Organic Gardening News

The evening winding down into nightfall is by far my favorite part of the day, especially during the summer months. After a busy day I love watching the world wind down as sunsets take over the sky and I switch on my cozy lighting instead of the harsh overheads.

It seems like gardeners have been feeling the same way this year, preferring to opt for solar-powered lanterns that offer a soothing, subtle ambience instead of the harsher bulbs of floodlights.

I decided to chat to an assortment of yard pros to try to understand why this shift has happened and what the pros and cons of switching out floodlighting in your yard for solar lighting are. Here's what I found out.

Why Are Solar Lights Popular Right Now?

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Solar-powered lights are super popular right now because the weather for them is ideal! When you're out enjoying a peaceful moment in the yard alone or entertaining company, the day's worth of sunlight will have likely already charged up your solar lamps to max capacity.

As Mirela Bajic, Senior Garden Designer at House Designer, explains, "Summer is when people live in their gardens, eating out, entertaining, sitting out late, so their garden lighting creates a nice atmosphere. Solar lights are great because long days mean they charge properly and perform at their best."

Moreover, as people are often out late in their yards making the most out of the lovely weather before fall rolls in they may find themselves still outdoors when the sky begins to darken. Solar-powered lighting offers the perfect level of ambient lighting to bridge this gap at dusk, giving a soft amount of light to a yard so a person can see better when a huge level of extra lighting isn't needed.

What Are the Pros and Cons?

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There are a number of pros and cons that come with using solar-powered lighting, but there seem to be notably more positives to negatives.

Mirela notes that solar-powered lights having "no running cost or cables" are major selling points, especially as the world only seems to be becoming more expensive to live in. Mirela also added that solar lamps are "easy to rearrange and move around" in comparison to other outdoor lighting like floodlighting, which is often larger or anchored down.

Many gardeners adore solar lamps over floodlighting because it adds a warm glow to a yard instead of a harsh glare. You can also find solar lamps in various different styles, shapes, and colors to suit your vision.

However, a major con for solar lamps is their dependency on good, unblocked sunlight to run and the fact that cheaper models often only last a couple of seasons.

Angelika Zaber, a lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf, shares, "When it comes to disadvantages, solar lights may not change enough to keep your garden well-lit all night, especially if they are placed in a shady area during the day. They also tend to provide subtle light, so if you want your space to be well-lit, you may need to buy a lot of them or invest in some additional light sources.

"The batteries also tend to only last a few years. After that time, you may need to either swap the batteries or invest in new solar lights."

Overall solar lamps are still a great addition to a yard. But if you're hoping to solely rely on solar lighting in your space, it's best to invest in quality lighting systems and place them in areas where they will receive as much sunlight as possible throughout the day.

Where Can You Put Solar Lamps?

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The pros have already established the importance of placing your solar lamps in areas with good natural levels of sunlight, so if any of the below suggestions also happen to be somewhere where your lamps would receive enough sun they would make a great choice!

• Along a pathway: Mirela suggests, "I like solar lights placed along a path or steps, low and repeated. They're practical and they draw the eye through the garden."
• In spaces between foliage where sunlight still charges your lamps from above: Mirela says, "I also like them clustered at ground level among planting, so the light comes up through the leaves."
• In areas of your yard you may need to access during a powercut, such as a shed: Angelika says, "Solar lamps are great in case of power outages since you do not have to rely on the main power supply."

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The urge to tidy an overgrown shrub in August is understandable. Quite a few of our favorites can look decidedly shaggy at the business end of summer. If you’ve found yourself standing in the yard on a warm August afternoon, shears in hand, eyeing a sprawling shrub that looks like it’s taking over, I’m with you. It feels like responsible gardening to clean things up before the fall. Unfortunately, if you pick the wrong plant, this seemingly good deed could cause serious damage.

As certain plants begin shifting energy from foliage expansion to root storage and bud differentiation, making major cuts now acts as a real shock to the system. It can force a plant to waste precious energy reserves attempting to heal cuts and push out unseasonal tender shoots. In some cases, flower buds that might have started forming might be taken off with the clippings. In other cases, the cut wakes growth that has no time to harden before cold arrives. Timing is often what separates good pruning from a costly mistake. Fortunately, this guide can help before it’s too late.

In some cases, the best thing you can do is put those pruning shears to one side. That doesn’t mean you have to ignore your plants completely. There are a few other easy wins that can keep key garden favorites at their best – without having to resort to careless chopping. By stepping back and focusing on gentle root care and protective soil amendments instead of hacking away at branches, you set these key plants up for an explosion of blooms and growth next spring…

Don't Prune These Plants in August

Two separate problems are at work in late summer. Spring bloomers set next year's flower buds within weeks of finishing, so the wood that looks like surplus is already carrying the show. The other problem is timing against frost. A cut stimulates growth, and any growth pushed in August can stay soft well into fall. That soft tissue will then be the first thing to die when temperatures start to drop.

Understanding your hardiness zone is critical when evaluating late-summer cuts. In cooler climates (zones 3-6), an unexpected early September frost might easily kill off any fresh green stems stimulated by late August pruning, opening wounds that invite stem dieback, fungal spores, and overwintering pests. Meanwhile, in warmer regions (zones 7-9), high late-summer sun can scorch freshly exposed interior leaves that were previously shaded by outer branches.

(Image credit: Alfexe / Getty Images)

August is a time for targeted checks rather than indiscriminate cuts. Check soil compaction, evaluate moisture levels, and gently remove diseased or broken stems that invite rot. Dead or damaged wood is always fine to remove, and in some cases it is OK to deadhead, if you restrict your cuts to those specific dead stems. Use sharp snips for deadheading, like the highly rated Fiskars Micro-Tip Snips from Amazon, and use rubbing alcohol to keep these minor cuts clean.

Water and mulch do more for an overgrown shrub right now than shears would. A deep watering reaches roots that a sprinkler just doesn’t do as well. Check drainage while the hose is out, since a shrub sitting in a soggy spot has a bigger problem than shape. If you’re not sure, you can test soil moisture using the excellent Expert Gardener Digital Soil Meter from Walmart, which also checks soil pH and light. But make a note of these plants in particular when you are preparing for snipping…

1. Lilac

(Image credit: ICHAUVEL / Getty Images)

Lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) set next spring's buds within about 6 weeks of finishing this year’s bloom, which puts bud formation squarely in early summer. Anything cut now is next May's flowers going into the yard waste bag. The plant itself survives the mistake without any trouble. The loss is entirely floral, but it’s a big loss and it lasts a full year. So while lilac bushes may often look tired, dusty, or afflicted with powdery mildew, resist the urge to hack them back.

If powdery mildew is making your lilac foliage look white and chalky, there is a safe alternative. Treat the leaves with a gentle biological fungicide instead. Spray leaf surfaces with a little Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Biological Concentrate from Walmart to safely eliminate late-summer powdery mildew. The only cuts that are recommended involve suckers. If you see any of these around the base, these can come out, since they carry nothing worth keeping.

2. Bigleaf Hydrangeas

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Old-wood bloomers are unforgiving about mistimed pruning. Bigleaf or mophead hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) carry next summer's flower buds on stems that grew this year. Those buds form in late summer (the exact weeks when your bigleaf can look messiest). So cutting those faded heads off this month will take those vital buds with them. Even reblooming varieties like the Endless Summer Series perform far better when late-summer stems are left intact.

Leave the dried, papery flowers standing through winter. They give a little shelter to the sensitive terminal buds sitting just below, and protect them from winter ice and biting winds. Spring is soon enough to snap these heads off above the first fat pair. August care for bigleaf hydrangeas is simple: keep soil deeply hydrated during dry spells. You can also add a very gentle seaweed tonic, diluted to quarter-strength. If you are on a tight budget, try Bloom City’s Organic Liquid Seaweed and Kelp Fertilizer from Walmart to build root strength without forcing weak foliage.

3. Azaleas and Rhododendrons

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Bud set happens over summer for these two big bloomers, too. Azaleas and rhododendrons finished flowering in spring and spent the following weeks building next year's trusses. By August, embryonic flower clusters are fully formed at the branch tips of azaleas and rhodies, looking like fat green pinecones. Shearing now will tragically remove those future bloomathons before they ever get a chance.

Late summer cuts on these broadleaf evergreens will also encourage soft growth. This will scorch over winter, turning brown and crispy by February. So instead of cutting back any leggy branches, apply a 3-inch (8cm) layer of mulch to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. This can be pine needles or bark mulch, or a commercial organic blend. I like Vigoro Premium Brown Wood Shredded Mulch from The Home Depot, which helps to protect shallow roots from drying winds.

4. Blueberries

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Fruit buds can form later in summer than you might expect. Blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) begin converting vegetative buds into flower buds in August and keep at it into October. So pruning now can remove the fat, rounded buds that hold next year's berry harvest, killing a future crop before it even exists. Healthy foliage matters through this same stretch, since bud formation runs on what leaves produce.

Pruning belongs in the dormant season, January through early March. At this late summer stage, it’s best to just remove any protective bird netting from your plant once harvest concludes. You can also sprinkle a little blueberry-friendly Dr Earth Organic Acid Lover's Fertilizer from Lowe’s around the base. This highly respected organic blend helps to maintain acidic soil conditions needed for fruit formation.

5. Camellias

(Image credit: Christopher Wills / 500px / Getty Images)

This one is easy to avoid once you’ve looked closely. Camellias (C. japonica) set their flower buds through summer for a winter or early spring show. The plump buds already sitting along the stems are exactly what the shears would take. Beyond removing a dead branch in August, everything else can wait. A camellia left alone for a year rarely looks worse for the neglect. C. sasanqua types will flower from autumn to winter, which shifts their pruning window rather than removing it.

Instead of pruning now, focus on consistent, deep moisture during dry summer spells to prevent premature bud drop. This is a common issue where plump flower buds fall off unopened due to water stress. To help keep things nourished, you can add a little aged compost or an organic feed. For a reliable organic boost, topdress with Espoma Organic Chicken Manure Granules from Walmart for a slow-release boost. Along with regular watering in dry spells, this is all that’s needed in summer.

6. Forsythia

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Forsythia (F. × intermedia) is heavily associated with spring, as its profusion of golden yellow petals on its arching branches signals the start of spring before leaves even emerge. At that point, its magnificent display is blooming on the previous season's stems. So a summer chop is a pruning mistake that trades next March's flowers for a tidier August. Given how little else flowers then, this is a terrible trade.

Shearing a forsythia in late summer destroys its fountain-like silhouette and eliminates spring color. The best time to cut back hard is right after bloom in April. Alternatively, take a third of the oldest canes to the ground each spring. It’s best not to disturb this tree in August, though you can add a light surface mulch with an organic compost. SunGro Black Gold Organic Compost from Walmart is a nice option for nurturing roots ahead of next year’s burst of gold!

7. Boxwood and Holly

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Because gardeners love keeping these evergreens in tight, manicured shapes, the temptation to shear off stray shoots in August is high. But shearing boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) or holly (Ilex) in August pushes a flush of tender growth into shortening days. That growth will not harden in time. Pruning boxwood in August carries another risk, since fresh cuts and damp foliage suit boxwood blight.

For hollies, August pruning can also remove developing red berries which provide winter color and bird food. Anything that constitutes shaggy growth now is better tidied next spring than pushed into a losing race with frost. Restrict any late summer removals to gentle, selective hand-snapping of stray dead twigs. It’s also OK to give hollies a gentle, slow-release feed. You can get an 8lb bag of Espoma Holly-tone Fertilizer from Lowe’s, which compares favorably in price to other retailers.

8. Roses

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Whether you grow classic hybrid teas, sprawling climbers, or tough shrub roses, late August signals the time to transition your rose care routine from active growth to winter hardening. Removing spent petals just below the flower head is fine in early August, but major cane shortening or structural pruning must cease. Cutting roses back now tells the plant to grow, and the ensuing canes would still be soft when the first freeze arrives. Frozen canes die back, sometimes taking healthy wood, too.

The best thing to do is to let the plant wind down on its own schedule. Leaving the last flowers to form hips helps that along, since hip development is one of the cues a rose uses to wind down, encouraging the plant to harden its bark and store sugars. Climber owners should hold their structural pruning for winter dormancy as well. It’s fine to give roses a final balanced liquid or slow-release feed this month. A diluted drench with TPS Rose Fertilizer from Amazon is great for maintaining sturdy stems.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Whimsical flowers that seem to hover above your garden beds and add beautiful pops of color? Sign me up! Agapanthus flowers are so visually striking, I still remember the first time I saw one. Also called "African Lily" or “Lily of the Nile,” agapanthus stand tall and add a unique charm to your landscape.

Their gorgeous, yet underrated flowers are replacing alliums as our favorite pick for tall, eye-catching ornamentals. And it’s no wonder! Agapanthus are easy going, long-flowering additions to any garden. But August and its heat can challenge even the hardiest plants.

Let’s dig in and see how to best care for your magical agapanthus flowers in August. It’s as easy as 1-2-3.

1. Guard Against Heat Waves

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Hot, dry weather in August can lead to parched plants and prematurely wilted flowers. Agapanthus like loamy, well-draining soil but they still need moisture! Water your plants when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. You can either stick your finger in the ground or container to check or use a long soil moisture meter from Amazon to check moisture with ease.

Pay special attention to agapanthus in pots or containers. Gardeners in cooler regions of the country often grow agapanthus in containers so they can be winterized easily. But container-grown plants dry out more quickly than those in the ground. Keep a close eye on your potted flowers to prevent a sudden, drought-induced wilt.

