Organic Gardening News

As gardeners, we're used to finding meaning in the natural world, whether that's through planting our birth flowers or following lunar calendars. But what if there was also a birth month groundcover for each month of the year?

Fine, I'll admit it: I've become slightly obsessed with these sorts of nature pairings. Birth month flowers (and the beautiful world of floriography) were only the beginning. Then came birth month trees. Birth month birds. Birth month animals. Somewhere along the way, I even found myself happily reading up on birth month bugs – something I never thought I'd type with a straight face.

The more I fell down the rabbit hole, the more one question kept nagging at me: what about the plants doing the hardest work in our gardens? Because groundcover plants rarely get the glory; nobody rushes outside to admire the thyme weaving between stepping stones or the creeping phlox spilling over a wall in quite the same way they admire a rose or peony, right?

Andrews McMeel Publishing Floriography: an Illustrated Guide to the Victorian Language of Flowers

Floriography is artist and illustrator Jessica Roux’s full-color guide to the historical uses and secret meanings behind an impressive array of flowers and herbs.

And yet...

Well, and yet these hardworking plants quietly suppress weeds, protect the soil, feed pollinators and soften every corner they touch. They're the dependable backbone of countless beautiful gardens, basically, which is exactly why they make such surprisingly good personality matches.

All 12 Birth Month Groundcover Plants

Unlike towering trees or showstopping blooms, groundcover plants succeed by persistence rather than spectacle. Some spread with unstoppable determination, while others create harmony wherever they grow. A few positively thrive where everything else struggles. (Sound like anyone you know?).

So, if you've already discovered your birth month herb and know your birth month vine by heart, here's one more piece of botanical fun to add to the list. Here's your birth month groundcover plant – along with a little on what it might reveal about you.

January – Creeping Thyme

(Image credit: Laszlo Podor / Getty Images)

Creeping thyme happily grows between stepping stones, softens gravel paths, shrugs off dry spells, and releases the most wonderful scent whenever somebody walks across it. It never demands the spotlight, but somehow ends up tying the whole garden together.

That quiet determination? That ability to give and give while demanding very little in return? All of that is exactly why it's the perfect birth month groundcover plant for January, as people born in the year's first month are often described as ambitious, fiercely independent and natural leaders.

Creeping thyme reminds us that the strongest people don't always need to shout the loudest. Sometimes they simply keep showing up, one steady step at a time.

February – Creeping Phlox

(Image credit: MaYcaL / Getty Images)

Every spring, creeping phlox performs one of my favorite garden magic tricks when it erupts into an impossibly colorful carpet of pink, lavender, blue or white blooms that spills over walls and brightens entire borders.

It feels a wonderfully fitting birth month groundcover for optimistic February babes, as their imaginative souls are often underestimated until suddenly everyone sees what they've been quietly building all along.

Like creeping phlox, they prove that a little patience can lead to something spectacular. If you fancy it, you can pay tribute with an emerald-blue creeping phlox, a bold scarlet creeping phlox, or a pretty bicolored candy-stripe creeping phlox (my personal favorite!).

March – Calamint

(Image credit: Getty Images)

March babies have long been famed as being thoughtful, compassionate, and the sort of people who quietly improve everyone's day without expecting applause. Enter stage left, then, their birth month groundcover plant: calamint!

Never demanding attention, it quietly produces hundreds of delicate flowers for months, drawing bees by the dozen while asking remarkably little in return. Hardy throughout USDA planting zones 5 to 8, it should look just like a fluffy cloud of blooms until the first frost.

Go for something like the Lesser Calamint from Nature Hills, then, to reap the benefits. (Don't let the name fool you; it's anything but lesser!).

April – Groundcover Rose

(Image credit: wwasilisa/Getty Images)

April needs a birth month groundcover plant with confidence, and you'd best believe these roses fit the bill! They tumble enthusiastically across banks and borders, producing wave after wave of flowers despite heat, rain and whatever else the season throws at them.

They're bold without being fussy, and icnredibly beautiful without being delicate. Two truths which perfectly sum up the sort of energy April personalities bring into a room, of course.

May – Candytuft

(Image credit: anand purohit/Getty Images)

Candytuft (especially Alexander's White Candytuft) disappears beneath a blanket of crisp white flowers every spring before settling back into a neat mound of evergreen foliage that looks good long after the blooms have faded. It's reliable, unfussy, and happy to get on with the job without demanding much attention.

That makes it a fitting match for May personalities, who are often known for being patient, dependable, and wonderfully grounded. They're the people you can always count on, and much like candytuft itself, they prove that consistency is sometimes the most impressive quality of all.

June – Hardy Geranium 'Rozanne'

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Some plants simply get along with everybody, just like a hardy geranium. This pretty birth month groundcover plant threads its way between neighboring perennials without bullying them, flowers for months on end, and somehow makes every planting scheme look a little softer and more relaxed.

Consider it the botanical equivalent of that one friend who can turn up to any party and immediately get everyone talking – and I'm willing to bet that person is a June baby, as they tend to be open-minded, witty and endlessly sociable. They're often the ones bringing people together without even trying, basically.

Channel this energy with a Rozanne Hardy Geranium from Nature Hills, I say! You won't regret it.

July – Periwinkle

(Image credit: Alexander Denisenko / Shutterstock)

Evergreen through much of the year, Bowles' periwinkle forms a dense carpet of glossy foliage that protects the soil in every season, before scattering cheerful violet-blue flowers across its leaves in spring. It's one of those hardworking groundcovers that quietly creates shelter, both for the garden itself and for the insects that call it home.

July-born gardeners are often said to share those same nurturing qualities. Caring, intuitive, and deeply loyal, they're the people who instinctively look after everyone else. Like periwinkle, they create calm and comforting spaces without ever asking for recognition (more than enough reason to invest in a Bowles' periwinkle from Nature Hills, then!).

August – Weigela

(Image credit: BGwalker /Getty Images)

Low-growing weigelas don't believe in doing things by halves. When they flower, they're smothered in trumpet-shaped blooms that hummingbirds and other pollinators find almost impossible to resist. And, even after the flowers fade, many varieties continue putting on a show with colorful foliage that keeps borders looking lively for months.

August personalities have a similar presence to their birth month groundcover plant. Confident, warm-hearted, and natural leaders, they have a way of lifting the energy of every room they walk into – and, much like weigela, they rarely go unnoticed. Tune into that energy with a Very Fine Wine® Weigela from Nature Hills, stat.

September – Ajuga

(Image credit: Irina Pislari / Getty Images)

Ajuga is the birth month groundcover plant that seems to appreciate order. Its tidy rosettes spread into dense carpets of colorful foliage, while neat spikes of blue flowers rise above them in late spring. It's remarkably effective at filling awkward gaps, suppressing weeds, and keeping everything looking polished with surprisingly little effort.

That attention to detail makes it a natural fit for September personalities. Analytical, hardworking, and wonderfully observant, they're often the first to notice the little things everyone else overlooks – and it's usually those little things that make all the difference. If you really want to ramp things up, pack in some extra visual interest with a Chocolate Chip Ajuga.

October – Dianthus

(Image credit: YasuJP / Getty Images)

With its soft mounds of blue-green foliage and delicately fringed flowers, dianthus has a way of making every planting feel more balanced. It slips comfortably into cottage gardens, gravel gardens, and formal borders alike, complementing almost everything around it without ever overwhelming the display.

October babies (like yours truly) are often described in much the same way. Friendly, diplomatic, and naturally even-tempered, if I do say so myself, we have a talent for bringing people together and finding common ground. And, like dianthus, we prove that quiet charm can be every bit as memorable as bold displays, especially if you go for something as vivid as the Paint The Town Fuchsia Dianthus from Nature Hills!

November – Creeping Jenny

(Image credit: HHelene / Getty Images)

Give creeping Jenny a chance, and its bright golden foliage will tumble over walls, spill from containers, and quickly fill up bare patches of ground, bringing color to places that might otherwise be overlooked. In the right conditions, it's wonderfully enthusiastic – some gardeners would even say impossible to stop.

That's exactly why it suits November personalities so well. Strong-willed, passionate, and quietly determined, they're not the sort of people who give up when faced with an obstacle. Once they've decided on a direction, they keep moving until they get there (and this Golden Creeping Jenny from Nature Hills will prove that point a thousand times over if you let it!).

December – Sedum

(Image credit: Joanne Dale / Shutterstock)

Sedums seem to save some of their best moments for when the rest of the garden is beginning to slow down. Their fleshy leaves shrug off drought and poor soils, while late-season flower heads become magnets for bees and butterflies just as many other nectar sources are disappearing. And, even after flowering, the seed heads remain standing well into winter, adding structure long after the growing season has ended.

All of which means this birth month groundcover plant is a lovely match for December personalities, who are often known for their generosity, optimism, and adventurous spirit. Like sedum, they have a habit of bringing warmth and color just when it's needed most (particularly if you up the ante with a vivid SunSparkler® Dazzling Dynamite Sedum).

Shop Three More Genius Groundcover Plants:

TEXTURE TREAT

Barrenwort ‘Spine Tingler’

We adore using the heart-shaped leaves of barrenwort as groundcover.

DESIGNER LOOK

Bugleweed ‘Black Scallop’

This handsome ‘Black Scallop’ boasts purple leaves so dark they’re almost black.

SMART SHADE SOLUTION

Hosta ‘Blue Mouse Ears’

This oh-so-cute hosta has petite, rounded leaves in an appealing blue-green hue .

Look, I'll admit that I really love the idea that we aren't always reflected by the biggest, brightest flowers. Because sometimes they're better represented by the plants working away beneath our feet, holding everything together without asking for much credit.

Think of them as the strong foundations of any garden... and any personality, too!

Gravel is an elegant and affordable option for a driveway, but there’s one big drawback: weeds. If you have a gravel driveway, then you know the constant battle against unwanted weeds popping up between the stones. But there’s a simple tool that solves this problem fast.

There seem to be an unlimited amount of tools and products to control weeds in gravel, but how do you know which ones actually work and are worth the money? Look no further, because our team of gardening experts have found the perfect tool for the job.

The Fiskars Ergo Hand Weeder, which is available right now for around $9 on Amazon, can easily eliminate all the weeds in your gravel driveway. Here’s why it’s the best tool for the job and how to use it. Plus, it’s great for the garden, too! I used it to stop tough weeds in my vegetable beds last summer.

Fiskars Ergo Garden Hand Weeder Tool

Get this high-quality yet affordable weeder on sale for under $9 now from Amazon.

Why This Tool Works Well for Gravel

One of the biggest draws of the Fiskars Ergo Hand Weeder, which is also available from Walmart and Ace Hardware for under $10, is its ergonomic design. It has an easy-to-hold rubberized handle that makes weeding accessible even for people with arthritis.

The thick, strong cast-aluminum head is another great feature of this product. It’s what allows me to quickly pull mature perennial weeds out of my vegetable garden using the same tool.

When I use this unique weeding tool in the grass to pull dandelions or in my garden to get rid of stubborn weeds, it takes a bit of force to wedge the tines down far enough into the soil to grip the taproot. But in a gravel driveway, gravel path, or garden with gravel mulch, it’s even easier. You can simply slip the tines down amongst the gravel stones and pull out the weed with little effort.

In addition to the ergonomic design and durability of this hand weeding tool, it also has a hole in the handle that allows you to hang it on a nail or hook in your garden shed. This handy weeder will fit right into your gardening tool arsenal.

(Image credit: Fiskars / Amazon)What Gardeners Are Saying

From using this hand weeder myself in my yard and vegetable garden, I understand all the rave reviews from the other Amazon users. This tool earned 4.5 stars from over 3,400 reviews.

Many users note the effectiveness, quality, durability, and ease of use as the best features of this tool and I agree. Fiskars is one of my go-to gardening tool brands for both quality and affordability.

The only downside I have for this product is that you have to be at ground level to use it. The ergonomic handle is easy to hold and use, but the problem is that you have to crouch, bend, squat, or kneel down to reach the weeds to use it.

That’s why long-handled weeding tools, like the Grampa’s Weeder (another of my favorites), are great choices for gardeners with back or knee pain or accessibility issues. But if you just have a handful of weeds in your gravel driveway and no limiting physical issues, this tool should work just fine.

(Image credit: Photos by R A Kearton/Moment/Getty Images)How to Get Rid of Weeds in a Gravel Driveway

To use the Fiskars Ergo Hand Weeder, slip the tines of the aluminum head at the base of the weed on either side of the main root. Many types of common weeds have a single deep taproot, so it’s easy to find the main root you need to hook.

Once you find the root, simply tilt back the handle towards you to pry up the weed and pull it out of your gravel driveway. It’s as easy as that! Just move onto the next weed and repeat the process until your drive is free of all unwanted weeds.

It’s best to remove weeds when they are small. The number one worst weeding mistake you can make is letting weeds get too big. But even if you ignore sprouts popping up in your driveway for a while, this tool is strong enough to pull out mature perennial weeds. It just makes it a much easier job to remove weeds when they’re younger and have less extensive root systems. It’s also good to remove weeds after rain when the ground is softer, but this doesn’t matter as much in a gravel driveway.

Now I'm using old cardboard boxes to mulch my vegetable patch this summer, my plants are flourishing despite the heat, I spend far less time watering and weeding, and I don’t have to deal with cat poop. It took an hour to do, and didn’t cost me a penny. And even though I only mulched this raised bed a week ago, I've already saved more time than it took to lay the cardboard. So from now on, I’ll be making cardboarding an essential part of growing vegetables in my garden – and yes, I do think this brilliant DIY gardening trick deserves a new word.

As a gardening editor, I get to read piles of garden articles and my feeds spill with greenery and gardening hacks. I read an article about using cardboard boxes to smother weeds and start new beds; then I read another about using cardboard as a mulch to lock moisture in the soil, and I was intrigued.

You see, my veggie bed was in dire need of help this El Niño summer. Exposed and south-facing, my garden had withstood 8 weeks with zero rainfall and was reliant on my irrigation which, 2 weeks into a hosepipe ban, had become more erratic than ever. I'd been so busy that, in my vegetable patch, weeds had grown so tall they were flowering and seeding. And the one area of bare earth? My cats had adopted it as their favorite poop spot.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I had a bunch of cardboard boxes waiting to be recycled, so I decided to give this eco-friendly, biodegradable mulching idea a go. And honestly, laying a cardboard mulch is the best thing I’ve done all summer. As well as the expected benefits, the cardboard layer means I can (literally) throw buckets of water onto the veggie bed without worrying about washing soil away, so it (literally) takes me a minute to irrigate the entire patch. Earth has already accumulated around the necks of holes cut to accommodate plants, creating pools that hold water so more gets to the roots where it's needed. My free mulch looks pretty good, too.

I'm sharing exactly how I did it, because I reckon you should, too – honestly, it's been a game-changer for growing vegetables in a hot summer.

1. Pull Out the Worst Weeds

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

While the cardboard will quickly smother seedling weeds, I pulled all the perennial weeds such as thistles and nettles, as well as annual weeds that had grown big. Because my garden is next to a hay field, all sorts of seeds blow in, and my bucket was soon filled with an A–Z of weeds. I even discovered a self-seeded poppy.

