Organic Gardening News

Summer heatwaves happen to most gardens. It’s more a matter of when and for how long rather than if it will occur. The aftermath of a bad heatwave can be devastating – drooping plants, crispy brown foliage, and even dead plants. But you can minimize the damage with some simple rescue care during and after a heatwave.

To make your rescue efforts efficient and effective, it helps to know the plants that like heat and the ones that do not. It’s the latter that will need your immediate attention, while the former will likely bounce back on their own. If you live in an area that experiences a lot of heatwaves – though, they’re getting more common even in areas with historically cooler summers – then you need to know which plants can revive themselves quickly and which ones need special attention.

I’ll reveal the toughest heatwave-proof plants to grow in your garden and the ones that need some extra care after multiple days of high temperatures.

Heatwave-Proof Plants

If you tend to get frequent heatwaves, it’s a good idea to include more of these plants that tolerate high temperatures and recover readily without your help.

1. Coneflower

(Image credit: Fasil Tiru / 500px / Getty Images)

Native perennial echinacea, also known as coneflower, is very durable in the heat. Good in zones 3 through 9, coneflowers love full sun and get through hot spells with their long tap roots that reach deep for moisture. 'Cheyenne Spirit' coneflower from Wayside Gardens is a fiery multicolored cultivar that looks stunning in the summer garden.

While your coneflowers might wilt a little in the most extreme heat, they’ll likely recover by evening. Floppiness is a way for the plant to conserve energy. You can help it recover better and faster with occasional deep watering.

2. Russian Sage

(Image credit: Sandra Alkado / Getty Images)

Russian sage, which can grow in hardiness zones 4 through 9, is exceptionally heat-tolerant. Popular for its silvery-green foliage and pretty purple flowers, this perennial actually prefers the heat and soil that tends toward dryness. Overwatering or growing in soil that doesn’t drain well are among the easiest mistakes to make with Russian sage.

During a heatwave, it benefits from its leaf color, reflecting more of the harsh sunlight than plants with darker green foliage. As with other heat-tolerant plants, Russian sage has long roots, especially if you helped it get established with deep watering. You can water it during a heatwave, but this plant will recover regardless.

You can get a classic Russain sage plant online from Fast Growing Trees.

3. Stonecrop

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Stonecrop is a type of sedum, which is a group of succulent plants that do very well during heatwaves and can be grown in zones 3 through 9. They are prized for their fleshy leaves and flat clusters of small flowers.

They’re also popular for how easy they are to grow and how forgiving they can be of summer heatwaves. 'Autumn Joy' stonecrop, which you can get from Nature Hills Nursery, is one of the most popular and widely-available cultivars.

As a succulent, stonecrop stores water in its leaves. It also only opens the pores on its leaves at night, which means it doesn’t lose water during the day. These characteristics help stonecrop thrive right through the hottest days of summer. Not only does it not need your intervention, but overwatering it can cause more harm than good.

4. Lantana

(Image credit: Barbara Ash / Alamy)

Lantana is a hot-weather plant that is only hardy in zones 8 through 11. In colder climates, you can grow it as an annual flower. Lantana is popular for its bright, colorful flowers and its ability to survive and thrive throughout hot summers.

Lantana might wilt a little in the worst heatwave, but it will bounce back quickly. You can deadhead flowers after the heat has passed to encourage fresh blooms.

Watering might only be necessary if you grow lantana in containers. If you're looking for bright orange blooms to add to your container garden, 'Lucky Flame' lantana plants from Home Depot are just the thing.

Plants That Need Help in a Heatwave

Heat-tolerant plants make summer garden care a little easier, but you can still grow more sensitive plants. They just need some extra care to survive and come back to life after a heatwave.

1. Bigleaf Hydrangea

(Image credit: Ken Welsh / Alamy)

A lot of gardeners grow bigleaf hydrangea, which is hardy in zones 5 through 9, to enjoy its copious and colorful pink and blue flowers. Unfortunately, these small shrubs don’t thrive in extreme heat. The large, thin leaves lose water rapidly in hot and dry conditions, so they tend to wilt easily.

The flower buds can also be affected by heat, resulting in a hydrangea bush with no blooms. A lot of stress from heat can even reduce flowering the following year.

So what can you do? Water your hydrangea deeply each morning during a heatwave. Provide temporary shade with a shade cloth, like this one from Amazon, if your plants are in the sun in the afternoon. Keep mulch thick around the plants to retain soil moisture.

2. Japanese Maple

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Most types of Japanese maples, which are hardy in zones 5 through 9, do not handle hot, dry conditions very well. Prized for their feathery, delicate leaves, heatwaves can quickly cause leaf scorch. Newly planted trees are particularly vulnerable.

If you grow a Japanese maple, water it deeply every day or every couple of days during a heatwave. If possible, plant your tree in a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Provide some late-day shade with a patio umbrella or shade cloth if necessary during very hot, sunny days.

3. Bleeding Heart

(Image credit: Elmar Langle / Shutterstock)

Bleeding heart is a unique perennial with heart-shaped flowers that hang elegantly from arching branches. It grows best in zones 3 through 9 with shade and rich, moist soil. These needs mean that it will not do well during a summer heatwave or drought. Too much heat can even trigger dormancy.

The best way to save your bleeding heart from the summer heat is to be proactive. Water it ahead of and during a heatwave. Provide extra shade if it currently gets too much afternoon sun. Once the heatwave is over, remove any leaves that didn’t survive with a sharp, clean pair of pruners like these from Fiskars.

4. Impatiens

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Although they are native to warm climates and only hardy in zones 10 through 11, this popular summer annual doesn’t actually do well in extreme heat. Impatiens are prized for their summer-long flowers that bloom even in deep shade.

Too much sun, heat, and dry weather can quickly kill your impatiens without intervention. Keeping them well watered is the best thing you can do for impatiens in summer. Water impatiens in the ground at least once a day and those in containers twice a day.

You can also move potted impatiens into full shade during hot and dry spells. Putting containers on a plant caddy from Amazon makes them easy to move into the shade and back into the sun once the weather cools.

Not all wilting plants are in danger in a summer heatwave. Some will bounce right back, stronger than ever. Others need emergency care. Knowing which plants are more resilient will help you focus your time and attention where they are needed most.

The color purple is an arresting sight in beds and borders. And when you’re looking for ways to add some dazzle to shady spots, it can feel like a home run. Standing before a bench of velvety plum heuchera, deep lavender salvia, or rich amethyst coral bells, it seems natural that their jewel tones will add a lush punch and drama to dim corners.

But once you get those dark beauties planted, the illusion can vanish fast. Rather than popping against the gloom, those rich, deep purples seem to pull a disappearing act. Gardening in the shade can be tricky, of course, but why would these vibrant tones shrink into muddy shadows? Well, purple, it turns out, is not the best shade for shade.

The good news? A dark, shady corner can be saved. You just need to understand a few simple rules about low-light color theory to transform your yard’s dimmest nooks into glowing, high-contrast sanctuaries. Here’s what you need to know…

Why Purple Disappears in Shade

Why do purple plantings struggle in shade? Put simply, our eyes see color by light reflected off an object. Darker colors, including shades of purple, absorb a lot of light and reflect little. To be really visible to the human eye, they need a lot of light to reflect. In your shady backyard corner, there simply isn’t enough light to create the visual sense of purples, blues, or burgundies. So they look flat and don’t stand out.

Compared to sunny spaces, low light in the garden is like turning down a dimmer switch. As the available light drops, so does our eye's ability to distinguish deep, cool wavelengths. Dark cobalt lobelias, violet salvias, and carpet-forming, dark ajuga (bugleweed) rely on high-intensity sunlight to bounce off their petals and ignite their rich tones. Placed in a shadowy nook, we just register a flat, visual void.

(Image credit: Kenneth Raymann / 500px / Getty Images)

Another reason to avoid putting purple plants in shade is that the lack of light can actually cause the plants to turn green! Purple and burgundy plants get their color from a pigment called anthocyanin, which also acts like a sunscreen against very bright light. If you grow these plants in shade, they’ll make less anthocyanin because they don’t need it. The result is a duller color or even a greener color.

To make matters worse, many of our favorite purple-flowering perennials are culturally hardwired for baking sun and lean, free-draining soil. Planted in cool, damp shade, sun-worshippers like lavender or salvia suffer a double blow. Not only do their purple blooms seem invisible, but their roots quickly succumb to fungal diseases and crown rot on account of the stagnant, moist soil that can often accompany the shade.

Understanding Purple Rules

(Image credit: Debbie Richards / Getty Images)

Not all purples are created equal. The trick lies in recognizing the difference between cold indigos and hotter tones, as well as the quality of light falling on your garden bed. In deep, evergreen shade, almost any dark shade vanishes. But in soft, dappled woodland light, warm purples packed with pink and red undertones (like winter-blooming cyclamen) can catch flickering sunbeams and glow. Cold, deep blue-purples like dark aconitum (monkshood), on the other hand, lack those luminous undertones and melt into the shadows.

Bloom structure and petal geometry also play a massive role in whether a purple plant succeeds or disappears. Tiny, delicate purple flowers, such as slender creeping campanula (bellflower), disperse scarce light across fine petals and dissolve into a haze from just a few paces away. Larger, broader petals act like light scoops. Even better are purple blooms with built-in reflective markings. Take cranesbills like Geranium maculatum or beloved hardy geranium Rozanne. Their electric violet-blue petals have a pale eye that acts as a tiny reflector dish for ambient light.

If you can’t imagine your shade garden without moody plum foliage, you don't have to banish it entirely. You just need to change how you frame it. Dark foliage favorites like Heuchera 'Plum Pudding' or bugbane might fail when left to fight the shadows on their own. However, when treated as high-contrast accents with paler, light-reflecting partners, their deep tones suddenly become an asset rather than a visual liability. So which colors are going to work well in your shady corners?

What Colors Work Better in Shade

(Image credit: Somnuk Krobkum / Getty Images)

If deep purples act like a visual sponge in the shade, chartreuse and lime green act like highlighters. Chlorophyll-rich, yellow-green foliage is the ultimate shade illuminator, catching the barest hint of ambient light and glowing as if lit from within. Imagine a cascade of golden Japanese forest grass nestled under a dark tree canopy. Even evergreen shrubs like Euonymus Emerald 'n' Gold can transform a gloomy bed into a warm, inviting space. These acid-green tones bring an electric energy to shaded areas, lasting from spring to first frost.

You don't have to rely purely on solid colors, either. Silver sheen and white variegation act as tiny, built-in mirrors for your garden beds. Plants with metallic or frosty overlays bounce light back to your eye. The icy, crackled leaves of Brunnera Jack Frost or the silvery trailing stems of deadnettle can brighten a dark path just as effectively as landscape lighting. Similarly, the speckled, silver-splashed foliage of pulmonaria (lungwort) helps to create visual dynamics and texture.

With flowering plants in the shade, the rule is simple: go pale and luminous. Icy whites, soft creams, pale golds, and bright baby pinks stand out brilliantly against the dark backdrop of soil and shadowy tree trunks. Instead of planting a dark purple flower that will immediately vanish, opt for the yellow blooms of barrenwort or the soft, nodding pink bells of native columbines. These lighter pigments don't just survive in the shade, they absolutely shine.

5 Plant Superstars for Color

Now that you know how light behaves in dim spaces, it’s time to fill those shadowy garden spots with plants that naturally do the heavy lifting. The following vibrant shade-loving perennials don't just tolerate low light but work actively with it. Combining built-in luminosity, striking foliage, and effortless charm, these reliable shade-lovers will keep your woodland beds glowing all season long.

1. Hosta

(Image credit: Ekaterina Goncharova / Getty Images)

This classic shade plant offers broad, sculptural leaves that act like solar panels to catch available light. Chartreuse and variegated cultivars are game-changers. Look for chartreuse cultivars, like Rainforest Sunrise, and Lime Piecrust. Variegated varieties include Guacamole or Patriot, with striking, creamy white margins to illuminate gloomy corners. You can buy Patriot Hostas from Nature Hills.

Don't rule out blue hostas entirely. Pale, icy-blue varieties like Halcyon or June thrive in partial shade thanks to the chalky, waxy coating. This powdery finish contrasts beautifully with fine-textured partners like trailing deadnettle or feathery maidenhair ferns. Hostas love rich, moisture-retentive soil packed with organic matter. Apply a thick layer of organic mulch around the base to retain moisture. While blue cultivars need shade to protect their waxy coating, chartreuse hosta varieties display their brightest golden pigments when given a gentle tilt of morning light.

2. Astilbe

(Image credit: Julija Smirnova / Getty Images)

Where broad-leaved shade plants bring weight, astilbe (Astilbe spp.) introduces light, feathery elegance. Their feathery, cloud-like plumes are composed of hundreds of tiny individual flowers that catch and scatter light across shadowy borders. Pale cultivars like creamy Bridal Veil or soft pink Peach Blossom work as visual softeners. Even crimson options like Fanal carry enough warm, luminous pink undertones to glow brightly under a dappled tree canopy. For a pretty bushy option, Vision in White Astilbe from Fast Growing Trees gives extra-special luminescence.

Just remember to maintain constant soil moisture to get the best from these feathery beauties. They thrive near rain gardens, ponds, or under heavily mulched beds. Layer with some fine bark or compost, and avoid windy, exposed sites that strip humidity from their delicate fronds. A gentle topdressing of organic fertilizer in early spring will reward you with dense, erect plumes that stand tall well into midsummer.

3. Caladium

(Image credit: Orietta Gaspari / Getty Images)

For unabashed drama in low light, caladiums are certainly going to catch the eye, and keep it. These tropical beauties produce thin, heart-shaped leaves that act like stained-glass windows when caught in dappled light. Cultivars like Caladium hortulanum Candidum feature paper-thin, stark white leaves laced with intricate dark green veins, while varieties like White Queen and Rosebud flush with light-reflecting pinks. Buy Ella’s Homes’ Pink Caladiums from Amazon as live plants.

Unlike cold-hardy perennials, these tubers are heat-lovers that demand warm spring soil to wake up properly. Wait until soil temperatures reliably top 65°F (18°C) to plant them. Planting too early in cold, soggy spring dirt will lead to tuber rot. Keep the soil rich, well-draining, and moist in warm summer months. In cooler northern climate zones, you can grow them as annuals or lift the tubers after the first light frost to store for next year.

4. Japanese Painted Fern

(Image credit: Liveslow / Getty Images)

While traditional green ferns add lovely texture in the shade, the Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum) brings metallic brilliance right down to ground level. Its feathery fronds glow in shades of frosted pewter, shimmering silver, and deep burgundy along the central stems. This unique silver sheen gives a natural light-reflecting quality that is low-growing and gently spreading. Buy Japanese Painted Ferns from Walmart as live plants for instant shimmering intensity.

To maximize the metallic sheen of this fern variety, place it in sheltered dappled shade where faint sunbeams can hit the leaves without scorching them. This shade-lover thrives best in loose, humus-rich soil that is kept evenly moist but drains freely around the crown. Avoid planting in high-traffic zones or windy corridors, where the fragile fronds can be snapped or bruised. Add a light fall mulch of shredded leaf mold around the base to protect its shallow roots over winter.