2. Prepare Next Year's Blooms

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Deadheading spent flowers on your agapanthus means the plant’s precious energy will go towards building deep, strong roots instead of producing seeds. Snip off wilted blooms with a pair of clean, sharp pruners (our editors like to keep their tools sharp with this Corona sharpener from Amazon). Deadheading will also keep the plants looking tidy.

However, if you are interested in expanding your garden and growing new agapanthus plants next spring, you can harvest seeds and plant them. Wait until the seed heads are dry, brown and beginning to split open to harvest them. Gently shake the seeds out of their pods and sow them right away, or save them for planting in late winter. I love to use this ARTDOT storage system from Amazon to organize all my seeds after harvest.

3. Feed Wisely

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August is the last time you should be fertilizing your agapanthus. A balanced fertilizer will help replenish nutrients and provide energy for the last flowers of the season while also getting the roots ready for the winter ahead. You don’t want them to go to bed on an empty stomach! Espoma Flower-Tone fertilizer from Amazon is a good, organic fertilizer that is gentle and will promote blooms and plant health.

Feeding too late in the season will encourage your plant to push out new growth that will still be tender and vulnerable when the cold snaps begin. It is hard to imagine being cold right now, but we are rapidly losing sunlight and will be heading into sweater weather before you know it! You can learn your average first frost date by entering your ZIP code into the tool at the Old Farmer's Almanac website.

A little time and care for agapanthus plants in August will set them up for the rest of the warm season and also help them stay healthy over the winter. Extra attention spent on water, deadheading and feeding will give you the best blooms yet!

The bottom of a tomato goes tan, then dark, then flat and leathery. It looks like something contagious tearing through the plant. Blossom end rot is not a disease at all. No fungus or bacterium started it – the plant just could not move enough calcium into that tomato while its cell walls were going up.

Anyone who has spent a season or two growing tomatoes might know the pattern, since the first flush tends to take the worst of it. What matters now is the crop already hanging out there. Some of it is worth saving. Some of it is costing the plant energy for nothing.

What Is Blossom End Rot?

Blossom end rot isn't a disease. It's actually a lack of calcium. Calcium builds the glue holding cell walls together. It travels one direction only – up from the roots through the xylem, riding along with water. Soil moisture that swings from soaked to bone dry and back again stalls the delivery. Farthest from the stem, the blossom end is where it runs out. Cells there collapse, the tissue dries into a dark leathery patch, and the scar stays for the life of the tomato. Peppers and squash do the same thing under the same conditions, a decent clue that no pathogen is involved.

Most garden soil already holds plenty of calcium. The popular fixes miss for exactly that reason. Foliar sprays cannot deliver it. Calcium sitting in a leaf has no route into a tomato, and the skin will not take it in from outside. Then there is Epsom salt. It's made of magnesium sulfate and has no calcium in it whatsoever. In fact, the extra magnesium competes for uptake at the root. Don't try it!

Calcium nitrate applied around the drip line is a good bet. You can find it on Amazon. This is best for preventing blossom end rot in future fruit.

Toss It

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Some tomatoes with blossom end rot are a lost cause.

A green tomato with a sunken black patch across the bottom third is finished – dead tissue stays dead. It will never fill out or ripen evenly. The plant goes on pouring sugars and water into it regardless. Pulling those off frees all of that up for what is still coming. Think of it as triage rather than loss.

Take them at the stem with a snip or a clean twist. They can go on the compost pile without a second thought, since nothing infectious is involved. The only reason to bin the mushy ones is that secondary mold has usually moved into the open tissue by then. That mold is a squatter, not the cause. Either way, the plant is better off without them.

Pick It

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A tomato that has started coloring up with only a small dry patch underneath is a different case entirely. The lesion stays where it is. Damage at the blossom end does not creep up to the shoulders, whatever it looks like from below. Everything above the patch is normal in every way that counts. Half a tomato is still a tomato.

Bring those in a couple of days early and let them ripen on the counter, out of direct sun, because sitting on the vine only gives the soft spot more time to work outward.

Cut generously, an inch (2.5cm) past the dark edge. The rest slices, cooks, or freezes like any other tomato. There is no toxin here and nothing to catch. Canning is the one real exception – damage of this kind can push pH higher than clean fruit runs, and extension guidance keeps it out of the canner for that reason. Fruit ripened off the vine also runs slightly less acidic, one more reason the canner is the wrong destination for these. Fresh use and freezing carry no such worry.

Leave It on the Vine

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Undamaged fruit stays put. The fix from here is water rather than anything sold in a bottle. Aim for a deep soaking that wets the whole root zone, on a schedule the plant can count on. An inch (2.5cm) a week covers most gardens, and a hot stretch takes more. Guessing is where this falls apart – a soil moisture meter from Amazon pushed 4 inches (10cm) down settles it faster than a finger test. On the weeks that get away from you, an inexpensive hose timer from Walmart keeps the schedule from slipping. Containers dry out fastest, so they need checking more often than a bed does.

Mulch handles the other half. Two to three inches (5-8cm) of pine bark mulch from Home Depot over the root zone slows evaporation. It also steadies the soil between waterings. A hoe worked in close does the opposite, since chopped roots cannot take up water they never reach. High-nitrogen feed can wait until the plant has recovered. Anything already half grown is past the window where this happens, so it will stay clean.

New tomatoes sitting on a plant with steady water usually come in perfect. That is the reward for treating the cause instead of the symptom.

Whether you use a tow-tastic lawn tractor or a precision-cutting zero turn mower, all of the best riding lawn mowers require ongoing maintenance in order to function as they should.

There are several routine maintenance tasks that every riding mower owner should do regularly, including fuel refills, condition checks, and cleaning. You’ll also need to keep on top of occasional measures such as replacing worn-out parts and blade sharpening, as required.

In this guide, I’ll take you through five of the most important riding lawn mower maintenance tasks that will ensure your riding mower stays works safely and mows as well as it should. To guarantee the quality of advice provided, I interviewed two lawn care experts – Lowe’s Store Manager, Brian Shaunfield, and lawn care expert, Jimmy The Mower – who have kindly shared the guidance below.

“Regular maintenance is essential in keeping your riding mower running reliably,” says Lowe’s Store Manager, Brian Shaunfield.

“A riding lawn mower should receive a full tune-up at least once a year – every 100 hours of use is a good rule of thumb. While some basic maintenance may seem trivial in the short term, long-term damage can build up and prevent your machine from functioning. Lawn mower engines are surprisingly precise and require specific parts, oil, and upkeep,” he says.

(Image credit: Olga Rolenko / Getty Images)Riding Mower Maintenance Basics

1. Check condition before mowing
2. Clean the mowing deck
3. Maintain the power source
4. Lubricate moving parts
5. Replace or maintain worn-out components

What You Will Need

• Stiff-bristled brush (like these wire brushes from Amazon)
• Large cleaning cloth or towel
• File (like this 8'' Flat Hand Metal File on Amazon)
• Blade stop
• Mower jack (where required)
• Mechanical lubricant (like this grease from WD-40 on Amazon)
• Gasoline or diesel (where applicable)
• Leaf blower (optional)
• Work gloves

How to Maintain a Riding Lawn Mower

With their powerful drive systems and mowing components, riding lawn mowers far exceed the maintenance requirements of a cordless lawn mower.

If you plan on purchasing one of these highly capable lawn care tools, you should be mindful that ongoing maintenance will be essential to its long-term performance and safe usage. At the very least, you'll need to carry out all the maintenance steps below – and you'll almost certainly need some professional help along the way.

1. Check the condition before each use.

(Image credit: Fertnig / Getty Images)

Good riding mower maintenance begins before you even start the mower for the first cut of the year, as you’ll need to check its condition to ensure it can mow safely.

“Whenever you use the mower, walk around it in your garage or shed and do a visual check,” says lawn care expert, Jimmy The Mower.

“Make sure that the tires are fully inflated, and there are no signs of damage, leaks, or drips. And if you’re an occasional, domestic user, double check the oil level – and the water level, if the mower has a water-cooled engine,” he adds.

If the oil or water level looks too low, top up the relevant fluid before you mow your lawn.

“It’s also crucial to make sure all shields and deflectors are in place and undamaged, and make sure the tires are inflated and the brakes are working properly,” says Shaunfield.

“Plus, before you start mowing, move the machine to an outside area before running the engine. Avoid enclosed areas, like a garage, even if the doors and windows are open, because running an engine indoors can produce harmful fumes.”

How often: Before every mow

2. Clean the mowing deck.

(Image credit: photovs / Getty Images)

Every time you use your riding mower, you can bet your bottom dollar grass clippings and other natural debris will accumulate on some of its components – especially in the mowing deck, which houses the blade(s).

If left unattended, this detritus can be a problem, as it may cause parts of the riding mower to rust and fail.

“The most important thing is cleaning the mowing deck after every use, because grass sticks to this easily, and the moisture it carries can very quickly cause rotting and lead to rust,” says Jimmy The Mower.

To clean your riding mower’s mowing deck, you’ll first need to access the deck, which may be difficult. With some models, you can remove the deck (which will be heavy) and upend it, allowing easy access for cleaning with a stiff-bristled brush (and a hose for rinsing, if necessary). Remember to dry the mowing deck very thoroughly using a large cloth or towel when you’re done cleaning.

If you can’t access the underside of the mowing deck by removing the component, you might need to use a mower jack (like this model for $629.99 from Lowe’s) to safely lift the entire mower, taking all appropriate safety precautions.

Other riding mower parts that require very careful cleaning include grass collectors and mulching accessories.

How often: After every use

3. Maintain the power source.

You’ll need to continually maintain the power source of your riding mower, whether it runs off gasoline or a less commonly used fuel such as diesel or even rechargeable batteries, like this electric lawn tractor our experts tested.

On a regular basis – perhaps once weekly or once per use – replenish the mower’s power source. That could mean adding more gas or diesel via the relevant inlet or it could mean recharging batteries using your household electricity.

Annually, between the end of one mowing season and the start of the next, you’ll also need to take special steps to ensure the power source is ready to use again.

“Every year, a gas riding mower will need professional engine servicing, new filters, an oil change and spark plug replacement,” says Jimmy The Mower.

“If you have a cordless electric riding mower, make sure the battery stays topped up over winter. Remember to keep batteries somewhere warmer than the shed or garage during very cold weather,” he says.

How often: Weekly and annually

4. Lubricate any moving parts.

(Image credit: BanksPhotos / Getty Images)

Keeping mower parts lubricated will encourage smooth operation and minimizes overall levels of wear and damage.

“Any moving parts need to be well lubricated so they don’t seize up and fail, so grease them regularly,” says Jimmy The Mower

Many of the mower parts that require lubrication the most are fitted with grease nipples, which you can use to direct lubricant to the right places. Look for these entry points on bearings, mowing deck spindles, and the steering and axle assemblies.

How often: Frequently (weekly, or at least once per month)

5. Replace or maintain worn-out parts.

(Image credit: Phu Min / Getty Images)

The lifespan of a riding lawn mower is likely to be at least 4-5 years or 400-500 hours of mowing. Some models can last much longer. In order to get the most out of your mower during its lifespan, you’ll need to replace or maintain certain components as they wear out, like replacing a lawn mower carburetor.

“If you have the right DIY skills and are familiar with machinery, you may be able to switch out a part yourself,” says Shaunfield. “For instance, changing the air filter, spark plug, or changing the oil are occasional maintenance tasks that come with a mower.”

Another key task that many riding mower owners carry out for themselves is sharpening the mower blade. You can do this using a blade stop (like this one for $14.88 from Walmart) and hand file, provided it’s possible to safely access the underside of the mowing deck.

Replacement parts for your model of mower should be purchasable via the manufacturer.

How often: as required

Frequently Asked QuestionsAre some riding mowers more complicated to maintain than others?

There’s a lot of variety in the riding mower market and, as a result, one model may have very different maintenance needs compared to another.

A key point of difference is the fuel source used to power the mower. Gas or diesel riding mowers are powered by a combustion engine, which will have various components that require servicing, including a carburetor, spark plug and air filter.

This makes gas riding mowers more complicated to maintain than a cordless electric riding mower – although lithium-ion batteries come with their own demands, including regular charging, occasional replacement, and proper handling to extend the life of your lawn mower battery.

Whichever riding mower you’ve purchased, you should have received a comprehensive instruction manual with the product. If you’re ever unsure how to maintain the mower, refer to the manufacturer’s guidance.

Which riding mower maintenance tasks require professional attention?  

Riding mowers often appeal to folks who have some amount of mechanical knowledge or enthusiasm for vehicle maintenance. If that sounds like you, then you might feel comfortable handling most of the issues that arise in your riding model.

However, there are certain riding mower maintenance tasks that will usually require input from a specialist mechanic or engineer. These issues might include problems with the hydraulics system on a zero-turn lawn mower, failure to start with an undiagnosed cause, and replacing faulty or damaged internal components.

Do towed riding mower attachments require maintenance? 

If you have a riding lawn tractor, there’s a pretty good chance you have some riding lawn mower attachments to go with it.

From dethatchers and scarifiers to spreaders and carts, all types of riding mower attachment should be diligently maintained, as this will help preserve both the attachment and the mower.

“Maintenance of riding mower attachments is paramount,” says Jimmy The Mower. “You might use these items only a handful of times per year, so make sure they’re clean and dry before storing to prevent rust. A light coating of oil would be a welcome addition, too.”

“Make sure the parts of your mower attachment are moving freely before attaching, because the mower’s drive system can seize up if the attachment doesn’t move,” he adds.

If there’s one thing many of us want more of in our gardens, it’s birds. And with summer heat making access to fresh water particularly important, bird baths have become a popular way to give our feathered visitors somewhere to drink, cool off and bathe... and marinade, apparently.

