Organic Gardening News

Most jade plants leave the store looking like small shrubs, and plenty stay that way for years. The trunk stays thin. Branches stretch toward the window and away from the room, and eventually the whole plant leans instead of standing. Summer is when that pattern either breaks or sets.

July lands in the middle of active growth for Crassula ovata, which is why so much of good jade plant care concentrates in this window. Cuts seal within days at this time of year. New shoots follow a pinch quickly, and the plant has energy to spare for thickening, not just reaching.

5 Jade Plant Tasks Worth Doing in July

None of this is difficult or time-consuming, and it doesn’t need a strict schedule. What matters is timing – the plant is growing hard right now, so it responds quickly in a way it won’t come October.

1. Water Deeply, Then Leave It Alone

(Image credit: Tatiana Foxy / Getty Images)

Heat pushes most houseplants into daily thirst. Jade works the other way – the leaves are the water tank, and roots left sitting damp are what actually kills these plants. Soak the mix until water runs from the drainage hole, then wait until it's bone dry to the base before going again. Clay helps here. A terra cotta pot like this one from Amazon breathes and pulls moisture out through its walls, which speeds up that drying considerably. Plus it looks exactly like a paper bag, which is fun.

Skip the calendar and read the leaves. Ones that have gone slightly soft, or picked up a faint pucker along the surface, are asking for water. Firm and plump means wait. Yellowing leaves that drop at a touch point the opposite way, toward overwatering. In a hot July the gap between soakings might still stretch to a couple of weeks, and a jade left dry is in far less danger than one kept wet.

2. Move It Outdoors, Slowly

(Image credit: Olena Polkovnykova / Getty Images)

Real sunlight does things a windowsill never manages. Stems thicken, internodes shorten so growth stays compact instead of stretchy, and the leaf margins often blush red – a stress response that happens to look striking. Moving it outside is the single biggest thing you can do for jade in summer.

Rushing it burns the plant, though. A jade fresh off a winter windowsill scorches in direct sun almost immediately, and those bleached patches never green up. So the move happens in stages. Start it in full shade, give it morning sun only after a week, then find it a spot that gets sun for the better part of the day. Rain is the other thing to watch, because a plant left outside through a wet stretch takes on water faster than the mix sheds it. Bring it back indoors once nights start dropping toward 50F (10C).

3. Feed Lightly While Growth Is Happening

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Fertilizer earns its place only while a plant is actively growing. July qualifies. A jade wants a fraction of what any leafy houseplant takes, so Miracle-Gro succulent plant food from Amazon goes on at half the label strength, once for the month. Water first, though – fertilizer landing on parched roots burns them.

4. Pinch and Prune for Branching

(Image credit: JulieK2 / Shutterstock)

Here's the mechanism behind every sculptural jade worth looking at. A stem that keeps its growing tip keeps extending in one direction. Remove that tip and the plant tends to push two new shoots from the leaf pair just below the cut. One branch turns into two. Repeat it the following summer, and the one after – the dense, tree-like frame on an old jade is a few seasons of exactly this, nothing more clever.

Pinch soft new tips between finger and thumb, or cut woody stems just above a leaf pair with clean snips. Take no more than a third of the plant at once, and keep an eye on where the weight should end up – branches multiply from wherever the cut lands. Keep the jade cuttings too. Leave them somewhere dry and shaded until the cut ends callus over, then set them in a dry mix and hold off watering for a week.

5. Inspect the Joints and Check the Roots

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White cottony specks tucked down in the leaf joints are mealybugs (Planococcus citri). Jade sits high on their host list. A cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol handles what's visible. Look again a week on, though, because the eggs come off in waves and one pass never gets them all. Heat speeds up that cycle. Something small in July has turned into something else by the end of August. Root mealybugs are nastier, hiding below the soil line where a mix like this bag of Hoffman organic cactus and succulent soil mix from Amazon and a fresh pot become the only real fix.

Tip the plant out of its container while the mix is dry and look at what's down there. Roots circling the inside wall call for repotting, and so does a mix broken down into something dense and soil-like. When repotting jade go up one pot size only, and use gritty succulent mix. Ordinary compost holds far too much water around a jade, for far too long. Handled well, July does most of the heavy lifting for you. Give a jade plant the right signals now, and the fuller, more sculptural shape people chase for years starts to build on its own.

Jade Care Essentials

6 Inch Terra Cotta Pot

Organic Cactus and Succulent Mix

Indoor Cactus & Succulent Food

AmericanHort’s Cultivate Expo in Columbus, Ohio, is North America’s premier horticultural show each year with some of the world’s best plant breeders showcasing their latest developments. Also on display is the best new technology and robotics that are improving greenhouse growing efficiencies. Their seminars and educational forums cover a wide range of relevant topics from marketing, integrated pest management for insect and disease control, and innovative opportunities within the industry. Even Martha Stewart was there gathering ideas.

This year’s Cultivate was one of the best shows I’ve been to over the past 30 years, and I would love to share with you some of the best new plants.

Chris Hansen is a brilliant American plant breeder and someone I’ve known for years. His focus is on sedums and sempervivums. He has been the recipient of several international awards, including for his Golden Nugget yellow Chick Charms sedum series. His new variety of ajuga called Feathered Friends is now turning heads, and his vibrantly coloured sedum SunSparkler series have all been acclaimed additions to the gardening world.

My go-to sedum, however, is his evergreen Angelina series. Hansen developed Angelina’s Tea Cup and Angelina Prima, more compact and non-flowering varieties, which are much improved over his original Angelina.

Hansen took me by the arm and excitedly showed me his latest innovation. Well, in the world of sedums, he knocked this one out of the park.

Branded Tight & Tidy, he has developed five new varieties of evergreen sedums, prairie hardy to Zone 3, adding brilliance to gardens and containers the whole year round. Mildew resistant and growing only about three inches tall by fifteen inches wide they do, truly, remain Tight & Tidy all year long. Ranging from blue, pink, red, green and yellow, these go beyond the traditional sedums in adding a new dimension to the sedum world.

They will be available in late spring next year and I’m sure the demand for these exciting new plants will be significant. Congratulations, Chris.

For me, the second most innovative breeding breakthrough had to be the breathtaking feathered heucheras, branded Fyre Wings. These truly unique heucheras are hardy to Zone 5, have sun and shade tolerance and come in a wide range of seven colours. They catch your attention immediately with their striking fluffy foliage and will be outstanding in both beds and containers.

Terra Nova Nurseries in Oregon bred these innovative new heucheras, adding to their long list of internationally acclaimed introductions. They have been at the forefront of heuchera development for many years, but this is one of their most remarkable varieties.

Third on my list of great plant discoveries is a rose that changed my perspective on the best-selling series in North America.

The Knock Out series of roses continues to impress. Originally their claim to fame was their bulletproof ability to stand up to any type of wet, miserable spring weather by staying cleaner in foliage and stronger in bloom. They are also one of the hardiest winter varieties, down to Zone 5, needing little, if any, winter protection in our area.

With continued new breeding, Knock Out has evolved into some double red and pink varieties, but the star of the show was the new Triple Knock Out. This is a game changer with larger, fully double flowers and a delicate perfume. I did, in fact, stop and smell the roses at the show, and even in an enormous building, under less than optimum conditions, they had a lovely fragrance.

There were many additional take-aways from the show, from thoughtful plant compositions to interesting trends.

We do nice combinations of flowers in many varieties, but we seem to plant lavenders in single colours. One creative company showcased both the more tender Spanish types and the hardier English types with blended colours and textures in one container. It was a refreshing look and very attractive.

Today, there are many shades of blues and purples available, and blended with pink and white, I thought they looked stunning. It was great to see this idea, and for both your containers and garden beds, I’m sure you’ll love lavender displayed in this new way.

Mandevillas are still making great strides at becoming the go-to hot summer flower with so many new varieties, colours and plant forms. From strong, upright varieties, to a climbing series, and trailing varieties for hanging baskets, they have never been more versatile. The colour range as well, from the traditional white, red and pink, to yellow, salmon and bicolours, will spice up our summer gardens, planters and hanging baskets. Remember these are plants that thrive in summer heat.

Lilies seem to be making a comeback in today’s gardens, mostly as a lift to perennial borders. They make wonderful, reasonably long-lasting candidates for cut flower gardens, too. I would leave them the first growing season, as they will usually have just one stem. After a year or two, however, they will produce multiple stems creating many opportunities for cut bouquets. The colour choices today are simply amazing: from blacks and bicolours, they now come in so many unique shades.

The Oriental lilies not only have a great colour selection, but they also share a beautiful perfume. I was speaking with several of the breeders who mentioned that double Orientals are becoming very popular and, again, are available in a wide range of colours.

Many of the lilies are pollenless, meaning no anthers to stain your nose or your clothes. A single bulb, planted in fall or spring, will provide beauty and fragrance for many years making them, perhaps, the best value in a perennial.

These are my top take-aways from Cultivate ’26. It was a wonderful show, filled with amazing people, incredible innovation, and captivating plants.

Related

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There are few pleasures in life as enjoyable as waking up to birds chirping in the summer. But most people assume they can’t have that if they live in an apartment or a home with a smaller balcony. Not so! A clip-on railing bird bath doesn’t take up any floor space, doesn’t require using a hammer or a screwdriver to install, and you can turn even the tiniest perch into a real wildlife stop.

Balcony railing bird baths have come a long way. They now combine a clamp system that grips a standard railing without falling off, a bowl that is deep enough for birds to actually bathe in, and materials that are weatherproof. Some of these even double as a bird feeder so you can attract birds that are always looking for food.

Below I'll share exactly what to look for in a clip-on bird bath and a handful of my favorite options that are actually worth buying.

What Makes a Good Railing Bird Bath?

Before you buy, it's worth knowing what separates a useful balcony bird bath from one that tips over and falls at the first gust of wind. A good clamp should fit railings of up to at least 2–3.5 inches thick and tighten securely with a simple turn screw.

The bowl should be shallow enough for small birds to swim safely (no more than 2 inches deep) and wide enough for a few birds to share at once. Rust-resistant materials (powder-coated metal, galvanized steel, or durable ABS plastic) are essential for anything left outside year-round.

But location matters, too. A railing bath on a balcony naturally sits above ground-level predators, which is one reason why birds seem to love them. For more on getting the most from your setup, our guide on bird bath placement mistakes is worth a read before you get started.

(Image credit: Tammi Mild / Getty Images)Best Clip-On Bird Baths for Balconies

Now that you know what makes a good balcony bird bath, here are four of my favorite options that will suit any outdoor space – no matter how small!

1. Best Budget Pick

Hanizi Bird Bath Deck-Mounted Bowl

If you want to give a railing bird bath a try but don’t want to break the piggy bank, the Hanizi Deck Mounted Bird Bath is a great option. The 12-inch bowl is lightweight and detachable, which means you can clean your bird bath easily. It also has an adjustable steel clamp that fits railings up to 2 inches thick with a simple turn-screw mechanism, so no tools are necessary.

It isn’t heated and has a pretty simple design, but it gets the job done for a low price. Reviewers note that it’s sturdy enough to handle normal wind without tipping over and the bowl is a good size for smaller birds like sparrows, finches, and wrens, who are most likely to visit a balcony.

2. Best 2-in-1 Pick

Teyigarden 2-In-1 Deck-Mounted Bird Bath

This is a smart and practical option for small apartment balconies or HOA-restricted homes. It has a no-drill clamp mount that will attach to any standard railing without leaving damage.

The carbon steel mesh seed tray can be used for all kinds of bird food like seeds, peanuts, suet, and grains and comes with a removable, windproof water bowl that doubles as a bird bath. It rotates 360 degrees, which means it’s ideal for viewing from indoors. Plus, it comes with a cleaning brush to keep the tray and bowl nice and fresh between refills.

3. Best Cast Iron Pick

Aifeorzo Deck Bird Bath and Feeder

If you prefer something that’s a bit prettier and has some character, this cast iron deck bird bath and feeder could be your pick. It has a scroll bracket and dragonfly detailing which looks beautiful on your balcony, but is also functional. It’s heavy-duty due to being made of cast iron and has a multi-layer powder-coated finish, which means it’s rust-resistant.

Its bowl is 11.34 inches in diameter and comes with a separate feeder tray, meaning there is space for several birds at once. It’s heavier than plastic alternatives, which actually works in its favor: once clamped, it stays in place. It’s a great option if you want something decorative yet useful and pairs well with these bird bath plants, if you have room for a pot or two nearby.

4. Best Solar Pick

MinWadil Deck-Mounted Bird Bath

If you want to take it one step further and add a solar-powered bird bath fountain to your balcony (again, you will draw significantly more birds this way), this lovely green option does it without any wiring at all. A solar pump is built into the 12.6-inch bowl and creates a gentle bubbling effect.

It has a heavy-duty metal clamp that adjusts to fit railings up to 3.5 inches thick and holds the bowl securely even when birds are getting crazy bathing and hanging out. The bowl is on the deeper side (3 inches deep), so add a few small stones in the center for smaller birds to move around safely.

Summer heat can make outdoors uncomfortable for both you and your plants – if you don’t select them carefully. Wilting ornamentals are a sad sight to see, but if your privacy shrubs are impacted, your entire landscape can start to feel endangered. That’s why it’s important to install hedging that won’t get dry and brittle under scorching summer heat.

Some shrubs for landscape hedges won’t shrivel and die in hot sunshine. You’ll want to pick heat-resistant, drought-tolerant shrubs that can take summer’s worst. To get you on your way, we’ve put together a list of our top five hedge shrubs that will keep on protecting your privacy during any and all heatwaves this summer.

5 Best Privacy Shrubs that Can Take the Heat

Which shrubs will stay happy and healthy during the hottest sunshine of summer? Pick varieties with dense, heat-tolerant foliage. If the plants thrive in the hot sun, they won’t wilt or shrivel as temperatures rise. The best choices will be drought-resistant evergreen shrubs.

1. Wax Leaf Privet

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Wax leaf privet (Ligustrum japonicum), also called Japanese privet, is a large evergreen shrub native to eastern Asia. Its natural shape is compact, but it can grow to 12 feet (4m) tall and 6 feet (2m) wide while remaining dense and upright. Some describe it as having a “giant meatball” shape, considered a top choice for medium-size screening. Fast Growing Trees has a 'Texanum' wax leaf privet variety that will grow into a lovely hedge.

These shrubs are extremely resilient and thrive in a full sun location. It is not just heat tolerant, but also drought and salt spray tolerant. All in all, it’s a tough privacy plant with dark green foliage and white spring flowers that appear on new growth. It thrives in USDA hardiness zones 7-10.

2. Yardline Viburnum

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You might not expect such a tough plant to be so lovely. Yardline viburnum (Viburnum awabuki) is a heat-tolerant, sunshine-loving upright evergreen shrub. It is a four-season beauty, with shiny, dense, leathery leaves year-round, plus white flower clusters in spring and bright red berries in fall and winter, making them very popular with wild birds.

Yardline is a narrow, low-maintenance shrub, growing to 12 feet (4m) tall but only 2 feet (1m) wide, a great space-saving choice for hot regions in USDA hardiness zones 7-10. It likes well-drained soil and is extremely drought-tolerant once established. The Viburnum awabuki 'Chindo' variety can be found at Fast Growing Trees.

3. Bottlebrush

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If you’d like a flowering evergreen shrub for a heat-tolerant privacy screen, consider bottlebrush (Callistemon spp.). It’s native to Australia, and thrives in USDA zones 8-11. This large shrub is a favorite for its unusual, brush-like flowers in shades of red or pink that appeal to bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

Despite its ornamental value, bottlebrush is highly tolerant of both heat and drought, although it does need irrigation until it is established. It requires a full sun site and sharp drainage. It not only shrugs off the heat and provides flowers even in the hottest weather. Find bottlebrush shrubs from Fast Growing Trees for a unique and low-maintenance addition to your landscaping.

4. Carolina Cherry

(Image credit: Anna Nelidova / Getty Images)

A Carolina cherry (Prunus caroliniana) is also called Carolina laurelcherry, Carolina cherry laurel, and Cherry laurel. It is evergreen, native to the hot lowlands of the Southeastern United States. This ornamental tree is extremely popular with southern homeowners since it needs minimal care and thrives in full sun environments.

The Carolina cherry tree is both drought and heat tolerant. Like almost every other drought-tolerant shrub, a Carolina cherry does require watering until it is established. This smaller evergreen has bright, dark green foliage that looks gorgeous in a landscape. Add to that the creamy white, fragrant flowers that appear in spring, followed by attractive black berries that contrast beautifully with the foliage.

This sun-loving plant is hardy in USDA zones 7a through 10 b, attracting wild birds and pollinators too. Carolina cherry laurel starts can be found at Walmart for a great price.

5. Texas Sage

(Image credit: Bowonpat Sakaew / Getty Images)

Tough Texas sage (Leucophyllum frutescens) asks very little and gives a lot. This evergreen is native to the South and thrives in the warmer zones, USDA hardiness zones 8 through 11. Its leaves are silvery-gray and help the plant reflect light on hot summer days. They also hold onto moisture during droughts.

Texas sage grows to 8 feet (2.5 m) in both directions, thriving in intense sun even in the poorest soil. Then - surprise! The shrub burst into bloom after periods of rain or humidity. Get ready for these phenomenal purple blooms when you purchase Texas sage shrubs from Fast Growing Trees.

