Organic Gardening News

Let's be honest: gardening can get expensive, especially if you're planting above ground. Maybe your soil isn't good, or maybe you don't have any soil, and you're growing on a balcony or patio. Whatever the reason, the result is the same – you need containers to hold all that dirt, and those containers don't necessarily come cheap.

There's one, however, that does! It's affordable, it's ubiquitous, and it's famously durable. You already know what it is, because you saw the picture up above, but let's give it a proper introduction anyway. Say hello to the humble cinder block.

(Image credit: Simon McGill / Getty Images)

Some call then breeze blocks; some call them concrete masonry units. Everyone on the planet knows them, and they're pretty easy to come by. But have you ever stopped to consider that they're the ideal shape for planting in? Unlike bricks, cinder blocks have hollow centers (really, two hollow centers, one on each half). This is by design – it significantly reduces weight and material while keeping the whole thing structurally sound. Just fill those hollow centers with soil and voila! You've made yourself an adorable double planter.

(Image credit: Diane Macdonald / Getty Images)Is It Safe to Grow Edibles in Cinder Blocks?

Let's get this out of the way: it's perfectly safe to grow edible plants in cinder blocks. You'll find plenty of people who'll tell you it's dangerous, but this is largely due to outdated information. (I actually researched this myself years ago). Basically, cinder blocks earned their name because they used to literally be made of cinders, a byproduct of burning coal, and it's true that you probably don't want to eat that. But while the name's still around, cinder blocks haven't been commercially made this way in over half a century. (More or less since we stopped burning massive amounts of coal).

These days they're just made of concrete, cast in the same shape. That means they're exactly as safe as that expensive concrete planter you're already growing your carrots in.

Where Can You Find Cinder Blocks?

(Image credit: j0ntog3l / 500px / Getty Images)

Cinder blocks are like a lot of things – you see them everywhere until the time you actually need one. Then, all of a sudden, they're scarce! Well, that might be for the best, because unless you're getting them from a trusted source, I'd recommend buying your cinder blocks new, especially if you're growing vegetables or herbs. That's because while the cinder blocks themselves are food-safe, the same can't necessarily be said of whatever they've come into contact with. Paint, solvent, mysterious dust... the more you think about it, the less desirable it becomes to plant your parsley in that cinder block you found lying around.

The good news is, cinder blocks are cheap. You can get them for under $3 pretty much everywhere. Amazon doesn't seem to deal in them. (They do sell mini cinder blocks – don't get duped!) But you can get them delivered from The Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace Hardware.

8x8x16 Cored Concrete Block

8 in. x 8 in. x 16 in. Concrete Block

8 X 8 X 16 Heavy Cinder Block

How to Make a Cinder Block Container Garden

Cinder blocks are great for container gardens for a few reasons. They have a cohesive look, they're stackable, and you can even build larger structures with them. It's an ideal raised bed design: Outline a bed with cinder blocks, and you can plant in the holes in the walls as well as in the bed! Turn a few on their sides and stack them, and you've got a living wall. Or just pile a few into a short pyramid for instant structure and intrigue.

(Image credit: Wendy Tabor / Getty Images)

At the end of the day, what you do with your cinder block containers is limited only by your imagination. So why not get a few (you can get six for under $20) and play around with them? At this price, you can't afford not to.

With better weather upon many parts of the US, it may feel as though your lawn is becoming a second home to your pets. It's adorable to see your dog run around doing joyful zoomies outdoors, begging to play just one more game of fetch or paddling in a pet pool to fend off the summer heat.

But what isn't so great is discovering that your lawn is suffering from enthusiastic digging sessions, lawn damage from dog urine, and goodness knows what else. There's only so much strategically placing your furniture for hosting over these spots can do, especially if you have multiple dogs wreaking havoc!

If your dogs have given a bit too much love to your lawn and you're left scratching your head over how to remedy the damage, you're in the right place. I asked experts in lawn care and dog behavior for their top tips on both how to fix a lawn that has been damaged by dogs, as well as how to prevent damage from happening in the first place. You really can have the best of both worlds – a dog-friendly landscape your pups are still free to roam that stays looking fresh – just implement a few of these handy tricks.

Common Types of Lawn Damage From Dogs

The most common problems your lawn may be facing due to your beloved dogs are pee spots, digging damage, and paw traffic.

The salt that naturally occurs in the urine of a dog will scald your lawn, especially when paired with sunny weather. Dogs often tend to pee in the same spot while marking their territory, so over time repeatedly exposing the grass to urine will result in brown patches in your grass. These patches will eventually die and require reseeding.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A dog mid-dig is having the time of their life, but their owner watching on as their lawn is covered in holes won't be feeling quite as happy. This can be particularly frustrating if you just managed to get your lawn how you like it and now its progress has become undone.

In the trio of problems here, paw traffic is a less considered factor when it comes to lawn damage, but it can have more of an impact on your grass than you may first think.

Dogs repeatedly running on a lawn will compact the soil underneath their feet, potentially stunting the growth of grass blades. This can lead to thinning grass that struggles to absorb water as easily and, over time, patches of grass in your yard may look fuller than others.

How to Fix & Prevent Pee Spots

(Image credit: Teamjackson / Getty Images)

If your lawn has brown pee scald patches due to dog urine, the best thing to do is to treat the area before trying any preventative measures. The easiest way to do this is to plant new grass seed and/or apply a lawn regrowth product, such as this pet patch repair treatment from Walmart, to anywhere that has been impacted.

Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, explains, "For existing damage, the best solution is to reseed or overseed the affected areas, which can help regenerate the grass.

"Using lawn repair products specifically formulated for pet urine damage can also be helpful, because they are often made with a mix of grass seed and soil conditioners to promote healthy regrowth. But always consult with your veterinarian if you have any concerns before you use them in your lawn."

In terms of preventative measures Ali Smith, a dog trainer and behavior consultant at Rebarkable has a great trick. Don't aim to stop your dogs from peeing on the lawn, aim to make the pee unable to scald the grass.

She explains, "The urea in the pee scalds the grass, so if you use a sprinkler (or a watering can!) directly after your dog has gone to the toilet it will help dilute the pee."

How to Fix & Prevent Digging Damage

(Image credit: sssss1gmel / Getty Images)

If your dogs have dug up the lawn, begin by filling in any holes in your yard from pets with soil and reseeding the area. But if it's a problem that keeps reoccurring, it's important to consider why your dogs might be digging so much in the first place.

Allison explains, "It's important to address the root causes of why your dogs may be digging so much, like boredom or excess energy. Make sure your dogs gets plenty of exercise, playtime, and mental stimulation to reduce the urge to dig.

"If they are still digging, you can designate a specific digging area with toys or treats that can help redirect their behavior away from your entire lawn. If your dogs dig for attention, reinforce positive behavior by rewarding them when they’re not digging."

If this doesn't seem to be doing the trick, Allison also recommends turning to natural forms of deterrent such as diluted vinegar or citrus peels to keep your dogs away from damage-prone areas of the yard.

How to Fix & Prevent Paw Traffic

(Image credit: gorodenkoff / Getty Images)

Craig Elworthy, founder of Lawnbright, explained to me that "constant paw traffic can lead to worn-out paths and compaction, creating bare patches over time."

Bare patches or tracks are best being reseeded so new growth can fill them in. But if your lawn has become compacted, using a lawn aerator, like this one from Amazon, is a great way to let it breathe again. It works by loosening up the soil, enabling water to better penetrate into the ground and reach the roots of your grass.

Regularly aerating your lawn going forward will help to prevent major compaction from developing in the future. Putting barriers such as a pet-friendly fence or garden furniture in the way of areas that you don't want to gain additional wear and tear is a good move, too.

If you have a local park that allows dogs, opting to take your dog there a couple of times a week to give your lawn a break from paw traffic can help a lot as well.

Shop Pet-Friendly Lawn Care Products

Sunday Pet Patch Spray

Reverse dog damage to your yard with this ready-to-use repair spray. It can treat up to 50 spots in your lawn.

Happy Paws Lawn Saver Soft Chews Supplement for Dogs

These tasty treats for your pup prevent pee spots before they ever happen. It naturally makes your dog's urine less acidic and prone to marking your grass.

Walensee Manual Lawn Aerator Tool

Fix compacted soil from pets (and people) running around your yard with this simple, yet effective lawn aerator.

When most people imagine a garden, they dream up a white picket fence with climbing roses and a sunny yard full of butterflies. It often lines the front yards of every idealized suburban home, and it’s become synonymous with a certain kind of domesticity. All you need is a golden retriever, and the image is complete.

However, once you actually have it in your own yard, the cons become clear pretty quickly. A traditional white picket fence often goes up to a maximum of 3 feet. Charming if you want to keep your border looking neat, absolutely useless when it comes to privacy, as nosy neighbors, passers by, and anyone with a dog can see directly into your front garden.

On top of that, it is one of those fence ideas that offers no wind protection or sound barrier. If you want a private garden boundary, it’s about as useful as a politely worded sign.

7 Boundary Ideas Replacing the White Picket Fence

Look, modern front yard fencing has come a long way; nowadays, there is a lot more emphasis on those boundaries that do much more than simply mark a line in the ground. And there are structures that offer real screening, suit many more garden styles, and last much longer than a painted softwood picket fence that requires maintenance every year.

Before doing any shopping, it’s worth checking out the latest fence paint color trends for 2026. And then, with that in mind, look this way for where to slop that paintbrush...

1. Outdoor Cedar Wood Privacy Screen with Aluminum Posts

The cedar wood privacy screen gives you all the looks of a horizontal fence panel but without digging into your yard or any permanent installation. It’s super versatile as the posts can be anchored in soil or hard surfaces, which means you can put it along a boundary, use it to screen a seating area, or position it anywhere you want some coverage.

RNSOLKG Outdoor Cedar Wood Privacy Screen

Best in modern front yards or patios, for people renting who want a boundary that isn’t permanent, and for anyone who just wants the warmth of natural wood without fully committing to a permanent fence.

This one is five feet tall, so it’s the perfect balance between decorative and functional. However, each panel is 40 inches wide so you’ll need a few put side by side.

The upside to this? Why, you can buy exactly as many as you need rather than committing to a fixed length upfront.

2. Mininfa Natural Rolled Bamboo Fence

Bamboo fencing fits into a particular sweet spot: it's really natural and eco-friendly, and it has a warmth and texture that a vinyl or metal fence could just never. It stands at 6 feet tall, meaning you get privacy with a lot more character than a standard timber panel.

Mininfa Mininfa Natural Rolled Bamboo Fence, Eco-Friendly Bamboo Fencing, 0.7 in D X 6 Feet High X 8 Feet Long, Bambou Screen for Garden, Privacy

It comes in a rolled format, meaning it can follow the contours of your boundary without needing perfectly level ground, and you can attach it to an existing chain-link or post fence to give it a small facelift. The hand-treated bamboo poles are held together with galvanized steel wires. In layman's terms, this means corrosion resistance, and the natural material blending into your plants rather than competing with them.

It works best for tropical-inspired gardens (when people think bamboo, they immediately think of the jungle), coastal settings, casual cottage-style spaces, and anyone who wants privacy without the industrial look of metal.

3. VEVOR Artificial Ivy Privacy Fence Screen

If you’re looking for a fast and budget-friendly way to transform your boundary, artificial ivy screening attached to an existing fence is a great idea. When done well, it looks seriously convincing from far away.

WUPUSDER Artificial Ivy Fence Privacy Screen With Mesh Back, 72" X 96" Faux Ivy Vine Leaf Fence Panels, Balcony Privacy Screen, Hedge Wall Decoration for Outside, Garden, Yard, Patio

This VEVOR panel uses UV-resistant artificial leaves on a reinforced mesh backing. It covers a solid 6-by-8-foot section per panel, meaning you can attach multiple panels side by side along a fence, railing, or wall for lush-looking coverage. The great thing about artificial is that you don’t need to water it, trim it (ivy grows super fast!), or maintain it throughout the seasons. While it would never fool a botanist close up, it can create a green, private boundary on a rental property, or along a fence when real planting isn’t an option.

This is best for renters, balconies, shady places where real plants won’t grow, and budget-conscious gardeners who want the look without the wait.

4. Kozyard 2-Pack Privacy Screen with Planter

This is one of the most clever options, as it’s a freestanding privacy screen with built-in raised planters; that means you can have your boundary and garden bed all in one. It has a rust-resistant aluminum frame with wood-plastic composite boards, meaning it’s weatherproof and very well-built. It measures at just under 6 feet tall with a dual-sided slat design you can put either way depending on which side of the screen you want to look at.

Kozyard Kozyard 2pack Privacy Screen With Planter, 70" H X 51" W Outdoor Garden Screen, Waterproof Aluminum Frame With Thick Wood-Plastic Boards, Decorative Privacy Screen for Patio, Balcony & Backyard Gray

You can use it to divide a patio from a garden, create a private corner around a seating area, or line a boundary where you want both screening and flowers. You can plant lavender, trailing herbs, ornamental grasses, or climbing sweet peas in the integrated planter and you've created a functional, beautiful boundary feature all in one single purchase. This works best for patios (it’s a great space saver), balconies, modern gardens, and anyone who wants to combine structure and gardening without two separate projects.

5. FOOWIN Metal Privacy Screen Outdoor Set of 2

Laser-cut metal privacy screens are having a real moment, and this leaf-pattern panel from FOOWIN is a really great example of why. It’s 6 feet tall, which means it brings height, but the cut-out design feels light and breathable. It comes in a set of 2 that can be put somewhere by themselves as statement dividers, or you can put them side by side along a boundary. The freestanding bases are great because they don’t require any digging or permanent installation.

FOOWIN Foowin Metal Privacy Screen Outdoor Set of 2, 72" H×47" W Privacy Fence, Privacy Fence Panels Freestanding,for Patio Garden Balcony,bamboo Leaf-Black

The matte black powder coat is weatherproof and maintenance-free, while the modern flower motif suits a variety of styles, from “modern minimalist” to “nature-inspired” gardens. These work best for people who want a boundary that is decorative while still being functional, and anyone who finds a solid fence panel to be too heavy while a lower picket fence is too exposed.

6. 6FT Outdoor Metal Privacy Screen — Freestanding Decorative Fence Panel with Stand

If you don’t like the idea of digging into your garden, this freestanding screen is the perfect option. Plus, it can be moved and repositioned easily as your garden grows and evolves. It’s a weather-resistant, practical choice at 6 feet tall.

WIZWERK 6ft Outdoor Metal Privacy Screen – Decorative Privacy Fence and Room/garden Divider, Weather-Resistant Freestanding Panel With Stand, Durable Steel for Patio, Garden, Balcony, or Backyard

It’s quite a substantial panel that can be used by itself as a garden divider or linked with more panels to create a longer boundary. The matte black powder coat finish is weatherproof and maintenance-free. On top of that, it includes a base with anchoring hardware to keep it stable without posts or permanent fixings. It’s ideal for renters, patios or anyone who doesn’t want to commit to something permanent.

It works best for patios, temporary boundaries, and people who want a boundary with flexibility. If you’re always changing your mind about the layout of your garden, this is the privacy screen for you.

7. WamBam Fence No-Dig Classic White Vinyl Privacy Fence

If you just can’t let go of the white picket fence but you need something that gives you more privacy and lasts more than a couple of years, this is the fence for you. WamBam's no-dig vinyl system uses a patented post anchor that drives directly into the ground without concrete or post-hole digging; essentially, this means it’s a perfectly manageable DIY project.

WamBam Fence 6ft H X 6ft W (1 Panel + 1 Post) Permanent No Dig Wambam Fence Kit, Durable White Vinyl Privacy Fence, Bli19110

Vinyl stays white and straight without maintenance. It’s an update to the traditional white picket fence you’ve always wanted, but it’s twice the height, gives you the privacy you want, and has that classic, all-American look. It’s traditional, so it works best for old-school front yards, cottage gardens, and anyone who wants a white picket fence aesthetic without the exposure.

Fence Treatment Ideas

Cabot Wood Toned Stain + Sealer (Cedar, 1 Gallon)

Cabot Cabot Wood Toned Stain + Sealer, Low Voc Exterior Natural Wood Stain, Cedar, Gallon

This is the most straightforward way to protect a natural wood fence as well as enhance the look. You just need 1 coat of this oil-based stain to penetrate the timber, bring out the grain, and provide mildew-resistant, water-repellent protection. It’s available in cedar and other natural wood tones.

