Organic Gardening News

Used coffee grounds are often recommended as a natural fertilizer for many houseplants. But do orchids like coffee grounds? The answer isn’t a flat no. It depends almost entirely on which orchid is being discussed and how the grounds reach it.

A spent filter full of coffee grounds feels wasteful in the bin, which is probably how this idea got started. There’s real nitrogen in there. There’s organic matter too, along with years of internet advice insisting that acid-loving plants will thank you for the trouble. Orchids occupy an odd position in that conversation.

Two of those assumptions don’t survive much scrutiny, and the stakes are higher when fertilizing orchids than they would be when using coffee on tomato plants. It's important to understand that orchid roots evolved for conditions nothing like garden soil, and the medium in a typical pot serves a purpose that has little to do with nutrition. Get that part wrong, and the nitrogen content stops mattering.

Why Coffee Grounds Might Help Orchids

First up, I cannot overstate this: all types of orchids cannot rely on coffee grounds alone. They still need a specialist orchid fertilizer to provide the balanced nutrients they require. I like to use Better-Gro Orchid Plus 20-14-13, available from Amazon, which is urea-free.

But what if you're looking for a natural top-up? The nutrients in coffee grounds are genuinely there. Used grounds contain around 2 percent nitrogen by weight, with smaller amounts of potassium and magnesium alongside. They also add organic matter and hold moisture. Soil microbes break them down over time into something a plant can eventually take up. For a vegetable bed or home compost pile, that’s a decent contribution from something free.

The acidity claim is where the reasoning goes sideways. Brewing pulls the water-soluble acids out of the beans and into the cup, leaving spent grounds close to neutral, at around pH 6.5 to 6.8. Anyone using them to lower pH is banking on a property the grounds gave up in the machine. Whatever they do for an orchid, acidifying the medium isn’t it.

(Image credit: Kinga Krzeminska / Getty Images)Are Coffee Grounds Suitable for Every Type of Orchid?

The answer hinges on one key distinction. Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis species) are epiphytes, as are Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, and Vandas. In the wild, they cling to tree bark, with their roots hanging in moving air. Those roots are covered in a spongy layer called velamen, which soaks up water in bursts and then needs to dry out. Orchid bark mix in a pot is an attempt to recreate those airy conditions; providing nutrition is not its primary purpose.

Terrestrial orchids play by different rules entirely. Bletilla striata, the hardy ground orchid, grows in ordinary soil outdoors in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lady’s slippers (Cypripedium species) and ladies’ tresses (Spiranthes species) also grow in the ground. Their roots encounter organic matter much as those of other perennials do, making this a very different conversation from the one happening in a bark-filled pot.

Nearly every argument about coffee grounds and orchids comes down to two very different types of plant being discussed as though they were one.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Why You Shouldn't Add Grounds Straight to Orchid Bark

Wet coffee grounds behave like silt. Sprinkled into a pot, they filter down between the chunks and pack into the gaps, turning an open medium into something that stays damp long after it should have dried. A bag of orchid bark, such as this Rosy Soil mix, which contains biochar and mycorrhizae to improve plant health, is coarse for a reason, and filling those spaces defeats the whole design.

What follows is fairly predictable. Fungus gnats (Bradysia species) can breed in the damp organic layer, while white, fuzzy mold may spread across the surface within a couple of weeks. Roots that need air remain wet instead and can begin to rot from the outside in. Caffeine residue is another unknown: it has been shown to inhibit root growth in a number of plant species, and it is not well established where orchids fall on that list.

The Safest Way To Use Coffee Grounds for Orchids

For epiphytic orchids in bark, a heavily diluted and thoroughly strained coffee-ground “tea” avoids the problem of solid particles clogging the mix. It is still an experiment rather than a dependable part of orchid care, however, as its nutrient strength is impossible to judge and traces of caffeine may remain. I don't recommend it, but if you're determined to try it, then only use it very occasionally on already-damp roots, discard it if it smells sour or fermented, and flush the pot with plain water at the next watering. A specialist orchid fertilizer should remain the plant’s main source of nutrition.

For soil-grown orchids, composting the grounds first removes most of the risks. Around six months in a heap or a Costway dual-chamber compost tumbler from Walmart allows microbes to break the grounds down into something crumbly and stable. Much of the caffeine will have degraded, and the nitrogen has already passed through the microbial process that would otherwise need to happen in the pot.

Keep the ratio sensible while it cooks. Grounds need plenty of brown material alongside them – dry leaves or shredded cardboard – since a heap built largely from coffee can turn slimy rather than breaking down cleanly. Once finished, that compost can be used sparingly around terrestrial orchids growing in soil. It still has no business in a container of bark, no matter how well composted it is.

(Image credit: Alamy)Can Terrestrial Orchids Benefit From Coffee Compost?

Here the answer turns cautiously positive. A hardy ground orchid in a border has real soil under it, and the microbial community that comes with it. Work finished compost lightly into the surface, and it behaves as it would around any perennial. Structure improves. Nutrients arrive slowly, and the ground holds moisture further into summer.

Restraint is the whole game, though. A thin scattering once or twice a season does it, kept clear of the crown and pseudobulbs where trapped moisture starts rot. Uncomposted grounds piled on thickly cause something different – soil microbes go after that fresh carbon and pull available nitrogen out of circulation while they work. The plant goes hungry through the exact weeks it's putting on growth. That reverses eventually, but it can cost a season of flowering first.

Signs Coffee Grounds Are Harming Your Orchid

The medium tells you first. Bark still wet several days after watering has lost its drainage, and a white or gray bloom across the surface confirms it. A sour, fermented smell from the pot says the same thing. Small dark flies rising when the plant gets moved point at gnats breeding in there.

Roots give the clearest verdict, and a clear pot makes them visible. Healthy orchid roots look plump and silvery green when wet. Anything brown and soft has drowned, and a root that collapses under light pressure is past saving. Above the pot, watch for leaves turning yellow from the lowest ones upward, or a plant that stops producing new growth entirely for a season. At that stage, repotting an orchid into fresh medium beats waiting to see whether it recovers.

(Image credit: Shutterstock)Coffee Grounds Aren't a Substitute for Orchid Fertilizer

Orchid feeds are formulated around a limitation that explains this entire question. Many are urea-free because urea needs soil bacteria to convert it into a usable form, and a pot of bark simply doesn't hold enough of them. The same microbial gap that rules out urea rules out coffee grounds even more firmly.

For epiphytes in containers, a weak solution at every other watering covers what the plant needs, with an occasional plain water flush to clear accumulated salts. Anyone determined to use spent grounds should compost them properly and spread the results around terrestrial orchids outdoors. Moth orchids on a windowsill do better with something formulated for the job.

Orchid Essentials

Better-Gro Orchid Plus Fertilizer

If you want the best flowers, then get into the habit of feeding orchids weakly weekly with this water-soluble fertilizer.

Rosy Soil Orchid Soil Potting Mix

Give your orchids the perfect foundation with this peat-free, eco-friendly potting mix, formulated for superior aeration, drainage, and microbial root support to promote healthy growth and long-lasting blooms.

Meshpot Set of 2 Orchid Pots With Holes for Repotting

Support stronger, healthier orchids with this smart double-layer planter, featuring 360° airflow, air-pruning design, and a ventilated inner pot to prevent root rot while keeping your display sleek and stylish.

That tub of yogurt at the back of your fridge may have a second life in your garden, according to a surprising bit of advice making the rounds online. Yogurt does hold calcium and protein, which are two important nutrients tomatoes need to thrive. Though whether a tomato plant can use any of it is a separate question.

The claim that a spoonful of yogurt plopped into your watering can boost tomato growth turns up regularly in gardening forums, usually framed as a good calcium source for tomatoes. The logic runs that dairy is rich in calcium – and tomatoes often suffer from calcium problems – so giving plants a dose of dairy fertilizer can provide plants with what they need. But this theory isn't exactly accurate.

But yogurt isn't exactly useless in the garden. Use it alongside a proper tomato fertilizer and it could potentially give plants a little extra oomph. I'll walk you through the truth behind the claim that yogurt is a good fertilizer for tomatoes, how to try it out for yourself, and some precautions to take before using yogurt in your garden.

Why Gardeners Are Using Yogurt on Tomato Plants

Calcium is the main claim behind using yogurt as a tomato fertilizer. Blossom end rot ruins fruit every summer and a lack of calcium is often named as the culprit, so a tub of yogurt in the fridge is perhaps the nearest source on hand. Plain yogurt carries a fair amount of calcium by food standards, which makes the connection feel obvious.

The rest of the appeal spreads wider than just that one mineral, though. Yogurt is also a good source of protein and protein means nitrogen for plants.

Lactose is a sugar that soil microbes will eat readily, which can improve soil. Then there are the live cultures in yogurt, mainly Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus, which fit the popular notion of feeding soil biology as well. The tub was headed for the bin regardless.

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)Does Yogurt Tomato Fertilizer Really Work?

The case for yogurt as a calcium source for tomatoes falls apart once you really look at the numbers. A tablespoon (15 ml) of yogurt carries roughly 20 milligrams of calcium. A tomato in full fruit moves vastly more than that throughout a single season and the soil in which it grows is almost certainly holds a surplus already. So a spoonful of yogurt fertilizer doesn't make much of an impact.

Arithmetic isn't the real trouble, though. Calcium in dairy arrives bound to casein, which means soil microbes have to dismantle it before roots can reach any useful nutrients. Warmth and time do that work on their own timetable. Nobody decides when the nutrient turns up or whether it does so while the plant still needs it.

Blossom end rot is rarely a result of a shortage of calcium in the first place. It's more often a delivery failure. Uneven watering of tomato plants interrupts calcium moving into developing fruit, creating blossom end rot. Yogurt doesn't address the mechanism blocking the calcium, it only addresses the nutrient itself.

(Image credit: Mila Usmanova / Getty Images)Best Type of Yogurt to Use

If you still want to try out this homemade tomato fertilizer anyways, choosing the right yogurt is key. Plain yogurt is the only version that belongs near a garden bed. Nothing else on the dairy aisle qualifies. A tub of yogurt is cheap and choosing nonfat leaves less greasy residue behind than the full fat stuff. Fruit, honey, added sugar – none of it should reach the garden.

Artificial sweeteners are the other thing to skip, since they bring nothing to the soil and nobody can say how the residues behave in a garden bed. Sugar-loaded yogurt causes a quicker problem, drawing ants, wasps, and rodents to the base of the plant. Flavored tubs also carry stabilizers nobody should pour on a garden.

(Image credit: Alvaro Fernandez Echeverria / Getty Images)How to Make Yogurt Tomato Fertilizer

Dilution does the safety work for yogurt tomato fertilizer. One tablespoon (15 ml) of plain yogurt stirred into a full 2 gallon (9 L) watering can is the strongest dose you should use. Stir it well so nothing settles into a lump, then pour slowly around the drip line of your tomatoes, roughly 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) from the stem.

Follow with a can of plain water to carry the yogurt fertilizer below the soil surface, since dairy left sitting on top can cause problems. Keep every drop off the foliage as well. Damp residue on leaves in warm weather invites fungal tomato diseases far harder to fix than any nutrient shortage.

How Often to Apply

Applying yogurt tomato fertilizer once a month through the growing season is plenty and, often, less is fine. This belongs with small experiments rather than scheduled feeding, so there's little to gain from building a routine around it.

Anyone curious can run it properly. Treat one plant with the diluted mix, leave a matching plant untreated beside it and compare at season's end. That beats the anecdotes floating around online and it costs a single tub of yogurt.

What you should never do is replace a scheduled feed of traditional tomato fertilizer with only yogurt. A plant that doesn't receive real fertilizer and only yogurt just isn't being fed properly.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Mistakes To Avoid

Dolloping on a dose of yogurt fertilizer undiluted is a big problem for tomato plants. A blob of dairy on warm soil goes sour and draws flies. It can also set into a crust that sheds water instead of letting it through. Container plants suffer worst, since a pot holds little soil and none of the microbial diversity a bed uses to process organic matter.

Instead, if the goal is feeding the soil, a bag of Back to the Roots organic compost from Home Depot does that job properly.

Repeat applications of yogurt tomato fertilizer are the other trap. Residue accumulates and a spot treated over and over starts to smell bad and stays damp.

Signs to Stop Using Yogurt

A sour smell around the base of the plant means the residue is fermenting instead of breaking down cleanly. White or fuzzy growth across the soil surface signals the same issue. Scrape off what you can and flush the area with plain water.

Insects and animals can cause problems, too. Fungus gnats drifting around the stem are a sign something's wrong, but fruit flies more so. Soil turned over at night by raccoons or rats is the surest signal, since something has found the smell interesting. And a plant that looks worse than before the experiment started has already answered the question.

(Image credit: STELLA NEDELCHEVA / Getty Images)What to Use Instead

Fruiting tomatoes want steady nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, with an emphasis on the last two once flowering starts. Plants also need calcium and magnesium in amounts no kitchen leftover supplies. Espoma Tomato-tone 3-4-6 with 8% calcium from Amazon covers all a tomato needs in one product and yogurt simply can't compete.

Watering does more for blossom end rot than any additive from your fridge. Deep, even soakings in a steady rhythm with a few inches of mulch to hold in the moisture keep calcium moving into the fruit. All in all, save the yogurt for your breakfast. Invest in a good organic commercial tomato fertilizer or homemade compost instead.

The best garden pruners make it easier to achieve clean, precise cuts without damaging plants or leaving your hands aching. However, different tools suit different pruning jobs, so the right choice will depend on what you are cutting, how much power you need, and what feels comfortable to use.

For this guide, I tested six of the most popular pruners available, using them for tasks ranging from deadheading and trimming soft stems to cutting back thicker growth on fruit trees. I compared their cutting performance, comfort, build quality, versatility and value to find the best options for different gardeners and to cover all the pruning basics.

The Felco F6 Bypass Pruning Shears, available on Amazon, were my highest-rated pruners overall. They made consistently clean cuts, felt comfortable and well balanced in the hand, and handled both delicate stems and tougher growth with ease. Their combination of cutting performance, thoughtful design, and durability put them ahead of every other model I tested.

They will not be the best types of pruners for everyone, however. Bypass pruners are generally ideal for making clean cuts through live growth, while anvil models can provide more power when tackling tough, dry, or dead wood. You may also need a lightweight design for smaller hands, a more affordable option for occasional use, or a more powerful tool for thicker branches. This guide will help you choose the right pruner for your plants, hands, and budget.

The Quick List

Best overall

1. Felco F6 Pruning Shears

The best pruners overall

The Felco 6 is the finest pair of pruning shears I’ve ever had the pleasure of reviewing. Not only are these pruners an effective, convenient tool for pruning your plants, but with proper maintenance, they can be kept in perfect working condition for decades. Just don’t use them on thick tree branches.

Read more below

Best for larger hands

2. Felco F8 Pruning Shears

The best pruners for larger hands

Ergonomic shears are supposed to act like an extension of the gardener's body – and for larger users, that’s exactly what the superb Felco 8 pruners can do. With a one-inch cutting capacity, these shears can be used to cut suitably sized tree branches and for pruning plants.

Read more below

Best affordable pruners

3. Fiskars SmartFit Bypass Pruners

The best affordable pruners

These bypass pruning shears are not only affordable but also give you good all-round cutting performance. Simple, hard-wearing, and highly functional, this tool is a great choice for beginners who want to start out with straightforward, versatile pruners.

Read more below

Best adjustable pruners

4. Opinel Hand Pruning Shears

The best adjustable pruners

These French-made pruners make cutting easier, with a choice of cutting widths. The mixed-materials design is super-stylish, incorporating a beechwood handle. Its specialty is pruning moderately thick plant stems.

Read more below

Best pruning snips

5. Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13

The best pruning snips

Short, sharp, and soft-handled, the SP13 snips make it incredibly easy to deadhead plants and cut tender stems. They are not for cutting wood, but are ideal for pruning small potted plants – including most houseplants and indoor vegetables. You can use them for floristry, too.

Read more below

Best anvil pruners

6. Wolf-Garten Rsen Anvil Pruners

The best anvil pruners

Wolf-Garten’s excellent anvil pruners are specially designed to comfortably cut tough, woody stems and branches. The RSEN can also prune juicy stems reasonably well – but gnarly work is this tool's true calling

Read more below

The Best Pruners: Expert Reviews

Here’s your at-a-glance intro to our best pruners round-up. Scroll further down to read my findings from testing each product hands-on. You can also use the navigation links to jump to the pruners that interest you the most.

The Best Pruners OverallFutureFutureFuture1. Felco 6 Pruning Shears

The ultimate in Swiss engineering for your yard. Classy, comfortable and effective.

Type: Bypass pruners | Cutting capacity: 0.79″ | Blade material: Hardened steel | Handedness: Right | Accessories: Adjustment key

Outstanding pruning performance Beautiful designHighly sustainableExpensive

Founded in 1945, Felco is one of the world’s best-regarded makers of pruning shears. The Swiss company came out with its iconic Felco 2 secateurs in 1948 – and the Felco 6 pruning shears share much of that iconic tool’s design DNA. Intended for all-round pruning, the Felco 6 can cut through all sorts of stems and branches up to a thickness of 0.79 inches. These pruners are compact, comfortable, and built to last.

Design: Felco pruners are nothing short of a design masterpiece. The handles are ergonomically molded to suit various hand shapes and sizes – although the tool is recommended especially for users with medium-sized hands. The cutting blades are slightly angled, which helps you prune efficiently. For long-term use, you can use the adjustment key to disassemble the shears for routine maintenance.

Performance: I found the Felco 6 incredibly easy to use around the yard. Perfectly tensioned, the hardened steel bypass blades are able to cut even the toughest plant matter. Closing the shears by hand is remarkably easy, enabling convenient cutting over long-term use.

Versatility: There’s not much that these shears can’t cut. Even tough, woody branches soon gave way to the Felco 6’s sharp, precise blades during testing, and there won’t be many plants in your yard that these shears can’t prune. However, if you intend to cut branches thicker than 0.79 inches, use pruners with a greater cutting width or perhaps a mini chainsaw or lopper.

Price: Priced at over $70 by most retailers, the Felco 6 is one expensive pair of pruning shears. Are they worth it? That comes down to how much you enjoy gardening and the joy you take in your yard tools. On the plus side, the Felco 6 pruners are lower in price than most electric alternatives. And, if you take care of them, you could use these pruning shears for a lifetime.

