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There are two types of people in this world: those who put one pumpkin outside in October and feel good about it, and those who aspire to be like Martha Stewart. Every autumn, her entire staircase is lined with pumpkins and gourds that look like they were grown by expert garden design fairies. And, as usual, her comment section collectively decides to give up and beg for a tutorial on how to create a fall porch display.

Well, I consulted with a couple of experts to give you that tutorial, so just call me a younger, dark-haired Martha Stewart. If you squint, you won’t even see the difference.

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The Design Principles Behind It

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Before you even think about raiding a pumpkin patch, you’ll need to understand what makes this display look planned rather than like Halloween decorations set out at HomeGoods in July.

Preeti Shah, founder of Spotlight Style and luxury event producer of over 20 years, is clear on this: "A pumpkin display looks designed when it has a plan. Choose a tight palette, such as creamy whites, soft sage and one deep orange, and repeat it from the bottom step to the door. Vary the sizes, but group them in odd numbers, with the biggest pieces anchoring the corners and the smallest at the front edge. Leave breathing room between groups so the stairs still read as stairs. Then step back and squint. If one spot grabs your eye, move it."

According to Heidi Grasman, gardening expert and co-owner of Garden Crossings, the difference between an autumnal display that looks well-planned and one that looks thrown together on a whim comes down to one thing. She says, "Just throwing pumpkins on a porch is very Halloween-looking – adding in flowers and foliage makes it look decorated." Pumpkins are the supporting cast, not the main event.

Which Varieties to Choose

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If you’re new to decorating and gardening in autumn, you might be surprised to know there are actually different varieties of pumpkins you can choose from. If you're interested in growing your own, you can even buy a Spooky Pumpkin Seed Mix from Seed Needs on Amazon.

The cream and white pumpkins that really anchor Martha’s display are usually Casper, Lumina, or Baby Boo. These all have smooth skin, clean color, and look exceptionally striking against a dark door or stone step.

If you prefer the classic deep orange, Howden or Cinderella (Rouge Vif d'Etampes) will give you that saturation that looks beautiful in fall photos and holds on to its color for several weeks. If you like things to be a little more unique, Galeux d'Eysines has tiny little wart-like skin, while Jarrahdale is a flat, bluish-gray variety. And if you love a good gourd mix as I do, these quirky, unique shapes will fill in the gaps in your display and can add extra interest to the front of each step edge.

Adding Flowers and Foliage

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If you're trying to get a similar display to Martha Stewart’s, think outside the box (or pumpkin) with some fall foliage. Grasman recommends using chrysanthemums as the focal point, with foliage doing the structural work. She says, “I like to use coral bells for foliage color, ornamental grass as a thriller or spiller, and then mix the mums in for flower color."

On choosing the right mum: "It's not so much about what variety to choose but where it is at in its bud or bloom stage. If they are looking for instant color, choose one that is more in bloom. If they are looking for the color to last a while, choose one that is just in bud."

Her advice on pumpkins within a planting scheme is useful too. She adds, "Let the pumpkins and vegetables be an accent, not the main show of color. Tucking some ornamental peppers, kale, cabbage into your fall combination planters can add a pretty touch. Let the mums be the focal point."

Shop Pumpkin Planters

Bokon Pumpkin Planters – Pack of 3

Wodellrrea Resin Pumpkin Planter Pot

Rosalind Wheeler Mini Low Pumpkin Planter

Grow Your Own for Next Year

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If you’re a purist and want to grow your own pumpkins and gourds for next year, sow them outdoors in late May or early June, or indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost. They need a lot of space (at least 6 feet in each direction for most varieties), but even a small patch can give you enough for a full stair display.

Sow two seeds per station, and once both have germinated, remove the weaker seedling by snipping it at soil level so only the strongest plant remains; then keep it well-watered once the fruits start to develop.

They are ready to harvest when the skin is hard and the stem is dry. Then leave them to dry in a warm spot for 10-14 days. This helps harden the skin, make the orange even orangier, and extend how long they’ll last in your display.

Remember this TL;DR version from Martha Stewart when creating your own autumnal porch display: Same palette, odd numbers, a little foliage, and enough breathing room between the pumpkins.

Rupert Jasper’s Inlay shelf looks assured: vivid blue, clean-lined and cleverly engineered. Its designer is more candid about the uncertainty that went into learning his craft.

There were plenty of days at Design Academy Eindhoven when Jasper felt completely lost. It was almost the point, he says:

“From day one, it’s kind of 100 per cent freedom, which is pretty daunting.”

From Deep Cove to Eindhoven

Jasper began closer to home at Langara College, where the two-year Design Formation program gave him a grounding in architecture, interiors, product design and other disciplines.

Product design was the one that stuck.

When the time came to continue his education, he had the option of Emily Carr University but decided to look further afield.

Design Academy Eindhoven offered a very different kind of experience, and Jasper’s German passport made studying in Europe more accessible.

“I felt like I had a bit of a golden ticket, and I thought I should really utilize this opportunity,” he says.

Eindhoven was less about being shown how to design and more about figuring out what kind of designer you wanted to become.

“You got to choose and craft your own education path,” Jasper says.

Tutors came from different disciplines and brought their own approaches. Jasper describes periods of uncertainty and identity crisis moments, but says learning to navigate that uncertainty has proved useful now that he is working professionally.

After graduating in 2025, he stayed in Europe for almost another 10 months, working with a couple of designers and taking on projects he enjoyed.

He could have stayed longer, but Vancouver was always the plan. “I really wanted to come back and work in Vancouver. It’s my home. I love it here.”

His route into ANDlight came with unusually good timing.

Jasper had previously met ANDlight co-founder Lukas Peet while trying to arrange an internship during his studies. The scheduling did not work out, but the connection remained.

About three weeks after returning to Vancouver, Jasper was downtown waiting to meet a friend for coffee when he stopped outside a showroom to look at a group of ANDlight fixtures.

Peet and ANDlight co-founder Caine Heintzman happened to walk up behind him. They were there to photograph the products.

The three chatted, Jasper mentioned he had just moved home, and later that day Peet emailed to say ANDlight was hiring in production.

“It was kind of a serendipitous moment,” he says.

Jasper spent about 10 months working on the production side before recently moving into the company’s design department as a junior product designer.

“I feel really fortunate,” he says.

More than a shelf

Alongside his work at ANDlight, Jasper’s been developing Inlay.

The system takes cues from mid-century wall-mounted shelving, with a pressed connector that adds strength and visual character.

This connection lets the shelving expand, contract and shift into different configurations, and Jasper is already considering how the same system could work for benches, tables and other furniture.

For IDS, Jasper finished the prototype in an almost electric blue.

Part of that was practical: he wanted it to stand out against the show’s white walls. Part of it was also a reaction to the region’s rather safer design palette.

“I find a lot of the furniture here in the Pacific Northwest is a lot of beige and softer colours, so I wanted to differentiate the piece,” he says.

Inlay was selected for the IDS Vancouver 2026 Prototype Judges Choice Award by Tanja Breadner of Marrimor Objects , David Keeler of Provide and Noah Morse of Sundays , in an exhibition curated by Kaito Forth .

The show also put Jasper in front of interior designers and architects — exactly the people who may eventually specify or work with pieces like his.

“To meet those kinds of people and to make those connections and hear what they’re looking for, what’s catching their eyes. That was really special,” he says.

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Sugar maples and burning bushes may be spectacular sources of fall color, but they are far from being the only examples of shifting seasonal hues. In many cases, the most popular fall plants offer only a brief burst of red or copper before dropping their leaves almost overnight. If you’re looking for something a little less predictable or fleeting, a few lesser-known options offer unique elements like berries and bark.

October presents a golden opportunity to show some love to these tough perennials and shrubs for fall color. Thanks to a combination of warm soil temperatures and crisp, cool air, they will hit their stride that much quicker. Shrubs and hardy perennials planted now can settle in with minimal stress, developing deep, healthy root networks long before the ground freezes.

Make some room for golden, swaying grasses, deep burgundy bark and stems, and bright berries to feed local wildlife. By expanding your palette, you’ll create a mult-layered and multiseasonal array of tone and texture. Hopefully, these shrubs and perennials will inspire you with diverse visuals that often sustain well into winter. Make more of these dazzling hidden gems for effortless fall color that can keep your garden glowing for months.

Planting Shrubs and Perennials in October

Getting plants into the ground in October is one of the smartest moves you can make. Unlike spring planting, where young roots must cope with rising heat and drought, fall soil holds abundant summer warmth while rains keep moisture levels consistent. This allows young roots and crowns to focus their energy underground.

Just make sure you select plants that will grow well in your USDA hardiness zone. In northern zones (zones 3-6), aim to complete planting by the third week of the month, so roots can anchor before soil temperatures drop sharply. However, in the south (zones 7-10), you can plant comfortably well through November.

(Image credit: Jorge Salcedo / Alamy)

Prepare your planting holes by top-dressing with rich organic compost. This gives young roots a gentle nutrient boost without forcing tender growth that could be damaged by early frosts. A little mushroom compost makes an excellent soil amendment for these fall plantings. Either add a little aged natural mushroom compost, or a handful of Espoma Organic Natural Mushroom Blend, available from Walmart. This is ideal for conditioning planting holes and encouraging deep roots.

Once planted, water your tough perennials and fall shrubs deeply. Apply a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) blanket of organic wood mulch or shredded leaves, as this will help to insulate the roots against winter freeze-thaw cycles. Then sit back and enjoy the lovely spectacle of color and texture these hidden gems bring all season long.

1. Fothergilla Mount Airy

(Image credit: Jorge Salcedo / Alamy)

If you were to choose just one underused native shrub for fall color, fothergilla (Fothergilla spp.) deserves the top spot. While famous for its honey-scented, brush-like spring flowers, autumn is when this compact shrub can really steal the show. Beginning in October, its leathery, witch-hazel-like leaves undergo a mesmerizing transformation, mixing vibrant shades of electric yellow, fiery orange, deep crimson, and rich violet on a single branch.

Hardy in zones 4-8, fothergilla grows 3-5 feet (90-150cm) tall with a neat, mounded habit. It flourishes in full sun to partial shade, though full sun produces the most intense colors. Fothergilla prefers moist, acidic, well-draining soil. Add mulch annually with pine needles or acidic leaf compost to maintain a low soil pH. Alkaline, chalky soils can cause leaf yellowing. Pair this shrub with blue-toned dwarf conifers or Japanese forest grass for gorgeous contrast. To enjoy these dazzling tones in miniature, you can buy Mount Airy Dwarf Fothergilla from Nature Hills.

2. Virginia Sweetspire (Henry’s Garnet)

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Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) is a native deciduous shrub that can even put traditional burning bushes to shame. Forming arching mounds 3-5 feet (90-150cm) high, Henry's Garnet produces fragrant, cascading flower spires in early summer. As autumn arrives, its glossy leaves shift to a saturated garnet-red and port-wine purple that survive further into late autumn than almost any other shrub. You can buy Henry’s Garnet from Plant Addicts for long-lasting shocks of crimson and purple.

Hardy in zones 5-9, it is highly adaptable. It thrives in full sun, partial shade, and even heavy shade (though sun yields the brightest red tones). It is tolerant of wet, clay soils, making it perfect for rain gardens, low-lying garden spots, or erosion control on slopes. Just water consistently during its first year. Don't worry about heavy pruning, as its natural arching habit is part of its charm. Plant it alongside yellow-foliaged shrubs or golden grasses for a rich border display.

3. Paperbark Maple

(Image credit: Bailey Cooper Photography / Alamy)

For structural elegance that combines dazzling fall foliage with year-round visual interest, the paperbark maple (Acer griseum) is well worth a spot. Growing slowly into a small, well-behaved specimen tree or large shrub, reaching 15-20 feet (4.5-6m) tall, its trifoliate leaves turn copper, ruby-red and scarlet in late October. After the leaves drop, its cinnamon-brown bark peels back to reveal polished mahogany wood that glows in winter sun. It may take a few years to develop those distinctive colors, but you can buy Paperbark Maple Container Trees from Amazon.

Hardy in zones 4-8, paperbark maple grows best in full sun to partial shade in well-drained, average-to-rich soil. It is virtually pest- and disease-free, and requires no complicated pruning. Just don't allow newly planted specimens to bake in severely dry, compacted clay without moisture. Underplant with evergreen groundcovers like vinca or dark hellebores to accentuate its cinnamon trunk.

4. Coralberry Magic Berry

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While most fall plants deliver on leaf color, Coralberry Magic Berry (Symphoricarpos) adds a pop of vibrant fruit. Growing into a rounded shrub 3-4 feet (90-120cm) tall and wide, in October its stems are filled with vivid clusters of pink-purple berries. These jewel-like berry clusters remain on the bare branches well into winter, providing valuable food for songbirds. For a softer bubblegum berry tone, buy Proven Winners’ Proud Berry Pink Coralberry from Walmart for exquisite late-season color.

Hardy in zones 4-9, coralberry handles full sun to partial shade and adapts to a wide variety of soil types, including lean or clay soils. Cut back stems lightly in early spring to encourage fresh, fruit-bearing new growth. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds now, which encourage leaf growth at the expense of berries. Interplant with dark purple ninebark (physocarpus) or golden panic grasses for a lush fall tonal contrast.

5. Pineapple Sage

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Don’t forget flowers for autumn joy! For late-season color just as frost approaches, pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) is an unexpected treat. True to its name, rubbing its soft leaves releases an irresistible pineapple fragrance. Rising 3-5 feet (90-150cm) tall, this fast-growing plant erupts in October with tubular scarlet flower spikes. These act as a magnet for hummingbirds and pollinators. You can buy Greenwood Nursery Store’s Pineapple Sage from Amazon as double starter pots.

Hardy as a perennial in zones 8-11 (and grown as a late-season annual or overwintered indoor pot in zones 3-7), pineapple sage loves full sun and well-draining, fertile soil. Plant in a warm, sheltered spot near patios – don't let it sit in waterlogged soil. In colder zones, take softwood cuttings in October or bring potted specimens indoors before freezes. Pair its scarlet blooms with purple salvias or dark sweet potato vine for a fall finale.

