Organic Gardening News

Early August borders have a look about them, and something always gives out by midsummer. Early perennials have finished, and in some areas, there are bare patches where something failed to emerge. A corner that looked full and vibrant a few weeks ago is now probably looking a little sorry for itself, especially if you’ve had any kind of sweltering heat. But those gaps can still be filled, and the plants that manage it fastest will bloom right through until the first frost.

Not only is it OK to put these plants in the ground in August, but the conditions are at their best in many cases, so they will establish (and bloom) much faster. Warm soil is a big part of the reason. Roots move quickly in soil that’s been warming since May. The easiest flowers to grow now are those that bask in heat rather than sulk in it. Cool-season bedding won’t cope. What works are key fast gap fillers that will bloom within weeks, for a magnificent second act that will last all through fall.

To pull off this glorious late-season summer flush, it's often best to skip the seed packets. Instead, use robust nursery starts or established plugs where possible. Placing established root systems into sun-warmed earth delivers that critical instant impact. Just make sure you do go for these quick-flourishing dynamos for color-soaked beds and borders to first frosts.

Fast Flowers to Fill the August Gap

Late transplants have a shorter runway than spring options, so the planting hole matters more. Loosen the soil wider than the root ball rather than deeper, as roots spread sideways first. You also need to skip the high-nitrogen feeds, which only encourage leaves at a point in the season when flowers are the point. That said, because these are August plantings, it’s smart to add a splash of Miracle-Gro Quick Start Transplant Solution, available from Amazon. This helps to settle the soil around the roots, prevents transplant shock, and pushes early root growth. Watering the plant in its pot an hour before it goes in the ground helps, too.

(Image credit: Martin Wahlborg. Getty Images)

Full sun is what these bloomers love, though a little afternoon shade will still work. In terms of soil, drainage counts far more than richness. A gap that stays soggy after rain needs amending before anything goes in, or the roots will sit and rot instead of running.

If your soil feels packed down or worn out, give it a little aged compost, plus some perlite or coarse sand. Water deeply, and less often. Little sprinkles that only wet the top inch (2.5cm) train roots to stay shallow. If you haven’t got one, a soaker hose like the STYDDI Soaker Hose, available from Walmart, is a smart investment for late summer hydration. Do this, and these late summer bloomers will dazzle you for weeks.

1. Zinnias

(Image credit: Baldomir / Getty Images)

Zinnias (Zinnia elegans) germinate in warm earth faster than almost anything else, and direct-sowing from seed is still an option in the south. But northern and mid-country gardens will do best buying pre-grown nursery starts. Once established, zinnias take care of the show with very little fuss. All you need to do is keep deadheading fading blooms twice a week. This tells the plant to send up repeated blooms well into fall. Zinnias are starting to sell out in some places, but you can grab Meadow Decor California Zinnias from Walmart as pre-started plants for faster color.

Powdery mildew shows up on crowded plants late in the season, so leave room between plants and water strictly at the base. You can reduce the risk of mildew with a preventative spray like Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart. That way, you can keep your zinnia festival of color popping well into fall.

Meadow Decor California Zinnia Plants

2. Rudbeckias

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

This is the one that comes back! Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) behaves as a short-lived perennial or a resilient biennial through much of the country. If you fancy a rush of yellow color that establishes super-fast and can also thrive in a large, late summer planter, Glitters LIke Gold Rudbeckia Plants from Nature Hills is a volume queen with brilliant structure. If you can find it, Goldsturm is another glorious fast bloomer for dominating shape and structure to rejuvenate collapsing borders.

To ensure these tough native relatives survive upcoming winter freezes, spread a two-inch (5cm) layer of Back to the Roots Organic Hardwood Bark Mulch from Amazon around the base after watering. This organic mulch insulates roots in erratic late-summer weather and seals in moisture. Roots need to settle before the ground cools, so keep watering after the flowers stop coming. Goldfinches will love stripping the seed heads in winter, and these golden flurries keep coming into October in a mild fall.

Nature Hills Nursery Glitters Like Gold Black-Eyed Susan

3. Lantana

(Image credit: Mauritius Images GmbH / Alamy)

Heat is not a problem for lantana (L. camara). It flowers straight through the brutal heat of late summer that can flatten other bedding blooms. Add a nursery plant in August and it will keep going relentlessly until a hard freeze shuts it down. Check local guidance, though. The species has escaped cultivation across parts of the southeast and Gulf Coast, so choose non-invasive cultivars where restricted. For a frothy explosion of hot pink, orange and gold, you can pick up LA Tropic Irene Lantana from Walmart as a live plant bundle for a reasonable price.

Where it behaves, butterflies will work their fiery flower clusters all day long. This bloomer shrugs off drought once rooted, which matters when regular hand-watering tends to slip. Mounding varieties fill wide, empty gaps in days, smothering weeds under dense, dark-green foliage. If you are worried about invasive tendencies, try growing Bandana or Landmark Series Lantana in a large container or planter. They’ll add seasonal dazzle to patios with continuous, multi-colored blooms for weeks.

LA Tropic Irene Lantana Camara Plants

4. Mexican Sunflower

(Image credit: Fotografiko Eugen / Shutterstock)

Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia) puts on serious size in a hurry. A plant tucked into a gap now will be jostling against its neighbors by September. So give this one a decent space to fill, and it won’t let you down. With its glowing orange flowers, it is sure to draw in monarch butterflies during their fall migration. If you live in zones 9-11, you can still plant seeds if you hurry. Sow Right Seeds’ Mexican Sunflowers from Amazon will deliver a juicy shot of orange in warmer zones. For anywhere further north, buy this plant as an established start and set it deep.

Staking is worth considering in a windy spot, since tithonia’s hollow stems can snap in rougher weather. Adding some stakes is a smart move to protect their late-season height in rear-border gaps. Insert super-budget-friendly Lowe’s Bamboo Plant Supports alongside the main stems to protect them against late summer storms.

Sow Right Seeds Sow Right Seeds Mexican Sunflower

5. Mealycup Sage

(Image credit: Magicflute002 / Getty Images)

Blue is scarce in a late-summer border, which is reason enough to splash out on some dazzling mealycup sage (Salvia farinacea). This native’s spikes of intense color make a highly pleasing and intentional contrast against the oranges and yellows that predominate at this time of year. Salvia plants set out in August will flower within a couple of weeks and continue through the first light frosts. If you’re looking for a blast of lush blue that will establish quickly, DMOH Blue Salvia Live Plants from Amazon add hyper-rich intensity to displays.

Popular blue flowering choices include ‘Victoria Blue’ (pictured), which seem to glow in late summer borders. Bumblebees favor these salvia varieties over pretty much everything. This gap-filler handles dry spells once settled, so it’s fine if you forget the occasional watering. In zones 8 and warmer, it often returns the following year.

DMOH Blue Salvia Sage Live Plants

6. Cosmos

(Image credit: Lam Chung Yan / Getty Images)

For a reliable flurry of dainty petals, often with the most intense pinks found in nature, cosmos (C. bipinnatus) is a champ in midsummer gaps. As a bonus, they require very little in the way of planting care. Plants given too much fertility run to heavy foliage and quit flowering, so varieties like Sonata are best in sandy, coarse spots. For a major talking point that will also work well in containers, try the sultry Cosmos Chocamocha by Sacred Roots Nursery from Walmart as pre-grown plants.

Bees and hoverflies work them constantly, which is part of the appeal this late in the year. Pollinators are still out in force long after the early-season buffet has closed. To keep these delicate, multi-branching plants producing continuous daisy-like blooms without pushing excess leaves, feed them a little liquid seaweed supplement every fortnight. Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon delivers rich organic trace minerals for quick, continuous bud formation.

Sacred Roots Nursery Cosmos Chocamocha Live Starter Plant

7. Calibrachoa (Million Bells)

(Image credit: Patstock / Getty Images)

Not every gap is in the ground. Calibrachoa (Million Bells) fill midsummer holes that are opening up in containers and window boxes, when spring plantings have gone leggy and tired. They flower continuously without deadheading, which is unusual for such heavy bloomers. They are perfect for giving a refresh to tired porch pots, patio planters, and hanging baskets. For lush amber and purple flower heads, try Proven Winners Superbells Double Vintage Coral Calibrachoa from Plant Addicts.

Feeding matters more with container blooms, which tend to exhaust soil nutrients faster. Espoma Organic Bloom Concentrate, available from Amazon, is perfect for nurturing super blooms and keeping them coming well into the cooler season. Applied once a week, this feeding corrects any pale foliage fast, supplying the exact nutrient ratio needed to keep your bells cascading until late autumn.

Proven Winners Superbells® Double Vintage Coral™ Calibrachoa

8. Nasturtiums

(Image credit: Danita Delimont Creative / Alamy)

If you’re looking for a generous fast-gap filler that keeps local pests in hand and also doubles up as a spicy salad garnish, this late summer treat can fire on all cylinders. Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) ask for almost nothing once in place. Poor ground actually suits them, since fertile beds push lush leaves at the expense of flowers. And planted near high-value crops, they pull aphids away and onto their own leaves. You can get lush dazzling Whirly Bird Mix Nasturtium Plants from Walmart for zingy brights and generous foliage that will cloak gaps in weeks and bloom on repeat.

Tucking this jewel into front-of-border gaps creates a rapid carpet of circular foliage that fills gaps almost as soon as planted. Should your nasturtiums attract a heavy colony of aphids while acting as a trap plant, you can manage the infestation gently using a gentle insecticide or horticultural soap. Keeping it organic means it won’t cause issues for any edible harvests or visiting pollinators.

FlowersBulbs Whirly Bird Mix Live Plants

A bed replanted with the right choices this month can often look better and brighter than those earlier flowers. Frost will eventually end the party, of course, but these jazzy bloomers set you up beautifully for that late-season spectacular. Personally, I think there is something wonderful to a season that goes out with fireworks, rather than trailing off quietly. So, grab a few healthy nursery starts, give them a deep drink, and get them in the ground right now.

(Image credit: TC397 / Getty Images)

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• TIME: 10 minutes
• RATING: Easy
• REWARD: Helps lavender survive winter

There’s an old gardening memory trick that says you should prune 8 inches from lavender plants on the eighth day of the eighth month. While there’s no need to stick exactly to this rule, there’s an awful lot of growing sense stored in those three digits. By August 8th, the flowers of most lavender varieties have faded, but the soil is still plenty warm enough to encourage new growth. And by trimming those old flower spikes, along with an inch or so of the foliage below, you’ll trigger the plant to grow a dense covering of new leaves. So if you're growing lavender in your garden, this is a quick and easy weekend win.

By following the 8-8-8 rule, there’s enough time for the fresh growth to harden before temperatures plummet, and this cloak of close-knit evergreen leaves will effectively insulate the plant through winter. And that means it’ll be in better shape next year, ready for another summer of abundant blooms..

The other benefit to trimming lavender in early August is keeping the plant compact and bushy, for a denser display of flowers next year. Pruning lavender plants now means you can shape them into a neat silver-leaved dome that will look good all through fall, winter and spring. A late summer trim makes it super-simple to avoid the biggest lavender pruning mistake of all, too: cutting into old wood, from which new stems probably won’t grow back.

Oh yes, and there’s an additional treat for you as well – but we’ll get to that!

How to Prune Lavender in August1. Pick the Perfect Time

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

There's no need be exact about dates or measurements when you're deciding when to prune lavender. While the 888 lavender rule is a handy reminder, lavender should be trimmed once its flower spikes have faded and started to dry out, and the exact timing will differ between varieties and growing zones. But it's very likely to be right now.

2. Find Fresh Growth

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Don’t stick to trimming off exactly 8 inches either. While that’s generally the right ballpark for most lavender types, you should aim to prune the faded flower stalk with around an inch of foliage. This is going to differ between a young and a mature plant, too, so use your judgement: you want to remove some of this year’s foliage but you don’t want to cut into the older, woodier stems below, which may not resprout.

Take a closer look at your plant and you'll probably spot a layer of fresh new silvery leaves against the greener foliage, above the brown woody stems. This is the perfect place to make your cuts as the stems here are lush, healthy, and ready to regrow.

3. Cut off Faded Flower Stalks

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Use a sharp pair of bypass pruning shears, such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruners from Walmart, and if you haven’t sharpened your pruners in a while, do take a moment to before you begin. Clean cuts made with sharp blades heal much faster, so your plant can get on with the important business of growing fresh foliage, and it’s a two-minute task with a sharpening tool such as this $10 blade sharpener from Amazon.

Hold a bunch of stems in one hand and cut through the centre of this layer of fresh foliage with your pruners.

4. Shape the Plant

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Once you’ve removed all the flower stalks, take a moment to consider the shape of your plant. If it’s a border plant, you may want to encourage it into a dome shape; if you’re growing a low lavender hedge, then you might want the sides to be straighter. I’m shaping this lavender plant to drape over the side of this raised bed so soften this patio corner, so I'm leaving the stems on one side slightly longer than those on the top.

Just be aware that if you cut into the woody part of the stems, they may not reshoot – but you can use that to your advantage, if you want the plant to ‘travel’ in a particular direction. The color difference between the older, brown woody stems at the plant base and the newer, green soft stems higher up is very clear at this time of the year, so it’s easy to tell.

5. Water to Aid Recovery

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Pruning is a stressful event for any plant, so give your lavender a good water once you’re finished to help it recover quickly, and get growing again.

And that’s it, your weekend win is done! Thanks to its quick trim, your plant will now grow a snug coat of evergreen foliage that'll keep it cosy all through winter. And there’s a quick trick that will keep you happy in the cold season, too.

Before you make your pruning cuts, tie a ribbon tightly around a handful of stems, then trim as before.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

You'll be left with a bunch of dried lavender to hang up indoors and scent your home. Deciding whether or not to strip the foliage from the stems will change the lavender's scent. The leaves typically have a slightly sharper, more resinous scent, adding depth and strength to the fragrance, which would be beneficial if you wanted to hang your posy in a bathroom, perhaps. In a bedroom, however, stripping the foliage so you enjoy just the sweeter fragrance of the flowers would give a softer, more calming aroma.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Either way, the scent will remind you of the plethora of fragranced flowers you can look forward to next summer – and boy will you get plenty, thanks to your timely August weekend win. If you want to give your plant some more TLC, then treating lavender to a gravel mulch is next on my to-do list.

