Organic Gardening News

Everyone thinks that a beautiful garden is the result of back-breaking labor, but I have finally accepted that I am not doing my garden any favors by tidying it too much. Especially when it comes to my perennials.

Yes, I am very much of the opinion that some perennials genuinely look better when you leave them alone (which suits my gardening style and generally lazy demeanor) right down to the ground. Honestly, stop deadheading, cutting back and generally fussing over them, and you'll find that their seedheads become architectural, their stems add movement, and the whole border takes on a wonderfully Secret Garden vibe that is so much more appealing than a garden where everything is standing to attention.

That doesn't mean I let everything go. My lupins, for example, are spectacular for the five minutes they're in flower and then spend the rest of the time looking like they've escaped from a Tim Burton film. Those, I am still tempted to tidy away. Still, there are plenty of perennials that become more interesting as the flowers fade, and I've become increasingly convinced that we should give them the chance.

6 Perennials That Look Better When You Let Them Go Wild

Look, it might appeal to my lazy side to let my perennials do their own thing, but there's an added bonus; leaving plants standing can also be better for wildlife, too.

Yes, faded flowers and seedheads provide food and shelter, while their stems and foliage add structure long after the main flush of flowers has passed. And, selfishly, there is something rather lovely about doing less work and ending up with a garden that looks more abundant.

The trick is knowing which plants to leave alone. These are the ones I've found can handle a little benign neglect – and, in many cases, actually look better for it.

1. Alliums

(Image credit: Annie Shropshire / Shutterstock)

Alliums are perhaps the easiest place to start if you're trying to break the habit of tidying everything the moment it finishes flowering. I love them in flower, but I think I might love them even more once those purple globes have faded and turned into sculptural seedheads.

Rather than cutting them down, I leave them standing among grasses and other perennials. The dried heads hover above the planting like little skeletons of the flowers that were there before, catching the light beautifully, particularly later in the season. And because they hold their shape for so long, they give the border something to look at when many early-summer flowers have disappeared.

If you fancy an unusual twist on the trend, go for the Nevskianum Allium Bulbs from Burpee; this rare red allium blooms from May to June. If you prefer that classic purple hit, though, Burpee's Globemaster Allium Bulbs are widely considered the best for color intensity.

2. Agapanthus

(Image credit: Flower Garden / Shutterstock)

Agapanthus is another one of those perennials I am very reluctant to cut back too soon. Those spectacular blue or white flowerheads are obviously the main event, but the fading heads can remain attractive for weeks afterwards, gradually drying into something that looks almost as though it belongs in a flower arrangement.

There is also something very satisfying about allowing a plant to go through its whole performance (from bloom, to flower, to fading petals, to seedhead) rather than treating the end of flowering as a cue to get the scissors out.

Shop Agapanthus:

Daylily Nursery Yonder Blue Agapanthus

CZ Grain White Agapanthus

LATROPIC Live Blue Agapanthus Plant

3. Coneflower

(Image credit: Mieneke Andeweg van Rijn / Getty Images)

Coneflowers are practically designed for the stop-tidying approach. The flowers are beautiful, but once the petals fall, those prominent central cones remain, giving the plant an entirely different look.

I leave mine standing for as long as possible, particularly into fall. The seedheads add useful structure when the border is starting to lose its summer fullness, and they provide food for birds.

It's a perennial that serves as a good reminder that a flower doesn't necessarily stop being useful – or beautiful – just because it has stopped flowering. Although, yes, there are ways around this; something like the Magnus Purple Coneflower from Nature Hills is great as it never droops or goes floppy!

4. Salvia

(Image credit: CBCK-Christine/Getty Images)

I have salvia in pots out front, and for years I have done absolutely nothing to it. It comes back, flowers, gets a little unruly and generally looks lush without asking for much in return. It's one of those plants I planted and then more or less forgot about.

Recently, though, I will admit that I've had to start watering it. And honestly, if salvia is telling you it needs a drink? Yeah, then you know it's been hot; no surprise, then, that this year's heat and relentless sun have left it looking a little more scorched than usual, but normally it just gets on with things, filling its pots with flowers and foliage without any careful shaping or constant deadheading from me.

That's exactly what I love about it. I'm increasingly drawn to plants that don't need me hovering over them, and salvia has more than earned its place in the garden on that basis alone. Let it grow, let it flop a little and let it do its thing – the result is much more relaxed than anything I could achieve by trying to keep it perfectly tidy.

Shop Salvia:

Nature Hills Nursery May Night Salvia

Nature Hills Nursery Bumbleberry Salvia

Nature Hills Nursery Marcus Salvia

5. Mexican Fleabane

(Image credit: AL Hedderly/Getty Images)

I have spoken before about my undying love for this invasive perennial, because Mexican fleabane is truly the ultimate “please just leave me alone” plant. I grow it in pots (every container garden needs one plant that thrives on neglect, right?), where it spills over the edges in clouds of tiny daisy-like flowers and somehow manages to make the whole container look more generous than anything I deliberately planted in it.

While you should never let it loose near sensitive habitats or encouraging it to spread unchecked, it's a beautiful pot plant. And a very, very, very easy one, too.

6. Yarrow

(Image credit: N Stertz / Shutterstock)

Yarrow is another perennial that gets more interesting as it ages, not least of all because it is one of the longest-blooming perennials going. Its flat-topped flowerheads have a lovely meadow-like quality when they're in bloom, but I also like the way they gradually dry and turn into little architectural platforms above the foliage.

Instead of cutting them down as soon as they fade, let them remain through fall and even into winter if you like the look. And, if you want one that looks like the picture above, you need the Strawberry Seduction™ Yarrow from Nature Hills in your life.

BONUS: Plants I Want to Grow

The lazy side of me is always on the lookout for plants that look fantastic while requiring approximately zero fuss. So there are a few more perennials firmly on my wish list.

Bee balm, catmint, Russian sage and tickseed (Coreopsis) are all calling my name, largely because they seem to have that same wonderfully unfussy quality – plenty of flowers, plenty of movement and very little need for me to hover over them with secateurs.

I'm particularly tempted by Russian sage for its silvery foliage and hazy purple flowers, while tickseed has the kind of cheerful, easygoing look that makes a border feel instantly more abundant. And bee balm? Anything that brings flowers, pollinators and a slightly unruly presence to the garden has my attention.

Shop Perennials That Love To Be Left Alone:

Clovers Garden Russian Sage Plants

Clovers Garden Bee Balm Balmy Purple

CATMINT

EKT Nursery Purrsian Blue Catmint

Basically, my ideal perennial is one that looks like I've put considerably more effort into the garden than I actually have.

If that's not a planting strategy, I don't know what is.

Shrubs that bloomed beautifully in May can still disappoint the following spring, and late summer dryness is usually the reason. A weekly soak from now through autumn protects the buds forming for next year right now.

Azaleas and rhododendrons look after themselves for much of the year. That reputation is fair, right up until late summer. What happens to these shrubs in August and September rarely shows at the time, and the consequences arrive eight or nine months later as a sparse, patchy flush of flowers.

Both belong to the genus Rhododendron. Both set next spring's flower buds during July and August. Watering azaleas through that window is the one job that carries real weight, and it gets skipped easily when the plants show no obvious distress. A weekly soak usually covers it. How and when the water goes down matters as much as the amount.

Late Summer Is When Next Year's Flowers Are Set

(Image credit: cjmckendry / Getty Images)

Flower bud differentiation happens in midsummer, usually across July and August in temperate gardens. By the end of that stretch a shrub has committed to a finite number of buds. No amount of spring feeding raises the count afterward. Fat, rounded buds at the branch tips are the ones to look for, sitting alongside the slimmer pointed leaf buds. Deciduous and evergreen types run on the same schedule.

Drought during that window thins the display. A shrub short of water pulls resources away from bud formation, and buds that started never get to finish. The damage stays invisible through August. Often there is no obvious sign beyond some afternoon leaf curl. The plant heads into autumn looking healthy enough. The bill comes due next spring, when half the branch tips leaf out and never flower.

How Much Water, and How Often

(Image credit: Francesca Leslie / Shutterstock)

Aim at roughly 1 inch (2.5cm) a week, rainfall included. Below that, supplementary watering will be necessary. A rain gauge from Amazon settles the question and ends the guesswork about whether an afternoon storm actually delivered anything. Plenty of summer showers amount to far less than they appear to. Shrubs in their first two seasons need closer attention.

One long soak beats several short ones. Aim to wet the soil down to roughly 8 to 10 inches (20-25cm), which takes a slow trickle rather than a quick sweep across the bed. Shallow sprinkling wets the mulch and very little underneath it. Push a trowel in near the drip line to see how far it actually traveled.

Location, Location, Location

(Image credit: Roman Beliakov / Getty Images)

Both plants carry a shallow fibrous root mat, confined almost entirely to the top 6 to 12 inches (15-30cm) of soil. There is no taproot reaching down for reserves. That mat spreads outward as well, so water poured tight against the stem misses much of it. Work out to the drip line and slightly past it. A soaker hose from Home Depot laid in a loose ring around the shrub can handle the whole job unattended.

Morning is the better slot. Foliage dries before evening, which keeps fungal trouble off evergreen leaves. Overhead sprinklers are the weakest option for that same reason. A fair share evaporates before it lands. Water at ground level and go slowly. Sloped beds may want two shorter passes with a pause between.

Holding Moisture Steady Without Drowning the Roots

(Image credit: Jurgute / Getty Images)

Mulch buys time between waterings. A 2 to 3 inch (5-8cm) layer of pine bark mulch from Walmart holds moisture in the root zone and cools the soil underneath. What it will not do is change the pH, whatever the bag implies. Surface mulch rarely shifts a reading at all. Elemental sulfur dug in, after a soil test, is the reliable route to the 4.5 to 6.0 range. Keep mulch clear of the stems by an inch or two. A pile against the trunk traps moisture right where crown rot starts.

Too much has its own cost, though. Ground that stays waterlogged sets up Phytophthora root rot, usually Phytophthora cinnamomi. Infected shrubs wilt. So they get watered, and the rot moves faster. Anything drooping in soil that is already damp probably has a drainage problem rather than a thirst one — check with a finger before reaching for the hose. Heavy clay may never drain well enough on its own. A bed raised 12 inches (30cm) or more above grade sidesteps the question entirely.

These are low-effort tasks you can spread out between now and the first hard frost. Keep it up, and the buds now forming on those branch tips should open next spring in the numbers they were meant to.

Even the dogs have noticed a difference.

“It took them no time at all to enjoy the grass and the smells and tree cover like at Clark Park and Trout Lake,” says Jesse Ray-Contreras.

In early March, Ray-Contreras and their husband Gabriel Ray-Contreras, along with their two Boston terriers Olly and Ella, took possession of their new home at 12th and Commercial. They moved from a 620-square-foot one-bedroom rental in Yaletown to a 1,100-square-foot three-bedroom in Ace, a Wesgroup Properties development.

“We wanted to live somewhere with a different pace than downtown — more trees, more grass for the dogs, a variety of architecture, smaller businesses, that type of thing.”

The six-storey building holds 61 one-, two-, and three-bedroom units, with remaining homes ranging in floor space from 512 to 1020 square feet. North-facing homes have views of downtown, the North Shore mountains, and the shops and restaurants lining Commercial. South-facing homes look out over a second-floor courtyard with two barbecues and a sink, and a kids’ play area. The courtyard connects to a shared-use room with multiple lounge and game areas, a kitchen and a bathroom, for 2,900 square feet of amenity space.

A work hub sits off the lobby on the main floor, which is home to several retail spaces including a café, Merci Boulangerie. A hair salon, wellness and meditation studio and electronics repair shop will also be moving in.

Nearby restaurants include The Burrow, the vegetarian Mexican restaurant formerly known as Banditas, and perennial Szechuanese favourite ChongQing. The Rio Theatre and City Avenue Market, formerly Donald’s, are a few blocks north.

The Ray-Contreras began looking for a presale home in 2023. Ace’s 2026 completion date “gave us time to get our affairs in order,” Ray-Contreras says. Both are psychotherapists with their own practice, In Good Company Counselling. They wanted to be close to the SkyTrain for easy transit to their practice’s downtown location.

“You’re so close to the SkyTrain station. Getting just about anywhere is faster than by car.”

They came across Ace shortly after beginning their search and knew of the developer through a friend who lives in the River District, which was master-planned by Wesgroup.

“We started conversing with a colleague-slash-friend who’s also an agent on a Saturday. By Wednesday we had signed the paperwork and given our first part of the deposit.”

According to Wesgroup senior sales manager Richard Alvarez, as of this writing, 60 per cent of the homes had been sold. Buyers have mostly been in their 30s and 40s, many first-time homeowners.

For the Ray-Contreras, ACE checked a lot of boxes: price, location, size, and esthetic.

“We wanted something modern but still cosy, nothing too sterile. It very much feels like Ace was developed by and for millennials — said with compliments.”

The homes have an open layout. Bedrooms are designed with walk-through closets and ensuite bathrooms. High ceilings, 8’8” add to the feeling of spaciousness. Balconies range in size. The Ray-Contreras’, for instance, is 174 square feet, while the home’s floorspace is 1020 square feet.

Kitchen features include a herringbone white tile backsplash and Italian cabinetry and appliances like Fulgor Milano gas cooktops, wall ovens and integrated fridges. The two colour schemes, crema and coffee, provide Oreo-cookie-sharp contrasts.

“It feels modern, not kitschy, and designed to age well. I also think the layouts pay a lot of mind to the utility of space. All of the bedrooms in the suites we looked at are separated, they don’t share a wall. And the flow works quite well.”

They originally purchased a two-bedroom home but decided to upgrade a year later to a three-bedroom.

“Neither of us is from Canada, so having enough space to host friends and family from out of town is really important. Now we have not only a guest room but a flex space that acts as an exercise/game/dog room.”

Other building features include a ground-floor dog-wash station and, in the underground parking lot, a bike storage and repair station and stalls pre-wired for EV charging.

“We don’t have an electric vehicle, but it’s something we would like to do,” Ray-Contreras said. So having the option gave us a lot of flexibility.”

Olly and Ella aren’t the only ones enjoying the new neighbourhood.