Yes, a new TikTok trend is encouraging people to add herbs and leaves to their bird baths, with the idea that the extra greenery and texture provided by all of those fragrant herbs will make the water all that more enticing to visiting birds.

On paper, it sounds like a dreamy idea: floating leaves add movement and visual interest to an otherwise rather boring bowl of water, and some people think that all of the rosemary and mint and the like will make the bird bath feel more natural, not to mention give birds something to peck and explore. But does it really work?

Should You Add Herbs To Your Bird Bath?

Look, I wanted to believe that adding herbs to my bird bath would prove a wonderful little treat for all my feathered pals, because I love birds. I know my birth month bird, I’ve spent far too much time researching what the birds I see most often in my garden supposedly say about me, I know exactly what the first bird I see each morning means for the day ahead, and I spend a frankly obscene amount of money on suet.

Basically, I am that person who leaves seed heads standing rather than cutting them back because I know the birds will make use of them. So, yes, when I started seeing herbs floating around in bird baths on TikTok, my first thought was that it looked a brilliant idea. Still, I couldn’t shake the feeling that putting anything other than clean water into a bird bath might be doing more harm than good.

So I asked someone who knows considerably more about birds than I do.

(Image credit: Roberto Machado Noa / Getty Images)

Denys Hemen, Operations and Facility Manager at the Audubon Center at Debs Park, says that adding herbs to your bird bath is just a bad idea all round.

“First of all, some herbs contain oils,” Denys explains, pointing out that, if those oils are released into the water and a bird then gets into the bath, there is a high likelihood of feather contamination.

Most birds’ feathers interlock with one another “almost like a zipper”, he adds, creating a waterproof protective layer around the body. When oil contaminates the feathers, it can interfere with that interlocking structure, allowing water to penetrate through to the bird’s skin. This can cause hypothermia.

Bird Bath Essentials:

Best Choice Products Solar Outdoor Bird Bath

This pretty bird bath doubles up as solar lighting for your garden.

Qunler Qunler Solar Fountain

This solar fountain is a great addition to any bird bath.

Mellbree Bird Bath Copper Disc

Copper naturally keeps water in a bird bath cleaner for longer.

There’s another problem, too: contaminated feathers can affect a bird’s ability to fly. Oil can weigh the feathers down, making it harder for a bird to get lift. More seriously, Denys says, contamination can damage the interlocking feature of wing feathers to the point where a bird may be unable to fly at all.

If that weren't enough reason to stop adding herbs to bird baths, he adds that leaving leaves sitting in water can cause them to wilt and rot, creating dirty (and stinky) water that can itself become a feather contaminant. Which is, yes, a fairly compelling reason to resist the urge to turn your bird bath into a tiny botanical pond.

(Image credit: Robert Brown / Getty Images)

If you want to attract more birds, the good news is that you don’t need to get particularly creative. According to Denys, the priority should simply be clean water. “Bird baths should be cleaned, rinsed and sanitized every few days and, if possible, left to dry between uses,” he says.

You can also make a bird bath more appealing, Denys notes, by placing it somewhere birds feel safe and where they have a clear view of their surroundings. And if you really want to add a little movement, a small solar-powered fountain like this one can help catch birds’ attention without putting anything extra into the water.

I know, I know; a handful of rosemary, a sprinkling of basil or a carefully curated collection of floating leaves sounds far more exciting an addition to a bird bath than plain old clean water. But if it keeps our garden birds safe, I’ll take boring every single time.

This heatwave summer is proving tough for lots of plants, even those widely touted as heat- and drought-tolerant perennials. These five beauties, however, are flourishing in the intense conditions, and I’ll be planting plenty more.

I’m a huge fan of growing low-maintenance plants in my garden, whether that’s border blooms that practically grow themselves or low-care perennials that love life in a patio pot. Still, the lack of rain and high temperatures this summer has made some plants far needier than usual – and no wonder. My garden hasn’t seen a drop of water for over 2 months now, and I’m three weeks into a complete hosepipe ban. Some usually reliable border bloomers stopped flowering weeks ago; some are even threatening to give up the ghost entirely.

Other plants, however are behaving just as they would in any summer, as if they never received the heatwave memo. A few are performing even better than normal. And honestly, it's such a relief to know that these resilient plants will survive this heatwave summer and return, year and year, bringing plenty of flowers for minimal maintenance. In my quest to have a garden that almost takes care of itself, I'm seriously considering replacing those divas that are proving increasingly needy in this hot weather – I'm looking at you, hydrangeas – with more of these tough-cookie, heat-tolerant plants. So without further ado, here are my heatwave heroes.

1. Agapanthus

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Earning top spot in my list of resilient plants coping with this intense summer heat is agapanthus, also commonly called lily of the Nile and African lily. I grow these in pots and along the edges of raised beds as they bloom far more profusely in a constricted space, prioritising flowers over foliage. And boy, are they blooming well this summer! The first glimpse of the pretty blue buds was way back in June and they’re still going strong in August.

Native to South Africa, it’s no wonder these perennials are thriving in this heatwave summer. Hardy down to zone 8, you can get away with growing agapanthus in zones 6 and 7, too, as long as you pop them in a pot that you move to a sheltered spot over winter. In the south, you can grow lily of the Nile as showstopper flowering groundcover, too, as the foliage is largely evergreen.

Whether in pots, raised beds or the ground, agapanthus needs excellent drainage, so I mix a few handfuls of coarse grit such as Jacks Gritty Mix, available from Walmart, into the potting soil. Any coarse sand or fine gravel does the same job, or pick up a bag of poultry sand such as this Premium Chicken Sand from Home Depot from a farm supply store.

Now’s a great time to buy lily of the Nile as you can get the plant well-established in its new home, ready for plenty of blooms next summer, and blue agapanthus plants are available from Nature Hills. As we’re approaching the end of its blooming season in August, you’ll often find some great deals on multi-packs of young plants to grow on and Walmart currently has value packs of Blue Agapanthus plants. And why not mix some white in among the blue with this value pack of Getty White Agapanthus, also from Walmart?

2. Gaura

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Next up in my top five of low maintenance perennials is gaura. Thanks to their long tap roots, my gaura plants are showing no signs of struggling in this heatwave summer. I mostly grow ‘Whirling Butterflies’, available from Garden Goods Direct, as it’s a sterile variety, which means it doesn’t produce viable seeds so doesn’t need deadheading – and flowers all the way from June into November. Its white flowers are fairly small but there are hundreds of them on 3-foot wiry stems that sway in the slightest breeze, and the pretty pink buds add to the show.

There are plenty of other varieties of this perennial to choose from, ranging from white to deep pink, and all have the same airy habit and are suitable for zones 5–9. ‘Siskiyou Pink’ is another favorite variety because it’s also sterile for summer-long blooming. Gaura ‘Siskiyou Pink’ plants are also available from Garden Goods Direct.

Gaura has recently been reclassified as Oenothera, in case you’re confused by all the different names out there!

3. English Shrub Rose

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I’ve been happily surprised how well my reblooming English Shrub roses have coped with the heat and drought this year. While older varieties of roses are starting to struggle, the newer reblooming hybrids are still flowering strongly and I haven’t seen a scorched leaf yet. As far as easy to grow plants go, my shrub roses are proving to be winners.

In particular, Desdemona, an English shrub rose available from David Austin Roses, seems invincible this year – and I can see why David Austin sells this plant with a five year guarantee. It’s deemed suitable for zones 5 through 11, which gives you an idea of how well it copes with heat. It’s one of the strongest survivors in a border I haven’t watered for over two years now and still, every week, new peach-toned buds are opening into white chalice-shaped blooms with just a hint of blush pink, with a sweet yet fresh scent of almond blossom and lemon zest.

Many modern shrub roses are now purposefully bred to better handle sun and drought, with breeders introducing the resilience of wild roses native to dry regions to toughen up genetics. So, if your older roses are struggling this summer, perhaps it’s time to look to newer hybrids with a higher tolerance. It’s best to wait till September to plant a rose, but it would be wise to pre-order now, for shipment next month, as I’ll wager lots of folk will be planting more of these newer drought-tolerant roses having seen how well they’ve performed this summer.

4. Echinacea

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Echinacea are very good at finding their own moisture source so are a great choice for a low maintenance garden. Some species send a taproot up to five feet down into the ground, others spread a fibrous root system outwards instead. This explains why echinacea growing in pots are struggling in many gardens this heatwave summer, while those in the ground are thriving.

I grow a ton of perennial Echinacea pallida (pale purple cornflower) which is native to North America, found in tallgrass prairies, so is naturally highly drought tolerant. In fact, it’s pretty tolerant of anything and everything, so is suitable for zones 3-10. While its narrow petals do get a little crispy at the tips after a few weeks, my plants keep throwing up fresh blooms. Pollinators choose this variety over all the other coneflowers in my garden, so I’ll be planting even more – and Echinacea pallida plants are available from Plant Addicts.

Another coneflower renowned for its toughness is Echinacea ‘Cheyenne Spirit’. This gem grows abundant flowers in mixed colors, from white and cream through yellow, orange and red to pink and purple. It grows well in zones 4-9 and Echinacea 'Cheyenne Spirit' plants are available from Fast Growing Trees. It can be planted now, though you’ll need to keep it watered while the plant settles into its new home and grows that mega root system to secure its own moisture source.

5. Scabiosa

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All my perennial Scabiosa plants are performing brilliantly this summer, and I grow at least 10 different varieties because their pinchusion flowers are such a favorite with bees and butterflies. Their only downside is that you do need to deadhead them – but bother to keep snipping off those fading blooms and scabious will keep flowering to the first frost. I use a little $10 thumb knife like this Silicone Thumb Harvesting Tool from Amazon to deadhead them one-handed as I enjoy my morning cup of coffee in the garden, so it really isn’t a chore.

If you were to ask all the bees and butterflies in my garden what their number one Scabiosa is, they’d undoubtedly choose Butterfly Blue. Suitable for zones 3-9, it’s smothered in 2-inch lavender-blue flowers all summer long, even in this heat, and Butterfly Blue Scabious plants are available from Burpee. I’ve found Fama White to be even more heat-tolerant this summer, though. These gloriously elegant flowers are bigger at 3 inches across, thrive in zones 4-10, and Fama White Scabiosa plants are also available from Burpee. Both these varieties are perennial so will be back year after year (there are annual scabious varieties, too, that complete their lifecycle in a year).

You can plant perennial Scabiosa now, but you’ll need to keep them watered while they settle in, though should be pretty drought-tolerant by next summer.

Here are all the most resilient plants in my garden, happily surviving where others are failing, and still flowering abundantly in August.

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There’s no telling how long this heatwave weather will last for so, if you’re a slave to your hosepipe, perhaps it’s time to think about replacing some of your neediest plants with more drought resistant perennials, too.

Fall-blooming perennials and cool-season crops may top your garden list for August. But don’t ignore another easygoing plant that is sure to add focus and fluidity to your autumn garden: container-grown ornamental grasses. These grass varieties come in all sizes and many shades, bringing texture, graceful movement, and welcome height to fall displays.

When late summer heat has often burned out tired annuals, these low maintenance ornamental grasses are the ultimate architectural rescue squad, and they set you up beautifully for the season ahead. By filling mid-summer border gaps now, you aren't just adding static green filler. You are introducing dynamic movement, rustling soundscapes, and winter-long silhouettes that stay stunning straight through frost.

And here’s the best news. When you plant ornamental grasses, you bring lovely additions to your yard that require surprisingly little maintenance. Most are resilient, low-maintenance ornamental grasses that won’t demand constant attention: no mowing, limited irrigation, and only occasional pruning. For time-strapped gardeners, they are the definition of low-effort landscaping that gives you exceptional reward.

Great Grasses to Plant in August

Planting container-grown ornamental grass in August is a win-win endeavor. The grass is happy to find its roots in warm soil, while you’ll get ornamental grass that offers many years of color in the landscape. While air temperatures begin their subtle late-summer dip, the soil remains warm for weeks. This encourages container-grown grasses to establish massive root networks in half the time it takes during spring.

Of course, August can look different in different planting zones. If you live in an area that experiences heatwaves or severe heat in late summer, you may do better postponing the transplanting until the weather breaks. However, if the heat isn’t extreme, the transplants will survive as long as they get sufficient water. Check your soil’s water levels prior to planting with the excellent Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon, which also checks for light and soil pH levels as well as nutrient load.

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Planting these grasses in heavy clay is a recipe for crown rot. Add some well-rotted compost to break up compaction and ensure good drainage. To give late-summer transplants a head start without burning tender new roots, top-dress your soil with a sprinkle of Espoma Organic Bio-Tone Starter Plus from Home Depot. Packed with beneficial mycorrhizae, it accelerates root development in warm soil.

Don’t forget to water the transplants well and often during the hottest parts of August. If your area experiences extreme heat after you plant, provide them with temporary afternoon shade to prevent severe transplant shock. If you are planting in containers, opt for heavy terracotta pots with large drainage holes. Avoid heavy nitrogen fertilizers and focus on root hydration and soil conditioning.

1. Fountain Grass

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Fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) is a joy to behold. Hardy in zones 5-9, it offers soft plumes that resemble bottlebrush and arch gracefully over mounds of burgundy leaves. Fountain grass really hits its stride from late August through November, when its bristly inflorescences catch the low golden hour light. For a lush smoky purple grass that also flourishes in containers, try Red Head Fountain Grass Live Plants from Plant Addicts.

This grass needs a full sun location (at least 6 hours of direct sun daily) and well-drained soil, making it a low-maintenance choice for drought-tolerant spaces. It just requires some deep watering for the first few months after planting, then only occasional watering once established. Plant it alongside coarse-textured late bloomers such as black-eyed Susans (rudbeckia) or Autumn Joy sedum to accentuate its soft, plushy depths.

