Organic Gardening News

It's a chore many of us have to do, whether we delay it or we love making our yard look pristine with mowed lines in the grass. I'm personally not the biggest fan of mowing my lawn and tend to put off the task in comparison to other work I need to do in the yard – so if you're like this, you're not alone!

But thinking about this had me wondering, how often does a person truly need to mow their lawn for it to look good and be healthy? Is it something that varies based on area, climate, or season?

I decided to ask an assortment of lawn care and landscaping pros about it so you will know exactly how often to mow your lawn. In fact, you may actually be cutting the grass too much! Here's what the pros have to say.

How Often Should You Mow Your Lawn?

In an ideal world, there would be a simple answer to this question, but everyone's lawn is different. However, the answer the pros gave me is still an easy enough piece of advice to follow.

Gene Caballero, co-founder of GreenPal and long-time landscaper, explained to me that the frequency a person mows their lawn should follow the growth rate of their grass, which tends to be impacted by changing seasons.

He said, "The correct mowing schedule depends on the actual growth rate and not on the calendar. For instance during the peak season, homeowners often mow about once a week. Then in the slower season, some may need to shift to every two weeks."

This is good advice to follow. Though, if you know your grass tends to grow more slowly, consider altering your weekly mow to every other week instead. Also, modify how high you cut the grass depending on the season.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What Does Mowing Too Much or Too Little Do?

If you mow your lawn too much when it's already short, you're more likely to have dry grass that develops yellow patches in the warm weather.

Don Chouinard, a former contractor and lawn care expert, as well as a leader at Irrigreen explains, "Frequent short mowing encourages shallow roots. The grass keeps its energy near the surface instead of pushing roots down, and shallow-rooted turf dries out fast in heat and recovers poorly from drought."

A lawn that is constantly being cut also requires more care and water and can grow more slowly, because it needs to use up all its energy resources to heal from the constant chopping.

If you mow your lawn too little you're also more likely to cause damage to the grass – and your lawn mower. Long grass being suddenly pulled out of the ground is a shock to the lawn, and it may result in blades being tugged out by the root instead of cleanly chopped.

(Image credit: Alamy)Common Signs It's Time to Mow

Investing in a measuring stick, like this grass gauge from Amazon, tells you how tall your grass is. Knowing that is a simple way to know when it's time to mow. You can try to eyeball it and just look at the grass itself. But a tool like this provides a specific measurement, which is a better accountability partner to encourage you to mow when needed.

Brian Feldman of TruGreen also recommends following what's known as the "one-third rule," which he defines this way, "Your mowing frequency should guide you to cut no more than one-third of the grass blade in a single session."

This will ensure that your summer lawn won't be damaged by a large cut. If your lawn is already on the shorter side, you'll be able to gauge more quickly if there's even a third of the lawn's blades that need mowing.

If you're hosting lots of barbecues and making the most out of the sunny weather in your area, it's important to remember that the weight of garden furniture and increased foot traffic can impact your lawn as well. The grass in high-traffic areas might not grow in the same way as in areas of your yard that are more left alone, making it harder to know when or where to mow.

You can remedy this by hosting in different parts of your yard, aerating your lawn, or considering installing a foot path that leads to areas you often visit so the grass won't be repeatedly walked on.

Shop Lawn Mowing Essentials

Uptthow Grass Gauge

This simple grass gauge inserts into your lawn's soil so you can tell at a glance whether your grass could benefit from a good mow.

Casusen Lawn Aerator Shoes

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Worx String Trimmer & Lawn Edger

A lawn edger like this one will make getting into the nooks, crannies, and corners of your lawn a breeze. It really helps to make things look neat and tidy.

For some reason, I regularly “forget” that I can propagate more than a few plants from cuttings in summer. Then July arrives, and I have to look up the list of plants. It’s particularly odd since I grow (and love!) most of the plants that are top candidates for rooting from cuttings in July.