2. Flatten and Prep Boxes

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I flattened the boxes and removed all the packaging tape and address labels from the cardboard. I didn't want chemicals from these leaching into the soil, or plastic that wouldn't break down, and removing them also made the cardboard more porous.

3. Lay the Cardboard on the Soil

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I laid sections of cardboard on the soil surface, cutting holes to fit around the plants and doing my best to overlap the edges by a couple of inches. Because this is a raised bed, the cardboard didn't need weighing down to keep it in place; if my veg patch was a bed in the ground, I'd put a few stones along the edges of the cardboard stop the wind getting beneath it.

4. Water Thoroughly

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I threw a fair few gallons of water onto the cardboard, both to hydrate the bed but also to wet the cardboard so it softened, molded itself closer to the soil surface and all the sections stuck together where they overlapped.

Before and After

Here’s a photo I took before I started, with the weeds out-competing my poor veggies for moisture (the shame!):

(Image credit: Emma Kendel)

Here’s a photo I took an hour later, once I’d finished.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)Is the Cardboard Mulch Working?

Definitely. The good news is that since I mulched my vegetable patch with cardboard, the plants are doing better than ever, though I'm spending far less time watering. I haven’t seen a single cat poop, either, and I can't tell you how happy I am about that.

In the week since I laid the cardboard, the corn has started fruiting.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

The cucumber has thrown out several new stems.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Even the artichokes – which I thought the heat had killed off – have started shooting from their bases.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I’d really recommend using cardboard to mulch vegetable beds. In my garden, the cardboard mulch is doing a great job of suppressing weeds and it’s saving me so much time watering in this heatwave weather. Even when the top surface of the cardboard looks totally dry, when I lift a corner the soil below is still nice and moist. All the worms seem super-happy, too. The cardboard will slowly break down to improve the soil structure and next year, I won’t have to bother cutting around the plants either, as I’ll be cardboarding before I sow, leaving a criss-cross of gaps.

I already add shredded cardboard to my compost heap but using it as a mulch, too, works wonders. As I practise no-dig gardening in this bed, the cardboard doesn't cause me any issues and, in spring, I'll simply lay my usual layer of compost mulch over the top. I'll be trying this mulching method on my shrub border, too, laying cardboard before I tip over a layer of compost, to beef up its weed suppressing and water conserving abilities. As gardening tips go, laying a cardboard mulch has been a real game-changer for me.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)More Biodegradable Mulches

Nutritious Top Layer

Miracle-Gro Organic All-Natural Dye-Free Mulch

large-scale growing

Biodegradable Paper Weed Barrier 4 X 100 Ft Mulch Rolls

highly absorbent

Plantonix Coco Bliss Coconut Coir Chip Sustainable Mulch

Just in case you’re wondering, the self-seeded poppy survived the cardboarding process!

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

After weeks of relentless heat and drought, my garden borders are exhausted. But a well-chosen plant pairing can inject new life and keep the momentum going into fall. One of my favorite ways to bridge the late-summer-to-fall gap is to combine black-eyed Susan and red hot poker. Mixing vivid color with two very different flower shapes, these easy-to-grow perennials can bring back some of that lost intensity.

The delightful, daisy-like flowers of black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) create a soft, golden mound, while the dazzling spikes of red hot poker (Kniphofia) rise up above the border like blazing torches. Together, they add fullness, height, and contrast without making the planting feel excessive. The combination looks sunny and joyful in August, while transitioning into an autumnal vibe as September arrives.

Several variety pairings can work here, but my top picks for this combo are Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’, available to order online from Garden Goods Direct, and Pyromania ‘Rocket’s Red Glare’ red hot poker, available from Plant Addicts. The kniphofia’s tall flower spikes open from warm red buds into creamy peach blooms, creating a fiery contrast with the rudbeckia’s golden flowers.

And it’s not all about looks – this is also a pairing that works practically. Both plants thrive in full sun and well-drained soil, and their flowering periods overlap to help extend the season from midsummer through mid-fall.

Walters Gardens American Gold Rush Black Eyed Susan

Proven Winners Pyromania Rocket's Red Glare Red Hot Poker

Proven Winners Pyromania Orange Blaze Red Hot Poker

Why Black-Eyed Susan and Red Hot Poker Look So Good Together

Linked by their warmth of coloring, black-eyed Susan and red hot poker provide clear contrast without competing for attention. The golden yellow of the rudbeckia echoes the red, orange, and yellow tones of the red hot poker, creating a warm palette that carries the border across the seasons. The dark centers of the black-eyed Susan flowers are important, too, breaking up all that brightness and adding depth to the look.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

For the strongest effect, use Rudbeckia as the lower, fuller layer, with Kniphofia positioned behind it or allowed to rise at intervals through the drift. Structurally, each plant plays its part, as black-eyed Susan gives volume and continuity, while the spikes of red hot poker give vertical accents that draw the eye upward.

Choose a repeat-flowering red hot poker to ensure fresh flower spikes continue appearing well beyond midsummer. As well as Pyromania Rocket’s Red Glare red hot poker, other good options include Pyromania Backdraft, Orange Vanilla Popsicle, and Orange Blaze, available at Plant Addicts.

Alternative black-eyed Susans that work in this pairing include the ever-popular 'Goldsturm', available at Walmart, as well as 'Early Bird Gold', and ‘Little Goldstar’

Avoid planting this pairing in a strict alternating row, which can look fussy and contrived. Loose groupings and irregular repetition will create a more natural-looking layered garden design.

(Image credit: Daseaford / Shutterstock)How to Grow Them Together

For this combination to perform at its best, you need to plant them in a full-sun location in well-draining soil that has a little moisture retention. The plants’ hardiness ranges also overlap in USDA zones 6–9, and neither requires radically different care that could make the partnership difficult to maintain.

Water both plants moderately while they establish their roots; once settled, they have reasonable drought tolerance and should not need too much watering – though they will flower better if not allowed to stay dry for prolonged periods. Rudbeckia is more forgiving of consistently moist soil, while kniphofia is particularly sensitive to waterlogged ground.

For a small border, position one red hot poker plant slightly behind or off-center from a loose triangle of three rudbeckias, leaving enough room for each plant to reach its mature spread.

In a larger bed, repeat the grouping two or three times along the border, varying the spacing and position slightly.

Deadhead both plants regularly to encourage further flowers. It’s a good idea to leave some Rudbeckia seed heads standing toward the end of fall. They provide texture through winter and offer seeds for visiting birds.

Look after your rose plants in August and you’ll be richly rewarded with plenty more blooms. If your rose is a rebloomer or a repeat flowerer, the right care now can keep these shrubs flowering into fall, right up till the first frost. But even if your rose variety only provides a single flush of flowers that’s already over, good August rose care is vital: without it, too little water and late-summer diseases can threaten long-term plant health.

Roses use a heap of energy in summer, growing flowers and then hundreds of seeds, safely encased in shapely rosehips. Add in the heat stress of this El Niño summer, and you can understand why roses require your support in August. Neglect your plants now and they may cut their flowering period short, or succumb to an unsightly – and sometimes fatal – fungal rose disease. Feed them too late, and you’ll encourage growth that won’t survive winter temperatures. But with the right nurturing, many rose varieties will flower for months more, and all roses will enter winter dormancy strong and healthy.

Giving roses what they need in August is easy, whatever type you’re growing and in whichever zone. Ready to get started? Here’s everything you need to know to get the best possible results.

1. Water Deeply to Improve Drought Tolerance as Well as Hydration

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Keeping your plants hydrated should be at the top of your to-do list when it comes to what roses need in August. It's important to water deeply, however. Established roses will have grown a deep root system, stretching up to three feet down into the ground and, there are shallow feeder roots nearer the soil surface, it’s these lower roots that you should target with your irrigation. So, it’s far better to water established roses thoroughly, once a week, than it is to give them a light watering every day.

Less mature roses will need watering more often, but you should still aim to water deeply, to encourage those roots to delve down in their search for moisture as that will make them more drought-tolerant. Deep root systems will also help fix your shrubs in the ground, reducing wind-rock once fall storms arrive.

Roses in containers will also need watering more often but still, water deeply, until you see water draining from the drainage holes.

Aiming to water the ground at the base of the rose, rather than the plant itself, in early morning so any splashed leaves dry quickly, significantly reduces the risk of disease. A long watering wand that fits to a hosepipe such as this telescopic 36”-60” wand with a ratcheting head from Walmart makes that easy to do while you’re standing well clear of the thorns.

2. Remove Faded Flowers – But Leave Some for Rosehips

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Deadheading roses stops the plant from wasting energy on seed production and redirects it into new growth, so this is a key part of how to keep roses flowering into fall. And even rebloomers should be deadheaded: while they’ll still flower if you don’t, you’ll get more blooms if you do.

Now, many roses produce beautiful rosehips which not only bring great fall color but provide winter food for birds. Small seed-eating birds like finches will perch on the shrub to feed, while bigger birds like blackbirds will wait till frost has softened the outer case and the hips have fallen to the ground before eating the seeds. So, before you deadhead, think about whether or not you want rosehips, as removing the final flush of faded flowers will prevent them forming.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you’ve got a rebloomer or repeat flowering rose, you don’t need to worry – there are plenty more blooms to come. But if your rose is done flowering for the year, leave some faded blooms in place to form rosehips.

Use a pair of hand pruners – and do sharpen blades first as it’s a two-minute task and clean cuts are far easier for plants to heal – and cut the faded flower stem just above the first set of leaves below it. If your rose flowers in clusters, wait until all have bloomed then cut the stem below.

If you’re going on holiday, you can remove all the open flowers, not just the faded ones, and you’ll return to a heap of fresh buds just about to open.

Thornproof gloves

ThornProof Gardening Gloves for Women & Men

Bypass Pruners

Fiskars SmartFit Steel Bypass Hand Pruners

Sharpening Tool

Corona Handheld Garden Tool Blade Sharpener

3. Improve Airflow to Avoid Late-Summer Diseases

As we roll into late summer, more humidity and heavier dews in hot spells can create ideal conditions for common rose diseases including black spot, powdery mildew and rust. Good rose health is your number one guard against disease, as a happy, well-hydrated plant is far less susceptible. But hot on its heels is airflow. Good air circulation around a plant cuts damp spots where fungal diseases flourish, and it’s easy to achieve.

A well-pruned plant has far better airflow through it, but August isn’t the time to prune roses. You can, however, improve conditions now by regularly deadheading and removing any dying foliage, weeding the ground around the rose, and trimming any spring- or summer-flowering perennials that may have encroached on its space.

Regularly removing any dying leaves also gives you the opportunity to check for early signs of disease so you can act early. In August, look out for:

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Rapidly enlarging dark purple or black patches on the top side of leaves, sometimes with a bright yellow ring around them. These are signs of black spot on roses (above).
• Scabby, dark or purplish patches on young stems, also common indicators of black spot.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• A white or grey powdery coating on the leaves, stems and buds. This is likely powdery mildew (above).
• Stunted new growth is another sign of powdery mildew, and you may see the edges of young leaves curling upwards into a boat shape, and fresh stems might appear deformed.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Small yellow spots on the top of the leaf, with orange or dark pustules in the same place on the underside, are signs of rust (above).
• Leaves discoloring and/or being dropped prematurely can be caused by any of these diseases.

Catch any of these diseases early and they’re easy to deal with. Pick off all diseased leaves and prune any severely infected stems, disinfecting pruners with isopropyl alcohol between each and every cut. Rake up all fallen leaves from the base of the plant, too. Dispose of this infected plant material in your household waste bin, not your home compost heap.

Practise this good plant hygiene, and there’s no need to routinely spray for disease prevention.

Disinfect pruner blades

91% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Antiseptic, 32 Fl Oz

Rake up dropped leaves

66" Lightweight Shrub Rake With Aluminum Handle

Isolate infected leaves

Project Source 18 Gallon Bucket With Rope Handles

4. Move Roses in Pots to a Shadier Spot

In relentless summer temperatures, heat-stressed roses can stop blooming as plants prioritize basic survival over bud production. Plants in pots are particularly susceptible as the smaller volume of soil they’re growing in loses moisture and heats up much faster than the ground. So, even if you’re watering patio pots properly, you may not be rewarded with flowers.

The best solution to protect roses from scorching heat is to move containers to a spot that still enjoys morning sun but is shaded from the intense midday and early afternoon rays. Either physically move the pot, or position a container umbrella or privacy screen to cast a shadow when the sun is at its strongest. Remember you need to shade the container as well as the plant.

It’s also worth grouping potted plants together as this also lowers local temperatures.

Plant Mover

16" Plant Caddie With Lockable Wheel

Plant-Pot umbrellas

3 26" Plant Adjustable Sun Cover Umbrellas

Standalone Screen

NÄMMARÖ Indoor/Outdoor Wooden Privacy Screen

5. Feed Rebloomers to Fuel More Flowers – But Know When to Stop

If you’ve been feeding your rose all through summer, it’s tempting to carry on through August. But you should only fertilize at this point in the year if your rose is a repeat flowerer or rebloomer, continuously throwing out new flowers or enjoying a second late-season flush. And then, it’s vital you choose a high-potassium feed.

Feeding roses that are done blooming for the year, or feeding any rose a fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen in August, will encourage leafy new growth that won’t have time to harden before the winter. The result? Stressed plants and damaged stems you’ll simply have to prune anyway in early spring.

If your rose is still blooming in August, it’s almost certainly a rebloomer or repeat-flowerer, so you can safely feed it. Choose a soluble liquid feed that’s high in potassium, tailored for rose or flower production. To check that it's high in potassium, look at the three numbers on the packaging; the last number should be the highest. Check even if it's a rose food as those designed for spring use are too high in nitrogen (indicated by the first number) to be applied in August.

(Image credit: Amateur Gardening)

Heed dilution instructions as too high a concentration can cause fertilizer burn, particularly in hot summer weather. Rather than applying the feed close to the base of the plant, target the dripline of the plant – that’s the ground beneath the outer diameter of the plant, where rain would fall – as this is where those feeder roots are concentrated. A watering can with a head that can be angled downwards makes it easier not to splash the feed on the leaves, which can cause scorching.

If you feel your rose could do with a pick-me-up and it’s done blooming for this year, or you’re not sure if it’s a rebloomer or repeat flowerer, treat it to a low dose of seaweed tonic. That will boost root growth but won’t trigger any fresh leafy stems at this point in the year.

Don't feed roses past mid-August or you’ll interfere with the plant’s natural signals to slow down and enter dormancy over winter.

High potassium rose feed

Rose Liquid Plant Food for More Blooms 3-3.6-5.1

Easy-Pour can

Bloem 2.6 Gallon Watering Can With Adjustable Head

Seaweed Tonic

Bloom City Seaweed and Kelp Liquid Fertilizer

And that's it, you're done! August rose care is all about supporting plants through the stress of summer heat, while not overdoing it so as to interrupt their natural slide into dormancy in late fall. Keep roses properly hydrated, deadheaded, fed appropriately and shaded from intense sun, while taking steps to avoid late-summer diseases, and your plants will stay happy and healthy. Do these essential rose care tasks and, if your rose is a rebloomer or a repeat flowerer, you'll be rewarded by flushes of fresh blooms, week after week.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The soil is still warm. August feels like the tail end of the growing season, which is exactly why the beds get abandoned early. Six vegetables sown now mature fast enough to fill a harvest basket before frost arrives.