Plant Addicts Red Head Fountain Grass

2. Maiden Grass Morning Light

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Are you looking for a silver splash of texture? Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light') is beloved for its fine green leaves with thin white edges that effortlessly catch the light. The plant takes on a soft, shimmering silver look that slots easily into any space, but especially those devoted to classic styles as well as prairie plantings. For affordable texture that adds variegated tones, try Perennial Farm Marketplace’s Variegated Maiden Grass Morning Light from Amazon.

Maiden grass grows tall and can reach 9 feet (3m) tall in zones 4-9. Its feathery flower heads dance in the breeze from late summer well into winter. These transform from reddish-bronze in summer to fluffy moonlight white by fall. This grass just needs full sun and well-draining soil. Add a little Rosy Soil Biochar Booster from Walmart to improve nutrient holding capacity and water retention. Plant this dancing grass where it can be backlit by the sun to highlight its silvery edges.

Perennial Farm Marketplace Miscanthus Sinensis Morning Light

3. Blue Fescue Elijah Blue

(Image credit: Luri Gagarin / Getty Images)

Blue plant lovers will adore this hard-working ornamental. 'Elijah Blue' is the quintessential cool-season grass for sunny borders in zones 4-8. If you plant blue fescue (Festuca glauca) in August, just make sure you have healthy nursery stock with strong root balls, and provide some afternoon shade. Even temporary shade in hot days can make a big difference to this powder blue beauty. FlowersBulbs Blue Fescue Plants from Walmart is great for budget-lovers.

As well as working well in mass plantings, rockeries, and borders, this compact ornamental grass is a fine choice for smaller yard spaces. Its bright blue, spiky mounds only grow to 10 inches tall (25cm) and work well for edging and pathway planting. When transplanting container-grown plants, just make sure your soil has good drainage and don’t be afraid to add some coarse sand or grit. This plant’s blue hues look gorgeous alongside purple penstemons or deep red heuchera.

FlowersBulbs Blue Fescue Live Plants

4. Pink Muhly Grass

(Image credit: Shene / Getty Images)

Wispy pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris) is a stunning ornamental. It makes me think of clouds so powerfully that Joni Mitchell’s song Both Sides Now comes to mind when I look at it. Native to the eastern and central US (zones 6-9), it is arguably the most breathtaking autumn grass available and it reaches 3 feet (1m) tall. Starting in late August, it produces a shimmering, ethereal mist of plumes that last through November. You can currently buy Pink Muhly Grass Live Plants from Fast Growing Trees for a generous 30% discount with the checkout code.

With its striking cotton-candy hue and purple autumn flower plumes, this grass works well in groups or along pathways. Place it in your hottest, sunniest spot. It is fiercely drought-tolerant and heat-hardy once rooted. Just keep a close eye on soil moisture. You’ll want to irrigate deep and slow twice a week until the weather cools. Pair this grass with goldenrod (Solidago) or native purple coneflowers for a showstopping native display that will keep vibrating deep into fall.

Fast-Growing-Trees.com Pink Muhly Grass

5. Japanese Forest Grass Aureola

(Image credit: Molly Shannon Photography / Alamy)

If you’re looking for shade plants that can dazzle in the gloom, this shade-tolerant ornamental grass is perfect for August and fall planting. Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola') offers a compact shape and will liven up your landscape with its bright gold and green striped leaves and cascading waterfall habit. You can buy Aureola Golden Variegated Japanese Forest Grass from Plant Addicts for generous cascading color and structure in zones 5-9.

Choose a cool, shaded area under trees or next to a shady wall and make sure it is protected from the hot afternoon sun. Water it deeply at least once a week and put a thick mulch around the base, using coarse wood chippings or some shredded bark. Growing 18-20 inches (45-50cm) tall, its arching blades create a graceful, bamboo-like elegance that takes on reddish-pink blushes in cooler fall weather. Partner with large, lush hosta, ferns, and deep purple coral bells.

Proven Selections Aureola Golden Variegated Japanese Forest Grass

6. Mexican Feather Grass

(Image credit: Beekeepx / Getty Images)

With delicate leaves and fluffy flower heads, Mexican feather grasses (Nassella tenuissima) dance in the slightest breeze. Wherever you plant this graceful dancing silk, it brings a soft, natural look. Reaching 2 feet (.6m), these self-seeders are considered invasive in some areas, so check before you buy. Hardy in zones 7-10, Mexican feather grasses are easy to grow, love the sun, and tolerate partial shade. Buy Greenwood Nursery Mexican Feathergrass from Amazon if you’re a budget.

Its silvery-green flower heads ripen into soft golden blonde strands by fall. It thrives in lean, poor, sandy or rocky soils, where other plants might struggle. Add a little Soil Sunrise Perlite Mix from Walmart to toughen up damper soils. Pair this grass with drought-tolerant succulents, lavender, or salvia in Mediterranean-style layouts. For restricted regions, consider native blue grama grass as a safe alternative.

Greenwood Nursery Greenwood Nursery Mexican Feather Grass

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Sometimes the joy of garden bird encounters can feel like a bit of a waiting game. When I seek out birdlife in the backyard, it’s often the case that I can hear it more than see it. Hedges and shrubs might be quivering midsummer, with boisterous twitterings and enthusiastic grub-gobbling. Certain species are as lively as ever, and just as keen for a drink or a paddle. But just when you think you’ve spied a flash of color near the bird bath splash zone, the moment’s gone, and the wait continues…

Would it surprise you to hear that this waiting game is actually a critical part of the backyard birdlife dance? In fact, it’s so important for attracting birds, they need dedicated areas of the yard devoted to it. Does that sound ridiculous? Well, it really isn’t, at least, not to a bird. Our little feathered friends need special “observation decks” where they can sit, observe, and spy their chance for that perfect moment to approach your specially prepared bird bath and enjoy the facilities, as it were.

Fail to give them this perch, and the jig may well be up. Birds, like us, appreciate comfort and places to rest in summer. Think of it as your bird’s deck chair. Yet it’s amazing how often this waiting branch gets overlooked in our quest for the perfect bird bath. We obsess over the relative merits of pedestal versus platform versus hanging models – but how many of us give a minute’s thought to bespoke birdie branches? Frustrated bird bath owners, it’s high time we did. Here’s how to add one easily (and where to put it) to enjoy more bird bath action and save yourself some waiting…

What is a Waiting Branch?

To understand why a waiting branch is so important for your bird bath, it’s important to take the bird’s eye view on things. Yes, your birdie visitor may be parched and desperate for a refreshing dip. But an exposed basin planted firmly in the middle of a yard is risky business.

We might see an ornate basin with inviting water twinkling in the light. But such a setup puts a small songbird in a vulnerable position, even if they are craving a drink or a soak. A bird bath near a tree with strong horizontal branches, such as a serviceberry like Autumn Brilliance, which you can pick up on a budget from Walmart, is far superior to one in plain sight with zero nearby support or cover.

(Image credit: Hal Moran / Getty Images)

Birds are creatures of curiosity, but also caution. When spying a bird bath, a little tufted titmouse, finch, wren, or bluebird will rarely swoop straight in. Instead, they prefer to hop down through a leafy staircase of careful steps, taking their sweet time to size up the scene. A waiting branch is their trusted observation deck: a cozy spot to tilt their small heads, tune into the vibe, and make sure the coast is clear.

When approaching a bath, they’ll want to check water levels and assess for predators. On the way back, they need the same branches to shield and protect them as they shake off water droplets, preen, and get their feathers fully flight-ready again. If your bath stands isolated without any kind of landing pad, songbirds will move onto more sheltered bathing opportunities. Even if you don’t have room for a full-sized tree, some well-placed branches mounted nearby make a huge difference to a little bird in need of privacy and security.

Choose something 18-24 inches long (45-60cm) so multiple birds can queue in comfort. You can buy bundles of textured wood, like the Yoosountic Birch Branches from Amazon, with varying thicknesses to fit into a range of backyard fixtures like fence posts, deck spindles, or garden stakes. This one addition creates an idyllic poolside vibe for observing and preening, before and after bathing.

Pick your Perch

(Image credit: Getty Images)

You don't need a massive oak tree to give songbirds a 5-star observation deck. Waiting branches and staging perches come in all shapes and sizes, from living native flora to ornate, space-saving pieces. Here are a few bird-friendly options for poolside perching near the splash zone.

Native Staging Branch

Fast-growing-trees Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry Tree

If you want to go the natural route, this native US beauty creates perfect horizontal branching right at water level, offering built-in observation perches that make songbirds feel instant comfort. As a bonus, it combines spring bloom, summer berries and fall splendor that will have local catbirds and orioles queuing up for a dip!

Rustic Toe Grip

Hiwzitar Hiwzitar Natural Wood Bird Swing Perch

Crafted with textured wood, this charming hanging branch provides bird-friendly texture. Just hang it from a shepherd's hook using the chain, or loop it over a tree limb or covered porch beam with an S-hook or weatherproof twine. Birds will love using it as a grippy perch to survey the bath and dry their feathers post-soak.

Double-Duty Lattice

Red Barrel Studio / Wayfair Red Barrel Studio Heavy-Duty Iron Garden Trellis

No room for a shrub behind your bird bath? Position this sturdy trellis 10 feet (3m) behind your basin for a multi-tier waiting ladder. The horizontal bars give finches and chickadees plenty of perching rungs while waiting their turn. Plus, it’s great for training vines like clematis or honeysuckles to add lush, protective leaf cover.

Get the Vantage Advantage

(Image credit: Nataba / Getty Images)

For most shy and timid bird species other than your more adventurous robins, that waiting branch needs to be in the right place – and the correct height and distance are critical. Your birdies need a sunny vantage point to weigh the risks before wetting a single feather. Enter the vantage advantage! Basically, the ideal distance for a waiting branch is around 10-12 feet (3-3.7m) from the water's edge. It is near enough for a soggy, water-heavy bird to flutter back to safety in a heartbeat, yet far enough to prevent a sneaky garden cat from leaping out from hidden ground foliage. Get this right, and your feathered friends will be brave enough to take that splashy voyage.

(Image credit: Maria Rueger / Getty Images)

Clear lines of sight and height are equally important. Position your perch 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8m) from the ground to give birds full scope to assess activity both on the ground and in the air. Your waiting branch also needs to allow for smooth entry and exit. To give a clear sightline at a perfect height from the splash zone, secure a tall ground pole or shepherd hook (like the Vigoro Fuchsia 84-Inch Deluxe Double Shepherd Hook from The Home Depot) into the ground or lawn or a large planter. Choosing something a few inches more than you need gives you that sweet spot when the staff or pole is inserted into the soil or sward.

For a basin on a patio or apartment balcony, you can get shepherd hook and bracket sets online. Try the excellent adjustable Juegoal Extended Deck Hook and Clamp from Amazon which mounts directly to a deck railing, to which you can then hang the branch of your choosing. This gives timid finches and chickadees a secure, elevated launching pad with a clear flight path to a safe summer soak. A few species (like dark-eyed juncos) might prefer perches nearer the ground, raised 2 feet (60cm) and tucked close to thicket cover. However, most birdies are happiest with their waiting branch higher for that full-vision vantage point.

Make Your Perch Work

(Image credit: Gary Carter / Getty Images)

As well as where you place it, the type of waiting branch you choose has to be right for the particular needs of your yard around the bird bath. So give some thought to the more practical aspects, such as available space for planting, access for changing bird bath water, and whether you might need to factor in multiple branches for a wider bird community. Native shrubs like serviceberry, flowering dogwood, or arrowwood viburnum provide built-in multi-level perches with protective leaf cover – but obviously you need sufficient space to grow them.

Where planting a full shrub or small tree isn't an option, structural add-ons work brilliantly. Training vines up budget-friendly Aboxoo 2-Pack Decorative Metal Trellis from Amazon creates a lush, multi-tiered waiting ladder right behind the basin. These are lovely both for multiple perches and an evolving curtain of added privacy. For balcony and deck gardeners, a simple clamp-on deck hook is ideal. You can attach natural sticks or branches to these hooks, clamped to available railings. You can even get cute swing-style waiting branches, like the Hiwzitar Natural Wood Bird Swing from Amazon with its textured wood and leafy twine.

(Image credit: Wirestock / Getty Images)

As well as ensuring a decent branch length (around 2-3 feet/60-90cm) for potential birding partners or parents, make sure your branch is a reasonable thickness and strength for little birdie toes waiting to hop into the community pool. Perches that are too springy may send timid bathers scattering. Something 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4cm) thick and ideally textured is best for little feet to grip. If you can vary your branch textures with multiple options, you’ll increase the scope for delicate sparrows and chickadees, as well as more sturdy birdies keen to enjoy the splash zone.

Overcoming Birdy Fears

(Image credit: Vicki-Jauron, Babylon and Beyond Photography / Getty Images)

August in the backyard can be full of family drama for prospective bathing birds, especially when fledgling season reaches its peak. To an uncoordinated juvenile, a bird bath looks like an ocean. Young cardinals and robins are notoriously clumsy bathers, and that waiting branch helps bewildered babes find their feet while their parents demonstrate the art of the splash. The waiting branch also gives them the best chance to preen safely as they get to grips with new post-splash sensations.

For adult birds, the primary fear is getting trapped. Relying on just one landing stick can create a frustrating traffic jam, or situations where bossy blue jays or grackles might corner shy goldfinches and juncos. Incorporating a few staggered perches gives timid bathers like nuthatches an instant escape in either direction.

