty of those products wipe out pollinators right alongside whatever pest you were chasing. Set out a shallow dish of water with a couple stones poking up for landing spots. Bees need to drink, and one that drinks in your garden tends to stay in it. None of this amounts to much alone. Together, it's the difference between attracting bees for steady fruit and standing out there every morning playing bee yourself.

Keeping It from Happening Again

(Image credit: spline_x)

When heat is the real problem with your zucchini, the fix is shielding the plants through the worst of it. In a stretch of extreme temperatures, a bit of afternoon shade takes the edge off enough to keep pollen viable and bees active into the morning. A length of shade cloth from Home Depot rigged over the bed during a heat wave handles that without much effort, and it comes right back off once the weather breaks.

Timing helps as well. A deep watering early in the day keeps plants from stacking drought stress on top of heat stress, and a plant that isn't struggling holds onto more of its flowers. Beyond that, watch the forecast – when a run of 95F (35C) days is coming, that's the week to be out there in the morning with a brush, instead of hoping the bees push through weather they'd usually sit out.

There are several things that can be unreliable in summer: tents, whether it will rain at your picnic, and allergies. One thing that is always a given? Mosquitos. It’s like they sense when you’ve laid the table, lit the candles, and invited over your friends for a perfect evening. Right on cue, those pesky mosquitoes show up uninvited and proceed to feast on everyone’s ankles.

Fortunately, there are some products that actually work well, and none of them are citronella candles. Knowing which tool to reach for in moments of annoyance when the mosquitoes start biting, plus knowing where and how to use them, makes all the difference. For a broader overview before you buy, check out our guide to 9 natural ways to get rid of mosquitoes.

Here are 7 products worth adding to your arsenal this summer.

Summit Mosquito Dunks (6-Pack)

Summit Chemical Summit Mosquito Dunks, 20 Dunks

Mosquitoes breed in standing water, so if you have any on your property, like a rain barrel, a pond, a birdbath, or even a blocked gutter, you need some Mosquito Dunks. Each donut-shaped dunk contains BTI (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). This is a naturally occurring bacterium that is toxic to mosquito larvae but completely harmless to other things like fish, birds, pets, and humans.

Drop one of these babies into standing water, and it will slowly release BTI for up to 30 days. It’s best used proactively, so don’t wait until you see mosquitoes because by then it’s too late. The great thing about these is that they treat up to 100 square feet of surface water (so perfect if you have a little pond), and it’s the product that famously powers the “bucket of doom,” which you can read about here. The bucket of doom is a DIY trap that lures and kills mosquitoes before they even get a chance to hatch.

For bird bath use specifically, check out our guide on how to stop mosquitoes breeding in your bird bath.

Summit Mosquito Bits (8 oz)

Summit Mosquito Bits 8oz

Mosquito Bits are basically a fast-acting version of the Dunks. It’s the same BTI technology but in a granule format that works within 24 hours. This is ideal if you’ve got a major infestation of larvae on your hands that needs knocking back quickly.

Sprinkle them right onto the surface water, or soak them in a watering can and apply to garden beds where water tends to collect. Many gardeners use Bits as an initial shock treatment, then follow up with Dunks for ongoing monthly control.

Bonus: they're also EPA-labeled to kill fungus gnat larvae in potted plants, which is a very welcome side effect.

Thermacell ZoneGuard Mosquito Repeller

Thermacell Rechargeable Mosquito Repeller

This is one of those products that always makes people scratch their heads and wonder why they didn’t think to buy it sooner. The Thermacell works by heating the repellent within the rechargeable device. From there, it diffuses an odorless, DEET-free repellent, creating a 20-foot zone of protection around wherever you place it. That means no yucky smell from mosquito spray or citronella, and no smoke. You can just set it in the center of your table or wherever you’re sitting outside, wait 15 minutes, and mosquitoes will leave that area. Editor Kathleen Walters never hosts garden parties without her Thermacell. She's a certified mosquito magnet and swears by it!