DEFY Extreme Semi-Transparent Wood Stain and Sealer (1 Gallon)

DEFY Defy Extreme Wood Stain and Sealer in One - 1 Gallon Semi-Transparent Waterproof Coating for All Wood Types - Butternut

This is a water-based stain and sealer that rates high among independent reviewers. DEFY Extreme works. DEFY Extreme works on all wood types and allows the grain to show through. You can simply clean it up with soap and water.

Wood Defender Transparent Fence Wood Stain and Seal in One

Wood Defender Wood Defender Transparent Fence Wood Stain and Seal in One, Oil-Based Penetrating Sealer, Professional-Grade, Long-Lasting, Weather-Resistant Protector, Cedar Tone, 1-Gallon

This is a penetrating oil-based stain and sealer. It’s formulated specifically for exterior wood fences, and you only need one coat with no back-brushing necessary to bring out the natural grain of cedar, redwood, and pine. It also provides long-lasting UV and weather resistance.

Your Garden, Your Boundaries — Find the Fence That Actually Fits

Yes, the white picket fence has had a good run. But your garden should be your own, and the best fence for it is the one that actually suits your lifestyle, not the one that fits a certain ideal from a different era of gardening. Whether you want six feet of cedar for privacy, a bamboo roll for a natural feel, or a laser-cut metal panel that doubles as garden art, the options available now are way more interesting than the traditional alternative.

One thing worth resisting (as this is true for more than just fences) is the urge to follow trends just to please others. What looks beautiful in a magazine might be completely wrong in your own garden or look odd with the style of house you have. Think about what problem you want to solve, whether that’s nosy neighbors, wind protection, or a better backdrop for planting, and let that be a starting point.

When most people imagine a garden, they dream up a white picket fence with climbing roses and a sunny yard full of butterflies. It often lines the front yards of every idealized suburban home, and it’s become synonymous with a certain kind of domesticity. All you need is a golden retriever, and the image is complete.

However, once you actually have it in your own yard, the cons become clear pretty quickly. A traditional white picket fence often goes up to a maximum of 3 feet. Charming if you want to keep your border looking neat, absolutely useless when it comes to privacy, as nosy neighbors, passers by, and anyone with a dog can see directly into your front garden.

On top of that, it offers no wind protection or sound barrier. If you want a private garden boundary, it’s about as useful as a politely worded sign.

7 Boundary Ideas Replacing the White Picket Fence

Look, modern front yard fencing has come a long way; nowadays, there is a lot more emphasis on those boundaries that do much more than simply mark a line in the ground. And there are structures that offer real screening, suit many more garden styles, and last much longer than a painted softwood picket fence that requires maintenance every year.

Before doing any shopping, it’s worth checking out the latest fence paint color trends for 2026. And then, with that in mind, look this way for where to slop that paintbrush...

1. Outdoor Cedar Wood Privacy Screen with Aluminum Posts

This cedar wood privacy screen gives you all the looks of a horizontal fence panel but without digging into your yard or any permanent installation. It’s super versatile as the posts can be anchored in soil or hard surfaces. This means you can put it along a boundary, use it to screen a seating area, or position it anywhere you want some coverage.

RNSOLKG Outdoor Cedar Wood Privacy Screen

Best in modern front yards or patios, for people renting who want a boundary that isn’t permanent, and for anyone who just wants the warmth of natural wood without fully committing to a permanent fence.

This one is five feet tall, so it’s the perfect balance between decorative and functional. However, each panel is 40 inches wide so you’ll need a few put side by side.

The upside to this? Why, you can buy exactly as many as you need rather than committing to a fixed length upfront.

2. Mininfa Natural Rolled Bamboo Fence

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Bamboo fencing fits into a particular sweet spot: it's really natural and eco-friendly, and it has a warmth and texture that a vinyl or metal fence could just never. Especially as it stands at six feet tall, which means you get privacy with a lot more character than a standard timber panel.

Mininfa Natural Rolled Bamboo Fence

Best for tropical-inspired gardens (when people think bamboo, they immediately think of the jungle), coastal settings, casual cottage-style spaces, and anyone who wants privacy without the industrial look of metal.

Bamboo fencing comes in a rolled format, meaning it can follow the contours of your boundary without needing perfectly level ground, and you can attach it to an existing chain-link or post fence to give it a small facelift.

The hand-treated bamboo poles are held together with galvanized steel wires. In layman's terms, this means corrosion resistance, and the natural material blending into your plants rather than competing with them. Perfect.

3. VEVOR Artificial Ivy Privacy Fence Screen

If you’re looking for a fast and budget-friendly way to transform your boundary, artificial ivy screening attached to an existing fence is a great idea. When done well, it looks seriously convincing from far away.

WUPUSDER Artificial Ivy Fence Privacy Screen

This is best for renters, balconies, shady places where real plants won’t grow, and budget-conscious gardeners who want the look without the wait.

This VEVOR panel uses UV-resistant artificial leaves on a reinforced mesh backing. It covers a solid 6-by-8-foot section per panel, meaning you can attach multiple panels side by side along a fence, railing, or wall for lush-looking coverage.

The great thing about artificial is that you don’t need to water it, trim it (ivy grows super fast!), or maintain it throughout the seasons. While it would never fool a botanist close up, it can create a green, private boundary on a rental property, or along a fence when real planting isn’t an option.

4. Kozyard 2-Pack Privacy Screen with Planter

This is one of the most clever options, as it’s a freestanding privacy screen with built-in raised planters; that means you can have your boundary and garden bed all in one.

It has a rust-resistant aluminum frame with wood-plastic composite boards, meaning it’s weatherproof and very well-built. It measures at just under 6 feet tall with a dual-sided slat design you can put either way depending on which side of the screen you want to look at.

Kozyard 2pack Privacy Screen With Planter

This works best for patios (it’s a great space saver), balconies, modern gardens, and anyone who wants to combine structure and gardening without two separate projects.

You can use this boundary idea to divide a patio from a garden, create a private corner around a seating area, or line a space where you want both screening and flowers.

You can plant lavender, trailing herbs, ornamental grasses, or climbing sweet peas in the integrated planter and you've created a functional, beautiful boundary feature all in one single purchase.

5. FOOWIN Metal Privacy Screen Outdoor Set of 2

Laser-cut metal privacy screens are having a real moment, and this leaf-pattern panel from FOOWIN is a really great example of why. It’s 6 feet tall, which means it brings height, but the cut-out design feels light and breathable.

It comes in a set of 2 that can be put somewhere by themselves as statement dividers, or you can put them side by side along a boundary. The freestanding bases are great because they don’t require any digging or permanent installation.

FOOWIN Metal Privacy Screen

These work best for people who want a boundary that is decorative while still being functional, and anyone who finds a solid fence panel to be too heavy while a lower picket fence is too exposed.

The matte black powder coat on this boundary idea is weatherproof and maintenance-free, while the modern flower motif suits a variety of styles, from “modern minimalist” to “nature-inspired” gardens.

Perfect, basically!

6. 6FT Outdoor Metal Privacy Screen

If you don’t like the idea of digging into your garden, this freestanding screen is the perfect option. Plus, it can be moved and repositioned easily as your garden grows and evolves. It’s a weather-resistant, practical choice at 6 feet tall.

WIZWERK 6ft Outdoor Metal Privacy Screen

This works best for patios, temporary boundaries, and people who want a boundary with flexibility. If you’re always changing your mind about the layout of your garden, this is the privacy screen for you.

It’s quite a substantial panel that can be used by itself as a garden divider or linked with more panels to create a longer boundary. The matte black powder coat finish is weatherproof and maintenance-free.

On top of that, it includes a base with anchoring hardware to keep it stable without posts or permanent fixings. It’s ideal for renters, patios or anyone who doesn’t want to commit to something permanent.

7. WamBam Fence No-Dig Classic White Vinyl Privacy Fence

If you just can’t let go of the white picket fence but you need something that gives you more privacy and lasts more than a couple of years, this is the fence for you.

WamBam's no-dig vinyl system uses a patented post anchor that drives directly into the ground without concrete or post-hole digging; essentially, this means it’s a perfectly manageable DIY project.

WamBam Fence Permanent No Dig Wambam Fence Kit

This traditional boundary idea works best for old-school front yards, cottage gardens, and anyone who wants a white picket fence aesthetic without the exposure.

Vinyl stays white and straight without maintenance. It’s an update to the traditional white picket fence you’ve always wanted, but it’s twice the height, gives you the privacy you want, and has that classic, all-American look.

Shop Fence Treatment Ideas:

Cabot Wood Toned Stain + Sealer

This is the most straightforward way to protect a natural wood fence as well as enhance the look. You just need 1 coat of this oil-based stain to penetrate the timber, bring out the grain, and provide mildew-resistant, water-repellent protection. It’s available in cedar and other natural wood tones.

DEFY Extreme Wood Stain and Sealer in One

This is a water-based stain and sealer that rates high among independent reviewers. DEFY Extreme works. DEFY Extreme works on all wood types and allows the grain to show through. You can simply clean it up with soap and water.

Wood Defender Transparent Fence Wood Stain and Seal in One

This is a penetrating oil-based stain and sealer. It’s formulated specifically for exterior wood fences, and you only need one coat with no back-brushing necessary to bring out the natural grain of cedar, redwood, and pine. It also provides long-lasting UV and weather resistance.

Your Garden, Your Boundaries

Yes, the white picket fence has had a good run. But your garden should be your own, and the best fence for it is the one that actually suits your lifestyle, not the one that fits a certain ideal from a different era of gardening.

Whether you want six feet of cedar for privacy, a bamboo roll for a natural feel, or a laser-cut metal panel that doubles as garden art, the options available now are way more interesting than the traditional alternative.

One thing worth resisting (as this is true for more than just fences) is the urge to follow trends just to please others. What looks beautiful in a magazine might be completely wrong in your own garden or look odd with the style of house you have.

Think about what problem you want to solve, whether that’s nosy neighbors, wind protection, or a better backdrop for planting, and let that be a starting point. Good luck!

Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are a brand new type of hydrangea that bring a sweep of showstopper groundcover blooms to your garden. Just launched in America this July, these plants are selling out super-fast – and no wonder! The conical flowers last for 100 days and slowly change color for a sweep of multi-toned petals, and well-branched stems make for abundant blooms. And this striking summer show returns year after year for very little effort.

Growing out rather than up, Groundbreaker Hydrangeas only reach 12-16 inches high but spread 24-32 inches wide. Being a panicle hydrangea makes it low-maintenance to start with, but these resilient, reliable bloomers are particularly easy to grow. Unlike trad hydrangeas, these plants don’t need staking and are straightforward to prune, too, even for beginner gardeners.

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Suitable for zones 5-8, this low-level beauty can be grown in borders, containers, and as path edging. Its neat size makes it ideal for compact gardens and urban yards and, as quick and clever ideas for container gardens go, it's a winner! Those horizontal-habit stems will cascade from a tall planter or large hanging basket, too. Already one of the biggest garden trends of 2026, because Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are so versatile as well as hassle-free, these perennials make great gifts – for yourself as well as family and friends!

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)What are Groundbreaker Hydrangeas?

Groundbreaker hydrangeas are the world’s first groundcover hydrangea series. Bred from panicle hydrangeas in the Netherlands by Dutch breeder, Alex Schoemaker of Living Creations, this breeding breakthrough is an entirely new, innovative form of the popular shrub we all know and love. The Schoemaker family has been growing hydrangeas for six generations, and Alex specialises in Hydrangea paniculata. His goal? To develop new formulas with stronger stems, more colors and longer lifespans.

The low-growing habit of this hydrangea series first came about by chance during the pursuit of these objectives, when a particularly short plant cropped up among many, many hybrids in the test fields. In time, three cultivars of this new hydrangea form were developed, all with the trademark cone-shaped flowers of Hydrangea paniculata but with that groundbreaking groundcover habit.

Groundbreaker Blush Hydrangea

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Blush was the first Groundbreaker hydrangea to be bred in 2017, and was launched in 2024, becoming available to UK gardeners in 2025. Large white flower panicles bloom in July and gradually develop deepening blush pink tones, and the plant grows 12 inches high and 24 inches wide.

Groundbreaker Greeny Hydrangea

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Greeny followed, with flowers opening a bright lime green and petals gradually softening to an elegant creamy white. A little larger than Blush, Greeny grows to 16” high and 32” wide.

Groundbreaker Ruby Hydrangea

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Ruby was released for the 2026 season. This stunner’s blooms emerge white and slowly transition to a rich ruby red, and it grows to 16 inches high and spreads to 28 inches wide.

Where to Buy Groundbreaker Hydrangeas

While it takes many years to bring a new plant to market, US availability has lagged behind that in Europe because of import restrictions, but plants finally became available in July 2026.

Only released through a few speciality retailers, Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are pretty hard to get hold of, making them the hottest botanical ticket in town right now. At the time of writing, all three varieties – Blush, Ruby and Greeny – are available to preorder for October shipping from Plant Addicts. But you’d better be quick if you want one!

Dazzling display

Groundbreaker® Ruby™ Hydrangea

Blushing Blooms

Groundbreaker® Blush™ Hydrangea

Fresh Citrus Tone

Groundbreaker® Greeny™ Hydrangea

While it’s galling to have to wait a few months to get your hands on such a fabulous plant, a fall planting is far less stressful for any shrub, but particularly a hydrangea that likes to stay hydrated. The benefits of planting a hydrangea in fall are plentiful, but first and foremost, you’ll give your new hydrangea plenty of time to make itself at home and sink its roots deep into the ground before it faces the stress of summer heat, next year. A strong root system means a far more bountiful display of blooms, too.

How to Grow Groundbreaker Hydrangeas

Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are one of the easiest to grow when it comes to essential hydrangea care. These plants need full sun or partial shade, with a minimum of four hours of sunlight a day, and well-drained soil. This is easily achieved in the ground by mixing compost into the soil before planting, either homemade or a product such as R&M Organics Premium Compost, available from Amazon. In a container, use an all-purpose moisture control potting mix such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix, available from Walmart.

While plants will need regular watering while they establish, mature plants will only need irrigating during prolonged dry periods. Plants in containers will need more regular watering.

Most hydrangea care happens in spring. Like all panicle hydrangeas, Groundbreaker blooms on new wood. This means it needs a hard-prune in March – exact timing will depend on your zone but do it before the first buds break. Pruning is simple: all stems should be cut to 8 inches above the ground using a pair of bypass hand pruners such as Fiskars All Steel Bypass Hand Pruners from Lowe's.

Minimal feeding is needed, but a light liquid seaweed fertilizer such as TPS Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon, in early spring can be beneficial. A yearly natural mulch in March will provide all the necessary nutrients and help to keep moisture in the soil and insulate roots from temperature extremes.

Hardy down to -22, Groundbreaker hydrangeas are suitable for zones 5-8, where they don’t need any winter protection. For full groundcover, plant in staggered rows at plant width intervals, or further apart if you want separate mounds.

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Peppers hit an odd stretch in midsummer. The plants look their best right when the strain is heaviest, carrying a full load of fruit while the soil dries out by noon. Plenty of gardens quietly stop setting new pods in July, but the drop in production doesn't turn up until August.

The good news is that growing peppers in July comes down to a short list of jobs rather than a rescue mission. None of them take long. What they share is a focus on steadying the plant instead of pushing it. Even moisture matters more right now than any feeding schedule, and peppers coming off at the right point keeps the plant making more of veggies to eat.

Consistent care in July will set up your pepper plants for a huge harvest and continued healthy growth. Here are the most essential – but easy-to-do – tasks to check off your list before August arrives.

1. Fertilize for Fruit, Not Foliage

(Image credit: VH Studio / Shutterstock)

Nitrogen did what it needed to do in June. By July it starts working against your pepper plant, pushing leafy growth at the expense of flowers and leaving a big handsome pepper bush with very little hanging on it.

Plants already carrying fruit want less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, which is why Lilly Miller Morcrop 5-10-10 tomato and vegetable food from Amazon matches the stage the plants are actually in.

Side-dress plants lightly instead of generously – work roughly a tablespoon per plant into the soil about 6 inches (15 cm) out from the stem, then water fertilizer in. Reapplying every three or four weeks is plenty.

After fertilizing peppers, it takes time for the results to appear. So there's nothing to judge the next morning and a heavy hand in midsummer heat can cause fertilizer burn that are already under pressure.

