Organic Gardening News

What looks more majestic in a landscape than a mighty oak tree or a tall, spreading magnolia? But put one in a small front yard and the house looks diminished and unimpressive. If you would like to up curb appeal with a high-end look, you’re better off installing a smaller tree, one that is interesting, elegant, and won’t outgrow its welcome.

Small trees for gardens come in many varieties but not every one will add value to your home and upgrade its look. I’ve pulled together a list of the top trees that do both – creating a strong first impression and adding a touch of elegant beauty that attracts all eyes.

Check out these small trees that will make your yard look like it was designed by a high-end landscaping company, but you can buy and plant them yourself for a fraction of the price.

1. 'Little Gem' Magnolia

(Image credit: WilliamHC / Getty Images)

We all know and love the southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), those evergreen trees with shiny leaves and a crop of what might be the world’s most beautiful blossoms in springtime. But these trees grow to 90 feet (30 m) tall, totally overpowering a small front yard.

Opt for the tidy, compact option: a dwarf southern magnolia cultivar called 'Little Gem'. This elegant tree has smaller foliage that is just as glossy and the same lovely shade of dark green as the big trees. Plus, it has the same large fragrant white saucer-shaped flowers that bloom from spring into summer.

These cultivars need a full sun location, thriving in USDA hardiness zones 7-9. When planted, they require regular watering, but they become more drought tolerant as they mature.

Little Gems top out at 20-25 feet (7-8 m) tall and offer a very compact, narrow form. They are appealing, upscale trees that give a home a polished, established look. This naturally small tree is especially captivating when it is trained as espalier against a wall or fence.

You can find Little Gem magnolia trees for sale at the Home Depot.

2. 'Cherokee Brave' Dogwood

(Image credit: Simon McGill / Getty Images)

Native trees take the cake for easy-care beauty, so if this is your preference, who can blame you. Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida), which is native to the eastern half of the continent, is your best choice.

Flowering dogwood is a small deciduous tree that carries a big impact in the landscape. The trees grow to 15-30 feet (5-10 m) tall with low, broad branching. Dogwood fans call it the most beautiful of the native American trees.

It blooms in early spring, often in April. The actual flowers of the dogwood are small and insignificant, compacted into button-like clusters. But each one is surrounded by four showy, white, petal-like bracts which open flat, giving the appearance of a single large white flower.

'Cherokee Brave' dogwood has all of these attributes, but its flowers are a particularly lovely, deep crimson with contrasting white centers. Spring growth is also a stunning burgundy and the leaves turn glorious shades of red in fall. The late summer fruits are also bright red and beloved by birds.

The classic look of the horizontally-tiered branches as well as the vibrant maroon fall foliage add immensely to the curb appeal of your home. Dogwood trees thrive in USDA zones 5-8 in a full sun to part shade location. Prevent the root zone from getting hot by adding a thick layer of organic mulch.

You can find Cherokee Brave dogwood trees online from Trees.com.

3. Paperbark Maple

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Cool and classy, the paperbark maple (Acer griseum) boosts front-yard curb appeal with its rich cinnamon and chestnut-colored exfoliating bark. The bark peels back naturally, providing exceptional architectural and textural interest right through the winter.

Here’s a small tree with multi-season interest. The exfoliating bark that curls and clings to the trunk makes a stunning contrast with the glowing dark green summer leaves, and fiery orange-red autumn foliage.

Paperbark maple is a slow-growing and compact tree, topping out at 20-30 feet (7-10 m). It thrives in USDA hardiness zones 4-8 and prefers a location with partial or full sun and well-draining soil. Site this somewhere it can be seen from the street in every season.

Paperbark maples can be a bit difficult to find in stores, but you can get one from Scenic Hill Farm on Etsy.

4. 'Blue Arrow' Juniper

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With tight silvery-blue foliage and a sleek narrow form, a line of 'Blue Arrow' juniper trees (Juniperus scopulorum ‘Blue Arrow') along an entryway offers a clean, modern touch to a front yard.

Each tree grows into a compact column, no higher than 15 feet (5 m) tall and only a few feet wide, making it an elegant and space-saving alternative to the Italian cypress, often found on large estates.

These trees are very hardy, thriving in USDA zones down to zone 4. It does need a full sun location but, once mature, the tree doesn’t require much water. Only irrigate when the top few inches of soil dry out.

Did we mention how tough this little evergreen can be? It resists deer, drought, urban pollution, and harsh winter weather.

You can find 'Blue Arrow' junipers for sale from Trees.com.

Black-eyed Susans are a late-season essential but if you’ve got the classic Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’ in your garden, you need to know that there are other varieties that bring more flowers, for much longer. This popular perennial was introduced way back in 1949 and since then, plant breeders have created cultivars and hybrids that are more drought tolerant, heat tolerant and disease resistant, with more abundant blooms over a longer period.

So, if you’re looking for low-maintenance late-season plants that will flower for months into fall, these modern black-eyed Susan varieties are a no-brainer. Whether you want to enjoy the daisy-like blooms yourself, provide a late-season source of nectar for pollinators, or grow a feast of seeds for your garden birds, these robust plants will give you far more flowers for far less effort.

And let's be clear: black-eyed Susan Goldsturm is still a fabulous plant – but these black-eyed Susans are better. Plant one in your garden and see for yourself.

1. Best for Disease Resistance: Black-Eyed Susan American Gold Rush

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One of the biggest issues with black-eyed Susans is that they’re vulnerable to Septorial leaf spot, a fungal disease that causes foliage to wither and die, affecting the plant’s vigor and cutting the flowering season short. However, Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’ is virtually immune to this common disease because its slightly hairy leaves stop moisture from sitting on the foliage, so avoiding the conditions that the fungal spores require.

Named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2023 by the Perennial Plant Association, the excellent disease resistance of ‘American Gold Rush’ means its foliage stays flawless even in humid conditions, and it reliably flowers from July through September and often till the first frost. Growing 1 foot high and 1-2 feet wide in zones 3-8, black-eyed Susan ‘American Gold Rush' is available from Plant Addicts.

2. Best for Flower Density: Black-Eyed Susan Little Goldstar

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Little Goldstar’ boasts the highest bloom density relative to its size, its 16-inch stems smothered with yellow flowers from July to October. It’s estimated that a single plant can produce over 80 blooms, bringing impressive flower power to borders and pots in zones 4-9.

This compact plant grows to 2 feet wide and stays neat, its sturdy, shorter stems resisting the usual late-season black-eyed Susan flop. Highly disease-resistant and drought-tolerant once established, black-eyed Susan ‘Little Goldstar’ is available from Nature Hills.

3. Best for Temperature Extremes: Black-Eyed Susan Glitters Like Gold

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Rudbeckia ‘Glitters Like Gold’ looks very similar to Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’, growing 2-3 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide, but it’s been specifically bred to handle hot, humid summers. It’s also hugely cold-hardy down to -40°F so it can handle life at both ends of the temperature scale in zones 3-9.

With strong disease resistance to Septoria leaf spot and sturdy stems that don’t flop over, this boasts more flowers that bloom for longer than ‘Goldsturm’ too. Black-eyed Susan ‘Glitters Like Gold’ plants are available from Nature Hills.

4. Best for Wildlife: Black-Eyed Susan Deam’s

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If you’re looking for a black-eyed Susan for a wildlife meadow or garden, then Rudbeckia fulgida var. deamii is the one for you. Not a modern cultivar but native to parts of Illinois, Indiana and Ohio, black-eyed Susan 'Deam's' nevertheless holds not just the prestigious Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit but also its Plants for Pollinators recommendation.

The dark central cones of this clump-forming perennial are particularly rich in nectar for pollinators, and produce a heavy load of seed to feed finches through winter. As a native, it’s very adaptable and grows in pretty much any well-drained soil and, though it’s highly drought resistant once established, the trick to lots more fall flowers is to give it a good drink once a week. If you deadhead, it will keep flowering from July to October, though be sure to leave the last flush of blooms intact to form seedheads and keep your garden goldfinches happy. Growing to 2-3 feet high and 1-2 feet wide in zones 4-9, black-eyed Susan Deam’s is available from Plant Addicts.

5. Best for Flower Color: Black-Eyed Susan ‘Blackjack Gold’

(Image credit: Getty Images)

While the yellow petals and dark centers of most black-eyed Susans are joyful enough, the color of Rudbeckia triloba ‘Blackjack Gold’ is particularly intense. Because of its tall but narrow habit (the plant grows 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide in zones 3-8), you can pack plenty of these into a border, too, for a real hit of saturated color.

The flowers are smaller but the densely branched stems carry a profusion from July to October, and those golden petals are enhanced by striking central cones and sturdy stems that carry a red tone.

While Rudbeckia fulgida are long-lived, clump-forming perennials and a pretty-much permanent addition to your garden, Rudbeckia triloba is a shorter-lived perennial but reliably (and gently) self-seeds so you'll never be without it. Black-eyed Susan ‘Blackjack Gold’ plants are available from Plant Addicts.

6. Best for Containers: Black-Eyed Susan Viette’s Little Suzy

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

This compact dwarf variety grows to 12-18 inches high and wide so it’s perfect for a pot. Rudbeckia fulgida Viette’s Little Suzy is heat- and drought-tolerant once established so can handle the more erratic environment of life in a container, and copes well with both humidity and heavy rainfall. This bonny black-eyed Susan has exceptional disease resistance, too, to flower through summer into early fall, making it one of the best perennials for patio pots.

For low-maintenance pots to pretty up your patio or deck, you won’t do better than this little lovely, and it attracts bees and butterflies, too. Black-eyed Susan Viette’s Little Suzy plants are available from Garden Goods Direct.

7. Best for Low-Maintenance: Black-Eyed Susan ‘Treasure Trove’.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Taller black-eyed Susans can require staking to stop them flopping over once fall weather arrives, but not Rudbeckia ‘Treasure Trove’. This is one of those wonderful low-maintenance flowering plants that practically grow themselves. Though it grows to 2-3 feet high and wide, it has a neat, bushy habit with heavily-branched stems, so supports itself well. And yes, those branching stems mean a massive volume of flowers!

It has strong Septoria leaf spot resistance, handles summer heat in zones 4-9, usually resists nibbles from hungry deer and rabbits, and once established, only needs watering in prolonged dry spells. So pretty much all you need do is an occasional deadhead if you want it to keep blooming from July to October. Planted with other low-maintenance heroes like daylilies and goldenrod, this is a great choice for beginner or busy gardeners alike, and black-eyed Susan ‘Treasure Trove’ plants are available from Plant Addicts.

Regular readers will know that my passion for bird bathing has reached such a level that I have given my birdie zone its own special name: Featherspoons (named after a certain UK-based food and drink franchise). I’ve been using this name since spring, as it really encapsulates that cheep-and-cheerful vibe (yes, pun intended). But while I’ve been mostly thrilled with the results of my expanding birding empire, it’s felt like something’s been missing… like I’ve been a few feathers short of the full spoon, as it were.

Don’t get me wrong: my thoughtfully tailored bird zone has responded diligently to the demands of my local feathered buddies. Featherspoons is quite the sight for attracting birds, replete with platform bird feeder, secondary hanging feeder, a recently vacated bird house, a classic pedestal bath, trusty waiting branch, and even a little homemade sign letting the local wildlife know they’ve arrived. So what could possibly be missing, you might well ask?

You could say I’m a “bird bath half empty” kind of gal, because I’m always wondering about the birds I don’t see. For every sparrow splashing merrily, I’ll think about the robin I haven’t seen in weeks. I hate to think there’s something I’ve forgotten that’s keeping those other birdies away. And then it rained for the first time in weeks, and Mr Robin hopped into view, happily sploshing in a puddle. That’s when it hit me: I had cleaned a plant pot tray weeks earlier and forgot to put it back outside. Sometimes, the little things make all the difference for our bird friends. Here’s why…

Why Add a Puddle Bath?

Have you ever wondered why your pedestal bath gets plenty of visits from sassy blue jays, while robins act like it doesn't exist? It turns out height is an issue, even for friends with wings. Some songbirds are total turf lovers. Species like robins, juncos, mourning doves, and northern cardinals do a lot of their hanging out at ground level. In the wild, they seek out rainwater pools. To them, a pedestal bath feels like trying to take a dip on top of a skyscraper: scary, and way too exposed.

(Image credit: Vicki Jauron, Babylon and Beyond Photography / Getty Images)

Then there’s the depth issue. Standard bowls are often way too deep, leaving timid towhees and thrashers feeling literally out of their depth. A ground-level puddle bath fixes all of this, by mimicking the conditions of puddles these birds are naturally hardwired to seek out. Something shallow, like the gorgeous bird-friendly Bakayoyo Shallow Ground Bird Bath Saucer from Amazon works well, and it provides texture for tiny toes.

The beauty of a ground-based splash zone lies in its gently sloped gradient. Starting at a half-inch (1.25cm) depth and gently dipping to an inch (2.5cm) in the middle, it lets tiny sparrows and waddling doves wade in at their own pace and comfort level. Add nearby branches for safety and shelter, in the form of a native staging branch like the stunning Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry Tree from Fast Growing Trees, and you bring a highly naturalistic environment into play. Even northern flickers and purple finches will join the ground-level pool party once word gets out.

Which Puddle Bath is Best?

(Image credit: Joao Roberto Martins Filho / 500px / Getty Images)

Creating a welcoming ground-level splash zone doesn't require a lavish budget or complex installation. In fact, some of the best ground baths are sitting right in your garage, shed, or kitchen. An unglazed terracotta plant saucer is a gift. The rough clay gives wet little toes fantastic grip, and costs next to nothing. If you don’t have any, Vigoro Clay Plant Saucers from The Home Depot are the perfect depth and also frost resistant. Alternatively, flip a small upside-down garbage can lid into the grass, filled with a few handfuls of clean pea gravel. But there’s more…

(Image credit: Andrea Kessler / Getty Images)

Whether you go full DIY or treat your yard to something fancier, keep these golden rules in mind: shallow depth, non-slip texture, and low sides. Slippery bowls are a no-go – unless you throw in a few grippy stones to save the day. I like adding a few flat textured pebbles and rocks, like Simetufy River Rocks from Amazon, which you can color up in your favorite birdie shades. Furthermore, the basin should have a low edge that lets birds survey their surroundings. There are plenty of gorgeous, low-profile options that deliver maximum splash-factor with zero hassle.