5. Bleeding Heart

(Image credit: Terje Håheim / Getty Images)

Few shade perennials grab the attention quite exquisite bleeding hearts (Lamprocapnos spectabilis). In spring, their delicate, arching stems hold rows of trembling heart-shaped blooms. In shady conditions, the classic rose-pink and white petals act like tiny glowing lanterns, bringing fluid movement to the mid-tier of a bed in partial shade. Where the shade is particularly deep, try pure white Alba. You can buy Old Fashioned Bleeding Hearts from Nature Hills as live plants.

Plant in rich, humus-dense soil that stays moist through the growing season. As summer heat sets in, it is natural for bleeding heart foliage to turn yellow and go dormant. Plant it alongside late-emerging hostas or broad-leaved ferns which can fill the empty space it leaves. Just give the crown a layer of leaf mold in the fall.

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Is there such a thing as a good morning routine when it comes to gardening? Some might assume not, but I truly believe the opposite... especially when it comes to my roses.

Yes, if there's one plant I'll happily make time for before I've even finished my first cup of coffee (or tea, if I'm being honest – I can't deny my British roots), it's my roses. Which is just as well, because although my husband is a professional gardener, he absolutely hates hybrid roses. He's got plenty of reasons for it – and he's made them very clear over the years – which means the two hybrid roses growing in our garden were planted before the rule was instituted and are now entirely my responsibility.

I don't mind, though. In fact, I think they've become some of my favorite plants because I've had to figure them out myself. While my husband happily gets on with the rest of the garden, I'm the one checking my roses over like a doting plant mamma before the sun is only just getting itself into gear.

How Your Morning Routine Impacts Your Roses

Yes, there is no denying that checking my roses for thirsty soil, fresh blooms, and the first signs of pests has become as much a part of my morning routine as applying my moisturizer... but that doesn't mean spending half an hour outside every morning armed with secateurs and fertilizer and mulch. In fact, my rose routine usually takes no more than a couple of minutes.

I wander out with my cuppa in hand, have a look at the leaves, check the soil if we've had a dry spell, admire any new blooms (or sob internally if my tiny tearaway daughters have plucked a handful of petals for their mud kitchen again), and make a mental note if anything needs doing later.

(Image credit: Maryviolet / Getty Images)

It might sound like a tiny habit, but it's one I've come to rely on, because roses have a remarkable way of telling you exactly what they need – so long as you catch the signs early enough. A little wilting, the first few spotted leaves, or a cluster of aphids on fresh growth? All are so much easier to deal with before they become bigger problems. That's why I always check mine before the rest of my day properly begins.

The biggest lesson I've learned from shifting my morning routine to match my roses is that timing matters just as much as what you do. While you don't need to water roses every morning, checking them early in the day? Well, that gives you the best chance to spot problems and, if they do need a drink, to do it at the best time for watering plants.

Shop Rose Growing Essentials:

Miracle-Gro Miracle-Gro Rose Plant Food, 1.5-Pounds (rose Fertilizer)

Roses thrive in rich soil, so be sure to supplement with a good fertilizer.

FELCO Felco Secateurs, No.2

Roses in the garden? Make sure you have an excellent pair of pruners to hand.

SLARMOR Leather Gardening Gloves

Every rose has its thorn! Keep them at bay with a good pair of gardening gloves.

Morning is generally the best time to water roses because it gives moisture time to soak into the soil before the heat of the day arrives. If you water at the base of the plant early on, the roots can take up that moisture before temperatures climb and evaporation speeds up, and skipping an evening watering session means your leaves won't stay damp overnight (which can encourage fungal diseases such as black spot and powdery mildew).

My morning check is also when I spot the little things that can quickly snowball; aphids love tender new rose growth, and they're much easier to remove before they've colonized an entire stem. And I find it oddly therapeutic looking for yellowing leaves, damaged buds, or flowers that are ready for deadheading (is it just me who thinks of it as a mindfulness routine?).

Mind you, roses (whether we're talking about your birth month rose or just your average blooming beauty) aren't the only plants that can benefit from a shift in your morning routine...

Other Plants That Benefit From An Early Morning Check

(Image credit: Peter Turner Photography / Shutterstock)

1. Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are usually quick to tell you when they're thirsty, and a deep morning watering is far more effective than trying to revive wilted plants in the afternoon heat, making them morning routine musts.

2. Dahlias

Dahlias also appreciate a quick early inspection. Morning is the perfect time to check for slugs and snails, spot leaves that need removing, and make sure the soil hasn't dried out during a hot spell.

3. Sweet Peas

If you grow sweet peas, there's another reason to head outside before your bowl of oatmeal (or porridge, if you're me!). Morning is the ideal time to pick flowers while they're at their freshest, and regular harvesting encourages the plants to keep producing even more blooms.

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

For me, spending a few quiet minutes with my roses before the day has even begun in earnest has become one of the easiest ways to keep them healthy, flowering, and looking their best all summer.

It also sets me up for a great day, too! Who doesn't love bouncing into their first meeting knowing that they've already ticked something off their to-do list, right?

Birds have a rough time of it in a heatwave. They can't sweat, they're burning energy just panting to cool down, local insect activity plummets, and the puddles they'd normally drink from could be baked dry by midday. As temperatures soar past 90°F (32.2°C), a bird is expending more water than it can find, in search of diminishing resources, which is where a bag of frozen peas is one of the handiest things lurking in your kitchen.

Here's what makes them so great for attracting birds through summer heatwaves. A frozen pea is roughly 80 percent water, locked in something solid. Set a few out, and they don't soak away into dry ground the way a splash from the hose does. Instead, they thaw slowly and give moisture back over a longer time period. On top of that, peas are soft and sweet, easy for a heat-stressed bird to swallow.

Introducing a small handful of thawed green sweet peas into your backyard is nothing short of a lifeline. It delivers instant moisture in a tidy and reliable form, along with gentle, easily digestible plant sugars. And it does this right when extreme heat can cause sluggishness and stress in your feathered pals. So crack open that underused bag of peas, and give your birdies a unique pick-me-up.

Why Does it Have to Be Peas?

The water content of a pea (Pisum sativum) is what sets it apart as our special summertime treat for birds. A dry seed or a stale crust hands a bird calories, but costs it water to digest. And water is the one thing it can't spare when it's already dehydrated. A thawing pea carries vital hydration and some gentle nutrition in the same soft mouthful, no debt attached. Blackbirds and robins take to them readily. So do starlings, tits, and sparrows, the ground-feeders having the easiest time of it.

You might be wondering if sweetcorn, diced carrots, or frozen lima beans can do the same job. Sweetcorn has a fibrous, heavy cellulose husk that demands significant digestive water to process. Under intense afternoon sun, corn sugars ferment at high speed, creating sour, gut-distressing compounds. Carrots and lima beans are far too rigid, posing choking hazards for small throats. Sweet peas, by contrast, possess paper-thin, easily ruptured skins, enclosing a soft interior. This bird-friendly bundle is packed with electrolytes, vitamin C, and gentle plant protein.

As a special bonus, the price is so low as to make this a relative steal for bird-lovers. A bag of Great Value Frozen Sweet Peas from Walmart is very inexpensive and covers plenty of afternoons. You can thaw them first, or just scatter them still frozen. Either way, they'll be at air temperature before long. Skip the salt, butter, and seasoning, though. Plain is the only version of a pea that belongs outside, either scattered on the ground or on a deck.

(Image credit: Antonio Ciufo / Getty Images)

For ground based feeding, you can get mesh trays like the Kingsyard Heavy Duty Ground Feeder Tray from Amazon to keep scattered peas elevated off hot soil, while preventing dampness and rot. Or you can put peas in the hanging tray version – the Kingsyard Platform Bird Feeder Hanging Feeder Tray, also from Amazon. You can leave out peas on a balcony just as you would in a full garden. These peas provide days of hydrating, high-moisture summer treats for foraging birds.

While ground-foraging thrushes (like the American robin) and bold thrashers jump at whole peas, smaller species like house finches, Carolina chickadees, and tufted titmice prefer their peas slightly crushed. Taking 10 seconds to lightly smash a small batch with the back of a fork breaks the skin, releasing the sweet juice and making it easy for tiny beaks to pinch off soft morsels.

(Image credit: Stephen Waycott / Getty Images)What to Do with Your Peas

Placement has a big impact on how well this pea treat works. A handful tossed onto an open lawn in full sun will turn to warm mush in no time. Furthermore, songbirds like gray catbirds, song sparrows, and bluebirds are hyper-aware of aerial predators. Setting out food in direct sunlight leaves them exposed. The shade is where they belong. Under a shrub, beneath a garden bench, along the shaded edge of a fence — anywhere out of direct sun keeps them cool and appealing for longer, and gives smaller birds somewhere to feel safe while they feed.

Timing helps, too. Putting them out in the early morning and again toward evening catches birds when they're most active and keeps the food from sitting through the hottest middle hours, inevitably going bad. As well as using a tray or flat feeder (or just some lawn), you can use very simple shelving units to house your peas. The Vattenkar Outdoor Plant Stand & Dish from Ikea is a clean, weather-resistant tray that sits perfectly in shaded borders for discrete ground feeding.

(Image credit: Enn Li Photography / Getty Images)

Floating them in water is even better. Drop a small handful of peas into a shallow ground bird bath, like the pretty Bakayoyo Ceramic Ground Based Bird Bath from Amazon. Using a 1.5-inch (4 cm) deep basin gives small songbirds a confident footing while positioning the peas at beak level. The bobbing catches the eye from above, which is how birds find water. Keep the water shallow, approximately an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) at most, and again, make sure the bath receives some shade.

The bright green color of peas against light-colored water is effective in drawing high-flying species like American goldfinches and ruby-throated hummingbirds. Floating peas bob, roll, and rotate as the water shifts, imitating live aquatic larvae. Keep water depths restricted to 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm). Anything deeper creates panic for short-legged species like chipping sparrows. Also, stack a few rough river rocks in a slightly deeper bath, so visiting birds have a slip-free launchpad.

(Image credit: Tammi Mild / Getty Images)Safety and Comfort with Pea Feeds

Thawed peas sitting in summer heat go slimy and start to ferment, so clear out whatever hasn't been eaten by the same evening. Small batches of peas beat one big pile for exactly this reason. A pea nobody ate in the afternoon is a problem by the next morning, drawing flies and rats to a spot that was meant to help (to say nothing of nocturnal visitors like opossums and raccoons). Rinse the dish weekly as well, since a feeding station used daily builds up mess that spreads disease between birds.

And bear in mind that frozen peas are best used as supplementary treats – not the only food you leave out. Growing songbirds still require dense amino acids and natural oils. Complementing your pea station with mealworms gives bluebirds and wrens critical animal protein. For added protein power, grab a bag of Kaytee Pet Products Dried Mealworms from Amazon for a way to boost the diets of your visiting bluebirds, robins, and wrens once they have hydrated. As with your peas, you can try pre-moistening a few mealworms in water so they are softer for bird gullets.

(Image credit: Beata Whitehead / Getty Images)

Native fruiting shrubs like serviceberry (Amelanchier) or native coneflowers (Echinacea) yield rich seed heads for cardinals and finches. Always try to wash your feeding dishes twice a week. Use a 9:1 water-to-white-vinegar solution to keep your yard's sanctuary disease-free all summer long. Heinz All-Natural Distilled White Vinegar from Walmart is great value, non toxic, and tough on mineral crust.Just bear in mind that most birds will investigate new food cautiously at first, so it can take a day or two before they start taking them regularly.

Other Bird Bath Care Essentials

(Image credit: Hubert (Buddy) Woods / 500px / Getty Images)

Above and beyond some well-timed and well-placed peas, creating the ultimate summer bird magnet comes down to one element: moving water. In nature, still puddles signal stagnation and parasites, whereas splashing water signals fresh, oxygenated hydration. Warblers, tanagers, and vireos (species that rarely visit seed feeders) will travel across neighborhoods when they hear a lively, splashing bath.

Adding a solar-powered fountain or a water wiggler breaks the surface tension instantly. Create continuous water ripples across the surface of the bird bath water, using the Solar Water Wiggler from Walmart. The highly rated Mademax Solar Bird Bath Fountain Upgrade from Amazon, can also be dropped into an existing bath for gentle sprays to keep water fresh, and charm warblers, thrushes, and songbirds. As a bonus, continuous surface ripples prevent female mosquitoes from laying eggs. Misting systems can also provide extra hydration points in heat. Mounting a gentle leaf-mister is compelling to delicate species like hummingbirds and goldfinches.

To combat green algae blooms caused by intense summer sun, drop a pure copper disc or heavy copper penny into non-metallic ceramic or resin basins. The natural leaching of trace copper ions helps to keep the water clear for days between scrubs. Dropping a copper disc into the basin also helps to keep water fresh for longer. One team favorite is the Melbree Pure Copper Bird Bath Disc from Amazon.

Shop Summer Extras

(Image credit: Chrys35 / Getty Images)

Those frozen peas are a brilliant emergency measure, but don’t use them in place of the basics. They are a very important emergency measure, but they will work better if you balance your bird care ritual with key feeding and bathing essentials. Make sure you have your bird bath needs covered in order to help with both the peas and conventional hydration and cleaning. These accessories will keep your feathered neighbors safe, hydrated, and happy.

Sweet Shallow Basin

Bakayoyo Bakayoyo Ceramic Bird Bath for Ground or Deck

Designed low to the ground to mimic natural puddle drinking spots, this shallow ceramic basin is absolute perfection for ground-foraging birds like Robins, Sparrows, and Towhees. Its smooth glazed surface is effortless to wipe down, and the gentle depth makes it ideal for floating a handful of sweet peas on scorching afternoons.

Sparkle Patrol

Mellbree Mellbree Bird Bath Copper Cleaning Disc

One of our favorite team picks, this simple disc is a brilliant, chemical-free way to maintain crystal-clear water. Placed in non-metallic ceramic or plastic bird baths, this solid copper disc releases micro-ions that inhibit green algae growth, cutting your scrubbing routine in half and keeping the water cleaner for longer.

Clean Sweep

Modanu Modanu Ergonomic Brush for Bird Feeders and Baths

Keeping your summer bird bath clean is a breeze with this ergonomic utility brush. The stiff, durable bristles easily strip away stubborn green algae and mineral deposits without scratching delicate ceramic, stone or resin basins. Pair it with a simple splash of white vinegar for a safe, non-toxic deep clean.

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There are a lot of good reasons to grow plants in raised beds. The most important is that they give you more control over soil conditions. You can create the perfect blend and ensure good drainage. Raised beds are also easier to manage, especially if you have any mobility issues.

On the other hand, raised bed gardening has one major issue: water. Like containers, the soil in a raised bed will dry out faster than soil in the ground. This means you need to spend more time watering, unless you use one of these nifty strategies or easy-to-find tools and materials to create beds that are mostly or entirely self-watering.