What are the best bets in July if you want to root plants from cuttings? It’s the best time to take softwood and semi-ripe cuttings – cuttings taken from the current year’s growth – of some of my very favorite plants, including herbs, shrubs, climbers, and perennials. Grab your favorite set of pruners (our editors are particularly fond of the affordable and sturdy Fiskars bypass pruners from Amazon) and get to work before July ends.

Ready, set, let’s propagate!

Take Cuttings From These 6 Plants in July

Taking summer cuttings is particularly easy because you don’t have to dig around to find a good branch to cut. You just snip off the top few inches of new growth from plants. Yes, you’ll need to clip off the bottom few leaves of each cutting, but that’s it. Then just push the cut end of each one into a small pot of moist potting soil.

1. Rosemary

(Image credit: ARTFULLY PHOTOGRAPHER / Shutterstock)

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) can be grown year-round in USDA hardiness zones 8-11, but can be grown indoors during colder months. This aromatic herb is always a popular addition to herb gardens given its use in cooking and its amazing, indigo blue flowers that appeal to pollinators. So no bi surprise that folks may want to start up a few additional plants.

Taking cuttings to propagate rosemary is easy. Just look for flexible, green tips of stems and snip off cuttings some 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) long. Remove the leaves from the lower half, then carefully remove the outer layer of tissue on the bottom inch (2.5 cm) with a sharp garden knife. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, which can be found at Amazon, and pop into a small pot filled with well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist but not soaking wet. Expect roots within a month.

2. Hydrangeas

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Hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) are the work horses of my flower garden, creating large, rounded bushes full of large, bright flower heads in summer. Double or triple your pleasure by propagating your favorite hydrangeas in July. They thrive in USDA zones 3-9.

Whatever hydrangea variety you grow (I grow smooth, panicle, and mophead), you can take cuttings in July. Snip off healthy, flexible, non-flowering shoots that have grown this year. Make the cuttings 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) long, then remove the lowest leaves. Many recommend cutting the remaining leaves in half before “planting” the cuttings in pots filled with well-draining potting mix. Keep the soil moist but not soaking wet. New roots should form in a few weeks.

3. Lavender

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With its glorious fragrance, silver-green foliage, and purple blooms, lavender (Lavandula spp.) has many fans. This versatile herb might be in your herb garden or in your flower beds, but regardless of whether or not you use lavender for cooking, you can root cuttings and propagate new lavender plants in July. Summer is a good time for propagating lavender while it is actively growing.

Take cuttings from healthy stems that grew this year. Pick non-flowering stems that have grown this year and clip off 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) cuttings. Remove the lower leaves, dip the bottom in rooting hormone, and place the cuttings in pots filled with well-draining soil or compost. Keep the soil moist but not soaking wet. Expect roots in a month.

4. Fuchsia

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Fuchsias (Fuchsia spp.) are classic, colorful and reliable flowering plants and that has made them popular for centuries. With bold, bell-shaped flowers in pink, purple, red and white, fuchsias put on a show in summer.

Have one fuchsia? You’ll definitely want a few more. Fortunately, fuchsias are among the easiest plants to grow from cuttings and summer is the perfect time to act. Take 6 inch (15cm) cuttings from new growth that is healthy and full of leaves. Remove all leaves from each cutting other than the top two. Dip the cut ends in rooting hormone, then stick them into pots filled with well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist but not soaking wet. You should see roots appear in a month.

5. Annual Geraniums

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Now, annual geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) are not really annuals. They are hardy in USDA zones 9-12 (which includes my home in San Francisco), but are grown in cooler zones as annuals. Mine offer beautiful red flowers all summer and fall. They too are plants that tend to spread, but you can also “make” new plants by taking and rooting geranium cuttings in July.

Take firm, green shoots without any flowers some 4-6 inches (10-15cm) long. Remove leaves on the bottom half and push the cut ends into well-draining potting soil. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Look for roots in 3-4 weeks.