(Image credit: Linnette Engler / 500px / Getty Images)

Finally, there’s also the birdy fear of approaching a bird bath that might be too still. You can improve your chances of attracting more birdies even further by ensuring that your bird bath features some continuous, gentle movement. Adding subtle water motion with a wiggler like the Solar Water Wiggler from Walmart helps to reassure your perch-bound birdies that the bath is active, safe and clean. Happy splashing!

Shop Bird Bath Extras

(Image credit: Bonnie Taylor Barry / Shutterstock)

Once your waiting branch is in place and your local songbirds feel safe surveying the scene, it’s all about keeping your splash zone sparkling and active. These small extras make a huge difference to birdlife visiting your yard. Use these choice bathing picks to help create a safe, clean and popular poolside vibe all summer long.

Second Splash

Bakayoyo Bakayoyo Ceramic Bird Bath for Ground and Decks

Elevated pedestal baths are great for main lawns, but this secondary bath helps ground-dwelling towhees, juncos, and sparrows. This shallow saucer is ideal for placing near the base of your serviceberry, and a fine compact choice for balconies. Its textured bottom is kind to small feet. Lovely, low-stress backup for timid bathers.

Motion Magic

Mademax Mademax Solar Powered Floating Fountain Pump

Once you’ve got your waiting branch set up, call in the visual reinforcements! Songbirds will be drawn to the glint and trickling sound of moving water. This solar floating fountain creates gentle, dancing sprays, indicating to nervous bathers that the water is fresh and shallow, while keeping mosquitoes from spoiling the fun.

Clean Sweep

Modanu Modanu Ergonomic Bird Bath Brush

Keep your summer bird bath clean with this ergonomic utility brush. The stiff, durable bristles work well on stubborn algae, feather dust, and mineral deposits without scratching delicate ceramic or resin bowls. Clean with a small amount of diluted white vinegar for a safe deep clean that keeps your basin sparkle fresh for birdies.

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Black spot turns up on roses nearly everywhere they are grown. The fungus behind it, Diplocarpon rosae, needs one thing above all else to get established, and that is wet foliage. Everything else about rose care either shortens the window of leaf wetness or stretches it out. The difference usually comes down to habit rather than luck.

Plenty of gardeners reach for black spot remedies the moment a spotted leaf shows up. That helps with what is already on the plant, but it does nothing to solve why the bush keeps getting reinfected. Five ordinary practices account for most of that reinfection. Luckily, each one can be fixed in an afternoon.

What Black Spot Looks Like

(Image credit: Boy_Anupong / Getty Images)

Black spot is one of the most feared rose diseases. The spots begin low on the plant and work their way up. They come up dark and roughly circular, sometimes half an inch (1.3 cm) across. Edges look fringed instead of clean. That detail is what separates black spot from the other blemishes roses collect over a season. A yellow halo spreads out from each lesion as things progress. The whole leaf then yellows and drops. Canes get pulled in too, showing small purplish blotches on the current season’s growth – those blotches are where the fungus sits out the winter.

Infection needs roughly seven hours of continuous leaf wetness at temperatures above 68°F (20°C). That is a low bar in most summers. Once infection takes, new spores can form within a couple of weeks and start the cycle over on whatever is still green.

A rose black spot spray treatment can help slow an active infection, particularly when used early. BioAdvanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs, available on Amazon, is a good option for controlling and preventing black spot. It works best, though, alongside the changes in care that stop the plant getting reinfected.

Defoliation from this common rose disease will not usually kill a rose outright. A bush stripped bare by August heads into winter with very little in reserve, though, and that is where the real damage shows up.

Five Habits That Keep Black Spot Coming Back

None of these habits is careless. They are the sort of moves a careful gardener makes on purpose when growing roses, which is what makes them hard to catch. Each one either lengthens the time rose leaves spend wet or hands the fungus somewhere to wait out the off-season.

1. Watering Overhead – and Watering Late

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Evening feels like the sensible hour to water roses. The heat has broken by then. Nothing wilts on the way in. Leaves wetted at dusk stay wet until the sun clears them the next morning, though, which lands well past the seven hours the fungus needs.

Watering in the morning hands foliage the whole day to dry out. Keeping water at soil level removes the question entirely. A soaker hose, like this 2-pack of Hlinker flat hoses from Amazon, runs along the base of the planting, delivers water straight to the roots without touching a leaf. A watering wand works too, provided the spray stays under the lowest foliage.

Spores do not travel far on their own. They need a ride, and moving water is the only one they take.

2. Leaving Fallen Leaves Where They Land

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A few dropped leaves under a rose look like nothing much. That litter is the reservoir. Diplocarpon rosae overwinters in fallen foliage and in cane lesions, then splashes back onto new growth the following spring. The loop closes there.

A rake pulled underneath the bush through the season, not only at autumn cleanup, is what opens it back up – ten minutes once a week does more here than most sprays manage. Infected leaves belong in the trash. Home compost piles rarely run hot enough to destroy the spores, and finished compost has a way of ending up right back around the roses.

Bagging debris beats stacking it at the edge of the bed, since wind moves infected foliage surprisingly well. A fresh layer of mulch over cleared ground puts a barrier between old spores and new growth. This Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch from Home Depot works well for topping cleared beds around roses.

3. Letting The Bush Close In On Itself

(Image credit: Future)

Roses fill in. Growth that had room in April crosses and tangles by July. The middle of the plant turns into a pocket of still, humid air where leaves stay damp for hours after the outside has dried.

Opening that center is ordinary structural rose pruning: taking out crossing canes and anything headed inward with a pair of sharp bypass pruners. Felco F6 pruners, available from Amazon, were rated best garden pruners in our testing. Clean cuts heal fast where crushed ones sit open. Weeds crowding the base work the same way on a smaller scale.

Spacing at planting matters as much. Roses set close together for a full look in year one are competing for air by year three, and the crowding only tightens from there.

4. Feeding Heavily For Bigger Blooms

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Nitrogen produces exactly what the label promises, which is a flush of soft new leaves. Young tissue happens to be what black spot infects most readily. A heavy spring rose feeding can therefore hand the fungus an entire canopy of easy targets right as spores begin moving.

Tailoring feeding to a soil test result rather than a calendar keeps this in check. An inexpensive soil test kit, like this MySoil Test Kit, recently reviewed by our Content Editor Kathleen, reads soil pH along with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash, so the numbers guide the bag instead of habit doing it. A bush already fighting an infection does better on steady, moderate feeding than on a big push. Late feeding causes the same trouble at a worse point in the year, pushing tender growth into the humid end of summer.

5. Working The Bushes While They Are Wet

(Image credit: Alamy)

Deadheading roses after a rain feels efficient. The soil is soft, and the job goes quickly. Hands and blades moving through soaked foliage carry spores from leaf to leaf far more effectively than rain does on its own. Every cut opens a fresh entry point at the same time.

Waiting until the bush has dried costs a few hours. Cleaning pruners between plants, or at least between a diseased bush and a clean one, costs less than that. Neither step feels like disease control while it is happening, which might be part of why both get skipped. Roses are forgiving plants, and they tend to reward the gardener who slows down at exactly these moments.

Black Spot Resistant Roses

If black spot is a common issue in your garden, then seek out varieties bred to be resistant to the disease.

The Red Double Knock Out Rose

Perfect Plants Pink Apricot Drift Rose

Proven Winners Oso Easy Peasy Rose

Morning water, cleared ground, an open bush, a lighter hand with fertilizer, and the patience to stay out of wet foliage all pull in the same direction – and none of it costs anything. A rose given that much tends to hold its leaves into autumn instead of standing bare by August.

Have you ever heard of a stop-and-fuel garden? It is one of those low effort ideas that works wonders... especially if your goal is to a) see more hummingbirds in your garden, and b) help aforementioned hummingbirds in your garden!

Whether you're the kind of person who obsessively reads up on your birth month hummingbird or not, I suspect you'll already know that August can be a surprisingly important month for hummingbirds. Because, while our gardens may feel like they’re reaching their late-summer peak, these tiny birds are working harder than ever – feeding frequently to maintain their incredible energy levels and, for many species, preparing for migration.

That means your yard can (and should!) become more than just a pretty outdoor space. In fact, with a few thoughtful additions, you can turn it into a vital stop-and-fuel garden – aka a place where hummingbirds can quickly refuel, find themselves something to eat, and enjoy a rest before continuing on their journey.

Create A Stop-And-Fuel Garden For Hummingbirds

If you're keen to do your bit and create a stop-and-fuel garden for hummingbirds, I have some good news for you: we only need three (three!) things to create one.

Without any further ado, then...

1. Set Up A Hummingbird Feeder

The easiest way to turn your yard into a hummingbird stopover? Why, with a reliable hummingbird feeder, of course!

During late summer, when natural food sources start to dwindle, a clean feeder provides a dependable energy boost. Hummingbirds have incredibly fast metabolisms and need to consume large amounts of nectar throughout the day, so gifting them some (whether you buy it pre-made or use this DIY nectar recipe), is always a good idea.

Shop Hummingbird Feeders:

Perky-Pet Cactus Top Fill Glass Hummingbird Feeder

How pretty is this hummingbird feeder? It features built-in bee guards and removable perches!

FeatherSnap Smart Hummingbird Feeder

Get up close and personal with your hummingbird pals using this smart feeder, which sends pictures and videos straight to your phone.

Perky-Pet Window Mount Hummingbird Feeder

No garden? No problem! You can still keep hummingbirds fed and happy with this clever window-mounted design.

There is a little maintenance involved here, of course; nectar should be changed regularly, especially during hot weather, and feeders should be cleaned frequently to prevent mold and bacteria from building up.

Still, as ways to create a stop-and-fuel garden go, it's really simple! Think of it as the garden equivalent of a roadside gas station, and set up accordingly.

2. Grow A Late-Summer Flowering Plant

(Image credit: DansPhotoArt on flickr/Getty Images)

A feeder is helpful, but the best hummingbird hangouts don’t rely on artificial nectar alone. Unsurprisingly, planting flowers gives these birds a more natural food source... and it does it while adding color, movement, and life to your yard.

Some of the best hummingbird-friendly plants for August include salvia, bee balm, cardinal flower, and fuchsia – all rich in nectar and beautifully suited to late-summer borders.

I particularly love salvias for this purpose, as their tubular flowers are perfectly shaped for hummingbirds, and many varieties continue blooming well into the season, creating a long-lasting food supply.

Shop Salvias:

Nature Hills Nursery May Night Salvia

Minimal to zero deadheading required here, just plenty of purple flowers!

Nature Hills Nursery Bumbleberry Salvia

This bold salvia promises season-long color and happy bees in their droves.

Nature Hills Nursery Marcus Salvia

This compact dwarf cultivar proves size really does not matter when it comes to salvia.

A garden full of hummingbird plants has an added bonus, folks, as it also benefits other pollinators, turning your yard into a small but lively ecosystem. Beneficial for your garden, yes, but also the planet. Win win!

3. A Safe Place to Rest

(Image credit: SusanGaryPhotography/Getty Images)

Hummingbirds may be famous for their constant movement, but they also need somewhere to pause.

Adding a small tree, nesting shrub, or sheltered perch gives them a place to rest between feeding sessions and watch for potential threats. They might be cute to look at, but they are also territorial birds, so having nearby branches where they can sit and survey their surroundings can make your garden feel like a safer stopover.

Preferred Partner Proven Winners Temple of Bloom® Seven-Son Flower

Flowering in late summer and fall, this low-maintenance shrub is beloved by nesting hummingbirds.

A shallow water feature with moving water, such as a mister or gentle fountain (I rate this cute solar fountain!), is another welcome addition; hummingbirds aren’t typically attracted to deep bird baths, but they enjoy bathing in fine sprays or droplets.

Shop Hummingbird Essentials:

Qunler Qunler Solar Fountain

Hummingbirds need a water source, but typically don't love deep bird baths; something like this solar fountain would be much better.

BIRDBROS Nectar+ Hummingbird Food

Keep your feeders topped up with this safe and nourishing nectar powder.

SWEET YARDS Wildflower Seeds Butterfly and Humming Bird Mix

If you fancy a more natural approach, try planting 23 species of wildflowers for hummingbirds to enjoy.

And there we have it, everyone! Honestly, the beauty of a hummingbird stop-and-fuel garden is that it doesn’t need to be complicated. All it really takes is a good feeder, a few nectar-rich flowers, and a safe resting spot, and you can transform even a small yard or teeny balcony into a valuable wildlife refuge.

So, this August, don't just sit and watch hummingbirds pass through. Instead, take the time to gift them a place where they can pause, refuel, and return – because, after all, hummingbirds always remember a good spot and tell their friends about it. You can bet they'll be back (and in greater numbers) before too long...

August is when a tomato garden stops being a project and starts becoming a serious workload. Plants sag under the weight of fruit, harvests outpace your kitchen, and the gear that seemed optional back in June suddenly is not.

It’s typically best to buy your tomato growing gear early in the season, when the plants are small and the summer still looks manageable. By the time a vine is six feet of tangled growth loaded with fruit, the gap between what is on hand and what is needed becomes obvious fast. Luckily, that gap doesn't cost much to close.

The tomato growing tools that earn their place this late are not glamorous. They hold plants upright or help move fruit from the garden to the kitchen. Here are the essentials you should snap up now, if you didn’t buy them at the beginning of the season.

Essential August Tomato Tools

Most of the tools you need for growing tomatoes in August remain useful for years. Late-season tomato problems are often mechanical rather than mysterious. Plants fall over. Fruit gets bruised on the walk indoors. A countertop fills faster than anyone can eat through it. Here are the tools you need to help solve these common issues.

1. Heavy-Duty Tomato Cages

(Image credit: Alamy)

The flimsy tomato cages sold every spring are the first thing to fail. An indeterminate tomato in August weighs far more than that wire was built to carry. A plant that goes over in a storm snaps stems and drops fruit onto wet soil where it rots. Damage at this stage in the season does not grow back. Fruit on the ground draws slugs besides.