“There’s a friendliness to East Van. You can tell that folks invest in the neighbourhood, not to say that folks in other parts of the city don’t. I just think that there’s a hustle and bustle to downtown that maybe squeezes some of that out. And there’s a slower pace, quite literally, in some cases in East Van. It’s been a welcome change for us and for our two dogs.”

Project: Ace

Project address: 1680 E. 12th Ave., Vancouver, B.C.

Developer: Wesgroup Properties

Architect: Ciccozzi Architecture

Interior designer: Wesgroup Properties

Project size: 61 homes

Price: One-bedroom homes from $555,900

Number of bedrooms : One-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments

Sales centre: 1680 E. 12th Ave., Vancouver, B.C.

Centre hours: By appointment

Phone: 604-571-9904

Website:wesgroup.ca/ace

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• New Westminster townhomes blend heritage-style facades with contemporary living
• Interior design rules that can — and can’t — be broken

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

8529 Ashleigh McIvor Dr., Whistler

Type: Four-bedroom, five-bathroom detached

Size: 4,320 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $4,878,000

Listed for: $5,395,000

Sold for: $5,000,000

Sold on: May 17

Days on market in this listing: 143

Listing agent: Bob Cameron PREC and Sally Warner PREC at ReMax Sea to Sky Real Estate

Buyers agent: Nick Swinburne PREC at Angell Hasman & Associates Realty

The big sell: This modern four-bedroom detached home was built with an eye firmly on contemporary style and an aim to capture the breathtaking views that span Green Lake, Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, and Black Tusk. Set within the Baxter Creek community on the north side of Whistler, there is ample opportunity to enjoy all four seasons with access to a swimming pool and hot tub at the strata’s clubhouse, and proximity to myriad recreational activities that the town is renowned for. The house was built in 2014 with warm wood finishes, radiant heated tile floors, an open-concept living area complete with a floating gas fireplace and glass doors that open to a sun-filled deck, a well-equipped kitchen, a large mud room, and a gym and family room on the lower of the three levels. A legal one-bedroom suite offers additional accommodation. The home has an integrated double garage, and a monthly maintenance fee of $220.13.

2323 Graveley St., Vancouver

Type: Four-bedroom, two-bathroom detached

Size: 1,882 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,506,600

Listed for: $1,750,000

Sold for: $1,695,000

Sold on: June 10

Days on market in this listing: 21

Listing agent: Adam Chahl PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Jessica Smith PREC at ReMax Select Realty

The big sell: Vancouver’s eclectic Grandview-Woodland neighbourhood is the venue for this 1920’s house that exudes Craftsman detailing. The exterior has stone pillars supporting a gabled roofline with exposed wood elements including rafter tails and purlins, and the recent addition of a new roof adds to the value. The interior was renovated in 2014 and features a fully-finished basement with a two-bedroom legal suite with its own entrance and address, while the main floor has a modern bathroom and kitchen with Shaker-style cabinets and stainless-steel appliances, a living room with an electric fireplace and linear stone tiles above the mantelpiece, two bedrooms with the primary enjoying a walk-in closet, and the attic provides additional storage. High ceilings are finished with crown moulding, laminate floors flow through each room, and the walls are finished with designer paint colours or wallpaper. Outside, the front and backyards are fully fenced.

136 — 1350 Mitchell St., Coquitlam

Type: Four-bedroom, four-bathroom townhouse

Size: 2,002 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,352,000

Listed for: $1,289,900

Sold for: $1,270,500

Sold on: June 27

Days on market in this listing: 53

Listing agent: Rod Bahari PREC at Sutton Group — West Coast Realty

Buyers agent: Krista Lapp PREC at Royal LePage Elite West

The big sell: The four-year-old Ballantree development comprises a collection of townhomes that were built by Polygon on Coquitlam’s Burke Mountain. Set among nature, the three-level units offer four bedrooms and a range of floor plans. This particular home has an end-unit position with just over 2,000 square feet of internal living space. There is an open kitchen with a large island, stone counters, a marble backsplash, and stainless-steel appliances including a gas cooktop, nine-foot-high ceilings, vinyl floors, a custom feature wall with built-in cabinets, and a flexible area that could be used as a home office. Three bedrooms reside on the upper floor served by two bathrooms, while the lower level offers a fourth bedroom and bathroom. A side-by-side double garage provides an electric vehicle outlet, and the property comes with a monthly maintenance fee of $346.40 and the balance of the New Home Warranty.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

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• Sold (Bought): West Vancouver home blends luxury with functionality
• Sold (Bought): 100-year-old Shaughnessy home showcases refined finishing touches

Boxwood has long been the go-to choice for creating evergreen privacy around a home, but it definitely has its problems. Thankfully, Kevin Bacon and Kyra Sedgwick's Los Angeles garden proves there's a much better alternative.

Oh yes! Instead of relying on clipped hedging that's prone to blight and ravaging by box tree moth, the couple have embraced a layered planting scheme that delivers all of that wonderful privacy, texture and year-round interest you get from an evergreen boxwood.

Better still? Why, the fact that it does it all in exchange for far less water, too! No small thing, considering how hot and dry our summers have been of late.

Kevin Bacon's Privacy Planting Is Better Than Boxwood

From the street, Kevin Bacon and Kyra Sedgwick's front garden is framed by a loose and natural-looking arrangement of drought-tolerant plants rather than a formal hedge. Towering California pepper trees create a high canopy, while bold agaves, birds of paradise and fragrant rosemary (aka the 'it' plant of the future) fill the space beneath.

The result? A living screen that feels lush and secluded without the rigid appearance and dramatic goings on of traditional boxwood.

Check it out:

(Image credit: GTCRFOTO/Alamy)

Rather than depending on a single evergreen hedge (or putting all of those metaphorical eggs into one box tree moth-addled basket), several plants have been used here to soften views into the property.

The taller trees filter sightlines from above, mid-height birds of paradise provide dense evergreen foliage, and lower-growing agaves and rosemary add volume at ground level. It feels softer and more contemporary than a wall of box, and it is also 100% made for a warming climate.

Think about it: agaves store water in their thick leaves, rosemary thrives in hot and dry conditions once established, and California pepper trees are well adapted to drought. Together they require significantly less irrigation than thirsty hedging plants, making them an attractive option for gardeners looking to reduce maintenance and water use.

Shop Kevin Bacon's Planting Scheme:

CitronellaKing 3 Creeping Rosemary in 2.5” Nursery Cubes

Daylily Nursery Agave "Blue Glow"

Kauai Garden California Tree Pepper Seeds

None of this means boxwood has become obsolete, of course. Once a go-to for formal gardens and neatly clipped borders, though, there's no getting away from the fact that it is increasingly falling out of favor. And, in areas where drought is becoming a concern, or where homeowners want a more relaxed Mediterranean-inspired aesthetic, Kevin Bacon’s planting scheme offers a compelling alternative (especially if you don't want your heart broken by box caterpillar drama later down the line).

A single hedge might be the obvious choice, but, as Kevin Bacon might put it, there are degrees of separation. Combine drought-tolerant trees, evergreen shrubs and architectural planting, and you can create privacy in a far more interesting way... and all with more texture, less water and a garden that feels distinctly of the moment.

Welcome to the big time.

We’ve all been there. One second you are having a great time with your family and friends. The next thing you know, you are swatting left and right. These pesky bugs can turn a nice evening into a nightmare, and I’m here to sort out what works and what’s just garden hype.

Mosquitoes aren’t just annoying. They’re actually a real health threat, carrying stuff like West Nile virus or Zika that can knock you flat, quickly. I, myself and plenty of friends have dealt with itchy bites that turned into fevers, and it’s no joke at all. These mosquito repellent plants might help, but they’re not a magic shield, by any means. Most do best as backyard mosquito control in beds or big pots where they can spread out. I’ve tested a few myself, and with the right know-how, you can cut down those bites. It’s all about setting realistic hopes!

Every yard’s a battleground against these biters, and shade or standing water can make it worse. If you’re looking for more tricks, check out backyard mosquito control to team up with your plants. Let’s get into what these green helpers can do!

Why Mosquito Repellent Plants Might Help (Or Not)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Mosquitoes are a pain, but can planting certain types actually keep them away? The idea’s been floating around forever. Some folks swear by a yard full of these plants to scare off skeeters, while others call it a stretch. Certain plant scents can throw off mosquito senses, but it’s not like a commercial bug spray.

You need to plant them in big clumps in the ground for the best shot, not just a lonely pot. Crushing leaves to rub on your skin or brewing a tincture to spritz can amp it up, though it’s more of a mild nudge than a knockout punch. I usually use it by rubbing marigold tincture on my arms at a cookout or any other outdoor fun. It cut the bites down a bit, but a good picaridin bug spray like this one from Amazon is much longer lasting.

The trick is using them right. Rubbing crushed leaves gives a quick scent burst, while a tincture (steep leaves in water or oil, strain, and spray) lasts longer but takes effort. Editor Emma Kendell made her own highly effective catnip mosquito spray!

Placement matters when using plants to repel skeeters. Plant them near seating areas or paths where you hang out, and refresh the rub or spray every couple hours. I’ve found it works better on calm days than when the wind’s blowing the scent away.

Top Mosquito-Repelling Plants and How to Use Them

Let’s talk plants that might give mosquitoes the boot. You can try them for yourself!

1. Citronella Grass

(Image credit: Kcris Ramos / Getty Images)

Citronella grass is that tall, lemony stuff you see in yards, loving USDA zones 9-11, especially down south. Crush its leaves and smear them on your skin for a faint citrus shield, or steep them into a spray tincture if you’re up for it. It flowers with feathery tops in summer, but it needs room in ground beds to really let that scent fly. I planted some near my patio, and it’s been a decent buffer.

2. Marigolds

(Image credit: Orest lyzhechka / Shutterstock)

Marigolds with their bright orange blooms fit zones 2-11 and can handle a pot or bed. Rubbing crushed petals on your skin works for a quick fix, and they flower all summer, pulling in good bugs too. I keep a pot by the back door and dab it on before stepping out.

3. Lavender

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Lavender is a beauty, thriving in zones 5-9 with purple spikes blooming in late summer. Crush the flowers for a rub or whip up a light spray. It’s best in ground plots with good drainage. I’ve got some by the fence, and it adds a nice touch.

4. Basil

(Image credit: Joseph De Sciose / Aurora Photos / Getty Images)

Basil is a kitchen star that handles zones 4-10, flowering with small white blooms if it bolts. Crush fresh leaves for a skin rub or mix into a tincture. This works best in ground beds where it can bush out. I grow it near the grill, and a quick crush before flipping burgers helps.

5. Catnip

(Image credit: AlpamayoPhoto / Getty Images)

Catnip is one that loves zones 3-9, flowers with little white blooms in summer and can be rubbed on skin or turned into a spray. It’s strong stuff. Cats love it, but mosquitoes hate it. I keep it in a ground bed away from my pets!

Other Yard Practices to Kick Mosquitoes Out

(Image credit: Kathleen Walters / Future)

Plants alone won’t win the war. Other moves can team up with them. Clearing standing water from buckets or gutters is a must, since mosquitoes breed like crazy there. I dump mine out every few days, especially after rain. You can also create a "bucket of doom" that uses Mosquito Dunks from Amazon to prevent mosquito larvae from reaching maturity. Adding a fan on the patio stirs up air, which makes it a lot harder for them to land.

Some plants can lure mosquito predators like dragonflies or bats. They are hungry little creatures. I’ve got a small pond with water plants that draw dragonflies, and they snack on larvae like it’s their very last meal! I’d say that it is a good idea planting nectar-rich flowers like yarrow near your repellents can attract these helpers too. It’s not instant, but over time, it builds a natural defense. I’ve noticed fewer biters since adding that mix!

Mosquito repellent plants aren’t a miracle, but they sure can help you to lighten the load if you use them just right. Pair them with smart yard habits, and you might just enjoy those summer nights again.

Frequently Asked QuestionsDo plants that repel mosquitoes actually work?

Do you catch yourself wondering if those mosquito repellent plants can really save you from a swarm? It’s a big question, no doubt, and honestly, it’s not a straight yes or no. Some folks swear by plants like citronella or lavender, saying the scents throw off those pesky bugs, and I've even noticed fewer bites when I rub crushed marigold leaves on my arms during a backyard hangout. But science says it’s more of a mild deterrent.

Plants need to be in big clumps or used up close, like crushing leaves for your skin or making a tincture, to make a dent. They won’t clear your yard like a commercial spray, but paired with draining standing water, they can help. I’ve tried it, and it’s worth a shot on a calm evening!

How should I use mosquito repellent plants to keep bugs away?

Figuring out how to use these plants is half the fun! You’ll want to plant them where you spend time. Think like near the patio or by the door. Using ground beds for big ones like lemongrass or pots for portability with basil isn’t a bad idea, either.

Crush the leaves and rub them on your skin for a quick scent boost, or steep them in water to make a spray tincture if you’re feeling crafty. I’ve done this with rosemary and it lasts a bit.

Keep them trimmed to release more oils, and refresh every couple hours since the effect fades. I also toss some near a fan to spread the scent, and it’s made my summer nights a little more bearable!

My kitchen garden and veg beds look a bit crumpled around the edges. Beans have gone a bit stringy this last week, and my favorite butterhead lettuce has turned bitter. Pulling out spent zucchini vines feels like conceding the season: it’s not over yet, though. Soil that’s still this warm is a precious commodity, so why not put it to work?

Salad greens sit near the top of any list of easy vegetables to grow, and in late summer they get easier still. Seeds that might sit sulking for a week in April can be up in three days at the moment. Sow before the month is out, and there’ll be pickings by mid-September, with more coming clear through to the first hard frost. The bed need not be empty first, since these new crops can go in wherever a crop came out.

So treating these empty gaps as lost space is a wasted opportunity. Warm August soil can accelerate germination, root development, and subsequent nourishment. By growing fast-maturing crops in the warm, vacant pockets left by cleared peas or early potatoes, you’re fast-tracking your next harvests. You can dodge peak summer pest cycles, enjoy early maturing flavors, and fill salad bowls straight through to late fall.

