Organic Gardening News

Jennifer Aniston, also known as Rachel from my favorite show, Friends, has one of the most famous homes/gardens on the internet right now. Rachel Green never had a garden, and Aniston is clearly making up for it. Really, this Bel Air property is having a moment; from the Japanese-inspired planting to the roses, people are trying to copy it in even the tiniest of spaces. But it’s her koi pond (pictured below) that is really doing some heavy lifting, especially when it comes to the Japanese aesthetic.

It’s the kind of feature that looks like it required some serious money and expertise, but it actually starts with one pretty straightforward question. As Kendahl Kreps, Director of Marketing at Oase North America, puts it: “Do you want fish?” Everything else follows from there.

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Start With the Right Questions

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Before even thinking about logistical questions like what size, depth, and budget you’re working with, it’s helpful to get clear about what exactly you want from a water feature. Kreps says to ask yourself, “What do I want from this? Sound? Aesthetics? Nature habitat? All of these things can help you decide what kind of water feature you should go with.”

Joe Zawistowski, founder of Black Koi Water Features and a certified Aquascape contractor with 25 years and over 300 ponds behind him, agrees: “A pond that fits your lifestyle is one you will enjoy for decades.”

If the answer is fish, you’ll want to head toward a proper koi pond. If it’s sound and movement without the maintenance commitment, a pondless waterfall delivers almost the same experience. “A pondless waterfall gives you the sight, sound, and planting of a full water feature without an open body of water,” says Zawistowski. “Most of the water sits invisibly in a buried reservoir under a floor of rocks, and the pump recirculates it continuously. No fish, almost no maintenance, and the footprint can be as small as ten by ten feet.”

The Non-Negotiables

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Two things you absolutely can’t compromise on when it comes to a koi pond are depth and filtration. Koi need a minimum of 18 inches (45 cm), but Zawistowski pushes for three feet (90cm): “Three feet eliminates successful heron hunting because herons wade to strike and can’t reach fish at that depth.”

Aiza, a sustainability writer at GreenerPulse, adds that depth also matters for temperature stability: “Shallow ponds heat up and cool down too fast, and the fish get stressed."

When it comes to filtration, every expert is on the same page. “Prioritize filtration,” says Jacob Romkee, landscape expert at Thumbtack. “A poor filtration system can undermine the whole project.” Aiza is equally direct: “The filter is the worst place to save money.”

Almost every first-time pond owner will encounter an algae problem. Kreps recommends a combined UV and mechanical filter system, like this TotalPond system on Amazon. She says, “UV bulbs and filter foams polish the water to make the fish look as if they are floating.”

If you don't have fish in your pond, a floating solar-powered fountain, like this Mademax design, is a simple, affordable way to add movement to the water. It can also help improve circulation and aeration, keeping the pond fresher and reducing stagnation.

Small Garden? No Problem

(Image credit: Future/Emma Kendell)

While you may think you need to have a full koi pond to get the same look as Jennifer Aniston, it’s actually not the only option. If you have a small space in an urban garden or patio, a container pond or raised feature can give you most of the same benefits. Romkee has seen genuinely creative approaches: “I’ve seen people turn bathtubs, hot tubs, tiered fountains, and even disguised kiddie pools into water features.”

Aiza and Zawistowski are quick to point out one big caveat, both claiming that a smaller water volume is much less forgiving. They tell me that temperature swings happen much faster and water quality can shift very quickly, so a container pond actually requires more attention and maintenance, not less, as you might assume.

Planting Around It

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Plants around the pond are essential to making it look embedded in the garden rather than simply dropped into it. Zawistowski uses marginal plants like iris and pickerelweed to soften the edges, water lilies to shade the surface and suppress algae, and, for the surrounding landscape, weeping and upright Japanese maples, catmint, ornamental Carex grass, and coneflowers.

Romkee adds ferns, Japanese iris, and creeping ground cover as strong options, with one firm disclaimer: “I’m much more cautious about bamboo because it’s so hard to get rid of once planted.”

Getting the Japanese Look

(Image credit: RHS/Tim Sandall)

Jennifer Aniston’s koi pond works so well because of the restraint she and her designer, Stephen Shadley, used. Kreps says, “An asymmetrical pond shape, a few carefully selected stones, controlled planting, and one strong focal element such as a bridge or sculptural rock.”

Aiza puts it even more simply: “Resist the urge to add three fountains.” Still water, well-placed stone, and a limited plant palette make a complete formula. The engineering, as Zawistowski says, should disappear entirely, “so the feature looks like natural erosion rather than something that arrived on a truck.”

Shop Pond Kits

Aquascape Aquagarden Mini Pond Kit

Trinx Aquagarden 50-Gal Resin Pond Kit

Smiley Scapes Water Garden Fountain Koi Pond Kit

I’m a big believer that you don’t have to spend much money to have a beautiful garden. I often repurpose containers and other household items outside, but one of my favorite ways to recycle is to return food waste to the earth. Each fall, I bury kitchen scraps in my empty raised beds using a mix of ingredients I’ve found that makes an ideal free soil improver. The scraps break down in place over winter, adding organic matter to the soil before spring planting.

This on-the-go trench composting method doesn't require a compost bin, but I keep a countertop caddy, similar to this best-selling Oxo Good Grips Bin on Amazon, in my kitchen and add suitable scraps as I go. Every few days, I empty it into a shallow trench in one of my beds, then move on to another spot. I keep going until the ground freezes.

My Soil Improver Recipe

You don’t need every ingredient in my mix; simply leave out anything you don’t have. I can’t recommend adding other ingredients in their place, though. Think of it as an easy, personal way to put kitchen scraps to work in the garden, rather than a precise recipe.

1. Fruit and Vegetable Scraps

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Fruit and vegetable scraps are the main ingredient and make up the bulk volume of the mix. I save things like banana, citrus, and cucumber peels, apple cores, carrot tops, and other uncooked trimmings. As they break down, they return organic matter and some of their nutrients to the soil.

I chop larger or tougher scraps into pieces about 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. Smaller pieces are easier to mix into the soil and should break down more readily. I avoid scraps covered in oil, sauce, or dressing, and I never add any meat, fish, bones, or dairy to the mix.

2. Used Coffee Grounds

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I add about 1 cup of used coffee grounds to a batch of scraps. Grounds contain small amounts of nutrients and organic compounds, but despite what you may have seen in viral gardening videos, they need time to break down before the bed is ready for planting.

I let the grounds cool first, then stir them through the scraps so they don’t clump together. I keep the amount modest: coffee grounds are best used in moderation.

3. Crushed Eggshells

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Eggshells are one of the most widely used food scraps in gardening. For my mix, I save the shells from a couple of eggs, rinse off any residue, let them dry, and crush them as finely as I can – with a blender or pestle and mortar, like this Gorilla Grip design on Amazon.

Eggshells contain calcium, although they break down slowly, so I don’t expect them to act like a quick calcium feed. I add them because they’re easy to save and can eventually become part of the soil.

Many gardeners also sprinkle eggshells around plants in the hope of deterring soft-bodied pests such as slugs. I don’t rely on them for pest control, though, so I crush mine and add them to the mix instead of scattering them around plants.

4. Oatmeal

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While not technically a scrap, I add a small handful of plain rolled oats – about ¼ cup – to my recipe. Oatmeal is grain-based, so it’ll break down into organic matter in the soil, adding lots of nutrients. Oats are also believed to help stimulate root growth, as they contain phosphorus and feed beneficial mycorrhizal fungi in the soil.

5. Cinnamon

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I add a little cinnamon to my mix for its much-touted properties as a natural fungicide, rooting hormone, and pest deterrent. These uses are popular with gardeners, although I wouldn’t rely on a small amount buried in the soil to solve an existing problem. You don’t need much – around ½ teaspoon is plenty for my mix.

6. Flat Beer

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If I have some flat beer left over, I add a small splash – about ½ cup – to my caddy. Beer contains yeast and other organic compounds, which is why some gardeners use it in compost or homemade plant feeds. I don't know whether it makes a measurable difference to my soil, so I wouldn't open a bottle specifically, but it’s a way to use up a little leftover beer rather than pour it down the drain.

When and How I Bury the Mix in Fall

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Once my caddy is at least half full, I take it out to an empty bed. I dig a trench about 12–18 inches (30–45 cm) deep, add the scraps, and mix them with some of the soil, then I fill the trench back in. I make sure the food waste is fully covered, with at least 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) of soil above it, so that it doesn't attract animal pests.

One key point is that I don’t try to fill the whole bed with one enormous batch. As a rough guide, I use about 1 gallon (4 L) of mixed scraps for each 4-by-4-foot (1.2-by-1.2-m) bed, spread along a short trench. If I have any leftovers, I bury the rest in another empty spot or save it for another trench. Alternatively, buy a cheap compost bin, like the Vevor small compost tumbler from Home Depot, and start building that up as you go.

The exact amount isn’t a strict recipe. I keep the layer of scraps fairly modest, chop everything small, and cover it well. I avoid digging close to established plants, whose roots could be disturbed, and don’t bury food waste in beds where I plan to plant immediately.

Balancing the Scraps

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Kitchen scraps are moist and break down more easily when mixed with some dry material. If I have them, I add a couple of handfuls of shredded leaves to my trench batch. They contribute carbon and help keep the scraps from clumping together.

I sometimes add a small handful of fresh grass clippings, too. They’re nitrogen-rich, but I use them sparingly and mix them through the scraps and leaves so they don’t form a dense, soggy layer. Both additions are optional home composting extras: I just use what’s available in the garden.

What I Do in Spring

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By spring, the scraps will have had several months to break down. When I’m ready to plant, I check the area first. If I can still see recognizable pieces, I leave that part of the bed alone for a little longer and plant elsewhere. If the soil looks settled and the scraps have mostly disappeared, I loosen the surface and get the bed ready for planting.

I don’t expect this one mix to replace compost or a soil test, and I don’t use it as a precise fertilizer. For me, it’s a simple way to make use of kitchen leftovers and add them back to an empty garden bed while there’s time for them to break down before spring.

Is there anything more magical than spotting a bright red cardinal among the branches of your backyard?

Honestly, I'm not so sure that there is; there's a reason we all love these beautifully vibrant birds so much, and it's not just because they've become synonymous with the holidays (a study back in 2022 determined that 34% of the birds featured on Christmas cards are cardinals, if you don't believe me!). They are laden with symbolism, and many believe that if they're the first bird you spot on January 1st, you're owed 12 months of love, hope, optimism, and good luck for the year ahead.

Now, these beautiful songbirds are year-round residents across much of the eastern and central United States, and with the right planting choices, you can make your garden a more inviting place for them to visit. So, how best to go about it?

The Best Plants To Attract Cardinals

The secret to charming these birds into your yard? Think beyond bird feeders and give cardinals more of what they naturally need: food, shelter, and places to nest.

Now, cardinals eat a varied diet of seeds, fruit, and insects, and they particularly favor gardens with plenty of dense vegetation where they can hide from predators and forage safely. All of which means that, if you're hoping to welcome more of these ruby-red visitors to your yard this season, these three trees are a great place to start.

Shop Plants To Attract Cardinals:

Nature Hills Nursery White Flowering Dogwood

Proven Winners La Vida Más® Indian Hawthorn

Nature Hills Nursery Louisa Flowering Crabapple Tree

1. Hawthorn

(Image credit: Volodymyr Chmut / Getty Images)

If you want to make your garden more appealing to cardinals, hawthorn is a great tree to consider. Depending on the species, these trees produce small fruits often called haws, which can provide food for birds into the cooler months. Their dense, sometimes thorny branches also offer useful shelter for wildlife.

Hawthorns can be particularly valuable in a wildlife-friendly garden because they provide more than one benefit. Their flowers attract insects, their fruits feed birds, and their branching structure offers places to perch and hide.

When choosing a hawthorn, look for a species suited to your local growing conditions and available space. Native varieties are especially worth considering because they can support a wider range of local wildlife, although the La Vida Más® Indian Hawthorn from Nature Hills is an undeniably spectacular option if you are in the mood for endless clusters of pink flowers (and how could you not be?).

2. Crabapple

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Crabapple trees are another excellent option for a cardinal-friendly garden. Their spring blossoms bring seasonal color, while the small fruits that follow can become an important food source for birds in fall and winter.

The fruits of some crabapple varieties persist on the tree after the leaves have dropped, creating a welcome food source when other options become scarcer. The branches also offer perching spots and can contribute to the layered structure that makes a backyard more attractive to birds.

For the best wildlife value, choose something like the Louisa Weeping Crabapple Tree from Nature Hills. It has the added benefit of being stunning, too!

3. Dogwood

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Dogwood is a particularly good choice if you're looking for a plant that combines ornamental appeal with wildlife benefits. Many dogwoods produce berries that cardinals and other fruit-eating birds enjoy, and Cornell's Lab of Ornithology specifically lists dogwood among the fruits eaten by cardinals, too!

Depending on the species, dogwoods can grow as small trees or shrubs, making them useful for gardens of different sizes. Their seasonal flowers, foliage, and fruits can provide interest throughout the year, while their branching growth helps create cover for all visiting birds (very likely including your own birth month bird in the mix).

For a particularly wildlife-friendly planting, look into native dogwood species that are well suited to your region. Personally, I love the White Flowering Dogwood from Nature Hills.

Other Ways To Keep Cardinals Happy:

Kaytee Kaytee Cardinal Seed Cake

Birdfy Bird House With Camera

Feeding in Style

Sweetfull Sweetfull Solar Bird Feeder

Planting these trees can help, but the best cardinal-friendly gardens offer more than fruit alone. Cardinals are especially fond of dense shrubs and tangled vegetation, which provide shelter from predators and suitable nesting locations, and they also need a reliable source of water.

Finally, try to choose plants native to your region and avoid pesticides wherever possible. A diverse garden with food available across different seasons is more likely to support birds and other wildlife over the long term, after all! Still, with hawthorn, crabapple, and dogwood in the mix, you can create a backyard that looks beautiful through the seasons while offering cardinals more reasons to stop by.

If that's not an excuse to get growing, I don't know what is!

True lilies are some of the most striking, fragrant, and elegant flowers in the garden. As fall continues, those magnificent blooms may fade, but underground, their leaves and bulbs are working overtime to prepare for winter. October is a critical time when lily bulbs are drawing in late-season nutrients, developing healthy roots, and storing vital energy to push up towering stems next year.

Before diving into autumn chores, make sure you clarify which type of lily you need to care for, and distinguish true lilies (Lilium) from daylilies (Hemerocallis). Daylilies grow from dense, fibrous roots and die back quickly, while true lilies grow from fleshy bulbs. These fall tasks focus on early-blooming Asiatic hybrids, fragrant Oriental lilies (like 'Stargazer'), majestic Trumpet lilies, and robust Orienpet (OT) hybrids.