2. Water Deeply & Consistently

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Blossom end rot in peppers usually isn't from a calcium shortage in the soil. It's actually a delivery failure. The plant can't move calcium into developing fruit when the ground swings from soaked to dust and back to damp after watering.

Water pepper plants deeply two or three times a week. They prefer that over a daily splash. Water plants on roughly the same schedule week after week. If you're unsure, a finger pushed 2 inches (5 cm) into the bed settles the question of whether or not you need to water again. If soil is dry at that depth that means water now.

Wet foliage is what leaf disease waits for, and is part of why a heavy-duty soaker hose from Home Depot beats a sprinkler. Water for 30 to 45 minutes along the row of plants so moisture soaks down at root depth with nothing landing on the plant.

Add mulch to hold in moisture and protect from heat. Use straw or shredded leaves at 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm) deep and the soil quits cooking by mid-afternoon.

3. Protect From Scorching Sun

(Image credit: Tatiana Maksimova / Getty Images)

Pepper flowers don't form or develop into fruit when days climb past 90°F (32C) and nights hang above 75°F (24°C). Pollen turns sterile, the flower drops, and the plant carries on looking perfectly healthy while setting nothing at all. It's a common reason a July pepper plant seems to quit for a few weeks, and the fruit already on board will keep sizing up through it, which hides the problem for a while.

Shade in the 30 to 40 percent range, run from late morning through the worst of the afternoon, can pull leaf temperature down enough to keep pollen viable. A panel of 40% sunblock shade cloth from Walmart hung on hoops or tied off between stakes does the job and comes down once the forecast eases. The plants keep enough light to carry on growing. It's a filter, not a lid.

4. Support Growing Peppers

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Pepper stems are brittle and a branch loaded with fruit tends to split from the main stem during the first hard storm that comes through. That single break can take a third of the harvest with it. A plant that's already leaning has waited too long for support.

Stake pepper plants with supports driven 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm) deep beside the main stem. 4-foot bamboo stakes with garden twine from Amazon are perfect for this job. Tie with a figure-eight so the stem isn't cinched against the stake and leave the tie slack so the trunk can continue to thicken through August. Attach ties loosely at two or three heights to support the whole plant.

5. Pick Early & Often

(Image credit: DUSAN ZIDAR / Shutterstock)

Peppers left to fully ripen on the plant send a signal that the season's work is done, so flowering slows to match. Sweet peppers picked at full size while still green will push the plant to set another round of fruit.

Picking sweet peppers early is fine. A green pepper on the counter is the same pepper it would have been in the garden, just minus a couple weeks of waiting. Harvesting hot peppers is the exception, since capsaicin keeps building as they color up.

Harvest peppers by cutting at the stem with pruners instead of pulling, since a tug can take the branch with the pepper. Check every two or three days once the fruit starts coming.

Pick anything that's split or showing soft spots, even if it's nowhere near ready. Damaged fruit draws common pepper pests and gives the plant no reason to keep working.

Trends come and trends go, and we’re not just talking heel heights and skirt lengths. Today, social media can bounce the popularity of a vehicle, a child’s toy, and even a species of dog in hours, and lots of folks will head out in search of one. And yes, this applies to garden plants as well. Garden trends and flower trends appear in a flash, only to get whisked away when something else blows into the limelight. Remember when manicured landscaping was all the rage? How about living walls?

Hyper-trendy ornamentals are often bred for viral shock value rather than real-world hardiness. When a temperamental trend-plant crisps up in a heatwave or succumbs to summer humidity, you’re left with a patchy border and plenty of disappointment. Chasing novelty requires constant intervention, and relentless fussing. So why not catch your breath and make some room for the plants that resonate beyond the trends – those flowers, perennials and shrubs that are always… just right?

We are here to advocate for the elegance and endurance of the forever classics that effortlessly outlive flash-in-the-pan trends. These timeless garden icons have done the heavy lifting in countless yards for years, and refuse to be categorized or treated as fads. While these “oldies but goodies” might appeal to trend-lovers for their vintage luxury, they are both a practical and a lovely choice for growers in any decade. Offering multi-season beauty, natural weather tolerance, and permanent curb appeal, it’s time to meet the anti-trend plants.

Grow Anti-Trend Forever Plants

For growers who have jobs, kids, friends, relationships, places to go and things to do, there’s a lot to be said for the garden classics. Timeless plants have survived generations of fluctuating weather patterns, shifting soil dynamics, and pests. They often offer deep root systems that cope with short droughts, and reliable flower power that attracts native pollinators year after year. So by stepping off the trend treadmill, you swap high-maintenance anxiety for effortless, multi-seasonal beauty.

Can you plant these classics during the height of summer in July? You bet, provided you give them time to establish. Depending on your growing zone and local climate, midsummer heat means root systems need a little support ahead of autumn. Before planting, check your site’s moisture retention and drainage with the help of a good soil meter tool, like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon.

(Image credit: © Frédéric Collin / Getty Images)

Heavy clay holds excessive water, while overly sandy soils let nutrients wash straight through. A little perlite or coarse sand can help improve drainage, while sprinkling organic matter (such as aged compost) in the planting hole can cushion young roots against thermal shock. After planting, add a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of organic mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from The Home Depot to suppress weeds and regulate temperatures. You’re then ready to meet the lush and lovely plants that have stood the test of time.

1. Old-Fashioned Bleeding Heart

(Image credit: Cyndi Monaghan / Getty Images)

The trending gift for Valentine’s Day is the heart-leaf hoya (H. kerrii), a single, plump green succulent that, over time, develops into a vine of succulent hearts. It’s cute, but it doesn’t have the style or history of an old-fashioned bleeding heart. Ask your grandparents if their childhood garden included these flowers (Lamprocapnos spectabilis, formerly Dicentra spectabilis). This unusual and eye-catching plant was called the finest hardy perennial of the 19th century.

Today, this dainty ornamental is a favorite of the perennial shade garden. It’s easy to grow, blooming profusely in early spring and early summer, with heart-shaped flowers dangling from arching stems. Plant old-fashioned bleeding hearts in a part-shade location in zones 2-9. Pair its soft, weeping silhouette with structured companions like broad-leafed hostas, Japanese painted ferns, or astilbe. You can buy Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart from Nature Hills as live plants.

Plant in partial to full shade, keeping it sheltered from afternoon sun. You can add Down To Earth Organic Crab Meal (4-3-0) from Amazon for a slow-release soil amendment that builds resilience. The flowering season ends when summer warmth rolls in. Cut back the leaves and stems as they wither, and reduce watering as the plant goes dormant, and you will see these enchanting hearts again next year.

2. Oakleaf Hydrangea

(Image credit: Billy_Fam / Getty Images)

Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) is not one of those trending hydrangeas that shoots up in a matter of months or has neon shades, like Let's Dance Rave. Instead, this native deciduous shrub grows slowly, topping out at 4-8 feet (1.2-2.4 m) tall with long-lasting flower clusters. They appear snowy white, fading to antique rose. For extra wow factor, the leaves are shaped like oak leaves. Unlike other hydrangeas which can flop in the heat, the oakleaf is a uniquely tough North American native.

These varieties just need well-draining, acidic, nutrient-rich soil. Water well in June and add a thick layer of mulch to keep the soil moist. An organic feed, such as Espoma Organic Holly-Tone Fertilizer from Walmart, helps to keep foliage lush and healthy. This shrub handles drought and heat far better than trendy mopheads once established in zones 5-9. For the timeless lacey look, try Snowqueen, Snowflake, or Proven Winners Gatsby Glow Ball Oakleaf Hydrangea from Fast Growing Trees.

3. Purple Coneflower

(Image credit: Fasil Tiru / 500px / Getty Images)

I’ve noticed a trend this year for soft pastels. Faded Petal, a blush-gray hue, was named as Garden Media Group’s 2026 Color of the Year. But I say, go for bright purple! Gardeners of old loved purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea) for all the reasons they are considered easy-care perennials today. As species plants, they are hardier than recent hybrids, and give wildlife better access to nectar and seeds. Flowers appear in midsummer and last right through the growing season. They may not be trendy, but they are tough and pretty.

You can buy American Beauties Native Purple Coneflowers from Plant Addicts for large tufty orange cones flanked with bubblegum purple petals. These classic perennials just need a site with direct sun and well-draining soil in zones 3-8. Water well if the weather is dry. A little Down To Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal (3-16-0) from Lowe's can also help forge deep root development for continuous midsummer blooms.If you deadhead early flowers in June, it encourages extra blooms later in summer. Leave some late fall seed heads intact for wintering goldfinches.

4. Common Lilac

(Image credit: Yuliia Kokosha / Getty Images)

Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) has been part of cottage gardens for centuries, so it makes sense that it isn’t considered trendy. Rather, it’s an old-fashioned and long-lived flowering shrub, beloved for its fragrant blooms. The species plant can grow to 16 feet (5m) tall and 12 feet (4m) wide, with soft purple flowers blooming in May. Hardy across USDA zones 3-7, a well-sited lilac bush routinely outlives the gardener who planted it. You can buy Common Purple Lilac from Fast Growing Trees as live plants for a generous, low-maintenance bloomer that butterflies adore.

These shrubs just need 6-hours a day of direct sunshine and loamy, well-draining soil. If it is hot, give them a deep drink from time to time. If you’d like to improve ground conditions, you can buy Wakefield Premium Biochar Soil Conditioner from Lowe's to improve aeration, balance drainage, and prevent nutrient leaching. Just don’t prune late in the summer or fall, or you’ll accidentally be cutting off next spring’s exquisite floral display. Instead, prune within two weeks after blooming finishes.

5. Peony

(Image credit: Svetlana Repnitskaya / Getty Images)

Calling peonies (Paeonia spp.) old-fashioned classics is a bit of an understatement. They are among the oldest species of plants and have been grown in Asian gardens for thousands of years. After the colonists brought the first peonies to America, their popularity grew quickly, and by the early 20th-century, they were adored by many. These days, there’s so much to love about a peony. Producing heavily scented blooms, from silk-like singles to lush, ruffled doubles, they bring unmatched luxury. And the plants belong in your will, since they can live longer than their owners. If you’re stuck for choice, you can’t go wrong with hot pink Paeonia ‘Kansas’ or fluffy mammoth ‘Sarah Bernhardt’, both available from Plant Addicts.

Peony plants require little maintenance, if you plant them in a proper location. They just need at least six hours of sun, shelter from winds, and deep, fertile, moist soil in zones 3-8. Peonies bloom from late spring through early summer. Don’t cut back green foliage right after flowering finishes, but let the leaves stand to gather energy for next year's display. Peony foliage can be susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis blight. Spray a little bio-fungicide, such as Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart, to keep leaves in good shape through fall.

6. Nasturtiums

(Image credit: Outback to Coast / Getty Images)

With succulents trending as easy-care filler plants this year, you aren’t likely to see photos of nasturtium on Instagram. But these old-fashioned classics are as vibrant and long-flowering as they come. My grandmother grew nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) in New Jersey, her grandmother grew them in Poland, and now I grow them in San Francisco and France. This cottage garden classic with its bright bugle blooms, can grow almost without any effort. The seeds are big, they germinate within a week, and they flower through fall. Oh, and they reseed readily in zones 9-11.

For an elegant, classy twist on the conventional (very lovely) tones, there are some lovely heirloom options, such as salmon soaked Vesuvias, available from Eden Brothers as seeds. Or, if you can’t decide on one color, opt for Supernova Mixed Nasturtiums, available from Burpee as seeds, for a rainbow of abundant petals. Nasturtiums delight in poor, lean soils where other ornamentals struggle. Where soils are compacted or heavy clay, just add a few scoops of coarse sand, or Hoffman Western Desert Sand from Walmart, into the planting site.

7. Lavender

(Image credit: Viktoriya Skorikova / Getty Images)

Graceful, understated, instantly identifiable, and effortlessly elegant, lavender (Lavandula) is like the Audrey Hepburn of your yard. It doesn't rely on gimmicks, just structured foliage, silvery stems, and fragrant flower spires that delight the local bees and butterflies. For compact borders, pathway edging, and cold winter hardiness, English lavenders (L. angustifolia) like Hidcote and Munstead are perfect. If you have muggy midsummers, grow lavandins (L. x media) like Phenomenal, which is resistant to winter dieback, root rot, and humidity, while producing oil-rich flower wands that fill the air with scent. Buy Southern Living Phenomenal Lavender from Fast Growing Trees.

Thriving across zones 5-10, this Mediterranean native loves lean soil. Plant it in full, unshaded sun and sharply draining soil. If your ground is heavy clay, mix in some coarse sand. Cut back stems by one-third after blooming to maintain a tight, bushy mound, but avoid cutting into old woody stems. To keep your plants thriving year after year, just sprinkle a small handful of a gentle all--purpose feed like Espoma Organic Plant-Tone Plant Food from Amazon around the base. Pair with coneflower or ornamental grasses for a sunny border that never goes out of style.

Shop Anti-Trend Essentials

(Image credit: Serhii Brovko / Shutterstock)

Selecting resilient, time-tested perennials and shrubs midsummer is just the beginning of an epic love affair that can last a lifetime. And now is a great time to start with these plants. By skipping delicate trend-plants in favor of proven, weather-hardy classics, you can cultivate an inviting, high-end layout that matures beautifully with every passing year. So why not establish your yard's forever style today?

Timeless Trio

Heirloom Luxury

Plant Addicts Pink Sarah Bernhardt Peony

Featuring ruffled, pale-pink double blooms with a sweet scent, this historic peony variety brings vintage luxury to sunny borders. Highly durable in zones 3-8, it grows more breathtaking with each passing decade.

Iconic Structure

Fast-Growing-Trees.com Proven Winners® Gatsby Glow Ball™ Oakleaf Hydrangea

This native shrub features massive green-white flowers that mature to soft pink over oak-like foliage. It delivers exceptional hardiness and multi-season allure in zones 5-9.

Pastel Forager

Eden Brothers Nasturtium Vesuvius Seeds

An elegant twist on traditional orange nasturtiums, 'Vesuvius' offers watercolor salmon-pink blossoms over lily-pad style foliage. Fast-growing, edible, and drought-tolerant, this beauty thrives on neglect across all growing zones.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

You’re moving homes, which means your family and your pets are also packing up and moving along with you. But what about your plants? Many of us consider our plants as part of our extended family, and I am one of them. I tend to rescue plants other people toss out with the garbage. Once you’ve nursed a junked plant back to glorious health, you just can’t leave it behind when you move.

Yet moving plants to a new home can have legal repercussions that you may not see coming. I know, since I’m a plant lover and a lawyer. Part of it depends on where you are moving and part depends on whether the plants are from outside in the garden.

It’s important to understand the legal issues before you move your plants to a new home. I'll walk you through the legality of moving plants to a new home, so you don't get in trouble.

Legal Issues When Moving Plants

You love your plants and can’t help but feel that they love you, too. So it’s natural to want to take them along with you when you move. While container plants are a bit more practical to travel with than those growing in the landscape, you’ll want to take a close look at the laws before packing up any of your plants.

There are two primary types of legal issues around moving with plants. The first (and perhaps easier) challenge involves state and national borders. This issue involves the question: can I take this type of plant into a new state or country? The second issue involves plant ownership. It asks the question: whose plants are they after you sell your house?

(Image credit: Marina Meshcherskaia / Getty Images)Moving Plants Across State Lines

So you pack up the car with your suitcases, your kids, your dog, your cat and your 17 favorite houseplants. If you are headed to another town in the same state, you shouldn’t have any problems – other than squeezing everybody in.

If, however, your move will take you across state or national borders, you may have issues. Even when crossing from one state into another, some plants are forbidden. Moving plants across state lines is governed by the United States Department of Agriculture and state-specific agricultural quarantines.

In general, it is illegal to move plants between states if your plants harbor pests or diseases or have been declared federal noxious weeds, like kudzu and witchweed.

Other restrictions are in place as well, but they vary by destination. These include the prohibition to take any citrus plants into California and Florida to prevent the spread of different citrus diseases.

They also include restrictions on taking any plants that are hosts for the emerald ash borer (largely ash trees) and the Japanese beetles (plants like maple trees, birches, linden trees, roses, flowering crabapples, hibiscus, crape myrtles, and viburnum).

Finally, it is largely prohibited to take any natural soil across state lines. That means that any container plants with soil from the garden in the container cannot be transported legally. Only sterile, soilless potting media is permitted.

Moving plants across international borders is even more fraught legally. For example, if you're moving to Canada, your houseplants must have a Phytosanitary Certificate from the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) and must be bare roots.