Read more: Felco 6 Bypass Pruners review

Buy Them If…

✅ Gardening is your passion: The Felco 6 is a luxurious, truly top-quality pruning shears model. You will appreciate this exquisite tool if you love working in the yard.
✅ You think long-term: The user can replace all key components of the Felco 6 at home, including the blades, springs, and fixings.
✅ There are many plants to prune in your yard: These shears cut tender stems effortlessly, and the handles are very comfortable to hold.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ You don’t like taking tools apart: To keep the Felco 6 performing at its best, you’ll need to use their adjustment key to disassemble the shears now and then for cleaning, sharpening, or replacement of parts.
❌ You’re left-handed: Felco makes many excellent left-handed pruners, but the Felco 6 ain’t one of them due to its righty-focused ergonomics.
❌ There are many thick branches to prune in your yard: These shears are designed to cut up to a branch diameter of 0.79 inches – and no wider.

Felco 6 Pruning Shears Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Unbeatable cutting performance and user experience.

★★★★★

Design

A timeless design with great ergonomics.

★★★★★

Versatility

Suits most pruning tasks, except branch-cutting.

★★★★

Price

A big investment with long-term rewards.

★★★★

The Best Pruners for Larger HandsPete WisePete WisePete Wise2. Felco 8 Pruning Shears

Stellar Felco quality and performance, in a slightly larger pruner.

Type: Bypass pruners | Cutting capacity: 0.98″ | Blade material: Hardened steel | Handedness: Right | Accessories: Adjustment key

Exceptional cutting performance Great aetheticsErgonomic design for large hands Not ideal for users with smaller hands Expensive

I’ll show you just one more pair of Felco pruners before I move on to some other brands. There’s good reason to highlight this particular manufacturer: its pruning shears are incredible. The Felco 8 is an ergonomic redesign of the classic Felco 2. It works beautifully, features high-quality construction, and includes an adjustment key for convenient maintenance. This model is a little longer than the Felco 6 and, therefore, better suited to users with larger hands. It also has a slightly greater cutting width.

Design: You’ll notice the difference between these Felco pruners and smaller models like the Felco 6 when you squeeze the handles. Closing the blades takes more effort but produces more leverage and a wider cut. Whether or not that’s a good thing depends on the size of your hands. If I were being critical, I’d say the Felco style loses some of its elegance in this larger iteration – but the pruners are still more beautiful than almost any other you’re likely to encounter.

Performance: These pruners cut cleanly through every size-appropriate (under one inch) branch or stem I tested them on. You’ll only encounter difficulties with the Felco 8 if you try to use them for pruning large branches over an inch in thickness. For all intended pruning applications, these shears work perfectly. Remember that the handles are ergonomically designed for a large hand. The size of your hands will affect performance.

Versatility: The Felco 8 gives you greater versatility than smaller Felco models, such as the Felco 6, owing to its greater cutting capacity: approximately one inch. This expands the range of tree branches that can comfortably be pruned using the pruner’s blades. The excellent sharpness and tensioning of the blades mean that the Felco 8 can very cleanly cut fleshy plant stems without any messy ‘chewing.’

Price: Usually costing more than $60, the Felco 8 pruners are expensive compared to the average manual pruners. However, given the quality of the Felco 8's construction and the availability of replacement parts, the price you pay could be a wise long-term investment. Users who only prune occasionally might prefer to buy a more affordable option.

Buy Them If…

✅ You have lots of pruning to do: The Felco 8 is suitable for long-duration pruning sessions. It offers exceptional cutting performance and comfortable handles.
✅ Sustainability matters to you: Not only are these shears great quality, but you can also replace all the key parts over time. The Felco 8 could be your trusty pruning companion for decades.
✅ Your hands are large: This pruner's ergonomic design is intended especially for larger hands. If you have smaller hands, try the Felco 6 instead.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ There are more important things to spend your money on: You can find highly effective pruning shears for a much lower price – although they might not be as special as the Felco 8.
❌ You’ll be pruning branches over one inch thick: If so, you’ll probably need a lopper or a mini chainsaw instead. Using shears on an excessively thick branch is bad for the blades.
❌ You don’t have large hands: We, the manually mediocre, are better off using a smaller pruner, such as the Felco 6, with an ergonomic design that suits us.

Felco 8 Pruning Shears Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Supreme cutting performance across stems and narrow branches.

★★★★★

Design

Timeless Felco design, adapted for large hands.

★★★★

Versatility

Excllent versatility relative to smaller bypass pruners.

★★★★★

Price

A big investment, for long-term use.

★★★★

The Best Affordable PrunersPete WiseFuturePete Wise3. Fiskars SmartFit Bypass Pruners

Not only affordable; effective, low-maintenance and beginner-friendly too.

Type: Bypass pruners | Cutting capacity: ⅝ inch | Blade material: Steel | Handedness: Left or right | Accessories: N/A

Great for pruning soft stems and thin branchesBudget-friendlySimple, beginner-friendly designLacks premium build qualityNot suitable for pruning thick branches

What you need to know: Finnish toolmaker Fiskars has a history dating back to the 1600s. Relatively recently – in 1967 – the brand produced the world’s first plastic-handled scissors. Today, effective, affordable cutting tools remain a Fiskars specialty, and the SmartFit Bypass Pruners are a great example. These shears suit various pruning tasks, from deadheading to cutting small branches.

Design: A study in simplicity, the shears are robust, minimalistic, and functional. It may not be luxurious, but this tool is perfectly suited for convenient pruning, with curved, ergonomic handles that will be especially comfortable for users with small or medium-sized hands.

Performance: The SmartFit Bypass Pruners are great at pruning slender tree branches up to their maximum cutting width. It takes a bit of effort to cut through the thickest branches within that range – but the sharp blades will manage it, and can also handle relatively delicate stems. These pruner are an affordable option, so it should come as no surprise that some components – especially the spring and locking mechanism – are slightly flimsy.

Versatility: The SmartFit Bypass Pruners offer a fairly good range of cutting capabilities. While these shears will struggle with cutting thicker tree branches, they can tackle most branches and stems up to just under ⅝ inch. If you keep the blades sufficiently sharp, the shears should prove capable of cutting thin, fleshy stems without too much chewing. For delicate pruning tasks, you might prefer to use a smaller pruner, such as the Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13, or a sharper-bladed model, such as the Felco 6.

Price: The SmartFit Bypass Pruners are a reasonably priced choice, particularly for gardeners who will benefit from the adjustable blade opening and handle span. They do not offer the refinement, precision or long-term serviceability of a premium pair, but they handle routine deadheading, stem cutting and light branch pruning capably.

Read more: Fiskars SmartFit Bypass Pruners review

Buy Them If…

✅ All-round pruning functionality is your focus: These shears are strong enough to cut fairly thick woody branches and sharp and precise enough for delicate tasks such as deadheading.
✅ You’re new to pruning: This Fiskars pruner has a simple, beginner-friendly design and versatile cutting capabilities.
✅ You value long-term, low-maintenance performance. Thanks to their rust-resistant, hardened steel blades, these shears can sustain high-performance cutting over long-term use.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ Very delicate pruning is required: A different Fiskars pruner, the Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13, is better suited to this type of work.
❌ You like a traditional aesthetic: These bypass pruners' no-frills, utilitarian design will appeal to many users, but for those who appreciate a more traditional look, a Felco pruner would be a better choice.
❌ There are thick branches to prune on your trees: An anvil pruner or lopper may perform better in this specific use case. (Which specific model is best will depend on the thickness of the branches.)

Fiskars SmartFit Bypass Pruners Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Good pruning performance across most routine tasks.

★★★★

Design

Minimal, modern design, suitable for most hands.

★★★★

Versatility

Capable of pruning a good range of woody and tender plants.

★★★★

Price

Exceptional value-for-money.

★★★★★

The Best Adjustable PrunersPete WiseFutureFuture4. Opinel Hand Pruning Shears

These bypass pruners combine impressive, adjustable cutting with a dash of French flair.

Type: Bypass pruners | Cutting capacity: 0.78″ | Blade material: Stainless steel | Handedness: Left or right | Accessories: N/A

Adjustable cutting widthSuper-stylish designVery good pruning performanceSap build-up affects actionNot ideal for smaller hands

Made by the historic French toolmaker Opinel – a brand that’s world-famous for its wooden-handled cutting tools – these Hand Pruning Shears are a superb choice for effective cutting and elegant aesthetics. This tool’s bypass cutting action and sharp, stainless steel blades equip it for a variety of pruning tasks, including cutting back plants and shrubs, and pruning thin tree branches. It is made with a high-quality combination of materials, including stainless steel, beechwood, and molded plastic.

Design: I loved these pruners for their eye-catching, functional design, with one handle made of beechwood and the other of molded plastic. A special feature that’s worth noting is the adjustable cutting width – you can choose between two settings using the unmissable, bright orange selector near the blades. The only design downside to these shears is that the wider cutting setting makes for higher-effort use.

Performance: The Opinel Hand Pruning Shears performed very well in my testing, easily producing clean cuts when used to prune plants like roses and foxgloves. Very delicate pruning was made easier by the curved bottom blade of the shears, which helped me to isolate narrow stems among dense growth. Regular cleaning is required to maintain a smooth cutting action, as these shears are strongly affected by buildup of sap.

Versatility: If you’re only going to buy one pair of pruning shears, this model would be an excellent choice. It can cover a wider range of pruning tasks than most other shears I’ve tested, from deadheading flowering plants and pruning shrubs to cutting tree limbs (up to 0.78″). Basically, it’s good for everything except heavier tree pruning, which is usually a task for loppers or a chainsaw.

Price: One reason why you might not choose the Opinel Hand Pruning Shears is their price, which tends to exceed $70. That puts them in the same price bracket as the Felco 6, so that's some high-quality competition. I believe the pricing of Opinel’s pruner is justified by its unique, beautiful design and excellent performance – but you might want to wait around for a seasonal sale.

Buy Them If…

✅ You have an eye for classic tool design: Few pruners are as beautiful as the Opinel Hand Pruning Shears, with their mixed materials design, colorful accents and pleasingly curved blades.

✅ Adjustable cutting width will make pruning easier: This is a particularly good choice of pruner for users who find pruning hard work, as the lower cutting width requires a smaller effort with each cut.

✅ Most of your plants have moderately thick stems: While very thin stems and thick tree branches are a little outside of this pruner's comfort zone, it cuts fairly thick stems and thin branches very effectively.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ Pruning trees is your priority: Some tree branches can be pruned effectively with this Opinel pruner, but branches thicker than 0.78″ will require a tool with greater cutting capacity.

❌ Your budget is limited: This is one of the most expensive manual pruner models included in this guide. Its premium design merits a premium price, but you could get a functional pruner at a lower cost.

❌ You have small hands: Using this pruner's two-step cutting width adjustment will give you some control over the required grip, but you'd need relatively large hands to comfortably use the wider option.

Opinel Hand Pruning Shears Test Results

Performance

Clean cuts and excellent accuracy for lower-width pruning tasks.

★★★★

Design

Beautiful materials and excellent usability.

★★★★★

Versatility

Good for pretty much everything, except heavy tree pruning.

★★★★★

Price

Expensive, but a worthy investment for keen gardeners and design aficionados.

★★★

The Best Pruning SnipsPete WisePete WisePete Wise5. Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13

These tiny snips are great for deadheading plants and cutting tender stems.

Type: Pruning snips | Cutting capacity: Designed to prune narrow stems | Blade material: Stainless steel | Handedness: Left or right | Accessories: Sheath

Sharp, precise blades Light and maneuverableGreat priceNot suitable for pruning woodSharp points should not be used around children

The most delicate pruning tasks should be approached with care and precision. The Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 brilliantly meets these needs with its streamlined, lightweight design and sharp, elongated blades. Bundled in with the snips is a protective sheath, which should be put on the blades whenever the snips are not being used.

Design: The SP13 is a well-designed pair of snips with slightly rough-around-the-edges construction. Using the snips is generally simple and low-effort – although I sometimes had difficulty closing the locking mechanism during testing. The snips’ blades are sharp along their full length, all the way to the tip. As an old-school scissors-maker might say, they cut “right from pinch to point.”

Performance: The Fiskars snips are sharp, efficient, and effective at cutting tender stems. They’re designed especially for pruning tender stems and deadheading, so it is no surprise that the snips are incapable of cutting tree branches – even very thin ones. When I used the snips as intended, they cut delicate stems and flower heads with great precision. The handles spring back open quite forcefully after each cut.

Versatility: These snips can perform a fairly wide range of tasks – but only at the more delicate end of the pruning spectrum. They will do the job well if you need to precisely prune narrow stems, remove dead flowerheads, or cut stems for indoor display. However, a more powerful tool, such as a bypass pruner, will provide a better range of cutting capability for general outdoor pruning. If you have any tree pruning to do, this pruner will not help you do it.

Price: You can’t argue with the pricing of the Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13. With that said, you should factor in this tool’s specialized cutting capabilities before you buy. You will likely need to purchase an additional tool for pruning thicker, woodier stems. Of course, the build quality of the snips is also reflected in their price.

Read more: Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 review

Buy Them If…

✅ You need a precise tool for pruning dense plants: The SP13 may be small, but those long, keen blades are great at finding their target in overgrown areas. For careful pruning, look no further.
✅ A lightweight tool suits you: Weighing about one-and-a-half oz, you’ll barely feel these snips while you work. This could make a big difference during a long pruning session.
✅ You’re into flower arranging: These snips are perfect for cutting flowers for indoor display. Remember to cut stems diagonally to maximize a cut plant’s water uptake for long-lasting freshness.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ Powerful pruning is required: These delicate snips are not intended for cutting thick stems or woody branches. If that’s the work you’ll be doing, consider buying a bypass or anvil pruner instead.
❌ You’re uncomfortable having sharp tools in the yard: As the SP13 snips are sharp and pointy, they definitely shouldn’t be left where they might endanger children or pets.
❌ You need to extend your reach: The SP13 snips are in their element at close quarters. If you aim to prune, high-up or hard-to-reach stems, you’d be better off using a longer-reach tool such as a pole lopper.

Fiskars Solid Snip Pruning Micro-Tip SP13 Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Great at precisely pruning tender stems.

★★★★

Design

Brilliant design, but construction is economical.

★★★

Versatility

Limited to the most delicate pruning tasks.

★★★

Price

A remarkably affordable price point.

★★★★★

6. The Best Anvil PrunersPete WisePete WiseCutting a hosta stem with Wolf-Garten's RSEN pruner.Pete Wise6. Wolf-Garten Anvil Pruner RSEN

Let these powerful pruning shears and their branch-crushing anvil blade take the strain

Type: Anvil pruners | Cutting capacity: 0.75" | Blade material: Coated metal | Handedness: Left or right | Accessories: N/A

Powerful branch cutting Very good priceBuilt to lastNot ideal for soft, tender plantsExtended use can be laborious

Some plants with thick stems or lots of tough branches can’t be cut using bypass pruners. This is where anvil pruners like the RSEN can help. Anvil pruners have a sharp top blade and a wide, flat bottom blade – a design that provides enhanced cutting power for heavy-duty pruning. Wolf-Garten’s Anvil Pruner RSEN is an excellent example, with robust construction and a 10-year guarantee. Unlike some anvil pruners, which are made solely for cutting tree branches, the RSEN is sold as a general-purpose anvil pruner, meaning it can be used for cutting soft plants, too.

Design: Wolf-Garten has a knack for making smart, timeless-looking garden tools – and the RSEN anvil pruners are no exception. The design is effective and attractive, with some nicely implemented features, including a metal locking button. The blades have a non-stick coating, which will help to keep the pruners clean – especially if you’re going to use them to cut sappy branches. Of course, the star of the show is the RSEN's anvil-style pruning blades, perfect for pruning tough branches. Weighing in at just 8 oz, these pruners are impressively lightweight relative to the cutting force generated. The shears have an ambidextrous design, allowing optimal usage, whether you're right- or left-handed.

Performance: During my hands-on testing, the RSEN chomped through tough tree branches better than any other manual pruner could, requiring limited extra effort to sever the wood. The flat bottom blade holds the branch steady while you cut. The RSEN anvil pruners were capable of cutting tree branches with a wide range of thicknesses, right up towards the higher end of their cutting capacity. The cuts produced were clean and regular, which is good for tree health. I was also pleasantly surprised with the RSEN’s performance when cutting tender stems, which was neater than the average anvil pruners.

Versatility: Anvil pruners are unsuitable for delicate work, such as deadheading flowering plants. Although the Wolf-Garten Anvil Pruners RSEN are more precise than many competing anvil pruners, they're better at cutting thicker, tougher stems. They do their main job – heavy-duty work – very well but also have the versatility to do some lighter tasks to an acceptable level. All things considered, we rate the RSEN as good general-purpose pruners with excellent capabilities for cutting slender tree branches.

Price: You can pick up RSEN anvil pruners from stockists such as Amazon for around $55. We wouldn’t necessarily recommend buying the RSEN as your only pruners. However, if you have the budget for two pairs – these plus a pair of bypass pruners – then you could keep both pairs working optimally for longer by using the RSEN only for heavy-duty pruning while reserving the bypass pruner for delicate tasks. This pruner offered exceptionally good build quality and performance at a reasonable price.

Buy Them If…

✅ You need a manual pruner to cut tough stems: These anvil pruners combine a sharp top blade with a wide bottom blade to tackle tough tree branches or sinuous stems up to ¾-inch thick.
✅ Long-term use matters to you: German toolmaker Wolf-Garten offers a 10-year guarantee on these well-built pruning shears (subject to warranty conditions).
✅ You already have a bypass pruner for pruning delicate plants: While the RSEN can cut soft stems, it’s not the ideal tool for gentle work. This anvil pruner is a heavy-duty alternative, not an all-round solution.

Don't Buy Them If…

❌ You have lots of delicate plants to prune: Like other anvil pruners, the RSEN could do a lot of damage to the softest and most tender plants. Of course, the RSEN's aggressive action is better suited to branch-cutting.
❌ Pruning tires out your hands: If there are many plants in your yard, pruning can be a big, time-consuming task. With this in mind, it’s worth noting that using the RSEN for pruning plants (but not cutting branches) requires a little more elbow grease than cutting with some of the other manual pruners we’ve tested.
❌ You’re in a big hurry: It may take a couple of weeks for your Wolf-Garten pruners to arrive, as the shears are often sent to the US from overseas.

Wolf-Garten Anvil Pruner RSEN Test Results

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Performance

Great at cutting tough stems and branches.

★★★★

Design

Good functionality and a smart aesthetic.

★★★★

Versatility

Best at tough jobs, although capable of finer work.

★★★★

Price

Fairly priced and built to last.

★★★★

How to Choose the Best Pruners for You

When considering how to choose pruning shears, there are a few things that will need to be factored into your thought process.

All-round pruning capability: A bypass pruner will likely be your best choice if you're buying just one pruner to cover most pruning tasks around your yard and home. Named for their blade action, with one blade passing by the other, these traditional pruners are usually suitable for a range of pruning tasks, including deadheading, cutting tender stems, and sometimes pruning narrow tree branches.