Here are the four easiest and most effective ways to turn your raised bed into a self-watering garden that can withstand summer heat and drought or that you can leave for vacation and not worry about wilting.

1. Build a Wicking Reservoir

(Image credit: beekeepx / Getty Images)

A water wicking reservoir is an underground irrigation system. The reservoir stores water at the bottom of the bed. A wicking material allows the water to move upward into the dry soil as needed.

With this type of wicking raised bed system, you only need to fill the reservoir every few days or weekly, depending on the weather. It prevents overwatering and encourages strong, deep root growth.

You can find self-watering raised beds on Amazon that already have a water reservoir built in, buy a self-watering insert from Gardener's Supply Company, or make your own water wicking system from simple materials.

Line the bed with plastic sheeting or a pond liner to make it watertight. Create a reservoir on top of the liner using large, clean rocks or perforated drainpipes. Cover this with landscape fabric to act as your wicking material.

Finally, you just need a vertical PVC pipe on the side of the bed that reaches down to the reservoir. You’ll use this to refill the reservoir as needed. The wicking material allows water to be pulled upward into the soil, but only when the soil is dry so overwatering isn’t an issue.

2. Use Watering Spikes & Olla Pots

(Image credit: Getty Images)

There is an even simpler solution to creating self-watering beds that is best for small raised beds. Watering spikes, olla pots, and similar products are an easy way to let your beds water themselves. They work in a similar way to a wicking reservoir, but are easier to install.

These devices are made from unglazed terracotta. You fill them with water and bury them in the raised bed soil. The clay of the terracotta is porous, so moisture slowly seeps out into the dry soil around it. This is a low-tech, easy option for watering beds. The downside, however, is that each pot or watering spike only covers a small area of soil.

One olla pot, like this one from Amazon, will cover a growing area of 4 to 6 square feet (1.2-1.8 m), so it’s a great solution for small raised beds. Watering spikes, which you can get from IKEA, are best for individual plants. So if you have a few thirsty plants, like tomatoes, a handful of spikes can keep them happy and reduce the amount of time you need to spend watering.

3. Set Up a Drip Irrigation Kit

(Image credit: Ashley-Belle Burns / Getty Images)

Adding a drip irrigation setup to your raised bed turns your garden into a self-sufficient system in just one afternoon. These kits come in a range of sizes and those designed for smaller areas, like raised beds, can be as low as $30, like this simple drip irrigation kit from Home Depot that Content Editor Laura has used in her garden for years.

The kits include a hose or pipe system with multiple holes. You’ll install this in a bed and connect it to a hose. A hose-faucet timer, like this one that Laura also recommends, allows you to set the system to water at regular intervals.

Once installed, this is a hands-off watering system, so convenience is one of the biggest benefits. With some kits, you can even connect to an app and control watering from your phone.

Drip irrigation kits are also highly efficient, so if water usage is limited in your area, they are a great option. You’ll use up to 70% less water than using a regular hose and nozzle to water.

4. Create a Gravity-Fed Drip System

(Image credit: schulzie / Getty Images)

Instead of the pressure from a faucet and hose, you can use gravity to water your beds through a drip hose. You need an elevated source, like a rain barrel, and some tubing. Water moves down under the force of gravity and into the raised bed.

Like a drip irrigation system connected to a faucet, you get the benefit of water conservation, but you don’t need the pressure of the faucet. This is a good DIY drip irrigation option for a bed that isn’t close to the faucet.

Start with an elevated rain barrel, like this one with a built-in stand from Home Depot. If you have taller raised beds, you will need to place your rain barrel even higher. You can use cinder blocks, bricks, or old pallets to build a simple platform to lift your barrel above the height of your raised beds.

Next, add a drip irrigation system to get the water to your beds. You can make your own drip irrigation system or use a premade kit. Just make sure the kit you buy will work in a gravity-fed situation. Some drip irrigation kits need water pressure from a faucet or hose to function. But this drip irrigation kit from Amazon works with low or no water pressure.

No single solution for creating a self-watering bed is perfect, but one of these ideas might be better than others for your garden. You can also combine strategies to make watering easier. For instance, use a wicking reservoir with mulch to keep moisture in the soil longer. Or use a drip irrigation system with watering spikes for your especially thirsty plants.

Whether you install a simple drip irrigation kit, build a wicking reservoir, or just add mulch and a timer, these upgrades can dramatically reduce maintenance while keeping plants healthier and more productive. With the right setup, you can spend less time watering and more time enjoying your harvest.

I don't think it's any secret that I have a bit of an obsession with hydrangeas. If there's a new variety to admire or an old favorite coming back into bloom, I'm probably already planning where I'd squeeze another one into the garden.

I'm just as fond, though, of flowering vines, not least of all because they are one of the easiest ways to make a garden feel like it knows what its doing. A bare wall, old fence, or even a mature tree? A sea of flowers with the right climber. I've even found myself falling down rabbit holes researching birth month vines and unusual flowering climbers simply because I love discovering plants that do something a little different.

The only problem? Many flowering vines have one spectacular moment and then quietly fade into the background. And, by the time fall arrives, they often have very little left to offer. Boo, hiss.

The Native Hydrangea You Need to Try

With all this in mind, then, imaging how excited I was to stumble across woodvamp (Hydrangea barbara, formerly better known as Decumaria barbara). It's a plant that feels like a hidden secret, as it combines everything I already love about hydrangeas with the easy elegance of a climbing vine, then finishes the season with attractive fall foliage.

Native to the southeastern United States, where it naturally scrambles through moist woodlands and climbs tree trunks using tiny aerial rootlets, woodvamp is a doozy of a climber. Especially as, unlike some vigorous vines, it clings gently to walls, fences, and mature trees, creating a soft, natural look rather than an overwhelming one.

In late spring and early summer, it produces clusters of creamy-white flowers with a light, sweet fragrance. They're a little more understated than the huge mophead blooms many people associate with hydrangeas, but I actually think that's part of their charm. The lacecap-like flowers look wonderfully elegant scattered through the foliage, and they attract plenty of bees, butterflies, and other pollinators while they're in bloom.

(Image credit: Dorling Kindersley ltd/Alamy)

One of the quirks I find most interesting is that woodvamp only flowers well when it's allowed to climb. If it's grown as a groundcover, you'll get attractive foliage, but very few – if any – blooms. Give it something to scramble up, though, and it really comes into its own.

Then there's the autumn display. As the growing season winds down, the glossy green leaves often mellow into soft buttery yellow or warm tan shades before falling. It's not the fiery scarlet of a Virginia creeper, but it's a gentle, elegant finish that gives this vine another season of interest when many flowering climbers are already calling it a year.

I also love that it's beginning to be recognized under the botanical name Hydrangea barbara. For years, gardeners knew it almost exclusively as Decumaria barbara, but taxonomic revisions have brought it into the Hydrangea genus, reflecting just how closely related it is to the shrubs so many of us already grow and love. Don't be surprised if you see both names used by nurseries and botanical gardens.

The only downside? It isn't nearly as easy to find as climbing hydrangea or clematis. You'll usually have to seek it out from specialist native plant nurseries rather than your local garden center. Personally, I think that only adds to its appeal. Half the fun of gardening is discovering plants that make visitors stop and ask, "What on earth is that?"

Three More Flowering Vines That Shine Into Fall:

Urban Meadow Nursery Purple Passionflower Plant

The purple passionflower brings wonderfully exotic blooms, fascinating fruit, and excellent wildlife value. It's one of the most distinctive native vines you can grow, and pollinators absolutely adore it.

Green Promise Farms Sweet Autumn Clematis

If you're after clouds of fragrant white flowers as summer fades, sweet autumn clematis is hard to beat. Just be aware that it's considered invasive in parts of the eastern United States, so it's worth checking local guidance before planting.

Votaniki Clematis Jackmanii

For rich purple flowers that seem to keep coming, it's difficult to beat the classic 'Jackmanii'. With the right pruning, it flowers from summer well into early fall and looks spectacular climbing an obelisk or trellis.

There are so many wonderful flowering vines to choose from, but sometimes the plants that deserve the most attention are the ones hiding in plain sight. If you're looking for something a little different, I'd always encourage you to go native, go underrated, and give woodvamp a try, if only for the cool name!

Honestly? I don't think you'll regret it.

I think we can all admit that there are some plants that put on a spectacular show and disappear almost as quickly as they arrived. I love both, of course (there’s something special about an annual that gives you a perfect burst of seasonal beauty) but the ones I appreciate most are the longest-blooming perennials. Aka the ones that keep going, forever and seemingly ever..

Yes, the real stars of the garden are the plants that are still flowering weeks after everything else has started to fade. The ones that handle the hottest days of summer, keep borders looking full, and carry the garden right through that tricky transition between summer and fall.

The trick to a truly beautiful garden is setting one up so it doesn’t need constant replanting or endless maintenance. And the best way to do this? By filling it with the hardworking perennials that quietly bloom for months, return year after year, and make the whole garden (nay, life in general!) feel more effortless.

The 7 Longest-Blooming Perennials

In the market, then, for the longest-blooming perennials? Well, these are the plants I turn to when I want reliable color that lasts. They fill gaps, support pollinators, and give me that wonderful feeling of looking out at the garden and realizing there is still plenty of life and color left, even after summer has faded and fall has wrapped the world in all her mists and mellow fruitfulness.

Without any further ado, then...

1. Asters

(Image credit: AlpamayoPhoto / Getty Images)

Asters are the perennial I’m always grateful for when summer starts winding down. Just when many plants are looking tired, asters step in with clouds of purple, pink, or white flowers that carry the garden right into fall.

They’re also one of the most valuable late-season plants for pollinators. Bees and butterflies rely on those blooms when many earlier summer flowers are finished, making asters a beautiful and practical addition to any garden.

I love that they don’t demand much attention either. Give them a sunny spot and a little room to grow, and they reward you with one of the best late-season flower displays around. Try the Grape Crush New England Aster from Nature Hills for big bold purple color.

2. Catmint

(Image credit: Photo by Sam Scholes / Getty Images)

If I had to recommend one easy-care plant for almost any garden, catmint would be high on my list. Its soft blue-purple flowers appear for weeks, and with a quick trim after the first flush, it often rewards you with another round of blooms.

The silvery foliage on this longest-blooming perennial looks attractive even when it isn’t covered in flowers, and the whole plant has that relaxed cottage garden feel that makes a border look effortlessly beautiful.

It’s also wonderfully tough. Catmint handles heat, tolerates dry spells, and doesn’t need to be fussed over to look good (go for something like Walker's Low Catmint from Nature Hills if you want to make your life easier).

3. Salvia

Salvia is one of the longest-blooming perennials going, which means it is obviously a plant that earns its place every single year. The tall flower spikes add structure and color, and pollinators absolutely adore them (I have some outside my window as I type, and there are bees all over the stuff!).

I especially like perennial salvias because they keep producing those jewel-like blooms through summer with very little attention. They’re the kind of plant you can almost forget about – until you notice how many bees and butterflies are visiting.

With a little deadheading, many varieties keep sending up fresh flowers, making them one of the most reliable sources of summer color. All hail salvia!

Shop Salvia Below:

Nature Hills Nursery May Night Salvia

Minimal to zero deadheading required here, just plenty of purple flowers!

Nature Hills Nursery Bumbleberry Salvia

This bold salvia promises season-long color and happy bees in their droves.

Nature Hills Nursery Marcus Salvia

This compact dwarf cultivar proves size really does not matter when it comes to salvia.

4. Coreopsis

(Image credit: Thrillerfillerspiller / Alamy)

If you want one of the longest-blooming perennials around, absolutely look to tickseed, because coreopsis brings the kind of cheerful color that instantly makes a garden feel happier. Those daisy-like flowers can keep appearing from early summer well into fall, especially when spent blooms are removed.

Modern varieties have made these plants even better, with improved flowering, compact growth, and colors that work beautifully in both borders and containers.

It’s one of those plants that makes gardening feel easy because it gives so much while asking for very little. Opt for all things bright and beautiful, then, and try Sunshine Superman Coreopsis from Nature Hills (on offer now, no less!).

5. Coneflower (Echinacea)

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Coneflowers are one of those plants that seem to improve with age. They look beautiful in full bloom, but I also love leaving the seed heads standing later in the season because they add winter interest and provide food for birds.

They handle heat beautifully once established and bring a wonderful prairie-style feel to the garden. The flowers keep coming through summer, and they’re a favorite with pollinators.

For me, they’re one of those plants that look good at every stage – from fresh blooms to dried seed heads. And I know I bang on about it constantly, but the Magnus Purple Coneflower from Nature Hills is the way to go if you hate the droop that echniacea usually falls prey to.

6. Yarrow

(Image credit: N Stertz / Shutterstock)

Yarrow is one of those underrated plants that deserves far more attention. The flat flower clusters add a completely different shape to the garden, and the blooms seem to float above the foliage.

It thrives in heat, tolerates dry conditions, and doesn’t need perfect soil to perform. Once established, it’s exactly the kind of dependable perennial that makes a garden easier to manage.

I love plants like this because they quietly do their job while other, fussier flowers struggle. And, if you want one that looks like the picture above, you need the Strawberry Seduction™ Yarrow from Nature Hills in your life.

7. Geranium ‘Rozanne’

(Image credit: Mike Russell / Shutterstock)

Geranium ‘Rozanne’ (aka hardy geranium) has earned its reputation as one of the longest-blooming perennials for a reason. It produces masses of blue-purple flowers and has one of the longest bloom periods of any hardy geranium.

I love the way it spills gently through a border, softening edges and filling gaps between larger plants. It feels natural rather than overly planned, which is exactly the look I often want in a garden.

It’s the kind of perennial that quietly works away for months, giving you color long after many other plants have finished. And Rozanne Hardy Geranium is 20% off at Nature Hills right now, too.

BONUS: And The Rest!

(Image credit: FedeLag / Shutterstock)

There are plenty of other perennials that deserve a mention on our list of longest-blooming perennials; agastache, for example, is a fantastic choice for sunny gardens, with tall flower spikes that hummingbirds and bees adore. Rudbeckia brings bright golden blooms and a cheerful late-summer display, while gaura adds airy majesty that seem to dance above the foliage.

Then we have penstemon, another excellent pollinator plant, and heliopsis delivers months of sunny yellow flowers with very little fuss. Which to choose, eh?

Shop Longest-Blooming Perennials Below:

Proven Winners Yellow 'Treasure Trove' Black-Eyed Susan

No garden is complete without a burst of yellow from a well-placed rudbeckia, is it?

Clovers Garden Gaura Sparkle White Plants

Continuous blooms? Yes please! Gaura is the way to go if this is the vibe you want.

The Gardening World Penstemon Flower Seeds

Hummingbirds love this long-blooming perennial, making it a great one to plant!

The beauty of these plants is that they don’t just look good for a fleeting moment. The clue is in the name, folks; they earn their place by showing up year after year, filling the garden with color, and making summer gardening feel much easier.

A garden full of the longest-blooming perennials isn’t just beautiful – it’s a garden that keeps giving. Time to hop on the bandwagon, then; it just makes sense.