Before and After

I always find it really useful to see a before and after of gardening jobs, so I know exactly what I'm aiming to achieve. Here's what my lavender plant looked like before its August prune:

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Here's what my lavender plant looked like after its August prune.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)New Lavender Varieties That Are Better Than Ever

Best for Resilience

Phenomenal Lavender

Lavandula x intermedia 'Phenomenal’ is a newer hybrid that's the toughest lavender out there, coping with cold winters and heatwave summers. Zones 5-9.

Best for Flowers

Sensational! Lavender

Lavandula x intermedia Sensational! reblooms with plump flowers from May to September and tolerates heat and humidity far better than most. Zones 5-9.

Best for a change

Exceptional Lavender

Lavandula x intermedia Exceptional has white flowers that almost glow against its narrow silvery foliage, and smells just as good as its purple cousins. Zones 5-9.

Gardening is usually associated with escape: a quiet corner of calm, a chance to slow down, or a way to create something beautiful in an increasingly hectic world. But in Netflix's survival thriller The Last House, growing things takes on a far more urgent meaning.

When a family of four wakes to find themselves mysteriously sealed inside their home, everyday comforts quickly become necessities. And, when food supplies begin to dwindle and panic sets in, survival becomes the priority – which means that cultivating plants becomes less about aesthetics and more about resilience and resistance.

For Greta Lee, who stars in the film, that idea feels surprisingly close to home. Gardening isn't simply something she explored for The Last House; it's already an important part of her own life, both personally and with her children.

Gardening is Key To Survival in Netflix's The Last House

The film taps into something increasingly familiar: the idea that gardens are not just places of beauty, but sources of nourishment, patience, and hope (there's a reason preppers and their survival gardens are always such a beacon of planting inspiration on Reddit). At their most fundamental, they remind us that life continues even when circumstances become uncertain.

When I ask Greta what she'd grow if she were creating her own survival garden, her answer is refreshingly practical. "Lemon, kale, and potatoes," she tells me. And, while it's a simple list, it's one that says plenty. Reliable crops, nutritional staples, and something capable of lifting the spirits? Why, that's exactly what you'd hope for if the world outside suddenly became unpredictable.

Even imagining being trapped inside one house indefinitely, Greta's dream garden isn't pristine or overly designed. Quite the opposite, actually. "Definitely something a little on the wilder side and not so manicured," she says. "Flowering plants that attract bees and birds, maybe a fruit tree, long grasses being blown around in the wind."

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Her reasoning feels particularly poignant given the premise of The Last House. "You would want a view of a garden that feels very alive and has a lot going on, not only because you would be desperate for any means of entertainment, but I think it would give you hope. The world keeps going, things keep growing, even when you feel trapped."

For anyone who's ever found comfort in stepping outside after a difficult day, that sentiment will feel familiar. Gardens offer more than beauty, after all; they offer a sense of continuity, a reminder that change and renewal are always happening around us. And, away from the cameras, Greta says gardening has become one of the ways she reconnects with the natural world after the intensity of filming.

"Gardening is incredibly grounding. And humbling," she says. "The plants are in charge. Nature is in charge. You can't manipulate the weather or tell a seedling it needs to grow faster. You have to be patient, slow down and take things as they come. I find gardening to be really restorative. There's a lot to learn from nature."

(Image credit: Netflix)

Of course, nature isn't always gentle; every gardener knows that behind every beautiful border lies something capable of surprising us, whether it's invasive plants, toxic flowers, or species that seem almost otherworldly. With that in mind, then, I ask Greta whether there's a plant that genuinely unnerves her.

"Not necessarily creeped out," she says. "More like profound respect and fear."

Her answer is sacred datura (Datura wrightii), a striking flowering perennial that grows throughout her neighborhood. "It's used for traditional Indigenous ceremonies, spiritual visions, and historical localized medicines," she explains, "though it is extremely toxic and potentially fatal."

(Image credit: Netflix)

The plant contains powerful tropane alkaloids, and accidental ingestion can cause severe delirium, hallucinations, confusion, blurred vision, coma, and, in some cases, death. It's beautiful, fascinating, and a reminder that nature often commands as much respect as admiration.

Then again, not every memorable garden plant is dangerous; sometimes it's simply unstoppable – a fact Greta underlines when I ask her about the most resilient plant she's ever grown. "Mint! Mint is crazy!" she laughs. "You cannot plant mint willy-nilly. It spreads super aggressively through rhizomes. You must plant with purpose!"

Somewhat unexpectedly, she forges a connection between mint and The Last House. "Mint is like the love that spreads amongst the Delgado family. Strong and unbeatable," she points out. "See what I did there?"

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VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat

The VIVOSUN seedling heat mat is garnering rave reviews on Amazon right now.

Considering the slew of headlines we keep being treated to on a daily basis, it's unsurprising that the idea that gardening can represent resilience is also appearing far beyond The Last House. Indeed, Zach Galifianakis' unexpectedly funny and endlessly curious series This Is A Gardening Show recently showcased our changing relationship with the land, using comedy to deliver a more serious message: “the future is agrarian.”

Together, these stories point towards a broader shift in how we think about growing things. Gardening is no longer being portrayed simply as a peaceful hobby or a way to make outdoor spaces look beautiful. Increasingly, it is being framed as a skill tied to self-sufficiency, connection, and survival.

Yes, there is still joy in growing roses and arranging cut flowers, but there is also a growing recognition that understanding plants, cultivating food, and working with nature may be some of the most valuable skills we can develop. I guess it all goes to show that, if gardening is getting a rebrand, survival might just be its most compelling new look.

Greta Lee's The Last House is now streaming on Netflix.

Moles and voles can be confused because of the similarity of their names, but they aren’t similar animals. Unfortunately, for many gardeners though, they are both pesky little creatures that can create damage in the lawn and landscaping.

Luckily, identifying the animals digging holes and damaging plants is quite easy with these two. Moles are underground insectivores and voles are small rodents who do their work above ground. If you have ever walked through your yard and felt the ground suddenly give way under your foot, that is from a mole. Seeing narrow little tracks carved through your lawn or groundcover indicates voles.

Let’s dig in and see what differentiates moles and voles and what you can do to keep them at bay.

Moles

(Image credit: Natalia Kokhanova / Getty Images)

Moles are insect-eating mammals who burrow underground and can a mess of your lawn. Their tunnels are easy to roll an ankle in and their mole hills make for unsightly lumps of dirt all over the yard.

Moles are 6-8 inches (15.2-20.3 cm) long and have velvety gray fur. Their large front feet have claws that make digging a breeze, and they have very small eyes and ears. They love to eat earthworms, so even if your lawn is free of other bugs, moles can still be present. When the weather is hot, earthworms and other insects go deeper underground and the moles will follow them. This might make you think you have gotten rid of them, but then they pop up again as the weather cools!

There are some humane ways to get rid of moles like creating a trap with a coffee can, but unfortunately, the only foolproof way to fully get rid of them is to kill them. Talk with your local extension office or a local pest control company for help. However, moles don’t usually do any lasting damage to your lawn and they play a vital role in our ecosystem, so maybe a little pile of dirt isn’t so bad, after all.

Voles

(Image credit: Jonas Hanacek / Getty Images)

Voles, on the other hand, can do some minor damage to plants, trees, and turf. Voles are stout, little rodents that resemble mice, though they have much shorter legs and tails. Their bodies are typically 3.5-5 inches (8.9-12.7 cm) long and they like to chew paths through grass and groundcover to make their travel easier.

If you have voles, you will see a 2-inch wide pathway going around the yard. Gnawed trunks on trees and shrubs, and chewed stems and leaves on other plants are also giveaways. You might spot them eating spilled seeds from your bird feeders, too.

Mowing your lawn regularly, edging grass around structures and log piles, and keeping on top of weeding will help to reduce vole populations in your yard. Cleaning up that bird seed under your feeder or using a bird seed catch tray like this one from Amazon will help prevent them from coming around looking for a free snack.

Now that you know which one you are dealing with, you can get to work to make your garden a little less friendly, for pests that it is!

A brown lawn can be a summer bummer, but it’s very common and doesn’t usually mean your grass is dead. Turfgrasses are generally categorized as cool season and warm season depending on when they go dormant. In most cases, brown summer grass is simply dormant cool-season turf that needs a refresh.

Brown grass is not necessarily a reason to panic, especially during the hottest, driest days of summer. Browning up is a survival strategy and there are some simple signs you can check before assuming your grass is dead.

Below I’ll reveal some of the most common reasons for dying grass, signs your grass is dormant rather than dead and ready to bounce back, and tips for getting it green and healthy again by fall.

Dormant or Dead?

Grass naturally goes dormant under certain conditions (in the case of cool-season grasses, heat and drought trigger dormancy) to conserve water and protect the roots and crowns. Dormant grass comes back to life when conditions become more favorable.

Let’s take a look at some clues that can help you determine if your grass is dead or just dormant:

• Hot, dry weather. If you grow cool-season grass, temperatures are soaring, and it hasn’t rained for a while, your brown grass is probably dormant. Dormant grass looks evenly brown rather than patchy.
• Brown patches. Patchiness in your lawn is more likely to be a sign that the brown grass is dead because heat and dryness tend to affect the entire lawn. Smaller areas of brown grass could be dead due to pests, fungal lawn diseases, poor drainage, or animal urination. Pull up a small section of grass to look for grubs or other pests and mushy, soggy roots, signs of a problem deeper than dormancy.
• The pull test. Gently pull on a clump of grass in a brown area. If it resists the pull, the roots are still strong and it’s likely dormant. If the clump comes out very easily, you probably have dead grass.

(Image credit: lingqi xie / Getty Images)Signs Grass Will Bounce Back by Fall

If you’re not sure what’s going on with your lawn, these signs are reasons for hope. These are typical signs your grass is still healthy and will green up again within a few weeks, either before or by fall.

1. The Crown Looks Healthy

The crown is the part of the plant where the roots meet the blades right at the soil level. To inspect the crown, separate the blades in a clump of grass and have a look. Use a garden tool like a trowel to dig into the soil a little if necessary.

A healthy crown is firm and white or light green. If the blades are brown but the crown still looks healthy, you likely have dormant grass that will come back to life. A mushy, brown crown is more concerning.

If you see a healthy crown, you can revive your dormant grass with regular, deep watering. Water the lawn once or twice a week, aiming for about an inch (2.5 cm) of water at a time. This is a more effective method than watering lightly every day.

(Image credit: VanderWolf-Images / Getty Images)2. Deep Watering Leads to New Green Growth

If you suspect your grass is only dormant due to hot and dry conditions, watering deeply should trigger some fresh, healthy growth. A burst of rain can also trigger new growth.

Water the brown grass deeply once or twice and check for growth at the base of plants a week or so later. This is a good sign to carry on with regular watering to revive the turf.

Regular, deep watering should be your focus right now. Hook up an oscillating sprinkler, like this one from the Home Depot, to a hose to give your whole lawn a good drink.

Hold off on mowing the newly growing grass and avoid using any lawn fertilizer, which can scorch stressed roots. Once the new grass is long and lush, you can start mowing your lawn again and do any necessary fertilizer applications.

(Image credit: Getty Images)3. Your Lawn is Uniformly Brown, Not Patchy

Uniform brown coloring across the lawn is actually a good sign. Dormancy is triggered in all grass when conditions turn hot and dry. The only patchiness you might see is related to regional conditions. For instance, grass will stay greener longer in shady areas and ditches, which retain more moisture.

To revive your uniformly brown lawn, you can begin regular, weekly deep watering or you can simply wait for rain. Healthy grass can stay dormant and still recover after three to six weeks.

This is important for areas under water restrictions. Check the weather for upcoming rain and determine if your grass can wait.

4. There's Moisture Below the Surface

Grass can still recover after weeks of dormancy, but there is a limit. During a serious drought, your brown, dormant grass might actually die. If you haven’t been paying attention to the duration of browning, check the soil for moisture with a simple moisture meter, like this one from Amazon.

Another way to check is to choose a brown area of grass and dig down two or three inches (5-7.5 cm). If the soil is dry above but moist down at this depth, there is still hope.

You can revive this grass with deep watering. You can also aerate your lawn in late summer or early fall to make it easier for the soil to hold onto water in the future.

(Image credit: Lightspring / Shutterstock)5. Weeds Are Still Growing

Weeds can be a nuisance in turfgrass, but weeds can also indicate the health of your lawn during drought conditions. If your grass is browning but you still have some weed growth, this is a good sign. Many weeds are more heat-tolerant than grass and will continue to grow, indicating there is some moisture in the soil and your grass will recover.

Watering will revive your lawn at this point, but it will also support weed growth. Resist the urge to start aggressively managing weeds. Any herbicides applied now can damage your stressed turfgrass. Focus on bringing the grass back to life, then address the weeds.

It's a wonder that any plants are still alive in my no-water border, but some are flourishing and flowering – and they’re not the usual drought-tolerant plants everyone shouts about either. Some plants were nonchalant about the lack of water from the get-go, others drooped dramatically to begin with but then quickly got back to business. And yes, a few died. But like some greenfingered episode of Love, Lust or Run, it’s been very surprising which plants ended up in each of these three categories.

My zero-water garden experiment has been on-going for over two years now. It wasn’t planned, and I certainly didn’t have the foresight to know extreme drought resistance would be so useful in this El Niño summer. You see, I usually water the garden early in the morning, before I start work. But this big border runs along the front drive and, while I’m happy to potter around the back garden in my pajamas of a morning, I’d sooner not have the neighbors see my nightwear. And so, despite this being a sun-drenched raised bed running to three railway sleepers high at one end so the soil is incredibly fast-draining, I stopped bothering to water it.