A square tomato cage from Home Depot in heavy-gauge steel holds a mature plant without leaning and the wide openings make picking easier than a cone cage ever did. Fitting one over a grown plant takes patience, but still beats staking a collapsed vine after the fact. Anything already flopping can be tied to a stake driven at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep.

Another great alternative is to use modular tomato cages – Senior Editor Liz swears by this trellising method. You can easily install modular cages even when plants are large and full of heavy fruit. Just snap them together around the plant.

2. Potassium-Heavy Fertilizer

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Fertilizing tomatoes in August isn't very important – or so the thinking goes. But plants still setting fruit draw hard on potassium and container tomatoes in particular have run through all their nutrients by midsummer. A plant that quits flowering in the heat needs reserves ready for September, because a second flush is usually there for anyone who feeds it.

Espoma Tomato-tone from Amazon is a 3-4-6 mix, which puts potassium ahead of nitrogen. That's important where fruit quality is concerned. This mix includes calcium, too. Blossom end rot is nearly always a watering problem rather than a soil calcium shortage. Steady moisture corrects more cases than any product would, though. Granular feeds go in around the drip line rather than against the stem, then get watered in.

3. Sharp Bypass Pruners

(Image credit: Hakase_ / Getty Images)

Harvesting tomatoes by hand can tear the vine. Twisting a stubborn one may snap the branch it grew on. An August plant is carrying too much fruit to spare the stems. Lower leaves need removing now as well, since foliage touching the soil gives early blight a route up the plant. Tomato suckers are worth pinching out too, since a plant this size gains nothing from more foliage.

A pair of bypass pruners from Lowe's makes clean cuts that seal quickly, unlike the crushed stubs left behind by anvil-style tools or bare fingers. Wipe the blades between plants to prevent spreading diseases. That takes seconds and slows whatever is already loose in the patch.

4. Harvest Basket

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Shirt hems and buckets both fail when you have a hefty tomato harvest in August. A shirt holds a limited number of tomatoes before something drops and a solid bucket lets the bottom layer get crushed under whatever lands on top of it. Ripe fruit bruises easily, too. Anything bruised has to be used the same day.

The Fiskars harvesting basket from Amazon has a colander side, so a load can be rinsed with the hose and drained before it reaches the counter. The flat bottom sits rather than tips, which sounds minor until a full load goes over. Rinsing outside turns a two-trip job into one and soft spots show up under the water.

5. Water Bath Canner

(Image credit: LAWaterhousePhotography / Getty Images)

A big glut of ripe tomatoes always seems to land all at once. A short row of healthy plants puts out more in two weeks than the average household can eat in a month and freezer space runs out long before the vines do. Tomatoes are acidic enough for water bath canning, which is the simplest way to preserve your vegetable harvest. New lids are single-use, though the jars themselves will last decades.

A Granite Ware water bath canner from Amazon holds seven quart jars and comes with the rack, which matters more than it sounds. Lifting hot jars out of boiling water without one is how people get burned.

USDA guidance calls for added acid in every jar, usually bottled lemon juice or citric acid, since many modern tomato varieties sit close to the safety line. This step is not optional for safe consumption of canned tomatoes.

6. Frost Cloths

(Image credit: Philippe Gerber / Getty Images)

Your local first frost date is an average of past years' first frosts, not a promise. One cold night in late September can end a plant still carrying thirty green tomatoes and the forecast rarely gives more than a day or two of real warning. Anything still green when it happens will ripen indoors in a paper bag, though it never quite matches vine-ripened taste.

A floating row cover from Home Depot draped over the plants ahead of a cold night traps enough warmth to carry them through the cold snap. It goes on before dusk and off in the morning, since trapped heat can do as much harm as cold. Using frost cloths can extend your tomato harvest for two or three weeks, which is enough to separate a decent growing season from a great one.

There are around 2.5 million ants for every human on this planet, and if you feel they’re all in your yard right now, you’re not alone. This summer’s heatwave has created ideal conditions for ant populations to surge, particularly in urban areas where there are few natural predators. And the garden spot that’s a magnet for ants? Hummingbird feeders.

Ants detect sweet substances using specialized chemical receptors on their antennae, and can pick up the scent up to 20 feet away. The reason why hummingbird feeders attract so many ants is that sugar granules dissolved in water release a much stronger chemical signal than dry crystals, so are far easier to find. Once a scout ant discovers a plentiful source, it heads back to the nest, leaving behind a pheromone trail that other ants can follow – and suddenly your feeder is smothered in ants.

And that’s a problem. Ants attracted to and falling into the sugar water contaminate the food supply and can jam the small feeding holes. Hummers rarely touch a feeder that’s covered in ants either. Right now, if you’re wondering how to help hummingbirds prepare for their great migration, making your feeder ant-free should be on your to-do list. As well as the basics of keeping your feeder clean and drip-free, there are plenty of chemical-free solutions to try. Researchers have found that hummingbirds can remember their favorite feeding spots, so make sure yours stays ant-free.

1. Hang a Length of Fishing Line

One of the best ways to get rid of ants on a hummingbird feeder is to hang it from a length of fishing line. Ants can climb most things, but fishing line is too fine and slippery for them to grip. Use 20 pound fishing line such as this Stren Original Monofilament Fishing Line from Walmart to create an impassable barrier.

2. Use an Ant Moat

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Another effective but natural pest solution to prevent ants from reaching a hummingbird feeder is to attach an ant moat above it and keep it filled with water. Smaller ants are able to cross water as they’re light enough to not break the surface tension, but a moat will stop most. If you find ants are still breaching this preventive measure, simply hang two moats, one above the other.

Most ant moats come in a pack of two or four and are a cheap buy – this pack of four Red Umbrella Ant Guards from Amazon is currently $8.99 – so that’s easy to achieve.

3. Wrap Aluminum Foil Around the Hook or Pole

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Some folk say aluminum foil is too slippery for ants to grip, others reckon it disrupts their navigation signals; some say it works great, others reckon it doesn’t work at all – but as you’ve probably already got a roll handy in a kitchen drawer, it’s well worth a try. Make sure the shiny side faces outwards.

4. Sprinkle Wood Ash Around the Pole Base

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Wood ash is fine, dry and gritty enough to irritate ants, and if your feeder is on a pole, sprinkling a good amount around the base is a strong deterrent. You’ll need to re-sprinkle after rain, though, and be careful if that feeder stake is pushed into your lawn. The high alkalinity of wood ash will help to deter ants, but it can also scorch and damage grass.

5. Use Diatomaceous Earth Instead

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Diatomaceous earth is a better solution to use on lawns because it can actually help to strengthen grass. This is another fine, abrasive powder that dehydrates ants who attempt to cross it so, like wood ash, only works when it’s dry and needs reapplying after rain. Do use a food-grade product such as Harris Diatomaceous Earth from Amazon that's safe for use around animals.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What Not to Do

Whatever you do, don’t apply Vaseline or any type of oil to a hummingbird feeder pole, even at the base, to stop ants. Even a tiny amount of an oil-based product that gets onto a hummingbird’s feathers can prove fatal. Petroleum jelly in particular causes feathers to lose their waterproofing, attracts dirt and is easily spread as the bird preens, affecting the hummer’s ability to fly and, ultimately, survive.

Keeping ants off a hummingbird feeder is simple with these natural pest prevention solutions. And if you feel you need to reduce the ant population in your garden, a chemical-free ant trap using pantry staples is the answer to getting rid of ants and anthills naturally.

Feeders With Built-In Ant Moats

Saucer Style

Feed Garden Hummingbird Feeders With Built-In Ant Moats 2 Pack

classy glass

Leak-Proof Glass Hummingbird Feeder With Bee Guards and Ant Moat

Window viewing

Birdream Red Window Hummingbird Nectar Feeder With Ant Moat

A standalone privacy screen is such a cost-effective way to cool a patio while screening a seating area from neighbors’ gazes. Light enough to move around on a whim but heavy enough to stay put in a breeze, garden privacy screens add style, too, and you can choose a laser-cut pattern to suit the vibe of your backyard. Bolting together for a near-instant garden upgrade, no cursing or Quikrete required, screens are a quick fix, too.

But the best thing about privacy screens? Their versatility. Once you’re the lucky owner of a standalone screen, you’ll find all sorts of ways to put it to good use in your garden besides improving privacy. From screening a pool to zoning a patio, creating a novel trellis for a clematis, cleverly disguising an ugly aircon unit, or simply carving out a quiet nook of dappled shade to relax in, a privacy screen has endless uses. Most standalone metal designs also come with a selection of fixers for hard and soft ground, so you can also anchor them in place, and use the screen as a more permanent fixture.

No wonder, then, that a simple, stylish screen is the number one item we all want in our yards this year. Ikea’s wooden outdoor privacy screen became an overnight bestseller earlier this summer, and now Target has just dropped a ton of laser-cut metal designs and – even better! – most are currently marked down. So, how are you going to use your new outdoor privacy screen this summer?

1. Create a Cool Pool of Dappled Shade

Leafy Branch Privacy Screen

The number one way to use a privacy screen this heatwave summer is to create cool, dappled patio shade. A screen is such an easy way to add shade to a garden and a dense, detailed pattern takes the heat out of the sun’s rays but still allows light through for comfortable lounging while casting enough shade that you can see what you’re scrolling. Because these screens are easy to move, you can adjust their placement according to the sun's position to get just the right level of shade you fancy, too.

2. Divide a Patio Into Zones

Olive Gray Galvanized Steel Screen

Used midway on a patio, standalone screens will instantly zone different areas for particular uses such as seating and outdoor dining, making more of your outdoor space. Zoning your garden is one of those easy tricks landscape designers use to make a small garden feel bigger, and screens make it super-simple to achieve yourself. Need to clear the decks for a family gathering? Just move the screens to one side.

3. Disguise an Ugly AirCon Unit

Poly Screen With Wood-Grain Texture

Is there an easier way to hide an aircon unit? I don't think so! A slatted screen allows good airflow and it can be easily removed when maintenance is required. Match the color of the screen to the tone of the house wall and the disguise would work even better. This screen is the only non-metal screen in this round-up, but I couldn't let this great idea go by.

4. Create a Garden Sanctuary

2 Freestanding Metal Privacy Screens

Ever get the feeling you want to run away from the world? You're not the only one. We all use our gardens as tranquil escapes, but enclosing a seating area adds another layer of shelter, creating a welcoming nook shielded from external chaos. The beauty of using screens to create a garden sanctuary is that the enclosure isn't permanent, so you can open the area back up whenever you want to.

5. Screen an Unsightly Storage Area

Freestanding Steel Privacy Panel

We all have a garden dumping ground, some bigger than others! Creating a pupose-made area using a standalone screen is one of the easiest DIY projects to upgrade your garden storage. Using a privacy screen to disguise your garbage bins will keep your garden looking tidy, too.

6. Erect a Stylish Standalone Trellis

Diamond Arched Steel Screen

Add some planters and you can use a privacy screen as a trellis, creating an attractive standalone garden feature. So, you not only add privacy to a garden but more growing space. It’s best to choose a design with ground fixings, as filling the gaps with greenery mean the screen will catch the wind, so will need securing. Most screens come with ground fixings for both lawn and hard paving, but do check before buying.

7. Enclose a Balcony End

2 Galvanized Steel Privacy Screens

Because they’re designed to be easily repositioned, most screens are light enough to use on a balcony to create shelter, shade and privacy without compromising weight restrictions. Be sure to choose a self-assembly design so you can build your privacy screen in situ, though.

8. Add a See-Through Windbreak

Laser Cut Metal Privacy Screen

Choose a design that can be anchored securely to the ground and a privacy screen will effectively shelter a seating area from the wind without fully obstructing the view. The advantage of using an open-design privacy screen such as this is that you'll still enjoy a slight breeze.

9. Link Indoors and Outdoors

Arch Urban Maze Privacy Screen

Siting a screen in line with a house corner will immediately make a patio or deck feel more connected to the house, creating those much-coveted indoor-outdoor vibes. An arched design adds an extra layer of interior style.

10. Create a Pergola Wall

White Galvanised Steel Privacy Screen

Using standalone screens to enclose one side of a pergola creates a more sheltered, private area for outdoor dining, and the feel of an outside 'room'. Add a hanging solar pendant lamp from a central pergola strut and you're well on your way to turning your patio into an outside living room without spending a fortune.

11. Train Climbing Vines Up a Planter Screen

Metal Raised Planter Box With Screen

A screen that incorporates a raised bed means you have an inbuilt trellis to grow a pretty vine that doesn’t scramble out of control. This design has lockable 360° casters which means it’s still easy to move around and use as a mobile privacy screen.

12. Upgrade Poolside Privacy

Bamboo Leaf Silhouette Privacy Screen

A strategically placed screen provides just the right amount of pool privacy without making the space feel enclosed. Matching the screen design to your planting style will bring a plush, put-together look to your pool area, too. The bamboo leaf design of this screen matches the foliage-first planting perfectly.

13. Block Nosy Neighbors

Decorative Metal Privacy Screen

Let’s not forget the number one use for a privacy screen, shall we, of keeping neighbors' noses out of our backyard business! A laser-cut screen lets you see through the gaps at close proximity but creates an effective barrier from afar, so while you block neighbors' views into your garden, you don't obscure your view out. Along with using layers of airy planting to hide your garden goings-on from prying neighbors, a standalone screen is a must to add privacy to a backyard.