Call it midsummer madness, but I’ve been staring out of windows a lot lately, and the backyard has been filled with much-needed stillness and wonder. The other day, I found myself watching a sparrow bouncing from terracotta pot to dappled bird bath to cherry branch, sometimes with bits of a dandelion clock stuck to his beak. His unabashed joy and curiosity filled me with a sense of rightness in the world. So it’s only natural to want more of that, and to feel a little pang of frustration when the bird bath sits there in the stillness, just being… well, still.

If you find yourself watching and waiting, and wondering where the birdies are, it’s all about that stillness. Sometimes it’s tempting to think there’s a bit of pot luck involved in enticing chickadees and warblers out to play, but there actually is a bit of method to the madness, and if you want to attract more birds to your backyard, it’s all about the ripple effect. A flat, glassy disc of water is not only uninviting to birdies, it can be a little intimidating. Yes, really. Your little avian friends might be curious, thirsty and sociable, but many species are also timid. To a cautious bird led entirely by instinct, static water feels invisible at best and risky at worst.

But you can do something now, very quickly, to transform your still waters into a shimmering, sparkly splash zone that no backyard bird can resist for long. This super-simple bottle dripper trick doesn’t need to cost you a dime, it doesn’t require oodles of technique, and it takes literally minutes to set up. Interested? Here’s how to instantly transform that static water into a hoppy, fluttery wonderland. Oh, and as a special bonus, this quick trick can also help keep the mosquitoes away. Win-win!

Why Birds Need Moving Water

Garden birds are obsessed with moving water. And yes, the ripple effect is definitely a thing. As someone who used to care for budgies in my youth, I would find it fascinating how they would stare at a bird bath from a distance, gazing at it with hypnotic interest. If only I could have told my younger self that they might have needed a little more coercion than repeatedly pleading “come on, come on” in a little voice.

The way birds approach a bath is 1 part curiosity and 9 parts hesitation. That glass disc of water is a mystery. It’s hard to judge the depth, impossible to tell if it’s fresh, and it could leave them vulnerable to predators. But add a rhythmic drip, and the energy changes. The ripples and sounds are a compelling combo. Few backyard birds can resist the allure of a bird bath filled with sparkles and splashes.

(Image credit: Kevin McCarthy / Alamy)

That gentle sound of water movement and light play creates a lovely blend of sonic and visual cues for a bird. Literally breaking the tension, it announces fresh water and it gives your finches, sparrows and bluebirds a sense of how deep that water is. Moving water can entice the shyest backyard visitors. Dainty yellow warblers love moving water and will flutter with abandon under falling droplets, while curious chickadees and nuthatches will perform adorable, hoppy zip-and-dips.

And remember what I said about mosquitoes? A rhythmic drip of water breaking the surface tension in a bird bath can also reduce summer mosquitoes. Skeeters need still water to lay their eggs. By keeping the surface constantly rippling, you make it impossible for mosquitoes to set up camp and help keep water clean. You can get some useful commercial skeeter controls, like Summit Mosquito Dunks and Summit Mosquito Bits, both from Amazon. But this dripper trick gives you a very pretty alternative in the form of a cheep (yes, I went there), cheerful splash zone. So how do you make it? Read on…

Prepare the Bath for Your Dripper

(Image credit: Gerald DeBoer / Getty Images)

The best thing about this bottle dripper trick is that you don't need a fancy, expensive setup to make it work. This trick involves suspending one specially prepared bottle of water above your bird bath, either using a tree branch or a shepherd’s crook. So all you need is a basic household plastic bottle and a few spare minutes. Oh, and a bird bath, of course. Bird baths can run to the hundreds, but the only necessity here is that it is sturdy for weight and safe for birds.

Theoretically, you can use a ground-based, deck-mount or floating bird bath with this dripper trick, it’s all possible. If you are thinking of pairing the dripper with a hanging bird bath, just make sure it is strong, wide and relatively shallow. The wide rim of the gorgeous Monarch Abode Copper Hammered Bird Bath Bowl, from Amazon, is perfect for the surface area for the trick and for the splashing sound.

You can also make this trick work if you are able to position your hanging bottle over a deck-mounted (clamp-style) bath. If you have a deck or a balcony, you can use a bath like the Misopily Deck Mount Bird Bath Bowl from Lowe’s, which clamps securely to patio railings. As long as you have a way of dangling the bottle above it, you’re in business. Just keep an eye on weight and balance. Make sure hanging chains or deck brackets are securely anchored before setting up your drip.

(Image credit: Nankirkpatrick / Getty Images)

Personally, I find pedestal or standing bird baths work best for this trick. You can use a resin-based bath, like the vintage-style Best Choice Vintage Fleur de Lis Standing Bird Bath from Amazon or a more heavyweight ceramic style. For a little color with your splashing, the Mumtop Hummingbird Bird Bath from Walmart is pretty. Word to the wise, it will be more alluring to common garden birds than tiny hummers, but it holds its own under a water dripper. Finally, the Sunnydaze Avignon Freestanding Ceramic Bird Bath from Walmart is admittedly pricier, but it will pay for itself in terms of bird traffic and it's sturdy and durable.

If you're using a shallow ground dish, a simple plant stake pushed into the soil right beside the bowl can hold your bottle steady. Whatever bird bath you use, just make sure it is strong and safe. As a bit of housekeeping, bear in mind that small birds prefer a water depth of just 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm). If your basin is deep, add a few smooth river rocks or flat stones to the bottom, so tiny feet have a firm place to land, sip and play.

Make Your Bottle Dripper

(Image credit: Art Phaneuf / Alamy)

Transforming a humble plastic bottle into a birdie splash zone takes only a few minutes. The key is getting your setup sturdy and your drip rate finely tuned. The ideal is a clean 16-to-32-ounce plastic water or soda bottle. Larger 2-liter jugs hold more water, but they can get heavy and sag, while tiny single-serve bottles empty out too quickly in the heat. Next, you need a thin sewing pin or needle. You can grab a pack of Singer Hand Sewing Needles from Walmart. Poke a single tiny hole into the bottom of the bottle. The size of the hole is important, so make sure it is tiny.

Once you’ve made the pinhole, fill the bottle with clean water and tighten the cap. With the cap screwed tight, a vacuum forms in the bottle, causing the drip to slow to a stop. But loosen the cap just a fraction, and air enters. This allows steady droplets to fall. Don’t worry, this is as technical as the trick gets, but it’s pretty cool, eh? Test your bottle over the sink until you find the sweet spot, which is a drip every couple of seconds. This creates an inviting sound without draining your reservoir too quickly or frightening skittish, dainty visitors that might be gathering the courage to hop closer.

(Image credit: Stefano Madrigali / Getty Images)

Securing your bottle safely is crucial. You can wedge it in place, perhaps in the groove of a tree branch. But suspending it above the bath gives you more control over height, tension, and access. You can find shepherd hooks to help with this, such as the Beau Jardin Heavy Duty Shepherd Hook from Amazon. Hang your bottle 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) over the center of your bird bath basin. This height means droplets hit the water surface below with enough force to create glistening ripples and a soft plink that will resonate with your birdie community.

Wrap wire or twine tightly around the neck and base of the bottle to create a harness for the bottle dripper. Double up some jute like Nutscene Greentwist Garden Twine from The Home Depot to hold the bottle securely in place. By the way, if you’re worried about what the birds might think of a giant plastic bottle hovering in mid-air, good call – but it’s fine. They might give it a bit of a side-eye to start with, but once they realize that giant floating bubble is the source of fresh, moving water, they’ll soon be won over. And voila, one splash zone, coming right up!

Other Options for the Ripple Effect

(Image credit: Robert Steinbach / Getty Images)

This bird bath bottle dripper trick is a brilliant, budget-friendly entry point if you’re looking to turn your backyard into a birdie holiday resort. Of course, you might eventually decide you want to upgrade. You can get floating solar fountain inserts which harness the summer sun to create plumes of water. Float-and-go options like the Dartwood Solar Bird Bath Fountain from Lowe’s and the MadeMax Solar Bird Bath Fountain Pump from Amazon turn static basins into dynamic bathing spots for birdies. Just drop in your bath and make sure it receives some good sunlight.

You can also get battery-powered and solar-powered water agitators or “wiggler” devices. These create continuous water ripples across the surface of the bird bath water, such as the Solar Water Wiggler from Walmart. For a gentle artisanal alternative, the butterfly shaped Copper Bird Bath Water Wiggler from Walmart creates gentle movement and the copper can also help maintain water freshness.

Finally, you can try fine mist setups that attach to garden hoses. These cast a cloud of micro-droplets and are popular with hummingbirds. Nozzles are available that attach to standard hoses to create fine water clouds. For water features that can also charm local hummingbirds, try a Mellbree Mister Nozzle Kit from Amazon. But I have to say, our simple plastic bottle dripper measures up brilliantly for the cash-strapped and time-poor looking to entice birdies to play.

Summer Bird Bath & Dripper Care

(Image credit: WilliamSherman / Getty Images)

A vibrant, splash-tastic bird bath is only as good as its cleanliness, no matter what else you might throw at it. In peak summer heat, algae can bloom quickly, making regular checks important. Your dripper requires very little fuss, but just check the bottle cap every few days. If the steady drip slows or stops, there could be a speck of algae or mineral build-up clogging the pinhole. A quick poke with a pin should clear the opening. Also rinse out the bottle whenever you refill it. It’s a good idea to swap in a fresh recycled bottle every 3 weeks in summer.

Refill the bath daily and give it a thorough scrub twice a week. Use a stiff-bristled brush, like the Modanu Ergonomic Brush for Bird Baths from Walmart. Stick to non-toxic enzyme cleaners or a simple mixture of 1 part white vinegar to 9 parts water. Dropping a copper disc into the basin is a great way of slowing down algae growth between cleans and helps to keep water fresh for longer. The gold (or should that be copper?) standard is the team fave Melbree Pure Copper Bird Bath Disc from Amazon. Keeping your bath in dappled or partial light can reduce evaporation and algal blooms, but you need to balance this with any solar-powered fountain pumps or wigglers you bring to the party.

Shop Bird Bath Extras

(Image credit: © Jackie Bale / Getty Images)

Your summer bird sanctuary deserves a few little treats, for you as well as your resident birdlife. This backyard bundle is tailored to a safe, happy avian retreat that you can enjoy from your sunlounger or kitchen window. Whether you are setting up your very first basin or looking to add a little extra magic to your current dripping setup, these birdie upgrades will keep your feathered friends happy, hydrated, and coming back for more.

Bird Bath Trio

Birdie Splendor

MUMTOP Mumtop Outdoor Hummingbird Glass Bird Bath With Metal Stand

This pretty jewel-toned basin is made from durable embossed glass and the textured presentation is kinder on birdie feet. It’s a sweet rock-steady companion if, like me, you’d rather stick with a freestanding bath under your dripper, and it’s a real talking point for friends.

Sparkle Patrol

Mellbree Mellbree Bird Bath Copper Cleaning Disc

One of our favorite recommendations, this simple disc is glorious for keeping bird bath water sparkling clean without harsh chemicals. This shiny disc rests naturally in non-metallic basins, leaching safe copper ions into the water to slow down algal growth and reduce your bath-scrubbing routine with twinkly aplomb.

Solar Splashing

Mademax Mademax Solar Bird Bath Fountain

Once you’ve got your dripper working overtime, call in the reinforcements! If you need a backup, you can keep your feathered visitors amused with this floating fountain. Operating in sunlight, its dancing water sprays are a boon for birds, while preventing mosquito larvae from gatecrashing the party.

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Wicker swivel chairs and striped outdoor pillows, handled ceramic planters and soft pastel patio rugs: Drew Barrymore’s yard collection at Walmart looks just like my daydreams of a perfect garden. Maybe Drew’s missing the wildflower meadows of her 12-acre Westchester County estate she listed for just shy of $5 million in March, but there sure is more than a fragrant whiff of nostalgic whimsy in the styling of her curated Beautiful patio collection.

Not at the expense of practicalities, though. The chair comes with a storage cover to keep those bouclé cushions spotless, the pots have drainage holes, and the rugs are hose- and machine-washable. So while Drew may be used to having an actual garden of dreams, she absolutely seems to know what we normal folk want in our real-life yards. Because this is a winning mix of style and substance, not to mention good ol’ common sense, as testified by customer ratings – the lowest I could find across Drew’s entire patio line was four-and-a-half stars out of five.

But then, we all know Drew can turn her hand to anything from befriending ET to being a daytime talkshow host – and showing us all how to create a decadent bathtub canopy of trailing houseplant stems in her swish urban-jungle bathroom, of course. No wonder, then, that Drew has delivered yet again with this garden collection made for modern life. And did I mention it's at Walmart? And some of it is on sale at Walmart? Let's shop!

Our Picks From Drew’s Garden Line

Launched in Walmart in April of this year, Drew’s curated patio and garden collection combines pretty and practical at a good pricepoint. A number of products are now on sale, making these items more appealing than ever.

Our Pick of Beautiful Pots

Cute handles

Beautiful 6” Soft Teal Handled Ceramic Indoor/Outdoor Planter

Elegant tone

Beautiful 7” Soft Teal Handled Ceramic Indoor/Outdoor Planter

Floral pattern

Beautiful 8” Sage Wildflower Footed Ceramic Indoor/Outdoor Planter

Our Pick of Beautiful Patio Furniture

Robust steel frame

Beautiful Wicker Swivel Chair with Bouclé Cushions

Reversible Top

Beautiful Wicker Outdoor Ottoman and Coffee Table

Summer shades

Beautiful 18”x18” Coral Stripe Decorative Outdoor Pillow

Our Pick of Beautiful Outdoor Dining

Keep drinks fly-free

Beautiful 2 Tritan Swirl Texture Sipper Tumblers with Wooden Lids

Strong & stackable

Beautiful 1.5 Gallon Acrylic Swirl Stackable Dispenser with Wooden Lid

Perfect for chips

Beautiful 14.6” x 6” Bamboo Melamine Serve with Sardine Dip Bowls

Our Pick of Beautiful Outdoor Rugs

natural neutrals

Beautiful 5’ x 7’ Tiles Outdoor Rug

Soft Blues

Beautiful 5’ x 7’ Arches Outdoor Rug

Dreamy greens

Beautiful 7’ x 10’ Tiled Stripes Outdoor Rug

Nice, huh? Combine your purchases with a few quick and clever container ideas – and perhaps a budget but blooming lovely DIY water feature – to turn your deck or patio into an outdoor living space, you too will have yourself a garden of dreams.

Husqvarna and Stihl are titans of the chainsaw world – and we pitted two of their best models against each other to see who cuts the competition down to size.

Swedish-based Husqvarna and German-based Stihl are both reputable brands, so we're off to a good start. Husqvarna produces popular high-quality gardening tools like strimmers and mowers as well as chainsaws. Stihl is also an expert in the gardening field, providing a host of excellent and durable tools to help you get the job done.

These industry leaders are well-known for producing some of the best chainsaws on the market today, but it can be hard to know which is right for you. Let’s dive full throttle into the competitors’ best chainsaws and see whether the the Stihl MS 211 or Husqvarna 440 comes out on top.

STIHL Stihl Ms 211 18 Gas Chainsaw

Type: Gas powered
Bar size: 18in
Weight: 12.3lbs
Emissions: Low emissions
Battery capacity/fuel tank volume: 16.9oz
Engine power: 2.6 kW
Safety: Mechanical safety brake
Settings: Summer and winter starter

Weighing in at just over 12 lbs, this is not a saw for the faint-hearted. But in actual fact it’s a decent weight for such a capable tool, and with an ergonomic design and anti vibration technology, it is designed to be as comfortable to use as possible, despite its size.

With the capability to clear medium sized trees, it has some cool features - including winter and summer settings to ensure it won’t let you down when you’re firing it up in varied conditions. And they stand it in good stead, because user reviews are all really positive.

Pros

• Sturdy and powerful
• Good fuel efficiency
• Can tackle large-diameter wood

Cons

• Can only buy through a dealer

Husqvarna Husqvarna 440 Gas Chainsaw

Type: Gas powered
Bar size: 20/24in bar available
Recommended max cut: 44 inches
Weight: 13.2lbs
Power: Max power 9000 rpm
Horsepower: 3.62
Fuel consumption: 437 g/kWh
Vibration: Front handle at 3.8 m/s² , rear handle at 6.9 m/s²
Noise: 104 dB
Warranty: 2 years

Husqvarna is a brand well-known for its quality - and this model is no exception. It sits at the top end of the models designed for amateur use (both brands produce ‘professional’ models made for those working as arborists or in similar roles). However, it now only seems to be offered with 20 or 24 in blades (and users in the UK may have trouble sourcing it, so we suggest looking for the 455 model instead).

Recommended for tidying up small to medium trees and cutting up firewood, it boasts good fuel efficiency, decent safety features and low emissions - and promises to be a good starter.

Pros

• Powerful
• Comfortable to use
• Easy to start

Cons

• Needs assembly out of the box
• Heavy

Stihl vs Husqvarna chainsaw: Performance

Chainsaws can make felling and pruning trees a much quicker and simpler task. As chainsaw expert and founder of both firepitfanatic.com and firewood-for-life.com Nick Greenway puts it: “You can do a lot of work in a short amount of time using a chainsaw. Whether you're trimming some branches or cutting down full-sized trees, a chainsaw is an amazing tool to have around your home.”

When it comes to your chainsaw, you want something with enough power to get the job done but is not difficult to operate or use safely. In terms of raw power, the Husqvarna 440 just edges out the Stihl MS 211. The 440 has an engine power of 2.4 horsepower and a displacement of 40.99 cc. The Stihl MS 211 is just behind with 2.3 horsepower and a displacement of 35.2 cc.