My future-proofing plan was to replace any plants that hit the dust with a drought-tolerant ornamental grass that required zero attention from me apart from a quick shear in early spring. But I haven't yet had to: as the less drought-resistant plants moved on, the more resilient ones expanded into the space left behind. Even so, when this heatwave summer arrived – and I live in a dry part of the country that hasn’t seen a drop of rain for 8 weeks now – surely these tough cookies would give up the ghost, I thought. And just so you know how hot and dry this long bed is, here's how the hardy geraniums – widely considered to be a reliably drought-tolerant plant – are currently faring.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Bad, huh? Now, I’m all for a low-maintenance garden and my plot is full of easy-care plants that practically grow themselves, and my patio is packed with happy-in-a-pot perennials that thrive on neglect. But 10 beauties in this border have surpassed all my expectations, and here are those hero drought-tolerant plants that I haven’t watered for over two years.

1. New York Aster

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

This Michaelmas daisy starts flowering in late August (I took this photo last September) and doesn’t stop till November, and the plant is smothered with hundreds of these beautiful little lavender blooms, even if it hasn't had a drink for weeks. Bees really appreciate this late source of nectar, and I’m grateful for this lovely shot of late-season color.

Powdery mildew can be an issue for asters but Symphyotrichum novi-belgii is particularly resistant. Its only vice is that the stems can be a little straggly. My simple solution is to not bother chopping the previous year’s stems down in spring, so the new growth rises through this woody framework.

Zones 4-8 American Beauties Native Plants Bluebird Smooth Aster

2. Red Valerian

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Centranthus ruber, also known as Jupiter's beard, is a real trooper in my no-water bed, with bright pink flowers appearing in late spring and continuing all the way into fall – and that’s without me ever deadheading. The foliage is a pretty gray-green, too, and lasts through most of winter. This Mediterranean native is thriving in several spots through the border, having self-seeded itself into bare patches where other, less resilient plants have given up the fight. I'm happy for it to spread – it’s assertive rather than aggressive – and the butterflies love its nectar-rich flowers.

Zones 5-9 Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber) Heirloom Seeds

3. English Shrub Rose

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

There are two English shrub roses in this border and both are flourishing despite a complete absence of water, deadheading or proper pruning. This repeat-flowering beauty is Desdemona, an English shrub rose by David Austin Roses, and has peachy buds that open to white chalice-shaped blooms with just a hint of blush pink. It’s right next to the spot I park my car so whenever I arrive home in summer, I’m greeted by its sweet but fresh scent of almond blossom and lemon zest.

Those tiny pink spots are caused by thrips or Botrytis cinerea but this rose gets them every year and I do nothing about it, and it's always fine. Honestly, this beautiful rose deserves far better care!

Zones 5-11 Desdemona Rose in 1 Gallon Pot

4. Lavender Grosso

(Image credit: Getty Images)

I grow lots of different lavender varieties, and all thrive on neglect. But lavender Grosso copes the best, even though it’s in my most neglected border. The purple spikes last from July to September and the mound of silvery foliage looks pretty all through winter. This is the one plant in this border that does get a trim, but only because I regularly raid its stems to make all manner of lavender crafts. This year, I turned the stems into solar-powered lavender lampshades for the patio!

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Zones 5-8 Grosso Lavender

5. Fuchsia Sunray

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

We all have a plant we dislike for no good reason, and fuchsia is mine – though the cause of my aversion is that I have to check how to spell it every time I write its name down which, as a gardening editor, is often. But even I can’t harbor any hatred for this little Fuchsia ‘Sunray’ because it’s an absolute joy. I’ve never watered, pruned or deadheaded it, yet every year it flowers non-stop from June to October, and its variegated red-flushed foliage is just as pretty as its pink and purple blooms.

This darling little fuchsia only grows to two feet high but, as it's planted at the front edge of the raised bed, the flowers dangle over the edge, dancing in the slightest breeze. This variety is only considered borderline hardy, so mulching or fleece protection is recommended to keep it cosy over winter. I’ve paid no heed to this advice and the plant is still alive: go figure.

6. Sedum Pine Forest

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I have plenty of flowering groundcover in this bed so it looks smartish without me ever weeding it, other than occasionally pulling out strings of bindweed that loves the sunny, dry conditions. In particular, I use sedum as a drought-tolerant groundcover because of its firebreak capabilities. And out of all the different varieties, this Sedum reflexum is doing the best in the extreme heat and drought of this summer. It’s ‘Pine Forest’ and the succulent foliage does indeed resemble a miniature pine forest, which brings a lovely texture to parts of my no-water border.

This stonecrop is only a couple of inches tall but it’s spread well though never so much that I’ve had to pull any up. In early summer, it throws up tiny yellow flowers that bees and butterflies love, too.

Zones 3-9 Altman Plants 10" X 20" Sedum Succulent Ground Cover

7. Blackcurrant Sage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Salvia microphylla has wonderfully bright two-lipped flowers, and the delightful fragrance of its evergreen foliage reminds me of drinking blackcurrant cordial as a kid. Though this is sometimes known as baby sage, it grows to 3 feet (and I’m sure would make 4 feet if it ever had a drink) and though it sailed through its first no-water summers, it is getting some scorched blooms in this year’s unrelenting heat.

Though it’s only rated as hardy to 14°C (-10°F), this plant has successfully made it through several winters, and I suspect that’s down to the very well-draining soil.

8. St John's Wort

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This St John's Wort shrub has grown into a foot-high groundcover of fresh green leaves that sporadically flushes with these small but dramatic golden flowers through summer and fall. Traditional wisdom is that Hypericum calycinum, also known as Aaron's beard, needs moist but well-drained soil but honestly, it couldn’t be happier.

Zones 5-9 St. John's Wort Plant in 1 Quart Pot

9. Red Hot Poker

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Kniphofia uvaria is also known as the flame flower and torch lily, and I always look forward to seeing these rockets of color firing up my zero-water border in summer. Red hot pokers are another plant that supposedly need well-draining but moist soil, so I’m surprised these are still flourishing three summers into my self-enforced hosepipe ban. With more water, I’m sure the plants would flower for longer, but they’re doing just fine without.

Zones 6-9 Pyromania Rocket's Red Glare Red Hot Poker

10. Photinia Pink Crispy

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

While photinia is usually used for hedging, its evergreen foliage makes it a useful border plant to keep gardens looking good through winter. The heavily marbled variegated foliage of this Photinia x fraseri ‘Pink Crispy’ adds so much appeal to my front-of-house border when many other plants have settled into dormancy for the winter. And, while its white early-summer flowers are tiny, this pretty foliage emerges a wonderful pink in spring, creating quite the show.

This variety is also very compact compared to many of its cousins and, although it’s capable or reaching 6 feet, my shrub tops out at around 3 feet in this water-starved soil.

Zones 7-9 Red Tip Photinia Shrub

I inherited all these plants when I bought the house, so they were well established long before I stopped watering them, and their extensive root systems adds to their drought tolerance. And while this border sits in the sun for most of the day, it is shaded for a few hours over midday, so these heat-tolerant plants are spared the most scorching of rays. I'd say all the plants in this border fall into the 'easy to grow' category, too.

Still, many of these plants are surprising survivors: if I were planning a zero-water border from scratch, I’d perhaps include the lavender, red valerian and sedum, but I certainly wouldn’t be choosing to plant a rose. But as my accidental xeriscaping experiment has shown, some plants might be absolutely fine with less water than we traditionally think.

For the last decade, I’ve been making easy switches to get more flowers for less work, to create a garden that almost takes care of itself. And now I’m experimenting with watering other borders a little less, to see how they cope, and if plants can be trained to become more drought-tolerant. And right now, any clever cheats to make gardening easier in this heatwave summer are to be welcomed.

Is there such a thing as a lavender dupe? Of course there is! In fact, you may find that there’s a plant out there that actually does the job even better than the original.

It sounds almost sacrilegious, I know. Especially as lavender has long been one of my go-to perennials thanks to its ability to tick off all three boxes when it comes to a plant that’s fragrant, drought tolerant, and beloved by pollinators everywhere.

Still, as much as I admire it, I’ll admit it isn’t always the easiest plant to keep looking its best. Woody stems, patchy growth, and a relatively short flowering window? All of that means your borders can be left looking tired by midsummer – and, for a while, I thought replacing it with salvia was the answer. Now, though, there's a new lavender dupe contending to be named the very best... and I'm wholly and utterly obsessed.

Meet The Lavender Dupe With Triple The Bloom Time

Oh yes, I’ve become increasingly convinced that catmint (especially bold varieties like Cat's Pajamas Catmint) is the lavender dupe that deserves way more attention than it's getting. Largely because, in many ways, it delivers everything I love about lavender (soft purple-blue flowers, aromatic foliage, and masses of bees), all while flowering for significantly longer and staying lush without developing those bare, woody stems that older lavender plants are known for.

Winter Greenhouse Nepeta Cat’s Pajamas Proven Winners, Catmint - Pot Size: 4.5in - Flowers

At first glance, it’s easy to mistake catmint for lavender. Both produce spikes of violet-blue flowers above silvery-green foliage, and both thrive in sunny, well-drained positions.

This means that, from a distance, they create the same hazy, romantic effect that works beautifully in cottage gardens, Mediterranean-style plantings, and wildlife borders.

(Image credit: Photo by Sam Scholes / Getty Images)

The biggest difference becomes apparent as the season progresses. Because, while many lavender varieties bloom for around four to six weeks, catmint can flower repeatedly from late spring until early fall when it’s lightly sheared after its first flush. In practice, that often means enjoying blooms for three times as long as lavender, especially in regions with long growing seasons.

I also love that catmint naturally forms soft lavender-like mounds without becoming woody as it ages. Every gardener worth their salt will tell you that mature lavender can eventually develop thick stems if it isn’t pruned carefully every year, whereas catmint? Well, catmint simply gifts us fresh foliage and another wave of flowers.

Shop Lavender Dupes:

CATMINT

EKT Nursery Purrsian Blue Catmint

Catmint blooms forever, looks beautiful, and doesn't go woody!

SALVIA

WAROON Purple Salvia Plant

Another fragrant perennial, salvia is an absolute pollinator magnet.

ROSEMARY

TANKDA Rosemary Live Plant

A classic upright rosemary boasts the scent and color of your favorite lavender.

It may be a lavender dupe, but wildlife doesn't care one jot; bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects flock to the nectar-rich blooms of catmint throughout the growing season, and it provides an extended food source when many other early summer perennials have already faded.

It's also very forgiving. In fact, so long as it gets full sun and well-drained soil, it’s remarkably drought tolerant once it settles in, and rarely needs supplemental watering except during prolonged dry spells. Maintenance, too, is refreshingly simple; after the first flush of flowers begins to fade, just cut the entire plant back by around one-third and wait for another generous display of blooms.

I want it on record that I don’t think catmint replaces lavender entirely. Lavender’s unmistakable fragrance and evergreen structure still make it an invaluable garden plant, no matter what a clever lavender dupe has to say about it. Still, if your priority is continuous color, minimal maintenance, and a plant that stays fresh throughout the season without becoming woody, catmint definitely has the edge. Give it a go, I say! I doubt you will find yourself disappointed...

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

1181 Keith Rd., West Vancouver

Type: Four-bedroom, five-bathroom detached

Size: 3,113 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $2,919,000

Listed for: $3,280,000

Sold for: $2,920,000

Sold on: May 22

Days on market in this listing: 30

Listing agent: Haneef Virani PREC at Virani Real Estate Advisors

Buyers agent: Benson Lee PREC at Nu Stream Realty Inc.

The big sell: Selling for just over its assessed value is this four-bedroom West Vancouver home that blends luxury with functionality. It was built in 1999 on a gently sloping 200-foot-long lot in the district’s Ambleside community with a design that covers three levels to take full advantage of the south-facing city and ocean views. The principal reception rooms are on the middle level with a great room layout that enhances a natural flow between living, dining and kitchen areas accentuated by sleek hardwood floors and a wall of windows and french doors that open to a balcony. The contemporary kitchen features clean lines with white cabinets, Miele appliances, and a generous centre island topped with a warm butcher block-style countertop. Upstairs, the vaulted ensuited primary bedroom has a covered deck retreat, while a one-bedroom legal suite resides on the lowest level offering additional flexibility.

310 — 55 East Cordova St., Vancouver

Type: One-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment

Size: 699 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $544,000

Listed for: $598,000

Sold for: $550,000

Sold on: June 25

Days on market in this listing: 107

Listing agent: James Litman at Century 21 In Town Realty

Buyers agent: Adam Chahl PREC at Oakwyn Realty

The big sell: This one-bedroom apartment forms part of Gastown’s Koret Lofts, a live/work warehouse conversion with 118 units divided over six storeys. This particular home underwent a customized renovation in 2021 with a beautifully crafted kitchen with bespoke white birch millwork, glass panelling, Miele and Sub-Zero appliances, and marine edged stainless-steel countertops and backsplash. The bathroom features sophisticated Cosentino Dekton stone countertops imported from Spain, an angled matching stone sink, a double walk-in terrazzo tiled shower, Brizo fixtures, and Bocci lighting. Philips LED Hue smart lighting creates the perfect ambience while there are many reminders of the building’s origins with an exposed brick feature wall, wooden ceiling beams, and polished concrete floors. The home has a monthly maintenance fee of $411.12, and pets and rentals are permitted including short-term leases.

3027 Plateau Blvd., Coquitlam

Type: Five-bedroom, five-bathroom detached

Size: 6,883 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $3,443,000

Listed for: $2,999,900

Sold for: $2,875,000

Sold on: June 9

Days on market in this listing: 38

Listing agent: Jordon Sutton PREC and Fateme Parsaei at Angell Hasman & Associates Realty

Buyers agent: Nancy Zhou at Evergreen West Realty

The big sell: This architecturally distinctive residence resides on Coquitlam’s Plateau Boulevard which boasts large-scale homes in the city’s Westwood Plateau neighbourhood. Constructed in 1992, it showcases a brick exterior and a grand two-storey-high pillared, domed entranceway with ornate glasswork and clerestory windows surrounding the front door. The air-conditioned interior has been elegantly reimagined with — according to listing agent Jordon Sutton — more than $800,000 spent on bespoke upgrades. That accounts for handcrafted stained-glass doors, rich millwork, a chef-inspired kitchen with Wolf and Sub-Zero appliances, granite surfaces, a butler’s pantry and wine fridge, contemporary pendant light fixtures, wainscot panelling, designer tiles, a media room, and a lavish primary bedroom complete with triple-sided fireplace and sumptuous adjoining bathroom.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

Learn more about the latest mortgage rates and explore our guide to Canada’s lowest national insured and uninsured mortgage rates, updated daily.Related

• Sold (Bought): Location and layout seal the deal for Burke Mountain purchase
• Sold (Bought): East Van artist loft offers distinctive character and ample room

Wasps are called social stinging insects, but that doesn’t mean you’ll enjoy their company in your backyard or garden. The term "wasp” includes both yellowjackets and hornets, and – as somebody who has interacted with both of these types of wasps in my yard in France – I can tell you that neither are desirable neighbors.