Travel into other countries with plants may be even more restricted. The best rule is: know before you go. Call the nearest consulate and ask before trying to move plants into a new home in a different country.

(Image credit: Phynart Studio / Getty Images)Removing Plants From Your Old Yard

Are you sure you are really the owner of that shrub in your old yard? Before you dig it up to take it with you to your new home, make sure you know the rules about plant ownership.

Yes, you planted that hydrangea, that rose bush, or that Meyer lemon tree in the backyard some years back. You bought it at the garden store, dug the hole, planted the roots, and nurtured the plant. Now it’s time to leave and you’re thinking it would look nice in your new home’s garden.

But is it legally yours? If you rented the home you are leaving, it might belong to the landlord. In most states, plants that are attached to the soil by their roots belong to the property owner.

That means that outdoor shrubs permanently planted in the ground are considered legal “fixtures” and belong to the landlord of your old home. Even if a tenant plants the shrubs themselves, they generally cannot remove them when moving out without the landlord's permission

There may be issues even if you owned your old property. If you are moving because you sold the property, ownership of the outdoor plants may have passed to the new owner with the sale of the house.

As a general rule, outdoor shrubs that are planted in the ground belong to the buyer when the sale closes. They are classified as fixtures and automatically transfer with the house. Sellers cannot dig them up unless explicitly stated in the purchase contract that the seller will take ownership of certain plants.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What You Can Do

• Before moving day, figure out what plants you wish to take with you. Do your research to understand whether or not you can take them to your new home.
• Take cuttings from the in-ground plants you particularly love to root and plant at the new home.
• If a particular outdoor shrub is very dear to you, negotiate with your landlord, if you are a tenant, to be able to dig it up and take it with you. If you are selling your home, write in explicit exceptions for the outdoor plants you wish to take.

What You Can't Do

• When crossing borders, never lie to a state or federal agent about the plants you are carrying. This could cause you to be subject to large fines or even to be criminally charged and sent to prison.
• Never dig up outdoor plants if you are not the current owner of the property. Your landlord or the new buyer can charge you with theft and/or sue you for the replacement cost.

Tools to Help You Move Plants

Felco F2 Pruning Shears

Take cuttings of your favorite plants with these pro-approved pruning shears from Felco.

Back to the Roots Organic Perlite

Perlite is a great medium for propagating plant cuttings to prevent root rot and promote good root growth.

Burpee Superseed Windowsill Seed Starting Tray

A reusable planting tray like this one is perfect for planting cuttings and seed starting. Try both methods to bring your favorite plants to your new home.

There's something uniquely annoying about an old tree stump, isn't there? It's too solid to dig out yourself (unless you're feeling particularly dedicated), professional stump grinding isn't cheap, and every time you look at it, it seems to become even more of an eyesore.

If you've searched for ways to get rid of one, you've probably stumbled across every trick in the book. Drill holes and fill it with Epsom salt. Burn it. Cover it with plastic. Grow a new tree from it. Wait for nature to take its course (only another decade or so!).

I should know; I briefly considered all of them when trying to figure out what to do with my own pesky tree stump. Instead of spending hundreds of dollars trying to make the stump disappear, though, I had a thought: why not make it into something I actually wanted to look at?

How I Hid My Tree Stump

Rather than paying through the nose to remove my old tree stump, I decided to embrace it instead... and, no word of a lie, it's since become one of my favorite parts of my garden.

Now, I know that some people transform their old tree stumps into benches, or fairy gardens, or decorative sculptures. Mine wasn't nearly big enough for such grand designs, tragically. Instead, I planted evergreen vines around the base and simply let them do what they do best: climb.

Within a couple of seasons, the stump had almost completely vanished beneath glossy green foliage. And, instead of a dead reminder of the tree that used to be there (RIP, tree; I still miss you), it has become a lush pillar of greenery that looks like it has always belonged.

(Image credit: Akihiro Umehara / Shutterstock)

Now, the unexpected bonus wasn't how good the stump looked; it was who moved in. Every summer, toads make their way beneath the curtain of green leaves, where the old stump stays cool and damp even during hot weather.

I'll occasionally catch one peeking out from underneath the foliage before disappearing back into its shady hideaway. It's not just a toad abode, though; the dense evergreen cover also provides shelter for insects and spiders, while the decaying wood beneath continues to support fungi and countless beneficial organisms.

What was once a dead feature has quietly become a living ecosystem. And, even in the middle of winter, when much of the garden has gone to sleep, the stump stays green, giving the space a little structure and a wonderfully overgrown, Secret Garden feel.

(Image credit: Marina Troynich/Getty Images)

Now, I garden in the UK, where English ivy is easy (and non-problematic) to grow, but there are plenty of alternatives if you're gardening in the US. Something like creeping fig in warmer regions, Virginia creepers (available as bare root plants from CZ Grain Stor) or even a stunning Climbing Hydrangea from Nature Hills if you're happy to wait for it to establish can create a similarly , leafy effect.

If you don't want a permanent climber, annual vines can also disguise a stump for the growing season. Or you could go ultra fancy and try growing your birth month vine over your own personal stumpery.

It should go without saying that there are times when stump removal makes sense. If the stump is diseased, causing safety issues, or sits exactly where you need to build a patio or plant a new tree, removing it is probably the right call.

Shop Vines & Creepers:

Florida Foliage Creeping Fig Vine

CZ Grain Virginia Creeper Bare Root Plant

Brighter Blooms Climbing Hydrangea

If it's simply ugly, though? Well, I think hiding it is often the better solution. After all, professional stump grinding can be surprisingly expensive, especially for larger stumps. Leaving the stump in place means you avoid disturbing the surrounding soil and nearby plant roots, while allowing the wood to decompose naturally over time.

By covering it with evergreen planting instead, you're solving the cosmetic problem without creating waste... and you're adding habitat at the same time.

Truth be told, I originally planted the ivy because I didn't want to pay for stump removal. Now, even if someone offered to remove the stump for free, I wouldn't say yes. And every time I spot a little toad tucked beneath the leaves on a warm afternoon, I'm reminded that the garden seems to agree.

Wilting might be the least useful symptom in the garden. It's how a plant says something is wrong, and that's about as specific as it gets. A tomato that's merely hot and a tomato with fungus clogging its plumbing look identical at three in the afternoon, which is exactly why so many gardeners water the second one until it dies faster.

Then again, gardening in a heat wave means treating a certain amount of afternoon flop as ordinary. Leaves droop because the plant has closed its stomata and quit transpiring until conditions improve, so the sag is a defense, not a distress call. The question worth answering isn't whether a plant wilts. It's whether it comes back.

Start with the Sunset Test

(Image credit: NetPix / Getty Images)

Go back out at dusk, or first thing the next morning, and look at the same plant. Heat stress lets go once the sun is off it. Roots catch up with what the leaves lost, turgor returns, and something that looked finished in the afternoon is standing there come nighttime like nothing happened. That's the entire test, and it costs nothing. Give it a full hour past sundown before drawing any conclusion, since dry soil slows recovery even in a healthy plant.

A plant still slumped at sunrise, after twelve hours of cool air and no sun at all, has a problem that has nothing to do with weather. The in-between case matters too. A plant that bounces back a little less each morning is on a slow slide, and the pattern shows up over three or four days rather than in a single look. Take a photo each morning if the difference is too subtle to hold in your head.

Wilting in Wet Soil Is a Contradiction

(Image credit: jxfzsy / Getty Images)

Soggy ground and a drooping plant should not go together, and when they do, the roots are the story. Root rot organisms – mainly Phytophthora and Pythium species – thrive in saturated soil and destroy the fine feeder roots that do the actual drinking. What's left can't pull water even while sitting in it. The wilt looks like drought because, from the plant's side, it is drought. An XLUX long-probe soil moisture meter from Amazon settles the question in seconds at root depth, where a finger can't reach.

Confirming it means getting your hands dirty. Scrape back the soil at the base and pull a few roots. Healthy roots are firm and pale, and they snap. Rotted roots turn brown or gray, go soft, and the outer layer slides off between your fingers and leaves a bare thread behind. That smell of stagnant pond water is the other giveaway. Container plants sitting in saucers are the usual victims, though heavy clay after a wet stretch does the same job. Peppers and squash collapse within days once it takes hold, while shrubs can carry the damage quietly for a season.

One Branch, One Side, One Piece

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Vascular wilts operate differently, and they're the ones that earn the word sinister. Verticillium dahliae and Fusarium oxysporum live in the soil, enter through the roots, and grow upward inside the xylem – the plumbing itself. The plant fights back by plugging infected vessels with gums and tyloses, and in doing so it seals off the pipes it needs. Water stops moving. The leaves get the message before the rest of the plant does.

Asymmetry is the tell. Heat hits the whole plant at once, while a vascular wilt starts with a single branch and leaves everything around it looking fine for days. Sometimes the split is narrower – half a stem, or one wedge of a leaf going yellow while the rest of it stays green. Yellowing that climbs from the bottom and then stalls halfway counts too. Fusarium tends to move in hot weather and Verticillium in milder spells, though both settle into the soil for years once they arrive. The same bed keeps producing the same sad tomato.

Cut the Stem and Look

There's a diagnostic that beats guessing. Slice through a wilted stem a few inches above the soil line with a hand pruner like this from Home Depot, then look at the cut face. Cream-colored tissue all the way around points back at heat or a watering problem. Brown or tan streaking in the ring just under the bark is vascular disease, and no amount of water fixes that.

Wipe the blades down with 70% isopropyl alcohol (you can get it from Walmart) before touching another plant, since pruners carry these fungi from one stem to the next easily. Neither wilt has a cure once it's in a plant. Pull it, bag it, and keep it out of the compost, then put something unrelated in that spot for a few years – corn, beans, and grasses shrug both of them off. Resistant varieties exist for tomatoes, and the letters on the tag earn their keep here. A “V” stands for Verticillium and an “F” for Fusarium. Until then, the plant tells you which one it is by sundown – every time, for free.

Who doesn’t love the big, colorful blooms of hydrangeas? From rounded mopheads and delicate lacecaps to elegant panicles, their varied flower forms make a striking addition to the garden. Knowing how to dry hydrangea flowers allows you to enjoy their impressive blooms for even longer.

Many gardeners leave the flower heads to dry on the bushes for fall and winter interest, but you can also cut and preserve them to display indoors. Knowing when and how to harvest the blooms is a useful part of hydrangea care, as the timing can affect how well they retain their color and shape.

Learning how to dry hydrangea blooms is actually very easy. Some flowers take better to drying than others, and they can last a long time if you do it right. You can use all types of hydrangeas for drying, but the mopheads and panicles with changing colors turn into the most striking specimens when dry.

(Image credit: Natalia Zhukova / Getty Images)

There are several ways to dry flowers at home, including air-drying, drying them in water, and using silica gel. Each method is relatively simple and produces slightly different results. Follow the instructions below to discover the best way to preserve your hydrangea blooms.

When to Cut Hydrangeas for Drying

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There is a right time and a wrong time to cut hydrangeas for drying. These prolific bloomers look their most spectacular when they are brightly colored at their peak in the garden. But this is not the best time to dry them, as they contain too much moisture. Drying them at this stage will result in wilted, shriveled flowers.

The best time to harvest hydrangeas for drying is later in the season. Aim for about six weeks after the blooms open. The flowers should already feel a little dry and papery. If your flowers don’t seem totally dried out, just give them more time.

Choose a dry day, and harvest flowers later in the day when they are naturally drier.

What You Need

Fiskars 6" Pruning Scissors for Flower Stems

These precision micro-tip pruners are perfect for neatly cutting exactly the stems you want with no mistakes.

Modanu Hanging Drying Rack

This charming drying rack is perfect for hydrangeas and other flowers as well as home-grown herbs and garlic.

Krylon Ultra UV Floral Protectant Spray

Spritz dried flowers with this protectant spray to improve their longevity and minimize color fade.

How to Dry Hydrangeas in Water

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It might seem counterintuitive, but drying hydrangeas in water is the best way to preserve them. Unlike other flowers that degrade in water, hydrangeas hold their shape and color well.

Water-drying hydrangeas takes a little more time than air-drying, but many find that the results are better. Here's how to do it:

1. Timing is critical when drying hydrangeas in water. You must wait till the blooms have been open for several weeks and are beginning to get papery. Many hydrangeas will slowly change colors, from white to dusky pink, for example. It’s when the color change begins that it is ready to undergo the drying process.
2. Cut the blooms in mid to late morning after all the dew has dried from the plant. Pick the best-looking blooms because drying will exacerbate any imperfections. Allow 12 to 18 inches (30–45 cm) for the stems, and cut them at different heights, so the flowers are spaced out as they dry. Cut above a node at a 45-degree angle. Drop the stem in a bucket of water, if desired, while the other boughs are collected.
3. Once inside, strip the leaves from the hydrangea blooms as they don’t dry well. Fill each vase with enough water to cover about two to three inches of the stems. Insert the stems and arrange them so there is ample space between blossoms. They should not touch. Stagger the heights, if needed, to allow sufficient air space.
4. Place the vases where you can enjoy the blooms as they dry, but keep them out of direct sunlight.
5. Allow the water to evaporate and the hydrangeas to dry. It should take two or more weeks. If the water evaporates and the flowers do not feel stiff, add more water and continue to let them dry naturally. When the flowers feel papery and stiff, they are ready for display.

How to Air Dry Hydrangeas

(Image credit: Alamy)

Air-drying hydrangeas is the simplest and quickest method, although the finished blooms may be more fragile and lose more color than those dried in water.

Simply cut the stems to different heights, remove the leaves, and arrange the flowers loosely in a vase without adding water. Avoid crowding the blooms, as good air circulation helps them dry evenly and prevents moisture from becoming trapped between the petals. Place the vase in a cool, dry spot away from direct sunlight, which can bleach the flowers.

Alternatively, tie the stems together in small bunches and hang them upside down to air-dry on a rack, like this wooden adjustable drying rack from Amazon. This can help keep the stems straight, although the flower heads may lose a little more of their natural shape. Depending on the conditions, the hydrangeas should feel dry and papery within one to two weeks.

Using Silica Gel for Drying Hydrangeas​

Silica gel is a good option if you want hydrangea flowers to retain more of their original color and shape. It draws moisture from the petals and supports the flower head as it dries, retaining more color and structure than when air drying. Bear in mind, large hydrangea blooms can use a considerable amount of silica gel, so buy it in bulk, like this Unuast Store 5 lb tub from Amazon.

Here's how to do it:

1. Cut the stems short, remove the leaves, and place a layer of silica gel in the bottom of an airtight container.
2. Set the flower head on top, then carefully pour more silica gel around and over the petals until the bloom is completely covered.
3. Seal the container and leave it undisturbed for several days, checking the flowers according to the product instructions.
4. Once dry, lift the bloom out gently and brush away any remaining crystals with a soft paintbrush.

This method works especially well for individual flower heads intended for arrangements or crafts, although it requires more materials than air- or water-drying. The finished flowers are often very delicate, so handle them with care.

Should I Spray Dry Hydrangea Flowers?

You don’t have to spray hydrangeas after drying them, but doing so will help them last longer. Use a light mist of hairspray to fix the petals and flowers and prevent them from dropping.

Better still, a UV floral preservative, like Krylon UV Floral Protectant Spray, prevents color fading. Your dried blooms won’t last forever, but you can extend their lifespan by doing this.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Can I Dry Hydrangeas in the Microwave?

If you're in a rush, you can dry hydrangeas in the microwave, but it’s not the best method. To do it, place flower heads or individually removed flowers in a microwave-safe container. Heat the container on the lowest setting and check the flowers at 30-second or 60-second intervals.

Ways to Use Dried Hydrangeas

Knowing how to dry a hydrangea flower properly means you can create beautiful displays for fall and winter. A simple and conventional way to use dried hydrangeas is in arrangements in vases, with or without other flowers.

If you use care not to damage them, you can also use dried hydrangeas in other types of displays. Use them in tablescapes or on mantels. Lay them on the surface or around candles. Tie dried flowers to presents. Fill bowls with them to decorate a table.

You can even use hydrangeas in wreaths or garlands. Handle them carefully to avoid damage and to help them last longer.

There really is a special kind of misery that comes from eating ice cream on a warm summer day, only to have a wasp start attacking your hand. Or, you’re setting up the perfect little outdoor table full of cold drinks and your garden is actually looking stunning, only to spend the whole afternoon flinching every time something black and yellow buzzes past your ear.