Fast Salad Crops to Grow in August

Before you rush to fill those gaps, think about the condition of the earth, and the general light and drainage. The spent crop has left a space, sure – but what gets left behind will be lumps and root holes that fine seed has no chance in. So before you sow these crops, rake the space until the surface resembles coarse sand. An inch (2.5cm) of compost forked into the top 3 inches (8cm) can help restore a little of the goodness. It will also hang onto water better than sun-baked ground. Skip the deep digging, though: none of these crops will root far enough down to notice.

While warmth is appreciated in the earth, baking heat can be problematic. Lettuce and spinach flatly refuse to germinate once the soil is baking, and corn salad is no better about it. Water the furrow before the seed goes in (rather than after), since watering over the top washes fine seed into clumps. Add some sifted or aged compost or a fine potting mix, such as Espoma Organic Land & Sea Compost from Amazon, which restores critical nutrients and moisture for late summer plantings. Anywhere that puddles in a downpour will need a raised row.

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Regional climate differences will have some bearing on sowing success. Gardeners in USDA hardiness zones 3-6 need to move quickly to ensure crops reach maturity before daylight drops below 10 hours a day. Growers in zones 7-10 face 90°F (32°C) heat spikes, so an overhead shade cloth can help to keep seedbeds under 75°F (24°C). Direct sowing is usually better than plugs for these fast crops, as transplant shock can waste precious growing days. Don’t forget to keep the seedbed damp to prevent surface crusting once you get these fast-growing crops in the ground…

1. Arugula

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Nothing else in the salad bed moves this fast. Arugula (Eruca vesicaria) germinates in 3-4 days in warm ground and gives a picking of baby leaves inside 3 weeks. The August advantage is flavor as much as speed: summer-sown rocket leaves are fiercely peppery. Cooler nights soften it back toward something usable. Wild rocket has a narrower leaf and more heat. You can buy Organic Arugula Seeds from Eden Brothers for a nutty kick that matures in 28-40 days and also flourishes in large pots.

Thriving in zones 3-10, arugula prefers full sun and requires rich, moist soil with a pH between 6-7. Flea beetles are the biggest threat, so cover with a lightweight mesh. Plant alongside carrots or bush beans, which won't crowd its shallow roots. Protect dense growings from downy mildew with some Arber Biofungicide Spray from Walmart. Cut outer leaves for harvesting. One sowing can carry on for 6-8 weeks.

Eden Brothers Arugula Seeds (Organic Rocket)

2. French Breakfast Radishes

(Image credit: Maryna Laroshenko / Getty Images)

Radishes (Raphanus sativus) are the usual recommendation for a child's first crop, and the reason is timing. They take 3-4 days to germinate, and less than a month to be ready to pull. Little else in the garden moves that fast. Sow the French breakfast type instead of a globe. Crops come up tapered with a white tip, and stay milder in warm weather than the round sorts do. Snatch up packs of French Dressing Radish Seeds from Burpee for crunchy pink and white gems that mature in 25-35 days.

Thinning is the step nobody bothers with. Crowded radishes make tops and nothing below. Pull one at 20 days to check. An inch (2.5cm) between plants should do it. The thinnings can go in the bowl too, since the tops taste like mild mustard. Suitable for zones 2-11, radishes just need light, well-draining soil. Uneven watering can cause roots to crack or turn woody, so maintain consistent moisture.

Burpee French Dressing Radish Seeds

3. Mizuna and Tatsoi

(Image credit: Julia Sudnitskaya / Getty Images)

These Japanese greens, both forms of Brassica rapa, behave almost identically. Mizuna throws up feathery, deeply cut leaves with a faint mustard bite. Tatsoi makes a flat, glossy rosette that shrugs off frost. Both give baby leaves in 3 weeks and full heads in 6 weeks. You can buy Tatsoi Spoon Mustard Seeds from Eden Brothers for hearty Asian greens that mature in as little as 30 days, and Mountain Valley Seeds Red Streaks Mizuna from Amazon for a vigorous red and green leaf in 45 days.

Reliable in zones 4-9, they thrive in full sun or partial shade. Tatsoi is impressively cold-hardy, surviving to 15°F (-9°C). Flea beetles are the only problem, but throw a floating row cover over the bed at sowing time, and it won’t be an issue. The Hortifan Plant Cover from Amazon is great for repeat use. To harvest, shear baby leaves an inch above the ground or let the rosette mature for a single-harvest cooking green.

Mountain Valley Seed Company Mountain Valley Seed Co Organic Red Streaks Mizuna Seeds

4. Corn Salad (Mache)

(Image credit: Rouzes / Getty Images)

Corn salad (Valerianella locusta), or mache, rewards a little more waiting. Its seed sulks in hot ground, so the end of the month works better than the start. Performing best in zones 5-9, mâche requires soil temperatures below 68°F (20°C) to break dormancy, making late August and early September the sweet spot for sowing. What it gives back is cold tolerance: the small rosettes of soft, nutty leaves even keep going under snow. Buy minty sweet Ohio Heirloom Seeds Lamb’s Lettuce (Macha) from Amazon for frilly rosettes of nutritious leaves that mature in 40-45 days.

It tolerates poor soils well, but benefits from light, moist ground in full sun to partial shade. Pair with slow-growing winter brassicas or garlic, and avoid overwatering once established. It requires little feed and is largely ignored by late-season pests. Harvest the rosette with a knife just below the crown. Nothing else here will still be standing in February.

Ohio Heirloom Seeds Corn Salad Seeds by Ohio Heirloom Seeds

5. Land Cress

(Image credit: Dorling Kindersley Ltd / Alamy)

The sticking point with watercress is that its feet have to stay wet. Land cress (Barbarea verna) gives the same hot, peppery hit and grows in ordinary ground, which is why catalogs also sell it as upland cress. Either does fine in a pot sat in a saucer of water, topped up daily, but land cress gives you another option with veg bed gaps. Buy Tomorrow Seeds Upland Cress from Walmart for a zippy, vitamin-rich fresh green leaf machine that’s perfect for small spaces and containers.

Hardy in zones 5-9, land cress thrives in full shade where other greens struggle. It behaves as a biennial, often overwintering to produce spring greens before going to seed. Plant alongside moisture-loving herbs like mint or chives. Keep soil wet to maintain its crisp, peppery bite. Usable pickings follow within 5 weeks. Cut sprigs from the outside, and it regrows.

TomorrowSeeds Tomorrowseeds Upland Cress Seeds

6. Spinach

(Image credit: Istetiana / Getty Images)

Half-empty rows can often be the story with August spinach (Spinacia oleracea), as the seed can stop germinating reliably once the ground warms past a certain point. The fix is to cool the ground first to under 75°F (24°C). Place a shade cloth, like the Coolaroo 70% UV Block Shade Cloth from The Home Depot, over the bed for 4-5 days ahead of sowing, and you’re golden. After that it behaves, with baby leaves in around 30 days, then repeated cuttings from the outside right through fall.

Thriving in zones 3-9, spinach needs neutral-to-slightly alkaline soil (pH 6.5-7.5). Plant alongside radishes or strawberries to maximize space efficiency. Stick to deep watering to encourage strong taproots to withstand cold snaps. You can buy lush and hearty classic Heirloom Bloomsdale Long Standing Spinach from Burpee for a late summer fiesta of nutty goodness that is slow to bolt but quick to mature (40 days).

Burpee Bloomsdale Long Standing Spinach Seeds

7. Red Mustard

(Image credit: Mary Salen. Getty Images)

Deep purple over green, with veins darkening almost to black as the nights cool, is not a color combination the salad bowl often sees. Red mustard (Brassica juncea) earns its place on looks alone. Then there is the heat, which is close to horseradish and builds as leaves get bigger. Suitable for zones 4-10, it thrives in full sun and adapts well to most soil types if drainage is good. Try Red Giant Mustard from Eden Brothers for lush leaves that are bolt-resistant and take only 40 days to mature.

Baby leaves are ready in about 3 weeks, while plants left to size up can survive cold snaps that flatten everything around them. Excellent plant partners include onions, garlic, and rosemary, which help to deter brassica-loving pests. Harvest frequently using a cut-and-come-again approach, leaving the central growing point intact to ensure a steady supply of fresh, spicy foliage until heavy frosts set in.

Eden Brothers Red Giant Mustard Seeds

8. Claytonia

(Image credit: ImageBROKER Karin Jaehne / Getty Images)

Claytonia perfoliata makes small heart-shaped leaves on tender stems, each one eventually holding a little cup with a white flower at the center. Thriving in zones 4-9, claytonia prefers cool, damp, partially shaded conditions, making it ideal for tucked-away garden corners or under taller crops. Soil should be rich in leaf mold or compost and kept moist. Buy MYS Miner’s Lettuce Claytonia From Amazon for a rich vitamin load at a bargain price that should flourish well into winter.

This fast-growing salad green is ready in 40 days and is super-hardy, carrying on under a cloche long after the rest has stopped. It germinates better once the ground cools, like mache, so treat it as a late-August job. Plant with mâche or winter pansies in cold frames. Snip stems gently near the base to encourage multiple harvests, and allow a few plants to flower at season's end for free self-sown crops next year.

MYS Miner's Lettuce Seeds

(Image credit: Tim Gainey / Alamy)

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Fall-planted bulbs are such a simple, easy way to add drama to your garden. Plant them in autumn then forget all about them, and they’ll bring striking blooms to borders and patio containers all through spring into summer – and these are flowering plants that practically grow themselves. But here’s the thing: when new bulb varieties are introduced, there aren’t very many to go round. That’s for commercial reasons, to test the market and see if we gardeners are ready for diva-ruffle daffodils or modern-art alliums, but also because of the time it takes to produce large quantities of a fresh variety.

So, if you want to have the newest, most fabulous flowers in your garden, you need to buy your bulbs a good few weeks before it’s time to plant them. And if you look at any online retailer selling fall-planted bulbs, you’ll see that plenty are already sold out. And it's such an easy task to store bulbs. They'll arrive in a dormant state so it's as easy as popping them in breathable paper bags – Kraft brown paper lunch bags such as these from Amazon are perfect – and stashing in a cool, dark, dry spot with good air movement. A shed or garage is a good choice, or a spare bedroom if it’s baking hot outdoors; the ideal temperature is between 50 and 60°F.

And your reward for getting organised and buying bulbs early to plant in fall? Just take a look at these easy-to-grow beauties, all offering plenty of blooms for your bucks, and all raised from bulbs that can be planted in fall. Some are brand new cultivars, others are fresh to the US market, so you can be sure they’ll grab everyone’s attention in your garden.

Top 10 New Bulbs to Order in August for Fall Planting1. The Rare Tulip that Stops Everyone in Their Tracks

Tulip Strawberry Cream (10 Bulbs)

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers mid-late spring
• Grows 24" high

Grow this amazing tulip and prepare to be dazzled! Tulipa ‘Strawberry Cream’ starts off looking like a perfectly ordinary tulip, albeit a green one. But then layer upon layer of sugar-pink petals start to peek though, creating this incredible dome shape. And – there’s more! – the flowers finally splay open, looking far more like roses than tulips. Despite its fancy appearance, this rare bulb is easy to grow, making it one of the best tulips to add to your garden this year.

2. The Allium with Crazy Attitude

Allium Art (25 Bulbs)

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers May-June
• Grows to 20" high

We all went wild for Allium ‘Hair’ (available from Dutch Grown) with its curious crown of green tepals when it was introduced by Dutch breeders, and now there’s a new kid on the block hailing from the Netherlands. Allium scorodoprasum ‘Art’ grows its small purple flowers on the ends of long, wiry stems. Butterflies adore alliums, so expect those blooms to be regularly topped with some colorful wings, too. With each flower lasting 2-4 weeks, and the structural seedheads for months more, these bulbs offer great value for garden space as well as your hard-earned dollars.

3. The Daffodil with Diva Ruffles

Daffodil Bellabombe (10 Bulbs)

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers mid-late spring
• Grows 18-20" high

If Lady Gaga were a daffodil, she would undoubtedly be Narcissus 'Bellabombe'. With extravagant bursts of petals in peach and apricot-yellow tones layered like an over-the-top tulle gown, this flamboyant bloom sure likes to be the center of attention. Leave the green leaves to die back naturally so they can feed the bulb, and this perennial has staying power, returning year after year for another fabulous show, and it will become one of the best daffodils in your yard. It lasts well in a vase so makes a great cut flower, which will allow you appreciate its delicate fragrance, too.

4. The Anemone that’s Highly Prized by Florists

Anemone Fullstar Red/White (10 Bulbs)

• Zones 7-10 (2-6 if overwintered indoors)
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers early-mid spring
• Grows 18" high

You can understand why florists are falling over themselves to get hold of this joyful anemone. It’s a double-flowered variety with densely-layered petals in a dream combination of blush white to coral red, and stems lasts for over a week in a vase. And will you just look at that dramatically dark center! Happy in pots as well as well-drained borders, the filigree foliage of Anemone Fullstar Red/White is pretty, too. While it’s hardy in zones 7-10, by growing in a pot you can easily overwinter it indoors in cooler climes.

5. The Tulip that Thinks it’s a Peony

Tulip Mystery Dream (10 Bulbs)

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun
• Flowers April-May
• Grows to 20" high

Imagine if your front yard was full of these eye-catcher tulips that look just like peonies: all your neighbors would want to know what they are! Tulipa ‘Mystery Dream’ does indeed look like a tulip that was conjured up in dreamland, with double petals that shift color in changing light from a velvety magenta to almost black. They make excellent cut flowers, too, so plant plenty.

6. The Bulb No-One's Ever Heard Of

Scilla Peruviana (2 Bulbs)

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers late spring-early summer
• Grows 6-12" high

Have you ever seen this blue bombshell before? Because if you have, I’ll be very surprised! Scilla peruviana, the Portuguese squill, grows dome-shaped clusters of star-shaped flowers in the most glorious violet-blue hue. Because each flower blooms from the outside, inwards, this is a treat that lasts for weeks, and the foliage is a wonderfully fresh green that’s just perfect in a late-spring garden. The plant is smaller than you might imagine, and each bulb grows one flower, so plant plenty, along border edges and in patio pots, or use them to underplant bigger perennials that enjoy the same well-draining conditions.