The device has a 6.5-hour charge, and each cartridge lasts for 36 hours. It's been around for over 25 years and is consistently rated one of the most effective patio mosquito solutions out there. It works best in calm conditions, as the wind reduces the zone of protection significantly, so if it’s stormy out, probably best to go with another option or at least position it in a sheltered area.

Sawyer Premium 20% Picaridin Insect Repellent Spray

Sawyer Picaridin Insect Repellent, 4-Ounce, Pump Spray, Twin Pack

If you’re working in the garden rather than just sitting at the table and relaxing, you’ll need a personal repellent for your skin. Picaridin is the active ingredient that has largely overtaken DEET as the recommendation from outdoor experts and public health agencies. It’s equal in effectiveness, super comfy to wear, and won’t melt your sunglasses or damage synthetic fabrics in your clothes.

Sawyer's 20% formula protects against mosquitoes and ticks for up to 12 hours, dries quickly, and has no noticeable smell once you’ve applied it. It was even rated by the New York Times Wirecutter and Consumer Reports as a top pick. Apply it to all your exposed skin before heading outside, especially the back of the neck and ankles, which mosquitoes love to target.

Permethrin Insect Repellent for Clothing and Gear

Sawyer Permethrin Clothing and Gear Insect Repellent Trigger Spray, 22.5-Oz

While Picaridin is great for using on your skin, you still need something for your clothes, tents, and gear if you’re out camping or hiking, and that’s where permethrin comes in. The great thing about this is that it not only repels mosquitoes and other insects, but it also kills them upon contact.

Spray it on your shirts, pants, socks, and garden gloves, and it will bond to the fabric, remaining effective for up to 6 weeks or 6 washes. A University of Rhode Island study found that people who treated their shoes and socks with permethrin were 73.6 times less likely to get a tick bite, so it’s pulling double duty.

Note: Make sure you apply it to dry clothes outside and allow it to dry completely before wearing them, as it should never go directly on skin.

Thermacell E-ZoneGuard Rechargeable Mosquito Repeller

Thermacell E-ZoneGuard Patio Rechargeable Mosquito Repeller

While the fuel-powered Thermacell E-ZoneGuard is for the table, this rechargeable version is for moving around the garden. It’s USB-charged and comes with a 9-hour battery and a 20-foot protection zone. It can go with you whether you're weeding, entertaining at different spots around the yard, or taking it camping. It’s DEET-free, scentless, and best of all, you can take it through airport security if you’re going on a plane. The larger protection zone makes it slightly better suited to open spaces where wind might otherwise reduce the effectiveness.

Tiki Brand BiteFighter Torch Fuel

TIKI BiteFighter Mosquito Repellent Torch Fuel

If you want a little ambiance while you control the mosquitoes, this Tiki BiteFighter torch fuel has cedar oil and lemongrass. These are natural ingredients that repel mosquitoes, and it will burn inside any standard Tiki torch for up to 12 hours per fill.

It won’t necessarily replace the Thermacell if you’re under serious pressure from mosquitoes. But, for a light summer night where you want something that looks good and works decently, a ring of lit Tiki torches around a seating area is a solid strategy. Remember the golden rule though: Direction matters, so position torches upwind of wherever you’re sitting.

July brings a wave of garden pests out in force. Heat and lush growth are exactly what they want, and a few of them can strip a tomato plant or hollow an iris rhizome in a matter of days. Catching them early is most of the battle.

Something shifts in the garden around July. The spring rush of aphids and slugs settles down in many gardens, and a tougher, hungrier crew takes over. Some tunnel out of sight, inside stems and rhizomes, doing their damage before you notice. Others arrive in swarms, or as a single caterpillar big enough to strip a plant overnight. Warm nights and dense foliage are just what they want, and a bed that looked spotless in June can take a beating before the trouble is obvious.