Midsummer gardens start looking tired around now, and it's tempting to let the beds coast into fall. Warm soil speeds up germination, though. Shortening days work in favor of anything grown for leaves or roots. Plenty of crops planted in August will still hit maturity while the weather holds.

Match days to maturity against the average first frost date, then pad that number a little. Cold weather crops handle a light freeze without complaint. Several of them taste better after one. Anything tender has to finish before cold sets in for good, so the fast growers go in first.

Fast Crops Worth Sowing Now

Seed packet advice assume decent conditions. Fall hands out shorter days plus a cooling seedbed, so adding a week or two to that number keeps expectations reasonable.

Soil that is above 85F (29C) will stall germination on a few of these. A soil thermometer from Walmart settles that question in about half a minute.

1. Bush Beans

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Most gardeners file beans under summer and leave it there. Bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) go from seed to picking in roughly 50 days, though, so an August sowing lands comfortably ahead of frost across a lot of the country. Germination in warm ground can happen inside of three days. Beans will not tolerate freezing, at all. The countdown matters here more than it does for the hardier crops. Pick young and pick often.

2. Radishes

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Three or four weeks is the whole run from sowing to pulling, which barely counts as a commitment. Radishes (Raphanus sativus) slot into gaps between slower crops. Fall roots come out milder than spring ones — the heat that turns them sharp and woody is on its way out by then. Sow a short row every couple weeks instead of the whole packet at once, or everything sizes up together and half of it splits before anyone gets around to pulling it.

3. Carrots

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Timing gets tighter here, since even the quicker carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) want 60 to 70 days. Southern gardens have room for that. Northern ones are cutting it close unless the bed gets covered later on. Germination is the fussy part — seed sits shallow and dries out fast under an August sun, so the top inch (2.5cm) has to stay damp for a good stretch. A length of shade cloth from Amazon over the row takes some pressure off the daily watering. The cover comes off once the seedlings are through.

4. Beets

(Image credit: Connect Images / Getty Images)

Two harvests come off one planting, since the greens are worth eating long before the roots size up. Thinning plants go straight into a pan. Beets (Beta vulgaris) want 50 to 60 days for a decent root. After that they hold in the ground through several frosts, sweetening while they sit. Crowding happens no matter how carefully the sowing goes — what looks like a single seed is really a cluster. Thin to about 3 inches (8cm) once the seedlings are up.

5. Broccoli

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Seed started this late will not head up in time anywhere north of the Gulf. Transplants are the practical route for broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica). Nurseries stock them for exactly that reason. Heat stress on a young plant causes buttoning — a tiny useless head, then nothing. Shade during the first week after setting out is closer to mandatory than optional. Cabbage loopers (Trichoplusia ni) are still working in late summer and can strip a young plant fast, so netting goes on early rather than after the damage shows. Side shoots keep coming after the main head is cut.

6. Kale

(Image credit: Successo Images / Shutterstock)

Frost improves kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica). Not much else in the garden can claim that. The flavor shifts from harsh to mild over a single cold snap — cold triggers sugar production in the leaves, a rough antifreeze. Plants set out now have time to bulk up first. Harvest from the bottom leaves upward and the same plant keeps producing into winter in milder zones. That last part is reason enough on its own.

Getting the Timing Right

(Image credit: Nick David / Getty Images)

Counting backward from the average first frost date is the whole method. Take the maturity number and add ten to fourteen days for the fall slowdown. Count back from there. Anything landing past the date needs either a shorter crop or some help.

Help is cheap. A floating row cover from The Home Depot thrown over the bed on a cold night holds a few degrees. A few degrees is often the difference between losing a bean planting and getting another two weeks out of it. It's a hedge against a bad week, not a season extension in itself.

Frost dates are averages anyway — the first hard freeze can turn up well ahead of schedule, so watching the forecast through October pays off. Plant a little more than seems reasonable, and the fall table tends to take care of itself.

New to using a chainsaw? Let’s be honest, it might seem a bit daunting. Holding a chainsaw for the first time can make even the most enthusiastic gardener feel a surge of nervous adrenaline. That sudden kick of motor power, the awareness of serious slicing ability working at speed, and then there’s the noise – it’s enough to make anyone stop in their tracks.

But knowing how to use a chainsaw can be a game-changer in the backyard, and it’s not that tricky to master the basics. Once you have a handle on the basic mechanics, safety habits and correct handling, that initial hesitation quickly gives way to the thrill of highly efficient backyard cuts. Chainsaws are essential gardening tools to help you blitz through gardening projects, so it’s well worth getting acquainted. Whether you’re cutting firewood or trimming small trees, they are a real time-saver.

Armed with clear techniques, safety fundamentals, and proper preparation, operating a chainsaw can be one of the most rewarding tasks in the yard. So, here’s how to make smooth, satisfying (and safe!) cuts with your new best gardening friend.

Getting Started

If you’ve spent any time tackling yard work with a manual bow saw or loppers, you already know the exhaustion that can come with it. What starts as a simple pruning job often turns into a blisters-and-backache endurance test. Upgrading to a chainsaw can transform your gardening capabilities. Perhaps the toughest bit is getting your head around their sheer force, speed and slicing potential.

It helps to recognize that fear for what it really is: healthy respect. Your hesitation is simply your brain reminding you that you're handling a serious piece of equipment. The key to replacing that anxiety with confidence comes down to two things: setting up a controlled environment, and letting the machine do the hard labor for you. Before you touch the power switch, prepare your workspace.

(Image credit: Dmitriy Popoff / Getty Images)

Clear away trip hazards like loose vines or garden hoses. Make sure you have a solid, level footing, and a clear path to step back if a branch falls. If you are able to, it’s well worth investing in a dedicated cutting stand, work frame, or saw horse, like the WorkPro Folding Saw Horse from Amazon. Working on a firm, elevated surface is safer, protects your chain, and keeps you working at a back-friendly height. Then you're ready to start your chainsaw adventure, taking this one step at a time…

1. Safety First

(Image credit: Ramon Ivan Moreno / Getty Images)

Always wear protective gear, as it's your primary shield against flying wood chips and unexpected slips. Hearing protection, such as noise-canceling earmuffs, is essential when running power tools. For eye protection, lightweight wrap-around options like Hyper Tough Clear Safety Glasses from Walmart give you distortion-free visibility while keeping fine sawdust and stray splinters out of your eyes.

Protect your arms and legs from flying debris with heavy long sleeves and thick pants. If you want maximum reassurance, investing in dedicated leg protection like Forester Chainsaw Chaps from Amazon is a smart move. Their cut-retardant fibers are designed to instantly snag a moving chain and stop it in its tracks if a blade strays. Round out your gear with heavy-duty gloves and sensible, high-traction steel-toe or thick leather boots to keep your footing solid.

Being safe isn’t just about what you wear, though. It’s also about setting up your space and inspecting your machine. Clear a 10-foot (3m) perimeter around your workspace, and make sure children and pets are safely indoors. Inspect your chainsaw to ensure the bar oil reservoir is topped off and the chain brake engages smoothly. Never attempt to cut loose wood rolling on the ground. If you're trimming short branches or sizing down offcuts, clamp the wood into a sturdy tool like the WorkPro 4.5-Inch Swivel Bench Vise from Amazon, mounted on your workbench to keep it immobile.

2. Picking the Right Chainsaw

(Image credit: Coolpicture / Getty Images)

Choosing your first chainsaw is about finding the right balance between cutting capacity, weight, and personal comfort level. A saw that feels too heavy or unwieldy will quickly cause fatigue. And if you get tired, you’re more likely to make mistakes. Before looking at power sources, take a realistic look at your property's immediate needs. Are you clearing thin, overgrown branches once or twice a season, or are you regularly bucking thick hardwood logs for winter fuel?

You no longer have to default to heavy, loud, gas-guzzling machines. There are options for every comfort zone, from nimble one-handed tools to high-torque battery rigs. To help you pick the right cutting tool, the choice falls into one of these categories:

• Mini or Pruning Chainsaws: Exceptionally light (often 3-5 lbs) and battery-powered. Perfect for trimming overgrown shrubs, cutting back thick perennial stalks, and slicing branches up to 3 inches (8cm) thick.
• Battery-Powered Cordless Chainsaws: Quiet, low-maintenance, and emission-free. They start instantly with the pull of a trigger and deliver enough torque to cut medium-sized firewood and fallen branches without dealing with gas mixtures.
• Gas-Powered Chainsaws: Designed for heavy-duty timber cutting and storm cleanup. They offer endless runtime (as long as you have fuel), but demand more physical strength, routine motor maintenance, and pull-start operation.

Chainsaws for Beginners

If you’re shopping for your first chainsaw, the secret is matching the power source to your projects, while prioritizing safety and simple starting mechanisms. These stand-out saws strike the perfect balance between user-friendly design and cutting-edge performance.

Best Compact Pick

RYOBI Ryobi HP 18v Brushless Pruning Mini Chainsaw

Gardening Know How's Amy loves Ryobi and she rates this compact pruning saw. Loved for its lightweight agility, it operates effortlessly for quick cleanup jobs where full-sized saws feel like overkill, offering smooth maintenance and seamless battery compatibility across the 18V lineup. Power source: 18V battery (Ryobi ONE+ system), bar length: 6 inches (15cm). Best for light pruning, small limbs, panicle hydrangeas, and tight garden spots.

Best Battery All-Rounder

Greenworks Greenworks 40v 12-Inch Chainsaw, 2.0ah USB Battery and Charger

Delivering reliable cutting power without the noise, pull-cords, or gas fumes, this 12-inch (30 cm) cordless model provides push-button starts, automatic chain oiling, and a tool-less tensioning knob. Its low-vibration handle reduces arm fatigue, making it an ideal step up for general backyard property maintenance. Power source: 40V battery (Greenworks 40V system), bar length: 12 inches (30cm). Best for medium yard cleanup, storm debris, and small tree branches.

Best Value Corded Pick

BLACK+DECKER Black+Decker 12 Amp 16 Inch Electric Chainsaw (Model CS1216)

For under $100, this corded saw offers unlimited runtime without worrying about battery degradation or fuel mixing. It features a tool-free chain tensioning system for quick adjustments on the go, an automatic oiler, and a low-kickback bar engineered specifically for beginner safety. Power source: corded electric (12-amp motor), bar length: 16 inches (40cm). Best for: firewood prep, thick logs near the home or shed, and budget-conscious gardeners.

3. How to Make Smart Cuts

(Image credit: Getty)

Mastering your stance is the secret to feeling in complete command of the saw. Never stand directly behind the cutting path. Position yourself slightly to the left side of the machine so that if the saw moves unexpectedly, it clears your torso. Keep your elbows slightly flexed rather than locked rigid to absorb engine vibration.

Don’t forget those gloves. If you are looking for an upgrade on your current set or they are looking a little flimsy for chainsaw work, make sure you get something sturdy yet flexible. Try Husky Grain Cowhide Leather Impact Work Gloves from The Home Depot for thick knuckle padding and a textured palm grip. Hold your chainsaw firmly, with the front handle in your left hand and the rear in the right.

Wrap your fingers around the handles to hold the device steady and improve your control. Stand slightly to one side with your feet hip-width apart for stability. Aim to slowly lower the bottom of the blade onto the wood. Resist the temptation to exert too much pressure, though: let the chainsaw do the work for you.

(Image credit: Dan Draiss / Future)

For limbing, work from the base of the trunk upward, keeping the log between you and the blade when possible. For bucking, evaluate where the wood is under tension so your blade doesn't get pinched.

Approaching the branch, bring the engine up to full speed before touching the wood. Rest the bumper spikes (the metal teeth near the base of the bar) firmly against the log to act as a lever. Allow the weighted rotation of the chain to draw itself into the wood naturally. Forcing or pressing down on the bar stalls the motor and damages the chain teeth. Let this machine do the hard work: that’s what it’s designed for.

NB: Chainsaws are designed exclusively for right-handed operation, regardless of whether the user is left or right-handed. The left hand must always hold the front handle, and the right hand must always operate the rear trigger handle.

4. Understand and Prevent Kickback

(Image credit: Photovs / Getty Images)

Kickback occurs when the moving chain at the upper tip of the guide bar (the kickback zone) strikes a hard object or gets pinched, causing the saw to jerk upward toward you. You can minimize this risk by cutting with the middle or lower section of the bar rather than the tip. Keep an eye out for hidden fencing, roots, or neighboring branches. That proper posture is key, so keep your left hand locked on the front handle and right hand on the trigger, with your body safely out of the blade path.

A properly tensioned, sharp chain is far less prone to sagging, catching, or pinching mid-cut. Before powering up, check for chain sag and adjust the bar nuts to keep movement smooth and predictable. A handy tool for this is the OSROENE Multi-Tool Universal Scrench Spanner Wrench Set from Amazon, an inexpensive, all-in-one tool. This fits most standard bar nuts and makes quick, precise chain adjustments right in the yard.

5. Aftercare and Maintenance

(Image credit: Ambrozinio / Alamy)

Simple routine maintenance keeps your saw running smoothly, extends its working lifespan, and ensures every cut remains clean and effortless. A well-maintained saw is also fundamentally safer to use. Setting up a quick chainsaw checklist for easy maintenance makes all the difference. Immediately after use, disconnect the power (remove the battery pack or pull the spark plug cap).

Wipe down the guide bar to prevent rust, brush away wood dust and sticky resin from the bar groove and oil inlet holes, and top off the chain lubricant reservoir so it is ready for your next project. When storing your saw, remove the battery or add a stabilizer to gas tanks, keeping the unit in a dry, climate-controlled space.

Check your chain tension regularly. It should fit snugly against the bar with no more than an eighth-of-an-inch sag, while still pulling smoothly around the bar by hand. Finally, touch up dull cutting teeth with an angled round file whenever you notice the saw producing fine dust instead of clean wood chips. Keep an eye on this, and your chainsaw will keep grafting for you for years to come.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Unless you are the kind of person who always expects disasters to happen, you probably don’t lie awake at night wondering if your neighbor’s tree is going to fall into your yard. But this very real scenario does happen, especially during hurricanes and ice storms – and it could just as easily be your tree falling into a neighbor’s yard.

Unlike the hypothetical tree falling unheard in a forest, your neighbor is very likely to hear your tree as it crashes down on their house or garden. Whether this is caused by storm damage to trees or something else, one of the first questions that comes up is, “Who pays for the damage when a tree falls?”

There is a very clear, two-word answer to this question: It depends. Below are a few commonplace scenarios and how to handle them to ensure both you and your neighbor take the proper responsibility when one of your trees falls into the other's yard.