Specialized pruning: Other pruners are available to suit particular pruning types that may not be catered for with a bypass pruner. Mini chainsaws can prune larger branches, while pole loppers are used to cut well above head height. Snips enable delicate cutting of the smallest stems and flowers at the smaller end of the scale. Meanwhile, anvil pruners are great at cutting tough sinew or woody branches.

Quality: Just how good do you need your pruners to be? A wide range of price points is available, and the same is true of the level of quality in pruner design and construction. For a luxurious, long-term solution, premium brands such as Felco can provide the required standards. Or, if affordability is the focus, a reasonably priced make such as Fiskars could be your best bet.

What Type of Pruner is Best for You?

As reflected in the wide range of tools featured in this guide, there are various pruners. Each variety has been created for specific purposes, so it's worth considering which option will best suit your yard's needs.

Bypass pruners are a classic style of manual pruning shears with sharp blades that cut materials when they pass against each other. They have great all-round pruning capabilities, from light pruning tasks such as deadheading and removing dead flower heads to slightly heavier work, including cutting thin, woody branches.

Anvil pruners are similar to bypass pruners, but they have a flat bottom blade that crushes plant matter while the top blade slices through it. This type of pruner is especially well-suited to cutting fairly thick tree branches or slicing through sinuous stems.

Pruning snips are a smaller style of manual pruning shears with sharp, accurate blades ideal for making neat cuts. They are not suitable for cutting tree branches or tough stems.

Mini chainsaws are a high-powered option for pruning tree branches. Like a full-size chainsaw, this tool cuts plant matter using a rapidly revolving metal chain. You would not want a mini chainsaw to prune soft or juicy plants.

Pole loppers help the user prune high-up tree branches. Their clever design incorporates trigger-activated, electric pruning jaws and a long pole to increase reach.

How We Tested These Pruners

I received a sample unit of each pruner featured in this guide and used each tool to carry out an appropriate range of tasks in my yard.

The tests included cutting tree branches of varying widths (up to the advertised cutting capacity), deadheading flowers, and cutting through juicy plant stems.

In addition to assessing their cutting performance, I compared the pruners based on other criteria including how much effort was required to use them, how comfortable they were to hold, and the effectiveness of extra features such as opening width selectors and lock buttons.

Some of the pruners have specialized functions. In these cases, my testing was focused mainly on these tools' special intended use cases.

I then consolidated all of my tests and scored each pruning shear out of 5 (5 being the highest). This new scoring system ensures more accuracy and consistency across our testing criteria. It's then over to you to decide which is the best pruner for you based on my first-hand experience.

(Image credit: Pete Wise)Pruners FAQsWhat Are Pruners Used For?

Pruners are versatile tools to use around the yard. Their primary purpose is to remove damaged, diseased, or dead stems and branches from plants. Smaller pruners, such as "pruning snips," are perfect for snipping more delicate flowers, whereas "anvil" pruners are more suited to cutting back woody stems and branches.

By removing this matter, you'll avoid unwanted insects and diseases, so it's important to keep checking the foliage throughout the seasons to maintain healthy growth.

Are Pruners the Same as Secateurs?

In short, yes. Depending on where you are, "hand pruners" is a term used in America, whereas "secateurs" is a British word. You can use both types of scissors with one hand to cut back plants and gently tame shrubs and trees.

What is the Difference Between Garden Shears and Pruning Shears?

The main difference between the two is their physical size. Garden shears are smaller and easier to hold, so they are ideal for cutting foliage at a low level, such as grass. While some pruning shears, on the other hand, can be held comfortably in one hand, others can be longer in length to make them suitable for trimming back trees with low and/or new branches.

This difference in size means that you'll need to consider where you plan on storing the shears since the longer-length pruning shears may not be able to fold down.

When is a Good Time to Buy Pruners?

As with many yard tools, pruners often become more heavily discounted around the time of big sales events such as Amazon Prime Day and Black Friday. While these sales events are generally classed as being out of season, you'll be ready for the big spring prune.

You can expect to see bypass and anvil pruners as well as mini chainsaws discounted by up to 40% during the holidays. You will need to be quick to add to cart, though, since it's a popular time of the year to shop.

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

44 — 3552 Victoria Dr., Coquitlam

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom townhouse

Size: 1,596 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,022,000

Listed for: $950,000

Sold for: $910,000

Sold on: June 3

Days on market in this listing: 12

Listing agent: Erin Aldrich-Rae at ReMax All Points Realty

Buyers agent: Mike Giesbrecht at Royal LePage Sussex

The big sell: According to buyers’ agent Mike Giesbrecht, his clients were attracted to this property as it offered more space than newer, similar homes yet was new enough to avoid significant capital expenditure for building projects in the near term. A location in Coquitlam’s family-oriented Burke Mountain was another draw. The home in question is a townhouse within Mosaic’s Victoria development, a six-year-old complex that offers Mount Baker views, a clubhouse, playground, and access to nearby parks, schools and trails. The unit contains lofty 10-foot-high ceilings, south-east-facing windows, a modern open-concept kitchen with quartz countertops, matte black hardware, and a centre island for family gatherings. All three bedrooms are upstairs including a primary suite complete with a glass-surround shower in the ensuite bathroom. The lower level features a recreation room (that could be a fourth bedroom) plus an additional bathroom. The home’s monthly maintenance fee is $330.33, and it comes with two parking spaces.

2256 Garden Dr., Vancouver

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom half duplex

Size: 1,902 square feet

B.C. Assessment: N/A

Listed for: $1,998,000

Sold for: $1,965,000

Sold on: May 18

Days on market in this listing: Six

Listing agent: Jessica Chen PREC at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Cara Wong PREC at Oakwyn Realty

The big sell: Both the front and back homes within this newly-completed duplex property sold within days of each other with a thoughtfully-designed interior, modern colour palette, and spacious floorplans contributing to the appeal. Built by Mirani Homes in East Vancouver’s Grandview-Woodland neighbourhood, the property benefits from proximity to the eateries and amenities that line Nanaimo Street as well as schools and transit arteries. This particular home is the west-facing front unit and features all three bedrooms and two bathrooms on the second floor, and a top floor that boasts a versatile space in excess of 500 square feet that could be a home office, playroom, media room or used for guests. There is herringbone flooring on the main level, custom millwork, a fireplace feature wall, overheight windows, and a useful powder room. A detached single garage and a substantial crawl space offer additional storage options.

2522 Bronte Dr., North Vancouver

Type: Five-bedroom, two-bathroom detached

Size: 2,871 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $2,020,000

Listed for: $1,799,000

Sold for: $1,760,000

Sold on: May 19

Days on market in this listing: One

Listing agent: Brian Rybchinsky PREC at Virani Real Estate Advisors

Buyers agent: Kelsie Struch PREC at Stilhavn Real Estate Services

The big sell: This custom-built one-owner home was on the market for just one day before an accepted offer was received. Situated in the heart of Blueridge, the two-storey house features a generous layout with more than 1,500 square feet on the main level and a little less than that downstairs. There are oversized windows and skylights throughout the main floor that allow for an abundance of natural light to fill the home, generous-sized rooms with hardwood floors, a double-sided fireplace, a solid oak kitchen, and recessed lighting. The lower level provides equally expansive rooms with a recreation room, kitchen, great room, and two bedrooms. On the outside, there is more than 400 square feet of elevated sundeck with steps that lead down to a beautifully manicured lot that enjoys a 67-foot-wide frontage and 135-foot length. Blueridge consists of a series of cul-de-sacs that are linked by walking paths with schools, parks, and a coffee shop nearby.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

Related

• Sold (Bought): Marpole home offers flexible living arrangements
• Sold (Bought): Cambie townhouse offers resort-style living with full suite of amenities

If you’ve found yourself at your door juggling grocery bags, boxes and baby while fruitlessly searching your pockets for those darn keys, smart locks can get you in. They work through a Bluetooth or Wi-Fi connection using an app on a smartphone or via integrated home security systems or devices like Google Nest , Amazon Echo or Apple’s HomeKit to unlock your door hands-free.

Not only can you go completely keyless, you can program these handy devices to generate a temporary code for guests, deliveries, housecleaners, dog-walkers and other services. They also take the worry out of wondering if you locked the door or left it ajar. They even maintain an activity log so you can check on your home remotely.

Most smart locks work with the lock you already have or you can get a complete deadbolt that you can easily install yourself (more complicated devices might need a pro).

Unlock the right lock for the right door

There are tons of types of smart locks for any kind of door that will operate via PIN codes, fingerprint scans, Wi-Fi, smartphone apps, or keypads. Some locks allow you to program more than 50 fingerprints and over 200 different access codes. Set up is done using a separate app or on the lock itself.

The New York Times’ Wirecutter reviewers, Consumer Reports, Popular Mechanics and even Mike Holmes named Schlage as a top pick for its reliability, ease of installation and use, as well as its heavy metal encasing with the ability to withstand 250,000 cycles and 10 door strikes with a hammer (?!).

“Today’s smart locks use a combination of technologies,” says Katherine Tmej, marketing manager for security company Allegion, Schlage’s manufacturer. “Bluetooth provides a reliable local connection, Wi-Fi lets you manage your locks remotely, and newer technologies that are Matter-certified (meaning they work across different brands and platforms like Apple Home, Google Home and Amazon Alexa) help improve connectivity across the smart devices in your home.”

She says the new Schlage Sense Pro Smart Deadbolt , featuring Schlage Converge technology with Ultra-Wideband (UWB), Matter and Thread networks, detects when you’re at your door and ready to enter then it will unlock hands-free. You can also tap to unlock your door with Apple Home Key using your iPhone or Apple Watch; by keypad code entry; and one-touch locking on your way out. The company’s Encode Plus, with Apple Home Key support, built-in Wi-Fi and a BHMA Grade 1 deadbolt, gets high marks for withstanding Canada’s frigid temps.

Speaking of which, Canadian company Alfred Smart Locks manufactures commercial grade door hardware that’s specifically designed with our climate in mind, using specialized seals that keep the lock from freezing in temperatures down to -35C.

Utilizing Bluetooth connectivity, Z-Wave (a low-energy wireless signal similar to Bluetooth) with Google Home or Alexa apps, Alfred locks work through a touchscreen PIN pad, fingerprint scanner or physical key. The Alfred DB series alerts you to who’s entering your home and when, handles up to 20 PIN codes, and comes with a physical key override. They also get top marks for looking so good in their chrome, gold or black finishes.

The Yale Assure Lock 2 Plus gets good reviews for its versatility without the bulk of similar locks. The module also works with Bluetooth, as well as Apple Home and Z-Wave, and lets you tap your iPhone or Apple Watch to unlock your door. It also stores a virtual key in your Apple Wallet. The built-in Wi-Fi module lets you track comings and goings, gives you real-time alerts, and locks and unlocks the door from anywhere using its app.

The Aqara U200 is coveted by tech heads for its ease of integration with a variety of smart home ecosystems including Amazon Echo or Alexa, Google Home or Apple Home. It uses a fingerprint scanner, PIN code, app, NFC Card, Apple Wallet virtual keys, as well as a physical key, pairs with Apple Home Keys and connects via Bluetooth or the Zigbee wireless mesh network.

The Lockly Visage Zeno deadbolt not only has built-in Wi-Fi, Apple Home Key, Apple Watch, 3D fingerprint sensor using AI, and PIN codes, it utilizes facial recognition in one second to unlock automatically, even at night using infrared. It also allows you to use Siri to unlock your door. Each of the two rechargeable batteries lasts up to eight months. In fact, it’s a good idea to keep an eye on your battery power and expect to replace them every six to eight months, depending on usage. Also, keep up with software and firmware updates for extra security.

You can also get smart locks through telecommunications companies as part of a monthly fee. Telus offers smart locks through Weiser Home Connect 620 with keypad access, remote control, and SmartKey technology (which also allows you to use your existing key) as part of their SmartHome+ subscription. Rogers’ Smart Door Lock Touchscreen Electronic Deadbolt system, which also uses Weiser, is available through its Smart Home Monitoring plan.

Screw it

Installing most smart locks is pretty straightforward, requiring roughly 15 minutes and a simple screwdriver if you’re replacing an existing deadbolt or installing one in a new door that’s pre-drilled. It takes longer if you’re installing a new deadbolt in a door without one.

The locks usually include the bolt, exterior keyed lock or keypad, and interior thumb lever and plate that replace your existing deadbolt, or you can place them above it. Or you can simply replace the interior thumb lever and plate and use the existing deadbolt and exterior keyed lock.

For backup, most companies offer a step-by-step guide to installation as well as answers to any questions around usage and troubleshooting.

Tmej says the difference between doorknob and lever handle replacement locks comes down to a balance of style, function and accessibility. “Many homeowners select a lever or doorknob based on the look they want to achieve, while lever handles are generally easier to operate for people of all ages and abilities. Regardless of the style, the deadbolt, not the handle, is the primary security component for exterior doors.”

Smart locks are available from Amazon, Home Depot and Best Buy with prices ranging from $78 to over $400, depending on features and home compatibility.

Cybersecurity protections

Manufacturers insist that their locks are pick-proof and hacker-resistant. But Michael Felgner, SST-TQ, RSE, RSC, PID, and BCIT instructor for its Security Systems Technician Program, says, “Any technology is hackable. Any functionality has a failure rate. In my own personal opinion, you are forfeiting a lot of security for convenience. When your smartphone comes in proximity to your property, the door will unlock, the alarm will turn off. If someone takes your phone, they don’t necessarily need to access the phone, they just need to have it in proximity to the residence and they have access.

“Generally speaking, locks with a key are incredibly reliable. There’s no app, no ongoing fees, no recurring revenue you have to pay out to somebody else. So from a cost perspective, really good quality locks are an incredibly good investment.”

He also questions personal data protection when you hand over your personal information to use companies’ apps. “If you have a system out of the U.S., you have no data sovereignty. Does the company have the right to sell your information? Who’s the custodian of that information and what happens with it? We in Canada have much better privacy protections than the U.S. but most of these products, like Nest or Google, are American-based and they have the right to the data that you have to give them in order for these things to work.”

He concedes, though, that if you choose quality products with reputable suppliers “you should have no trouble”.

Tmej says you don’t have to be a cybersecurity expert but you should look for locks that have an established track record in security and ongoing software support. “While most smart locks use encrypted communication, the difference is often in how manufacturers manage vulnerabilities over time through regular firmware updates, responsible security testing and long-term product support. Keeping your lock’s firmware up-to-date is one of the most important things you can do to maintain both security and reliability. Our smart lock offerings are convenient to use without sacrificing homeowner security. They’re designed with the latest encryption technologies to ensure they are secure and only authorized individuals can communicate with them.”

A great solution for heatwave summers, low-growing groundcover plants act as a living mulch to lock moisture into the soil and protect roots from extreme temperatures. And groundcover doesn’t need to be boring! These fabulously flamboyant flowering groundcover plants will bring months of beautiful blooms to borders, and keep your garden full of color into fall.

If it’s been a while since you looked at groundcover plants, you’ll be astonished to discover some dazzling new varieties that combine all the benefits of traditional groundcover with the ornamental delights usually only seen in far taller plants. There’s even a groundcover hydrangea for goodness sake!

So forget the usual fodder of forgettable groundcover and try a showstopper instead. Here’s my pick of the most eye-catching groundcover plants to keep your soil cool and your borders packed with blooms into fall.

1. Groundbreaker Hydrangea For a Sea of Blooms

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

• Zones 5-8
• Full sun to partial shade
• Grows 12-16" tall and 24-32" wide

Let’s start with the plant most likely to cause serious neighbor envy, shall we? Because if you plant this groundcover carpet of color-changing hydrangea blooms, expect everyone to ask what is! The fabulous new Groundbreaker series of hydrangeas brings all the beauty of the perennial blooms we all know and love to ground level. The world’s first-ever spreading groundcover hydrangea, this plant grows out instead of up, only reaching 12-16 inches high yet spreading up to 32 inches wide. Well-branched stems mean lots of conical flowers, and the blooming period lasts a whopping 100 days.

Launched two years ago, Groundbreaker hydrangeas only became available to buy in the United States in July 2026, and they’re proving hugely popular. And no wonder: growing panicle hydrangeas is straightforward to begin with, but these have been bred to be especially low maintenance.

So if you want one, you’d better be quick as these beautiful hydrandgeas are selling out fast. At the time of writing, all three Groundbreaker hydrangea varieties are available from Plant Addicts. Groundbreaker Blush Hydrangea has large white flower panicles in midsummer that gradually develop blush pink tones. Groundbreaker Ruby Hydrangea also blooms white but its flowers deepen to a rich ruby red, while Groundbreaker Greeny Hydrangea transitions the other way with blooms opening a bright lime green then gradually softening to a creamy white.

2. Drift Rose For Three-Season Color

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 4-11
• Full sun to partial shade
• Grows 1-2' tall and 3' wide

The series of Drift roses are a cross between full-size groundcover roses and miniature roses, so while they’ll bring abundant color to a border, they won’t take over. These rebloomers produce wave after wave of flowers from spring till late fall and are self-cleaning, which means you don’t need to deadhead. They’re super-easy to look after, too, being highly resilient against common rose issues including black spot and powdery mildew.

There are all sorts of fabulous colors to choose from, and some have transitioning tones. In fact, the only downside to these low-maintenance roses is that they only have a mild scent, or no fragrance at all.

Nature Hills stocks a great selection of Drift roses. Popcorn Drift blooms a golden yellow and transitions to cream, while Coral Drift, Peach Drift and Apricot Drift also have color-shifting blooms in a variety of warm tones. Sweet Drift is a ravishing pink with around 30 petals on each flower, while Pink Drift has simple single blooms that are better for pollinators. Red Drift holds its bright scarlet color even in a hot summer.

3. Blue Waterfall Bellflower for a Designer Look

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

• Zones 4-8
• Partial to full sun
• Grows 6-10" high and 24-36" wide

There are lots of good things to say about this pretty plant, but perhaps its finest asset is that it’s often employed by landscape designers, so instantly brings a professional look. While Campanula poscharskyana ‘Camgood’ is typically housed in a pot or a hanging basket, its trailing stems make excellent groundcover, speedily spreading around larger plants.

And this little perennial is sure to attract attention with its ice-blue star-shaped flowers that last through summer into fall.

While this perennial grows quickly, it doesn’t run out of control, and happily thrives in pretty much any soil, as long as it gets at least 5 hours of sunlight a day. The small, bright green heart-shaped leaves are super-pretty, too. Blue Waterfall Bellflower plants are available from Plant Addicts.

4. Firewitch Dianthus For a Small Garden

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Grows 4-8" high and 1' wide

Yes, small gardens need groundcover too! Firewitch dianthus makes for brilliant groundcover in a small garden as it’s incredibly well-behaved but works hard to form a dense, weed-blocking mat of pretty silvery-blue leaves. With a flurry of pink flowers all through spring and summer – and fall, if you shear off faded blooms – Dianthus gratianopolitanus was bred to give maximum color for minimum effort.