Wasps have a real talent for ruining a lovely afternoon. Fortunately, trapping them has become significantly easier than most people think. There is no shortage of products that actually work without all the chemicals or bravery needed when you don’t want to get stung. If you prefer to go the DIY route first, we've got a great guide to homemade wasp traps. But if you'd rather just buy something that works right now, here are the best options available.

A note before you buy: Placement matters as much as the trap itself. All of these should be hung at least 20 feet away from where you're sitting, as the goal is to draw wasps toward the trap and away from you, not hang it over the potato salad. Hang them at eye level or slightly above, in areas that seem to draw a lot of wasps, and replace or refresh the bait about every two weeks.

Trap for Wasps, Hornets & Yellow jackets

RESCUE! Rescue! Why Trap for Wasps, Hornets, & Yellowjackets – Hanging Outdoor Trap - 3 Traps

The RESCUE! WHY Trap is the one most pest control professionals grab first, and for good reason. The name stands for Wasps, Hornets, and Yellowjackets, and it catches all three. It targets 19 different species in a single dual-chamber design. The top chamber uses two attractants dissolved in water while the bottom uses a liquid lure on a little cotton pad.

Wasps can enter but can't find their way back out, and die naturally. No poison, no chemicals, no mess, except emptying the chamber when it's full. A 2-week supply of attractant is included, with refills available on Amazon as well. This trap is perfect if you aren’t sure what species you’re dealing with and want to make sure you have all your bases covered.

TrapStik for Wasps, Mud Daubers & Carpenter Bees

RESCUE! Rescue! Visilure® TrapStik for Wasps, Mud Daubers, Carpenter Bees – 2 Pack

Same brand, completely different approach; no liquid, no bait, no smell. The TrapStik uses VisiLure technology, which is a patented combination of colors and patterns that wasps are visually drawn to. After they land to see what’s up, they're stuck on a sticky surface and can't escape.

There are built-in guards to reduce the chance of catching birds or other creatures you’re not trying to target. Hang it near where you have seen a lot of wasps, as unlike other types of traps that lure them from a distance, this one works best if you position it where the problem is.

Glass Wasp Trap

Mysora 2-Piece Glass Wasp Trap Outdoor Hanging Reusable Wasp Traps

If you prefer your wasp traps to look pretty, and in a garden we often do like that, this is the trap for you. It’s made from cobalt blue glass and looks like a decoration rather than a pest control device. It works on the classic principle: fill the bottom with a sugary liquid bait (sugar water, fruit juice, or flat cola all work well), hang it near areas of wasp activity, and the wasps enter and can't get out.

It's chemical-free, reusable, and looks super pretty. It works best for paper wasps and yellowjackets around an outdoor table. Keep it topped up with fresh bait and be sure to empty it often, as it fills up faster than you would think during peak wasp season.

Honeycomb Reusable Wasp Traps

Qualirey 3-Pack Wasp Traps

This is a practical, no-fuss option that covers a ton of ground. The honeycomb design looks fancier than a basic plastic bottle trap and looks quite good in a garden. It has a sealed bottom to prevent leaks, and several entry points to increase the catch rates of wasps who can enter from several directions.

You can fill it with sugar water or fruit juice, hang it wherever wasps tend to hang out, and replace the bait every week or two; simple. It comes in a pack of 3, which is useful for making a perimeter: one near your house, one in the middle of your garden, and one at the far end. This helps keep wasps away from the whole area rather than just one spot.

Paper Wasp Nest Decoys

DECYOOL 6-Pack Paper Wasp Nest Decoy Hanging Wasp Deterrent for Hornets Yellow Jackets

Okay, while it’s technically not a trap, it’s actually a bit more effective than any preventative methods. Wasps can be highly territorial; they won’t even build a nest within 20 feet of an existing one. These paper decoys mimic the look of a paper wasp nest convincingly enough to fool scouts into looking elsewhere. So, basically, you’re tricking the wasps. Hah!

You can hang them from pergolas, tree branches, or fence posts in early spring before wasps start searching for nesting sites, and you will significantly reduce the chances of ending up with a nest anywhere near your outdoor seating area in the first place. A 6-pack gives you enough coverage for a whole property. They're made from paper so you’ll need to keep them dry or replace them every season. However, at this price, that’s barely a concern. You can also combine it with a bait trap to give your garden even better coverage.

Solar Wasp Traps

Jahy2Tech Wasp Traps Outdoor Hanging With Led Light

If you’re always forgetting to turn things on, this solar-powered option is perfect for you. These charge during the day with a small solar panel and use an LED light at night to attract wasps and other flying insects. This means the trap is effective at night, which is perfect for those summer parties that go late into the night.

The 3-funnel design keeps wasps inside, and the ABS construction is weatherproof. Hang them at least 4 feet high for best results. The pack of 4 means you can cover a full garden or spread them between patios and a seating area simultaneously. This is a solid choice if you have a bigger garden where one trap isn’t going to cut it.

The right peony care in July will have a huge impact on how well your plant flowers next year. Now your peony is done flowering for this summer, it gets busy making and storing the energy it needs to grow the next set of glorious blooms. Help your plant with this task, and you’ll be richly rewarded with even more beautiful ruffles of petals next spring.

Once July's glorious show of opulent petals is over, it’s all too easy to forget about your peony plant for the rest of the summer. And without targeted midsummer care, your peony will still flower next year. But, with the right nurturing, you’ll support your plant to grow the biggest, blousiest blooms, ever. The right summer care is especially important this year, as there’s no telling how long this heatwave will last, and heat-stressed plants will prioritise basic survival over another season of bountiful blooms. And why miss this opportunity when giving your peony the care it needs in July is quick and easy?

July peony care isn’t complicated, but these four simple tasks will help your plant through the stress of high summer temperatures, and allow it to focus on storing the fuel it needs for fabulous flowers next year.

1. Prune Spent Flowers to Grow Stronger Roots

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The vast majority of peonies begin to form seeds in leathery pods as soon as flower petals start to fade. This uses lots of energy that could be put towards growing a bigger root system to provide for more abundant flowers next year. So, your first priority when it comes to summer peony care is to snip old blooms off. Use a sharp pair of bypass pruners to deadhead peonies – and do sharpen the blades first if you haven’t for a while, because clean cuts are easier for the plant to heal – to snip off the stem just above the first healthy leaf below the faded flower.

To avoid pests and fungal disease, it’s best to put snipped flowers in the trash rather than letting them drop to the ground.

Intersectional (Itoh) peonies and a few modern hybridized peony cultivars are sterile so don’t produce seeds, but it’s wise to still deadhead these both to keep your plant tidy and avoid disease.

Speedy Sharpener

Corona Tools Handheld Garden Tool Blade Sharpener

Trusted brand

Fiskars SmartFit Steel Bypass Hand Pruner

Sturdy tub

Life Story 17-Gallon Plastic Tub With Handles

2. Clear Dead and Damaged Leaves to Avoid Disease

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Peonies are susceptible to several fungal diseases, which stress the plant. A diseased plant will use up valuable energy fighting the infection, affected leaves won’t be able to photosynthesize, and left untreated, some fungal diseases can even kill it. Fungi are able to lie dormant over winter, too, directly affecting next year’s blooms.

While botrytis blight, often called peony blight and gray mold, usually attacks in spring, you may spot powdery mildew on peonies in summer, with leaves looking like they are dusted with fine white flour. If peony leaf blotch, often called peony measles, went undetected in spring, you may also see this in July, too, when the small red spots will start to merge into dark, irregular patches (pictured above).

Gather up any leaves that have fallen to the ground as well as removing dead or damaged leaves from the plant, and dispose of them in the trash to avoid reinfection. It’s also important to wipe pruners with disinfecting alcohol such as MaxTite 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol from Amazon between cuts. Identifying the peony disease will determine if you need to take any further precautions.

Leave healthy green foliage in place for now as all these leaves act as solar panels through summer and into fall, photosynthesizing to produce energy that will be stored in the plants fleshy tubers, ready to power next year's growth. Wait until the foliage has died after the first frost, before pruning herbaceous peonies in late fall.

3. Water Deeply Once a Week

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Established peonies are relatively drought tolerant, which makes it easy to skip over these plants in your watering round. But if you're wondering how to get bigger peony flowers next year, irrigation is a critical part of your care plan. Right now, the plant is using all that energy it’s making with its leaves to grow a stronger root system but, from next month into fall, it will begin forming microscopic, embryonic buds called ‘eyes’ just below the soil surface. These eyes will lie dormant all winter and, next spring, burst into life, throwing stems upwards with baby flowerbuds already formed.

Think of these summer months post-flowering as bud-planning time, and you’ll understand why keeping your peony hydrated now will lead to a better display of blooms next year.

However, it’s important to water peonies properly, giving your plants a weekly deep soak rather than a daily sprinkling. Irrigating deeply so water penetrates deep into the soil encourages the root system to follow the moisture downwards, making the plant more resilient; daily light watering leads to weaker, surface-level roots. Because peony roots are fleshy tubers, restricting watering to once a week at most ensures the soil doesn’t become waterlogged, when tubers may rot.

Young or recently planted peony plants that haven’t yet grown a strong root system, and peonies in containers, will need watering more often.

Water the soil rather than getting the leaves wet, to reduce the risk of fungal infection.

4. Improve Nutrients and Moisture With a Mulch

(Image credit: Vasil Dimitrov / Getty Images)

The final step of what peonies need in July is a 2-inch layer of mulch laid on the soil surface to help lock moisture in. You can use any natural material such as homemade compost, leftover all-purpose potting soil or a purpose-made mulch. The advantage of using a natural mulch is that nutrients will be washed into the earth to slowly feed the plant, and the organic matter will eventually rot down to improve the soil structure for healthy growth.

Use a bow rake, spreading the mulch with the tines then flipping the rake over to level the mulch with its flat edge.

It’s important not to swamp the centre of the plant with mulch, as a crown that’s buried too deeply won’t flower well, and organic material holding water against stems can lead to rot. Peonies have wide rather than deep root systems so spread the mulch around the plant, keeping it away from the central stems.

Dye-Free

Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch 1.5 Cu Ft

Great rake

Kobalt Fibrelass-Handle Forged Steel Bow Rake

Light to Carry

Back to the Roots Organic Coconut Husk Chip Mulch

The Common Mistake That Could Harm Your Peony in July

It might seem sensible to feed your peony in July, to give the plant more energy to form those all-important roots and eyes, but don’t be tempted. Fertilize your peony now and you won’t be doing the plant any favors.

For a start, peonies are light feeders and the general rule of thumb is not to fertilize this plant unless you have a reason to. While it’s usual – though by no means essential – to feed peony plants in spring, once those beautiful fresh red shoots are around 2-4 inches tall, feeding in late summer can interrupt the plant’s natural cycle. Fuelling new growth at this point in the year may interfere with the plant’s preparations to go into dormancy in fall.

While some folk do fertilize immediately after flowers fade, feeding this late in the summer – even with a lower-nitrogen fertilizer – will encourage the plant to waste energy on new leaves rather than storing it in its tubers, ready for next spring. That extra foliage growth can leave a plant more susceptible to fungal disease once wetter weather arrives, too.

A natural mulch will give your peony all the nutrients it needs, without any extra fertilizer. If you’re at all worried about your peony, or think the plant is showing signs that it’s not getting all the nutrients it needs, then don't fertilize 'just in case'. Instead, test your soil to find out exactly what the problem is, with a lab-based soil test kit such as Sta-Green from Lowe’s.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Peony care in July is all about keeping your plant happy and healthy so it can put all its energy into growing next year's buds and a strong root system to support them. Deadheading, removing damaged leaves, watering deeply and mulching will ensure your peony has everything it needs to flower beautifully next spring. While you'll have to wait a while for the results, the fabulous flowers will be well worth your efforts.

July is the middle of summer and the growing season, when temperatures soar and droughts are possible. You might be very excited by some of the dazzling nursery shrubs showcasing their finest blooms and colors. That’s understandable, but trust me, when it comes to key popular and well-loved specimens, now is far from the ideal time for planting them. Certain shrubs really struggle when transplanted now.

So how do you know which shrubs are off limits, and which are worth a punt? Well, the answer lies in their natural heat tolerance. Shrubs that are heat-sensitive are likely to struggle with summer planting and transplanting. When you drop a sensitive species into baking midsummer earth, it enters a state of high shock, dropping leaves and aborting future flower buds just to stay alive. So what you need are shrubs that are more equipped to thrive in prolonged heat.

By leaning into heat-hardy, summer-resilient options, you can bypass the drama and indulge in some satisfying new shrub acquisitions that are sure to have the neighbors’ tongues wagging. Read on, as I reveal a handful of popular specimens that are best avoided for planting now – plus, those tough and beautiful choices that will establish with minimal fuss, quickly adding vivid dynamics in abundance.

Heat Tolerant Shrubs for July Planting

The heat-hardy shrub alternatives below are all fine for summer planting, as long as you take a few steps before and after you plant. You’ll give them the best chance of establishing well if you minimize transplant stress. This means watering your shrubs deeply and regularly, especially during any dry spells. Keep watering through the growing season to help them develop strong, deep roots. A little afternoon shade is also helpful, even for plants that have good heat tolerance.

Consider your hardiness zone and existing soil conditions before planting. Before digging, check your ground temperature and hydration levels using a good soil diagnostic. A tool like the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon US gives you real-time moisture and temperature readouts at the root zone. Where conditions are especially heavy clay or sand, blend a little organic matter (such as aged compost) into the planting hole to help with moisture retention, drainage, and oxygen flow.

(Image credit: SOE / Shutterstock)

Immediately after planting these heat-loving shrub alternatives, it’s a good idea to spread a 2-to-3-inch (5-8 cm) layer of organic mulch around the shrub. Our team loves Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from The Home Depot as a way to preserve water levels and lower temperatures. If you don’t have a commercial mulch to hand, try a homemade blend of shredded hardwood bark and composted leaf mold (just make sure the mulch doesn’t touch the main stem).

Plant during an early morning or a cloudy evening, and your lovely shrub alternatives should flourish. So, with the soil suitably prepped, let's look at the key shrubs you should avoid planting in summer, along with my recommendations for gorgeous alternatives.

1. Bigleaf Hydrangea – Plant Panicle Hydrangea

(Image credit: OlesyaBasova / Getty Images)

Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla) is well loved for its abundance of flower clusters in shades from brightest pink to periwinkle blue. However, planting one in July is a mistake, as they are sensitive to heat. Even established plants can wilt and struggle now. Bigleafs have massive, thin leaves, which evaporate quickly in July. If you do fancy planting a hydrangea now, try a panicle variety (H. paniculata), which is more heat-tolerant. Panicles bloom with cones that transition from green to white to pink to rust in tone. They thrive in full sun and tolerate drier conditions than their bigleaf cousins, with tougher foliage and woody stems in zones 3-9.

(Image credit: Ken Welsh / Alamy)

Striking panicle hydrangea varieties include Limelight or compact Little Lime erupt into giant, conical flower heads starting in mid-to-late summer, and transitioning to deeper tones that hold structural interest through winter. For a charming, dual-toned panicle that works well in a range of soil types, try Vanilla Strawberry Panicle Hydrangea from Fast Growing Trees. Topdress the base immediately at planting time with some Dr. Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Walmart. This helps to gently supply the nutrients required to nurture roots as they establish.

2. Rhododendron – Plant Mountain Laurel

(Image credit: Magicflute002 / Getty Images)

Rhododendrons (Rhododendron spp.) come in many forms, including native species, but none tolerates too much midsummer heat. They thrive in shady, cool areas with plenty of moisture, and reward you with an abundance of spring flowers and leathery leaves. Plant them now, and they’ll struggle to stay hydrated and get established. For a similar (yet tougher) native shrub with leathery, evergreen leaves and spring flowers, try mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia). Prized for its star-burst blooms, mountain laurel brings vivid structural intensity to partially shady spots.

(Image credit: C.Male / Alamy)

There are some gorgeous mountain laurel options available from Plant Addicts, including vibrant Kaleidoscope Mountain Laurel and voluminous Yankee Doodle. Give it plenty of water as it gets established in July to ensure success in zones 4-9. Ensure the soil is highly acidic, loose, and rich in organic matter. For a gentle acidic lift at the time of planting, mix a generous helping of Espoma Organic Holly-Tone Fertilizer from Amazon into your planting site. This safely lowers soil pH and provides a steady boost to promote robust buds for the following spring.

