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If you live in an area that gets wildfires, you take steps to keep fire away. You don’t burn your trash, you don’t let your kids play with matches, and you don’t install highly flammable plants in the landscape. We’ve all seen photos of flames racing through pine forests, even during the growing season.

As you work in the back yard this year, think about firescaping your lawn and garden. There are few absolutes in life, and there’s not a single plant that is 100 percent fireproof. But swapping out plants that burn easily with plants that don’t simply makes sense.

Let's explore which plants you should avoid and what plants to use instead.

Replacing Flammable Plants

Late summer and fall are good times to do some revisions in the garden to make your landscape less fire-prone. Although summer is a big fire season, autumn is too, as green leaves dry and fall, creating masses of flammable groundcover.

We’ve identified five of the plants you don’t want in your garden during wildfire season. But don’t think we’ll leave you with a bare landscape. We’ve found a great replacement for each flammable shrub you remove.

1. Pine Trees

(Image credit: Meunierd / Shutterstock)

This might not sit well with the kids, but it’s time to say goodbye to all those living Christmas trees – pine or spruce – that you’ve replanted in the yard. Most conifers have needles that contain oils and resins. Pine needles, bark, and wood contain volatile, sticky compounds that burn hot and fast. Firefighters are known to call these trees “fire food”, and they are definitely not the trees you want to have in the backyard as a wildfire approaches.

Pines (Pinus spp.) tend to have low-hanging branches. These act as “fire ladders” to bring ground fires up and into the crowns of the trees. The other problem with these conifers is that they drop dead needles to the ground below them. While pine needles are considered good mulch for acid-loving plants, they are also highly flammable. These dry mats of needles catch fire easily and serve as great fuel for surface fires.

Finally, there are those cool cones. In France, people collect pine cones to use to start the wood fires in their stoves, which is to say that pine cones burn readily too. And in the wild, the burning cones can explode, sending glowing embers flying long distances in the breeze.

Plant Instead: Coast Redwood

(Image credit: Stuart Walmsley / Getty Images)

Now not everyone can grow coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens), but if you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 7-9 in a climate that has mild wet winters and deep-soil moisture, this is your best substitute for pine trees or any conifer. While pines and spruce trees have flammable resins in their needles and bark, redwoods do not. They have developed thick, tannin-rich bark and high moisture content that resist fire. You can grow your own redwood with this kit from Tractor Supply.

2. Rosemary

(Image credit: Toni Jardon / Getty Images)

Many of my friends plant rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) to use for cooking, but I am not among them. I planted a few rosemary bushes for the gorgeous and unexpected indigo flowers and because these herbs never seem to need human attention. In fact, rosemary seems to resent it if you give it water, which makes sense given its native environment in the toasty, dry Mediterranean region of Europe.

But I’ve learned that rosemary (and lavender for that matter) contain oils that are super flammable. Those oils are why they have such a strong, appealing smell. That means that large aromatic bushes can ignite in record time during periods of drought or extreme heat. They are highly combustible.

Plant Instead: Bush Germander

(Image credit: Zummolo / Getty Images)

Bush germander (Teucrium fruticans) is a similar, tough plant with aromatic leaves as well as blue summer flowers, and it’s native to the Mediterranean region as well. But this plant is a spreading evergreen shrub in the mint family, containing no volatile oils. That means it doesn’t burn easily. It grows to 3 feet (1 m) tall and twice that wide, offering arching, soft shoots and shiny leaves. Like rosemary, bush germander likes a full sun location, tolerates poor soil, and requires little water.

3. Juniper

(Image credit: Rizky Panuntun / Getty Images)

Junipers (Juniperus spp.) have short green needles that are tightly crowded on the twigs. Some varieties are tall shrubs, but many forms of juniper make good ground cover plants in hot, sunny sites.

But they might be the most flammable of garden plants, having a very high content of volatile resins and oils. They also hold onto their dead inner needles inside the dense crown and this accumulation can ignite rapidly and burn with high-heat flames that can ignite structures in the vicinity. They are sometimes called “gasoline bushes” by firefighters. They ignite so explosively that they should be eliminated from any garden in a zone with a high wildfire risk.

Plant Instead: Coyote Brush

(Image credit: Sundry Photography / Shutterstock)

Coyote brush, also called coyote bush, looks a bit like juniper. It’s a hardy evergreen shrub that grows in a variety of dry areas ranging from sand dunes to dry mountain slopes. Like juniper, coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis) comes in upright, shrubby forms and low, spreading forms. No variety has resins and many, like dwarf variety Twin Peaks, are wonderfully dense and fire-resistant groundcover. Coyote brush seeds can be purchased from Sleepy Cat Natives on Etsy.

4. Bamboo

(Image credit: jia yu / Getty Images)

Many people plant bamboo in the landscape as a screen or hedge, but is it a fire hazard? Yes it is.

Seeing bamboo (Bambusa vulgaris) on this flammable list may surprise you, since a live bamboo cane is virtually impossible to burn. An individual live cane will have high silica and water content, making it hard to burn. But the cane quickly loses its moisture during dry, hot, windy weather. And bamboo forms tight clumps of compact clusters of stems that collect dead material, dry leaf litter, fine twig fuel, and dead interior stalks. This creates a serious fire hazard during times of drought and heat.

Plant Instead: Fern Podocarpus

(Image credit: Photography By Tonelson / Getty Images)

Fern Podocarpus, also known as fern pine, is a great alternative to flammable bamboo. Like bamboo, it can grow quite tall - to 50 feet (16m) - but can be kept smaller with regular pruning. It has narrow, soft leaves that have a high moisture content and does not accumulate dead inner leaves. Unlike bamboo, Podocarpus (Podocarpus gracilior or Afrocarpus gracilior) lacks explosive, heavy resins or volatile oils that feed fast-moving crown fires. Fern pines can be purchased from TropicalPlantsFL on Etsy.

5. Pampas Grass

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Pampas grass is a tall, popular ornamental grass native to South America. It is known for its gigantic clumps and large, pale, feathery plumes. It can grow taller than the gardener, thrives in full sun, and is widely used in landscaping. But it is known as a fire enabler, thanks to its low moisture content, and volatile oils. Even its growth pattern makes it dangerous in fire-territory, since its airy vertical growth is flammable, easy to ignite, and can become fire torches.

Plant Instead: Pink Muhly Grass

(Image credit: inho Lee / Getty Images)

If you are taking out pampas grass, you’ll want to replace it with a safer, fire-smart option that still gives you a vertical accent and soft texture. We suggest pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris). It grows in clumps to 3 feet (1 m) tall, offering soft, airy pink flowers. The blooms are lovely, often compared to clouds or plumes. This is a low-ignition, high-moisture perennial that - like pampas grass - grows in full sun locations, but doesn’t present a fire danger. Pink muhly grass can be shipped straight to your door from Garden Goods Direct.

A prolific bloomer, zinnias are long-favored by both pollinators and gardeners for their brilliant color and lasting appeal. If you’re growing zinnias for the first time, you are certain to find delight in their ease of growth and ability to persist throughout the entire summer season.

Zinnia flowers (Zinnia elegans) are a colorful and long-lasting addition to the flower garden. Once you learn how to plant zinnias for your area, you'll be able to add this popular annual to sunny areas that benefit from their perky blooms.

This guide aims to explore the needs of this classic annual flower in greater detail to help you keep plants looking their absolute best and blooming all summer.

Quick Zinnia Facts

Botanical Name

Zinnia elegans

Plant Type

Annual

Height

12-48 in (30-122 cm)

Spread

6-18 in (15-46 cm)

Light

Full sun

Soil

Well-draining

Hardiness

USDA zones 2-11 (Not in the US? Convert your zone)

Flowers

Summer to first frost

Native Range

Mexico, Central America

(Image credit: Getty Images)Planting

If you're looking to add some bright color, grow some zinnia flowers in your summer garden this year. Here's what they need to thrive and how to start plants from seed.

Soil Requirements

When provided with good drainage and fertility, zinnias are adapted to a wide range of soil types. This includes those that are neutral, slightly acidic, or even slightly alkaline. Plants do well to tolerate varying soil compositions, including those that are sandy or consist of heavy clay.

Light Requirements

Zinnias grow best in beds that receive at least 6-8 hours of sun each day, often preferring much more. Ample light will aid in the production of strong stems, and large numbers of flowers.

Some shade, throughout the hottest parts of the afternoon, can be beneficial to plants where summer temperatures often climb. It should be noted, however, that excess shade may result in poor flower production and stems that are weak or leggy.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)Temperature & Humidity

Most zinnias found in the garden are considered tender annuals. This means that they grow best where conditions are warm and are unable to withstand cooler temperatures. Ideal temperatures for growth range between 70-85°F (21-29°C) during the day and no less than 60°F (15°C) throughout the night.

Though zinnias are heatwave-proof and able to tolerate brief periods of high humidity, prolonged moisture or poor circulation can lead to the development of disease.

Planting Step-by-Step

Though planting zinnia seeds is relatively simple, knowing when and how will be essential to success. You generally have two options: growing zinnia from seed indoors or planting zinnia seeds outside.

If you want to sow zinnia seeds inside, you should do so approximately 2-3 weeks before the last frost date in your local area. This will allow ample time for germination, but prevent seedlings from growing too large before they are ready to be moved into the garden. Keep trays in a warm, sunny window or under lights until the seeds begin to sprout.

Seeds can also be sown directly into prepared beds. This is best done after the soil has warmed and all chances of frost have passed. New plantings should be watered well and kept consistently moist until germination can occur, in approximately 5-7 days.

(Image credit: Verediana Hille / Shutterstock)Zinnia Care

Once you plant your zinnias, it's time to learn how to care for them so they thrive and produce blooms that last all summer long. Here's what you need to know about caring for zinnias in the garden.

Watering

After planting, zinnia beds should be kept consistently moist. Established plants will prove themselves much more water-wise, withstanding brief periods of drought with relative ease. Though rainfall is usually more than sufficient in meeting the needs of zinnia plants, weekly irrigation may be required where conditions are especially hot or dry.

Water zinnias at the base of the plant. A soaker hose, like this affordable option from Walmart, is ideal for keeping foliage and petals dry while providing much needed irrigation. The best time to water plants is early morning, which allows the foliage and flowers ample time to dry off before nightfall.

(Image credit: Olga Yastremska / Getty Images)Fertilizing

The addition of a well-balanced feed, compost, and other amendments into the soil at planting is usually more than enough to see zinnias through a successful season.

Beyond planting, zinnia beds will only seldom require the use of fertilizers, with the exception of those with particularly poor fertility. If you want to encourage extra blooming, you can continue to feed plants on a monthly basis with the use of a fast-acting and bloom-boosting fertilizer, like this organic plant food from Espoma.

Pruning

Plants are beloved among those growing zinnias for cut flowers for their “cut-and-come-again” habit. Simply put, the more flowers that are cut from plants, the more each will produce. This makes deadheading, or the removal of spent blooms, an especially important aspect of zinnia care.

In addition to prolonging the production of the flowers, clipping faded buds will help to keep beds tidy and prevent the plant from going to seed. Though zinnias do not require traditional pruning, many gardeners choose to pinch plants early, which promotes branching and bushy growth.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Varieties

There are a huge array of different zinnia varieties available as both seeds and plants. You can explore dozens of different zinnia seeds and plants for sale from Burpee. But here are a few common types to try growing in your garden.

• ‘Benary’s Giant Series’ Celebrated as a cut flower, the Benary’s Giant Series produces large, showy blooms in a wide range of colors. Held atop strong stems, the cultivar is ideal for use in bouquets and boasts an impressive vase life. Available colors include pink, coral, red, lime, and many more.
• ‘Oklahoma Series’ Producing small, button-like blooms, the Oklahoma Series zinnia is ideal for cutting and pollinator gardens alike. Fully-double flowers are highly ornamental and attract hummingbirds with ease. Plants are available in a wide range of color, with salmon among the most popular.
• ‘Queeny Series’ The Queeny Series is known for its incredible double form and unique palette. Truly unlike any other, gardeners can expect plants to produce flowers in vibrant shades of lime, orange, pastel, and rosy pink.

Propagation

Those hoping to propagate the plant most commonly do so by growing zinnia from seed. This is most beneficial when increasing numbers of heirloom or open-pollinated types. A variety of cultivars can be found at garden centers in spring, though you may prefer to save your own zinnia seeds to grow your collection for free.

Though much less common, you can also propagate zinnias by cuttings. Small stem segments are removed from plants in spring, prepared, and placed into a damp rooting medium. With consistent warmth, humidity, and moisture, growers can expect rooting to occur in approximately 2-4 weeks.

(Image credit: Ade Andriyani / Shutterstock)Common Problems

Though most would consider the plant easy to grow, they are affected by several common garden diseases. Most prevalent among these are powdery mildew, leaf spot, and various other fungal infections. These are most likely to develop as the result of weather, poor air circulation, or haphazard watering.

To help prevent common zinnia problems, you should allow ample space between plants and water each carefully to avoid wetting or splashing foliage. Though zinnias are only rarely affected by pests, aphids and Japanese beetles can be causes for concern. Neem oil or insecticidal soap, both of which you can get from Amazon, can help with these pests.

Frequently Asked QuestionsCan I Grow Zinnias In Containers?

Though more traditional types are often ill-suited to growth in containers, newer hybrids are ideal. In fact, many dwarf varieties are considered to be prolific bloomers. Seeds of this type can be planted into containers as soon as the weather has warmed in spring. Provided good soil, ample light, and consistent moisture, gardeners can expect container-grown plants to flourish throughout the entirety of summer.

How Do I Keep Zinnias Blooming?

Zinnias are celebrated for their “cut-and-come-again” growth habit. Though plants that have been left unattended will continue to flower throughout summer, deadheading can greatly increase the quality and quantity of blooms.

Zinnia Care Must-Haves

Home Grown Zinnia Dahlia Seeds Pack

Grow huge dahlia-like blooms with these stunning zinnia seeds.

Burpee Superseed 36-Cell Tray

This reusable tray makes starting zinnia seeds easy year after year.

SEWANTA 2 Hummingbird Feeders for Outdoors

Hummingbirds will flock to your yard for the zinnias. Give them an extra treat with these feeders.

Whether you are growing pumpkins for Jack o’ lanterns, fall decor, fairs, or food, now is the time to push that extra oomph to ensure a bountiful autumn harvest. August may be a challenge in your area due to excessive heat, drought periods, or an increase in bug and disease activity. That is why it is important to keep up with consistent watering, proper feeding, and insect scrutiny this month.

The vines should have ample fruit set by now so it’s important to support their development in the final stretch rather than coaxing more fruit or leaves. Decreasing nitrogen fertilizer and ramping up the potassium will focus plant energy on the developing fruit.

Growing pumpkins doesn’t need to be overwhelming, but following a few tried-and-true suggestions will keep your pumpkins from withering on the vine or becoming a bug buffet.

What to Do for Pumpkins in August

Here are four tasks to perform in August to keep your pumpkins on the right track to maturity and harvest.