Puddle Baths for Low-Level Splashers

High pedestals are great for boisterous bathers like jays and thrushes, but shy types need something closer to the turf. These shallow, ground-level options mimic natural rainwater puddles, giving timid bathers the gentle entry, textured footing, and low-stress environment they instinctively crave.

Earthy Simplicity

Esschert Design Esschert Design Terracotta Saucer Dish, Set of Three

If you want a budget-friendly option that blends seamlessly into flower beds, these mixed-size aged terracotta saucers are a gorgeous basic fix. The natural clay provides built-in traction for wet bird toes, while the textured surface keeps the water cooler on baking summer days. Set it right on the lawn or nestle it into mulch.

Artisanal Puddle

Wayfair Charlton Home® Gabir Celeste Birdbath Bowl

If playful squirrels are flipping over lightweight dishes, this old world concrete basin stays firmly anchored in place and makes a sweet small model for a modest yard space. Styled with pretty vintage patterns, the blue vibe is very soothing and makes the puddle look serene, and the base offers great grip for little birdie feet.

Gentle Basin

Bakayoyo Bakayoyo Shallow Ground Bird Bath Saucer

Elevated pedestal baths are great for main lawns, but this secondary bath helps ground-dwelling towhees, juncos, and sparrows. This shallow saucer is ideal for placing near the base of a serviceberry, as well as a fine choice for balconies. Its textured bottom is kind to small feet: a lovely, low-stress backup for timid bathers.

Where to Put Your Puddle Bath

(Image credit: Ray Kennedy / Getty Images)

This might sound obvious but location is critical, and I don’t just mean nice grass. Ground bathers face unique challenges. A soggy robin can’t pull off a high-speed retreat when danger appears. It’s all about balancing protective cover with open sightlines. Position your basin 10-12 feet (3-3.6m) away from dense shrubbery or thick hedges. This gives cautious bathers clear sightlines to spot cats, but keeps branches close enough to flutter to if startled. For a low-key extra, a nearby trellis like the Red Barrel Studio Garden Trellis from Wayfair adds comfort for finches and sparrows.

(Image credit: Diana Cooper / Getty Images)

Sunlight strategy is another biggie. Because puddle baths are shallow, a full day of sun can turn your dish into a hot or dried-up mud flat. Try to find a cozy pocket that gets bright morning sunshine (perfect for early birds) and dappled canopy shade for scorchio afternoon hours. Nestling the bath alongside sturdy native flowers and mid-height perennials like Native Purple Coneflowers from Plant Addicts gives timid visitors lovely, natural staging to check out the scene before hopping down for a dip.

Also, keep your puddle station well away from your main bird feeders. Falling seed hulls, messy shells and crumbs, and bird droppings will turn clean bathwater into murky soup faster than you can say featherspoons. Give your ground dish its own peaceful corner, away from high-traffic footpaths and lawnmowers, to create the ultimate splash zone for ground-level wildlife.

Puddle Station Extras

(Image credit: Gary W. Carter / Getty Images)

Creating a thriving puddle station is all about building a welcoming community around your ground basin. While the dish itself provides the water source, thoughtful accessories create a multi-sensory magnet for the ultimate poolside lounge. The best way to do this is with moving water. Songbirds rely on sound to locate water sources. The right sparkle and trickle is vital to promoting your splash zone.

(Image credit: Wirestock / Getty Images)

The gentle dancing sprays of the Mademax Solar Powered Floating Fountain Pump from Amazon make it clear to ground bathers that the water is fresh. Or for a more subtle sparkle, the Solar Water Wiggler from Walmart creates quiet, continuous ripples that reassure nervous bathers. As mentioned before, I also like to add a few nicely shaped rocks to the base of the bath. This gives a variety of levels as well as texture and natural footholds, adding extra security for hasty or stumbling bathers.

Moving water features also prevent mosquitoes from laying eggs in your ground basin. By pairing your ground dish with water agitators and a few grippy stones, your ground-level puddle station will quickly become the hottest ticket in town.

High Rise Havens for Bold Bathers

Once your ground-dwelling birds are happily splashing down low, give your chickadees, finches, and jays a glamorous front-row seat! These raised, hanging, and pedestal options double as eye-catching garden focal points while providing a safe, elevated sanctuary for watchful songbirds.

Classic Charm

Best Choice Products Best Choice Products Vintage Fleur-De-Lis Pedestal Bath

If you want an iconic garden look without the heavy lifting of solid stone, this resin pedestal is a winner. It features a fillable base column for rock-solid stability, plus an aged antique finish that makes every backyard feel like a classic picture-perfect cottage garden.

Metallic Glos

Wenbery 10 Inch Iron Hanging Bird Bath Outdoor Yard Bird Bath

A gentle rim is ideal for small feet and this bath creates a lovely splashing sound when paired with an overhead dripper. With its patina finish, this hanging bowl develops a natural aged look while providing elevated safety from ground predators.

Artisanal Pop

MUMTOP Mumtop Hummingbird Glass Bird Bath

For a splash of jewel-toned magic in sunny flower borders, this glass basin holds its own beautifully. While common garden birds will use it more than tiny hummingbirds, its textured interior gives visiting songbirds a surprisingly secure, non-slip footing.

Caring for Your Puddle Bath

(Image credit: BirdImages / Getty Images)

Keeping your new puddle bath sparkling fresh is easy, and a little routine love goes a long way. Because ground dishes are shallow, they warm up quickly under the sun, so giving yours a swift daily splash-and-dash top-off keeps water cool and clean. Once a week, grab a stiff cleaning brush, like the Modanu Ergonomic Heavy-Duty Bird Bath Brush from Walmart, and give the basin a solid scrub with nine parts water and one part plain white vinegar. Skip the harsh household soaps or bleach: nobody wants soapy chemical residue ruining their afternoon feathers.

Create a natural "bug and bath" combo, by planting black-eyed Susans near your dish to attract native beetles and caterpillars. Add clumps of coral bells (heuchera) to act as tiny insect hotels for midges and spiders. When robins and song sparrows finish their bath, they can hop straight into the leaves for a delicious, protein-packed snack. And as an extra safeguard to reduce algae build-up (if you have space), place a copper purifier like the Mellbree Copper Bird Bath Disc from Amazon in the basin. Do all this, and your puddle station will stay the cleanest, happiest hangout on the block.

(Image credit: Tomazl / Getty Images)

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August feels like the end of summer in a lot of ways, but it doesn’t have to be the end of your herb garden. While other plants are fading and only the hardiest fall flowers remain, you can still plant some herbs that will persist well into fall, even up to the first frost.

These common herbs are the best choices for planting now and enjoying several fall harvests. Look for young nursery plants and consider putting them in pots that you can move indoors once it gets too cold. How long these herbs will last depends, of course, on your local weather and climate, but with good care, you can enjoy them for weeks or even months.

Let's dig in and see what you need to be planting now to keep the flavor coming!

1. Parsley

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Parsley is one of the most versatile of all herbs with a fresh, green flavor that is more subtle than others. It’s an herb that actually prefers cooler weather, so now is a good time to start a new plant. Its lush green foliage will remain while plants around it fade and brown.

Give your parsley plant full sun or a spot with a little shade. Keep the soil consistently moist, but don’t let it get soggy. Harvest outer stems as needed to encourage fresh growth well into fall. Find a wide variety of parsley seeds from True Leaf Market.

2. Cilantro

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Like parsley, cilantro prefers the cooler weather of the shoulder season. It tends to bolt in the heat of summer, resulting in lower flavor quality of the leaves. This is a love-it or hate-it kind of herb, but if you’re in the former camp, plant one now.

Full sun or partial shade is ideal for a cilantro plant. Keep the soil moist but ensure it drains well. As with parsley, trim off stems from the outside in to use and encourage fresh growth while decent temperatures persist. Burpee offers organic cilantro seeds for growing your own cilantro to pair perfectly with Asian and Mexican dishes this fall!

3. Chives

(Image credit: Lucy Lambriex / Getty Images)

With a delicate oniony flavor, chives are a great addition to almost any savory dish, including salads, fish, and eggs. Chives not only tolerate cooler weather, but they’re also actually hardy in many climates. Get a plant established now, enjoy it this fall, and, with good care, expect it to emerge again next spring.

Plant chives in full sun or partial shade. Make sure the soil drains well and keep the soil moist as the plant establishes strong roots. Snip off leaves to use as needed, making clean cuts at the base. Don’t harvest too heavily this season if you’re hoping it will come back next year. You can find heirloom chive seeds from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon.

4. Thyme

(Image credit: Robert Kneschke / Shutterstock)

Thyme is a hardy perennial in zones 5 through 9, so plant and get it established now to enjoy this fall, even as temperatures drop, and again next year. The tiny leaves of thyme plants pack a punch and are especially tasty with meats, poultry, tomato dishes, and soups and stews.

You can grow thyme in a container or in beds. Its low profile makes it a good edging plant. Choose a sunny spot and ensure the soil drains very well. Thyme doesn’t like getting too soggy and will tolerate dry conditions very well. Water regularly now to help it get established. You can start harvesting stems this fall, but avoid cutting into woody growth, which won’t regrow. Organic English thyme seeds can be found at the Home Depot.

5. Sage

(Image credit: DUSAN ZIDAR / Shutterstock)

Like thyme, sage is a perennial suited to many climates. It will keep green, usable foliage well into fall and even through the first few light frosts. Sage has a strong flavor, so pair it with foods that can stand up to it, like meats, turkey, buttery pasta dishes, and squash.

Plant sage in full sun in an area that has very good drainage. Water it regularly to get it established and then water only when the soil dries out. You can harvest individual leaves or cut off stems. Add a layer of mulch around the plant to help protect it during winter. Find sage seeds from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon.

6. Mint

(Image credit: Karl Tapales / Getty Images)

Mint is a very easy herb to grow. It is tough and vigorous, spreading and growing rapidly from runners. For this reason, it’s a good option to grow now but only in containers. In beds, mint can quickly run amok. Use mint leaves in desserts, salads, and savory dishes. (You can even burn peppermint like Content Editor Kayleigh Dray to freshen your space and ward off pests).

Mint will tolerate a spot in full sun or partial shade. Keep the soil evenly moist and harvest entire stems to encourage new growth. Consider bringing your mint indoors to enjoy all winter or let it go dormant outside. It will likely come back next year. Peppermint seeds can be purchased from True Leaf Market.

Starting herbs in August is worthwhile if you choose the right ones. While the rest of the garden winds down, these hardy herbs will continue producing tasty leaves for weeks or months.

Keep them well watered, provide some winter protection if needed, and some of these herbs will even come back in the spring.

Some garden plants earn their space in beds and borders twice: first with a showy display of flowers and later, once the flowers have faded, with structural elements that lend a little extra something to look at in fall and winter. These include seedheads, tall stems, interesting foliage, or even winter color.

Many gardens lose visual interest once the blooms are done, but structural plants continue to shine even in fall and winter. When choosing plants for your garden, consider what they’ll look like after the flowers are done. Look for plants, like some of our favorites below, that both bloom and have interesting structure after flowering. For best results, make sure your choices are suited to your USDA zone, soil type, and sun exposure.

1. Sedum

(Image credit: schnuddel/Getty Images)

• Botanical name: Hylotelephium and Sedum
• USDA zones: 3–9
• Light: Full sun
• Soil: Well-drained, on the dry side
• Best for: Rust-red and bronze dried flower heads

Sedum, or stonecrop, is a big family of succulent plants that flower in late summer and fall. They bloom with very small flowers clustered in large, flat-topped heads. Sedum grows best in full sun and well-drained soil that stays mostly dry. While stonecrop flowers are attractive and great for pollinators during the growing season, the plants have more to offer.

In fall, the flower clusters on many sedum varieties change color and dry in place in attractive rust-red, copper, or bronze shades perfect for the season. Additionally, the fleshy leaves provide ongoing visual interest, so resist cutting this pretty perennial back in the autumn. Let it shine, even in winter, as snow collects on its dried blooms.

For a standout variety, try Autumn Joy sedum, pictured above and currently on sale at Trees.com. Its large flower heads open pink in late summer before deepening to coppery-red and eventually drying to brown for winter interest. For something different, Back in Black sedum, available from Plant Addicts, pairs near-black foliage with pale flowers and persistent seedheads, while Mr. Goodbud, available from Nature Hills, has huge, richly colored flower heads on sturdy reddish stems.

2. Coneflower

(Image credit: Katarzyna Derbich / Shutterstock)

• Botanical name: Echinacea
• USDA zones: 3–9
• Light: Full sun
• Soil: Well-drained
• Best for: Sculptural seedheads that feed birds

Always popular in gardens for its tall, elegant stalks and striking summer blooms, coneflower is a native plant that supports pollinators, birds, and other wildlife. It’s a great addition to beds and naturalized areas where it thrives in full sun and well-drained soil.

Don’t be quick to cut back the stems after coneflowers have faded. They’re about to put on the second act of their show. The cone-shaped seedheads remain atop the tall stems, feeding birds and also providing striking structural interest in beds. These act like winter yard sculptures, so leave them in place until warmer weather returns.

For the classic look pictured above, try purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), available from Walmart, with its familiar pink-purple petals and prominent orange-brown cones. For more color, Cheyenne Spirit coneflower, available from Garden Goods Direct, produces flowers in a vibrant mix of red, orange, yellow, cream, and purple. If you want to grow a larger drift economically, this coneflower seed mixed color pack from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon is an easy way to get plants started.

3. Sea Holly

(Image credit: Alexmak72427 / Getty Images)

• Botanical name: Eryngium
• USDA zones: 5–9
• Light: Full sun
• Soil: Dry, well-drained, even sandy
• Best for: Spiky, sculptural dried flower heads

Sea holly is a unique non-native perennial that grows well in zones 5 through 9 in full sun and well-drained, even sandy soil. It blooms in summer and fall with silvery blue, thistle-like flowers. These flowers, as well as their bracts, dry prettily in place once the growing season is over, leaving behind sculptural flower heads atop stiff, structural stems.

For particularly vivid color, try Big Blue sea holly, available from Plant Addicts, with large, intensely blue flower heads and matching spiky bracts. Another striking option is Blue Glitter, available from Walmart, which produces masses of smaller steel-blue blooms on branching stems and is especially good for cutting and drying.