These simple October tasks outlined here ensure maximum winter survival, smart disease resistance, and better flower development next time. Because most true lilies are cold-hardy, they can remain safely in the ground (just a few tender types, or lilies in very cold climates, benefit from winter storage). By giving your lily beds a little expert attention now, you set the stage for an explosive, colorful display next year.

Best Lily Care in October

Before getting stuck into lily care, give some thought to your USDA hardiness zone and climate, as well as specific varieties. Because specific lily classes mature at different rates through late summer, individual plants in borders may sit at varying stages of dormancy in October. Early Asiatic varieties may have dropped their leaves weeks ago, while tall Oriental and Orienpet hybrids might hold green foliage into fall.

In addition to managing existing lily beds, October is a great time to introduce new lily bulbs. Soil temperatures remain warm enough for fresh roots to establish before deep winter freezes arrive. At the same time, growers in severe northern climates (zones 2–3) or those growing tender, exotic species like Formosa lilies can lift and store bulbs for protection.

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It’s a good idea to invest in a soil probe that can give you a reliable idea of light and moisture levels in the ground at this time. A diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter, available from Amazon, can give you a heads-up about conditions around your lilies before you start. Checking can help you clarify root moisture, soil pH, and temperature levels before you mulch or plant new bulbs.

Whether you are tending established clumps, adding new varieties, or lifting tender bulbs for winter, these simple October tasks will ensure your lilies transition smoothly into dormancy. Following these quick checks this month gives you the best preparation for healthier plants and bigger blooms next summer.

1. Remove Dead Seed Heads and Leaves

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Removing spent plant material is important for maintaining a tidy bed but also for plant health and preventing infections. Fallen leaves and spent lily foliage can harbor destructive fungal spores, most notably lily blight, as well as other pathogens. Collect and dispose of yellowing or dropped leaves as they loosen from the main stems. Any foliage showing dark spots, water-soaked streaks, or powdery mildew should be bagged and placed in the trash (not the compost pile) to prevent spreading disease.

Additionally, snip off any seed heads that form after flowering finishes. Unless you are intentionally saving seed for propagation, developing seed pods drain massive amounts of energy away from the bulb. Removing seed capsules redirects resources back down into the bulb, strengthening reserves for winter. Always use clean, sharp snips when removing seed heads, and wipe down the blades before and after use. Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Neem Oil Spray, available from Walmart, is great for sanitizing tool blades as well as treating beds against fungal spores.

2. Check Plants for Pests and Diseases

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This is an excellent opportunity to check remaining stems and leaf joints for signs of damage or insect activity, like spots or holes. Aphids, red lily leaf beetles, and scale insects frequently deposit overwintering eggs close to the soil line. Removing old stem tissue and clearing away leaf clutter can eliminate cozy pest harbors. To help you get a closer look, grab a magnifying glass or a loupe like the Carson LumiLoupe 10x Stand Magnifier from Amazon. This can help assess leaves or bulb scales for hidden mites, thrips, or early fungal rot.

If you are dividing or lifting tender varieties for indoor storage, inspect bulbs closely. Healthy lily bulbs should feel firm, plump, and heavy, with crisp white, yellow, or pinkish scales. Discard any that feel soft, squishy, or show signs of blue mold or basal rot. If you notice rot in multiple bulbs, it might be a sign of poor soil drainage. Correct this in October by working some coarse grit or perlite into the planting area.

3. Trim Back Faded Plants

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While it is tempting to clear away all stems early to keep beds tidy, patience is essential – and timing is crucial. As long as a lily stem holds green leaves, it is actively performing photosynthesis, converting sunlight into carbohydrates and pumping energy down into the bulb. So while parts of the plant are working, it’s best to leave lilies as long as they are healthy. Cutting back green stems prematurely starves the bulb, resulting in stunted growth and fewer flowers the following season.

Wait until the foliage has turned yellow, brown or papery before cutting back. Once the stem is fully dead, use bypass pruners to cut the stalk down to about 2-3 inches (5-8cm) above the ground. Leaving a short stem stub helps mark the bulb's location. Dispose of dead stalks promptly, as hollow, decaying stems left standing over winter make ideal overwintering sites for pests and spores. After cutting back, add a gentle organic phosphorus booster to the soil. A little Down to Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s around trimmed bases can encourage root development.

4. Lift Tender Bulbs and Plant New Bulbs

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This is a chore many gardeners can skip, as most lilies are hardy in most areas of North America. Asiatic, Oriental, and Trumpet lilies are hardy in zones 4-9, but if you are in zones 2-3 or growing tender exotic species, it’s smart to lift bulbs in October. Once foliage dies back, carefully lift using a garden fork, taking care not to nick the bulbs. Brush off loose soil and allow the bulbs to air-dry in a cool room for 24 hours. Store them in cardboard boxes layered with slightly damp peat moss, wood shavings or vermiculite. Keep in a cool, dark location, around 40-45°F (4-7°C).

October is also a great time to plant new hardy lilies. Autumn soil retains summer warmth, allowing fresh bulbs to build strong root systems. Plant bulbs pointy side up at a depth 2-3 times the height of the bulb, 6-8 inches (15-20cm) deep. Choose a sunny site with well-draining soil, mixing a little organic compost or bone meal into the bottom of the hole. Add a gentle root tonic rather than a heavy dedicated feed. Go for a light soil drench with a seaweed or kelp tonic like GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp from Walmart. This is rich in trace minerals to help develop roots.

5. Apply Mulch and Mark Locations

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Bulbs that stay in the ground over winter benefit from a little protection, even if they are hardy in your growing zone. Mulching insulates the soil, moderates temperature changes, and reduces the risk of frost-related damage. Once beds are cleared and trimmed, apply a layer of mulch. If you’re looking for a great mulch for lilies, I recommend Back to the Roots Organic Premium Wood Mulch from Amazon. This dye-free organic bark mulch insulates bulbs, while suppressing early weeds. You can also use shredded bark, evergreen boughs or clean straw.

As well as insulating the soil against temperature swings, mulching prevents damage by freeze-thaw cycles. These can cause frost heaving, which is where shifting soil pops bulbs up to the surface. Wait until the ground cools down (or after the first hard freeze) before applying a 2-4-inch (5-10cm) blanket of your mulch. Don’t pack it too tightly or thickly, though, as this can trap moisture over the bulbs.

Finally, be sure to mark the exact locations of your buried lily bulbs. True lilies emerge relatively late in spring, and it is dangerously easy to forget exactly where they are and to slice through dormant bulbs in spring. Drive durable wooden or plastic garden stakes into the ground besides your trimmed stem stubs or fresh plantings. Taking a quick photo on your smartphone can also help to create a visual map that prevents accidental digging when spring arrives.

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These well-timed tasks will help your lily bulbs survive the winter and thrive next spring with vigorous growth and abundant, majestic blooms. The most important priorities are to leave green foliage intact until it dies back naturally, clear away dead plant debris, and protect underground bulbs while ensuring excellent soil drainage for any additions. Take a little time to tend your lily beds well this fall, and you can enjoy an unforgettable display of lovely lilies next summer.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

By mid-October, many tomato plants look pretty rough, with yellowing leaves, a few stubborn green fruits, and stems flopping over their cages. The easy move is to yank the whole mess out and drag it to the trash or the compost pile. Before you do, though, there’s some useful work hiding in those tired plants.

Good end-of-season tomato plant care starts with a close look at what you’re pulling. Some vines can feed next year’s garden as compost, and the best fruit can give you free seed. Others may carry diseases you don’t want to spread around the yard or carry over into next summer.

That’s the main thing to keep in mind as you work. Healthy tomato plants can usually go in the compost, while diseased ones should be bagged and disposed of according to your local guidance. Nearly every other job, from saving seeds to cleaning cages, depends on knowing which kind of plants you have.

1. Check Plants Carefully for Disease

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Walk the row slowly and look at leaves, stems, and fruit before a single plant comes out. A few problems should never go into a typical home compost pile. Late blight (Phytophthora infestans) is one, and the bacterial tomato diseases are others, including bacterial spot (Xanthomonas spp.) and bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis), which can survive in plant debris. Mosaic viruses are worse still – tobacco and tomato mosaic viruses can hang on in dried plant debris for years. Most backyard piles never get hot enough, evenly enough, to kill these organisms. Bag those plants and get rid of them according to your local rules, and do the same with any plant that’s heavily infested with pests.

2. Save Seeds from Your Best Tomatoes

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Seed saving only works with open-pollinated or heirloom varieties – hybrids won’t come true to type, so an F1 tomato’s seeds can give you something quite different next year. Pick fully ripe fruit from your healthiest, best-tasting plants and scoop the seeds and gel into a glass jar with a little water. Stir it twice a day for up to about five days, until it ferments and the good seeds sink. Pour off the floaters, rinse what’s left in something like the Farberware fine mesh strainers from Walmart, and dry the seeds on a coffee filter or paper plate.

Once a fingernail can’t dent them, they’re ready for labeled paper envelopes; the Lotmer seed-saving envelopes from Amazon are printed with seed name, variety, date collected, and growing notes. Kept cool, dry, and dark, tomato seed usually stays good for about four years.

3. Take Healthy Cuttings Before Frost

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This one’s optional, but if there’s a variety you loved this year, you can carry it through the winter indoors. Pick a few healthy side shoots about 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) long and snip them off with clean pruners – Fiskars' bypass pruning shears, available on Amazon, are a great budget-friendly pick if you need a new pair.

Cuttings will usually root in a plain jar of water, as long as the cut ends sit 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) under the surface and the jar stays somewhere cool and bright. Once roots show up, pot them and give them all the light you can. Don’t put this off until after a hard frost has already hit the garden.

Leave out any plant that had disease problems, and viruses in particular, since a cutting can carry them along from the parent.

4. Compost Healthy Plants the Right Way

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Healthy vines are worth composting, but toss them on the pile whole, and they’ll take ages to rot. Chop them into short lengths first – 8–12 inches (20–30cm) or so – because smaller pieces break down faster. It also pays to strip off any leftover tomatoes. Seeds can make it through a backyard pile in one piece, and you may find volunteers popping up next summer.

Layer the chopped vines with dry leaves or other brown material. A compost bin like the Redmon 65-gallon compost bin from Walmart keeps it all corralled.

If you’re on the fence about whether a plant was healthy, use that compost away from where tomatoes will grow. Healthy potting mix from containers can go on the pile, too, so dump those pots before you stack them for winter.

5. Remove the Roots (or Leave Them?)

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For plants that stayed healthy all season, there’s a good case for leaving the roots in the ground. Just cut the stems off at the soil line, and the roots will break down in place, adding organic matter without much soil disturbance. A plant that wilted, stunted, or yellowed for no clear reason is another story. Loosen the root ball with a spading fork, like Home Depot’s Ames 4-tine forged spading fork. You’re looking for knotty swellings on the roots, a sign of root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.).

Remove infested roots soon after harvest and leave them out of the garden. The same goes for plants with Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. lycopersici), which can persist in soil for many years. In containers, tip the root ball out and check it the same way.

6. Clean and Disinfect Cages, Stakes and Supports

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Some disease organisms ride along on tomato supports. Bacterial canker can persist on stakes, and mosaic viruses can last weeks to months on stakes and trellises. Knock off the dirt first, then scrub or hose them down, since soil blocks disinfectants. Then soak them fully in a 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) for at least 20 minutes.

Rather skip the bleach? ZeroTol 2.0, an OMRI-listed hydrogen peroxide product sold on Amazon, is labeled for hard, nonporous surfaces like metal cages and tools. Wooden stakes are trickier – bacteria can hide in the wood – so toss any that held canker-infected plants. Plastic pots can get the same bleach soak, followed by a good rinse.

7. Recharge the Bed for Next Year

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Bare soil over winter is a missed opportunity. Winter rye is very cold-tolerant and grows in cool weather. In mid-October, it’s still an option in many areas, as long as you sow it at least four weeks before steady cold sets in. You’ll find Mountain Valley Seed winter rye on Amazon in a 5-pound bag on Amazon. Mow it in spring before it sets seed, then turn it under two to four weeks before planting.

If it’s too late for a cover crop, spread compost such as Back to the Roots organic compost, available from Home Depot, or a blanket of shredded leaves, instead. Next year’s tomatoes should go somewhere else, too – keep tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and potatoes out of that spot for three to four years. For containers, reuse potting mix only if the plants stayed healthy, and replace the top 6 inches (15 cm) in big pots with fresh mix.

Your Post-Harvest Tomato Checklist

Once the last tomatoes are picked, here’s the whole job in short form. Pin it somewhere you’ll see it, because October tends to get busy.

• Look over every plant for disease before anything gets pulled.
• Bag blighted, bacterial or virus-infected plants, and compost only the healthy ones.
• Save seed from your best open-pollinated or heirloom tomatoes.
• If you want a head start, root a few healthy side shoots indoors before frost.
• Chop healthy vines and pick off leftover fruit before they hit the compost.
• Dig up and check the roots of any plant that wilted or struggled.
• Scrub and disinfect cages, stakes and pots before storing them.
• Sow winter rye, add compost or mulch the bed with leaves.
• Pick a new spot for next year’s tomatoes.

It's that time of year that sees them pop up all over the place, but did you know you have a birth month mushroom?

Yes, mushrooms might not be the first thing that springs to mind when you think about personality (indeed, many of us tend to think about them in terms of how best to remove these fungi from our garden), but these fascinating plants have plenty of character.

From patterned caps peeking through woodland leaves to clusters of mushrooms growing on fallen logs, they come in an extraordinary range of shapes, sizes and colors. Some are easy to grow at home, while others are the sort of unexpected find that can make an ordinary walk feel a little more magical. And some are, of course, killers in disguise.

So, which best represents you?

All 12 Birth Month Mushrooms

If you've already explored your birth month bird, birth month animal, and birth month bug, you might think you've covered all the ways to find a nature-inspired match for your birthday. Mushrooms, though, are here to prove that wrong.

We've picked 12 mushrooms, one for every month, taking inspiration from fungi you might encounter in the wild across the US and UK, alongside varieties you can grow at home. From springtime morels to fall's woodland favorites and a wonderfully pink number, each has something special to recommend it.

So, which mushroom matches your birth month? Read on to discover your fungi counterpart, learn a little about where it grows and find out whether your match is a familiar woodland sight or a colorful variety you could try cultivating yourself (hey, there's a reason the Back to the Roots Organic Oyster Mushroom Grow Kit is so popular!). Just remember that wild mushrooms can be difficult to identify, and some poisonous species resemble edible ones, so enjoy them with your eyes unless you're certain of their identity.