The lightweight MS 211 can cope with a range of tasks and can cut through wood with ease. It is a great all-rounder to have on hand when you want to fell small-to-medium trees or cross-cut and debranch them. This chainsaw is conveniently sized and easy to start to make getting the job done as simple as possible.

The Husqvarna 440 is incredibly easy to start and operate thanks to its wide variety of features. It is also two pounds heavier than its MS 211 counterpart, coming in at 9.7 pounds total. It is still very easy to lug around from job to job and is well-balanced during use.

In terms of negatives, there are a couple of things to bear in mind with each model. The MS 211 has sluggish tension in the chain and a knob that could be softer. The On button could also be more visible and large for those using gloves. On the other hand, some customers have reported that the Husqvarna 440 can have some idling issues out of the box and may need time to warm up before hitting its best performance.

With all this in mind, it's a close call. However, we think the Stihl MS 211 just edges out the Husqvarna due to its sheer power and ease of use.

Stihl vs Husqvarna chainsaw: Features

Modern chainsaws come with a wide range of features to make them easier and safer to use. So, whose features are better?

The Husqvarna has no shortage of convenient features. The SmartStart Technology ensures that starting your 440 chainsaw takes minimal effort from you. At the same time, the QuickStart with Air Purge removes air from the carburetor and fuel system to add to that easy start feeling. The combined choke and stop control make starting easier and reduce the risk of engine flooding during use.

Once you get going, the Low Vibration Technology places dampeners between the engine and the chassis, reducing fatigue and making the chainsaw more comfortable to hold during use. The Fuel Indicator system ensures that you are never caught out mid-job again. The X-Cut Dedicated felling marks keep your incredibly sharp and durable X-Cut chain precise every time.

When you need to idle your 440 chainsaw, the chain oil pump disengages with the engine to reduce oil consumption and emissions. This is not even counting the maintenance features incorporated into the design.

Stihl’s MS 211 chainsaw, on the other hand, keeps it short and sweet when it comes to features. Made in the USA, the MS 211 has the exclusive ElastoStart handle with starting grip and built-in shock absorber designed to reduce the effort when pulling on your starter cord.

Once you're raring to go, the MS 211 chainsaw has an anti-vibration system to keep you comfortable and minimize fatigue during a job. The Ematic lubrication system and guide bar provide proper lubrication and work to minimize oil consumption by 50 percent. The Master Control Lever is a single-use lever that operates the choke, works the throttle lock, and the on/off switch for convenient handling. Should you need to stop suddenly, the Quickstop chain brake will stop chain rotation if manually activated or by inertia if there is a strong enough kickback.

With all this in mind, we have to give it to the Husqvarna 440 for its wide range of handy features.

Husqvarna vs Stihl chainsaw: Price

(Image credit: Stihl/Husqvarna)

Price is a big factor to consider when considering chainsaws. Nick Greenway agrees, stating that: “When shopping for a new chainsaw, you should consider how much you want to spend. Both gas and electric chainsaws have a wide range of prices. As with any tool, you get what you pay for, and chainsaws are no exception.”

When it comes to the price tag, both the Stihl MS 211 and the Husqvarna 440 are very similar. The Husqvarna is the more expensive one upfront, coming in at $399.99 on both the Husqvarna site and Amazon. Stihl’s MS 211 is a little trickier to pin down as they tend to sell through approved dealers who mark the price individually. At Ace Hardware, the Stihl is currently priced at $339.99.

Getting a chainsaw is not just about the upfront costs - fuel and maintenance costs also play a role in how much a chainsaw will cost you. Husqvarna’s shop has various chainsaw fuels, lubricants, and oils available in a range of sizes and prices for your convenience. Husqvarna even lets you finance your 440 chainsaw over time if that is best for you.

Stihl also has a range of oil and lubricants in various sizes. The price can be tricky to pin down due to Stihl’s insistence on using verified dealers. However, some oils tend to be priced between $2.50 and $17.99 depending on the price. We recommend shopping around for fuel, gear, and lubricants from the verified seller list to find items in your budget.

Overall, we would suggest that Husqvarna is the better choice despite its higher upfront cost due to its convenience and ease of financing your purchase and getting parts. Stihl is still excellent and cheaper upfront but requires some shopping around to make any purchase.

Husqvarna vs Stihl chainsaw: Care and maintenance

Chainsaws need regular maintenance to stay in top shape. While most chainsaws have similarities in their care routines, each model will have little key differences that you need to bear in mind.

To make this easier, both models’ manuals lay out a maintenance schedule and details on what care to perform and when; this makes it a breeze to input into your calendar so that you do not forget. The 440 even goes a step beyond and has included multiple points of easy access and cleaning into its ergonomic design so you can perform these routines with ease.

Husqvarna vs Stihl chainsaw: Verdict

Husqvarna and Stihl are both famous producers of quality chainsaws that will help you get the job done. However, after considering the price, features, and performance of the 440 and MS 211, we think the Husqvarna 440 comes out on top.

This is not to say that you should not think about getting Stihl’s MS 211; there are plenty of jobs that the MS 211 is perfect for. It is just that the Husqvarna is perfect for beginners while the MS 211 is better for felling trees efficiently in domestic situations.

No matter which model you pick, it is vital to do your research and learn how to handle a chainsaw correctly before use. As Nick puts it: “Chainsaws can cause a lot of harm, especially if you're an inexperienced operator.” Make sure to read the instructions thoroughly and register your warranty before cutting to the wooden chase.

Half a watermelon forgotten at the back of the fridge stops being food quickly. The flesh turns grainy while the juice separates out, and the smell announces itself whenever the door opens. Into the trash it goes – several pounds of organic matter bound for landfill for no reason.

The garden has better uses for it, though none work the way people assume. Treating spoiled fruit as homemade plant food is sound enough as an instinct. A melon just isn't fertilizer and won't behave like one. What it offers is raw material, plus a side benefit for wildlife that rarely gets mentioned.

1. Turn Overripe Watermelon Into Natural Plant Food

Start with what a watermelon is made of. Roughly 92 percent is water, leaving a thin margin of sugars and fiber once that evaporates away. Drop a melon into a planting hole expecting a nutrient boost and the plant receives almost none of it – no nitrogen in a form roots can use, no phosphorus ready to take up.

Microbes have to get there first. Bacteria and fungi dismantle the flesh and rind into humus across several weeks, releasing minerals as they go. None of that is a knock against the melon. It's the same process running any compost heap. What comes out improves soil structure and moisture retention, with nutrients in forms roots can take up – exactly what raw melon fails to offer. You can do it yourself with this compost bin from Amazon.

How To Add Watermelon to Your Compost Pile

(Image credit: Kamila OConnell / Getty Images)

Chop it small first. A whole melon sits in a heap as a sealed unit, breaking down from the outside over months. Pieces cut to a few inches (8cm) across give the organisms far more surface to work on. Include the rind – tougher than the flesh and slower to go, but it composts fine.

Too much melon at once is where this goes wrong. Watermelon is a green in composting terms – wet and nitrogen-heavy, and a heap fed too much of it turns sour and airless. Every addition wants dry browns over it. Fallen leaves do the job, shredded cardboard too, at roughly two or three parts brown to one part melon.

Can You Bury Watermelon Straight in the Garden?

(Image credit: Kriangkrai Thitimakorn / Getty Images)

Trench composting skips the heap altogether. Pick an unplanted spot and dig down at least 12 inches (30cm). The chopped melon goes in the bottom. Backfill until a solid 8 inches (20cm) of soil covers it. Worms and soil bacteria handle the rest underground, out of reach of anything with a nose. A Fiskars transplant spade from Walmart reaches that depth quickly enough that there's no reason to cut the job short.

Depth is doing all the work here. Bury the fruit shallowly and it fails outright – raccoons and rats turn up within days, flies not long after. Leave the spot a few weeks before planting into it as well, since material in the thick of decomposition ties up soil nitrogen temporarily and leaves early plantings hungry at the wrong moment.

Save a Slice for Butterflies and Moths

(Image credit: Blu Guevara / Shutterstock)

Flowers aren't the only thing butterflies drink from. Red admirals (Vanessa atalanta) and commas (Polygonia comma) feed at rotting fruit quite happily, and some species seem to prefer it. Concentrated energy is part of the draw. Fermenting sugars also carry minerals and yeasts no blossom offers. Plenty of moths work the same way after dark – fruit-baiting is an old trick among the people who study them.

Late summer is when this counts. Nectar thins out as the flowering season winds down, right as butterflies building reserves for overwintering need it most. A slice of overripe watermelon fills that gap. Replacing anything is beyond it, though. Nectar-rich planting and host plants stay the foundation, and a fruit dish only makes sense in a garden that has both.

How to Make a Simple Watermelon Feeding Station

The setup asks almost nothing. One or two small slices on a shallow dish, somewhere flat and stable, is the whole of it. A terracotta plant saucer from Amazon suits the job because the low sides let butterflies land and reach the fruit without any climbing, and clay stays cooler than plastic under direct sun.

Keep portions modest. Two slices are easy to refresh and easy to rinse, while a plate piled high becomes a problem long before it gets finished. A splash of water stops the fruit drying to leather, and the damp seems to help the fermenting smell travel – which is how insects locate it at all.

Where to Place It, and When to Remove It

(Image credit: LeeYiuTung / Getty Images)

Placement decides whether this stays charming or turns irritating. Fermenting fruit draws wasps and ants as readily as butterflies, so the dish belongs well away from doors and anywhere people sit. A sheltered corner beside a hedge works better anyway, out of the wind, with cover close by for the insects using it.

Swap the fruit out every couple of days rather than letting a dish run on indefinitely. Old melon slumps into slime and grows mold, and by then it stops drawing the visitors you wanted. Rinse the saucer between servings, since residue builds fast in the heat. If wasp numbers climb past comfortable, pull the dish for a stretch. The butterflies find it again once it returns.

Avoid These Overripe Watermelon Mistakes

Scale is the big one. A whole melon parked beside a tomato as a natural feed does nothing measurable for the plant and a great deal for the local rat population. The smell alone makes that corner unpleasant for weeks. Whatever goes into the ground goes in chopped and deep, and the rest belongs in the heap.

Seeds are the surprise waiting at the end. They come through a cool heap intact, so unless the pile properly heats, expect volunteer seedlings wherever that compost lands. Sap beetles (Nitidulidae) and fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster) gather around exposed fruit as well, and neither does real harm outdoors. Split the melon between its two jobs and none of this becomes trouble. A couple of slices go out for the butterflies, and the rest gets chopped into the heap or buried deep, quietly turning into next season's soil while nobody watches.

The cherries look fine one morning. But then, a couple of days later, there's a bare pit still clinging to the stem and half a dozen birds arguing in the branches over what's left. Birds don't nibble at fruit the way insects do. They arrive as a group, take the ripest fruit quickly, and move along to the next tree before you even notice.

Plenty of gardeners assume how to protect fruit trees from birds has to start with netting or a spray. But there’s an overlooked item already in your kitchen that works just as well. It’s just sitting in your kitchen drawer, only costs a couple of dollars to replace, and takes hardly any work to put up.

Find out which common kitchen product doubles as an eco-friendly and organic way to stop birds from eating all the fruit on your trees before you can.

Best Kitchen Product to Prevent Birds

You can use tin foil to deter common garden pests, like unwanted birds. It works as a visual and auditory deterrent that protects fruit trees from hungry winged visitors.

Sight runs the show for most birds. They feed and navigate visually, so a strip of tin foil shining in the sun throws bright, erratic flashes that read as movement where movement shouldn't be. This makes tin foil a good natural way to deter birds in the garden.

Their reaction to the tin foil is more of a reflex rather than reasoning. A bird approaching a branch gets a burst of glare at close range, which prevents it from landing. This makes the tree register as a place where something unpleasant lives and scares away the bird before it can land and eat your fruit.

Sound does its share of the work as well. Foil rattles and crackles at the slightest breeze. That noise combined with the flashing makes the whole display harder to dismiss and scarier to unwanted birds.

A shiny object hanging still doesn't have the same effect and birds figure that out quickly. Wind is the ingredient that turns foil into a deterrent, so a still day with no breeze to move the foil will always be the weak point of this method.

(Image credit: Grace Cary / Getty Images)How to Use Tin Foil to Stop Birds

Strips of tin foil should be about 2 inches (5 cm) wide and 12 to 18 inches (30-45 cm) long to do the job. Fold each one in half lengthwise so both faces are reflective, then twist it once before tying, which keeps it spinning and reflecting light. A roll of Reynolds Wrap heavy duty aluminum foil from Walmart holds up through weather that shreds the standard gauge foil within a week.

Hang the strips of tin foil at the ends of the branches where the fruit actually is, not tucked against the trunk where birds won't see them. Hanging roughly one strip every 2 to 3 feet (60-90 cm) around the outside of the tree canopy is a reasonable starting density. You can add a few more on the side facing open ground since that's the approach most birds use. Tie loosely with twine and leave plenty of slack. A strip that can't move is a strip that isn't working.

(Image credit: Detry26 / Getty Images)Move Foil Every Few Days

Birds are quick studies. Give them a stretch of a few days with foil that flashes and never actually does anything and they'll be landing right next to it and eating your fruit again soon. Habituation is what sinks this method for the gardeners who say it doesn't work. But there's an easy fix to this issue.

Simply move the strips every few days – take some down, add others, shift them to different branches – so the pattern never stays the same. Alternating foil with reflective bird scare ribbon from Amazon can double the effects.

Timing matters, too, for moving around the tin foil. Hang the foil before the fruit ripens and colors up because a bird that has already tasted what's in your tree is far harder to deter than one that never got a sample.

Hanging tin foil a week ahead of first blush is about right. Waiting until the damage shows up means fighting an established habit rather than preventing one and habits are hard to break.

(Image credit: Edwa / Shutterstock)Limitations to This Method

There are a few limitations to this method to know about before trying it. This deterrent works well for certain types of backyard birds, but not for others.

European starlings move in flocks large enough that the birds at the back barely notice what spooked the front. American robins get bold about fruit they've already claimed. For a small tree carrying a crop that matters, Vigoro bird block netting from Home Depot is the only thing that ends the issue outright.

There are two other cautions worth having in mind to keep your trees healthy as well. Never wrap foil tightly around a trunk or a limb, since it traps moisture against the bark and invites problems that outlast the birds. This is a common fruit tree mistake when using this method.

It's also important to gather up every strip of tin foil at the end of the season instead of letting the weather tear them loose because shredded foil ends up in bird nests, your garden, and your lawn mower.

Other Bird Deterrents to Try

Offo Bird Scare Reflective Device

If tin foil just can't cut it, try this highly-rated reflective deterrent device with great Amazon reviews.

MCRWETO Ultrasonic Bird Repellent Device

More than just birds eating your berries and fruit? Try this ultrasonic repellent that works on a wide range of critters.

Besmon Bird Scare Devices

These dangling silver bird scare devices can double as garden ornaments. They look beautiful to humans, but scare away birds.

Every garden has those plants that everyone talks about. The ones that show up in magazine spreads, Instagram posts, and “must-have” lists year after year. And while I understand why some plants become favorites (look, I’m just as guilty of falling for a beautiful allium) I think there are a few underrated perennials that deserve far more attention.

Don’t get me wrong; alliums are incredible. I love their perfectly round flower heads standing above the garden, and honestly, I think they can look even better once the flowers have faded and those dried seed heads are catching the light. They add structure, texture, and that slightly unreal, almost alien look that makes a garden feel like a designer was involved in the planting plans.

But there’s another perennial I’ve come to love even more for the way it performs with so little fuss. It gives me those same dramatic globes of color, brings in pollinators, handles challenging summer weather, and asks for very little in return. In short, it’s one of those plants that makes you wonder why everyone isn’t growing more of it (seriously folks, why?).

The Underrated Perennial I Love The Most

I hate to admit my ignorance, but I first discovered this underrated perennial completely by accident. I picked up a few plants (no flowers, just optimistic stems) on a whim at a neighbor’s charity plant sale. There was no looking at the labels; I was just doing my bit to help their fundraising efforts.

As such, I had no grand plan for these plants; I just liked the look of them and thought they were worth trying. That small impulse purchase turned out to be one of the best decisions I’ve made for my garden.

Also known as African lily, agapanthus is one of those perennials that quietly earns its place year after year. In summer, those tall stems rise above the foliage with clusters of rounded flowers that look like they’re floating above the garden.

(Image credit: Linjerry / Getty Images)

Mine? Mine produce beautiful white and purple globes that hover above the beds, creating exactly the kind of impact I love in a garden. They have height, movement, and a slightly exotic feel (read: that extra-terrestrial vibe I mentioned earlier) but they’re not difficult or demanding. They just... they just get on with the job of looking beautiful.

Honestly, one of my favorite things about agapanthus is how little attention it needs once established. It doesn’t require constant watering, it copes brilliantly with heat, and it keeps looking good through the kind of summer conditions that can leave more delicate plants struggling. I can count on one hand how many times I have tended to mine this year; the thick, strappy foliage has even stayed attractive in a steady run of very hot, very dry weather, and the flowers continue to provide that wonderful burst of summer color.

Need another reason to fall for this underrated perennial? Well, agapanthus is also a brilliant pollinator plant. Bees and butterflies are regular visitors when mine are in bloom, which adds another reason to love them. There’s something especially satisfying about planting something that looks beautiful while also giving wildlife a helping hand.