1. Water Deeply

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Water pumpkins deeply once or twice a week. They need from 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) per week. Pumpkins are 90 percent water, so keeping up with consistent watering will ensure your pumpkin vines are hydrated and can carry nutrients from the soil to the pumpkins.

Water will prevent leaf wilt and stress, but often wilting pumpkin leaves occur on hot afternoons then perk up in the evening. If they don’t perk up by morning, there is cause to suspect vine borers.

Always water from below and keep the water from splashing on the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. Drip irrigation is ideal. Content Editor Laura has used this easy-to-install drip irrigation kit from Home Depot for years and loves it.

Cleaning up the vines and removing them to the trash at the end of the season also will help prevent fungal spores from overwintering in the debris. To keep the fruit dry and rot free, place a thin board, shingle, tile, or stone under developing fruit. Also, carefully rotating the pumpkins every week or two keeps them developing evenly.

2. Reduce Nitrogen Fertilizer

(Image credit: Iryna Inshyna / Getty Images)

The pumpkin vines are already set with fruit by now. They do not need more vegetative growth, but they do need a potassium boost to support strong stems and fruit quality.

If you have been fertilizing pumpkins regularly, reduce the nitrogen from now on and supplement with a fertilizer that's higher in potassium, like this one from Espoma on Amazon. Or you can sidedress the pumpkin patch with compost to enrich the soil.

About 4 to 6 weeks before you expect to harvest, stop all feeding so the pumpkins focus on ripening.

3. Monitor for Insects & Disease

(Image credit: Michael LaMonica / Shutterstock)

Squash bugs, squash vine borers, and powdery mildew are still a threat to pumpkins in late summer. Check the undersides of leaves for orange to red squash bug eggs or the grayish adults. Pick off these common pumpkin pests when you see them and drop them in a bowl of soapy water. They will be slower in the early morning. Lightly squash the eggs or remove them with masking tape.

Vines that stay limp likely have a squash vine borer tunneling inside the vines. Inspect the limp vine for an entry hole with frass below. If there is only one entrance, you may be able to save the vine by removing the larva.

Using a clean blade, make a vertical cut an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) from the entry hole. If you see the larva, remove it, kill it, and cover the cut with soil. With any luck new roots will grow at the nearest node. If unsuccessful, remove the failing vine so the borers do not pupate in the ground to emerge next year.

Powdery mildew thrives in humid, shady conditions and is characterized by a white, powdery substance on the leaves. Keeping water off the leaves helps with prevention. But once the problem starts, you can’t cure it. However, you can stop it from spreading.

Remove the leaves that are most infected with the mildew and increase air circulation. There are organic and chemical controls available, but they work better when used as a prevention. You can use a sulfur-based fungicide now, according to label directions, to stop the spread. This copper fungicide from Bonide on Amazon is another good choice.

Powdery mildew doesn’t usually kill the vines, but it is unsightly. If powdery mildew is a problem every year, you might consider starting a spray program before it starts or at the initial onset until the humid weather subsides. Some resistant pumpkin varieties are available, too.

4. Stop New Fruit Production

(Image credit: Georgiy Datsenko / Getty Images)

To stop any new pumpkin production that probably won't mature by fall anyway, pinch off new female flowers and new growing tips at the end of main vines. Female flowers have a bulbous growth below the petals. Pruning pumpkins this way redirects energy to the existing squash.

Any new fruit that sets after mid-August should be removed as well. This forces the plant to focus its energy on ripening the existing fruit and encourages bigger pumpkins. Though you may be sacrificing more squash, each pumpkin will be larger.

Pumpkins are a popular and fun plant to grow, and providing consistent water, feeding, and vigilant care right up until pumpkin harvesting time will ensure your squash make it to the finish line.

Some plant pairings become classics for good reason, and asters with sedum is one of those great combinations that just always seems to work. In my garden, these vibrant perennials don’t even hit their stride until summer starts to wind down. Then, they fill borders with gorgeously rich color while providing a vital food source for pollinators when the rest of the garden has faded.

What I particularly love about this newest addition to our Plant Matchmaker series is that, while the plants look completely different, they make each other look better – it’s soft abundance meets bold structure. The upright sedum (Hylotelephium), also known as stonecrop, produces broad, flattened flowerheads packed with tiny flowers, while asters bloom with clouds of delicate daisies on slender branching stems.

As both plants peak in late summer and fall, they offer a brilliant final display of color. But the pairing isn’t all about flowering time – both plants thrive in sunny borders and are inherently low-maintenance, requiring little effort once established.

Which Varieties to Choose

While there are numerous varieties of these plants you can mix and match, it’s hard to go wrong with the ever-popular ‘Autumn Joy’ sedum, available from Plant Addicts. It’s a staple in my garden. Yes, it’s a predictable choice, but it’s popular for a reason and never puts a foot wrong.

Other winning sedum options include the richly hued Mr. Goodbud sedum, from Nature Hills; Rock N Grow Back in Black sedum, from Plant Addicts, for a more dramatic color contrast; or, for extra height in the border, pastel-pink Matrona.

Autumn Joy Stonecrop Sedum

Plants That Work Mr. Goodbud Sedum

Proven Winners Rock N Grow® Back in Black Sedum

For asters, I grow the amellus type – aka Italian aster – which is naturally neater and more compact at around 1–2 ft tall, with lovely large lilac-blue daisies. But as long as you avoid an excessive height difference between the two plants, there is a huge range to choose from.

In particular, compact dwarf varieties – like the purple October Skies asters, available at Plant Addicts, or pink Woods Pink asters from Garden Goods Direct – work well in this pairing as they are more balanced with the sedum. But even a taller variety like New England asters, which you can start from seed with this Kviter pack from Amazon, can work when the sedum is used to disguise the legginess of the asters.

Flowers can range from classic daisy forms to unusual types that look like cornflowers (see Peachie's Pick Stokes asters at Plant Addicts), zinnias (like these bold pink Henry III asters), or even mums (like this gorgeous Grape Crush variety from Nature Hills).

American Beauties Native Plants October Skies Aster

Proven Winners Henry™ III Pink Aster

Plants That Work Grape Crush New England Aster

Why Sedum and Asters Work Together

There is something so joyous about the colorful combination of sedum and asters. The warm pink, bronze, or red tones of tall stonecrop flower heads contrast and harmonize beautifully with the purple or pink daisy-like blooms of aster, while the yellow centers of the asters add a lovely sunny accent.

Yet, the biggest reason this pairing works so well is the plants’ form. Sedum is such a strong structural plant, while asters are looser and wilder. The architectural form of the stonecrop is softened by the frothy asters, keeping the overall look neat but natural.

When planting, avoid isolated single plants or an ordered alternating pattern. They will look more natural planted in loose groups. Position taller asters towards the back and use sedums to form generous forms in front. Dwarf asters give more flexibility for positioning. Let the edges of the plants mingle slightly. In large borders, repeat the plant combination at intervals for good design rhythm.

(Image credit: Alamy)How to Grow Them Together

As well as looking good together, stonecrop and asters have compatible growing requirements. Both thrive in full sun and well-draining soil. There are sedums and asters suitable for gardens across a broad range of USDA zones, although exact hardiness varies somewhat by species and cultivar. Certainly, there are options to make this pairing work in zones 3–8.

The main consideration is moisture. Sedums are tough, drought-tolerant perennials that dislike wet, rich soil, while many asters appreciate more consistent moisture. A moderately fertile, free-draining site that doesn't stay soggy is a good compromise. Neither plant needs heavy feeding, either, and overly rich soil can encourage soft, floppy growth.

As flowering winds down, don't be too quick to cut the plants back. Asters are an important late-season nectar source, while the fading flowerheads of sedum continue to change color and add interest long after the blooms have peaked. If you leave the spent stems standing through winter, cut them back before fresh growth begins in spring.

The architectural flower heads of Autumn Joy can persist well into winter, adding structure and color to an otherwise sparse garden. Cut them back before new growth begins in spring.

It’s this long season of interest that makes sedum and asters such an enduring fall combination. They take over when most summer stars are beginning to fade and ensure the garden heads into fall with a flourish.

More Plant Matchmaker Articles

• This Dreamy Combination Shines Late in the Season
• These Fiery Perennials Make Borders Glow Into Fall

Budget resin planters have revolutionized patio style, bringing good looks for a lot less bucks. I’m old enough to remember the days when gardeners faced a stark choice between handsome but heavy and expensive ceramic and terracotta pots, or cheap, flimsy and pretty ugly plastic containers. Happily, resin combines the best of both, giving us containers that are light yet durable, stylish yet affordable. As patio ideas go, resin planters are a must.

So what is resin? Resin used for budget planters is typically made from synthetic polymers so it's easily molded, allowing decorative accents to be added. But the real game-changer of resin is that all sorts of mineral powders and pigments can be mixed with the polymers during manufacture. This means it's possible to mimic the look and texture of stone, terracotta and many other natural materials at a fraction of the price of the real thing. Strong colors and glossy or ultra-matt finishes are all economical to achieve, too.

The Belavi Large Resin Planters that just dropped in ALDI today are a great example of the cost difference, which can quickly add up if you're container gardening on any scale. Large planters like these would be prohibitively expensive if they were made from a traditional material. In resin, however, they're a snip at $9.99. In sleek black, elegant off-white and a rich burgundy with attractive molding, these middle aisle finds are just the excuse I've been looking for to give my patio a freshen-up and plant some more fall bloomers.

Black

Belavi Large Resin Planter

White

Belavi Large Resin Planter

BURGUNDY

Belavi Large Resin Planter

Creative August Ideas for Your New Planter

Adding a few new cheap planters to your patio or deck now will give your garden a boost – and if your yard is anything like mine, it’s starting to look a little tired in this heatwave summer. Planting some late-season heroes that’ll flower enthusiastically all the way into fall will quickly solve that issue and keep your garden packed with petals for months to come. Plenty of fall-flowering clematis are compact enough to grow in a large planter, too. For enduring color that you’ll enjoy for months to come, another smart move in August would be to take advantage of many staple perennials being discounted as we head towards the end of summer, and pick up some of the best perennial plants for patio pots at bargain prices.

Order striking new spring- and summer-flowering bulbs before they sell out, and use your new planter to create a bulb lasagna. Starting a patio veg patch is another of our quick and clever container gardening ideas you can achieve on a budget.

Fancy something a little different? Because they’re not porous, large resin planters can be used to make a stylish garden micropond by sealing the drainage hole with a marine silicone sealant like this from Amazon. Or how about pairing your plugged planter with a cheap solar-powered floating fountain to DIY a striking water feature? Because these Aldi planters are such a great price, you can afford a few and get creative.

(Image credit: ALDI/Future)More Great-Value Big Resin Planters

Resin containers are getting so popular, there are plenty of budget dupes of big-brand planters. So don't worry if you don’t make it to the middle aisle in time, you don’t have to miss out on great value large planters.

Woodgrain texture

Whiskey Barrel Resin Planter

Made of recycled resin, this whiskey-barrel planter has a diameter of 19.9" and has knock-out drainage holes.

stone alternative

Veradek Sand Resin Planter

Made with a composite of plastic and real stone powder, this Canadian-made 15" planter survives outside to -20°F.

Marbled effect

Ella Tall Resin Planter

Measuring 19.5" tall, this marbled resin Artstone planter boasts a self-watering system and is made in the USA.

Faux-ceramic chic

Asti Tall White Resin Planter

Measuring 16.1" wide and 20.1" high, this recycled resin planter has knock-out drainage holes for use inside and out.

Terracotta vibes

20" Lima Planter

This ridged resin planter doesn’t have a drainage hole (but can be drilled) so it’s perfect to make a micropond.

Stoneware style

Grosfillex Kylemore Planter

Made from resin with a hand-painted mineral finish to resemble stoneware, this 20" urn planter is highly durable.

It has officially been one of the hottest and driest summers on record, so of course I decided this was the year to expand my veg patch. Of course I did. (Not to get too Taylor Swift about it, but hi, it’s me, I’m the problem, it’s me.) And while giving my family that farm-to-table lifestyle has been incredibly rewarding, it has also made me realise just how much watering it takes to grow your own.

This means that I’ve been saving rainwater and pasta water like a madwoman, lugging hoses across the garden and desperately trying to keep everything alive. Somewhere between worrying about whether my stubbornly green tomatoes are getting enough water and trying to keep everything else from giving up the ghost, I started wondering whether there might be an easier way to grow vegetables.

And guess what? There is! It might be too late for me this year, but I have discovered the Garden In Minutes’ All-In-One Raised Garden Bundle and will be making the upgrade for next year's veggies.

I Wish I’d Discovered This All-in-One Raised Bed Sooner

Before planting my crops this year, I had toyed with the idea of raised beds and irrigation systems to make planting, watering and harvesting easier. But after costing DIY options that were coming out well over $500, I gave up on the idea.

So, when I saw this nifty little All-In-One Raised 2x2 Garden Bundle starting from a sweet $229.50 I had to know more. As the name suggests, the simple setup can be built and ready to water in minutes. It has the bonus of not having to give yourself a headache hunting down a raised bed, a watering system, and a garden grid manifold that work together, too.

The result? Well, you get a dedicated growing space for your veggies, planting is easier to organize, and it takes a lot of the legwork out of watering. In other words, instead of me wandering around the garden with a hose like a lacklustre cowgirl with a lasso, the watering is built right into the setup. Yee-ha!

Garden In Minutes® 17" Tall, 2x6ft All-In-One Raised Garden Bundles

The 2x6ft grid is the perfect size for at least 32 plants and offers consistent watering, so nothing gets neglected. You can also connect the beds together for larger plots. They come in 2 different heights and 8 different sizes.

As someone who painstakingly measures everything out myself by hand, I also love that the grid itself creates square and very clearly defined planting sections. It means I know exactly how much space to leave between everything (think of the time I could have saved!).

It's a the kind of raised bed that looks just as pretty as it is practical (there's plenty of room for roots to grow, and the open-bottom design helps with drainage, which means your plants aren't just sitting in soggy soil for days on end). And this isn’t one of those gardening purchases that feels destined to be replaced after a couple of seasons, either, as the bed has been made to withstand heat, sun and cold all year-round.

The All-in-One Raised Bundles come in a number of sizes to suit every garden (Image credit: Garden In Minutes)

The raised bed is available in a number of sizes, so you can choose a footprint that makes sense for your space. And because the system is modular, there’s the option to add more growing space later rather than trying to plan your entire vegetable-growing empire on day one.

Oh sure, I’ll happily admit there is something slightly galling about discovering a product that might have prevented so much of the frantic watering that has occupied my summer. And would it have magically transformed my gardening skills? Probably not; I suspect even the cleverest raised bed can’t compensate for my questionable tomato-growing abilities.

Still, it might have meant I spent less time worrying about whether my vegetables were getting watered and more time actually enjoying the fact that I was growing them. After all, people always say don’t work hard, work smart. And Garden In Minutes’ All-In-One Raised Garden Bundle? It might just be the definition of that concept in action!