6. Sage

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Was there ever a plant that grows more joyfully than sage (Salvia spp.)? These perennials shoot up so readily into long-lasting flower spikes and spread so merrily that they always look to me as if they are singing. They have a lovely fragrance and bright petals too, yet are tough as nails, drought-tolerant and low-maintenance.

Salvias do tend to spread, but if you want more plants to offer neighbors, July is the time to take and root cuttings from your sage plants. These guys are so eager to grow that potting soil is not necessary. Take 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) cuttings from healthy, non-flowering stems, clip off the lower leaves, then pop the cuttings in water. Keep the soil moist but not soaking wet. Roots appear in about four weeks.

If your summer containers are anything like mine, there will be a few that already look like they’ve done their time and seem ready to curl up in the heat. Summer is a weird season: it seems to take forever to arrive, but when it does, it can feel like everything happens in a few days, only for key plants to lose their joyful tones almost as soon as the colors finally pop. If your pots and planters are looking a little crispy, don’t fret. You don’t have to spend ages giving your containers a summer makeover.

The beauty of this timely summer refresh is that it involves key planting choices that adapt and establish quickly in these intense yet changeable summer weeks. These gorgeous container ideas don’t require loads of ongoing care, and they flourish in spots where early-season tubs may have faltered and faded. So don’t spend your precious outdoors time staring at drab, weary containers. There’s plenty of summer left to enjoy, and these zingy superheroes can carry you all the way into fall.

Best of all, they hit their stride quickly and keep going, maintaining their richness and intensity where others bolt or bleach. Plant these container champs as nursery starts or plug plants, and you cut out weeks of waiting. Whether you’re after vibrant blooms or high contrast foliage, these favorite summer pick-me-ups deliver in abundance. And as a bonus, they also keep local pollinators happy. So make some room for prolific, saturated color that lasts, courtesy of some special drought-tolerant dazzlers.

Plant These Container Superheroes

In sweltering midsummer weeks, container garden planting requires a different approach to early spring labors. Fresh root systems need a little initial care so they don’t fall victim to transplant shock, and even the most colorful plants need to be matched to the right garden spot. If you are reusing tubs, you’ll also need to check for dry, spent soil. To ensure these drought tolerant perennials and annuals thrive right out of the gate, use a diagnostic tool like the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon to check your existing potting mix isn't depleted, overheated, or compacted.

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Where it does feel spent, it’s best to breathe some new life into your potting medium. Don’t chance it and stuff a new plant into old, compressed soil. Even superheroes deserve a little treat. Ideally, you need pots that offer a coarse environment where fresh roots can anchor fast. Scoop out the top few inches of old soil and clear away any decaying roots or debris from faded annuals. Summer watering can cause some standard potting mixes to compact like cement, so blend a decent scoop of perlite or some coarse sand like Hoffman Western Desert Sand for Potting from Walmart into upper container layers to help with drainage.

Another way to improve drainage ahead of this second wave of color is to prime the base of your pots. If a large container sits flat against a hot wooden deck or a humid stone patio, the drainage holes can trap stale water inside and cook plant roots. To maximize airflow, slide in some pot toes, like sturdy Kigeli Resin Pot Feet from Amazon. It’s a simple way to keep pots healthy and keep these superheroes happy. Then you’re ready to welcome the stars of the show!

1. Lantana

(Image credit: Barbara Ash / Alamy)

For neon zinginess that keeps glowing, lantana (L. camara) thrives where lesser plants crumble. This rugged bloomer is often used as a select spiller, but fills a space well as a specimen, with vibrant clusters of color. Treated as a fast-growing annual in zones 3-8 and a tough perennial in zones 9-11, this neon queen pumps out lush pops of color right up until the first frosts. Container soil temperatures can get 10°F (5.6°C) hotter than garden beds, causing sensitive flowers to wilt. Lantana shrugs off these issues thanks to its sandpapery leaves, which prevent moisture loss.