Shop Agapanthus:

LATROPIC Live Blue Agapanthus Plant

CZ Grain White Agapanthus

Daylily Nursery Yonder Blue Agapanthus

Agapanthus works beautifully in borders, but it’s also fantastic in containers. In fact, growing it in a pot can make it even easier to manage, especially in colder areas where you may want to protect it over winter (mine is in the border, but I am aware I am lucky enough to live in a slightly easier USDA planting zone than most).

So, while I’ll always have a soft spot for alliums, I think agapanthus deserves to share the spotlight. It delivers that same dramatic shape and summer presence but with a level of toughness and reliability that makes it feel almost effortless. And if they can look this good in my frying pan of a garden right now? Then you absolutely need to give them a go, stat!

With over 41,000 fires having burned more than 3.9 million acres across the United States so far this year, many folk are turning to the idea of firescaping their home gardens. Traditionally, we’ve planted thick borders of flowering shrubs and perennials around our houses. Beautiful? Yes. Flammable? Very. And there’s a new approach that is far more fire-resistant, and you still get flowers.

The US Fire Administration (USFA) recommends reducing combustible vegetation near your home to create a defensible space to slow or stop wildfires. It cites Zone 1 – the ground immediately around your home, up to 5 feet away – as the most critical area to reduce risk to the home during a wildfire. Have a think about this part of your yard and, if it's packed with woody shrubs and perennials that could fuel flames, it might be time you considered firescaping this area with the water-filled foliage of sedums instead.

You see – and I was so shocked when I discovered this – up to 90% of ignitions from wildfires are caused by embers, according to USFA. So, siting the water-filled, non-flammable leaves of sedums in the area immediately around your home makes good sense. And what do you know, sedums are one of the most low-maintenance plants on the planet, and they’re pretty as well as practical. Firescaping is a part of landscaping design we're expecting to see boom this summer as there's no telling how long this heatwave weather will last for, and sedums are such a smart and easy solution.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What is Sedum?

Sedums, commonly known as stonecrops, form a huge group of succulent plants with thick leaves and stems that store lots of water. They fall into two types: low-growing, spreading groundcover plants, and taller clumping varieties – and it’s those low growers we’re interested in here.

There are hundreds of sedums to choose from, with clusters of tiny, star-shaped flowers in white, yellow, pink and purple, typically in summer through fall, that pollinators adore. The foliage is just as attractive as the flowers, many with striking colors from lime green and burgundy to deep bronze. Spreading into a resilient mat, the foliage brings fabulous texture, too, and some varieties are evergreen, depending on your zone.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Why is Sedum Fire-Resistant?

Sedums evolved to flourish in semi-arid climates so their ability to store moisture means these plants can go months without rain. That high water content is also very helpful when it comes to resisting ignition and, planted en masse, can help to slow the spread of flames.

Their drought-tolerance plays a crucial part in their ability to resist fire, too, because stonecrops can thrive even through a hot, dry summer. Because sedums are groundcover plants that act as a living mulch, they lock moisture in the soil and keep it cool, too, further increasing their resilience. And that’s an important factor, because even the most fire-resistant plants become highly combustible in a drought-stricken, dried-out state.

Another factor that makes sedum so fire-resistant is that it lacks combustible oils and resins that many evergreen trees and fragranced shrubs contain.

While there’s no one plant that’s considered the most fire-resistant, because of variations in growing conditions across the US, sedum is right up there in most climates. And while there’s no standardized measure of plant flammability, because of its resilience as well as its ability to hold moisture, sedum is widely considered to be one of the most fire-resistant plants in America, and recommended by safety organizations and fire chiefs for fire-conscious landscaping.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Which Sedum is Best?

Low-growing sedums are better for fire resistance than taller sedums which have woodier stems. There are sedums for indoor as well as outdoor growing, as well as annual and perennial types, so do read the label or online description when shopping to ensure you're buying a hardy plant that last year after year in your zone. So the best sedum for you is the one that will naturally thrive year-round in your garden, because a happy plant will be full of moisture.

Also, choose what you love, because then you’re more likely to grow more of it! And all these sedums are super-easy to dig up, divide and replant to create free plants, so you can increase your firescaped area without spending a fortune.

It’s best to buy plants as you need to be super-patient to raise sedums from the dust-small seeds.

Best For Foliage Color

LIME GREEN

4-Pack Lemon Coral Sedum

Proven Winners Sedum ‘Lemon Coral’ is well known for its lime-green foliage that gives a great pop of color. Grows 3-10 inches tall and 14 inches wide in zones 7-11.

Red & Green

3 Red Carpet Starter Plants

Bronze-green Sedum spurium ‘Red Carpet’ foliage gets crimson tones as temperatures drop, forming a mat 3-6 inches high and 18 inches wide. Zones 3-9.

Deep red

3-Pack Dragon's Blood Sedum

Beginning green-to-bronze, Sedum spurium ‘Dragon’s Blood’ leaves deepen into rich red and burgundy tones. Zones 4-9; grows 4-6 inches high and spreads 12-18 inches.

Best For Flowers

Ruby red

Fuldaglut Sedum

While the red-bronze foliage is pretty enough, the ruby-red blooms of Sedum spurium ‘Fuldaglut’ steal the show. Zones 4-9; grows 2-4 inches high and 12-18 inches wide.

Bright yellow

Rock 'n Low Yellow Brick Road Sedum

With bright yellow star-shaped flowers from midsummer to fall, Proven Winners Sedum x ‘Yellow Brick Road’ grows 6-8 inches high and spreads 2 feet in zones 3-9.

Perfect pink

Sedum 'Blue Elf'

‘Blue Elf’ may be tiny, growing just 3 inches tall and spreading to 18 inches, but the ravishing pink flowers against pewter foliage are a big treat. Zones 4-9.

Best For Foliage Texture

Shapely leaves

Sedum Steel the Show

These silvery blue-green leaves turn a rosy pink in fall, when shell-pink flowers join the show. Zones 3-8; grows 8 inches tall and 16 inches wide.

Mixed varieties

Sedum Groundcover Mat

Offering great value for money, this 10-inch x 20-inch mat of different sedum varieties brings a wealth of texture in zones 3-9.

Looks like moss

Angelina Sedum

The golden green foliage of Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’ quickly spreads to form an 8-inch-high mat 2-3 feet wide, that’s evergreen in zones 3-9.

How to Plant Sedum to Maximise Fire Resistance

All sedums need to flourish is well-draining soil and at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. Happily, creating those well-drained conditions marry well with a non-combustible environment. Mix horticultural grit or sand into your soil if the drainage needs improving, and use pea gravel rather than bark as a mulch, and growing sedums couldn't be simpler.

Sedums are so drought-tolerant, you can even create a fully firescaped Zone 1 with paving or gravel punctuated with planting pockets of potting soil. This creates the ultimate low-maintenance, fire-resistant foundation planting. For a modern look, consider adding angular metal edging to contain the spreading sedums in neat geometric shapes.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Another creative idea is to pair sedum with gravel and rocks and pebbles of different sizes to create a dry river.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It’s a smart move to use these succulent plants around highly combustible garden areas, too, such as decking and wooden summerhouses. Sedum can also be used to create living roofs, further helping to slow fire, and forms great groundcover to suppress weeds in any well-drained border.

To maximise fire resistance, clear any dead material – the thatch – from plants every spring. Keep weed free and, while sedum is one of the most drought-tolerant plants you can buy and survives on minimal water, it’s wise to irrigate occasionally through very dry periods in peak fire season to keep those leaves plump with moisture.

You’ll also need to keep your sedum plants watered to begin with, while they grow roots deep enough into the ground to source their own moisture supply.

Some plants are still burning through nutrients in midsummer and will keep asking for more. Others have already turned toward dormancy or next year's buds, and a July feeding pushes them into growth that winter will destroy.

Fertilizing in July is where a lot of gardens quietly go wrong. The impulse is to keep feeding everything, since the plants are big and growing hard and it seems like the season is at full tilt. Many different plants want it. Many others are already shifting gears, moving toward seed set or dormancy or hardening off wood for winter, and pushing nitrogen at them now works against what they're trying to do.

The split comes down to what a plant is doing right now. Choosing plant fertilizer matters less than choosing the right moment for it. Anything still producing flowers or fruit is burning through nutrients and will keep asking for more. Anything winding down, storing reserves, or setting next year's buds needs to be left alone, because late nitrogen produces soft growth that frost will find in October.

6 Plants to Keep Feeding in July

These six are still working, and July feeding keeps them at it. Fertilizer types differ between them more than you would figure, so the formula matters as much as the schedule.

1. Tomatoes

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Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), grown as annuals across USDA zones 3-11, run on a heavy diet right through the season. Once fruit has set, though, the formula should shift away from nitrogen — too much and the plant builds foliage while the fruit sits there unchanged.

A feed with a lower first number and more phosphorus and potassium is the move, every two or three weeks. This Fruit and Bloom Booster from Farmer’s Secret on Amazon will do the trick, and this calcium from Home Depot matters here because a shortage of calcium shows up as blossom end rot.

2. Peppers

(Image credit: DUSAN ZIDAR / Shutterstock)

Whatever works on the tomatoes works here. Peppers (Capsicum annuum) run the same zones, 4-11 as annuals, and they keep throwing flowers and setting fruit until frost puts an end to it.

Feed every few weeks, low nitrogen again. Overdo the nitrogen and what you get is a big handsome dark green bush that produces almost nothing — the sort of thing you figure out in September, too late to fix.

3. Sweet Corn

(Image credit: Liudmila Chernetska / Getty Images)

Here the low-nitrogen rule goes out the window. Corn (Zea mays) eats nitrogen from the day it germinates until the ears fill, grown as an annual anywhere in zones 3-11. Side-dress it with this Gardenera Liquid Power Corn Fertilizer from Walmart once the plants hit knee height, then again as the tassels push out. Watch the bottom leaves for pale color and yellowing that runs up along the midrib, which is the plant telling you it ran short a while back.

4. Roses

(Image credit: Feifei Cui Paoluzzo / Getty Images)

Roses (Rosa spp.), hardy in zones 3-9 depending on the type, bloom in flushes and drain themselves doing it. A balanced feed after each flush keeps the next one coming. Jobe's Organics Granular Rose Fertilizer from Amazon is a good organic option, so it won't scorch roots in July heat. There is one deadline, though. Stop feeding roughly six to eight weeks ahead of your first expected frost. Anything later and the plant answers with tender new canes, right as the weather turns on them.

5. Container Annuals

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Container annuals like petunias (Petunia spp.), perennial only in zones 9-11 and treated as annuals everywhere colder, live on borrowed nutrition. Every watering flushes some out the drainage holes, and by July whatever was mixed into the potting soil in May is long gone. A dilute liquid feed every week or two replaces it. Miracle-Gro's water-soluble all-purpose food from Walmart mixes into a watering can and covers the whole balcony in one pass.

6. Tropical Hibiscus

(Image credit: Geraint Rowland Photography / Getty Images)

Outside zones 9-11 this one lives in a pot, hauled in every fall. Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) will bloom right through the warm months if it's fed, but it's fussy about what. Potassium, yes. Phosphorus it would rather have less of, which means the average bloom-booster formula can set the plant back instead of pushing it.

Something made for hibiscus like this Nelson Plant Food - NutriStar Hibiscus Fertilizer from Amazon, lightly, every couple of weeks, and keep it up until the plant comes indoors.

3 Plants to Stop Fertilizing Now

These three have moved on to something else, and continuing to feed them does real harm. None of it shows up immediately, which is part of why the mistake keeps getting made.

1. Bigleaf Hydrangea

(Image credit: Svetlana Zhukova / Shutterstock)

Next spring's flowers are being decided right now. Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) sets those buds in late summer, on wood that has to firm up first, and it manages this across zones 5-9 without help.

Feed it nitrogen in July and it does the opposite — more soft growth, which is still soft when the cold arrives and dies back on you. Feeding should have wrapped up by early summer. Water and mulch is what it wants now.

2. Peonies

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Peonies (Paeonia lactiflora), zones 3-8, finished flowering weeks ago and are now doing the less apparent part of the job — photosynthesizing to stock their roots for next spring. Fertilizer at this stage encourages floppy foliage and can reduce the following year's bud count. A single feeding after bloom is all they wanted, and that window closed in June. Cutting the foliage back now would compound it, since those leaves are the whole engine. Let your peonies rest and charge up for next year.

3. Garlic

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By July, garlic is already committed. Planted back in fall, hardy through zones 3-9, Allium sativum is either swelling its bulbs or sitting there ready to pull. Give it nitrogen at this point and you tell it to make leaves, exactly when everything ought to be going underground, and the heads that come out of that don't keep well in storage. Feeding ends when the scapes appear. After that, it’s just water, then tapering off before harvest.

Clematis plants are serious climbers. Indeed, they might be the showiest of climbers. This rapid-growing, vigorous vine climbs up trellises, pergolas and fences, up to 30 feet (10m) high, using twisting leaf petioles and twining growth. If your garden includes a climbing clematis, you’ll know that it helps to create an enchanting three-dimensional flowering space. So the last thing you’ll want to do is compromise the vitality of your climbers – which is why you need to check a few things now.

Now, as long as you have planted yours in an appropriate site, clematis care is not all that complicated. These plants prefer to have their head in the sun and feet in the shade, as the saying goes. And for most of spring and early summer, this can happen without too much fuss. But as the summer weather heats up this month, all vines (including clematis) need targeted attention to keep them growing happily.

Taking 20 minutes this week to attend to your Group 2 and Group 3 clematis vines is not just about keeping up appearances. The little things you do now will directly determine how long those velvety petals can hold on during midsummer heat spikes, the intensity of their colors, the size and health of the blooms, and the shape and mass of their growth. Here’s how to ensure that your queen of climbers continues to be the star of your summer show.

How to Help Your Clematis in July

The heat in July can sometimes feel closer to oppressive than delightful. Our favorite plants also feel the heat, and, unlike us, they can’t escape to the cool of the shade. Clematis, in particular, requires a full sun location to thrive, which means it’s stuck in the heat without so much as sunglasses. So it’s counting on you to ride to the rescue by tackling these key tasks in July. First, make sure you know your vine's specific pruning group or class, as this is the key to unlocking its full blooming potential.

Group 1 spring-bloomers like Clematis montana and C. alpina have finished their flowering and are quietly settling into vegetative growth. July belongs to Group 2 clems (early summer flowerers like Nelly Moser) and Group 3 (late summer bloomers like Jackmanii and C. viticella). For Group 2 clematis types, what you do in July can determine whether you see a secondary flush in late summer. For Group 3, this is peak performance season, which relies on regular care and support.

(Image credit: JohnGollop / Getty Images)

The nature and degree of your clematis care in July will depend on your USDA hardiness zone and growing setup. In warmer regions (zones 7-9), moisture retention and root cooling are top priority. In northern zones (zones 4-6), long daylight hours will drive rapid stem elongation that requires structural checks. Container-grown clematis suffer heat stress faster than ground-planted vines. Soil temperatures can spike rapidly, drying out delicate roots within a single afternoon.

Whether you’re growing in the ground or in a container, be sure to give your soil a quick onceover before getting stuck into these clematis steps. Check soil moisture levels with a digital probe, or by dipping your finger two inches into the root zone. A moisture probe like the XLUX Moisture Meter Probe, available from Amazon, can help you avoid piling undue stress onto delicate roots. Once you have a basic read on these levels, get cracking with these simple checks for happy clems in summer.

1. Give Your Clematis Regular Water

(Image credit: Forisana / Getty Images)

Vines dry out faster than rounded shrubs, since they can’t rely on their own shade. Think of a hydrangea shrub: the big leaves cast shade on the interior of the plants, keeping it cooler. A clematis doesn’t have that luxury. Since its roots thrive in moist soil, regular watering is a must. In July, you’ll want to give vines a deep watering. Do this early in the morning, to maximize absorption and reduce evaporation.

Clematis feeder roots reside in the top 12-18 inches (30-46 cm) of soil, making them vulnerable to drying out during heatwaves. For Group 3 varieties, water stress can cause buds to crisp up and drop before opening. To simplify the process of regular watering, you can use a soaker hose or some kind of drip irrigation. The Gilmour Flat Soaker Hose from Amazon can deliver deep moisture without splashing the foliage.

Direct your hose or drip line at least 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) from the main stem base. Soaking the crown directly can invite the risk of clematis wilt. Water deeply at the base 2-3 times a week. Try not to neglect this vital task, or else your clem will likely drop her lower leaves, and prematurely terminate flower production.

2. Protect Clematis Roots with Mulch

(Image credit: larisa Stefanjuk / Shutterstock)

Those clematis roots are the key to keeping your plant thriving. Watering deeply is important, but you can also lock in that moisture with a good mulching. Place a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the vine to protect the roots from extreme heat. Chopped bark or compost works well for this task.

A team favorite for organic root protection is Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon, which protects from heat spikes, and locks in moisture. It also keeps down weeds that might steal nutrients or water from the vine. When mulching Group 2 and Group 3 clematis, leave a 2-inch (5 cm) gap around the main stems. Don't pile mulch up against stems, as this can trap moisture and encourage collar rot.

(Image credit: Albina Yalunina / Getty Images)

As an alternative to mulching, you could add some groundcover plants around the base of your clematis. Shorter perennials can also provide natural shade and keep soil cool. For container-grown clems, consider shallow-rooted companions like hardy geranium (Rozanne) or lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis) to shade soil organically.

Failing to mulch or provide some groundcover during midsummer forces the plant into survival mode when heat strikes, stalling stem growth and causing flowers to shrink drastically. So don’t neglect this vital step: a protected root zone preserves moisture and nutrients and supports healthy growth through to the end of summer.