7. The Candy-Cane Oxalis that Unfurls in the Sun

Oxalis Versicolor (10 Bulbs)

• Zones 7-9 (2-6 if overwintered indoors)
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers spring, summer and fall
• Grows to 8-12" high

This little firecracker may only grow to a handspan height but, boy, it’s a feisty flower unlike any other. For a start, its blooms have white petals edged in red, giving a striped candy-cane appearance when closed – and because these flowers only open in full sun, they regularly unfurl then return to this fabulous funnel shape. While they’re only fully hardy in zones 7-9, Oxalis Versicolor is a cracking choice for a patio coffee-table pot, and growing it in a container means you can easily overwinter it in a warmer spot.

8. The Whimsical Crocus that Graces Winter’s End

Crocus Whale Shark (25 Bulbs)

• Zones 4-8
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers late winter-early spring
• Grows 4" high

The level of elegant beauty Crocus ‘Whale Shark’ brings to a late-winter garden far outweighs its diminutive size. Though it only reaches 4 inches high, the flowers account for pretty much its entire height and purple petals are brushed with a silvery white that’s simply divine. It blooms earlier than most crocus so pop this little gem at the front of borders, in pots and under trees and it will cheer up those short end-of-winter days a treat. Add groups to your lawn, too, as you won’t be mowing your grass at this time of the year.

9. The Tiny Tulip with a Huge Personality

Tulip Little Beauty (25 Bulbs)

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers mid-late spring
• Grows 4-6" high

Yes, yes, this tiny tulip only reaches 6 inches high, but don’t let that fool you. Tulipa ‘Little Beauty’ brings a riot of color in spring with hot-pink petals around an azure blue center. And, because flowers close up every night into tight buds to protect pollen until day-flying pollinators return, and may not open at all on cloudy or rainy days, the vibrant show is a real treat. A reliable perennial, Tulip ‘Little Beauty’ slowly multiplies so you can easily create naturalized drifts in your lawn.

10. The Exquisitely Elegant Deep Burgundy Allium

Allium Atropurpureum (10 Bulbs)

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers May-June
• Grows to 34" high

Alliums are some of the best bulbs to grow in your garden if you like plenty of bloom for your buck, as plants require little to no maintenance and by growing a few varieties, you can have flowers all through summer. Favorites include six-foot-tall July bloomer ‘Summer Drummer’ (available from Dutch Grown) and the pretty little bobbing balls of Allium Sphaerocephalon (also available from Dutch Grown) – but their color palette is firmly centred around violet.

Allium atropurpurem, however, is the most exquisite burgundy tone that somehow manages to be both dark and vibrant at the same time, making it a firm contender to join the list of best alliums to grow. Originating from Eastern Europe, this exotic beauty has seriously sturdy stems so while the flowers are over by the end of June, the seedheads bring texture to borders for months more.

When to Plant Bulbs in Fall

The exact best time to plant depends on the bulb and your zone. Bulbs are best put into the ground when soil temperatures drop consistently below 55°F, which is easy to measure with a simple soil thermometer like this $12 temperature probe from Walmart. This is typically around 6 weeks before your first frost.

Spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils and crocus do best if they’re put into the ground by the end of September so they have time to start growing roots. Late-spring and summer-flowering bulbs like to get into the ground in September or October, while tulips are better planted a little later in November.

(Image credit: Nicola Stockden / Gardenpix Ltd)How to Plant Bulbs in Fall

• The biggest secret to planting bulbs in fall is excellent drainage because, left to sit in soggy soil all winter, they can rot. That’s easily achieved by mixing coarse sand, fine gravel or horticultural grit such as Jacks Gritty Mix from Walmart into soil before planting, whether that’s in a pot or the ground.

(Image credit: Nicola Stockden / Gardenpix Ltd)

• Pick a sunny spot. Nearly all fall-planted bulbs need plenty of sun – while some will tolerate partial shade, they need sunshine for part of the day.
• Plant bulbs two or three times their own height, and twice the bulbs’ width apart. So, a bulb that’s 3 inches high and wide would need to be planted 6-9 inches deep and around 6 inches apart. In a container, you can reduce the spacing to one bulb-width apart.

(Image credit: Nicola Stockden / Gardenpix Ltd)

• If you’re planting multiple bulbs in the ground, a bulb planter speeds the process. For bigger bulbs, a hand-held tool such as the Zenport Bulb Planter from Lowe’s is best, and long-handled stand-up bulb planters are also available from Lowe’s. Another speedy option is to use an auger such as this from Amazon which attaches to a standard 3/8" hex drive drill, to create the planting holes. If you’re planting drifts of small bulbs in a lawn, then a tool that removes plugs such as this ProPlugger bulb planter from Lowe’s is a better option.
• Place the bulb in the hole, pointy-end up, and fill with soil, firming with hands or the back of a rake. There’s no need to water in when planting bulbs in fall.

(Image credit: Nicola Stockden / Gardenpix Ltd)

• We've chosen to recommend bulbs from Dutch Grown because they come with a 100% grow guarantee.

If you live in an area that gets wildfires, you take steps to keep fire away. You don’t burn your trash, you don’t let your kids play with matches, and you don’t install highly flammable plants in the landscape. We’ve all seen photos of flames racing through pine forests, even during the growing season.

As you work in the back yard this year, think about firescaping your lawn and garden. There are few absolutes in life, and there’s not a single plant that is 100 percent fireproof. But swapping out plants that burn easily with plants that don’t simply makes sense.

Let's explore which plants you should avoid and what plants to use instead.

Replacing Flammable Plants

Late summer and fall are good times to do some revisions in the garden to make your landscape less fire-prone. Although summer is a big fire season, autumn is too, as green leaves dry and fall, creating masses of flammable groundcover.

We’ve identified five of the plants you don’t want in your garden during wildfire season. But don’t think we’ll leave you with a bare landscape. We’ve found a great replacement for each flammable shrub you remove.

1. Pine Trees

(Image credit: Meunierd / Shutterstock)

This might not sit well with the kids, but it’s time to say goodbye to all those living Christmas trees – pine or spruce – that you’ve replanted in the yard. Most conifers have needles that contain oils and resins. Pine needles, bark, and wood contain volatile, sticky compounds that burn hot and fast. Firefighters are known to call these trees “fire food”, and they are definitely not the trees you want to have in the backyard as a wildfire approaches.

Pines (Pinus spp.) tend to have low-hanging branches. These act as “fire ladders” to bring ground fires up and into the crowns of the trees. The other problem with these conifers is that they drop dead needles to the ground below them. While pine needles are considered good mulch for acid-loving plants, they are also highly flammable. These dry mats of needles catch fire easily and serve as great fuel for surface fires.

Finally, there are those cool cones. In France, people collect pine cones to use to start the wood fires in their stoves, which is to say that pine cones burn readily too. And in the wild, the burning cones can explode, sending glowing embers flying long distances in the breeze.

Plant Instead: Coast Redwood

(Image credit: Stuart Walmsley / Getty Images)

Now not everyone can grow coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens), but if you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 7-9 in a climate that has mild wet winters and deep-soil moisture, this is your best substitute for pine trees or any conifer. While pines and spruce trees have flammable resins in their needles and bark, redwoods do not. They have developed thick, tannin-rich bark and high moisture content that resist fire. You can grow your own redwood with this kit from Tractor Supply.

2. Rosemary

(Image credit: Toni Jardon / Getty Images)

Many of my friends plant rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) to use for cooking, but I am not among them. I planted a few rosemary bushes for the gorgeous and unexpected indigo flowers and because these herbs never seem to need human attention. In fact, rosemary seems to resent it if you give it water, which makes sense given its native environment in the toasty, dry Mediterranean region of Europe.

But I’ve learned that rosemary (and lavender for that matter) contain oils that are super flammable. Those oils are why they have such a strong, appealing smell. That means that large aromatic bushes can ignite in record time during periods of drought or extreme heat. They are highly combustible.

Plant Instead: Bush Germander

(Image credit: Zummolo / Getty Images)

Bush germander (Teucrium fruticans) is a similar, tough plant with aromatic leaves as well as blue summer flowers, and it’s native to the Mediterranean region as well. But this plant is a spreading evergreen shrub in the mint family, containing no volatile oils. That means it doesn’t burn easily. It grows to 3 feet (1 m) tall and twice that wide, offering arching, soft shoots and shiny leaves. Like rosemary, bush germander likes a full sun location, tolerates poor soil, and requires little water.

3. Juniper

(Image credit: Rizky Panuntun / Getty Images)

Junipers (Juniperus spp.) have short green needles that are tightly crowded on the twigs. Some varieties are tall shrubs, but many forms of juniper make good ground cover plants in hot, sunny sites.

But they might be the most flammable of garden plants, having a very high content of volatile resins and oils. They also hold onto their dead inner needles inside the dense crown and this accumulation can ignite rapidly and burn with high-heat flames that can ignite structures in the vicinity. They are sometimes called “gasoline bushes” by firefighters. They ignite so explosively that they should be eliminated from any garden in a zone with a high wildfire risk.

Plant Instead: Coyote Brush

(Image credit: Sundry Photography / Shutterstock)

Coyote brush, also called coyote bush, looks a bit like juniper. It’s a hardy evergreen shrub that grows in a variety of dry areas ranging from sand dunes to dry mountain slopes. Like juniper, coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis) comes in upright, shrubby forms and low, spreading forms. No variety has resins and many, like dwarf variety Twin Peaks, are wonderfully dense and fire-resistant groundcover. Coyote brush seeds can be purchased from Sleepy Cat Natives on Etsy.

4. Bamboo

(Image credit: jia yu / Getty Images)

Many people plant bamboo in the landscape as a screen or hedge, but is it a fire hazard? Yes it is.

Seeing bamboo (Bambusa vulgaris) on this flammable list may surprise you, since a live bamboo cane is virtually impossible to burn. An individual live cane will have high silica and water content, making it hard to burn. But the cane quickly loses its moisture during dry, hot, windy weather. And bamboo forms tight clumps of compact clusters of stems that collect dead material, dry leaf litter, fine twig fuel, and dead interior stalks. This creates a serious fire hazard during times of drought and heat.

Plant Instead: Fern Podocarpus

(Image credit: Photography By Tonelson / Getty Images)

Fern Podocarpus, also known as fern pine, is a great alternative to flammable bamboo. Like bamboo, it can grow quite tall - to 50 feet (16m) - but can be kept smaller with regular pruning. It has narrow, soft leaves that have a high moisture content and does not accumulate dead inner leaves. Unlike bamboo, Podocarpus (Podocarpus gracilior or Afrocarpus gracilior) lacks explosive, heavy resins or volatile oils that feed fast-moving crown fires. Fern pines can be purchased from TropicalPlantsFL on Etsy.

5. Pampas Grass

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Pampas grass is a tall, popular ornamental grass native to South America. It is known for its gigantic clumps and large, pale, feathery plumes. It can grow taller than the gardener, thrives in full sun, and is widely used in landscaping. But it is known as a fire enabler, thanks to its low moisture content, and volatile oils. Even its growth pattern makes it dangerous in fire-territory, since its airy vertical growth is flammable, easy to ignite, and can become fire torches.

Plant Instead: Pink Muhly Grass

(Image credit: inho Lee / Getty Images)

If you are taking out pampas grass, you’ll want to replace it with a safer, fire-smart option that still gives you a vertical accent and soft texture. We suggest pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris). It grows in clumps to 3 feet (1 m) tall, offering soft, airy pink flowers. The blooms are lovely, often compared to clouds or plumes. This is a low-ignition, high-moisture perennial that - like pampas grass - grows in full sun locations, but doesn’t present a fire danger. Pink muhly grass can be shipped straight to your door from Garden Goods Direct.

A prolific bloomer, zinnias are long-favored by both pollinators and gardeners for their brilliant color and lasting appeal. If you’re growing zinnias for the first time, you are certain to find delight in their ease of growth and ability to persist throughout the entire summer season.

Zinnia flowers (Zinnia elegans) are a colorful and long-lasting addition to the flower garden. Once you learn how to plant zinnias for your area, you'll be able to add this popular annual to sunny areas that benefit from their perky blooms.

This guide aims to explore the needs of this classic annual flower in greater detail to help you keep plants looking their absolute best and blooming all summer.

Quick Zinnia Facts

Botanical Name

Zinnia elegans

Plant Type

Annual

Height

12-48 in (30-122 cm)

Spread

6-18 in (15-46 cm)

Light

Full sun

Soil

Well-draining

Hardiness

USDA zones 2-11 (Not in the US? Convert your zone)

Flowers

Summer to first frost

Native Range

Mexico, Central America

(Image credit: Getty Images)Planting

If you're looking to add some bright color, grow some zinnia flowers in your summer garden this year. Here's what they need to thrive and how to start plants from seed.

Soil Requirements

When provided with good drainage and fertility, zinnias are adapted to a wide range of soil types. This includes those that are neutral, slightly acidic, or even slightly alkaline. Plants do well to tolerate varying soil compositions, including those that are sandy or consist of heavy clay.

Light Requirements

Zinnias grow best in beds that receive at least 6-8 hours of sun each day, often preferring much more. Ample light will aid in the production of strong stems, and large numbers of flowers.

Some shade, throughout the hottest parts of the afternoon, can be beneficial to plants where summer temperatures often climb. It should be noted, however, that excess shade may result in poor flower production and stems that are weak or leggy.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)Temperature & Humidity

Most zinnias found in the garden are considered tender annuals. This means that they grow best where conditions are warm and are unable to withstand cooler temperatures. Ideal temperatures for growth range between 70-85°F (21-29°C) during the day and no less than 60°F (15°C) throughout the night.

Though zinnias are heatwave-proof and able to tolerate brief periods of high humidity, prolonged moisture or poor circulation can lead to the development of disease.

Planting Step-by-Step

Though planting zinnia seeds is relatively simple, knowing when and how will be essential to success. You generally have two options: growing zinnia from seed indoors or planting zinnia seeds outside.

If you want to sow zinnia seeds inside, you should do so approximately 2-3 weeks before the last frost date in your local area. This will allow ample time for germination, but prevent seedlings from growing too large before they are ready to be moved into the garden. Keep trays in a warm, sunny window or under lights until the seeds begin to sprout.

Seeds can also be sown directly into prepared beds. This is best done after the soil has warmed and all chances of frost have passed. New plantings should be watered well and kept consistently moist until germination can occur, in approximately 5-7 days.