6. Arkansas Blue Star

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This unique perennial is native to Arkansas and Oklahoma, but easy to grow anywhere in zones 4-9. Arkansas blue star (Amsonia hubrichtii) is regarded as one of the finest native perennials, thanks to its fall transformation. Through summer, it forms a dense, feathery 3-foot (90cm) mound of needle-like foliage, topped with soft blue spring blooms. But in October, it turns a brilliant, glowing butter-gold and amber-orange, holding its color for over a month. Buy Perennial Farm Marketplace’s Arkansas Blue Star from Amazon as live plants for fine-textured, golden foliage.

Hardy in zones 4-9, Arkansas blue star is long-lived, drought-tolerant, and deer-resistant. It performs best in full sun and well-drained soil, but otherwise this plant is not picky and is easy to grow. Plant in full sun to prevent flopping and don't disturb established clumps unnecessarily. Shear foliage back by one-third after spring flowering to encourage a dense shape. Combine its glowing plumes with purple asters or blue sedums for a classic, high-contrast fall border.

7. Little Bluestem

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You may consider ornamental grass for texture and movement, but certain native grasses are also excellent for dynamic fall tone. Little bluestem is a gorgeous fall prairie grass option. Growing in neat tufts 2-4 feet (60-120cm) tall, its blue-green summer blades transform in October into rich shades of mahogany, coppery-orange, and warm purple, topped with fluffy, silvery seed heads that catch the light. For playful streaks of purple, Plants That Work’s Twilight Zone Little Bluestem Grass from Nature Hills is a gorgeous drought-tolerant native grass.

Hardy in zones 3-9, little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) thrives in full sun and dry, lean soils where other plants struggle. Don't overwater or plant in heavy shade, which causes stems to flop. Otherwise, you can leave the coppery foliage standing in winter to provide food and shelter for songbirds and winter interest. Interplant with goldenrod, coneflowers and amsonia for luxe designer accents.

(Image credit: Actium / Shutterstock)

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Japanese maples are deservedly popular for their spectacular autumn foliage, but there’s actually a native tree that deserves a place in the fall color spotlight.

Oh sure, it may not have the same name recognition as Japanese maple, but this little beauty certainly knows how to put on a show with its dazzling display of red, burgundy, orange, and yellow leaves each fall.

And, better still, this North American native's good looks aren’t just limited to the season of mist and mellow fruitfulness, either: its fragrant summer flowers make it a favorite with bees and other pollinators, and that strongly patterned bark makes it a standout feature every time winter rolls around, too!

The Native Tree Giving Japanese Maple A Run For Its Money

If you love the idea of a native tree that brings several seasons of interest to your yard (and all while supporting local wildlife, no less), than sourwood might be just the plant you’ve been looking for.

Unlike Japanese maples, which are often grown for their distinctive leaf shapes and elegant branching, sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum) offers a different kind of beauty. Its elongated leaves and naturally graceful branches give it a softer, woodland-inspired appearance that works beautifully in a naturalistic garden.

And the seasonal show doesn't end when summer arrives. In early to midsummer, sourwood produces drooping clusters of fragrant bell-shaped flowers that resemble lily-of-the-valley flowers (giving you yet another reason to buy yourself a sourwood from Nature Hills).

(Image credit: jlwhaley/Getty Images)

Now, its flowers aren't just pretty to look at; they also provide a nectar that is beloved by pollinators and beekeepers alike (no surprises there, considering how famous sourwood honey is). Then, after flowering, this native tree's blooms give way to small seed capsules that can persist into the colder months, providing additional visual and wildlife-friendly interest after the leaves fall.

Before you rush to plant one, though, it's important to note that sourwood naturally grows in woodland habitats in the eastern United States and generally prefers acidic, well-drained soil. In fact, it can struggle in alkaline soil and in ground that stays waterlogged, so be sure to check your soil conditions before bagging one for yourself. (It's easily done with something like Amazon's Rapitest Soil Test Kit for Gardens).

Shop Sourwood Essentials:

Nature Hills Nursery Sourwood Tree

The plant itself.

Dewilde Trading Co Soil Test Kit 140 Tests

Aim for acidic soils with a lower pH of 5.5 to 6.5 (or a netural soil).

Fiskars Fiskars 28” Garden Bypass Loppers, Tree Trimmer With 1.5" Cut Capacity

Be sure to prune only when dormant (and only to remove damaged branches).

Don't dismiss Japanese maple entirely, of course; it remains a wonderful choice for ornamental gardens, especially if you want finely divided foliage, a sculptural silhouette, or a compact specimen for a carefully designed landscape. If you want a tree that offers more than a single season of interest, though? Well, then sourwood is well worth considering.

This native tree's glossy summer foliage, fragrant white flowers, spectacular autumn colors, and attractive winter structure give it plenty to offer throughout the year, especially if you want to support pollinators without sacrificing ornamental impact.

Plant it for the fall foliage, then, and let the bees benefit along the way. And maybe pick up a jar of local sourwood honey, knowing your garden probably helped make it taste all the sweeter.

Kansas City Chiefs quarterback Patrick Mahomes and his wife, Brittany, have a fall entrance that’s just perfect inspiration for the season. Brittany, a former soccer player and co-owner of the Kansas City Current, shared a series of charming family snaps of their Halloween display on Instagram (see below). It suits the season without going over the top, looking like an extension of the landscape rather than decorations thrown together at the last minute.

Chrysanthemums, pumpkins, and integrated lighting make the entryway feel warm and inviting – exactly what you want if you’re welcoming trick-or-treaters or simply hoping to boost curb appeal in the fall.

The secret is to build on the garden you already have. Add the right plants, complementary colors, and strategically placed lighting for an autumn display that lasts until the frosts set in. Here are my five simple steps to help you recreate the look.

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1. Choose Mums That Last

(Image credit: Olha Solodenko / Alamy)

Mums – or chrysanthemums – are really the star of Brittany and Patrick Mahomes’ entryway, and they’re a classic choice for autumn containers. However, believe it or not, you can actually choose the wrong ones. You’ll want to choose hardy ones that last much longer and are suited to your climate rather than florist varieties intended for short-term indoor displays.

Choose plants with plenty of unopened buds for a longer succession of flowers than ones that are already in full bloom. Choose two or three complementary shades, like bronze, burgundy, cream, and golden yellow, and repeat these throughout your entryway.

Timing matters, too. Wait until nighttime temperatures begin to cool before adding chrysanthemums, and let pumpkins and gourds form the foundation of the display first.

Get the Look

The Plants

The Three Company Hardy Chrysanthemums in Assorted Colors – Pack of 4

The Planters

Bokon Terracotta Pumpkin Planters – Pack of 3

The Decor

Hyde and EEK! Boutique Classic Lit Fall and Halloween Pumpkin Jack O' Lantern

2. Use Plants That Transition Into Autumn

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Rather than spending a lot of money on replacing all the planting you did in summer, look for porch plants that add interest throughout the whole year. Ornamental grasses, heucheras, and sedums add some texture and color, even as summer flowers are fading, while shrubs and small trees with fall foliage can give the entrance a more established look.

Keep some of your existing summer plants if they still look healthy. A summer perennial can bloom early and then leave behind attractive foliage or seed heads that carry the garden into autumn.

Additionally, a trailing plant spilling over a container or a few late-flowering perennials can help bridge that between-season gap.

3. Use Pumpkins as Part of the Landscape

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Pumpkins and gourds can look just as at home in a garden border as they do on a porch. The trick is to treat (did you like that pun?) them as part of the planting design rather than scattering them randomly around the entrance.

Interior designer Preeti Shah, founder of Spotlight Style, recommends grouping pumpkins in odd numbers at different heights, anchored by one or two large containers. Place larger pumpkins toward the back or at the base of a display, then use smaller varieties to lead the eye toward the front door. “The difference between planned and decorated is restraint,” Shah says. “Pick two or three colors from your house, repeat them, and use natural materials.”

Look for colors already found in your brickwork, front door, or foliage to really help the display feel like part of your landscape.

4. Make Landscape Lighting Part of the Design

(Image credit: Mike Jarman/Alamy Stock Images)

Lighting can bring out the texture of ornamental grasses, highlight colorful chrysanthemums, and create a welcoming glow after dark. Rather than illuminating every part of the entrance equally, focus on a few key plants or architectural features.

Jarald Patterson of Christmas Light Supplier recommends aiming low uplights or small spotlights into the planting, rather than making the path edge the main attraction. He also suggests choosing warm-white lighting around 2,700K to complement autumn shades.

“Pools of light with dark gaps between them look intentional; even, bright coverage looks like a parking lot,” Patterson says. Where practical, hide fixtures behind containers or within planting beds, and ensure cables are safely installed and rated for outdoor use.

5. Build the Display in Stages

(Image credit: Olga Rolenko/Getty Images)

The most convincing autumn entrances develop gradually; it’s all in the phases. Begin with existing plants and containers in late summer, introduce pumpkins as autumn approaches, and add chrysanthemums when temperatures cool. Ornamental grasses, seed heads, and evergreen foliage can help maintain the structure as flowers start to die.

As Shah advises, “Add a few pieces each week, and the entrance keeps changing all season without a big redo.” That’s a relief for those of us who don’t have time for a big, sweeping redo of the entryway for every holiday and season.

By working with the garden instead of starting from scratch, you can create an autumn entrance that feels cohesive, seasonal, and inviting long after Halloween has passed.

Giving a clematis the right care in fall makes a real difference to how well the vine will perform next year, so gift this hard-working plant an hour of your time now for big rewards. We gardeners love the vast range of clematis varieties, some with huge blossoms and others with a froth of tiny flowers, with glossy green foliage providing the perfect foil for the generous blossoms. And as October rolls in, it’s time to tend to this favorite plant and get clematis ready for winter to ensure a great repeat show.

Clematis care in October is neither difficult nor time consuming, but it’s well worth your time. Give your vine a tidy-up, tie in new growth, water and mulch the soil and look out for powdery mildew which saps a plant's strength, and your clematis will be prepped to sail through whatever the winter weather throws at it.

There are clematis varieties to suit every spot, and plenty of vines that grow quickly without scrambling our of control to cloak bare fences and cover awkward structures in the landscape. And giving these useful garden plants the right care now will mean a healthier vine that'll survive winter well and produce plenty of flowers next year.

1. Lightly Prune for Health

(Image credit: Getty Images)

While no clematis should be heavily pruned in fall, it’s never a bad idea to do the 3-Ds trim, cutting back dead, diseased or damaged stems. If this fast-growing vine is swamping another plant or reaching into places it shouldn't, don't be afraid to remove unwanted stems now either.

Don't just jump in with the pruners though, as how much you snip off depends on which clematis group the plant belongs to. While pruning a clematis in October should always be limited, whatever type you're growing, it’s really useful to know which group it belongs to so you don't risk cutting off too many of next year’s flowers.

How to Identify Your Clematis Type

There are three types of clematis: some bloom on old wood in spring, others flower on both old and new wood, and a third group blooms on new wood in autumn. Don’t let this confuse you. Clematis are a little like hydrangea: you simply need to know which group yours belongs to, so you can prune it at the right time, confident that you’re not snipping off next year’s flowers.

• If your clematis was termed ‘early flowering’ or blooms March to May, it falls into Group 1. These vines bloom on the previous year’s growth (old wood) so should not be heavily pruned in fall, since every branch you snip reduces the number of flowers you’ll see in spring. Common Group 1 clematis include montana and armandii, and any major tidy-up pruning should be done when they finish blooming in late spring or early summer.
• If your vine flowers May to June, with perhaps a second flush of flowers later in the summer, it’s a Group 2 clematis, and popular varieties include ‘Nelly Moser’ and ‘Josephine’. These flower on both old wood and new wood (the current season’s growth) so any pruning now will reduce the first flush of flowers. The important times to prune a Group 2 clematis are a light tidy in late winter, then again after the first flush of flowers to encourage a bigger second flush.
• If your clematis blooms mid-summer through fall – and it’s likely still flowering now in October – it belongs to Group 3. Favorite late-flowering clematis that bring abundant blooms in fall include jackmanii and tangutica. These bloom on new wood so are safe to lightly prune in fall. However, save the main structural prune till February or March, when you cut all the stems down to 8-12 inches from the ground.

Now you know which group your clematis belongs to, you can decide just how limited this health-giving tidy-up prune should be.

If you have sweet autumn clematis, once its lush froth of tiny white flowers is finished, consider deadheading the plant if you are worried about self-seeding. Beautiful as its seedheads are, this vine self-seeds aggressively.

(Image credit: Getty Images)2. Tie Loose Stems to Their Support

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Tying new growth to its support is an esssential task to get clematis ready for winter. Clematis may be the optimal flowering vine, but these plants gets heavier every year so it's vital to give plants the right support. It's also important to check the ties already attaching older stems to the trellis are in good order before fall and winter storms arrive, and secure loose vines so they’re not snapped by high winds. This is about much more than aesthetics because a snapped stem invites fungal spores to settle in for the winter.

Velcro Garden Ties, available from Amazon, work well for clematis vine as the cut-to-length hook and loop tape holds firm but is quick and easy to adjust, and is endlessly reusable.

3. Deal Quickly with Powdery Mildew

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltc)

Powdery Mildew is a common issue for clematis in fall and while a late-season outbreak is rarely fatal, it can significantly sap the strength of the plant. It’s easy to deal with powdery mildew if you spot a dusty white coating on leaves by removing and disposing of the affected foliage. Make sure you disinfect your pruners with isopropyl alcohol, available from Amazon, so you don’t inadvertently spread this disease.

A garden waste bag with a top closure such as this Collapsible Garden Waste Bag from Walmart makes it easy to safely transport infected leaves to the trash can or tip – because you don’t want to add these fungal spores to your compost heap. A small rake like Fiskar’s Xact Hand Rake, available from Lowe’s, helps you get rid of infected plant material that’s fallen to the ground.