Knowing the common garden pests likely to show up this month makes them far easier to stop, since most do their worst while nobody's looking. The six here hit both edible and ornamental beds, and each has a tell — a specific kind of damage, or a spot it likes to hide — that gives it away early. Catch that, and treatment is usually simple.

6 July Pests, and How to Shut Them Down

One rule cuts across all of these: early action beats cleanup, every time. By the time the damage looks dramatic, the pest has usually moved on or multiplied. Catching the first signs is the whole game.

1. Squash Vine Borer

(Image credit: Michael LaMonica / Shutterstock)

A squash plant thriving one day and collapsed the next almost always points to squash vine borer. The adult is a clearwing moth that looks more like a wasp, laying eggs at the base of squash and zucchini stems in early to midsummer. The larvae bore straight into the stem and hollow it from the inside until the vine can't move water — hence the sudden collapse.

Look for a small hole near the base ringed with sawdust-like frass. Prevention wins here, and a floating row cover from Amazon over the young plants keeps the moth from laying in the first place — it just has to come off once flowers open for pollination.

If a borer's already inside, sometimes you can still save the plant. Slit the stem lengthwise, dig the grub out, then mound moist soil over that spot so the vine roots again above the injury and keeps feeding itself.

2. Tomato Hornworm

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

For something that can reach 4 inches (10cm), the tomato hornworm is shockingly easy to miss. It's the exact green of a tomato stem, with a soft spike on its tail, and it feeds fast — a couple can defoliate a plant and start on the fruit in a day or two. The droppings give it away before the caterpillar does: dark pellets on the lower leaves, bare stems up top. Handpicking at dusk works well.

Editor Kathleen Walters’ favorite way to spot them is with a UV (black light) flashlight! They light up neon-green when you shine a black light, available from Amazon, around your tomato plants in the dusk or dark. No more hiding hornworms!

For a heavier run, the go-to spray is Bt from Amazon. It's a naturally occurring soil bacterium that affects only caterpillars, harmless to everything else. One exception: a hornworm studded with white rice-like cocoons should be left alone. Those are parasitic wasps, and they are already handling it for you!

3. Iris Borer

(Image credit: Samantha Locking / Getty Images)

The worst of an iris borer's damage happens underground, out of sight, which is exactly what makes it so destructive. Eggs laid last fall hatch in spring, and by July the larvae have tunneled down the leaves into the rhizome and hollowed it out. That opens the door to bacterial soft rot, which finishes the job: a firm rhizome turns to foul-smelling mush.

Early on, watch for water-soaked streaks or ragged notches along the leaf edges. No spray reaches them once they're inside, so this one comes down to sanitation. Cut and destroy old iris foliage in fall to kill the eggs before they overwinter. Divide clumps every few years and toss any rhizome that's gone soft.

4. Phlox Bug

Tall garden phlox is a July staple, and the phlox bug times its arrival to match. The orange-and-black adults and their nymphs gather on stems and leaf undersides, piercing the tissue to drink sap. The result is a stippled, mottled look — pale flecks and yellowing that curl the leaves and warp new growth, sometimes stunting the flower heads before they open.

Since they feed in groups, a quick shake over soapy water takes out a lot at once. For a real colony, insecticidal soap from Amazon sprayed onto the undersides where they hide does the trick, though it only works on direct contact. Clearing plant debris in fall removes the eggs they leave behind for next year.

5. Japanese Beetles

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The traps sold for Japanese beetles are, counterintuitively, one of the worst things you can hang in a yard. The pheromone lure pulls in far more beetles than it ever catches. The beetles are hard to miss otherwise: metallic green and copper, about half an inch (1cm) long, feeding in groups through July on roses, beans, grapes, plus many more plants. They skeletonize leaves, chewing out the soft tissue and leaving a lacy web of veins.

Hand-picking is the most effective fix (as low-tech as that sounds). Knock them into soapy water early, in the cool of morning when they're sluggish. For the long game, treating the lawn for grubs thins out next summer's crop.