You are far more likely to have yellowjackets than hornets in the US, no matter where you reside. That’s because true hornets are rare in this country and yellowjackets are common, often living in nests underground. Though much smaller than hornets, yellowjackets are more aggressive and can zip out of a tiny hole in the ground and sting you multiple times.

So how do you know if a small hole in your yard is a hidden nest and how do you prevent yellowjackets from nesting in your yard? Here's how to tell if holes in your yard are the entrances to yellowjacket nests and what to do if they are.

Is That Hole a Yellowjacket Nest?

(Image credit: Judy_Dautovich-Ralf_Hunsinger / Getty Images)

If you wander about your landscape looking for holes in your yard, you are sure to find more than a few. Yellowjackets nest underground and enter and exit by a small hole, usually about the size of a nickel.

But of course not every nickel-sized hole in the soil is going to be the revolving door to a wasp’s nest. A small hole might be a hole from an animal like a rodent. It could also be where you took out that stake from last year.

If the hole has piles of dirt, small rocks, or dead grass clippings around the entrance, that is more likely to hold yellowjackets. But there is one sure way of figuring out if a hole is one to watch out for.

Stand a solid distance away and watch the area during a warm summer afternoon. If you see a constant parade of small yellow-bodied wasps flying in and out of the hole, you’ve got yourself a yellowjacket problem.

How to Get Rid of Yellowjacket Nests

You can take steps to keep yellowjackets from choosing to live chez vous, like filling in old rodent holes you locate, keeping your garden free from garbage or yard debris, and cleaning every trace of food from your grill and picnic area.

But that doesn’t guarantee that you’ll be free of these stinging insects. So if you note a nest location in the yard, here are some ideas for avoiding and safely battling yellowjackets in your yard.

1. Don’t use kamikaze tactics.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

People may tell you to evict in-ground wasps by sticking a hose down the hole into the nest or some such, but it’s really not a great idea. Experts suggest that you don’t confront the wasps at all on your own.

Although they are not generally aggressive (e.g. they aren’t likely to swarm up and attack you while you are sunbathing), they will defend themselves if they feel attacked and defend their nest if you approach.

I got attacked once when I was weed-whacking in the area of a nest. One sting hurts and, unlike bees, a yellowjacket can sting multiple times. Call in experts if the nest is in a really bad location and must be moved for your family’s safety. Or you can try a yellowjacket trap like this one from Amazon.

2. Remove items that attract yellowjackets.

(Image credit: RelaxFoto.de / Getty Images)

Yellowjackets don’t always just happen by. They are attracted into your yard for a variety of different reasons. By reducing or eliminating items that attract pests from your yard, you reduce your chances of having them nearby.

The things that attract yellowjackets include many different kinds of human food, especially anything with sugar in it, but also things like meat and fruit. Always clean up promptly and thoroughly after picnics and cookouts to wasp-proof your yard. This includes scrubbing down the grill and picnic table. Also, pick up and dispose of all fallen fruit since rotting fruit is full of sugars.

3. Secure garbage in bins.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Wasps are also attracted to garbage and compost. Sacks of garbage and open compost heaps may be sufficient to lure the yellowjackets to your property. This is especially true if your family consumes sugary beverages in cans, like sodas or even beer that end up in open garbage bins.

Put these temptations in bins instead of heaps. Get garbage cans with lids that attach firmly and instruct every member of your family to be sure the lids are fully shut every time.

Instead of an open compost heap, get a contained compost bin like this tumbler from Home Depot and keep it closed unless you are putting things in it. Many items that end up in the compost are sugary or juicy and therefore attractive to yellowjackets.

4. Provide an alternative habitat.

(Image credit: Albert Fertl / Getty Images)

Yellowjackets sting, yes, but in many ways these wasps are beneficial insects. They eat (and get rid of) many other pests like unwanted caterpillars and aphids. Plus, they do some pollinating when they forage for nectar. If you can coexist with them, plant fall-blooming, nectar-rich perennials on the far side of your property to lure them yellowjackets from your patio.

What other flowers attract yellowjackets? Since they are especially hungry for plant nectary during late summer and autumn, pick flowers that appear in autumn. There are several fall-blooming flowers with shallow or open clusters that will appeal to yellowjackets. These include goldenrod, asters, catmint, salvia, yarrow, and sedum, which you can get from Nature Hills Nursery.

You know those roses that grocery stores and gas stations sell near the checkout? They tend to be the kind wrapped in cellophane, they cost about $6, and you buy them on impulse because you love the color or want to treat yourself. Unfortunately, what tends to happen is that you watch them die within a week. But what if you didn’t have to? What if you could turn that impulse purchase into a more permanent fixture in your yard?

Well, with a bit of potting soil and a little ingenuity, you can make this happen. It is possible to give those cut stems a second life as a blooming bush. Just grab a pair of garden scissors, snips or small shears, like the super-sharp Kings County Tools Pruning Shears from Amazon, and you too could be cultivating a gorgeous living rose display that lasts long after the original store-bought bouquet has gone.

This trick takes just minutes, and doesn’t need lots of previous rose-growing experience: just a sense of adventure and some delicate snips. You’ll be surprised how effectively you can propagate a rose that seemed destined to see out a few days in a vase. I’m actually super-annoyed I didn’t know about this sooner! Give this easy trick a shot – and that cheap bunch of blooms could very easily be coming up roses…

Can You Try Just Any Rose?

Being able to save a rose this way seems like the stuff of dreams. But I’ve been inspired by popular TikTok creator Joe’s Garden (@joesgarden), whose recent viral video showed me how simple it can be to make that unassuming bunch of roses live on… and on. However, before you start snipping away at every bouquet in sight, it pays to give your potential future rose bush a quick once-over in terms of general health.

Stem health is crucial for this trick to work. You need greenwood or semi-hardwood stems that are fresh, firm, and plump. Good signs include deep green leaves and active bumps at the nodes. You definitely don’t want stems that are dried out, woody, or mushy at the base. You’ll also want to avoid trying this trick on stems that might be showing signs of pests like powdery mildew. Pests can wipe out a summer cutting long before roots can develop.

(Image credit: Marrakeshh / Getty Images)

If you’d like to get a closer look at the quality of your roses and potential areas for cutting, use a magnifying glass or loupe. A high-magnification tool like the Vivosun 30X Illuminated Jeweler’s Loupe with LED Light from Amazon can help you examine leaf nodes and check for microscopic signs of pests or spores before you start. Also, bear in mind that cuttings grown on their own roots might possess a slightly different growth habit than the original plant. But that’s part of the fun of the experiment!

(Image credit: Zoonar-GmbH / Alamy)1. Prep Your Rose Stems

Joe’s Garden uses the kind of everyday roses you’d grab at Trader Joe’s or your local grocery store: nothing fancy required (that’s the beauty of this trick). Once you’ve had a look at your rose stems and you're happy that a few are up for the challenge, here’s what you do. First (and this might feel gut-wrenching), you’ve got to snip off the flower head. Leave an inch or two (5cm) of stem below the bloom when making your cut.

To make those ultra-clean cuts without crushing the tender stem fibers, it’s important to use really sharp snips, shears, or bypass pruners. The last thing you want is to wreck your stem tissue at the first pass. For a real bargain, the highly rated Fiskars Titanium Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from The Home Depot are also perfect for delicate snips.

Once you’ve removed the head, cut off a couple of inches (5cm) from the bottom of the stem. What you’re left with is the middle section, with 2-3 healthy leaf sets. For a healthy root cutting, make a 45-degree cut above one of the leaf nodes (the bumps on the stem where the leaves emerge). The angled cut makes more surface area available for rotting and stop water from pooling around the cut end, which can cause it to rot.

(Image credit: Andrii Borodai / Alamy)

Strip off the bottom leaves, leaving only the top set intact, so the plant can still photosynthesize without expending too much moisture. Too many leaves will cause the stem to dry out before any roots develop. You’re aiming for a stem length of 5-7 inches (12-17cm). If your original stem is really long, you can get a couple of usable cuttings from it.

2. Scrape Rose Stems (Optional But Worth It)

(Image credit: Anastassiya Bezhekenev / Getty Images)

This next step, while optional, is still recommended. It could be the difference between a cutting that roots quickly, and one that just sulks for several weeks. Joe lightly scrapes the bottom inch of each stem to expose the inner layers. You can do this using the back edge of a knife, a pruner blade, or even your fingernail. For delicate scraping, scalpels work well. You can pick Med Pride Scalpels from Amazon for a good price to gently shave your cuttings.

The scraping should be just enough to rough up the outer layer and expose the green cambium underneath (where cell growth happens fastest). To boost your odds of rooting success, immediately coat that freshly exposed cambium layer with a concentrated rooting hormone or gel. The Garden Safe TakeRoot Hormone Powder from Walmart is specifically aimed at encouraging fast root development on hardwood and softwood cuttings.

If you want a natural alternative, some gardeners dip the stem into raw unpasteurized honey or fresh aloe vera gel, both of which possess natural antimicrobial properties. If you’re using powder, just tap off any excess rooting powder, and you’re ready for the next step.

3. Place Stems into Potting Medium

(Image credit: Fir Mamat / Alamy)

You need a good-quality compost for this next bit. That old, dried-out stuff from the back of the shed just won’t do it. So find a light, well-draining, and highly breathable medium blend. Our team rates Back to the Roots Organic Compost from Lowe’s, which gives you an ultra-clean, nutrient-rich base (and it’s also manure-free). To help with drainage, add a little coarse sand or perlite. Miracle-Gro Perlite from The Home Depot can help with air circulation around developing roots.

Fill up a medium-sized container with a fresh, sterile mix. Hopefully you should be able to fit a few cuttings in this container, depending on the size you use. Poke a hole in the medium using a pencil or stick first. This prevents the rooting powder from scraping off as you push the stem down. Then drop each prepared cutting 2-3 inches (8cm) deep. Space the cuttings a few inches apart so they have room to develop without competing.

In his viral video, Joe puts all of his cuttings together in the same spot in the garden, which is great if you have a sheltered, semi-shaded area to use. However, you might prefer to keep them in individual pots in different places to spread the risk, as it were. Wherever you place your pots, be sure to firm the soil gently around the stem to lock out air pockets, and water thoroughly until moisture drips out the drainage holes.

4. Wait for Growth and Nurture

(Image credit: Alex Avedessian / 500px / Getty Images)

Now comes the tough bit: waiting. Once your potted cuttings are settled in a warm, brightly lit location that receives indirect sunlight and a little afternoon shade, there’s not much more to do but wait. You can, if you like, create a little ambient humidity by placing a clear plastic bag over the top of your cuttings. This can help to accelerate root growth. But apart from that, this is when you need to step back. After 3-4 weeks, tiny green shoots will start to appear.

If you gently tug at a cutting at this point, you will hopefully feel resistance. Congratulations, that means you have root growth! Whatever you do, don’t pull them up to check: just trust the process. Keep the medium consistently moist, but never waterlogged. Once you see signs of growth, remove any plastic bags you may have placed over the cuttings.

Hold off on feeding until the plant has produced several sets of fresh true leaves. At this point, you can add a little gentle organic liquid kelp or seaweed that has been diluted to quarter-strength every few weeks. A nice gentle option is Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon. Once the new shoots are firmly visible and the roots show they are clearly establishing, it’s time for transplanting.

Plant them into a larger container or directly into a garden bed in a sunny spot with good drainage. Treat them very gently, and keep them thoroughly watered throughout their first season. You can also add a granular feed during the growing season once they are well established. A popular organic granular option is Espoma Organic Rose-Tone Plant Food from Walmart for sturdy stems and vibrant flowers.

Will They Flower?

(Image credit: Bowonpat Sakaew / Getty Images)

Whether or not your rose cuttings flower in the first year is up to mother nature, and Joe is honest about this. Some cuttings do produce flowers in the first year, but others won’t. But as Joe points out, roses are perennials. This means they will come back every year, and each time they will be bigger and stronger than they previously were. Think of them as little human beings: we all start as babies, then grow into toddlers, teens, and so on. So if things seem a little uneventful in the first year, keep the faith.

Even if you do see flowers in the first year, it is best practice to pinch off any early flower buds. This forces the young plant to direct all of its energy into developing a bigger root system (for a better blooming display next time). Just be patient. Even if your first summer only produces leaves and stems, the next season can be spectacular. And it all started with a 6$ bouquet of roses from the grocery store. What a time to be alive, right?

Shop Rose Care Essentials

To give your grocery store rose experiment the best chance of transforming into a gorgeous outdoor shrub, a few little care essentials can make a massive difference. A curated action pack of inoculants, conditioners, and slow-release feeds will help to turn a simple cutting into a thriving rose bush. Here are our top hand-picked essentials to help things along.

Drainage Queen

Espoma Espoma Organic Cactus Mix

If you aren’t too sure about custom-blending potting soils, this ready-to-use organic mix is a secret weapon for plant propagation. Containing perlite and sand, it provides the rapid drainage and airy texture your rose cuttings need to root and thrive.

Biological Booster

TPS Nutrients TPS Nutrients Billions: Mycorrhizal Fungi

When propagation roots start to emerge, this concentrated powder introduces beneficial fungi to the roots. It increases water absorption and nutrient intake, while protecting young rose roots from soil-borne pathogens.

Classic Feed

Espoma Espoma Organic Rose-Tone Plant Food

A staple used in rose gardens for decades, this dry granular plant food is packed with natural ingredients and micronutrients. It provides continuous feeding for sturdy canes, deep green foliage, and vibrant flower colors.

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Plants that cost real money in spring can be had for nothing in late summer. August still offers usable softwood on plenty of shrubs and tender perennials, and six of them root easily enough for a first try.