What’s more, the spicy, clove-like scent of the flowers is a wonderful addition to hot summer days, while the foliage is evergreen in most climates.

Each plant spreads to around a foot wide so, depending on the size of your border, you’ll need to add a few, and single and multi-pack Firewitch Dianthus plants are available from Fast Growing Trees.

5. Silvery Sunproof Liriope For Rippling Leaves

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 6-11
• Partial shade
• Grows 1-2’ high and wide

This variegated monkey grass forms clumps rather than spreads, so it makes excellent groundcover to underplant a border of bigger perennials or shrubs where controlling a more vigorous plant would be tricky. This drought-tolerant plant can even cope in dry shade once established, so it won’t mind a jot that trees and shrubs are sucking most of the moisture out of the soil.

The striped leaves are evergreen in most climates and, in midsummer, purple flower spikes add to the show and last through fall. Liriope ‘Silvery Sunproof’ plants are available from Nature Hillsand are tolerant of pollution so will thrive roadside, and is even rated as Firewise in several states. While monkey grass typically needs partial shade to thrive, this variety tolerates sunlight far better than most others.

6. Cool Wave Pansies For Instant Cheer

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

• All zones
• Full sun or partial shade
• 6-8" high and 24-30" wide

These little gems light up a tired border and don’t be fooled by the dainty, delicate appearance – they're tough cookies and bloom for months on end. In fact, this is one of the longest-blooming pansies available. While pansies are typically planted in patio pots and hanging baskets, this is a trailing variety so spreads to form groundcover in a border and quickly but politely fills gaps between bigger perennials. Pansies can be planted in summer in zones up to 9, so put this on your list of July garden jobs.

How Cool Wave pansies behave will depend on your climate, but they’re an excellent way to bridge the summer-to-fall gap in all zones. In zones 5 through 11 they’ll survive the winter: in zones 5-6, they’re dormant through winter but bounce back in spring; in zones 7-9, they’ll bloom pretty much continuously through all four seasons; in zones 10-11, wait for the intense heat of summer to pass before planting for endless cool-season flowers. In cooler zones 4 and below, treat these beauties as annuals and plant afresh each spring.

Pansies prefer cooler conditions and will fade in hot temperatures so, in a hotter zone, plant in a partially shady spot that doesn’t bake in the midday sun; in cooler zones, it’s fine in full sun.

Pansies can be challenging to grow from seed so it’s best to skip straight to the good bit with young plants. Cool Wave Morpho pansy plants are available from Burpee in a striking purple-blue and yellow combo, and the color intensifies as temperatures drop. Cool Wave Raspberry Swirl pansy plants are also available from Burpee, with a pretty mix of rosy, golden tones.

7. SunSparkler Dazzling Dynamite Sedum for Low Maintenance

(Image credit: Future/AI)

• Zones 4-9
• Full sun
• Grows 4-8" tall and 1-2' wide

If you want to add color to a border without upping the workload, Sedum ‘Dazzling Dynamite’ should be your go-to solution. This well-behaved low-growing perennial is extremely heat- and drought-tolerant once established, and while pollinators love it, deer typically don’t touch it. That burgundy-red foliage is vibrant enough on its own, but when topped with bright pink flowers through summer and fall, SunSparkler Dazzling Dynamite Sedum is a real showstopper.

Unlike some sedums that fade in summer heat, this keeps its color well, and Dazzling Dynamite plants are available from Nature Hills. The succulent leaves slowly spread to form a dense mat, even on poor soil, making this one of the most low-maintenance groundcover plants you can get.

You don’t want to be swatting flies constantly, but you also don’t want your patio to look like a bug research facility. The standard arsenal, i.e., zappers, sticky traps, and chemical sprays, is just not attractive, and that means gardeners are often forced to choose between enjoying their outdoor space and protecting it.

Luckily, you don’t have to make that choice, as there are 3 patio features that pull double duty so you barely notice the pest control side of things. For more on the most common flying pests you're likely to be dealing with this summer, check out our guide to the most common garden pests before you shop.

1. Pest-Repellent Container Plants

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

The easiest and prettiest solution to annoying bugs on a patio is also the most overlooked: the right plants, positioned in the right place, can act as a natural deterrent without a single spray or chemical in sight. Mosquitoes, flies, and wasps fly through their environment mostly by scent, and there are some plants with a smell that actively disrupts their ability to locate you.

Lavender, lemongrass, citronella geranium, rosemary, and basil are the heavy hitters. Planted in pots and placed close to seating areas, they release enough fragrance on a warm evening to make your patio way less appealing to anything that might want to sting or bite you. The effect is even stronger if you pinch a few leaves or even brush past them; this will cause the plants to release oils into the air around you.

The most important thing is placement. A single pot in the corner of the garden isn’t going to do much. You’ll need to cluster three or four aromatic plants close to where you sit and eat, and ideally create a small border around the area. You can even mix different species for more pest coverage: lemongrass targets mosquitoes, while lavender works on moths and flies, and rosemary deters cabbage moths and carrot flies in addition to general flying pests.

Mosquito Repellent Trio

Clovers Garden Mosquito Trio Nine (9) Mosquito Repellent Live Plants

This is 9 plants in total and covers 3 species, all grown in the Midwest, and ready to be potted or planted directly. You can put them together in a large container near a seating area or dot them around your patio for a fragrant display that is also highly practical.

Hidcote Lavender

Clovers Garden English Lavender Hidcote Blue – Two (2) Live Plants

These are the perfect companions to the citronella trio. The compact Hidcote Blue lavender at the end of a chair or along a path edge releases enough linalool on a warm summer evening to make your patio considerably less interesting to mosquitoes, moths, and flies.

2. Sheer Mosquito Net Curtains

(Image credit: MelanieMaya / Getty Images)

This is a patio feature that looks like it came straight from a resort in Bali. Plus, it happens to be one of the most effective physical barriers against flying insects available. Sheer mesh curtain panels hung from a pergola, gazebo, or porch roof create a sort of outdoor room that keeps mosquitoes, midges, and flies out while letting light, air, and the view completely through.

The visuals are actually super beautiful. The soft, billowing fabric creates a lovely light in the evening, a sense of enclosure that makes the space feel more intimate and designed, and as a bonus, provides privacy from neighbors. In reality, though, it's simply a curtain rod and some lightweight polyester mesh.

The real trick is the density of the mesh. Unfortunately, standard garden netting has holes large enough for small insects to pass through, but proper mosquito curtain fabric uses a tighter weave (around 970 holes per square inch) that blocks even the smallest flying pests while remaining breathable and see-through. Look for panels that are waterproof-coated so they survive a summer of outdoor use, machine washable, and are large enough to drape properly.

Outdoor Mosquito Net Curtains

RYB HOME Outdoor Mosquito Net for Porch or Patio

At nearly ten feet wide per pair and just over eight feet long, these waterproof mesh panels are large enough to properly enclose a pergola or porch opening without looking skimpy. The fine-density mesh blocks mosquitoes and flying insects while staying light and airy; they’re easy to hang on any standard outdoor curtain rod due to the pocket at the top, and the adjustable length means they can be trimmed to fit your space.

3. The Thermacell Patio Shield

This one doesn't look like much, but it packs a punch! It’s just a small, palm-sized device you place in the center of your table, but it's the closest thing to invisible pest control available. It works so well that it’s the go-to recommendation from outdoor entertaining professionals. The Thermacell Patio Shield uses a heat-activated repellent mat powered by a compact butane cartridge to diffuse a scent-free, DEET-free zone of mosquito protection fifteen feet in every direction. No smoke, no smell, no sprays, no visible effort. Simply set it in the middle of the table, wait fifteen minutes, and you’re good.

The reason it earns its place in a "beautiful patio features" list is precisely that it doesn't look like pest control. The brushed metal edition in particular looks like a small table accessory. It's the kind of thing your guests notice and ask about, not something you hide behind a citronella candle. The repellent mats change color when it's time to replace them, which is super handy, and each fuel cartridge runs for twelve hours.

Note: Position it upwind of where you're sitting for maximum effect; keep it away from strong breezes that reduce the protection zone. You can pair it with a border of lavender and lemongrass for a real pest management strategy.

Patio Shield Mosquito Repeller

Thermacell ZoneGuard Mosquito Repeller

The standard version at a lower price point comes with a fifteen-foot protection zone, heat-activated technology, and a 12-hour fuel cartridge included.

There is a brushed metal finish version available on the Thermacell website, and while it’s a little pricier, the aesthetic is well worth it.

Every summer, I find myself wanting the same thing from my containers: big, beautiful color without having to spend every evening dragging a watering can around the yard (no offense, plants, but I have better things to do). I love a lush-looking planter, but I also want to enjoy my garden – not spend the entire season keeping it alive.

Over the years, I’ve learned that the secret is choosing the right flower combinations. The best containers aren’t always the ones with the most blooms packed into them – they’re the ones filled with drought-tolerant plants that can handle heat, occasional missed waterings, and those long stretches of hot weather (which seem to be hitting us with alarming frequency) that can turn a pretty planter into a wilted mess overnight.

No container can survive indefinitely without water, especially during extreme heat or in smaller pots that dry out quickly, of course. Choosing tough, heat-loving plants, though? Well, that can reduce how often you need to reach for the hose in a surprisingly dramatic way.

6 Flower Container Combinations That Stay Beautiful All Summer

These flower combinations are the definition of easy breezy summer displays. They rely on resilient plants that keep performing when temperatures climb and watering becomes less frequent.

So, whether you’re gardening in a cooler USDA planting zone or dealing with a hot southern summer, these combinations give you a container that keeps looking good with less work.

Without any further ado then...

1. Supertunia, Verbena, and Sweet Potato Vine

(Image credit: Hongquang09 / Getty Images)

This is one of those flower container combinations that feels almost too easy. Supertunias provide nonstop blooms, verbena adds another layer of color, and sweet potato vine spills beautifully over the edge of the container.

I love this mix because it fills out quickly and keeps its good looks through summer heat. Once established, these plants can handle short dry spells much better than many traditional container favorites.

It is worth noting that supertunias will still appreciate regular watering in containers, but their heat tolerance and nonstop flowering make them a much better choice than many older petunia varieties.

2. Lantana, Angelonia, and Calibrachoa

(Image credit: Jaclyn Brottman / Getty Images)

If you have a sunny spot that turns into a heat trap, this is the flower container combination I would reach for. Lantana brings clusters of colorful flowers, angelonia adds height and structure, and calibrachoa creates a trailing blanket of blooms.

This trio is especially reliable during the hottest part of summer when other flowers start looking tired. It’s a great choice for anyone who wants a bright container without needing daily watering in most conditions.

Lantana and angelonia are especially tough in hot weather, while calibrachoa adds the constant color that makes the whole planter feel full and vibrant. Happy days!

3. Zinnias, Globe Amaranths, and Euphorbia

(Image credit: Joerglondong / 500px / Getty Images)

For a more relaxed cottage garden look, this combination is hard to beat. Zinnias bring bold color, globe amaranths adds charming spherical blooms, and euphorbia creates airy filler that softens the whole container.

This is the kind of planter that looks cheerful and abundant without needing constant fussing. It also attracts pollinators, making it a favorite for busy gardeners who want beauty and wildlife value.

These are all reliable heat lovers that keep performing through the toughest part of summer, making them winners in my eyes.

4. Periwinkle, Angelonia, and Scaevola

(Image credit: Education Images / Getty Images)

When summer gets brutally hot, periwinkle is one of the plants I trust most. Pair it with upright angelonia and trailing scaevola, and you get a container that keeps its shape while producing plenty of color.

This combination is especially useful for gardeners who sometimes forget a watering day or two. These plants are built for warm weather and don’t need constant pampering to look good.

Periwinkle, angelonia, and scaevola are all excellent choices for hot, sunny locations where more delicate plants can struggle (and they look so pretty!).

5. Heat-Loving Salvia, Calibrachoa, and Sweet Potato Vine

(Image credit: CBCK-Christine/Getty Images)

This flower container combination gives you a little bit of everything – height, flowers, and dramatic trailing foliage. Heat-loving salvias create vertical interest, calibrachoa fills the middle with blooms, and sweet potato vine cascades over the container edge.

I like using this mix near entrances and patios because it looks polished but still feels relaxed. It’s the kind of planter that handles busy schedules while continuing to put on a summer show.

For the best results, just take care to choose salvias known for heat tolerance, such as Salvia farinacea or Salvia greggii.

6. Portulaca, Euphorbia, and Sweet Potato Vine

(Image credit: Sumar Toyo / Getty Images)

Not every low-water container needs to be packed with large blooms; sometimes the secret is choosing plants that naturally thrive in dry conditions.

Portulaca brings bright, cheerful flowers, euphorbia adds delicate texture, and sweet potato vine ties everything together with trailing growth. This is a combination that can handle sunshine and heat while still looking full and colorful.

It’s especially useful for gardeners who want a beautiful container without having to constantly monitor moisture levels. Who doesn’t love that?

Shop Container Garden Essentials:

Terrain Brass Snail Watering Can

Bold as brass, this watering can (and its cheeky snail friend) is a reproduction of a charming vintage find.

FoxFarm Happy Frog Potting Soil

A favorite with our very own Tyler Schuster, this has been amended with earthworm castings, bat guano, and aged forest products for nutrient-rich goodness.

ArtFamy Hanging Baskets for Plants

These sturdy hanging baskets use a coconut coir design, which makes for good air permeability and drainage.

A beautiful summer pot doesn’t have to mean constant watering and daily maintenance. If you get creative with your flower container combinations, you can create planters that keep looking fresh through the hottest days of summer and well into fall (and make your neighbors green with envy at the same time).

Last one to the potting shed is a rotten egg, I guess!

A successful outdoor space keeps blooming continuously from spring through fall, depending on the local climate. Not only does this provide you with ongoing color and visual interest, but it also feeds your local pollinators. Step outside on a warm July afternoon, and your yard likely feels like a thriving, buzzing haven. However, this midsummer abundance can hide a quiet crisis for native wildlife.

As early spring perennials fade and summer heat accelerates flower burnout, nectar availability drops. For worker bumblebees storing winter reserves, native solitary bees feeding late broods, and monarch butterflies fueling for their migration, this summer gap can seriously reduce feeding opportunities. This is why it’s crucial to make sure you have pollinator plants available for the next couple of months.

What you (and your pollinators) need are resilient bloomers that thrive in warm soil and flower continuously until frosts arrive. By growing these now, you provide an essential lifeline for visiting pollinators for weeks to come. These gorgeous plants reward your efforts with minimal ongoing care, vibrant color, and lasting visual structure. Grow these summer-to-fall nectar-rich bloomers for your bumble queens and migrating monarchs, and you’ll keep them nourished well into the fall.

Grow Pollinator Flowers in Summer

A continuously flowering yard attracts local bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. So now is a great time to plant a few late bloomers that can service your pollinating community. If you’re planting in USDA hardiness zones 3-9, it’s all about minimizing transplant shock and establishing strong root networks quickly. Summer soil is warm, but it also dries out rapidly. Remember native late-bloomers prefer sunny spots. Give these plants 6-8 hours of direct light for maximum nectar and pollen synthesis.

Clear away competing weeds and break up compacted earth, down to 8 inches (20 cm). Most heat-tolerant pollinator plants dislike soggy roots. Use a soil meter like the XLUX Long Stem Soil Moisture Meter Sensor from Amazon to check your soil’s existing moisture levels. Mix some organic compost, perlite or coarse sand into heavy clay soils to balance water retention with good drainage.

(Image credit: Sue Zellers / Getty Images)

When planting container-grown starts, water the hole deeply before setting the plant in, topdress with a couple of inches of organic mulch, and water deeply every morning for the first fortnight until you see new growth. All this will prime your new plants to develop fast and last for longer, while preventing overwatering.

Don't forget your foraging pollinators also need a little drink. It’s a nice idea to set up a shallow hydration station to support them. You can buy a cute ceramic puddler, like the Bee & Butterfly Drinking Flower from Uncommon Goods, which is lovely for thirsty bees, butterflies, and beneficial wasps. It gives them a safe perching spot to sip clean water as they enjoy these late-summer blooms.

1. Coneflowers

(Image credit: Leekris / Getty Images)

It’s hard to go wrong with the cheerful coneflower. While traditionally purple (Echinacea purpurea), newer cultivars offer a wealth of colors, which bloom from midsummer through fall in zones 3-9. Encased in brightly toned petals, each spiky, copper disk is packed with nectar. American Beauties Native Purple Coneflowers from Plant Addicts are favorites of specialist native bees. Other butterfly-friendly coneflowers include Fragrant Angel, Ruby Star and Magnus Purple Coneflowers from Nature Hills.

Plant in full sun and well-draining soil. Deadhead any spent blooms in July to spur a second flush. Leaving the dried, seed-heavy cones intact through winter will also feed hungry birds like American goldfinches. Topdress with a gentle feed, like Espoma Organic Flower-tone Blossom Booster Plant Food from Walmart in midsummer. This supplies a steady supply of potassium and phosphorus for late-season flowers.

2. Asters

(Image credit: Peter Photos / 500px / Getty Images)

Asters are some of the most crucial late-season food sources for migrating monarch butterflies fueling up for their southward journey, as well as pre-hibernation queen bumblebees. Asters can be grown in zones 3-8, depending on the type. These colorful flowers bloom reliably in late summer, and through fall in most places. Choose native species like New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), when possible. You can buy Hirt’s Gardens Wood’s Pink Asters from Walmart and Perennial Farm October Skies Asters from Amazon, to enjoy a long bloom timel.

New England asters provide a massive blanket of rich jewel-toned color. They develop dense clusters of purple, magenta, and deep pink flowers centered around bright yellow disks. Grow them in full sun for the most flowers. They prefer moist, well-draining soil rich in organic matter. You can add a little crab meal to the soil around your asters to boost structure. Down To Earth Organic Crab Meal 4-3-0 from Amazon can help tall aster varieties build sturdy stems to withstand heavy rain.

3. Sedums

(Image credit: Diane Helentjaris / Getty Images)

Also known as stonecrop, this is a fall favorite for the magical color transformations some varieties make. Several sedum varieties bloom with clusters of flowers that extend through fall. Some, like Hylotelephium spectabile Autumn Joy, Autumn Fire, and Brilliant, change from pale pink to deep red as the season progresses. It’s a great show for you, and a steady food supply for your pollinators. Buy Clovers Garden’s Autumn Joy Sedum from Walmart as live plants for faster developing star clusters.