Most jade plants leave the store looking like small shrubs, and plenty stay that way for years. The trunk stays thin. Branches stretch toward the window and away from the room, and eventually the whole plant leans instead of standing. Summer is when that pattern either breaks or sets.

July lands in the middle of active growth for Crassula ovata, which is why so much of good jade plant care concentrates in this window. Cuts seal within days at this time of year. New shoots follow a pinch quickly, and the plant has energy to spare for thickening, not just reaching.

5 Jade Plant Tasks Worth Doing in July

None of this is difficult or time-consuming, and it doesn’t need a strict schedule. What matters is timing – the plant is growing hard right now, so it responds quickly in a way it won’t come October.

1. Water Deeply, Then Leave It Alone

(Image credit: Tatiana Foxy / Getty Images)

Heat pushes most houseplants into daily thirst. Jade works the other way – the leaves are the water tank, and roots left sitting damp are what actually kills these plants. Soak the mix until water runs from the drainage hole, then wait until it's bone dry to the base before going again. Clay helps here. A terra cotta pot like this one from Amazon breathes and pulls moisture out through its walls, which speeds up that drying considerably. Plus it looks exactly like a paper bag, which is fun.

Skip the calendar and read the leaves. Ones that have gone slightly soft, or picked up a faint pucker along the surface, are asking for water. Firm and plump means wait. Yellowing leaves that drop at a touch point the opposite way, toward overwatering. In a hot July the gap between soakings might still stretch to a couple of weeks, and a jade left dry is in far less danger than one kept wet.

2. Move It Outdoors, Slowly

(Image credit: Olena Polkovnykova / Getty Images)

Real sunlight does things a windowsill never manages. Stems thicken, internodes shorten so growth stays compact instead of stretchy, and the leaf margins often blush red – a stress response that happens to look striking. Moving it outside is the single biggest thing you can do for jade in summer.

Rushing it burns the plant, though. A jade fresh off a winter windowsill scorches in direct sun almost immediately, and those bleached patches never green up. So the move happens in stages. Start it in full shade, give it morning sun only after a week, then find it a spot that gets sun for the better part of the day. Rain is the other thing to watch, because a plant left outside through a wet stretch takes on water faster than the mix sheds it. Bring it back indoors once nights start dropping toward 50F (10C).

3. Feed Lightly While Growth Is Happening

(Image credit: Danica Jakovljevic / Getty Images)

Fertilizer earns its place only while a plant is actively growing. July qualifies. A jade wants a fraction of what any leafy houseplant takes, so Miracle-Gro succulent plant food from Amazon goes on at half the label strength, once for the month. Water first, though – fertilizer landing on parched roots burns them.

4. Pinch and Prune for Branching

(Image credit: JulieK2 / Shutterstock)

Here's the mechanism behind every sculptural jade worth looking at. A stem that keeps its growing tip keeps extending in one direction. Remove that tip and the plant tends to push two new shoots from the leaf pair just below the cut. One branch turns into two. Repeat it the following summer, and the one after – the dense, tree-like frame on an old jade is a few seasons of exactly this, nothing more clever.

Pinch soft new tips between finger and thumb, or cut woody stems just above a leaf pair with clean snips. Take no more than a third of the plant at once, and keep an eye on where the weight should end up – branches multiply from wherever the cut lands. Keep the jade cuttings too. Leave them somewhere dry and shaded until the cut ends callus over, then set them in a dry mix and hold off watering for a week.

5. Inspect the Joints and Check the Roots

(Image credit: simonapilolla / Getty Images)

White cottony specks tucked down in the leaf joints are mealybugs (Planococcus citri). Jade sits high on their host list. A cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol handles what's visible. Look again a week on, though, because the eggs come off in waves and one pass never gets them all. Heat speeds up that cycle. Something small in July has turned into something else by the end of August. Root mealybugs are nastier, hiding below the soil line where a mix like this bag of Hoffman organic cactus and succulent soil mix from Amazon and a fresh pot become the only real fix.

Tip the plant out of its container while the mix is dry and look at what's down there. Roots circling the inside wall call for repotting, and so does a mix broken down into something dense and soil-like. When repotting jade go up one pot size only, and use gritty succulent mix. Ordinary compost holds far too much water around a jade, for far too long. Handled well, July does most of the heavy lifting for you. Give a jade plant the right signals now, and the fuller, more sculptural shape people chase for years starts to build on its own.

Jade Care Essentials

6 Inch Terra Cotta Pot

Organic Cactus and Succulent Mix

Indoor Cactus & Succulent Food

AmericanHort’s Cultivate Expo in Columbus, Ohio, is North America’s premier horticultural show each year with some of the world’s best plant breeders showcasing their latest developments. Also on display is the best new technology and robotics that are improving greenhouse growing efficiencies. Their seminars and educational forums cover a wide range of relevant topics from marketing, integrated pest management for insect and disease control, and innovative opportunities within the industry. Even Martha Stewart was there gathering ideas.

This year’s Cultivate was one of the best shows I’ve been to over the past 30 years, and I would love to share with you some of the best new plants.

Chris Hansen is a brilliant American plant breeder and someone I’ve known for years. His focus is on sedums and sempervivums. He has been the recipient of several international awards, including for his Golden Nugget yellow Chick Charms sedum series. His new variety of ajuga called Feathered Friends is now turning heads, and his vibrantly coloured sedum SunSparkler series have all been acclaimed additions to the gardening world.

My go-to sedum, however, is his evergreen Angelina series. Hansen developed Angelina’s Tea Cup and Angelina Prima, more compact and non-flowering varieties, which are much improved over his original Angelina.

Hansen took me by the arm and excitedly showed me his latest innovation. Well, in the world of sedums, he knocked this one out of the park.

Branded Tight & Tidy, he has developed five new varieties of evergreen sedums, prairie hardy to Zone 3, adding brilliance to gardens and containers the whole year round. Mildew resistant and growing only about three inches tall by fifteen inches wide they do, truly, remain Tight & Tidy all year long. Ranging from blue, pink, red, green and yellow, these go beyond the traditional sedums in adding a new dimension to the sedum world.

They will be available in late spring next year and I’m sure the demand for these exciting new plants will be significant. Congratulations, Chris.

For me, the second most innovative breeding breakthrough had to be the breathtaking feathered heucheras, branded Fyre Wings. These truly unique heucheras are hardy to Zone 5, have sun and shade tolerance and come in a wide range of seven colours. They catch your attention immediately with their striking fluffy foliage and will be outstanding in both beds and containers.

Terra Nova Nurseries in Oregon bred these innovative new heucheras, adding to their long list of internationally acclaimed introductions. They have been at the forefront of heuchera development for many years, but this is one of their most remarkable varieties.

Third on my list of great plant discoveries is a rose that changed my perspective on the best-selling series in North America.

The Knock Out series of roses continues to impress. Originally their claim to fame was their bulletproof ability to stand up to any type of wet, miserable spring weather by staying cleaner in foliage and stronger in bloom. They are also one of the hardiest winter varieties, down to Zone 5, needing little, if any, winter protection in our area.

With continued new breeding, Knock Out has evolved into some double red and pink varieties, but the star of the show was the new Triple Knock Out. This is a game changer with larger, fully double flowers and a delicate perfume. I did, in fact, stop and smell the roses at the show, and even in an enormous building, under less than optimum conditions, they had a lovely fragrance.

There were many additional take-aways from the show, from thoughtful plant compositions to interesting trends.

We do nice combinations of flowers in many varieties, but we seem to plant lavenders in single colours. One creative company showcased both the more tender Spanish types and the hardier English types with blended colours and textures in one container. It was a refreshing look and very attractive.

Today, there are many shades of blues and purples available, and blended with pink and white, I thought they looked stunning. It was great to see this idea, and for both your containers and garden beds, I’m sure you’ll love lavender displayed in this new way.

Mandevillas are still making great strides at becoming the go-to hot summer flower with so many new varieties, colours and plant forms. From strong, upright varieties, to a climbing series, and trailing varieties for hanging baskets, they have never been more versatile. The colour range as well, from the traditional white, red and pink, to yellow, salmon and bicolours, will spice up our summer gardens, planters and hanging baskets. Remember these are plants that thrive in summer heat.

Lilies seem to be making a comeback in today’s gardens, mostly as a lift to perennial borders. They make wonderful, reasonably long-lasting candidates for cut flower gardens, too. I would leave them the first growing season, as they will usually have just one stem. After a year or two, however, they will produce multiple stems creating many opportunities for cut bouquets. The colour choices today are simply amazing: from blacks and bicolours, they now come in so many unique shades.

The Oriental lilies not only have a great colour selection, but they also share a beautiful perfume. I was speaking with several of the breeders who mentioned that double Orientals are becoming very popular and, again, are available in a wide range of colours.

Many of the lilies are pollenless, meaning no anthers to stain your nose or your clothes. A single bulb, planted in fall or spring, will provide beauty and fragrance for many years making them, perhaps, the best value in a perennial.

These are my top take-aways from Cultivate ’26. It was a wonderful show, filled with amazing people, incredible innovation, and captivating plants.

Related

• Brian Minter: These are some of the great new plants undergoing testing right now
• Brian Minter: Now is the perfect time to plant for late summer colour and harvests

There are few pleasures in life as enjoyable as waking up to birds chirping in the summer. But most people assume they can’t have that if they live in an apartment or a home with a smaller balcony. Not so! A clip-on railing bird bath doesn’t take up any floor space, doesn’t require using a hammer or a screwdriver to install, and you can turn even the tiniest perch into a real wildlife stop.

Balcony railing bird baths have come a long way. They now combine a clamp system that grips a standard railing without falling off, a bowl that is deep enough for birds to actually bathe in, and materials that are weatherproof. Some of these even double as a bird feeder so you can attract birds that are always looking for food.

Below I'll share exactly what to look for in a clip-on bird bath and a handful of my favorite options that are actually worth buying.

What Makes a Good Railing Bird Bath?

Before you buy, it's worth knowing what separates a useful balcony bird bath from one that tips over and falls at the first gust of wind. A good clamp should fit railings of up to at least 2–3.5 inches thick and tighten securely with a simple turn screw.

The bowl should be shallow enough for small birds to swim safely (no more than 2 inches deep) and wide enough for a few birds to share at once. Rust-resistant materials (powder-coated metal, galvanized steel, or durable ABS plastic) are essential for anything left outside year-round.

But location matters, too. A railing bath on a balcony naturally sits above ground-level predators, which is one reason why birds seem to love them. For more on getting the most from your setup, our guide on bird bath placement mistakes is worth a read before you get started.

(Image credit: Tammi Mild / Getty Images)Best Clip-On Bird Baths for Balconies

Now that you know what makes a good balcony bird bath, here are four of my favorite options that will suit any outdoor space – no matter how small!

1. Best Budget Pick

Hanizi Bird Bath Deck-Mounted Bowl

If you want to give a railing bird bath a try but don’t want to break the piggy bank, the Hanizi Deck Mounted Bird Bath is a great option. The 12-inch bowl is lightweight and detachable, which means you can clean your bird bath easily. It also has an adjustable steel clamp that fits railings up to 2 inches thick with a simple turn-screw mechanism, so no tools are necessary.

It isn’t heated and has a pretty simple design, but it gets the job done for a low price. Reviewers note that it’s sturdy enough to handle normal wind without tipping over and the bowl is a good size for smaller birds like sparrows, finches, and wrens, who are most likely to visit a balcony.

2. Best 2-in-1 Pick

Teyigarden 2-In-1 Deck-Mounted Bird Bath

This is a smart and practical option for small apartment balconies or HOA-restricted homes. It has a no-drill clamp mount that will attach to any standard railing without leaving damage.

The carbon steel mesh seed tray can be used for all kinds of bird food like seeds, peanuts, suet, and grains and comes with a removable, windproof water bowl that doubles as a bird bath. It rotates 360 degrees, which means it’s ideal for viewing from indoors. Plus, it comes with a cleaning brush to keep the tray and bowl nice and fresh between refills.

3. Best Cast Iron Pick

Aifeorzo Deck Bird Bath and Feeder

If you prefer something that’s a bit prettier and has some character, this cast iron deck bird bath and feeder could be your pick. It has a scroll bracket and dragonfly detailing which looks beautiful on your balcony, but is also functional. It’s heavy-duty due to being made of cast iron and has a multi-layer powder-coated finish, which means it’s rust-resistant.

Its bowl is 11.34 inches in diameter and comes with a separate feeder tray, meaning there is space for several birds at once. It’s heavier than plastic alternatives, which actually works in its favor: once clamped, it stays in place. It’s a great option if you want something decorative yet useful and pairs well with these bird bath plants, if you have room for a pot or two nearby.

4. Best Solar Pick

MinWadil Deck-Mounted Bird Bath

If you want to take it one step further and add a solar-powered bird bath fountain to your balcony (again, you will draw significantly more birds this way), this lovely green option does it without any wiring at all. A solar pump is built into the 12.6-inch bowl and creates a gentle bubbling effect.

It has a heavy-duty metal clamp that adjusts to fit railings up to 3.5 inches thick and holds the bowl securely even when birds are getting crazy bathing and hanging out. The bowl is on the deeper side (3 inches deep), so add a few small stones in the center for smaller birds to move around safely.

Summer heat can make outdoors uncomfortable for both you and your plants – if you don’t select them carefully. Wilting ornamentals are a sad sight to see, but if your privacy shrubs are impacted, your entire landscape can start to feel endangered. That’s why it’s important to install hedging that won’t get dry and brittle under scorching summer heat.

Some shrubs for landscape hedges won’t shrivel and die in hot sunshine. You’ll want to pick heat-resistant, drought-tolerant shrubs that can take summer’s worst. To get you on your way, we’ve put together a list of our top five hedge shrubs that will keep on protecting your privacy during any and all heatwaves this summer.

5 Best Privacy Shrubs that Can Take the Heat

Which shrubs will stay happy and healthy during the hottest sunshine of summer? Pick varieties with dense, heat-tolerant foliage. If the plants thrive in the hot sun, they won’t wilt or shrivel as temperatures rise. The best choices will be drought-resistant evergreen shrubs.

1. Wax Leaf Privet

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Wax leaf privet (Ligustrum japonicum), also called Japanese privet, is a large evergreen shrub native to eastern Asia. Its natural shape is compact, but it can grow to 12 feet (4m) tall and 6 feet (2m) wide while remaining dense and upright. Some describe it as having a “giant meatball” shape, considered a top choice for medium-size screening. Fast Growing Trees has a 'Texanum' wax leaf privet variety that will grow into a lovely hedge.

These shrubs are extremely resilient and thrive in a full sun location. It is not just heat tolerant, but also drought and salt spray tolerant. All in all, it’s a tough privacy plant with dark green foliage and white spring flowers that appear on new growth. It thrives in USDA hardiness zones 7-10.

2. Yardline Viburnum

(Image credit: beekeepx / Getty Images)

You might not expect such a tough plant to be so lovely. Yardline viburnum (Viburnum awabuki) is a heat-tolerant, sunshine-loving upright evergreen shrub. It is a four-season beauty, with shiny, dense, leathery leaves year-round, plus white flower clusters in spring and bright red berries in fall and winter, making them very popular with wild birds.