Choose compact, mounding midget varieties like Bandana, Little Lucky, or the 'Luscious Series, which only reach 12 inches (30 cm). For a buttery gold beauty, buy 'New Gold' Lantana from Fast Growing Trees as potted starts. In terms of ongoing care, just avoid overwatering and allow the potting mix to dry out slightly between deep soakings. While lantana loves lean living, a tiny sprinkle of Dr. Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Walmart mixed into the potting mix at planting time give nursery roots a gentle nutrient lift without burning. Then just sit back and enjoy the swallowtail butterflies, hummingbird moths, and lantana-loving bees.

2. Coleus

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Coleus (C. scutellarioides) is the ultimate superhero for instant container color, because you don’t have to wait for flowers to open. Its fiery visual foliage pops from late spring all the way until first frost, delivering dense, velvety volume that fills a tub in no time. Honestly, I’ve grown coleus in containers that can take on a shrub-like mass that definitely turns heads with little encouragement. Sun-tolerant stars include the Main Street Series, compact Wizard, or dazzling Inferno. Try Coleus ‘Dipt in Wine’ from Amazon as starter plants for high-contrast burgundy and bright chartreuse. Grow as an annual in zones 3-9, though it keeps going in zones 10-11.

What makes coleus a true superpower is its ability to provide uninterrupted color without requiring a drop of flower-building energy. However, it has thin, fleshy stems, so it is the thirstiest on my list. If a container dries out completely, coleus will shed its lower foliage. So skip clay pots and go for glazed ceramic or plastic, and water frequently as temperatures spike. Misting the foliage weekly with a little Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart can also protect against mildew and leaf drop. Pinching off the fuzzy flower spikes will keep fresh foliage at its zingy best, though it’s good to keep a couple of blooms for hummers and bumbles.

3. Salvia

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Not everyone goes for hot colors in the heat, I get that. So if you‘re looking to ramp up the cool notes in the summer heat, roll out some potted salvia for instant, lush structure and refreshing dynamics. Compact salvia varieties like S. nemorosa offer an elegant palette of cobalts, electric blues, and velvety plums that keep their cool well into high summer and beyond. Treat them as fast-growing, non-stop annuals in zones 3-8, and perennials in zones 9-11. Their dense, dramatic spires double as a nectar bar that delights local bumbles, migrating monarchs and visiting hummers.

While giant varieties like S. guaranitica can outgrow a pot, modern bred cultivars are tailor-made for tight root zones. Alongside violet temptress 'Amistad', you can enjoy the compact Miracle Series (such as 'Blue Marvel') or the Sensation Series for enduring color that keeps its shape, around 12-20 inches (30-50 cm). Try airy, compact Sky Blue Marvel Salvias from Fast Growing Trees. Just make sure your pot has a large drainage hole, and add a fortnightly splash of Neptune's Harvest Organic Fish & Seaweed Formula from Amazon for continuous cool-toned splendor.

4. Coneflowers

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If you don’t love coneflowers, you might be dead: there, I’ve said it. Coneflowers (Echinacea spp.) are exceptionally hardy perennials (in zones 3-9) and bring raw, rugged vibrancy to any space, from mass planter drifts to modest terracotta pots. They are uniquely suited to pots and will happily overwinter in cold container soil to return year after year. Just keep the root ball well watered in the first fortnight, and add a bit of bonemeal, such as Down To Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal from Lowe's, into the planting hole to encourage resilient root growth.

Choose compact, dwarf coneflower varieties for the longest-serving heroes. I will stubbornly grow the occasional towering echinacea, like the lovely 3ft (90cm) Green Twister. But there are gorgeous stout options, like Sombrero or PowWow, which settle at 12-20 inches (30-50 cm). These substantial varieties produce thick, stocky flower stems that stand proud without staking. Try Hirt’s Gardens Sombrero Lemon Yellow Coneflower Plants from Walmart for sunshine-rich vibrancy. Your pollen-rich cones will draw in a flurry of native bees and swallowtail butterflies, while the late seed heads will delight local goldfinches.