3. Japanese Maple – Plant Ninebark

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) can be grown as a shrub or small tree. It’s prized for its delicate, feathery leaves, which offer a rainbow of fall colors. The heat can be a problem, though. The fine leaves dry and scorch easily, and the thin roots will struggle to develop in dry, hot soil. They can make it through a hot summer, but it’s not the best time to plant them. A better option is native ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius), with ornamental value in the form of peeling bark. Certain varieties also offer rich fall color and seed pods for birds. Try First Editions Ninebark Amber Jubilee and Proven Winners Ninebark Tiny Wine from Nature Hills.

(Image credit: Feifei Cui Paoluzzo / Getty Images)

Ninebark is far more tolerant of summer heat and drought, and it’s not too picky about soil type. Hardier in zones 3-8, they just require full-sun to maintain their rich foliage colors. They are highly adaptable to poor, rocky soils where other shrubs fail. To help their root systems establish quickly in dry spells, apply a drench of GS Plant Foods Organic Concentrated Liquid Kelp from Walmart right after planting. This liquid seaweed formula delivers a soaking of trace minerals which reduce the risk of heat stress, keeping this shrub’s tones going strong.

4. Boxwood – Plant Inkberry Holly

(Image credit: Diane Labombarbe / Getty Images)

Boxwood (Buxus spp.) is a garden favorite. Its dense evergreen growth can be shaped into low borders, hedges, and topiaries. Unfortunately, the shallow roots of transplanted boxwood make it vulnerable to heat and drought stress in July. Midsummer planting also invites boxwood blight and spider mites. For a stronger alternative, try inkberry holly (Ilex glabra), which thrives in zones 5-9. This native evergreen has a similar dense growth and smooth leaves. A great option for low hedges or containers is the Proven Winners Gem Box Inkberry Holly from Walmart.

(Image credit: Alamy)

Inkberry won’t tolerate drought very well, but it can handle heat and humidity better than boxwood. Plant it somewhere that holds some moisture in the soil. Varieties like 'Strongbox' or 'Gem Box' stay tight, compact, and mounded. As well as handling sun and partial shade, these shrubs love slightly acidic soil. To build excellent soil texture and maximize water retention, add some Worm Bliss Premium Earthworm Castings from Amazon into the planting hole for a gentle, non-burning nutrient foundation.

5. Japanese Pieris – Plant Summersweet

(Image credit: Ali Majdfar / Getty Images)

Japanese pieris (P. japonica) is an evergreen shrub with year-round beauty, including glossy, sometimes bi-colored leaves and cascading spring flowers. However, this shrub is tested in hot conditions, as the root system is shallow and high heat can scorch the leaves. Planted in July, it frequently succumbs to lace bug attacks and leaf drop. It’s best to plant this shrub in spring. For a compelling native alternative, summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) is hardy in zones 3-9. Although it is deciduous, it has a similar look to Japanese pieris, also with white flowers that attract pollinators.

(Image credit: Aimintang / Getty Images)

Cultivars like Ruby Spice or Hummingbird produce vertical flower spikes from July through August, filling the yard with a heavy fragrance. For wine-soaked flowering spires, try Clethra Ruby Spice Live Plants from Wayside Gardens. Summersweet blooms reliably even in shade, making it a perfect choice for gloomier corners. Because sticky summer humidity can breed foliar issues on transplants, you might find it helps to keep some Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart handy. Apply as a foliar spray to keep leaves protected against powdery mildew.

Shop Summer Shrub Heroes

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Indulging in some new shrub appreciation in summer doesn’t have to mean endless hours of stressful plant care. By picking natives and weather-resilient varieties that shrug off humidity, drought and intense sun, you can fill your borders, pathsides and porchways with immediate color that often leads to dazzling multi-seasonal interest. These curated selections establish quickly in warm soil, providing lush foliage and gorgeous blooms that keep your garden looking lush and pretty through fall.

Summer Shrub Trio

Fragrant Spires

Plant Addicts Ruby Spice Summersweet

Adding a splash of wine-soaked richness and an unforgettable perfume to your yard, summersweet really lives up to its name. It develops lovely rose-pink bottlebrush spikes through late summer, it’s resilient in shaded spots, and it attracts a host of pollinators while keeping borders vibrant.

Dual-Toned Drama

Fast-Growing-Trees.com Vanilla Strawberry Panicle Hydrangea

This panicle variety is like an ornamental milkshake, producing massive flower heads that emerge white before turning raspberry-pink. Adaptable across a range of soil conditions and growing zones, this hydrangea delivers dramatic color shifts with minimal care.

Star Spangled

Plant Addicts Kaleidoscope Mountain Laurel

If you want an evergreen option that can take a break from uniform green, this eye-catching mountain laurel showcases intricate, star-burst blooms of crimson and pale pink. It thrives in partial shade, and its leathery foliage stays sharp and polished all year long.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Lawns are both thirsty and needy - and that means big water bills and intensive maintenance for homeowners. Even those who love the golf-course look of green expanses of turf grass are considering switching them out for something easier and more ecological.

Rockeries have both charm and low-maintenance appeal. Creating a modern, water-wise rock garden that includes hardy ornamental grasses solves so many turfgrass problems while offering a delightful and dramatic landscape. These river rocks from Amazon are a great base to build around.

(Image credit: Welcomia/Getty Images)The (Many) Problems with Turfgrass

(Image credit: Bilal photos / Getty Images)

I live by a golf course and often walk my dog there early in the morning, before the golfers arrive. But though there are no golfers, I am never alone. Maintenance people seem to be on duty every morning, turning on sprinklers, applying fertilizer, cutting the grass, filling holes with soil and grass seed, and raking.

This is awaiting any homeowner who buys a home with a lawn or decides to install one. Lawns need water to stay lush and green – and what’s the use of having a lawn if it isn’t lush and green? Lawns need fertilizer and pesticides. Lawns need regular haircuts. Lawns take up all the space and these monocultures are ecologically barren, neither providing food or native habitats for local pollinators, birds, or insects.

The (Many) Benefits of a Rockery

(Image credit: Galina Sandalova / Getty Images)

A rockery or rock garden is a form of xeriscaping, an increasingly popular landscaping method that dramatically reduces the need for supplemental irrigation. Using drought-tolerant plants and moisture-retaining mulch, it can lower outdoor water use by 50 percent or more while requiring significantly less maintenance.

If you create a water-wise rockery and install hardy ornamental grasses, your landscape will suddenly be the talk of the neighborhood. Instead of the square plot of green carpet, you’ll boast a low maintenance landscape with incredible visual appeal. The architectural shapes of the stones contrast with the soft, flowing foliage to add texture, fluidity, and visual drama.

How to Transition a Patch of Lawn into a Rock Garden1. Check for and Obtain Any Necessary Permits

(Image credit: Maskot / Getty Images)

Does your city or water agency require you to apply for permission to begin digging up your yard? That depends on where you live. Call your city government and find out what you need. It’s important to have it in hand before you pick up the shovel. While you have the phone in hand, ask about possible rebates. In California, many city water companies offer impressive rebates to those who swap out their lawns

2. Remove the Turfgrass

(Image credit: Nata Dietrich / Getty Images)

You will need to get rid of the existing turfgrass before putting in a rock garden. Otherwise it will sprout through and into your rockery. The easiest way to remove a lawn is to smother it. All you need is ample amounts of cardboard or newspaper to get started.

Spread it around covering the turfgrass, then wet it down thoroughly. Cover the wet paper with soil, then leave it alone for two months. The turf grass will die. At that point, remove the soil and the cardboard or newspaper, and use a sod cutter or a spade to completely remove the dead grass.

3. Outline the Borders

(Image credit: TG23/Getty Images)

You will have figured out the size and shape of your rock garden before you started the project. Now is the time to create a clean border. This will outline the rock garden and keep the rocks where they belong.

Here’s how to proceed: dig a trench around the perimeter. It doesn’t have to be huge, just large enough to install rigid landscape edging. You could use metal edging, plastic edging or stone edging.

4. Select and Plant the Ornamental Grasses

(Image credit: AVERAR)

Choose two or three different types of ornamental grasses. Pick those suited for rock gardens, like blue fescue (Festuca glauca), Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra), or blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens). Other possibilities include feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) or little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) that thrive in rocky, well-draining soil.

Buy plants at the garden store, then dig holes twice as deep and wide as the nursery pot. Place the plants in the holes and backfill with soil.

Pink Muhly Grass

Adagio Maiden Grass

Porcupine Grass

5. Place the Rocks

(Image credit: beekeepx / Getty Images)

You’ll need some large boulders and many smaller rocks. The largest are also your "feature rocks," and you’ll want to place them first. Bury the bottom third of each feature rock into the ground. That makes the area look natural.

6. Add Irrigation

(Image credit: Maxvis)

Your best bet is to install low-flow drip irrigation. This is how you will provide the minimal irrigation required by your ornamental grasses.

7. Cover the Soil with Landscape Fabric

(Image credit: cjp / Getty Images)

Unroll heavy-duty, commercial-grade landscaping fabric over the bare soil. This will keep down all weed growth. Cut X shapes into the fabric where grasses are installed, then fold by the fabric around the base of the grasses. Spread a layer of decorative gravel or crushed stone across the fabric.

Shop Rock Garden Essentials

Heavy Duty Landscape Fabric

Drip Irrigation System Kit

40 lbs Grey Pea Gravel

Pamela Anderson has given us plenty of garden inspiration over the years, but her latest Instagram video might just be her most enviable yet.

Yes, the talented actor recently shared a glimpse inside her sprawling kitchen garden, and it feels like stepping into a storybook. Rustic raised beds stretch across the landscape, rustic willow obelisks twist skywards between overflowing vegetables and flowers, and a squash-covered archway leads visitors deeper into the space.

Towering sunflowers sway alongside fluffy pink roses (a Pamela staple), while a charming tabletop greenhouse anchors a seating area tucked into the middle of it all. And it is... well, it is all impossibly beautiful, quite honestly. Not that I'm jealous or anything.

Pamela Anderson's Raised Beds Set-Up

At first glance, Pamela Anderson's garden looks impossibly luxurious, and impossibly expensive. But once you look beyond the mature planting, it's surprisingly clear that much of the magic comes from repeating a handful of simple design ideas.

Check it out:

A post shared by Pamela Anderson (@pamelaanderson)

A photo posted by on

You see what I mean? And so, whether you're starting with a single raised bed or planning an entire kitchen garden, these are the ideas worth borrowing from the screen icon turned gardener extraordinaire:

1. Layer Raised Beds for a Lush Look

The first thing you'll notice in Pamela Anderson's garden is the sheer number of raised beds (why have one when you can have, say, twenty or so?). Pamela mixes beds of different sizes and heights, creating a garden that feels layered, established, and full of movement.

Better still, each bed blends vegetables and ornamentals together. Lavender grows alongside onions, nasturtiums spill over the edges, and flowering plants soften every hard line, making the vegetable garden feel every bit as beautiful as a flower border.

If you're recreating the look, choose simple wooden raised beds in a light, natural finish and repeat the same style throughout your space. Even adding two or three beds instead of one instantly creates a more intentional, cottage-inspired layout.

Shop Raised Beds:

Luxe Wooden Vibes

Patiomore Wooden Raised Garden Bed

Divided into two growing areas , this is fab for mixing vegetables and flowers alike.

Durable Space Saver

SnugNiture Snugniture 2 Pcs Oval Metal Raised Garden Bed

For a compact metal option that won’t rust or bow, this SnugNiture bed is a total steal.

Go Big Or Go Home

Yaheetech Wooden Raised Garden Bed

Made from solid wood without paint for long-lasting use, these beds are easy to set up.

2. Grow Squash Over a DIY Archway

(Image credit: Laura Walters / Future)

One of the most eye-catching features of Pamela Anderson's garden is the squash-covered archway winding through the beds.

While it looks like something from a grand estate, the structure itself is surprisingly easy to recreate, especially if you follow our how-to guide for building a cattle panel trellis, which uses inexpensive cattle panels bent into an arch and secured with T-posts to create a sturdy trellis for climbing crops.

Once squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, or pole beans begin scrambling overhead, the metal all but disappears beneath the foliage, creating a living tunnel that's as practical as it is beautiful. Win!

3. Add Sculptural Trellises Throughout the Garden

Okay, fine; Pamela Anderson's beautiful spiral obelisks appear to be handcrafted from willow, but you don't need to shell out for bespoke garden structures to achieve the same effect.

Sculptural trellises instantly add height and visual interest, even before climbing plants begin to grow (and you'd best believe that sweet peas, pole beans, clematis, and flowering vines all create the same whimsical cottage garden feel over time).

Shop Structural Trellis:

LUOzoyuans Spiral Iron Climbing Trellis

When you are not using these folding plant support cages, you can collapse them into very small disc and stash them away!

MELCHEF Expandable Teepee Wicker Plant Trellis

Wicker trellis can easily blend into its natural surroundings, letting your plants become the stars of your garden.

Unbranded Metal Obelisk Trellis 49.5 X 12 Inch for Climbing Plants Roses and Vines

How pretty is this elegant three-layer sphere design? This sleek obelisk is a great way to add extra impact to your set-up.

Repeating several of the same trellis designs throughout your raised beds also helps unify the space while drawing the eye upward., in true Pamela Anderson style!

4. Plant Roses Among Your Vegetables

(Image credit: flashbacknyc/Getty Images)

Pamela Anderson's love of roses is well documented, and they're a big part of what makes her garden feel so romantic.

Instead of keeping roses in a dedicated border, she allows them to mingle with vegetables and other flowering plants, blurring the line between ornamental and edible gardening.

Bare-root roses are one of the most affordable ways to establish new plants, and they'll reward you with years of blooms. If you're hoping to channel Pamela's style, a lush, old-fashioned variety like the Yves Piaget rose (available at Grace Rose) is a beautiful place to start. Mind you, the Reminiscent® Pink Rose from Nature Hills also boasts abundant lush pink blooms with powerful old-fashioned fragrance from late spring through early fall, so the choice is yours!

5. Use a Mini Greenhouse as a Garden Focal Point

One detail that's easy to overlook is the mini greenhouse nestled in the seating area at the center of Pamela Anderson's garden.

Rather than ending with rows of vegetables, Pamela creates a place to pause with a simple table and chairs, but she makes it even more inviting with a glass mini greenhouse, which doubles as a decorative focal point and a practical place to display seedlings, houseplants, or treasured cuttings.

Adding one to a seating area is a great way to make the space feel collected, cozy, and lived in. You can make it yourself easily enough, or treat yourself to one of our favorites below...

Shop Mini Greenhouses:

Unbranded Glass Terrarium

This glass terrarium has a brass tray with four little wheels, easy to move anywhere you like.

IKEA ÅkerbÄr Greenhouse

This white greenhouse from IKEA is ideal for small plants and herbs, indoors or outdoors. 

YIMORENCE V Glass Terrarium Planter

This glass greenhouse terrarium is great for raising succulent, moss, fern, cacti, or even the odd Venus fly trap.

6. Mix Flowers and Vegetables with Abandon

(Image credit: Mujie / Getty Images)

Perhaps the biggest takeaway from Pamela Anderson's garden isn't something you can buy at all.

Sunflowers tower over vegetables, nasturtiums tumble across pathways, herbs soften the edges of raised beds, and roses bloom alongside crops. Nothing feels rigid or overly planned, yet the entire garden feels cohesive, and I guess that's the real secret behind the cottage garden aesthetic. Instead of separating flowers from vegetables, let them grow together.

Organo Republic 20 Edible Flower Seeds Variety Pack

From borage to chives, nasturtiums to sunflowers, thus bumper seed pack contains 20 different types of edible flowers.

Not only will your garden look fuller and more romantic, but many flowering plants (hey there, marigolds) also attract pollinators and beneficial insects, making them just as useful as they are beautiful.

It is my suspicion that the real reason Pamela Anderson's garden is so captivating isn because she has spent as much time thinking about the atmosphere as she has planting schemes and the rest of it.

Think about it: from the overflowing raised beds, to the winding structures, to the feeling that every corner has something new to discover, it all combines to create a space that feels both productive and magical.

The good news is that none of those ideas require a celebrity-sized budget. Start with a couple of raised beds, add vertical interest with arches and trellises, weave flowers between your vegetables, and create a quiet spot to sit back and enjoy it all. Before long, you'll have a garden that captures the same storybook charm as Pamela Anderson's. No sprawling estate required.