1. Damage Due to Acts of God

(Image credit: Volha Zhukava / Getty Images)

Perhaps the most common reason that healthy trees fall in a neighborhood is weather. A severe storm, a very strong wind, or a lightning strike can impact a tree on your property, causing it to fall onto the neighbor’s property. If a storm, blizzard, or other “act of God” uprooted the tree or sent a large branch to the ground, you will probably not be liable.

Although the tree started out on your property and ended up on the neighbor’s, it wasn’t your fault. You don’t control the weather! In this case, the neighbor will be responsible for any damages to his property. If their home or outbuildings were damaged, the neighbor can usually submit a claim to their homeowner’s insurance carrier.

Likewise, any damage to their car from your tree in this circumstance should be submitted to their own auto insurer. If neither car nor structure was hit, the costs of removing the tree usually fall on your neighbor.

2. Damage Due to Your Negligence

(Image credit: Ottoblotto / Getty Images)

On the other hand, if the tree that fell was dead, diseased, or rotting and you knew about it, you may be found liable both for the damages done and for the cost of removing the tree. Yes, in this case, financial responsibility depends on the health of the tree prior to the fall and what you knew it was unwell.

Your neighbor will have to prove to a court that you were negligent in this way if they sue you for damages. But if they sent you a letter or text about the unhealthy condition of the tree before it fell, that would probably be enough. Likewise, if they had a conversation with you about the hazard, this might also be sufficient, especially if a second person also heard the conversation.

3. Damage From Shared Trees

(Image credit: Joe_Potato / Getty Images)

The general law is that a tree belongs to you if the tree trunk stands on land you own. That is the case even if the current owner of the property did not plant the tree, but inherited it from another owner. However, it may be harder to prove that you knew a tree was unhealthy if the tree was not planted by you and it simply came with the house.

But what happens if the tree trunk is growing right on the property line? If any part of the trunk is on the neighbor’s property, the tree is considered shared. This scenario is a little like joint custody of kids in a divorce. The two neighbors have to negotiate the tree maintenance. Neither can trim, treat, or cut down the tree without the other’s permission and both are jointly responsible for any damage it does to either person's property.

4. Damage From Extending Branches

(Image credit: bgwalker / Getty Images)

A neighbor can take matters into their own hands if they see a large branch extending over the property line. The general rule is that a neighbor can prune off extending branches whether or not they appear in danger of falling. They can trim them up to the property line, but not over it, as long as they don’t damage the tree or go onto the adjoining property.

Any trimming that is on the owner’s side of the property boundary line will, in some states, make the neighbor liable to the owner for several times the amount of actual damages. If this trimming kills the tree, actual damages in a court case may include the price for replacing a mature tree, which can be quite expensive.

Tips to Keep You Out of Trouble

1. Keep lines of communication open with your neighbors. The more freely you can talk with one another, the easier it is to work out issues.
2. If your neighbor suggests that there may be a problem with one of your trees, take the news seriously. If you disagree, hire an arborist to take a look and offer their opinion, then share that opinion with the neighbor.
3. If the worst happens and your tree falls on the neighbor’s property, get involved. Even if it was caused by a storm and you aren’t liable, it’s good gardener etiquette to offer to help in some way.
4. Maintain your trees regularly. Most trees should be trimmed every year to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches and shape the tree. Keep your trees healthy by providing them with regular water during times of drought and treating them for insects or diseases.
5. Read and understand your homeowner’s insurance policy. You should know before any accidents what dangers you are insured against, particularly storm damage caused by falling trees or limbs.

Tree Trimming Essentials

DeWalt Pruning Chainsaw

Our experts reviewed this DeWalt pruning chainsaw and loved the big power packed into such a compact tool.

Fiskars 2-In-1 Extendable Tree Pruner and Pole Saw

Need to reach a high branch hanging over your neighbor's fence? This pole saw makes pruning tall trees easy.

Fiskars 28” Garden Bypass Loppers

Content Editor Laura loves these long-handled loppers for pruning smaller trees in her yard.

Spraying is the reflex. It knocks down whatever is flying at that moment and does nothing about why the yard looked good to them in the first place. Ticks, ants, and mosquitoes each want something specific from a property, usually moisture or cover, and a yard can be arranged to withhold it.

Not every problem takes the same fix. The common garden pests that chew leaves are a different question from the ones that bite people, and the layout answers differ too. Three changes handle most of the biting crowd. None of them involve a sprayer.

1. Make a Three-Foot Strip Ticks Won't Cross

(Image credit: Wirestock / Getty Images)

Ticks do not hop or fly. A blacklegged tick (Ixodes scapularis) climbs a stem and waits there, front legs out, for something to brush past. That habit is the weakness. Where mown lawn meets the wooded edge, a strip of gravel or wood chips about 3 feet (1m) wide leaves them nothing to climb and no moisture to sit in. Most that try to cross dry out partway. Lawns with a buffer like that tend to hold fewer ticks.

The tick barrier only works if it stays bare. Leaf litter blowing across rebuilds the humid layer ticks depend on, so raking it through a few times a season matters more than which material went down. Landscape fabric from Amazon underneath keeps weeds from stitching the two sides back together. Nothing about this is a wall. It's a border they have to cross in the open. Most never finish the trip. In addition, white-footed mice (Peromyscus leucopus) carry the ticks in to begin with, so woodpiles and bird feeders belong on the far side of the strip, well off the lawn.

2. Put the Scent Beside the Seats

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Lavender is good for repelling pests, but a lavender plant (Lavandula angustifolia) sitting still in a pot does close to nothing. Oil has to reach the air, which happens when leaves get brushed or warmed by an afternoon sun. Placement is the whole trick. Aromatic plants earn their keep within arm's reach of a chair, or spilling over a path edge where people walk through them on the way by.

Mint (Mentha x piperita) and lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) both carry compounds that make a patio less appealing to Asian tiger mosquitoes (Aedes albopictus). Neither clears a yard. What they shift is the odds close in, which is where anyone actually sits, and that species hunts low and by day. Running a hand along the stems before sitting down puts more oil in the air than the plant manages alone. Mint can spread aggressively, so keep it in a pot to stop roots from wandering. Lemongrass is not hardy through most of the country. Treating it as a container plant that comes indoors ahead of frost solves that.

3. Leave a Dry Band Where Ants Expect Mulch

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Mulch banked against a foundation is an open invitation. It keeps the seam where the wall meets the ground damp all season, which is the one condition odorous house ants (Tapinoma sessile) want. They nest in it. From there it's a short trip to any gap in the siding. Pulling the mulch back solves half of it. Filling the gap with a band of pea gravel from The Home Depot, roughly 12 inches (30cm) out from the foundation, takes the cover away too.

Depth counts for more than width. Two or three inches (5-8cm) of stone stays dry through most of the summer. A thin scatter still traps damp underneath, which defeats the point. Shrubs want cutting back from the siding for the same reason. Anything touching the house bridges the band, however wide the stone runs. None of this evicts a colony already inside a wall – but it does protect you from outside invaders.

4. Banish Standing Water

(Image credit: p4tterncuttr/Getty Images)

Mosquitoes need standing water to finish their life cycle, and not much of it. A bottle cap holds enough for Aedes albopictus. Saucers under pots, a sagging tarp, a clogged gutter, the rim of a wheelbarrow left face up – every one of those runs a small hatchery on roughly an eight-day turnaround in summer heat. Gutters are the one people miss, since the water sits out of sight and packed debris holds it there. Walking the property once a week and tipping things over disrupts more breeding than any spray manages.

Grading handles what cannot be tipped. A low spot still holding water a week after rain wants soil moved, or a shallow swale cut to carry it off. Point downspouts away from the house, not into the same puddle at the corner. Some water has to stay, though. A rain barrel counts. So does a birdbath nobody empties. Bti mosquito dunks from Amazon kill the larvae without harming fish or pollinators. Use them to make a mosquito bucket of doom, and you yard will be pleasant to sit in through the worst of the season.

Every gardener has shared this experience. You clean up the beds in spring and plant new flowers in bright, eye-catching colors. Your favorite shrubs are blooming, the climbing vine has burst into fragrant flowers, and – for a moment – everything looks absolutely stunning. You wish with all your heart that it could stay this way all year long.

But spring turns into summer, and its flowers fade. Summer blooms come and go, too. Perhaps a shrub flowers in fall, but then the garden is done for the year. If you are hoping for blooms that last much longer, the longest-flowering perennials can help extend the display. In cold-winter climates, reliable indoor bloomers can provide color when the garden cannot.

Plants With Exceptional Flowering Habits

Are there any garden flowers that genuinely remain in bloom throughout the year? That is pretty rare, but there are more than a few long-blooming perennials. Some plants steadily bloom for months on end, while others bloom repeatedly with short gaps in between flowering periods. And some houseplants can bloom almost continuously under consistent indoor conditions.

A good bloom-boosting fertilizer is essential to keep these hardworking plants performing at their best. FoxFarm Big Bloom Liquid Plant Food, available from Amazon, is formulated for both indoor and outdoor plants and is compatible with every plant on this list.

Here are my top picks that bloom for long periods, with a mix of outdoor and indoor plants.

1. Autumn Sage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Autumn sage (Salvia greggii) blooms continuously from spring through the first frost (typically March to November). This type of salvia forms mounds up to 3 feet (1 m) tall with oodles of blooms – red, pink, purple, or white. You’ll see the best flower displays during the cooler months, with lighter blooming during intense summer heat.

Pick up a two-pack of autumn sage featuring bright red blooms from Latropic at Walmart.

Care tips: Plant in a site in USDA hardiness zones 6–9 with at least 6 hours of direct sun and deadhead spent flowers. Cut the plants back in late winter before new growth starts.

2. Purslane

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is a succulent with bright yellow blooms on trailing stems. Each flower is short-lived, but they just keep coming in warm, sunny weather. Purslane can live outside and bloom all year long in USDA hardiness zones 10–11. In cooler areas, you can grow it outdoors as a flowering annual, or plant it into a container and bring it indoors for the winter.

It's quick and easy to grow purslane from seed with these heirloom non-GMO purslane seeds from TKE Farms & Gardens at Amazon.

Care tips: Plant in a full sun area with moderate temperatures. Give the plant soil with sharp drainage and water it at least once a week, twice in the heat of summer.

3. Lantana

(Image credit: Jaclyn Brottman / Getty Images)

Lantana (Lantana camera) is too pretty to be called the workhorse of the garden, but – despite its flush of tiny tubular flowers in a rainbow of colors – it is tough and reliable, growing to 6 feet (2 m) tall. In frost-free locations, lantana blooms all 12 months of the year. In cooler climates, it still flowers from spring right through the last frost. Plant it in USDA hardiness zones 7–11

You can pick up a multicolor lantana hanging basket at Lowe's.

Care tips: Plant in a full sun location in moist, well-drained soil. Give balanced fertilizer one time a year. Apply mulch around your lantana; it will keep down weeds and hold moisture in the soil.

4. 'Rozanne' Hardy Geranium

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Hardy geraniums (also called cranesbill geraniums) are flowering perennials within the Geranium genus. ‘Rozanne’ – available to buy online at Plant Addicts – is one of the longest-blooming perennials in the garden. Its small, cupped flowers are a beautiful shade of violet blue. They appear in late spring and last until the first frost.

Care tips: Plant ‘Rozanne’ hardy geraniums in a full sun location in USDA hardiness zones 5–8, with slightly acidic soil. Water the plants regularly. Apply fertilizer or compost on garden beds in early spring to help ensure the best flowering.

5. African Violet

(Image credit: Getty Images)

One of the most widely grown houseplants in the world, African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) top most lists of favorite flowering plants. Their flowers have five royal purple petals topping a rosette of fuzzy leaves. Their compact size makes them perfect for windowsills and desks. Each bloom period lasts a month or more. After a short rest period, they bloom repeatedly throughout the year under ideal conditions. They can live up to 50 years.

Pick up a four-pack of Optiflora Assorted Optimara African Violet Live Plants at Walmart.

Care tips: To keep these beauties blooming all year long, provide them with bright indirect light, water the plants from the bottom when the soil is slightly dry, and feed them regularly with a balanced bloom booster. Indoor temperatures should remain between 65–80°F (18–27°C).

6. Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis spp.)

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) offer numerous buds and exotic blooms on graceful, arching stems. Each flower spike can last up to three months, and mature plants can re-bloom multiple times a year or extend growth on existing spikes, ensuring you have blooms for most of the year. With appropriate care, moth orchids can flower year after year for two decades.

This Just Add Ice Purple Premium Orchid from Walmart is a lovely option for beginner orchid growers.

Care tips: Place your moth orchid in a location with bright, indirect light like a south- or east-facing window. Only water when the soil is dry, usually about once a week. Soak the potting medium to water it, then let it drain completely. Feed your moth orchid with a fertilizer made for orchids every month during the growing season.

7. Flamingo Flower

(Image credit: Konmesa / Shutterstock)

Flamingo or anthurium flowers (Anthurium andraeanum) are long-lasting bloomers that give your house a tropical and sophisticated ambiance. They produce their exotic waxy heart-shaped spathes in shades of red, pink, white, orange, and lavender (choose which color of anthurium you like from Plant Addicts) on and off all year long. In the right conditions, a healthy plant will produce new blooms throughout the year, offering a continuous display.

Care tips: Give the flamingo flower a bright spot indoors, a location with bright, indirect light, and high humidity. Only water when the top inch of soil is dry.

More Long-Blooming Favorites

Hot Lips Salvia Plant

Pollinators adore this hardy, vibrant salvia that won't quit blooming.

Sweet Yards Plains Coreopsis Seeds

These sunny daisy-like blooms are drought tolerant and give months of color.

Proven Winners Lemon Purrfection Catmint

This new variety has gorgeous golden foliage and lavender blue blooms that pollinators won't leave alone.

The search for the garden's next ‘it’ plant usually leads us to something rare and unusual – but what if the answer has been hiding in plain sight all along?

Once upon a decade ago, I probably would've filled every spare corner of my borders with thirsty cottage garden favorites, never giving much thought to whether they could cope with another long summer. These days, though, I'm paying far more attention to the drought-tolerant plants that still look fresh when everything else is pleading for another drink.

Yes, I think we can all admit that our gardens are changing; summers are becoming hotter, dry spells are lasting longer, and our lives are getting busier. No wonder, then, that the flowering plants that survive hot weather are stepping into the spotlight (along with slow-watering tools like the genius Back to the Roots Self-Watering Terracotta Olla Pot, no less!).

This Fragrant Favorite Is The Next 'It' Plant

I found myself doing a double take while walking the dog recently as, house after house, I spotted the same unexpected plant taking pride of place in front gardens and designer-style borders; not a dramatic ornamental grass or the latest must-have perennial, oh no. In fact, it was (drum roll, please!) none other than rosemary.

Yes, everywhere I looked, it seemed as if I could see this fragrant favorite clipped into elegant topiary, woven through gravel gardens, spilling over retaining walls and softening the edges of contemporary planting schemes. And the more I noticed it, the more I wondered if I'd done my own rosemary a disservice by tucking it away beside the kitchen door ready for roasted potatoes.