3. Feed Your Clematis Vine

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You need to get the timing right with feeding. You don’t want to stress the clematis by fertilizing the plant during a heatwave. But clematis plants do need fertilizer every few weeks to keep up their vigorous blooms. So keep an eye on the weather. When a day or two of cooler weather is predicted, apply a phosphorus-rich liquid fertilizer. Follow up by watering well, try to do this every 2-4 weeks.

Avoid high-nitrogen lawn or general fertilizers. High nitrogen fuels leafy green stems at the expense of flower buds and results in soft foliage that attracts aphids. Instead, focus on potassium (potash) and phosphorus blends similar to a tomato or rose feed. For low-maintenance feeding, gently add a little granular feed, like Jobe’s Organics Rose & Flower Granular Fertilizer, available from Walmart, to the topsoil.

(Image credit: Sergey AND Marina / Getty Images)

A little seaweed can also help. Feeding with Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon, gives a gentle potassium boost as well as other essential minerals to drive flower production. Group 2 clematis benefit from a liquid feed immediately after their first main flush ends. This fuels the stem growth needed for their second late-summer show. Group 3 clematis plants need bi-weekly potassium feeds through July to sustain their massive bloom displays.

Always water your plant with plain water an hour before applying liquid fertilizer to prevent root burn. And if you’re experiencing intense heat, hold off on feeding until temperatures drop. Stressed plants can’t process nutrients well.

4. Give Your Clematis a Haircut

(Image credit: John Swithinbank / Alamy)

The heat of summer is never a wonderful time to prune, but consider giving your vine a clip here or there in July. If you have a reblooming clematis (Group 2), deadhead the wilted blossoms. Use clean, sterilized pruners and snip off the old flower heads above the first pair of live leaves or buds. If your clematis has completed its blooming, now is a good time to give the vine a light trim. Take out the dead wood and shape the vine. But avoid anything that feels like heavy pruning.

If you don’t already have a pair of gardening scissors or snips, Fiskars Micro-Tip Non-Stick Pruning Snips from Amazon help you to slice in fiddly spaces without harming plant tissue. For a sturdier grip on older stems, the Corona ComfortGEL Bypass Pruners from Lowe’s are comfortable and great for light shaping.

(Image credit: Ivelina Savova / Getty Images)

Left untouched, spent clematis flowers spend significant energy forming decorative, feathery seed heads. By snipping off faded blooms, you redirect that energy back into shoot development and bud formation. It is key for Group 2 plants such as Nelly Moser, Miss Bateman, or Niobe clems. Do this now, and fresh shoots will emerge in a few weeks, bearing a second wave of blooms by late August or September.

Remember, Group 1 clematis plants set their flower buds for next spring during late summer. So any heavy pruning performed after July will cut off next spring's flower display. When cutting, also remember to wipe blades before and after use, even for light trims. Use isopropyl or rubbing alcohol to avoid the risk of spreading pathogens.

5. Control New Clematis Shoots

(Image credit: Yevhen Maksymov / Getty Images)

Clematis vines are well known for having growth spurts in summer, and all those vigorous new shoots need to be tied in and supported. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a tangled mess of vine. In July, Group 3 clematis can put on several inches of growth in a single day. If left unguided, searching stems will wrap around each other, forming a dense, tangled birds' nest of growth. This reduces light penetration and airflow, increasing the risk of fungal diseases.

Check vines every week in July for loose shoots, and fasten straggly or wayward shoots. Jute twine, like the Nutscene Heritage Green Jute Twine from Amazon, is a gentle way to keep growth in check and won’t bite into the stem. Tie the stems loosely in the direction you want them to grow. Try figure-of-8 loops to allow the stems to grow without restraint. Consistent training creates an evenly distributed canopy, allowing for the best sun exposure and resulting in a wall of flowers from top to bottom.

Shop Clematis Essentials

(Image credit: Jana Milin / Getty Images)

By the time July rolls in, clematis groups 2 and 3 are working in overdrive, either opening their main flush of summer blooms or gearing up for a secondary late-season show. You don't need a shed full of gadgets to keep them thriving – just a few well-selected tools and organic boosters will do the trick and keep your favorite climber growing at its best. A well-placed feed, precise deadheading, and a cool root zone are the secrets to prolonging those velvety blooms well into fall. Here are the simple, high-impact essentials to keep your clems lush and lovely.

Plant Care Trio

Potassium Boost

Neptune's Harvest Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer

Groups 2 and 3 clematis are heavy feeders in summer. While nitrogen feeds encourage green growth, this organic fish and kelp blend provides a gentle, potassium-rich boost for blooms. Dilute it into your watering can every fortnight to extend the bloom cycle on midsummer stars like Jackmanii or Etoile Violette.

Clem Cooling

Back to the Roots Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch

Clematis love their heads in the sun and feet in the shade. High temperatures can bake their shallow roots, causing heat stress and foliage crisping. Spreading a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of dye-free organic wood mulch insulates the root zone, locks in soil moisture, and helps to suppress competing weeds.

Gentle Support

Nancy Nikko Nutscene Heritage Green Jute Garden Twine

July brings rapid growth, but clems often need a bit of guidance to climb smoothly. Coarse plastic ties can snap tender stems, but this biodegradable jute twine offers a soft, supportive grip that blends naturally into the foliage. It gives you a secure and gentle way to train shoots up your trellis or obelisk.

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Used coffee grounds are often recommended as a natural fertilizer for many houseplants. But do orchids like coffee grounds? The answer isn’t a flat no. It depends almost entirely on which orchid is being discussed and how the grounds reach it.

A spent filter full of coffee grounds feels wasteful in the bin, which is probably how this idea got started. There’s real nitrogen in there. There’s organic matter too, along with years of internet advice insisting that acid-loving plants will thank you for the trouble. Orchids occupy an odd position in that conversation.

Two of those assumptions don’t survive much scrutiny, and the stakes are higher when fertilizing orchids than they would be when using coffee on tomato plants. It's important to understand that orchid roots evolved for conditions nothing like garden soil, and the medium in a typical pot serves a purpose that has little to do with nutrition. Get that part wrong, and the nitrogen content stops mattering.

Why Coffee Grounds Might Help Orchids

First up, I cannot overstate this: all types of orchids cannot rely on coffee grounds alone. They still need a specialist orchid fertilizer to provide the balanced nutrients they require. I like to use Better-Gro Orchid Plus 20-14-13, available from Amazon, which is urea-free.

But what if you're looking for a natural top-up? The nutrients in coffee grounds are genuinely there. Used grounds contain around 2 percent nitrogen by weight, with smaller amounts of potassium and magnesium alongside. They also add organic matter and hold moisture. Soil microbes break them down over time into something a plant can eventually take up. For a vegetable bed or home compost pile, that’s a decent contribution from something free.

The acidity claim is where the reasoning goes sideways. Brewing pulls the water-soluble acids out of the beans and into the cup, leaving spent grounds close to neutral, at around pH 6.5 to 6.8. Anyone using them to lower pH is banking on a property the grounds gave up in the machine. Whatever they do for an orchid, acidifying the medium isn’t it.

(Image credit: Kinga Krzeminska / Getty Images)Are Coffee Grounds Suitable for Every Type of Orchid?

The answer hinges on one key distinction. Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis species) are epiphytes, as are Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, and Vandas. In the wild, they cling to tree bark, with their roots hanging in moving air. Those roots are covered in a spongy layer called velamen, which soaks up water in bursts and then needs to dry out. Orchid bark mix in a pot is an attempt to recreate those airy conditions; providing nutrition is not its primary purpose.

Terrestrial orchids play by different rules entirely. Bletilla striata, the hardy ground orchid, grows in ordinary soil outdoors in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lady’s slippers (Cypripedium species) and ladies’ tresses (Spiranthes species) also grow in the ground. Their roots encounter organic matter much as those of other perennials do, making this a very different conversation from the one happening in a bark-filled pot.

Nearly every argument about coffee grounds and orchids comes down to two very different types of plant being discussed as though they were one.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Why You Shouldn't Add Grounds Straight to Orchid Bark

Wet coffee grounds behave like silt. Sprinkled into a pot, they filter down between the chunks and pack into the gaps, turning an open medium into something that stays damp long after it should have dried. A bag of orchid bark, such as this Rosy Soil mix, which contains biochar and mycorrhizae to improve plant health, is coarse for a reason, and filling those spaces defeats the whole design.

What follows is fairly predictable. Fungus gnats (Bradysia species) can breed in the damp organic layer, while white, fuzzy mold may spread across the surface within a couple of weeks. Roots that need air remain wet instead and can begin to rot from the outside in. Caffeine residue is another unknown: it has been shown to inhibit root growth in a number of plant species, and it is not well established where orchids fall on that list.

The Safest Way To Use Coffee Grounds for Orchids

For epiphytic orchids in bark, a heavily diluted and thoroughly strained coffee-ground “tea” avoids the problem of solid particles clogging the mix. It is still an experiment rather than a dependable part of orchid care, however, as its nutrient strength is impossible to judge and traces of caffeine may remain. I don't recommend it, but if you're determined to try it, then only use it very occasionally on already-damp roots, discard it if it smells sour or fermented, and flush the pot with plain water at the next watering. A specialist orchid fertilizer should remain the plant’s main source of nutrition.

For soil-grown orchids, composting the grounds first removes most of the risks. Around six months in a heap or a Costway dual-chamber compost tumbler from Walmart allows microbes to break the grounds down into something crumbly and stable. Much of the caffeine will have degraded, and the nitrogen has already passed through the microbial process that would otherwise need to happen in the pot.

Keep the ratio sensible while it cooks. Grounds need plenty of brown material alongside them – dry leaves or shredded cardboard – since a heap built largely from coffee can turn slimy rather than breaking down cleanly. Once finished, that compost can be used sparingly around terrestrial orchids growing in soil. It still has no business in a container of bark, no matter how well composted it is.

(Image credit: Alamy)Can Terrestrial Orchids Benefit From Coffee Compost?

Here the answer turns cautiously positive. A hardy ground orchid in a border has real soil under it, and the microbial community that comes with it. Work finished compost lightly into the surface, and it behaves as it would around any perennial. Structure improves. Nutrients arrive slowly, and the ground holds moisture further into summer.

Restraint is the whole game, though. A thin scattering once or twice a season does it, kept clear of the crown and pseudobulbs where trapped moisture starts rot. Uncomposted grounds piled on thickly cause something different – soil microbes go after that fresh carbon and pull available nitrogen out of circulation while they work. The plant goes hungry through the exact weeks it's putting on growth. That reverses eventually, but it can cost a season of flowering first.

Signs Coffee Grounds Are Harming Your Orchid

The medium tells you first. Bark still wet several days after watering has lost its drainage, and a white or gray bloom across the surface confirms it. A sour, fermented smell from the pot says the same thing. Small dark flies rising when the plant gets moved point at gnats breeding in there.

Roots give the clearest verdict, and a clear pot makes them visible. Healthy orchid roots look plump and silvery green when wet. Anything brown and soft has drowned, and a root that collapses under light pressure is past saving. Above the pot, watch for leaves turning yellow from the lowest ones upward, or a plant that stops producing new growth entirely for a season. At that stage, repotting an orchid into fresh medium beats waiting to see whether it recovers.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)Coffee Grounds Aren't a Substitute for Orchid Fertilizer

Orchid feeds are formulated around a limitation that explains this entire question. Many are urea-free because urea needs soil bacteria to convert it into a usable form, and a pot of bark simply doesn't hold enough of them. The same microbial gap that rules out urea rules out coffee grounds even more firmly.

For epiphytes in containers, a weak solution at every other watering covers what the plant needs, with an occasional plain water flush to clear accumulated salts. Anyone determined to use spent grounds should compost them properly and spread the results around terrestrial orchids outdoors. Moth orchids on a windowsill do better with something formulated for the job.

Orchid Essentials

Better-Gro Orchid Plus Fertilizer

If you want the best flowers, then get into the habit of feeding orchids weakly weekly with this water-soluble fertilizer.

Rosy Soil Orchid Soil Potting Mix

Give your orchids the perfect foundation with this peat-free, eco-friendly potting mix, formulated for superior aeration, drainage, and microbial root support to promote healthy growth and long-lasting blooms.

Meshpot Set of 2 Orchid Pots With Holes for Repotting

Support stronger, healthier orchids with this smart double-layer planter, featuring 360° airflow, air-pruning design, and a ventilated inner pot to prevent root rot while keeping your display sleek and stylish.

That tub of yogurt at the back of your fridge may have a second life in your garden, according to a surprising bit of advice making the rounds online. Yogurt does hold calcium and protein, which are two important nutrients tomatoes need to thrive. Though whether a tomato plant can use any of it is a separate question.

The claim that a spoonful of yogurt plopped into your watering can boost tomato growth turns up regularly in gardening forums, usually framed as a good calcium source for tomatoes. The logic runs that dairy is rich in calcium – and tomatoes often suffer from calcium problems – so giving plants a dose of dairy fertilizer can provide plants with what they need. But this theory isn't exactly accurate.

But yogurt isn't exactly useless in the garden. Use it alongside a proper tomato fertilizer and it could potentially give plants a little extra oomph. I'll walk you through the truth behind the claim that yogurt is a good fertilizer for tomatoes, how to try it out for yourself, and some precautions to take before using yogurt in your garden.

Why Gardeners Are Using Yogurt on Tomato Plants

Calcium is the main claim behind using yogurt as a tomato fertilizer. Blossom end rot ruins fruit every summer and a lack of calcium is often named as the culprit, so a tub of yogurt in the fridge is perhaps the nearest source on hand. Plain yogurt carries a fair amount of calcium by food standards, which makes the connection feel obvious.

The rest of the appeal spreads wider than just that one mineral, though. Yogurt is also a good source of protein and protein means nitrogen for plants.

Lactose is a sugar that soil microbes will eat readily, which can improve soil. Then there are the live cultures in yogurt, mainly Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus, which fit the popular notion of feeding soil biology as well. The tub was headed for the bin regardless.

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)Does Yogurt Tomato Fertilizer Really Work?

The case for yogurt as a calcium source for tomatoes falls apart once you really look at the numbers. A tablespoon (15 ml) of yogurt carries roughly 20 milligrams of calcium. A tomato in full fruit moves vastly more than that throughout a single season and the soil in which it grows is almost certainly holds a surplus already. So a spoonful of yogurt fertilizer doesn't make much of an impact.

Arithmetic isn't the real trouble, though. Calcium in dairy arrives bound to casein, which means soil microbes have to dismantle it before roots can reach any useful nutrients. Warmth and time do that work on their own timetable. Nobody decides when the nutrient turns up or whether it does so while the plant still needs it.

Blossom end rot is rarely a result of a shortage of calcium in the first place. It's more often a delivery failure. Uneven watering of tomato plants interrupts calcium moving into developing fruit, creating blossom end rot. Yogurt doesn't address the mechanism blocking the calcium, it only addresses the nutrient itself.

(Image credit: Mila Usmanova / Getty Images)Best Type of Yogurt to Use

If you still want to try out this homemade tomato fertilizer anyways, choosing the right yogurt is key. Plain yogurt is the only version that belongs near a garden bed. Nothing else on the dairy aisle qualifies. A tub of yogurt is cheap and choosing nonfat leaves less greasy residue behind than the full fat stuff. Fruit, honey, added sugar – none of it should reach the garden.

Artificial sweeteners are the other thing to skip, since they bring nothing to the soil and nobody can say how the residues behave in a garden bed. Sugar-loaded yogurt causes a quicker problem, drawing ants, wasps, and rodents to the base of the plant. Flavored tubs also carry stabilizers nobody should pour on a garden.

(Image credit: Alvaro Fernandez Echeverria / Getty Images)How to Make Yogurt Tomato Fertilizer

Dilution does the safety work for yogurt tomato fertilizer. One tablespoon (15 ml) of plain yogurt stirred into a full 2 gallon (9 L) watering can is the strongest dose you should use. Stir it well so nothing settles into a lump, then pour slowly around the drip line of your tomatoes, roughly 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) from the stem.

Follow with a can of plain water to carry the yogurt fertilizer below the soil surface, since dairy left sitting on top can cause problems. Keep every drop off the foliage as well. Damp residue on leaves in warm weather invites fungal tomato diseases far harder to fix than any nutrient shortage.

How Often to Apply

Applying yogurt tomato fertilizer once a month through the growing season is plenty and, often, less is fine. This belongs with small experiments rather than scheduled feeding, so there's little to gain from building a routine around it.

Anyone curious can run it properly. Treat one plant with the diluted mix, leave a matching plant untreated beside it and compare at season's end. That beats the anecdotes floating around online and it costs a single tub of yogurt.

What you should never do is replace a scheduled feed of traditional tomato fertilizer with only yogurt. A plant that doesn't receive real fertilizer and only yogurt just isn't being fed properly.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Mistakes To Avoid

Dolloping on a dose of yogurt fertilizer undiluted is a big problem for tomato plants. A blob of dairy on warm soil goes sour and draws flies. It can also set into a crust that sheds water instead of letting it through. Container plants suffer worst, since a pot holds little soil and none of the microbial diversity a bed uses to process organic matter.

Instead, if the goal is feeding the soil, a bag of Back to the Roots organic compost from Home Depot does that job properly.

Repeat applications of yogurt tomato fertilizer are the other trap. Residue accumulates and a spot treated over and over starts to smell bad and stays damp.