A lopper like the Felco 211-60 could be an even better option than the best pruners for some gardeners. This is especially true for folks who have lots of trees to keep in perfect shape.

If you know how to prune a tree, you’ll be aware that some branches are too thick or too tough to cut with an ordinary pair of pruning shears. With their larger blades and two-handed operation, loppers can provide that extra cutting power, when you need it. They are on the pricier side, but you can sometimes find Felco 211-60 loppers on sale at Amazon.

The Felco 211-60 is a top-notch model of lopper made by Swiss brand Felco, which has been manufacturing gardening shears of various types since 1945. Measuring 23.6in, the 211-60 tool gives you a lot of leverage – as well as extended reach – to cut through fairly thick tree branches. It promises 40% greater cutting power, compared to the Felco 200 and 210 series loppers.

Bundled in with the Felco 211-60 comes one small, but very important, accessory: an adjustment key. This key can be used to take the lopper apart, or put its parts back together again. With the 211-60 (and many other Felco cutting tools), it’s recommended to dismantle the tool frequently for cleaning, sharpening of the blades, and replacing worn out parts. You can buy replacements for almost all of the 211-60’s components, so you can keep the lopper in great condition for many years, without ever needing to send it for repairs.

Do bear in mind that this is a lopper, which means the tool is designed mainly for cutting thick tree branches. A smaller (and sometimes sharper) type of pruning tool such as a pair of pruning shears will usually be more appropriate for delicate pruning tasks – especially pruning soft plant stems. If you’re in need of a high-quality, specialized tool for tree pruning, the 211-60 could be a perfect solution.

To find out how the 211-60 compared to rival pruners and loppers, we put the tool through its paces in a hands-on testing process at our reviewer’s home. Read on to find out whether the Felco 211-60 really is the top of the loppers.

Powerful Pruners

FELCO Felco 211-60 Pruners

Don't throw away the 211-60's instruction booklet: the tool's adjustment key is inside. (Image credit: Pete Wise)Felco 211-60 Lopper: At a Glance

Swiss tool-maker Felco is legendary, in green-thumbed circles, for its finely crafted cutting tools. Pruning shears, in particular, are Felco’s specialty – but the brand makes some very good loppers, too.

The Felco 211-60 is a 23.6in pair of loppers which takes part of its name from its length, this being a European tool measuring 60cm. With a 1.4in cutting capacity, the 211-60 can cut larger branches than any one-handed pruner we’ve tested, while its two-handed operation, sharp blades and long handles generate a high level of cutting force.

You can purchase the Felco 211-60 online from retailers such as Amazon, at prices in the region of $70-100. That may seem like a big spend, but when you consider this tool’s ease of maintenance (and the availability of spare parts), the Felco 211-60 starts to look like a good-value long-term purchase.

Felco 211-60 Lopper: Key SpecsThe specs of our Felco 211-60 Lopper review unit

Type:

Lopper

Cutting capacity:

1.4in

Blade material:

Hardened steel

Grip:

Two-handed

Accessories:

Adjustment key

Felco 211-60 Lopper: Performance

During our hands-on testing, the Felco 211-60 never failed to cut through the branches of our reviewer’s trees (which are a mix of hard-wooded crabapple and pear trees). The blades made their way through the wood within a few seconds or less, even when we were dealing with branches over 1-inch thick.

Pete WisePete Wise

This being a lopper, not a pruner, a big part of its appeal is in the two-handed design, which should enable powerful, user-friendly cutting. On this front, the 211-60 delivers. The handles are comfortable and lightweight, thanks respectively to their ergonomic grips and aluminum construction. However, cutting large branches with the 211-60 did prove to be more strenuous than cutting similar branches with super-sharp Felco pruning shears, such as the Felco 6 Bypass Pruner.

The cutting blades of the Felco 211-60 Lopper, opened against a backdrop of grass. (Image credit: Pete Wise)

We really appreciated the shock absorbers on the insides of the 211-60’s handles. Located just below the cutting blades of the loppers, this feature reduces the level of vibration that reaches your hands and arms, which can make a big difference during extensive pruning.

To preserve the 211-60’s optimum performance, it’s recommended to oil the blades frequently. It’s also advised to take the tool apart and sharpen the blades from time-to-time. We were sure to carefully clean the blades after each use, to preserve the their good condition. Thanks to the bundled-in adjustment key, it was simple to disassemble and then reassemble the lopper. With that said, some users who don’t feel confident in taking it apart may feel reluctant to carry out this chore.

Our reviewer, cleaning the blades of the Felco 211-60 Lopper using a paper towel. (Image credit: Pete Wise)Felco 211-60 Lopper: Should You Buy?Felco 211-60 Lopper Score Card

Attribute

Notes

Rating

Price & availability

The tool has a high price point, but offers great long-term value.

4/5

Design

Superb lopper design, with powerful blades and lightweight handles.

4/5

Performance

Cuts a wide range of branches effectively, but requires some effort.

4/5

Buy it if...

Your trees have tough, thick branches.

The Felco 211-60 is capable of cutting very tough branches up to 1.4in thick. That’s a significantly greater cutting capacity than the average pruning shears.

Quality matters to you

This is a superbly constructed lopper that’s built to last. We were particularly impressed with the aluminum handles, which are tough yet lightweight.

Using a bit of muscle is okay with you

When you’re lopping with a manual tool like the Felco 211-60, you’ll use a bit more strength than you’d expend while using a power lopper.

Don't buy it if...

Tool maintenance is not your bag

It’s strongly recommended to take the Felco 211-60 apart regularly, so that you can clean and oil the blades, or replace parts. This won’t suit every user.

You need to cut branches over 1.4" thick

Loppers are limited to a certain cutting capacity, due to the design of their jaws. To cut the thickest of tree branches, you’ll need to use an alternative type of tool such as a pruning saw.

Funds are tight

While the Felco 211-60 offers very good long-term value, you can get a perfectly effective pruning tool at a much lower price.

How Does It Compare?

For cutting fairly thick tree branches, with a diameter somewhere around 1in to 1.4in, you’re unlikely to find a more effective lopper than the Felco 211-60. However, some of our other top-rated pruning tools might be a better fit for certain users.

Costing a fraction of the price of the 211-60, and featuring a simple, one-handed design, the Wolf-Garten Anvil Pruner RSEN from Amazon is an easy-going option that gives you much of the wood-pruning power of the 211-60 – although it doesn’t offer anything like the same reach or leverage.

If you have lots of thick tree limbs to cut, with diameters greater than the 211-60’s 1.4" limit, then you might want to consider using a different type of tool, known as a pruning saw. One very good example is the Greenworks 24V 6" Pruning Saw from Amazon, which is essentially a mini chainsaw that’s purpose-made for tree surgery.

How We Tested the Felco 211-60 Lopper

We tested the Felco 211-60 Lopper by using the tool to prune a variety of tree branches in our reviewer’s yard – from spindly twigs to tough branches over 1in thick. The trees used in testing were a mixture of pear trees and crabapple trees, both of which have hard wood that proves difficult to prune for some cutting tools. We also tested the 211-60’s ease-of-maintenance, by disassembling it and cleaning the blades.

It’s a common myth that growing vegetables requires a lot of time, effort, expensive tools and even a greenhouse. Of course, it's perfectly possible to raise a garden of fussy veggies that need daily care, but there is a far easier way to grow your own: choose low-maintenance vegetable varieties that flourish even if you miss a day or two of care. Whether you're a beginner gardener or just short on time, selecting easy, speedy vegetables to grow will bring you tasty harvests in return for very little effort.

We're very familiar with ornamental plants that practically grow themselves, but vegetables? No plants can be completely neglected when you're growing vegetables, but some are far more forgiving than others. One of the most time-consuming chores is watering, and while all veggies need water, some types and varieties are naturally better at coping with hot weather, dry spells, and those days when you just don’t have the time – or will – to water.

These are fast-growing, heat-tolerant vegetables so can all be sown in July. The warm soil in summer will help seeds germinate quickly, so plants produce a good harvest before the growing season ends. That makes these vegetables a great choice for children to grow, too – or if you simply want to experience the childlike joy of an uncomplicated homegrown harvest. Here's our pick of easy-going veggies you can still sow in July.

(Image credit: Getty Images)1. Zucchini 'Black Beauty'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Zucchini is a classic summer veggie, known for its abundant production and mild, versatile flavor. ‘Black Beauty’ is one of the most dependable cultivars and, even in hot, dry weather, it still produces heavily. The large leaves shade the soil, keeping it a little cooler and helping retain moisture, enabling the plant to bounce back after a missed watering or two.

Ideal for zones 3 through 10, zucchini ‘Black Beauty’ seeds are available from Burpee. And it couldn't be easier to grow Black Beauty zucchinis. Sow seeds in soil in full sun, and make sure there is plenty of space between plants – while this variety only reaches a foot high, it can spread 5-7 feet (though this stem growth doesn't need to be over soil). Water deeply once or twice a week and your zucchinis should be ready to harvest about 50 days after sowing seeds, making this one of the best vegetables to sow in July. Harvest regularly while the fruit are still small (6-8 inches) for the best flavor.

2. Cucumber 'Armenian Dark Green'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

‘Dark Green’ produces long, crisp cucumbers with no hint of bitterness. This is an excellent variety for a salad and for slicing to eat raw with dips, and is suitable for zones 2 through 10. The plants thrive in the heat of mid and late summer and grow readily and easily without too much intervention from you. The root system runs deep, so occasionally missing a watering won’t phase this cultivar.

Armenian Dark Green Cucumber seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Make sure you sow seeds in a spot with full sun and, if possible, provide a support for the vine to climb. While you can grow cucumbers along the ground, a trellis or fence keeps fruits out of the dirt and saves space. Water as consistently as possible and harvest the cucumbers when they are between 12 and 18 inches long, about 65 days after sowing the seeds.

3. Bush Beans 'Contender'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Growing bush beans is straightforward, and 'Contender' is a particularly forgiving variety as it will tolerate some dry periods. Forgetting to water this plant might slow production of tender, stringless bean pods, but it won't stop it altogether. ‘Contender’ is appropriate for zones 3 through 9.

Contender Bush Bean seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Direct-sow seeds for this bush bean in full sun, in the ground or a large container. Water regularly, but don’t worry if you do so imperfectly. Compared to other types, this variety continues to thrive in hot weather, and the beans should be ready in about 50 days after sowing. Harvest beans regularly to encourage more production.

4. Carrot 'Red Cored Chantenay'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When you're considering vegetables to sow in summer, don't discount carrots. 'Red Cored Chantenay' develops shorter roots than other cultivars, which makes it easier for new or time-pushed gardeners to get a good harvest, as the short length means they are less likely to turn out misshapen. This variety also has tops that tolerate heat well. An heirloom carrot variety, it has a sweet flavor and is great for eating raw and for cooking.

Red Cored Chantenay Carrot Seeds are available from Walmart. To grow carrots, sow seeds in place, either in the ground. Because of its shorter roots, this is also one of the best veggies to grow in containers for a productive kitchen garden on your patio. Suitable for zones 3 through 10, ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ does best in full sun or some dappled shade and with soil that stays consistently moist, especially in the seedling stage. While you’ll still enjoy a good harvest even with a little neglect, the best carrots develop with regular and consistent watering.

5. Okra 'Clemson Spineless'

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Okra is an unsung hero of the garden, but if you learn how to cook this tasty veggie, you’ll benefit from a fast-growing plant that’s easy for beginners and busy gardeners to grow. The flowers are so pretty, too, and because the fruit pods grow vertically upwards, this is an attractive plant to have in your garden. It's a heat-lover, too, so this is one of the best vegetables to start from seed in July.

Even among other heat-loving okra varieties, ‘Clemson Spineless’ is extremely drought and heat-tolerant, thriving even if you neglect it a little or if the weather becomes unseasonably hot and dry. Clemson Spineless Okra seeds are available from Botanical Interests. Sow these okra seeds in a spot with full sun and water as regularly as possible. Grow okra and within 30 to 60 days, you’ll have tender young okra fruits to harvest. Okra is suitable to grow in zones 2 to 10, but hotter weather is best.

6. Pole Beans 'Rattlesnake'

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Pole beans differ from bush beans in that they grow on a vine, and ‘Rattlesnake’ is a colorful variety of pole bean with pods striped in green and purple. Suitable for zones 4 through 10, this cultivar grows quickly, so you still have time for a good harvest this year.

It also forgives inconsistent watering better than other varieties, still providing a heavy yield, and Rattlesnake Pole Bean seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Sow seeds in full sun next to a support the vine can climb like a trellis, arbor, fence, or even patio banister. While it appreciates regular moisture, this pole bean will bounce back after short dry spells.

7. Black-Eyed Cowpeas

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Cowpeas are easy to grow, and grow fast, with pods maturing in about 60 days after sowing. That cowpeas are often used as cover crops between growing seasons to maintain soil health and enrich it with nitrogen shows you how what a low-maintenance vegetable this plant is. But you can also grow this veggie for an edible harvest. Cowpeas grow in areas and conditions that are tough for other vegetables, and naturally form upright, bushy plants, so this is a great option for beginners and busy gardeners who want to be more hands-off.

Black-Eyed Cowpea seeds are available from Eden Brothers and you can grow cowpeas in zones 5 through 11 as they handle the heat of midsummer very well. You can harvest fresh pods or leave them to dry to use later. Sow seeds for cowpeas in full sun and water regularly until they get established. Then you can largely leave them alone, and the plants will still thrive.

Successful vegetable gardening isn’t about doing everything perfectly. Start with these forgiving varieties of tasty veggies and simply provide as much consistent care as you can. The plants will thrive and give you a good harvest, even when your care is imperfect.

A spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) asks for very little, which is half its charm. But July is the month it pays to give your plants a bit of attention. Warm rooms and bright summer light have spider plants growing fast, throwing out new leaves, and long stems that end in baby plantlets. Give your plant what it wants now and, by late summer, you'll be looking at a full, cascading plant with spiderettes to spare.

Good spider plant care functions on the same handful of principles year-round, but July shuffles the order of priorities. Heat puts water and light near the top of the to-do list and it opens up the best stretch of the year for multiplying your spider plant into a fuller flush of spiderettes.

A few small jobs over the coming weeks and the results turn up in the leaves and lots of new spider babies. Here’s what your spider plant needs this month to keep it thriving for the rest of the year.

1. Water Steadily

(Image credit: Csikiphoto / Shutterstock)

A spider plant that took a week to dry out in spring can go dry in a few days once July heat sets in. So check more often. Sticking a finger into the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil will help you tell if soil is dry enough for another watering. Or use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Amazon.

Water your spider plants so that the soil is evenly moist, but never soggy and never bone dry. Let it swing between those extremes and the plant sulks, pouring what energy it has into hanging on rather than making spiderettes.

The water itself is worth a thought here, too, since spider plants are unusually touchy about water quality. Fluoride and chlorine in tap water build up over time and show up as crispy brown leaf tips on spider plants. Rainwater, distilled water, or tap water that you left out overnight avoids the problem. It's an easy swap to make once the tips start browning.

2. Feed Lightly

(Image credit: JulieAlexK / Getty Images)

All that summer growth runs on nutrients. But spider plants are light feeders, so treating one like a hungry tomato can actually do more harm than good.

Applying a half-strength liquid houseplant food, every two to four weeks while it's actively growing, keeps the foliage deep green and the plantlets coming. Something gentle, like this Grow Queen Organic Liquid Indoor Plant Food from Amazon, does the job at a reduced dose.

Pour on more than that and it backfires. Excess fertilizer leaves salts behind in the soil and those salts can burn the leaf tips the same way hard tap water does. A plant that’s busy coping with that won't have spare energy for producing spiderettes.

If you've already overdone it and given your plant too much fertilizer, run plain water through the pot for a minute to flush out the mineral buildup, then dial back fertilizing your spider plant.

3. Give It Bright, Indirect Light

(Image credit: ArtCreationsDesignPhoto / Shutterstock)

Light is the lever that most affects whether you get spider plantlets at all. A spider plant in a dim corner survives, but it stays sparse and rarely bothers with producing babies.

Set your plant where it get plenty of bright, indirect light – a little back from a sunny window, or right up against a north or east one. A mature plant answers by sending out more of the arching stems that become spiderettes.

Direct summer sun is the one thing to steer clear of. Midday rays through glass can scorch foliage, bleaching it pale and leaving burnt patches, especially on variegated types of spider plants.