(Image credit: Verediana Hille / Shutterstock)Zinnia Care

Once you plant your zinnias, it's time to learn how to care for them so they thrive and produce blooms that last all summer long. Here's what you need to know about caring for zinnias in the garden.

Watering

After planting, zinnia beds should be kept consistently moist. Established plants will prove themselves much more water-wise, withstanding brief periods of drought with relative ease. Though rainfall is usually more than sufficient in meeting the needs of zinnia plants, weekly irrigation may be required where conditions are especially hot or dry.

Water zinnias at the base of the plant. A soaker hose, like this affordable option from Walmart, is ideal for keeping foliage and petals dry while providing much needed irrigation. The best time to water plants is early morning, which allows the foliage and flowers ample time to dry off before nightfall.

(Image credit: Olga Yastremska / Getty Images)Fertilizing

The addition of a well-balanced feed, compost, and other amendments into the soil at planting is usually more than enough to see zinnias through a successful season.

Beyond planting, zinnia beds will only seldom require the use of fertilizers, with the exception of those with particularly poor fertility. If you want to encourage extra blooming, you can continue to feed plants on a monthly basis with the use of a fast-acting and bloom-boosting fertilizer, like this organic plant food from Espoma.

Pruning

Plants are beloved among those growing zinnias for cut flowers for their “cut-and-come-again” habit. Simply put, the more flowers that are cut from plants, the more each will produce. This makes deadheading, or the removal of spent blooms, an especially important aspect of zinnia care.

In addition to prolonging the production of the flowers, clipping faded buds will help to keep beds tidy and prevent the plant from going to seed. Though zinnias do not require traditional pruning, many gardeners choose to pinch plants early, which promotes branching and bushy growth.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Varieties

There are a huge array of different zinnia varieties available as both seeds and plants. You can explore dozens of different zinnia seeds and plants for sale from Burpee. But here are a few common types to try growing in your garden.

• ‘Benary’s Giant Series’ Celebrated as a cut flower, the Benary’s Giant Series produces large, showy blooms in a wide range of colors. Held atop strong stems, the cultivar is ideal for use in bouquets and boasts an impressive vase life. Available colors include pink, coral, red, lime, and many more.
• ‘Oklahoma Series’ Producing small, button-like blooms, the Oklahoma Series zinnia is ideal for cutting and pollinator gardens alike. Fully-double flowers are highly ornamental and attract hummingbirds with ease. Plants are available in a wide range of color, with salmon among the most popular.
• ‘Queeny Series’ The Queeny Series is known for its incredible double form and unique palette. Truly unlike any other, gardeners can expect plants to produce flowers in vibrant shades of lime, orange, pastel, and rosy pink.

Propagation

Those hoping to propagate the plant most commonly do so by growing zinnia from seed. This is most beneficial when increasing numbers of heirloom or open-pollinated types. A variety of cultivars can be found at garden centers in spring, though you may prefer to save your own zinnia seeds to grow your collection for free.

Though much less common, you can also propagate zinnias by cuttings. Small stem segments are removed from plants in spring, prepared, and placed into a damp rooting medium. With consistent warmth, humidity, and moisture, growers can expect rooting to occur in approximately 2-4 weeks.

(Image credit: Ade Andriyani / Shutterstock)Common Problems

Though most would consider the plant easy to grow, they are affected by several common garden diseases. Most prevalent among these are powdery mildew, leaf spot, and various other fungal infections. These are most likely to develop as the result of weather, poor air circulation, or haphazard watering.

To help prevent common zinnia problems, you should allow ample space between plants and water each carefully to avoid wetting or splashing foliage. Though zinnias are only rarely affected by pests, aphids and Japanese beetles can be causes for concern. Neem oil or insecticidal soap, both of which you can get from Amazon, can help with these pests.

Frequently Asked QuestionsCan I Grow Zinnias In Containers?

Though more traditional types are often ill-suited to growth in containers, newer hybrids are ideal. In fact, many dwarf varieties are considered to be prolific bloomers. Seeds of this type can be planted into containers as soon as the weather has warmed in spring. Provided good soil, ample light, and consistent moisture, gardeners can expect container-grown plants to flourish throughout the entirety of summer.

How Do I Keep Zinnias Blooming?

Zinnias are celebrated for their “cut-and-come-again” growth habit. Though plants that have been left unattended will continue to flower throughout summer, deadheading can greatly increase the quality and quantity of blooms.

Zinnia Care Must-Haves

Home Grown Zinnia Dahlia Seeds Pack

Grow huge dahlia-like blooms with these stunning zinnia seeds.

Burpee Superseed 36-Cell Tray

This reusable tray makes starting zinnia seeds easy year after year.

SEWANTA 2 Hummingbird Feeders for Outdoors

Hummingbirds will flock to your yard for the zinnias. Give them an extra treat with these feeders.

Whether you are growing pumpkins for Jack o’ lanterns, fall decor, fairs, or food, now is the time to push that extra oomph to ensure a bountiful autumn harvest. August may be a challenge in your area due to excessive heat, drought periods, or an increase in bug and disease activity. That is why it is important to keep up with consistent watering, proper feeding, and insect scrutiny this month.

The vines should have ample fruit set by now so it’s important to support their development in the final stretch rather than coaxing more fruit or leaves. Decreasing nitrogen fertilizer and ramping up the potassium will focus plant energy on the developing fruit.

Growing pumpkins doesn’t need to be overwhelming, but following a few tried-and-true suggestions will keep your pumpkins from withering on the vine or becoming a bug buffet.

What to Do for Pumpkins in August

Here are four tasks to perform in August to keep your pumpkins on the right track to maturity and harvest.

1. Water Deeply

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Water pumpkins deeply once or twice a week. They need from 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) per week. Pumpkins are 90 percent water, so keeping up with consistent watering will ensure your pumpkin vines are hydrated and can carry nutrients from the soil to the pumpkins.

Water will prevent leaf wilt and stress, but often wilting pumpkin leaves occur on hot afternoons then perk up in the evening. If they don’t perk up by morning, there is cause to suspect vine borers.

Always water from below and keep the water from splashing on the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. Drip irrigation is ideal. Content Editor Laura has used this easy-to-install drip irrigation kit from Home Depot for years and loves it.

Cleaning up the vines and removing them to the trash at the end of the season also will help prevent fungal spores from overwintering in the debris. To keep the fruit dry and rot free, place a thin board, shingle, tile, or stone under developing fruit. Also, carefully rotating the pumpkins every week or two keeps them developing evenly.

2. Reduce Nitrogen Fertilizer

(Image credit: Iryna Inshyna / Getty Images)

The pumpkin vines are already set with fruit by now. They do not need more vegetative growth, but they do need a potassium boost to support strong stems and fruit quality.

If you have been fertilizing pumpkins regularly, reduce the nitrogen from now on and supplement with a fertilizer that's higher in potassium, like this one from Espoma on Amazon. Or you can sidedress the pumpkin patch with compost to enrich the soil.

About 4 to 6 weeks before you expect to harvest, stop all feeding so the pumpkins focus on ripening.

3. Monitor for Insects & Disease

(Image credit: Michael LaMonica / Shutterstock)

Squash bugs, squash vine borers, and powdery mildew are still a threat to pumpkins in late summer. Check the undersides of leaves for orange to red squash bug eggs or the grayish adults. Pick off these common pumpkin pests when you see them and drop them in a bowl of soapy water. They will be slower in the early morning. Lightly squash the eggs or remove them with masking tape.

Vines that stay limp likely have a squash vine borer tunneling inside the vines. Inspect the limp vine for an entry hole with frass below. If there is only one entrance, you may be able to save the vine by removing the larva.

Using a clean blade, make a vertical cut an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) from the entry hole. If you see the larva, remove it, kill it, and cover the cut with soil. With any luck new roots will grow at the nearest node. If unsuccessful, remove the failing vine so the borers do not pupate in the ground to emerge next year.

Powdery mildew thrives in humid, shady conditions and is characterized by a white, powdery substance on the leaves. Keeping water off the leaves helps with prevention. But once the problem starts, you can’t cure it. However, you can stop it from spreading.

Remove the leaves that are most infected with the mildew and increase air circulation. There are organic and chemical controls available, but they work better when used as a prevention. You can use a sulfur-based fungicide now, according to label directions, to stop the spread. This copper fungicide from Bonide on Amazon is another good choice.

Powdery mildew doesn’t usually kill the vines, but it is unsightly. If powdery mildew is a problem every year, you might consider starting a spray program before it starts or at the initial onset until the humid weather subsides. Some resistant pumpkin varieties are available, too.

4. Stop New Fruit Production

(Image credit: Georgiy Datsenko / Getty Images)

To stop any new pumpkin production that probably won't mature by fall anyway, pinch off new female flowers and new growing tips at the end of main vines. Female flowers have a bulbous growth below the petals. Pruning pumpkins this way redirects energy to the existing squash.

Any new fruit that sets after mid-August should be removed as well. This forces the plant to focus its energy on ripening the existing fruit and encourages bigger pumpkins. Though you may be sacrificing more squash, each pumpkin will be larger.

Pumpkins are a popular and fun plant to grow, and providing consistent water, feeding, and vigilant care right up until pumpkin harvesting time will ensure your squash make it to the finish line.

Some plant pairings become classics for good reason, and asters with sedum is one of those great combinations that just always seems to work. In my garden, these vibrant perennials don’t even hit their stride until summer starts to wind down. Then, they fill borders with gorgeously rich color while providing a vital food source for pollinators when the rest of the garden has faded.

What I particularly love about this newest addition to our Plant Matchmaker series is that, while the plants look completely different, they make each other look better – it’s soft abundance meets bold structure. The upright sedum (Hylotelephium), also known as stonecrop, produces broad, flattened flowerheads packed with tiny flowers, while asters bloom with clouds of delicate daisies on slender branching stems.

As both plants peak in late summer and fall, they offer a brilliant final display of color. But the pairing isn’t all about flowering time – both plants thrive in sunny borders and are inherently low-maintenance, requiring little effort once established.

Which Varieties to Choose

While there are numerous varieties of these plants you can mix and match, it’s hard to go wrong with the ever-popular ‘Autumn Joy’ sedum, available from Plant Addicts. It’s a staple in my garden. Yes, it’s a predictable choice, but it’s popular for a reason and never puts a foot wrong.

Other winning sedum options include the richly hued Mr. Goodbud sedum, from Nature Hills; Rock N Grow Back in Black sedum, from Plant Addicts, for a more dramatic color contrast; or, for extra height in the border, pastel-pink Matrona.

Autumn Joy Stonecrop Sedum

Plants That Work Mr. Goodbud Sedum

Proven Winners Rock N Grow® Back in Black Sedum

For asters, I grow the amellus type – aka Italian aster – which is naturally neater and more compact at around 1–2 ft tall, with lovely large lilac-blue daisies. But as long as you avoid an excessive height difference between the two plants, there is a huge range to choose from.

In particular, compact dwarf varieties – like the purple October Skies asters, available at Plant Addicts, or pink Woods Pink asters from Garden Goods Direct – work well in this pairing as they are more balanced with the sedum. But even a taller variety like New England asters, which you can start from seed with this Kviter pack from Amazon, can work when the sedum is used to disguise the legginess of the asters.

Flowers can range from classic daisy forms to unusual types that look like cornflowers (see Peachie's Pick Stokes asters at Plant Addicts), zinnias (like these bold pink Henry III asters), or even mums (like this gorgeous Grape Crush variety from Nature Hills).

American Beauties Native Plants October Skies Aster

Proven Winners Henry™ III Pink Aster

Plants That Work Grape Crush New England Aster

Why Sedum and Asters Work Together

There is something so joyous about the colorful combination of sedum and asters. The warm pink, bronze, or red tones of tall stonecrop flower heads contrast and harmonize beautifully with the purple or pink daisy-like blooms of aster, while the yellow centers of the asters add a lovely sunny accent.

Yet, the biggest reason this pairing works so well is the plants’ form. Sedum is such a strong structural plant, while asters are looser and wilder. The architectural form of the stonecrop is softened by the frothy asters, keeping the overall look neat but natural.

When planting, avoid isolated single plants or an ordered alternating pattern. They will look more natural planted in loose groups. Position taller asters towards the back and use sedums to form generous forms in front. Dwarf asters give more flexibility for positioning. Let the edges of the plants mingle slightly. In large borders, repeat the plant combination at intervals for good design rhythm.

(Image credit: Alamy)How to Grow Them Together

As well as looking good together, stonecrop and asters have compatible growing requirements. Both thrive in full sun and well-draining soil. There are sedums and asters suitable for gardens across a broad range of USDA zones, although exact hardiness varies somewhat by species and cultivar. Certainly, there are options to make this pairing work in zones 3–8.

The main consideration is moisture. Sedums are tough, drought-tolerant perennials that dislike wet, rich soil, while many asters appreciate more consistent moisture. A moderately fertile, free-draining site that doesn't stay soggy is a good compromise. Neither plant needs heavy feeding, either, and overly rich soil can encourage soft, floppy growth.

As flowering winds down, don't be too quick to cut the plants back. Asters are an important late-season nectar source, while the fading flowerheads of sedum continue to change color and add interest long after the blooms have peaked. If you leave the spent stems standing through winter, cut them back before fresh growth begins in spring.

The architectural flower heads of Autumn Joy can persist well into winter, adding structure and color to an otherwise sparse garden. Cut them back before new growth begins in spring.

It’s this long season of interest that makes sedum and asters such an enduring fall combination. They take over when most summer stars are beginning to fade and ensure the garden heads into fall with a flourish.

More Plant Matchmaker Articles

• This Dreamy Combination Shines Late in the Season
• These Fiery Perennials Make Borders Glow Into Fall

Budget resin planters have revolutionized patio style, bringing good looks for a lot less bucks. I’m old enough to remember the days when gardeners faced a stark choice between handsome but heavy and expensive ceramic and terracotta pots, or cheap, flimsy and pretty ugly plastic containers. Happily, resin combines the best of both, giving us containers that are light yet durable, stylish yet affordable. As patio ideas go, resin planters are a must.