Lavender is a staple in my garden, and its bright purple flowers and fragrant foliage are a source of ongoing joy. However, this month, lavender plants are likely transitioning from peak bloom to seed set. But that doesn’t mean you need to take a step back and leave these gorgeous perennials to it. This is an ideal window in which to prevent your plants from getting too leggy or woody, and lay the foundations for an even more fragrant, abundant display next year.

Although lavender thrives in full sun, the heat of late summer can cause the plants to struggle unless you care for them properly. Turn a blind eye to their needs now, and there is a chance woody lower stems could harden without producing replacement growth, leading to unsightly, splitting centers by next spring. However, as anyone who grows lavender will know, excess moisture and humidity can also challenge your plants. So you’ve got to take the weather into account, as well as variety.

These easy August care steps will help you prevent the dreaded leggy burnout, while also ensuring your lavender doesn’t become vulnerable to late summer rots. A few moments of the right care right now can also set you up for extra flowering and fragrance next time. So don't let your lavender go leggy as summer wanes. These quick August tasks will protect silver foliage, prevent root rot, and set you up for more lush, heavily scented blooms when the warm weather returns next year.

Key Lavender Tasks in August

If you’ve grown lavender for a while, you know not all species have the same growth cycle. Some rebloom in fall under the right circumstances, but many do not. And of course, not all regions have the same summer weather, which has some bearing on the tasks below. That said, most lavender types like heat and minimal water. This means cool or wet summers can be a challenge. To keep things interesting, too much heat and drought can also be a problem. English lavenders (Lavandula angustifolia) can struggle with excessive humidity, while Spanish types thrive in warmer zones but have a shorter lifespan.

Before picking up your shears, keep species type in mind, as well as microclimate, and whether they are growing in open soil or containers. English lavender, French and Spanish lavender (L. stoechas), and hybrid lavandins (L. x intermedia) behave differently in late summer. English types are cold-hardy (in USDA hardiness zones 5-8) and appreciate some late-August shaping, while tender Spanish types (zones 7-10) can react poorly to aggressive late-season pruning in wet or humid regions.

(Image credit: Cavan Images / Getty Images)

Container-grown lavender love requires extra care this month. While ground plants can send roots deep to escape surface drought, potted lavender doesn’t have the same options. Container walls absorb high heat, and in humid regions, stagnant air around dense foliage can trap moisture, creating ideal conditions for root rot.

It’s a good idea to check moisture levels at the root level with a moisture reader like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter, available on Amazon. If your potting soil has become compacted, it’s also wise to add some gritty Back to the Roots Organic Succulent and Cacti Mix, available from Walmart, with ingredients like perlite and dolomitic limestone, which is great for drainage. This will help set you up for the tasks below.

1. Deadhead Faded Flower Spikes

(Image credit: Wita Design / Getty Images)

Generally, French lavender is a long-blooming variety with flowers from spring through fall in frost-free regions. But some English cultivars (like Gros Bleu and Buena Vista) can bloom a second time in early fall if you deadhead the faded flower spikes in August. So, if you have one of these cultivars, deadheading faded flowers toward summer’s end can prompt fresh growth. However, if your area gets early fall frosts, hold off. New growth can get damaged by an unexpected frost.

Mid-August is basically the deadline to trim off your spent flower spikes before they turn brown and seed out. But it is hugely dependent on your lavender variety, as well as your local climate and anticipated fall frost arrival. If you do deadhead, snip spent flower stalks at the point where they emerge from soft fresh foliage. To harvest long, fragrant stems without tearing tender plant tissue, use sharp pruners such as Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips with Softgrip Handles, available at The Home Depot.

This is a lovely opportunity to harvest spikes for drying, sachets, or culinary use. Gather your stems in a tightly woven basket, like the Hittomen Handmade Rattan Bread Baskets from Amazon, which are a nice shape and hold plenty of blooms. You can expect to see fresh aromatic growth within 10-14 days of deadheading.

2. Clear Debris and Refresh Grit Mulch

(Image credit: Iryna Yakovets / Getty Images)

Clean-up is beneficial for all plants and can particularly help lavender. So remove the dead leaves and pull out the debris from the entire area. This will improve the airflow around the lavender, and will also reduce the number of pests that like to live there. To clear out dead foliage and debris trapped inside dense branch joints, clear the base using durable protective wear like Wells Lamont Cowhide Leather Work Gloves from Amazon, which balance a good fit with robust texture.

A plant like lavender needs extra help in a humid climate to guard against rot and moisture damage. You can reduce the chances now by clearing away any mulch near the plant. Remember that mulch holds moisture in the soil, and that is the opposite of what your lavender needs at the moment. Other perennials may thrive under damp, wood-chip mulches, but lavender reacts poorly to trapped humidity.

Replace any damp wood mulch near your lavender with a 2-inch (5cm) layer of crushed pea gravel, coarse grit, or horticultural sand, scattered around the base. A clean, reflective mineral layer, such as Vigoro Mini Marble Chip from The Home Depot, can help to reflect heat back up into the lower lavender canopy, keeping root crowns dry and preventing soil splashback. Trimming nearby weeds also helps.

3. Master Midsummer Hydration

(Image credit: Azgek / Getty Images)

Giving your lavender the right water this month is a little tricky. It has adapted to dry conditions and is drought-tolerant. But it still needs some water, especially in very hot phases. If your climate is hot and dry in August, set up a once-weekly irrigation schedule. Water at the base, and allow soil to dry thoroughly before the next session. But if you live in a climate that gets lots of rain in August, you don’t need to (please read this as shouldn’t) provide any extra water. Too much makes a lavender unhappy and can result in loss of your plant.

Young, newly planted lavenders require regular watering during their first summer to establish a deep root system. By contrast, mature plants have deep taproots that cope better in dry conditions. Frequent, shallow surface watering encourages weak, surface-level roots and keeps the upper root crown damp, leading to fungal dieback. So when you do water, water deeply, and definitely not daily. Don't spray water overhead onto silver foliage during peak afternoon sun, as wet foliage combined with high heat causes leaf scorch and humidity rot.

To deliver water directly to the places that need it, stick with a ground-level watering vessel like the Yowon Gold Long Spout Watering Can from Amazon, which has a low angle of watering. If container plants suffer from hydrophobic, dried-out soil, soak the base in a shallow tray to allow slow absorption but reduce the risk of rots.

4. Give Plants a Late Summer Shaping

(Image credit: Andrii Tatarynov / Alamy)

For species and cultivars that won’t rebloom, August is a good time to prune your lavender, but time is of the essence. Wait until all of the blooms have faded, so plants have the chance to complete their full flowering cycle. When you prune, think in terms of a dome shape. Trimming into a dome shape will promote healthy growth. Snip back leggy stems above leaf sets, and prune back about a third of the canopy (around 8 inches or 20cm) into a neat shape. Never cut into older wood, since most old wood will not regrow. You are safe if you see green leaves below the cut.

When shaping large, established lavender shrubs quickly and evenly, use lightweight hedge shears like the Corona ClassicCUT Hedge Shears from The Home Depot, which have nice contoured handles for good grip and comfort. For precision hand-shaping on more compact varieties, use the exceptional Fiskars Bypass Pruners from Amazon, which offer lifelong precision cutting. Proper shaping yields a compact, silver-green evergreen mound that retains its structure through winter.

French and Spanish lavenders need a different approach. These are identifiable by their tufted flower spikes. They flower in late spring in warmer zones and early summer in colder zones, and can keep blooming into fall. However, they are less hardy than English lavenders and you need to be gentle. They need a light foliage trim only, as heavy pruning leaves them vulnerable to winter cold. Limit your snipping to frequent deadheading and lightly shaping after individual flush cycles.

5. Propagate Semi-Ripe Cuttings

(Image credit: Toni Jardon / Getty Images)

Late August presents an ideal window for taking semi-ripe cuttings from healthy lavender bushes. Take these semi-ripe cuttings from this year’s growth, where the stem base is firm and woody, but the tip remains flexible and green. Rooting cuttings from your favorite cultivars allows you to create duplicate plants for garden borders or container displays next spring without spending a dime. This is one of the loveliest lavender tasks to do in August to boost next year’s blooms.

Take 3-4-inch (8-10cm) side shoots from non-flowering stems for the highest rooting success rate. Heel off side shoots by gently pulling them downward off the main stem so a small piece of bark (the heel) remains attached. Strip the lower leaves off the bottom 1.5 inches (4cm) of the cutting to expose the leaf nodes, which are rich in rooting hormones. You can stimulate root development if you dip cuttings in Garden Safe TakeRoot Rooting Hormone, available from Walmart, which is very reliable.

Insert your prepared cuttings into a gritty, free-draining propagation mix. If yours feels a little on the squidgy side, then add some perlite, like Sta-Green Organic Perlite from Lowe’s, or some coarse sand. Cuttings should form strong root systems within 4-6 weeks, ready to overwinter in a protected frame or cold greenhouse. Keep them shaded, and maintain light moisture. Don't take cuttings from heavily flowered stems, as they will lack the energy needed to form new root systems.

Shop Lavender Care Essentials

(Image credit: Patricia Marroquin / Getty Images)

Maintaining a neat, fragrant, and heavy-blooming lavender patch comes down to patience, observation, and a few targeted tools, high-drainage amendments, and protective extras. These care tips will stand you in good stead, but make sure you have the best kit to hand. Here are a few high-impact essentials for late-summer lavender care.

Airy Substrate Booster

Back to the Roots Back to the Roots Organic Perlite

Lavender cuttings and container plants require superior aeration. Blending coarse perlite into potting soil creates a fast-draining medium that reduces the risk of root rot in potted lavender and encourages more robust root growth.

Root Booster

Garden Safe Garden Safe Take Root Rooting Hormone Powder

Taking semi-ripe lavender cuttings in August gives you an extra level of reinforcement as the season winds down. This classic rooting powder seals cut stem tissue and stimulates rapid root growth in new lavender plants.

Propagation Station

Marbrasse Marbrasse Propagation Station With Wooden Stand

Placing semi-ripe cuttings in water means you can watch root progress in real time. This wooden stand features glass bulb vases to support slender lavender cuttings which need that extra care in water before being potted up.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Kourtney Kardashian has shared plenty of enviable glimpses into her impeccably curated world over the years, but her latest Instagram snap had me looking beyond the pool itself and straight to the planting surrounding it.

That's right; embedded in the middle of one of her Instagram albums, Kourtney's latest Instagram post showcases a beautifully planted poolside setting that's full of ideas worth stealing.

A masterclass in understated luxury, it shows climbing vines blanketing the dark walls, clouds of white roses softening the edges of the pool, and an immaculate lawn that stretches between the planting and the water, creating the sort of spa-like atmosphere that's impossible not to want to recreate.

Kourtney Kardashian's Perfectly Planted Poolside Picture

Yes, it's 100% the planting that really steals the show in Kourtney Kardashian's latest Instagram post.

Check it out (it's the fifth image in the album):

A post shared by Kourtney Kardashian Barker (@kourtneykardash)

A photo posted by on

I know, I know; whether this is Kourtney's own home or somewhere she's staying, this looks like the kind of garden that would require a celebrity budget (or an army of gardeners) to recreate in your own yard.

Once you break it down, though, the look actually relies on just a handful of timeless planting ideas repeated really well.

With that in mind, then, here's what to focus on if you want to get the look...

1. The Evergreen Climbers

(Image credit: Manuel Breva Colmeiro / Getty Images)

The first thing I noticed in Kourtney Kardashian's picture wasn't the pool, but the walls behind it, which are almost completely cloaked in climbers, instantly making the architecture feel warmer, softer, and far more established.

It's a clever reminder that even the sleekest contemporary homes benefit from a little greenery climbing across their walls. If you'd like to recreate the look, consider evergreen climbers like confederate jasmine in warmer regions, or climbing hydrangea for cooler climates, or something like your birth month vine if you want something different.

The aim here is to soften hard architecture without overwhelming the space.

Shop The Look:

GIVE SUPPORT

Expandable Garden Trellis

This expandable trellis can fit almost any space and gives your climbers an excellent support to climb up.

The Evergreen Alternative

Nature Hills Nursery Star Jasmine

Despite the name, star jasmine isn’t a true jasmine, but it produces masses of beautifully scented white flowers in summer, and its glossy evergreen leaves mean it looks good all year round. In fact, I’d argue it’s just as romantic as the real thing.

A HELPING HAND

Plant Support Clips

From jasmine to tomatoes, plant support clips are incredibly helpful in training your climbers to continue growing up.

2. Keep Your Flower Palette Simple

(Image credit: Mauren Winter / Alamy)

One of the reasons this garden feels so calming is that it isn't bursting with color; instead, the poolside garden in Kourtney Kardashian's Instagram post has let her white roses do almost all of the talking.

Their crisp blooms pop against the dark backdrop of the house while blending beautifully with the surrounding greenery, creating a timeless look that never feels overwhelming.

Rather than filling borders with dozens of different plants, then, try repeating one white-flowering shrub (like this stunning Endless Summer® Blushing Bride Bigleaf Hydrangea from Nature Hills) or a White Rugosa Rose throughout your planting. It's an easy designer trick that makes a garden feel cohesive, elegant, and far more expensive than it really is.

3. Let Green Space Be Part of the Design

(Image credit: Neilson Barnard/Getty Images)

It's easy to focus on the flowers in Kourtney Kardashian's poolside planting scheme, but the immaculate lawn might actually be doing the hardest work of all here.

Instead of cramming every inch with planting, the generous stretch of green grass creates breathing room between the borders and the pool, making the entire space feel calmer and more luxurious.

And, while the lawn may look high-maintenance, it doesn't have to be; choosing a drought-tolerant turf like buffalo grass, zoysia, or fine fescue can recreate the same effect while using significantly less water than traditional lawns.

Shop Drought-Tolerant Turf:

Outsidepride Perennial Buffalo Grass Seed

This drought tolerant grass seed has dark green color, enhanced density, fine leaf texture and low plant height of 6 inches, making them the perfect lawn.

Scotts Zoysia Grass Seed and Mulch

This drought-tolerant option combines mulch and grass seed to grow a tough, durable, and low-maintenance lawn.

Outsidepride Fine Fescue Grass Seed Mix - 5 Lbs

This mix combines 20% Hard Fescue, 40% Chewings Fescue, and 40% Creeping Red Fescue, making it ideal for northern and southern lawns. 

The biggest takeaway from Kourtney Kardashian's poolside picture isn't that we all need to rush about buying rare plants or spending a fortune on landscaping to create a peaceful retreat. Instead, it's about keeping the palette restrained, repeating just a few key elements, and letting foliage do as much of the work as flowers.

The result is a garden that feels peaceful, elegant, and quietly luxurious – and thankfully, that's a look anyone can recreate. No Kardashian-sized budget required... although, of course, it does require a swimming pool for the full effect.

Hopefully a humble paddling pool will do the trick for the rest of us.