January – Velvet Shank

(Image credit: Education Images / Contributor/Getty Images)

January personalities are known for their determination and ability to keep going when the going gets tough. The velvet shank (Flammulina velutipes) makes a fitting birth month mushroom, then: this golden-orange mushroom can fruit in cold weather, often appearing in clusters on dead wood when many other fungi are less conspicuous.

Its ability to flourish through winter makes it a little symbol of perseverance. Pretty sweet going for a little mushi!

February – Turkey Tail

(Image credit: SOPA Images / Contributor /Getty Images)

February's imaginative side finds its match in turkey tail (Trametes versicolor). Its overlapping fans can display beautiful bands of cream, brown, grey and other colors, making every cluster look like a tiny natural artwork. It grows on dead wood and is a lovely reminder that creativity can be found in unexpected places. It's a fungi match with plenty of visual personality.

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Workman Publishing How to Forage for Mushrooms Without Dying: an Absolute Beginner's Guide to Identifying 29 Wild, Edible Mushrooms

VylerSky Vylersky Foraging Bag - Mushroom Foraging Kit With Bag and Knife, Great for Mushroom Decor Lovers

DRACHENADER Drachenader Mushroom Knife With Brush, Folding Foraging Knife

March – Scarlet Elf Cup

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Quietly striking rather than showy, the scarlet elf cup (Sarcoscypha species) is a lovely match for March. Its vivid red cups often appear among moss and leaf litter on fallen twigs in woodland, bringing a flash of color to the early-year landscape.

Oh sure, you might have to look carefully to spot this birth month mushroom out and about in the wild, but that is part of its charm: a little beauty for those who take the time to notice!

April – Morel

(Image credit:  Sotis G / 500px / Getty Images)

With its unmistakable honeycomb-like cap, the morel (Morchella species) certainly knows how to make an entrance! These sought-after spring mushrooms have an unusual appearance that makes them stand out from the crowd, just like April's bold, energetic personalities.

Morels can be found in parts of the US and UK in spring, although their appearance depends on local conditions. They're fascinating to spot, but never eat a wild mushroom without reliable expert identification: false morels can be dangerous.

May – Dryad's Saddle

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May's dependable personality pairs nicely with dryad's saddle (Cerioporus squamosus), a large fungus that grows on tree trunks and fallen wood. Its broad cap has distinctive dark scales, giving it a sturdy, earthy appearance.

Often seen in spring, it's the sort of birth month mushroom that rewards a closer look at the trees around you, making it a lovely match for someone who likes to keep their feet firmly on the ground.

Shop And Grow Your Own Mushrooms:

Heart Light

Back to the Roots Back to the Roots Organic Mini Mushroom Grow Kit

The Night-Blooming Beauty

NuBlume Bloombox Blue Oyster Mushroom Grow Kit

Woodland Shimmer

North Spore North Spore Pink Oyster Mushroom Growing Kit

June – Shiitake

(Image credit: Gray Wagtail / Shutterstock)

Shiitake (Lentinula edodes) is obviously the birth month mushroom for sensitive and sociable June babies. Its rich brown caps and familiar place in kitchens around the world give it a comforting, approachable quality.

Unlike mushrooms that are mainly discovered in the wild, shiitake can be cultivated on suitable hardwood logs or growing blocks, making it an interesting choice for anyone curious about growing their own food. And a mushroom that brings people together over a good meal? Yeah, that feels just right for June.

July – Golden Chanterelle

(Image credit: Karl Ander Adami/Getty Images)

The golden chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius) is a cheerful match for July, as its warm yellow-orange color and gently wavy shape make it one of the most recognisable mushrooms for experienced nature-watchers.

It can be found in suitable woodland habitats during warmer months. Chanterelles grow in association with trees, making them part of a much bigger woodland relationship. That connection to the surrounding ecosystem makes this a fitting birth month mushroom for someone who values family, friendship and looking after their own.

August – Chicken of the Woods

(Image credit: Arterra/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)

Few birth month mushrooms are as weirdly wonderful as chicken of the woods (Laetiporus sulphureus). Its brilliant orange and yellow shelves can stand out dramatically against a tree trunk, making it a natural choice for August's confident and charismatic personalities.

This striking fungus is found in parts of the US and UK, often on trees or dead wood. It's an attention-grabbing sight, and a reminder that nature doesn't always need a delicate touch to be beautiful.

September – Porcini

(Image credit: Stefano Guidi/Getty Images)

September's practical and detail-oriented personalities are well represented by porcini (Boletus edulis), also known as – and get ready for the cutest name ever – penny bun. Beneath its rounded brown cap is a thick, solid stem, giving this birth month mushroom a robust appearance.

Porcini are associated with trees and are prized by experienced foragers and cooks. Finding them requires patience and attention to habitat, which makes this an apt match for people who like to do their homework before getting started. (You can also buy Porcini Mushrooms Spores from Amazon if you're interested).

October – Pink Oyster

(Image credit: lovelypeace/Getty Images)

I might be biased, but I love that October gets the most colorful match of all: the pink oyster mushroom (Pleurotus djamor). Its vivid pink and overlapping caps look almost too bright to be real, making it a wonderfully unexpected addition to the list.

Pink oysters are commonly grown at home in gourmet mushroom kits, but they prefer warmth and are less suited to cold outdoor conditions than grey oyster varieties. Their unusual color makes them a natural conversation starter, just like October's charming and people-savvy personalities.

November – Amethyst Deceiver

(Image credit: efenzi/Getty Images)

Alright, fine; I love the birth month mushroom for October, but this one is a true stunner! Still, with its rich violet coloring, the amethyst deceiver (Laccaria amethystina) is a natural fit for November's mysterious streak.

It can be found in woodland, where its small purple caps stand out against fallen leaves and dark soil. Its color may become less vivid as it ages, which only adds to its elusive reputation, and making it a perfect match for anyone who has a passionate side that not everyone gets to see straight away.

December – Shaggy Inkcap

(Image credit: imageBROKER/Sunshine Seeds/Getty Images)

December's birth month mushroom is the shaggy inkcap (Coprinus comatus), a distinctive mushroom with a tall white cap covered in – unsurprisingly, given its name – shaggy scales.

It can appear in grass, parks and disturbed ground, making it a potential find on an everyday walk rather than only deep in the woods. As it matures, its cap darkens and dissolves into an inky liquid – a surprisingly dramatic transformation for such an unassuming-looking mushroom, and making it well suited to our adventurous and slightly quirky babies born at the end of the year.

Of course, there's no scientific link between your birthday and a particular fungus, but that doesn't mean we can't have a little fun(gi) finding meaning in our birth month mushrooms, right down to their distinctive appearances and growing habits.

Whether yours is the sort that thrives in challenging condition, or a colorful attention-grabbing variety, there's meaning to be found in the world, wherever you look for it. And hey, if it means we have a unique mushi to call our own? So be it!

In most gardens, October is a pivotal transition period for perennials as they go from active growing and flowering to winter dormancy. As early-season bloomers, irises can look pretty tired by fall, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need care.

October iris care is all about preparing plants for dormancy and ensuring they’ll emerge healthy and flowering next spring. From preventing rot to managing pests and diseases, good care now ensures healthier growth next year.

Here, we’ll focus on October chores for bearded irises, the most commonly grown type, with notes on how care differs for Siberian and Japanese irises. Essential fall care includes trimming foliage, cleaning up around plants, dividing as needed, and managing mulch appropriately by iris type.

1. Trim Back Declining Foliage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Depending on where you live and garden, some or all of your iris foliage will be giving up the game by now. Much of the foliage will be yellow or dying. Use clean, sharp shears to remove spent leaves. For precise trimming around healthy foliage, try the Fiskars Titanium Micro-Tip Pruning Shears, available at Home Depot. Their narrow blades make it easier to snip away dying leaves without damaging neighboring growth.

In general, trim established plants back to about six to eight inches (15 to 20 cm). Leaving leaves intact can cause winter damage that collapses onto the rhizomes, increasing the risk of rot.

Leave any healthy green leaves intact, as they are still photosynthesizing and gathering energy for the plant to use next year. In milder climates, you might still see a lot of green leaves, so you’ll need to delay trimming until the plant has more yellowing leaves.

2. Clear out Garden Debris

(Image credit: Samantha Locking / Getty Images)

It’s very important to remove debris from around and under your irises before winter. Remove all fallen and dead leaves, stems, weeds, and other plant material and compost it, or, if diseased, dispose of it in the garbage.

This chore is crucial because leftover material can increase the risk of plants getting diseases or being infested with pests later. The iris borer lays eggs in dead foliage, which overwinter there and hatch in the spring. Removing debris also opens up airflow, reducing the risk of fungal infections.

If iris borers have been a problem in your garden, make a note to tackle them again in spring. A spinosad-based insecticide, such as Bonide Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew, available on Amazon, can help control newly hatched larvae before they burrow into the plants. Apply when new iris shoots reach around 4–6 inches tall (10–15 cm).

3. Check Rhizomes for Rot

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bearded irises store energy in fleshy rhizomes near the soil surface. They may rot if moisture levels are too high. It’s a good idea to check for and manage any areas of rot on rhizomes now, so they don’t get worse over winter. Brush back the soil from the tops of the rhizomes and inspect them for spots that look soft, mushy, or dark, or that have a bad smell.

Use a sharp, clean garden knife to cut out rotten areas until you reach healthy, firm rhizome tissue. A tool such as the Fiskars Big Grip Garden Knife, available at Amazon, is also handy for carefully lifting affected rhizomes to inspect them more closely. Disinfect the blade between cuts to avoid spreading infection. If a rhizome is severely rotted, it’s usually best to remove and discard it.

If you find a lot of rot, check drainage around the plants and make sure water isn’t pooling. Japanese and Siberian irises also grow from rhizomes, but these are generally less exposed than those of bearded irises. You can still check around the crowns for signs of rot or damage caused by excessive moisture.

4. Divide and Replant Irises

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Fall is generally a good time to divide bearded irises. However, October might be too late in some areas. In milder climates (zones 7 to 9), you can divide irises now. In colder areas, October is likely too late to move irises and expect them to establish before winter.

If you are dividing an iris now, lift the clumps carefully. A sturdy digging tool, such as the Radius Garden Root Slayer Shovel, available at Home Depot, has a serrated blade that makes it easier to dig around dense, established clumps. Take care not to damage the rhizomes as you lift them. Separate the rhizomes, ensuring each one has a healthy fan of leaves. Plant the divisions in suitable areas right away, making sure they have good drainage and that the rhizomes remain near the surface. Siberian and Japanese irises are best divided in spring.

If it’s too late to make divisions now, you can still plan ahead by identifying large clumps that could benefit from a spring division. Target bearded iris clumps that are spreading into dense patches, have a bare center, or have not produced as many flowers as in previous years.

Label or photograph the clumps you plan to target in spring, so you don’t forget. It’s not always easy to identify the overgrown irises in spring. The best time to divide next year is after flowering.

A little fall care goes a long way toward establishing healthy, flowering irises in spring. It’s easy to forget these early bloomers come fall, but don’t make the mistake of ignoring them. Irises need fall care to ease their way into winter in good health.

5. Avoid Mulching, or Mulch Lightly

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bearded irises are different from many perennials in that they generally should not be mulched over in winter. The rhizomes need to remain near the soil surface and slightly exposed to air and sunlight to stay dry and avoid rotting. Never cover them in heavy layers of mulch or compost.

If you have very cold winters, you can apply a thin layer of more breathable mulch to prevent frost heaving. Use pine needles or clean straw, like CleanStraw Longleaf Pine Straw Mulch from Walmart. Other types of irises can benefit from a more typical layer of mulch to retain moisture and as protection against cold.

6. Stop Feeding and Adjust Watering

(Image credit: Дмитрий Куруллин / Alamy)

Growth is slowing and stopping this time of year as irises prepare for winter dormancy. This means they no longer need fertilizer. Stop feeding irises now to avoid promoting fresh new growth that will only expend energy and freeze in winter.

You can also slow down your watering routine as temperatures drop, especially if your area is getting more rain. Rather than following a fixed schedule, check the soil every few days for moisture and water as needed. A Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available at Amazon, can help you monitor moisture levels and avoid overwatering. Newly transplanted divisions will need more consistent moisture as they establish roots, but take care not to leave the soil waterlogged.

Iris Care Essentials

Bonide Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew

Fiskars Big Grip Multi-purpose Garden Knife

Cleanstraw Longleaf Pine Straw Mulch

Thanksgiving falls reliably on the fourth Thursday of November, year after year. However, if you want your home filled with vibrant blooms right as the turkey hits the dining table, the most important month to give your Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) love and care is October.

Despite its name, the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) bears little resemblance to desert-dwelling cacti like the towering saguaros of the American southwest. It’s got no spines at all and wouldn’t survive a day in a hot, dry desert. These plants are tropical epiphytes, native to the coastal rainforests of southeastern Brazil. Its flattened, arching green stems feature pointed, claw-like serrations along the segment margins, giving rise to its popular nickname, the claw cactus.

But the true magic of this plant lies in its vibrant flowers, erupting in radiant shades of red, magenta, soft pink, coral-orange, pure white, and gold. Yes, the plant typically blooms from mid-November to early December. Still, you only get those pretty blooms next month if you devote a little time to their care this month. By making a few simple adjustments to light exposure, night temperatures, watering and feeding now, you guarantee a breathtaking holiday display that lasts for weeks.

Thanksgiving Cactus Care in October

October is a transitional bridge for indoor houseplants, as outdoor temperatures decline and home heating systems kick on across most northern regions. For your Thanksgiving cactus, this month represents a delicate shift, as active leafy vegetative growth halts and reproductive bud development takes over. While vivacious cultivars like White Christmas, Samba Brazil and Madame Butterfly offer distinct bloom colors and stem habits, they all share a few key care needs.

If your plant spent the summer vacationing on a shaded porch or patio, early October is the time to bring it indoors before night temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C). Depending on your USDA hardiness zone, the next few days are critical. While southern areas may have a little latitude, in chillier northern areas a couple of days of sharp temperature slides can have a massive impact.

(Image credit: Elena Grishina / Alamy)

A quick check of holiday houseplants now prevents environmental shock when transitioning them indoors. However, even if your cactus has spent the summer indoors, this is still a vital time to make adjustments. Before you get stuck into key container care such as light exposure and watering, it’s a good idea to invest in a soil probe that can give you a reliable idea of light and moisture levels. I’d recommend getting hold of a diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon, which can give you a solid heads-up about where your plant is at before you start.