4. Water Before the Ground Freezes

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Plants need water even in winter but once the ground freezes, there really is no way to get water to the plant roots. So, add ‘water deeply’ to your list of gardening jobs to do in October and if fall rainfall is very sparse, deep-soak the roots once a week until the first freeze.

5. Mulch the Root Zone

(Image credit: Alamy)

Clematis plants are tough vines but their roots are surprisingly fragile, growing out in a shallow network rather than diving deep into the ground. Protect them from winter’s worst by layering a 2-3-inch-thick layer of mulch such as Back to the Roots Premium Mulch, available from The Home Depot, over the soil at the base of the plant. Clematis roots extend to around 2-3 feet wide, so be generous with the mulched area, but be careful not to pile material against the stems which will cause them to rot.

What Zone Do You Garden in?

Depending on your USDA zone, there are a couple of extra tasks to put on your October to-do list.

If You Garden in a Warmer Zone

All clematis species are vulnerable to clematis wilt, a fungal disease that can kill the vine. While it’s more of a problem in late spring and early summer, if you live in a zone with warm, humid days and cooler nights, clematis wilt can flare up in fall. Look for dry and withered leaves – some may even blacken – that doesn’t look like seasonal dieback. All this foliage should be trimmed out with pruners that are disinfected with isopropyl alcohol, available from Amazon, and thrown out. Get all of the diseased material, and your vine should be okay in spring.

If You Garden in a Cooler Zone

In colder regions (USDA zones 3-5), prepare your clematis well for harsh winter freezes. Wait until after your first hard frost before mulching, as without this cozy fall duvet, the plant will naturally prepare better for winter cold. Then apply a deeper 3-4-inch-thick mulch to protect roots. Mulching will also reduce the soil’s freeze-thaw cycle which can heave a clematis’ shallow root system out of the ground in cooler zones.

Pay extra attention to ensuring this season’s growth is tied in to a trellis or support, as heavy snow and ice loads are likely to collect on the dense tangle of stems.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Do these fall clematis care tasks and your plant will go into the winter strong and healthy, full of sensational seedheads and ready for another great season next year. One task you should definitely leave off your fall to-do list, however, is fertilizing your clematis. This vine is fast-growing and tough so doesn’t routinely need fertilizing to begin with, and certainly doesn’t need feeding in October with winter fast approaching. Instead, the plant needs to slow down its growth and harden off naturally before harsh weather arrives.

Every method of plant propagation has its bit of magic. It’s amazing to see a little green shoot emerging from a tiny seed or to watch roots appearing on the lower end of cuttings. But division has a huge advantage that seeds and cuttings lack: you start with one perennial, then, presto chango, you have two, or three, or four.

Dividing plants is a simple, highly effective method used to propagate perennials. It doesn’t require any technical or botanical knowledge. All you need to do is lift a mature perennial from the ground, then divide its root system into two or more distinct sections to be replanted.

But timing is important when it comes to division. Never try this in the heat of the summer, nor in the heart of the winter. Along with early spring, October is one of the very best times to propagate your perennials by division, as the soil is still workable. You want to dig the plant up, divide it into several rooted sections, and get the roots of the sections established before the first frost.

How to Divide Plants Successfully in October

It’s a good idea to get an overview of the division process before trying it on a perennial. The first rule to remember is that you can’t divide annual plants – only perennial plants have the established root structure that allows for this type of propagation.

Use a sharp spade or garden fork to dig a circle around the perennial before prying out the rootball. Then you might use two garden forks to divide the roots, although I personally find it easier to do by hand. Finally, do the actual division with something sharp, like a garden knife, a pruning saw, or a spade. Alternatively, a Root Slayer Perennial Garden Shovel, available on Amazon, is a multipurpose tool that lets you cut neatly around the plant, ease it out, and slice it into divisions.

Can you pause once the plant is out and divided? Nope, no rest for you at this stage. Immediately replant each division, and do so at exactly the same depth at which it was previously growing. Use your fingers to press down the soil and eliminate air pockets, then water thoroughly. If you're potting up divisions before planting them elsewhere, use a high-quality potting mix, such as Miracle-Gro Potting Mix from Walmart, to help the roots establish quickly before winter.

The newly created divisions will need adequate water until they establish. Water the soil around the plant several days before dividing, then deep water the sections immediately after they are in the ground. Keep the soil consistently moist for several weeks to allow the roots to re-establish.

Now, let's dive into the best plants to divide in October.

1. Hostas

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Hostas are shade garden favorites, but they can grow larger than you might expect. One great way to control plant size is division. Not only can you cut back the size of the clumps, but you get new ones as well.

If you decide to divide hostas in the fall, do it in October. Using a sharp spade or shovel, dig out the entire plant and place it carefully on the ground. Separate tuber clumps.

2. Sedum

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Sedums, also known as stonecrops, are clump-forming succulents that are easy to divide. You can divide sedum plants in autumn, right after they finish blooming. Use a garden spade or fork to dig out the plant with its entire root mass, then clip back the tallest stems to several inches. This makes them easier to handle. Chop the clump into smaller sections, each one with healthy green stems on top and a root cluster on the bottom. Plant each division in a sunny location at the same depth it was growing previously. Firm the soil and water thoroughly.

3. Peonies

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If your peonies are overgrown, divide them in the fall. They are somewhat picky about division, so be sure to walk through all the steps.

First, cut back your peony stems, then dig out the plant, including the thick roots. Set the plant on the ground, then hose down the root ball. This is important because you need to see the peony's “eyes”, which look like pink buds at the crown, and make sure each division has at least three eyes and strong roots. Replant the divisions immediately, placing the eyes no more than 2 inches (5 cm) below the surface of the soil.

4. Bearded Iris

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bearded irises are among the easiest perennials to divide. All you need to do is dig up the clump, prune down the foliage to about 6 inches (15 cm) long, then chop up the clump into smaller divisions. Afterward, let the plant dry for a full day, then replant the divisions. The top of the rhizomes should end up just at the level of the soil surface.

5. Astilbes

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Divide established astilbe plants every few years. Just dig them up, trim back the foliage, and divide them with a sharp shovel or spade. If the plant is too big to dig up, just cut out sections from the standing plant. Replant astilbe segments in a new site, watering generously.

6. Bee Balm

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Divide bee balm in fall after flowering ceases but before the first frost. Use a spade to dig around the clump, leaving plenty of room to make sure you don’t dig through the root system. Dig up the clump, lift it up, and shake out extra soil. Toss the center of the clump – it will be woody, hollow, or dead, and it won’t flower well again. Divide the plant with hand pruners, making sure each section has three shoots or growing buds. Replant bee balm plants at the exact same depth as they were planted before, tamping down the soil. Water well.

7. Bleeding Heart

(Image credit: Katie Feliciano / Shutterstock)

Divide bleeding heart plants in October, after the plant’s foliage has naturally died back. Dig out the root clump, then use a sharp knife to divide it into sections, each one with at least one growth bud. Replant immediately and water well.

8. Phlox

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Divide phlox at least four weeks before the first hard frost. October is generally a perfect time to do the deed. First, cut back the foliage. Then, use a sharp spade to dig up the entire phlox plant and chop the root clump into sections. Each section should have at least three shoots and some sturdy roots. Replant immediately and water generously.

How to Care for New Divisions Before Winter

The watering you give your divisions after replanting is very important. Be sure to water each one well, then water regularly to keep the soil moist.

Mulch the area around each division to help protect the new plants from winter chills. Apply a 2–3 inch (5–8 cm) layer of organic mulch, such as straw or pine bark, like these Timberline pine bark nuggets from Walmart, to insulate the soil and protect the roots from temperature fluctuations. Keep the mulch clear of the plant's crown to prevent rot.

Plant Dividing Essentials

Divide

Root Slayer 22011 Garden Shovel

Plant

Miracle-Gro Potting Mix

Protect

Oldcastle Lawn & Garden Timberline Pine Decorative Bark Mulch Nuggets – Pack of 2

If you’ve been growing productive pepper plants outdoors this summer, fall usually signals a sad goodbye. Because peppers are tropical perennials that cannot tolerate frost, autumn’s temperature drops generally mean it’s time to let them go. They aren’t hardy in most growing climates, so they tend to succumb soon after the first frost. However, there is a brilliant, creative indoor alternative: turning your favorite summer chili into a bonchi: a miniature bonsai chili tree.

This style of growing chilil peppers is about more than just overwintering. Bonchi (short for bonchili, aka bonsai chili) culture transforms your productive outdoor plants into stunning, living indoor sculptures that sit comfortably on a sunny windowsill. By hard-pruning the top growth and trimming the root mass to fit a shallow bonsai pot, you reduce the size to create a mini tree form.

So, not only does this fun project save your hard-earned plants from freezing weather, but it also gives you a fascinating head start for next year. Come spring, it's possible for your established bonchi to be kept as a productive, fruit-bearing indoor houseplant for years to come. This step by step guide shows you how to create your own pretty miniature chili tree. So grab your pruning snips, clear a spot on the windowsill, and let’s turn this season’s harvest into a lasting masterpiece.

1. Choose the Best Pepper

While all peppers (Capsicum spp.) are tender perennials, certain varieties adapt much better to bonsai cultivation. Capsicum chinense species (such as habanero, Scotch bonnet and ghost peppers) and Capsicum frutescens (like tabasco) naturally develop thick, gnarled, woody main stems early in their growth cycles, giving them an instant ancient tree aesthetic. Compact Capsicum annuum varieties like jalapeño and cayenne, plus ornamental varieties like 'Black Pearl' or 'Numex Twilight' are also stellar candidates thanks to their small leaves and abundant, colorful pods.

(Image credit: Bildagentur Online Contributor / Getty Images)

When selecting a candidate, look for a plant that has demonstrated outstanding vigor and heavy fruit production throughout summer. Choose a specimen with a thick main stem (at least thumb-width) near the soil line and balanced lower branching. Avoid weak, leggy plants or those showing signs of viral infections, such as mottled leaves or stunted stems. Healthy roots are important, too.

Remember, smaller-fruited varieties look much more proportionate on a miniature tree than massive bell peppers, creating a far more harmonious visual balance once your bonchi starts setting fruit indoors. It’s also worth grabbing a soil meter, such as the Raintrip Soil 4-in-1 Meter from Amazon, to give the soil a quick read as you assess the healthiest candidates.

2. Prep and Lift Before First Frost

(Image credit: Guido Mieth / Getty Images)

Timing is everything when transitioning outdoor peppers indoors. You must lift your chosen plant before the first hard frost, and ideally before night temperatures consistently dip below 50°F (10°C). Chilly winds slow down the plant’s metabolism, making root recovery much harder once brought inside. Water your pepper plant deeply 24 hours before digging. Damp soil clings to the root ball, reducing transplant shock and making extraction easier. Just make sure it is damp, not soggy.

Cut a wide circle roughly 6-8 inches (15-20cm) away from the main stem, slicing down deep to free the root ball. Lift the plant gently, shaking away excess soil to expose the roots. Before taking your plant inside, conduct a strict pest inspection. Outdoor peppers frequently harbor aphids, whiteflies, or spider mites under leaves. To help with pest inspection, grab a magnifying glass or loupe such as the Carson LumiLoupe 10x Stand Magnifier, available from Walmart. This handy pocket magnifier lets you inspect leaf undersides for tiny aphid eggs or spider mites before bringing plants inside (and they are really good value to have around the house).

Rinse the plant with a gentle spray, or apply a mild insecticidal soap drench to prevent unwelcome hitchhikers from invading your indoor setup.

3. Trim Stems and Roots

(Image credit: JulieAlexK / Getty Images)

Now comes the bit that might scare you if you are a beginner grower, but it is important: severe pruning. Don’t panic, peppers are resilient, and aggressive pruning is essential to force the plant into its compact bonsai habit. For this, you need the sharpest snips or scissors you can find. One team favorite is a set of Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips,available from Amazon. Alternatively, dedicated bonsai shears such as Garden Guru Professional Butterfly Bonsai Shears, available from Walmart, give precise cuts without harming the plant.

You need to cut the main trunk back to a height of just 4-8 inches (10-20 cm) above the soil line. Strip off all remaining large leaves and thin out weak or crossing side branches, leaving just 2-3 short, structural branch stubs to serve as your new tree framework. You’ll need to leave a few side stems in place to become branches.

Next, turn your attention to the roots. You’ll need to be able to see the taproot and side feeder roots. Trim the root ball down. reducing the volume by around 60-70 percent. Prune away thick taproots and long, straggly roots, preserving a compact, dense pad of fine feeder roots close to the base. This might seem drastic, but it balances the root volume with reduced top growth, preparing the plant for effective bonsai container gardening and allowing the plant to easily fit into a shallow dish.

4. Pot Your Bonchi

(Image credit: Westend61 GmbH / Alamy)

Selecting the right container can transform your pruned pepper into living art. Traditional bonsai containers are shallow, ceramic dishes featuring generous drainage holes. Choose a pot that can comfortably house your trimmed root mass with an inch of clearance around the sides. Ensure the container has adequate drainage, as standing water will rot pruned roots rapidly. Position the plant so the primary root flares sit slightly above the soil line, exposing the top of the root system to give your mini tree an established, aged appearance.

Soil choice is vital for long-term health. Avoid dense potting mixes, which retain too much water in shallow pots. Instead, use a free-draining bonsai mix, or mix 60% high-quality potting soil with 40% perlite or horticultural sand. If you need perlite, lightweight Legigo Organic Perlite from Amazon is an excellent choice, helping to prevent compaction in shallow bonsai potting mixes. Pack the substrate firmly around the roots, using a chopstick to eliminate hidden air pockets. Water thoroughly until water streams freely from the drainage holes.

5. Bonchi Care

(Image credit: Dmitry Marchenko / Alamy)

After the shock of severe pruning and repotting, your new bonchi needs a bit of time to rest and recuperate. Place in a warm, sheltered spot, away from direct, scorching sunlight and leave for one week to recover. Once new green buds begin pushing out along the trunk, move to your sunniest south-facing windowsill, where it can receive at least 6 hours of bright light daily. If winter light is weak in your region, supplement with a grow light.