Yardline is a narrow, low-maintenance shrub, growing to 12 feet (4m) tall but only 2 feet (1m) wide, a great space-saving choice for hot regions in USDA hardiness zones 7-10. It likes well-drained soil and is extremely drought-tolerant once established. The Viburnum awabuki 'Chindo' variety can be found at Fast Growing Trees.

3. Bottlebrush

(Image credit: Firelia / Shutterstock)

If you’d like a flowering evergreen shrub for a heat-tolerant privacy screen, consider bottlebrush (Callistemon spp.). It’s native to Australia, and thrives in USDA zones 8-11. This large shrub is a favorite for its unusual, brush-like flowers in shades of red or pink that appeal to bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

Despite its ornamental value, bottlebrush is highly tolerant of both heat and drought, although it does need irrigation until it is established. It requires a full sun site and sharp drainage. It not only shrugs off the heat and provides flowers even in the hottest weather. Find bottlebrush shrubs from Fast Growing Trees for a unique and low-maintenance addition to your landscaping.

4. Carolina Cherry

(Image credit: Anna Nelidova / Getty Images)

A Carolina cherry (Prunus caroliniana) is also called Carolina laurelcherry, Carolina cherry laurel, and Cherry laurel. It is evergreen, native to the hot lowlands of the Southeastern United States. This ornamental tree is extremely popular with southern homeowners since it needs minimal care and thrives in full sun environments.

The Carolina cherry tree is both drought and heat tolerant. Like almost every other drought-tolerant shrub, a Carolina cherry does require watering until it is established. This smaller evergreen has bright, dark green foliage that looks gorgeous in a landscape. Add to that the creamy white, fragrant flowers that appear in spring, followed by attractive black berries that contrast beautifully with the foliage.

This sun-loving plant is hardy in USDA zones 7a through 10 b, attracting wild birds and pollinators too. Carolina cherry laurel starts can be found at Walmart for a great price.

5. Texas Sage

(Image credit: Bowonpat Sakaew / Getty Images)

Tough Texas sage (Leucophyllum frutescens) asks very little and gives a lot. This evergreen is native to the South and thrives in the warmer zones, USDA hardiness zones 8 through 11. Its leaves are silvery-gray and help the plant reflect light on hot summer days. They also hold onto moisture during droughts.

Texas sage grows to 8 feet (2.5 m) in both directions, thriving in intense sun even in the poorest soil. Then - surprise! The shrub burst into bloom after periods of rain or humidity. Get ready for these phenomenal purple blooms when you purchase Texas sage shrubs from Fast Growing Trees.

Call it midsummer madness, but I’ve been staring out of windows a lot lately, and the backyard has been filled with much-needed stillness and wonder. The other day, I found myself watching a sparrow bouncing from terracotta pot to dappled bird bath to cherry branch, sometimes with bits of a dandelion clock stuck to his beak. His unabashed joy and curiosity filled me with a sense of rightness in the world. So it’s only natural to want more of that, and to feel a little pang of frustration when the bird bath sits there in the stillness, just being… well, still.

If you find yourself watching and waiting, and wondering where the birdies are, it’s all about that stillness. Sometimes it’s tempting to think there’s a bit of pot luck involved in enticing chickadees and warblers out to play, but there actually is a bit of method to the madness, and if you want to attract more birds to your backyard, it’s all about the ripple effect. A flat, glassy disc of water is not only uninviting to birdies, it can be a little intimidating. Yes, really. Your little avian friends might be curious, thirsty and sociable, but many species are also timid. To a cautious bird led entirely by instinct, static water feels invisible at best and risky at worst.

But you can do something now, very quickly, to transform your still waters into a shimmering, sparkly splash zone that no backyard bird can resist for long. This super-simple bottle dripper trick doesn’t need to cost you a dime, it doesn’t require oodles of technique, and it takes literally minutes to set up. Interested? Here’s how to instantly transform that static water into a hoppy, fluttery wonderland. Oh, and as a special bonus, this quick trick can also help keep the mosquitoes away. Win-win!

Why Birds Need Moving Water

Garden birds are obsessed with moving water. And yes, the ripple effect is definitely a thing. As someone who used to care for budgies in my youth, I would find it fascinating how they would stare at a bird bath from a distance, gazing at it with hypnotic interest. If only I could have told my younger self that they might have needed a little more coercion than repeatedly pleading “come on, come on” in a little voice.

The way birds approach a bath is 1 part curiosity and 9 parts hesitation. That glass disc of water is a mystery. It’s hard to judge the depth, impossible to tell if it’s fresh, and it could leave them vulnerable to predators. But add a rhythmic drip, and the energy changes. The ripples and sounds are a compelling combo. Few backyard birds can resist the allure of a bird bath filled with sparkles and splashes.

(Image credit: Kevin McCarthy / Alamy)

That gentle sound of water movement and light play creates a lovely blend of sonic and visual cues for a bird. Literally breaking the tension, it announces fresh water and it gives your finches, sparrows and bluebirds a sense of how deep that water is. Moving water can entice the shyest backyard visitors. Dainty yellow warblers love moving water and will flutter with abandon under falling droplets, while curious chickadees and nuthatches will perform adorable, hoppy zip-and-dips.

And remember what I said about mosquitoes? A rhythmic drip of water breaking the surface tension in a bird bath can also reduce summer mosquitoes. Skeeters need still water to lay their eggs. By keeping the surface constantly rippling, you make it impossible for mosquitoes to set up camp and help keep water clean. You can get some useful commercial skeeter controls, like Summit Mosquito Dunks and Summit Mosquito Bits, both from Amazon. But this dripper trick gives you a very pretty alternative in the form of a cheep (yes, I went there), cheerful splash zone. So how do you make it? Read on…

Prepare the Bath for Your Dripper

(Image credit: Gerald DeBoer / Getty Images)

The best thing about this bottle dripper trick is that you don't need a fancy, expensive setup to make it work. This trick involves suspending one specially prepared bottle of water above your bird bath, either using a tree branch or a shepherd’s crook. So all you need is a basic household plastic bottle and a few spare minutes. Oh, and a bird bath, of course. Bird baths can run to the hundreds, but the only necessity here is that it is sturdy for weight and safe for birds.

Theoretically, you can use a ground-based, deck-mount or floating bird bath with this dripper trick, it’s all possible. If you are thinking of pairing the dripper with a hanging bird bath, just make sure it is strong, wide and relatively shallow. The wide rim of the gorgeous Monarch Abode Copper Hammered Bird Bath Bowl, from Amazon, is perfect for the surface area for the trick and for the splashing sound.

You can also make this trick work if you are able to position your hanging bottle over a deck-mounted (clamp-style) bath. If you have a deck or a balcony, you can use a bath like the Misopily Deck Mount Bird Bath Bowl from Lowe’s, which clamps securely to patio railings. As long as you have a way of dangling the bottle above it, you’re in business. Just keep an eye on weight and balance. Make sure hanging chains or deck brackets are securely anchored before setting up your drip.

(Image credit: Nankirkpatrick / Getty Images)

Personally, I find pedestal or standing bird baths work best for this trick. You can use a resin-based bath, like the vintage-style Best Choice Vintage Fleur de Lis Standing Bird Bath from Amazon or a more heavyweight ceramic style. For a little color with your splashing, the Mumtop Hummingbird Bird Bath from Walmart is pretty. Word to the wise, it will be more alluring to common garden birds than tiny hummers, but it holds its own under a water dripper. Finally, the Sunnydaze Avignon Freestanding Ceramic Bird Bath from Walmart is admittedly pricier, but it will pay for itself in terms of bird traffic and it's sturdy and durable.

If you're using a shallow ground dish, a simple plant stake pushed into the soil right beside the bowl can hold your bottle steady. Whatever bird bath you use, just make sure it is strong and safe. As a bit of housekeeping, bear in mind that small birds prefer a water depth of just 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm). If your basin is deep, add a few smooth river rocks or flat stones to the bottom, so tiny feet have a firm place to land, sip and play.

Make Your Bottle Dripper

(Image credit: Art Phaneuf / Alamy)

Transforming a humble plastic bottle into a birdie splash zone takes only a few minutes. The key is getting your setup sturdy and your drip rate finely tuned. The ideal is a clean 16-to-32-ounce plastic water or soda bottle. Larger 2-liter jugs hold more water, but they can get heavy and sag, while tiny single-serve bottles empty out too quickly in the heat. Next, you need a thin sewing pin or needle. You can grab a pack of Singer Hand Sewing Needles from Walmart. Poke a single tiny hole into the bottom of the bottle. The size of the hole is important, so make sure it is tiny.

Once you’ve made the pinhole, fill the bottle with clean water and tighten the cap. With the cap screwed tight, a vacuum forms in the bottle, causing the drip to slow to a stop. But loosen the cap just a fraction, and air enters. This allows steady droplets to fall. Don’t worry, this is as technical as the trick gets, but it’s pretty cool, eh? Test your bottle over the sink until you find the sweet spot, which is a drip every couple of seconds. This creates an inviting sound without draining your reservoir too quickly or frightening skittish, dainty visitors that might be gathering the courage to hop closer.

(Image credit: Stefano Madrigali / Getty Images)

Securing your bottle safely is crucial. You can wedge it in place, perhaps in the groove of a tree branch. But suspending it above the bath gives you more control over height, tension, and access. You can find shepherd hooks to help with this, such as the Beau Jardin Heavy Duty Shepherd Hook from Amazon. Hang your bottle 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) over the center of your bird bath basin. This height means droplets hit the water surface below with enough force to create glistening ripples and a soft plink that will resonate with your birdie community.

Wrap wire or twine tightly around the neck and base of the bottle to create a harness for the bottle dripper. Double up some jute like Nutscene Greentwist Garden Twine from The Home Depot to hold the bottle securely in place. By the way, if you’re worried about what the birds might think of a giant plastic bottle hovering in mid-air, good call – but it’s fine. They might give it a bit of a side-eye to start with, but once they realize that giant floating bubble is the source of fresh, moving water, they’ll soon be won over. And voila, one splash zone, coming right up!

Other Options for the Ripple Effect

(Image credit: Robert Steinbach / Getty Images)

This bird bath bottle dripper trick is a brilliant, budget-friendly entry point if you’re looking to turn your backyard into a birdie holiday resort. Of course, you might eventually decide you want to upgrade. You can get floating solar fountain inserts which harness the summer sun to create plumes of water. Float-and-go options like the Dartwood Solar Bird Bath Fountain from Lowe’s and the MadeMax Solar Bird Bath Fountain Pump from Amazon turn static basins into dynamic bathing spots for birdies. Just drop in your bath and make sure it receives some good sunlight.

You can also get battery-powered and solar-powered water agitators or “wiggler” devices. These create continuous water ripples across the surface of the bird bath water, such as the Solar Water Wiggler from Walmart. For a gentle artisanal alternative, the butterfly shaped Copper Bird Bath Water Wiggler from Walmart creates gentle movement and the copper can also help maintain water freshness.

Finally, you can try fine mist setups that attach to garden hoses. These cast a cloud of micro-droplets and are popular with hummingbirds. Nozzles are available that attach to standard hoses to create fine water clouds. For water features that can also charm local hummingbirds, try a Mellbree Mister Nozzle Kit from Amazon. But I have to say, our simple plastic bottle dripper measures up brilliantly for the cash-strapped and time-poor looking to entice birdies to play.

Summer Bird Bath & Dripper Care

(Image credit: WilliamSherman / Getty Images)

A vibrant, splash-tastic bird bath is only as good as its cleanliness, no matter what else you might throw at it. In peak summer heat, algae can bloom quickly, making regular checks important. Your dripper requires very little fuss, but just check the bottle cap every few days. If the steady drip slows or stops, there could be a speck of algae or mineral build-up clogging the pinhole. A quick poke with a pin should clear the opening. Also rinse out the bottle whenever you refill it. It’s a good idea to swap in a fresh recycled bottle every 3 weeks in summer.

Refill the bath daily and give it a thorough scrub twice a week. Use a stiff-bristled brush, like the Modanu Ergonomic Brush for Bird Baths from Walmart. Stick to non-toxic enzyme cleaners or a simple mixture of 1 part white vinegar to 9 parts water. Dropping a copper disc into the basin is a great way of slowing down algae growth between cleans and helps to keep water fresh for longer. The gold (or should that be copper?) standard is the team fave Melbree Pure Copper Bird Bath Disc from Amazon. Keeping your bath in dappled or partial light can reduce evaporation and algal blooms, but you need to balance this with any solar-powered fountain pumps or wigglers you bring to the party.

Shop Bird Bath Extras

(Image credit: © Jackie Bale / Getty Images)

Your summer bird sanctuary deserves a few little treats, for you as well as your resident birdlife. This backyard bundle is tailored to a safe, happy avian retreat that you can enjoy from your sunlounger or kitchen window. Whether you are setting up your very first basin or looking to add a little extra magic to your current dripping setup, these birdie upgrades will keep your feathered friends happy, hydrated, and coming back for more.

Bird Bath Trio

Birdie Splendor

MUMTOP Mumtop Outdoor Hummingbird Glass Bird Bath With Metal Stand

This pretty jewel-toned basin is made from durable embossed glass and the textured presentation is kinder on birdie feet. It’s a sweet rock-steady companion if, like me, you’d rather stick with a freestanding bath under your dripper, and it’s a real talking point for friends.

Sparkle Patrol

Mellbree Mellbree Bird Bath Copper Cleaning Disc

One of our favorite recommendations, this simple disc is glorious for keeping bird bath water sparkling clean without harsh chemicals. This shiny disc rests naturally in non-metallic basins, leaching safe copper ions into the water to slow down algal growth and reduce your bath-scrubbing routine with twinkly aplomb.

Solar Splashing

Mademax Mademax Solar Bird Bath Fountain

Once you’ve got your dripper working overtime, call in the reinforcements! If you need a backup, you can keep your feathered visitors amused with this floating fountain. Operating in sunlight, its dancing water sprays are a boon for birds, while preventing mosquito larvae from gatecrashing the party.

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Wicker swivel chairs and striped outdoor pillows, handled ceramic planters and soft pastel patio rugs: Drew Barrymore’s yard collection at Walmart looks just like my daydreams of a perfect garden. Maybe Drew’s missing the wildflower meadows of her 12-acre Westchester County estate she listed for just shy of $5 million in March, but there sure is more than a fragrant whiff of nostalgic whimsy in the styling of her curated Beautiful patio collection.

Not at the expense of practicalities, though. The chair comes with a storage cover to keep those bouclé cushions spotless, the pots have drainage holes, and the rugs are hose- and machine-washable. So while Drew may be used to having an actual garden of dreams, she absolutely seems to know what we normal folk want in our real-life yards. Because this is a winning mix of style and substance, not to mention good ol’ common sense, as testified by customer ratings – the lowest I could find across Drew’s entire patio line was four-and-a-half stars out of five.