1. Balance Light and Dark Needs

(Image credit: Евгения Матвеец / Getty Images)

Controlling light exposure in October is the single most important factor for triggering heavy flower bud formation. Thanksgiving cactuses are short-day (long-night) plants. During the day, position your cactus in a location that receives bright, filtered indirect sunlight. An unobstructed east or north-facing window sill is ideal. Avoid harsh, direct afternoon sun through south or west-facing glass, which scorches the flat green stem pads and turns them a stressed, purplish-red color.

Daytime light is only half the equation. Long dark nights are what induce flowering. To initiate flower buds, these plants require 12-14 hours of uninterrupted darkness every night for roughly 6 weeks. Even tiny bursts of artificial ambient light from living room lamps or passing streetlights can reset the plant's internal clock and stop bud formation. If needs be, gently move your cactus into a dark closet or cover it with a breathable cardboard box every evening from 6pm to 8am. Once tiny buds lock in at the tips of the green segments, you can place it back in indirect sun and leave it there for days and nights. In fact, it’s best not to move the plant after budding.

2. Provide Cool Temperatures

(Image credit: Nadezhda_Nesterova / Getty Images)

Alongside long nights, cool ambient air temperatures also help to initiate those all-important flower buds. Maintaining cooler indoor conditions during October reassures the plant that its natural blooming cycle is underway. The ideal temperature range for setting Thanksgiving cactus buds is between 55-65°F (13-18°C) at night, warming slightly to 65-70°F (18-21°C) during the day. If your plant is kept in a heated living room that stays at a constant 72°F (22°C), bud formation will be sparse or severely delayed.

If outdoor night temperatures in your region remain between 50-60°F (10-15°C) without dropping toward freezing, leaving your pot in a sheltered outdoor spot can work wonders. Alternatively, move the plant to an unheated bedroom, enclosed sunroom, or bright basement window well where nighttime temperatures run cooler. It’s well worth investing in a digital thermometer to help keep track of fluctuations. The AcuRite Digital Indoor Thermometer & Hygrometer, available from Amazon, helps you monitor daily high/low room temperatures and ambient air humidity.

3. Cut Back Watering and Pause Feeds

(Image credit: Katy Gold / Getty Images)

As fall days shorten, your Thanksgiving cactus's metabolic rate slows. Although native to rainforests, these plants grow attached to tree branches, so their roots are susceptible to root rot in soggy potting mix. In October, shift to a conservative watering routine. Allow the top 1-2 inches (2.5-5cm) of potting soil to dry out between waterings. When you do water plants, soak until moisture drains from the bottom, and empty the drainage saucer 15 minutes later so roots never sit in stagnant water.

You also need to pause feeding. High-nitrogen feeds force the plant to push out weak, soft foliage segments rather than flower buds. So stop all feeding in October and November. You can add a diluted liquid fertilizer in late winter after flowering finishes. Additionally, pay attention to indoor humidity as household heating switches on. Maintain an ambient relative humidity of 40-60% by placing the pot on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot bottom sits above the water line.

Placing your cactus alongside other moisture-loving tropical houseplants like ferns or calatheas helps buffer indoor humidity drops caused by household furnaces. You can also boost humidity levels with a reliable plant mister. The Gradvis Plant Mister from IKEA offers excellent pump action at a reasonable price. By establishing a consistent routine, you give your plant the precise signals it needs to set buds on stem tips.

4. Protect Developing Buds

(Image credit: AdrianHancu / Getty Images)

By late October, hopefully your efforts will reward you with tiny, jewel-like flower buds forming at the tips of the arching leaf segments. Once these buds appear, the plant enters its most sensitive phase. The primary threat to your upcoming holiday show is a frustrating phenomenon known as bud blast, where tight, healthy flower buds suddenly turn yellow, shrivel, and drop off the stems overnight.

Bud blast is usually caused by sudden environmental changes or physical disruption. Selecting a permanent, draft-free location for your cactus before buds form is vital. Keep the pot far away from forced-air heat vents, cold window drafts, exterior doors, and direct fireplace radiation. You can pick up under-door buffers like Under-Door Draft Stoppers from Lowe’s, which protect your sensitive indoor plants from drafts.

Most importantly, avoid rotating, moving, or repotting the plant once flower buds exceed a quarter-inch (60mm) in size. Even rotating the pot by 180 degrees alters the direction of light, causing the plant to release ethylene gas that severs the delicate stems attaching the buds to the leaf tips. Set your plant in its holiday display location, then step back and let your cactus get settled (and hopefully bloom merrily).

5. Inspect for Pests

(Image credit: Tomasz Klejdysz / Getty Images)

Pests love this plant’s fleshy stem segments. Catching infestations now ensures your holiday blooms aren’t ruined by unsightly damage. Inspect your plant once a week under good light, checking the upper and lower surfaces of the segments, stem joints, and soil line. If you do catch pests, it’s best to do so before you start to see those flowers emerging.

Mealybugs are among the most common pests, appearing as cottony masses tucked tightly into the joints between plant segments. Scale insects present as raised brown bumps along stem edges, which scrape off easily with a thumbnail. Spider mites leave dusty stippling across stem surfaces and webbing in leaf crotches, thriving in dry indoor air. Fungus gnats show up as tiny black flies fluttering around topsoil, indicating that the potting mix is too wet. Aphids chow down on tender new growth and flower buds, sucking sap and causing buds to drop prematurely.

Address any pests before full flower buds open. Gently wipe down infected leaf segments using a soft cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Alternatively, spray the foliage with a gentle, organic insecticidal soap or pure cold-pressed neem oil drench. I recommend Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Neem Oil Spray, available from Walmart, for an organic blast that is tough on soft-bodied pests but gentle on stem pads.

(Image credit: L_Shtandel / Getty Images)

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There is so much to love about a good container garden. Pots let you experiment with color, move plants around when a border needs a little extra something, and squeeze more greenery into even the smallest outdoor space.

The trouble is, when fall arrives and the first frost is on its way, all of those lovely pots? Well, they need a little extra attention if you want them to make it through the winter unscathed. (Something I learned the hard way during my early attempts at gardening; it was devastating).

Thankfully, my husband is a professional gardener, so I've learned to listen when he starts talking about protecting plants for winter. Because, while I'm tempted to leave everything where it is and hope for the best, he has put a lot of effort into teaching me that a little preparation now can make all the difference to how well plants survive the colder months.

What Your Container Garden Needs Before The First Frost

Temperatures are a little erratic this year, thanks to the ongoing El Niño, and things are set to be just as wildly unpredictable this winter. Planning ahead, then, is more important than ever.

So, if you've been wondering what to do with your container garden before temperatures drop, these are the three jobs that my husband recommends prioritizing.

1. Move Tender Plants

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When it comes to overwintering your container garden, my husband's first piece of advice is simple enough: figure out which of your plants can handle the cold and which can't.

"If you've got tender plants in containers, don't wait until the first frost is forecast to start thinking about where they're going to spend winter," he says. "Move them somewhere protected while the weather is still mild enough for them to adjust."

Plants in pots are more exposed to cold than plants growing in the ground, because their roots aren't insulated by the surrounding soil. Tropical plants, tender perennials, and many plants that have spent summer outside may need to be moved indoors or into a frost-free greenhouse, conservatory, or garage, depending on their light requirements.

Top tip: Before bringing plants inside, check their leaves, stems, and potting mix for pests. It's also worth moving them gradually into their new environment where possible, rather than taking them straight from a sunny patio into a dark corner indoors.

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Tlswshsy 2 Pack Plant Winter Protection Pot

Rio Hamza Trading 100% Natural Pine Bark Mulch Nuggets

Duck Duck Brand Small Bubble Cushioning Wrap

2. Group Your Outdoor Pots

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

If you've got containers that need to stay outside, my husband advises you group them together in a sheltered spot. (Well, what he actually said was to treat them like penguins and get them in a huddle, but close enough).

Why? "It means they're less exposed to cold winds, and you can give the pots a little extra protection," he says. "Just make sure you're grouping plants with similar needs, and don't block drainage holes or leave containers sitting in water."

Grouping pots against a sheltered wall can help reduce their exposure to wind and make them easier to protect. It won't make tender plants frost-proof, but it can be a useful measure for hardy plants that are staying outdoors.

Top tip: Try to choose a spot that offers protection without becoming waterlogged, and raise pots slightly on pot feet or bricks if necessary to help excess water drain away. Good drainage is particularly important during winter, when cold and wet compost can put roots under additional stress.

3. Get Insulating

(Image credit: freemixer / Getty Images)

One thing people often forget is that it's not just the foliage you need to think about. "The roots are sitting in a container that's exposed to cold air on all sides, so I always recommend giving them a little extra protection before the first frost arrives," says my husband. "You can wrap the outside of the pot with bubble wrap or hessian, and add a layer of mulch over the surface of the compost to help insulate the roots from temperature fluctuations."

Terracotta pots can be particularly vulnerable to cracking when moisture freezes and expands, so insulating the container can be helpful in exposed conditions. Bubble wrap provides an extra layer of insulation around the pot, while hessian is another option for wrapping containers.

Mulching the surface of the compost adds another layer of protection, helping to reduce temperature fluctuations around the roots. Well-rotted garden compost, manure, bark chips, straw, or shredded leaves can all work well, depending on the plant. "Just be sure to keep the mulch away from stems and crowns, and make sure excess water can drain freely," my husband adds.

Top tip: the important thing to remember is that insulation can help protect roots, but it won't turn a tender plant into a frost-hardy one. If you're growing plants that can't tolerate freezing temperatures, you'll still need to move them somewhere sheltered or frost-free.

It's important to remember that insulation is not a substitute for moving a frost-sensitive plant somewhere safe; the right approach depends on the plant, the container, and how cold your local winters become.

So, before the first frost arrives, check which plants need to move indoors, group the hardier containers in a sheltered spot, and protect exposed pots from the worst of the cold. It doesn't need to be an enormous job, either; honestly, just little time spent preparing now could help protect your plants through winter and leave you with a healthier collection to enjoy when spring comes around.

You can't ask for more than that, right?

Once a woodworker, always a woodworker. Marc Bricault may be an accomplished interior and architectural designer, but he started out as an artisan, and his work is still grounded in timber.

For a custom guest house in Whistler, he layered Douglas fir inside and out.

“We used fir because I really like the warmth of it and how it ages, and it’s a Pacific Northwest material,” says Bricault, who began his career as owner of Granville Island Woodworks and is now principal of Vancouver’s Bricault Design. “A lot of time spent up here is going to be in the winter. We just really wanted it to feel like a warm little cabin where, after a day outside on the slopes, you come and just feel cosy.”

When the homeowner, a longtime client, asked Bricault to add a guest house to her Whistler property, she wanted it to feel connected to the main house without blocking views. He and his team dovetailed the 1,268-square-foot structure into the landscape so deftly that it’s nearly camouflaged among conifers and shrubs.

He had a small section of rock blasted away so the narrow, two-storey structure could notch into the cliffside on one side of the property. The placement also preserves wildlife corridors used by local bears.

Angling upper walls away from the main home’s view lines, he extended the landscape over a series of walkways with tiered green roofs.

“I kind of grabbed the backyard and pulled it on top of the carport,” says Bricault. “We terraced along the way to have a really generously protected walkway from the carport to the little house, because of Whistler snow loads and so that you aren’t shovelling your walk every time you go to the guest house.”

Landscaping softens the rest of the edges. Working with High Country Landscape, Bricault used hardy, low-maintenance vegetation on the green roofs, then added trees to frame specific views: a paperbark maple outside the dining room, a red-leafed Japanese maple at the end of a walkway. A raised mound planted with perennials screens a neighbouring property.

Material choices help the structure blend in further. Black slate shakes give the exterior a “toothlike” form, “like a big rock,” says Bricault, reminiscent of Black Tusk, the jagged volcanic peak in nearby Garibaldi Provincial Park. Copper downpipes and fascia, still bright in places, will darken as they weather.

Under canopies and soffits, edge-grain fir adds warmth, running inside and onto interior walls and ceilings. Bricault’s woodworking roots show here and throughout the home, especially where cabinetry does more than one job — storage, room divider, design feature — and custom pieces blur the line between built-ins and furniture.

Take the entry, where a compact mud room turns the space into a functional landing spot. Fir millwork provides storage while creating separation from the dining area, and a built-in bench flows into open shelving.

A corner window looks toward a cliff face laced with green foliage. “We planted that whole back area with ferns, so it’s kind of a nice spot to sit and take off your boots,” says Bricault. The team also widened natural fissures in the rock to plant moss, he adds: “It’s starting to populate the side of that cliff because it’s in shade a lot of the time. It’s quite lovely when it’s wet.”

A powder room off the entry brings the exterior palette inside, with fir, copper, forest-green tile, soft green quartzite counters and a custom floating mirror edged in bent wood. A second wide window frames the mossy rock outside.

In the kitchen, green quartzite counters top fir cabinetry with copper-plated hardware, while glossy green ceramic tile runs along the backsplash and adjoining walls.

For the dining room, Bricault designed a custom white-oak table with an expandable top and fluting on the apron and legs. Project millworker and Bricault’s longtime collaborator Ted Belch produced the piece locally. A striped pendant overhead adds a playful touch.

Around the corner, a petite living room centres on a fir-lined bay window and glazed-tile fireplace. A concrete hearth extends to the foot of a staircase with cantilevered steps of FSC-certified arbutus. Slim vertical steel bars help support the treads and frame open shelving, continuing upstairs, where they become a guardrail in the sleeping quarters.

There, copper panels etched with a Japanese floral motif flank the bed above arbutus-burl side tables. Built-in drawers opposite make use of the depth created by the angled exterior walls. Motorized blinds disappear into recessed ceiling pockets.

The ensuite continues the home’s earthy palette with brown-green Italian porcelain tile, arbutus flooring and a custom fir vanity perched on fluted legs that feels like furniture. A free-standing tub sits beside a window framing mountain views, while millwork adds storage and separates the bathroom from the bedroom.

For Bricault, the guest house shows how much a small footprint can hold. “I think we managed to fit quite a bit into a very small stand-alone house,” he says. “It feels quite luxurious to me, and cosy and warm and very functional for the size of it.”