6. Spider Mites

(Image credit: Tomasz Klejdysz / Getty Images)

Hot, dry, dusty weather is a spider mite's ideal world, which is why they tend to explode in July. They aren't insects at all, they're tiny arachnids. Spider mites a barely visible, so what most people notice first is the damage: fine pale stippling across the leaves, then a dull bronze cast as it spreads. Webbing strung between the leaves turns up later, once they're established.

Because they aren't insects, plenty of general bug sprays do nothing to them. What works is water and oil. A hard blast from the hose knocks them loose, and neem oil from Amazon smothers the rest. Raising the humidity around the plants helps, too.

We have enough to do in the summer months, from daily watering chores and weeding to keeping bird feeders full. So saving time wherever we can is always a win. The last thing a gardener needs is yet another maintenance task on that never-ending list when you’d rather spend more time enjoying the garden.

One of the best parts of creating your very own backyard oasis is attracting and watching birds. Along with providing food and shelter, adding a bird bath is one of the most helpful things you can do for feathered visitors. But as temperatures rise in summer, bird baths get dirty fast. Keeping on top of algae buildup, cloudy water, and frequent scrubbing turns this relaxing hobby into another chore.

Fresh water is vital for keeping birds happy and healthy, but luckily, there is a simple way to cut down on maintenance and give you more time to enjoy your backyard visitors. Say hello to the Mellbree Bird Bath Purification Disc. This affordable Amazon find harnesses copper's natural properties to help keep bird bath water cleaner for longer.

(Image credit: Future - Amy Draiss)How Copper Bird Bath Discs Work

Inspired by the old trick of adding a copper penny to a bird bath, these discs offer a more effective way to help keep water cleaner. Copper is naturally antimicrobial and slowly releases tiny amounts of copper ions into the water. These can help inhibit algae and other microorganisms, so the bird bath stays cleaner for longer.

While it won't eliminate the need to periodically empty and scrub your bird bath, it can help keep the water cleaner and clearer between refills, reducing the amount of scrubbing needed throughout the summer.

Mellbree Bird Bath Purification Disc

Made from 99.9% pure copper, this simple disc helps keep bird bath water clean for as long as possible. Simply place the disc in your bird bath and let it get to work.

Costing just over $10, it’s a budget-friendly solution, and this two-pack from Amazon offers even better value. Use both if you have more than one bird bath, or keep one and share the other with a neighbor or friend. Chances are, they don’t enjoy scrubbing bird baths any more than you do. It also makes a thoughtful gift for any gardener and is something they’re unlikely to already own.

For even better results, pair a copper disc with a small solar fountain, like this Mademax design. The moving water helps increase oxygen levels, making it more difficult for algae to establish while also attracting more birds to your garden.

A bonus is that moving water discourages mosquitoes from laying their eggs, creating a healthier and more inviting bird bath for your backyard visitors. Better yet, the copper disc won't interfere with bird bath fountain pumps or bird bath heaters, so you can use it year-round.

How to Install

I found the disc incredibly simple to install. It only takes a minute to set up, making it one of the easiest upgrades you can make to your bird bath.

Start by giving your bird bath a thorough cleaning, removing any algae, bird droppings, and debris such as fallen leaves. Refill it with fresh water, then peel off the blue protective film from the copper disc. Place the disc in the bird bath with the three raised nodules facing down so they rest against the bottom of the basin.

(Image credit: Future - Amy Draiss)

That's all there is to it. It's almost surprising how such a small, simple disc can make caring for a bird bath so much easier. With almost 3,000 five-star reviews on Amazon, it seems like many gardeners are happy with the results and appreciate how easy this little upgrade is to add to their backyard bird setup.

While the copper disc won't eliminate the need for some maintenance, it can help keep the water cleaner for longer, meaning you'll likely spend less time scrubbing during the summer months. Instead of frequent deep cleanings, routine maintenance may be as simple as removing leaves and other debris, giving the bird bath a quick rinse when needed, and refilling it with fresh water for your feathered visitors.