So what is resin? Resin used for budget planters is typically made from synthetic polymers so it's easily molded, allowing decorative accents to be added. But the real game-changer of resin is that all sorts of mineral powders and pigments can be mixed with the polymers during manufacture. This means it's possible to mimic the look and texture of stone, terracotta and many other natural materials at a fraction of the price of the real thing. Strong colors and glossy or ultra-matt finishes are all economical to achieve, too.

The Belavi Large Resin Planters that just dropped in ALDI today are a great example of the cost difference, which can quickly add up if you're container gardening on any scale. Large planters like these would be prohibitively expensive if they were made from a traditional material. In resin, however, they're a snip at $9.99. In sleek black, elegant off-white and a rich burgundy with attractive molding, these middle aisle finds are just the excuse I've been looking for to give my patio a freshen-up and plant some more fall bloomers.

Black

Belavi Large Resin Planter

White

Belavi Large Resin Planter

BURGUNDY

Belavi Large Resin Planter

Creative August Ideas for Your New Planter

Adding a few new cheap planters to your patio or deck now will give your garden a boost – and if your yard is anything like mine, it’s starting to look a little tired in this heatwave summer. Planting some late-season heroes that’ll flower enthusiastically all the way into fall will quickly solve that issue and keep your garden packed with petals for months to come. Plenty of fall-flowering clematis are compact enough to grow in a large planter, too. For enduring color that you’ll enjoy for months to come, another smart move in August would be to take advantage of many staple perennials being discounted as we head towards the end of summer, and pick up some of the best perennial plants for patio pots at bargain prices.

Order striking new spring- and summer-flowering bulbs before they sell out, and use your new planter to create a bulb lasagna. Starting a patio veg patch is another of our quick and clever container gardening ideas you can achieve on a budget.

Fancy something a little different? Because they’re not porous, large resin planters can be used to make a stylish garden micropond by sealing the drainage hole with a marine silicone sealant like this from Amazon. Or how about pairing your plugged planter with a cheap solar-powered floating fountain to DIY a striking water feature? Because these Aldi planters are such a great price, you can afford a few and get creative.

(Image credit: ALDI/Future)More Great-Value Big Resin Planters

Resin containers are getting so popular, there are plenty of budget dupes of big-brand planters. So don't worry if you don’t make it to the middle aisle in time, you don’t have to miss out on great value large planters.

Woodgrain texture

Whiskey Barrel Resin Planter

Made of recycled resin, this whiskey-barrel planter has a diameter of 19.9" and has knock-out drainage holes.

stone alternative

Veradek Sand Resin Planter

Made with a composite of plastic and real stone powder, this Canadian-made 15" planter survives outside to -20°F.

Marbled effect

Ella Tall Resin Planter

Measuring 19.5" tall, this marbled resin Artstone planter boasts a self-watering system and is made in the USA.

Faux-ceramic chic

Asti Tall White Resin Planter

Measuring 16.1" wide and 20.1" high, this recycled resin planter has knock-out drainage holes for use inside and out.

Terracotta vibes

20" Lima Planter

This ridged resin planter doesn’t have a drainage hole (but can be drilled) so it’s perfect to make a micropond.

Stoneware style

Grosfillex Kylemore Planter

Made from resin with a hand-painted mineral finish to resemble stoneware, this 20" urn planter is highly durable.

It has officially been one of the hottest and driest summers on record, so of course I decided this was the year to expand my veg patch. Of course I did. (Not to get too Taylor Swift about it, but hi, it’s me, I’m the problem, it’s me.) And while giving my family that farm-to-table lifestyle has been incredibly rewarding, it has also made me realise just how much watering it takes to grow your own.

This means that I’ve been saving rainwater and pasta water like a madwoman, lugging hoses across the garden and desperately trying to keep everything alive. Somewhere between worrying about whether my stubbornly green tomatoes are getting enough water and trying to keep everything else from giving up the ghost, I started wondering whether there might be an easier way to grow vegetables.

And guess what? There is! It might be too late for me this year, but I have discovered the Garden In Minutes’ All-In-One Raised Garden Bundle and will be making the upgrade for next year's veggies.

I Wish I’d Discovered This All-in-One Raised Bed Sooner

Before planting my crops this year, I had toyed with the idea of raised beds and irrigation systems to make planting, watering and harvesting easier. But after costing DIY options that were coming out well over $500, I gave up on the idea.

So, when I saw this nifty little All-In-One Raised 2x2 Garden Bundle starting from a sweet $229.50 I had to know more. As the name suggests, the simple setup can be built and ready to water in minutes. It has the bonus of not having to give yourself a headache hunting down a raised bed, a watering system, and a garden grid manifold that work together, too.

The result? Well, you get a dedicated growing space for your veggies, planting is easier to organize, and it takes a lot of the legwork out of watering. In other words, instead of me wandering around the garden with a hose like a lacklustre cowgirl with a lasso, the watering is built right into the setup. Yee-ha!

Garden In Minutes® 17" Tall, 2x6ft All-In-One Raised Garden Bundles

The 2x6ft grid is the perfect size for at least 32 plants and offers consistent watering, so nothing gets neglected. You can also connect the beds together for larger plots. They come in 2 different heights and 8 different sizes.

As someone who painstakingly measures everything out myself by hand, I also love that the grid itself creates square and very clearly defined planting sections. It means I know exactly how much space to leave between everything (think of the time I could have saved!).

It's a the kind of raised bed that looks just as pretty as it is practical (there's plenty of room for roots to grow, and the open-bottom design helps with drainage, which means your plants aren't just sitting in soggy soil for days on end). And this isn’t one of those gardening purchases that feels destined to be replaced after a couple of seasons, either, as the bed has been made to withstand heat, sun and cold all year-round.

The All-in-One Raised Bundles come in a number of sizes to suit every garden (Image credit: Garden In Minutes)

The raised bed is available in a number of sizes, so you can choose a footprint that makes sense for your space. And because the system is modular, there’s the option to add more growing space later rather than trying to plan your entire vegetable-growing empire on day one.

Oh sure, I’ll happily admit there is something slightly galling about discovering a product that might have prevented so much of the frantic watering that has occupied my summer. And would it have magically transformed my gardening skills? Probably not; I suspect even the cleverest raised bed can’t compensate for my questionable tomato-growing abilities.

Still, it might have meant I spent less time worrying about whether my vegetables were getting watered and more time actually enjoying the fact that I was growing them. After all, people always say don’t work hard, work smart. And Garden In Minutes’ All-In-One Raised Garden Bundle? It might just be the definition of that concept in action!

Lavender is a staple in my garden, and its bright purple flowers and fragrant foliage are a source of ongoing joy. However, this month, lavender plants are likely transitioning from peak bloom to seed set. But that doesn’t mean you need to take a step back and leave these gorgeous perennials to it. This is an ideal window in which to prevent your plants from getting too leggy or woody, and lay the foundations for an even more fragrant, abundant display next year.

Although lavender thrives in full sun, the heat of late summer can cause the plants to struggle unless you care for them properly. Turn a blind eye to their needs now, and there is a chance woody lower stems could harden without producing replacement growth, leading to unsightly, splitting centers by next spring. However, as anyone who grows lavender will know, excess moisture and humidity can also challenge your plants. So you’ve got to take the weather into account, as well as variety.

These easy August care steps will help you prevent the dreaded leggy burnout, while also ensuring your lavender doesn’t become vulnerable to late summer rots. A few moments of the right care right now can also set you up for extra flowering and fragrance next time. So don't let your lavender go leggy as summer wanes. These quick August tasks will protect silver foliage, prevent root rot, and set you up for more lush, heavily scented blooms when the warm weather returns next year.

Key Lavender Tasks in August

If you’ve grown lavender for a while, you know not all species have the same growth cycle. Some rebloom in fall under the right circumstances, but many do not. And of course, not all regions have the same summer weather, which has some bearing on the tasks below. That said, most lavender types like heat and minimal water. This means cool or wet summers can be a challenge. To keep things interesting, too much heat and drought can also be a problem. English lavenders (Lavandula angustifolia) can struggle with excessive humidity, while Spanish types thrive in warmer zones but have a shorter lifespan.

Before picking up your shears, keep species type in mind, as well as microclimate, and whether they are growing in open soil or containers. English lavender, French and Spanish lavender (L. stoechas), and hybrid lavandins (L. x intermedia) behave differently in late summer. English types are cold-hardy (in USDA hardiness zones 5-8) and appreciate some late-August shaping, while tender Spanish types (zones 7-10) can react poorly to aggressive late-season pruning in wet or humid regions.

(Image credit: Cavan Images / Getty Images)

Container-grown lavender love requires extra care this month. While ground plants can send roots deep to escape surface drought, potted lavender doesn’t have the same options. Container walls absorb high heat, and in humid regions, stagnant air around dense foliage can trap moisture, creating ideal conditions for root rot.

It’s a good idea to check moisture levels at the root level with a moisture reader like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter, available on Amazon. If your potting soil has become compacted, it’s also wise to add some gritty Back to the Roots Organic Succulent and Cacti Mix, available from Walmart, with ingredients like perlite and dolomitic limestone, which is great for drainage. This will help set you up for the tasks below.

1. Deadhead Faded Flower Spikes

(Image credit: Wita Design / Getty Images)

Generally, French lavender is a long-blooming variety with flowers from spring through fall in frost-free regions. But some English cultivars (like Gros Bleu and Buena Vista) can bloom a second time in early fall if you deadhead the faded flower spikes in August. So, if you have one of these cultivars, deadheading faded flowers toward summer’s end can prompt fresh growth. However, if your area gets early fall frosts, hold off. New growth can get damaged by an unexpected frost.

Mid-August is basically the deadline to trim off your spent flower spikes before they turn brown and seed out. But it is hugely dependent on your lavender variety, as well as your local climate and anticipated fall frost arrival. If you do deadhead, snip spent flower stalks at the point where they emerge from soft fresh foliage. To harvest long, fragrant stems without tearing tender plant tissue, use sharp pruners such as Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips with Softgrip Handles, available at The Home Depot.

This is a lovely opportunity to harvest spikes for drying, sachets, or culinary use. Gather your stems in a tightly woven basket, like the Hittomen Handmade Rattan Bread Baskets from Amazon, which are a nice shape and hold plenty of blooms. You can expect to see fresh aromatic growth within 10-14 days of deadheading.

2. Clear Debris and Refresh Grit Mulch

(Image credit: Iryna Yakovets / Getty Images)

Clean-up is beneficial for all plants and can particularly help lavender. So remove the dead leaves and pull out the debris from the entire area. This will improve the airflow around the lavender, and will also reduce the number of pests that like to live there. To clear out dead foliage and debris trapped inside dense branch joints, clear the base using durable protective wear like Wells Lamont Cowhide Leather Work Gloves from Amazon, which balance a good fit with robust texture.

A plant like lavender needs extra help in a humid climate to guard against rot and moisture damage. You can reduce the chances now by clearing away any mulch near the plant. Remember that mulch holds moisture in the soil, and that is the opposite of what your lavender needs at the moment. Other perennials may thrive under damp, wood-chip mulches, but lavender reacts poorly to trapped humidity.

Replace any damp wood mulch near your lavender with a 2-inch (5cm) layer of crushed pea gravel, coarse grit, or horticultural sand, scattered around the base. A clean, reflective mineral layer, such as Vigoro Mini Marble Chip from The Home Depot, can help to reflect heat back up into the lower lavender canopy, keeping root crowns dry and preventing soil splashback. Trimming nearby weeds also helps.

3. Master Midsummer Hydration

(Image credit: Azgek / Getty Images)

Giving your lavender the right water this month is a little tricky. It has adapted to dry conditions and is drought-tolerant. But it still needs some water, especially in very hot phases. If your climate is hot and dry in August, set up a once-weekly irrigation schedule. Water at the base, and allow soil to dry thoroughly before the next session. But if you live in a climate that gets lots of rain in August, you don’t need to (please read this as shouldn’t) provide any extra water. Too much makes a lavender unhappy and can result in loss of your plant.

Young, newly planted lavenders require regular watering during their first summer to establish a deep root system. By contrast, mature plants have deep taproots that cope better in dry conditions. Frequent, shallow surface watering encourages weak, surface-level roots and keeps the upper root crown damp, leading to fungal dieback. So when you do water, water deeply, and definitely not daily. Don't spray water overhead onto silver foliage during peak afternoon sun, as wet foliage combined with high heat causes leaf scorch and humidity rot.

To deliver water directly to the places that need it, stick with a ground-level watering vessel like the Yowon Gold Long Spout Watering Can from Amazon, which has a low angle of watering. If container plants suffer from hydrophobic, dried-out soil, soak the base in a shallow tray to allow slow absorption but reduce the risk of rots.

4. Give Plants a Late Summer Shaping

(Image credit: Andrii Tatarynov / Alamy)

For species and cultivars that won’t rebloom, August is a good time to prune your lavender, but time is of the essence. Wait until all of the blooms have faded, so plants have the chance to complete their full flowering cycle. When you prune, think in terms of a dome shape. Trimming into a dome shape will promote healthy growth. Snip back leggy stems above leaf sets, and prune back about a third of the canopy (around 8 inches or 20cm) into a neat shape. Never cut into older wood, since most old wood will not regrow. You are safe if you see green leaves below the cut.

When shaping large, established lavender shrubs quickly and evenly, use lightweight hedge shears like the Corona ClassicCUT Hedge Shears from The Home Depot, which have nice contoured handles for good grip and comfort. For precision hand-shaping on more compact varieties, use the exceptional Fiskars Bypass Pruners from Amazon, which offer lifelong precision cutting. Proper shaping yields a compact, silver-green evergreen mound that retains its structure through winter.

French and Spanish lavenders need a different approach. These are identifiable by their tufted flower spikes. They flower in late spring in warmer zones and early summer in colder zones, and can keep blooming into fall. However, they are less hardy than English lavenders and you need to be gentle. They need a light foliage trim only, as heavy pruning leaves them vulnerable to winter cold. Limit your snipping to frequent deadheading and lightly shaping after individual flush cycles.

5. Propagate Semi-Ripe Cuttings

(Image credit: Toni Jardon / Getty Images)

Late August presents an ideal window for taking semi-ripe cuttings from healthy lavender bushes. Take these semi-ripe cuttings from this year’s growth, where the stem base is firm and woody, but the tip remains flexible and green. Rooting cuttings from your favorite cultivars allows you to create duplicate plants for garden borders or container displays next spring without spending a dime. This is one of the loveliest lavender tasks to do in August to boost next year’s blooms.