Architectural and interior design:Bricault Design

Construction:Vision Pacific Construction

Landscaping:High Country Landscape

Millwork:Ted Belch, Ebony Architectural Woodwork

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Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

801 — 3315 Cypress Pl., West Vancouver

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom apartment

Size: 2,018 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,991,000

Listed for: $2,550,000

Sold for: $2,300,000

Sold on: Aug. 10

Days on market in this listing: 118

Listing agent: Rahim Jivraj at eXp Realty

Buyers agent: Franco Diligenti PREC at Macdonald Realty

The big sell: The Cypress Park Estates community resides on the slopes of West Vancouver with properties designed to capture the far-reaching vistas that span Mount Baker to the Gulf Islands. Many of these view homes are detached but StoneCliff is a three-tower concrete residential condo development comprising 111 units that were constructed in the early 2000s. Occupying part of one of the towers is this triple-aspect corner unit that features the sleeping quarters on one side of the floorplan and the reception rooms on the other — deliberately arranged to take full advantage of the uninterrupted south-facing coastal views. The renovated interior features bespoke finishings that create a modern esthetic with custom cabinetry, contemporary light fixtures, and modern bathrooms. The complex provides a number of clubhouse amenities shared between residents of the three towers, and this unit comes with a private double garage and a monthly maintenance fee of $1,319.63.

9314 216 St., Langley

Type: Six-bedroom, four-bathroom detached

Size: 3,217 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,354,000

Listed for: $1,369,900

Sold for: $1,339,000

Sold on: Aug. 5

Days on market in this listing: 48

Listing agent: Rod Bahari PREC at Sutton Group — West Coast Realty

Buyers agent: Chandan Rathod at Sutton Group — Seafair Realty

The big sell: This spacious three-level home resides in Langley’s Walnut Grove district within the Redwood Estates neighbourhood. With six bedrooms and four bathrooms (including a two-bedroom basement suite), the house offers a versatile design and plenty of space for a growing family. The main floor has bright living and dining rooms with a traditional cross-hall layout complete with coffered ceilings and crown mouldings, while the kitchen has Shaker-style maple cabinets, an island, and stainless-steel appliances. Adjacent to the kitchen is an 18-foot-long family room with a gas fireplace, and views across the fully-fenced backyard. There are four generous-sized bedrooms upstairs including the primary suite with a walk-in closet and ensuite bathroom. In addition to the accommodation on the lowest level, there is a recreation room for use by the main house. The property has a double garage with lane access, and the home is air-conditioned and a new furnace has recently been installed.

4505 — 3833 Evergreen Pl., Burnaby

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom apartment

Size: 1,175 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,176,000

Listed for: $1,099,999

Sold for: $1,055,000

Sold on: June 30

Days on market in this listing: Seven

Listing agent: Adam Chahl PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Payam Nasernejad at faithwilson Christie’s International Real Estate

The big sell: This air-conditioned sky suite offers a bird’s-eye view of the area due to its position on the 45th floor within the master-planned City of Lougheed site which offers four newly-built residential towers within its five-acre Neighbourhood ONE community, as well as a three-storey central amenity building with fitness and wellness options for residents including a rooftop putting green. A convenient location next to Lougheed Mall with the SkyTrain and numerous retail choices is another bonus. This particular home has two balconies with glass-panel railings, three bedrooms (two are ensuited), laminate floors throughout the interior, white matte cabinets in the kitchen alongside integrated appliances including a french door refrigerator, and there is full-sized laundry. It comes with one parking stall in the underground garage, and a monthly maintenance fee of $723.61.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

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By any measure, a wall tile install or overhaul can elevate any kitchen or bathroom into a brighter, cleaner, jazzier or classier space, depending on the tile style.

The job can be complicated and time-consuming, requiring the expertise of a pro, especially if using high-end materials like imported marble, zellige, porcelain or travertine. Or it can be quick and easy if you opt for DIY peel-and-stick types, which have come a long way from the cheap, plastic-looking tiles of old.

Tile types

Bathroom and kitchen wall tiles generally come in two main types: field and mosaic. Field tiles are larger than decorative tiles, allowing you to cover a bigger surface area.

Mosaic tiles are usually smaller, and are laid together on a large sheet with mesh backing, so you can place dozens at a time.

Ceramic is the most popular material for backsplash tiling because it’s made from clay that has been fired at a high temperature to make it hard and durable. When glazed, ceramic tiles are moisture- and stain-resistant.

Porcelain, a type of ceramic, but harder, denser, more durable and less porous, is also popular.

Natural stone tiles — milky white marble streaked with veins of grey and black; travertine with its dimpled texture and warm tones; smooth slate, made of sedimentary rock in shades of grey; and naturally water-resistant, classy granite — are all highly durable with a variety of textures and colours. They’re costlier and heavier than ceramic and trickier to install yourself.

Engineered materials like glass and cement are less expensive and more versatile. Glass is non-porous and easy to cut with the right tools.

Sealed cement tiles are super durable and are available in a variety of beautiful shapes and patterns. They are, however, heavier and thicker, so make sure your walls can support that extra weight.

Metal tiles are often made of shiny stainless steel but can also come in copper, brass and tin, all durable and water-resistant. They’re lighter than most materials and relatively easy to install.

Wood tiles come in many shapes and designs and often retain their natural grain look. They’re lightweight, affordable and easy to install but often need to be properly sealed to repel water.

As for shapes, backsplash tiles are available in grid-like square; subway-style rectangle; honeycomb hexagon; curvy arabesque; and argyle-like diamond. Popular designs include staggered rectangular subway; ceramic brick made to look like the real thing; zig-zaggy herringbone/chevron; and simple pre-set grid sheets.

Sticky situation

High-end, specialty tile installation is best left to the pros. Peel-and-stick tiles are easy enough for most people to do themselves.

Many interior designers, however, frown upon peel-and-stick as a low-rent solution for a high-end room.

“They definitely have a place,” says Sandra Flora of Vancouver’s Sandra Flora Home Design . “Maybe as a temporary update for a rental space or an RV, or if you’re on a fixed budget, but I would never substitute a peel-and- stick tile for the real thing. If you have your own home and you want your kitchen done right so it’s going to last, I would invest in permanent tiles.”

Flora says she can spot cheap peel-and-stick from across a room. “You’ll see lifting, peeling, wear and tear. Sometimes they pull the drywall right off when you try to remove them.”

Marie-Maude Hannan, developpement des affaires for Quebec-based Inoxia Walls , says her company’s SpeedTiles are made of the real thing — stone, glass, marble, metal and, soon, porcelain. And they come with a 10-year warranty.

“We have a few models that are groutable so once they’re installed nobody knows that they’re peel-and-stick because they look exactly the same as any traditional tile,” says Hannan. “You can’t tell them apart, I assure you.”

Against the walls

Laying traditional tiles can be an involved, multi-day process requiring wall sanding, spreading adhesive or mortar with a trowel, laying the tiles precisely, placing tile-spacers, one to two days of drying then grouting, then, after a few days of curing, sealing and caulking.

Peel-and-stick are much easier. “I’m not a handy person and I did my backsplash myself in one morning,” says Hannan, noting that, because the tiles are made of real materials, they do need to be cut with tools.

She says you can even install Inoxia’s tiles over existing tiles, provided the surface is clean, smooth, level and non-porous. If not, it would have to be primed to prevent it absorbing the adhesive.

Peel-and-stick tiles can be pretty unforgiving — if you make a mistake, you’re stuck, literally. Hannan says there’s a trick to avoid that. “Mix water and a bit of dish soap in an empty 500-750 ml spray bottle, spray the back of the tile with the solution and spread it over the entire tile with your hands. This will delay the bond for maybe 30 seconds to allow you to place it correctly.”

She says if you tire of the tiles after a few years you’ll have to remove them the same way you would with traditional tiles that were installed using mortar because the adhesive is so strong the wall will come off with the tile.

She says tiles that require grout can be installed on a shower wall but not the floor because they are so thin they could break. Also, “We don’t recommend the ones without grout in wet areas, not because of the adhesion but because, even though they’re really tight, there can be micro gaps in between the tiles (that could cause) mildew buildup. But for the grouted tiles, as long as the wall is prepped correctly, just as with any other tile, then there is no issue at all.”

Hannan says, depending on the type of tile, most can be cleaned with a washcloth, water and mild soap.

Matching tile with decor

Before selecting the style of tile, Flora first considers the style of the space she’s decorating.

“I’ll take the client’s artwork into consideration. If it’s very expensive, they’re not going to change that so I’ll work around it so the tiling complements it. I also take into consideration countertops, flooring, lighting, paint colour, hardware, cabinets, unless they’re willing to change it. I might get them to swap out the hardware on their kitchen cabinets and bring in a punch of cool colours and patterns to the tile.”

For design elements, Flora will often add a few decorative ceramic tiles with features such as handmade paintings. “There are some beautiful tiles that have an Amalfi Coast setting. You can add a mosaic type in behind a stove, sometimes in a shower insert. You can never go wrong with light colours and the odd few pops of forest greens, tans, creams. Pink or purple wouldn’t be something I would do because it’s too trendy. This isn’t something you’re going to do every few years because it’s very expensive.”

She prefers natural stone and simple ceramic tiles which she says never go out of style. “Subway tile is great when it’s used in the right layout and with the right colour grout. A lot of designers stay away from subway tile because they see it as dated. I don’t. I see it as timeless, classic.”

She also avoids grey, which she says can be very drab, especially in Vancouver in the fall and winter when we get a lot of rain. “If you bring in some lighter, brighter colours it opens up and brightens up a space and changes the mood.”

If you do opt for peel-and-stick, Hannan says it’s important to differentiate between quality tiles like Inoxia’s and cheaper vinyl or plastic options.

“I’m no expert in those but from what I’ve seen and heard, sometimes they can yellow or crack with time. Because they’re made to be a temporary solution the adhesive is not extra powerful so they can fall off. You also cannot put them over heat so (they won’t work) as a backsplash behind your stove because they’ll burn. Our peel-and-stick is much faster, much easier, but look exactly the same. It’s the best of both worlds.”

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If you want to get the most for your money at the garden center, it helps to know which plants give you the biggest return on your investment. Some plants grow quickly enough to create a privacy hedge in just a few years, while others provide landscape interest across multiple seasons. Many produce absolutely beautiful blooms, while others can be easily propagated to fill out your landscape for free, without spending another dime.

I'm Gardening Know How's Digital Community Manager and in-house plant shopping expert. I'm also a former garden center manager with over 20 years of experience, so I know which plants give gardeners the biggest bang for their buck at the cash register.

This is the latest installment in my Garden Center Secrets series, where I share Insider tips only garden center employees know to help you shop smarter at the nursery. Here are the plants worth spending your money on.

1. Panicle Hydrangea

(Image credit: Wut_Moppie / Shutterstock)

If you want a plant that definitely earns its keep in the garden, panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) are hard to beat. Unlike some other types of hydrangeas, these reliable bloomers produce flowers every year, regardless of when or how you prune. This takes away one of the biggest frustrations gardeners have with hydrangeas: wondering whether you’ll actually get flowers this year.

This species also puts on a spectacular show, producing large, cone-shaped blooms that often emerge in one color and gradually change to richer, more vibrant shades as the season progresses.

Depending on the cultivar, they can grow in full sun or part shade in USDA zones 3–9, and a small, inexpensive 1-gallon plant can become a substantial landscape plant in just a few years. Plant several together, and you can even create an attractive flowering privacy hedge.

And there’s another way these hydrangeas can give you more for your money: they’re surprisingly easy to propagate from cuttings. In fact, I have even propagated them accidentally after leaving some of my clippings on the ground over winter.

Shop Panicle Hydrangeas

First Editions 3 Gal. Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea Shrub

Proven Winners Colorchoice 6" Limelight Panicle Hydrangea

Groundbreaker Ruby Hydrangea

2. Cranesbill Geranium

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

When it comes to getting the most bang for your buck from a perennial, few plants can compete with hardy cranesbill geranium ‘Rozanne.’ The price of this plant may catch you off guard, as it can cost a little more than some other perennials (though Nature Hills stocks them for about $20), but this is one plant where the extra investment is well worth it.

This is one of the longest-blooming perennials you can add to your garden in zones 4–8. Its violet-blue, saucer-shaped flowers appear in abundance above deep green foliage that remains attractive even when the plant isn’t blooming, and the blooms just keep coming from late spring well into fall.

But here’s where ‘Rozanne’ really earns its keep: that little plant you bring home can grow into a 2-3 foot clump in just a season or two, without becoming invasive. It can handle everything from moist soil to well-drained conditions and even periods of drought. It grows happily in full sun or part shade, making it an easy fit for just about any spot in the landscape.

And once your plant gets established, it can easily be divided and replanted elsewhere in the garden. So that initial investment can eventually give you even more plants to fill your landscape.

3. Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry

(Image credit: Inna Giliarova / Shutterstock)

Serviceberry (Amelanchier × grandiflora 'Autumn Brilliance') is one of those trees I think just about every landscape should have because it offers something for nearly every season. It’s an especially useful small landscape tree, spanning zones 3–9, and you’ll often find it offered in both tree and shrub forms. The tree forms are compact enough to plant safely near the corner of your house, making them an excellent choice for foundation plantings.

You can pick up a small starter serviceberry at Walmart for a reasonable price.

I picked serviceberry for this list because it provides something interesting in just about every season. In very early spring, small white flowers cover the branches, often blooming before many other plants have even started to wake up. That makes them an important early source of food for pollinators when there aren’t many other flowers available.

Those flowers are followed by sweet, edible, blueberry-like fruits that can be enjoyed by both people and wildlife. So you get a harvest for yourself while also adding an excellent food source for birds and other wildlife in your yard.

And serviceberry doesn’t quit when summer is over. Its foliage provides beautiful seasonal interest in fall, often turning vibrant shades before dropping. In winter, the attractive, multicolored bark adds welcome color and texture to an otherwise dreary landscape.

4. Ornamental Grass

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Ornamental grasses are some of the most overlooked plants in the garden, yet they can offer some of the best bang for your buck. A single small potted grass can grow into a dramatic specimen in just a few years, filling a large area of the landscape for a fraction of what you might spend on a similarly sized shrub. Some varieties can reach 6 feet tall or more, creating an impressive focal point while adding movement and texture to the garden. Of course, not every landscape needs a 6-foot-tall grass, and there are plenty of dwarf and compact varieties that can fit into almost any garden.

Beyond their size and versatility, ornamental grasses provide structure throughout the seasons. Depending on the variety, they can also add beautiful winter interest, with seedheads that stand well into the colder months. And when it comes to maintenance, many require little more than a simple cutback in early spring before new growth begins.

They can also become an investment that keeps giving. Once a grass has had a few years to establish into a substantial clump, you can divide it in early spring or fall using a shovel or sharp blade to separate a portion of the root ball from the main plant. Replant those divisions elsewhere in your landscape, and one plant can eventually become several.