In a bid to find out, I reached out to award-winning garden designer Zoe Claymore, who just so happens to be an RHS Chelsea medallist, an NAS Ambassador, and a member of the editorial board of The Garden Design Journal. If anyone had the answers, I reasoned to myself, it was her.

(Image credit: Matchou / Shutterstock)

"Rosemary is a future-proof plant," Zoe tells me. "It's incredibly drought tolerant, thrives in sandy soils, copes brilliantly with high temperatures and needs very little care once established."

That's a pretty compelling list before you even get to the fact it's evergreen, wonderfully fragrant and completely at home in both traditional and contemporary gardens.

Unlike many ornamental plants that struggle through prolonged dry weather, rosemary seems to relish the conditions. Native to the Mediterranean, it's naturally adapted to bright sunshine, lean soils and periods without much rainfall – all qualities that are becoming increasingly valuable as gardeners look for resilient planting choices.

Shop Rosemary Plants:

TANKDA Rosemary Live Plant

A classic upright rosemary can make a striking topiary plant.

HOME GROWN Home Grown Non Gmo Rosemary Seeds Pack

If you prefer to grow rosemary from seed, look no further!

CitronellaKing 3 Creeping Rosemary in 2.5” Nursery Cubes

How pretty is this creeping rosemary variety?

I'll happily admit that I'd underestimated rosemary; to me, it was always something to snip for cooking, growing quietly in a terracotta pot near the back door. With Zoe's words ringing through my head, though, I can't stop noticing just how ornamental it really is; the fine evergreen foliage provides structure throughout the year, while its delicate blue flowers arrive surprisingly early in the season, offering an important source of nectar for bees and other emerging pollinators.

"It's fantastic for supporting wildlife," Zoe says. "Those early flowers provide valuable interest in the garden, both visually and for pollinators."

Then there's the scent! Brush past a rosemary plant and you're instantly greeted by that unmistakable aromatic fragrance. Zoe describes it as creating an "embodied experience" in the garden – one that engages far more than just your sense of sight – and I love that idea. Some gardens are beautiful to look at. The very best gardens invite you to touch, smell and properly experience them.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you're after structure, upright varieties make brilliant informal hedges and respond beautifully to clipping. Zoe has even trained rosemary into topiary in her own compact garden, proving you don't need acres of space to make a statement. For something softer, prostrate rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis 'Prostratus') has an entirely different personality. Rather than growing upwards, it gently cascades over the edges of containers, raised beds and retaining walls, creating a relaxed Mediterranean look while still delivering those fragrant leaves and pollinator-friendly flowers.

"I use it regularly as a spiller in container displays for sunny spots," Zoe says. "It softens the planting while coping brilliantly with heat."

I guess when it comes to the next 'it' plant, all we really want are flowers that support pollinators, foliage that looks good year-round, and plants that can handle drought without demanding endless watering. Is that too much to ask? Not if you direct your request at rosemary, it seems! So you'd best believe that the next rosemary I buy won't be hidden away among my herbs; it's getting the best seat in the garden.

It may be hard to believe, but beautiful holiday cactus blooms begin in summer. So the way you treat your Christmas or Thanksgiving cactus now is vital for strong, long-lasting plants that produce tons of colorful flowers at the end of the year.

August is the last month before you have to start giving your holiday cacti special care to encourage flowering. There’s no need to move them into the dark quite yet – save that for September – but there are a handful of key tasks to do now to get them ready for next month.

I’ll walk you through how to care for holiday cacti in August to ensure your plants are bursting with bright blooms for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Plus, I’ll reveal the number one summer care mistake that can ruin flowering.

1. Provide Bright, Indirect Light

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Light is the key to making a Christmas cactus bloom. These unique plants need 12-14 hours of total darkness in the fall in order to form flower buds. This light and dark period mimics their native environment and forces the plant into blooming. But don’t put your holiday cactus in the dark just yet!

In August, holiday cacti still need bright, indirect sunlight. Place your Christmas or Thanksgiving cactus in an east-facing window or behind a sheer curtain on a south or west-facing windowsill. If you moved your cactus outdoors for summer, make sure it’s not getting too much light as the sun shifts throughout the season. Too much sunlight can end up turning Christmas cacti foliage purple or reddish.

2. Fertilize Before Buds Form

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

August is a good time to give your Christmas or Thanksgiving cacti a dose of bloom-boosting fertilizer. This plant food from Amazon is made specifically for Christmas cacti and is heavy in phosphorus, which encourages flowering.

Fertilizing holiday cacti now provides them with the essential nutrients for buds to form before you begin forcing buds in the fall. This should be your last feeding for a while. Don’t fertilize Christmas cacti while they’re forming buds and blooms in fall and into winter.

3. Slowly Cut Back on Watering

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

In August, you still need to water your Christmas cactus regularly so the soil remains moist but not soggy. However, as the month goes on and plants get closer to bud formation time, you can start cutting back on how much you water.

If you moved your Christmas cactus outdoors for the summer and it’s still outside during the month of August (which is totally fine), you shouldn’t cut back on watering quite as much as if your plant was indoors. Container plants dry out faster outdoors in the summer heat and wind, so keep an eye on plants to make sure they’re getting enough moisture. You can use a simple soil moisture meter from Amazon to check if your plant needs more water.

The #1 Summer Mistake

There is one task you should take off your to-do list this month. Don’t repot your holiday cactus right now. Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti are plants that actually prefer to be root bound, so they don’t often need repotting – only once every 3-5 years or so.

Repotting Christmas cacti in late summer or early fall is also the wrong time for this task, even if your plant does need a bigger container. It may seem logical to move them into a new pot when you bring your plant inside around this time of year, but it can cause too much shock to your cactus just as it needs to store up its energy for blooming. Plus, root bound plants flower better.

The best time to repot plants is right after blooming. Wait until the end of the holiday season to move your cactus into a bigger pot. Only increase the pot size by 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter and use a well-draining cacti potting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Whether you have a small yard or a large space to maintain, there's one thing for certain: you'll need to have some reliable tools you can rely on. From lawn mowers to pruning shears and hedge loppers, there are so many bladed yard tools out there that make gardening so much easier – that is, if the tools are properly cared for.

I can still remember the many times my dad would wrestle with a clogged-up lawn mower, since its dulled blades were failing to cut the grass. Fortunately, he didn't need to buy a new mower, he just needed to switch up the way he cared for the gear, by sharpening its blades. Sharpening essential garden tools is often something that gets put off. But once friction, soil grit, and tough plant fibers have grappled with your tools, they become harder to use and can quite literally lose their edge.

Many home gardeners never sharpen their gear. Some worry they’ll ruin the blade, while others treat bladed tools as disposable, buying cheap replacements every couple of seasons. But dull blades crush plant tissue, and often force you to work harder, leading to sore wrists and fatigue. Taking a little time to hone your steel changes everything. By keeping a basic sharpener in your shed, you cut your labor in half, keep plants healthier, and save hundreds of dollars. Interested? Meet the super tools that make all your other cutting tools instantly better.

Sharpen Your Act

You might be wondering, how do you really know if your blades need a tune-up? A quick inspection under a good light will tell you everything you need to know. Look down the cutting edge: if you see tiny shiny nicks, rounded dull spots, or burrs reflecting light, your edge is spent. You can also run a piece of scrap paper along the blade. If it catches and tears rather than slicing cleanly, it’s time to sharpen your tool.

Before sharpening, always make sure you wipe down the metal with a stiff brush first, like the UHuse Mini Wire Brush Set from Walmart, or a damp cloth to strip off sap and soil. Then grab a clean rag, a reliable protective oil such as 3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil from Amazon, and your sharpener of choice from the list below.

(Image credit: Ondacaracola Photography / Getty Images)

Your choice of sharpener will depend on the garden tool. Fine bypass pruners require precise, small-profile diamond stones. Heavy steel spades and rough lawn mower blades respond better to flat mill files or power angle grinders. Premium vintage carbon steel tools hold an edge longer than budget modern stainless steel. Budget steel requires light, frequent touch-ups to keep from turning dull.

Top Sharpening Tools

(Image credit: Bibek Raj Giri. Getty Images)

If you're fed up with blunt gardening tools, or forking out for tools that never seem to last that long, or just want to make sure yours stay in tip top condition, you've come to the right place. Here's a rundown of the top blade-sharpening tools recommended by lawn and gardening experts, as well as what you can use each tool for, and why it's so great for the job…

1. Felco 903 Diamond Sharpener

(Image credit: Frank60. Getty Images)

Gene Caballero, co-founder of GreenPal, recommends the Felco 903 Diamond Sharpener, available from Amazon, as a great tool to have on hand, due to its exceptional versatility. It can sharpen all kinds of gear, so you only need to purchase the one sharpening tool to care for all the bladed garden tools you own.

"The one gardening tool I recommend the most to homeowners is the Felco 903 Diamond Sharpener,” says Gene. “It's perfect for pruning shears, loppers, and hedge trimmers because of the diamond coated surface. It helps restore the sharp edge quickly without removing any excess metal."

Gene points out it's important to wipe the blades of your tools after sharpening them and to apply a light coat of oil afterwards. Doing this will prevent debris sticking to your tools, and protect the sharpened edge from rusting. A microfiber cloth and a dab of Trend Diamond Abrasive Lapping Fluid from Amazon should do the trick.

Sharpen bypass pruners every 3-4 uses during peak pruning season. Always follow the factory bevel angle (around 20 degrees) and push the sharpener in smooth, one-way strokes away from your body. Never grind the flat back side of bypass shears, or you'll create a gap between the blades that jams wood fibers.

• Best For: Bypass pruners, loppers, floral shears, and hedge trimmers. Crafted from hardened steel with a high-grade diamond coating, this slim sharpener reaches into tight spaces bulky stones can't touch.

Felco Felco Sharpening Tool F903 Steel Diamond Coated Sharpener Stone

2. SHARPAL Dual-Grit Diamond Sharpening Stone File

(Image credit: Pauws99 / Getty Images)

Lindsey Boney, a produce expert at Windmill Farms Market with a deep-rooted family history in farming, recommends the SHARPAL 181N Dual-Grit Diamond Sharpening Tool, available from Walmart. Its long, flat surface is perfect for filing larger tools which get worn down over time, such as hoes and spades.

Crucially, Lindsey encourages people purchasing this product to use it little and often. She explains: "A common mistake is waiting until a tool is completely dull before sharpening it. Light touch-ups throughout the season remove less metal, helping quality tools last much longer."

Touch up your soil tools (spades and hoes) monthly. A sharp spade slices through tough roots and compacted clay soil like butter, saving your back from strain. Use the coarse side first to file down rough rock nicks. Then flip to the fine side to refine the edge. Always wear leather work gloves while working. By maintaining soil tools, you prevent blade curling, adding decades to your favorite spades.

• Best For: Digging spades, edging irons, weeding hoes, axes, and machetes. Featuring a dual-grit surface, this versatile steel file includes a wide handguard to protect your fingers during aggressive strokes.

Sharpal Sharpal 181n Dual-Grit Diamond Sharpening Stone With Leather Pouch

3. DCK 4.5-Inch Angle Grinder

(Image credit: Nico De Pasquale Photography / Getty Images)

Steve Corcoran, CEO of Lawn Love, insists a good-quality angle grinder like the DCK 4.5-Inch Angle Grinder from Amazon is ideal for sharpening tools. They're easy to use and rotate really fast for a precise sharpen. Also, many different attachments exist on the market, so if you already own an angle grinder, you can easily find the attachment you need for sharpening your items. Just use a flat disc when filing your tools to ensure you maintain a smooth surface on the blades.

Steve explains why opting for a flat disc is essential: "Think of what it’s like trying to cut through string when it’s pulled taut versus when it’s loose. It’s the same kind of idea, with a sharp blade being able to cut through plant matter much easier and cleaner. A traumatic cut from a dull blade makes a plant more susceptible to problems like plant diseases, and it can also just look worse."

Sharpen lawn mower blades twice a season (mid-spring and midsummer). Always secure the blade tightly in a bench vise before grinding, and always wear safety goggles like Hyper Tough Clear Safety Glasses from Walmart, as well as heavy gloves to protect against high-speed metal sparks. Use short, light passes with a flat flap disc. Considering lawn care services can charge upwards of $20 per blade sharpen, doing it yourself at home quickly pays for this power tool.

• Best For: Heavy-duty mower blades, brush cutter blades, heavily rusted tools. For thick, heavy-duty steel like lawn mower blades that take a beating from rocks and hidden roots, manual hand-filing can take ages. A power angle grinder restores a wrecked edge in under two minutes.

DCK DCK Angle Grinder

4. WorkPro W051002 10-Inch Flat Mill File

(Image credit: BanksPhotos / Getty Images)

If you're in a pinch, working on a tight budget, or simply don't have much space to store extra tools, Steve reveals that a sturdy high-quality hand file can work wonders for sharpening your garden tools. You'll be looking for something that is decently abrasive, as well as easy for you to hold while you file down the blades.

The WorkPro W05100210 from Amazon is durable, incredibly streamlined for storing, and comes with a comfortable anti-slip handle for ease of use. If you're looking for something similar at an even lower price point, the Ergonomic Wvapzwr 8in Flat Mill File, also from Amazon will only set you back by $6.99. It's an Amazon's Choice product and boasts use for sharpening all kinds of tools, including lawn mower blades and garden shears.

Mill files only cut on the forward stroke. Lift the file on the return stroke. Dragging it backward can ruin the teeth. Keep a wire file card or stiff brush nearby to clear out clogged metal filings from the teeth as you work. Rubbing a piece of chalkboard chalk onto the file face before filing prevents soft metal sticking in the teeth.

• Best For: Lawn mower blades, garden shears, turf edgers, and general steel tools. High-carbon steel flat mill files are the unsung heroes of the tool shed. They require no electricity, offer maximum control, and cost less than a cup of artisanal coffee.

WorkPro WorkPro W051002 10

Shop Sharpening Extras

(Image credit: Peter Carruthers / Getty Images)

Maintaining sharp blades is a victory for common sense and your wallet. Just save a little time for proper cleaning, lubrication, and secure setup to ensure that both your sharpener and cutting gear last you for decades. Spending a few dollars on these accessories will save you serious time during maintenance and protect your fingers while filing. Pair your sharpeners with these top-rated bench accessories.

Top Tool Care Trio

Fluid Protection

TREND Trend Diamond Abrasive Lapping Fluid

Specially formulated for diamond sharpeners, this mineral-based fluid prevents rust, reduces friction, and floats away metal dust to keep diamond surfaces from clogging up during use.

Sap Cleaner

Felco Felco 980 Maintenance Lubricant Spray

Sticky plant sap and resin act like glue on shear blades, dulling edges faster than normal wear. A quick spritz cleans off gunk and leaves a protective anti-corrosion coating on raw steel.

Workbench Security

WorkPro WorkPro 4.5 Inch Swivel Bench Vise

Safety comes first when filing mower blades or heavy hoes. Clamping your tools firmly into a heavy-duty bench vise keeps both hands free for controlled, steady filing strokes.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Earlier this year we lost Sam Neill. The star of Jurassic Park, Hunt for the Wilderpeople, and Peaky Blinders, he was also a winemaker, farmer, and by all accounts lovely person.