Watering requires a careful touch during dormancy. Allow the top inch (2.5cm) of soil to dry out between waterings, as overwatering cold roots is the fastest way to cause root rot. Skip heavy feeds for the first month. Once active leaf growth is established, you can feed bi-weekly with a gentle seaweed drench diluted to half-strength. I recommend TPS Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon, to encourage healthy root recovery. As fresh shoots expand, lightly pinch back overly long stems to encourage dense branching and maintain a mini tree silhouette.

6. Pollinate for Peppers

(Image credit: José María Barres Manuel / Alamy)

One of the most rewarding moments of bonchi cultivation is watching delicate white or purple flowers blossom during the depths of winter. However, because your living room lacks natural outdoor pollinators, like bumblebees and wind breezes, you’ll need to step in as chief pollinator to help set fruit. Fortunately, pepper flowers are self-fertile, meaning each bloom contains both male and female reproductive parts.

Once flowers open fully, gently tap the trunk or flick the flower stems with your finger to release pollen. For higher success rates, use a small, soft watercolor paintbrush to gently swirl inside each flower, transferring pollen from the outer anthers to the sticky stigma. You can pick up Royal & Langnickel Taklon Art Brushes from Walmart for just a few dollars. These fine-tipped brushes are ideal for delicate pollination. Within a week, the petals will drop away, revealing tiny green pepper pods. You can then enjoy seeing fresh peppers ripening indoors while snow falls outside your window.

(Image credit: Shotshop GmbH / Alamy)

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One of the best things about The Celebrity Traitors right now? Jerry Hall, who is proving to be almost as delightfully kooky as her neighbor, Richard E. Grant.

Between the unexpected personalities and the wonderfully eccentric energy, many of us have found ourselves wanting to know more about the supermodel beyond the castle walls. Naturally, that led us down a little Instagram rabbit hole, and straight into her rather spectacular garden.

Now, I have to admit, I’m a little jealous of Jerry’s garden. Not only does the supermodel and actress have an enviable collection of plants, but she appears to have landed on one of the most effective garden color planting palettes without making it look overly designed: purple, purple, and a little more purple.

Jerry Hall's All-Purple Garden

That's right; Jerry Hall’s garden, which features wisteria and lilacs among its purple blooms, is a lovely example of what happens when you commit to one color family rather than trying to squeeze every shade of the rainbow into a border.

And while purple might seem like a purely aesthetic choice, there’s actually some very good garden-design thinking behind it. Before we get into that, though, check it out for yourself:

A post shared by Jerry Hall (@jerryfayehall)

A photo posted by

If you’re looking at Jerry Hall’s garden and wondering why all that purple flowers work so well, take a closer look at what’s surrounding them: green.

Now, green and purple are a favorite combination among professional gardeners, and it’s easy to see why; the contrast is strong enough to give a planting scheme some definition, but it isn’t so dramatic that it becomes overwhelming. Purple also has a slightly receding quality in the landscape, which can help garden beds feel deeper and more spacious.

That makes purple flowers particularly useful when you want a garden to feel abundant and interesting without looking chaotic. Rather than competing with every other color, a purple-and-green scheme gives the eye a clear thread to follow. And there’s another benefit: purple flowers can be particularly attractive to bees and butterflies, making them a valuable food for pollinators.

Shop Purple Plants:

CATMINT

EKT Nursery Purrsian Blue Catmint

Catmint blooms forever, looks beautiful, and doesn't go woody!

SALVIA

WAROON Purple Salvia Plant

Another fragrant perennial, salvia is an absolute pollinator magnet.

ROSEMARY

TANKDA Rosemary Live Plant

A classic upright rosemary boasts a fabulous scent and purple hue.

Tempted to try it for yourself? Of course you are, and I have good news for you on that front: you don’t need acres of garden – or a supermodel’s landscaping budget – to borrow the idea. Because... well, because you don't have to go full Jerry Hall

The easiest way to try the look at home is to think of purple as a thread running through your planting rather than a rule you have to follow religiously. Lavender (like this Grosso Lavender from Nature Hills) is an obvious starting point, while salvias, catmint, alliums, geraniums, pansies, purple-leaved heucheras, hellebores, and aquilegias can all bring different versions of the shade into a border.

Soft pinks can make the scheme feel romantic, blues can deepen the cool tones, and even brighter shades can work when they're anchored by plenty of green. All of which means that, no, you don't need to turn your entire garden into a purple paradise.

But after seeing Jerry Hall's? Well, I can certainly understand why you might want to.

I love peonies, but that isn’t something I announce very often among gardeners. It’s a little like saying “I love cheese” in France. Everyone loves cheese in France, and the vast majority of gardeners adore these large, plush flowers with their abundance of tissue-paper petals. That’s why a peony is called the queen of the flowers.

Are peonies drought-tolerant and the kind of plant that thrives on neglect? Not at all, but fans insist that their dramatic, over-the-top, lush beauty makes it all worthwhile. October is a key time for peony care – and I am here to give you the scoop.

Keep in mind that these glorious flowers come in three separate varieties: herbaceous, intersectional, and tree peonies. The steps you need to take in October will depend on which of the three types you have in your landscape.

1. Cutting Back Herbaceous and Itoh Peonies

(Image credit: Amy Draiss)

Of the three types of peonies, herbaceous peonies are the most common in home gardens. Their stems are not woody; they grow in spring and die back each winter. Itoh peonies, also called intersectional peonies, are hybrids, offering bigger flowers, stronger stems, and a longer growing season than herbaceous peonies. However, they also die back in autumn.

Cutting back your herbaceous and Itoh peonies is an important chore for October, but don’t jump the gun. As long as the peony leaves are green, they still are feeding the peony roots. Don’t cut them back until your area experiences a hard freeze. You will know because the foliage will turn yellow or brown. Once that happens, cut them back to some 2 inches (5 cm) above the soil. I like to use Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, available from Amazon, for this task because they make clean cuts that are less likely to damage dormant buds.

Once the peonies have been trimmed back, it’s clean-up time. Pick up all the messy pieces and toss them in the trash. Don’t think of dumping the debris into the compost pile. Overwintering there can cause fungal or mold issues.

2. Pruning Tree Peonies

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Unlike herbaceous varieties, tree peonies have woody branches that stay in the garden all year. Their flowers are larger than herbaceous peonies' blooms, and they flower earlier in the season.

The most critical rule when it comes to pruning tree peonies is: DO NOT EVER cut them back to the ground. Leave the woody stems and branches alone. Snipping off woody branches will reduce (or eliminate) next year's flower buds. October is not the time to do heavy pruning – wait for late winter.

On the other hand, you should trim off the mature seed pods in October. You’ll recognize them because they are leathery. Also clip off dead or dying brown leaves. While you clear these away, take the time to pick up other fallen leaves and plant debris from the base of the plant to prevent fungal issues.

If your tree peony struggled with fungal issues this year, thorough cleanup is your first line of defense. Then, in spring, consider applying a preventative copper fungicide, like Bonide Captain Jack's Copper Fungicide, as new growth emerges to help protect fresh foliage.

3. Divide or Move Established Peonies

(Image credit: The_Burtons / Getty Images)

October is a great time to divide or transplant peonies if the plants are crowded or are currently growing in shade. If you move plants in the fall, they will have enough time to establish roots sufficiently to bear spring blooms.

Whether you are dividing or transplanting, the first step is to dig up the plant. A narrow perennial spade makes the job easier, especially when working around established plants. The Radius Garden Root Slayer Perennial Shovel, available from Home Depot, has a serrated blade that helps cut through tough soil and roots, making it particularly useful for dividing mature clumps. Work carefully around the peony to preserve as much of its root system as possible.

To divide peonies, dig up a clump of roots with healthy stems and leaves attached, then separate it from the main plant with a sharp knife or perennial spade. Each division should have at least three buds; they will grow into next year’s shoots. Plant each division about one inch (2.5 cm) deep.

4. Water Newly Planted or Transplanted Peonies

(Image credit: VITALII BORKOVSKYI / Getty Images)

All newly planted peonies need a deep, thorough watering right after planting. This includes both new bare-root plants and all transplanted peonies. After that, water them weekly, or twice a week during dry periods, unless it rains. The soil should be moist, not wet. If you're unsure when to water, a Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available on Amazon, can help you check moisture levels before you reach for the hose and avoid overwatering newly planted peonies.

So, when should you reduce watering? Do it gradually in autumn, as temperatures drop. Once the ground freezes, stop supplemental watering.

5. Apply Mulch

(Image credit: BGWalker / Getty Images)

I like to think of mulch as a snuggy blanket for my plants, but it actually serves a bigger purpose. Mulch keeps the soil warmer, holds in moisture, and keeps down weeds. Autumn plant maintenance almost always includes mulch.

But when it comes to peonies, there are certain mulch rules that you have to keep in mind. First, established plants don’t need mulch. Only use mulch on new or newly transplanted peonies.

Second, don’t cover the buds (aka eyes). Instead of a snuggly blanket, apply a light, loose ring of mulch around each new or transplanted peony. This prevents frost-heaving during the first winter.

Third, pick your mulch type carefully. Don't use any mulch that can trap moisture since it can rot the crown. Instead, use a light layer of straw, shredded leaves, or evergreen boughs. If you don't have your own straw, EZ Straw Seeding Mulch, available from Home Depot, is a convenient option that provides insulation while still allowing air to circulate around the crown. Avoid compost, fresh manure, or sawdust.

6. Plant New Peonies

(Image credit: Darkwisper / Getty Images)

Autumn is one of the best times of year to plant peonies. Cooler temperatures and still-warm soil give new plants plenty of time to establish roots before winter arrives, setting them up for strong growth the following spring. Whether you're planting a nursery-grown peony or a division from an established plant, getting it into the ground in October gives it the best chance to settle in before dormancy.

Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil, and avoid planting the crown too deeply. The buds, or "eyes", should sit no more than 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) below the soil surface, as planting too deeply is one of the most common reasons peonies fail to bloom.

If you're planting into heavy clay or poor soil, mixing in a quality planting mix such as Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers, available from Walmart, can help improve drainage and give new peonies the best possible start.

Water thoroughly after planting, then apply a light ring of mulch around new plants to help protect the roots through their first winter, taking care not to cover the buds.

Shop Beautiful Peonies

Peony Roots – Pastel Mix

This dreamy pastel mix contains Bowl of Beauty, Sarah Bernhardt, Coral Charm, and Koningin Wilhelmina peonies.

Kansas Peony

Award-winning variety with strong stems and deep pink-red blooms that exude the most alluring fragrance.

Cora Louise Itoh Peony

This newly introduced Itoh peony has sophisticated oversized white flowers flushed with deep lavender centers.

Every September, garden centers fill up with potted chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum × morifolium), row upon row packed tight with promising flower buds. You might eagerly select two lush, rounded pots for the front porch steps, imagining weeks of rich fall color. But then, just a couple of days after bringing them home, you notice dozens of tight brown buds scattered on the porch floor, and the plant looks ready to collapse. And you’ll possibly conclude that you’ve bought a dud.

Usually, it wasn’t, though. In almost every case, that plant is healthy. The problem is lurking down in the pot, where nobody generally thinks to look. Mums (as they are affectionately known) are notoriously thirsty, fast-growing plants with dense root systems that devour water at an astonishing rate. Store-bought florist mums in plastic containers are frequently root-bound long before they reach retail shelves. Root balls can often lock up, depriving those thirsty buds of vital hydration.

The good news? You don't need expensive plant gimmicks or advanced skills to turn things around. All you need is a special soak – what I like to call the “bottoms up” soak, as it treats your thirsty flowers from the base of the plant. This special drink is all you need to pull your mums out of their slump before the rest of the buds are lost. It’s easy to carry out and the entire rescue takes less than 20 minutes, most of which can be spent with a warm cup of coffee while nature recharges your plant…

Why Buds Can Drop Fast

Commercial nurseries feed potted mums on intensive, high-nitrogen liquid fertilizers all summer to get those iconic domes of buds ready for fall. After months inside small plastic pots, fertilizer salts accumulate inside the potting mix. Sometimes this shows up as a white crust around the rim of the pot, but sometimes it doesn’t show at all.

As soil moisture evaporates, salt concentrations spike. The more concentrated those salts get, the harder it is for roots to pull in water. This can create an osmotic lock where the roots are blocked from absorbing moisture, even if the soil still feels damp to your touch. Once potted mums arrive on your sunny porch or patio, environmental stress compounds the problem. Bright fall sunlight and steady winds can dry a root-packed nursery pot to the core in under 12 hours.

(Image credit: Anucha Muphasa / Alamy)

When roots run dry, the plant makes a survival choice: it sheds its flower buds to preserve moisture for the stems. Growers may mistake bud drop for pest infestations or drafts, reaching for insecticides or overwatering from the top, which exacerbates root rot. Any buds that have turned crisp, dry, or dark brown are done, so gently pinch those off with your fingers or snip them with fine scissors or snips like team favorite Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon. That way, “bad buds” don't wind up hosting gray mold (botrytis). Those plump, healthy, tight green buds, however, are just waiting to be saved…

1. Do the Bottoms Up Soak

(Image credit: Yulyao / Getty Images)

Before soaking, perform the weight test. Lift the pot by the rim: if it feels heavy and water squishes up around your thumb, poor drainage or root rot is the issue, and soaking won't help. If the pot feels light as a feather, it's severely dehydrated. Be sure to strip off any decorative foil sleeves immediately! Foil wraps trap stagnant water against lower roots, inviting fungal disease. In dry nursery pots, peat-based potting soil shrinks away from the pot creating a gap down which top-poured water simply spills out of the drainage holes, leaving the dense central root core bone dry.

To execute the "bottoms up" soak, fill a shallow tub, bucket or washbasin with 3-4 inches (8-10cm) of room-temperature water. Collected rainwater or distilled water is ideal, as it carries zero chlorine or mineral salts. A flexible tub such as the Tubtrug Original Flexible Tub from Amazon is ideal for bottom-soaking a big mum.