Softwood is the current season's growth, judged by bending a stem until it breaks. A clean snap means it is ready. Anything that folds over without breaking is still too green. Anything that refuses to bend has gone woody. Most propagation advice points at June, and by August much of it has firmed toward semi-ripe. Plants that pushed a second flush after their first bloom still carry plenty of soft tips.

Rooting plant cuttings this late has one advantage: warmth. Plant cuttings that would have needed a heat mat in spring are ready to thrive now. Sharpen up your favorite pruners (we love the Corona sharpener from Amazon) and get snipping!

Cuttings to Take in August

Work in the morning while the stems are still full of water. A cutting wants to be around 4 inches (10cm) long, cut just below a node, with the lower leaves stripped. Use something sharp; crushed stems rot rather than root. Straight potting soil holds too much water, so half perlite from The Home Depot mixed through it drains better.

Two things need checking first. Patented cultivars cannot legally be propagated without a license, even at home. US plant patents run 20 years from filing, so anything long-established is free and clear. It's mostly the recent introductions — the branded reblooming hydrangeas, the newer coleus and calibrachoa series — where the tag matters. Enforcement targets commercial growers rather than private gardens, though the tag is worth a look.

Noxious weed listings are the second. Oregon prohibits propagating butterfly bush outright, and Washington quarantines it except for approved sterile cultivars.

1. Hydrangea

(Image credit: BIOSPHOTO / Alamy)

Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) root so readily that gardeners end up with spares. Choose a shoot that is not flowering, since blooming stems put their energy elsewhere. Cut the remaining leaves in half across the width. The hydrangea cutting loses less water that way and still photosynthesizes. Roots usually show inside three or four weeks. Pot them before winter and keep first-year plants sheltered, because young roots feel the cold more than the parent does. Panicle types respond just as willingly.

2. Butterfly Bush

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Free plants are close to a guarantee. Butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii) strikes from softwood at almost any point in the season. Rooted cuttings put on real size in year one. Use 5-inch (13cm) tips from this year's wood, and roots come inside a month without hormone or bottom heat. Wood from a shrub hard-pruned in spring does best.

3. Lavender

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Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) sits at the edge of softwood by August, so the snap test earns its keep. Strip the bottom two-thirds of leaves and dip the cut end in Take Root rooting hormone from Amazon, which lifts the strike rate noticeably on woody-stemmed herbs. Keep the medium barely damp. Lavender rots faster than it dries. That reverses the usual advice about never letting anything wilt.

4. Rosemary

(Image credit: Khrystyna Sun / Shutterstock)

A glass of water on a windowsill will root rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus), though those roots come out brittle and resent transplanting. Perlite gives a sturdier result. Use 4-inch (10cm) tips, then allow four to six weeks, since rosemary moves slower than most. What comes out is a plant that costs nothing and moves indoors ahead of frost.

5. Pelargonium

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Bedding geraniums are not geraniums at all. Pelargonium (Pelargonium x hortorum) stays soft into August when the shrubs have hardened off. Tips strike in three to six weeks. Skip the hormone and let the cut end dry for a few hours first, because these rot more readily than they fail. Anyone in a cold zone gets the most from this one — rooted cuttings take far less windowsill space than the whole plant.

6. Coleus

(Image credit: Anna in Sweden / Shutterstock)

Nothing about coleus (Coleus scutellarioides) is difficult. A snapped stem left in a jar of water throws roots in under a week. The leaf patterns hold true. Pinching the growing tip while cuttings come off makes the parent branch instead of stretching. Bring the rooted ones in before nights drop below 50F (10C). Stock plants will be waiting come spring.

Getting Cuttings to Root

Humidity is the whole game in August. A cutting has no roots. It keeps losing water through its leaves, so the air has to stay near saturated for two weeks. A seed starter tray with a humidity dome from Walmart handles that cheaply. A clear bag propped over a pot on sticks does the same job for free. Pelargonium is the exception, since it rots under cover.

Bright shade beats sun here. August light through a dome cooks cuttings fast, so the north side of a building or a spot under a tree suits better.

Test roots with a gentle tug rather than lifting anything out. Resistance means roots. Once they hold, open the dome wider each day for a week. A cutting moved straight into open air will wilt hard. Pot them up somewhere sheltered.

Next spring's garden will have cost a few afternoons and nothing else!

As gardeners, we're used to finding meaning in the natural world, whether that's through planting our birth flowers or following lunar calendars. But what if there was also a birth month groundcover for each month of the year?

Fine, I'll admit it: I've become slightly obsessed with these sorts of nature pairings. Birth month flowers (and the beautiful world of floriography) were only the beginning. Then came birth month trees. Birth month birds. Birth month animals. Somewhere along the way, I even found myself happily reading up on birth month bugs – something I never thought I'd type with a straight face.

The more I fell down the rabbit hole, the more one question kept nagging at me: what about the plants doing the hardest work in our gardens? Because groundcover plants rarely get the glory; nobody rushes outside to admire the thyme weaving between stepping stones or the creeping phlox spilling over a wall in quite the same way they admire a rose or peony, right?

Andrews McMeel Publishing Floriography: an Illustrated Guide to the Victorian Language of Flowers

Floriography is artist and illustrator Jessica Roux’s full-color guide to the historical uses and secret meanings behind an impressive array of flowers and herbs.

And yet...

Well, and yet these hardworking plants quietly suppress weeds, protect the soil, feed pollinators and soften every corner they touch. They're the dependable backbone of countless beautiful gardens, basically, which is exactly why they make such surprisingly good personality matches.

All 12 Birth Month Groundcover Plants

Unlike towering trees or showstopping blooms, groundcover plants succeed by persistence rather than spectacle. Some spread with unstoppable determination, while others create harmony wherever they grow. A few positively thrive where everything else struggles. (Sound like anyone you know?).

So, if you've already discovered your birth month herb and know your birth month vine by heart, here's one more piece of botanical fun to add to the list. Here's your birth month groundcover plant – along with a little on what it might reveal about you.

January – Creeping Thyme

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Creeping thyme happily grows between stepping stones, softens gravel paths, shrugs off dry spells, and releases the most wonderful scent whenever somebody walks across it. It never demands the spotlight, but somehow ends up tying the whole garden together.

That quiet determination? That ability to give and give while demanding very little in return? All of that is exactly why it's the perfect birth month groundcover plant for January, as people born in the year's first month are often described as ambitious, fiercely independent and natural leaders.

Creeping thyme reminds us that the strongest people don't always need to shout the loudest. Sometimes they simply keep showing up, one steady step at a time.

February – Creeping Phlox

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Every spring, creeping phlox performs one of my favorite garden magic tricks when it erupts into an impossibly colorful carpet of pink, lavender, blue or white blooms that spills over walls and brightens entire borders.

It feels a wonderfully fitting birth month groundcover for optimistic February babes, as their imaginative souls are often underestimated until suddenly everyone sees what they've been quietly building all along.

Like creeping phlox, they prove that a little patience can lead to something spectacular. If you fancy it, you can pay tribute with an emerald-blue creeping phlox, a bold scarlet creeping phlox, or a pretty bicolored candy-stripe creeping phlox (my personal favorite!).

March – Calamint

(Image credit: Getty Images)

March babies have long been famed as being thoughtful, compassionate, and the sort of people who quietly improve everyone's day without expecting applause. Enter stage left, then, their birth month groundcover plant: calamint!

Never demanding attention, it quietly produces hundreds of delicate flowers for months, drawing bees by the dozen while asking remarkably little in return. Hardy throughout USDA planting zones 5 to 8, it should look just like a fluffy cloud of blooms until the first frost.

Go for something like the Lesser Calamint from Nature Hills, then, to reap the benefits. (Don't let the name fool you; it's anything but lesser!).

April – Groundcover Rose

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April needs a birth month groundcover plant with confidence, and you'd best believe these roses fit the bill! They tumble enthusiastically across banks and borders, producing wave after wave of flowers despite heat, rain and whatever else the season throws at them.

They're bold without being fussy, and icnredibly beautiful without being delicate. Two truths which perfectly sum up the sort of energy April personalities bring into a room, of course.

May – Candytuft

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Candytuft (especially Alexander's White Candytuft) disappears beneath a blanket of crisp white flowers every spring before settling back into a neat mound of evergreen foliage that looks good long after the blooms have faded. It's reliable, unfussy, and happy to get on with the job without demanding much attention.

That makes it a fitting match for May personalities, who are often known for being patient, dependable, and wonderfully grounded. They're the people you can always count on, and much like candytuft itself, they prove that consistency is sometimes the most impressive quality of all.

June – Hardy Geranium 'Rozanne'

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Some plants simply get along with everybody, just like a hardy geranium. This pretty birth month groundcover plant threads its way between neighboring perennials without bullying them, flowers for months on end, and somehow makes every planting scheme look a little softer and more relaxed.

Consider it the botanical equivalent of that one friend who can turn up to any party and immediately get everyone talking – and I'm willing to bet that person is a June baby, as they tend to be open-minded, witty and endlessly sociable. They're often the ones bringing people together without even trying, basically.

Channel this energy with a Rozanne Hardy Geranium from Nature Hills, I say! You won't regret it.

July – Periwinkle

(Image credit: Alexander Denisenko / Shutterstock)

Evergreen through much of the year, Bowles' periwinkle forms a dense carpet of glossy foliage that protects the soil in every season, before scattering cheerful violet-blue flowers across its leaves in spring. It's one of those hardworking groundcovers that quietly creates shelter, both for the garden itself and for the insects that call it home.

July-born gardeners are often said to share those same nurturing qualities. Caring, intuitive, and deeply loyal, they're the people who instinctively look after everyone else. Like periwinkle, they create calm and comforting spaces without ever asking for recognition (more than enough reason to invest in a Bowles' periwinkle from Nature Hills, then!).

August – Weigela

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Low-growing weigelas don't believe in doing things by halves. When they flower, they're smothered in trumpet-shaped blooms that hummingbirds and other pollinators find almost impossible to resist. And, even after the flowers fade, many varieties continue putting on a show with colorful foliage that keeps borders looking lively for months.

August personalities have a similar presence to their birth month groundcover plant. Confident, warm-hearted, and natural leaders, they have a way of lifting the energy of every room they walk into – and, much like weigela, they rarely go unnoticed. Tune into that energy with a Very Fine Wine® Weigela from Nature Hills, stat.

September – Ajuga

(Image credit: Irina Pislari / Getty Images)

Ajuga is the birth month groundcover plant that seems to appreciate order. Its tidy rosettes spread into dense carpets of colorful foliage, while neat spikes of blue flowers rise above them in late spring. It's remarkably effective at filling awkward gaps, suppressing weeds, and keeping everything looking polished with surprisingly little effort.

That attention to detail makes it a natural fit for September personalities. Analytical, hardworking, and wonderfully observant, they're often the first to notice the little things everyone else overlooks – and it's usually those little things that make all the difference. If you really want to ramp things up, pack in some extra visual interest with a Chocolate Chip Ajuga.

October – Dianthus

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With its soft mounds of blue-green foliage and delicately fringed flowers, dianthus has a way of making every planting feel more balanced. It slips comfortably into cottage gardens, gravel gardens, and formal borders alike, complementing almost everything around it without ever overwhelming the display.

October babies (like yours truly) are often described in much the same way. Friendly, diplomatic, and naturally even-tempered, if I do say so myself, we have a talent for bringing people together and finding common ground. And, like dianthus, we prove that quiet charm can be every bit as memorable as bold displays, especially if you go for something as vivid as the Paint The Town Fuchsia Dianthus from Nature Hills!

November – Creeping Jenny

(Image credit: HHelene / Getty Images)

Give creeping Jenny a chance, and its bright golden foliage will tumble over walls, spill from containers, and quickly fill up bare patches of ground, bringing color to places that might otherwise be overlooked. In the right conditions, it's wonderfully enthusiastic – some gardeners would even say impossible to stop.

That's exactly why it suits November personalities so well. Strong-willed, passionate, and quietly determined, they're not the sort of people who give up when faced with an obstacle. Once they've decided on a direction, they keep moving until they get there (and this Golden Creeping Jenny from Nature Hills will prove that point a thousand times over if you let it!).

December – Sedum

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Sedums seem to save some of their best moments for when the rest of the garden is beginning to slow down. Their fleshy leaves shrug off drought and poor soils, while late-season flower heads become magnets for bees and butterflies just as many other nectar sources are disappearing. And, even after flowering, the seed heads remain standing well into winter, adding structure long after the growing season has ended.

All of which means this birth month groundcover plant is a lovely match for December personalities, who are often known for their generosity, optimism, and adventurous spirit. Like sedum, they have a habit of bringing warmth and color just when it's needed most (particularly if you up the ante with a vivid SunSparkler® Dazzling Dynamite Sedum).

Shop Three More Genius Groundcover Plants:

TEXTURE TREAT

Barrenwort ‘Spine Tingler’

We adore using the heart-shaped leaves of barrenwort as groundcover.

DESIGNER LOOK

Bugleweed ‘Black Scallop’

This handsome ‘Black Scallop’ boasts purple leaves so dark they’re almost black.

SMART SHADE SOLUTION

Hosta ‘Blue Mouse Ears’

This oh-so-cute hosta has petite, rounded leaves in an appealing blue-green hue .

Look, I'll admit that I really love the idea that we aren't always reflected by the biggest, brightest flowers. Because sometimes they're better represented by the plants working away beneath our feet, holding everything together without asking for much credit.

Think of them as the strong foundations of any garden... and any personality, too!

Gravel is an elegant and affordable option for a driveway, but there’s one big drawback: weeds. If you have a gravel driveway, then you know the constant battle against unwanted weeds popping up between the stones. But there’s a simple tool that solves this problem fast.

There seem to be an unlimited amount of tools and products to control weeds in gravel, but how do you know which ones actually work and are worth the money? Look no further, because our team of gardening experts have found the perfect tool for the job.

The Fiskars Ergo Hand Weeder, which is available right now for around $9 on Amazon, can easily eliminate all the weeds in your gravel driveway. Here’s why it’s the best tool for the job and how to use it. Plus, it’s great for the garden, too! I used it to stop tough weeds in my vegetable beds last summer.

Fiskars Ergo Garden Hand Weeder Tool

Get this high-quality yet affordable weeder on sale for under $9 now from Amazon.