These wide, flat flower landing pads make nectar accessible to short-tongued beneficial insects, honey bees, hoverflies, and painted lady butterflies. Succulent, exceptionally hardy, and practically indestructible in zones 3-9, tall border sedums are quintessential late-season foundation plants. They grow well in dry soils and full sun. If your soil is clay based, add some coarse sand or a little Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix from Walmart.

4. Joe Pye Weed

(Image credit: Danita Delimont / Getty Images)

If you’re looking for a statuesque flower for your late-season pollinator garden, try this native perennial. Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum) thrives in zones 4-9 and can grow to 7 feet (2 m) tall. Its nectar-rich clusters of pink-purple flowers burst into life as many others are fading, and are irresistible to swallowtail butterflies, clearwing hummingbird moths, and native bumblebees. Buy American Beauties Little Joe from Plant Addicts for the fluffy pink landing pads that butterflies love.

Place this giant in a spot with moist, rich soil and full or partial sun. Don't allow the soil to dry out completely in heatwaves, as drought can cause lower leaf scorching. Applying an organic liquid kelp soil drench during heat spikes delivers vital trace vitamins and minerals that protect these large-leafed perennials from drought stress and leaf scorch. Buy GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp Extract from Walmart.

5. Cosmos

(Image credit: Ritam Dmitrii Melgunov / Alamy)

Not all late-season bloomers need to be perennials. Cosmos (C. bipinnatus) attracts plenty of bees and butterflies well into fall. This annual flowers profusely with good care. The open ray design makes nectar instantly accessible for smaller native solitary bees, hoverflies, and monarchs. Start best-selling Sensation Mix Cosmos from Eden Brothers for easy-access blooms to service pollinators at the far end of summer into fall. Nectar-rich Bright Lights and Sonata are also great options.

Cosmos are easy to start from seed. These feathery beauties develop in 7-8 weeks in full sun and well draining soil. Deadhead frequently to keep fresh blooms coming well into fall. While you shouldn’t add high-nitrogen fertilizers, you can condition the soil with a little biochar, such as Wakefield Premium Biochar Soil Conditioner from Lowe's. This helps soil retain water and nutrients without over-saturating roots.

6. Zinnias

(Image credit: Sue Zellers / Getty Images)

Another pollinator-friendly annual to try is the exuberant zinnia (Z. elegans). These vibrant, structural beauties are easy to grow from seed and develop quickly. Sow them in July and they’ll be blooming by September. Wide petals attract large butterflies like monarchs, swallowtails, and skippers, while the bright florets draw honey bees and bumblebees. Large-flowered varieties like Benary's Giant and State Fair offer sturdy stems and exceptional resistance to summer heat and humidity. Buy California Giant Zinnia Mix Plants from Walmart for a combination platter pollinators will adore.

Plant in full sun and harvest regularly. The more you cut, the more buds the plant sets. Zinnias keep flowering as long as the weather cooperates. These vivacious bloomers do require good air circulation to stay clear of powdery mildew. Add a splash of Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide from Amazon to protect foliage from mildew and leaf spot without harming visiting bees or butterflies.

Shop Pollinator Blooms

(Image credit: Maurice Prokaziuk / 500px/ Getty Images)

Getting your garden ready for hungry pollinators in the heat of midsummer is as easy as 1-2-3, so make some room for this trio. By selecting hardy, weather-ready bloomers and perennials designed to take warm soil in stride, you can plant today with total peace of mind. These hand-picked selections are built to settle in fast, hold their ground through late-summer heatwaves, and deliver effortless, high-impact blooms that will feed your local pollinators straight through to the first fall frosts.

Multi-Season Sensations

Summer Zing

FlowersBulbs California Giant Zinnia Mix

For a fast, cheerful burst of mid-to-late season color, these robust live plants deliver massive, dahlia-like flower heads on sturdy stems. They thrive in scorching heat and summer humidity, giving tired beds a vibrant second wind with a dependable, easily accessible feast for your native pollinators.

Native Classic

American Beauties Native Plants Native Purple Coneflower

Featuring rich magenta petals fanning out from seed-packed central cones, this iconic native perennial is as tough as it is striking. It locks effortlessly into summer beds, shrugging off heat and poor soil, while offering a long-lasting sanctuary for hungry bees and butterflies through the fading days of the season.

Sturdy Stars

Clovers Garden Sedum Autumn Joy Plants

Starting as cool, succulent greenery before shifting into clusters of dusky pink and rust-red star blossoms, this fleshy perennial is built for resilience. Unbothered by dry spells and high temperatures, it's a crucial, late-season pitstop for busy pollinators, right up until the cold weather arrives.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Let's be honest: gardening can get expensive, especially if you're planting above ground. Maybe your soil isn't good, or maybe you don't have any soil, and you're growing on a balcony or patio. Whatever the reason, the result is the same – you need containers to hold all that dirt, and those containers don't necessarily come cheap.

There's one, however, that does! It's affordable, it's ubiquitous, and it's famously durable. You already know what it is, because you saw the picture up above, but let's give it a proper introduction anyway. Say hello to the humble cinder block.

(Image credit: Simon McGill / Getty Images)

Some call then breeze blocks; some call them concrete masonry units. Everyone on the planet knows them, and they're pretty easy to come by. But have you ever stopped to consider that they're the ideal shape for planting in? Unlike bricks, cinder blocks have hollow centers (really, two hollow centers, one on each half). This is by design – it significantly reduces weight and material while keeping the whole thing structurally sound. Just fill those hollow centers with soil and voila! You've made yourself an adorable double planter.

(Image credit: Diane Macdonald / Getty Images)Is It Safe to Grow Edibles in Cinder Blocks?

Let's get this out of the way: it's perfectly safe to grow edible plants in cinder blocks. You'll find plenty of people who'll tell you it's dangerous, but this is largely due to outdated information. (I actually researched this myself years ago). Basically, cinder blocks earned their name because they used to literally be made of cinders, a byproduct of burning coal, and it's true that you probably don't want to eat that. But while the name's still around, cinder blocks haven't been commercially made this way in over half a century. (More or less since we stopped burning massive amounts of coal).

These days they're just made of concrete, cast in the same shape. That means they're exactly as safe as that expensive concrete planter you're already growing your carrots in.

Where Can You Find Cinder Blocks?

(Image credit: j0ntog3l / 500px / Getty Images)

Cinder blocks are like a lot of things – you see them everywhere until the time you actually need one. Then, all of a sudden, they're scarce! Well, that might be for the best, because unless you're getting them from a trusted source, I'd recommend buying your cinder blocks new, especially if you're growing vegetables or herbs. That's because while the cinder blocks themselves are food-safe, the same can't necessarily be said of whatever they've come into contact with. Paint, solvent, mysterious dust... the more you think about it, the less desirable it becomes to plant your parsley in that cinder block you found lying around.

The good news is, cinder blocks are cheap. You can get them for under $3 pretty much everywhere. Amazon doesn't seem to deal in them. (They do sell mini cinder blocks – don't get duped!) But you can get them delivered from The Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace Hardware.

8x8x16 Cored Concrete Block

8 in. x 8 in. x 16 in. Concrete Block

8 X 8 X 16 Heavy Cinder Block

How to Make a Cinder Block Container Garden

Cinder blocks are great for container gardens for a few reasons. They have a cohesive look, they're stackable, and you can even build larger structures with them. It's an ideal raised bed design: Outline a bed with cinder blocks, and you can plant in the holes in the walls as well as in the bed! Turn a few on their sides and stack them, and you've got a living wall. Or just pile a few into a short pyramid for instant structure and intrigue.

(Image credit: Wendy Tabor / Getty Images)

At the end of the day, what you do with your cinder block containers is limited only by your imagination. So why not get a few (you can get six for under $20) and play around with them? At this price, you can't afford not to.

With better weather upon many parts of the US, it may feel as though your lawn is becoming a second home to your pets. It's adorable to see your dog run around doing joyful zoomies outdoors, begging to play just one more game of fetch or paddling in a pet pool to fend off the summer heat.

But what isn't so great is discovering that your lawn is suffering from enthusiastic digging sessions, lawn damage from dog urine, and goodness knows what else. There's only so much strategically placing your furniture for hosting over these spots can do, especially if you have multiple dogs wreaking havoc!

If your dogs have given a bit too much love to your lawn and you're left scratching your head over how to remedy the damage, you're in the right place. I asked experts in lawn care and dog behavior for their top tips on both how to fix a lawn that has been damaged by dogs, as well as how to prevent damage from happening in the first place. You really can have the best of both worlds – a dog-friendly landscape your pups are still free to roam that stays looking fresh – just implement a few of these handy tricks.

Common Types of Lawn Damage From Dogs

The most common problems your lawn may be facing due to your beloved dogs are pee spots, digging damage, and paw traffic.

The salt that naturally occurs in the urine of a dog will scald your lawn, especially when paired with sunny weather. Dogs often tend to pee in the same spot while marking their territory, so over time repeatedly exposing the grass to urine will result in brown patches in your grass. These patches will eventually die and require reseeding.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A dog mid-dig is having the time of their life, but their owner watching on as their lawn is covered in holes won't be feeling quite as happy. This can be particularly frustrating if you just managed to get your lawn how you like it and now its progress has become undone.

In the trio of problems here, paw traffic is a less considered factor when it comes to lawn damage, but it can have more of an impact on your grass than you may first think.

Dogs repeatedly running on a lawn will compact the soil underneath their feet, potentially stunting the growth of grass blades. This can lead to thinning grass that struggles to absorb water as easily and, over time, patches of grass in your yard may look fuller than others.

How to Fix & Prevent Pee Spots

(Image credit: Teamjackson / Getty Images)

If your lawn has brown pee scald patches due to dog urine, the best thing to do is to treat the area before trying any preventative measures. The easiest way to do this is to plant new grass seed and/or apply a lawn regrowth product, such as this pet patch repair treatment from Walmart, to anywhere that has been impacted.

Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, explains, "For existing damage, the best solution is to reseed or overseed the affected areas, which can help regenerate the grass.

"Using lawn repair products specifically formulated for pet urine damage can also be helpful, because they are often made with a mix of grass seed and soil conditioners to promote healthy regrowth. But always consult with your veterinarian if you have any concerns before you use them in your lawn."

In terms of preventative measures Ali Smith, a dog trainer and behavior consultant at Rebarkable has a great trick. Don't aim to stop your dogs from peeing on the lawn, aim to make the pee unable to scald the grass.

She explains, "The urea in the pee scalds the grass, so if you use a sprinkler (or a watering can!) directly after your dog has gone to the toilet it will help dilute the pee."

How to Fix & Prevent Digging Damage

(Image credit: sssss1gmel / Getty Images)

If your dogs have dug up the lawn, begin by filling in any holes in your yard from pets with soil and reseeding the area. But if it's a problem that keeps reoccurring, it's important to consider why your dogs might be digging so much in the first place.

Allison explains, "It's important to address the root causes of why your dogs may be digging so much, like boredom or excess energy. Make sure your dogs gets plenty of exercise, playtime, and mental stimulation to reduce the urge to dig.

"If they are still digging, you can designate a specific digging area with toys or treats that can help redirect their behavior away from your entire lawn. If your dogs dig for attention, reinforce positive behavior by rewarding them when they’re not digging."

If this doesn't seem to be doing the trick, Allison also recommends turning to natural forms of deterrent such as diluted vinegar or citrus peels to keep your dogs away from damage-prone areas of the yard.

How to Fix & Prevent Paw Traffic

(Image credit: gorodenkoff / Getty Images)

Craig Elworthy, founder of Lawnbright, explained to me that "constant paw traffic can lead to worn-out paths and compaction, creating bare patches over time."

Bare patches or tracks are best being reseeded so new growth can fill them in. But if your lawn has become compacted, using a lawn aerator, like this one from Amazon, is a great way to let it breathe again. It works by loosening up the soil, enabling water to better penetrate into the ground and reach the roots of your grass.

Regularly aerating your lawn going forward will help to prevent major compaction from developing in the future. Putting barriers such as a pet-friendly fence or garden furniture in the way of areas that you don't want to gain additional wear and tear is a good move, too.

If you have a local park that allows dogs, opting to take your dog there a couple of times a week to give your lawn a break from paw traffic can help a lot as well.

Shop Pet-Friendly Lawn Care Products

Sunday Pet Patch Spray

Reverse dog damage to your yard with this ready-to-use repair spray. It can treat up to 50 spots in your lawn.

Happy Paws Lawn Saver Soft Chews Supplement for Dogs

These tasty treats for your pup prevent pee spots before they ever happen. It naturally makes your dog's urine less acidic and prone to marking your grass.

Walensee Manual Lawn Aerator Tool

Fix compacted soil from pets (and people) running around your yard with this simple, yet effective lawn aerator.

When most people imagine a garden, they dream up a white picket fence with climbing roses and a sunny yard full of butterflies. It often lines the front yards of every idealized suburban home, and it’s become synonymous with a certain kind of domesticity. All you need is a golden retriever, and the image is complete.

However, once you actually have it in your own yard, the cons become clear pretty quickly. A traditional white picket fence often goes up to a maximum of 3 feet. Charming if you want to keep your border looking neat, absolutely useless when it comes to privacy, as nosy neighbors, passers by, and anyone with a dog can see directly into your front garden.

On top of that, it is one of those fence ideas that offers no wind protection or sound barrier. If you want a private garden boundary, it’s about as useful as a politely worded sign.

7 Boundary Ideas Replacing the White Picket Fence

Look, modern front yard fencing has come a long way; nowadays, there is a lot more emphasis on those boundaries that do much more than simply mark a line in the ground. And there are structures that offer real screening, suit many more garden styles, and last much longer than a painted softwood picket fence that requires maintenance every year.

Before doing any shopping, it’s worth checking out the latest fence paint color trends for 2026. And then, with that in mind, look this way for where to slop that paintbrush...

1. Outdoor Cedar Wood Privacy Screen with Aluminum Posts

The cedar wood privacy screen gives you all the looks of a horizontal fence panel but without digging into your yard or any permanent installation. It’s super versatile as the posts can be anchored in soil or hard surfaces, which means you can put it along a boundary, use it to screen a seating area, or position it anywhere you want some coverage.

RNSOLKG Outdoor Cedar Wood Privacy Screen

Best in modern front yards or patios, for people renting who want a boundary that isn’t permanent, and for anyone who just wants the warmth of natural wood without fully committing to a permanent fence.

This one is five feet tall, so it’s the perfect balance between decorative and functional. However, each panel is 40 inches wide so you’ll need a few put side by side.

The upside to this? Why, you can buy exactly as many as you need rather than committing to a fixed length upfront.

2. Mininfa Natural Rolled Bamboo Fence

Bamboo fencing fits into a particular sweet spot: it's really natural and eco-friendly, and it has a warmth and texture that a vinyl or metal fence could just never. It stands at 6 feet tall, meaning you get privacy with a lot more character than a standard timber panel.

Mininfa Mininfa Natural Rolled Bamboo Fence, Eco-Friendly Bamboo Fencing, 0.7 in D X 6 Feet High X 8 Feet Long, Bambou Screen for Garden, Privacy

It comes in a rolled format, meaning it can follow the contours of your boundary without needing perfectly level ground, and you can attach it to an existing chain-link or post fence to give it a small facelift. The hand-treated bamboo poles are held together with galvanized steel wires. In layman's terms, this means corrosion resistance, and the natural material blending into your plants rather than competing with them.

It works best for tropical-inspired gardens (when people think bamboo, they immediately think of the jungle), coastal settings, casual cottage-style spaces, and anyone who wants privacy without the industrial look of metal.

3. VEVOR Artificial Ivy Privacy Fence Screen

If you’re looking for a fast and budget-friendly way to transform your boundary, artificial ivy screening attached to an existing fence is a great idea. When done well, it looks seriously convincing from far away.

WUPUSDER Artificial Ivy Fence Privacy Screen With Mesh Back, 72" X 96" Faux Ivy Vine Leaf Fence Panels, Balcony Privacy Screen, Hedge Wall Decoration for Outside, Garden, Yard, Patio

This VEVOR panel uses UV-resistant artificial leaves on a reinforced mesh backing. It covers a solid 6-by-8-foot section per panel, meaning you can attach multiple panels side by side along a fence, railing, or wall for lush-looking coverage. The great thing about artificial is that you don’t need to water it, trim it (ivy grows super fast!), or maintain it throughout the seasons. While it would never fool a botanist close up, it can create a green, private boundary on a rental property, or along a fence when real planting isn’t an option.

This is best for renters, balconies, shady places where real plants won’t grow, and budget-conscious gardeners who want the look without the wait.

4. Kozyard 2-Pack Privacy Screen with Planter

This is one of the most clever options, as it’s a freestanding privacy screen with built-in raised planters; that means you can have your boundary and garden bed all in one. It has a rust-resistant aluminum frame with wood-plastic composite boards, meaning it’s weatherproof and very well-built. It measures at just under 6 feet tall with a dual-sided slat design you can put either way depending on which side of the screen you want to look at.

Kozyard Kozyard 2pack Privacy Screen With Planter, 70" H X 51" W Outdoor Garden Screen, Waterproof Aluminum Frame With Thick Wood-Plastic Boards, Decorative Privacy Screen for Patio, Balcony & Backyard Gray

You can use it to divide a patio from a garden, create a private corner around a seating area, or line a boundary where you want both screening and flowers. You can plant lavender, trailing herbs, ornamental grasses, or climbing sweet peas in the integrated planter and you've created a functional, beautiful boundary feature all in one single purchase. This works best for patios (it’s a great space saver), balconies, modern gardens, and anyone who wants to combine structure and gardening without two separate projects.

5. FOOWIN Metal Privacy Screen Outdoor Set of 2

Laser-cut metal privacy screens are having a real moment, and this leaf-pattern panel from FOOWIN is a really great example of why. It’s 6 feet tall, which means it brings height, but the cut-out design feels light and breathable. It comes in a set of 2 that can be put somewhere by themselves as statement dividers, or you can put them side by side along a boundary. The freestanding bases are great because they don’t require any digging or permanent installation.

FOOWIN Foowin Metal Privacy Screen Outdoor Set of 2, 72" H×47" W Privacy Fence, Privacy Fence Panels Freestanding,for Patio Garden Balcony,bamboo Leaf-Black

The matte black powder coat is weatherproof and maintenance-free, while the modern flower motif suits a variety of styles, from “modern minimalist” to “nature-inspired” gardens. These work best for people who want a boundary that is decorative while still being functional, and anyone who finds a solid fence panel to be too heavy while a lower picket fence is too exposed.

6. 6FT Outdoor Metal Privacy Screen — Freestanding Decorative Fence Panel with Stand

If you don’t like the idea of digging into your garden, this freestanding screen is the perfect option. Plus, it can be moved and repositioned easily as your garden grows and evolves. It’s a weather-resistant, practical choice at 6 feet tall.