When I was a child, I was in love with trees. For years I thought the chorus of the song “America the Beautiful” ended “from tree to shining tree.” But now that I am a homeowner with a law degree, I have come to the conclusion that trees cause frequent issues between neighbors.

Like most living things in nature, trees start small and get bigger as they mature. And it’s usually the growing issue that causes problems. Trees grow tall and lean over the boundary fence; their branches grow wide and extend into the neighbor’s yard or over their house. Is pruning mature trees that belong to your neighbor kosher? Is it even legal?

Don’t worry. I’m here to give you the scoop. (I cover more questions like this in my Gardening Lawyer series, drawing on my experience as both a gardener and former attorney.)

It’s Not the Tree’s Fault!

(Image credit: Tat'yana Andreyeva / Getty Images)

Unlike humans, trees never act maliciously or with revenge in mind. (Yes, I’ve also read stories about trees that kill the tree-cutter as they fall, but nobody proved tree ill-will was responsible.) They are planted in landscapes to add shade, beauty, and shelter for wildlife, and they grow tall and wide to accomplish these ends. So if your neighbor’s tree trunk or branches extend into your yard, don’t blame the tree; have a talk with your neighbor.

It pays to know something about trees before you plant them in your yard. Their tendency to grow is well known (who hasn’t heard the saying: "Great oaks from little acorns grow"? ) But many homeowners install trees without thinking things through and, years down the road, that can be a problem for the neighbor. Everybody knows that redwoods can get very tall, but who knew that a mountain ash can soar to 330 ft (100 m)? Even an ornamental cherry tree can get to 50 feet (15 m) tall and 40 feet (13m) wide.

The problem arises when a young sapling is planted on or near a property line and, over time, it hangs over into the neighboring yard. A responsible neighbor will trim their trees to make sure this doesn’t happen, but the fact is, it happens all the time. You see the offending limb encroaching on your yard and you have a Fiskars pole saw tree pruner from Home Depot already in your virtual shopping cart. You ask yourself, "How much harm could really come from just a quick prune?" If it happens to you, it pays to know your legal options.

Can I Cut the Neighbor’s Tree?

(Image credit: Photovs / Getty Images)

Here’s the scoop: if the tree is growing on your neighbor’s property, you can cut off any part of the tree that extends over the property line into your yard. But this is a case with a lot of “buts” so it pays to read the fine print.

1. Is the tree in the neighbor’s land or on the property line?

Take a close look at the property line on the city map or a recent survey. Is the tree trunk growing 100% on property that belongs to your neighbor? Or is it sitting on the property line? You might think you have more rights to cut it if it is on the property line, but this is not the case. In most jurisdictions, if the tree is a “property line” tree, neither neighbor can cut it without the other’s permission.

2. Can I cut off the entire branch to make sure it doesn’t grow back into my property?

Nope. You can only cut the part of the branch that extends over the property line, not one inch more. You’ll want to check to be sure you know exactly where that line is.

3. Can I go onto my neighbor’s land to trim the tree?

You cannot set foot in the neighbor’s property without their consent. It would be considered trespass. You must make the cuts from your own property.

4. What if big tree branches are involved and an arborist says cutting them may kill the tree?

The rule in most jurisdictions is that you cannot destroy or harm the overall health of the tree. This is one of the most important limitations to your right to trim overhanging branches: trimming must not damage or kill the tree. If you or someone you hire prunes too much and harms the health of the tree, the neighbor can sue you for property damage and even for replacement costs for the tree. In some states like California, laws permit a tree owner to seek double or treble damages when a person wrongfully cuts down, destroys, or damages a tree.

How Best to Proceed

(Image credit: MoMo Productions / Getty Images)

If a neighbor’s tree has grown so that branches are hanging over the property line into your yard, the best first step is to find out the law that applies in your state, in your town, and in your residence. Talk with an attorney if you have a hard time figuring out what the law provides.

After that, talk to the owner of the property. This may be your neighbor, but it might not, if the property is rented. Describe the problem and ask for their cooperation. If you can afford it, offer to split the cost of hiring an arborist to trim the trees on the property. As an alternative, propose cutting the branches at the property line yourself, with the owner of the adjacent property present.

More from the Gardening Lawyer

• Why Taking Cuttings From a Plant You Bought Could Land You in Legal Trouble
• If Your Tree Falls Into a Neighbor’s Yard, Who Pays for the Damage?
• Can You Take Garden Plants With You When You Move House?
• Is Your Neighbor's Tree Blocking the Sunlight in Your Yard? Here’s What You Can (and Can’t) Do About It
• Is It OK to Take Plant Cuttings From Garden Centers?

Tomato plants spend August pushing out side shoots faster than anyone can keep up with. Most of those suckers end up on the ground, forgotten by evening. Something else happens when one goes into a jar of water instead. Tomato stems carry the cells that become roots along their whole length, so a cutting never starts from scratch the way a seed does.

Anyone who has learned to grow tomatoes from seed knows the wait involved, since a spring transplant needs six to eight weeks before it is anywhere near ready for the garden. A rooted sucker skips nearly all of that. The tissue is already mature. It flowers on its own schedule rather than growing up first.

Which Shoots Are Worth Taking?

(Image credit: Toni Jardon / Getty Images)

A tomato sucker sits in the crotch where a leaf branch meets the main stem, angled up at roughly forty-five degrees. Left alone it becomes another branch, and that branch will carry flowers of its own by autumn. Two things get cut by mistake here – the thick vertical stalk running up the middle, and the horizontal leaf branch itself. Neither one should come off. At 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) a sucker holds enough stored energy to support itself without carrying so much leaf that it wilts before roots arrive. Smaller than that tends to be weak. Much bigger and the cutting spends its first week in shock.

Parent choice matters more than size, though. A clone carries whatever the parent has. A vine already spotted with early blight or curling from virus hands those troubles straight down to the new plant. That is a rough way to spend eight weeks. Pick from the healthiest plant in the row, ideally one still putting on fresh growth, snip just below a node with something clean and sharp, then strip every leaf off the lower half of the stem.

Water or Soil?

(Image credit: Tosh Lubek / Getty Images)

Rooting tomato cuttings in water is the method most people reach for, mostly because the roots are visible. A jar on a bright windowsill works well, kept out of direct sun, with only the bare stem submerged and the leaves held clear of the surface. Any leaf touching water will rot and foul the jar. Fresh water every couple of days prevents that. A clear jar makes progress easy to check. Roots usually show in seven to fourteen days, and once they reach an inch (2.5cm) the cutting is ready to pot up. I'm a big fan of this propagation station from Amazon, which turns the whole process into a work of art.

Rooting straight into moist potting mix skips a step. Water roots and soil roots are not quite the same structure, so cuttings moved from jar to garden often sulk for a few days while they adjust. Push the stripped stem two inches (5cm) into damp mix. Keep it shaded and evenly watered. A gentle tug after ten days will say whether it has taken. A tray of 4-inch nursery pots from Amazon can handle a dozen at once, about the right number to lose a couple and still come out ahead. Rooting hormone is optional at best on tomatoes. If you do want to use it, go with this one from Amazon.

Getting Them Through the Heat

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A rootless cutting in August has no way to replace what it loses. Afternoon sun is the main threat for the first two weeks. Morning light with shade from noon onward is about right, whether that comes from the east side of a building or from a panel of shade cloth from Home Depot stretched over hoops. The same goes for a cutting set in the ground rather than a pot.

Humidity helps as well. A clear plastic bag propped over the pot for a few days keeps the leaves from drying faster than the stem can supply them, though it has to come off once new growth appears. Keep the mix damp rather than wet – cuttings rot about as easily as they root. Once the plant is pushing fresh leaves, a week of gradually longer sun gets it ready for a permanent spot.

Racing the First Frost

(Image credit: Iryna Boiko/Getty Images)

Timing is the honest catch here. Rooted cutting to ripe fruit runs somewhere around eight to ten weeks in decent conditions, which puts an early August start into fruit by mid October across much of the country. Cherry tomatoes and the smaller plum tomatoes ripen fastest. Their fruit sizes up in a fraction of the time a big slicer needs, and a plant loaded with twenty small tomatoes beats one holding two green softballs.

Cold is manageable up to a point. A frost cover from Walmart thrown over the row buys several degrees on the nights that would otherwise end things. Anything growing in a pot can move to a porch instead. Tomatoes picked at the first blush of color finish ripening indoors, so a late flush never goes to waste.

The whole thing costs a jar and some patience. There is something quietly satisfying about eating fruit in November off a shoot that was headed for the compost pile in August.

Late summer can be a tough time for many garden plants, but hydrangeas are having a particularly rough time this year. With such hot August temperatures and many areas in drought, it would be surprising if you’re not seeing signs of seasonal distress with a noticeably brown hydrangea. Browning flowers or crisp leaves don’t automatically mean your shrub is dead or past saving, and there are many reasons why hydrangeas turn brown in August. But because of this year's extreme El Niño summer, how you deal with these symptoms is critical to whether or not your shrub recovers, and how well.

For a start, don't panic if your hydrangea droops dramatically in the heat of the afternoon, especially if it's also getting sun late in the day. This is a normal response as the plant is transpiring (losing) water through its leaves faster than the roots can pull water up through the soil. Once the sun goes down and temperatures drop a little, you should see the plant perk up again.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

While drooping is normal, it's essential to take heed of this warning sign and keep a close eye on your plant. If its response progresses to browning flowers or leaves, your hydrangea is undergoing more significant stress and it’s time to act. With a careful diagnosis and a plan of attack, as well as essential hydrangea care in August, you can stop the damage from spreading and protect healthy growth so the plant can recover. Find your specific symptoms below to discover exactly what to do next, and hopefully save your brown hydrangea this heatwave summer.

STAGE#1 My Hydrangea Flowers Are Starting to Turn Brown

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Flower browning isn’t necessarily an issue. For many hydrangeas, this is a natural transition as flowers fade and, because of the hot and dry weather, that may be happening earlier than usual this summer. If yours is a bigleaf hydrangea, it's good to know that Hydrangea macrophylla is more prone to flower wilting and premature browning than other types.

However, normal browning occurs slowly. If flowers brown more suddenly during hot and dry conditions, and you spot other distress signs like wilted leaves, that's due to water or heat stress, or blooms being scorched by the sun.

If your hydrangea is showing signs of premature stress-browning on the flowers, check the soil first. Push your finger several inches into the ground or use a moisture meter like this Long-Probe Soil Moisture Meter from Walmart. If the soil is dry below the surface, your plant needs more water. The solution is to give it a deep soak at the soil level, as opposed to a light or overhead sprinkling.

Use a soaker hose like this Element Rubber Soaker Hose from Lowe's or just hold a regular hose nozzle at the base of the plant with the faucet turned half-on. Slower and longer is better to let the water penetrate deeply into the soil. Move the hose outward as you go, ensuring you soak the soil all around the drip line (the soil beneath the outer rim of the shrub, where rain shed from the shrub would fall most heavily) as roots will be concentrated here, rather than by the main stem. If your hydrangea is potted, soak the soil well and repeat as soon as the soil dries again, which might be daily during a heat spell.

Reinvigorating tired, heat-stressed plants with a seaweed tonic in August will also help, as it stimulates roots to take up more nutrients and moisture from the soil.

You can also help revive your plant by providing some protection from heat and sun in the afternoon. Move potted plants into a shaded spot. For in-ground shrubs, rig up a garden shade cloth such as this from Amazon, or even a patio umbrella, to create temporary shade. Laying a 2-3 inch layer of natural mulch such as Miracle-Gro Organic Mulch from Walmart will also help keep water in the soil and roots cool, but keep it away from the main stem to prevent rot.

STAGE#2 My Hydrangea Flowers Are Totally Brown

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Again, brown hydrangea flowers is a situation with two possibilities: either the flowers have naturally reached the end of their lives and your hydrangea has done blooming, or they're browning prematurely due to seasonal stress. To tell the difference, look at the rest of the plant. Is it healthy and vigorous or wilting and turning brown elsewhere?

If the plant looks stressed in addition to having brown flowers, it needs some attention to revive it, so follow the Stage #1 steps of watering, shading and mulching, plus the relevant advice for further stages if needs be.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Whether flowers have turned completely brown because the plant is stressed or the shrub is simply done blooming, it's best to remove them. Use a clean pair of hand pruners such as these Fiskars Steel-Blade Pruners from Walmart. Do make sure blades are sharp – healing crushed, ragged cuts will place unnecessary stress on the plant, and sharpening pruners is a two-minute task with a tool like this $7 Garden Guru blade sharpener from Amazon. For bigleaf hydrangeas which bloom on old wood, make the cut just below the base of the faded flower, as cutting off too much growth in August will compromise next year’s blooms. For panicle and smooth hydrangeas that bloom on new wood, cut back to the first healthy set of leaves.

STAGE#3 My Hydrangea Leaves Are Turning Brown at the Edges

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Brown, crispy edges on otherwise green leaves, brown tips to green leaves, and dry, curling brown areas on leaves are all signs of heat and drought stress on hydrangeas. Other big clues that this browning is due to seasonal stress is if it's occurred during or just after a heatwave or drought, and if the soil is dry when you test it with your finger or a moisture meter.

To revive your hydrangea at this stage, start with a deep soak of the plant’s roots, both for potted and in-ground plants, following the steps for Stage #1. Repeat as needed, which means checking the soil moisture daily, especially for potted plants. It’s better to water deeply and less frequently than to water daily and only lightly, but container plants often need daily deep soakings, especially in hot weather, so be guided by your moisture meter.

Follow the Stage #1 steps for mulching and shading, too.

Resist the urge to remove all the leaves with brown edges or tips and tidy up your plant. If most of a leaf is green, it’s still conducting photosynthesis and is useful to the plant’s recovery.

STAGE#4 My Hydrangea Leaves Are Totally Brown and Dropping

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If the damage has progressed to completely brown hydrangea leaves that are dropping from the shrub, the cause may be severe heat and drought stress or it can indicate standing water at the roots or a disease. Here’s how to tell what's troubling your hydrangea.

Leaves that are dry, crispy and brown typically indicate heat and drought stress. If there's still some healthy growth on your plant, the heat and drought stress can be reversed. Water, mulch and shade as outlined in Stage #1, and use your moisture meter to decide how regularly the plant needs watering. Remove any leaves that are totally brown and dead. Don't fertilize, as feeding a severely stressed plant can cause more damage.

Leaves that are softer and yellowish rather than brown are likely caused by too much moisture. Check the soil with your moisture meter to confirm and, if you believe the issue is due to too much water, stop watering immediately and let the soil dry out. If the hydrangea doesn't show any signs of recovery, you probably have a drainage issue. Dig the plant up and trim off any rotting, mushy roots, and improve soil drainage by adding sand or compost before replanting, or move to a spot with faster-draining soil.

If you're growing a hydrangea in a container, check there is a drainage hole and that it isn't blocked. Raising the pot on risers such as these Invisible Pot Feet from Amazon will improve drainage, or you may need to repot your hydrangea. Using a moisture-control mix such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix from Walmart will help regulate water levels.