Just be selective about the grasses you bring home. Look for native species or well-behaved cultivars suited to your area, and always check whether a particular variety has a history of becoming invasive.

Shop Ornamental Grasses

Proven Winners Prairie Winds 'October Sky' Switch Grass

Dwarf Purple Fountain Grass

Proven Selections All Gold Japanese Forest Grass

5. Catmint

(Image credit: Fotolinchen / Getty Images)

Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is hard to beat when it comes to stretching your garden budget. Depending on the variety, these plants typically grow anywhere from 12 to 36 inches tall and wide, making them incredibly versatile. You can tuck them into just about any corner or section of the garden that needs a splash of color in zones 3–8.

Some older catmint varieties can be prone to sprawl or flop open, but the recently introduced Cat’s Meow variety, available from Proven Winners via Amazon, maintains a more attractive, rounded mound that is often mistaken for lavender.

One of the best things about catmint is how easy it is to grow. It thrives in dry soil and easily handles drought conditions, so it doesn’t ask much from you once it’s established. After that first flush of blooms in spring, give the plant a good cutback to encourage a more compact, tidy shape while also promoting another round of blooms for an even longer display.

Catmint is also a fantastic choice for low-maintenance landscapes. It’s deer- and rabbit-resistant, has a long blooming period, and naturally forms a dense, rounded shape that works beautifully along borders, in front-of-house plantings, or throughout a perennial garden. Its aromatic foliage is another bonus, and its flowers are highly attractive to pollinators.

And the value doesn’t stop with the original plant. Like many perennials, catmint can be divided in early spring or fall, allowing you to turn one established plant into several new plants for other areas of the landscape.

6. Black-Eyed Susans

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) is one of those perennials you can almost forget about until summer arrives and suddenly they burst into bloom. And what a welcome sight they are, especially when some of the earlier-blooming perennials are starting to fade, and the landscape needs a fresh splash of color.

These tough, long-blooming perennials produce masses of golden, daisy-like flowers with unmistakable dark brown central cones that return year after year. Once established, they can gradually spread to create even more color in the landscape. They look especially impressive planted in masses, but they also make excellent cut flowers.

Another reason black-eyed Susan offers so much value is how easily it can be divided. In spring, established plants can be divided to create even more color throughout your landscape or to share with family and friends. And when fall arrives, resist the temptation to cut those flowerheads back. The dark seed cones provide wonderful winter interest and remain attractive well into the colder months. Even better, those seeds provide an important food source for small birds.

They’re also remarkably adaptable. Black-eyed Susans perform well in full sun or part shade in zones 3–9, grow happily in average garden soil, and can tolerate dry conditions once established. Many varieties are native to North America, making them an excellent choice for creating a beautiful, resilient, and wildlife-friendly landscape.

Be sure to look for Black-eyed Susans in the clearance section in fall after the blooms have faded. You might even find an established plant at an even better price!

Plant Addicts has a great selection of black-eyed Susan plants, including the newly launched Treasure Trove variety, which offers superior disease resistance and is less prone to flopping.

How to Get Even More Bang For Your Buck

If you really want to stretch your garden budget, there are a few more tricks that can save you a surprising amount of money. Sometimes the best value isn't finding the cheapest plant; it's finding a way to turn one small investment into an entire garden.

• Grow from Seed
  One of the easiest ways to save money is to grow perennial flowers from seed rather than buying established gallon-size plants. A packet of seeds may cost just a few dollars, compared with $15, $20, or more for a single large perennial at the garden center. You'll have to wait a little longer for those tiny seedlings to become substantial plants, but the savings can be enormous. Some great perennials to try from seed include purple coneflower, Shasta daisy, columbine, yarrow, foxglove, lupine, and bee balm.
• Divide and Multiply
  Another smart investment is choosing perennials that naturally form larger clumps and can be divided into multiple plants over time. Hostas, sedum, daylilies, iris, phlox, garden peonies, and astilbe are all excellent examples. Start with one healthy plant, let it establish for a few years, and eventually you can divide it to create new plants for other parts of your landscape.
• Buy in Bulk
  Finally, don’t overlook those smaller plants tucked away in six-packs or flats. They may look tiny compared to the gallon-size perennials sitting beside them, but buying several smaller plants at once can offer significant savings. They’ll take a little longer to fill in, but with a bit of patience, those small plants will grow into the same beautiful garden for considerably less money.

Fall bulb planting has changed dramatically. Gone are the days of picking up some bulbs, scattering them throughout the garden, and looking forward to a spring display.

Today it’s more about creating a specific look in a specific area for a specific time. There is a six-month window of opportunity and creative gardeners are doing some amazing things.

There’s also a great deal of competition for those bulbs. They’re great food for rodents, and squirrels are some of the leading culprits. Plan A is to avoid planting their favourites, and Plan B is being a lot more creative than they are.

Safe bets are the very large narcissus family, giving you many options in size and timing. The allium family is becoming very popular and offers great diversity in varieties. Since rodents are not fans of onions, they also stand a good chance of making it. Also not rodent friendly, the unique fritillaries are a good choice. They add a fun yet natural look to the garden. Surprisingly, snow drops, or Galanthus, are not on the rodent menu, giving us a mid-winter show to kick off our bulb display season.

Planted now, your snow drops should start to appear in late December or early January, depending on the winter weather. Planted around trees and shrubs, in among ground covers like sedums and the black mondo grass, and next to dark foliaged heucheras, they make for great combinations. More folks are planting bulbs in lawn areas where they can naturalize and multiply each year all nestled in a nice green blanket.

The vibrant colours of crocus can be used in the same ways, but you’ll have some competition for these tasty bulbs. The simplest and easiest way to protect them is by covering your plantings with a small weave wire mesh. It can stay in the ground year-round as the bulbs flower through the mesh and the leaves will come and go without anyone noticing. Another deterrent is strongly scented herb leaves like mint and chives, which, when sprinkled over the plantings and covered with soil, will help repel rodents.

Although not actually rodent proof, the whole family of muscari, or grape hyacinths, seem to have little attraction for our bulb eating friends. Muscari multiply and naturalize easily and planted among ground covers, evergreen perennials, and evergreen shrubs like dwarf azaleas and rhododendrons, they look quite stunning. The fact they are now available in shades of blue, white, and pink further broadens their appeal. The world’s number one bulb show garden, Keukenhof in Holland, uses them everywhere as an accent. They make a stunning display initially, and then improve as they multiply each year. I would simply scatter some chives and mint leaves around them when planting for some insurance.

The most impressive narcissus are the smaller varieties like the bulbicodiums and Tete a Tetes. Bulbicodium bulbs are about the same size as a crocus and can be used in the same way as companions to ground covers, evergreen perennials, and low broadleafed shrubs. Tete a Tete narcissus, while one of the smallest, are the most floriferous in the world and can produce from six to nine flowers per bulb the first year. They are also the best indoor forcing mini-daffodils for containers and pots, with great lasting qualities too. These would be my number one pick for patio pots, but they might need a little protection in cold winters.

Don’t forget the cut flower trend is still huge today and the late flowering narcissus like n. Cheerfulness, n. Yellow Cheerfulness, n. Geranium, and n. Bridal Crown are some of the most fragrant, longest stemmed, and latest to bloom.

Narcissus really do have so much to offer. Two of my favourite narcissus are n. Yellow Brick Road, a blend of early, mid- and late-season yellows that greatly extends the blooming season, and n. Reynfeld’s Early Sensation, the earliest narcissus to bloom. Depending on how mild the winter is, I have seen them beautify dark, chilly January days — a promise of spring well before its time.

Tulip bulbs are perhaps the most at risk from our rodent population. I would cover them all with a slightly wider mesh to not only protect them, but allow them to multiply and naturalize in place.

My favourites are the mini-botanical varieties. With bulbs the size of crocus they make a nice snack for those cute little squirrels so they also need to be protected with fine wire mesh covering and I would add some chives and mint as well.

The many families of tulips bloom in sequence, from the Greigiis, the Kaufmanniana single early and double early, the Triumphs, the Darwins, Darwin hybrid fringed, double Peony flowered, green flamed Viridifloras, and finally the lily-flowered and parrots. There are so many spectacular varieties out there, it is no secret that they are Canada’s number one cut flower in terms of numbers sold. Maybe splurge a little and pop just a few of the more spectacular varieties.

A special all natural, eco-friendly product called Bobbex, one we use on plants to deter deer and rabbits, is now available as Bobbex R. which is specifically formulated for rodents. Dip the bulbs in a solution of this and it will make a huge difference in the safety of your bulbs, especially tulips.

If you have never tried fritillarias before, plant few this year. They are not only unique and beautiful, but they, especially the fritillaria Crown Imperial, deter rodents as well.

Alliums have become the young gardeners’ dream plant because of their sheer size and the stunning round flower heads. They are outstanding pollinators as well. If you mix them with the newer perennial varieties, you can get them to bloom over most of the summer.

Don’t miss the opportunity this fall to spice up your garden with these fabulous spring flowering bulbs and don’t forget to protect them from the varmints.

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• Brian Minter: This time of year your garden soil needs some help. Here's how

Call me sentimental, but I feel sad seeing those vegetable beds that overflowed with produce all summer lie empty in October. Gone are the bright red tomatoes, the sprawling zucchini, and the leafy greens growing in lush rows. All that remains is a little debris and bare garden soil. Likewise, beds once filled with colorful annual flowers may now look rather sorry for themselves.

Seeing those sad, abandoned rows was what originally prompted me to try growing cover crops in the fall. But once I got into the habit, I discovered so many other benefits that I now recommend them to friends, family, neighbors – and you. In fact, cover crops offer many of the same benefits as mulch, suppressing weeds, improving soil structure, and protecting against erosion. They can also act as green manure, adding valuable organic matter and nutrients to the soil when you cut them down and incorporate them before spring planting.

Growing fall cover crops isn’t difficult, but it helps to get the information you need up front, including how to prepare the soil, which cover crops to plant, and when to plant them. That’s why I’ve pulled it all together for you in this article.

Why Bare Soil Is a Problem Over Winter

Even if you don’t feel sentimental about the deserted autumn beds, there are many reasons not to leave garden soil bare over winter. The practice can damage soil health, structure, and fertility.

Let’s think about erosion first. When plants grow in soil, their roots anchor it in place, preventing the precious top layer from blowing away. Winter’s worst can easily blow or wash away bare soil. That reduces the amount of topsoil that spring crops have to grow in.

Beyond washing away topsoil, winter rain can leach water-soluble nutrients from the soil. These vital nutrients are essential to growing a healthy spring crop. In addition, it can leave the soil crusted over, damage soil structure by removing air spaces, and generally leave it severely compacted.

Soil like this is not a good place to plant spring vegetables or flowers, but the weeds don’t object. In fact, aggressive winter weeds invade the bare ground, followed by nettles and bindweeds, as well as other early spring weeds.

(Image credit: Maxim Gutsal / Shutterstock)Benefits of Cover Crops

Cover crops address almost all bare-soil-over-winter issues, and they do it in spades. When you plant fall cover crops, their roots dive deep and hold the soil firmly in place. Weed roots are tougher than winter wind and heavy rain. That means that they prevent erosion. That’s important, but it’s not the whole story.

Installing fall cover crops also keeps winter weeds away, or at least dramatically reduces their number. They also stop the soil from crusting, improve the soil structure, and add additional organic matter back into the soil to get it ready for spring planting.

Be sure to wait 2–3 weeks after terminating the cover crops in spring before planting.

(Image credit: Getty Images)5 Top Fall Cover Crops

So, which cover crops should you grow? The best choice depends on your climate, soil, and what you plan to plant in spring. Some are particularly good at suppressing weeds, while others improve soil fertility or help break up compacted ground.

The good news is they are not expensive – you can pick up a 5-variety collection from Survival Garden Seeds on Amazon for about $10. For larger areas, consider a 10lb cover crop mixture from Outsidepride.

Here are some of the best options for protecting and improving your garden beds over winter.

1. Winter Rye

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If you are just wading into the world of fall cover crops, winter rye (aka cereal rye) is one of the best places to start. This extremely cold-hardy, cool-season grass should be planted about four weeks before the first hard freeze. It is easy to grow and very reliable. You can pick up a 10lb bag of winter rye seeds from CZ Grains at Walmart.

Winter rye has deep, fibrous roots that stop erosion in its tracks. In fact, those roots can also loosen and break up heavy clay and choke out weeds. But it offers a second layer of weed protection: the plants release chemicals that block some weeds, like pigweed. In addition, those roots trap and hold residual nitrogen and minerals over winter, preventing leaching.

Chop out winter rye in early spring before it gets too woody.

2. Hairy Vetch

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Hairy vetch is another great fall cover crop. It is a hardy winter annual legume and an especially effective cover crop because it fixes large amounts of nitrogen in the soil, up to 200 pounds per acre. That means that, come spring, you don’t need to add fertilizer.

The roots of this legume prevent erosion over the winter. It is a dense vining crop, with spring growth up to 12 feet (4 m) tall. It completely shades out any early-spring weeds.

Plant this cover crop early enough for the roots to be well established before the first hard freeze. You’ll want to take out your hairy vetch cover crop in spring while the plant is in the early bud or early flower stage.

Buy hairy vetch seeds from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon.

3. Crimson Clover

(Image credit: Venars.original / Shutterstock)

This cover crop is attractive and effective. Crimson clover is just plain pretty for a legume, with bright crimson, cone-shaped flowers that attract bees and beneficial insects in spring. It’s a good choice for those living in regions with milder winters.

Sweet Yards sells crimson clover in various pack sizes on Amazon.

Crimson clover is a cool-season annual legume that grows rapidly. It fixes nitrogen in the soil, adding up to 200 pounds per acre, which is perfect for fertilizing your spring garden. What about weeds? Crimson clover forms a dense ground cover mat that totally blocks weeds.

Plant clover seeds up to eight weeks before the first frost. It grows best in well-draining soil. This is a cover crop that is easy to terminate in spring since it dies back or breaks down easily, unlike aggressive root crops. Mow it down before it goes fully to seed. Wait a few weeks before planting your next spring crop.

4. Austrian Winter Peas

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Austrian winter peas – or winter field peas – are cool-season annual legumes that are popular fall cover crops. Like other legumes, these peas fix nitrogen in the soil, producing up to 150 pounds of nitrogen per acre, to the benefit of your spring crops.

Outsidepride sells Austrian winter peas via Amazon in various pack sizes.

These plants are lush vines that carpet the soil. Just by growing, they choke out winter weeds. If you use rye or oats as companion plants for fall cover crops, they will provide upright physical support for winter pea stems.