4. Ornamental Alliums

(Image credit: Joe Kuis / Shutterstock)

• Botanical name: Allium
• USDA zones: 4–9, depending on variety
• Light: Full sun
• Soil: Well-drained
• Best for: Striking spherical seedheads

These ornamental relatives of culinary onions are favorites in garden beds for their unique, spherical flower heads that tower over other flowers. They’re also easy to grow, requiring only full sun and a spot with soil that drains well. Once established, they don’t need a lot of water to thrive.

Alliums bloom in spring and early summer, but don’t cut them down when they’re done flowering. The spherical seedheads will remain in place, providing an interesting sculptural element to your bed. They look good long after the flowers have faded and can even last into winter if the stems remain upright and in good condition.

For a dramatic display, try the pictured Gladiator allium, available from Walmart, with huge purple globes held high on sturdy stems and attractive dried heads after flowering. For something a little different, Bobblehead allium, available from Plant Addicts, produces pale lilac globes followed by perfectly spherical seedheads, while drumstick allium (Allium sphaerocephalon), available from Burpee has smaller burgundy-purple flower heads that bring a more delicate, naturalistic effect to borders.

5. Jerusalem Sage

(Image credit: Alamy)

• Botanical name: Phlomis
• USDA zones: 5–10
• Light: Full sun
• Soil: Dry, well-drained
• Best for: Architectural, pom-pom-like seedheads

Jerusalem sage – often known as Turkish sage or its botanical name phlomis – is a small shrub native to the dry climate of the Mediterranean. In zones 5 to 7, it is deciduous but evergreen in zones 8 through 10. Give it a sunny spot with dry soil, and it will thrive and bloom with yellow flowers in summer.

Phlomis offers a dramatic architectural and visual effect in fall and winter if you leave the seedheads in place. The flowers grow on tall spikes, and when they fade and set seed, you’re left with interesting pom-pom-like structures that look like beautiful yard art. Even without evergreen foliage, the dried stems also add to the visual appeal of this unique plant.

For a particularly architectural choice, try Phlomis russeliana, available from US Perennials. Its pale yellow flowers appear in distinctive tiers up sturdy stems, leaving behind sculptural seedheads that can provide interest well into winter.

6. Astilbe

(Image credit: Chamomile_Olya / Shutterstock)

• Botanical name: Astilbe
• USDA zones: 3–9
• Light: Partial shade
• Soil: Rich, moist, well-drained
• Best for: Feathery dried plumes in tan and bronze

Astilbe is a small, shade-tolerant perennial with feathery plumes of summer flowers in shades of pink, purple, white, and red. Partial shade is ideal for astilbe, but it will tolerate full shade or even more sun. The soil should be rich and moist.

The pretty flowers will have faded by late summer, but leave them on the plants. They retain their feathery shape and texture as they dry to muted tan and bronze colors, bringing visual interest and lightness to shady beds and borders.

For a similar frothy pink display to the picture above, try Younique Silvery Pink astilbe, available from Plant Addicts, which produces masses of soft, feathery pink plumes. For something more dramatic, Dark Side of the Moon, also from Plant Addicts, pairs rosy-purple flowers with striking chocolate-brown foliage, while Fanal, also at Plant Addicts is a compact choice with rich red plumes. Leave the faded flower heads standing to provide texture and interest later in the year.

7. Ornamental Grasses

(Image credit: Inna Reznik / Shutterstock)

• Botanical name: Varies by species
• Light: Usually full sun, with a few exceptions
• Soil: Varies; most prefer well-drained soil
• Best for: Airy seedheads, texture, and winter movement

You can hardly go wrong with any type of ornamental grass for visual interest at any time of year. These grasses grow in clumps, some strictly upright, others with an arching shape. Some grow several feet tall, while others grow much shorter, giving you options for beds, borders, privacy screens, and even containers.

Grasses aren’t known for their flowers, although they do bloom with feathery flower heads in summer. In fall and winter, the blades, airy seedheads, and movement in the wind all offer great visual appeal. As long as they remain upright and in good condition, leave your ornamental grasses in place and wait to trim them next spring.

For some of the best varieties, try pink muhly grass, pictured above and currently on sale at Trees.com, which produces clouds of pink flowers in fall before fading to soft tan. Little bluestem adds coppery fall color and fluffy silver seedheads – in particular, Standing Ovation little bluestem, available from Plant Addicts, is prized for its strong, upright habit. ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass, available in a three-pack from Walmart, is a great choice for tall, upright structure that lasts well into winter. For a shadier spot, try All Gold Japanese forest grass, available from Plant Addicts, which brings graceful, arching foliage and bright golden color to beds that receive less sun.

Shop Structural Beauties

Plants That Work Mr. Goodbud Sedum

Cheyenne Spirit Coneflower

CZ Grain Blue Glitter Sea Holly – 3 Plugs

Mappe Garden Gladiator Allium Bulbs – 5 Pack

Younique Silvery Pink Astilbe

Proven Selections All Gold Japanese Forest Grass

Take inspiration from this list and find plants that work for your garden and that provide more than just summer flowers. Consider how any plant will look after its colorful blooms fade to get more year-round visual interest.

For the best results when planning a garden that goes beyond the standard growing season, consider diversity. Use a mix of textures, like a combination of airy ornamental grasses with spiky sea holly. Create layers with short, medium, and tall plants. And don’t forget containers. They can also add to the fall and winter landscape with versatile, interesting plants. Choosing plants based on their entire life cycle creates a garden that remains interesting long after the blooms peak.

There is something magical about adding moving water to your outdoor living space. Ponds come and go in terms of popularity but the newer trend of pondless moving water is an exciting garden addition. Not only does it capture a bit of nature in our own backyard, it adds soothing sound, introduces motion to the landscape and attracts wildlife to our homes. To gain a greater understanding of how folks can incorporate these unique features into their gardens, I had the pleasure of speaking with Diego Fontana, co-owner, along with his business partner Dan Paterson, of Fontana Ponds and Water Features.

My first question was about the environmental impact of these pieces. With the increasing severity of heat and drought in our area, the addition of self-contained water, surrounded by trees and plants would seem like a positive addition. Fontana mentioned that the most delightful benefit was the attraction of natural wildlife, from frogs and other semi-aquatic species like salamanders, to birds and beneficial insects. A year-round water source within a natural setting is amazing. The obvious cooling effect, especially in today’s heat , is most welcome, as is the mitigation of urban noise pollution.

Working within today’s many smaller space gardens is always a challenge, and I was curious to know how much space was needed to accommodate one of these moving water landscape features. Fontana said they have designs to fit comfortably in an area as small as two metres by two metres. These models may include pre-drilled gurglers with stone covered water reservoirs which still add all the elements of moving water.

Are permits required for installations? He said if it’s simply a pondless system with no deep water, no permits are required. For larger projects, homeowners should check with their local authority to see what is needed.

Today’s water pumps are much more efficient and use far less electricity. Without knowing the pump size, it was hard to give a sense of electrical costs, but as a rule of thumb, running smaller installations for extended periods may cost about a dollar a day, while large pond systems may cost around $80 a month.

Do these systems require a great deal of maintenance? Fontana emphasized the simplicity of keeping the reservoir clear of debris. A weekly leaf blowing around the reservoir area is all that’s required. Since we’re dealing with contained water, it’s important to control algae, but with applications of organic beneficial bacteria, clear water can be maintained in an environmentally friendly way.

Our winters in the Lower Mainland are normally reasonably mild, so I asked if these pondless water systems could keep running all winter. He said -15C is the tipping point for these features and when some maintenance would need to take place. The key to success is to create a deeper and better protected reservoir to keep the water flowing and safeguard the pump. It’s also not a bad idea to use protective coverings over the reservoir when we do get those cold spells.

The streams and waterfalls take on a whole new winter complexion with frozen water droplets and icicles forming but it’s also important to keep the fountain running as a water source for birds and other wildlife. In extreme cold, however, the system is designed to be shut down if necessary.

Once the water system is in place and fully functional, the beauty of trees, shrubs, perennials, and even annuals can be added. Plants have a way of further enhancing the attractiveness of the water and stones. As a rule of thumb, try to use plants which are evergreen, or broadleaf evergreens, to prevent dying fall foliage from cluttering up the water landscape.

Sunny or shady locations are key considerations when determining the types of plants being used. He prefers a shady location simply because of fewer algae issues, but emphasized how either location can be equally beautiful.

In the case of open water features, there are an abundance of water plants which can live year-round to enhance your water garden. Evergreen plants like sedums, or shrubs like trailing cotoneasters gently spilling over rocks above would add a welcome touch of greenery.

The cost of planning and installation varies, of course, with the scope of each project. Their website, fontanawaterfeatures.ca , provides details and a great deal of information on installations to give you a sense of pricing. They also provide online videos which offer further insight into the possibilities of adding your own water feature.

Their systems have become very popular and, depending upon the size of the project and the time of year, there may be a three to four month timeline from the initial consultation to completion.

Whether you have a well-established landscape or you’re just beginning to garden, the addition of water in its many unique forms adds life and vibrancy to your outdoor living space. Fontana also mentioned how seniors’ homes have benefited from the addition of these lush water displays in their landscapes, as they create an important connection to nature and provide a calming area to enjoy year-round.

I am truly grateful for the time Fontana spent educating me, and for the inspiring work their team does to add magic to landscapes. The versatility and motion of pondless water systems makes any green space come alive and generate, in many ways, a sense of intimacy. It’s a creative way to take your outdoor living space to the next level, and one you would enjoy for years to come.

Related

• Brian Minter: The standout plants at Cultivate Expo you'll want to add to your garden
• The ultimate day trip itinerary to Chilliwack from Vancouver

The world’s largest human composting facility just opened for business in Maryland, offering organic reduction as an alternative to traditional burial and cremation. Capable of composting 2,000 humans a year, Earth Funeral’s new 37,000 square foot facility has 126 individual vessels where bodies are turned into soil. A body yields around 250-300 pounds of nutrient-rich soil – that’s around 7 regular retail sacks of compost – and personal testimonies on Earth Funeral's website show the many ways gardeners are using the nutrient-rich soil to remember their loved ones.

Dianne Stanciel from New Jersey added some soil from her husband, Kenneth, to a houseplant – ironically, a struggling houseplant Kenneth hadn’t liked – that’s now thriving. In Washington, Emily spread some of the soil composted from her husband of 53 years, Wayne, on the circle garden of azaleas and wild strawberries they’d created together. Kimberly has signed up for a prepaid plan and given her husband instructions to use her soil among the camellias, lemon trees and Japanese maples growing in the yard she’s nurtured for the past 18 years.

And it begs the question, would you like to be part of your garden forever?

(Image credit: Earth Funeral)How Are Humans Composted?

In the new Maryland facility, the body is wrapped in a biodegradable shroud and laid along with wildflowers on natural mulch and wood chips in a sealed stainless steel vessel (pictured below). With levels of carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and water balanced to create ideal conditions for naturally-occuring microbes to break the organic material down on a molecular level, the mix is composted into soil over 30-45 days. Temperatures reach over 130°F, killing any harmful pathogens, and the soil is independently tested to make sure it’s safe for plants and animals as well as humans.

(Image credit: Earth Funeral)

The compost retains 90% of the body's nutrients, forming an enriched soil full of the components gardeners will recognise from any fertilizer sack. Nitrogen from body proteins fuels leafy growth and supports photosynthesis; phosphorous from bones and DNA promotes root development, flowering and fruiting; and potassium from cellular fluids increases drought resilience. Plant and soil structure is enhanced with calcium from bones, and trace minerals support key plant functions such as chlorophyll formation.

Families can choose the volume of nutrient-rich soil they wish to keep, and the remainder is donated for use in a local conservation project.

Is Human Composting Legal?

It’s probably best to mention that human composting is only legal if done through a licensed premises, but even then, it’s only legal in 14 states. However, transferring bodies interstate by air or ground transport to these states for human composting is permitted across all 50 states, as long as it’s done by licensed professionals and a transit permit is obtained. It’s also legal for the soil to be shipped back to you, making this service available nationwide.

Can Human Compost be Used in the Garden?

Soil created from human remains looks no different from regular garden compost. It's full of nutrients, so rather than using it as a standalone potting soil, think of it as a soil improver. Mix it at a ratio of 10-20% into garden soil or with container potting soil, or use it as a nutritious mulch.

(Image credit: Earth Funeral)

As long as a body is legally composted, and the resulting compost safety-tested, soil created through a terramation process can be used in gardens in many states, but local restrictions vary. While it's prohibited to use human-composted soil to grow crops in some states, most allow the entire volume of soil to be taken home for personal use, whether that’s in a flower bed or to plant a memorial garden or tree. Do check what your locality allows, as even states where human composting has been legalized can have very particular exemptions. For example, in New York soil can only be used in dedicated cemetery grounds or conservation sites.

Selling the soil, using it in a commercial venture or spreading it on public land or someone else’s property without permission from the landowner is banned in most states.

(Image credit: Earth Funeral)The Rise of Human Composting

The USA is pioneering the process of soil transformation, also known as terramation and natural organic reduction, which first became legal in Washington in May 2020. Elsewhere in the world, a small pilot project is underway in Germany, human composting by freeze-drying is legal (though not operational) in Sweden, and terramation is under consideration in UK and Australia. With human composting now legal in 14 American states, the US is the only country to offer this end of life option on a widespread basis.

As the first state to legalize human composting, most operations are based in Washington. Earth Funeral opened its first facility here in 2020, and other end-of-life organic reduction companies that operate nationally from Washington state include Return Home in Auburn and Recompose in Seattle. While Earth Funeral’s second site in Nevada also served the West, its new East Coast hub (pictured below) in Elkridge, Maryland, marks clear confidence in the trend for human composting.

(Image credit: Earth Funeral)

This East Coast facility is by far the largest of its kind in the world, showing that human composting is now moving beyond a niche concept to become an increasingly popular alternative to burial, green burial or cremation.

How Do You Feel About Being Composted?

Sustainability is a strong factor driving the human composting trend. Burial can leach chemical embalming fluids into the ground, while cremation has high energy needs. Earth Funeral cites that its human composting process has a net CO2 emission of zero, compared to a typical cremation rating of 535 pounds.