Why This Tool Works Well for Gravel

One of the biggest draws of the Fiskars Ergo Hand Weeder, which is also available from Walmart and Ace Hardware for under $10, is its ergonomic design. It has an easy-to-hold rubberized handle that makes weeding accessible even for people with arthritis.

The thick, strong cast-aluminum head is another great feature of this product. It’s what allows me to quickly pull mature perennial weeds out of my vegetable garden using the same tool.

When I use this unique weeding tool in the grass to pull dandelions or in my garden to get rid of stubborn weeds, it takes a bit of force to wedge the tines down far enough into the soil to grip the taproot. But in a gravel driveway, gravel path, or garden with gravel mulch, it’s even easier. You can simply slip the tines down amongst the gravel stones and pull out the weed with little effort.

In addition to the ergonomic design and durability of this hand weeding tool, it also has a hole in the handle that allows you to hang it on a nail or hook in your garden shed. This handy weeder will fit right into your gardening tool arsenal.

(Image credit: Fiskars / Amazon)What Gardeners Are Saying

From using this hand weeder myself in my yard and vegetable garden, I understand all the rave reviews from the other Amazon users. This tool earned 4.5 stars from over 3,400 reviews.

Many users note the effectiveness, quality, durability, and ease of use as the best features of this tool and I agree. Fiskars is one of my go-to gardening tool brands for both quality and affordability.

The only downside I have for this product is that you have to be at ground level to use it. The ergonomic handle is easy to hold and use, but the problem is that you have to crouch, bend, squat, or kneel down to reach the weeds to use it.

That’s why long-handled weeding tools, like the Grampa’s Weeder (another of my favorites), are great choices for gardeners with back or knee pain or accessibility issues. But if you just have a handful of weeds in your gravel driveway and no limiting physical issues, this tool should work just fine.

(Image credit: Photos by R A Kearton/Moment/Getty Images)How to Get Rid of Weeds in a Gravel Driveway

To use the Fiskars Ergo Hand Weeder, slip the tines of the aluminum head at the base of the weed on either side of the main root. Many types of common weeds have a single deep taproot, so it’s easy to find the main root you need to hook.

Once you find the root, simply tilt back the handle towards you to pry up the weed and pull it out of your gravel driveway. It’s as easy as that! Just move onto the next weed and repeat the process until your drive is free of all unwanted weeds.

It’s best to remove weeds when they are small. The number one worst weeding mistake you can make is letting weeds get too big. But even if you ignore sprouts popping up in your driveway for a while, this tool is strong enough to pull out mature perennial weeds. It just makes it a much easier job to remove weeds when they’re younger and have less extensive root systems. It’s also good to remove weeds after rain when the ground is softer, but this doesn’t matter as much in a gravel driveway.

Now I'm using old cardboard boxes to mulch my vegetable patch this summer, my plants are flourishing despite the heat, I spend far less time watering and weeding, and I don’t have to deal with cat poop. It took an hour to do, and didn’t cost me a penny. And even though I only mulched this raised bed a week ago, I've already saved more time than it took to lay the cardboard. So from now on, I’ll be making cardboarding an essential part of growing vegetables in my garden – and yes, I do think this brilliant DIY gardening trick deserves a new word.

As a gardening editor, I get to read piles of garden articles and my feeds spill with greenery and gardening hacks. I read an article about using cardboard boxes to smother weeds and start new beds; then I read another about using cardboard as a mulch to lock moisture in the soil, and I was intrigued.

You see, my veggie bed was in dire need of help this El Niño summer. Exposed and south-facing, my garden had withstood 8 weeks with zero rainfall and was reliant on my irrigation which, 2 weeks into a hosepipe ban, had become more erratic than ever. I'd been so busy that, in my vegetable patch, weeds had grown so tall they were flowering and seeding. And the one area of bare earth? My cats had adopted it as their favorite poop spot.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I had a bunch of cardboard boxes waiting to be recycled, so I decided to give this eco-friendly, biodegradable mulching idea a go. And honestly, laying a cardboard mulch is the best thing I’ve done all summer. As well as the expected benefits, the cardboard layer means I can (literally) throw buckets of water onto the veggie bed without worrying about washing soil away, so it (literally) takes me a minute to irrigate the entire patch. Earth has already accumulated around the necks of holes cut to accommodate plants, creating pools that hold water so more gets to the roots where it's needed. My free mulch looks pretty good, too.

I'm sharing exactly how I did it, because I reckon you should, too – honestly, it's been a game-changer for growing vegetables in a hot summer.

1. Pull Out the Worst Weeds

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

While the cardboard will quickly smother seedling weeds, I pulled all the perennial weeds such as thistles and nettles, as well as annual weeds that had grown big. Because my garden is next to a hay field, all sorts of seeds blow in, and my bucket was soon filled with an A–Z of weeds. I even discovered a self-seeded poppy.

2. Flatten and Prep Boxes

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I flattened the boxes and removed all the packaging tape and address labels from the cardboard. I didn't want chemicals from these leaching into the soil, or plastic that wouldn't break down, and removing them also made the cardboard more porous.

3. Lay the Cardboard on the Soil

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I laid sections of cardboard on the soil surface, cutting holes to fit around the plants and doing my best to overlap the edges by a couple of inches. Because this is a raised bed, the cardboard didn't need weighing down to keep it in place; if my veg patch was a bed in the ground, I'd put a few stones along the edges of the cardboard stop the wind getting beneath it.

4. Water Thoroughly

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I threw a fair few gallons of water onto the cardboard, both to hydrate the bed but also to wet the cardboard so it softened, molded itself closer to the soil surface and all the sections stuck together where they overlapped.

Before and After

Here’s a photo I took before I started, with the weeds out-competing my poor veggies for moisture (the shame!):

(Image credit: Emma Kendel)

Here’s a photo I took an hour later, once I’d finished.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)Is the Cardboard Mulch Working?

Definitely. The good news is that since I mulched my vegetable patch with cardboard, the plants are doing better than ever, though I'm spending far less time watering. I haven’t seen a single cat poop, either, and I can't tell you how happy I am about that.

In the week since I laid the cardboard, the corn has started fruiting.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

The cucumber has thrown out several new stems.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Even the artichokes – which I thought the heat had killed off – have started shooting from their bases.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I’d really recommend using cardboard to mulch vegetable beds. In my garden, the cardboard mulch is doing a great job of suppressing weeds and it’s saving me so much time watering in this heatwave weather. Even when the top surface of the cardboard looks totally dry, when I lift a corner the soil below is still nice and moist. All the worms seem super-happy, too. The cardboard will slowly break down to improve the soil structure and next year, I won’t have to bother cutting around the plants either, as I’ll be cardboarding before I sow, leaving a criss-cross of gaps.

I already add shredded cardboard to my compost heap but using it as a mulch, too, works wonders. As I practise no-dig gardening in this bed, the cardboard doesn't cause me any issues and, in spring, I'll simply lay my usual layer of compost mulch over the top. I'll be trying this mulching method on my shrub border, too, laying cardboard before I tip over a layer of compost, to beef up its weed suppressing and water conserving abilities. As gardening tips go, laying a cardboard mulch has been a real game-changer for me.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)More Biodegradable Mulches

Nutritious Top Layer

Miracle-Gro Organic All-Natural Dye-Free Mulch

large-scale growing

Biodegradable Paper Weed Barrier 4 X 100 Ft Mulch Rolls

highly absorbent

Plantonix Coco Bliss Coconut Coir Chip Sustainable Mulch

Just in case you’re wondering, the self-seeded poppy survived the cardboarding process!

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

After weeks of relentless heat and drought, my garden borders are exhausted. But a well-chosen plant pairing can inject new life and keep the momentum going into fall. One of my favorite ways to bridge the late-summer-to-fall gap is to combine black-eyed Susan and red hot poker. Mixing vivid color with two very different flower shapes, these easy-to-grow perennials can bring back some of that lost intensity.

The delightful, daisy-like flowers of black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) create a soft, golden mound, while the dazzling spikes of red hot poker (Kniphofia) rise up above the border like blazing torches. Together, they add fullness, height, and contrast without making the planting feel excessive. The combination looks sunny and joyful in August, while transitioning into an autumnal vibe as September arrives.

Several variety pairings can work here, but my top picks for this combo are Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’, available to order online from Garden Goods Direct, and Pyromania ‘Rocket’s Red Glare’ red hot poker, available from Plant Addicts. The kniphofia’s tall flower spikes open from warm red buds into creamy peach blooms, creating a fiery contrast with the rudbeckia’s golden flowers.

And it’s not all about looks – this is also a pairing that works practically. Both plants thrive in full sun and well-drained soil, and their flowering periods overlap to help extend the season from midsummer through mid-fall.

Walters Gardens American Gold Rush Black Eyed Susan

Proven Winners Pyromania Rocket's Red Glare Red Hot Poker

Proven Winners Pyromania Orange Blaze Red Hot Poker

Why Black-Eyed Susan and Red Hot Poker Look So Good Together

Linked by their warmth of coloring, black-eyed Susan and red hot poker provide clear contrast without competing for attention. The golden yellow of the rudbeckia echoes the red, orange, and yellow tones of the red hot poker, creating a warm palette that carries the border across the seasons. The dark centers of the black-eyed Susan flowers are important, too, breaking up all that brightness and adding depth to the look.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

For the strongest effect, use Rudbeckia as the lower, fuller layer, with Kniphofia positioned behind it or allowed to rise at intervals through the drift. Structurally, each plant plays its part, as black-eyed Susan gives volume and continuity, while the spikes of red hot poker give vertical accents that draw the eye upward.

Choose a repeat-flowering red hot poker to ensure fresh flower spikes continue appearing well beyond midsummer. As well as Pyromania Rocket’s Red Glare red hot poker, other good options include Pyromania Backdraft, Orange Vanilla Popsicle, and Orange Blaze, available at Plant Addicts.

Alternative black-eyed Susans that work in this pairing include the ever-popular 'Goldsturm', available at Walmart, as well as 'Early Bird Gold', and ‘Little Goldstar’

Avoid planting this pairing in a strict alternating row, which can look fussy and contrived. Loose groupings and irregular repetition will create a more natural-looking layered garden design.

(Image credit: Daseaford / Shutterstock)How to Grow Them Together

For this combination to perform at its best, you need to plant them in a full-sun location in well-draining soil that has a little moisture retention. The plants’ hardiness ranges also overlap in USDA zones 6–9, and neither requires radically different care that could make the partnership difficult to maintain.

Water both plants moderately while they establish their roots; once settled, they have reasonable drought tolerance and should not need too much watering – though they will flower better if not allowed to stay dry for prolonged periods. Rudbeckia is more forgiving of consistently moist soil, while kniphofia is particularly sensitive to waterlogged ground.

For a small border, position one red hot poker plant slightly behind or off-center from a loose triangle of three rudbeckias, leaving enough room for each plant to reach its mature spread.

In a larger bed, repeat the grouping two or three times along the border, varying the spacing and position slightly.

Deadhead both plants regularly to encourage further flowers. It’s a good idea to leave some Rudbeckia seed heads standing toward the end of fall. They provide texture through winter and offer seeds for visiting birds.

Look after your rose plants in August and you’ll be richly rewarded with plenty more blooms. If your rose is a rebloomer or a repeat flowerer, the right care now can keep these shrubs flowering into fall, right up till the first frost. But even if your rose variety only provides a single flush of flowers that’s already over, good August rose care is vital: without it, too little water and late-summer diseases can threaten long-term plant health.

Roses use a heap of energy in summer, growing flowers and then hundreds of seeds, safely encased in shapely rosehips. Add in the heat stress of this El Niño summer, and you can understand why roses require your support in August. Neglect your plants now and they may cut their flowering period short, or succumb to an unsightly – and sometimes fatal – fungal rose disease. Feed them too late, and you’ll encourage growth that won’t survive winter temperatures. But with the right nurturing, many rose varieties will flower for months more, and all roses will enter winter dormancy strong and healthy.

Giving roses what they need in August is easy, whatever type you’re growing and in whichever zone. Ready to get started? Here’s everything you need to know to get the best possible results.

1. Water Deeply to Improve Drought Tolerance as Well as Hydration

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Keeping your plants hydrated should be at the top of your to-do list when it comes to what roses need in August. It's important to water deeply, however. Established roses will have grown a deep root system, stretching up to three feet down into the ground and, there are shallow feeder roots nearer the soil surface, it’s these lower roots that you should target with your irrigation. So, it’s far better to water established roses thoroughly, once a week, than it is to give them a light watering every day.

Less mature roses will need watering more often, but you should still aim to water deeply, to encourage those roots to delve down in their search for moisture as that will make them more drought-tolerant. Deep root systems will also help fix your shrubs in the ground, reducing wind-rock once fall storms arrive.

Roses in containers will also need watering more often but still, water deeply, until you see water draining from the drainage holes.

Aiming to water the ground at the base of the rose, rather than the plant itself, in early morning so any splashed leaves dry quickly, significantly reduces the risk of disease. A long watering wand that fits to a hosepipe such as this telescopic 36”-60” wand with a ratcheting head from Walmart makes that easy to do while you’re standing well clear of the thorns.

2. Remove Faded Flowers – But Leave Some for Rosehips

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Deadheading roses stops the plant from wasting energy on seed production and redirects it into new growth, so this is a key part of how to keep roses flowering into fall. And even rebloomers should be deadheaded: while they’ll still flower if you don’t, you’ll get more blooms if you do.

Now, many roses produce beautiful rosehips which not only bring great fall color but provide winter food for birds. Small seed-eating birds like finches will perch on the shrub to feed, while bigger birds like blackbirds will wait till frost has softened the outer case and the hips have fallen to the ground before eating the seeds. So, before you deadhead, think about whether or not you want rosehips, as removing the final flush of faded flowers will prevent them forming.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you’ve got a rebloomer or repeat flowering rose, you don’t need to worry – there are plenty more blooms to come. But if your rose is done flowering for the year, leave some faded blooms in place to form rosehips.

Use a pair of hand pruners – and do sharpen blades first as it’s a two-minute task and clean cuts are far easier for plants to heal – and cut the faded flower stem just above the first set of leaves below it. If your rose flowers in clusters, wait until all have bloomed then cut the stem below.