5. Zinnias

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Yes, zinnias! These triumphant mega-bloomers (Z. elegans) are a revelation for container gardeners who crave the intense folds of popular potted dahlias without any fuss. While dahlia tubers can rot easily and require continuous feeding, these annual superstars throw everything into one memorable and generous season – and they really can flourish in pots. Just remember to water zinnias at the base, and blend a handful of Worm Bliss Premium Earthworm Castings from Amazon directly into the top layer of your container's potting medium. This will enhance your pot's water-holding capacity and will help make those late-summer petals pop.

What makes zinnias a perfect long-flowering annual for containers is their love of hot, dry soil conditions. Thanks to their desert heritage, they keep producing crisp flower heads long after many other annuals are packing up for the season. Try compact varieties such as Dreamland and Magellan, or disease-resistant Profusion, which reaches 10-14 inches (25-36 cm). That said, you can grow taller zinnias like feisty California Giant if you pinch them back at the main stem tips. This restricts their height, forcing the plants to bush out laterally. Buy California Giant Zinnia Mix Plants from Walmart for the ultimate summer refresh you’ll still be admiring come fall.

Container Care for Summer

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As promised, you don’t have to spend loads of time pampering these container heroes. Just a few little attentions here and there will keep the flower show epic, lovely and enduring. One big thing to factor in is some deadheading. For your zinnias and coneflowers, follow the stem down to the next node, where you’ll see tiny green leaves emerging, and snip right above them. Try to do this once a week with a trusty pair of shears, scissors or snips. I’m a big fan of Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears from Amazon to slice through pot-based stems without bruising the foliage.

By late August, lantana’s trailing stems might start looking a little sparse near the root crown. Snip back the tips of the longest branches by a couple of inches (5cm). This quick pinch once a month in late summer forces your neon queen to shoot out new side stems, keeping your container display packed with fresh, bushy color.

Because containers require daily watering during heat waves, vital nutrients can leach out. To prevent salvia spikes shrinking or your coleus losing its saturation, give your pots a deep water flush in the morning once a fortnight to wash away stale salts. Follow it up the next evening with a little liquid organic feed to replenish your potted color champs. And that’s all it takes to keep these heroes going strong.

Shop Summer Container Heroes

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

Creating a high-impact, long-lasting container garden doesn’t require hours toiling during precious summer weekends. These tough, drought-tolerant container plants handle midseason heat with effortless grace. They root fast, and keep pumping out glorious hues to charm local pollinators as well as visitors. So, grab these heroes for a lush, saturated container summer makeover that will last well into fall.

Golden Spiller

Fast-Growing-Trees.com New Gold Lantana

This sun-loving cultivar is virtually bulletproof for elevated patio pots and hanging baskets. These brilliant, buttery-yellow flower clusters won’t fade under baking UV rays. Lantana stays compact and cascades elegantly over the edges of planters, for a lively, full look that holds its own for weeks and won’t require constant pruning.

Dynamic Dual

Daylily Nursery Coneflower Sweet Sandia Echinacea Plants (Set of 3)

Plenty of compact coneflower varieties will set your container apart, but this bi-color cultivar is especially dynamic, with its watermelon-pinks and refreshing greens. Reaching 18 inches (46 cm), this ultra-modern wowser is tailor-made for tight root zones and won't get top-heavy as midsummer stretches into autumn.

Sunshine Tapestry

LATROPIC Florida Sun Rose Coleus

Old-school coleus varieties can bleach or bolt in intense heat, but this high-contrast beauty maintains its juicy pink, burgundy, and bright lime tones all summer long. The Florida Sun Series was bred to flourish in scorching summers. Topping out at 12-18 inches (30-46 cm), it’s lovely as a mid-tier companion and a standalone knockout.