Leaves that have browned as spots joined into patches indicates disease. Move onto Stage #5, pronto!

STAGE#5 My Hydrangea Leaves Have Brown Spots

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Browning due to heat and drought stress tends to start at the edges and move inward. If the browning begins with spots on hydrangea leaves, your plant may be diseased. Some of the typical patterns of disease on hydrangea leaves include:

• Small brown or tan spots
• Spots that have dark edges
• Multiple spots that merge into larger discolored areas
• More spots on older leaves

If you suspect disease rather than seasonal weather stress, start by removing damaged leaves and cleaning up any that have fallen to the ground, wearing rubber-coated gloves such as these from Amazon. Fungal spores can transfer from infected leaves to healthy foliage so dip pruner blades into isopropyl alcohol such as this from Amazon to disinfect between cuts. Rake up any dropped leaves, too; a shrub rake such as this from Lowe's makes the job easier. Dispose of all this plant material in the garbage, and don't add it to a compost pile.

Next, change your watering practices, avoiding overhead watering and irrigating shrubs at their base so you don’t get the leaves wet, as damp foliage welcomes disease. Water in the morning so any splashes dry quickly. Improving airflow helps make conditions less conducive to disease, too, so if your hydrangea seems crowded, trim out some stems to allow more air movement.

Take some photos, too. Then, if your hydrangea doesn't recover after these measures, check with your local nursery or extension office to diagnose the exact disease and find a treatment. You can still likely save hydrangea shrubs if you act quickly and use the correct product.

STAGE#6 Is My Hydrangea Dead?

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None of the above measures will help if your hydrangea is already dead. However, don't presume that your shrub is entirely dead, but test whether individual stems are alive.

Use your fingernail or the edge of shears to lightly and gently scratch a small section of the outer layer of the stem. If you find green tissue underneath, it’s still alive. If it’s brown, the stem is dead – but work your way down the stem to see if you find any green, living tissue closer to the base. Prune any dead stems, either to the base of the plant if there are no signs or life, or back to where you find green tissue.

Follow the watering, mulching and shading steps for Stage #1 and, if there is sufficient life left in the main stems and the roots are healthy, your plant can recover, but it may take some time.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A brown hydrangea can be disheartening, but it doesn’t necessarily mean your hydrangea is lost. Take your time to diagnose the problem first, and then you can work on a solution to bring it back to life. With the right care, chances are your hydrangea will be back to full bloom next year.

Perennials bought by the pot add up quickly, which is part of why seed saving keeps drifting back into fashion. The other part is timing. August sits in the middle of the ripening season for a lot of garden favorites. Pods that looked plump and soft in July are turning brown and brittle right about now.

Advice on the subject tends to point toward seed harvesting in autumn, which suits the last bloomers but comes far too late for anything that flowered in June. On some of these, a week of waiting costs the whole crop. One clump watched closely can teach more than any calendar can.

Perennials to Collect Seeds from in August

Three habits apply no matter what is being collected. Work on a dry afternoon rather than the morning after rain. Leave seeds out somewhere indoors and airy for a week to finish curing. Then store your seeds – these paper seed envelopes from Amazon are a better bet than a jar, because they won't allow moisture to build up.

1. Columbine

(Image credit: Belova Veronika / Getty Images)

Columbine ripens ahead of nearly everything else here, so early August is often the last call instead of the opening bell. The pods stand upright in clusters of five and split across the top once the seed inside has gone glossy black. Tip the stem over a bowl and it empties in one motion. Green seed will not keep, however carefully it gets dried. Hardy from zones 3 to 8, columbine self-sows with real enthusiasm, so the volunteers crowding around the parent are worth leaving alone as a backup supply.

2. Oriental Poppy

(Image credit: Lialina Olena / Shutterstock)

Oriental poppy comes in the most convenient packaging in the garden. Its capsule dries to a hard tan shell with a ring of tiny openings under the cap. Turn one upside down and a fine dark dust pours out, barely coarser than ground pepper. Rattle a few before picking, because a capsule that stays silent has not finished ripening. Zones 3 to 7 are within range. The crown dies back to nothing by midsummer, so note where it sits while the stems are still standing.

3. Hollyhock

(Image credit: chuchart duangdaw / Getty Images)

Flat green disks follow the flowers up a hollyhock spike. The ones near the bottom ripen weeks ahead of those at the top. Wait until a disk turns papery brown and breaks into wedges under light pressure. Each wedge holds a single seed. Zones 3 to 8 is the usual range, though hollyhock behaves more like a biennial than a true perennial, which is exactly why keeping a supply on hand matters.

4. Perennial Lupine

(Image credit: Dmitry Bakulov)

Lupine gives almost no warning at all. Its pods shift from green to gray-brown over a couple of days, then twist open and fling the seed several feet (about 1m) clear of the crown. Check them every morning once the color starts to turn. A pair of bypass pruning shears from Home Depot makes short work of the whole stalk. The stalk can then finish splitting inside a paper bag where nothing escapes. It grows across zones 3 to 8. Weevils get into a percentage most years, so a spell in the freezer counts as cheap insurance before the seed goes away for winter.

5. Blazing Star

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Blazing star never makes the moment obvious, because the spike turns tan from the top downward over several weeks. Tug gently at the fluff. Seed that lets go without a fight is ready. The rest needs more time. Blazing star performs from zone 3 to zone 9. It also puts out a fair number of hollow duds alongside the good material, so roll a few between finger and thumb — the plump ones are easy to feel out from the empty. There is no need to clean the fluff out of a batch before it goes into a packet.

6. Balloon Flower

(Image credit: Katrin Ray Shumakov/Getty Images)

Balloon flower capsules split into a neat five-pointed star at the top when the contents are ready. By then the stem has usually yellowed. Cut below the capsule and turn it over. Flat dark seed slides straight out with no cleaning needed. The comfortable range runs from zone 3 to zone 8. That long taproot makes division a gamble, and replacements raised from saved seed prove far more dependable than lifting and splitting an old clump. Wet weather during ripening spoils more batches than birds ever do.

7. Anise Hyssop

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Anise hyssop, also known as agastache, asks less of a gardener than anything else on this list. The flower spike dries into a brown bottlebrush. By mid-August the seed is loose inside it, so a bag held underneath and a firm shake will collect most of what is there. What comes off is more chaff than seed at first. Push the mix through a 1mm straining mesh sheets from Walmart and the chaff stays behind. Zones 4 to 8 are home ground. It self-sows freely enough that some gardeners cut the spikes purely to keep the colony in check.

Your lawn mower is one of the hardest-working tools you own, yet it’s often the most neglected. Skipping key checks might save you an hour today, but poor maintenance dramatically shortens your machine’s lifespan and drastically reduces cut quality. Dull blades hack at grass rather than slicing it, while dirty filters force the engine to work twice as hard, risking permanent damage. Put simply, lawn mower maintenance is essential if you want it to do its job properly.

Learning how to maintain your lawn mower also saves you money on premature repair and replacement costs. You’ll have a better sense of how easy it can be to keep yours working at its best for longer. You’ll also be simplifying your lawn care, as you’ll make the physical act of mowing your lawn a lot quicker, more efficient, and hopefully more enjoyable.

Whether you’re running a gas-powered push mower or a battery-operated model, this quick, seasonal maintenance routine helps you protect your investment, keeps your machine running reliably for longer, and gives crisp, professional-looking lawn lines all season. So before you use yours again, run through this lawn mower maintenance checklist to ensure it cuts like a dream and lasts for years to come.

What You Need Before You Start

Setting up a simple DIY workstation for these checks before you start makes lawn mower maintenance quick, clean, and safe. Don’t panic: you don’t need a professional workshop, just a few hand tools, protective clothing, and some cleaning supplies. Whatever type of lawn mower you have, your core kit should include some heavy-duty work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal edges. If you don’t already own a pair, the WZQH Heavy-Duty Leather Work Gloves from Amazon are comfortable and solid, with puncture resistant cowhide.

You should also keep an oil drain pan and funnel nearby for mess-free fluid changes, plus a stiff scraper brush, metal file or blade sharpener, cleaning cloth, and tire pressure gauge. Oh, and don’t forget to keep your manual handy! Sounds obvious, but it’s easily forgotten and really useful for double-checking extra parts (and specs) you might need. Depending on your mower type, you may also need these extras:

• Gas Mower Extras: SAE 30 engine oil, replacement spark plug, spark plug socket wrench, new air filter, fuel stabilizer, oil drain pan, funnel.
• Battery/Electric Extras: Multimeter (for testing voltage) and a dry microfiber cloth for battery terminal contact points.

Maintenance Essentials

Find a little room in the garage or shed for these key care items to prevent stubborn grass buildup, keep the blades cutting cleanly, and protect your engine season after season. Here are the top-rated extras every lawn mower owner needs in their kit.

Deck & Housing Care

Harrison Greys Harrison Greys Heavy Duty Scrubbing Brush

Safety comes first when scraping away gunked-up turf from under the deck. This ergonomic brush features stiff bristles and a flat scraper edge to lift away caked-on mud and dried grass without damaging the mower’s protective powder coating. Fantastic for keeping the underside smooth and clean.

Under-Deck Protection

Stens Stens Mo-Deck Non-Stick Lawn Mower Spray, 11 Fl Oz

Wet grass clippings and damp soil can act like concrete under a mower deck, leading to rust and dragged engine performance. A quick spritz of this non-stick coating on a clean deck stops grass from clinging, making post-mow cleanup as simple as a quick rinse. Essential for keeping air flowing freely under the deck.

Blade Precision

Sharpal Sharpal 103n All-In-1 Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener

Dull mower blades shred grass instead of cutting it, leaving ugly brown, frayed tips. This heavy-duty sharpener takes all the guesswork out of blade care by restoring a factory bevel edge in a few strokes. Compact and ergonomic, it keeps your mower blades razor-sharp without power tools or complex setups.

7 Lawn Mower Maintenance Checks

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Whether you own a gas-powered mower or a battery-powered machine, this maintenance checklist is invaluable. If you own a gas-powered mower, running through all these steps will keep your engine firing on the first pull and burning fuel efficiently. If you use a corded electric or battery-powered mower, simply focus on steps 1, 5, 6, and 7 to keep your blades sharp, your battery healthy, and your deck free of rust-causing grass buildup.

The following routine tasks are easy weekend checks and will ensure better lawn mowing. As a small note of caution, if you get to the end and sense your mower might need internal transmission repairs or deep engine overhauls, these are best left to a local servicing dealer. But the following checks will all help you check mower health, get on top of quick fixes, and ensure you keep it in the best shape possible.

Once you have consulted your mower manual for specific torque settings or part specs, grab your gloves. Before inspecting the deck or touching any moving parts, just disconnect the spark plug boot on gas mowers, or remove the safety key/battery on electric models to prevent accidental startup. Then work through these steps.

1. Prep and Clean the Exterior

(Image credit: Robin Gentry / Getty Images)

Before touching any mechanical components, give your mower a thorough exterior clean and surface inspection. Built-up damp grass, soil, and garden debris don't just look messy: they trap moisture against metal housing, leading to deck rust, clogged discharge chutes, and dragged engine performance.

Disconnect your power source, tilt the mower on its side with the air filter facing up, and scrape away dried grass underneath the deck. If your mower has pneumatic (air-filled) tires rather than solid plastic wheels, it’s important to check tire pressure and ensure this is even across all tires. Uneven tire pressure can result in an uneven and inconsistent cut. If you don’t have one, invest in a pressure gauge like the AstroAI ATG250 Digital Tire Pressure Gauge from Amazon. This is an excellent universal tool that works on mower tires, wheelbarrows, and car tires.

Once you’ve checked the tires, wipe down the outer deck shell and spray metal joints with a protective water-displacing lubricant. Spray with some WD-40 Multi-Use (Smart Straw) from Walmart to protect and lubricate your lawn mower.

How often? Clean the under-deck after every 1-2 mows, check tire pressure monthly during the cutting season.

2. Change the Engine Oil

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Changing the oil is the single most effective way to extend the lifespan of a gas-powered lawn mower. Over time, engine oil degrades, collecting dirt, carbon deposits, and microscopic metal shavings that cause internal friction. Fresh, clean oil keeps engine components properly lubricated, running cool, and operating smoothly. (Note: If you run a battery or electric mower, you can skip this step entirely.)

Start the engine for 2-3 minutes to warm up the fluid (warm oil drains far quicker than cold). Then turn off the engine and remove the spark plug boot for safety. Position a low-profile drain pan alongside the mower, remove the dipstick cap, and carefully tilt the machine onto its side to drain the old oil completely.

Once emptied, set the mower level on all four wheels, insert a narrow-spout funnel, and refill with the exact oil type and weight specified in your owner's manual (typically SAE 30 or 10W-30). Briggs & Stratton SAE 30 Four-Stroke Engine Oil (48 oz) from Walmart is excellent for most gas-powered push and riding mowers. Be careful not to overfill, check the level with your dipstick, and then secure the cap.

How often? After every 25-50 hours of use, or at least once per season before winter storage.

3. Refresh the Air and Fuel Filters

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Your mower’s engine relies on a clean mixture of air and gasoline to generate steady cutting power. Over the course of a single lawn care season, dust, fine turf debris, and fuel grit build up inside your filters, starving the engine. Regularly replacing the air filter is crucial, especially in dusty conditions. A damaged filter can lead to problems starting your lawn mower and a noticeable loss of power during use.

Start by unclipping the air filter cover on the side of the engine. If your model uses a pleated paper filter, tap it against a hard surface to knock off loose dust. If the air filter is damaged, worn, or still dirty after cleaning, you need to replace it. Swap in a new one if the paper is black or oil-stained. You can buy a Briggs & Stratton Flat Air Filter Cartridge from Amazon. Foam filters can simply be washed in warm, soapy water, squeezed dry, and reinstalled.

Next, inspect the fuel filter along the main fuel line. A clogged filter blocks gas from reaching the carburetor, which has the potential to stop the mower from being usable altogether. Without change, this can cause poor engine performance and eventually has the potential to stop the mower from being usable. Clamp the fuel line with a hose pinch pliers to prevent spills, slide off the metal retaining clips, and swap in a fresh fuel filter like the Sunbelt Universal Fuel Filter from Lowe’s. Then secure the clamps back into place.

How often? Clean or replace the air filter every 3 months (or once a season), and swap the fuel filter annually.

4. Check and Replace the Spark Plug

(Image credit: Nigel Cattlin / Alamy)

A dirty, corroded, or carbon-fouled spark plug prevents proper ignition, making your mower difficult to start and causing the engine to misfire or stall when cutting thick turf. And the thing is, spark plugs are well within most budgets and easy to swap.

To replace the plug, gently pull off the rubber ignition cable boot. Use a dedicated spark plug socket wrench to unscrew the old plug counterclockwise. Before buying a replacement, check your manual to match your exact engine type. If your existing plug just has light carbon buildup, you can often clean the tip with a wire brush and keep using it. However, if the porcelain insulator is cracked, the electrode is eroded, rounded, or heavy dark soot won't come off, it's time for a new one.