With prices starting from around $6,000, the cost is comparable to that of a burial, green burial or cremation, too. But perhaps the real driver of end of life composting is its personal nature. Depending on your state rules, human composting allows you to return as soil to your yard, or to the gardens of your loved ones – perhaps as part of a legacy garden or used to plant a remembrance tree – or physically contribute to a conservation effort.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Roses to Remember

Roses grow so well in nutrient-rich soil and make an enduring tribute to a lost loved one.

Bring Me Sunshine

Yellow is symbolic of happy times and this reflowering English shrub rose has wonderfully fragrant blooms. Grows 4’ high and wide, zones 5-11.

Crazy Love Sunbelt

With petals that turn from copper and gold to soft peach and pink, this unique rebloomer is one of a kind. Grows 5’ high and 3’ wide, zones 5-9.

Dancing in the Dark

Red symbolizes deep love and remembrance, and this bewitching beauty blooms from spring till fall. Grows 4’ high and 3’ wide, zones 5-9.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

I love my in-laws. Really, I do. But when you share a boundary, there's something to be said for a little greenery between you, and that's where my blue passionflower (Passiflora caerulea) comes in.

Every year it races across my fence, covering it in lush foliage and extraordinary blue-and-white flowers, turning what was once an ordinary boundary into a living privacy screen. And when I say it's fast, I mean it is fast. Give it something to climb and it gets to work, scrambling up fences and trellises with startling levels of enthusiasm.

Every spring and summer, mine bursts back into life, quickly transforming a very visible fence into a lush green wall. Which, considering my brother-in-law and his girlfriend live on the other side, is no small thing. Honestly, I genuinely love having them next door... but I also love the fact that this clever passionflower makes it so I no longer feel like we're sharing quite the same garden.

And that's not all, folks!

Why I Let My Passionflower Take Over My Fence Every Summer

Yes, there's another reason I love my passionflower: it is tough. Mine has sailed through heat and drought, carrying on growing while other plants have looked decidedly sorry for themselves. It's deciduous, so it disappears over winter, but every spring it comes roaring back as though nothing happened, ready to cover the fence all over again.

Then there are the fruits! Those bright orange fruits that appear after flowering are another reason I love having the birth month vine for September babies around – and, yes, they're edible when fully ripe (although they're unlikely to become the stars of your fruit bowl).

Shop Passionflower Essentials:

Urban Meadow Nursery Passiflora Incarnata Maypop Live Plant, Purple Passionflower Plant, Well Rooted 4 to 6 Inc Tall for Home Garden

First on the list of passionflower essentials? The plant itself, of course, and this live plant is a great way to do it!

GIVE SUPPORT

Expandable Garden Trellis

This expandable trellis can fit almost any space and gives your climbers an excellent support to climb up.

A HELPING HAND

Plant Support Clips

Plant support clips are incredibly helpful in training your passionfruit vine to continue growing up.

My toddler, of course, has developed her own relationship with them. Every time the fruit appears at exactly her height, she methodically squishes every single one she can reach into garden mush.

Honestly, though, it's hard to complain. The passionflower provides the privacy, the bees get the flowers, she gets an extremely satisfying sensory activity, and I get to enjoy one of the hardest-working plants in my garden. Everyone's a winner!

(Image credit: Kayleigh Dray/Future PLC)

Of course, the passionflower is is a vigorous vine, so it needs something sturdy to climb and the occasional prune if you don't want it wandering absolutely everywhere. Still, though, that's a small price to pay for all the benefits it promises, and that's the magic of it. It isn't just a pretty climber or ; it's a fast-growing privacy screen, a pollinator magnet, an occasional source of edible fruit and a remarkably tough survivor – all wrapped up in one gloriously unruly vine.

And if it happens to blur the boundary between us just enough to make the garden feel a little more peaceful? Well, I wouldn't have it any other way.

Summer is a beautiful time of the year but it's an incredibly tough season for your lawn. From sunny weather drying out the blades to increased foot traffic stamping your grass down more than usual, it has to withstand a lot of wear and tear.

Now fall is only around the corner (somehow!), it's a good time to begin thinking about how to assist your grass in its recovery. Not only will this help your lawn to look better, but it'll help it survive the cooling temperatures as the end of the year rolls in.

I asked an assortment of lawn and soil experts for their top product recommendations for fixing frazzled grass so you have an easy go-to guide to get the job done. Rest assured your grass will more than likely be able to U-turn with ease.

The Most Common Reasons for Frazzled Grass in Summer

These are the most common reasons grass suffers in the summer. It's important to consider which of these may apply to your lawn so you know what problems you're trying to remedy:

• Drought stress and/or underwatering
• Heat stress
• Diseases from increased humidity levels
• Over-mowing
• Soil compaction from increased foot traffic
• Lack of airflow
• More pests

Product Recommendations From the Pros

Spear & Jackson Traditional Stainless Steel Digging Fork

Angelika Zaber, a lawn care specialist and gardening specialist at Online Turf chatted to me about the importance of aerating a lawn after heavy foot traffic and recommended the Spear & Jackson Digging Fork for the job.

She explained: "The increased foot traffic that summer brings can cause soil compaction, making it harder for grass to get the oxygen, water, and nutrients that it needs. Hard ground can also create a physical barrier for the roots, blocking them from spreading."

This product works to loosen up soil by being repeatedly stabbed into your lawn's soil, helping your frazzled grass to better be able to breathe.

The Spear & Jackson Digging Fork is a great buy too for its versatility. When it's not needed for aerating you can also use it for turning over soil or breaking up compacted ground.

Core Aerator Lawn Tool With Non-Clogging Hollow Tine

If your grass is incredibly frazzled, Angelika recommends opting for a plug lawn aerator like this Ergonomic Core Aerator Tool as an alternative to a classic model that simply pushes into the soil.

This tool makes larger holes in the soil by removing plugs of soil, allowing water and nutrients to better penetrate the soil and reach the roots of your frazzled grass.

Angelika elaborated: "Plug aeration uses hollow tubes to remove small plugs of soil. These can then be left on the lawn to break down and act as a natural fertilizer, giving your lawn a little nutrient boost.

"Because the holes created are bigger, it allows water, oxygen, and nutrients reach deeper into the ground. This method is best for heavily compacted soil."

Dr.meter Soil Moisture Meter

Summer sun and heat dry out your yard's soil fast, resulting in browning or yellowing grass. Using a soil moisture meter like the Dr.meter model will help you to be able to gauge when your grass could use a good drink.

As Angelika notes: "Hot temperatures and longer days also mean that water is evaporating much quicker from the soil, causing your lawn to dry out more easily. Some of the signs that your lawn is struggling include grass turning yellow or brown, slow growth, and feeling dry and brittle underfoot."

It's best to place your moisture meter somewhere central if your yard isn't shaded, or to purchase two so one can be placed in the sun and another in the shade if your yard receives differing levels of sunlight.

Scotts Turf Builder Rapid Grass Sun & Shade Mix

Frazzled grass needs to be remedied from the source: the soil it's in. Therefore a quality lawn fertilizer will do just the trick when it comes to revamping your grass and its lease of life, making it grow back more lush as well as stronger to fend itself from diseases and pests.

As Ramy Colfer Ph.D, Vice President of Research & Development and Agronomy at True Organic Products, Inc., explains: "The healthiest lawns aren't created by forcing rapid green growth, they're built by improving the soil. Organic lawn fertilizers feed the biology beneath your feet, helping develop stronger roots, better drought tolerance, and healthier turf that naturally performs better throughout the season."

The Scott's Turf Sun and Shade Mix is a great option if you're looking to fertilize and overseed your lawn at the same time, as the bag contains a mixture of nutrient-rich fertilizer and grass seed.

Though Ramy swears by the True Organic Lawn food in Liquid Form and Granular Form for de-frazzling your grass. Both are designed to nourish the soil while providing balanced nutrition for thicker, greener, more resilient lawns.

Uptthow Grass Gauge Tool

A common reason why grass becomes frazzled in the summer is because it's mowed all the time. As a result, the roots of the grass become more shallow, pulled up closer to the surface of the soil from repeated exposure to lawn mower blades.

Ramy also adds: ""Scalping" the lawn is one of the fastest ways to stress turf during summer. Short grass exposes the soil to more sunlight, causing moisture to evaporate faster while allowing weeds to gain a foothold."

Using a grass gauge like this one from Amazon can help to hold you accountable before you decide it's time to give the grass another chop. Simply insert it somewhere into your yard's soil and the gauge will tell you when your grass is getting on the longer side.

We have all heard the old saying “good fences make good neighbors,” but lawyers still get asked a lot of questions about the legality of fencing. A “good” fence is one that both neighbors agree is beneficial, but problems arise when opinions differ.

When one neighbor’s fence ideas differ from the preferences of the person living next door, the question a lawyer hears is usually: Is it legal? Unfortunately, this is usually hashed out after the fact, when the controversial fence is already standing. If you are considering screening your yard with a privacy fence, it’s important to know the laws first, including height and setback requirements, as well as the “spite fence” concept that can transform a fence into a private nuisance.

I tackle this question (and others in my Gardening Lawyer series) by drawing on my experience as both a gardener and former attorney.

The Problem with Fences

The first fences were built some 7,000 years ago as humans abandoned the nomadic life and settled into fixed farming communities. Fences were useful for keeping domesticated livestock in and wild animals out. Today, fences in urban areas are not often related to livestock or crops.

Fencing has become a way of defining property ownership and creating privacy and security. And the areas fenced today are often postage-stamp-size city lots rather than untold acres of ranchland. That means that fencing can and does have a direct impact on neighbors. A tall, solid fence can cut off a view and reduce sunshine to an adjoining property, as well as make both parcels look smaller.

It’s perhaps no surprise that property boundaries are a common source of disputes: in a FindLaw survey, 17 percent of Americans who reported a neighbor dispute said it involved a property boundary.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)What Does the Law Allow?

One of the reasons that fence issues cause disputes is that there are many levels of regulation – including state laws, city codes, and even HOA or subdivision rules. And laws vary from state to state and even from one urban area to another. That makes it difficult to figure out what law applies.

But it’s critical to know the laws that apply to the installation of a new fence and whether a permit is required. Ask at the local building department to get started. Or contact a local attorney.

Is It a Spite Fence?

Have you heard of a spite fence? It’s not a term that comes up frequently in conversation, but it is still a concept in the law. A spite fence is a fence built by one homeowner – not for any beneficial use, but simply to annoy or harass a neighbor. The fence might be excessively tall or unsightly, but the element that makes it a spite fence is the malicious intent behind it.

How does a spite fence anger a neighbor?

• It might be so tall that it reduces the light to the neighboring property. (Some states have laws that define a spite fence as a structure exceeding a certain height – 10 feet in California, for example – that lacks a proper purpose.)
• The side of the fence facing the neighbor might be so ugly that it ruins the peace and beauty of the neighbor’s backyard.
• The fence might be placed in a way that blocks the neighbor’s view.
• The fence might be tall enough to cut off light and air from the neighbor’s yard.

Courts will consider the effect the fence has on the neighbor’s property and will also look at whether it provides a benefit to the person who built it. Another factor courts consider is the timing of the fence. If the neighbors had a dispute about something, and the next day the fence was constructed, it could give the impression that the fence was built for malicious purposes.

If a fence appears to be constructed to annoy a neighbor, that neighbor can take legal action. They can ask the court to declare the fence a private nuisance, order it to be removed or shortened, and award damages for loss of enjoyment of the property. This is not a pleasant event for anyone, so those constructing fences should take every step possible to avoid a spite-fence lawsuit.

(Image credit: Elenaleonova / Getty Images)Tips for Avoiding a Fence Problem

• Think long and hard before making a decision to build a fence. Keep a notebook of what you’re thinking about, whether it is a safety issue, a way to keep your dogs from wandering, or a question of privacy around your swimming pool. Consider alternatives.
• Find out what rules and regulations your state, city, and subdivision have in place that apply to fence construction.
• Talk to a contractor to get their thoughts on the height required for your purposes (and allowed in your region) as well as the different types of fencing that might meet your needs. It’s also worth measuring the proposed fence line carefully; a 100-foot-long measuring tape, like this Amazon Basics tape, will make it easier to calculate the length of fencing required and map out where it will sit.
• Talk to your neighbors and share the reasons you want to put in a fence. Don’t ask for their permission, but ask for their understanding. Tell them your thoughts about how high you need the fence to be and the material you plan to use, and get their thoughts. Share the sketch of what it will look like.
• Listen to any concerns they express and determine – with your contractor – whether you can accommodate any of them while still accomplishing your purpose.
• Get a permit, if required.
• Give the neighbor a heads-up a few days before construction begins.

Remember, good fences might not make good neighbors, but good neighbors should only make good fences. Do your best to accommodate your neighbor and include them in the discussions, and you’ll reduce the risk of ending up in a “spite fence” dispute.

More from the Gardening Lawyer

• Can You Cut Your Neighbor’s Tree If It Hangs Over Your Yard?
• Can an HOA Fine You For Weeds in Your Yard?
• If Your Tree Falls Into a Neighbor’s Yard, Who Pays for the Damage?
• Can You Take Garden Plants With You When You Move House?
• Is Your Neighbor's Tree Blocking the Sunlight in Your Yard? Here’s What You Can (and Can’t) Do About It

As your summer annuals fade and you start to cut back perennials, tough weeds will take the opportunity to fill in the gaps left behind. What you need is to fill those spaces with something even tougher.

Ground covers are low-growing plants that will fill empty areas with attractive foliage. They’ll shade the ground and compete with weeds. August is a good time to start planting ground covers, as they have time to establish roots before winter. Make sure you water them well to speed this process along and ensure success.

These are some of the best ground cover plants to prevent weeds now and that you can enjoy next year, too.

1. Creeping Phlox

(Image credit: bazilfoto / Getty Images)

Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) is a low, mat-forming perennial that creates a dense carpet of evergreen or semi-evergreen foliage. While prized for its abundant and colorful spring flowers, creeping phlox is also attractive long after the blooms fade.

The dense growth of this phlox does a good job of shading out weeds. The evergreen leaves continue to do the job into fall and provide some winter color. Plant creeping phlox in a sunny spot in well-drained soil and allow space between plants to allow them to grow and spread.

For an elegant twist, try this white creeping phlox called 'Amazing Grace' from American Meadows.

2. Creeping Thyme

(Image credit: Laszlo Podor / Getty Images)

Another great creeping plant for this job is creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum). This is a very tough perennial that grows well even in poor conditions, making it an excellent competitor for weeds. There are bonuses too: an attractive aroma, evergreen foliage, and pretty little summer flowers. This thyme is also deer-resistant and can take some foot traffic.