High summer is when some plants thrive and others fade away. Certain herbs like cilantro and dill tend to bolt and turn bitter as temperatures rise, but others actually reach their culinary peak in the relentless heat of late summer. It's an interesting phenomenon – heat stress triggers certain herbs to produce higher concentrations of essential oils as a natural defense against moisture loss. The plant stays healthy, yes, but it also inadvertently makes itself extra tasty!

You'll see a lot of what we call "Mediterranean herbs" on this list. That makes sense – the Mediterranean climate is hot and dry, meaning its native herbs are naturally good at making those moisture-locking oils. As such, you'll notice that they're especially common in cuisine from Italy, Greece, North Africa... all those delicious foods from the Mediterranean region.

Let's take a look at the parts of the herb garden that taste the best under the sizzling August sun, and get ready to harvest! (I find harvesting delicate herbs works best with a small pair of Fiskars snips I got on Amazon).

1. Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Basil is the king of the summer herbs. It's not just frost-tender – it'll sulk around until daytime temperatures start consistently hitting the 80s (26-32 C). Then it explodes upward and outward with large, glossy leaves that taste like nothing else on earth. It will try to flower on you, but don't let it. Pinch back flower heads or, to do one better, cut it back several nodes down to encourage bushier, healthier growth.

I find I can harvest basil in early July, cutting plants way down so just a few lower leaves remain. If the summer's warm and bright, they'll bounce back fuller than ever and be ready for a second, more flavorful harvest in August. It's great in pesto, as a garnish or, as I've recently discovered, replacing the "L" in a classic BLT sandwich.

Bonnie Plants Sweet Basil Live Plant 2-Pack

2. Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)

(Image credit: Boy_Anupong / Getty Images)

Native to the dry, sun-drenched coast of the Mediterranean, rosemary is built to withstand extreme heat and drought. It does this by producing highly-concentrated oils that contain pinene and camphor – two things that are responsible for rosemary's unmistakable piney, woodsy scent. This means sprigs harvested in late summer will be way more intensely flavored that those harvested from the same plant in winter.

To get the best flavor, harvest entire sprigs in the late morning after the dew has dried but before the afternoon heat fully sets in. Add it to focaccia, grilled meats, oil for bread dipping or, a favorite of mine, rosemary shortbread cookies.

Bonnie Plants Rosemary Live Plant 2-Pack

3. Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

(Image credit: Elena Medoks / Getty Images)

Thyme may look delicate with its tiny little leaves, but it's one of the toughest heat-seekers out there. In cooler weather it might taste mild, but in high summer it ramps up production of thymol, the compound that gives it its unique, almost medicinal bite.

When harvesting, snip off the top few inches where the leaves are the most packed with oil. A few sprigs go well on almost anything – roast vegetables, tomato sauces, or (this one's my favorite) roasted with cherry tomatoes and a block of feta cheese.

Bonnie Plants German Thyme Live Plant 2-Pack

4. Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citrodora)

(Image credit: LazingBee / Getty Images)

If you want the brightest, purest citrus flavor imaginable but don't have a lemon on hand, you're going to want lemon verbena. It thrives in high heat, when its leaves are bursting with citral oil. In the spring its foliage can taste a bit grassy, but late-summer plants have an almost perfume-like intensity to their citrus notes.

Harvest whole leafy stems during hot spells to infuse ice teas, cocktails, and simple syrups. Or just give it a squeeze when you walk past – your hands will carry that fresh, bright scent for a long time.

Name It, LLC Lemon Verbena Live Plant

5. Greek Oregano (Origanum vulgare hirtum)

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

True Greek oregano is a subspecies of common oregano that's much richer in carvacrol, the compound that gives it its punch. That means it has a much more intense flavor. If your Greek oregano still tastes bland in early summer, just wait (and stop watering!) It responds beautifully to dry, harsh summers.

For maximum flavor, harvest oregano just as the tiny white flower buds begin to form at the tips of the stems. It's great fresh, but it also keeps its flavor remarkably well when dried, which means you can savor that sharp bite all winter long.

Bonnie Plants Greek Oregano Live Plant 2-Pack

6. Summer Savory (Satureja hortensis)

(Image credit: ADELART / Getty Images)

Summer savory is the least-known plant on this list – it's much less famous than its cousin winter savory, and if we're being honest that one's not winning any popularity contests. It still deserves a spot here, though. It's a quick-growing annual that really comes into its own in the hottest stretch of summer, when its leaves are packed with thymol and carvacrol. If you've been reading closely, you'll recognize those as the major compounds in thyme and Greek oregano. Summer savory's flavor palette has echoes of both of those, but it stands up as its own unique taste.

For some reason it's become inextricably tied with bean dishes, but it also goes great with grilled vegetables and chicken.

Eden Brothers Summer Savory Seeds

August is one of the most pivotal times in our gardens because we can reap our greatest summer produce , see the beginnings of fall just around the corner and plant winter vegetables for February and March harvest.

The seasons seem to converge this month, but there is much to do to maximize each one’s potential.

After our many hours of nurturing and care in the veggie garden, we now need to take preventive maintenance steps for crops like tomatoes and potatoes, which can be destroyed almost overnight by late blight. Mid-August is the critical time frame, and all you need to do is to create a protective poly covering to keep rain off the foliage. Furthermore, when you water, please wet the soil only and not the leaves.

Your tomatoes would also appreciate a dose of tomato food with added calcium to prevent blossom end rot, which causes the bottom of the tomato to turn black. Alternatively, you can apply a little lime at the base of the plant which will also help to add calcium. Harvest season for tomatoes should continue well into September, so taking these extra precautions will ensure you can enjoy these wonderful fruits for many weeks to come.

Another other red flag in our gardens this month is the white cabbage butterfly. If you see them, they will already have laid their eggs on your brassicas. A weekly preventive spray of the biological insecticide BTK (bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) bacteria will keep the leaves of your cabbage, cauliflower, kale, broccoli and Brussels sprouts clean and ready to harvest.

If you have open space in your garden, you can still set out started plants of lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard and beets for later harvests in the fall, but try to save some real estate for winter veggies.

Over the next few weeks, you can either seed or transplant the true winter vegetables. These hardier strains of brassicas, beets, onions, carrots and lettuce were developed to grow and size up in late fall, rest in the coldest parts of winter, and be ready for harvest in late February or early March, depending on the severity of the winter.

They are cold-rated for Zone 6 growing but, when planted in the warmest location in your gardens and protected by Remay or N-Sulate during significant cold spells, their survival rate is amazing.

Purple sprouting broccoli, pure white cauliflower, tasty corn salad or Winter Density lettuce are delicious, novelty treats at that time of year. If you have never tried winter food gardening before, it is well worth a little trial.

Food preserving is making a huge comeback with the ever-increasing prices of fresh produce. Many folks have fruit trees in their gardens with the fruit simply going to waste, but making jams, jellies and preserving plums, peaches and pears and berries is a great way to enjoy them year-round.

Should you have lots to share from the garden, keep in mind that food banks are in great need of quality fresh food, but it does need to be clean. Check with your local centre to find out the best time to deliver your excess produce. You’ll be filling a very important continuing need and it is very rewarding helping so many others.

August is also the only time of year to find the unique and stunning late summer blooming crocus. The most well-known is c. sativus, also known as the saffron crocus. Planted now, they will flower in September with beautiful lavender blooms. After flowering, they will die down and stay dormant until next year when they will return with an even more stunning display. Plant lots, by the way, because it takes about one thousand stamens to produce one ounce of saffron!

Other beautiful crocus are also available in August, the largest of which is the Autumn crocus (colchicum a.). They are well worth planting, because once they naturalize over the years their display can spread to almost a meter across. Colchicums are available in soft lavender, double lavender, and white. They have not become very popular, simply through lack of public knowledge, and I think they are a huge, missed opportunity in September gardens.

There are several other varieties of fall blooming crocus too, like c. kotschyanus (zonatus) and the yellow sternbergia lutea. If you can find them, plant them for years of enjoyment.

August is also the perfect time to shift the colour palette of your garden into autumn tones. Including both late flowering perennials and early flowering ornamental grasses can transition your garden into an autumn feel.

I love the many new echinacea varieties which have been bred for increased colour selection, longer flowering habit and hardier plants. Sombrero, Double Scoop and the Sun Magic varieties are just a few of the new standouts.

Long blooming false sunflowers (heleniums) in their yellow and rust tones, or heliopsis, and the many new varieties and colours of coreopsis create a rich autumn show.

The rudbeckia family is perhaps the most significant in terms of strong, long blooming perennials that last well into October. From the two-metre tall Herbstsonne to the compact Little Goldstar, they all enrich the fall garden.

All of these beautiful and long-lasting perennials play nicely with ornamental grasses, but in particular with the rich bunny-tail plumes of pennisetum, shorter miscanthus like Yaku Jima, with its handsome bronze flower plumes, and the panicum or Switchgrass family, many of which have foliage and flowers that mature into rich burgundy tones.

August is a very different time in our gardens, opening up opportunities for winter food, September fall crocus, and a perennial and grass landscape to enhance our colour schemes for the arrival of autumn.

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August is upon us, which means that my annual panic over my green tomatoes refusing to turn red has begun in earnest. Every morning, I make my way outside and inspect them closely, searching for the slightest hint of blush. A tiny patch of pink? A warm orange glow? Any sign that my beloved tomatoes are finally ready to become the pasta sauces, salads, and summer lunches I have been imagining since I planted them.

You guessed it, folks: none whatsoever. Instead, they remain stubbornly green and completely uninterested in my plans – and nobody shares my pain, as I am far more invested in this tomato harvest than anyone else in our house. My four- and two-year-old children have already informed me (several times) that they will never, ever eat a tomato, and my husband’s taste preferences are apparently not much more adventurous.

I am the only person eagerly waiting for that perfect moment when I can finally pick my tomatoes and turn them into something delicious. This year, though, my husband (who, as well as being an avowed tomato hater, is also a professional gardener with two decades of experience under his belt) has shared his secrets with me. Finally.

Why We Shouldn't Panic Over Green Tomatoes

As it turns out, green tomatoes are not necessarily a sign that something has gone wrong. In fact, this summer’s extreme heat could be the reason they appear to have pressed pause.

Yes, while tomatoes love sunshine, they have a surprisingly specific comfort zone when it comes to ripening – specifically temperatures around 70°F to 75°F (21°C to 24°C). This is the sweet spot when it comes to efficiently producing the pigments that create their familiar red and orange colors. And so, when daytime temperatures consistently climb beyond around 85°F to 90°F (29°C to 32°C), the plant can temporarily slow down pigment production.

"That means your tomatoes might look perfectly full-sized, plump, and ready, but they will remain stuck in the 'mature green' stage until conditions become more favorable," my husband explained.

(Image credit: nicolas_ / Getty Images)

Considering he is the most zen man in the world (the joys of working outdoors), it's hardly surprising that my husband’s first piece of advice for my annual green tomatoes anxiety was to "stop panicking and give them time".

Thankfully, he knows me. He knows that, as someone who has been emotionally checking the same tomatoes every day, this is easier said than done. And so, to help soothe my torrid thoughts, he shared a few things I can do to help my tomato plants focus their energy on ripening the fruit they already have.

Shop Tomato Cooking Essentials:

Cosori Food Dehydrator

Sun dried tomatoes your vibe? This is the answer!

Walmart 32 Oz Wide Mouth Mason Jars

Whether you turn them into a pickle, sauce or chutney, you'll need jars aplenty!

IKEA Havstulpan Pizza Pan - Cast Iron 13 ¾ "

The only way I can make my children stomach a tomato is by cooking pizza!

1. Strip & Pinch

If you want to coax your green tomatoes into turning red, the first thing to do is to remove some of the lower leaves. By stripping away leaves near the bottom of the plant, you can improve airflow and allow more light to reach the developing fruit.

You can also pinch out the main growing tip of the plant. This stops it from putting energy into producing new flowers and encourages it to concentrate its remaining resources on ripening the tomatoes already growing.

2. Don't Let Them Bake

(Image credit: Vaivirga / Shutterstock)

My instinct has always been to assume that more sun must equal faster ripening, but my husband says green tomatoes (and red ones, too) are at risk of sunscald, which appears as pale, leathery patches on the skin.

"A tomato doesn’t need to be baked to ripen," he reminds me. "If you notice a tomato showing even the faintest hint of color, pick it and bring it indoors. You can leave it ripening on a kitchen counter, where conditions are often much more suitable."

3. Water Consistently

Inconsistent watering? Apparently a cardinal sin if you're trying to shift your green tomatoes into the red zone.

Regular watering at the base of the plant helps support healthy growth and can reduce problems such as fruit splitting and blossom end rot, where the bottom of the tomato becomes dark and sunken.

"The aim is consistency," my husband says pointedly (almost as if he's been watching me and sighing when my back is turned). "Not a dramatic rescue mission every few days when the soil looks desperate."

Shop Watering Essentials:

Know Before You Grow

XLUX Long Probe Soil Moisture Meter

A 16-inch probe allows you to easily measure soil moisture throughout your garden beds.

Terrain Daffodil Copper Rain Chain

Rain harvesting is already the chicest trend of all (who doesn't love to grow sustainably), but this cute AF rain chain takes things to a whole new level.

Terrain Heritage Garden Hose

Available in three eye-popping hues, this hose is here to do a job AND look good doing it.

My husband’s final piece of advice was perhaps the hardest one for me to accept: this is usually just a temporary pause, and patience (as ever) is a virtue. "Once temperatures drop and conditions become more comfortable, tomatoes often get back to the important business of ripening," he says.

I suppose I have to admit that, while my husband may not enjoy eating tomatoes, he sure does know how to grow them; reluctantly, I have to admit he might know what he’s talking about. And if a few particularly stubborn green tomatoes should still refuse to cooperate, even after all of this advice? Well, I have a backup plan. Green tomato chutney.