Signs to Stop Using Yogurt

A sour smell around the base of the plant means the residue is fermenting instead of breaking down cleanly. White or fuzzy growth across the soil surface signals the same issue. Scrape off what you can and flush the area with plain water.

Insects and animals can cause problems, too. Fungus gnats drifting around the stem are a sign something's wrong, but fruit flies more so. Soil turned over at night by raccoons or rats is the surest signal, since something has found the smell interesting. And a plant that looks worse than before the experiment started has already answered the question.

(Image credit: STELLA NEDELCHEVA / Getty Images)What to Use Instead

Fruiting tomatoes want steady nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, with an emphasis on the last two once flowering starts. Plants also need calcium and magnesium in amounts no kitchen leftover supplies. Espoma Tomato-tone 3-4-6 with 8% calcium from Amazon covers all a tomato needs in one product and yogurt simply can't compete.

Watering does more for blossom end rot than any additive from your fridge. Deep, even soakings in a steady rhythm with a few inches of mulch to hold in the moisture keep calcium moving into the fruit. All in all, save the yogurt for your breakfast. Invest in a good organic commercial tomato fertilizer or homemade compost instead.

The best garden pruners make it easier to achieve clean, precise cuts without damaging plants or leaving your hands aching. However, different tools suit different pruning jobs, so the right choice will depend on what you are cutting, how much power you need, and what feels comfortable to use.

For this guide, I tested six of the most popular pruners available, using them for tasks ranging from deadheading and trimming soft stems to cutting back thicker growth on fruit trees. I compared their cutting performance, comfort, build quality, versatility and value to find the best options for different gardeners and to cover all the pruning basics.

The Felco F6 Bypass Pruning Shears, available on Amazon, were my highest-rated pruners overall. They made consistently clean cuts, felt comfortable and well balanced in the hand, and handled both delicate stems and tougher growth with ease. Their combination of cutting performance, thoughtful design, and durability put them ahead of every other model I tested.

They will not be the best types of pruners for everyone, however. Bypass pruners are generally ideal for making clean cuts through live growth, while anvil models can provide more power when tackling tough, dry, or dead wood. You may also need a lightweight design for smaller hands, a more affordable option for occasional use, or a more powerful tool for thicker branches. This guide will help you choose the right pruner for your plants, hands, and budget.

The Quick List

Best overall

1. Felco F6 Pruning Shears

The best pruners overall

The Felco 6 is the finest pair of pruning shears I’ve ever had the pleasure of reviewing. Not only are these pruners an effective, convenient tool for pruning your plants, but with proper maintenance, they can be kept in perfect working condition for decades. Just don’t use them on thick tree branches.

Read more below

Best for larger hands

2. Felco F8 Pruning Shears

The best pruners for larger hands

Ergonomic shears are supposed to act like an extension of the gardener's body – and for larger users, that’s exactly what the superb Felco 8 pruners can do. With a one-inch cutting capacity, these shears can be used to cut suitably sized tree branches and for pruning plants.

Read more below

Best affordable pruners

3. Fiskars SmartFit Bypass Pruners

The best affordable pruners

These bypass pruning shears are not only affordable but also give you good all-round cutting performance. Simple, hard-wearing, and highly functional, this tool is a great choice for beginners who want to start out with straightforward, versatile pruners.

Read more below

Best adjustable pruners

4. Opinel Hand Pruning Shears

The best adjustable pruners

These French-made pruners make cutting easier, with a choice of cutting widths. The mixed-materials design is super-stylish, incorporating a beechwood handle. Its specialty is pruning moderately thick plant stems.

Read more below

Best pruning snips

5. Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13

The best pruning snips

Short, sharp, and soft-handled, the SP13 snips make it incredibly easy to deadhead plants and cut tender stems. They are not for cutting wood, but are ideal for pruning small potted plants – including most houseplants and indoor vegetables. You can use them for floristry, too.

Read more below

Best anvil pruners

6. Wolf-Garten Rsen Anvil Pruners

The best anvil pruners

Wolf-Garten’s excellent anvil pruners are specially designed to comfortably cut tough, woody stems and branches. The RSEN can also prune juicy stems reasonably well – but gnarly work is this tool's true calling

Read more below

The Best Pruners: Expert Reviews

Here’s your at-a-glance intro to our best pruners round-up. Scroll further down to read my findings from testing each product hands-on. You can also use the navigation links to jump to the pruners that interest you the most.

The Best Pruners OverallFutureFutureFuture1. Felco 6 Pruning Shears

The ultimate in Swiss engineering for your yard. Classy, comfortable and effective.

Type: Bypass pruners | Cutting capacity: 0.79″ | Blade material: Hardened steel | Handedness: Right | Accessories: Adjustment key

Outstanding pruning performance Beautiful designHighly sustainableExpensive

Founded in 1945, Felco is one of the world’s best-regarded makers of pruning shears. The Swiss company came out with its iconic Felco 2 secateurs in 1948 – and the Felco 6 pruning shears share much of that iconic tool’s design DNA. Intended for all-round pruning, the Felco 6 can cut through all sorts of stems and branches up to a thickness of 0.79 inches. These pruners are compact, comfortable, and built to last.

Design: Felco pruners are nothing short of a design masterpiece. The handles are ergonomically molded to suit various hand shapes and sizes – although the tool is recommended especially for users with medium-sized hands. The cutting blades are slightly angled, which helps you prune efficiently. For long-term use, you can use the adjustment key to disassemble the shears for routine maintenance.

Performance: I found the Felco 6 incredibly easy to use around the yard. Perfectly tensioned, the hardened steel bypass blades are able to cut even the toughest plant matter. Closing the shears by hand is remarkably easy, enabling convenient cutting over long-term use.

Versatility: There’s not much that these shears can’t cut. Even tough, woody branches soon gave way to the Felco 6’s sharp, precise blades during testing, and there won’t be many plants in your yard that these shears can’t prune. However, if you intend to cut branches thicker than 0.79 inches, use pruners with a greater cutting width or perhaps a mini chainsaw or lopper.

Price: Priced at over $70 by most retailers, the Felco 6 is one expensive pair of pruning shears. Are they worth it? That comes down to how much you enjoy gardening and the joy you take in your yard tools. On the plus side, the Felco 6 pruners are lower in price than most electric alternatives. And, if you take care of them, you could use these pruning shears for a lifetime.

Read more: Felco 6 Bypass Pruners review

Buy Them If…

✅ Gardening is your passion: The Felco 6 is a luxurious, truly top-quality pruning shears model. You will appreciate this exquisite tool if you love working in the yard.
✅ You think long-term: The user can replace all key components of the Felco 6 at home, including the blades, springs, and fixings.
✅ There are many plants to prune in your yard: These shears cut tender stems effortlessly, and the handles are very comfortable to hold.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ You don’t like taking tools apart: To keep the Felco 6 performing at its best, you’ll need to use their adjustment key to disassemble the shears now and then for cleaning, sharpening, or replacement of parts.
❌ You’re left-handed: Felco makes many excellent left-handed pruners, but the Felco 6 ain’t one of them due to its righty-focused ergonomics.
❌ There are many thick branches to prune in your yard: These shears are designed to cut up to a branch diameter of 0.79 inches – and no wider.

Felco 6 Pruning Shears Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Unbeatable cutting performance and user experience.

★★★★★

Design

A timeless design with great ergonomics.

★★★★★

Versatility

Suits most pruning tasks, except branch-cutting.

★★★★

Price

A big investment with long-term rewards.

★★★★

The Best Pruners for Larger HandsPete WisePete WisePete Wise2. Felco 8 Pruning Shears

Stellar Felco quality and performance, in a slightly larger pruner.

Type: Bypass pruners | Cutting capacity: 0.98″ | Blade material: Hardened steel | Handedness: Right | Accessories: Adjustment key

Exceptional cutting performance Great aetheticsErgonomic design for large hands Not ideal for users with smaller hands Expensive

I’ll show you just one more pair of Felco pruners before I move on to some other brands. There’s good reason to highlight this particular manufacturer: its pruning shears are incredible. The Felco 8 is an ergonomic redesign of the classic Felco 2. It works beautifully, features high-quality construction, and includes an adjustment key for convenient maintenance. This model is a little longer than the Felco 6 and, therefore, better suited to users with larger hands. It also has a slightly greater cutting width.

Design: You’ll notice the difference between these Felco pruners and smaller models like the Felco 6 when you squeeze the handles. Closing the blades takes more effort but produces more leverage and a wider cut. Whether or not that’s a good thing depends on the size of your hands. If I were being critical, I’d say the Felco style loses some of its elegance in this larger iteration – but the pruners are still more beautiful than almost any other you’re likely to encounter.

Performance: These pruners cut cleanly through every size-appropriate (under one inch) branch or stem I tested them on. You’ll only encounter difficulties with the Felco 8 if you try to use them for pruning large branches over an inch in thickness. For all intended pruning applications, these shears work perfectly. Remember that the handles are ergonomically designed for a large hand. The size of your hands will affect performance.

Versatility: The Felco 8 gives you greater versatility than smaller Felco models, such as the Felco 6, owing to its greater cutting capacity: approximately one inch. This expands the range of tree branches that can comfortably be pruned using the pruner’s blades. The excellent sharpness and tensioning of the blades mean that the Felco 8 can very cleanly cut fleshy plant stems without any messy ‘chewing.’

Price: Usually costing more than $60, the Felco 8 pruners are expensive compared to the average manual pruners. However, given the quality of the Felco 8's construction and the availability of replacement parts, the price you pay could be a wise long-term investment. Users who only prune occasionally might prefer to buy a more affordable option.

Buy Them If…

✅ You have lots of pruning to do: The Felco 8 is suitable for long-duration pruning sessions. It offers exceptional cutting performance and comfortable handles.
✅ Sustainability matters to you: Not only are these shears great quality, but you can also replace all the key parts over time. The Felco 8 could be your trusty pruning companion for decades.
✅ Your hands are large: This pruner's ergonomic design is intended especially for larger hands. If you have smaller hands, try the Felco 6 instead.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ There are more important things to spend your money on: You can find highly effective pruning shears for a much lower price – although they might not be as special as the Felco 8.
❌ You’ll be pruning branches over one inch thick: If so, you’ll probably need a lopper or a mini chainsaw instead. Using shears on an excessively thick branch is bad for the blades.
❌ You don’t have large hands: We, the manually mediocre, are better off using a smaller pruner, such as the Felco 6, with an ergonomic design that suits us.

Felco 8 Pruning Shears Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Supreme cutting performance across stems and narrow branches.

★★★★★

Design

Timeless Felco design, adapted for large hands.

★★★★

Versatility

Excllent versatility relative to smaller bypass pruners.

★★★★★

Price

A big investment, for long-term use.

★★★★

The Best Affordable PrunersPete WiseFuturePete Wise3. Fiskars SmartFit Bypass Pruners

Not only affordable; effective, low-maintenance and beginner-friendly too.

Type: Bypass pruners | Cutting capacity: ⅝ inch | Blade material: Steel | Handedness: Left or right | Accessories: N/A

Great for pruning soft stems and thin branchesBudget-friendlySimple, beginner-friendly designLacks premium build qualityNot suitable for pruning thick branches

What you need to know: Finnish toolmaker Fiskars has a history dating back to the 1600s. Relatively recently – in 1967 – the brand produced the world’s first plastic-handled scissors. Today, effective, affordable cutting tools remain a Fiskars specialty, and the SmartFit Bypass Pruners are a great example. These shears suit various pruning tasks, from deadheading to cutting small branches.

Design: A study in simplicity, the shears are robust, minimalistic, and functional. It may not be luxurious, but this tool is perfectly suited for convenient pruning, with curved, ergonomic handles that will be especially comfortable for users with small or medium-sized hands.

Performance: The SmartFit Bypass Pruners are great at pruning slender tree branches up to their maximum cutting width. It takes a bit of effort to cut through the thickest branches within that range – but the sharp blades will manage it, and can also handle relatively delicate stems. These pruner are an affordable option, so it should come as no surprise that some components – especially the spring and locking mechanism – are slightly flimsy.

Versatility: The SmartFit Bypass Pruners offer a fairly good range of cutting capabilities. While these shears will struggle with cutting thicker tree branches, they can tackle most branches and stems up to just under ⅝ inch. If you keep the blades sufficiently sharp, the shears should prove capable of cutting thin, fleshy stems without too much chewing. For delicate pruning tasks, you might prefer to use a smaller pruner, such as the Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13, or a sharper-bladed model, such as the Felco 6.

Price: The SmartFit Bypass Pruners are a reasonably priced choice, particularly for gardeners who will benefit from the adjustable blade opening and handle span. They do not offer the refinement, precision or long-term serviceability of a premium pair, but they handle routine deadheading, stem cutting and light branch pruning capably.

Read more: Fiskars SmartFit Bypass Pruners review

Buy Them If…

✅ All-round pruning functionality is your focus: These shears are strong enough to cut fairly thick woody branches and sharp and precise enough for delicate tasks such as deadheading.
✅ You’re new to pruning: This Fiskars pruner has a simple, beginner-friendly design and versatile cutting capabilities.
✅ You value long-term, low-maintenance performance. Thanks to their rust-resistant, hardened steel blades, these shears can sustain high-performance cutting over long-term use.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ Very delicate pruning is required: A different Fiskars pruner, the Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13, is better suited to this type of work.
❌ You like a traditional aesthetic: These bypass pruners' no-frills, utilitarian design will appeal to many users, but for those who appreciate a more traditional look, a Felco pruner would be a better choice.
❌ There are thick branches to prune on your trees: An anvil pruner or lopper may perform better in this specific use case. (Which specific model is best will depend on the thickness of the branches.)

Fiskars SmartFit Bypass Pruners Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Good pruning performance across most routine tasks.

★★★★

Design

Minimal, modern design, suitable for most hands.

★★★★

Versatility

Capable of pruning a good range of woody and tender plants.

★★★★

Price

Exceptional value-for-money.

★★★★★

The Best Adjustable PrunersPete WiseFutureFuture4. Opinel Hand Pruning Shears

These bypass pruners combine impressive, adjustable cutting with a dash of French flair.

Type: Bypass pruners | Cutting capacity: 0.78″ | Blade material: Stainless steel | Handedness: Left or right | Accessories: N/A

Adjustable cutting widthSuper-stylish designVery good pruning performanceSap build-up affects actionNot ideal for smaller hands

Made by the historic French toolmaker Opinel – a brand that’s world-famous for its wooden-handled cutting tools – these Hand Pruning Shears are a superb choice for effective cutting and elegant aesthetics. This tool’s bypass cutting action and sharp, stainless steel blades equip it for a variety of pruning tasks, including cutting back plants and shrubs, and pruning thin tree branches. It is made with a high-quality combination of materials, including stainless steel, beechwood, and molded plastic.

Design: I loved these pruners for their eye-catching, functional design, with one handle made of beechwood and the other of molded plastic. A special feature that’s worth noting is the adjustable cutting width – you can choose between two settings using the unmissable, bright orange selector near the blades. The only design downside to these shears is that the wider cutting setting makes for higher-effort use.

Performance: The Opinel Hand Pruning Shears performed very well in my testing, easily producing clean cuts when used to prune plants like roses and foxgloves. Very delicate pruning was made easier by the curved bottom blade of the shears, which helped me to isolate narrow stems among dense growth. Regular cleaning is required to maintain a smooth cutting action, as these shears are strongly affected by buildup of sap.

Versatility: If you’re only going to buy one pair of pruning shears, this model would be an excellent choice. It can cover a wider range of pruning tasks than most other shears I’ve tested, from deadheading flowering plants and pruning shrubs to cutting tree limbs (up to 0.78″). Basically, it’s good for everything except heavier tree pruning, which is usually a task for loppers or a chainsaw.

Price: One reason why you might not choose the Opinel Hand Pruning Shears is their price, which tends to exceed $70. That puts them in the same price bracket as the Felco 6, so that's some high-quality competition. I believe the pricing of Opinel’s pruner is justified by its unique, beautiful design and excellent performance – but you might want to wait around for a seasonal sale.

Buy Them If…

✅ You have an eye for classic tool design: Few pruners are as beautiful as the Opinel Hand Pruning Shears, with their mixed materials design, colorful accents and pleasingly curved blades.

✅ Adjustable cutting width will make pruning easier: This is a particularly good choice of pruner for users who find pruning hard work, as the lower cutting width requires a smaller effort with each cut.

✅ Most of your plants have moderately thick stems: While very thin stems and thick tree branches are a little outside of this pruner's comfort zone, it cuts fairly thick stems and thin branches very effectively.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ Pruning trees is your priority: Some tree branches can be pruned effectively with this Opinel pruner, but branches thicker than 0.78″ will require a tool with greater cutting capacity.

❌ Your budget is limited: This is one of the most expensive manual pruner models included in this guide. Its premium design merits a premium price, but you could get a functional pruner at a lower cost.

❌ You have small hands: Using this pruner's two-step cutting width adjustment will give you some control over the required grip, but you'd need relatively large hands to comfortably use the wider option.

Opinel Hand Pruning Shears Test Results

Performance

Clean cuts and excellent accuracy for lower-width pruning tasks.

★★★★

Design

Beautiful materials and excellent usability.

★★★★★

Versatility

Good for pretty much everything, except heavy tree pruning.

★★★★★

Price

Expensive, but a worthy investment for keen gardeners and design aficionados.

★★★

The Best Pruning SnipsPete WisePete WisePete Wise5. Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13

These tiny snips are great for deadheading plants and cutting tender stems.