Creeping thyme is very easy to grow and spreads readily. It needs a sunny location and soil that drains very well. It can even grow in rocky or sandy soil and has excellent drought tolerance. Plant creeping thyme in rock gardens, around pavers, and along pathway borders.

Late summer to early fall is the perfect time to sow creeping thyme seeds, which you can get in bulk on Amazon, to fill in large areas of your landscape with this fragrant ground cover.

3. Bugleweed

(Image credit: Katerynap / Getty Images)

Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans) grows low to the ground and spreads rapidly by runners. It grows very vigorously and is good at outcompeting weeds. This means it can also be a nuisance, so grow bugleweed in areas where aggressive spread won’t cause issues or keep an eye on runners. Pull up unwanted runners as needed during the growing season.

Bugleweed has glossy green leaves that are evergreen or semi-evergreen and spikes of purple flowers that bloom in summer. Grow this ground cover in full sun or partial shade, depending on the type. Plant in well-drained soil, but water regularly all fall to get bugleweed established.

'Burgundy Glow' bugleweed from Home Depot is a lovely option for the fall garden with its reddish foliage.

4. Creeping Jenny

(Image credit: HHelene / Getty Images)

Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) is similar to bugleweed in that it is easy to grow but can be a rapidly spreading nuisance if you’re not careful. However, its rapid, creeping growth is a great way to manage weeds in tricky areas. Also known as moneywort, the leaves are bright and round, resembling coins. Small yellow flowers bloom for a short period in summer.

Creeping Jenny can grow in full sun or partial shade. It prefers soil that stays consistently moist, so it’s a good option for wetter areas where other ground covers might struggle. Water well after planting creeping Jenny and manage its spread by redirecting or removing stems that get into areas you don’t want them.

You can get a 4-pack of creeping Jenny plants from the Home Depot to fill in large garden beds fast.

5. Wild Ginger

(Image credit: Alamy)

Wild ginger (Asarum canadense) is a good choice if you prefer to plant native species. This is a woodland perennial native to the eastern U.S. Don’t let the name fool you, though. This is not culinary ginger. It’s a low-growing herbaceous plant with kidney-shaped leaves that are naturally dark green. You can also find cultivars with different colors.

This is an excellent native ground cover option for managing weeds in shady areas. Grow wild ginger under trees or in shady beds where the soil is rich and moist but also drains well. Make sure it gets enough water after planting and well into the fall before it goes dormant.

Wild ginger plants can be a bit difficult to find in stores, but you can buy bare root plants on Etsy from Cane Creek Meadows.

6. Bunchberry

(Image credit: shakzu / Getty Images)

Another native option is bunchberry (Cornus canadensis). It is a woodland plant, so it is also another choice for shady areas. It’s also good for northern gardeners, as it is hardy to zone 3. The leaves create a broad canopy that shades the ground very well, keeping weeds down.

In addition to the green leaves that turn shades of red and purple in fall, bunchberry blooms with striking white bracts in spring and develops bunches of bright red berries later in the season.

Bunchberry needs a cool spot in shade or partial shade with soil that will stay consistently moist. Water the plants regularly this season to help them get established. This is especially important in the late summer heat.

You can find bunchberry plants for sale online from White Flower Farm.

Whatever you do, don’t leave your beds wide open this fall. They’ll be vulnerable to weeds that are tough to dig out later. A pretty ground cover won’t totally solve the problem, but it will reduce it. So give your new plants the right start with a weed-free bed, plenty of water to get established, and a layer of mulch.

• RATING: Easy
• TIME: 10 minutes
• REWARD: Bigger, better rose blooms next year

When a rose is under stress, it often produces suckers that steal food and water from your plant, resulting in fewer, smaller flowers next year. August is a prime time for rose suckers to form, and you can bet your bottom dollar that after this hot, dry El Niño summer, your rose plants are feeling pretty stressed right now. So, the chances of them growing some pesky rogue suckers? Sky high.

The problem with rose suckers is that they grow from a part of the plant that can produce very vigorous growth, so if you leave them to grow they can quickly take over, starving the flowering stems. But it’s an easy 10-minute job to remove rose suckers, even if you’re a beginner gardener, and then your plant can direct all its energy into growing the stems that will support next year’s flowers instead.

Ready for this important element of August rose care? Here’s exactly how to prune rose suckers.

Why Rose Suckers are a Problem

Most modern roses are a result of grafting (fusing) a rose variety with the desired flowers onto the root system of a different, far more enthusiastic rose variety. So, the top of the plant is one rose variety, and the bottom is another variety. This achieves the happy combination of beauty and strength and a plant that produces exquisite blooms month after month and survives winter unscathed.

However, the problem with stress-induced rose suckers is that they emerge from the other rose variety that has its roots sunk into the ground. That means the suckers are vigorous and grow quickly, using up a lot of energy and overtaking the main stems. Leave them be and they will flower – but you won’t get blooms like those on the main plant, but flowers from the other variety. Because this rootstock variety has been chosen for its vigor and not its ornamental value, these will likely be small, single-petaled flowers in a pale pink, white or plain red.

Those suckers can be so boisterous that they can starve the main plant entirely – and that's why getting rid of suckers is such an important part of summer rose care.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)How to Get Rid of Rose Suckers in August1. Find the Knobble on the Main Stem

(Image credit: Getty Images)

All grafted roses have a thick, swollen section low down on the main stem, right at the base. This might be just above the soil surface or a couple of inches below it, so you may need to scrape away the top layer of dirt to find it. This is the graft, or bud union, the point where the desired rose variety was fused onto the rootstock variety. Everything on or above this bulge is the rose variety you want to grow; everything below it is the vigorous rootstock that's fuelling that ornamental variety.

2. Identify the Suckers

Any stems that grow out of the sides of or above this bulge belong to the rose variety you do want. Your rose may well be growing new stems from this bulge right now, and these are called basal stems. Leave these be, as they’ll mature and eventually grow flowers of the variety you want.

However, any new stems growing from below that bulge are suckers belonging to the variety you don't want to flower. You might spot new vertical stems emerging from the soil away from the main base, too, and these will be suckers emerging from lower down the rootstock.

The stem’s appearance can give you clues as to whether it’s a beneficial basal stem or a pesky sucker. Suckers tend to be green with duller leaves and fewer thorns, and shoot straight up. Sometimes the leaves of suckers can look lighter to those on the main portion of the plant, and sport a different number of leaflets.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Basal shoots are likely to have more thorns and may have a hint of red on the stem and leaves, and the foliage will better match that of the main plant.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Once you start regularly checking your roses for suckers, you’ll quickly learn to recognise the difference, and the longer you leave them to grow, the more obvious the differences become. But while you’re getting to know your rose, the only sure way to identify whether that stem is a keeper or a loser is to find its point of origin.

3. Remove the Suckers

Wearing a pair of thornproof gauntlet gloves like these Rose Pruning Gloves from Walmart, dig down as far as you can towards the point the sucker emerges from the rootstock. Aim to disturb as little soil as possible, so use a narrow, pointed transplanting trowel such as this Corona Transplanter from Lowe’s or a Hori Hori Garden Knife like this Workpro Hori Hori from Amazon. You’re not creating a hole, just freeing the sucker so you can pull it out at its point of origin.

Then grip near the bottom of the sucker and give it a sharp, firm tug to tear it from its base. Ripping it out is a better method than cutting as the sucker is far less likely to regrow. To finish, firm any displaced soil back around the roots.

What About Suckers on Tree Roses?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Standard or tree roses are those with a ball or crown of flowering stems atop a taller trunk. The graft union on standard roses is at the top of the trunk, and you’ll clearly see a swollen bulge from where all the flowering stems emerge.

Because the main vertical stem is part of the vigorous rootstock, as well as tearing out the suckers that emerge from the ground, you need to trim any side stems that grow from this trunk. Simply use a pair of hand pruners such as these Fiskars Steel-Blade Pruners from Walmart to cut these shoots off flush with the trunk. Do sharpen your blades first as clean cuts are easier for the plant to heal, and it’s a two-minute task with a tool such as this $7 Garden Guru blade sharpener from Amazon.

Keep an Eye Out for More Suckers

August is peak time for rose suckers and the younger those stems are when you pull them, the easier it is to remove them, and the less energy they’ll suck from your plant. But do keep an eye out all through spring and summer, checking around once a month and removing any that you spot.

While summer heat stress is a big trigger, any stimulation to the rootstock or graft union such as an accidental knock with the lawn mower or frost damage, can cause suckers to grow.

As you learn to recognise what’s a sucker and what’s a basal stem, you’ll be able to remove suckers when they’re very small, saving your plant valuable energy.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

Add removing suckers to your list of what to do with roses in summer as, left to their own devices, these rogue stems can sap the plant of energy, for fewer flowers next year. In the worst cases, suckers can weaken the ornamental stems to such an extent that they die, and you’re left with a rampant, plain rose variety you never intended on growing. So do find 10 minutes to pull out rose suckers this weekend, and you’ll be rewarded with prime blooms next year.

This feature is part of the Weekend Win series, and there’s still time to do the other August Weekend Wins:

• Use a $4 dog comb to groom ornamental grasses and save yourself hours weeding in spring.
• Trim lavender so it has time to grow a duvet of dense foliage to survive winter well.

By mid-August, many backyards are showing the strains of summer displays that are edging past their best (if they haven’t already started to get decidedly crinkly around the edges!). Grass might be starting to crunch underfoot, tomato leaves are curling by noon, and once-vibrant summer annuals are beginning to look ratty and scorched. But while the great outdoors might not always be looking so great as summer winds down, there is a place where things can quickly be much lusher.

While August leaves many yards brown and brittle, indoors the picture is reversed. Pick the right leafy companions for your indoors retreat, and they remain vital and glossy through late-summer ravages, and well beyond. These resilient houseplants hit their stride as summer ends, holding color and shape while outdoor beds are winding down for the season. So rather than fighting a losing battle against the heat outside, why not turn your focus indoors and create a lush, tranquil sanctuary?

Many heat-loving tropical houseplants use these long daylight hours and warm ambient room temperatures to unfurl fresh growth and massive, glossy leaves. These low-maintenance houseplants love this warm air and extended daylight, not to mention humidity levels that would flatten a peony. Current conditions make them reassuringly low maintenance. And far from being background fillers, they hold their space with lush drama, metallic leaf swirls, outstanding structure, and even flowers. So skip the crispy yard, come indoors, and settle into a stress-free retreat, surrounded by gorgeous plants that look luxe way past summer’s end.

Grow Luxe, Low-Maintenance Plants

Nearly everything on this list shares the same short set of requirements, so these lush beauties really are low maintenance. Before setting up your indoor leafy retreat, just give some thought to the pot and the immediate environment. Pot drainage is critical. A pot without a hole is a slow death sentence in warm weather, as roots will risk sitting in water. A gritty mix with perlite or bark worked through it is best for drainage and root health, so be sure to add some to your potting soil of choice. A dedicated formula like Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix for Tropicals, available from Amazon, comes blended with pine bark and lava rock for superior drainage.

(Image credit: Kseniia Soloveva / Getty Images)

Watering trips up more people in summer than in any other season. Heat dries the top of the pot quickly, but the lower half can stay saturated, so surface dryness is a poor indication. Pushing a finger down a couple of inches (5cm) gives a truer reading, or a dedicated soil meter like the Expert Gardener Digital Soil Meter from Walmart, which is super-easy to use and includes light readings. A ceiling fan on its low setting can also discourage fungus gnats and powdery mildew once the air turns muggy.

Light is the other big consideration to factor in before you expand your indoor plant family. While your local USDA hardiness zone dictates when outdoor temperatures drop in fall, indoor environments need to balance any magnifying window light and any dry airflow from air conditioning units. Cold AC blasts can shock tropical foliage, causing leaf drop or browned leaf margins. So position your plants out of drafts, and pull sensitive foliage back a few feet from south or west-facing windows. This will reduce the risk of shock or scorch. So now to meet the indoor stars of the show…

1. Pothos

(Image credit: Zhengshun Tang / Getty Images)

Few people put pothos (Epipremnum aureum) at the top of a list for excitement. But it earns this position on merit for its low-maintenance credentials. It is virtually indestructible, and can flourish in a west-facing hallway or even a bathroom with one small window. Pothos even holds up in a dim corner where nothing else establishes. Those epic trailing vines can reach 6 feet (1.8m) indoors in just a couple of seasons.

For striking visual variety, there are some cool variegated varieties such as Marble Queen or vibrant Neon. For ultra low maintenance with vibrant gold star credentials, Costa Farms Golden Pothos Plants from Walmart quickly fills a vertical space with lush, full color. While tolerant of low humidity, you’ll find your pothos plant produces larger leaves when provided a support like a moss pole. Water once the top 2 inches (5cm) go dry: weekly through August, closer to every other week by November. Just note that the foliage is toxic to cats and dogs if chewed, so keep out of harm’s way.

Golden Wonder Costa Farms Costa Farms Golden Pothos Plant

2. Rex Begonia

(Image credit: Danielvfung /Getty Images)

Foliage this striking usually comes at a cost. But Rex begonia varieties (Begonia rex) are very easygoing in the right indoor setting, particularly as summer winds down outdoors. Its silver and plum leaves carry gorgeous metallic patterns and swirls that do the work of a flowering plant with little of the expectation. For an exquisite pink, green, and burgundy foliage swirl, buy BubbleBlooms Harmony Foliage Harmony’s Ghost Whisperer from Amazon. Just keep this plant clear of direct sun.

Bright indirect light suits August dwelling, maybe a few feet back from an east window indoors. Water at the soil line instead of over the top, as wet foliage in warm still air can invite powdery mildew. A light spritz with Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart is a great way to protect velvety begonia leaves in summer. Grouping these metallic darlings with other tropicals helps to keep ambient humidity high.

Art Swirl Foliage BubbleBlooms Harmony Foliage Harmony's Ghost Whisperer Rex Begonia Plant

3. ZZ Plant

(Image credit: Colnihko / Getty Images)

The ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) is the king of low-maintenance indoor greenery, holding up in low-light hallways where other plants eventually fail. Two weeks without water is no big deal for the ZZ, which stores moisture in thick rhizomes. So your August routine will amount to a deep soak every 2-3 weeks and little else. ZZ copes with low light, though growth accelerates in bright indirect conditions, sending up new spears through the warm stretch.