For standard side-valve engines, the very highly rated Champion RJ19LM from Amazon is the most common industry standard, while modern overhead-valve (OHV) engines typically require a Champion RC12YC, also from Amazon. Inspect the gap on your new plug before installing to ensure it meets factory specifications. Thread the new spark plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading the delicate aluminum cylinder head, then tighten firmly with your wrench until seated snug against the washer. Reattach the ignition cable, and your ignition system is set for the season.

How often? Replace every 1-2 years (or after 100 hours of operation).

5. Inspect and Sharpen the Blades

(Image credit: Cappi Thompson / Getty Images)

Dull mower blades hack and tear at grass rather than cutting it cleanly. So inspecting and sharpening your lawn mower blade at least once a season ensures a crisp, healthy cut that keeps your lawn looking lush. Safety is essential: check the spark plug boot is disconnected or the electric battery is removed before touching the blade. Wearing your gloves, use a socket wrench to unscrew the central retention bolt and remove the blade. Clean off any caked-on grass and sap with warm, soapy water and a stiff sponge.

Clamp the blade firmly in a bench vise or against a sturdy workbench. Then sharpen with your metal file or blade sharpener. If you haven’t got one, the Sharpal 103N All-in-1 Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener from Amazon is a compact, easy choice that can usually get the job done in a few quick strokes. Place at the same angle as the blade edge and push down and forward. Work in smooth, one-direction strokes until the edge is clean and free of minor nicks. Before reinstalling, balance the blade on a nail or balancing cone to ensure one side isn't heavier than the other, which causes dangerous engine vibration.

How often? Sharpen every 25-30 hours of mowing (or twice per season), and replace damaged blades every 1-2 years.

6. Check the Battery and Drive Belt

(Image credit: JJ Gouin / Getty Images)

If your lawn mower has a battery, you’ll need to check it’s in good working order. Most gas push mowers don’t have a battery, but riding mowers, electric-start models, and cordless battery mowers do rely on them. For cordless electric mowers, press the built-in charge indicator button to check remaining cell health, and recharge if needed. On gas riding or electric-start mowers, inspect terminal posts for white corrosion. Wipe clean with a dry cloth, and check charge levels using a digital multimeter. If you need a good voltage tester, you can pick up the highly rated AstroAI Digital Multimeter Voltage Tester from Walmart (which is also handy for checking car and household batteries).

Next, inspect the rubber drive belt linking the engine to the transmission or cutting deck. Mower belts should be checked regularly. There is no specific timeline on how often these should be replaced, as their lifetime depends on operating conditions. Just check that belts are not worn, frayed, or cracked, and are correctly tensioned. If a belt appears stretched or glazed, consult your owner's manual for replacement part numbers or pop into a local dealer for quick installation.

How often? Check battery voltage and inspect drive belt tension at the start of spring and midway through the cutting season.

7. Stabilize Fuel and Winterize for Storage

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Untreated gasoline can begin to degrade and break down in as little as 30 days. As ethanol-blended gas sits in a fuel tank, it forms sticky varnish and gum deposits that clog the tiny passages in the mower’s carburetor. Using a quality fuel stabilizer keeps gas fresh for up to 24 months, ensuring your engine fires up effortlessly every single time. If you need a bottle of fuel stabilizer, STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer, available from Lowe’s, is the gold-standard additive for keeping small engine gas fresh.

Fuel stabilizer removes the need to drain fuel prior to storage by keeping it fresh and helping prevent buildup within the engine fuel system. Simply pour the recommended dose into your gas can or mower tank, then run the engine for 5 minutes so the treated fuel circulates through the entire fuel line. This is especially useful before putting your lawn mower in storage. Basically, you are adding a solution to the fuel that will stop it from degrading when not in use for long periods.

When preparing your machine for long-term winter storage, top off the gas tank with stabilized fuel to prevent moisture from condensing inside the tank. Finally, store your mower in a dry, covered shed or garage, and pop a heavy-duty weather cover over the deck to protect electrical components from dust and dampness.

How often? Add fuel stabilizer every time you fill your gas can; store with a full, treated tank at the end of the cutting season.

(Image credit: Liudmila Chernetska / Getty Images)

Establishing a quick, consistent lawn mower maintenance routine is the ultimate way to safeguard your gardening investment and ensure a clean, healthy cut every time you hit the grass. By taking care of simple tasks throughout the cutting season, and running through our checklist again before winter storage, you will be giving your mower (and your grass!) the best care season after season. Follow these steps, and your lawn mower will be your friend for years to come.

Frequently Asked QuestionsHow often should a lawn mower be serviced?

For standard residential use, a lawn mower should receive a full maintenance service at least once every 12 months, ideally right before the spring cutting season begins. However, if you have a large yard or mow frequently, your schedule should be based on operating hours rather than the calendar.

With standard use, gas lawn mowers should be serviced at least every 12 months. However, if used more frequently, service blades after every 25–30 hours of use, changing oil every 30 hours or so, and inspecting all other moving parts every 50 hours. Battery lawn mowers should be serviced once a year using a similar timeline.

Should I wash my lawn mower after every use?

Yes, giving the underside of your mower deck a quick clean after every 1-2 uses prevents wet grass clippings from drying into a concrete-like crust that bogs down the blades and rusts the metal deck housing. But always exercise caution when using water around an engine, though.

Disconnect the power source first, and avoid spraying cold water directly onto a hot gas engine block immediately after mowing, as rapid temperature shifts can crack the metal housing or damage sensitive gasket seals. Allow the machine to cool down before rinsing, and always brush away loose debris around electrical ports on battery models using a dry cloth or soft brush instead of a hose.

How often should I oil my lawn mower?

You should check your oil level with the dipstick before every single mowing session to make sure the engine isn’t running dry, topping up with small amounts as needed. However, a complete oil drain and replacement should be performed after every 25-50 hours of use ,or at least once at the end of each cutting season. In particularly dusty, dry, or sandy conditions, more frequent oil changes may be necessary to prevent grit from entering the crankcase.

Which way should I tip my lawn mower when working on it?

When tilting a gas lawn mower onto its side to clean under the deck or access the blades, always tilt the mower with the spark plug and air filter pointing up to the sky. If you tip the mower with the air filter facing downward, engine oil will drain out of the crankcase into the air filter housing and carburetor. This saturates the paper filter element, causes smoke upon startup, and can prevent the engine from firing. If in doubt, consult your manual for the manufacturer's recommended tilt direction.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

By August, many plants are exhausted by heat and lack of water and stop flowering – but not these tough-cookie late-season bloomers. They flower reliably all through August, September and into October, with barely any assistance from you. So don’t think you have to compromise on flower power because we’re having a hot, dry summer: you just need one of these late-season heroes in your garden.

Plants that keep flowering for months on end aren’t just appreciated by us humans, but by pollinators, too, many of whom will be fuelling up ahead of long migration journeys. Resilient plants like our superstar bloomers are particularly valuable, however. When a plant is stressed by heat or drought, one of its first responses is to limit water loss by reducing nectar production. So, by growing an array of tolerant plants that cope well with summer stressors, you not only provide flowers, but flowers that are still full to the brim of nectar.

Another factor to consider if you want plants that keep on flowering when everything else gives up is how palatable they are to deer and rabbits. As we approach the end of a long, hot summer, food becomes scarcer for herbivores so they may turn to garden plants they wouldn’t otherwise eat – and fresh flower buds are tender and packed full of nutrients. So, you’ll be happy to hear that neither deer nor rabbits like to snack on any of our plant picks.

Flower-into-Fall Blooms that Thrive on Neglect

All our late-season heroes are dependable perennials that will be back, year after year, and don’t require any fertilizing or feeding other than a spring mulch to flower well. Their highly tolerant, resilient nature means they’re suitable for a wide range of zones, so you have a great choice of plants to keep your garden packed with blooms.

1. Sneezeweed

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Hitting its stride in August, Helenium autumnale is such a reliable late-season bloomer in zones 4-9 and powers through September and into October to the first frost. And what a show! The fiery shades of red, orange and yellow revive any garden, turning up the color just as many perennials fizzle out. As the flowers age, their sculptural centers become more prominent and the petals flex backwards, too.

Helenium does need to be watered, however, and taller varieties can need staking – which is why the Salud series is so appealing. Cultivars in this series are particularly heat- and drought-tolerant and, only growing to 16 inches tall, don't need staking. These are some of the heaviest- and longest-blooming sneezeweeds, and are ignored by deer and rabbits. Salud Yellow is a saturated golden tone, while Salud Embers boasts a mix of red, orange and yellow. Sneezeweed Salud Yellow plants are available from Plant Addicts, and Salud Embers plants are available from Fast Growing Trees.

2. Woodland Sage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Salvia nemorosa blooms for months because not only does it readily produce new flushes of flowers when spent stems are removed, but the individual spires bloom sequentially from bottom to top over several weeks. So, while it starts flowering way back in May, if you snipped off the flower spikes, it’ll likely be blooming now and continue through September.

There are all sorts of salvia varieties to try, generally suitable for zones 4-9 and tolerating heat and drought once established. The Marvel series is particularly valued both for its larger flowers that keep their intense color and exceptionally long bloom-time from spring to frost. ‘Blue Marvel’ is available from Nature Hills, and ‘Rose Marvel’ is available from Plant Addicts. Growing to around a foot high and spreading up to 18 inches wide, these dependable, showy salvias are just as happy in a pot as the front of a border. While pollinators will flock to the nectar-rich flowers, deer and rabbits don't appreciate the aromatic foliage.

3. Russian Sage

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Russian sage is another Salvia no garden should be without. This trouble-free plant flowers summer into fall and provides a valuable nectar source when many other plants are fading. Long after your lavender spires have finished flowering, Salvia yangii will still be boasting beautiful blue blooms. While common Russian sage (available from Plant Addicts) tends to flop in late summer, those clever plant breeders have been busy creating more compact cultivars that bring even more flowers on immaculately-behaved stems.

‘Denim ‘n Lace’ is a Proven Winners cultivar available from Nature Hills that has a denser growth habit for lots more flowers, growing to 2-3 feet tall and wide in zones 4-9, with sky-blue flowers held in amethyst calyxes. ‘Blue Jean Baby’ by Plants that Work, also available from Nature Hills, brings similar benefits but with lavender-blue flowers that deepen to purple, and more finely-cut foliage. Both are simply sublime.

4. Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Being a succulent, Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy’ isn’t phased by drought and its dense bud clusters form slowly through summer, bursting open just as most other border perennials are starting to wind down. Sedum 'Autumn Joy' blooms change color, too, opening a pale pink before morphing into a rosier pink and finally turning a rich copper.

Happy in sun or partial shade in zones 4-9, this late-season bloomer will grow pretty much anywhere, and bigger pollinators appreciated the flat-topped flowers that act as welcoming 2-foot-high landing pads. Rabbits dislike the fleshy foliage and deer are unlikely to take more than a nibble of the bitter-tasting leaves. Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ plants are available from Fast Growing Trees.

5. New England Aster

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It’s not just us humans that can rely on the abundant summer-to-fall flowers of the New England aster, but migrating monarch butterflies, for whom this resilient plant provides vital fuel stops on their journey south. The vibrant daisy-like flowers begin to show their cheery faces in August and continue until the first hard frost.

While all New England asters are reliable late-season bloomers, ‘Grape Crush’ is a particularly good choice as it naturally grows into a self-supporting mound 2-3 feet high and wide – and some other varieties are guilty of flopping once stormy fall weather hits. The dark purple hue of the petals is intense, too, and looks all the more saturated against the flowers’ golden centres, delivering a good punch of color for months to come. Deer and rabbits dislike the dense foliage, too. Suitable for zones 3-8, Grape Crush New England Aster plants are available from Nature Hills.

6. Black-Eyed Susan

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Want flowers in August? Flowers in September? Flowers in October? Look no further than black-eyed Susan. While older varieties of rudbeckia are often troubled by leaf spot and powdery mildew which can cut short the flower show, some modern cultivars are virtually immune and will continue blooming for months.

If you want the classic black-eyed Susan look, then American Gold Rush, available from Garden Goods Direct, should be your go-to as it has been bred for incredible disease resistance, growing to a foot high and 1-2 feet wide in zones 3-8. ‘Little Goldstar’, available from Nature Hills and suitable for zones 4-9, is a shade taller at 16" high and boasts the heaviest bloom density of all black-eyed Susans, also flowering through August and September into October.

Both have stems and leaves covered in fuzzy hairs that save it from being nibbled when food is scarce, yet pollinators adore the nectar-rich flowers.

7. Japanese anemones

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It’s true, Japanese anemones can be as thuggish as they are beautiful in the garden and, though they’re not classed as invasive, do spread through underground rhizomes. In a large planter, though, they’re the most reliable bloomers and a real backyard asset.

As well as keeping these enthusiastic plants corralled in a container, you'll want to stop them self-seeding around your garden, which is easily done by choosing a modern hybrid cultivar that’s been bred to have sterile, unviable seeds. These have typically been bred to spread far more slowly, too, so you don’t have to worry about the plant escaping from its pot. Sterile variety Fall in Love Sweetly is available from Plant Addicts and grows to 2 feet high and wide in zones 4-8 with semi-double rose-pink blooms, creating a container packed with flowers for months on end.

If you'd rather grow Japanese anemones in a border, then choose a dwarf variety that won’t spread as quickly as its taller cousins, such as Fantasy Red Riding Hood, available from Nature Hills which grows 1-2 feet tall and wide in zones 5-9. Even slugs don’t tend to like chewing Japanese Anemone’s fibrous leaves, and deer and rabbits leave them well alone.

Have you ever heard of box tree moths? I hadn’t until my sister’s boxwood shrubs suddenly looked like they had been fried to a crisp. The box tree moth (Cydalima perspectalis) is an invasive species of insect that is spreading throughout the United States, Canada, and Europe and destroys boxwood shrubs.

An infestation can turn lush boxwood shrubs into twigs in a matter of weeks. Early detection and treatment is key to getting rid of boxwood moths and protecting your shrubs from future damage.

Simple cultural and biological controls like cutting back infested shrubs and applying a Bacillus thuringiensis var. Kurstaki spray, available on Amazon, can help stop the infestation. Keep reading to learn more about box tree moths and how to protect your boxwoods from this very hungry caterpillar.

What is a Box Tree Moth?Adult box tree mothimageBROKER/Wilfried Martin / Getty ImagesBox tree moth caterpillarsDamianKuzdak / Getty Images

Box tree moths (BTM) are a species of moth whose larvae (caterpillars) can strip a healthy boxwood shrub (Buxus spp.) of all its leaves and kill it in a few weeks. These garden pests are native to Asia but have spread quickly through Europe and have now made it to the United States and Canada. As of 2021, the USDA has confirmed box tree moths in Delaware, Kentucky, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and West Virginia.