WIZWERK 6ft Outdoor Metal Privacy Screen – Decorative Privacy Fence and Room/garden Divider, Weather-Resistant Freestanding Panel With Stand, Durable Steel for Patio, Garden, Balcony, or Backyard

It’s quite a substantial panel that can be used by itself as a garden divider or linked with more panels to create a longer boundary. The matte black powder coat finish is weatherproof and maintenance-free. On top of that, it includes a base with anchoring hardware to keep it stable without posts or permanent fixings. It’s ideal for renters, patios or anyone who doesn’t want to commit to something permanent.

It works best for patios, temporary boundaries, and people who want a boundary with flexibility. If you’re always changing your mind about the layout of your garden, this is the privacy screen for you.

7. WamBam Fence No-Dig Classic White Vinyl Privacy Fence

If you just can’t let go of the white picket fence but you need something that gives you more privacy and lasts more than a couple of years, this is the fence for you. WamBam's no-dig vinyl system uses a patented post anchor that drives directly into the ground without concrete or post-hole digging; essentially, this means it’s a perfectly manageable DIY project.

WamBam Fence 6ft H X 6ft W (1 Panel + 1 Post) Permanent No Dig Wambam Fence Kit, Durable White Vinyl Privacy Fence, Bli19110

Vinyl stays white and straight without maintenance. It’s an update to the traditional white picket fence you’ve always wanted, but it’s twice the height, gives you the privacy you want, and has that classic, all-American look. It’s traditional, so it works best for old-school front yards, cottage gardens, and anyone who wants a white picket fence aesthetic without the exposure.

Fence Treatment Ideas

Cabot Wood Toned Stain + Sealer (Cedar, 1 Gallon)

Cabot Cabot Wood Toned Stain + Sealer, Low Voc Exterior Natural Wood Stain, Cedar, Gallon

This is the most straightforward way to protect a natural wood fence as well as enhance the look. You just need 1 coat of this oil-based stain to penetrate the timber, bring out the grain, and provide mildew-resistant, water-repellent protection. It’s available in cedar and other natural wood tones.

DEFY Extreme Semi-Transparent Wood Stain and Sealer (1 Gallon)

DEFY Defy Extreme Wood Stain and Sealer in One - 1 Gallon Semi-Transparent Waterproof Coating for All Wood Types - Butternut

This is a water-based stain and sealer that rates high among independent reviewers. DEFY Extreme works. DEFY Extreme works on all wood types and allows the grain to show through. You can simply clean it up with soap and water.

Wood Defender Transparent Fence Wood Stain and Seal in One

Wood Defender Wood Defender Transparent Fence Wood Stain and Seal in One, Oil-Based Penetrating Sealer, Professional-Grade, Long-Lasting, Weather-Resistant Protector, Cedar Tone, 1-Gallon

This is a penetrating oil-based stain and sealer. It’s formulated specifically for exterior wood fences, and you only need one coat with no back-brushing necessary to bring out the natural grain of cedar, redwood, and pine. It also provides long-lasting UV and weather resistance.

Your Garden, Your Boundaries — Find the Fence That Actually Fits

Yes, the white picket fence has had a good run. But your garden should be your own, and the best fence for it is the one that actually suits your lifestyle, not the one that fits a certain ideal from a different era of gardening. Whether you want six feet of cedar for privacy, a bamboo roll for a natural feel, or a laser-cut metal panel that doubles as garden art, the options available now are way more interesting than the traditional alternative.

One thing worth resisting (as this is true for more than just fences) is the urge to follow trends just to please others. What looks beautiful in a magazine might be completely wrong in your own garden or look odd with the style of house you have. Think about what problem you want to solve, whether that’s nosy neighbors, wind protection, or a better backdrop for planting, and let that be a starting point.

When most people imagine a garden, they dream up a white picket fence with climbing roses and a sunny yard full of butterflies. It often lines the front yards of every idealized suburban home, and it’s become synonymous with a certain kind of domesticity. All you need is a golden retriever, and the image is complete.

However, once you actually have it in your own yard, the cons become clear pretty quickly. A traditional white picket fence often goes up to a maximum of 3 feet. Charming if you want to keep your border looking neat, absolutely useless when it comes to privacy, as nosy neighbors, passers by, and anyone with a dog can see directly into your front garden.

On top of that, it offers no wind protection or sound barrier. If you want a private garden boundary, it’s about as useful as a politely worded sign.

7 Boundary Ideas Replacing the White Picket Fence

Look, modern front yard fencing has come a long way; nowadays, there is a lot more emphasis on those boundaries that do much more than simply mark a line in the ground. And there are structures that offer real screening, suit many more garden styles, and last much longer than a painted softwood picket fence that requires maintenance every year.

Before doing any shopping, it’s worth checking out the latest fence paint color trends for 2026. And then, with that in mind, look this way for where to slop that paintbrush...

1. Outdoor Cedar Wood Privacy Screen with Aluminum Posts

This cedar wood privacy screen gives you all the looks of a horizontal fence panel but without digging into your yard or any permanent installation. It’s super versatile as the posts can be anchored in soil or hard surfaces. This means you can put it along a boundary, use it to screen a seating area, or position it anywhere you want some coverage.

RNSOLKG Outdoor Cedar Wood Privacy Screen

Best in modern front yards or patios, for people renting who want a boundary that isn’t permanent, and for anyone who just wants the warmth of natural wood without fully committing to a permanent fence.

This one is five feet tall, so it’s the perfect balance between decorative and functional. However, each panel is 40 inches wide so you’ll need a few put side by side.

The upside to this? Why, you can buy exactly as many as you need rather than committing to a fixed length upfront.

2. Mininfa Natural Rolled Bamboo Fence

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Bamboo fencing fits into a particular sweet spot: it's really natural and eco-friendly, and it has a warmth and texture that a vinyl or metal fence could just never. Especially as it stands at six feet tall, which means you get privacy with a lot more character than a standard timber panel.

Mininfa Natural Rolled Bamboo Fence

Best for tropical-inspired gardens (when people think bamboo, they immediately think of the jungle), coastal settings, casual cottage-style spaces, and anyone who wants privacy without the industrial look of metal.

Bamboo fencing comes in a rolled format, meaning it can follow the contours of your boundary without needing perfectly level ground, and you can attach it to an existing chain-link or post fence to give it a small facelift.

The hand-treated bamboo poles are held together with galvanized steel wires. In layman's terms, this means corrosion resistance, and the natural material blending into your plants rather than competing with them. Perfect.

3. VEVOR Artificial Ivy Privacy Fence Screen

If you’re looking for a fast and budget-friendly way to transform your boundary, artificial ivy screening attached to an existing fence is a great idea. When done well, it looks seriously convincing from far away.

WUPUSDER Artificial Ivy Fence Privacy Screen

This is best for renters, balconies, shady places where real plants won’t grow, and budget-conscious gardeners who want the look without the wait.

This VEVOR panel uses UV-resistant artificial leaves on a reinforced mesh backing. It covers a solid 6-by-8-foot section per panel, meaning you can attach multiple panels side by side along a fence, railing, or wall for lush-looking coverage.

The great thing about artificial is that you don’t need to water it, trim it (ivy grows super fast!), or maintain it throughout the seasons. While it would never fool a botanist close up, it can create a green, private boundary on a rental property, or along a fence when real planting isn’t an option.

4. Kozyard 2-Pack Privacy Screen with Planter

This is one of the most clever options, as it’s a freestanding privacy screen with built-in raised planters; that means you can have your boundary and garden bed all in one.

It has a rust-resistant aluminum frame with wood-plastic composite boards, meaning it’s weatherproof and very well-built. It measures at just under 6 feet tall with a dual-sided slat design you can put either way depending on which side of the screen you want to look at.

Kozyard 2pack Privacy Screen With Planter

This works best for patios (it’s a great space saver), balconies, modern gardens, and anyone who wants to combine structure and gardening without two separate projects.

You can use this boundary idea to divide a patio from a garden, create a private corner around a seating area, or line a space where you want both screening and flowers.

You can plant lavender, trailing herbs, ornamental grasses, or climbing sweet peas in the integrated planter and you've created a functional, beautiful boundary feature all in one single purchase.

5. FOOWIN Metal Privacy Screen Outdoor Set of 2

Laser-cut metal privacy screens are having a real moment, and this leaf-pattern panel from FOOWIN is a really great example of why. It’s 6 feet tall, which means it brings height, but the cut-out design feels light and breathable.

It comes in a set of 2 that can be put somewhere by themselves as statement dividers, or you can put them side by side along a boundary. The freestanding bases are great because they don’t require any digging or permanent installation.

FOOWIN Metal Privacy Screen

These work best for people who want a boundary that is decorative while still being functional, and anyone who finds a solid fence panel to be too heavy while a lower picket fence is too exposed.

The matte black powder coat on this boundary idea is weatherproof and maintenance-free, while the modern flower motif suits a variety of styles, from “modern minimalist” to “nature-inspired” gardens.

Perfect, basically!

6. 6FT Outdoor Metal Privacy Screen

If you don’t like the idea of digging into your garden, this freestanding screen is the perfect option. Plus, it can be moved and repositioned easily as your garden grows and evolves. It’s a weather-resistant, practical choice at 6 feet tall.

WIZWERK 6ft Outdoor Metal Privacy Screen

This works best for patios, temporary boundaries, and people who want a boundary with flexibility. If you’re always changing your mind about the layout of your garden, this is the privacy screen for you.

It’s quite a substantial panel that can be used by itself as a garden divider or linked with more panels to create a longer boundary. The matte black powder coat finish is weatherproof and maintenance-free.

On top of that, it includes a base with anchoring hardware to keep it stable without posts or permanent fixings. It’s ideal for renters, patios or anyone who doesn’t want to commit to something permanent.

7. WamBam Fence No-Dig Classic White Vinyl Privacy Fence

If you just can’t let go of the white picket fence but you need something that gives you more privacy and lasts more than a couple of years, this is the fence for you.

WamBam's no-dig vinyl system uses a patented post anchor that drives directly into the ground without concrete or post-hole digging; essentially, this means it’s a perfectly manageable DIY project.

WamBam Fence Permanent No Dig Wambam Fence Kit

This traditional boundary idea works best for old-school front yards, cottage gardens, and anyone who wants a white picket fence aesthetic without the exposure.

Vinyl stays white and straight without maintenance. It’s an update to the traditional white picket fence you’ve always wanted, but it’s twice the height, gives you the privacy you want, and has that classic, all-American look.

Shop Fence Treatment Ideas:

Cabot Wood Toned Stain + Sealer

This is the most straightforward way to protect a natural wood fence as well as enhance the look. You just need 1 coat of this oil-based stain to penetrate the timber, bring out the grain, and provide mildew-resistant, water-repellent protection. It’s available in cedar and other natural wood tones.

DEFY Extreme Wood Stain and Sealer in One

This is a water-based stain and sealer that rates high among independent reviewers. DEFY Extreme works. DEFY Extreme works on all wood types and allows the grain to show through. You can simply clean it up with soap and water.

Wood Defender Transparent Fence Wood Stain and Seal in One

This is a penetrating oil-based stain and sealer. It’s formulated specifically for exterior wood fences, and you only need one coat with no back-brushing necessary to bring out the natural grain of cedar, redwood, and pine. It also provides long-lasting UV and weather resistance.

Your Garden, Your Boundaries

Yes, the white picket fence has had a good run. But your garden should be your own, and the best fence for it is the one that actually suits your lifestyle, not the one that fits a certain ideal from a different era of gardening.

Whether you want six feet of cedar for privacy, a bamboo roll for a natural feel, or a laser-cut metal panel that doubles as garden art, the options available now are way more interesting than the traditional alternative.

One thing worth resisting (as this is true for more than just fences) is the urge to follow trends just to please others. What looks beautiful in a magazine might be completely wrong in your own garden or look odd with the style of house you have.

Think about what problem you want to solve, whether that’s nosy neighbors, wind protection, or a better backdrop for planting, and let that be a starting point. Good luck!

Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are a brand new type of hydrangea that bring a sweep of showstopper groundcover blooms to your garden. Just launched in America this July, these plants are selling out super-fast – and no wonder! The conical flowers last for 100 days and slowly change color for a sweep of multi-toned petals, and well-branched stems make for abundant blooms. And this striking summer show returns year after year for very little effort.

Growing out rather than up, Groundbreaker Hydrangeas only reach 12-16 inches high but spread 24-32 inches wide. Being a panicle hydrangea makes it low-maintenance to start with, but these resilient, reliable bloomers are particularly easy to grow. Unlike trad hydrangeas, these plants don’t need staking and are straightforward to prune, too, even for beginner gardeners.

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Suitable for zones 5-8, this low-level beauty can be grown in borders, containers, and as path edging. Its neat size makes it ideal for compact gardens and urban yards and, as quick and clever ideas for container gardens go, it's a winner! Those horizontal-habit stems will cascade from a tall planter or large hanging basket, too. Already one of the biggest garden trends of 2026, because Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are so versatile as well as hassle-free, these perennials make great gifts – for yourself as well as family and friends!

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)What are Groundbreaker Hydrangeas?

Groundbreaker hydrangeas are the world’s first groundcover hydrangea series. Bred from panicle hydrangeas in the Netherlands by Dutch breeder, Alex Schoemaker of Living Creations, this breeding breakthrough is an entirely new, innovative form of the popular shrub we all know and love. The Schoemaker family has been growing hydrangeas for six generations, and Alex specialises in Hydrangea paniculata. His goal? To develop new formulas with stronger stems, more colors and longer lifespans.

The low-growing habit of this hydrangea series first came about by chance during the pursuit of these objectives, when a particularly short plant cropped up among many, many hybrids in the test fields. In time, three cultivars of this new hydrangea form were developed, all with the trademark cone-shaped flowers of Hydrangea paniculata but with that groundbreaking groundcover habit.

Groundbreaker Blush Hydrangea

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Blush was the first Groundbreaker hydrangea to be bred in 2017, and was launched in 2024, becoming available to UK gardeners in 2025. Large white flower panicles bloom in July and gradually develop deepening blush pink tones, and the plant grows 12 inches high and 24 inches wide.

Groundbreaker Greeny Hydrangea

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Greeny followed, with flowers opening a bright lime green and petals gradually softening to an elegant creamy white. A little larger than Blush, Greeny grows to 16” high and 32” wide.

Groundbreaker Ruby Hydrangea

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Ruby was released for the 2026 season. This stunner’s blooms emerge white and slowly transition to a rich ruby red, and it grows to 16 inches high and spreads to 28 inches wide.

Where to Buy Groundbreaker Hydrangeas

While it takes many years to bring a new plant to market, US availability has lagged behind that in Europe because of import restrictions, but plants finally became available in July 2026.

Only released through a few speciality retailers, Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are pretty hard to get hold of, making them the hottest botanical ticket in town right now. At the time of writing, all three varieties – Blush, Ruby and Greeny – are available to preorder for October shipping from Plant Addicts. But you’d better be quick if you want one!

Dazzling display

Groundbreaker® Ruby™ Hydrangea

Blushing Blooms

Groundbreaker® Blush™ Hydrangea

Fresh Citrus Tone

Groundbreaker® Greeny™ Hydrangea

While it’s galling to have to wait a few months to get your hands on such a fabulous plant, a fall planting is far less stressful for any shrub, but particularly a hydrangea that likes to stay hydrated. The benefits of planting a hydrangea in fall are plentiful, but first and foremost, you’ll give your new hydrangea plenty of time to make itself at home and sink its roots deep into the ground before it faces the stress of summer heat, next year. A strong root system means a far more bountiful display of blooms, too.

How to Grow Groundbreaker Hydrangeas

Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are one of the easiest to grow when it comes to essential hydrangea care. These plants need full sun or partial shade, with a minimum of four hours of sunlight a day, and well-drained soil. This is easily achieved in the ground by mixing compost into the soil before planting, either homemade or a product such as R&M Organics Premium Compost, available from Amazon. In a container, use an all-purpose moisture control potting mix such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix, available from Walmart.

While plants will need regular watering while they establish, mature plants will only need irrigating during prolonged dry periods. Plants in containers will need more regular watering.

Most hydrangea care happens in spring. Like all panicle hydrangeas, Groundbreaker blooms on new wood. This means it needs a hard-prune in March – exact timing will depend on your zone but do it before the first buds break. Pruning is simple: all stems should be cut to 8 inches above the ground using a pair of bypass hand pruners such as Fiskars All Steel Bypass Hand Pruners from Lowe's.

Minimal feeding is needed, but a light liquid seaweed fertilizer such as TPS Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon, in early spring can be beneficial. A yearly natural mulch in March will provide all the necessary nutrients and help to keep moisture in the soil and insulate roots from temperature extremes.

Hardy down to -22, Groundbreaker hydrangeas are suitable for zones 5-8, where they don’t need any winter protection. For full groundcover, plant in staggered rows at plant width intervals, or further apart if you want separate mounds.

(Image credit: Harries Plantdesign GmbH & Co. KG)

Peppers hit an odd stretch in midsummer. The plants look their best right when the strain is heaviest, carrying a full load of fruit while the soil dries out by noon. Plenty of gardens quietly stop setting new pods in July, but the drop in production doesn't turn up until August.

The good news is that growing peppers in July comes down to a short list of jobs rather than a rescue mission. None of them take long. What they share is a focus on steadying the plant instead of pushing it. Even moisture matters more right now than any feeding schedule, and peppers coming off at the right point keeps the plant making more of veggies to eat.

Consistent care in July will set up your pepper plants for a huge harvest and continued healthy growth. Here are the most essential – but easy-to-do – tasks to check off your list before August arrives.

1. Fertilize for Fruit, Not Foliage

(Image credit: VH Studio / Shutterstock)

Nitrogen did what it needed to do in June. By July it starts working against your pepper plant, pushing leafy growth at the expense of flowers and leaving a big handsome pepper bush with very little hanging on it.

Plants already carrying fruit want less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, which is why Lilly Miller Morcrop 5-10-10 tomato and vegetable food from Amazon matches the stage the plants are actually in.

Side-dress plants lightly instead of generously – work roughly a tablespoon per plant into the soil about 6 inches (15 cm) out from the stem, then water fertilizer in. Reapplying every three or four weeks is plenty.

After fertilizing peppers, it takes time for the results to appear. So there's nothing to judge the next morning and a heavy hand in midsummer heat can cause fertilizer burn that are already under pressure.

2. Water Deeply & Consistently

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Blossom end rot in peppers usually isn't from a calcium shortage in the soil. It's actually a delivery failure. The plant can't move calcium into developing fruit when the ground swings from soaked to dust and back to damp after watering.