Take 3-4-inch (8-10cm) side shoots from non-flowering stems for the highest rooting success rate. Heel off side shoots by gently pulling them downward off the main stem so a small piece of bark (the heel) remains attached. Strip the lower leaves off the bottom 1.5 inches (4cm) of the cutting to expose the leaf nodes, which are rich in rooting hormones. You can stimulate root development if you dip cuttings in Garden Safe TakeRoot Rooting Hormone, available from Walmart, which is very reliable.

Insert your prepared cuttings into a gritty, free-draining propagation mix. If yours feels a little on the squidgy side, then add some perlite, like Sta-Green Organic Perlite from Lowe’s, or some coarse sand. Cuttings should form strong root systems within 4-6 weeks, ready to overwinter in a protected frame or cold greenhouse. Keep them shaded, and maintain light moisture. Don't take cuttings from heavily flowered stems, as they will lack the energy needed to form new root systems.

Shop Lavender Care Essentials

(Image credit: Patricia Marroquin / Getty Images)

Maintaining a neat, fragrant, and heavy-blooming lavender patch comes down to patience, observation, and a few targeted tools, high-drainage amendments, and protective extras. These care tips will stand you in good stead, but make sure you have the best kit to hand. Here are a few high-impact essentials for late-summer lavender care.

Airy Substrate Booster

Back to the Roots Back to the Roots Organic Perlite

Lavender cuttings and container plants require superior aeration. Blending coarse perlite into potting soil creates a fast-draining medium that reduces the risk of root rot in potted lavender and encourages more robust root growth.

Root Booster

Garden Safe Garden Safe Take Root Rooting Hormone Powder

Taking semi-ripe lavender cuttings in August gives you an extra level of reinforcement as the season winds down. This classic rooting powder seals cut stem tissue and stimulates rapid root growth in new lavender plants.

Propagation Station

Marbrasse Marbrasse Propagation Station With Wooden Stand

Placing semi-ripe cuttings in water means you can watch root progress in real time. This wooden stand features glass bulb vases to support slender lavender cuttings which need that extra care in water before being potted up.

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Kourtney Kardashian has shared plenty of enviable glimpses into her impeccably curated world over the years, but her latest Instagram snap had me looking beyond the pool itself and straight to the planting surrounding it.

That's right; embedded in the middle of one of her Instagram albums, Kourtney's latest Instagram post showcases a beautifully planted poolside setting that's full of ideas worth stealing.

A masterclass in understated luxury, it shows climbing vines blanketing the dark walls, clouds of white roses softening the edges of the pool, and an immaculate lawn that stretches between the planting and the water, creating the sort of spa-like atmosphere that's impossible not to want to recreate.

Kourtney Kardashian's Perfectly Planted Poolside Picture

Yes, it's 100% the planting that really steals the show in Kourtney Kardashian's latest Instagram post.

Check it out (it's the fifth image in the album):

A post shared by Kourtney Kardashian Barker (@kourtneykardash)

A photo posted by on

I know, I know; whether this is Kourtney's own home or somewhere she's staying, this looks like the kind of garden that would require a celebrity budget (or an army of gardeners) to recreate in your own yard.

Once you break it down, though, the look actually relies on just a handful of timeless planting ideas repeated really well.

With that in mind, then, here's what to focus on if you want to get the look...

1. The Evergreen Climbers

(Image credit: Manuel Breva Colmeiro / Getty Images)

The first thing I noticed in Kourtney Kardashian's picture wasn't the pool, but the walls behind it, which are almost completely cloaked in climbers, instantly making the architecture feel warmer, softer, and far more established.

It's a clever reminder that even the sleekest contemporary homes benefit from a little greenery climbing across their walls. If you'd like to recreate the look, consider evergreen climbers like confederate jasmine in warmer regions, or climbing hydrangea for cooler climates, or something like your birth month vine if you want something different.

The aim here is to soften hard architecture without overwhelming the space.

Shop The Look:

GIVE SUPPORT

Expandable Garden Trellis

This expandable trellis can fit almost any space and gives your climbers an excellent support to climb up.

The Evergreen Alternative

Nature Hills Nursery Star Jasmine

Despite the name, star jasmine isn’t a true jasmine, but it produces masses of beautifully scented white flowers in summer, and its glossy evergreen leaves mean it looks good all year round. In fact, I’d argue it’s just as romantic as the real thing.

A HELPING HAND

Plant Support Clips

From jasmine to tomatoes, plant support clips are incredibly helpful in training your climbers to continue growing up.

2. Keep Your Flower Palette Simple

(Image credit: Mauren Winter / Alamy)

One of the reasons this garden feels so calming is that it isn't bursting with color; instead, the poolside garden in Kourtney Kardashian's Instagram post has let her white roses do almost all of the talking.

Their crisp blooms pop against the dark backdrop of the house while blending beautifully with the surrounding greenery, creating a timeless look that never feels overwhelming.

Rather than filling borders with dozens of different plants, then, try repeating one white-flowering shrub (like this stunning Endless Summer® Blushing Bride Bigleaf Hydrangea from Nature Hills) or a White Rugosa Rose throughout your planting. It's an easy designer trick that makes a garden feel cohesive, elegant, and far more expensive than it really is.

3. Let Green Space Be Part of the Design

(Image credit: Neilson Barnard/Getty Images)

It's easy to focus on the flowers in Kourtney Kardashian's poolside planting scheme, but the immaculate lawn might actually be doing the hardest work of all here.

Instead of cramming every inch with planting, the generous stretch of green grass creates breathing room between the borders and the pool, making the entire space feel calmer and more luxurious.

And, while the lawn may look high-maintenance, it doesn't have to be; choosing a drought-tolerant turf like buffalo grass, zoysia, or fine fescue can recreate the same effect while using significantly less water than traditional lawns.

Shop Drought-Tolerant Turf:

Outsidepride Perennial Buffalo Grass Seed

This drought tolerant grass seed has dark green color, enhanced density, fine leaf texture and low plant height of 6 inches, making them the perfect lawn.

Scotts Zoysia Grass Seed and Mulch

This drought-tolerant option combines mulch and grass seed to grow a tough, durable, and low-maintenance lawn.

Outsidepride Fine Fescue Grass Seed Mix - 5 Lbs

This mix combines 20% Hard Fescue, 40% Chewings Fescue, and 40% Creeping Red Fescue, making it ideal for northern and southern lawns. 

The biggest takeaway from Kourtney Kardashian's poolside picture isn't that we all need to rush about buying rare plants or spending a fortune on landscaping to create a peaceful retreat. Instead, it's about keeping the palette restrained, repeating just a few key elements, and letting foliage do as much of the work as flowers.

The result is a garden that feels peaceful, elegant, and quietly luxurious – and thankfully, that's a look anyone can recreate. No Kardashian-sized budget required... although, of course, it does require a swimming pool for the full effect.

Hopefully a humble paddling pool will do the trick for the rest of us.

When I was a child, I was in love with trees. For years I thought the chorus of the song “America the Beautiful” ended “from tree to shining tree.” But now that I am a homeowner with a law degree, I have come to the conclusion that trees cause frequent issues between neighbors.

Like most living things in nature, trees start small and get bigger as they mature. And it’s usually the growing issue that causes problems. Trees grow tall and lean over the boundary fence; their branches grow wide and extend into the neighbor’s yard or over their house. Is pruning mature trees that belong to your neighbor kosher? Is it even legal?

Don’t worry. I’m here to give you the scoop. (I cover more questions like this in my Gardening Lawyer series, drawing on my experience as both a gardener and former attorney.)

It’s Not the Tree’s Fault!

(Image credit: Tat'yana Andreyeva / Getty Images)

Unlike humans, trees never act maliciously or with revenge in mind. (Yes, I’ve also read stories about trees that kill the tree-cutter as they fall, but nobody proved tree ill-will was responsible.) They are planted in landscapes to add shade, beauty, and shelter for wildlife, and they grow tall and wide to accomplish these ends. So if your neighbor’s tree trunk or branches extend into your yard, don’t blame the tree; have a talk with your neighbor.

It pays to know something about trees before you plant them in your yard. Their tendency to grow is well known (who hasn’t heard the saying: "Great oaks from little acorns grow"? ) But many homeowners install trees without thinking things through and, years down the road, that can be a problem for the neighbor. Everybody knows that redwoods can get very tall, but who knew that a mountain ash can soar to 330 ft (100 m)? Even an ornamental cherry tree can get to 50 feet (15 m) tall and 40 feet (13m) wide.

The problem arises when a young sapling is planted on or near a property line and, over time, it hangs over into the neighboring yard. A responsible neighbor will trim their trees to make sure this doesn’t happen, but the fact is, it happens all the time. You see the offending limb encroaching on your yard and you have a Fiskars pole saw tree pruner from Home Depot already in your virtual shopping cart. You ask yourself, "How much harm could really come from just a quick prune?" If it happens to you, it pays to know your legal options.

Can I Cut the Neighbor’s Tree?

(Image credit: Photovs / Getty Images)

Here’s the scoop: if the tree is growing on your neighbor’s property, you can cut off any part of the tree that extends over the property line into your yard. But this is a case with a lot of “buts” so it pays to read the fine print.

1. Is the tree in the neighbor’s land or on the property line?

Take a close look at the property line on the city map or a recent survey. Is the tree trunk growing 100% on property that belongs to your neighbor? Or is it sitting on the property line? You might think you have more rights to cut it if it is on the property line, but this is not the case. In most jurisdictions, if the tree is a “property line” tree, neither neighbor can cut it without the other’s permission.

2. Can I cut off the entire branch to make sure it doesn’t grow back into my property?

Nope. You can only cut the part of the branch that extends over the property line, not one inch more. You’ll want to check to be sure you know exactly where that line is.

3. Can I go onto my neighbor’s land to trim the tree?

You cannot set foot in the neighbor’s property without their consent. It would be considered trespass. You must make the cuts from your own property.

4. What if big tree branches are involved and an arborist says cutting them may kill the tree?

The rule in most jurisdictions is that you cannot destroy or harm the overall health of the tree. This is one of the most important limitations to your right to trim overhanging branches: trimming must not damage or kill the tree. If you or someone you hire prunes too much and harms the health of the tree, the neighbor can sue you for property damage and even for replacement costs for the tree. In some states like California, laws permit a tree owner to seek double or treble damages when a person wrongfully cuts down, destroys, or damages a tree.

How Best to Proceed

(Image credit: MoMo Productions / Getty Images)

If a neighbor’s tree has grown so that branches are hanging over the property line into your yard, the best first step is to find out the law that applies in your state, in your town, and in your residence. Talk with an attorney if you have a hard time figuring out what the law provides.

After that, talk to the owner of the property. This may be your neighbor, but it might not, if the property is rented. Describe the problem and ask for their cooperation. If you can afford it, offer to split the cost of hiring an arborist to trim the trees on the property. As an alternative, propose cutting the branches at the property line yourself, with the owner of the adjacent property present.

More from the Gardening Lawyer

• Why Taking Cuttings From a Plant You Bought Could Land You in Legal Trouble
• If Your Tree Falls Into a Neighbor’s Yard, Who Pays for the Damage?
• Can You Take Garden Plants With You When You Move House?
• Is Your Neighbor's Tree Blocking the Sunlight in Your Yard? Here’s What You Can (and Can’t) Do About It
• Is It OK to Take Plant Cuttings From Garden Centers?

Tomato plants spend August pushing out side shoots faster than anyone can keep up with. Most of those suckers end up on the ground, forgotten by evening. Something else happens when one goes into a jar of water instead. Tomato stems carry the cells that become roots along their whole length, so a cutting never starts from scratch the way a seed does.

Anyone who has learned to grow tomatoes from seed knows the wait involved, since a spring transplant needs six to eight weeks before it is anywhere near ready for the garden. A rooted sucker skips nearly all of that. The tissue is already mature. It flowers on its own schedule rather than growing up first.

Which Shoots Are Worth Taking?

(Image credit: Toni Jardon / Getty Images)

A tomato sucker sits in the crotch where a leaf branch meets the main stem, angled up at roughly forty-five degrees. Left alone it becomes another branch, and that branch will carry flowers of its own by autumn. Two things get cut by mistake here – the thick vertical stalk running up the middle, and the horizontal leaf branch itself. Neither one should come off. At 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) a sucker holds enough stored energy to support itself without carrying so much leaf that it wilts before roots arrive. Smaller than that tends to be weak. Much bigger and the cutting spends its first week in shock.

Parent choice matters more than size, though. A clone carries whatever the parent has. A vine already spotted with early blight or curling from virus hands those troubles straight down to the new plant. That is a rough way to spend eight weeks. Pick from the healthiest plant in the row, ideally one still putting on fresh growth, snip just below a node with something clean and sharp, then strip every leaf off the lower half of the stem.

Water or Soil?

(Image credit: Tosh Lubek / Getty Images)

Rooting tomato cuttings in water is the method most people reach for, mostly because the roots are visible. A jar on a bright windowsill works well, kept out of direct sun, with only the bare stem submerged and the leaves held clear of the surface. Any leaf touching water will rot and foul the jar. Fresh water every couple of days prevents that. A clear jar makes progress easy to check. Roots usually show in seven to fourteen days, and once they reach an inch (2.5cm) the cutting is ready to pot up. I'm a big fan of this propagation station from Amazon, which turns the whole process into a work of art.

Rooting straight into moist potting mix skips a step. Water roots and soil roots are not quite the same structure, so cuttings moved from jar to garden often sulk for a few days while they adjust. Push the stripped stem two inches (5cm) into damp mix. Keep it shaded and evenly watered. A gentle tug after ten days will say whether it has taken. A tray of 4-inch nursery pots from Amazon can handle a dozen at once, about the right number to lose a couple and still come out ahead. Rooting hormone is optional at best on tomatoes. If you do want to use it, go with this one from Amazon.

Getting Them Through the Heat

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A rootless cutting in August has no way to replace what it loses. Afternoon sun is the main threat for the first two weeks. Morning light with shade from noon onward is about right, whether that comes from the east side of a building or from a panel of shade cloth from Home Depot stretched over hoops. The same goes for a cutting set in the ground rather than a pot.