Three years ago, Neill was already thinking about the end of his life. When he spoke to The Guardian in 2023, he was in remission from Stage 3 blood cancer. And the thing that was weighing on him most was his garden.

"I'm not afraid to die, but it would annoy me. Because I'd really like another decade or two, you know? We've built all these lovely terraces, we've got these olive trees and cypresses, and I want to be around to see it all mature.”

Sam Neill, March 2023

He went on to say he’d like to see as much of his grandchildren’s lives as possible, too. But the trees are what stood out to me.

Welcome to the inaugural Quote of the Week, a series where every Monday I'll take a look at a notable quotation about plants, gardening, and nature, and explore what it can teach us all about our connection to the garden. Who better to start with than the late, great Sir Sam Neill?

The Best Time to Plant a Tree Was 30 Years Ago

The second best time to plant a tree is today. It’s an old proverb you hear, and one that’s been attributed and misattributed so much that no one knows where it came from. The idea is that trees take a long time to reach their full potential, so if you want a nice tree, you want one that's already mature. At the same time, today will be 30 years ago before you know it, so there's no time like the present to start.

It's a lovely message as well as good gardening advice, and it’s one that Sam Neill seemed to hold dear.

On his Instagram (which is a real treat if you need some wholesome Kiwi farm content in your life) he mused extensively about the lifetimes of trees, and how they often vastly outstrip our own.

Sam Neill talks about trees

A photo posted by on

“You don’t really plant for yourself. You plant for future generations, because you’ll never see that tree in its full magnificence like this one here,” he says, gaze traveling upward to the massive Wellingtonia, or giant sequoia, above him.

Trees, if all goes well, are meant to outlive us. They're a tether to the past, like the ones planted by Neill's great-grandfather or Witness Trees, which saw historical events no living person can remember. They're also a lifeline into the future, a way to speak to our descendants after we're long gone.

It seems clear, then, that Sam Neill knew he likely wouldn't see those olive and cypresses reach their full height. His annoyance wasn't with a life cut short, but just with time and its inexorable way of marching on. None of us are any closer to slowing time down, so it's best just to accept it and, like Sam Neill, plant trees as often as you can. Thirty years from now, someone will quietly thank you.

Trees You Can Plant Today

Shumard Oak Tree

Red Sunset® Maple Tree

Heritage® River Birch

After weeks of relentless summer heat, I wasn't expecting to see many flowers looking their best on my latest walk. I spent several hours wandering through fields before looping back through my neighborhood, and while weeds were thriving – as they always seem to – most ornamental plants looked tired, faded or downright crispy.

Then one cute purple perennial completely stopped me in my tracks. Well, technically, my toddler spotted it first, and a few minutes later she came sprinting toward me holding a single bloom triumphantly above her head like a tiny trophy. It took me a moment to identify what she'd picked, but once I managed it, I couldn't stop noticing them.

Honestly, everywhere I looked were clusters of delicate lavender-colored blooms looking fresher and happier than almost everything else I'd seen that afternoon. And, while surrounding borders looked as though they were simply enduring the summer, these pretty perennials seemed to be positively thriving.

All hail, then, the pincushion flower! Especially as, with so many different hues available, there's a variety to suit everyone (I'm already swooning over this Vivid Violet Pincushion Flower from Nature Hills).

This Cute Purple Perennial Loves Hot Summers

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The warm weather makes me sluggish so it took me a hot minute to realize that the cute purple perennial shaking off blazing hot temperatures like it was no big deal was a pincushion flower (Scabiosa).

As someone who's always looking for plants that combine beauty with resilience, I immediately wanted to know more. It turns out pincushion flowers aren't just pretty – they're surprisingly drought tolerant, bloom for months, and are adored by bees and butterflies and other pollinators.

This seems a bit weird, because at first glance, pincushion flowers look really delicate, floating on their wiry stems and softening everything without overwhelming neighboring plants. Don't, though, let that graceful appearance fool you!

Shop Scabiosa Plants:

Clovers Garden Scabiosa Butterfly Blue (Pincushion) Plants

Basically identical to the pincushion flower I saw thriving on my morning walk, I adore the soft blue-purple hue of this variety!

Mountain Valley Seed Company Unique Lavender, Blush & Ivory Pincushion Seed Mix

If you find it hard to choose (and I'm right there with you; you should see me when I'm scrolling through Netflix), why not go for a variety pack?

Gardening Treasures Scabiosa Salmon Rose Seeds

You don't have to go purple if you don't want to; there are plenty of pretty in pink varieties, too.

That's right, folks! Many Scabiosa varieties are super resilient once established, thriving in full sun, coping well with hot weather, and not demanding constant watering. Depending on the variety, perennial pincushion flowers are generally hardy in USDA Zones 3-8, with some extending into Zone 9.

They perform best in full sun and well-drained soil, where their roots can establish before periods of summer drought – but if your garden fits the bill, and you're looking to build a more resilient garden that still delivers plenty of color, they are absolutely worth your time. Especially as bees, butterflies, and other pollinators love them.

And, if you need any further persuading, the bloom period on these cute purple perennials is wild! With regular deadheading, they can flower from late spring right through fall, providing months of color long after many other perennials have finished their display (maximum impact, minimum effort).

FAQsIs scabiosa invasive?

Although they're related, ornamental pincushion flowers shouldn't be confused with field scabious (Knautia arvensis) or other wild scabious species that can spread more aggressively in some regions.

The cultivated Scabiosa varieties commonly sold by nurseries are generally well behaved in garden borders, but it's always worth checking local guidance before planting any new perennial.

What flowers can take full sun and heat?

Many flowering plants thrive in full sun and hot weather, especially once established. Heat-tolerant favorites include pincushion flower (Scabiosa), salvia, lavender, coneflower (Echinacea), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), gaillardia (blanket flower), verbena, lantana and coreopsis.

All of these plants are well adapted to sunny conditions and often continue blooming through summer with relatively little maintenance. And, while most will appreciate occasional deep watering during prolonged dry spells, they're generally much more resilient than thirstier perennials, making them excellent choices for gardeners who want to beat the heat.

(Image credit: Heidi Perrot / Getty Images)

Sometimes the best gardening discoveries happen completely by accident, right? I set out expecting another walk filled with heat-stressed plants and fading flowers. Instead, thanks to my observant toddler, I discovered a cute purple perennial that seemed completely unfazed by the challenging conditions.

Beautiful, easygoing, pollinator-friendly and capable of flowering for months, you'd best believe that pincushion flowers have quickly climbed to the top of my planting wish list. And I have a feeling they might just become your newest garden obsession too.

The right plant care in August has a huge impact on the flavor and appearance of tomatoes, as well as how long your harvest lasts for. We’re approaching peak tomato harvesting period this month, so how you look after your plants directly affects the quality as well as quantity of fruit. Start redirecting the plant’s energy on fruit formation and ripening, rather than needlessly growing more foliage, and you will be rewarded with tons more tastier tomatoes.

Without appropriate, targeted care in August, your tomatoes may split, develop unsightly black spots on their bases, and plants might fall prey to fungal disease and red spider mites that put an abrupt end to your harvest. With the right care, however, plants will stay happy, healthy and continue to produce plump, flavorful tomatoes for many weeks to come.

None of these 5 steps are a difficult part of growing tomatoes so get this essential August tomato care right and you can look forward to your best harvest yet. Understanding why you’re doing each task is a key part of keeping tomato plants producing all summer. Why? Because then you’ll be able to tweak each care task to perfectly suit your growing conditions and tomato varieties, whether you’re raising cherry toms or beefsteak tomatoes, outdoors or in a greenhouse, in any zone. Here’s everything you need to know for tip-top August tomato plant care so you can enjoy your best crop yet.

1. Strip Off Lower Leaves to Reduce Disease

(Image credit: Getty Images)

First on the list of what to do with tomato plants in August is to strip off some of the lower leaves of indeterminate tomatoes. These plants will be dense with foliage by now, and removing some at stem bases allows better airflow, which in turn reduces the risk of disease. It also allows sunlight in to ripen fruit, and allows you to spot any developing issues faster.

This seems like a fairly drastic task but, as long as you don’t strip off leaves any higher than the halfway point of the plant, you’re doing more good than harm. I start by stripping lower leaves at soil height at the start of August, then take off another layer every week, gradually raising the leafless height to halfway as peak harvesting time is reached. This gradual strip doesn’t shock the plant, and reveals tomatoes just as they need the ripening sun.

Why bother? Well, late tomato blight, when fungus-like organism Phytophthora infestans infects plants and causes both leaves and fruit to rot, is a big risk at this time of year, particularly for outdoor toms. Indoors, leaf mold – which brings similar symptoms to the leaves, often with a grey-brown mold on the undersides – is the harvest slayer to avoid. For both, good airflow around the plants is the very best prevention, and stripping off lower leaves is the number one way to achieve it.

Removing lower leaves from the plants also makes it much easier to irrigate without wetting the leaves, further reducing the risk of disease.

There’s no need to strip leaves from determinate tomatoes, though do remove any leaves touching the soil to reduce disease risk.

2. Prune for a Full, Flavorful Harvest

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Channelling plants’ energy into growing fruit rather than foliage now is the difference between a basic crop and a bumper harvest so, if you're wondering how to get a good tomato harvest, get your hand pruners at the ready! Remember, indeterminate tomatoes are vines, and they’ll keep growing – and growing – until the frost kills them, so if you want lots of fruit you need to curtail that growth, and redirect that energy into fruit production.

Keep cutting or pinching off any shoots that grow in the junctions between the main stem and leaf stalks. This stops plants wasting energy on growing fresh stems and foliage.

In mid-August, or when a plant has around four or five trusses of tomatoes, pinch out the main growing tip of indeterminate tomatoes. All you have to do is use hand pruners to snip off the uppermost few inches of the main stem, or simply snap it off with your hands. This halts the vine’s upward growth, redirecting its energy into ensuring existing tomatoes grow.

(Image credit: Amateur Gardening)

Depending on your zone, the variety you’re growing, and whether or not you can be bothered to ripen green tomatoes off the plant, you can also snip off newly-formed flower trusses at the end of August as there’s unlikely to be enough time for them to develop fully before the season ends.

Cherry tomatoes typically take around 45-60 days to grow from flower to full-sized ripe fruit; beefsteak toms can take up to 90 days. As well as cold weather slowing growth, temperatures above 86°F can slow development, too. So, keep your eye on the thermometer and gauge whether or not it's worth remove any new flower trusses to concentrate the plant's energy into existing fruit.

Sharp snips

Fiskars SmartFit Steel Bypass Hand Pruners

Stay tidy

18 Gallon Storage Bucket With Rope Handles

Weather watch

Bee Analog Outdoor Wall Thermometer

3. Water Consistently for High-Quality Fruit

(Image credit: Getty Images)

How consistently you water your plants now will directly impact the quality of your crop. Erratic watering can cause tomato skins to split, and lead to dark, flat patches at the base of fruit, called blossom end rot. While blossom end rot is caused by a lack of calcium, it’s very rare that soil or compost lacks this element – the problem almost always lies in a lack of consistent water which the plant needs to transport calcium to where it’s needed.

Aim for consistent, steady watering to keep a fairly even level of moisture in the soil. Shading your tomato plants from the harsh midday sun will dramatically reduce evaporation, so this is another way you can help even out soil moisture levels. If it’s easier to rig up more general shade, then using a shade cloth that blocks 30-40% of rays will still allow enough sunlight through to ripen fruit.

Greenhouse shade

UV Protected Greenhouse Shade Kit

30% Shade

30% Breathable Shade Cloth for Fruit and Vegetables

Simple Set-Up

40 Shade Cloth Clips for Mesh and Thin Shade Fabric

Once most fruits have set and are ripening, if the weather isn't too hot, slightly reducing watering will concentrate sugars and flavor. Never reduce irrigation so much that leaves wilt, and it's also important to lessen the volume of water given rather than reduce frequency, so moisture levels remain consistent.

4. Feed Weekly, But Know When to Stop

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you're wondering when you should stop feeding tomato plants, you're not alone as this is a common query. And knowing when to stop fertilizing plants is just as important as knowing when to start, and one of the most critical pro growing tips for a long-lasting tomato harvest.

Until the uppermost clusters of fruit are full-sized, you should continue feeding your tomato plants once a week with a high-potassium tomato fertilizer such as Espoma Organic Tomato! Food, available from Amazon. However, as soon as you start redirecting the plants’ energy to ripening fruit that’s already set, especially if you halt the upwards growth of indeterminate plants by pinching out the tip of the main stem, it's vital not to over-fuel. Too much food can cause fertilizer burn, excess foliage and actually slow fruit production

So, from mid-August, gradually reduce the strength of the feed, tapering off so you don’t abruptly stop this supply of nutrients.

5. Watch Out For Spider Mites

(Image credit: Getty Images)

All the hot, dry air of this El Niño summer has created ideal conditions for red spider mites. These sap-sucking critters can ruin a harvest, but are easily controlled if you spot them in time and act quickly.

Don’t rely on being able to see the mites themselves as they're tiny. Instead look out for:

• Moving dots. While the mites are minute, you may spot what looks like moving specks of dust. And don't expect them to be red! At this time of year red spider mites are often a yellowish green, only turning red – and becoming more visible on leaves – in fall.
• Damaged leaves. If there’s an infestation, leaves will first become stippled, where individual cells have been sucked dry, then turn mottled, pale and eventually die and drop.
• Fine silky webs around stems or leaves.
• A build-up of white cast skins and egg shells on the undersides of leaves.

(Image credit: Amateur Gardening)

The quicker you act, the better, as high summer heat speeds egg hatching from around 55 days to 7, and a female spider mite can lay 10-20 eggs a day. Remove infected leaves and wash the plant with a jet of water. Coat all surfaces, but particularly the undersides of leaves with a neem oil spray.

Do double-check if the neem oil is already diluted: if you have raw neem oil, mix 1-2 teaspoons into a quart of warm water, before using. To help the oil and water combine, add half a teaspoon of mild liquid dish soap to the water first.

Spray plants once a week for three weeks to catch any newly-hatching mites and break the lifecycle. Sprayed leaves are more easily scorched by the sun, so consider shading if necessary.

Ready-to-use spray

Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil Spray

Dilute before use

Harris Concentrated 100% Filtered Neem Oil

Efficient spray bottle

Vivosun 27oz Handheld Garden Pump Sprayer

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Tomato plant care in August is all about directing energy towards producing a plentiful harvest, and keeping plants disease-free so that process can continue for as long as possible into fall. Stripping lower leaves, tactical pruning, consistent irrigation, well-timed feeding and controlling pests will all help your plants happy and healthy, so they can keep providing you with a flavorful harvest week after week. And that's more than enough reward for the time it takes to complete these simple late-summer tomato care tasks.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Ah, air conditioners. They are sort of like compost piles: useful, even essential, but pretty darned unappealing to look at. So no wonder you fancy hiding them behind a couple of better-looking plants. Trouble is, most AC units are picky about what gets close to them. If you are thinking of hiding your unit with leafy plants, be on notice: if you restrict the airflow to the air conditioner, you may lose that cold air entirely.