Lower the nursery pot into the water so the lower half sits submerged. Let capillary action draw water upwards directly into the compacted root core for 15-20 minutes. You'll know it's ready when the top surface of the soil turns dark, damp, and cool to the touch. Severely shrunken pots may need up to 30 minutes. Lift the pot out and allow excess water to drain freely. After this time, you are ready for a quick top-flush.

2. Flush Salts from the Top

(Image credit: Chriss_NS / Getty Images)

This is the crucial secondary step that is easy to skip – but please don’t. The natural impulse is to stop once the pot feels heavy again after its bath. While bottom-soaking saturates dry peat, water moving upward carries dissolved fertilizer salts toward the upper root zone rather than removing them. Leaving those concentrated salts in the soil will trigger another round of bud drop within a week. So the flush is crucial!

To complete your mum rescue, take the potted mum to an outdoor sink, gravel path, or garden bed where drainage can escape freely. Using room-temperature water, slowly pour a generous stream directly over the top of the potting soil until water streams out the drainage holes. Pause for a couple of minutes, then repeat the process. If you need a good watering can, a 2-gallon model like the Bloem Deluxe Mint Green Watering Can from The Home Depot holds plenty for both passes.

This top-flush washes away dissolved fertilizer salts and flushes out stagnant material from the roots. Never allow the pot to sit in its own drained runoff, as the roots will reabsorb those flushed salts. Once flushed, refrain from applying synthetic fertilizer for the rest of the bloom season. The plant already has more than enough stored energy to open its remaining buds. The combination of these steps is what helps to rehydrate stubborn peat soils, dissolve fertilizer crusts, and restore root flow.

3. After the Soak: Repotting

(Image credit: Katrin Ray Shumakov / Getty Images)

Once your mum is rehydrated and flushed, a pot upgrade will help protect swelling buds for longer. While repotting in full bud may create slight stress, keeping it trapped in a cramped 6-8-inch (15-20cm) plastic nursery pot is likely to prompt further drying cycle crashes. The gentlest approach is potting on. Slide the root ball out of its plastic sleeve. Place it directly into a container 2-4 inches (5-10cm) wider, backfilling the gap with fresh potting soil. Self-watering planters with built-in drainage reservoirs work brilliantly. Tierra Verde Citadel Horizon Self-Watering Planters from Amazon have sleek, classic lines to show off bright mum colors.

Placement is your final secret weapon for long-lasting October blooms. While mums need sunlight to flower, placing them in scorching, full-day heat causes open blooms to fade rapidly. Aim for bright morning sunlight paired with some afternoon shade, such as a covered front porch or eastern-facing patio. Cooler microclimates slow down water loss and keep open flower heads crisp and vibrant for weeks longer.

If you are growing hardy garden mums intended for permanent beds, keep them well-watered in their new pots until flowers finish, then plant them into beds 4 weeks before ground freezes are anticipated. Use excellent Bloem 12-Inch Heavy Duty Terracotta Plant Caddies, available from Walmart, to move heavier mum containers into position. Their caster wheels make light work of moving heavy pots.

Fall Mum Essentials

(Image credit: Antonio Siwiak /Alamy)

Once your mums have perked up, make sure you get the most out of their blooming season. Tending to your potted blooms with gentle tonics, tools, and root conditioners makes it possible to maintain vibrant porch displays into November. These curated essentials help you rescue, protect, and enjoy your flowers for longer.

Moisture Meter

Raintrip Soil Moisture Meter, 4-In-1 Tester

Never guess when your mums need water again! This instant-read dual probe checks deep moisture levels right at the central root core while measuring ambient light conditions. It takes all the guesswork out of daily care, ensuring you hydrate your plants only when necessary to prevent both dehydration crashes and root rot.

Mineral Drench

Down To Earth All Natural Fertilizers Down to Earth All Natural Organic Kelp Meal

This gentle, non-burning amendment is packed with enzymes and trace minerals to strengthen plant cell walls as weather changes. It helps stressed roots recover rapidly from dehydration, while encouraging unopened buds to swell and bloom reliably.

Rehydration Booster

Espoma Espoma Natural Mushroom Compost Blend

Rich in natural humus, beneficial microbes, and organic matter, mixing a few handfuls of this compost into your repotting mix dramatically improves moisture retention around root balls. It acts as a natural micro-sponge that holds onto water and prevents peat-based soils from shrinking or drying out in fall winds.

Seeing your mums drop tight buds is disheartening, but it doesn't mean your fall display is over! By giving dehydrated roots this 15-minute soak and flushing away accumulated nursery salts, you’ll give those remaining buds the hydration boost they need to open into a lovely long-lasting dome of fall color. So grab a bucket, give your thirsty mums a quick bath today, and enjoy a vibrant front porch all autumn long.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Even in fall, your garden is full of potential and taking cuttings in October that will quickly root to become new plants is such a cost-effective way to bulk up next year's borders. It really couldn’t be easier, so even if you’re a beginner gardener or you’ve never tried this propagation method before, taking cuttings in fall should definitely be on your list of gardening jobs to do in October.

There’s a big advantage to rooting plant cuttings in fall because the current season’s growth is mature. Protected by a tougher exterior, the stems are far more resilient to drying out than softwood cuttings taken in summer. Lavender, rosemary, fuchsia, holly and boxwood all respond really well to fall propagation, so you can clone some of your garden favorites to get new plants for free.

Ready to have a go? Here’s exactly what to do.

How to Take Cuttings in October

All these plants can be propagated in October using semi-ripe cuttings, also called semi-hardwood cuttings. Don't be confused by this gardening jargon – it simply means that you’ll be using stems that are woody at the base but green and flexible at the top.

1. Snip a Stem

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Choose a strong plant and then a healthy stem with leaves but no flowers. Look for recent growth that has firmed up but isn’t totally woody yet – a suitable stem will snap and make a clean break when bent.

Use bypass pruning shears such as these Fiskars SoftGrip Bypass Hand Pruners from Lowe’s and make sure the blades are razor sharp. Sharpening pruner blades takes moments with a cheap tool like this Sharpal Garden Tool Sharpener from Amazon and will make a huge difference to how well your cuttings root. Super-sharp blades will slice cleanly through the stem rather than crushing and bruising it, which is one of the main reasons cuttings fail. For the same reason, don’t use anvil pruners as their crushing action will bruise delicate stem tissue.

Make a cut just below a leaf node, where a leaf joins the stem. Each cutting should be about 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) long, and at this time of the year use the top of stems where growth hormones are concentrated. Remove the lower leaves, preserving a few at the top.

2. Pop it Into Potting Mix

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltc)

Fill a small pot with a sterile rooting medium that drains well – a soil-less mix such as this Propagation Planting Mix from Amazon is ideal. Poke a pencil into the mix to make a hole and pop 1-1½ inches of your cutting, cut end first, in. Dipping the cut end in a rooting hormone such as Garden Safe Take Root, available from Walmart, speeds success with some plants but this step isn’t always necessary. What is vital, however, is that at least one bare leaf node is submerged in the mix, but no leaves are beneath the surface.

3. Water

(Image credit: Future)

Gently use your fingers to firm the soil around the cutting then water to settle the mix. Now pop a clear plastic bag – a resealable sandwich bag like these from Amazon work well as the zipper closure gives some rigidity – over the pot to make a mini-greenhouse. Use a rubber band around the pot to secure it in place if needs be. Stand this in a spot with bright, indirect light that’s away from cold drafts.

Because the cutting has leaves to support but no roots to supply moisture, you need to keep the rooting medium moist and provide some humidity. The plastic bag will trap moisture inside but mist the leaves every few days if needs be, or reduce moisture by wiping any very heavy condensation.

4. Watch for Fresh Growth

(Image credit: Getty Images)

In a few weeks, you should spot fresh leaves beginning to unfold, which means your cutting has rooted. If there’s no sign of new growth after a month, try giving the stem a very gentle upwards tug – if there’s any resistance, there are roots. A successful cutting will also look firm and plump, while an unsuccessful one will be starting to shrivel by now.

As soon as you know the cutting has rooted, it can come out of its little nursery greenhouse. You'll need to acclimatise the baby plant slowly, so snip off the corners of the bag to let some fresh air in, then snip a little more off the following day and remove the bag entirely on the third day. You’ll now need to keep your young plant watered, and tend it over winter ready to plant out next spring.

(Image credit: Getty Images)5 Plants to Propagate This Way in OctoberRosemary

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Rosemary propagates readily from semi-hardwood cuttings. Choose healthy stems that are still flexible, not totally woody, and without any flowers. Make sure the rooting medium you use for the cutting drains very well as rosemary will not tolerate excess moisture. If your climate is mild, you may be able to keep it outdoors in a sheltered area with bright light. If not, keep inside by a window all winter.

Lavender

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Lavender is similar to rosemary in that it will readily propagate now. Taking lavender cuttings is such an easy way to propagate lavender, and family and friends will love a gift of this popular plant in spring. Avoid the woody stems and choose a flexible stem to cut. Use a rooting mix that drains very well and make sure it never gets too soggy. Overwinter lavender cuttings inside in colder climates.

Fuchsia

(Image credit: Sakss / Shutterstock)

Most fuchsias are hardy in zones 6 through 11, but leaving them outdoors in winter can be a little risky so taking cuttings and keeping them indoors for the winter gives you a back-up plan. Take a cutting from a healthy, non-flowering stem, and root it in a quality rooting mix.

Boxwood

(Image credit: Fotolinchen / Getty Images)

Some evergreen plants can be propagated from cuttings right now and this an easy way to save money on spring landscaping. Look for semi-hardwood stems to cut that are mature but not totally hardened or woody.

Root your boxwood cuttings in a medium that drains well, and be patient. These cuttings will take a little time to develop adequate roots. For this reason, it’s a good idea to overwinter your new plants indoors rather than trying to get them in the ground outside before winter. It’s also a good idea to take more cuttings than you think you need, in case some fail to root.

Holly

(Image credit: Kira Yan / Getty Images)

Like boxwoods, holly can be rooted from semi-hardwood cuttings. Look for healthy stems, and take more cuttings than you want because, as with boxwoods, these cuttings take longer to root and may not all be successful. Keep your cuttings and potted new plants indoors in a spot with indirect light and good levels of humidity.

Propagating your favorite plants now is so rewarding, and a very cost-efficient way to boost next year’s garden. October cuttings require a little more time and patience than spring and summer cuttings, but they’re so easy as long as you have a little patience. If you are in doubt about cold-weather tolerance, keep cuttings indoors all winter and put your new plants outside only when the weather has warmed in spring.

They say if you want to live and thrive, let the spider run alive (which can be hard to remember in the moment), and that feels even more true when the eight-legged critter in question is your birth month spider.

Birth flowers, birthstones, and zodiac signs have long provided us little excuses to find something that feels oddly specific to you. And we’re already familiar with, too, the idea of a birth month bird, birth month animal, and birth month bug , but why should they have all the fun?

If you're willing to look past the fact that spiders are considerably less cuddly than most birth month symbols, I think they make a surprisingly good match. There are thousands of spider species around the world, after all; some are tiny and easy to overlook, while others are spectacular creatures with intricate webs, extraordinary colors and some seriously impressive hunting skills. So you'd best believe there's one that matches you out there...

All 12 Birth Month Spiders

Keen to find out your birth month spider, then? Of course you are! I've matched each month with a spider based on personality traits commonly associated with people born at that time of year. Think of it as a little bit of nature, a little bit of personality quiz and a good excuse to appreciate the spiders living around us.

So, grab yourself a BugView 5X Magnifying Glass from Carson, and let's see which spider you've been given...

January – Jumping Spider

(Image credit: Getty Images)

January is often associated with ambition, determination and a willingness to start something new. That makes the jumping spider – every bit as curious, clever and full of energy – a pretty good fit for you.

Jumping spiders are active hunters rather than relying on large webs to catch their meals. They have excellent vision for their size and can make surprisingly precise jumps when pursuing prey. If you're a January baby, you're apparently the type who likes to investigate, explore and figure things out for yourself.... and you probably don't like sitting around waiting for something to happen, either!

February – Crab Spider

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Independent thinkers with a calm and thoughtful side, I'm giving February babies the crab spider. Widely considered to be masters of patience, these arachnids – rather than rushing around looking for prey – tend to sit quietly on flowers or foliage and wait for an insect to come within reach.

They can also be remarkably adaptable, with some species able to change their appearance to blend into their surroundings. In other words, you know when to make yourself noticed – and when it's smarter to sit back and wait.

Shop Spider Viewers:

Carson Bugview 5x Magnifying Glass Quick-Release Bug Catcher

Beautyflier Small Insect Magnifier Bug Magnifying Viewer

HAIMST Bug Catcher for Kids

March – Wolf Spider

(Image credit: Getty Images)

March is a month of change, so it seems fitting that its spider is one that doesn't wait around for an opportunity. Wolf spiders are active hunters as, instead of relying on a web to capture prey, they move across the ground in search of it.

They're also surprisingly devoted mothers. Female wolf spiders carry their egg sacs with them, and once the spiderlings hatch, the tiny babies can climb onto their mother's back. So if you're a March baby, you're apparently independent and tough – but with a softer side that comes out for the people you care about.

April – Nursery Web Spider

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Caring and dependable, April is often associated with optimism, renewal and a generous spirit, so the nursery web spider feels like a natural match.

No surprises, then, that this spider gets its name from the nursery web the female creates for her young. She carries her egg sac with her before eventually placing it somewhere safe and guarding the spiderlings once they hatch.

There's something rather endearing about that, right? Especially as it means you're the dependable one in your friendship group – the person people know they can turn to when they need someone.

May – Green Lynx Spider

(Image credit: Getty Images)

May babies are often associated with energy, sociability and curiosity, which makes the green lynx spider a really fun match!

This striking birth month spider is an active predator that often waits among plants for prey. Its coloring helps it blend into vegetation, allowing it to get surprisingly close to insects before making its move.