Adult box tree moths generally have white wings with brown borders, but they are mostly active at night and hard to spot. The larvae of box tree moths are lime-green caterpillars with black stripes, white spots and a shiny black head. These shrub pests are about an inch in length and are the only type of pest that will fully defoliate boxwood shrubs.

Box tree moth damage starts with missing parts of leaves and progresses into “curlicue” damage to leaves where there is just the central vein of the leaf left which turns brown. Eventually, the shrub looks like a crispy, brown skeleton of itself. You might see webbing and small caterpillars amongst leaves and twigs and sawdust-like frass (excrement) on or around the infested shrubs.

Unfortunately, BTM can overwinter easily and survive temperatures as low as -22 degrees Fahrenheit (-30 C). It is important to spot the infestation and begin treatment as soon as possible to prevent them from overwintering and spreading further next spring when they wake up.

How Do You Get Rid of Boxwood Moths?

Now that you have determined you have a box tree moth infestation, it is time to get to work treating it. It is a good idea to contact your local extension office and report the infestation, too, as this is a newly arrived invasive species and tracking is important.

Cultural Controls

(Image credit: LoNa Arts / Getty Images)

Trimming boxwoods back as much as possible will remove damaged branches and the BTM caterpillars and pupae. It is very important that you place any affected plant material into two trash bags and dispose of it in the trash. Double-bagging will help prevent these boxwood shrub pests from escaping and damaging other shrubs.

Do not compost affected leaves and branches and don’t leave it in the street for the city to pick up. This will allow BTM caterpillars to spread.

Remove leaves, yard debris, and mulch from under the affected boxwood shrubs to reduce the places the caterpillars can overwinter.

Biological Controls

(Image credit: Klaus Bargheer / Getty Images)

Luckily, one of the best methods of treatment is easily found at your local garden center. Bacillus thuringiensis var. Kurstaki is a naturally occurring bacterium found in soil that targets leaf-chewing caterpillars like box tree moth larvae. Beneficial insects, humans, and pets are unaffected by it and you can even find it on Amazon. Simply spray it on the leaves of your infested boxwoods and the bacterium kills the larvae as soon as they ingest it.

If you have treated your boxwoods and they don’t bounce back next spring, it might be a good idea to swap out your shrubs for native shrubs that are similar but more resistant to pests and diseases like a ‘Soft Touch’ holly shrub or Tater Tot thuja shrub from Fast Growing Trees.

Frequently Asked QuestionsWill a box tree recover from moth damage?

Yes, if an infestation is caught and treated early, boxwoods can bounce back from box tree moth damage.

Why is the box tree moth a problem?

The box tree moth is an non-native insect that quickly and thoroughly destroys boxwood shrubs and is spreading across North America. Boxwoods are some of the most commonly planted ornamental shrubs in the U.S. and widescale destruction of them means gardeners are having to spend more money to replace them. Additionally, destruction of boxwoods at nurseries negatively affects the industry through lost sales and cost of pest control.

As if life isn’t hard enough, you open your mailbox to find a violation notice from your Homeowners Association (HOA). You scan it quickly and learn that the powers-that-be have determined that there are weeds in your lawn that violate your community's landscaping guidelines.

Can the HOA do this? The simple answer is: maybe, if they have spelled out the rule clearly and unambiguously in the Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&Rs). But there are many circumstances that can provide a strong defense.

I’ll walk you through some of the basics about how to landscape in an HOA and what the association can and can’t do about weeds in your yard. Plus, I’ll share tips to keep you out of trouble.

Understanding HOA Rules

A homeowners association is an organization in a planned community, condo, or subdivision that makes and enforces rules for properties. It’s often called an HOA. The HOA is responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of common areas and shared spaces in the community, and each unit pays a regular fee to cover these fees.

The HOA gets its authority from the written contract every owner of the association signs as they move into the community called the Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions. These are the rules and regulations that govern the group. The HOA does not enforce state law or federal law – it only has authority to enforce the CC&Rs.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)Can an HOA Fine You for Weeds?

One of the primary responsibilities of the HOA is to maintain the landscape of the community so that it is pleasing and uniform. To achieve that, CC&Rs often include provisions to maintain “attractive” yards or to prohibit “ugly” vegetation. In many cases, the rules prohibit weeds or noxious weeds.

These laws can be enforced to the extent the language is clear and explicit and the regulations are not selectively enforced. But state laws can impact the enforcement of CC&Rs, since many state laws require that an HOA member be sent a formal written warning as well as a chance to remedy the issue within a timeframe before a fine is charged. Hearings and appeals are generally part of the procedure as well before the fine is final.

(Image credit: Lightspring / Shutterstock)What Is a Weed?

The basic problem with this type of regulation is that the term “weed” has no specific definition or any botanical category. Generally, a weed is defined as any plant growing in a place where it is not wanted. That means that even high-value crops, flowers, or native species can be classified as weeds if they grow where humans do not want them.

I’ve seen this in my own neighborhood. In my area of San Francisco, the soil is basically sand. That’s because the area is within a mile of the Pacific Ocean. It started out as sand dunes and remained that way for the first few chapters in the history of San Francisco. As the population increased, houses were built on the dunes closer and closer to the ocean.

Our entire yard is sand and only a few flowering plants grow on it without adding lots of bags of soil. One such plant is the nasturtium. This tough, self-seeding, vining annual lit up the backyard with bright orange blossoms when we moved in.

Neighbors had the same experience, but many didn’t like the nasturtiums and labeled them as weeds. I cultivated them and consider them one of the best flowering plants in the garden even today. Another “weed” I cultivate is pokeweed. Plus, birds absolutely love their spikes of berries.

(Image credit: Grace Cary / Getty Images)How to Defend Your Weeds

If you are ready for a fight, then plant what you want and get ready to defend yourself against a landscape violation. Here are three strong defenses you can take to court.

1. Vagueness

Is it too vague if CC&Rs prohibit weeds? Generally, no. Courts tend to find that terms like "weeds" provide adequate notice to property owners because there is a general understanding of the meaning. However, subjective terms like “ugly” vegetation or “unsightly” plants may not be specific enough to be enforced.

2. Drought

When a state is suffering from drought, water conservation can be a legal defense to weed violations. When there are water restrictions in effect, homeowners in states like California and Arizona are permitted to allow native plants to grow, including those considered weeds and to allow lawns to go dormant.

(Image credit: Mark Baldwin / Shutterstock)3. Native Species Defense

To get around the vagueness of the term weeds, HOAs sometimes list plants that will be considered weeds. These lists often include native species, since they are not considered as valuable as cultivated plants.

But we now know that native plants have advantages that fancy plants may not offer. For one, native plants support local pollinators, birds, and ecosystems. If you plant beneficial native species, you may be out of sync with your HOA rules.

But some states and cities – especially in the West – now recognize native plant yards as compliant with landscaping standards and do not permit fines for this kind of HOA violation.

Tips to Stay Out of Trouble

If your life is complicated enough, you’ll want to take steps to avoid landscaping issues with your HOA. Follow these three steps to stay out of trouble.

1. Read the CC&Rs

The CC&Rs are one of those documents – like insurance policies and rental car agreements – that people tend to sign without reading. But if you want to avoid landscaping conflicts with the HOA, take the time to read them. What exactly does the document prohibit? If it is “weeds” or “noxious weeds,” then how are those terms defined?

(Image credit: Shutterstock)2. Ask Your HOA

Don’t be reluctant to run your questions about landscaping requirements by HOA officials. If the CC&Rs don’t define the terms, consider raising the question at an HOA meeting, and volunteer to be part of a committee to consider defining terms.

3. Present Your Case

If you want your backyard to be full of native wildflowers instead of hybrid roses, build a case and take it to the HOA meeting. Explain the role of native plants in a thriving ecosystem and show slides of native flowering plants to show other homeowners how attractive they can be. If necessary, call in someone from your local botanical garden to talk about the benefits of native species.

Essential Weeding Tools

Grampa's Weeder Original Stand Up Weed Puller Tool

The Grampa's Weeder has been around for decades, but Content Editor Laura just found out how effective it is against dandelions and other weeds.

A.M. Leonard Deluxe Soil Knife

Content Editor Kathleen swears by this soil knife for easy weed removal and countless other tasks in her landscape.

Spruce Snap & Spray Weed & Grass Killer

This weed killer spray is safe for people, pets, and pollinators. Try it on the most stubborn weeds in your landscape.

It's been almost a year since we lost one of the world's greatest naturalists and animal advocates: Jane Goodall. Of course everyone knowns Goodall for her work with chimpanzees. Do a google image search, and about half the results show her sharing the spotlight with a chimp. But her passion extended to the rest of the natural world, and her outreach was often centered on convincing us humans to understand our place in it.

In an interview with Smithsonian Magazine, Goodall had something remarkable to say about plants, and humankind's connection with them:

It's been proven by quite a few studies that plants are good for our psychological development. If you green an area, the rate of crime goes down. Torture victims begin to recover when they spend time outside in a garden with flowers. So we need them, in some deep psychological sense, which I don't suppose anybody really understands yet.

Jane Goodall, February 2013

This quote is in response to a question about endangered species: "Ecologically, when people think about endangered species, they mostly consider animals. Why should we be concerned about plants?" The underlying point, I think, is that without plants humans may very well end up on the endangered species list as well.

Welcome to Quote of the Week, a series where every Monday I'll take a look at a notable quotation about plants, gardening, and nature, and explore what it can teach us all about our connection to the garden. This week we'll be looking at the inimitable Jane Goodall.

"Without Plants, We Wouldn't Exist."

Jane Goodall's quote puts into words what most of us feel innately – that gardening and green spaces have a positive effect on human life. Here's an article on the Freedom From Torture charity in the UK that focuses on just that. And here's a study reflecting green space's ability to lower crime rates. The internet is full of studies and foundations proving Goodall's point.

What none of them mention is what I believe Goodall is getting at. She says that one of the greatest threats for endangered species is loss of habitat. Losing habitat doesn't only mean these animals have nowhere to live. (After all, you wouldn't say they've gained habitat with the construction of a new zoo). Habitat loss, for them, means losing the place they can live and thrive.

So aren't we humans, with every green space we destroy, losing our own habitat? We're creating a place we can live, sure, but not a place we can thrive.

That's why, as Dame Goodall says, we need plants in a deep psychological sense. It's the only way we can really exist in our natural state.

Planting Natural Habitat

Goodall worked tirelessly to sustain natural habitat, both for wildlife and for human beings. In a truly inspiring Instagram post, a teacher shared photos of two trees Goodall had donated to her school over thirty years earlier. You have to wonder just how many trees are out there that she's directly responsible for.

Jane Goodall Planting Trees

A photo posted by on

Create Your Own Natural Habitat

Eden Brothers Native North American Wildflower Seed Mix

Burpee Pollinator Mix Wildflowers Seeds

Botanical Interests Pollinator Garden Flower Mix Seeds

Trying to squeeze more plants into a shrinking yard, tiny patio or rental balcony can be frustrating, and I have many years of knowing this. With squeezed floor space, shadows cast by buildings, and the often impractical nature of installing permanent supports, small-space growing can feel like a constant compromise. Every pot counts, and every square foot can be hotly contested. Growing off the ground is something I’ve been doing for years, as my many hanging baskets demonstrate. But my new favorite way to grow in a small space is growing off the ground… on wheels.

Enter my latest small-space obsession: the RÅSKOG utility trolley, currently just $39.99 from IKEA. This sturdy three-tier metal cart is geared towards organizing kitchen pantries and craft supplies, but honestly? It’s also the ultimate secret weapon for container gardeners. By stacking a trio of generous growing tiers vertically on smooth-rolling casters, what you get is a multi-deck planter that takes up less than two square feet of floor space, while tripling your growing capacity.

It’s effectively a miniature rolling raised bed in triplicate, allowing you to chase every last ray of sunlight through the day, or relocate a growing unit on a whim to try out new corners. Whether you want to roll your homegrown salad greens to your al fresco dining area or tuck tender herbs out of a sudden downpour, this simple utility cart can transform how you use a limited plot. Here’s why this trolley deserves a prime spot in every container gardening setup, and how to make it work for you.

First impressions of RÅSKOG

The RÅSKOG brings that delightful fusion of industrial utility and effortless style. It’s available in a few shades, but I love the rich red-brown option which complements earth tones while also adding a lush sheen. So it instantly adds a pop of character to a humdrum patio wall or quiet balcony corner. But beyond its cheerful good looks, it’s the way it allows me to grow upwards – and change my mind without having to start totally from scratch (because heck, sometimes a change is needed).

Cart dimensions for the RÅSKOG are unassuming, but stuffed with possibilities. Measuring 13.8 x 17.7 x 30.7 inches (35 x 45 x 77 cm), it instantly creates a trio of prospects for container gardeners. And the space between the tiers is also quite enticing: there’s about 8 inches (20 cm) of clearance between the levels. Ok, it’s not a massive amount – but it definitely invites some very real options off the ground.

(Image credit: IKEA)

That headroom gives you real planting possibilities. Think bushy Genovese basil stretching toward the light, erect rosemary stems, or tumbling cherry toms weeping over the edges without being squished. Depth matters just as much. Just shy of 3.5 inches (10 cm), these deep, rimmed metal trays can keep a plant’s root balls secure and prevent pots from tipping over as you roll your mini raised planters on wheels.

Constructed from heavy-duty, powder-coated steel, the frame supports up to 39 pounds total (around 13 pounds per shelf). That means you can load it up with potting mix, terracotta saucers, trailing alpine strawberries, and watering cans without a wobble. Best of all, their castors glide effortlessly across decking, stone pavers, or indoor floorboards, making your entire mini garden wonderfully mobile. Plus, they are lockable, so once you want your unit to be secure, the wheels lock home.

Growing Plants in your Trolley

(Image credit: Martiapunts / Getty Images)

The real joy happens when you stop thinking of the RÅSKOG as a utility cart and treat it as a multi-level plant unit you can move about. Yes, you can pop individual pots onto each shelf, which is great in itself. But you can also direct-plant into the trays. Pick the right plants and it’s easy to make a lush, cascading fountain effect. To keep compost from spilling through the mesh bottoms, you just line each tray with some jute burlap or some flexible coco coir liner roll cut to size.

For a real bargain, the Sunyay Coconut Coir Liners from Amazon can easily be snipped into shape. To protect indoor floorboards or balcony tiles from drips, you can optionally slide a shallow plastic tray under the bottom tier. Designing each tier by light exposure and weight can help you bring out your trolley's true plant potential:

• Top Tier (Full Sun): Reserve the top deck for heat lovers that crave unrestricted overhead light. You can plant a vibrant tapestry of purple opal basil, fiery dwarf chili peppers, and sweet-scented golden thyme. Add a splash of trailing nasturtium for jewel-toned edible blossoms spilling artfully over the handrail.
• Middle Tier (Dappled Shade): Sheltered slightly by the top tray, this middle zone is ideal for lush, soft-stemmed herbs and leafy greens that might scorch in harsh sun. Think feathery bronze fennel, ruffled flat-leaf parsley, spicy arugula, and velvety chocolate mint. You can also use the ambient light for trailing bacopa or ivy.
• Bottom Tier (Anchor & Texture): Use the heavy bottom shelf to ground the cart. It is perfect for weightier terracotta pots holding woody sage, trailing thyme, or a thick carpet of wild strawberries with dainty blooms and bright fruits dangling gracefully over the rim (just make sure whatever you place here won’t catch the wheels).