Beyond the obvious visual frustration of an industrial metal box ruining your patio view, there is also the hum-and-buzz of the compressor running all summer long. If this is all sounding like a bit of a nightmare, take heart. If you choose the right types of shrubs, hiding the AC unit is possible. You just have to select the appropriate plants for the purpose, and grow them at an appropriate distance.

Fortunately, evergreen shrubs offer a brilliant workaround. Their dense foliage doesn't just block line of sight: the thick leaves and woody stems naturally muffle high-frequency sound waves, creating a quieter backyard vibe. Planted correctly during late summer, these robust specimens establish quickly in warm ground, concealing a noisy eyesore behind a lush, gentle living screen that requires minimal long-term care and maintains its soothing presence all year round.

Best Shrubs to Conceal AC Units

Selecting plants to screen that bulky AC unit involves some of the same criteria you might apply to making friends in the office. You want to pick individuals that are steady, stable, and know how to be friendly, without encroaching on precious space. In the case of shrubs and AC units, you’ll want a clearance of 3 feet (1 m) on all sides of the unit, and twice that above it. The shrubs in this selection have dense foliage to block the view and muffle noise, and they hold onto that foliage all year long. They also have roots that don’t spread enough to impede the machine.

Before planting these low maintenance shrubs, assess your unit's layout and service access needs. HVAC technicians need clear access to electrical panels and service valves, so never plant a solid wall on all four sides. Leave a removable decorative trellis or a 3-foot (90 cm) clearance path for maintenance. With the practical requirements of the technicians sorted, you can focus on the needs of the plant.

(Image credit: TrongNguyen / Getty Images)

These shrubs are fine for summer planting, but consider your hardiness zone and existing soil conditions before planting. Soil right next to house foundations and heat-venting AC fan exhausts dries out twice as fast. Check soil moisture before planting to ensure long-term survival. Use a good soil diagnostic tool, such as the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon. This gives you real-time moisture readouts to see whether the soil near those hot AC exhaust vents is drying out.

Where conditions are heavy clay or sand, blend a little organic matter (such as aged compost) into the planting hole to help with drainage. It’s also a good idea to add a little biochar, such as Wakefield Premium Biochar Soil Conditioner from Lowe’s to protect soil nutrients and help with moisture retention. Add a couple of inches of a light organic mulch, such as a shredded hardwood bark or composted leaf mold. Then water shrubs deeply. Keep watering through the growing season, to help these shrubs develop strong, deep roots.

1. Boxwood

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Your best bet when trying to mask an ugly AC unit (and that’s pretty much all of them) is to select evergreen shrubs with a compact habit. These are easier to maintain than sprawling types. For this, the quintessential evergreen is boxwood (Buxus spp). These are self-contained evergreens and will grow in sun, partial sun or even deep shade. They are drought tolerant and thrive in hardiness zones 5-9. You can choose from a range of boxwood shrubs, such as Green Velvet, Sprinter and Calgary Boxwood.

They are great for structural screening, thanks to their small, leathery leaves that form a living wall of green. This thick canopy acts as an effective acoustic barrier. Boxwoods flourish in container gardening schemes if you choose a weather-resistant planter with drainage holes. Add a little Espoma Organic Plant-tone from Walmart for a slow release of microbes that promotes steady root growth and vibrant foliage.

Boxwoods grow up at around 6in (15 cm) growth per year. While this doesn’t sound all that astonishing, these shrubs rapidly fill out their dense interior leaves, giving you a solid green acoustic wall faster than almost any other structural shrub. Perfect if you want a set-it-and-forget-it shape that won't sprint into your AC clearance zone.

2. Arborvitae

(Image credit: Klaus Steinkamp / Alamy)

If you’re like me, you’ve planted arborvitae plants (Thuja spp.) like Green Giant that shoot up quickly, creating a tall, deep wind break. But these are not the best options to put on AC duty. Instead, use narrow varieties like Emerald Green (T. occidentalis). They top out at 10 feet (3 m) and maintain a narrow 3-foot (1 m) spread, offering year-round color in zones 2-7. Buy Emerald Green Arborvitae from Fast Growing Trees. Their soft, scale-like foliage traps ambient mechanical noise very well.

Dwarf globe cultivars like Fire Chief or Mr. Bowling Ball reach 3-4 feet (0.9-1.2 m) tall and wide without requiring heavy pruning. They prefer full sun to partial shade and moist, well-draining soil. Just avoid planting them directly in the blast path of hot AC exhaust air. Acid-loving arborvitae shrubs benefit from a sprinkling of Espoma Organic Holly-Tone Fertilizer, available from Lowe’s. This organic feed supplies essential sulfur and iron to keep needles rich and vibrant.

With arborvitae shrubs, you can expect fast vertical screening. This evergreen shoots up at a steady 12 inches (30 cm) per year in its early years, making it one of the quickest ways to build a tall, narrow sightline barrier without invading your AC unit's footprint.

3. Mediterranean Cypress

(Image credit: Grace Cary / Getty Images)

Narrow cypress varieties are a top choice for hiding an outdoor AC unit, with their dense, evergreen foliage and narrow waistline. A line of regular Mediterranean cypress (aka Italian cypress) grows like a row of 50 feet (15 m) tall exclamation points with 5 foot spread, narrowing at the crown. This will hide your AC, but may be too tall to make the cut for this gig. Instead, pick a dwarf cultivar like Tiny Tower (C. s. 'Monshel') that tops out at 10 feet (3m) tall. They thrive in zones 7-10. Buy Italian Cypress from Nature Hills for mass planting.

Thriving in full sun and heat, this tough fast-growing evergreen tolerates drought once settled. Just don’t allow them to sit in soggy soil. If your soil is clay-based, it’s a good idea to blend a few scoops of coarse sand, a grit-rich soil, or a cactus mix such as Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix from Walmart into the planting hole. This will prevent waterlogging and root rot.

Dwarf Italian cypress shoots up quickly, although it’s fair to say that its dwarf habit keeps its footprint narrow. That said, it gains 2 feet (60 cm) of height per year when young. While it is one of the fastest choices on the list, it also manages to keep a neat 2-foot (60 cm) waistline.

4. Inkberry Holly

(Image credit: Diane Labombarbe / Getty Images)

Inkberry holly (Ilex glabra) is a broadleaf evergreen. Unlike close relatives, its leaves are not prickly but smooth, and its fruit is dark. It prefers damp acidic soil and full sunshine. Inkberry holly can grow to 10 feet (3 m) tall and about half that wide in zones 4-11. For something smaller, look at cultivars like 'Densa' that grow to 6 feet (2 m) in height, or 'Compacta' that stop at 4 feet (1 m) tall. These shrubs thrive in USDA hardiness zones 4-11. You can buy Proven Winners Gem Box Inkberry Holly Live Plants from Walmart for low hedges, small specimens, and containers.

As a native, inkberry holly supports local pollinators while offering year-round cover. It thrives in damp, acidic soils and tolerates partial shade. If your utility area sits in a low-lying spot that collects rainwater, this moisture-tolerant shrub is ideal. You can give your inkberry a boost by treating it to a little seaweed or kelp feed. Buy GS Plant Foods Organic Concentrated Liquid Kelp from Amazon. This feed is packed with vitamins and minerals to help hollies resist heat stress and transplant shock.

Your inkberry will fill out steadily, growing into a dense acoustic screen without requiring constant pruning. It offers fast visual fill, adding 12 inches (30 cm) per year, quickly knitting its fine branches together into a thick, sound-dampening screen that looks complete in just a couple of seasons.

5. Skip Laurel

(Image credit: Bildagentur Online McPhoto / Alamy)

Skip or schip laurel (Prunus laurocerasus 'Schipkaensis') is a broadleaf evergreen. This cherry laurel is known for its narrow habit, while reaching 10-18 feet tall (3-6 m). It makes an excellent, low-maintenance privacy hedge with its upright growth habit and dense foliage. It is also cold hardy, thriving in zones 5-9. These shrubs shrug off urban pollution and salt spray, and thrive in most soils, as long as they offer good drainage. You can buy Skip Laurel Shrubs from Fast Growing Trees.

If your outdoor AC unit is located under a deck or high tree canopy, this is ideal. Its large, glossy leaves reflect light and provide superior acoustic dampening. Delicate white spring flower spikes add seasonal interest. It grows vigorously, so trim away any stray branches drifting toward your AC unit. A little fungicide, such as Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart, protects these laurels against powdery mildew and leaf spot. This is the quickest grower on the list if you need to block a loud AC unit ASAP, putting on 2 feet (24 inches) per year. However, it will need some annual summer trimming to maintain good flow around the unit.

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Planting a few fast-growing shrubs is just the ticket to cool down a sun-drenched spot in the yard or on the patio. Besides providing shade, plants release cooling water vapor through transpiration, so they consistently add moisture to the air, driven by sun and heat. Plants with dense foliage or large leaves tend to give off the most moisture.

When choosing shade shrubs for the garden, be sure to add the colors green, blue, and violet, which are considered cooling, calming colors for the garden. Shrubs with yellow foliage and red or orange flowers may increase the hot vibe, so stick to shrubs with shades of green, blue, and violet.

Summer Planting Requires Extra Care

Nursery container-grown shrubs can be planted during the summer, but you should take extra precautions. Plant when the sky is overcast or during the early evening when it is cooler, then water deeply. Also, keep the plant well watered until it is established. You may need to water daily if it is hot enough or every other day. This deep root watering tool from Amazon is really useful for helping trees and shrubs to establish and develop a strong, deep root system.

However, avoid fertilizing in the heat of summer. Adding 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) of mulch will keep the roots cool and moist. Place the mulch at least 4 inches from the base of the shrub.

Fast-Growing Shrubs for Cooling Shade

Whether you design a private reading nook surrounded by shrubs or a mixed border along a hot, western exposure, here are fast-growing shrubs that will put you in the cooling zone. Be sure to read the plant tags and choose shrubs suitable for your USDA hardiness zone.

1. Viburnum

(Image credit: Suyun Zhang / Getty Images)

Viburnums (Viburnum spp.) include deciduous and evergreen shrubs in varying heights that include some North American natives. They feature flowers, mostly white, as well as colorful fall leaves. Some varieties also produce fruit in the fall, which is relished by birds. Viburnums grow 1 to 2 feet (0.3 to 0.6 m) a year. Depending on the variety, viburnums prefer full sun to light shade and well-draining soil. Add organic matter to the soil when planting to increase fertility and drainage.

Good ones to try include Arrowwood (V. dentatum), which grows 6 to 12 feet tall and wide (1.8 to 3.7 m) in USDA zones 3 to 8, and produces blue-black fruit. American cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus var. americanum) grows 5 to 8 feet in zones 2 to 7, and produces red fruit in late summer. Leatherleaf viburnum (V. rhytidophyllum) is evergreen to semi-evergreen with white flowers in spring and red to black berries in fall. It grows 10 feet (3 m) tall and wide in zones 5 to 8.

Proven Winners Colorchoice 5" White Blue Muffin Arrowwood Viburnum

Bailey Compact American Cranberrybush

Leatherleaf Viburnum

2. Ninebark

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) is a tough, drought-tolerant Eastern North American native shrub that grows up to 8 feet (2.4 m) tall in zones 2 to 8. It is known for its exfoliating bark, which shows in winter after the leaves drop.

Several cultivars are offered with foliage colors such as purple, yellow, chartreuse, and bicolor. ‘Diabolo’ ninebark features purple foliage and creamy white flowers in summer. ‘Snowfall’ sports dark green foliage and white or pink flowers.

Ninebark does well in slightly acidic, well-drained soil in full to part sun. It tolerates multiple soil conditions, including clay.

Diabolo Ninebark

3. Panicle Hydrangea

(Image credit: Natali22206 / Shutterstock)

Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) bloom from midsummer to fall on new growth, so you don’t have to worry about late freezes zapping the flower buds. Their strong stems support conical-shaped flower clusters, typically white, changing to pink or red.

Panicle hydrangeas tolerate more sun than other types of hydrangeas but still prefer morning sun and afternoon shade in well-draining soil in zones 3 to 8.

Their height depends on the cultivar, but to provide more shade, choose the taller varieties like ‘Quick Fire,’ ‘Pinky Winky,’ ‘Limelight,’ ‘Vanilla Strawberry,’ and ‘Fire Light,’ which grow to 8 feet (2.4 m) tall and wide. ‘Phantom’ hydrangea features huge white flower heads and quickly grows up to 10 feet (3 m) tall and wide.

First Editions Plants Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea

Proven Winners Colorchoice 5" 'Limelight' Panicle Hydrangea

Green Promise Farms Proven Winners Quick Fire Fab Hydrangea

4. Rose of Sharon

(Image credit: ffaber53 / Getty Images)

Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) grows quickly into a vase shape from 8 to 12 feet tall (2.4 to 3.7 m). The hibiscus-like flowers bloom non-stop from summer to fall and attract pollinators. Flower colors in pink, red, blue, white, purple, violet, and bicolor are available in single and double types.

Older varieties tend to reseed easily, but many new cultivars are sterile, eliminating that problem. Look for ‘Diana,’ ‘Aphrodite,’ ‘Azurri Blue Satin,’ ‘Orchid Satin,’ ‘Helene,’ and the ‘Sugar Tip’ series.

Rose of Sharon prefers full sun and tolerates heat, humidity, and drought in zones 5 to 8.

New Life Nursery & Garden Aphrodite Rose of Sharon

Proven Winners Azurri Blue Satin Rose of Sharon

Sugar Tip Rose of Sharon

5. Dappled Willow

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Dappled willow (Salix integra 'Hakuro-Nishiki') trees are coveted for their pretty variegated foliage that flows like a fountain. Their multicolored leaves are a striking pink, white, and apple green. Hardy in zones 4 to 10, they grow almost anywhere.

Dappled willow prefers a moist, fertile soil in full to part sun. It grows 8 to 10 feet (2.4 to 3 m) tall and wide. Pruning the foliage a couple of times a season brings a flush of new foliage. Catkins produced in spring persist into fall.

Japanese Willow – Salix 'Hakuro Nishiki'

6. Crape Myrtle

(Image credit: Little Dinosaur / Getty Images)

Fast-growing crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) trees can reach their height in one season! The heat-loving shrub blooms from midsummer to fall in showy shades of red, pink, white, lavender, and purple ruffled flowers. When autumn arrives, leaves change to yellow, orange, or red.

Crepe myrtle grows from 6 to 30 feet (1.8 to 9 m) tall depending on the variety, in zones 6 to 9. If the top growth dies back during an extreme winter, it will grow back from the roots. Exfoliating bark adds winter interest.

First Editions Plum Magic Crape Myrtle

Adding fast-growing shrubs to your landscape will soften the edges, bring soothing green colors, and actually reduce the ambient temperature through leaf transpiration, especially if the shrubs are grouped together.

One indeterminate cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) in decent soil can hand over a couple of pounds (1kg) a week once it hits full stride, and two plants will bury a small family. The crop sets its own deadline, too. A cherry tomato goes from perfect to split overnight when a storm follows a run of hot, rainless days.