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Hydrangeas are native to understory woodlands, where they benefit from dappled shade and consistently moist soil. As a result, they have developed shallow roots and large, thin leaves that lose water quickly. If sited in a hot, sunny spot, they soon begin to struggle. As the upper layer of soil dries out, the shrubs can't take up enough moisture to replace what they're losing, causing them to wilt – and in serious cases, die.

There are some fairly heat-tolerant hydrangeas which I'll cover below. But if your summers are even hotter than those varieties can handle, I've also rounded up some excellent alternatives that will happily go the last hot mile.

The Most Heat-Tolerant Hydrangeas

If you love growing hydrangeas, you don't have to say goodbye just yet. As summer temperatures rise, it makes sense to select the most heat-tolerant varieties.

1. Panicle Hydrangea

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Top of the list is panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata). Hardy in USDA zones 3–9, panicles tolerate more heat and direct sunshine than other types of hydrangea.

If you're considering panicle hydrangeas, start with the Limelight series. The original 'Limelight' cultivar is widely considered the gold standard for heat and drought tolerance, reaching up to 8 feet (2.5 m) tall. Need something smaller? Try 'Limelight Prime', 'Little Lime', or 'Little Quick Fire' – all excellent choices for smaller gardens in hot climates.

Proven Winners Limelight Hydrangea – Quart Pot

Green Promise Farms Limelight Prime Hydrangea – 3-Gal Pot

Proven Winners Little Lime Hydrangea – 2-Gal Pot

2. Smooth Hydrangea

(Image credit: Wut_Moppie / Shutterstock)

Natives know how! Smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) are North American native shrubs that can tolerate some heat. Like panicles, they bloom on new wood. This means that even if old growth is killed off by heat, drought, or winter cold, they will produce new wood and flower the next season.

If it looks like your region is in for intense summer heat, you should take a look at the Incrediball series. ‘Annabelle’ is a smooth hydrangea classic that has a well-deserved reputation for being heat-tolerant if provided with regular irrigation. But Incrediball is even better, an improved version of Annabelle with the same massive white blooms yet even more heat-tolerant.

New Life Nursery & Garden Annabelle Hydrangea – Quart Pot

Proven Winners Incrediball Blush Hydrangea – Quart Pot

Proven Winners Incrediball Hydrangea – Quart Pot

Helping Hydrangea Survive Heat

You can and should take steps to help your hydrangea plants through summer heatwaves:

• Siting your shrubs properly is very important. They should be planted in a location that gets some morning sun but no full afternoon sun. This protects them from summer’s worst.
• Water hydrangeas long and well every morning early. You want the plant to be hydrated when the heat arrives. Place the hose at the base of the tree and water to the drip line. A deep root watering tool or soaker hoses, like this Hlinker 2026 Flat Soaker Hose on Amazon, work well and are great for root penetration.
• A protective layer of mulch goes a long way toward protecting your hydrangea from drying roots. Spread a few inches of organic mulch like bark, wood chips, or straw to insulate the soil. This regulates the soil temperature, keeping it moist and cool. Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch from Walmart is made from dye-free, sustainable scrap wood from lumber processes.
• Finally, set up shade protection to block any scorching afternoon rays. Container plants should literally be moved into deep shade in the afternoon, while in-ground plants can be protected – if they are exposed to sun – by shade cloth or even a patio umbrella. You can even buy plant umbrellas on stakes, like these ones from Amazon.

Flowering Shrubs to Grow Instead of Hydrangeas

For true heat-loving plants, you’ll have to give up on the idea of hydrangeas. Here are four mighty fine alternatives – plants that just can’t get enough rays.

1. California Lilac

(Image credit: Matthew Ashmore / Shutterstock)

In my home city of San Francisco, it almost seems excessive to grow California lilac (Ceanothus spp.), since – thanks to the fog – it never gets too hot. However, it's definitely one of my non-negotiable shrubs. If you're living in zones 8–10 and get hot summers, then consider growing this stunning plant, which blooms in spring and summer. You can order California lilac from The Home Depot.