Compatibility

As a word of caution, while this copper disc is compatible with most bird bath materials, including ceramic, concrete, stone, and properly coated metal, there are a few considerations for metal basins.

(Image credit: AI/Mellbree )

If using the disc in a metal bird bath, the inner protective coating must be fully intact and free from scratches, peeling, or damage. Exposed metal surfaces, such as stainless steel, iron, or other alloys, may react with copper ions in the water and increase the risk of galvanic corrosion. A damaged or deteriorating coating can also accelerate copper oxidation, so it’s best to avoid using the disc in any metal bird bath where the protective finish is compromised.

Build a Better Backyard Bird Oasis

A bird bath is just one part of creating a welcoming space for backyard birds. To make your garden even more inviting, consider adding a few simple upgrades that can help attract more feathered visitors and create a backyard habitat they’ll enjoy.

Birdfy Bird Bath with Camera & Fountain

This smart bird bath is a splurge, but it combines a solar-powered fountain with a dual-lens camera, motion detection, and AI bird identification, so you can watch and record every feathered visitor from your phone.

Urban Deco Outdoor Bird Feeding Station With Pole

You get a lot for your money with this budget-friendly feeding station, which has four hanging hooks, two feeders, and a bath tray, plus adjustable components so you can create a more inviting setup for backyard birds.

Kaytee Ultimate Birder's Blend Food

This popular bird seed blend combines safflower, peanuts, striped sunflower, and millet to attract colorful backyard visitors such as cardinals, woodpeckers, blue jays, and finches.

If summer heat bothers you in July, just think what all those scorching daylight hours do to a mama or papa hummingbird. We’re always glad to see them back in summer, but do you ever stop to think about the stress and strain of the hummingbird lifestyle in summer?

In July, the chicks are hatched and hungry, and the parents need to get them fed and to feed themselves. But that’s not all. Hummers have to get regular water as well, defend their nests, and teach their young how to feed.

While it’s great to ask how to attract hummingbirds to your yard, the more important question is how you can help them get through this hot period and prepare for the Great Hummingbird Migration that begins in August. To paraphrase President John F. Kennedy, “Ask not how to get the hummingbird show into your yard, but what you can do for these tiny creatures.”

Here are the five most important steps each of us gardeners can take to help out these gorgeous, hovering superbirds in July.

1. Change Out Feeders Every Few Days

(Image credit: Redtbird02 / Shutterstock)

Did you know that hummingbirds need to eat at least every hour, and sometimes as often as every 15 minutes? You have probably admired their navigational abilities and how they can fly sideways, backwards, and hover. These adaptations help them get to all of the nectar available – each bird can visit over 1,000 flowers each day! But these acrobatics are also very energy intensive.

Hatchlings need almost as much food as adult birds, but, in July it is often the mother that provides. She brings not just nectar but also insects to the babies, leaving and returning to the nest at least 200 times a day. That makes hummingbird feeders important in keeping the mother bird’s energy up.

So make up the hummingbird nectar properly – sugar and water is fine or you can buy premade nectar from Amazon. But the trickier part is to remember to change the food well before it’s gone. You need to clear out old food, clean the feeder to keep it free from harmful bacteria, and replenish it. The food spoils faster when it’s hot, so a daily cleaning in July is not out of the question. Clean at least twice a week.

2. Install a Misting Water Feature

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Providing liquid food is great, but hummers also need to cool down. While a bird bath works fine for bigger birds like robins, hummingbirds rarely dip into a bath. What they really love is mist. You may see them outside in the morning, appreciating the rising fog and morning dew.

So July is a great time to install a small water fountain in your bird bath for your hummingbirds. There are even solar-powered fountains for birds available for under $10 on Amazon.