Arching stems carry glossy leaflets that look constantly polished. Standard green ZZ varieties are effortlessly glossy, and for something even more luxe, the Black Raven ZZ Plant from Plant Addicts develops lush near-black foliage. Overwatering is the one real threat for your ZZ. Yellowing lower leaves usually indicate too much water rather than too little. Just use a well-draining cactus or succulent soil mix, and ensure the pot has ample bottom drainage holes to prevent rhizome rot.

Deep Impact Plant Addicts Black Raven ZZ Plant

4. BIrd of Paradise

(Image credit: Darrell Gulin / Getty Images)

Scale is the main draw with these tropical plants, which are well suited to indoor living as summer ends. Birds of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) send up paddle leaves on long stalks and reach 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5m) indoors, turning a bare corner into a focal point. With huge, banana-like leaves, it brings tropical grandeur and even flowers in orange or white. If you can’t decide which color flower to choose from, the Fam Plants Store Birds of Paradise Plant Bundle from Amazon includes two of each.

A summer outdoors on a bright patio speeds growth noticeably, though the indoor transition needs easing in over a week or so. Adding a shade cloth, such as the Coolaroo 70% UV Block Shade Cloth from The Home Depot, over the patio for the first few days can prevent scorch. Just give this tropical beauty plenty of bright, direct sunlight. It also appreciates having its massive leaf blades wiped to keep them lush and healthy. Don’t panic if you see splits in older leaves, as these are normal and help the plant handle wind in its native habitat.

Flights of Fancy Fam Plants Bird of Paradise Plants (4-Pack) With Orange and White Flowers

5. Snake Plant

(Image credit: Raththaphon Wanjit / Getty Images)

Durability is the entire pitch with this low-maintenance plant. Snake plants (Dracaena trifasciata) throw up stiff, upright leaves that hold their own water reserves, and a photosynthetic quirk lets the plant take in carbon dioxide overnight instead of during the day. Renowned as one of the easiest houseplants in existence, its sword-like leaves feature striking horizontal banding and yellow margins. It thrives in almost any lighting condition, from dim corners to bright sun.

Watering can drop to roughly once a month even now. Stronger light produces sharper banding, though a north window will do fine. Always allow the soil to dry out between waterings. When in doubt, wait another week! If you fancy a compact form for smaller spaces that grows outward, try the Starfish Snake Plant from Plant Addicts with its thick leaves. For a taller variety with gold variegations, Gold Flame Snake Plant, also from Plant Addicts, is the definition of low maintenance.

Small Space Snake Plant Addicts Starfish Snake Plant

6. Ponytail Palm

(Image credit: Ekaterina Fedulyeva / Getty Images)

Featuring a distinctive swollen trunk base (called a caudex) topped with a fountain of long, cascading leaves, the ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) is like a living desert sculpture. That swollen bulb at the base is a water reservoir, hence a big reason why it is so undemanding. Word to the wise, though: it isn’t really a palm, despite the name. Ponytail Palm from Perfect Plants is a great option for showcasing on a coffee table or windowsill, and you can currently get 18% off.

Full sun suits this easygoing houseplant – and that includes a genuinely hot windowsill that would cook a fern. Watering every few weeks is basically all the plant care required, along with some fast-draining succulent soil. One further point in its favor is that the ASPCA lists it as non-toxic to cats and dogs, which puts this playful house-dweller ahead of much of this list for growers with a pet inclined to chew.

Mini Palm Style Perfect Plants Nursery Ponytail Palm Tree Plant

7. Wax Plant (Hoya)

(Image credit: Ovidiu Ghitulescu / Alamy)

Clusters of waxy little stars sit in a near-perfect dome, heavily scented after dark. And these are just a couple of the charms of this easygoing summer houseplant, with as many names as waxy star blooms! The wax plant (Hoya carnosa), native to East Asia and Australia, is also known as the Hindu rope plant, porcelain flower plant, and the Krinkle Kurl (depending on variety). Rope Plant Hoyas from Plant Addicts are perfect for an indoor spot with bright indirect light.

This plant reaches peak bloom around late summer, so this is the perfect time to set one up. The main care tip is simple: never cut off the spent flower stalk. Those stalks, called peduncles, are permanent, and the plant reflowers from the same point year after year. Beyond that, this plant just needs bright indirect light and a container on the small side (they thrive when kept slightly root-bound). Train vining stems up a plant trellis, like the WellSign Honeycomb Potted Plant Trellis from Amazon, or just let them spill over a hanging basket to display their pretty form.

Porcelain Pretty Plant Addicts Rope Plant Hoya

8. Croton

(Image credit: Sergio Amiti / Getty Images)

For a plant that combines an easy gloss factor with dazzling colors, look no further! Here is the plant that earns the word shine. Croton (Codiaeum variegatum) carries foliage streaked in red and gold, with deep oranges running through older growth, and those colors intensify under strong light. Indeed, your croton craves high light levels, so place it near a sun-drenched window for the best displays. For a reliable croton with the iconic neon hues, Nature’s Way Farms Croton Petra from Walmart is a lush statement piece that requires little ongoing care.

Aim for temperatures around 60-85°F (16-29°C) for a happy croton. It doesn’t like being moved around, especially near an AC vent. A tabletop humidifier, like the Levoit Classic300 Humidifier from Amazon, keeps the edges from crisping once indoor air dries out. Apart from that, your croton is unfussy. Just settle it into a bright, stable spot now, protect it from drafts, and the color will retain its dazzle long after the beds outside have finished for the year.

Color Blast Nature's Way Farms Nature's Way Farms Croton Petra Live Plant

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Everyone thinks that a beautiful garden is the result of back-breaking labor, but I have finally accepted that I am not doing my garden any favors by tidying it too much. Especially when it comes to my perennials.

Yes, I am very much of the opinion that some perennials genuinely look better when you leave them alone (which suits my gardening style and generally lazy demeanor) right down to the ground. Honestly, stop deadheading, cutting back and generally fussing over them, and you'll find that their seedheads become architectural, their stems add movement, and the whole border takes on a wonderfully Secret Garden vibe that is so much more appealing than a garden where everything is standing to attention.

That doesn't mean I let everything go. My lupins, for example, are spectacular for the five minutes they're in flower and then spend the rest of the time looking like they've escaped from a Tim Burton film. Those, I am still tempted to tidy away. Still, there are plenty of perennials that become more interesting as the flowers fade, and I've become increasingly convinced that we should give them the chance.

6 Perennials That Look Better When You Let Them Go Wild

Look, it might appeal to my lazy side to let my perennials do their own thing, but there's an added bonus; leaving plants standing can also be better for wildlife, too.

Yes, faded flowers and seedheads provide food and shelter, while their stems and foliage add structure long after the main flush of flowers has passed. And, selfishly, there is something rather lovely about doing less work and ending up with a garden that looks more abundant.

The trick is knowing which plants to leave alone. These are the ones I've found can handle a little benign neglect – and, in many cases, actually look better for it.

1. Alliums

(Image credit: Annie Shropshire / Shutterstock)

Alliums are perhaps the easiest place to start if you're trying to break the habit of tidying everything the moment it finishes flowering. I love them in flower, but I think I might love them even more once those purple globes have faded and turned into sculptural seedheads.

Rather than cutting them down, I leave them standing among grasses and other perennials. The dried heads hover above the planting like little skeletons of the flowers that were there before, catching the light beautifully, particularly later in the season. And because they hold their shape for so long, they give the border something to look at when many early-summer flowers have disappeared.

If you fancy an unusual twist on the trend, go for the Nevskianum Allium Bulbs from Burpee; this rare red allium blooms from May to June. If you prefer that classic purple hit, though, Burpee's Globemaster Allium Bulbs are widely considered the best for color intensity.

2. Agapanthus

(Image credit: Flower Garden / Shutterstock)

Agapanthus is another one of those perennials I am very reluctant to cut back too soon. Those spectacular blue or white flowerheads are obviously the main event, but the fading heads can remain attractive for weeks afterwards, gradually drying into something that looks almost as though it belongs in a flower arrangement.

There is also something very satisfying about allowing a plant to go through its whole performance (from bloom, to flower, to fading petals, to seedhead) rather than treating the end of flowering as a cue to get the scissors out.

Shop Agapanthus:

Daylily Nursery Yonder Blue Agapanthus

CZ Grain White Agapanthus

LATROPIC Live Blue Agapanthus Plant

3. Coneflower

(Image credit: Mieneke Andeweg van Rijn / Getty Images)

Coneflowers are practically designed for the stop-tidying approach. The flowers are beautiful, but once the petals fall, those prominent central cones remain, giving the plant an entirely different look.

I leave mine standing for as long as possible, particularly into fall. The seedheads add useful structure when the border is starting to lose its summer fullness, and they provide food for birds.

It's a perennial that serves as a good reminder that a flower doesn't necessarily stop being useful – or beautiful – just because it has stopped flowering. Although, yes, there are ways around this; something like the Magnus Purple Coneflower from Nature Hills is great as it never droops or goes floppy!

4. Salvia

(Image credit: CBCK-Christine/Getty Images)

I have salvia in pots out front, and for years I have done absolutely nothing to it. It comes back, flowers, gets a little unruly and generally looks lush without asking for much in return. It's one of those plants I planted and then more or less forgot about.

Recently, though, I will admit that I've had to start watering it. And honestly, if salvia is telling you it needs a drink? Yeah, then you know it's been hot; no surprise, then, that this year's heat and relentless sun have left it looking a little more scorched than usual, but normally it just gets on with things, filling its pots with flowers and foliage without any careful shaping or constant deadheading from me.

That's exactly what I love about it. I'm increasingly drawn to plants that don't need me hovering over them, and salvia has more than earned its place in the garden on that basis alone. Let it grow, let it flop a little and let it do its thing – the result is much more relaxed than anything I could achieve by trying to keep it perfectly tidy.

Shop Salvia:

Nature Hills Nursery May Night Salvia

Nature Hills Nursery Bumbleberry Salvia

Nature Hills Nursery Marcus Salvia

5. Mexican Fleabane

(Image credit: AL Hedderly/Getty Images)

I have spoken before about my undying love for this invasive perennial, because Mexican fleabane is truly the ultimate “please just leave me alone” plant. I grow it in pots (every container garden needs one plant that thrives on neglect, right?), where it spills over the edges in clouds of tiny daisy-like flowers and somehow manages to make the whole container look more generous than anything I deliberately planted in it.

While you should never let it loose near sensitive habitats or encouraging it to spread unchecked, it's a beautiful pot plant. And a very, very, very easy one, too.

6. Yarrow

(Image credit: N Stertz / Shutterstock)

Yarrow is another perennial that gets more interesting as it ages, not least of all because it is one of the longest-blooming perennials going. Its flat-topped flowerheads have a lovely meadow-like quality when they're in bloom, but I also like the way they gradually dry and turn into little architectural platforms above the foliage.

Instead of cutting them down as soon as they fade, let them remain through fall and even into winter if you like the look. And, if you want one that looks like the picture above, you need the Strawberry Seduction™ Yarrow from Nature Hills in your life.

BONUS: Plants I Want to Grow

The lazy side of me is always on the lookout for plants that look fantastic while requiring approximately zero fuss. So there are a few more perennials firmly on my wish list.

Bee balm, catmint, Russian sage and tickseed (Coreopsis) are all calling my name, largely because they seem to have that same wonderfully unfussy quality – plenty of flowers, plenty of movement and very little need for me to hover over them with secateurs.

I'm particularly tempted by Russian sage for its silvery foliage and hazy purple flowers, while tickseed has the kind of cheerful, easygoing look that makes a border feel instantly more abundant. And bee balm? Anything that brings flowers, pollinators and a slightly unruly presence to the garden has my attention.

Shop Perennials That Love To Be Left Alone:

Clovers Garden Russian Sage Plants

Clovers Garden Bee Balm Balmy Purple

CATMINT

EKT Nursery Purrsian Blue Catmint

Basically, my ideal perennial is one that looks like I've put considerably more effort into the garden than I actually have.

If that's not a planting strategy, I don't know what is.

Shrubs that bloomed beautifully in May can still disappoint the following spring, and late summer dryness is usually the reason. A weekly soak from now through autumn protects the buds forming for next year right now.

Azaleas and rhododendrons look after themselves for much of the year. That reputation is fair, right up until late summer. What happens to these shrubs in August and September rarely shows at the time, and the consequences arrive eight or nine months later as a sparse, patchy flush of flowers.

Both belong to the genus Rhododendron. Both set next spring's flower buds during July and August. Watering azaleas through that window is the one job that carries real weight, and it gets skipped easily when the plants show no obvious distress. A weekly soak usually covers it. How and when the water goes down matters as much as the amount.

Late Summer Is When Next Year's Flowers Are Set

(Image credit: cjmckendry / Getty Images)

Flower bud differentiation happens in midsummer, usually across July and August in temperate gardens. By the end of that stretch a shrub has committed to a finite number of buds. No amount of spring feeding raises the count afterward. Fat, rounded buds at the branch tips are the ones to look for, sitting alongside the slimmer pointed leaf buds. Deciduous and evergreen types run on the same schedule.

Drought during that window thins the display. A shrub short of water pulls resources away from bud formation, and buds that started never get to finish. The damage stays invisible through August. Often there is no obvious sign beyond some afternoon leaf curl. The plant heads into autumn looking healthy enough. The bill comes due next spring, when half the branch tips leaf out and never flower.

How Much Water, and How Often

(Image credit: Francesca Leslie / Shutterstock)

Aim at roughly 1 inch (2.5cm) a week, rainfall included. Below that, supplementary watering will be necessary. A rain gauge from Amazon settles the question and ends the guesswork about whether an afternoon storm actually delivered anything. Plenty of summer showers amount to far less than they appear to. Shrubs in their first two seasons need closer attention.

One long soak beats several short ones. Aim to wet the soil down to roughly 8 to 10 inches (20-25cm), which takes a slow trickle rather than a quick sweep across the bed. Shallow sprinkling wets the mulch and very little underneath it. Push a trowel in near the drip line to see how far it actually traveled.

Location, Location, Location

(Image credit: Roman Beliakov / Getty Images)

Both plants carry a shallow fibrous root mat, confined almost entirely to the top 6 to 12 inches (15-30cm) of soil. There is no taproot reaching down for reserves. That mat spreads outward as well, so water poured tight against the stem misses much of it. Work out to the drip line and slightly past it. A soaker hose from Home Depot laid in a loose ring around the shrub can handle the whole job unattended.