You're confident, alert and quick-thinking, and probably not someone who misses much; just like your eight-legged pal, you notice what's going on around you, think quickly and aren't afraid to act when the moment is right. Win!

June – Garden Orb-Weaver

(Image credit: Getty Images)

June is the month for the spider with one of nature's most impressive architectural skills, and orb-weaving spiders create those classic, wheel-shaped webs that seem almost impossibly precise. Their webs are functional, delicate and beautiful all at once.

Creative, then? Organized? A (whisper it!) perfectionist? All of this makes the garden orb-weaver a perfect match for June babies, who are often described as creative, detail-oriented and adaptable. You like things done properly – and preferably beautifully, too.

July – Fishing Spider

(Image credit: Getty Images)

July babies are often associated with confidence, spontaneity and a love of adventure: enter, then, the fishing spider. These impressive spiders are associated with ponds, streams and other bodies of water, and some species can move across the surface of the water while hunting.

They're not afraid to venture somewhere most spiders wouldn't, basically. If this is your birth month spider, then, you're probably the person who hears “you probably shouldn't do that” and immediately becomes more interested in doing it.

August – Golden Silk Orb-Weaver

(Image credit: Getty Images)

August is not a month for blending into the background, so the golden silk orb-weaver is a suitably spectacular birth month spider. These spiders are known for their large webs, distinctive golden silk and striking appearance. Female golden silk orb-weavers can also be dramatically larger than males.

They're attention-grabbers, then – in the best possible way. If you're an August baby, you're more than confident enough to take centerstage when you want to, and comfortable being noticed when you do.

Choose Plants That Attract More Flying Insect:

Crimson Comet Buttonbush - #3 Container

Rosie Josie Joe - Pye Weed

Northern Sea Oats Grass

September – Wasp Spider

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Confident, dramatic and fiercely individual, September babies often get described as organized, intelligent and self-assured. They also get one of the most spectacular-looking critters on this list of birth month spiders, as it has bold black-and-yellow markings that make it almost impossible to mistake for anything else.

As if that weren't enough, its large web often includes a distinctive zigzag of silk. Subtle? Absolutely not, but if you're a September baby, you're apparently someone who knows who they are and isn't particularly interested in disappearing into the crowd.

And honestly, why would you?

October – Four-Spotted Orb-Weaver

(Image credit: Getty Images)

October has to get something a little mysterious as its birth month spider, so who better to take that spot than the four-spotted orb-weaver is a striking spider, with four pale spots on its abdomen and a remarkable amount of variation in its coloring. In Britain, it's particularly associated with late summer and fall, making it an especially appropriate choice for October.

People born in October are often described as intuitive, perceptive and a little difficult to read, so this feels right; while you may not always be the loudest person in the room, but you're paying attention – and you probably notice considerably more than people realize.

November – False Widow

(Image credit: Getty Images)

November babies are resilient, intense and misunderstood, so obviously they get one of the spiders with the biggest reputations.

False widows have developed something of a sinister image, but like most spiders, they're simply predators trying to catch small prey and survive. That makes them a surprisingly good match for November, a month often associated with intensity, independence and resilience.

People may make assumptions about you before they really know you. Their loss, quite frankly.

December – Money Spider

(Image credit: Getty Images)

You're optimistic, resourceful and lucky, so your birth month spider, and it comes with some irresistible symbolism in the money spider.

These tiny spiders are common in British gardens, and folklore has long associated them with good luck and prosperity. They're small and easy to overlook, but they're remarkably widespread and successful, and that seems fitting for December babies.

Basically, you don't necessarily need to be the biggest presence in the room to make an impression... and a little luck certainly doesn't hurt.

I'll admit that I didn't expect to love the idea of birth month spiders, but the more I looked at them, the more I liked the idea. Spiders are so often treated as creepy garden intruders, when they're actually fascinating little predators that play an important role in the ecosystem.

The next time you spot one in your garden, perhaps take a second look before reaching for the broom (or, my favourite, the glass and paper combo); that little arachnid might be doing some useful work among your plants. And, depending on your birth month, it might even have a little something in common with you, too.

Autumn leaves have inspired poets and writers for centuries. Emily Brontë wrote, "Every leaf speaks bliss to me, fluttering from the autumn tree." In Virginia Woolf's novels, autumn leaves "fall like golden flakes." But the fiery beauty of falling foliage is somewhat diminished when your neighbor's leaves waft into your yard.

Gardeners may also view fall foliage as fiery and glorious. But when we rake up our oak leaves today then wake up to find the lawn full of the neighbor’s maple leaves, it’s harder to appreciate their beauty. Whether you accept the “leaves the leaves” philosophy or bag them up and dispose of them, nobody likes to have to deal with someone else’s dead foliage.

Are you wondering what your rights are when it comes to the neighbor’s leaves? You’re not alone. While the complete answer depends on the rules in your state, city, or neighborhood, I'm here to give you an overview, including tips about how to proceed. As a former attorney, I often deal with issues like this in my Gardening Lawyer series.

The Short Answer: Who Usually Has to Clear Naturally Fallen Leaves?

States make laws and cities enact regulations that can impact a property owner’s rights. This includes laws involving neighbors’ rights and responsibilities. Although state and local laws differ, the general rule is that each property owner is responsible for the leaves on their lawn, regardless of whose trees the leaves came from.

The reason for this general rule is fairly easy to understand. It’s all very well if you have oaks and your neighbor has maples. But the more usual case is that you each have both, and the policemen have better things to do than trying to figure out whose trees a lawful of leaves came from.

And look on the bright side, if you shred them (using a shredder like the WORX 13 Amp Electric Leaf Mulcher on Amazon), you will have lots of free leaf mulch for your garden.

(Image credit: Uwe Krejci / Getty Images)When Could the Neighbor Be Responsible?

Every rule has its exceptions. This includes the general rule that you have to deal with the fallen leaves on your landscape, regardless of whether they came from the neighbor’s yard. The rule applies if the wind blows the leaves over. The exception is when the neighbor blows those leaves over the property line or rakes them up and dumps them into your property.

What to do if that’s the case? You should report it to your local code enforcement, home owners association (HOA), or local authorities.

What If the Leaves Are Blocking Gutters or Drains?

Leaves drifting from the other side of the property line onto your lawn are annoying. But in your gutters, they are even more of a problem. Leaves blocking the gutters mean the water cannot run out.

But, like clearing leaves from a lawn, clearing the leaves from a gutter is the responsibility of the owner of the gutter. You cannot sue your neighbor to remove them in most circumstances. If the leaves-in-the-gutter issue causes other problems, like mold in the home, it becomes a nuisance. In that case, with proper evidence, you may be able to take the neighbor to court.

Can You Cut Back the Neighbor’s Overhanging Branches?

The number one issue that causes a neighbor’s leaves to land in your gutter is overhanging tree branches. The best course of action is to speak with your neighbor first to outline the issue. Ask if they could trim the overhanging tree branches themselves.

But what if they say no, or say yes but never get around to it? The good news is that you have the right to clip back those branches to the property line – from your own side of the fence. Don’t damage the tree and don’t go onto the neighbor’s land to make the cuts.

(Image credit: photovs / Getty Images)What If Your Neighbor Blows Their Leaves Back Over the Fence?

As described above, the general law is that your neighbor need not clear leaves from their trees that the wind blows onto your property. Leaves blowing in the breeze across the property line are an act of nature.

But what if it isn’t an act of nature? What does the law say if your neighbor blows the leaves back over the fence to your property? If the neighbor takes action to get those leaves on your property – using a leaf blower or raking up the leaves into a sack and dumping them over the fence – it is no longer considered an act of nature. It’s the same as dumping garbage on your land, and you can definitely get local authorities involved.

What Evidence Should You Gather?

To prove that the neighbor deliberately shifts their leaves to your property, photographic evidence is essential. Photos are good; videos are better. Set up a motion-sensor camera in the backyard to get the evidence – HITELLARCAM is a well-rated budget choice.

In addition, start keeping a calendar. Put into the calendar when you talk to the neighbor, when your gutters or lawns fill up, when you empty the gutters or rake your lawn, when you cut back the branches.

If you are also claiming additional damage (like mold in the house), you’ll need expert testimony on the source. Call in a plumber to check for mold and write up an opinion linking the mold to the leaves in the gutters.

How to Handle the Dispute Without Making It Worse

Going to court is neither fun nor cheap, and it almost always leaves bad feelings between neighbors. That’s why it pays to try to negotiate a solution with your neighbor.

The first thing to do in every situation is to let the neighbor know about the issue. Try to have a casual conversation about the issue – no threats, no attorneys, no rage. Walk out into the garden or invite them to climb up a ladder to peer into your gutters. Let them know that it’s becoming a problem for you, and you would like their help with it.

If discussions get stuck, suggest a mediator to work with you. If you have an HOA, they may be able to provide the mediator. If not, ask at City Hall.

More from the Gardening Lawyer

• Is it Ever OK to Mow Your Neighbor's Lawn?
• If Your Tree Falls Into a Neighbor’s Yard, Who Pays for the Damage?
• Can You Take Garden Plants With You When You Move House?
• Is Your Neighbor's Tree Blocking the Sunlight in Your Yard? Here’s What You Can (and Can’t) Do About It
• Is It OK to Take Plant Cuttings From Garden Centers?

The best landscape-designer tricks to make the most of a shady, north-facing garden will transform a dull, dark plot into an inviting outdoor space where you'll want to linger. Designing a garden with this aspect is all about bringing more light to the space as well as selecting the right shade-tolerant plants that will flourish in these conditions. A shady garden brings wonderful opportunities that simply aren't possible in a sunny south-facing garden, so rather than thinking of a north-facing plot as a problem, make it work to your advantage.

One of the main challenges will be the lack of direct sunlight, which can make your outdoor space feel dull and gloomy, as well as restricting the types of plants you can grow. Tall buildings or trees blocking available sunlight compounds the issue, especially as we head into the winter months when the sun is lower in the sky. But all these landscape designer tricks will overcome such issues to create a covetable garden that you won't want to swap for a sunnier plot.

Which will you use to brighten up your shady north-facing yard?

1. Use Pale-Colored Pavers to Bounce Natural Light Around

(Image credit: Klaus Vedfelt/Getty Images)

Opting for lighter-colored materials for paths, patios and other hardscaped areas will reflect light as well as brighten the space, making a shady or north-facing garden a much more pleasant place to be. Choose porcelain or limestone pavers, and pebbles or river stones in pale tones of soft gray, sand, buff or other light neutrals, to make the most of whatever sunlight your garden gets. This also visually expands the space, which is one of the most common methods landscape designers use to make a small garden feel bigger.

It needn't be an expensive job to swap out existing darker paving for a lighter option such as these limestone-look porcelain pavers from The Home Depot, as long as you don't change the dimensions of the paved area and choose tiles of the same size. Lifting old pavers carefully means you'll keep the substrate intact, and can sell the old pavers on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist.

2. Layer up a Base of Large-Leaved Plants in Zingy Tones

(Image credit: Solidago/Getty Images)

Shady garden design starts with a strong base of foliage-first plants, to which flowering varieties are added. Layered planting is a big trend with landscape designers right now and it can be used to create a relaxed, immersive feel that helps soften the edges of shady, north-facing gardens too. There are plenty of varieties of leafy plants that thrive in low sunlight levels, so you be very intentional in the shades of green you choose.

Ferns are one of the most valuable plant groups for north-facing gardens and work particularly well to add vibrancy when combined with Fatsia japonica and hosta. All these plants are available in varieties with zingy green leaves and lighter-colored foliage that catches the light and helps to brighten dark borders and corners. You can also use plants with variegated foliage to add colour and interest in shaded areas.

Zingy green fronds

Hayscented Fern

Choose this bushy and compact variety of fern to anchor your shady planting scheme. Growing to around 3ft tall, it's a perennial that reliably returns every year with fronds emerging green then turning a soft yellow.

Creamy-white foliage

Hosta White Feather

Now's a great time to get cost-effective hosta bare roots into the ground, and this striking variety flourishes in full shade with leaves that open in a dreamy cream hue then develop eye-catching green veins.

Striped blades

Evercolor Everest Sedge

This reliable Carex variety is a super choice for full shade and tolerates wet soil well in zones 5-8, with the white edges of its arching blades brightening up a gloomy border a treat. Grows 1-2 feet tall and wide.

3. Add Luminous White Blooms to Your Border Design

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

Shade is often viewed as a disadvantage because it limits the choice of plants you can grow. But there are plenty of flowering plants that flourish in the shade, and by choosing varieties with luminous white blooms, the pale petals will lift any gloomy or shady space, dancing around the foil of zingy foliage you've created.

Flowering shrubs such as hydrangeas are one of the most consistently reliable shade-loving plants, offering masses of blooms right through summer and fall. There are plenty of pale-bloomed flowering varieties to choose from including garden favorite Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle', available from trees.com, that brings luxurious white pompom blooms to partial shade. In a more compact space, Hydrangea paniculata 'Little Lime', also available from trees.com, is a new dwarf form that also appreciates partial shade.

4. Play a Visual Trick with Partial-Shade Plants

(Image credit: Klaus Vedfelt/Getty Images)

Landscape designers know the power of choosing several key plants and repeating them in groups of three, five or seven throughout the design to add continuity and flow. This is an easy planting solution for shady, north-facing gardens too, as you simply choose plants that will work in these conditions and multiply them to build up your collection.

But here's the clever bit. Choose three unfussy plants that flourish in partial shade to plant throughout as these will typically cope with both a little more sun and a touch more shade. Then in areas of deeper shade, add a couple of varieties that prefer full shade, and in sunnier spots, swap these out for two sun-loving plants. That way, the planting is cohesive, linking the shady and sunny areas rather than having a stark contrast between them.

Be intentional when choosing your three key plants so each takes on a different role in the design. In this garden, which ranges from partial shade to full sun, there are repeat plantings of clipped evergreen hebe shrubs for structure, tall perennial foxglove beardtongue for airy flowers, and low-growing Mexican fleabane for groundcover. All these plants prefer full sun but cope very well with partial shade.