I’m one of the hydrangea fans who prefer the gorgeous blue blossoms of bigleaf (aka mophead hydrangeas). Although the species is not heat-tolerant, California lilac flowers offer the same cool tones, and the plants thrive in hot, dry conditions in summer. They do not like the shade and require some 8 hours a day of direct sun to produce those unforgettable blooms. Best in a full sun location with sandy soil.

2. Butterfly Bush

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Scientists call these shrubs Buddleja, but most gardeners know them as butterfly bush. These flowering shrubs have graceful arching stems topped with fragrant, nectar-rich flower spikes – most commonly purple, though other colors are available. Their blooms are absolute magnets for pollinators like butterflies.

Like hydrangeas, butterfly bushes grow fast and produce a generous mass of flowers that, in addition to putting on a spectacular summer display in the garden, make stunning indoor bouquets. They can reach around 8 feet (3 m) tall and are remarkably easy to care for.

Older varieties can self-seed prolifically and are considered invasive in some regions, so it's best to choose a sterile cultivar that won't self-seed, like Miss Violet, available from Proven Winners via Amazon, or the dwarf L'il series, like Li'l Grape, available at Perfect Plants. Butterfly bushes thrive in full sun, cope well with heat, and are highly drought-tolerant once established. Apart from a hard prune in early spring, they need very little attention. Just watch and enjoy.

3. Yarrow

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Yarrow (Achillea spp.) is yet another tough native plant that is a remarkably heat- and drought-tolerant perennial. This herbaceous perennial is totally capable of holding its own in baking temperatures, blooming in summer and fall. Unlike hydrangeas, no afternoon shade is required.

You can choose from a stunning color range, but this Firefly Red Pop Yarrow from Plant Addicts is evocative of ruby red hydrangeas.

Indeed, yarrow performs best in hot, dry conditions in zones 3–9. This native wildflower produces gorgeous clusters of blooms that last all summer long and also make terrific cut flowers. You can find yarrow with flowers in pink, red, peach, white, or yellow, all of which attract pollinators and resist deer. It's one of the most reliable drought-tolerant plants to have in your garden border. Deadhead the flowers as they fade.

4. Texas Sage

(Image credit: Bowonpat Sakaew / Getty Images)

Texas sage (Leucophyllum frutescens) offers prolific violet blooms, adding color and texture to xeriscaped gardens in zones 8–10. Pick up a pack of plug plants at Walmart. Like hydrangea, it is a rounded shrub that flowers prolifically, but that may be the only thing they have in common.

The perfect site for Texas sage? Any sun-drenched garden area. This evergreen shrub is beloved for its heat and drought tolerance, gorgeous seasonal color, and adaptability.

Native to Texas and Northern Mexico, this shrub is as heat-proof as any flowering shrub you can find. It accepts intense sun, heat, and minimal watering without so much as losing a leaf. A great low-maintenance choice for water-wise gardens, the shrub's silvery foliage is lovely in and of itself, but when filled with bell-shaped flowers that range from soft violet to deep purple, it’s a true beauty. Bees and butterflies are never far away.

One word to the wise about caring for this shrub? Don’t overwater! In fact, it’s probably better not to water at all.

Warm nights, humid afternoons, and a canopy that has closed in. Midsummer hands fungal and bacterial diseases everything they need to thrive. Here are six turning up in vegetable beds right now, and what actually works against each one.

July is when the vegetable garden stops looking like a magazine spread. The plants are big, the canopy has closed in, and somewhere down in that green tangle a leaf has gone spotty. Warm nights and humid afternoons are perfect conditions for fungal and bacterial trouble, and once it takes hold in a crowded bed it moves fast, usually faster than anybody notices.

Catching it early is the whole game. A lot of common vegetable garden diseases and pests announce themselves on a handful of lower leaves before the plant is really in danger, and pulling those leaves plus a well-timed spray is often enough to hold the line. Wait until half the plant is yellow and you're no longer treating anything, just managing a loss.