Morning is the better slot. Foliage dries before evening, which keeps fungal trouble off evergreen leaves. Overhead sprinklers are the weakest option for that same reason. A fair share evaporates before it lands. Water at ground level and go slowly. Sloped beds may want two shorter passes with a pause between.

Holding Moisture Steady Without Drowning the Roots

(Image credit: Jurgute / Getty Images)

Mulch buys time between waterings. A 2 to 3 inch (5-8cm) layer of pine bark mulch from Walmart holds moisture in the root zone and cools the soil underneath. What it will not do is change the pH, whatever the bag implies. Surface mulch rarely shifts a reading at all. Elemental sulfur dug in, after a soil test, is the reliable route to the 4.5 to 6.0 range. Keep mulch clear of the stems by an inch or two. A pile against the trunk traps moisture right where crown rot starts.

Too much has its own cost, though. Ground that stays waterlogged sets up Phytophthora root rot, usually Phytophthora cinnamomi. Infected shrubs wilt. So they get watered, and the rot moves faster. Anything drooping in soil that is already damp probably has a drainage problem rather than a thirst one — check with a finger before reaching for the hose. Heavy clay may never drain well enough on its own. A bed raised 12 inches (30cm) or more above grade sidesteps the question entirely.

These are low-effort tasks you can spread out between now and the first hard frost. Keep it up, and the buds now forming on those branch tips should open next spring in the numbers they were meant to.

Even the dogs have noticed a difference.

“It took them no time at all to enjoy the grass and the smells and tree cover like at Clark Park and Trout Lake,” says Jesse Ray-Contreras.

In early March, Ray-Contreras and their husband Gabriel Ray-Contreras, along with their two Boston terriers Olly and Ella, took possession of their new home at 12th and Commercial. They moved from a 620-square-foot one-bedroom rental in Yaletown to a 1,100-square-foot three-bedroom in Ace, a Wesgroup Properties development.

“We wanted to live somewhere with a different pace than downtown — more trees, more grass for the dogs, a variety of architecture, smaller businesses, that type of thing.”

The six-storey building holds 61 one-, two-, and three-bedroom units, with remaining homes ranging in floor space from 512 to 1020 square feet. North-facing homes have views of downtown, the North Shore mountains, and the shops and restaurants lining Commercial. South-facing homes look out over a second-floor courtyard with two barbecues and a sink, and a kids’ play area. The courtyard connects to a shared-use room with multiple lounge and game areas, a kitchen and a bathroom, for 2,900 square feet of amenity space.

A work hub sits off the lobby on the main floor, which is home to several retail spaces including a café, Merci Boulangerie. A hair salon, wellness and meditation studio and electronics repair shop will also be moving in.

Nearby restaurants include The Burrow, the vegetarian Mexican restaurant formerly known as Banditas, and perennial Szechuanese favourite ChongQing. The Rio Theatre and City Avenue Market, formerly Donald’s, are a few blocks north.

The Ray-Contreras began looking for a presale home in 2023. Ace’s 2026 completion date “gave us time to get our affairs in order,” Ray-Contreras says. Both are psychotherapists with their own practice, In Good Company Counselling. They wanted to be close to the SkyTrain for easy transit to their practice’s downtown location.

“You’re so close to the SkyTrain station. Getting just about anywhere is faster than by car.”

They came across Ace shortly after beginning their search and knew of the developer through a friend who lives in the River District, which was master-planned by Wesgroup.

“We started conversing with a colleague-slash-friend who’s also an agent on a Saturday. By Wednesday we had signed the paperwork and given our first part of the deposit.”

According to Wesgroup senior sales manager Richard Alvarez, as of this writing, 60 per cent of the homes had been sold. Buyers have mostly been in their 30s and 40s, many first-time homeowners.

For the Ray-Contreras, ACE checked a lot of boxes: price, location, size, and esthetic.

“We wanted something modern but still cosy, nothing too sterile. It very much feels like Ace was developed by and for millennials — said with compliments.”

The homes have an open layout. Bedrooms are designed with walk-through closets and ensuite bathrooms. High ceilings, 8’8” add to the feeling of spaciousness. Balconies range in size. The Ray-Contreras’, for instance, is 174 square feet, while the home’s floorspace is 1020 square feet.

Kitchen features include a herringbone white tile backsplash and Italian cabinetry and appliances like Fulgor Milano gas cooktops, wall ovens and integrated fridges. The two colour schemes, crema and coffee, provide Oreo-cookie-sharp contrasts.

“It feels modern, not kitschy, and designed to age well. I also think the layouts pay a lot of mind to the utility of space. All of the bedrooms in the suites we looked at are separated, they don’t share a wall. And the flow works quite well.”

They originally purchased a two-bedroom home but decided to upgrade a year later to a three-bedroom.

“Neither of us is from Canada, so having enough space to host friends and family from out of town is really important. Now we have not only a guest room but a flex space that acts as an exercise/game/dog room.”

Other building features include a ground-floor dog-wash station and, in the underground parking lot, a bike storage and repair station and stalls pre-wired for EV charging.

“We don’t have an electric vehicle, but it’s something we would like to do,” Ray-Contreras said. So having the option gave us a lot of flexibility.”

Olly and Ella aren’t the only ones enjoying the new neighbourhood.

“There’s a friendliness to East Van. You can tell that folks invest in the neighbourhood, not to say that folks in other parts of the city don’t. I just think that there’s a hustle and bustle to downtown that maybe squeezes some of that out. And there’s a slower pace, quite literally, in some cases in East Van. It’s been a welcome change for us and for our two dogs.”

Project: Ace

Project address: 1680 E. 12th Ave., Vancouver, B.C.

Developer: Wesgroup Properties

Architect: Ciccozzi Architecture

Interior designer: Wesgroup Properties

Project size: 61 homes

Price: One-bedroom homes from $555,900

Number of bedrooms : One-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments

Sales centre: 1680 E. 12th Ave., Vancouver, B.C.

Centre hours: By appointment

Phone: 604-571-9904

Website:wesgroup.ca/ace

Related

• New Westminster townhomes blend heritage-style facades with contemporary living
• Interior design rules that can — and can’t — be broken

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

8529 Ashleigh McIvor Dr., Whistler

Type: Four-bedroom, five-bathroom detached

Size: 4,320 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $4,878,000

Listed for: $5,395,000

Sold for: $5,000,000

Sold on: May 17

Days on market in this listing: 143

Listing agent: Bob Cameron PREC and Sally Warner PREC at ReMax Sea to Sky Real Estate

Buyers agent: Nick Swinburne PREC at Angell Hasman & Associates Realty

The big sell: This modern four-bedroom detached home was built with an eye firmly on contemporary style and an aim to capture the breathtaking views that span Green Lake, Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, and Black Tusk. Set within the Baxter Creek community on the north side of Whistler, there is ample opportunity to enjoy all four seasons with access to a swimming pool and hot tub at the strata’s clubhouse, and proximity to myriad recreational activities that the town is renowned for. The house was built in 2014 with warm wood finishes, radiant heated tile floors, an open-concept living area complete with a floating gas fireplace and glass doors that open to a sun-filled deck, a well-equipped kitchen, a large mud room, and a gym and family room on the lower of the three levels. A legal one-bedroom suite offers additional accommodation. The home has an integrated double garage, and a monthly maintenance fee of $220.13.

2323 Graveley St., Vancouver

Type: Four-bedroom, two-bathroom detached

Size: 1,882 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,506,600

Listed for: $1,750,000

Sold for: $1,695,000

Sold on: June 10

Days on market in this listing: 21

Listing agent: Adam Chahl PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Jessica Smith PREC at ReMax Select Realty

The big sell: Vancouver’s eclectic Grandview-Woodland neighbourhood is the venue for this 1920’s house that exudes Craftsman detailing. The exterior has stone pillars supporting a gabled roofline with exposed wood elements including rafter tails and purlins, and the recent addition of a new roof adds to the value. The interior was renovated in 2014 and features a fully-finished basement with a two-bedroom legal suite with its own entrance and address, while the main floor has a modern bathroom and kitchen with Shaker-style cabinets and stainless-steel appliances, a living room with an electric fireplace and linear stone tiles above the mantelpiece, two bedrooms with the primary enjoying a walk-in closet, and the attic provides additional storage. High ceilings are finished with crown moulding, laminate floors flow through each room, and the walls are finished with designer paint colours or wallpaper. Outside, the front and backyards are fully fenced.

136 — 1350 Mitchell St., Coquitlam

Type: Four-bedroom, four-bathroom townhouse

Size: 2,002 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,352,000

Listed for: $1,289,900

Sold for: $1,270,500

Sold on: June 27

Days on market in this listing: 53

Listing agent: Rod Bahari PREC at Sutton Group — West Coast Realty

Buyers agent: Krista Lapp PREC at Royal LePage Elite West

The big sell: The four-year-old Ballantree development comprises a collection of townhomes that were built by Polygon on Coquitlam’s Burke Mountain. Set among nature, the three-level units offer four bedrooms and a range of floor plans. This particular home has an end-unit position with just over 2,000 square feet of internal living space. There is an open kitchen with a large island, stone counters, a marble backsplash, and stainless-steel appliances including a gas cooktop, nine-foot-high ceilings, vinyl floors, a custom feature wall with built-in cabinets, and a flexible area that could be used as a home office. Three bedrooms reside on the upper floor served by two bathrooms, while the lower level offers a fourth bedroom and bathroom. A side-by-side double garage provides an electric vehicle outlet, and the property comes with a monthly maintenance fee of $346.40 and the balance of the New Home Warranty.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

Related

• Sold (Bought): West Vancouver home blends luxury with functionality
• Sold (Bought): 100-year-old Shaughnessy home showcases refined finishing touches

Boxwood has long been the go-to choice for creating evergreen privacy around a home, but it definitely has its problems. Thankfully, Kevin Bacon and Kyra Sedgwick's Los Angeles garden proves there's a much better alternative.

Oh yes! Instead of relying on clipped hedging that's prone to blight and ravaging by box tree moth, the couple have embraced a layered planting scheme that delivers all of that wonderful privacy, texture and year-round interest you get from an evergreen boxwood.

Better still? Why, the fact that it does it all in exchange for far less water, too! No small thing, considering how hot and dry our summers have been of late.

Kevin Bacon's Privacy Planting Is Better Than Boxwood

From the street, Kevin Bacon and Kyra Sedgwick's front garden is framed by a loose and natural-looking arrangement of drought-tolerant plants rather than a formal hedge. Towering California pepper trees create a high canopy, while bold agaves, birds of paradise and fragrant rosemary (aka the 'it' plant of the future) fill the space beneath.

The result? A living screen that feels lush and secluded without the rigid appearance and dramatic goings on of traditional boxwood.

Check it out:

(Image credit: GTCRFOTO/Alamy)

Rather than depending on a single evergreen hedge (or putting all of those metaphorical eggs into one box tree moth-addled basket), several plants have been used here to soften views into the property.

The taller trees filter sightlines from above, mid-height birds of paradise provide dense evergreen foliage, and lower-growing agaves and rosemary add volume at ground level. It feels softer and more contemporary than a wall of box, and it is also 100% made for a warming climate.

Think about it: agaves store water in their thick leaves, rosemary thrives in hot and dry conditions once established, and California pepper trees are well adapted to drought. Together they require significantly less irrigation than thirsty hedging plants, making them an attractive option for gardeners looking to reduce maintenance and water use.

Shop Kevin Bacon's Planting Scheme:

CitronellaKing 3 Creeping Rosemary in 2.5” Nursery Cubes

Daylily Nursery Agave "Blue Glow"

Kauai Garden California Tree Pepper Seeds

None of this means boxwood has become obsolete, of course. Once a go-to for formal gardens and neatly clipped borders, though, there's no getting away from the fact that it is increasingly falling out of favor. And, in areas where drought is becoming a concern, or where homeowners want a more relaxed Mediterranean-inspired aesthetic, Kevin Bacon’s planting scheme offers a compelling alternative (especially if you don't want your heart broken by box caterpillar drama later down the line).

A single hedge might be the obvious choice, but, as Kevin Bacon might put it, there are degrees of separation. Combine drought-tolerant trees, evergreen shrubs and architectural planting, and you can create privacy in a far more interesting way... and all with more texture, less water and a garden that feels distinctly of the moment.

Welcome to the big time.

We’ve all been there. One second you are having a great time with your family and friends. The next thing you know, you are swatting left and right. These pesky bugs can turn a nice evening into a nightmare, and I’m here to sort out what works and what’s just garden hype.

Mosquitoes aren’t just annoying. They’re actually a real health threat, carrying stuff like West Nile virus or Zika that can knock you flat, quickly. I, myself and plenty of friends have dealt with itchy bites that turned into fevers, and it’s no joke at all. These mosquito repellent plants might help, but they’re not a magic shield, by any means. Most do best as backyard mosquito control in beds or big pots where they can spread out. I’ve tested a few myself, and with the right know-how, you can cut down those bites. It’s all about setting realistic hopes!

Every yard’s a battleground against these biters, and shade or standing water can make it worse. If you’re looking for more tricks, check out backyard mosquito control to team up with your plants. Let’s get into what these green helpers can do!

Why Mosquito Repellent Plants Might Help (Or Not)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Mosquitoes are a pain, but can planting certain types actually keep them away? The idea’s been floating around forever. Some folks swear by a yard full of these plants to scare off skeeters, while others call it a stretch. Certain plant scents can throw off mosquito senses, but it’s not like a commercial bug spray.

You need to plant them in big clumps in the ground for the best shot, not just a lonely pot. Crushing leaves to rub on your skin or brewing a tincture to spritz can amp it up, though it’s more of a mild nudge than a knockout punch. I usually use it by rubbing marigold tincture on my arms at a cookout or any other outdoor fun. It cut the bites down a bit, but a good picaridin bug spray like this one from Amazon is much longer lasting.

The trick is using them right. Rubbing crushed leaves gives a quick scent burst, while a tincture (steep leaves in water or oil, strain, and spray) lasts longer but takes effort. Editor Emma Kendell made her own highly effective catnip mosquito spray!