5. Create Focal Points with Showstopper Accent Plants

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

North-facing gardens can be wonderfully immersive spaces, lush with green foliage and pale-petalled flowers. But landscape designers will always ensure there is also accent planting to create focal points that elevate the entire scheme.

It's an inescapable fact that plants that produce the most vibrant colors are typically those that prefer full sun. That's because a great deal of energy is needed to produce intense pigments, which plants generate through photosynthesis using sunlight. However, by carefully mapping how sun and shade moves through your garden over time, you can identify spots that get the most sunshine, and use these to add accent plants that landscape designers love but are easy to grow yourself.

To create a simple shadow map to identify where these prime spots are, do a very simple sketch of your plot from an upstairs window. Then every two hours throughout the day, mark on the patches of shade. By the end of the day, you'll quickly see where the deepest patches of shade are, and which areas are only cast into darkness for a couple of hours, where a showstopper plant such as this fabulous Japanese dogwood, which likes full sun to partial shade, will thrive.

A useful tool to help you identify these prime accent-plant positions is a digital soil tester that also measures sunlight intensity such as this 4-in-1 moisture meter from Amazon.

6. Play with Reflections to Lift Dark Corners

(Image credit: Tim Sandal/RHS)

One way to bring the illusion of light to a shady garden is a water feature that reflects the sky. This will help to stretch your space and bounce any available light around the garden to create bright spots in shady areas. Adding a few drops of black pond dye such as Aquascape, available from Wayfair, turns the water into a dark mirror that clearly reflects trees, sky, and surroundings. Add a micropond to a border and the water will reflect the overhanging leaf and flower shapes all around it, too.

Other reflective surfaces like garden mirrors can achieve the same effect and make a shady, north-facing garden appear lighter and brighter by reflecting sunlight across the space. Carefully positioned on a shaded wall, fence or shed, a garden mirror will add a bright note. They can also help make the garden feel much larger, in the same way mirrors are used in interior design.

Use mirrored balls like this Outdoor Gazing Ball from Wayfair to capture the reflections of plants, the sky and sunlight, too.

7. Position Strategic Solar Uplighting Beneath Architectural Plants

(Image credit: Idisdao 500px/Getty Images)

A well-designed garden lighting scheme is always a key element landscape designers add to the mix in a north-facing garden. Garden lights can be used to great effect in dark shade during the day to highlight planting, garden sculpture or architectural features.

In addition to brightening the space, lighting your garden will draw more attention to landscape design elements by enhancing shapely trees like Japanese maples and sculptural plants such as agave or yucca. If you're using solar lights like these stake spotlights from The Home Depot, you'll obviously need to position them in a spot that gets sun for part of the day to charge, but then they'll add a glow once light levels fall. Choosing warm-toned lights will add a far softer ambience than cooler bright white lights.

8. Paint Boundaries a Pale Neutral Tone

(Image credit: Neil Hepworth/RHS)

If you're on a budget and want to brighten a north-facing garden without a major overhaul, one of the most cost-effective solutions is to paint boundary fences or walls in a lighter tone. This will immediately transform the space, bringing a much brighter feel to a garden that's mostly shaded.

Try light neutrals and soft, muted pastels in shades like pale gray, buff, cream, and willow or sage green – one of the strongest fence-color trends in 2026. If you want to pick up on the green trend then Glidden Fundamentals Light Sage Satin Exterior Paint, available from Walmart is a lovely option. Alternatively for a neutral cream try Glidden Fundamentals Oatmeal Satin Exterior Paint, also available from Walmart. Opt for a satin finish rather than matt as this will bounce the light around rather than absorbing it.

To avoid a big stretch of painted boundary, soften the look with fence landscaping ideas.

9. Choose Container Planting Combinations that Love Shade

(Image credit: Josh Kemp-Smith/RHS)

One of the easiest ways to switch up the look in a north-facing garden is by planting up pots with shade-loving plants that love life in a container. Whether it's a small urban courtyard garden overlooked by apartment buildings or a patio close to the house that doesn't get much sun, there are plenty of attractive options to create an appealing combination in a planter.

Reliable container garden favorites including hydrangea, hosta, ferns and ornamental Carex, adding precious blooms and interesting foliage to bring life and light into dark corners of your yard. Containers in shady spots need less watering and deadheading, and flowers tend to last longer than those in scorching sunshine, so there really are advantages to having a north-facing plot!

Many home growers still save tomato seeds (and seeds from other fall harvests) by smearing them across a damp paper towel. Yes, it feels quick and convenient in the moment. But that convenience vanishes in spring, when many prized seeds are frustratingly cemented to the towel. Some pull away with a papery crust torn onto their seed coats, while others refuse to budge no matter how carefully you scrape.

The result: fewer viable seeds to plant, and fewer mouth-watering crops to look forward to enjoying next summer. The thing is, that frustrating waste can easily be avoided. There is a simple, brilliant workaround that is equally affordable, remarkably easy, and far kinder to delicate seed coats. And the secret is likely sitting right next to your kitchen coffee machine.

Store-brand basket coffee filters are a game-changer for seed harvesting, especially in fall when tomatoes, peppers, squash, and juicy cucumbers are all finishing up in the same few weeks. Plain white coffee filters are cheap and readily available. More importantly, gelatinous seeds cannot bond to them the way they do to plush paper towels. Here’s how a simple pack of filters can set you up for a budget-friendly seed-starting season.

The Sticky Problem

As anyone who grows tomatoes knows, the seeds are wrapped in a slippery gel called a mucilaginous sheath. This holds inhibitors that stop seeds from sprouting inside a warm, ripe tomato, and plain water won’t wash it away. Cucumbers have their own slippery coatings, while squash seeds are tangled in stringy pulp. Soft berries like blackberries and strawberries are messier still, with tiny seeds buried in sugary flesh.

So once you slice into your harvests, the clock is already ticking. If you’re looking for a knife, super-sharp Victorinox Swiss Classic 3.25-Inch Paring Knife, available from Amazon, comes with a range of colored handles (including fall-festive orange).

(Image credit: Oksana Schmidt / Alamy)

Once any of the slippery casings, pulp or berry stuff starts drying, it behaves like rubber cement, grabbing onto whatever it touches. This is why it feels instinctive to reach for a paper towel. Most paper towels are made by blowing hot air through wet pulp sheets at the mill, creating a fluffy, bulky texture full of microscopic air gaps and loose fibers.

When seed-starting this way, a wet seed sits on a paper towel, its damp coating wicks deep down into those paper gaps and sets hard. As moisture evaporates, the seed coat and paper fibers interlock permanently. Prying them apart risks damaging the outer seed coat or leaves paper fragments attached, which can trap excess moisture during planting and invite fungi.

(Image credit: NurPhoto / Getty Images)Why Coffee Filters Work Better

Think about it: coffee filters are designed to survive a basket of heavy, wet grounds and a stream of near-boiling water without falling apart. Filter paper is dense and tightly woven using a wet-strength additive. Water passes through it rather than soaking in, allowing the sheet to dry rapidly in room air. Standard unbleached or white basket filters flatten out into a wide, shallow area that holds a generous spread of seeds.

If you need some fast at a bargain price, Great Value White Basket Coffee Filters (200 Count), available from Walmart, are just a couple of dollars. They can hold dozens of drying seeds without letting any stick or embed.

(Image credit: Lazy Bear / Getty Images)

That tight, smooth paper surface is precisely what makes coffee filters the ultimate seed-drying tool. The gel coating of a seed has nowhere to sink into, so the wet seed gel dries on top of the paper rather than inside it. Once dry, most seeds pop free with a gentle flex of the filter or a light tap from your finger. A few stubborn seeds might hang on if they had pulp attached, but even those brush off without tearing.

Plain unbleached basket filters are best, as heavy cone filters are stiffer and less flexible, while textured or quilted paper towels should be avoided entirely. Paper plates, glass pie plates and old window screens might work too if those are on hand. Filters are just cheap, and they stack flat in storage between seasons.

Preparing the Seeds

(Image credit: Romulo Yanes / Getty Images)

The filter only handles the drying phase, so you need to clean your seeds first to ensure long-term viability. Wet seeds like tomatoes and cucumbers benefit from a short fermentation process to dissolve the gel and eliminate seed-borne pathogens. Squeeze seeds, juice, and gel into a small jar with a splash of water. Cover with a cloth and leave in a warm spot, around 72-80°F (22-27°C) for 2-3 days, stirring daily. A white film on top is normal. When ready, pour off the top liquid and floating dud seeds. Then rinse the plump, viable seeds at the bottom until the water runs clean.

Peppers, pole beans, and winter squash are simpler. Ripe pepper seeds can be scraped directly off the core onto a filter. Winter squash and melon seeds just need the stringy pulp picked off before a quick rinse. For tiny berry seeds or passionfruit, mashing gently through a fine mesh strainer separates the juice from the seeds.

If you need a good strainer, choose something with fine gaps. The OXO Good Grips 3-Inch Mini Strainer, available from Amazon, is a comfortable hand sieve for small batches of squash, cucumber, or berry seeds. Allow freshly rinsed seeds to drain briefly in your strainer (or a narrow colander) before transferring them to your filter, in order to ensure the excess pool water doesn't soak the paper.

Drying Your Seeds

(Image credit: Зарина Лукаш / Alamy)

Write your labels on the dry filter before adding damp seeds. Use a permanent marker or pencil along the outer rim to write the seed name, variety and harvest date. Dried tomato seeds look identical once dehydrated, making early labeling essential. Place the labeled filter on a wire cooling rack or ceramic dinner plate, so air can circulate underneath the paper. For a multi-tiered option, the Geesta Rose Gold 4-Tier Drying Rack from Amazon helps speed up drying times.

Spread seeds out using tweezers, a toothpick or fingertip so that none are touching, since crowded seeds dry slowly and can fuse together. Set your drying rack in a warm, dry room out of direct sunlight with good airflow. You can use the top of your fridge, which runs a little warm. However, avoid fast-heating shortcuts like food dehydrators, ovens, microwaves, or hair dryers. Any temperatures above 95°F (35°C) can kill the delicate living embryos inside your seeds.

Shake or stir your seeds on the filter once every day to ensure even air exposure on all sides. Most tomato and pepper seeds dry fully in 7-10 days, while squash and melon seeds take 10-14 days. To test for dryness, bend a seed: if it flexes softly, it needs more time; if it snaps crisp or feels rock-hard, your batch is ready for storage.

Saving Your Seeds

(Image credit: Cindy Shebley / Alamy)

Once your seeds pass the snap-test, you can transfer them into storage containers. Paper seed envelopes, glassine packets, or tiny airtight glass jars or vials work well for seed storage. Just bear in mind that you need to add new labels. Store seed packets in a cool, dark, dry location: a closet shelf, a dry basement, or an airtight container in the refrigerator works best.

Avoid areas prone to humidity spikes or heat fluctuations, such as humid laundry rooms or sunny windowsills, as moisture and ambient heat are the main causes for degrading seed viability. If you’re looking for a seed tin to store multiple sets of seeds, we love the vintage-looking Haaray Seed Storage Organizer Box from Walmart. This charming tin comes with locks and a strap to keep your seeds safe, dry, organized and safe from pests.

Properly dried tomato, pepper, and squash seeds remain viable for 3-5 years, while brassicas and cucumber seeds can last up to 6 years. Always label your storage packets with the harvest year, so you know which batches to sow first come spring. When late winter or early spring arrives, your homegrown indoor seeds will slide out of their envelopes, ready to germinate into a rewarding new season of crops.

(Image credit: Nathalie Pellenkoft / Getty Images)

Saving your own seeds from fall harvests is one of the most satisfying, cost-effective ways to bulk up your future crops, without having to spend unnecessarily on seed packets. Just make sure you prepare your seeds with this method, and you’ll be safeguarding lots more seeds for next year’s plants. By swapping out sticky paper towels for simple coffee filters, you eliminate seed loss, protect delicate seed coats, and ensure a clean, easy release come spring. So, grab that box of filters, clear a quiet counter corner, and start saving your favorite heirloom varieties this weekend.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

October is a transition time for roses in many growing zones. Your goal now should not be to promote more growth or flowering, but essentially to put them to bed for winter. You might still have some blooms right now, but the shorter days and cooler temperatures are signaling the plants to prepare for dormancy.

It’s not quite time yet for your roses to be dormant, but it is time to get ready. In October, you should be cleaning up, watering, doing a little light pruning, and avoiding triggering any new growth. Growing roses successfully depends on this end-of-season care, so take a little time to complete these important tasks while stopping others.

1. Stop Deadheading

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Some types of roses benefit from deadheading, which encourages reblooming. If you grow these varieties, which include floribundas and grandifloras, you’ve probably been picking off spent flowers all summer and into early fall. This prevents flowers from developing rose hips and, instead, puts energy into more blooms.

By October, you can stop this task. Let some rose hips develop to signal to the plant that it is slowing down and preparing to enter dormancy. Rose hips also offer good visual interest as the season winds down and help feed local wildlife.

2. Clean up Around Roses

(Image credit: Alamy)

Roses are notoriously prone to disease, so cleaning up around plants is an essential hygiene task. Removing and disposing of plant debris, whether it looks diseased or not, helps prevent the spread of pathogens, including bacteria and fungi, which can overwinter there.

Remove fallen leaves from around the bases of roses as well as any lower leaves that look diseased or are damaged. Don’t put these in the compost pile. Dispose of them with yard waste or garbage.

If your roses struggled with a disease like black spot or powdery mildew this year, thorough fall cleanup is your first line of defense. Then, next spring, consider applying a preventative rose fungicide before new foliage emerges to help protect fresh growth. I like BioAdvanced All-in-One Rose and Flower Care Granules, available on Amazon, because they double as a fertilizer.

3. Do Some Light Trimming

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

As you clean up debris and remove any questionable leaves, you can also do some light fall rose pruning. Save the hard pruning for late winter or early spring. For now, it’s best to exercise restraint. Too much trimming triggers fresh growth that will only get damaged by winter conditions.