Wish me luck...

Late summer can be a tricky period for gardening. Temperatures may be as high as they were in July or beginning to drop. Your area might be in a drought or getting rain. This is a crucial time for most lemon trees, as the fruits are ripening. For some varieties, like Meyer lemons, they may be ready to harvest as soon as late August.

August lemon tree care depends on your region’s conditions, but often includes extra watering and keeping developing fruits safe from extreme temperatures. You could mostly leave your trees alone right now, but these few simple tasks will reduce stress, improve fruit quality, and improve overall health for this year and next.

Let's see which tasks are worth the squeeze (pun intended) in August.

1. Water Deeply But Not Frequently

(Image credit: Fatih OZ / Getty Images)

Unless it’s raining regularly in your garden, your lemon tree will appreciate a deep soaking about once a week. For most gardeners, August is hot, which means the soil around your tree’s roots will dry out more quickly. A regular but not daily soaking is better for the roots and the tree than daily light watering. The exception is a potted tree, which might need water every day. We love this citrus tree planter from Vego because it is a self-watering container so you don't have to worry about a sudden dry spell or heat wave. (It also has wheels to make it easy to move indoors as the weather cools!)

The best way to tell if your lemon tree needs some water is to stick your finger in the soil. If the first couple of inches (5 cm) are dry, it’s time to water again. Give the tree a good soaking in the morning to reduce water lost to evaporation.

2. Refresh the Mulch to Keep Roots Cool

(Image credit: Vasil Dimitrov / Getty Images)

While the summer heat blazes on, your trees can easily get stressed. Late summer heat is especially risky for citrus trees, which have shallow roots. Overheated and stressed roots can affect the entire plant, including fruit development.

If you don’t have mulch around your tree, add some. If you already have mulch, now is a good time to check it for thin spots and add fresh mulch as needed. Use wood chips, shredded bark, or compost and aim for a layer about two to four inches (5 to 10 cm) deep out to the drip line. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot. Potted trees can also benefit from mulch.

3. Fertilize, But Gently

(Image credit: Iryna Inshyna / Getty Images)

Citrus trees are heavy feeders. They benefit from regular fertilizer application throughout the summer to support healthy growth and fruit development. Balance is important, though. Too much fertilizer can damage a tree. If you applied a slow-release fertilizer in June or July, don’t feed your tree now.

If you have been using a liquid or diluted fertilizer throughout the summer, carry on applying it now. If the weather is particularly hot and dry, hold off until temperatures cool a little, and you can ensure your tree will get enough water.

Use a balanced citrus fertilizer, and if you’re unsure if your tree really needs it, dilute to half strength before applying. This GrowScripts citrus tree care kit from Fast Growing Trees has everything you need and a care calendar to help take the guesswork out of fertilizing.

4. Check for Pests

(Image credit: Tomasz Klejdysz / Getty Images)

Late summer weather can be ideal for lemon tree pests, so take the time to check leaves and fruits for them. Look for aphids, spider mites, scale, and citrus leaf miners. The latter are most commonly seen on new growth. Look at both sides of leaves, as pests often infest the undersides.

In addition to the pests themselves, some signs they are present include curling leaves, sticky honeydew with ants, webbing, and silvery trails. If you see pests or their signs, you can use organic solutions, like neem oil or insecticidal soap, to manage them. Content Editor Kathleen Walters has been using Garden Safe brand insecticidal soap from Amazon for years with great success.

A strong blast with the hose can also be effective at dislodging many pests. Early treatment is best, but also keep in mind that healthy, well-watered trees not stressed by the heat are better prepared to resist pest damage.

5. Pruning vs. Fruit Protection

(Image credit: Garna Zarina / Shutterstock)

A period of summer heat is not the best time to prune a citrus tree, as this can lead to additional stress. However, it’s beneficial at any time of year to remove any damaged part of the tree, including damaged fruits, which can leave the door open to disease. You can also remove water sprouts at the base of the trunk.

In addition to avoiding stress, not heavily pruning now is important because the canopy of the tree protects developing fruit from extreme heat. While lemon trees thrive in sun and warm climates, extreme temperatures can be damaging. Any fruit exposed to the sun during a heat wave can get burned, causing scorched and patchy skin. Leave your tree’s canopy in place for now.

August doesn’t require any major changes in care for your lemon trees. Mostly, you’re continuing what you’ve been doing all summer, making adjustments for extreme weather conditions or if you see pests.

Spend a little extra time providing water during dry, hot conditions, refreshing mulch, and checking for signs of pests, and your tree should continue to ripen healthy, juicy lemons, soon to be ready for harvesting.

Summer is a time for relaxing getaways, a great break for you but potentially a stressful time for your houseplants. Fortunately, not every plant demands daily watering or constant attention. Many popular houseplants are popular because they tolerate or even thrive on neglect.

Whether you’re planning a trip or just want low-maintenance greenery, these options are ideal. A little basic houseplant care before and after a vacation will keep these resilient beauties alive and thriving. Or if you're going away for a really long time, consider a smart plant waterer, which you can find at Amazon.

1. ZZ Plant

(Image credit: Elena Shashkina / Shutterstock)

ZZ plant, or Zamioculcas zamiifolia, is also known as Zanzibar gem and eternity plant. It has glossy, dark green leaves and grows upright, making an attractive indoor container plant.

ZZ plant is native to eastern Africa, growing in drought-prone regions. It has thick rhizomes that store water, allowing it to survive weeks of dry conditions. In your home, this means you can miss several waterings and still have a healthy plant. It also grows well in low light. Give it one good watering before you leave on a trip, and it will be fine.

United Nursery Live ZZ Plant

2. Snake Plant

(Image credit: aire images / Getty Images)

Snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata), or mother-in-law plant, is a great option for anyone new to growing houseplants and those who are gone often. It has striking, tall, sword-shaped leaves with gorgeous variegation and golden borders.

Your snake plant is one of the toughest of all houseplants. Its fleshy leaves store water, and it tolerates low-light conditions. You’re more likely to kill a snake plant with overwatering than underwatering. In fact, it’s better to leave the soil slightly dry before you head off on vacation than to give it a soaking.

Smart Planet Live Snake Plant

3. Ponytail Palm

(Image credit: Yobab / Getty Images)

Beaucarnea recurvata, the ponytail palm, gets its common name from the way the long, narrow leaves emerge in a bundle from the fleshy stem, spilling over like hair in a ponytail. These easy indoor plants are not true palms, but they provide a tropical, palm-like look and can potentially grow to six feet (1.8 m) tall in an indoor container.

Ponytail is actually a type of succulent. Native to arid regions of Central America, it has a thick, fleshy trunk, often described as an elephant foot because it is wider at the bottom. This unique trunk stores water, allowing the plant to go a week or two without attention. When going on vacation, place your ponytail palm in a sunny spot and only water it if the soil is very dry. It only needs a little moisture to survive your trip.

Costa Farms Live Ponytail Palm

4. Cast Iron Plant

(Image credit: skymoon13 / Getty Images)

Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has an apt common name. It is exceptionally tough, thrives even in lower light conditions and changing temperatures, and tolerates and forgives neglected watering. Native to Japan and China, cast iron plant gives you plenty of lush, dark green foliage with little effort.

If you plan to jet off for extended periods of time in the summer, this is the plant for you. Make sure the soil has some moisture before you leave, but there’s no need to give it a soaking. Place it in a location with indirect or dappled light, not bright, direct light.

Wayfair Live Cast Iron Plant

5. Jade

(Image credit: Andrey Nikitin / Getty Images)

Jade plant (Crassula ovata) is a classic succulent houseplant with small, fleshy leaves growing on woody stems. It thrives in conditions of bright light but dry air and soil. You only ever need to water it when the soil has completely dried out, as the leaves hold and store moisture. Another bonus of growing a jade plant: it can live for up to 70 years.

Overwatering is more often an issue with jade plants than dry soil. If you’re going on vacation, give your jade plant a good soaking a day or two before you leave. This will give you a chance to check the bottom and be sure the water is draining, and the roots aren’t sitting in soggy soil. Make sure to leave it in a spot with bright light.

Altman Plants Live Jade Plant 8-Pack

6. Pothos

(Image credit: fcafotodigital / Getty Images)

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a beloved houseplant because it’s so easy to grow and because it’s a real beauty. This is a vining plant native to Asia with glossy, heart-shaped leaves. In addition to being low-maintenance, you can choose from varieties in different shades of green, with variegation, and even with large white patches.

Pothos actually likes a decent amount of water and flourishes with a regular watering schedule. However, it is very forgiving and will bounce back quickly after being neglected for a while, even if it’s a little wilted and drooping. Before a trip, give it a good soak and leave it out of bright sunlight, which will dry out the soil more quickly.

If your summer plans include a fun getaway, you don’t have to come home to dead houseplants. Choose tough, low-maintenance, and forgiving plants like these and water them before you leave to set them up for success.

Plant Addicts Live Neon Pothos Plant

A perfectly edited room may appear calm and effortless, but then family life arrives with wet coats, bicycle helmets, laundry and charging cables.

For Vancouver interior designers Chad Falkenberg and Kelly Reynolds, minimalism is not about pretending these things do not exist. Through their studio, Falken Reynolds, they create highly resolved interiors that accommodate ordinary life without allowing its clutter to dominate.

Their clean but warm approach pairs disciplined simplicity with natural materials, fine craftsmanship and a close understanding of how clients want to live.

“For us, minimalism is never about removing character. It is about removing unnecessary distraction so the people living in the home become the focus,” says Reynolds.

Practical restraint

Rather than beginning with a look, Falkenberg and Reynolds begin with daily routines. What needs to be stored, dried or carried through the house?

These considerations become part of the architecture rather than problems to solve afterwards.

Warmth is created through natural materials, craftsmanship, texture, acoustics and the way daylight moves through a room.

The studio draws on Japanese restraint, Scandinavian comfort and the clarity of mid-century modernism, borrowing shared principles rather than reproducing recognizable styles.

“If someone walks into the house and immediately identifies a particular design movement, we’ve probably been too literal. We’d rather they simply feel calm, comfortable and connected to the home,” says Reynolds.

Falkenberg and Reynolds agree that minimalism may look simple, but it requires planning. The mistake is editing away warmth instead of clutter. A limited palette and thoughtful detailing give each element room to breathe.

Philosophy made visible

Seawall House is a great example of the Falken Reynolds approach.

Built in 1929, the Vancouver home retains the character of its Craftsman exterior while opening into a contemporary interior shaped by natural oak, generous light and exacting craftsmanship.

The clients wanted a forever home for their young family, with a life revolving around cycling the seawall, walking the beach, working from home and entertaining friends.

“The clients often talked about wanting a home that could only exist in Vancouver,” says Reynolds.

Views outdoors, natural wood to soften grey winters and practical spaces for wet clothing and equipment root the house in its setting.

Architect Peter Rose restored and evolved the exterior while navigating heritage requirements, says Falkenberg:

“The craftsmanship and detailing on the outside are remarkable. It feels as though the house has always been this way, even though almost every detail is newly built.”

Inside, Falken Reynolds respected its Craftsman origins without recreating a period interior.

The idea that materials should be touched, repaired and passed down informed solid oak appliance pulls, timber wall panelling and a staircase that quietly reinterprets traditional construction.

Warmth without clutter

Natural oak runs across floors, walls, cabinetry, furniture and stairs. Repetition is avoided through changes in scale, purpose and detail, becoming architecture in one place and furniture or a tactile surface in another.

Wood meets leather, Corian, stone and steel with enough precision to allow each material to be appreciated without competing.

Rather than selecting numerous finishes, the designers use fewer materials more extensively and allow craftsmanship to provide richness. The result feels cohesive but leaves room for belongings and memories to accumulate.

The invisible work behind calm rooms

“The most successful minimalist homes are usually the ones where the hardest work is invisible,” says Falkenberg.

They designed the Seawall house mud room with individual storage bays for all four family members, laundry facilities, drying closets, durable concrete floors and easy-to-maintain surfaces. Technology is concealed and frequently used possessions have designated places.

The lower and main floors were lifted to increase ceiling heights, allowing daylight to reach further inside and creating room to integrate lighting, storage and millwork discreetly.

“This was fundamentally an architectural intervention led by architect Peter Rose. By lifting the lower and main floors while carefully working within heritage constraints, the house became dramatically more livable without losing its relationship to the neighbourhood,” says Falkenberg.

A changing idea of home

For Falken Reynolds, global uncertainty is having an impact on how people view their homes: less showcase and more anchor.

“We’ve noticed our clients thinking more deeply about home than ever before. They’re asking questions about legacy, well-being, sustainability, family and how they want to spend the next twenty or thirty years of their lives — not simply what looks beautiful today,” says Reynolds.

That shift is visible across Falken Reynolds’ current work. Walden, a private lakeside retreat near Pemberton, spans five acres and eight buildings, with warm hemlock interiors conceived as a Canadian interpretation of a forest retreat.

They’ve also recently completed a Nova Scotia cottage using local stone, rich woods and furniture by eastern Canadian artisans. Other projects include minimalist townhouses planned around pets, a charcoal-toned penthouse and homes designed around allergies, ageing parents and multi-generational living.

Luxury that earns its place

At Seawall House, the owners asked for luxury to be expressed through details rather than grand gestures.

That might mean cabinetry made with the care of fine furniture, a carved Corian pull that doubles as a tea towel rail, or an integrated sink with fewer joins to clean and maintain.

Luxury lies not in precious surfaces, but in durable materials and thoughtful solutions that make a house easier to live in.

“Good design isn’t about creating beautiful moments. It’s about making ordinary moments feel effortless,” says Reynolds.

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