If you’re going on holiday, you can remove all the open flowers, not just the faded ones, and you’ll return to a heap of fresh buds just about to open.

Thornproof gloves

ThornProof Gardening Gloves for Women & Men

Bypass Pruners

Fiskars SmartFit Steel Bypass Hand Pruners

Sharpening Tool

Corona Handheld Garden Tool Blade Sharpener

3. Improve Airflow to Avoid Late-Summer Diseases

As we roll into late summer, more humidity and heavier dews in hot spells can create ideal conditions for common rose diseases including black spot, powdery mildew and rust. Good rose health is your number one guard against disease, as a happy, well-hydrated plant is far less susceptible. But hot on its heels is airflow. Good air circulation around a plant cuts damp spots where fungal diseases flourish, and it’s easy to achieve.

A well-pruned plant has far better airflow through it, but August isn’t the time to prune roses. You can, however, improve conditions now by regularly deadheading and removing any dying foliage, weeding the ground around the rose, and trimming any spring- or summer-flowering perennials that may have encroached on its space.

Regularly removing any dying leaves also gives you the opportunity to check for early signs of disease so you can act early. In August, look out for:

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• Rapidly enlarging dark purple or black patches on the top side of leaves, sometimes with a bright yellow ring around them. These are signs of black spot on roses (above).
• Scabby, dark or purplish patches on young stems, also common indicators of black spot.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• A white or grey powdery coating on the leaves, stems and buds. This is likely powdery mildew (above).
• Stunted new growth is another sign of powdery mildew, and you may see the edges of young leaves curling upwards into a boat shape, and fresh stems might appear deformed.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Small yellow spots on the top of the leaf, with orange or dark pustules in the same place on the underside, are signs of rust (above).
• Leaves discoloring and/or being dropped prematurely can be caused by any of these diseases.

Catch any of these diseases early and they’re easy to deal with. Pick off all diseased leaves and prune any severely infected stems, disinfecting pruners with isopropyl alcohol between each and every cut. Rake up all fallen leaves from the base of the plant, too. Dispose of this infected plant material in your household waste bin, not your home compost heap.

Practise this good plant hygiene, and there’s no need to routinely spray for disease prevention.

Disinfect pruner blades

91% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Antiseptic, 32 Fl Oz

Rake up dropped leaves

66" Lightweight Shrub Rake With Aluminum Handle

Isolate infected leaves

Project Source 18 Gallon Bucket With Rope Handles

4. Move Roses in Pots to a Shadier Spot

In relentless summer temperatures, heat-stressed roses can stop blooming as plants prioritize basic survival over bud production. Plants in pots are particularly susceptible as the smaller volume of soil they’re growing in loses moisture and heats up much faster than the ground. So, even if you’re watering patio pots properly, you may not be rewarded with flowers.

The best solution to protect roses from scorching heat is to move containers to a spot that still enjoys morning sun but is shaded from the intense midday and early afternoon rays. Either physically move the pot, or position a container umbrella or privacy screen to cast a shadow when the sun is at its strongest. Remember you need to shade the container as well as the plant.

It’s also worth grouping potted plants together as this also lowers local temperatures.

Plant Mover

16" Plant Caddie With Lockable Wheel

Plant-Pot umbrellas

3 26" Plant Adjustable Sun Cover Umbrellas

Standalone Screen

NÄMMARÖ Indoor/Outdoor Wooden Privacy Screen

5. Feed Rebloomers to Fuel More Flowers – But Know When to Stop

If you’ve been feeding your rose all through summer, it’s tempting to carry on through August. But you should only fertilize at this point in the year if your rose is a repeat flowerer or rebloomer, continuously throwing out new flowers or enjoying a second late-season flush. And then, it’s vital you choose a high-potassium feed.

Feeding roses that are done blooming for the year, or feeding any rose a fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen in August, will encourage leafy new growth that won’t have time to harden before the winter. The result? Stressed plants and damaged stems you’ll simply have to prune anyway in early spring.

If your rose is still blooming in August, it’s almost certainly a rebloomer or repeat-flowerer, so you can safely feed it. Choose a soluble liquid feed that’s high in potassium, tailored for rose or flower production. To check that it's high in potassium, look at the three numbers on the packaging; the last number should be the highest. Check even if it's a rose food as those designed for spring use are too high in nitrogen (indicated by the first number) to be applied in August.

(Image credit: Amateur Gardening)

Heed dilution instructions as too high a concentration can cause fertilizer burn, particularly in hot summer weather. Rather than applying the feed close to the base of the plant, target the dripline of the plant – that’s the ground beneath the outer diameter of the plant, where rain would fall – as this is where those feeder roots are concentrated. A watering can with a head that can be angled downwards makes it easier not to splash the feed on the leaves, which can cause scorching.

If you feel your rose could do with a pick-me-up and it’s done blooming for this year, or you’re not sure if it’s a rebloomer or repeat flowerer, treat it to a low dose of seaweed tonic. That will boost root growth but won’t trigger any fresh leafy stems at this point in the year.

Don't feed roses past mid-August or you’ll interfere with the plant’s natural signals to slow down and enter dormancy over winter.

High potassium rose feed

Rose Liquid Plant Food for More Blooms 3-3.6-5.1

Easy-Pour can

Bloem 2.6 Gallon Watering Can With Adjustable Head

Seaweed Tonic

Bloom City Seaweed and Kelp Liquid Fertilizer

And that's it, you're done! August rose care is all about supporting plants through the stress of summer heat, while not overdoing it so as to interrupt their natural slide into dormancy in late fall. Keep roses properly hydrated, deadheaded, fed appropriately and shaded from intense sun, while taking steps to avoid late-summer diseases, and your plants will stay happy and healthy. Do these essential rose care tasks and, if your rose is a rebloomer or a repeat flowerer, you'll be rewarded by flushes of fresh blooms, week after week.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The soil is still warm. August feels like the tail end of the growing season, which is exactly why the beds get abandoned early. Six vegetables sown now mature fast enough to fill a harvest basket before frost arrives.

Midsummer gardens start looking tired around now, and it's tempting to let the beds coast into fall. Warm soil speeds up germination, though. Shortening days work in favor of anything grown for leaves or roots. Plenty of crops planted in August will still hit maturity while the weather holds.

Match days to maturity against the average first frost date, then pad that number a little. Cold weather crops handle a light freeze without complaint. Several of them taste better after one. Anything tender has to finish before cold sets in for good, so the fast growers go in first.

Fast Crops Worth Sowing Now

Seed packet advice assume decent conditions. Fall hands out shorter days plus a cooling seedbed, so adding a week or two to that number keeps expectations reasonable.

Soil that is above 85F (29C) will stall germination on a few of these. A soil thermometer from Walmart settles that question in about half a minute.

1. Bush Beans

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Most gardeners file beans under summer and leave it there. Bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) go from seed to picking in roughly 50 days, though, so an August sowing lands comfortably ahead of frost across a lot of the country. Germination in warm ground can happen inside of three days. Beans will not tolerate freezing, at all. The countdown matters here more than it does for the hardier crops. Pick young and pick often.

2. Radishes

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Three or four weeks is the whole run from sowing to pulling, which barely counts as a commitment. Radishes (Raphanus sativus) slot into gaps between slower crops. Fall roots come out milder than spring ones — the heat that turns them sharp and woody is on its way out by then. Sow a short row every couple weeks instead of the whole packet at once, or everything sizes up together and half of it splits before anyone gets around to pulling it.

3. Carrots

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Timing gets tighter here, since even the quicker carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) want 60 to 70 days. Southern gardens have room for that. Northern ones are cutting it close unless the bed gets covered later on. Germination is the fussy part — seed sits shallow and dries out fast under an August sun, so the top inch (2.5cm) has to stay damp for a good stretch. A length of shade cloth from Amazon over the row takes some pressure off the daily watering. The cover comes off once the seedlings are through.

4. Beets

(Image credit: Connect Images / Getty Images)

Two harvests come off one planting, since the greens are worth eating long before the roots size up. Thinning plants go straight into a pan. Beets (Beta vulgaris) want 50 to 60 days for a decent root. After that they hold in the ground through several frosts, sweetening while they sit. Crowding happens no matter how carefully the sowing goes — what looks like a single seed is really a cluster. Thin to about 3 inches (8cm) once the seedlings are up.

5. Broccoli

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Seed started this late will not head up in time anywhere north of the Gulf. Transplants are the practical route for broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica). Nurseries stock them for exactly that reason. Heat stress on a young plant causes buttoning — a tiny useless head, then nothing. Shade during the first week after setting out is closer to mandatory than optional. Cabbage loopers (Trichoplusia ni) are still working in late summer and can strip a young plant fast, so netting goes on early rather than after the damage shows. Side shoots keep coming after the main head is cut.

6. Kale

(Image credit: Successo Images / Shutterstock)

Frost improves kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica). Not much else in the garden can claim that. The flavor shifts from harsh to mild over a single cold snap — cold triggers sugar production in the leaves, a rough antifreeze. Plants set out now have time to bulk up first. Harvest from the bottom leaves upward and the same plant keeps producing into winter in milder zones. That last part is reason enough on its own.

Getting the Timing Right

(Image credit: Nick David / Getty Images)

Counting backward from the average first frost date is the whole method. Take the maturity number and add ten to fourteen days for the fall slowdown. Count back from there. Anything landing past the date needs either a shorter crop or some help.

Help is cheap. A floating row cover from The Home Depot thrown over the bed on a cold night holds a few degrees. A few degrees is often the difference between losing a bean planting and getting another two weeks out of it. It's a hedge against a bad week, not a season extension in itself.

Frost dates are averages anyway — the first hard freeze can turn up well ahead of schedule, so watching the forecast through October pays off. Plant a little more than seems reasonable, and the fall table tends to take care of itself.

New to using a chainsaw? Let’s be honest, it might seem a bit daunting. Holding a chainsaw for the first time can make even the most enthusiastic gardener feel a surge of nervous adrenaline. That sudden kick of motor power, the awareness of serious slicing ability working at speed, and then there’s the noise – it’s enough to make anyone stop in their tracks.

But knowing how to use a chainsaw can be a game-changer in the backyard, and it’s not that tricky to master the basics. Once you have a handle on the basic mechanics, safety habits and correct handling, that initial hesitation quickly gives way to the thrill of highly efficient backyard cuts. Chainsaws are essential gardening tools to help you blitz through gardening projects, so it’s well worth getting acquainted. Whether you’re cutting firewood or trimming small trees, they are a real time-saver.

Armed with clear techniques, safety fundamentals, and proper preparation, operating a chainsaw can be one of the most rewarding tasks in the yard. So, here’s how to make smooth, satisfying (and safe!) cuts with your new best gardening friend.

Getting Started

If you’ve spent any time tackling yard work with a manual bow saw or loppers, you already know the exhaustion that can come with it. What starts as a simple pruning job often turns into a blisters-and-backache endurance test. Upgrading to a chainsaw can transform your gardening capabilities. Perhaps the toughest bit is getting your head around their sheer force, speed and slicing potential.

It helps to recognize that fear for what it really is: healthy respect. Your hesitation is simply your brain reminding you that you're handling a serious piece of equipment. The key to replacing that anxiety with confidence comes down to two things: setting up a controlled environment, and letting the machine do the hard labor for you. Before you touch the power switch, prepare your workspace.

(Image credit: Dmitriy Popoff / Getty Images)

Clear away trip hazards like loose vines or garden hoses. Make sure you have a solid, level footing, and a clear path to step back if a branch falls. If you are able to, it’s well worth investing in a dedicated cutting stand, work frame, or saw horse, like the WorkPro Folding Saw Horse from Amazon. Working on a firm, elevated surface is safer, protects your chain, and keeps you working at a back-friendly height. Then you're ready to start your chainsaw adventure, taking this one step at a time…

1. Safety First

(Image credit: Ramon Ivan Moreno / Getty Images)

Always wear protective gear, as it's your primary shield against flying wood chips and unexpected slips. Hearing protection, such as noise-canceling earmuffs, is essential when running power tools. For eye protection, lightweight wrap-around options like Hyper Tough Clear Safety Glasses from Walmart give you distortion-free visibility while keeping fine sawdust and stray splinters out of your eyes.

Protect your arms and legs from flying debris with heavy long sleeves and thick pants. If you want maximum reassurance, investing in dedicated leg protection like Forester Chainsaw Chaps from Amazon is a smart move. Their cut-retardant fibers are designed to instantly snag a moving chain and stop it in its tracks if a blade strays. Round out your gear with heavy-duty gloves and sensible, high-traction steel-toe or thick leather boots to keep your footing solid.

Being safe isn’t just about what you wear, though. It’s also about setting up your space and inspecting your machine. Clear a 10-foot (3m) perimeter around your workspace, and make sure children and pets are safely indoors. Inspect your chainsaw to ensure the bar oil reservoir is topped off and the chain brake engages smoothly. Never attempt to cut loose wood rolling on the ground. If you're trimming short branches or sizing down offcuts, clamp the wood into a sturdy tool like the WorkPro 4.5-Inch Swivel Bench Vise from Amazon, mounted on your workbench to keep it immobile.

2. Picking the Right Chainsaw

(Image credit: Coolpicture / Getty Images)

Choosing your first chainsaw is about finding the right balance between cutting capacity, weight, and personal comfort level. A saw that feels too heavy or unwieldy will quickly cause fatigue. And if you get tired, you’re more likely to make mistakes. Before looking at power sources, take a realistic look at your property's immediate needs. Are you clearing thin, overgrown branches once or twice a season, or are you regularly bucking thick hardwood logs for winter fuel?

You no longer have to default to heavy, loud, gas-guzzling machines. There are options for every comfort zone, from nimble one-handed tools to high-torque battery rigs. To help you pick the right cutting tool, the choice falls into one of these categories:

• Mini or Pruning Chainsaws: Exceptionally light (often 3-5 lbs) and battery-powered. Perfect for trimming overgrown shrubs, cutting back thick perennial stalks, and slicing branches up to 3 inches (8cm) thick.
• Battery-Powered Cordless Chainsaws: Quiet, low-maintenance, and emission-free. They start instantly with the pull of a trigger and deliver enough torque to cut medium-sized firewood and fallen branches without dealing with gas mixtures.
• Gas-Powered Chainsaws: Designed for heavy-duty timber cutting and storm cleanup. They offer endless runtime (as long as you have fuel), but demand more physical strength, routine motor maintenance, and pull-start operation.