But then, we all know Drew can turn her hand to anything from befriending ET to being a daytime talkshow host – and showing us all how to create a decadent bathtub canopy of trailing houseplant stems in her swish urban-jungle bathroom, of course. No wonder, then, that Drew has delivered yet again with this garden collection made for modern life. And did I mention it's at Walmart? And some of it is on sale at Walmart? Let's shop!

Our Picks From Drew’s Garden Line

Launched in Walmart in April of this year, Drew’s curated patio and garden collection combines pretty and practical at a good pricepoint. A number of products are now on sale, making these items more appealing than ever.

Our Pick of Beautiful Pots

Cute handles

Beautiful 6” Soft Teal Handled Ceramic Indoor/Outdoor Planter

Elegant tone

Beautiful 7” Soft Teal Handled Ceramic Indoor/Outdoor Planter

Floral pattern

Beautiful 8” Sage Wildflower Footed Ceramic Indoor/Outdoor Planter

Our Pick of Beautiful Patio Furniture

Robust steel frame

Beautiful Wicker Swivel Chair with Bouclé Cushions

Reversible Top

Beautiful Wicker Outdoor Ottoman and Coffee Table

Summer shades

Beautiful 18”x18” Coral Stripe Decorative Outdoor Pillow

Our Pick of Beautiful Outdoor Dining

Keep drinks fly-free

Beautiful 2 Tritan Swirl Texture Sipper Tumblers with Wooden Lids

Strong & stackable

Beautiful 1.5 Gallon Acrylic Swirl Stackable Dispenser with Wooden Lid

Perfect for chips

Beautiful 14.6” x 6” Bamboo Melamine Serve with Sardine Dip Bowls

Our Pick of Beautiful Outdoor Rugs

natural neutrals

Beautiful 5’ x 7’ Tiles Outdoor Rug

Soft Blues

Beautiful 5’ x 7’ Arches Outdoor Rug

Dreamy greens

Beautiful 7’ x 10’ Tiled Stripes Outdoor Rug

Nice, huh? Combine your purchases with a few quick and clever container ideas – and perhaps a budget but blooming lovely DIY water feature – to turn your deck or patio into an outdoor living space, you too will have yourself a garden of dreams.

Husqvarna and Stihl are titans of the chainsaw world – and we pitted two of their best models against each other to see who cuts the competition down to size.

Swedish-based Husqvarna and German-based Stihl are both reputable brands, so we're off to a good start. Husqvarna produces popular high-quality gardening tools like strimmers and mowers as well as chainsaws. Stihl is also an expert in the gardening field, providing a host of excellent and durable tools to help you get the job done.

These industry leaders are well-known for producing some of the best chainsaws on the market today, but it can be hard to know which is right for you. Let’s dive full throttle into the competitors’ best chainsaws and see whether the the Stihl MS 211 or Husqvarna 440 comes out on top.

STIHL Stihl Ms 211 18 Gas Chainsaw

Type: Gas powered
Bar size: 18in
Weight: 12.3lbs
Emissions: Low emissions
Battery capacity/fuel tank volume: 16.9oz
Engine power: 2.6 kW
Safety: Mechanical safety brake
Settings: Summer and winter starter

Weighing in at just over 12 lbs, this is not a saw for the faint-hearted. But in actual fact it’s a decent weight for such a capable tool, and with an ergonomic design and anti vibration technology, it is designed to be as comfortable to use as possible, despite its size.

With the capability to clear medium sized trees, it has some cool features - including winter and summer settings to ensure it won’t let you down when you’re firing it up in varied conditions. And they stand it in good stead, because user reviews are all really positive.

Pros

• Sturdy and powerful
• Good fuel efficiency
• Can tackle large-diameter wood

Cons

• Can only buy through a dealer

Husqvarna Husqvarna 440 Gas Chainsaw

Type: Gas powered
Bar size: 20/24in bar available
Recommended max cut: 44 inches
Weight: 13.2lbs
Power: Max power 9000 rpm
Horsepower: 3.62
Fuel consumption: 437 g/kWh
Vibration: Front handle at 3.8 m/s² , rear handle at 6.9 m/s²
Noise: 104 dB
Warranty: 2 years

Husqvarna is a brand well-known for its quality - and this model is no exception. It sits at the top end of the models designed for amateur use (both brands produce ‘professional’ models made for those working as arborists or in similar roles). However, it now only seems to be offered with 20 or 24 in blades (and users in the UK may have trouble sourcing it, so we suggest looking for the 455 model instead).

Recommended for tidying up small to medium trees and cutting up firewood, it boasts good fuel efficiency, decent safety features and low emissions - and promises to be a good starter.

Pros

• Powerful
• Comfortable to use
• Easy to start

Cons

• Needs assembly out of the box
• Heavy

Stihl vs Husqvarna chainsaw: Performance

Chainsaws can make felling and pruning trees a much quicker and simpler task. As chainsaw expert and founder of both firepitfanatic.com and firewood-for-life.com Nick Greenway puts it: “You can do a lot of work in a short amount of time using a chainsaw. Whether you're trimming some branches or cutting down full-sized trees, a chainsaw is an amazing tool to have around your home.”

When it comes to your chainsaw, you want something with enough power to get the job done but is not difficult to operate or use safely. In terms of raw power, the Husqvarna 440 just edges out the Stihl MS 211. The 440 has an engine power of 2.4 horsepower and a displacement of 40.99 cc. The Stihl MS 211 is just behind with 2.3 horsepower and a displacement of 35.2 cc.

The lightweight MS 211 can cope with a range of tasks and can cut through wood with ease. It is a great all-rounder to have on hand when you want to fell small-to-medium trees or cross-cut and debranch them. This chainsaw is conveniently sized and easy to start to make getting the job done as simple as possible.

The Husqvarna 440 is incredibly easy to start and operate thanks to its wide variety of features. It is also two pounds heavier than its MS 211 counterpart, coming in at 9.7 pounds total. It is still very easy to lug around from job to job and is well-balanced during use.

In terms of negatives, there are a couple of things to bear in mind with each model. The MS 211 has sluggish tension in the chain and a knob that could be softer. The On button could also be more visible and large for those using gloves. On the other hand, some customers have reported that the Husqvarna 440 can have some idling issues out of the box and may need time to warm up before hitting its best performance.

With all this in mind, it's a close call. However, we think the Stihl MS 211 just edges out the Husqvarna due to its sheer power and ease of use.

Stihl vs Husqvarna chainsaw: Features

Modern chainsaws come with a wide range of features to make them easier and safer to use. So, whose features are better?

The Husqvarna has no shortage of convenient features. The SmartStart Technology ensures that starting your 440 chainsaw takes minimal effort from you. At the same time, the QuickStart with Air Purge removes air from the carburetor and fuel system to add to that easy start feeling. The combined choke and stop control make starting easier and reduce the risk of engine flooding during use.

Once you get going, the Low Vibration Technology places dampeners between the engine and the chassis, reducing fatigue and making the chainsaw more comfortable to hold during use. The Fuel Indicator system ensures that you are never caught out mid-job again. The X-Cut Dedicated felling marks keep your incredibly sharp and durable X-Cut chain precise every time.

When you need to idle your 440 chainsaw, the chain oil pump disengages with the engine to reduce oil consumption and emissions. This is not even counting the maintenance features incorporated into the design.

Stihl’s MS 211 chainsaw, on the other hand, keeps it short and sweet when it comes to features. Made in the USA, the MS 211 has the exclusive ElastoStart handle with starting grip and built-in shock absorber designed to reduce the effort when pulling on your starter cord.

Once you're raring to go, the MS 211 chainsaw has an anti-vibration system to keep you comfortable and minimize fatigue during a job. The Ematic lubrication system and guide bar provide proper lubrication and work to minimize oil consumption by 50 percent. The Master Control Lever is a single-use lever that operates the choke, works the throttle lock, and the on/off switch for convenient handling. Should you need to stop suddenly, the Quickstop chain brake will stop chain rotation if manually activated or by inertia if there is a strong enough kickback.

With all this in mind, we have to give it to the Husqvarna 440 for its wide range of handy features.

Husqvarna vs Stihl chainsaw: Price

(Image credit: Stihl/Husqvarna)

Price is a big factor to consider when considering chainsaws. Nick Greenway agrees, stating that: “When shopping for a new chainsaw, you should consider how much you want to spend. Both gas and electric chainsaws have a wide range of prices. As with any tool, you get what you pay for, and chainsaws are no exception.”

When it comes to the price tag, both the Stihl MS 211 and the Husqvarna 440 are very similar. The Husqvarna is the more expensive one upfront, coming in at $399.99 on both the Husqvarna site and Amazon. Stihl’s MS 211 is a little trickier to pin down as they tend to sell through approved dealers who mark the price individually. At Ace Hardware, the Stihl is currently priced at $339.99.

Getting a chainsaw is not just about the upfront costs - fuel and maintenance costs also play a role in how much a chainsaw will cost you. Husqvarna’s shop has various chainsaw fuels, lubricants, and oils available in a range of sizes and prices for your convenience. Husqvarna even lets you finance your 440 chainsaw over time if that is best for you.

Stihl also has a range of oil and lubricants in various sizes. The price can be tricky to pin down due to Stihl’s insistence on using verified dealers. However, some oils tend to be priced between $2.50 and $17.99 depending on the price. We recommend shopping around for fuel, gear, and lubricants from the verified seller list to find items in your budget.

Overall, we would suggest that Husqvarna is the better choice despite its higher upfront cost due to its convenience and ease of financing your purchase and getting parts. Stihl is still excellent and cheaper upfront but requires some shopping around to make any purchase.

Husqvarna vs Stihl chainsaw: Care and maintenance

Chainsaws need regular maintenance to stay in top shape. While most chainsaws have similarities in their care routines, each model will have little key differences that you need to bear in mind.

To make this easier, both models’ manuals lay out a maintenance schedule and details on what care to perform and when; this makes it a breeze to input into your calendar so that you do not forget. The 440 even goes a step beyond and has included multiple points of easy access and cleaning into its ergonomic design so you can perform these routines with ease.

Husqvarna vs Stihl chainsaw: Verdict

Husqvarna and Stihl are both famous producers of quality chainsaws that will help you get the job done. However, after considering the price, features, and performance of the 440 and MS 211, we think the Husqvarna 440 comes out on top.

This is not to say that you should not think about getting Stihl’s MS 211; there are plenty of jobs that the MS 211 is perfect for. It is just that the Husqvarna is perfect for beginners while the MS 211 is better for felling trees efficiently in domestic situations.

No matter which model you pick, it is vital to do your research and learn how to handle a chainsaw correctly before use. As Nick puts it: “Chainsaws can cause a lot of harm, especially if you're an inexperienced operator.” Make sure to read the instructions thoroughly and register your warranty before cutting to the wooden chase.

Half a watermelon forgotten at the back of the fridge stops being food quickly. The flesh turns grainy while the juice separates out, and the smell announces itself whenever the door opens. Into the trash it goes – several pounds of organic matter bound for landfill for no reason.

The garden has better uses for it, though none work the way people assume. Treating spoiled fruit as homemade plant food is sound enough as an instinct. A melon just isn't fertilizer and won't behave like one. What it offers is raw material, plus a side benefit for wildlife that rarely gets mentioned.

1. Turn Overripe Watermelon Into Natural Plant Food

Start with what a watermelon is made of. Roughly 92 percent is water, leaving a thin margin of sugars and fiber once that evaporates away. Drop a melon into a planting hole expecting a nutrient boost and the plant receives almost none of it – no nitrogen in a form roots can use, no phosphorus ready to take up.

Microbes have to get there first. Bacteria and fungi dismantle the flesh and rind into humus across several weeks, releasing minerals as they go. None of that is a knock against the melon. It's the same process running any compost heap. What comes out improves soil structure and moisture retention, with nutrients in forms roots can take up – exactly what raw melon fails to offer. You can do it yourself with this compost bin from Amazon.

How To Add Watermelon to Your Compost Pile

(Image credit: Kamila OConnell / Getty Images)

Chop it small first. A whole melon sits in a heap as a sealed unit, breaking down from the outside over months. Pieces cut to a few inches (8cm) across give the organisms far more surface to work on. Include the rind – tougher than the flesh and slower to go, but it composts fine.

Too much melon at once is where this goes wrong. Watermelon is a green in composting terms – wet and nitrogen-heavy, and a heap fed too much of it turns sour and airless. Every addition wants dry browns over it. Fallen leaves do the job, shredded cardboard too, at roughly two or three parts brown to one part melon.

Can You Bury Watermelon Straight in the Garden?

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Trench composting skips the heap altogether. Pick an unplanted spot and dig down at least 12 inches (30cm). The chopped melon goes in the bottom. Backfill until a solid 8 inches (20cm) of soil covers it. Worms and soil bacteria handle the rest underground, out of reach of anything with a nose. A Fiskars transplant spade from Walmart reaches that depth quickly enough that there's no reason to cut the job short.

Depth is doing all the work here. Bury the fruit shallowly and it fails outright – raccoons and rats turn up within days, flies not long after. Leave the spot a few weeks before planting into it as well, since material in the thick of decomposition ties up soil nitrogen temporarily and leaves early plantings hungry at the wrong moment.

Save a Slice for Butterflies and Moths

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Flowers aren't the only thing butterflies drink from. Red admirals (Vanessa atalanta) and commas (Polygonia comma) feed at rotting fruit quite happily, and some species seem to prefer it. Concentrated energy is part of the draw. Fermenting sugars also carry minerals and yeasts no blossom offers. Plenty of moths work the same way after dark – fruit-baiting is an old trick among the people who study them.

Late summer is when this counts. Nectar thins out as the flowering season winds down, right as butterflies building reserves for overwintering need it most. A slice of overripe watermelon fills that gap. Replacing anything is beyond it, though. Nectar-rich planting and host plants stay the foundation, and a fruit dish only makes sense in a garden that has both.

How to Make a Simple Watermelon Feeding Station

The setup asks almost nothing. One or two small slices on a shallow dish, somewhere flat and stable, is the whole of it. A terracotta plant saucer from Amazon suits the job because the low sides let butterflies land and reach the fruit without any climbing, and clay stays cooler than plastic under direct sun.

Keep portions modest. Two slices are easy to refresh and easy to rinse, while a plate piled high becomes a problem long before it gets finished. A splash of water stops the fruit drying to leather, and the damp seems to help the fermenting smell travel – which is how insects locate it at all.

Where to Place It, and When to Remove It

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Placement decides whether this stays charming or turns irritating. Fermenting fruit draws wasps and ants as readily as butterflies, so the dish belongs well away from doors and anywhere people sit. A sheltered corner beside a hedge works better anyway, out of the wind, with cover close by for the insects using it.

Swap the fruit out every couple of days rather than letting a dish run on indefinitely. Old melon slumps into slime and grows mold, and by then it stops drawing the visitors you wanted. Rinse the saucer between servings, since residue builds fast in the heat. If wasp numbers climb past comfortable, pull the dish for a stretch. The butterflies find it again once it returns.