Most advice about growing cherry tomatoes ends at the harvest. The real work starts there. The plant has no interest in whether the kitchen has caught up, so the response has to move in two directions at once – what is already picked, and what the vine does from here.

Eight Moves for a Runaway Harvest

A few of the moves take an afternoon, and others take five minutes with a pair of snips like these from Amazon. Start with whichever side is more important that week.

1. Pick at the First Blush of Color

(Image credit: AwakenedEye / Getty Images)

Tomato cracking is a plumbing problem, not a disease. The fruit pulls water in faster than its skin can stretch, so one heavy rain on the back of a dry spell splits half a crop overnight. Picking earlier sidesteps that. It works because a cherry tomato seals itself off from the vine the moment real color appears, and what happens after that happens without the plant. Then you can turn green tomatoes red by just leaving them out on the counter. If your cherry tomatoes are producing heavily, walk the rows every other morning rather than holding out for full color. If any slip past you, cracked tomatoes are perfectly fine to eat.

2. Keep Them Out of the Fridge

(Image credit: Catherine Lane / Getty Images)

Refrigeration costs more than it saves. Somewhere below 55F (13C) the aroma compounds start breaking down and the texture goes mealy, which accounts for most of what is wrong with a supermarket tomato. A counter does better. Ripe ones keep several days in a single layer, stem scars down, somewhere out of direct sun. Green fruit picked ahead of a storm colors up in a paper bag with a banana tucked in for ethylene – a gas naturally emitted by bananas that speeds up ripening. Anything that doesn't turn red pickles beautifully.

3. Freeze them Whole on a Sheet Pan

(Image credit: Ruslan Khismatov / Getty Images)

Freezing tomatoes whole is the easiest way to go: no blanching, no peeling. Wash and dry a batch, then spread it in one layer across a sheet pan from Amazon. Freeze them solid before bagging so they stay loose rather than welding into a brick. The skins slip off under a warm tap later. Straight from frozen, they collapse into sauce quicker than they can fresh.

4. Roast them on a Tray

(Image credit: Christopher Villano / Getty Images)

Soft ones and anything that sat a day too long belong here. Halve them and toss with olive oil and salt, then hold a low oven around 300F (150C) until they slump and go jammy at the edges – a couple of hours, unhurried. A full tray reduces to about two cups as the moisture leaves and the sugars pull together, and what comes out is far darker than what went in. Freeze it flat in portions – it thaws into sauce, or lands on bread as is.

5. Dry the Smallest Ones

(Image credit: 3sbworld / Getty Images)

Drying tomatoes is a great choice for the littlest specimens. Less moisture inside means less time on the trays, and they finish evenly instead of toughening outside while the middle stays damp. Halve them cut sides up and run a food dehydrator from Amazon at about 135F (57C) until they feel like leather rather than brittle chips. An oven set as low as it goes will manage it, at the cost of the kitchen for most of a day. Jars come next, shaken daily for a week; water beads on the glass mean another round of drying.

6. Save Seeds from the Best Plant

(Image credit: HMVart / Getty Images)

Only open-pollinated plants are worth saving from – hybrid seed comes back as something nobody planned. To save tomato seeds, squeeze the pulp of a few good ones into a jar with a splash of water, then leave it alone. A pale film forms across the top within a couple of days. That film is doing the work: the ferment strips off the gel coat that blocks germination and knocks back several seedborne diseases. Rinse, then dry the seed flat on a plate. Kept cool and dark, they will still come up even several years later.

7. Top the Vine

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Indeterminate types climb until frost stops them, adding flowers that have no chance of finishing. Pruning tomatoes by cutting the growing tip roughly a month ahead of the average first frost redirects what remains into what is already on the vine, and it opens the canopy in the bargain. Determinate plants set their whole crop at once and need none of this. Thin the lowest leaves while the snips are out, since airflow near the soil tends to be poor by late summer.

8. Up the Potassium

(Image credit: Zbynek Pospisil / Getty Images)

Nitrogen at this stage buys foliage. Fertilize your tomatoes with a blend where potassium leads, such as Tomato-tone from Home Depot at 3-4-6, supports fruit quality instead of another flush of leaves. Water counts for just as much. Deep and regular beats a splash whenever someone remembers. Uneven moisture is behind the splitting, and behind most of the blossom end rot that gets blamed on soil calcium. A harvest like this is a good problem. Keep the water steady and the plant will go on handing fruit over right up to frost.

Cherry Tomato Essentials

Cosori Food Dehydrator

Espoma Organic Tomato-Tone 3-4-6

9 X 13-Inch Baking Sheet

The last few weeks, I’ve been loving seeing all the bees and butterflies doing their rounds and collecting supplies from all the salvia, helenium and flowering oregano currently bobbling in clouds around the backyard. But as early bloomers start to fade and gaps start appearing in beds, my friendly pollinators face the dreaded nectar gap. So I’m turning my attention to another vibrant summer stalwart that I know will bring on a flurry of late summer blooms, and that’s the aster.

There are two word-related things I love about growing asters. First, in floriography (the language of flowers), asters represent patience, which links up nicely with their late summer reputation as superheroes of the second wind. Another lovely association is that the name “aster” comes from the Greek for “star” (astro) and a goddess who wept star dust on the earth, prompting a trail of purple-blue blooms to bloom. The luminescent lavender-blue petals and teensy star-like buds, typical of varieties like Fikart’s Aster and Peachie’s Pick Stokes Aster from Plant Addicts, certainly make me think of summer stars twinkling in borders and pots.

Asters make generous flowering additions if planted now, with an astonishing capacity for blooms that go on for weeks and weeks. This is no fleeting summer fling. Those starry pastel and bubblegum tones add instant, lush daisy dynamics that can take you all the way through fall. And because they are perennials, they won’t just be fuelling migrating monarchs and other late summer pollinators this year: they’ll also be back next year for another star-studded performance. Here’s how easy it is to transform your sleepy midsummer gaps into a symphony of stars.

Why Plant Asters Now?

Now is the perfect time to plant asters of all hues. If you are after the king of the purples, go for Grape Crush New England Aster from Nature Hills. Or if you’re after a candy pink shade with more of a frilly look, you can get Proven Winners Henry III Pink Asters from Plant Addicts. From wild aromatic asters to classic New England showstoppers, planting in August gives instant gratification, while tapping into optimal soil conditions to help roots establish in record time.

Planting asters in August solves one of the trickiest gardening puzzles: deciding where you have room. Early flowering perennials have peaked, making bare patches and tired borders painfully obvious. You can easily slot asters where their color will do the most good. Bye-bye to early summer casualties, scrappy gaps, and faded bedside glamor – hello, jewel pinks, juicy purples, and twinkly blues!

(Image credit: Sanddebeautheil / Getty Images)

The soil should be pleasantly warm, so aster starts and young plants can root and establish at lightning speed. If you’re not sure and want to check, use a thermometer like the Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Thermometer from Amazon. Plus, midsummer sun angles and changing shadow patterns are fully visible now. Planting now lets you position your asters in spots that catch every last drop of golden afternoon light.

Just work a sprinkling of Espoma Organic Chicken Granular Manure from Walmart into the soil at planting time for a gentle, slow-release of nutrients to keep blooms powering on for longer. Planting asters now means you provide a critical lifeline for migrating monarchs and native bees. From the sky-blue spray of a Frikart's aster to the purpliest of all purples (like Purple Dome), now is the time to get them in the ground for the ultimate summer refresh. Here's how to do it right for beds and containers…

(Image credit: Peter Photos / 500px / Getty Images)Grab Your Asters

Late summer is when asters take center stage, and these fast-flowering options will guarantee you aren’t staring at gaps for long. From compact gems that fit effortlessly into patio pots to back-of-border color-blockers, there’s an aster for every space. This trio of dreamy pastels, neon bubblegums, and royal purple perennials will add statement color that lasts for months. They can all be planted in August for blooms to first frost.

Dazzling Summer Fillers

Container Friendly

Burpee New England Aster Purple Dome Aster Plant

The ultimate dwarf New England aster! This pretty clumper naturally grows into a neat 18-inch (45 cm) dome that quickly fills with purple semi-double flowers. Lovely at the front of the border, in small spaces, or in late-summer containers for maximum purple power without having to stake any tall stems.

Compact Showstopper

Plant Addicts Carmine Red Fall Aster Plant

Part of the modern Kickin Series, this aster has a bushy habit that doesn't become exposed at the bottom. It explodes with tight clusters of rich raspberry blooms on sturdy stems. Reaching 2-3 ft (60-90 cm), this zingy pink bloomer is best for mid-border sweeps, mass plantings, and plug-and-play August yard upgrades.

Fringe Benefits

Green Promise Farms Proven Winners Totally Stoked Riptide Stokes Aster

Stokes asters produce 3-inch (8 cm) fringed flowers a bit like cornflowers. Thriving in heat, the low rosette stays compact while sending up massive purple blooms. At 12-18 inches (30-45 cm), it’s perfect for sunny borders, cut flower beds, and low-maintenance pots to attract late-season pollinators.

Planting in Summer Beds and Borders

(Image credit: ImageBROKER Serhii Zarev / Getty Images)

Plugging asters into tired-looking August borders is simple, but positioning depends on the eventual height and shape of your variety. Taller New England aster classics like neon pink Alma Potschke are perfect for backs of borders. Meanwhile, mounding growers like bubblegum Kickin Carmine Red from Plant Addicts easily fill mid-border gaps without needing stakes. While asters are great gap fillers, just make sure they will have good air flow, which is key to keeping these plants happy and disease-free.

(Image credit: Albert Fertl / Getty Images)

Dig a wide hole and add a little phosphorus-rich feed like Down To Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s to kickstart root growth and flower production. Once your plant is in position, backfill the hole, firm the soil gently around the base, and water deeply to eliminate air pockets. Add a couple of inches (5 cm) of an organic mulch like leaf mold or some Back to the Roots Organic Premium Shredded Bark Mulch from Amazon. This keeps ground temperatures cool, locks in moisture, and prevents fungal spores from splashing onto lower leaves during heavy rain.

Asters prefer at least six hours of sun daily, though in scorching yards, a touch of dappled afternoon shade helps pastel petals retain their vibrancy for longer. As flowers begin to open, routine maintenance takes just minutes a week. Just deadhead faded flower heads above a fresh leaf joint or lateral bud. This will pretty much guarantee your asters keep the bloom frenzy going well into fall. Lucky you!

Planting in Containers

(Image credit: Sophie McAula / Alamy)

By midsummer, patio pots may also be looking tired. Here, asters also make the ultimate late-summer container rescue plants. Compact cushion varieties like Wood’s Purple or Wood’s Pink are lovely in pots and bring rich, saturated color to doorsteps, balconies, and sun-drenched patios. Reaching just 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) tall, they quickly fill out in cheerful violet and bubblegum color without ever flopping or needing stakes. You can get Hirt’s Gardens’ Wood’s Pink Asters from Walmart as live plants for a little extra protection against mildew and extra rust resistance.

(Image credit: Kynny / Getty Images)

Because container roots can dry out fast in afternoon heat, plant your asters into a moisture-retaining blend like Espoma Organic Potting Mix, available from The Home Depot. This is packed with beneficial mycorrhizae to help roots anchor fast. To power non-stop flower production deep into October, it’s also a good idea to sprinkle in a little of your bone meal. Water daily in extended heat to keep plants lush and active. However, make sure you are watering directly at the soil line to keep foliage clean.

Asters have a reputation for attracting powdery mildew, which could be more of an issue in containers. However, there are ways around this. Modern dwarf asters and disease-resistant types like the Wood’s series are bred to fight off powdery mildew. But if you’re worried about humidity or crowded containers, keep a bottle of Bonide Copper Fungicide Spray from Amazon on hand. This help protect against powdery mildew and leaf spot. Pair your potted asters with trailing golden foliage or dark coral bells, and your porch containers will be buzzing with late-season pollinators right through to pumpkin season.

Great Planting Partners

(Image credit: Photos by RA Kearton / Getty Images)

Layering rich hues, tonal contrasts, and varied heights with the right plant partners will help you showcase your asters to full effect for the months ahead (and will also help keep pollinators happy for even longer). August is prime time for interplanting asters alongside hardy summer perennials that will stay vibrant right up to the first freeze. By choosing companions that share a fondness for full sun and well-drained soil, you ensure your midsummer refresh looks lush and established from day one.

Pair with indestructible rudbeckia or the dazzling spires of goldenrod (solidago) for savvy color contrasting. The rich gold and purple combination is one of nature’s favorite high-contrast color duos, practically vibrating with life in late-afternoon sunlight. Grow fellow native ‘Goldenrod’ by American Beauties from Plant Addicts. For textural variety, scatter frothy white yarrow (achillea) through the middle of the border, or a zingy color contrast with Yarrow Strawberry Seduction from Nature Hills. Yarrow's flat-bloom cluster clumps help give beneficial insects a sweet landing pad.

Fellow native purple coneflower (echinacea) introduces a strong silhouette. Even as their petals fade, their spiky seed cones provide texture and bronze tones for your starry aster clusters. Buy Clovers Garden Purple Coneflower Plants from Amazon. Nestle with some feathery ornamental grass like Purple Fountain Grass from Fast Growing Trees to offset brighter tones with graceful texture and movement. For patio displays and small-space vessels, add a splash of weeping golden creeping Jenny to cascade over container rims, and dwarf blue salvia for rich color spikes.

Shop Aster Essentials

(Image credit: ESOlex / Getty Images)

Asters are resilient once settled, but giving your starts a little extra TLC when planting in August makes all the difference. Late-summer planting generally means warm ground and high sun, so your main focus is accelerating root establishment, protecting against heat shock, and encouraging non-stop flower fabulousness through to fall frosts. Treating your new plants to high-quality organic amendments, bloom-boosting feeds, and protective mulches will keep those daisy-like stars exploding with color right up until the first winter freeze.

Bloom Care Trio

Root Booster

Rosy Soil Rosy Soil Biochar Booster Soil Amendment

This biochar and compost blend creates a bespoke permanent, porous environment that holds water and vital nutrients at the root level. Packed with beneficial mycorrhizal fungi and worm castings, it encourages rapid root growth in newly set August asters, ensuring your nursery starts skip the transplant shock and settle instantly into warm late-summer soil.

Bloom Builder

Down To Earth All Natural Fertilizers Down to Earth All Natural Fertilizers Fish Bone Meal

If you want a carpet of pink, purple, and magenta blossoms from September through to November, this marine-based fertilizer is a boon. Naturally rich in phosphorus and calcium, it slowly releases the nutrients asters crave to build sturdy, self-supporting stems and vivid, color-drenched blooms.

Heat Shield

GS Plant Foods GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp Extract

For plants enduring late-summer heatwaves, liquid seaweed is a wonderful pick-me-up. Soaking your newly planted asters with this kelp blend delivers vital trace minerals and enzymes directly to the roots. This helps with heat resilience, strengthening cell walls, and keeping foliage lush through dry August spells.

(Image credit: Pakin Songmor / Getty Images)

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!