Water pepper plants deeply two or three times a week. They prefer that over a daily splash. Water plants on roughly the same schedule week after week. If you're unsure, a finger pushed 2 inches (5 cm) into the bed settles the question of whether or not you need to water again. If soil is dry at that depth that means water now.

Wet foliage is what leaf disease waits for, and is part of why a heavy-duty soaker hose from Home Depot beats a sprinkler. Water for 30 to 45 minutes along the row of plants so moisture soaks down at root depth with nothing landing on the plant.

Add mulch to hold in moisture and protect from heat. Use straw or shredded leaves at 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm) deep and the soil quits cooking by mid-afternoon.

3. Protect From Scorching Sun

(Image credit: Tatiana Maksimova / Getty Images)

Pepper flowers don't form or develop into fruit when days climb past 90°F (32C) and nights hang above 75°F (24°C). Pollen turns sterile, the flower drops, and the plant carries on looking perfectly healthy while setting nothing at all. It's a common reason a July pepper plant seems to quit for a few weeks, and the fruit already on board will keep sizing up through it, which hides the problem for a while.

Shade in the 30 to 40 percent range, run from late morning through the worst of the afternoon, can pull leaf temperature down enough to keep pollen viable. A panel of 40% sunblock shade cloth from Walmart hung on hoops or tied off between stakes does the job and comes down once the forecast eases. The plants keep enough light to carry on growing. It's a filter, not a lid.

4. Support Growing Peppers

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Pepper stems are brittle and a branch loaded with fruit tends to split from the main stem during the first hard storm that comes through. That single break can take a third of the harvest with it. A plant that's already leaning has waited too long for support.

Stake pepper plants with supports driven 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm) deep beside the main stem. 4-foot bamboo stakes with garden twine from Amazon are perfect for this job. Tie with a figure-eight so the stem isn't cinched against the stake and leave the tie slack so the trunk can continue to thicken through August. Attach ties loosely at two or three heights to support the whole plant.

5. Pick Early & Often

(Image credit: DUSAN ZIDAR / Shutterstock)

Peppers left to fully ripen on the plant send a signal that the season's work is done, so flowering slows to match. Sweet peppers picked at full size while still green will push the plant to set another round of fruit.

Picking sweet peppers early is fine. A green pepper on the counter is the same pepper it would have been in the garden, just minus a couple weeks of waiting. Harvesting hot peppers is the exception, since capsaicin keeps building as they color up.

Harvest peppers by cutting at the stem with pruners instead of pulling, since a tug can take the branch with the pepper. Check every two or three days once the fruit starts coming.

Pick anything that's split or showing soft spots, even if it's nowhere near ready. Damaged fruit draws common pepper pests and gives the plant no reason to keep working.

Trends come and trends go, and we’re not just talking heel heights and skirt lengths. Today, social media can bounce the popularity of a vehicle, a child’s toy, and even a species of dog in hours, and lots of folks will head out in search of one. And yes, this applies to garden plants as well. Garden trends and flower trends appear in a flash, only to get whisked away when something else blows into the limelight. Remember when manicured landscaping was all the rage? How about living walls?

Hyper-trendy ornamentals are often bred for viral shock value rather than real-world hardiness. When a temperamental trend-plant crisps up in a heatwave or succumbs to summer humidity, you’re left with a patchy border and plenty of disappointment. Chasing novelty requires constant intervention, and relentless fussing. So why not catch your breath and make some room for the plants that resonate beyond the trends – those flowers, perennials and shrubs that are always… just right?

We are here to advocate for the elegance and endurance of the forever classics that effortlessly outlive flash-in-the-pan trends. These timeless garden icons have done the heavy lifting in countless yards for years, and refuse to be categorized or treated as fads. While these “oldies but goodies” might appeal to trend-lovers for their vintage luxury, they are both a practical and a lovely choice for growers in any decade. Offering multi-season beauty, natural weather tolerance, and permanent curb appeal, it’s time to meet the anti-trend plants.

Grow Anti-Trend Forever Plants

For growers who have jobs, kids, friends, relationships, places to go and things to do, there’s a lot to be said for the garden classics. Timeless plants have survived generations of fluctuating weather patterns, shifting soil dynamics, and pests. They often offer deep root systems that cope with short droughts, and reliable flower power that attracts native pollinators year after year. So by stepping off the trend treadmill, you swap high-maintenance anxiety for effortless, multi-seasonal beauty.

Can you plant these classics during the height of summer in July? You bet, provided you give them time to establish. Depending on your growing zone and local climate, midsummer heat means root systems need a little support ahead of autumn. Before planting, check your site’s moisture retention and drainage with the help of a good soil meter tool, like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon.

(Image credit: © Frédéric Collin / Getty Images)

Heavy clay holds excessive water, while overly sandy soils let nutrients wash straight through. A little perlite or coarse sand can help improve drainage, while sprinkling organic matter (such as aged compost) in the planting hole can cushion young roots against thermal shock. After planting, add a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of organic mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from The Home Depot to suppress weeds and regulate temperatures. You’re then ready to meet the lush and lovely plants that have stood the test of time.

1. Old-Fashioned Bleeding Heart

(Image credit: Cyndi Monaghan / Getty Images)

The trending gift for Valentine’s Day is the heart-leaf hoya (H. kerrii), a single, plump green succulent that, over time, develops into a vine of succulent hearts. It’s cute, but it doesn’t have the style or history of an old-fashioned bleeding heart. Ask your grandparents if their childhood garden included these flowers (Lamprocapnos spectabilis, formerly Dicentra spectabilis). This unusual and eye-catching plant was called the finest hardy perennial of the 19th century.

Today, this dainty ornamental is a favorite of the perennial shade garden. It’s easy to grow, blooming profusely in early spring and early summer, with heart-shaped flowers dangling from arching stems. Plant old-fashioned bleeding hearts in a part-shade location in zones 2-9. Pair its soft, weeping silhouette with structured companions like broad-leafed hostas, Japanese painted ferns, or astilbe. You can buy Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart from Nature Hills as live plants.

Plant in partial to full shade, keeping it sheltered from afternoon sun. You can add Down To Earth Organic Crab Meal (4-3-0) from Amazon for a slow-release soil amendment that builds resilience. The flowering season ends when summer warmth rolls in. Cut back the leaves and stems as they wither, and reduce watering as the plant goes dormant, and you will see these enchanting hearts again next year.

2. Oakleaf Hydrangea

(Image credit: Billy_Fam / Getty Images)

Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) is not one of those trending hydrangeas that shoots up in a matter of months or has neon shades, like Let's Dance Rave. Instead, this native deciduous shrub grows slowly, topping out at 4-8 feet (1.2-2.4 m) tall with long-lasting flower clusters. They appear snowy white, fading to antique rose. For extra wow factor, the leaves are shaped like oak leaves. Unlike other hydrangeas which can flop in the heat, the oakleaf is a uniquely tough North American native.

These varieties just need well-draining, acidic, nutrient-rich soil. Water well in June and add a thick layer of mulch to keep the soil moist. An organic feed, such as Espoma Organic Holly-Tone Fertilizer from Walmart, helps to keep foliage lush and healthy. This shrub handles drought and heat far better than trendy mopheads once established in zones 5-9. For the timeless lacey look, try Snowqueen, Snowflake, or Proven Winners Gatsby Glow Ball Oakleaf Hydrangea from Fast Growing Trees.

3. Purple Coneflower

(Image credit: Fasil Tiru / 500px / Getty Images)

I’ve noticed a trend this year for soft pastels. Faded Petal, a blush-gray hue, was named as Garden Media Group’s 2026 Color of the Year. But I say, go for bright purple! Gardeners of old loved purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea) for all the reasons they are considered easy-care perennials today. As species plants, they are hardier than recent hybrids, and give wildlife better access to nectar and seeds. Flowers appear in midsummer and last right through the growing season. They may not be trendy, but they are tough and pretty.

You can buy American Beauties Native Purple Coneflowers from Plant Addicts for large tufty orange cones flanked with bubblegum purple petals. These classic perennials just need a site with direct sun and well-draining soil in zones 3-8. Water well if the weather is dry. A little Down To Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal (3-16-0) from Lowe's can also help forge deep root development for continuous midsummer blooms.If you deadhead early flowers in June, it encourages extra blooms later in summer. Leave some late fall seed heads intact for wintering goldfinches.

4. Common Lilac

(Image credit: Yuliia Kokosha / Getty Images)

Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) has been part of cottage gardens for centuries, so it makes sense that it isn’t considered trendy. Rather, it’s an old-fashioned and long-lived flowering shrub, beloved for its fragrant blooms. The species plant can grow to 16 feet (5m) tall and 12 feet (4m) wide, with soft purple flowers blooming in May. Hardy across USDA zones 3-7, a well-sited lilac bush routinely outlives the gardener who planted it. You can buy Common Purple Lilac from Fast Growing Trees as live plants for a generous, low-maintenance bloomer that butterflies adore.

These shrubs just need 6-hours a day of direct sunshine and loamy, well-draining soil. If it is hot, give them a deep drink from time to time. If you’d like to improve ground conditions, you can buy Wakefield Premium Biochar Soil Conditioner from Lowe's to improve aeration, balance drainage, and prevent nutrient leaching. Just don’t prune late in the summer or fall, or you’ll accidentally be cutting off next spring’s exquisite floral display. Instead, prune within two weeks after blooming finishes.

5. Peony

(Image credit: Svetlana Repnitskaya / Getty Images)

Calling peonies (Paeonia spp.) old-fashioned classics is a bit of an understatement. They are among the oldest species of plants and have been grown in Asian gardens for thousands of years. After the colonists brought the first peonies to America, their popularity grew quickly, and by the early 20th-century, they were adored by many. These days, there’s so much to love about a peony. Producing heavily scented blooms, from silk-like singles to lush, ruffled doubles, they bring unmatched luxury. And the plants belong in your will, since they can live longer than their owners. If you’re stuck for choice, you can’t go wrong with hot pink Paeonia ‘Kansas’ or fluffy mammoth ‘Sarah Bernhardt’, both available from Plant Addicts.

Peony plants require little maintenance, if you plant them in a proper location. They just need at least six hours of sun, shelter from winds, and deep, fertile, moist soil in zones 3-8. Peonies bloom from late spring through early summer. Don’t cut back green foliage right after flowering finishes, but let the leaves stand to gather energy for next year's display. Peony foliage can be susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis blight. Spray a little bio-fungicide, such as Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart, to keep leaves in good shape through fall.

6. Nasturtiums

(Image credit: Outback to Coast / Getty Images)

With succulents trending as easy-care filler plants this year, you aren’t likely to see photos of nasturtium on Instagram. But these old-fashioned classics are as vibrant and long-flowering as they come. My grandmother grew nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) in New Jersey, her grandmother grew them in Poland, and now I grow them in San Francisco and France. This cottage garden classic with its bright bugle blooms, can grow almost without any effort. The seeds are big, they germinate within a week, and they flower through fall. Oh, and they reseed readily in zones 9-11.

For an elegant, classy twist on the conventional (very lovely) tones, there are some lovely heirloom options, such as salmon soaked Vesuvias, available from Eden Brothers as seeds. Or, if you can’t decide on one color, opt for Supernova Mixed Nasturtiums, available from Burpee as seeds, for a rainbow of abundant petals. Nasturtiums delight in poor, lean soils where other ornamentals struggle. Where soils are compacted or heavy clay, just add a few scoops of coarse sand, or Hoffman Western Desert Sand from Walmart, into the planting site.

7. Lavender

(Image credit: Viktoriya Skorikova / Getty Images)

Graceful, understated, instantly identifiable, and effortlessly elegant, lavender (Lavandula) is like the Audrey Hepburn of your yard. It doesn't rely on gimmicks, just structured foliage, silvery stems, and fragrant flower spires that delight the local bees and butterflies. For compact borders, pathway edging, and cold winter hardiness, English lavenders (L. angustifolia) like Hidcote and Munstead are perfect. If you have muggy midsummers, grow lavandins (L. x media) like Phenomenal, which is resistant to winter dieback, root rot, and humidity, while producing oil-rich flower wands that fill the air with scent. Buy Southern Living Phenomenal Lavender from Fast Growing Trees.

Thriving across zones 5-10, this Mediterranean native loves lean soil. Plant it in full, unshaded sun and sharply draining soil. If your ground is heavy clay, mix in some coarse sand. Cut back stems by one-third after blooming to maintain a tight, bushy mound, but avoid cutting into old woody stems. To keep your plants thriving year after year, just sprinkle a small handful of a gentle all--purpose feed like Espoma Organic Plant-Tone Plant Food from Amazon around the base. Pair with coneflower or ornamental grasses for a sunny border that never goes out of style.

Shop Anti-Trend Essentials

(Image credit: Serhii Brovko / Shutterstock)

Selecting resilient, time-tested perennials and shrubs midsummer is just the beginning of an epic love affair that can last a lifetime. And now is a great time to start with these plants. By skipping delicate trend-plants in favor of proven, weather-hardy classics, you can cultivate an inviting, high-end layout that matures beautifully with every passing year. So why not establish your yard's forever style today?

Timeless Trio

Heirloom Luxury

Plant Addicts Pink Sarah Bernhardt Peony

Featuring ruffled, pale-pink double blooms with a sweet scent, this historic peony variety brings vintage luxury to sunny borders. Highly durable in zones 3-8, it grows more breathtaking with each passing decade.

Iconic Structure

Fast-Growing-Trees.com Proven Winners® Gatsby Glow Ball™ Oakleaf Hydrangea

This native shrub features massive green-white flowers that mature to soft pink over oak-like foliage. It delivers exceptional hardiness and multi-season allure in zones 5-9.

Pastel Forager

Eden Brothers Nasturtium Vesuvius Seeds

An elegant twist on traditional orange nasturtiums, 'Vesuvius' offers watercolor salmon-pink blossoms over lily-pad style foliage. Fast-growing, edible, and drought-tolerant, this beauty thrives on neglect across all growing zones.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

You’re moving homes, which means your family and your pets are also packing up and moving along with you. But what about your plants? Many of us consider our plants as part of our extended family, and I am one of them. I tend to rescue plants other people toss out with the garbage. Once you’ve nursed a junked plant back to glorious health, you just can’t leave it behind when you move.

Yet moving plants to a new home can have legal repercussions that you may not see coming. I know, since I’m a plant lover and a lawyer. Part of it depends on where you are moving and part depends on whether the plants are from outside in the garden.

It’s important to understand the legal issues before you move your plants to a new home. I'll walk you through the legality of moving plants to a new home, so you don't get in trouble.

Legal Issues When Moving Plants

You love your plants and can’t help but feel that they love you, too. So it’s natural to want to take them along with you when you move. While container plants are a bit more practical to travel with than those growing in the landscape, you’ll want to take a close look at the laws before packing up any of your plants.

There are two primary types of legal issues around moving with plants. The first (and perhaps easier) challenge involves state and national borders. This issue involves the question: can I take this type of plant into a new state or country? The second issue involves plant ownership. It asks the question: whose plants are they after you sell your house?

(Image credit: Marina Meshcherskaia / Getty Images)Moving Plants Across State Lines

So you pack up the car with your suitcases, your kids, your dog, your cat and your 17 favorite houseplants. If you are headed to another town in the same state, you shouldn’t have any problems – other than squeezing everybody in.

If, however, your move will take you across state or national borders, you may have issues. Even when crossing from one state into another, some plants are forbidden. Moving plants across state lines is governed by the United States Department of Agriculture and state-specific agricultural quarantines.

In general, it is illegal to move plants between states if your plants harbor pests or diseases or have been declared federal noxious weeds, like kudzu and witchweed.

Other restrictions are in place as well, but they vary by destination. These include the prohibition to take any citrus plants into California and Florida to prevent the spread of different citrus diseases.

They also include restrictions on taking any plants that are hosts for the emerald ash borer (largely ash trees) and the Japanese beetles (plants like maple trees, birches, linden trees, roses, flowering crabapples, hibiscus, crape myrtles, and viburnum).

Finally, it is largely prohibited to take any natural soil across state lines. That means that any container plants with soil from the garden in the container cannot be transported legally. Only sterile, soilless potting media is permitted.

Moving plants across international borders is even more fraught legally. For example, if you're moving to Canada, your houseplants must have a Phytosanitary Certificate from the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) and must be bare roots.

Travel into other countries with plants may be even more restricted. The best rule is: know before you go. Call the nearest consulate and ask before trying to move plants into a new home in a different country.

(Image credit: Phynart Studio / Getty Images)Removing Plants From Your Old Yard

Are you sure you are really the owner of that shrub in your old yard? Before you dig it up to take it with you to your new home, make sure you know the rules about plant ownership.

Yes, you planted that hydrangea, that rose bush, or that Meyer lemon tree in the backyard some years back. You bought it at the garden store, dug the hole, planted the roots, and nurtured the plant. Now it’s time to leave and you’re thinking it would look nice in your new home’s garden.

But is it legally yours? If you rented the home you are leaving, it might belong to the landlord. In most states, plants that are attached to the soil by their roots belong to the property owner.

That means that outdoor shrubs permanently planted in the ground are considered legal “fixtures” and belong to the landlord of your old home. Even if a tenant plants the shrubs themselves, they generally cannot remove them when moving out without the landlord's permission

There may be issues even if you owned your old property. If you are moving because you sold the property, ownership of the outdoor plants may have passed to the new owner with the sale of the house.

As a general rule, outdoor shrubs that are planted in the ground belong to the buyer when the sale closes. They are classified as fixtures and automatically transfer with the house. Sellers cannot dig them up unless explicitly stated in the purchase contract that the seller will take ownership of certain plants.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What You Can Do

• Before moving day, figure out what plants you wish to take with you. Do your research to understand whether or not you can take them to your new home.
• Take cuttings from the in-ground plants you particularly love to root and plant at the new home.
• If a particular outdoor shrub is very dear to you, negotiate with your landlord, if you are a tenant, to be able to dig it up and take it with you. If you are selling your home, write in explicit exceptions for the outdoor plants you wish to take.

What You Can't Do

• When crossing borders, never lie to a state or federal agent about the plants you are carrying. This could cause you to be subject to large fines or even to be criminally charged and sent to prison.
• Never dig up outdoor plants if you are not the current owner of the property. Your landlord or the new buyer can charge you with theft and/or sue you for the replacement cost.

Tools to Help You Move Plants

Felco F2 Pruning Shears

Take cuttings of your favorite plants with these pro-approved pruning shears from Felco.

Back to the Roots Organic Perlite

Perlite is a great medium for propagating plant cuttings to prevent root rot and promote good root growth.

Burpee Superseed Windowsill Seed Starting Tray

A reusable planting tray like this one is perfect for planting cuttings and seed starting. Try both methods to bring your favorite plants to your new home.