Placement matters when using plants to repel skeeters. Plant them near seating areas or paths where you hang out, and refresh the rub or spray every couple hours. I’ve found it works better on calm days than when the wind’s blowing the scent away.

Top Mosquito-Repelling Plants and How to Use Them

Let’s talk plants that might give mosquitoes the boot. You can try them for yourself!

1. Citronella Grass

(Image credit: Kcris Ramos / Getty Images)

Citronella grass is that tall, lemony stuff you see in yards, loving USDA zones 9-11, especially down south. Crush its leaves and smear them on your skin for a faint citrus shield, or steep them into a spray tincture if you’re up for it. It flowers with feathery tops in summer, but it needs room in ground beds to really let that scent fly. I planted some near my patio, and it’s been a decent buffer.

2. Marigolds

(Image credit: Orest lyzhechka / Shutterstock)

Marigolds with their bright orange blooms fit zones 2-11 and can handle a pot or bed. Rubbing crushed petals on your skin works for a quick fix, and they flower all summer, pulling in good bugs too. I keep a pot by the back door and dab it on before stepping out.

3. Lavender

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Lavender is a beauty, thriving in zones 5-9 with purple spikes blooming in late summer. Crush the flowers for a rub or whip up a light spray. It’s best in ground plots with good drainage. I’ve got some by the fence, and it adds a nice touch.

4. Basil

(Image credit: Joseph De Sciose / Aurora Photos / Getty Images)

Basil is a kitchen star that handles zones 4-10, flowering with small white blooms if it bolts. Crush fresh leaves for a skin rub or mix into a tincture. This works best in ground beds where it can bush out. I grow it near the grill, and a quick crush before flipping burgers helps.

5. Catnip

(Image credit: AlpamayoPhoto / Getty Images)

Catnip is one that loves zones 3-9, flowers with little white blooms in summer and can be rubbed on skin or turned into a spray. It’s strong stuff. Cats love it, but mosquitoes hate it. I keep it in a ground bed away from my pets!

Other Yard Practices to Kick Mosquitoes Out

(Image credit: Kathleen Walters / Future)

Plants alone won’t win the war. Other moves can team up with them. Clearing standing water from buckets or gutters is a must, since mosquitoes breed like crazy there. I dump mine out every few days, especially after rain. You can also create a "bucket of doom" that uses Mosquito Dunks from Amazon to prevent mosquito larvae from reaching maturity. Adding a fan on the patio stirs up air, which makes it a lot harder for them to land.

Some plants can lure mosquito predators like dragonflies or bats. They are hungry little creatures. I’ve got a small pond with water plants that draw dragonflies, and they snack on larvae like it’s their very last meal! I’d say that it is a good idea planting nectar-rich flowers like yarrow near your repellents can attract these helpers too. It’s not instant, but over time, it builds a natural defense. I’ve noticed fewer biters since adding that mix!

Mosquito repellent plants aren’t a miracle, but they sure can help you to lighten the load if you use them just right. Pair them with smart yard habits, and you might just enjoy those summer nights again.

Frequently Asked QuestionsDo plants that repel mosquitoes actually work?

Do you catch yourself wondering if those mosquito repellent plants can really save you from a swarm? It’s a big question, no doubt, and honestly, it’s not a straight yes or no. Some folks swear by plants like citronella or lavender, saying the scents throw off those pesky bugs, and I've even noticed fewer bites when I rub crushed marigold leaves on my arms during a backyard hangout. But science says it’s more of a mild deterrent.

Plants need to be in big clumps or used up close, like crushing leaves for your skin or making a tincture, to make a dent. They won’t clear your yard like a commercial spray, but paired with draining standing water, they can help. I’ve tried it, and it’s worth a shot on a calm evening!

How should I use mosquito repellent plants to keep bugs away?

Figuring out how to use these plants is half the fun! You’ll want to plant them where you spend time. Think like near the patio or by the door. Using ground beds for big ones like lemongrass or pots for portability with basil isn’t a bad idea, either.

Crush the leaves and rub them on your skin for a quick scent boost, or steep them in water to make a spray tincture if you’re feeling crafty. I’ve done this with rosemary and it lasts a bit.

Keep them trimmed to release more oils, and refresh every couple hours since the effect fades. I also toss some near a fan to spread the scent, and it’s made my summer nights a little more bearable!

My kitchen garden and veg beds look a bit crumpled around the edges. Beans have gone a bit stringy this last week, and my favorite butterhead lettuce has turned bitter. Pulling out spent zucchini vines feels like conceding the season: it’s not over yet, though. Soil that’s still this warm is a precious commodity, so why not put it to work?

Salad greens sit near the top of any list of easy vegetables to grow, and in late summer they get easier still. Seeds that might sit sulking for a week in April can be up in three days at the moment. Sow before the month is out, and there’ll be pickings by mid-September, with more coming clear through to the first hard frost. The bed need not be empty first, since these new crops can go in wherever a crop came out.

So treating these empty gaps as lost space is a wasted opportunity. Warm August soil can accelerate germination, root development, and subsequent nourishment. By growing fast-maturing crops in the warm, vacant pockets left by cleared peas or early potatoes, you’re fast-tracking your next harvests. You can dodge peak summer pest cycles, enjoy early maturing flavors, and fill salad bowls straight through to late fall.

Fast Salad Crops to Grow in August

Before you rush to fill those gaps, think about the condition of the earth, and the general light and drainage. The spent crop has left a space, sure – but what gets left behind will be lumps and root holes that fine seed has no chance in. So before you sow these crops, rake the space until the surface resembles coarse sand. An inch (2.5cm) of compost forked into the top 3 inches (8cm) can help restore a little of the goodness. It will also hang onto water better than sun-baked ground. Skip the deep digging, though: none of these crops will root far enough down to notice.

While warmth is appreciated in the earth, baking heat can be problematic. Lettuce and spinach flatly refuse to germinate once the soil is baking, and corn salad is no better about it. Water the furrow before the seed goes in (rather than after), since watering over the top washes fine seed into clumps. Add some sifted or aged compost or a fine potting mix, such as Espoma Organic Land & Sea Compost from Amazon, which restores critical nutrients and moisture for late summer plantings. Anywhere that puddles in a downpour will need a raised row.

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Regional climate differences will have some bearing on sowing success. Gardeners in USDA hardiness zones 3-6 need to move quickly to ensure crops reach maturity before daylight drops below 10 hours a day. Growers in zones 7-10 face 90°F (32°C) heat spikes, so an overhead shade cloth can help to keep seedbeds under 75°F (24°C). Direct sowing is usually better than plugs for these fast crops, as transplant shock can waste precious growing days. Don’t forget to keep the seedbed damp to prevent surface crusting once you get these fast-growing crops in the ground…

1. Arugula

(Image credit: Vaivirga / Getty Images)

Nothing else in the salad bed moves this fast. Arugula (Eruca vesicaria) germinates in 3-4 days in warm ground and gives a picking of baby leaves inside 3 weeks. The August advantage is flavor as much as speed: summer-sown rocket leaves are fiercely peppery. Cooler nights soften it back toward something usable. Wild rocket has a narrower leaf and more heat. You can buy Organic Arugula Seeds from Eden Brothers for a nutty kick that matures in 28-40 days and also flourishes in large pots.

Thriving in zones 3-10, arugula prefers full sun and requires rich, moist soil with a pH between 6-7. Flea beetles are the biggest threat, so cover with a lightweight mesh. Plant alongside carrots or bush beans, which won't crowd its shallow roots. Protect dense growings from downy mildew with some Arber Biofungicide Spray from Walmart. Cut outer leaves for harvesting. One sowing can carry on for 6-8 weeks.

Eden Brothers Arugula Seeds (Organic Rocket)

2. French Breakfast Radishes

(Image credit: Maryna Laroshenko / Getty Images)

Radishes (Raphanus sativus) are the usual recommendation for a child's first crop, and the reason is timing. They take 3-4 days to germinate, and less than a month to be ready to pull. Little else in the garden moves that fast. Sow the French breakfast type instead of a globe. Crops come up tapered with a white tip, and stay milder in warm weather than the round sorts do. Snatch up packs of French Dressing Radish Seeds from Burpee for crunchy pink and white gems that mature in 25-35 days.

Thinning is the step nobody bothers with. Crowded radishes make tops and nothing below. Pull one at 20 days to check. An inch (2.5cm) between plants should do it. The thinnings can go in the bowl too, since the tops taste like mild mustard. Suitable for zones 2-11, radishes just need light, well-draining soil. Uneven watering can cause roots to crack or turn woody, so maintain consistent moisture.

Burpee French Dressing Radish Seeds

3. Mizuna and Tatsoi

(Image credit: Julia Sudnitskaya / Getty Images)

These Japanese greens, both forms of Brassica rapa, behave almost identically. Mizuna throws up feathery, deeply cut leaves with a faint mustard bite. Tatsoi makes a flat, glossy rosette that shrugs off frost. Both give baby leaves in 3 weeks and full heads in 6 weeks. You can buy Tatsoi Spoon Mustard Seeds from Eden Brothers for hearty Asian greens that mature in as little as 30 days, and Mountain Valley Seeds Red Streaks Mizuna from Amazon for a vigorous red and green leaf in 45 days.

Reliable in zones 4-9, they thrive in full sun or partial shade. Tatsoi is impressively cold-hardy, surviving to 15°F (-9°C). Flea beetles are the only problem, but throw a floating row cover over the bed at sowing time, and it won’t be an issue. The Hortifan Plant Cover from Amazon is great for repeat use. To harvest, shear baby leaves an inch above the ground or let the rosette mature for a single-harvest cooking green.

Mountain Valley Seed Company Mountain Valley Seed Co Organic Red Streaks Mizuna Seeds

4. Corn Salad (Mache)

(Image credit: Rouzes / Getty Images)

Corn salad (Valerianella locusta), or mache, rewards a little more waiting. Its seed sulks in hot ground, so the end of the month works better than the start. Performing best in zones 5-9, mâche requires soil temperatures below 68°F (20°C) to break dormancy, making late August and early September the sweet spot for sowing. What it gives back is cold tolerance: the small rosettes of soft, nutty leaves even keep going under snow. Buy minty sweet Ohio Heirloom Seeds Lamb’s Lettuce (Macha) from Amazon for frilly rosettes of nutritious leaves that mature in 40-45 days.

It tolerates poor soils well, but benefits from light, moist ground in full sun to partial shade. Pair with slow-growing winter brassicas or garlic, and avoid overwatering once established. It requires little feed and is largely ignored by late-season pests. Harvest the rosette with a knife just below the crown. Nothing else here will still be standing in February.

Ohio Heirloom Seeds Corn Salad Seeds by Ohio Heirloom Seeds

5. Land Cress

(Image credit: Dorling Kindersley Ltd / Alamy)

The sticking point with watercress is that its feet have to stay wet. Land cress (Barbarea verna) gives the same hot, peppery hit and grows in ordinary ground, which is why catalogs also sell it as upland cress. Either does fine in a pot sat in a saucer of water, topped up daily, but land cress gives you another option with veg bed gaps. Buy Tomorrow Seeds Upland Cress from Walmart for a zippy, vitamin-rich fresh green leaf machine that’s perfect for small spaces and containers.

Hardy in zones 5-9, land cress thrives in full shade where other greens struggle. It behaves as a biennial, often overwintering to produce spring greens before going to seed. Plant alongside moisture-loving herbs like mint or chives. Keep soil wet to maintain its crisp, peppery bite. Usable pickings follow within 5 weeks. Cut sprigs from the outside, and it regrows.

TomorrowSeeds Tomorrowseeds Upland Cress Seeds

6. Spinach

(Image credit: Istetiana / Getty Images)

Half-empty rows can often be the story with August spinach (Spinacia oleracea), as the seed can stop germinating reliably once the ground warms past a certain point. The fix is to cool the ground first to under 75°F (24°C). Place a shade cloth, like the Coolaroo 70% UV Block Shade Cloth from The Home Depot, over the bed for 4-5 days ahead of sowing, and you’re golden. After that it behaves, with baby leaves in around 30 days, then repeated cuttings from the outside right through fall.

Thriving in zones 3-9, spinach needs neutral-to-slightly alkaline soil (pH 6.5-7.5). Plant alongside radishes or strawberries to maximize space efficiency. Stick to deep watering to encourage strong taproots to withstand cold snaps. You can buy lush and hearty classic Heirloom Bloomsdale Long Standing Spinach from Burpee for a late summer fiesta of nutty goodness that is slow to bolt but quick to mature (40 days).

Burpee Bloomsdale Long Standing Spinach Seeds

7. Red Mustard

(Image credit: Mary Salen. Getty Images)

Deep purple over green, with veins darkening almost to black as the nights cool, is not a color combination the salad bowl often sees. Red mustard (Brassica juncea) earns its place on looks alone. Then there is the heat, which is close to horseradish and builds as leaves get bigger. Suitable for zones 4-10, it thrives in full sun and adapts well to most soil types if drainage is good. Try Red Giant Mustard from Eden Brothers for lush leaves that are bolt-resistant and take only 40 days to mature.

Baby leaves are ready in about 3 weeks, while plants left to size up can survive cold snaps that flatten everything around them. Excellent plant partners include onions, garlic, and rosemary, which help to deter brassica-loving pests. Harvest frequently using a cut-and-come-again approach, leaving the central growing point intact to ensure a steady supply of fresh, spicy foliage until heavy frosts set in.

Eden Brothers Red Giant Mustard Seeds

8. Claytonia

(Image credit: ImageBROKER Karin Jaehne / Getty Images)

Claytonia perfoliata makes small heart-shaped leaves on tender stems, each one eventually holding a little cup with a white flower at the center. Thriving in zones 4-9, claytonia prefers cool, damp, partially shaded conditions, making it ideal for tucked-away garden corners or under taller crops. Soil should be rich in leaf mold or compost and kept moist. Buy MYS Miner’s Lettuce Claytonia From Amazon for a rich vitamin load at a bargain price that should flourish well into winter.

This fast-growing salad green is ready in 40 days and is super-hardy, carrying on under a cloche long after the rest has stopped. It germinates better once the ground cools, like mache, so treat it as a late-August job. Plant with mâche or winter pansies in cold frames. Snip stems gently near the base to encourage multiple harvests, and allow a few plants to flower at season's end for free self-sown crops next year.

MYS Miner's Lettuce Seeds

(Image credit: Tim Gainey / Alamy)

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