Chainsaws for Beginners

If you’re shopping for your first chainsaw, the secret is matching the power source to your projects, while prioritizing safety and simple starting mechanisms. These stand-out saws strike the perfect balance between user-friendly design and cutting-edge performance.

Best Compact Pick

RYOBI Ryobi HP 18v Brushless Pruning Mini Chainsaw

Gardening Know How's Amy loves Ryobi and she rates this compact pruning saw. Loved for its lightweight agility, it operates effortlessly for quick cleanup jobs where full-sized saws feel like overkill, offering smooth maintenance and seamless battery compatibility across the 18V lineup. Power source: 18V battery (Ryobi ONE+ system), bar length: 6 inches (15cm). Best for light pruning, small limbs, panicle hydrangeas, and tight garden spots.

Best Battery All-Rounder

Greenworks Greenworks 40v 12-Inch Chainsaw, 2.0ah USB Battery and Charger

Delivering reliable cutting power without the noise, pull-cords, or gas fumes, this 12-inch (30 cm) cordless model provides push-button starts, automatic chain oiling, and a tool-less tensioning knob. Its low-vibration handle reduces arm fatigue, making it an ideal step up for general backyard property maintenance. Power source: 40V battery (Greenworks 40V system), bar length: 12 inches (30cm). Best for medium yard cleanup, storm debris, and small tree branches.

Best Value Corded Pick

BLACK+DECKER Black+Decker 12 Amp 16 Inch Electric Chainsaw (Model CS1216)

For under $100, this corded saw offers unlimited runtime without worrying about battery degradation or fuel mixing. It features a tool-free chain tensioning system for quick adjustments on the go, an automatic oiler, and a low-kickback bar engineered specifically for beginner safety. Power source: corded electric (12-amp motor), bar length: 16 inches (40cm). Best for: firewood prep, thick logs near the home or shed, and budget-conscious gardeners.

3. How to Make Smart Cuts

(Image credit: Getty)

Mastering your stance is the secret to feeling in complete command of the saw. Never stand directly behind the cutting path. Position yourself slightly to the left side of the machine so that if the saw moves unexpectedly, it clears your torso. Keep your elbows slightly flexed rather than locked rigid to absorb engine vibration.

Don’t forget those gloves. If you are looking for an upgrade on your current set or they are looking a little flimsy for chainsaw work, make sure you get something sturdy yet flexible. Try Husky Grain Cowhide Leather Impact Work Gloves from The Home Depot for thick knuckle padding and a textured palm grip. Hold your chainsaw firmly, with the front handle in your left hand and the rear in the right.

Wrap your fingers around the handles to hold the device steady and improve your control. Stand slightly to one side with your feet hip-width apart for stability. Aim to slowly lower the bottom of the blade onto the wood. Resist the temptation to exert too much pressure, though: let the chainsaw do the work for you.

(Image credit: Dan Draiss / Future)

For limbing, work from the base of the trunk upward, keeping the log between you and the blade when possible. For bucking, evaluate where the wood is under tension so your blade doesn't get pinched.

Approaching the branch, bring the engine up to full speed before touching the wood. Rest the bumper spikes (the metal teeth near the base of the bar) firmly against the log to act as a lever. Allow the weighted rotation of the chain to draw itself into the wood naturally. Forcing or pressing down on the bar stalls the motor and damages the chain teeth. Let this machine do the hard work: that’s what it’s designed for.

NB: Chainsaws are designed exclusively for right-handed operation, regardless of whether the user is left or right-handed. The left hand must always hold the front handle, and the right hand must always operate the rear trigger handle.

4. Understand and Prevent Kickback

(Image credit: Photovs / Getty Images)

Kickback occurs when the moving chain at the upper tip of the guide bar (the kickback zone) strikes a hard object or gets pinched, causing the saw to jerk upward toward you. You can minimize this risk by cutting with the middle or lower section of the bar rather than the tip. Keep an eye out for hidden fencing, roots, or neighboring branches. That proper posture is key, so keep your left hand locked on the front handle and right hand on the trigger, with your body safely out of the blade path.

A properly tensioned, sharp chain is far less prone to sagging, catching, or pinching mid-cut. Before powering up, check for chain sag and adjust the bar nuts to keep movement smooth and predictable. A handy tool for this is the OSROENE Multi-Tool Universal Scrench Spanner Wrench Set from Amazon, an inexpensive, all-in-one tool. This fits most standard bar nuts and makes quick, precise chain adjustments right in the yard.

5. Aftercare and Maintenance

(Image credit: Ambrozinio / Alamy)

Simple routine maintenance keeps your saw running smoothly, extends its working lifespan, and ensures every cut remains clean and effortless. A well-maintained saw is also fundamentally safer to use. Setting up a quick chainsaw checklist for easy maintenance makes all the difference. Immediately after use, disconnect the power (remove the battery pack or pull the spark plug cap).

Wipe down the guide bar to prevent rust, brush away wood dust and sticky resin from the bar groove and oil inlet holes, and top off the chain lubricant reservoir so it is ready for your next project. When storing your saw, remove the battery or add a stabilizer to gas tanks, keeping the unit in a dry, climate-controlled space.

Check your chain tension regularly. It should fit snugly against the bar with no more than an eighth-of-an-inch sag, while still pulling smoothly around the bar by hand. Finally, touch up dull cutting teeth with an angled round file whenever you notice the saw producing fine dust instead of clean wood chips. Keep an eye on this, and your chainsaw will keep grafting for you for years to come.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Unless you are the kind of person who always expects disasters to happen, you probably don’t lie awake at night wondering if your neighbor’s tree is going to fall into your yard. But this very real scenario does happen, especially during hurricanes and ice storms – and it could just as easily be your tree falling into a neighbor’s yard.

Unlike the hypothetical tree falling unheard in a forest, your neighbor is very likely to hear your tree as it crashes down on their house or garden. Whether this is caused by storm damage to trees or something else, one of the first questions that comes up is, “Who pays for the damage when a tree falls?”

There is a very clear, two-word answer to this question: It depends. Below are a few commonplace scenarios and how to handle them to ensure both you and your neighbor take the proper responsibility when one of your trees falls into the other's yard.

1. Damage Due to Acts of God

(Image credit: Volha Zhukava / Getty Images)

Perhaps the most common reason that healthy trees fall in a neighborhood is weather. A severe storm, a very strong wind, or a lightning strike can impact a tree on your property, causing it to fall onto the neighbor’s property. If a storm, blizzard, or other “act of God” uprooted the tree or sent a large branch to the ground, you will probably not be liable.

Although the tree started out on your property and ended up on the neighbor’s, it wasn’t your fault. You don’t control the weather! In this case, the neighbor will be responsible for any damages to his property. If their home or outbuildings were damaged, the neighbor can usually submit a claim to their homeowner’s insurance carrier.

Likewise, any damage to their car from your tree in this circumstance should be submitted to their own auto insurer. If neither car nor structure was hit, the costs of removing the tree usually fall on your neighbor.

2. Damage Due to Your Negligence

(Image credit: Ottoblotto / Getty Images)

On the other hand, if the tree that fell was dead, diseased, or rotting and you knew about it, you may be found liable both for the damages done and for the cost of removing the tree. Yes, in this case, financial responsibility depends on the health of the tree prior to the fall and what you knew it was unwell.

Your neighbor will have to prove to a court that you were negligent in this way if they sue you for damages. But if they sent you a letter or text about the unhealthy condition of the tree before it fell, that would probably be enough. Likewise, if they had a conversation with you about the hazard, this might also be sufficient, especially if a second person also heard the conversation.

3. Damage From Shared Trees

(Image credit: Joe_Potato / Getty Images)

The general law is that a tree belongs to you if the tree trunk stands on land you own. That is the case even if the current owner of the property did not plant the tree, but inherited it from another owner. However, it may be harder to prove that you knew a tree was unhealthy if the tree was not planted by you and it simply came with the house.

But what happens if the tree trunk is growing right on the property line? If any part of the trunk is on the neighbor’s property, the tree is considered shared. This scenario is a little like joint custody of kids in a divorce. The two neighbors have to negotiate the tree maintenance. Neither can trim, treat, or cut down the tree without the other’s permission and both are jointly responsible for any damage it does to either person's property.

4. Damage From Extending Branches

(Image credit: bgwalker / Getty Images)

A neighbor can take matters into their own hands if they see a large branch extending over the property line. The general rule is that a neighbor can prune off extending branches whether or not they appear in danger of falling. They can trim them up to the property line, but not over it, as long as they don’t damage the tree or go onto the adjoining property.

Any trimming that is on the owner’s side of the property boundary line will, in some states, make the neighbor liable to the owner for several times the amount of actual damages. If this trimming kills the tree, actual damages in a court case may include the price for replacing a mature tree, which can be quite expensive.

Tips to Keep You Out of Trouble

1. Keep lines of communication open with your neighbors. The more freely you can talk with one another, the easier it is to work out issues.
2. If your neighbor suggests that there may be a problem with one of your trees, take the news seriously. If you disagree, hire an arborist to take a look and offer their opinion, then share that opinion with the neighbor.
3. If the worst happens and your tree falls on the neighbor’s property, get involved. Even if it was caused by a storm and you aren’t liable, it’s good gardener etiquette to offer to help in some way.
4. Maintain your trees regularly. Most trees should be trimmed every year to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches and shape the tree. Keep your trees healthy by providing them with regular water during times of drought and treating them for insects or diseases.
5. Read and understand your homeowner’s insurance policy. You should know before any accidents what dangers you are insured against, particularly storm damage caused by falling trees or limbs.

Tree Trimming Essentials

DeWalt Pruning Chainsaw

Our experts reviewed this DeWalt pruning chainsaw and loved the big power packed into such a compact tool.

Fiskars 2-In-1 Extendable Tree Pruner and Pole Saw

Need to reach a high branch hanging over your neighbor's fence? This pole saw makes pruning tall trees easy.

Fiskars 28” Garden Bypass Loppers

Content Editor Laura loves these long-handled loppers for pruning smaller trees in her yard.

Spraying is the reflex. It knocks down whatever is flying at that moment and does nothing about why the yard looked good to them in the first place. Ticks, ants, and mosquitoes each want something specific from a property, usually moisture or cover, and a yard can be arranged to withhold it.

Not every problem takes the same fix. The common garden pests that chew leaves are a different question from the ones that bite people, and the layout answers differ too. Three changes handle most of the biting crowd. None of them involve a sprayer.

1. Make a Three-Foot Strip Ticks Won't Cross

(Image credit: Wirestock / Getty Images)

Ticks do not hop or fly. A blacklegged tick (Ixodes scapularis) climbs a stem and waits there, front legs out, for something to brush past. That habit is the weakness. Where mown lawn meets the wooded edge, a strip of gravel or wood chips about 3 feet (1m) wide leaves them nothing to climb and no moisture to sit in. Most that try to cross dry out partway. Lawns with a buffer like that tend to hold fewer ticks.

The tick barrier only works if it stays bare. Leaf litter blowing across rebuilds the humid layer ticks depend on, so raking it through a few times a season matters more than which material went down. Landscape fabric from Amazon underneath keeps weeds from stitching the two sides back together. Nothing about this is a wall. It's a border they have to cross in the open. Most never finish the trip. In addition, white-footed mice (Peromyscus leucopus) carry the ticks in to begin with, so woodpiles and bird feeders belong on the far side of the strip, well off the lawn.

2. Put the Scent Beside the Seats

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Lavender is good for repelling pests, but a lavender plant (Lavandula angustifolia) sitting still in a pot does close to nothing. Oil has to reach the air, which happens when leaves get brushed or warmed by an afternoon sun. Placement is the whole trick. Aromatic plants earn their keep within arm's reach of a chair, or spilling over a path edge where people walk through them on the way by.

Mint (Mentha x piperita) and lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) both carry compounds that make a patio less appealing to Asian tiger mosquitoes (Aedes albopictus). Neither clears a yard. What they shift is the odds close in, which is where anyone actually sits, and that species hunts low and by day. Running a hand along the stems before sitting down puts more oil in the air than the plant manages alone. Mint can spread aggressively, so keep it in a pot to stop roots from wandering. Lemongrass is not hardy through most of the country. Treating it as a container plant that comes indoors ahead of frost solves that.

3. Leave a Dry Band Where Ants Expect Mulch

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Mulch banked against a foundation is an open invitation. It keeps the seam where the wall meets the ground damp all season, which is the one condition odorous house ants (Tapinoma sessile) want. They nest in it. From there it's a short trip to any gap in the siding. Pulling the mulch back solves half of it. Filling the gap with a band of pea gravel from The Home Depot, roughly 12 inches (30cm) out from the foundation, takes the cover away too.

Depth counts for more than width. Two or three inches (5-8cm) of stone stays dry through most of the summer. A thin scatter still traps damp underneath, which defeats the point. Shrubs want cutting back from the siding for the same reason. Anything touching the house bridges the band, however wide the stone runs. None of this evicts a colony already inside a wall – but it does protect you from outside invaders.

4. Banish Standing Water

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Mosquitoes need standing water to finish their life cycle, and not much of it. A bottle cap holds enough for Aedes albopictus. Saucers under pots, a sagging tarp, a clogged gutter, the rim of a wheelbarrow left face up – every one of those runs a small hatchery on roughly an eight-day turnaround in summer heat. Gutters are the one people miss, since the water sits out of sight and packed debris holds it there. Walking the property once a week and tipping things over disrupts more breeding than any spray manages.

Grading handles what cannot be tipped. A low spot still holding water a week after rain wants soil moved, or a shallow swale cut to carry it off. Point downspouts away from the house, not into the same puddle at the corner. Some water has to stay, though. A rain barrel counts. So does a birdbath nobody empties. Bti mosquito dunks from Amazon kill the larvae without harming fish or pollinators. Use them to make a mosquito bucket of doom, and you yard will be pleasant to sit in through the worst of the season.