Focus on removing any dead, damaged, or diseased canes. It’s also a good idea to trim back the height a little on taller plants. This will protect them from winter winds that can damage canes or loosen roots in the soil. Remove about one-third of the height of tall canes. Climbing roses are exceptions to this. Rather than trimming them back, tie and train them against their supports.

When pruning roses, it's essential to use clean, sharp pruners to avoid damaging stems and spreading disease. In our testing, the best garden pruners were Felco F6 pruning shears, available on Amazon.

4. Stop Fertilizing

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Along with stopping the chore of deadheading, you can also stop feeding your roses. Fertilizing now, especially with a high-nitrogen product, will trigger new, green growth. This new growth is wasted energy for a plant going dormant.

New growth is tender and highly susceptible to damage. Damaged green growth isn’t just wasted energy. It can also introduce pathogens and disease into otherwise healthy plants. Instead, wait until your roses begin actively growing again in spring before feeding. A balanced rose fertilizer, such as Espoma Organic Rose-tone, will provide a steady supply of nutrients to support healthy foliage and abundant blooms as the new season gets underway.

5. Water Deeply

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

It’s a mistake to assume that cooler weather means plants don’t need any watering. While you may water less as temperatures drop, especially if your area is getting rain, roses benefit from water right up until the ground freezes. If it isn’t raining once or twice a week, you should be watering.

Water deeply at ground level to avoid splashing leaves. Water your roses whenever the top layer of soil feels dry. Potted roses may need watering more often. While you don’t want the soil constantly wet, adequate water will hydrate your plants and better prepare them for a healthy winter dormancy.

If you aren't sure how dry the soil is, use a moisture meter, like the Yamron 4-in-1 soil moisture meter, available on Amazon, which also checks for soil pH, light intensity, and temperature – all factors that can affect the performance of roses.

6. Start Thinking About Winter Protection

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Depending on where you garden, October may or may not be the right time to apply winter protection for roses. Either way, it’s a good time to start planning and, if needed, implementing these protection measures. Older, hardier roses might not need much, but smaller plants, hybrid roses, potted plants, and roses in more exposed areas can benefit from protection.

Wait until a hard freeze before you use any significant protection. If you do it too early, you can interfere with the plants’ transition into dormancy. Protection options include applying mulch, like Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch from Home Depot, around the base, tying canes together, or using a rose collar around the plants. Rose collars, like these pop-up rose cones on Amazon, are especially useful for potted roses, which are more vulnerable to winter cold.

Fall Rose Care Essentials

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch

Pop-Up Rose Cones for Winter Protection – 4 Pack

Effective October rose care is all about restraint. The focus is on doing less as the plants prepare for winter dormancy. This doesn’t mean doing nothing, of course. You’re winding down care, not stopping entirely. Clean up around roses, do any necessary trimming, keep watering as needed, and let the deadheading and fertilizing go. With these simple steps, your roses will enter dormancy healthy and ready to grow and bloom again next year.

It’s not easy being first-time homebuyers in British Columbia. Not only can they face high pricing, they also have myriad mortgage rules and decisions to navigate.

The upside is that first-timers can access several programs to assist with a down payment and maximize their purchasing power.

First-time buyers need a down payment of at least five per cent of a home’s price to qualify for a mortgage insured by the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation and other insurers.

“First-timers typically want space [and are] looking for a two-bedroom unit,” says Glenn Issler, Vancouver mortgage broker with Simple Mortgage Solutions.

However, two-bedroom units in B.C. are often priced upwards of $600,000, Issler adds, noting that under current rules, that five-per-cent applies only to the first $500,000.

Buyers are then required to have 10 per cent of the cost above $500,000, to a maximum purchase price of $1.5 million. Sums above $1.5 million require 20 per cent, he adds.

First-timers can access two federal programs to save for the down payment: the First Home Savings Account, or FHSA, and the Home Buyers’ Plan, or HBP.

Under the FHSA, first-time buyers can contribute up to $8,000 annually with a lifetime maximum of $40,000. As well, contributors receive a tax deduction. “The FHSA is very popular because it’s so easy to use and beneficial,” says Brian Sloman, mortgage agent at Ratehub.ca in Vancouver.

The money can grow up to 15 years and be withdrawn tax-free to purchase a first home.

The HBP, meantime, benefits those with a Registered Retirement Savings Plan, or RRSP.

The plan lets them borrow up to $60,000 from an RRSP for a first home. Additionally, buyers can combine both plans, and couples can further lump their savings together, maximizing purchasing power, Sloman adds.

The federal stress test, designed to ensure borrowers can afford a mortgage if rates move significantly higher, requires borrowers qualify at the higher of either the five-year fixed benchmark rate, or two percentage points above their offered rate.

Sloman says most buyers must qualify at the offered rate, plus the two per cent. “One way to increase their chance of qualifying is a 30-year amortization instead of the standard 25-year.”

Issler also notes that the federal government’s waiving of the GST on new homes can reduce first-time buyers’ costs by tens of thousands of dollars. “It’s among a few stackable credits and rebates significantly cutting purchasing costs.”

Others includes CMHC’s Eco Plus program, which provides a 25-per-cent rebate on mortgage insurance on new, energy-efficient homes. (Other insurers offer similar programs, he adds.)

B.C.’s First Time Home Buyers’ Program is another rebate, available for resale homes. It eliminates the property transfer tax for first-timers on the first $500,000 of a home price, saving $8,000. They also receive a partial exemption beyond that, up to $835,000.

“Altogether, these significantly reduce down payments first-time buyers need to buy a home,” Issler says.

Saffron is one of the tastiest, most expensive spices on the planet but if you have a sunny well-drained corner in your garden, it’s simple to grow your own. Grow saffron crocus and the purple petals are a beautiful fall addition to any yard, too.

Saffron comes from Crocus sativus, a fall-blooming crocus with lavender flowers that each hold three slender red stigmas. Those stigmas are the spice. When commercially grown, every single one is plucked by hand and around 150 flowers go into a single gram of dried threads — which pretty much explains the price on that tiny grocery-store jar.

Growing the plant at home is so easy, though, and you don’t need many of those stigmas to pack a powerful flavor punch. Grow saffron crocus and you can enjoy flowers the very first autumn in a sunny patch of ground, and the corms multiply for a bigger harvest every year after.

How to Grow Saffron

Crocus sativus grows from bulb-like corms and while August or September is the usual planting time, you can get away with planting in October as this is a tough plant, hardy in zones 4-8. Saffron crocus corms are available from Jackson & Perkins and should be planted as soon as they arrive. Corms left sitting in the bag too long can sprout and fizzle out before they ever touch soil.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

In zones 5 through 8, saffron crocus overwinters outdoors without much fuss. Zone 4 works too, as long as the soil is very well drained. Good drainage is the key to growing these corms successfully in all zones, however, as they tend to rot in soil that stays soggy for long stretches. So, if you have heavy clay soil that hangs onto water, growing saffron crocus in a raised bed makes sense.

You can also grow crocus in pots around a foot (30cm) or so across, as long as they're set on the ground over winter, not up on a bench. Using a container also means you can choose a cozy, sheltered sunny corner in winter if you’re in a colder zone. If your soil drains well, though, the world is your oyster! A favorite method is to add saffron crocus to your lawn for drifts of pretty purple flowers in fall as you'll have stopped mowing the grass by the time they bloom.

Set corms roughly 4-6 inches (10-15cm) deep and 3-4 inches (8-10cm) apart, pointed end up, then water them in once. Rain usually handles it after that. Voles and squirrels will dig for the corms, though, so add galvanised steel mesh, particularly if you’re planting in pots or border soil. Everbilt Steel Hardware Cloth, carried by Home Depot, has a ¼-inch (6mm) mesh that bends easily into a container or a buried basket under and around a planting. Where deer visit often, netting keeps them off the grassy winter leaves.

Mistakes That Can Cost a Saffron Harvest

Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale) and a few related fall bloomers often get sold as autumn crocus or even meadow saffron, and those plants are poisonous from top to bottom. Buying labelled corms from a trusted supplier beats squinting at flowers, but always check plant ID before you pick. Stamens give it away, with three on saffron crocus and six on a Colchicum. Only harvest from plants sold as Crocus sativus, and keep corms apart from other fall bulbs when storing, planting and growing, so they don't get mixed up.

Summer irrigation causes quieter trouble. Saffron goes dormant around June or July, and a planting sharing a drip line with thirsty tomatoes might remain wet enough to rot. Cutting the leaves early is another common slip. Leave them be until they yellow on their own as that foliage is still feeding next year's corms right up until dormancy. Fresh manure and heavy nitrogen are best avoided too. And don’t worry if the debut season is underwhelming – a good share of new corms may not flower until the second year.

How to Pick and Dry Saffron Threads

(Image credit: vainillaychile)

Flowers open in October or November, not long after the first leaves poke up. Harvesting saffron is best done in the morning once dew has dried off, ideally right before the blooms open fully. Pull out the three red stigmas and leave the yellow stamens behind. Tweezers make this much easier.

Threads must be bone dry before they go in a jar for storage. Air-drying in a warm, dark corner of the house works, but slowly. A dehydrator speeds up the process, but be sure to use one with a fine mesh screen to stop the tiny threads dropping through the trays, such as the NESCO Snackmaster Pro Food Dehydrator, available from Walmart.

Store saffron in small, tight-sealing amber glass jars like these 2oz jars from Amazon. Tucked away from light, dried threads can hold their quality for a couple of years. The usual habit is to let a new saffron batch sit for about a month before cooking with it.

How to Use Homegrown Saffron at Home

It’s important to say that if you’re pregnant, you shouldn’t ingest saffron as it can stimulate uterine contractions. This spice may also interact with medication – in particular blood pressure and diabetes medications – so consult your doctor before consuming. Only eat a moderate amount (no more than a few strands a day) as high doses can have severe side effects.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

A little saffron goes a long way when cooking. Crumble a pinch into two or three tablespoons (30-45ml) of warm water and let it steep for 15-20 minutes and the golden liquid will carry flavor evenly into a pot of rice or seafood stew. Saffron steeped into a little warm water can also be whipped into mayonnaise that pairs well with seafood, or use it to add color as well as flavor to bakes.

Saffron crocus is one of the best plants to grow for herbal teas, too. To make a warming saffron tea, simply steep a few strands in a mug with honey to taste. This acts as a natural mood booster and can promote better digestion and sleep.

Saffron has also served as a textile dye for centuries. Its color comes from water-soluble pigments so a strong steep can tint silk or wool a warm yellow for a craft project, though the shade may fade with washing and sunlight.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)Is Growing Saffron Cheaper than Buying It?

Over one season, probably not. One flower yields only a few thousandths of a gram of dry spice, and a starter bed of three or four dozen corms might produce enough for a couple of dishes that first year. But the picture shifts in later years. Each established corm can form several offsets by spring, so a bed that gave a pinch in year one may produce noticeably more by year three, and while the corms are a one-time cost, the spice at the store never is.

To encourage a good supply, once blooms start thinning out from crowding, lift and divide the clump, using the crocus offsets to propagate new plants. What a homegrown supply really costs is labor, and a grower who has pulled stigmas with cold fingers on a November morning understands the price tag a little better! But of course the other benefit of growing your own saffron in your garden is that you get to enjoy these pretty purple flowers every fall, which is absolutely priceless.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Before we get into the wonderful world of floral dupes, I want it on record that I have nothing against zinnias. In fact, I love them. Honestly, give me a garden absolutely packed with those colorful blooms and I’m going to stop and admire it.

Zinnias have that wonderful ability to make a garden look instantly abundant, and I love how many colors and flower shapes there are to play with. And, when these beauties are at their peak, it’s hard to imagine a more cheerful summer flower.

There is just one small problem: they’re annuals, which means that, every year, I have to start all over again. Understandably, then, I’ve been looking for a perennial that gives me some of that same flower power. Something big, colorful and gloriously over-the-top... but something I can plant once and enjoy again the following year.

The Ultimate Zinnia Dupe?

The best dupe, in my humble opinion, for a zinnia is a double coneflower (available at Amazon).

Now, if your mental picture of a coneflower is a simple pink daisy with a big brown cone in the middle, you may be in for a surprise; some of the newer double-flowered varieties are positively extravagant, with layers of petals creating rounded, almost pom-pom-like centers.

They’re not shy flowers; they are dramatic, and flouncing, and they have serious presence, which means that, if you plant a good-sized clump, you can get that same feeling of abundance that makes a bed of zinnias so irresistible.

Shop Double Coneflowers:

Japanese Maples and Evergreens Double Scoop Bubblegum Coneflower Live Plant

Generic 50 Butter Pecan Coneflower Seeds Echinacea Perennial Flowers Flower Seed

Easy Plant Finder Double Purple Coneflower Perennial Live Plant

Now, don't get me wrong; zinnias are brilliant for filling a garden with color, but their annual nature means there’s always a little bit of work involved in getting that display back each year. Coneflowers, on the other hand, are perennials. Once established in a suitable spot, they can return year after year, getting more impressive as the clump matures.

That makes them especially appealing if, like me, you love the look of a packed flower bed but don't necessarily want to rebuild it from scratch every spring. Even better, they aren't particularly precious plants. Once established, they can tolerate periods of dry weather, and it generally prefers a sunny position with well-drained soil, making it a useful choice for gardeners who want plenty of flowers without having to constantly fuss over them.

As if all that weren't enough, this zinnia dupe features stunning seedheads that can be left standing into fall and winter rather than immediately cutting everything back. They add structure to the garden when much of it has died back, and birds may make use of the seeds.

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Zinnias are still fantastic, of course, and there are some things they do that perennial coneflowers simply can't replicate; they give you enormous flexibility with color, they're brilliant for cutting, and they can produce an almost ridiculous number of flowers in a single season.

If you want a perennial dupe, though, you can't go wrong with double coneflowers! They give me the same thing I love about zinnias (bold color, abundance and that slightly extravagant “look at me” quality) while promising to pop back each year to put on the same magnificent show.

You can't say fairer than that, really!