Type: Pruning snips | Cutting capacity: Designed to prune narrow stems | Blade material: Stainless steel | Handedness: Left or right | Accessories: Sheath

Sharp, precise blades Light and maneuverableGreat priceNot suitable for pruning woodSharp points should not be used around children

The most delicate pruning tasks should be approached with care and precision. The Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 brilliantly meets these needs with its streamlined, lightweight design and sharp, elongated blades. Bundled in with the snips is a protective sheath, which should be put on the blades whenever the snips are not being used.

Design: The SP13 is a well-designed pair of snips with slightly rough-around-the-edges construction. Using the snips is generally simple and low-effort – although I sometimes had difficulty closing the locking mechanism during testing. The snips’ blades are sharp along their full length, all the way to the tip. As an old-school scissors-maker might say, they cut “right from pinch to point.”

Performance: The Fiskars snips are sharp, efficient, and effective at cutting tender stems. They’re designed especially for pruning tender stems and deadheading, so it is no surprise that the snips are incapable of cutting tree branches – even very thin ones. When I used the snips as intended, they cut delicate stems and flower heads with great precision. The handles spring back open quite forcefully after each cut.

Versatility: These snips can perform a fairly wide range of tasks – but only at the more delicate end of the pruning spectrum. They will do the job well if you need to precisely prune narrow stems, remove dead flowerheads, or cut stems for indoor display. However, a more powerful tool, such as a bypass pruner, will provide a better range of cutting capability for general outdoor pruning. If you have any tree pruning to do, this pruner will not help you do it.

Price: You can’t argue with the pricing of the Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13. With that said, you should factor in this tool’s specialized cutting capabilities before you buy. You will likely need to purchase an additional tool for pruning thicker, woodier stems. Of course, the build quality of the snips is also reflected in their price.

Read more: Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 review

Buy Them If…

✅ You need a precise tool for pruning dense plants: The SP13 may be small, but those long, keen blades are great at finding their target in overgrown areas. For careful pruning, look no further.
✅ A lightweight tool suits you: Weighing about one-and-a-half oz, you’ll barely feel these snips while you work. This could make a big difference during a long pruning session.
✅ You’re into flower arranging: These snips are perfect for cutting flowers for indoor display. Remember to cut stems diagonally to maximize a cut plant’s water uptake for long-lasting freshness.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ Powerful pruning is required: These delicate snips are not intended for cutting thick stems or woody branches. If that’s the work you’ll be doing, consider buying a bypass or anvil pruner instead.
❌ You’re uncomfortable having sharp tools in the yard: As the SP13 snips are sharp and pointy, they definitely shouldn’t be left where they might endanger children or pets.
❌ You need to extend your reach: The SP13 snips are in their element at close quarters. If you aim to prune, high-up or hard-to-reach stems, you’d be better off using a longer-reach tool such as a pole lopper.

Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Great at precisely pruning tender stems.

★★★★

Design

Brilliant design, but construction is economical.

★★★

Versatility

Limited to the most delicate pruning tasks.

★★★

Price

A remarkably affordable price point.

★★★★★

6. The Best Anvil PrunersPete WisePete WiseCutting a hosta stem with Wolf-Garten's RSEN pruner.Pete Wise6. Wolf-Garten Anvil Pruner RSEN

Let these powerful pruning shears and their branch-crushing anvil blade take the strain

Type: Anvil pruners | Cutting capacity: 0.75" | Blade material: Coated metal | Handedness: Left or right | Accessories: N/A

Powerful branch cutting Very good priceBuilt to lastNot ideal for soft, tender plantsExtended use can be laborious

Some plants with thick stems or lots of tough branches can’t be cut using bypass pruners. This is where anvil pruners like the RSEN can help. Anvil pruners have a sharp top blade and a wide, flat bottom blade – a design that provides enhanced cutting power for heavy-duty pruning. Wolf-Garten’s Anvil Pruner RSEN is an excellent example, with robust construction and a 10-year guarantee. Unlike some anvil pruners, which are made solely for cutting tree branches, the RSEN is sold as a general-purpose anvil pruner, meaning it can be used for cutting soft plants, too.

Design: Wolf-Garten has a knack for making smart, timeless-looking garden tools – and the RSEN anvil pruners are no exception. The design is effective and attractive, with some nicely implemented features, including a metal locking button. The blades have a non-stick coating, which will help to keep the pruners clean – especially if you’re going to use them to cut sappy branches. Of course, the star of the show is the RSEN's anvil-style pruning blades, perfect for pruning tough branches. Weighing in at just 8 oz, these pruners are impressively lightweight relative to the cutting force generated. The shears have an ambidextrous design, allowing optimal usage, whether you're right- or left-handed.

Performance: During my hands-on testing, the RSEN chomped through tough tree branches better than any other manual pruner could, requiring limited extra effort to sever the wood. The flat bottom blade holds the branch steady while you cut. The RSEN anvil pruners were capable of cutting tree branches with a wide range of thicknesses, right up towards the higher end of their cutting capacity. The cuts produced were clean and regular, which is good for tree health. I was also pleasantly surprised with the RSEN’s performance when cutting tender stems, which was neater than the average anvil pruners.

Versatility: Anvil pruners are unsuitable for delicate work, such as deadheading flowering plants. Although the Wolf-Garten Anvil Pruners RSEN are more precise than many competing anvil pruners, they're better at cutting thicker, tougher stems. They do their main job – heavy-duty work – very well but also have the versatility to do some lighter tasks to an acceptable level. All things considered, we rate the RSEN as good general-purpose pruners with excellent capabilities for cutting slender tree branches.

Price: You can pick up RSEN anvil pruners from stockists such as Amazon for around $55. We wouldn’t necessarily recommend buying the RSEN as your only pruners. However, if you have the budget for two pairs – these plus a pair of bypass pruners – then you could keep both pairs working optimally for longer by using the RSEN only for heavy-duty pruning while reserving the bypass pruner for delicate tasks. This pruner offered exceptionally good build quality and performance at a reasonable price.

Buy Them If…

✅ You need a manual pruner to cut tough stems: These anvil pruners combine a sharp top blade with a wide bottom blade to tackle tough tree branches or sinuous stems up to ¾-inch thick.
✅ Long-term use matters to you: German toolmaker Wolf-Garten offers a 10-year guarantee on these well-built pruning shears (subject to warranty conditions).
✅ You already have a bypass pruner for pruning delicate plants: While the RSEN can cut soft stems, it’s not the ideal tool for gentle work. This anvil pruner is a heavy-duty alternative, not an all-round solution.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ You have lots of delicate plants to prune: Like other anvil pruners, the RSEN could do a lot of damage to the softest and most tender plants. Of course, the RSEN's aggressive action is better suited to branch-cutting.
❌ Pruning tires out your hands: If there are many plants in your yard, pruning can be a big, time-consuming task. With this in mind, it’s worth noting that using the RSEN for pruning plants (but not cutting branches) requires a little more elbow grease than cutting with some of the other manual pruners we’ve tested.
❌ You’re in a big hurry: It may take a couple of weeks for your Wolf-Garten pruners to arrive, as the shears are often sent to the US from overseas.

Wolf-Garten Anvil Pruner RSEN Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Great at cutting tough stems and branches.

★★★★

Design

Good functionality and a smart aesthetic.

★★★★

Versatility

Best at tough jobs, although capable of finer work.

★★★★

Price

Fairly priced and built to last.

★★★★

How to Choose the Best Pruners for You

When considering how to choose pruning shears, there are a few things that will need to be factored into your thought process.

All-round pruning capability: A bypass pruner will likely be your best choice if you're buying just one pruner to cover most pruning tasks around your yard and home. Named for their blade action, with one blade passing by the other, these traditional pruners are usually suitable for a range of pruning tasks, including deadheading, cutting tender stems, and sometimes pruning narrow tree branches.

Specialized pruning: Other pruners are available to suit particular pruning types that may not be catered for with a bypass pruner. Mini chainsaws can prune larger branches, while pole loppers are used to cut well above head height. Snips enable delicate cutting of the smallest stems and flowers at the smaller end of the scale. Meanwhile, anvil pruners are great at cutting tough sinew or woody branches.

Quality: Just how good do you need your pruners to be? A wide range of price points is available, and the same is true of the level of quality in pruner design and construction. For a luxurious, long-term solution, premium brands such as Felco can provide the required standards. Or, if affordability is the focus, a reasonably priced make such as Fiskars could be your best bet.

What Type of Pruner is Best for You?

As reflected in the wide range of tools featured in this guide, there are various pruners. Each variety has been created for specific purposes, so it's worth considering which option will best suit your yard's needs.

Bypass pruners are a classic style of manual pruning shears with sharp blades that cut materials when they pass against each other. They have great all-round pruning capabilities, from light pruning tasks such as deadheading and removing dead flower heads to slightly heavier work, including cutting thin, woody branches.

Anvil pruners are similar to bypass pruners, but they have a flat bottom blade that crushes plant matter while the top blade slices through it. This type of pruner is especially well-suited to cutting fairly thick tree branches or slicing through sinuous stems.

Pruning snips are a smaller style of manual pruning shears with sharp, accurate blades ideal for making neat cuts. They are not suitable for cutting tree branches or tough stems.

Mini chainsaws are a high-powered option for pruning tree branches. Like a full-size chainsaw, this tool cuts plant matter using a rapidly revolving metal chain. You would not want a mini chainsaw to prune soft or juicy plants.

Pole loppers help the user prune high-up tree branches. Their clever design incorporates trigger-activated, electric pruning jaws and a long pole to increase reach.

How We Tested These Pruners

I received a sample unit of each pruner featured in this guide and used each tool to carry out an appropriate range of tasks in my yard.

The tests included cutting tree branches of varying widths (up to the advertised cutting capacity), deadheading flowers, and cutting through juicy plant stems.

In addition to assessing their cutting performance, I compared the pruners based on other criteria including how much effort was required to use them, how comfortable they were to hold, and the effectiveness of extra features such as opening width selectors and lock buttons.

Some of the pruners have specialized functions. In these cases, my testing was focused mainly on these tools' special intended use cases.

I then consolidated all of my tests and scored each pruning shear out of 5 (5 being the highest). This new scoring system ensures more accuracy and consistency across our testing criteria. It's then over to you to decide which is the best pruner for you based on my first-hand experience.

(Image credit: Pete Wise)Pruners FAQsWhat Are Pruners Used For?

Pruners are versatile tools to use around the yard. Their primary purpose is to remove damaged, diseased, or dead stems and branches from plants. Smaller pruners, such as "pruning snips," are perfect for snipping more delicate flowers, whereas "anvil" pruners are more suited to cutting back woody stems and branches.

By removing this matter, you'll avoid unwanted insects and diseases, so it's important to keep checking the foliage throughout the seasons to maintain healthy growth.

Are Pruners the Same as Secateurs?

In short, yes. Depending on where you are, "hand pruners" is a term used in America, whereas "secateurs" is a British word. You can use both types of scissors with one hand to cut back plants and gently tame shrubs and trees.

What is the Difference Between Garden Shears and Pruning Shears?

The main difference between the two is their physical size. Garden shears are smaller and easier to hold, so they are ideal for cutting foliage at a low level, such as grass. While some pruning shears, on the other hand, can be held comfortably in one hand, others can be longer in length to make them suitable for trimming back trees with low and/or new branches.

This difference in size means that you'll need to consider where you plan on storing the shears since the longer-length pruning shears may not be able to fold down.

When is a Good Time to Buy Pruners?

As with many yard tools, pruners often become more heavily discounted around the time of big sales events such as Amazon Prime Day and Black Friday. While these sales events are generally classed as being out of season, you'll be ready for the big spring prune.

You can expect to see bypass and anvil pruners as well as mini chainsaws discounted by up to 40% during the holidays. You will need to be quick to add to cart, though, since it's a popular time of the year to shop.

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

44 — 3552 Victoria Dr., Coquitlam

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom townhouse

Size: 1,596 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,022,000

Listed for: $950,000

Sold for: $910,000

Sold on: June 3

Days on market in this listing: 12

Listing agent: Erin Aldrich-Rae at ReMax All Points Realty

Buyers agent: Mike Giesbrecht at Royal LePage Sussex

The big sell: According to buyers’ agent Mike Giesbrecht, his clients were attracted to this property as it offered more space than newer, similar homes yet was new enough to avoid significant capital expenditure for building projects in the near term. A location in Coquitlam’s family-oriented Burke Mountain was another draw. The home in question is a townhouse within Mosaic’s Victoria development, a six-year-old complex that offers Mount Baker views, a clubhouse, playground, and access to nearby parks, schools and trails. The unit contains lofty 10-foot-high ceilings, south-east-facing windows, a modern open-concept kitchen with quartz countertops, matte black hardware, and a centre island for family gatherings. All three bedrooms are upstairs including a primary suite complete with a glass-surround shower in the ensuite bathroom. The lower level features a recreation room (that could be a fourth bedroom) plus an additional bathroom. The home’s monthly maintenance fee is $330.33, and it comes with two parking spaces.

2256 Garden Dr., Vancouver

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom half duplex

Size: 1,902 square feet

B.C. Assessment: N/A

Listed for: $1,998,000

Sold for: $1,965,000

Sold on: May 18

Days on market in this listing: Six

Listing agent: Jessica Chen PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Cara Wong PREC at Oakwyn Realty

The big sell: Both the front and back homes within this newly-completed duplex property sold within days of each other with a thoughtfully-designed interior, modern colour palette, and spacious floorplans contributing to the appeal. Built by Mirani Homes in East Vancouver’s Grandview-Woodland neighbourhood, the property benefits from proximity to the eateries and amenities that line Nanaimo Street as well as schools and transit arteries. This particular home is the west-facing front unit and features all three bedrooms and two bathrooms on the second floor, and a top floor that boasts a versatile space in excess of 500 square feet that could be a home office, playroom, media room or used for guests. There is herringbone flooring on the main level, custom millwork, a fireplace feature wall, overheight windows, and a useful powder room. A detached single garage and a substantial crawl space offer additional storage options.

2522 Bronte Dr., North Vancouver

Type: Five-bedroom, two-bathroom detached

Size: 2,871 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $2,020,000

Listed for: $1,799,000

Sold for: $1,760,000

Sold on: May 19

Days on market in this listing: One

Listing agent: Brian Rybchinsky PREC at Virani Real Estate Advisors

Buyers agent: Kelsie Struch PREC at Stilhavn Real Estate Services

The big sell: This custom-built one-owner home was on the market for just one day before an accepted offer was received. Situated in the heart of Blueridge, the two-storey house features a generous layout with more than 1,500 square feet on the main level and a little less than that downstairs. There are oversized windows and skylights throughout the main floor that allow for an abundance of natural light to fill the home, generous-sized rooms with hardwood floors, a double-sided fireplace, a solid oak kitchen, and recessed lighting. The lower level provides equally expansive rooms with a recreation room, kitchen, great room, and two bedrooms. On the outside, there is more than 400 square feet of elevated sundeck with steps that lead down to a beautifully manicured lot that enjoys a 67-foot-wide frontage and 135-foot length. Blueridge consists of a series of cul-de-sacs that are linked by walking paths with schools, parks, and a coffee shop nearby.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

Related

• Sold (Bought): Marpole home offers flexible living arrangements
• Sold (Bought): Cambie townhouse offers resort-style living with full suite of amenities

If you’ve found yourself at your door juggling grocery bags, boxes and baby while fruitlessly searching your pockets for those darn keys, smart locks can get you in. They work through a Bluetooth or Wi-Fi connection using an app on a smartphone or via integrated home security systems or devices like Google Nest , Amazon Echo or Apple’s HomeKit to unlock your door hands-free.

Not only can you go completely keyless, you can program these handy devices to generate a temporary code for guests, deliveries, housecleaners, dog-walkers and other services. They also take the worry out of wondering if you locked the door or left it ajar. They even maintain an activity log so you can check on your home remotely.

Most smart locks work with the lock you already have or you can get a complete deadbolt that you can easily install yourself (more complicated devices might need a pro).

Unlock the right lock for the right door

There are tons of types of smart locks for any kind of door that will operate via PIN codes, fingerprint scans, Wi-Fi, smartphone apps, or keypads. Some locks allow you to program more than 50 fingerprints and over 200 different access codes. Set up is done using a separate app or on the lock itself.

The New York Times’ Wirecutter reviewers, Consumer Reports, Popular Mechanics and even Mike Holmes named Schlage as a top pick for its reliability, ease of installation and use, as well as its heavy metal encasing with the ability to withstand 250,000 cycles and 10 door strikes with a hammer (?!).

“Today’s smart locks use a combination of technologies,” says Katherine Tmej, marketing manager for security company Allegion, Schlage’s manufacturer. “Bluetooth provides a reliable local connection, Wi-Fi lets you manage your locks remotely, and newer technologies that are Matter-certified (meaning they work across different brands and platforms like Apple Home, Google Home and Amazon Alexa) help improve connectivity across the smart devices in your home.”

She says the new Schlage Sense Pro Smart Deadbolt , featuring Schlage Converge technology with Ultra-Wideband (UWB), Matter and Thread networks, detects when you’re at your door and ready to enter then it will unlock hands-free. You can also tap to unlock your door with Apple Home Key using your iPhone or Apple Watch; by keypad code entry; and one-touch locking on your way out. The company’s Encode Plus, with Apple Home Key support, built-in Wi-Fi and a BHMA Grade 1 deadbolt, gets high marks for withstanding Canada’s frigid temps.

Speaking of which, Canadian company Alfred Smart Locks manufactures commercial grade door hardware that’s specifically designed with our climate in mind, using specialized seals that keep the lock from freezing in temperatures down to -35C.