Avoid These Overripe Watermelon Mistakes

Scale is the big one. A whole melon parked beside a tomato as a natural feed does nothing measurable for the plant and a great deal for the local rat population. The smell alone makes that corner unpleasant for weeks. Whatever goes into the ground goes in chopped and deep, and the rest belongs in the heap.

Seeds are the surprise waiting at the end. They come through a cool heap intact, so unless the pile properly heats, expect volunteer seedlings wherever that compost lands. Sap beetles (Nitidulidae) and fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster) gather around exposed fruit as well, and neither does real harm outdoors. Split the melon between its two jobs and none of this becomes trouble. A couple of slices go out for the butterflies, and the rest gets chopped into the heap or buried deep, quietly turning into next season's soil while nobody watches.

The cherries look fine one morning. But then, a couple of days later, there's a bare pit still clinging to the stem and half a dozen birds arguing in the branches over what's left. Birds don't nibble at fruit the way insects do. They arrive as a group, take the ripest fruit quickly, and move along to the next tree before you even notice.

Plenty of gardeners assume how to protect fruit trees from birds has to start with netting or a spray. But there’s an overlooked item already in your kitchen that works just as well. It’s just sitting in your kitchen drawer, only costs a couple of dollars to replace, and takes hardly any work to put up.

Find out which common kitchen product doubles as an eco-friendly and organic way to stop birds from eating all the fruit on your trees before you can.

Best Kitchen Product to Prevent Birds

You can use tin foil to deter common garden pests, like unwanted birds. It works as a visual and auditory deterrent that protects fruit trees from hungry winged visitors.

Sight runs the show for most birds. They feed and navigate visually, so a strip of tin foil shining in the sun throws bright, erratic flashes that read as movement where movement shouldn't be. This makes tin foil a good natural way to deter birds in the garden.

Their reaction to the tin foil is more of a reflex rather than reasoning. A bird approaching a branch gets a burst of glare at close range, which prevents it from landing. This makes the tree register as a place where something unpleasant lives and scares away the bird before it can land and eat your fruit.

Sound does its share of the work as well. Foil rattles and crackles at the slightest breeze. That noise combined with the flashing makes the whole display harder to dismiss and scarier to unwanted birds.

A shiny object hanging still doesn't have the same effect and birds figure that out quickly. Wind is the ingredient that turns foil into a deterrent, so a still day with no breeze to move the foil will always be the weak point of this method.

(Image credit: Grace Cary / Getty Images)How to Use Tin Foil to Stop Birds

Strips of tin foil should be about 2 inches (5 cm) wide and 12 to 18 inches (30-45 cm) long to do the job. Fold each one in half lengthwise so both faces are reflective, then twist it once before tying, which keeps it spinning and reflecting light. A roll of Reynolds Wrap heavy duty aluminum foil from Walmart holds up through weather that shreds the standard gauge foil within a week.

Hang the strips of tin foil at the ends of the branches where the fruit actually is, not tucked against the trunk where birds won't see them. Hanging roughly one strip every 2 to 3 feet (60-90 cm) around the outside of the tree canopy is a reasonable starting density. You can add a few more on the side facing open ground since that's the approach most birds use. Tie loosely with twine and leave plenty of slack. A strip that can't move is a strip that isn't working.

(Image credit: Detry26 / Getty Images)Move Foil Every Few Days

Birds are quick studies. Give them a stretch of a few days with foil that flashes and never actually does anything and they'll be landing right next to it and eating your fruit again soon. Habituation is what sinks this method for the gardeners who say it doesn't work. But there's an easy fix to this issue.

Simply move the strips every few days – take some down, add others, shift them to different branches – so the pattern never stays the same. Alternating foil with reflective bird scare ribbon from Amazon can double the effects.

Timing matters, too, for moving around the tin foil. Hang the foil before the fruit ripens and colors up because a bird that has already tasted what's in your tree is far harder to deter than one that never got a sample.

Hanging tin foil a week ahead of first blush is about right. Waiting until the damage shows up means fighting an established habit rather than preventing one and habits are hard to break.

(Image credit: Edwa / Shutterstock)Limitations to This Method

There are a few limitations to this method to know about before trying it. This deterrent works well for certain types of backyard birds, but not for others.

European starlings move in flocks large enough that the birds at the back barely notice what spooked the front. American robins get bold about fruit they've already claimed. For a small tree carrying a crop that matters, Vigoro bird block netting from Home Depot is the only thing that ends the issue outright.

There are two other cautions worth having in mind to keep your trees healthy as well. Never wrap foil tightly around a trunk or a limb, since it traps moisture against the bark and invites problems that outlast the birds. This is a common fruit tree mistake when using this method.

It's also important to gather up every strip of tin foil at the end of the season instead of letting the weather tear them loose because shredded foil ends up in bird nests, your garden, and your lawn mower.

Other Bird Deterrents to Try

Offo Bird Scare Reflective Device

If tin foil just can't cut it, try this highly-rated reflective deterrent device with great Amazon reviews.

MCRWETO Ultrasonic Bird Repellent Device

More than just birds eating your berries and fruit? Try this ultrasonic repellent that works on a wide range of critters.

Besmon Bird Scare Devices

These dangling silver bird scare devices can double as garden ornaments. They look beautiful to humans, but scare away birds.

Every garden has those plants that everyone talks about. The ones that show up in magazine spreads, Instagram posts, and “must-have” lists year after year. And while I understand why some plants become favorites (look, I’m just as guilty of falling for a beautiful allium) I think there are a few underrated perennials that deserve far more attention.

Don’t get me wrong; alliums are incredible. I love their perfectly round flower heads standing above the garden, and honestly, I think they can look even better once the flowers have faded and those dried seed heads are catching the light. They add structure, texture, and that slightly unreal, almost alien look that makes a garden feel like a designer was involved in the planting plans.

But there’s another perennial I’ve come to love even more for the way it performs with so little fuss. It gives me those same dramatic globes of color, brings in pollinators, handles challenging summer weather, and asks for very little in return. In short, it’s one of those plants that makes you wonder why everyone isn’t growing more of it (seriously folks, why?).

The Underrated Perennial I Love The Most

I hate to admit my ignorance, but I first discovered this underrated perennial completely by accident. I picked up a few plants (no flowers, just optimistic stems) on a whim at a neighbor’s charity plant sale. There was no looking at the labels; I was just doing my bit to help their fundraising efforts.

As such, I had no grand plan for these plants; I just liked the look of them and thought they were worth trying. That small impulse purchase turned out to be one of the best decisions I’ve made for my garden.

Also known as African lily, agapanthus is one of those perennials that quietly earns its place year after year. In summer, those tall stems rise above the foliage with clusters of rounded flowers that look like they’re floating above the garden.

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Mine? Mine produce beautiful white and purple globes that hover above the beds, creating exactly the kind of impact I love in a garden. They have height, movement, and a slightly exotic feel (read: that extra-terrestrial vibe I mentioned earlier) but they’re not difficult or demanding. They just... they just get on with the job of looking beautiful.

Honestly, one of my favorite things about agapanthus is how little attention it needs once established. It doesn’t require constant watering, it copes brilliantly with heat, and it keeps looking good through the kind of summer conditions that can leave more delicate plants struggling. I can count on one hand how many times I have tended to mine this year; the thick, strappy foliage has even stayed attractive in a steady run of very hot, very dry weather, and the flowers continue to provide that wonderful burst of summer color.

Need another reason to fall for this underrated perennial? Well, agapanthus is also a brilliant pollinator plant. Bees and butterflies are regular visitors when mine are in bloom, which adds another reason to love them. There’s something especially satisfying about planting something that looks beautiful while also giving wildlife a helping hand.

Shop Agapanthus:

LATROPIC Live Blue Agapanthus Plant

CZ Grain White Agapanthus

Daylily Nursery Yonder Blue Agapanthus

Agapanthus works beautifully in borders, but it’s also fantastic in containers. In fact, growing it in a pot can make it even easier to manage, especially in colder areas where you may want to protect it over winter (mine is in the border, but I am aware I am lucky enough to live in a slightly easier USDA planting zone than most).

So, while I’ll always have a soft spot for alliums, I think agapanthus deserves to share the spotlight. It delivers that same dramatic shape and summer presence but with a level of toughness and reliability that makes it feel almost effortless. And if they can look this good in my frying pan of a garden right now? Then you absolutely need to give them a go, stat!

With over 41,000 fires having burned more than 3.9 million acres across the United States so far this year, many folk are turning to the idea of firescaping their home gardens. Traditionally, we’ve planted thick borders of flowering shrubs and perennials around our houses. Beautiful? Yes. Flammable? Very. And there’s a new approach that is far more fire-resistant, and you still get flowers.

The US Fire Administration (USFA) recommends reducing combustible vegetation near your home to create a defensible space to slow or stop wildfires. It cites Zone 1 – the ground immediately around your home, up to 5 feet away – as the most critical area to reduce risk to the home during a wildfire. Have a think about this part of your yard and, if it's packed with woody shrubs and perennials that could fuel flames, it might be time you considered firescaping this area with the water-filled foliage of sedums instead.

You see – and I was so shocked when I discovered this – up to 90% of ignitions from wildfires are caused by embers, according to USFA. So, siting the water-filled, non-flammable leaves of sedums in the area immediately around your home makes good sense. And what do you know, sedums are one of the most low-maintenance plants on the planet, and they’re pretty as well as practical. Firescaping is a part of landscaping design we're expecting to see boom this summer as there's no telling how long this heatwave weather will last for, and sedums are such a smart and easy solution.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What is Sedum?

Sedums, commonly known as stonecrops, form a huge group of succulent plants with thick leaves and stems that store lots of water. They fall into two types: low-growing, spreading groundcover plants, and taller clumping varieties – and it’s those low growers we’re interested in here.

There are hundreds of sedums to choose from, with clusters of tiny, star-shaped flowers in white, yellow, pink and purple, typically in summer through fall, that pollinators adore. The foliage is just as attractive as the flowers, many with striking colors from lime green and burgundy to deep bronze. Spreading into a resilient mat, the foliage brings fabulous texture, too, and some varieties are evergreen, depending on your zone.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Why is Sedum Fire-Resistant?

Sedums evolved to flourish in semi-arid climates so their ability to store moisture means these plants can go months without rain. That high water content is also very helpful when it comes to resisting ignition and, planted en masse, can help to slow the spread of flames.

Their drought-tolerance plays a crucial part in their ability to resist fire, too, because stonecrops can thrive even through a hot, dry summer. Because sedums are groundcover plants that act as a living mulch, they lock moisture in the soil and keep it cool, too, further increasing their resilience. And that’s an important factor, because even the most fire-resistant plants become highly combustible in a drought-stricken, dried-out state.

Another factor that makes sedum so fire-resistant is that it lacks combustible oils and resins that many evergreen trees and fragranced shrubs contain.

While there’s no one plant that’s considered the most fire-resistant, because of variations in growing conditions across the US, sedum is right up there in most climates. And while there’s no standardized measure of plant flammability, because of its resilience as well as its ability to hold moisture, sedum is widely considered to be one of the most fire-resistant plants in America, and recommended by safety organizations and fire chiefs for fire-conscious landscaping.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Which Sedum is Best?

Low-growing sedums are better for fire resistance than taller sedums which have woodier stems. There are sedums for indoor as well as outdoor growing, as well as annual and perennial types, so do read the label or online description when shopping to ensure you're buying a hardy plant that last year after year in your zone. So the best sedum for you is the one that will naturally thrive year-round in your garden, because a happy plant will be full of moisture.

Also, choose what you love, because then you’re more likely to grow more of it! And all these sedums are super-easy to dig up, divide and replant to create free plants, so you can increase your firescaped area without spending a fortune.

It’s best to buy plants as you need to be super-patient to raise sedums from the dust-small seeds.

Best For Foliage Color

LIME GREEN

4-Pack Lemon Coral Sedum

Proven Winners Sedum ‘Lemon Coral’ is well known for its lime-green foliage that gives a great pop of color. Grows 3-10 inches tall and 14 inches wide in zones 7-11.

Red & Green

3 Red Carpet Starter Plants

Bronze-green Sedum spurium ‘Red Carpet’ foliage gets crimson tones as temperatures drop, forming a mat 3-6 inches high and 18 inches wide. Zones 3-9.

Deep red

3-Pack Dragon's Blood Sedum

Beginning green-to-bronze, Sedum spurium ‘Dragon’s Blood’ leaves deepen into rich red and burgundy tones. Zones 4-9; grows 4-6 inches high and spreads 12-18 inches.

Best For Flowers

Ruby red

Fuldaglut Sedum

While the red-bronze foliage is pretty enough, the ruby-red blooms of Sedum spurium ‘Fuldaglut’ steal the show. Zones 4-9; grows 2-4 inches high and 12-18 inches wide.

Bright yellow

Rock 'n Low Yellow Brick Road Sedum

With bright yellow star-shaped flowers from midsummer to fall, Proven Winners Sedum x ‘Yellow Brick Road’ grows 6-8 inches high and spreads 2 feet in zones 3-9.

Perfect pink

Sedum 'Blue Elf'

‘Blue Elf’ may be tiny, growing just 3 inches tall and spreading to 18 inches, but the ravishing pink flowers against pewter foliage are a big treat. Zones 4-9.

Best For Foliage Texture

Shapely leaves

Sedum Steel the Show

These silvery blue-green leaves turn a rosy pink in fall, when shell-pink flowers join the show. Zones 3-8; grows 8 inches tall and 16 inches wide.

Mixed varieties

Sedum Groundcover Mat

Offering great value for money, this 10-inch x 20-inch mat of different sedum varieties brings a wealth of texture in zones 3-9.

Looks like moss

Angelina Sedum

The golden green foliage of Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’ quickly spreads to form an 8-inch-high mat 2-3 feet wide, that’s evergreen in zones 3-9.

How to Plant Sedum to Maximise Fire Resistance

All sedums need to flourish is well-draining soil and at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. Happily, creating those well-drained conditions marry well with a non-combustible environment. Mix horticultural grit or sand into your soil if the drainage needs improving, and use pea gravel rather than bark as a mulch, and growing sedums couldn't be simpler.

Sedums are so drought-tolerant, you can even create a fully firescaped Zone 1 with paving or gravel punctuated with planting pockets of potting soil. This creates the ultimate low-maintenance, fire-resistant foundation planting. For a modern look, consider adding angular metal edging to contain the spreading sedums in neat geometric shapes.

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Another creative idea is to pair sedum with gravel and rocks and pebbles of different sizes to create a dry river.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It’s a smart move to use these succulent plants around highly combustible garden areas, too, such as decking and wooden summerhouses. Sedum can also be used to create living roofs, further helping to slow fire, and forms great groundcover to suppress weeds in any well-drained border.

To maximise fire resistance, clear any dead material – the thatch – from plants every spring. Keep weed free and, while sedum is one of the most drought-tolerant plants you can buy and survives on minimal water, it’s wise to irrigate occasionally through very dry periods in peak fire season to keep those leaves plump with moisture.