There's something uniquely annoying about an old tree stump, isn't there? It's too solid to dig out yourself (unless you're feeling particularly dedicated), professional stump grinding isn't cheap, and every time you look at it, it seems to become even more of an eyesore.

If you've searched for ways to get rid of one, you've probably stumbled across every trick in the book. Drill holes and fill it with Epsom salt. Burn it. Cover it with plastic. Grow a new tree from it. Wait for nature to take its course (only another decade or so!).

I should know; I briefly considered all of them when trying to figure out what to do with my own pesky tree stump. Instead of spending hundreds of dollars trying to make the stump disappear, though, I had a thought: why not make it into something I actually wanted to look at?

How I Hid My Tree Stump

Rather than paying through the nose to remove my old tree stump, I decided to embrace it instead... and, no word of a lie, it's since become one of my favorite parts of my garden.

Now, I know that some people transform their old tree stumps into benches, or fairy gardens, or decorative sculptures. Mine wasn't nearly big enough for such grand designs, tragically. Instead, I planted evergreen vines around the base and simply let them do what they do best: climb.

Within a couple of seasons, the stump had almost completely vanished beneath glossy green foliage. And, instead of a dead reminder of the tree that used to be there (RIP, tree; I still miss you), it has become a lush pillar of greenery that looks like it has always belonged.

(Image credit: Akihiro Umehara / Shutterstock)

Now, the unexpected bonus wasn't how good the stump looked; it was who moved in. Every summer, toads make their way beneath the curtain of green leaves, where the old stump stays cool and damp even during hot weather.

I'll occasionally catch one peeking out from underneath the foliage before disappearing back into its shady hideaway. It's not just a toad abode, though; the dense evergreen cover also provides shelter for insects and spiders, while the decaying wood beneath continues to support fungi and countless beneficial organisms.

What was once a dead feature has quietly become a living ecosystem. And, even in the middle of winter, when much of the garden has gone to sleep, the stump stays green, giving the space a little structure and a wonderfully overgrown, Secret Garden feel.

(Image credit: Marina Troynich/Getty Images)

Now, I garden in the UK, where English ivy is easy (and non-problematic) to grow, but there are plenty of alternatives if you're gardening in the US. Something like creeping fig in warmer regions, Virginia creepers (available as bare root plants from CZ Grain Stor) or even a stunning Climbing Hydrangea from Nature Hills if you're happy to wait for it to establish can create a similarly , leafy effect.

If you don't want a permanent climber, annual vines can also disguise a stump for the growing season. Or you could go ultra fancy and try growing your birth month vine over your own personal stumpery.

It should go without saying that there are times when stump removal makes sense. If the stump is diseased, causing safety issues, or sits exactly where you need to build a patio or plant a new tree, removing it is probably the right call.

Shop Vines & Creepers:

Florida Foliage Creeping Fig Vine

CZ Grain Virginia Creeper Bare Root Plant

Brighter Blooms Climbing Hydrangea

If it's simply ugly, though? Well, I think hiding it is often the better solution. After all, professional stump grinding can be surprisingly expensive, especially for larger stumps. Leaving the stump in place means you avoid disturbing the surrounding soil and nearby plant roots, while allowing the wood to decompose naturally over time.

By covering it with evergreen planting instead, you're solving the cosmetic problem without creating waste... and you're adding habitat at the same time.

Truth be told, I originally planted the ivy because I didn't want to pay for stump removal. Now, even if someone offered to remove the stump for free, I wouldn't say yes. And every time I spot a little toad tucked beneath the leaves on a warm afternoon, I'm reminded that the garden seems to agree.

Wilting might be the least useful symptom in the garden. It's how a plant says something is wrong, and that's about as specific as it gets. A tomato that's merely hot and a tomato with fungus clogging its plumbing look identical at three in the afternoon, which is exactly why so many gardeners water the second one until it dies faster.

Then again, gardening in a heat wave means treating a certain amount of afternoon flop as ordinary. Leaves droop because the plant has closed its stomata and quit transpiring until conditions improve, so the sag is a defense, not a distress call. The question worth answering isn't whether a plant wilts. It's whether it comes back.

Start with the Sunset Test

(Image credit: NetPix / Getty Images)

Go back out at dusk, or first thing the next morning, and look at the same plant. Heat stress lets go once the sun is off it. Roots catch up with what the leaves lost, turgor returns, and something that looked finished in the afternoon is standing there come nighttime like nothing happened. That's the entire test, and it costs nothing. Give it a full hour past sundown before drawing any conclusion, since dry soil slows recovery even in a healthy plant.

A plant still slumped at sunrise, after twelve hours of cool air and no sun at all, has a problem that has nothing to do with weather. The in-between case matters too. A plant that bounces back a little less each morning is on a slow slide, and the pattern shows up over three or four days rather than in a single look. Take a photo each morning if the difference is too subtle to hold in your head.

Wilting in Wet Soil Is a Contradiction

(Image credit: jxfzsy / Getty Images)

Soggy ground and a drooping plant should not go together, and when they do, the roots are the story. Root rot organisms – mainly Phytophthora and Pythium species – thrive in saturated soil and destroy the fine feeder roots that do the actual drinking. What's left can't pull water even while sitting in it. The wilt looks like drought because, from the plant's side, it is drought. An XLUX long-probe soil moisture meter from Amazon settles the question in seconds at root depth, where a finger can't reach.

Confirming it means getting your hands dirty. Scrape back the soil at the base and pull a few roots. Healthy roots are firm and pale, and they snap. Rotted roots turn brown or gray, go soft, and the outer layer slides off between your fingers and leaves a bare thread behind. That smell of stagnant pond water is the other giveaway. Container plants sitting in saucers are the usual victims, though heavy clay after a wet stretch does the same job. Peppers and squash collapse within days once it takes hold, while shrubs can carry the damage quietly for a season.

One Branch, One Side, One Piece

(Image credit: Toni Jardon / Getty Images)

Vascular wilts operate differently, and they're the ones that earn the word sinister. Verticillium dahliae and Fusarium oxysporum live in the soil, enter through the roots, and grow upward inside the xylem – the plumbing itself. The plant fights back by plugging infected vessels with gums and tyloses, and in doing so it seals off the pipes it needs. Water stops moving. The leaves get the message before the rest of the plant does.

Asymmetry is the tell. Heat hits the whole plant at once, while a vascular wilt starts with a single branch and leaves everything around it looking fine for days. Sometimes the split is narrower – half a stem, or one wedge of a leaf going yellow while the rest of it stays green. Yellowing that climbs from the bottom and then stalls halfway counts too. Fusarium tends to move in hot weather and Verticillium in milder spells, though both settle into the soil for years once they arrive. The same bed keeps producing the same sad tomato.

Cut the Stem and Look

There's a diagnostic that beats guessing. Slice through a wilted stem a few inches above the soil line with a hand pruner like this from Home Depot, then look at the cut face. Cream-colored tissue all the way around points back at heat or a watering problem. Brown or tan streaking in the ring just under the bark is vascular disease, and no amount of water fixes that.

Wipe the blades down with 70% isopropyl alcohol (you can get it from Walmart) before touching another plant, since pruners carry these fungi from one stem to the next easily. Neither wilt has a cure once it's in a plant. Pull it, bag it, and keep it out of the compost, then put something unrelated in that spot for a few years – corn, beans, and grasses shrug both of them off. Resistant varieties exist for tomatoes, and the letters on the tag earn their keep here. A “V” stands for Verticillium and an “F” for Fusarium. Until then, the plant tells you which one it is by sundown – every time, for free.

Who doesn’t love the big, colorful blooms of hydrangeas? From rounded mopheads and delicate lacecaps to elegant panicles, their varied flower forms make a striking addition to the garden. Knowing how to dry hydrangea flowers allows you to enjoy their impressive blooms for even longer.

Many gardeners leave the flower heads to dry on the bushes for fall and winter interest, but you can also cut and preserve them to display indoors. Knowing when and how to harvest the blooms is a useful part of hydrangea care, as the timing can affect how well they retain their color and shape.

Learning how to dry hydrangea blooms is actually very easy. Some flowers take better to drying than others, and they can last a long time if you do it right. You can use all types of hydrangeas for drying, but the mopheads and panicles with changing colors turn into the most striking specimens when dry.

(Image credit: Natalia Zhukova / Getty Images)

There are several ways to dry flowers at home, including air-drying, drying them in water, and using silica gel. Each method is relatively simple and produces slightly different results. Follow the instructions below to discover the best way to preserve your hydrangea blooms.

When to Cut Hydrangeas for Drying

(Image credit: Getty Images)

There is a right time and a wrong time to cut hydrangeas for drying. These prolific bloomers look their most spectacular when they are brightly colored at their peak in the garden. But this is not the best time to dry them, as they contain too much moisture. Drying them at this stage will result in wilted, shriveled flowers.

The best time to harvest hydrangeas for drying is later in the season. Aim for about six weeks after the blooms open. The flowers should already feel a little dry and papery. If your flowers don’t seem totally dried out, just give them more time.

Choose a dry day, and harvest flowers later in the day when they are naturally drier.

What You Need

Fiskars 6" Pruning Scissors for Flower Stems

These precision micro-tip pruners are perfect for neatly cutting exactly the stems you want with no mistakes.

Modanu Hanging Drying Rack

This charming drying rack is perfect for hydrangeas and other flowers as well as home-grown herbs and garlic.

Krylon Ultra UV Floral Protectant Spray

Spritz dried flowers with this protectant spray to improve their longevity and minimize color fade.

How to Dry Hydrangeas in Water

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It might seem counterintuitive, but drying hydrangeas in water is the best way to preserve them. Unlike other flowers that degrade in water, hydrangeas hold their shape and color well.

Water-drying hydrangeas takes a little more time than air-drying, but many find that the results are better. Here's how to do it:

1. Timing is critical when drying hydrangeas in water. You must wait till the blooms have been open for several weeks and are beginning to get papery. Many hydrangeas will slowly change colors, from white to dusky pink, for example. It’s when the color change begins that it is ready to undergo the drying process.
2. Cut the blooms in mid to late morning after all the dew has dried from the plant. Pick the best-looking blooms because drying will exacerbate any imperfections. Allow 12 to 18 inches (30–45 cm) for the stems, and cut them at different heights, so the flowers are spaced out as they dry. Cut above a node at a 45-degree angle. Drop the stem in a bucket of water, if desired, while the other boughs are collected.
3. Once inside, strip the leaves from the hydrangea blooms as they don’t dry well. Fill each vase with enough water to cover about two to three inches of the stems. Insert the stems and arrange them so there is ample space between blossoms. They should not touch. Stagger the heights, if needed, to allow sufficient air space.
4. Place the vases where you can enjoy the blooms as they dry, but keep them out of direct sunlight.
5. Allow the water to evaporate and the hydrangeas to dry. It should take two or more weeks. If the water evaporates and the flowers do not feel stiff, add more water and continue to let them dry naturally. When the flowers feel papery and stiff, they are ready for display.

How to Air Dry Hydrangeas

(Image credit: Alamy)

Air-drying hydrangeas is the simplest and quickest method, although the finished blooms may be more fragile and lose more color than those dried in water.

Simply cut the stems to different heights, remove the leaves, and arrange the flowers loosely in a vase without adding water. Avoid crowding the blooms, as good air circulation helps them dry evenly and prevents moisture from becoming trapped between the petals. Place the vase in a cool, dry spot away from direct sunlight, which can bleach the flowers.

Alternatively, tie the stems together in small bunches and hang them upside down to air-dry on a rack, like this wooden adjustable drying rack from Amazon. This can help keep the stems straight, although the flower heads may lose a little more of their natural shape. Depending on the conditions, the hydrangeas should feel dry and papery within one to two weeks.

Using Silica Gel for Drying Hydrangeas​

Silica gel is a good option if you want hydrangea flowers to retain more of their original color and shape. It draws moisture from the petals and supports the flower head as it dries, retaining more color and structure than when air drying. Bear in mind, large hydrangea blooms can use a considerable amount of silica gel, so buy it in bulk, like this Unuast Store 5 lb tub from Amazon.

Here's how to do it:

1. Cut the stems short, remove the leaves, and place a layer of silica gel in the bottom of an airtight container.
2. Set the flower head on top, then carefully pour more silica gel around and over the petals until the bloom is completely covered.
3. Seal the container and leave it undisturbed for several days, checking the flowers according to the product instructions.
4. Once dry, lift the bloom out gently and brush away any remaining crystals with a soft paintbrush.

This method works especially well for individual flower heads intended for arrangements or crafts, although it requires more materials than air- or water-drying. The finished flowers are often very delicate, so handle them with care.

Should I Spray Dry Hydrangea Flowers?

You don’t have to spray hydrangeas after drying them, but doing so will help them last longer. Use a light mist of hairspray to fix the petals and flowers and prevent them from dropping.

Better still, a UV floral preservative, like Krylon UV Floral Protectant Spray, prevents color fading. Your dried blooms won’t last forever, but you can extend their lifespan by doing this.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Can I Dry Hydrangeas in the Microwave?

If you're in a rush, you can dry hydrangeas in the microwave, but it’s not the best method. To do it, place flower heads or individually removed flowers in a microwave-safe container. Heat the container on the lowest setting and check the flowers at 30-second or 60-second intervals.

Ways to Use Dried Hydrangeas

Knowing how to dry a hydrangea flower properly means you can create beautiful displays for fall and winter. A simple and conventional way to use dried hydrangeas is in arrangements in vases, with or without other flowers.

If you use care not to damage them, you can also use dried hydrangeas in other types of displays. Use them in tablescapes or on mantels. Lay them on the surface or around candles. Tie dried flowers to presents. Fill bowls with them to decorate a table.

You can even use hydrangeas in wreaths or garlands. Handle them carefully to avoid damage and to help them last longer.

There really is a special kind of misery that comes from eating ice cream on a warm summer day, only to have a wasp start attacking your hand. Or, you’re setting up the perfect little outdoor table full of cold drinks and your garden is actually looking stunning, only to spend the whole afternoon flinching every time something black and yellow buzzes past your ear.

Wasps have a real talent for ruining a lovely afternoon. Fortunately, trapping them has become significantly easier than most people think. There is no shortage of products that actually work without all the chemicals or bravery needed when you don’t want to get stung. If you prefer to go the DIY route first, we've got a great guide to homemade wasp traps. But if you'd rather just buy something that works right now, here are the best options available.

A note before you buy: Placement matters as much as the trap itself. All of these should be hung at least 20 feet away from where you're sitting, as the goal is to draw wasps toward the trap and away from you, not hang it over the potato salad. Hang them at eye level or slightly above, in areas that seem to draw a lot of wasps, and replace or refresh the bait about every two weeks.

Trap for Wasps, Hornets & Yellow jackets

RESCUE! Rescue! Why Trap for Wasps, Hornets, & Yellowjackets – Hanging Outdoor Trap - 3 Traps

The RESCUE! WHY Trap is the one most pest control professionals grab first, and for good reason. The name stands for Wasps, Hornets, and Yellowjackets, and it catches all three. It targets 19 different species in a single dual-chamber design. The top chamber uses two attractants dissolved in water while the bottom uses a liquid lure on a little cotton pad.

Wasps can enter but can't find their way back out, and die naturally. No poison, no chemicals, no mess, except emptying the chamber when it's full. A 2-week supply of attractant is included, with refills available on Amazon as well. This trap is perfect if you aren’t sure what species you’re dealing with and want to make sure you have all your bases covered.

TrapStik for Wasps, Mud Daubers & Carpenter Bees

RESCUE! Rescue! Visilure® TrapStik for Wasps, Mud Daubers, Carpenter Bees – 2 Pack

Same brand, completely different approach; no liquid, no bait, no smell. The TrapStik uses VisiLure technology, which is a patented combination of colors and patterns that wasps are visually drawn to. After they land to see what’s up, they're stuck on a sticky surface and can't escape.

There are built-in guards to reduce the chance of catching birds or other creatures you’re not trying to target. Hang it near where you have seen a lot of wasps, as unlike other types of traps that lure them from a distance, this one works best if you position it where the problem is.

Glass Wasp Trap

Mysora 2-Piece Glass Wasp Trap Outdoor Hanging Reusable Wasp Traps

If you prefer your wasp traps to look pretty, and in a garden we often do like that, this is the trap for you. It’s made from cobalt blue glass and looks like a decoration rather than a pest control device. It works on the classic principle: fill the bottom with a sugary liquid bait (sugar water, fruit juice, or flat cola all work well), hang it near areas of wasp activity, and the wasps enter and can't get out.

It's chemical-free, reusable, and looks super pretty. It works best for paper wasps and yellowjackets around an outdoor table. Keep it topped up with fresh bait and be sure to empty it often, as it fills up faster than you would think during peak wasp season.

Honeycomb Reusable Wasp Traps

Qualirey 3-Pack Wasp Traps

This is a practical, no-fuss option that covers a ton of ground. The honeycomb design looks fancier than a basic plastic bottle trap and looks quite good in a garden. It has a sealed bottom to prevent leaks, and several entry points to increase the catch rates of wasps who can enter from several directions.

You can fill it with sugar water or fruit juice, hang it wherever wasps tend to hang out, and replace the bait every week or two; simple. It comes in a pack of 3, which is useful for making a perimeter: one near your house, one in the middle of your garden, and one at the far end. This helps keep wasps away from the whole area rather than just one spot.

Paper Wasp Nest Decoys

DECYOOL 6-Pack Paper Wasp Nest Decoy Hanging Wasp Deterrent for Hornets Yellow Jackets

Okay, while it’s technically not a trap, it’s actually a bit more effective than any preventative methods. Wasps can be highly territorial; they won’t even build a nest within 20 feet of an existing one. These paper decoys mimic the look of a paper wasp nest convincingly enough to fool scouts into looking elsewhere. So, basically, you’re tricking the wasps. Hah!

You can hang them from pergolas, tree branches, or fence posts in early spring before wasps start searching for nesting sites, and you will significantly reduce the chances of ending up with a nest anywhere near your outdoor seating area in the first place. A 6-pack gives you enough coverage for a whole property. They're made from paper so you’ll need to keep them dry or replace them every season. However, at this price, that’s barely a concern. You can also combine it with a bait trap to give your garden even better coverage.

Solar Wasp Traps

Jahy2Tech Wasp Traps Outdoor Hanging With Led Light

If you’re always forgetting to turn things on, this solar-powered option is perfect for you. These charge during the day with a small solar panel and use an LED light at night to attract wasps and other flying insects. This means the trap is effective at night, which is perfect for those summer parties that go late into the night.

The 3-funnel design keeps wasps inside, and the ABS construction is weatherproof. Hang them at least 4 feet high for best results. The pack of 4 means you can cover a full garden or spread them between patios and a seating area simultaneously. This is a solid choice if you have a bigger garden where one trap isn’t going to cut it.