Plant Austrian winter peas a month or two before the first hard frost in your area. It’s best to give these peas five or more weeks of growth to establish strong root systems and low, compact growth before freezing temperatures arrive. Come spring, these are easy plants to terminate. Their hollow stems can be chopped down in spring once they hit full bloom.

5. Winter Oats

(Image credit: Natalya Rozhkova / Shutterstock)

These are fast-growing cool-season annual grasses that make an exceptional cover crop. You can pick up a pack of winter oats seeds from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon. The plants’ dense, fibrous roots anchor the topsoil in place all winter long and also break up compacted earth.

Winter oats germinate quickly, helping them smother winter weeds. The plants also absorb soil nitrogen and release it back to microorganisms as they break down.

Winter oats often die back from winter frost. But this doesn’t stop their cover-crop value. The dead grass forms a natural, easy-to-manage mulch blanket.

Shop Cover Crop Seeds

Survival Garden Seeds Cover Crop Seeds – 5 Variety Collection

Outsidepride Gardenway Cover Crop Seeds – 10 Lbs Mixture

Cover Crop Seeds (Organic) – Mixed

Spending time in the backyard is high on most people’s priority list. Whether gardening or clearing, playing games, or just relaxing, most of us crave a sanctuary from all the pressures of life – without the worry of prying eyes. To help give that privacy, it helps to add evergreen hedges, screens, or specimen plants that naturally create a lush, living buffer between your space and the outside world.

Year-round foliage not only makes the yard feel more secluded, but it also reduces street noise, blocks unsightly views, and provides vital shelter and food for birds. By installing a green screen, you can soften property edges with ornamental value, especially if you use flowering or scented privacy ideas. For maximum sound dampening and visual screening, you can add layers, planting taller specimens in the background and medium shrubs and spreading groundcovers in front.

These privacy ideas can also incorporate vertical vines where space is restricted. Climbing vines cover trellises, fences, or arbors quickly, usually in as little as one season. Choosing evergreen species ensures your boundary stays lush even when deciduous favorites lose their leaves. Just be sure to select well-behaved varieties and avoid invasive runners like English ivy. The list below will hopefully inspire you to add vital layers of privacy in beautiful new ways.

Planting Privacy Plants in October

October is one of the best times for planting evergreen screens, shrubs, trees, and woody vines. While top growth slows down as air temperatures cool, the soil retains heat from summer. This combination encourages new plant roots to establish rapidly without the stress of hot late summer days. Roots settled now will continue growing until ground frost hits, giving your privacy plants a massive head start come spring.

When preparing your sites, focus on soil quality. Dig planting holes twice as wide as the nursery container to give roots room to expand. It’s also a good idea to mix organic compost or worm castings into the earth to improve moisture retention and soil structure. Try a handful of Earth Science Earthworm Castings from Amazon to enhance soil health in a gentle, organic way. For heavy clay or sandy soils, dehydrated organic amendments help to boost proper drainage, preventing root rot.

(Image credit: Nnattalli / Shutterstock)

Give some thought to your USDA hardiness zone and local climate. Regional considerations are key with fall planting. In colder northern regions (zones 3-6), you need to finish planting by late October, so roots settle before deep ground freezes. However, southern gardeners (zones 7-10) can plant through November. Finish each fall planting with a 3-inch (8cm) layer of organic mulch to insulate roots against freeze-thaw cycles. Let’s meet our privacy screens, hedge plants, vines and shrubs.

1. Skyrocket Juniper

(Image credit: Organica / Alamy)

When you need rapid vertical privacy in tight spaces, Skyrocket juniper is a brilliant needle evergreen. Hardy in zones 3-9, this pencil-thin cultivar grows 15-20 feet (4.5-6m) tall, while maintaining a narrow spread of 2-3 feet (60-90cm). Its dense, silvery blue-green foliage holds its crisp color year-round, creating a formal living screen along property lines, narrow side yards, or patio borders without encroaching on lawn space. You can buy Skyrocket Juniper Trees from Nature Hills for fast-growing vertical screening in narrow spaces.

Skyrocket (Juniperus scopulorum 'Skyrocket') thrives in full or partial sun, and adapts easily to lean, dry or sandy soils, if drainage is sharp. It’s very drought-tolerant once established, and requires virtually no pruning to maintain its spire-like shape. Plant it in a sunny spot, where it can receive at least 6hours of sunlight daily. Don't overwater or plant in poorly draining, soggy soil. Pair it with low-growing flowering shrubs or ornamental grasses for a stunning layered boundary.

2. Star Jasmine

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If you’re after a fence or trellis screening that can fill the space with unforgettable fragrance, star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is an evergreen vine like no other. Hardy in zones 8-10 (and grown in sheltered courtyard containers in colder zones), this twining climber has glossy, dark green leaves that remain lush all year long. As a pretty bonus, in late spring and early summer, it erupts with hundreds of starry, pure-white flowers that can fill the yard with intoxicating scent.

This evergreen climber grows rapidly, reaching 18-20 feet (5.5-6m) tall with sturdy support. It handles full sun to partial shade, though flowering is most profuse in sunny spots. It just needs a sturdy lattice, pergola, or wire trellis for its twining stems to cling to in the first place. Don't prune heavily in early spring, as it sets flower buds on old wood. In autumn, its glossy foliage can often take on attractive bronze or purplish tones in cooler weather. You can buy Expert Gardener Star Jasmine Live Plants from Walmart for quick-growing fragrance and year-round lush growth.

3. Fragrant Tea Olive

(Image credit: Magicflute002 / Getty Images)

Fragrant tea olive is a dense broadleaf evergreen shrub prized for intense scent and heavy cover in southern landscapes. Hardy in zones 8-11, this glossy green screen shrub produces glossy, dark green foliage that forms a thick barrier 10-15 feet (3-4.5m) tall. While its small flower clusters look subtle, they deliver a rich, sweet perfume reminiscent of ripe apricots and peaches during fall and early spring. You can buy Orange Flowering Fragrant Tea Olive from Amazon for its sweet scent and bright blooms as well as its dense year-round privacy screening.

Tea olive (Osmanthus fragrans) performs best in full sun to partial shade in moist, well-draining soil. Popular cultivars include Apricot Gold, which features striking apricot-orange blooms, and Butter Yellow for cream-colored flowers. Plant it near outdoor seating, windows, or entries where its fall fragrance can be appreciated. Just don't prune heavily in late summer, as blooms form on previous season's growth. It makes a lovely formal hedge or background screen with lower flowering perennials.

4. Broadleaf Rhododendron PJM

(Image credit: NancyKennedy / Getty Images)

If you want an evergreen privacy shrub that thrives in cold northern climates, while offering vibrant seasonal shifts, the PJM rhododendron is a gorgeous plant for privacy. Hardy in zones 4-8, this tough broadleaf evergreen grows into a dense, rounded shrub that is 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8m) tall. In spring, it fills with lavender-pink blooms. Then, in fall and winter, its leather-like leaves transform into a mahogany-bronze tone that adds rich color to snowy winter borders.

This rhodie handles winter wind and freezing conditions far better than traditional large-leaf rhododendrons. It thrives in partial shade and dappled sun, and only needs acidic, moist, well-drained soil. Top-dress with some pine needles or acidic leaf compost to help maintain optimal growing conditions into winter, and underplant with shade-loving spring bulbs or Japanese forest grass. You can buy Rhododendron PJM Elite Plants from Walmart for lush year-round interest at an impressive scale.

5. Carolina Jessamine

(Image credit: Orthosie / Getty Images)

Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) is a native evergreen vine that brings cheery sunshine color in late winter, as well as dense vertical screening. Hardy in zones 7-10, its wiry, reddish stems climb over fences, trellises, and arbors, reaching 10-20 feet (3-6m). Its glossy green leaves provide year-round privacy, while late winter and early spring bring clusters of bright trumpet blooms that attract early pollinators.

This low-maintenance climber grows happily in full sun to partial shade, plus a wide variety of soil types, quickly producing thick fence cover. It is naturally deer-resistant and heat-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for sunny fence lines, porch railings, or mailbox trellises. Just don't allow livestock or pets to ingest the plant, as all parts contain toxic alkaloids. You can buy Carolina Jessamine from Trees at a real bargain, plus there’s a discount code if you hurry.

6. Green Giant Arborvitae

(Image credit: Anand Purohit / Getty Images)

For fast, impenetrable privacy screens that form a feathery living wall, arborvitae Green Giant (Thuja standishii × plicata) is an impressive choice. Hardy in zones 5-9, this hybrid evergreen tree grows at an astonishing 3-5 feet (90cm-1.5m) per year, rapidly maturing to 30-40 feet (9-12m) with a broad base 6-12 feet (1.8-3.6m) wide. Its soft, fan-like foliage remains bright year-round without bronzing in winter cold. You can currently buy Thuja Green Giant from Trees for a very generous discount.

This quick-growing evergreen is very adaptable, handling full sun to partial shade and thriving in rich, moist, well-draining soils. Unlike delicate arborvitae varieties, it has exceptional resistance to heavy snow and is rarely bothered by deer. Just space each tree 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8m) apart for a tight, solid hedge, and don't allow young trees to dry out during their first season in the ground. These evergreens make an effective windbreak, noise barrier, or background screen along wide property edges.

7. Camellia

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Camellias are gorgeous winter bloomers, combining dense broadleaf evergreen privacy with jaw-dropping color, as many other plants are resting. Hardy in zones 7-10, Camellia sasanqua species grow into lush shrubs 6-10 feet (1.8-3m) tall. From October to December, when much else is dormant, they produce elegant ruffled flowers that pop against dark, glossy foliage. Buy Warm Hearted Ruby Camellia Plants from Plant Addicts for magenta blooms and a substantial upright habit.

Camellia sasanqua is more sun-tolerant and open-growing than its spring-blooming cousin (C. japonica), making it ideal for hedges. These vibrant beauties prefer partial shade, protected from harsh afternoon sun, and thrive in moist, acidic, well-drained soil. Use as formal hedges, specimen patio plants, or foundation plantings alongside hydrangeas and ferns.

Creating a private sanctuary doesn't require lots of extra tall wooden fences. By introducing a thoughtful mix of fast-growing evergreens, fragrant broadleaf shrubs, and lush climbing vines this October, you can quickly create a living, multi-layered green wall that shields your home year-round. Pick your favorite varieties, get planting this fall, and enjoy a secluded, beautiful garden for years to come…

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I don't know about you, but I'm always looking for a little inspiration to get me out into the garden as the seasons change. And if there's one person making fall cleanup look positively magical right now, it's Pamela Anderson.

The actor and gardening enthusiast recently shared a video on Instagram captioned, "A beautiful fall morning from the garden… another clean up day," along with a few of her favorite October gardening jobs.

Honestly, it's the sort of thing that makes you want to put the kettle on, pull on your gardening gloves, and spend a few hours pottering among your plants, Pamela Anderson-style.

Check it out:

A post shared by Pamela Anderson (@pamelaanderson)

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Moving through her garden in the soft fall light, Pamela has her pruners at the ready as she tends to her roses and gathers fresh produce, including carrots, tomatoes, and peppers. There's even a wonderfully whimsical soundtrack, accompanied by little murmured observations such as "the early bird gets the first worm."

Honestly, if all gardening chores came with that kind of fairytale atmosphere, I might be a lot more enthusiastic about getting them done. But beneath the dreamy aesthetic, Pamela Anderson's video is also a timely reminder that fall is an important season for garden maintenance (even if it's just to do this one expert-approved job).

Pamela Anderson's Fall Cleanup Advice

That's right, folks; Pamela Anderson's video isn't just a mood, but a blueprint for a well-functioning garden in the autumn.

With that in mind, then, here are a few jobs worth tackling now to help your plants make it through the colder months – and to make the most of any vegetables still growing in your beds.

1. Show Your Roses Some Love

(Image credit: Lars Forsstedt / Getty Images)

One of the first things that caught my eye in Pamela Anderson's video was her tending to her roses, pruners in hand. Still, fall generally isn't the time for a dramatic cutback, as hard pruning can encourage vulnerable new growth or leave plants more exposed to winter weather.

Instead, focus on what your roses really need in October and stick to removing dead, damaged, or diseased stems, along with fallen leaves and other debris around the base of your plants. And, while you may also be tempted to deadhead every spent bloom, remember it's worth exercising a little restraint. Some roses develop attractive rose hips that provide winter interest and a food source for wildlife, so you don't necessarily want to remove every fading flower.

If you're unsure whether your roses need attention, a little tidying is often better than reaching for the pruners with too much enthusiasm. Save any substantial pruning for the appropriate time for your rose variety and local climate.

Shop Fall Care Rose Essentials:

Pop-Up Rose Cones for Winter Protection – 4 Pack

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch

2. Harvest Your Fall Veggies

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Pamela Anderson's garden isn't just about beautiful flowers. In the video, she also gathers carrots, tomatoes, and peppers, which is a timely reminder to check what's ready to come inside before colder weather sets in.

If you've been growing vegetables this year, fall is a good opportunity to make the most of your hard work. Carrots can often remain in the ground until you're ready to harvest them, provided the soil conditions are suitable and it isn't at risk of freezing. Tomatoes and peppers, meanwhile, should be picked as they ripen, with any remaining fruit monitored as temperatures fall.

Regular harvesting also gives you a chance to assess which plants have finished producing and which might continue for a little longer. Once your vegetable plants are spent, you can remove them and clear away any diseased material, helping prepare your beds for the next growing season.

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Just remember that the best timing depends on your local climate and USDA zone, the varieties you're growing, and the forecast. If a frost is on the way, you may need to harvest tender crops sooner rather than later.

Still, there's something especially satisfying about bringing a basket of homegrown vegetables into the kitchen on a crisp fall morning. It's a lovely reward for all those hours spent watering, weeding, and tending your plants through the summer.

Let Pamela Anderson Show You The Way

What I love about Pamela Anderson's video is that she makes gardening look less like a checklist of chores and more like an opportunity to slow down and enjoy the season. Between the soft light, the whimsical music, and her gentle reminders to pay attention to the world around her, it's a welcome change of pace from the usual rush to get everything ready for winter.

Of course, not every garden needs the same jobs at the same time. Your climate, the plants you're growing, and the weather ahead will all influence what needs doing. But checking on your roses, harvesting ready vegetables, and clearing away diseased plant material? Why, they're all very useful places to start.

So, if your fall garden to-do list has been sitting untouched for a little too long, perhaps Pamela's latest video is the nudge you need. Grab your gloves, find your pruners, and head outside for a little while. You might even find that, with a bit of sunshine and a slower pace, those garden chores feel rather magical after all.