Hang the fountain in a shady location and watch the birds flock over to cool off. One option to consider is the weeping fountain, where a thin sheet of water moves over the edge of a concrete basin. You want the water shallow enough to be safe for the tiny birds.

3. Protect Hummingbird Nests

(Image credit: Dusty Roads / Shutterstock)

Who among us wouldn’t love to be able to peek into a hummingbird nest to watch the eggs turn into hatchlings? Resist that impulse even if an accessible nest appears in your yard. Make sure nobody – including your kids – removes branches or a leafy canopy in order to get a better view.

Like every species on earth, hummingbirds have enemies – and they are so small that, despite the fierce energy of competing male hummers – they are largely powerless to fight off attackers. So help them by leaving up branches and other protections. Keep the cat inside and the kids under control when you are hosting a hummingbird family and turning your yard into a hummingbird hangout.

4. Move Potted Flowers to the Shade

(Image credit: Ali Majdfar / Getty Images)

If you're anything like me, you think as much about your hummingbirds as you do about yourself when you are planting containers for the patio. I always make sure to plant trumpet-shaped and tubular flowers that hummingbirds adore in pots on the porch.

What I only recently learned was that, as summer heat rolls in, hummingbirds need to spend more time in the shade than the sun. They may perch in shade or, if there are nectar-rich plants in the shade, they prefer these to flowers in the sun.

Now I always take the time to move some flowering container plants into the shade in the heat of summer. Even dappled shade from a landscape tree works well. I’m also trying to select flowering shrubs that are dense for the backyard since they carry their own shade on the interior of the plant.

5. Add Perches for Hummingbirds

(Image credit: Getty Images)

You can even go one step further and provide perches for hummingbirds in shaded spots, like an adorable DIY hummingbird swing or a hummingbird perch from Amazon. But this idea is more than just cute. It can really help the birds in a heatwave.

During a heatwave, few of us rush outside to tan. It’s just too hot to be comfortable. The same is true for hummingbirds. They seek out shade to get out of the sun, hide from predators, and conserve their energy. Hummingbird swings and perches can fill that need. Hang them from low tree branches in a shady spot, then watch and wait for the hummingbirds to come.

Watering a plant less might sound like neglect, but done deliberately, it does the opposite. The right approach pushes roots deeper and builds real resilience, so a plant can ride out a dry spell that would have wilted it before.

It sounds like wishful thinking, or a shortcut for people who forget to water. But there's real science behind the idea that plants can be coaxed to get by on less. The trick isn't a special product or gadget – it comes down to how and when the water gets there, and what that teaches a plant's roots over time. Change the watering habit, and you can shift how a plant handles dry weather.

Not every plant will cooperate, and the whole approach leans on choosing drought-tolerant plants with the genes for it to begin with. Still, a lot of ordinary garden plants have capacity they never get to use, simply because they're watered too often to develop it. The idea is to coax that capacity out – not to force a plant past what it can handle.

What Drought Training Actually Means

(Image credit: VH Studio / Shutterstock)

What’s being trained is the root system, not the plant itself. When water always sits near the surface, roots have very little reason to grow deeper, so they stay shallow – and a shallow-rooted plant wilts the moment the top inch (2.5cm) of soil dries out. Water deeply and less often, and the roots will normally follow the moisture down instead, building a deeper network that draws from a much greater reservoir of soil.

There's a second piece to it, as well. Plants grown just a touch on the dry side can often adjust how they manage water, developing a slightly thicker and waxier coating on their leaves, tightening control over stomata – those pores that release water vapor. This helps them hold moisture for longer.

None of this rewrites a plant's genetics, though. A thirsty species stays thirsty at its core, so training helps build resilience within a plant's natural range rather than turning a water-lover into a desert survivor.

The Deep-and-Wait Method

(Image credit: MichaelMajor)

The method is almost boringly simple: water them deeply, then wait. A deep soak means wetting the soil down 6–12 inches (15–30 cm), and not just dampening the surface, which draws roots downward after it. This is where a soaker hose helps (I recommend this Gilmour one from Amazon), trickling water out slowly enough to soak in rather than sheet off the top.