Humidity helps as well. A clear plastic bag propped over the pot for a few days keeps the leaves from drying faster than the stem can supply them, though it has to come off once new growth appears. Keep the mix damp rather than wet – cuttings rot about as easily as they root. Once the plant is pushing fresh leaves, a week of gradually longer sun gets it ready for a permanent spot.

Racing the First Frost

(Image credit: Iryna Boiko/Getty Images)

Timing is the honest catch here. Rooted cutting to ripe fruit runs somewhere around eight to ten weeks in decent conditions, which puts an early August start into fruit by mid October across much of the country. Cherry tomatoes and the smaller plum tomatoes ripen fastest. Their fruit sizes up in a fraction of the time a big slicer needs, and a plant loaded with twenty small tomatoes beats one holding two green softballs.

Cold is manageable up to a point. A frost cover from Walmart thrown over the row buys several degrees on the nights that would otherwise end things. Anything growing in a pot can move to a porch instead. Tomatoes picked at the first blush of color finish ripening indoors, so a late flush never goes to waste.

The whole thing costs a jar and some patience. There is something quietly satisfying about eating fruit in November off a shoot that was headed for the compost pile in August.

Late summer can be a tough time for many garden plants, but hydrangeas are having a particularly rough time this year. With such hot August temperatures and many areas in drought, it would be surprising if you’re not seeing signs of seasonal distress with a noticeably brown hydrangea. Browning flowers or crisp leaves don’t automatically mean your shrub is dead or past saving, and there are many reasons why hydrangeas turn brown in August. But because of this year's extreme El Niño summer, how you deal with these symptoms is critical to whether or not your shrub recovers, and how well.

For a start, don't panic if your hydrangea droops dramatically in the heat of the afternoon, especially if it's also getting sun late in the day. This is a normal response as the plant is transpiring (losing) water through its leaves faster than the roots can pull water up through the soil. Once the sun goes down and temperatures drop a little, you should see the plant perk up again.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

While drooping is normal, it's essential to take heed of this warning sign and keep a close eye on your plant. If its response progresses to browning flowers or leaves, your hydrangea is undergoing more significant stress and it’s time to act. With a careful diagnosis and a plan of attack, as well as essential hydrangea care in August, you can stop the damage from spreading and protect healthy growth so the plant can recover. Find your specific symptoms below to discover exactly what to do next, and hopefully save your brown hydrangea this heatwave summer.

STAGE#1 My Hydrangea Flowers Are Starting to Turn Brown

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Flower browning isn’t necessarily an issue. For many hydrangeas, this is a natural transition as flowers fade and, because of the hot and dry weather, that may be happening earlier than usual this summer. If yours is a bigleaf hydrangea, it's good to know that Hydrangea macrophylla is more prone to flower wilting and premature browning than other types.

However, normal browning occurs slowly. If flowers brown more suddenly during hot and dry conditions, and you spot other distress signs like wilted leaves, that's due to water or heat stress, or blooms being scorched by the sun.

If your hydrangea is showing signs of premature stress-browning on the flowers, check the soil first. Push your finger several inches into the ground or use a moisture meter like this Long-Probe Soil Moisture Meter from Walmart. If the soil is dry below the surface, your plant needs more water. The solution is to give it a deep soak at the soil level, as opposed to a light or overhead sprinkling.

Use a soaker hose like this Element Rubber Soaker Hose from Lowe's or just hold a regular hose nozzle at the base of the plant with the faucet turned half-on. Slower and longer is better to let the water penetrate deeply into the soil. Move the hose outward as you go, ensuring you soak the soil all around the drip line (the soil beneath the outer rim of the shrub, where rain shed from the shrub would fall most heavily) as roots will be concentrated here, rather than by the main stem. If your hydrangea is potted, soak the soil well and repeat as soon as the soil dries again, which might be daily during a heat spell.

Reinvigorating tired, heat-stressed plants with a seaweed tonic in August will also help, as it stimulates roots to take up more nutrients and moisture from the soil.

You can also help revive your plant by providing some protection from heat and sun in the afternoon. Move potted plants into a shaded spot. For in-ground shrubs, rig up a garden shade cloth such as this from Amazon, or even a patio umbrella, to create temporary shade. Laying a 2-3 inch layer of natural mulch such as Miracle-Gro Organic Mulch from Walmart will also help keep water in the soil and roots cool, but keep it away from the main stem to prevent rot.

STAGE#2 My Hydrangea Flowers Are Totally Brown

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Again, brown hydrangea flowers is a situation with two possibilities: either the flowers have naturally reached the end of their lives and your hydrangea has done blooming, or they're browning prematurely due to seasonal stress. To tell the difference, look at the rest of the plant. Is it healthy and vigorous or wilting and turning brown elsewhere?

If the plant looks stressed in addition to having brown flowers, it needs some attention to revive it, so follow the Stage #1 steps of watering, shading and mulching, plus the relevant advice for further stages if needs be.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Whether flowers have turned completely brown because the plant is stressed or the shrub is simply done blooming, it's best to remove them. Use a clean pair of hand pruners such as these Fiskars Steel-Blade Pruners from Walmart. Do make sure blades are sharp – healing crushed, ragged cuts will place unnecessary stress on the plant, and sharpening pruners is a two-minute task with a tool like this $7 Garden Guru blade sharpener from Amazon. For bigleaf hydrangeas which bloom on old wood, make the cut just below the base of the faded flower, as cutting off too much growth in August will compromise next year’s blooms. For panicle and smooth hydrangeas that bloom on new wood, cut back to the first healthy set of leaves.

STAGE#3 My Hydrangea Leaves Are Turning Brown at the Edges

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Brown, crispy edges on otherwise green leaves, brown tips to green leaves, and dry, curling brown areas on leaves are all signs of heat and drought stress on hydrangeas. Other big clues that this browning is due to seasonal stress is if it's occurred during or just after a heatwave or drought, and if the soil is dry when you test it with your finger or a moisture meter.

To revive your hydrangea at this stage, start with a deep soak of the plant’s roots, both for potted and in-ground plants, following the steps for Stage #1. Repeat as needed, which means checking the soil moisture daily, especially for potted plants. It’s better to water deeply and less frequently than to water daily and only lightly, but container plants often need daily deep soakings, especially in hot weather, so be guided by your moisture meter.

Follow the Stage #1 steps for mulching and shading, too.

Resist the urge to remove all the leaves with brown edges or tips and tidy up your plant. If most of a leaf is green, it’s still conducting photosynthesis and is useful to the plant’s recovery.

STAGE#4 My Hydrangea Leaves Are Totally Brown and Dropping

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If the damage has progressed to completely brown hydrangea leaves that are dropping from the shrub, the cause may be severe heat and drought stress or it can indicate standing water at the roots or a disease. Here’s how to tell what's troubling your hydrangea.

Leaves that are dry, crispy and brown typically indicate heat and drought stress. If there's still some healthy growth on your plant, the heat and drought stress can be reversed. Water, mulch and shade as outlined in Stage #1, and use your moisture meter to decide how regularly the plant needs watering. Remove any leaves that are totally brown and dead. Don't fertilize, as feeding a severely stressed plant can cause more damage.

Leaves that are softer and yellowish rather than brown are likely caused by too much moisture. Check the soil with your moisture meter to confirm and, if you believe the issue is due to too much water, stop watering immediately and let the soil dry out. If the hydrangea doesn't show any signs of recovery, you probably have a drainage issue. Dig the plant up and trim off any rotting, mushy roots, and improve soil drainage by adding sand or compost before replanting, or move to a spot with faster-draining soil.

If you're growing a hydrangea in a container, check there is a drainage hole and that it isn't blocked. Raising the pot on risers such as these Invisible Pot Feet from Amazon will improve drainage, or you may need to repot your hydrangea. Using a moisture-control mix such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix from Walmart will help regulate water levels.

Leaves that have browned as spots joined into patches indicates disease. Move onto Stage #5, pronto!

STAGE#5 My Hydrangea Leaves Have Brown Spots

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Browning due to heat and drought stress tends to start at the edges and move inward. If the browning begins with spots on hydrangea leaves, your plant may be diseased. Some of the typical patterns of disease on hydrangea leaves include:

• Small brown or tan spots
• Spots that have dark edges
• Multiple spots that merge into larger discolored areas
• More spots on older leaves

If you suspect disease rather than seasonal weather stress, start by removing damaged leaves and cleaning up any that have fallen to the ground, wearing rubber-coated gloves such as these from Amazon. Fungal spores can transfer from infected leaves to healthy foliage so dip pruner blades into isopropyl alcohol such as this from Amazon to disinfect between cuts. Rake up any dropped leaves, too; a shrub rake such as this from Lowe's makes the job easier. Dispose of all this plant material in the garbage, and don't add it to a compost pile.

Next, change your watering practices, avoiding overhead watering and irrigating shrubs at their base so you don’t get the leaves wet, as damp foliage welcomes disease. Water in the morning so any splashes dry quickly. Improving airflow helps make conditions less conducive to disease, too, so if your hydrangea seems crowded, trim out some stems to allow more air movement.

Take some photos, too. Then, if your hydrangea doesn't recover after these measures, check with your local nursery or extension office to diagnose the exact disease and find a treatment. You can still likely save hydrangea shrubs if you act quickly and use the correct product.

STAGE#6 Is My Hydrangea Dead?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

None of the above measures will help if your hydrangea is already dead. However, don't presume that your shrub is entirely dead, but test whether individual stems are alive.

Use your fingernail or the edge of shears to lightly and gently scratch a small section of the outer layer of the stem. If you find green tissue underneath, it’s still alive. If it’s brown, the stem is dead – but work your way down the stem to see if you find any green, living tissue closer to the base. Prune any dead stems, either to the base of the plant if there are no signs or life, or back to where you find green tissue.

Follow the watering, mulching and shading steps for Stage #1 and, if there is sufficient life left in the main stems and the roots are healthy, your plant can recover, but it may take some time.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A brown hydrangea can be disheartening, but it doesn’t necessarily mean your hydrangea is lost. Take your time to diagnose the problem first, and then you can work on a solution to bring it back to life. With the right care, chances are your hydrangea will be back to full bloom next year.

Perennials bought by the pot add up quickly, which is part of why seed saving keeps drifting back into fashion. The other part is timing. August sits in the middle of the ripening season for a lot of garden favorites. Pods that looked plump and soft in July are turning brown and brittle right about now.

Advice on the subject tends to point toward seed harvesting in autumn, which suits the last bloomers but comes far too late for anything that flowered in June. On some of these, a week of waiting costs the whole crop. One clump watched closely can teach more than any calendar can.

Perennials to Collect Seeds from in August

Three habits apply no matter what is being collected. Work on a dry afternoon rather than the morning after rain. Leave seeds out somewhere indoors and airy for a week to finish curing. Then store your seeds – these paper seed envelopes from Amazon are a better bet than a jar, because they won't allow moisture to build up.

1. Columbine

(Image credit: Belova Veronika / Getty Images)

Columbine ripens ahead of nearly everything else here, so early August is often the last call instead of the opening bell. The pods stand upright in clusters of five and split across the top once the seed inside has gone glossy black. Tip the stem over a bowl and it empties in one motion. Green seed will not keep, however carefully it gets dried. Hardy from zones 3 to 8, columbine self-sows with real enthusiasm, so the volunteers crowding around the parent are worth leaving alone as a backup supply.

2. Oriental Poppy

(Image credit: Lialina Olena / Shutterstock)

Oriental poppy comes in the most convenient packaging in the garden. Its capsule dries to a hard tan shell with a ring of tiny openings under the cap. Turn one upside down and a fine dark dust pours out, barely coarser than ground pepper. Rattle a few before picking, because a capsule that stays silent has not finished ripening. Zones 3 to 7 are within range. The crown dies back to nothing by midsummer, so note where it sits while the stems are still standing.

3. Hollyhock

(Image credit: chuchart duangdaw / Getty Images)

Flat green disks follow the flowers up a hollyhock spike. The ones near the bottom ripen weeks ahead of those at the top. Wait until a disk turns papery brown and breaks into wedges under light pressure. Each wedge holds a single seed. Zones 3 to 8 is the usual range, though hollyhock behaves more like a biennial than a true perennial, which is exactly why keeping a supply on hand matters.

4. Perennial Lupine

(Image credit: Dmitry Bakulov)

Lupine gives almost no warning at all. Its pods shift from green to gray-brown over a couple of days, then twist open and fling the seed several feet (about 1m) clear of the crown. Check them every morning once the color starts to turn. A pair of bypass pruning shears from Home Depot makes short work of the whole stalk. The stalk can then finish splitting inside a paper bag where nothing escapes. It grows across zones 3 to 8. Weevils get into a percentage most years, so a spell in the freezer counts as cheap insurance before the seed goes away for winter.

5. Blazing Star

(Image credit: tc397 / Getty Images)

Blazing star never makes the moment obvious, because the spike turns tan from the top downward over several weeks. Tug gently at the fluff. Seed that lets go without a fight is ready. The rest needs more time. Blazing star performs from zone 3 to zone 9. It also puts out a fair number of hollow duds alongside the good material, so roll a few between finger and thumb — the plump ones are easy to feel out from the empty. There is no need to clean the fluff out of a batch before it goes into a packet.

6. Balloon Flower

(Image credit: Katrin Ray Shumakov/Getty Images)

Balloon flower capsules split into a neat five-pointed star at the top when the contents are ready. By then the stem has usually yellowed. Cut below the capsule and turn it over. Flat dark seed slides straight out with no cleaning needed. The comfortable range runs from zone 3 to zone 8. That long taproot makes division a gamble, and replacements raised from saved seed prove far more dependable than lifting and splitting an old clump. Wet weather during ripening spoils more batches than birds ever do.

7. Anise Hyssop

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Anise hyssop, also known as agastache, asks less of a gardener than anything else on this list. The flower spike dries into a brown bottlebrush. By mid-August the seed is loose inside it, so a bag held underneath and a firm shake will collect most of what is there. What comes off is more chaff than seed at first. Push the mix through a 1mm straining mesh sheets from Walmart and the chaff stays behind. Zones 4 to 8 are home ground. It self-sows freely enough that some gardeners cut the spikes purely to keep the colony in check.