Utilizing Bluetooth connectivity, Z-Wave (a low-energy wireless signal similar to Bluetooth) with Google Home or Alexa apps, Alfred locks work through a touchscreen PIN pad, fingerprint scanner or physical key. The Alfred DB series alerts you to who’s entering your home and when, handles up to 20 PIN codes, and comes with a physical key override. They also get top marks for looking so good in their chrome, gold or black finishes.

The Yale Assure Lock 2 Plus gets good reviews for its versatility without the bulk of similar locks. The module also works with Bluetooth, as well as Apple Home and Z-Wave, and lets you tap your iPhone or Apple Watch to unlock your door. It also stores a virtual key in your Apple Wallet. The built-in Wi-Fi module lets you track comings and goings, gives you real-time alerts, and locks and unlocks the door from anywhere using its app.

The Aqara U200 is coveted by tech heads for its ease of integration with a variety of smart home ecosystems including Amazon Echo or Alexa, Google Home or Apple Home. It uses a fingerprint scanner, PIN code, app, NFC Card, Apple Wallet virtual keys, as well as a physical key, pairs with Apple Home Keys and connects via Bluetooth or the Zigbee wireless mesh network.

The Lockly Visage Zeno deadbolt not only has built-in Wi-Fi, Apple Home Key, Apple Watch, 3D fingerprint sensor using AI, and PIN codes, it utilizes facial recognition in one second to unlock automatically, even at night using infrared. It also allows you to use Siri to unlock your door. Each of the two rechargeable batteries lasts up to eight months. In fact, it’s a good idea to keep an eye on your battery power and expect to replace them every six to eight months, depending on usage. Also, keep up with software and firmware updates for extra security.

You can also get smart locks through telecommunications companies as part of a monthly fee. Telus offers smart locks through Weiser Home Connect 620 with keypad access, remote control, and SmartKey technology (which also allows you to use your existing key) as part of their SmartHome+ subscription. Rogers’ Smart Door Lock Touchscreen Electronic Deadbolt system, which also uses Weiser, is available through its Smart Home Monitoring plan.

Screw it

Installing most smart locks is pretty straightforward, requiring roughly 15 minutes and a simple screwdriver if you’re replacing an existing deadbolt or installing one in a new door that’s pre-drilled. It takes longer if you’re installing a new deadbolt in a door without one.

The locks usually include the bolt, exterior keyed lock or keypad, and interior thumb lever and plate that replace your existing deadbolt, or you can place them above it. Or you can simply replace the interior thumb lever and plate and use the existing deadbolt and exterior keyed lock.

For backup, most companies offer a step-by-step guide to installation as well as answers to any questions around usage and troubleshooting.

Tmej says the difference between doorknob and lever handle replacement locks comes down to a balance of style, function and accessibility. “Many homeowners select a lever or doorknob based on the look they want to achieve, while lever handles are generally easier to operate for people of all ages and abilities. Regardless of the style, the deadbolt, not the handle, is the primary security component for exterior doors.”

Smart locks are available from Amazon, Home Depot and Best Buy with prices ranging from $78 to over $400, depending on features and home compatibility.

Cybersecurity protections

Manufacturers insist that their locks are pick-proof and hacker-resistant. But Michael Felgner, SST-TQ, RSE, RSC, PID, and BCIT instructor for its Security Systems Technician Program, says, “Any technology is hackable. Any functionality has a failure rate. In my own personal opinion, you are forfeiting a lot of security for convenience. When your smartphone comes in proximity to your property, the door will unlock, the alarm will turn off. If someone takes your phone, they don’t necessarily need to access the phone, they just need to have it in proximity to the residence and they have access.

“Generally speaking, locks with a key are incredibly reliable. There’s no app, no ongoing fees, no recurring revenue you have to pay out to somebody else. So from a cost perspective, really good quality locks are an incredibly good investment.”

He also questions personal data protection when you hand over your personal information to use companies’ apps. “If you have a system out of the U.S., you have no data sovereignty. Does the company have the right to sell your information? Who’s the custodian of that information and what happens with it? We in Canada have much better privacy protections than the U.S. but most of these products, like Nest or Google, are American-based and they have the right to the data that you have to give them in order for these things to work.”

He concedes, though, that if you choose quality products with reputable suppliers “you should have no trouble”.

Tmej says you don’t have to be a cybersecurity expert but you should look for locks that have an established track record in security and ongoing software support. “While most smart locks use encrypted communication, the difference is often in how manufacturers manage vulnerabilities over time through regular firmware updates, responsible security testing and long-term product support. Keeping your lock’s firmware up-to-date is one of the most important things you can do to maintain both security and reliability. Our smart lock offerings are convenient to use without sacrificing homeowner security. They’re designed with the latest encryption technologies to ensure they are secure and only authorized individuals can communicate with them.”

A great solution for heatwave summers, low-growing groundcover plants act as a living mulch to lock moisture into the soil and protect roots from extreme temperatures. And groundcover doesn’t need to be boring! These fabulously flamboyant flowering groundcover plants will bring months of beautiful blooms to borders, and keep your garden full of color into fall.

If it’s been a while since you looked at groundcover plants, you’ll be astonished to discover some dazzling new varieties that combine all the benefits of traditional groundcover with the ornamental delights usually only seen in far taller plants. There’s even a groundcover hydrangea for goodness sake!

So forget the usual fodder of forgettable groundcover and try a showstopper instead. Here’s my pick of the most eye-catching groundcover plants to keep your soil cool and your borders packed with blooms into fall.

1. Groundbreaker Hydrangea For a Sea of Blooms

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

• Zones 5-8
• Full sun to partial shade
• Grows 12-16" tall and 24-32" wide

Let’s start with the plant most likely to cause serious neighbor envy, shall we? Because if you plant this groundcover carpet of color-changing hydrangea blooms, expect everyone to ask what is! The fabulous new Groundbreaker series of hydrangeas brings all the beauty of the perennial blooms we all know and love to ground level. The world’s first-ever spreading groundcover hydrangea, this plant grows out instead of up, only reaching 12-16 inches high yet spreading up to 32 inches wide. Well-branched stems mean lots of conical flowers, and the blooming period lasts a whopping 100 days.

Launched two years ago, Groundbreaker hydrangeas only became available to buy in the United States in July 2026, and they’re proving hugely popular. And no wonder: growing panicle hydrangeas is straightforward to begin with, but these have been bred to be especially low maintenance.

So if you want one, you’d better be quick as these beautiful hydrandgeas are selling out fast. At the time of writing, all three Groundbreaker hydrangea varieties are available from Plant Addicts. Groundbreaker Blush Hydrangea has large white flower panicles in midsummer that gradually develop blush pink tones. Groundbreaker Ruby Hydrangea also blooms white but its flowers deepen to a rich ruby red, while Groundbreaker Greeny Hydrangea transitions the other way with blooms opening a bright lime green then gradually softening to a creamy white.

2. Drift Rose For Three-Season Color

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 4-11
• Full sun to partial shade
• Grows 1-2' tall and 3' wide

The series of Drift roses are a cross between full-size groundcover roses and miniature roses, so while they’ll bring abundant color to a border, they won’t take over. These rebloomers produce wave after wave of flowers from spring till late fall and are self-cleaning, which means you don’t need to deadhead. They’re super-easy to look after, too, being highly resilient against common rose issues including black spot and powdery mildew.

There are all sorts of fabulous colors to choose from, and some have transitioning tones. In fact, the only downside to these low-maintenance roses is that they only have a mild scent, or no fragrance at all.

Nature Hills stocks a great selection of Drift roses. Popcorn Drift blooms a golden yellow and transitions to cream, while Coral Drift, Peach Drift and Apricot Drift also have color-shifting blooms in a variety of warm tones. Sweet Drift is a ravishing pink with around 30 petals on each flower, while Pink Drift has simple single blooms that are better for pollinators. Red Drift holds its bright scarlet color even in a hot summer.

3. Blue Waterfall Bellflower for a Designer Look

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

• Zones 4-8
• Partial to full sun
• Grows 6-10" high and 24-36" wide

There are lots of good things to say about this pretty plant, but perhaps its finest asset is that it’s often employed by landscape designers, so instantly brings a professional look. While Campanula poscharskyana ‘Camgood’ is typically housed in a pot or a hanging basket, its trailing stems make excellent groundcover, speedily spreading around larger plants.

And this little perennial is sure to attract attention with its ice-blue star-shaped flowers that last through summer into fall.

While this perennial grows quickly, it doesn’t run out of control, and happily thrives in pretty much any soil, as long as it gets at least 5 hours of sunlight a day. The small, bright green heart-shaped leaves are super-pretty, too. Blue Waterfall Bellflower plants are available from Plant Addicts.

4. Firewitch Dianthus For a Small Garden

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Grows 4-8" high and 1' wide

Yes, small gardens need groundcover too! Firewitch dianthus makes for brilliant groundcover in a small garden as it’s incredibly well-behaved but works hard to form a dense, weed-blocking mat of pretty silvery-blue leaves. With a flurry of pink flowers all through spring and summer – and fall, if you shear off faded blooms – Dianthus gratianopolitanus was bred to give maximum color for minimum effort.

What’s more, the spicy, clove-like scent of the flowers is a wonderful addition to hot summer days, while the foliage is evergreen in most climates.

Each plant spreads to around a foot wide so, depending on the size of your border, you’ll need to add a few, and single and multi-pack Firewitch Dianthus plants are available from Fast Growing Trees.

5. Silvery Sunproof Liriope For Rippling Leaves

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 6-11
• Partial shade
• Grows 1-2’ high and wide

This variegated monkey grass forms clumps rather than spreads, so it makes excellent groundcover to underplant a border of bigger perennials or shrubs where controlling a more vigorous plant would be tricky. This drought-tolerant plant can even cope in dry shade once established, so it won’t mind a jot that trees and shrubs are sucking most of the moisture out of the soil.

The striped leaves are evergreen in most climates and, in midsummer, purple flower spikes add to the show and last through fall. Liriope ‘Silvery Sunproof’ plants are available from Nature Hillsand are tolerant of pollution so will thrive roadside, and is even rated as Firewise in several states. While monkey grass typically needs partial shade to thrive, this variety tolerates sunlight far better than most others.

6. Cool Wave Pansies For Instant Cheer

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

• All zones
• Full sun or partial shade
• 6-8" high and 24-30" wide

These little gems light up a tired border and don’t be fooled by the dainty, delicate appearance – they're tough cookies and bloom for months on end. In fact, this is one of the longest-blooming pansies available. While pansies are typically planted in patio pots and hanging baskets, this is a trailing variety so spreads to form groundcover in a border and quickly but politely fills gaps between bigger perennials. Pansies can be planted in summer in zones up to 9, so put this on your list of July garden jobs.

How Cool Wave pansies behave will depend on your climate, but they’re an excellent way to bridge the summer-to-fall gap in all zones. In zones 5 through 11 they’ll survive the winter: in zones 5-6, they’re dormant through winter but bounce back in spring; in zones 7-9, they’ll bloom pretty much continuously through all four seasons; in zones 10-11, wait for the intense heat of summer to pass before planting for endless cool-season flowers. In cooler zones 4 and below, treat these beauties as annuals and plant afresh each spring.

Pansies prefer cooler conditions and will fade in hot temperatures so, in a hotter zone, plant in a partially shady spot that doesn’t bake in the midday sun; in cooler zones, it’s fine in full sun.

Pansies can be challenging to grow from seed so it’s best to skip straight to the good bit with young plants. Cool Wave Morpho pansy plants are available from Burpee in a striking purple-blue and yellow combo, and the color intensifies as temperatures drop. Cool Wave Raspberry Swirl pansy plants are also available from Burpee, with a pretty mix of rosy, golden tones.

7. SunSparkler Dazzling Dynamite Sedum for Low Maintenance

(Image credit: Future/AI)

• Zones 4-9
• Full sun
• Grows 4-8" tall and 1-2' wide

If you want to add color to a border without upping the workload, Sedum ‘Dazzling Dynamite’ should be your go-to solution. This well-behaved low-growing perennial is extremely heat- and drought-tolerant once established, and while pollinators love it, deer typically don’t touch it. That burgundy-red foliage is vibrant enough on its own, but when topped with bright pink flowers through summer and fall, SunSparkler Dazzling Dynamite Sedum is a real showstopper.

Unlike some sedums that fade in summer heat, this keeps its color well, and Dazzling Dynamite plants are available from Nature Hills. The succulent leaves slowly spread to form a dense mat, even on poor soil, making this one of the most low-maintenance groundcover plants you can get.

You don’t want to be swatting flies constantly, but you also don’t want your patio to look like a bug research facility. The standard arsenal, i.e., zappers, sticky traps, and chemical sprays, is just not attractive, and that means gardeners are often forced to choose between enjoying their outdoor space and protecting it.

Luckily, you don’t have to make that choice, as there are 3 patio features that pull double duty so you barely notice the pest control side of things. For more on the most common flying pests you're likely to be dealing with this summer, check out our guide to the most common garden pests before you shop.

1. Pest-Repellent Container Plants

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

The easiest and prettiest solution to annoying bugs on a patio is also the most overlooked: the right plants, positioned in the right place, can act as a natural deterrent without a single spray or chemical in sight. Mosquitoes, flies, and wasps fly through their environment mostly by scent, and there are some plants with a smell that actively disrupts their ability to locate you.

Lavender, lemongrass, citronella geranium, rosemary, and basil are the heavy hitters. Planted in pots and placed close to seating areas, they release enough fragrance on a warm evening to make your patio way less appealing to anything that might want to sting or bite you. The effect is even stronger if you pinch a few leaves or even brush past them; this will cause the plants to release oils into the air around you.

The most important thing is placement. A single pot in the corner of the garden isn’t going to do much. You’ll need to cluster three or four aromatic plants close to where you sit and eat, and ideally create a small border around the area. You can even mix different species for more pest coverage: lemongrass targets mosquitoes, while lavender works on moths and flies, and rosemary deters cabbage moths and carrot flies in addition to general flying pests.

Mosquito Repellent Trio

Clovers Garden Mosquito Trio Nine (9) Mosquito Repellent Live Plants

This is 9 plants in total and covers 3 species, all grown in the Midwest, and ready to be potted or planted directly. You can put them together in a large container near a seating area or dot them around your patio for a fragrant display that is also highly practical.

Hidcote Lavender

Clovers Garden English Lavender Hidcote Blue – Two (2) Live Plants

These are the perfect companions to the citronella trio. The compact Hidcote Blue lavender at the end of a chair or along a path edge releases enough linalool on a warm summer evening to make your patio considerably less interesting to mosquitoes, moths, and flies.

2. Sheer Mosquito Net Curtains

(Image credit: MelanieMaya / Getty Images)

This is a patio feature that looks like it came straight from a resort in Bali. Plus, it happens to be one of the most effective physical barriers against flying insects available. Sheer mesh curtain panels hung from a pergola, gazebo, or porch roof create a sort of outdoor room that keeps mosquitoes, midges, and flies out while letting light, air, and the view completely through.

The visuals are actually super beautiful. The soft, billowing fabric creates a lovely light in the evening, a sense of enclosure that makes the space feel more intimate and designed, and as a bonus, provides privacy from neighbors. In reality, though, it's simply a curtain rod and some lightweight polyester mesh.

The real trick is the density of the mesh. Unfortunately, standard garden netting has holes large enough for small insects to pass through, but proper mosquito curtain fabric uses a tighter weave (around 970 holes per square inch) that blocks even the smallest flying pests while remaining breathable and see-through. Look for panels that are waterproof-coated so they survive a summer of outdoor use, machine washable, and are large enough to drape properly.

Outdoor Mosquito Net Curtains

RYB HOME Outdoor Mosquito Net for Porch or Patio

At nearly ten feet wide per pair and just over eight feet long, these waterproof mesh panels are large enough to properly enclose a pergola or porch opening without looking skimpy. The fine-density mesh blocks mosquitoes and flying insects while staying light and airy; they’re easy to hang on any standard outdoor curtain rod due to the pocket at the top, and the adjustable length means they can be trimmed to fit your space.

3. The Thermacell Patio Shield

This one doesn't look like much, but it packs a punch! It’s just a small, palm-sized device you place in the center of your table, but it's the closest thing to invisible pest control available. It works so well that it’s the go-to recommendation from outdoor entertaining professionals. The Thermacell Patio Shield uses a heat-activated repellent mat powered by a compact butane cartridge to diffuse a scent-free, DEET-free zone of mosquito protection fifteen feet in every direction. No smoke, no smell, no sprays, no visible effort. Simply set it in the middle of the table, wait fifteen minutes, and you’re good.

The reason it earns its place in a "beautiful patio features" list is precisely that it doesn't look like pest control. The brushed metal edition in particular looks like a small table accessory. It's the kind of thing your guests notice and ask about, not something you hide behind a citronella candle. The repellent mats change color when it's time to replace them, which is super handy, and each fuel cartridge runs for twelve hours.

Note: Position it upwind of where you're sitting for maximum effect; keep it away from strong breezes that reduce the protection zone. You can pair it with a border of lavender and lemongrass for a real pest management strategy.

Patio Shield Mosquito Repeller

Thermacell ZoneGuard Mosquito Repeller

The standard version at a lower price point comes with a fifteen-foot protection zone, heat-activated technology, and a 12-hour fuel cartridge included.

There is a brushed metal finish version available on the Thermacell website, and while it’s a little pricier, the aesthetic is well worth it.