Then comes the more difficult part for most gardeners – leaving it alone until the soil has dried out several inches down.

Knowing when it's time is where a quick check pays off. Push a finger a few inches (7–8 cm) into the soil: if it's dry down there, water, and if it's still cool and damp, wait a while longer. If you'd rather not dig around, this trusty Xlux soil moisture meter reads it in seconds.

One word of caution: don't slash an established plant's watering overnight. Ease off gradually over a few weeks so the roots have time to adjust and grow, instead of getting shocked into dropping leaves. The goal isn’t to let plants repeatedly wilt – severe drought stress weakens growth and can lead to pests or disease. You’re aiming for mild drying between deep waterings, not prolonged dryness.

Deep Watering Tools

Enomol Deep Root Watering Tool

Deliver water directly to the root zone of trees and shrubs with this clever tool. Just stake it in the ground where you want it to go.

Hlinker Flat Soaker Hoses – 2 Pack

This pack of two flat soaker hoses covers 100 ft, delivering a slow, steady stream of water straight to plant roots. It’s a simple, water-efficient option.

Carpathen Drip Irrigation System Kit

This adjustable drip irrigation kit includes 100 feet of tubing and multiple emitters to help you build a custom watering system for your garden.

Plants That Can Be Trained to Need Less Water

(Image credit: Herman Bresser / Getty Images)

This technique works best on plants built to handle it. Established trees and shrubs are the most ideal, along with deep-rooted perennials, since they have the root architecture to reach down and use the moisture below. Native plants matched to the local climate tend to respond well, as do your ornamental grasses and Mediterranean herbs like rosemary and thyme, since they evolved in lean, dry ground. Most succulents barely need any convincing at all. Their drying out between drinks is closer to their natural rhythm than constant moisture is.

The one word that matters most here is “established”. A plant needs a mature, healthy root system before you start pushing it to stretch, which usually means at least a full season in the ground. Lawns fit the same pattern: watering deeply once or twice a week, rather than a daily sprinkle, drives grass roots down and produces turf that stays green far longer between rains.

Plants That Won't Play Along

(Image credit: Grafvision / Shutterstock)

Plenty of plants will only suffer under this approach, so it helps to know which before you experiment. Seedlings and anything newly planted need steady, consistent moisture to establish, and withholding water there isn't training – it's just stress that stunts or kills them. Moisture-lovers won't adapt either. Ferns and many tropical houseplants are wired for constant dampness, as is anything native to a bog or streambank, and letting them dry out only brings crisping leaves and slow decline.

Food crops are their own case, though. Most vegetables actually need even, reliable watering to produce well, and letting tomatoes swing between bone-dry and soaked gives you cracked fruit and blossom-end rot, while leafy greens turn bitter and bolt under drought stress.

Container plants are the other exception, for a purely physical reason – a pot doesn't hold enough soil volume for roots to grow as deep as they would in the ground, and they lose moisture faster. The deep-and-wait method that works in the ground just leaves a potted plant dry and struggling.

Setting the Whole Space Up to Need Less

(Image credit: Edwardkirillov / Shutterstock)

Training plants goes further when the whole setup supports it. A few inches (5 to 8cm) of mulch over the soil slows evaporation and keeps roots cooler, so whatever moisture is down there lasts longer between waterings. A couple bags of shredded mulch, like this CountryMax shredded hardwood, will cover most beds and break down into the soil over time, improving its structure as they go. Working compost in does something similar from below, since soil rich in organic matter holds water like a sponge instead of shedding it.

Grouping plants with similar water needs is another quiet advantage, since it keeps the thirsty ones from dragging the tough ones onto a heavier schedule than they need.

Beyond that, the honest shortcut is matching plants to the spot in the first place. A garden built around species suited to the local rainfall barely needs training at all, because those plants were already going to thrive on less.