Fallen leaves start piling up in earnest in October, and a lot of homeowners rake every last one out to the curb as soon as they can. Honestly, it makes sense. A bare lawn looks tidy, and a soggy brown carpet of leaves isn’t much fun to look at all winter.

There’s a middle ground, though. Good fall leaf management means getting the thick stuff off the grass and finding those leaves a better home. Beds, borders, compost bins and vegetable plots can all use them, and whatever stays in the yard is mulch and compost you may not have to buy in the spring.

Some leaves need a little extra thought. Oak is slow to break down, and black walnut leaves contain juglone, a compound that can harm tomatoes and other sensitive plants, so it pays to know which trees are dropping what in your yard. Neither one has to go to the curb.

Why Fallen Leaves Can Damage Your Lawn

Why not just leave the leaves where they fall? Scattered leaves won’t hurt the grass – it’s the thick layer that causes trouble. After a couple of rains, leaves pack down into a wet mat that cuts off light and air, and left in place all winter, it can smother and weaken the turf underneath. That damp cover also favors snow mold. In snowier regions, you’ll usually spot it in spring as circular patches of matted, discolored grass, from either pink snow mold (Microdochium nivale) or gray snow mold (Typhula incarnata). Voles and mice like the cover, too, and a lawn buried under leaves can show more of their damage once things thaw.

So, you do need to keep on top of fall leaves – but there's no need to bag them. The rest of the yard can put them to good use with these clever ideas.

1. Improve the Lawn

(Image credit: JJ Gouin / Alamy)

Firstly, you don't need to remove every leaf from your lawn. If there's only a light covering, mow over it with a mulching mower instead. The finely shredded leaf pieces fall between the grass blades, where they quickly break down, feeding the soil and returning nutrients to your lawn without smothering it. If you’re shopping for one, the Ryobi ONE+ 18V 13 in. Cordless Battery Walk Behind Push Lawn Mower, available at Home Depot, includes a mulch plug, making it easy to switch between bagging and mulching.

However, once leaves become too deep for the mower to chop up properly, rake them off. Thick layers of whole leaves can block light, trap moisture, and damage the grass over winter. Rather than sending them to the curb, use them elsewhere in the garden.

2. Shred Them into Free Mulch

(Image credit: Katie Kirkland / Shutterstock)

Whole leaves can make lousy mulch. They often mat into a slick layer that sheds water. Shredded leaves are another matter – they stay loose, let rain through and break down faster. Set the mower on its highest setting and run it over a low row of fairly dry leaves once or twice. That gets them small enough for most beds, though big piles go faster through a leaf shredder, like the WORX 13 Amp Electric Leaf Mulcher, available on Amazon.

Spread the pieces 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) deep around trees, shrubs and perennials and water them in. By spring, you’ll have fewer weeds and soil that stayed moister and steadier in temperature.

3. Make Leaf Mold

(Image credit: Alamy)

Leaf mold is what you get when a pile of leaves is left to rot down slowly, and the result is dark, crumbly, and earthy-smelling. Don’t expect much in the way of nutrients. It’s more of a soil conditioner, improving structure, helping soil hold water, and keeping it mostly weed-free.

Chicken wire bent into a ring makes an easy enclosure, though a vented plastic bin like the Redmon compost bin from Walmart works too, or even just a big plastic bag left loosely closed.

Wet the leaves as you go. Shredded leaves can be ready in about six months, while whole leaves take closer to a year, and a pile nobody touches may take two. Dig it into beds or stir it into potting soil when it’s done.

4. Add Them to the Compost Pile

(Image credit: Maryana Serdynska / Getty Images)

Leaves are a classic “brown” ingredient, full of carbon but short on nitrogen, so a pile of nothing but leaves needs some “greens” to get going. Grass clippings and kitchen scraps both work – with clippings, about two parts leaves to one part grass is a reasonable mix – and keep the pile about as damp as a wrung-out sponge.

A compost thermometer, like the Reotemp from Amazon, shows you when the pile has heated up and when it’s cooling off and ready to turn. Dry leaves keep well, so stash a few RISETEX reusable leaf bags full of them for next summer’s grass clippings.

Oak and magnolia leaves are slow, so shred them first or give them extra time, and keep walnut leaves for a hot, well-managed pile, where juglone breaks down.

5. Use Them to Insulate Tender Plants

(Image credit: Konstantin Zibert / Shutterstock)

Picture a January afternoon warm enough to thaw the soil surface, followed by a hard freeze that night. Repeat that often enough and shallow roots and crowns can get pushed right up out of the ground. Leaves piled on top won’t keep the ground from freezing, and they aren’t meant to. What you want is soil that stays frozen once it freezes, instead of flipping back and forth every time the sun comes out.

Hold off until temperatures have dropped well below freezing, then mound shredded leaves over the crowns of tender perennials. Tea roses need a little more fuss: a ring of chicken wire or burlap around the plant, filled with leaves packed just lightly enough for air to still move through. Soggy, matted leaves sitting on a crown can smother it.

6. Feed Your Vegetable Beds

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Once the last tomatoes and squash come out, an empty vegetable bed has room for a deep layer of leaves. Spread 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) of shredded leaves over the soil and dig or till them in. They’ll keep breaking down through winter, and by spring the bed has more organic matter and microbes, better tilth, and better drainage to show for it.

It can take a lot of trips to haul that many leaves, and Home Depot's True Temper poly wheelbarrow has a roomy 6-cubic-foot (170 L) tub. On smaller beds, you can turn them in by hand with a fork – I like the Truper spading fork, available on Amazon. And don’t worry about oak leaves souring the soil. They’re acidic when fresh, but they break down to roughly neutral.

7. Create a Wildlife Habitat

(Image credit: HWall / Shutterstock)

Want more fireflies and butterflies next summer? Then leave some leaves. Not every corner of the yard has to look raked and finished. Pile some leaves under a shrub or along a back fence and leave them there through winter, and you’ve made shelter for beneficial insects.

Mated bumble bee queens hibernate an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) down in the soil, and a layer of leaves on top gives them extra protection. Firefly larvae use leaf litter for cover as well. So do woolly bears, the fuzzy black-and-rust caterpillars that become Isabella tiger moths. Look closely at an old leaf pile in early spring, and you might spot a swallowtail chrysalis or luna moth cocoon that’s hard to tell from the leaves around it.

When to Remove Leaves (and When to Leave Them Alone)

(Image credit: Nieriss / Shutterstock)

Lawns are the exception to all this leaf-saving. Any thick layer needs to come off before winter, and if you miss a spot and find a flattened, soggy mat in early spring, rake it up right away so it doesn’t hold back green-up. The True Temper 24-inch leaf rake from Home Depot has wide, clog-free tines that suit the job.

Keep an eye on the gutter out front as well. Leaves washed into a storm drain usually wind up in the nearest creek or lake, and rotting leaves there release phosphorus that feeds algae blooms.

In the beds, though, you can relax. Whatever falls under shrubs, around trees, and between perennials will slowly rot down and give nutrients back to the soil, just like leaves do in the woods. It’s kinder to the insects tucked in there, too, if you put off cleaning out beds until spring has properly warmed up.

I always remember what my grandpa always said. “That rake ain’t going nowhere, and neither are the leaves – there’ll be another round of them next October, and the October after that.” Each of those piles is free mulch and compost for the taking, so it seems a shame to send them to the curb.

There are two types of people in this world: those who put one pumpkin outside in October and feel good about it, and those who aspire to be like Martha Stewart. Every autumn, her entire staircase is lined with pumpkins and gourds that look like they were grown by expert garden design fairies. And, as usual, her comment section collectively decides to give up and beg for a tutorial on how to create a fall porch display.

Well, I consulted with a couple of experts to give you that tutorial, so just call me a younger, dark-haired Martha Stewart. If you squint, you won’t even see the difference.

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The Design Principles Behind It

(Image credit: peterspiro / Getty Images)

Before you even think about raiding a pumpkin patch, you’ll need to understand what makes this display look planned rather than like Halloween decorations set out at HomeGoods in July.

Preeti Shah, founder of Spotlight Style and luxury event producer of over 20 years, is clear on this: "A pumpkin display looks designed when it has a plan. Choose a tight palette, such as creamy whites, soft sage and one deep orange, and repeat it from the bottom step to the door. Vary the sizes, but group them in odd numbers, with the biggest pieces anchoring the corners and the smallest at the front edge. Leave breathing room between groups so the stairs still read as stairs. Then step back and squint. If one spot grabs your eye, move it."

According to Heidi Grasman, gardening expert and co-owner of Garden Crossings, the difference between an autumnal display that looks well-planned and one that looks thrown together on a whim comes down to one thing. She says, "Just throwing pumpkins on a porch is very Halloween-looking – adding in flowers and foliage makes it look decorated." Pumpkins are the supporting cast, not the main event.

Which Varieties to Choose

(Image credit: Alexander Spatari / Getty Images)

If you’re new to decorating and gardening in autumn, you might be surprised to know there are actually different varieties of pumpkins you can choose from. If you're interested in growing your own, you can even buy a Spooky Pumpkin Seed Mix from Seed Needs on Amazon.

The cream and white pumpkins that really anchor Martha’s display are usually Casper, Lumina, or Baby Boo. These all have smooth skin, clean color, and look exceptionally striking against a dark door or stone step.

If you prefer the classic deep orange, Howden or Cinderella (Rouge Vif d'Etampes) will give you that saturation that looks beautiful in fall photos and holds on to its color for several weeks. If you like things to be a little more unique, Galeux d'Eysines has tiny little wart-like skin, while Jarrahdale is a flat, bluish-gray variety. And if you love a good gourd mix as I do, these quirky, unique shapes will fill in the gaps in your display and can add extra interest to the front of each step edge.

Adding Flowers and Foliage

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If you're trying to get a similar display to Martha Stewart’s, think outside the box (or pumpkin) with some fall foliage. Grasman recommends using chrysanthemums as the focal point, with foliage doing the structural work. She says, “I like to use coral bells for foliage color, ornamental grass as a thriller or spiller, and then mix the mums in for flower color."

On choosing the right mum: "It's not so much about what variety to choose but where it is at in its bud or bloom stage. If they are looking for instant color, choose one that is more in bloom. If they are looking for the color to last a while, choose one that is just in bud."

Her advice on pumpkins within a planting scheme is useful too. She adds, "Let the pumpkins and vegetables be an accent, not the main show of color. Tucking some ornamental peppers, kale, cabbage into your fall combination planters can add a pretty touch. Let the mums be the focal point."

Shop Pumpkin Planters

Bokon Pumpkin Planters – Pack of 3

Wodellrrea Resin Pumpkin Planter Pot

Rosalind Wheeler Mini Low Pumpkin Planter

Grow Your Own for Next Year

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If you’re a purist and want to grow your own pumpkins and gourds for next year, sow them outdoors in late May or early June, or indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost. They need a lot of space (at least 6 feet in each direction for most varieties), but even a small patch can give you enough for a full stair display.

Sow two seeds per station, and once both have germinated, remove the weaker seedling by snipping it at soil level so only the strongest plant remains; then keep it well-watered once the fruits start to develop.

They are ready to harvest when the skin is hard and the stem is dry. Then leave them to dry in a warm spot for 10-14 days. This helps harden the skin, make the orange even orangier, and extend how long they’ll last in your display.

Remember this TL;DR version from Martha Stewart when creating your own autumnal porch display: Same palette, odd numbers, a little foliage, and enough breathing room between the pumpkins.

Rupert Jasper’s Inlay shelf looks assured: vivid blue, clean-lined and cleverly engineered. Its designer is more candid about the uncertainty that went into learning his craft.

There were plenty of days at Design Academy Eindhoven when Jasper felt completely lost. It was almost the point, he says:

“From day one, it’s kind of 100 per cent freedom, which is pretty daunting.”

From Deep Cove to Eindhoven

Jasper began closer to home at Langara College, where the two-year Design Formation program gave him a grounding in architecture, interiors, product design and other disciplines.

Product design was the one that stuck.

When the time came to continue his education, he had the option of Emily Carr University but decided to look further afield.

Design Academy Eindhoven offered a very different kind of experience, and Jasper’s German passport made studying in Europe more accessible.

“I felt like I had a bit of a golden ticket, and I thought I should really utilize this opportunity,” he says.

Eindhoven was less about being shown how to design and more about figuring out what kind of designer you wanted to become.

“You got to choose and craft your own education path,” Jasper says.

Tutors came from different disciplines and brought their own approaches. Jasper describes periods of uncertainty and identity crisis moments, but says learning to navigate that uncertainty has proved useful now that he is working professionally.

After graduating in 2025, he stayed in Europe for almost another 10 months, working with a couple of designers and taking on projects he enjoyed.

He could have stayed longer, but Vancouver was always the plan. “I really wanted to come back and work in Vancouver. It’s my home. I love it here.”

His route into ANDlight came with unusually good timing.

Jasper had previously met ANDlight co-founder Lukas Peet while trying to arrange an internship during his studies. The scheduling did not work out, but the connection remained.

About three weeks after returning to Vancouver, Jasper was downtown waiting to meet a friend for coffee when he stopped outside a showroom to look at a group of ANDlight fixtures.

Peet and ANDlight co-founder Caine Heintzman happened to walk up behind him. They were there to photograph the products.

The three chatted, Jasper mentioned he had just moved home, and later that day Peet emailed to say ANDlight was hiring in production.

“It was kind of a serendipitous moment,” he says.

Jasper spent about 10 months working on the production side before recently moving into the company’s design department as a junior product designer.

“I feel really fortunate,” he says.

More than a shelf

Alongside his work at ANDlight, Jasper’s been developing Inlay.

The system takes cues from mid-century wall-mounted shelving, with a pressed connector that adds strength and visual character.

This connection lets the shelving expand, contract and shift into different configurations, and Jasper is already considering how the same system could work for benches, tables and other furniture.

For IDS, Jasper finished the prototype in an almost electric blue.

Part of that was practical: he wanted it to stand out against the show’s white walls. Part of it was also a reaction to the region’s rather safer design palette.

“I find a lot of the furniture here in the Pacific Northwest is a lot of beige and softer colours, so I wanted to differentiate the piece,” he says.

Inlay was selected for the IDS Vancouver 2026 Prototype Judges Choice Award by Tanja Breadner of Marrimor Objects , David Keeler of Provide and Noah Morse of Sundays , in an exhibition curated by Kaito Forth .

The show also put Jasper in front of interior designers and architects — exactly the people who may eventually specify or work with pieces like his.

“To meet those kinds of people and to make those connections and hear what they’re looking for, what’s catching their eyes. That was really special,” he says.

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