You’ll also need to keep your sedum plants watered to begin with, while they grow roots deep enough into the ground to source their own moisture supply.

Some plants are still burning through nutrients in midsummer and will keep asking for more. Others have already turned toward dormancy or next year's buds, and a July feeding pushes them into growth that winter will destroy.

Fertilizing in July is where a lot of gardens quietly go wrong. The impulse is to keep feeding everything, since the plants are big and growing hard and it seems like the season is at full tilt. Many different plants want it. Many others are already shifting gears, moving toward seed set or dormancy or hardening off wood for winter, and pushing nitrogen at them now works against what they're trying to do.

The split comes down to what a plant is doing right now. Choosing plant fertilizer matters less than choosing the right moment for it. Anything still producing flowers or fruit is burning through nutrients and will keep asking for more. Anything winding down, storing reserves, or setting next year's buds needs to be left alone, because late nitrogen produces soft growth that frost will find in October.

6 Plants to Keep Feeding in July

These six are still working, and July feeding keeps them at it. Fertilizer types differ between them more than you would figure, so the formula matters as much as the schedule.

1. Tomatoes

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Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), grown as annuals across USDA zones 3-11, run on a heavy diet right through the season. Once fruit has set, though, the formula should shift away from nitrogen — too much and the plant builds foliage while the fruit sits there unchanged.

A feed with a lower first number and more phosphorus and potassium is the move, every two or three weeks. This Fruit and Bloom Booster from Farmer’s Secret on Amazon will do the trick, and this calcium from Home Depot matters here because a shortage of calcium shows up as blossom end rot.

2. Peppers

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Whatever works on the tomatoes works here. Peppers (Capsicum annuum) run the same zones, 4-11 as annuals, and they keep throwing flowers and setting fruit until frost puts an end to it.

Feed every few weeks, low nitrogen again. Overdo the nitrogen and what you get is a big handsome dark green bush that produces almost nothing — the sort of thing you figure out in September, too late to fix.

3. Sweet Corn

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Here the low-nitrogen rule goes out the window. Corn (Zea mays) eats nitrogen from the day it germinates until the ears fill, grown as an annual anywhere in zones 3-11. Side-dress it with this Gardenera Liquid Power Corn Fertilizer from Walmart once the plants hit knee height, then again as the tassels push out. Watch the bottom leaves for pale color and yellowing that runs up along the midrib, which is the plant telling you it ran short a while back.

4. Roses

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Roses (Rosa spp.), hardy in zones 3-9 depending on the type, bloom in flushes and drain themselves doing it. A balanced feed after each flush keeps the next one coming. Jobe's Organics Granular Rose Fertilizer from Amazon is a good organic option, so it won't scorch roots in July heat. There is one deadline, though. Stop feeding roughly six to eight weeks ahead of your first expected frost. Anything later and the plant answers with tender new canes, right as the weather turns on them.

5. Container Annuals

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Container annuals like petunias (Petunia spp.), perennial only in zones 9-11 and treated as annuals everywhere colder, live on borrowed nutrition. Every watering flushes some out the drainage holes, and by July whatever was mixed into the potting soil in May is long gone. A dilute liquid feed every week or two replaces it. Miracle-Gro's water-soluble all-purpose food from Walmart mixes into a watering can and covers the whole balcony in one pass.

6. Tropical Hibiscus

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Outside zones 9-11 this one lives in a pot, hauled in every fall. Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) will bloom right through the warm months if it's fed, but it's fussy about what. Potassium, yes. Phosphorus it would rather have less of, which means the average bloom-booster formula can set the plant back instead of pushing it.

Something made for hibiscus like this Nelson Plant Food - NutriStar Hibiscus Fertilizer from Amazon, lightly, every couple of weeks, and keep it up until the plant comes indoors.

3 Plants to Stop Fertilizing Now

These three have moved on to something else, and continuing to feed them does real harm. None of it shows up immediately, which is part of why the mistake keeps getting made.

1. Bigleaf Hydrangea

(Image credit: Svetlana Zhukova / Shutterstock)

Next spring's flowers are being decided right now. Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) sets those buds in late summer, on wood that has to firm up first, and it manages this across zones 5-9 without help.

Feed it nitrogen in July and it does the opposite — more soft growth, which is still soft when the cold arrives and dies back on you. Feeding should have wrapped up by early summer. Water and mulch is what it wants now.

2. Peonies

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Peonies (Paeonia lactiflora), zones 3-8, finished flowering weeks ago and are now doing the less apparent part of the job — photosynthesizing to stock their roots for next spring. Fertilizer at this stage encourages floppy foliage and can reduce the following year's bud count. A single feeding after bloom is all they wanted, and that window closed in June. Cutting the foliage back now would compound it, since those leaves are the whole engine. Let your peonies rest and charge up for next year.

3. Garlic

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

By July, garlic is already committed. Planted back in fall, hardy through zones 3-9, Allium sativum is either swelling its bulbs or sitting there ready to pull. Give it nitrogen at this point and you tell it to make leaves, exactly when everything ought to be going underground, and the heads that come out of that don't keep well in storage. Feeding ends when the scapes appear. After that, it’s just water, then tapering off before harvest.

Clematis plants are serious climbers. Indeed, they might be the showiest of climbers. This rapid-growing, vigorous vine climbs up trellises, pergolas and fences, up to 30 feet (10m) high, using twisting leaf petioles and twining growth. If your garden includes a climbing clematis, you’ll know that it helps to create an enchanting three-dimensional flowering space. So the last thing you’ll want to do is compromise the vitality of your climbers – which is why you need to check a few things now.

Now, as long as you have planted yours in an appropriate site, clematis care is not all that complicated. These plants prefer to have their head in the sun and feet in the shade, as the saying goes. And for most of spring and early summer, this can happen without too much fuss. But as the summer weather heats up this month, all vines (including clematis) need targeted attention to keep them growing happily.

Taking 20 minutes this week to attend to your Group 2 and Group 3 clematis vines is not just about keeping up appearances. The little things you do now will directly determine how long those velvety petals can hold on during midsummer heat spikes, the intensity of their colors, the size and health of the blooms, and the shape and mass of their growth. Here’s how to ensure that your queen of climbers continues to be the star of your summer show.

How to Help Your Clematis in July

The heat in July can sometimes feel closer to oppressive than delightful. Our favorite plants also feel the heat, and, unlike us, they can’t escape to the cool of the shade. Clematis, in particular, requires a full sun location to thrive, which means it’s stuck in the heat without so much as sunglasses. So it’s counting on you to ride to the rescue by tackling these key tasks in July. First, make sure you know your vine's specific pruning group or class, as this is the key to unlocking its full blooming potential.

Group 1 spring-bloomers like Clematis montana and C. alpina have finished their flowering and are quietly settling into vegetative growth. July belongs to Group 2 clems (early summer flowerers like Nelly Moser) and Group 3 (late summer bloomers like Jackmanii and C. viticella). For Group 2 clematis types, what you do in July can determine whether you see a secondary flush in late summer. For Group 3, this is peak performance season, which relies on regular care and support.

(Image credit: JohnGollop / Getty Images)

The nature and degree of your clematis care in July will depend on your USDA hardiness zone and growing setup. In warmer regions (zones 7-9), moisture retention and root cooling are top priority. In northern zones (zones 4-6), long daylight hours will drive rapid stem elongation that requires structural checks. Container-grown clematis suffer heat stress faster than ground-planted vines. Soil temperatures can spike rapidly, drying out delicate roots within a single afternoon.

Whether you’re growing in the ground or in a container, be sure to give your soil a quick onceover before getting stuck into these clematis steps. Check soil moisture levels with a digital probe, or by dipping your finger two inches into the root zone. A moisture probe like the XLUX Moisture Meter Probe, available from Amazon, can help you avoid piling undue stress onto delicate roots. Once you have a basic read on these levels, get cracking with these simple checks for happy clems in summer.

1. Give Your Clematis Regular Water

(Image credit: Forisana / Getty Images)

Vines dry out faster than rounded shrubs, since they can’t rely on their own shade. Think of a hydrangea shrub: the big leaves cast shade on the interior of the plants, keeping it cooler. A clematis doesn’t have that luxury. Since its roots thrive in moist soil, regular watering is a must. In July, you’ll want to give vines a deep watering. Do this early in the morning, to maximize absorption and reduce evaporation.

Clematis feeder roots reside in the top 12-18 inches (30-46 cm) of soil, making them vulnerable to drying out during heatwaves. For Group 3 varieties, water stress can cause buds to crisp up and drop before opening. To simplify the process of regular watering, you can use a soaker hose or some kind of drip irrigation. The Gilmour Flat Soaker Hose from Amazon can deliver deep moisture without splashing the foliage.

Direct your hose or drip line at least 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) from the main stem base. Soaking the crown directly can invite the risk of clematis wilt. Water deeply at the base 2-3 times a week. Try not to neglect this vital task, or else your clem will likely drop her lower leaves, and prematurely terminate flower production.

2. Protect Clematis Roots with Mulch

(Image credit: larisa Stefanjuk / Shutterstock)

Those clematis roots are the key to keeping your plant thriving. Watering deeply is important, but you can also lock in that moisture with a good mulching. Place a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the vine to protect the roots from extreme heat. Chopped bark or compost works well for this task.

A team favorite for organic root protection is Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon, which protects from heat spikes, and locks in moisture. It also keeps down weeds that might steal nutrients or water from the vine. When mulching Group 2 and Group 3 clematis, leave a 2-inch (5 cm) gap around the main stems. Don't pile mulch up against stems, as this can trap moisture and encourage collar rot.

(Image credit: Albina Yalunina / Getty Images)

As an alternative to mulching, you could add some groundcover plants around the base of your clematis. Shorter perennials can also provide natural shade and keep soil cool. For container-grown clems, consider shallow-rooted companions like hardy geranium (Rozanne) or lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis) to shade soil organically.

Failing to mulch or provide some groundcover during midsummer forces the plant into survival mode when heat strikes, stalling stem growth and causing flowers to shrink drastically. So don’t neglect this vital step: a protected root zone preserves moisture and nutrients and supports healthy growth through to the end of summer.

3. Feed Your Clematis Vine

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You need to get the timing right with feeding. You don’t want to stress the clematis by fertilizing the plant during a heatwave. But clematis plants do need fertilizer every few weeks to keep up their vigorous blooms. So keep an eye on the weather. When a day or two of cooler weather is predicted, apply a phosphorus-rich liquid fertilizer. Follow up by watering well, try to do this every 2-4 weeks.

Avoid high-nitrogen lawn or general fertilizers. High nitrogen fuels leafy green stems at the expense of flower buds and results in soft foliage that attracts aphids. Instead, focus on potassium (potash) and phosphorus blends similar to a tomato or rose feed. For low-maintenance feeding, gently add a little granular feed, like Jobe’s Organics Rose & Flower Granular Fertilizer, available from Walmart, to the topsoil.

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A little seaweed can also help. Feeding with Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon, gives a gentle potassium boost as well as other essential minerals to drive flower production. Group 2 clematis benefit from a liquid feed immediately after their first main flush ends. This fuels the stem growth needed for their second late-summer show. Group 3 clematis plants need bi-weekly potassium feeds through July to sustain their massive bloom displays.

Always water your plant with plain water an hour before applying liquid fertilizer to prevent root burn. And if you’re experiencing intense heat, hold off on feeding until temperatures drop. Stressed plants can’t process nutrients well.

4. Give Your Clematis a Haircut

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The heat of summer is never a wonderful time to prune, but consider giving your vine a clip here or there in July. If you have a reblooming clematis (Group 2), deadhead the wilted blossoms. Use clean, sterilized pruners and snip off the old flower heads above the first pair of live leaves or buds. If your clematis has completed its blooming, now is a good time to give the vine a light trim. Take out the dead wood and shape the vine. But avoid anything that feels like heavy pruning.

If you don’t already have a pair of gardening scissors or snips, Fiskars Micro-Tip Non-Stick Pruning Snips from Amazon help you to slice in fiddly spaces without harming plant tissue. For a sturdier grip on older stems, the Corona ComfortGEL Bypass Pruners from Lowe’s are comfortable and great for light shaping.

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Left untouched, spent clematis flowers spend significant energy forming decorative, feathery seed heads. By snipping off faded blooms, you redirect that energy back into shoot development and bud formation. It is key for Group 2 plants such as Nelly Moser, Miss Bateman, or Niobe clems. Do this now, and fresh shoots will emerge in a few weeks, bearing a second wave of blooms by late August or September.

Remember, Group 1 clematis plants set their flower buds for next spring during late summer. So any heavy pruning performed after July will cut off next spring's flower display. When cutting, also remember to wipe blades before and after use, even for light trims. Use isopropyl or rubbing alcohol to avoid the risk of spreading pathogens.

5. Control New Clematis Shoots

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Clematis vines are well known for having growth spurts in summer, and all those vigorous new shoots need to be tied in and supported. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a tangled mess of vine. In July, Group 3 clematis can put on several inches of growth in a single day. If left unguided, searching stems will wrap around each other, forming a dense, tangled birds' nest of growth. This reduces light penetration and airflow, increasing the risk of fungal diseases.

Check vines every week in July for loose shoots, and fasten straggly or wayward shoots. Jute twine, like the Nutscene Heritage Green Jute Twine from Amazon, is a gentle way to keep growth in check and won’t bite into the stem. Tie the stems loosely in the direction you want them to grow. Try figure-of-8 loops to allow the stems to grow without restraint. Consistent training creates an evenly distributed canopy, allowing for the best sun exposure and resulting in a wall of flowers from top to bottom.

Shop Clematis Essentials

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By the time July rolls in, clematis groups 2 and 3 are working in overdrive, either opening their main flush of summer blooms or gearing up for a secondary late-season show. You don't need a shed full of gadgets to keep them thriving – just a few well-selected tools and organic boosters will do the trick and keep your favorite climber growing at its best. A well-placed feed, precise deadheading, and a cool root zone are the secrets to prolonging those velvety blooms well into fall. Here are the simple, high-impact essentials to keep your clems lush and lovely.

Plant Care Trio

Potassium Boost

Neptune's Harvest Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer

Groups 2 and 3 clematis are heavy feeders in summer. While nitrogen feeds encourage green growth, this organic fish and kelp blend provides a gentle, potassium-rich boost for blooms. Dilute it into your watering can every fortnight to extend the bloom cycle on midsummer stars like Jackmanii or Etoile Violette.

Clem Cooling

Back to the Roots Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch

Clematis love their heads in the sun and feet in the shade. High temperatures can bake their shallow roots, causing heat stress and foliage crisping. Spreading a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of dye-free organic wood mulch insulates the root zone, locks in soil moisture, and helps to suppress competing weeds.

Gentle Support

Nancy Nikko Nutscene Heritage Green Jute Garden Twine

July brings rapid growth, but clems often need a bit of guidance to climb smoothly. Coarse plastic ties can snap tender stems, but this biodegradable jute twine offers a soft, supportive grip that blends naturally into the foliage. It gives you a secure and gentle way to train shoots up your trellis or obelisk.

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