(Image credit: IKEA/Future/AI)3 Ways to Use Your Trolley

Honestly, I wouldn’t want to be too prescriptive about what you can use this IKEA trolley for, because it’s so versatile. It offers quite a bit of scope depending on your potential ground space, navigable corners, and your daily routine. But it really does offer a bit of everything, from tiny-tiered plant installations to weekend hosting. It’s just a genuine small-space enhancement, because it can fit in so many places. Here are just three ways, but honestly, this is just the beginning…

1. Rolling Bar Garden

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Roll on happy hour! Imagine hosting summer drinks on the patio, rolling your fresh ingredients directly to the table. On the top tier, plant some lime-scented mojito mint, sweet pineapple sage, crimson-veined sorrel, and delicate edible pansies for floating garnishes. Then keep your cocktail shaker, fruit squeezer, and chopping board on the middle shelf, alongside a pair of scissors or shears, like compact Fiskars Garden Herb Pruning Shears from Walmart, for snipping your leaves straight into the glass rims. The bottom shelf easily holds your ice, tonic bottles, and spirits.

2. Propagation Station

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

Urban balconies and shadowed yards often suffer from shifting sun patterns. By dedicating your trolley to plant propagation, you can easily track every hour of direct sunlight by wheeling your green babies from window to window or across a patio. Fill the upper tray with clear glass bud vases holding soft cuttings of variegated coleus and trailing pothos. Maybe add some terracotta seed flats of baby spinach. You can also attach a clip-on grow light strip, like the Aoksun Grow Light Full Spectrum Light Strip from Walmart, giving lower-tier sprouts a gentle supporting boost.

3. Mobile Potting Caddy

(Image credit: Artisteer / Getty Images)

For city dwellers lacking a shed or garage, storing soil bags and hand tools can quickly clutter a small space. Turning the trolley into an all-in-one mobile potting station keeps your supplies contained and portable. Pack the bottom tray with a small sack of organic potting compost, a compact watering can, and spare clay pots. Use the middle level for small hand trowels and dibbers, spools of jute, and copper labels. Up top, display some cheery velvety succulents, fuzzy panda plants and star-shaped sedums to soak up the sun while you tend to your potting.

Other Double Duty Beauties

If the RÅSKOG isn't quite the right fit for your balcony or color story, several versatile rolling carts offer similar multi-tier magic. From serene sage greens to sleek modern profiles, they extend the options for helping you to get your mobile garden rolling.

Budget-Friendly Basic

Mainstays Mainstays 3-Tier Metal Frame Laundry Cart

Giving maximum function for a bargain price, this lightweight cart is perfect for urban renters testing out their vertical gardening dreams. Available in crisp white and earthy neutral tones, its mesh shelves provide plenty of airflow for potted succulents, microgreens, and propagation trays.

Sage & Botanical

TOOLF Toolf 3 Tier Rolling Utility Cart With Pegboard

Featuring a soft green powder coating, this sturdy steel cart is a near-match for the full-sized RÅSKOG. Its deep mesh trays provide excellent drainage and airflow for live potted crops, while side pegboard panels allow you to hang mini trowels, twine, and snips. Ideal for a soothing, patio aesthetic.

Sleek & Modern

Ebern Designs/Wayfair Ebern Designs 3 Tier Rolling Utility Cart With Drawer

For gardeners who love contemporary vibes, this modern cart features slightly taller side rails and a refined matte finish, including a lovely olive shade. Its high-capacity steel frame holds up to heavy clay pots and wet soil mix, making it a stylish bridge between outdoor prep and indoor styling.

Help Your Garden Trolley Last

(Image credit: IKEA/Future/AI)

To make the most from your rolling mini-garden season after season, it’s worth adding a little note about weather-proofing! The official product specs from IKEA rate the RÅSKOG primarily for indoor use. While its factory powder-coated steel handles minor splashes and day-to-day humidity like a champ, it probably can’t be left sitting in pooled rainwater. Being left exposed to the elements on an unsheltered balcony for months on end will take its toll on the exposed heads, frame joints and castors.

There is a workaround. Before you add your plants, give the entire frame a light, protective coat of Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Spray Paint from Amazon. This sealant locks out dampness, seals metal seams, and adds another level of protection against muddy garden splashes. This quick lick of glossy goodness can turn the cart into a rugged outdoor performer, allowing you to keep letting the good times roll.

Keep an eye on wind stability on exposed balconies. Make sure your heaviest terracotta pots, stone saucers, or filled watering cans stay on the bottom tier. Keep the center of gravity as low as you can, and use it with care. And remember, when the harsh weather kicks in, you can always wheel your super-trolley indoors…

Shop IKEA Vertical Ideas

While the versatile RÅSKOG trolley takes top prize for mobile flexibility, IKEA’s shelving lineup is packed with budget-friendly gems to build out your small-space sanctuary. Whether you want to add vertical height or develop a cozy wooden backdrop, this container-friendly trio can help complete your small space setup.

Save

IKEA Hyllis Shelf Unit (Indoor/Outdoor)

This is the ultimate budget plant stand. Made from durable galvanized steel, this simple shelving unit thrives indoors or out without rusting. It is perfect for lining against a balcony wall to hold heavier terracotta pots, seed flats, or extra bags of potting soil alongside your rolling cart.

Spend

IKEA Satsumas Bamboo Plant Stand

This unit pairs a smooth top tray with a warm frame and a slatted lower shelf. It’s great for a balcony wall or sunny window sill. The top tray can hold multiple potted favorites, while the bottom shelf offers airy storage for larger pots, small watering cans, or tools.

Splurge

IKEA Askholmen Flower Box With Trellis

You can transform a plain balcony railing or concrete patio wall into a lush vertical garden with this dark stained acacia wood planter box. The integrated trellis provides built-in support for climbing jasmine, sweet peas, or pole beans, for a gorgeous privacy screen.

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Is there such a thing as a delphinium dupe? I didn't think so either. After all, very little can rival those towering flower spikes and old-fashioned cottage garden charm that make them such enduring favorites, so it seemed all but impossible to find a perennial quietly replacing delphiniums.

The problem, though, is that delphiniums aren't always built for the summers many of us are gardening through now. Between scorching temperatures, prolonged dry spells, and increasingly unpredictable weather, they can quickly become thirsty, high-maintenance plants that struggle to look their best without plenty of care.

That's exactly why I started looking for an alternative that could deliver the same vertical drama without demanding constant watering. I expected to land on one of the usual suspects, but instead I found a native perennial that seems surprisingly underappreciated despite having all the ingredients of a future garden classic.

Meet The Perennial Quietly Replacing Delphiniums

I'm talking about wild lupine (Lupinus perennis). With its elegant purple flower spikes, impressive drought tolerance once established, it boasts an irresistible appeal to bees and butterflies, thus making it easier than ever to spot your birth month butterfly in your yard!

Basically, it captures much of what I love about delphiniums while being far better suited to the hotter and drier growing conditions becoming increasingly common across many parts of the US. The more I learn about it, the more convinced I am that this beautiful native perennial deserves a place in far more borders.

Shop Wild Lupines:

Outsidepride Wild Blue Perennial Lupine Seeds

GINGERGLOW 2 Wild Lupine Live Plant

Seed Needs Wild Perennial Lupine Seeds

Native to eastern and central North America, wild lupine is a long-lived herbaceous perennial prized for its tall spires of flowers that bloom in shades of violet-blue, purple, and (very occasionally) white. While it has a softer look than the densely packed flower spikes of a delphinium, the effect is remarkably similar, bringing height, movement, and cottage garden character to borders.

It's hardy throughout USDA Zones 3 to 8, where it thrives in full sun and well-drained soils, particularly sandy or gravelly sites where many traditional border perennials struggle. And, unlike delphiniums (which crave consistently moist and very fertile soil), wild lupine is perfectly happy in lean ground. In fact, it actually hates waterlogged conditions!

But wait, there's more! As a member of the pea family, it also fixes nitrogen in the soil, which means it can also help to improve the ground around it while asking for basically nothing in return. What a hero plant, right?

(Image credit: WePro/Getty Images)

Oh sure, there's no denying that delphiniums are beautiful, but they are also pretty demanding; hot weather, humidity, drought, strong winds, slugs, and powdery mildew are all enemies of this pretty short-lived perennial.

If you're the kind of gardener who doesn't have time to waste on endless staking, watering, and replacing plants, then, wild lupine offers a refreshingly low maintenance alternative once its established (its sturdy stems don't even need staking!). And, while it won't flower for months on end like delphiniums, you'd best believe the elegant vertical spikes provide just as much of an impact. In fact, its nectar-rich blooms are a beacon for pollinators (especially the endangered Karner blue butterfly, for which it is a host plant).

A must, then, for anyone interested in gardening for wildlife!

Shop Ready-To-Plant Lupines:

FLOWERSBULBS Purple Wild Lupine Live Plant

EKT Nursery Russell Lupine Plant Live

FLOWERSBULBS Purple Wild Lupine Live Plant

As gardeners rethink their planting choices in response to a changing climate, I can easily see wild lupine quietly replacing delphiniums as one of the defining perennials of modern cottage gardens.

After all, it delivers the upright flower spikes that make delphiniums so beloved, yet it's far better equipped to handle dry and nutrient-poor soils once established. Throw in the pollinator-friendly vibes, its native heritage, and its ability to thrive without constant attention? Yeah, it's easy to understand why more gardeners are beginning to appreciate its potential.

Delphiniums will always have their place, but if you're searching for a perennial that offers similar beauty while asking much less of you (and no judgment; I'm right there with you!), wild lupine may just be one of the smartest additions you can make to your borders. Time to get planting, I say...

Deadheading spent flowers is a typical and ongoing garden chore. It tidies up plants and promotes continuous blooms. On the other hand, those spent blooms can be very handy for migrating birds beginning in late summer and continuing into fall.

Faded flowers aren’t done providing value to your garden. In addition to helping birds, the stalks and seedpods add visual interest to the garden. For some species, the seeds might even drop and help plants spread or become naturalized. Resist the urge to tidy every bed this time of year. Instead, let it go at least a little bit natural and wildlife-friendly.

Many of your flowering plants produce berries or seeds that provide a vital food source for native birds. Leaving flower stalks in place can also provide much-needed shelter and resting spots for migrating species. So, if you want to support your bird friends, don’t deadhead these plants that help them during fall migration.

1. Coneflowers

(Image credit: Danita Delimont / Shutterstock)

Echinacea, or coneflower, is a popular native perennial wildflower that grows well in sunny beds and blooms throughout summer. The daisy-like flowers come in a variety of colors and have a characteristic cone-shaped center.

Once the petals fall, these cones remain and are packed with nutritious seeds that birds love. Many seed-eating birds, like finches and chickadees, will stop to pick at the cones. The stems are sturdy and will remain upright with cones intact even in winter, so leave at least some in place both to feed native species and for visual interest.

You can explore tons of gorgeous coneflower cultivars from Wayside Gardens that support migrating birds and look gorgeous in any landscape.

2. Black-Eyed Susans

(Image credit: Vicki-Jauron, Babylon and Beyond Photography / Getty Images)

Rudbeckia, commonly called black-eyed Susan, is a similar daisy-like native wildflower known for its cheerful yellow color and dark centers that develop plenty of seeds in fall. While the flowers feed pollinators in summer, in fall the dense seed cones feed birds.

As with coneflowers, you can leave the stems intact through fall and even into winter. Trim them down to the ground if they begin to flop or rot. If you want a tidier appearance in your beds, deadhead and cut back some of the stems early and leave a few in place for birds.

If you want to support goldfinches and other birds that adore rudbeckia, but don't love the yellow blooms, try this stunning red cultivar called 'Cherry Brandy' from Wayside Gardens.

3. Sunflowers

(Image credit: Volodymyr Kucherenko / Getty Images)

Both native and cultivated sunflowers (Helianthus spp.) are excellent and abundant food sources for birds in fall. Grosbeaks, nuthatches, jays, cardinals, and other birds are drawn to the big seedheads that sunflowers develop in fall.

If you grow sunflowers for cut flowers, consider growing a few extra plants that will feed the birds. Sunflower seeds are among the richest sources of nutrients for migrating birds in fall. The large seeds are high in calories and healthy fats that help power their long journeys.

You can supplement birds' natural food sources with high-energy suet blocks, like these ones from Chewy, to ensure they have enough fuel to power them on their long journey south.

4. Joe Pye Weed

(Image credit: Gail Shotlander / Getty Images)

Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium spp.) is a very tall native perennial, growing up to 7 feet (2 m) high. It blooms in midsummer and early fall with flat-topped clusters of small pink flowers. These flowers turn into fluffy seed structures later in fall and readily remain on top of the tall, sturdy stems without flopping.

Leave at least some of these in place as the small seeds will attract late-migrating birds. The tall stems also offer perches and shelter for these birds to rest hidden from predators. In addition to eating the seeds, some birds use the fluffy “hair” for nesting.

This beautiful native plant can be hard to find at the garden center, but you can buy Joe Pye weed online from Nature Hills Nursery.

5. Asters

(Image credit: Andrii Salomatin/Alamy)

Native asters (Symphyotrichum spp.) are popular perennials for their abundance of delicate, daisy-like flowers that bloom in late summer and through most of fall in some regions. They come in a variety of colors, from purple and pink to white and blue.

The small seeds that asters produce after the flowers are spent provide a great food source for many small migrating birds, so leave some of them in place. As a late-blooming flower, asters are particularly important for providing food later in the season when other resources are scarce. Also, the dense growth of the plants offers good shelter for small birds.

You can get a 4-pack of pretty purple asters from Vigoro at the Home Depot for under $20.

6. Viburnum

(Image credit: Picmin / Shutterstock)

Viburnum is a large group of shrubs often prized in landscaping for their spring flowers, late summer and fall berries, and attractive fall color. Several popular viburnum varieties are native and develop berries that are popular among birds.

Resist the urge to tidy up your viburnum hedges too much at this time of year. Cedar waxwings, grosbeaks, bluebirds, and other native species will thank you for leaving both the berries and some of the dense growth in place. They benefit from the food source and the shelter.

This viburnum called 'Spice Girl' from Proven Winners at FastGrowingTrees.com has the added benefit of vibrant fall foliage as well, so it's wonderful for both birds and gardeners in fall.

Not deadheading some of your plants is great for your local ecosystem, and especially for native birds, but it can also look messy. You can trim back plants and deadhead some of the flowers to keep beds looking tidy while still supporting birds. If any foliage or seedheads look diseased or are rotting, remove them to prevent the problem spreading to other plants.