If the leaves look washed out, move the pot back from the glass. A quarter turn each week keeps growth even, rather than the whole plant leaning toward the window.

4. Provide Plenty of Humidity

(Image credit: Dmitrii Marchenko / Getty Images)

Crank the air conditioning and your indoor air goes bone-dry, which spider plants feel keenly. Those same brown tips trace partly back to dry air. Dry, warm rooms are exactly what spider mites look for, too. They're ready to settle onto a plant that's already stressed. Nudging the humidity up a little shuts down both problems at once.

There are a couple other low-effort fixes that work well, too. Cluster a few plants together or stand the pot on a tray of pebbles and water and the air right around your spider plant stays moister.

Misting adds to the humidity as well, and a Fiskars plant mister from Amazon is just a thirty-second job on a hot morning. But one caution: don't leave foliage damp into the night because moisture sitting on the leaves invites fungal spots.

5. Pot Up Spiderettes

(Image credit: Nick Daly / Getty Images)

Those dangling plantlets on your spider plant are one of the big benefits of growing this houseplant and July is a good time to turn them into new plants. Once a spiderette has grown a few small nub-like roots of its own, it's ready to pot up to propagate more spider plants for free.

Here's the method that gives the best result: set 4-inch (10 cm) nursery pots, like these ones from Walmart, filled with damp potting mix right next to the parent plant, and peg the still-attached spiderette into the soil. It roots in place while the parent keeps feeding it.

A couple of weeks later, once it has taken hold in the fresh soil, snip the runner that joins it to the parent. Rooting spiderettes in a glass of water works as well, if you cut them off first, though the soil-and-peg method tends to produce a stronger plant.

Whichever route you take, the potted babies can fill out thin spots in your existing display and leave you extras to hand off to anyone who admires the original.

6. Repot If It's Crowded

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

Here's something a little counterintuitive: spider plants flower and set plantlets best when they're root bound, so hold off on repotting in July unless absolutely necessary. A snug pot encourages your plants to produce more babies.

Repot spider plants only when they genuinely need it. Signs your plant needs repotting are thick white roots shoving above the soil line and coiling out the drainage holes or a pot that dries within a day of watering.

When it really is time to repot, move up a single pot size and use fresh, well-draining potting mix, like this houseplant potting soil from Miracle-Gro. Jumping to a huge container can backfire, since all that extra wet soil around the roots invites rot and stalls the plant's growth while it tries to fill the space.

July's active growth means a spider plant bounces back from repotting fast, so it's a fine month for the job – as long as the plant actually needs it.

The Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 is not your average pruner. This tool belongs to a category known as pruning snips. These tools are smaller than most bypass pruners or anvil pruners, and they have a specialized design that’s ideal for accurate, delicate work. For careful pruning tasks, the SP13 is one of the best pruning tools you can buy.

These snips are best described as pruning scissors, because of their symmetrical design. The blades are narrow, sharply pointed, and have a cutting edge along their entire length. This design equips the snips to cut soft plants cleanly and precisely. Although the snips are small, they have relatively long blades, which is useful when you’re pruning among dense or tangled stems and leaves.

Their size (and especially the size of the blade) makes this pruning tool ideal for reaching into dense plant clusters and slicing in an efficient, tidy manner. It's also great for comfort, allowing for accurate positioning without straining the fingers.

Let's get this out of the way quickly, though. Pruning snips like the SP13 are not suitable for cutting tree branches. Even narrow twigs are a challenge for this type of pruning tool. This Fiskars model can work well as a go-to tool for the delicate cutting tasks. But using it to prune woody stems or branches will only result in failure (and likely degradation of the blades). For that work, you are better using a good pair of bypass shears.

What the SP13 can do well is cut tender plant parts. Because these snips cut so cleanly, they’re an ideal choice for pruning soft plant stems. The sort of clean cuts you can make with the SP13 tend to heal well. With plant-friendly cutting in mind, the SP13 is a great choice not only for pruning tasks like deadheading, but also for taking cuttings for propagation.

Overview

(Image credit: Pete Wise)

Finnish brand Fiskars is a leading name for affordable cutting tools. Founded in 1649, the company has a long history of designing scissors and shears for a range of tasks. For repetitive garden-based work like pruning, Fiskars has earned a solid reputation for thoughtful ergonomic designs. In this regard, the SP13 is no exception.

This snipping tool is designed to bridge the gap between heavy-duty yard tools (like PowerGear loppers and bypass pruners) and utility scissors. Its beauty lies in its size and control in narrow reaches and its comfortable spring action. You can find Fiskars Solid Snip SP13 online at Amazon for $21.44, as well as via the main Fiskars store, in their Snips & Scissors section.

If shopping at Walmart or hardware stores like The Home Depot or Lowe’s, you might see it listed as the Fiskars 6-inch Stainless Steel Micro-Tip Pruning Snips. You can currently buy the Titanium model of SP13 from Home Depot for $13.98.

Key Specs

Type

Pruning snips

Cutting capacity

Designed for pruning soft, narrow stems

Blade material

Stainless steel

Handedness

Left or right

Accessories

Safety sheath

Performance

(Image credit: Pete Wise)

Since these snips are purpose-built for cutting tender stems, I focused on delicate types of pruning work. I started by using the SP13 to cut the stems of tender bedding plants. The snips did a great job of cleanly pruning stems, without chewing the plant or leaving messy cuts. The SP13 turned out to be ideal for deadheading, too. Using the snips, I was able to remove dead flower heads accurately and with minimal effort.

After testing, strong winds knocked over a row of dahlias in my yard. The SP13 snips turned out to be the best and most convenient pruner for cutting the broken stems down to size, so the dahlia flowers could be displayed in a vase indoors.

During testing, the plastic locking button on the review sample of the SP13 snapped off after getting jammed. Thankfully, I experienced no such problem with the replacement sample I received from Fiskars. The SP13 is generally reviewed very well by customers. Just bear in mind that this is a budget-priced pruner. Don't expect stellar construction.

(Image credit: Pete Wise)Should You Buy?

Attribute

Notes

Rating

Price & availability

Very affordable, although this is reflected in the build quality.

3/5

Design

Neat and user-friendly – except for the lock button.

4/5

Performance

Superb at the most delicate cutting tasks.

4/5

Buy It If...

You’re into propagation

These snips are perfect for taking all kinds of cuttings, while minimizing damage to the mother plant.

Budget is tight

There are some downsides to a low-cost pruner, but the SP13 has far more plus points. It gives great snipping control without denting your credit card.

Heavy pruning shears give you arm-ache

Weighing just 1.5 oz, the SP13 is one of the lightest pruners you can buy. Plus, the sharp blades make for blissfully low-effort pruning.

Don't Buy It If...

You’re thinking long-term

The SP13 is a great model in the short-to-medium-term, but lacks the build quality for assured long-term use.

A tough tool is required

If you have tough stems or tree branches that need pruning, the SP13 will not be suitable. For powerful cutting, choose an anvil pruner or bypass pruner instead.

Young children are likely to get near the pruner

The sharp, pointy blades of the SP13 make this a great pruner for cutting soft plants, but they may also pose a risk to children.

How Does It Compare?

The precision pruning market is competitive, which is good news if you are looking for a reasonably priced set of pruning tools. But depending on your pruning needs, the density of your plants, and the thickness of your stems, you need a different blade style, length, or ergonomic tension system. These picks offer unique advantages for food-safe hygiene, adjustable handle spans, or professional-grade bypass power. Here is how they stack up against the Fiskars Solid Snip Micro-Tip SP13 when it comes to precision cutting, price points, and everyday garden reliability.

Food-Safe Harvesting

Fiskars Fiskars Garden Herb Pruning Shears

Sharing the same spring system as the SP13, this 5-inch (12 cm) model is explicitly tailored for the kitchen garden. This dishwasher-safe model has a slightly broader blade profile for rapidly bundling herbs or greens, but it loses a little deep-reach accessibility in tight plant clusters.

Adaptive Ergonomics

Fiskars Fiskars SmartFit 8-Inch Bypass Pruners

This award-winning tool has a heavy-duty bypass blade with a smart, adjustable thumb lever to adjust how wide the handles open, for supreme comfort no matter how big your hands are. It’s worth considering if you want something to help sever lots of branches around 3/4 inches (2 cm) thick.

Hydroponic Precision

Corona Corona Micro Pruning Snips (FS 4120)

The closest competitor to the SP13, these cutters target indoor growers and houseplant collectors. There’s a double-sided micro-tip blade for microscopic cuts in dense foliage. It has an integrated handle lock for safe storage, but its return spring is slightly stiffer than Fiskars' system.

How We Tested

Writer, Pete Wise, testing the Fiskars SP13. (Image credit: Pete Wise)

Our reviewer tested the Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 by using the snips to carry out light pruning tasks around the yard. He focused testing on slicing soft plant stems, deadheading flowering plants, and snipping stems to specific sizes for preparing cuttings and cutting flower arrangements.

First reviewed September 2023

Many people assume that flowering plants can be neatly divided into two categories: those that bloom and rebloom throughout the season, and those that only bloom once. The truth is a little more complicated. Careful deadheading of the first wave of fading flowers can trigger a rebloom on a few so-called one and done flowers.

An ornamental flower isn't just blooming to make your yard look pretty – it is flowering to reproduce by setting seeds. Once pollination occurs and seed heads form, the plant receives a signal that its seasonal work is effectively complete, causing it to transfer energy into seed maturation. By stepping in with some well-timed snips, you interrupt this cycle.

These cuts essentially trick the plant into believing its mission is not over, driving it to develop a vibrant, bonus round of fresh flower blooms. So don’t fret about summer’s charms fading all too soon. You can cheat the system and secure a stunning second flush of blooms with this simple, well-timed trim.

Simple Snips for Reblooming

First, it helps to know which flowers will not rebloom, no matter what cuts you make. These include peonies, oriental poppies, irises, and true lilies. Timing is key: you also need to avoid trimming plants back while they’re still actively blooming. Conversely, don’t want too long. Don’t wait until the spent flowers have developed seeds to deadhead, as then it’s too late.

A good pair of sharp pruning shears can be your best friend when it comes to extending summer blooms. Slicing through tender stems with dull, rusty blades creates ragged, bruised wounds that invite bacterial rots and fungal infections. For soft-stemmed bloomers, use precision shears, scissors or snips. Our team rates the Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears from Amazon for clean, surgical snips. Cut right above emerging nodes so you don’t tear surrounding foliage.

(Image credit: Jokuephotography / Getty Images)

USDA hardiness zone also impacts timing. In USDA zones 3-5, trim in early July to give the second flush enough warm days to flourish ahead of late fall and first frosts. Meanwhile, in the south, summer soil conditions can be parched. Trimming in a drought can be stressful for plants. Always give your borders a deep watering 12-24 hours before you deadhead. Water again after trimming, especially on hot days. Avoid feeds with excess nitrogen, which encourage leaves rather than flowers.

1. Delphinium

(Image credit: Brytta / Getty Images)

Delphinium (aka larkspur) is beloved for its dramatic, tall spikes of early summer flowers. But regal perennial giants (hardy in zones 3-7) fade way too quickly, and if left alone, they won’t rebloom. So it’s tempting to think they are true one-and-done flowers. But you can get a secondary flush if you cut the first spent flower spikes to the base, or to where you can see a side shoot forming. Do this after the flowers fade and before they develop seeds, and you’ll get secondary spikes.

While the secondary flush won’t be the same towering columns as the first wave, these bewitching blue spires will look stunning alongside late-season ornamental grasses. If you neglect to deadhead them, the plant will produce unsightly brown seed pods, rapidly declining into a tatty mound. To nourish that second wave, mix a few spoonfuls of phosphorus-rich Down to Earth Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s into the surrounding topsoil immediately after deadheading.

2. Roses

(Image credit: Jorgeantonio / Getty Images)

There are a few different categories of roses, including modern types that have been bred to rebloom throughout summer. Older rose varieties generally only bloom once, though, unless you do some attentive deadheading. If you have an older variety that only gives you one flush of flowers, trim back spent blooms as soon as you see the flowers fade. You should get a small additional rebloom late in the season.

When tackling classic shrub, old garden, or hybrid tea roses, the way you deadhead matters. Rather than simply snapping off the faded flower head, follow the stem down to the first leaf axis with 5 leaflets. Make a clean 45-degree cut, one-quarter inch (0.6 cm) above this outward-facing bud. If left untrimmed, roses grow decorative but energy-consuming rose hips, shutting down future flower production. To help roses bushes bounce back from summer heat stress, treat them to a bi-weekly application of Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon.

3. Catmint

(Image credit: Anna Gratys / Shutterstock)

Catmint (nepeta) is a perennial that gives a spectacular flush of purple flowers in early summer. Hardy down to zone 3, it is a joy for low-stress gardening. But once the flowers are spent, you’re left with a mess of floppy stems. When you see the flowers fade in midsummer, cut the entire mound back to about half its height. Grasp the floppy outer stems and shear the entire mound into a tight, neat dome using sharp hedging shears. It is very forgiving and responds well to this simple trim.

If you don’t deadhead, you’ll wind up with a sprawling, messy center that looks untidy for the rest of the year. Water well after trimming for a vibrant second round. Nepeta prefers lean, poor soils, so avoid heavy fertilizers. Instead, enrich the bed with Worm Bliss Premium Earthworm Castings from Amazon. This slow-release treatment boosts moisture retention while encouraging a lush second wave of lavender-blue.

4. Coreopsis

(Image credit: Thrillerfillerspiller / Alamy)

Also known as tickseed, coreopsis is a cheerful perennial that blooms abundantly in early summer. But when the spent blooms go to seed, they look messy. Coreopsis can keep blooming well into fall and responds well to deadheading. Do this regularly, whenever you see spent blooms. Treat threadleaf varieties like catmint and shear the top third of the plant away once the first massive wave finishes.

For large-flowered varieties, use micro-tip snips to cut spent stems down to the nearest healthy side bud. You might find it helps to add some Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix from Walmart around the root zone for drainage. Follow up with a sprinkle of Dr Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Amazon as the optimum foundation for non-stop color well into fall.

5. Salvia

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Salvia is a popular perennial that gives a dramatic profusion of early-season flowers in shades of blue and purple. Perennial salvias (such as 'May Night' or 'Caradonna') thrive in zones 4-9, and are loved for their rich texture and high drought tolerance. Once they fade, the plant can look messy, but the show doesn’t have to be over. Right after the first flush fades, trim plants back by one-third. When deadheading, locate the main stalk and cut it down to the base, where you’ll see new shoots.

If you don’t deadhead, these vibrant spikes dry into brittle black sticks that ruin the neat look of your borders. After deadheading, water deeply and add a light feed. New flower spikes should appear in weeks. Because dense salvia clumps are highly susceptible to powdery mildew, keep the foliage healthy with a little Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart. This protects the new, emerging leaves from fungal pathogens without harming the local pollinators that will drop by.

6. Garden Phlox

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Once the large clusters of flowers stop blooming on this hardy perennial (Phlox paniculata), it’s easy to assume that’s it. But as soon as your garden phlox looks spent, trim back the flower clusters, cutting just above the upper leaves. The second flush triggered by deadheading will consist of smaller, more delicate terminal flower clusters, extending your color window by up to four weeks.

If you leave the old heads intact, they drop inferior, non-true-to-color seedlings that can crowd out your original.Keep your deadheaded plants well-watered and add some fertilizer to encourage side shoots to develop where you’ve made cuts. To stop your phlox drying out during its secondary bud formation, dress the soil surface with a good organic mulch, like Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon. This locks in vital root moisture and shields the soil from intense summer sun stress.

7. Shasta Daisies

(Image credit: Thanachod Suya / Shutterstock)

These pretty daisies flower in spring and summer. Shasta daisies are tough in zones 5-9, but they turn a muddy brown as they fade. And once they fade, they look unsightly, and turn into seedheads if you leave them in place. Instead of letting that happen, cut spent Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum × superbum) flower stems to the base or a side bud. Do this regularly as each individual flower fades. Keep the plants watered to encourage fresh growth, and remove any foliage that goes yellow.

Slide your shears down the flower stem to where it connects to the foliage clump, making your cut hidden. Plants push out dense growth to support secondary blooms, so they are highly vulnerable to drying out. Give your Shastas a deep drink, and add a handful of Espoma Organic Chicken Manure from Walmart. This provides the slow-release nitrogen punch required to fuel fresh white blooms through to first frost.

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