6 Vegetable Diseases to Deal With This Month

The six below are the ones turning up in July plots across a lot of climates. Each has a tell, and each has a response that works if you get control of it soon enough.

1. Early Blight

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Dark spots with concentric rings inside them (like a tiny target) showing up on the oldest, lowest leaves of a tomato or potato. Those rings mean early blight (Alternaria solani). Around each spot the leaf goes yellow, and it keeps going until the leaf gives up and falls, and the fungus is already working on the one above it by then. It overwinters in soil and old plant debris, so rain and hose water splashing up onto the bottom leaves are how it gets started every year.

Snip off affected leaves the moment they turn up, and don't compost them. Mulch under the plants blocks the splash. If it's spreading, this copper fungicide from Home Depot is approved for organic gardens and can go on right up to harvest.

2. Septoria Leaf Spot

(Image credit: Getty Images)

People mix this one up with early blight, understandably. Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) puts out smaller spots, rounder, and a lot of them — you might count dozens on one leaf, pale gray in the middle with a dark rim around the edge. Tomatoes get it the worst.

Timing is the cruel part, since it tends to show up just as the fruit is sizing up, and a plant that has lost its leaves isn't ripening much of anything. Handle it the way you'd handle early blight. Strip the infected foliage off, water down at soil level rather than over the top, thin out whatever stems are crowding each other so air can move. Copper fungicide will slow the spread. It won't do anything for a leaf that's already spotted.

3. Powdery Mildew

(Image credit: PaulMaguire / Getty Images)

Squash, cucumbers, and melons pick this up almost every summer. What you're looking at is powdery mildew (Podosphaera xanthii), and it really does look like somebody spilled flour on the leaves — a few dusty patches at first, then those patches grow into each other until the surface has gone chalky all over.

Unusual among these, it doesn't need wet leaves to spread. Humid air and shade will do, which is why it settles into the middle of a dense plant. Leaves brown out eventually and the fruit underneath ripens poorly. Pull the worst leaves, open the plant up, and treat the rest. Bonide's neem oil from Amazon works as a fungicide and a miticide at once, which is handy in a bed that has both problems going.

4. Downy Mildew

(Image credit: Nikolay Malshakov / Getty Images)

This is a different disease entirely, despite the name. Downy mildew (Pseudoperonospora cubensis) turns up as yellow patches on cucumber and melon leaves, oddly angular ones, boxed in by the veins on either side. Flip a leaf over on a damp morning and there's fuzzy gray or purple growth underneath. Basil downy mildew will also tear through your herb garden if left untreated.

It moves quicker than powdery mildew does, and unlike its namesake it wants moisture. Once a plant has it, there's no real cure, which leaves protection as the only move. Give plants room, keep water off the foliage, and get a preventive fungicide onto the healthy leaves nearby before spores ever land on them.

5. Bacterial Leaf Spot

(Image credit: JJ Gouin / Getty Images)

Peppers and tomatoes both get bacterial leaf spot (Xanthomonas spp.). It's the nastier problem of the bunch, mainly because bacteria shrug off the fungicides that handle everything else here. Early on the spots look small and dark, sort of water-soaked, sometimes ringed by a yellow halo. On the fruit they harden into raised scabs.

Splashing water carries it, and so do hands and tools working through wet foliage, which is reason enough to stay out of the bed until things dry off. Copper fungicide is about the only chemical option, and even then it's protecting healthy tissue rather than fixing what's damaged. Anything badly infected is better pulled than nursed.

6. Fusarium Wilt

(Image credit: KaveeshaVisions / Shutterstock)

Watch for a plant that wilts on one side through the hot part of the afternoon, comes back overnight, then does it again the next day. Give it a week and that branch is dead and yellow while the rest of the plant carries on like nothing happened. Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) is down in the soil, and it works from the inside — clogging the tissue that carries water up through the stem. Cut a wilted stem open lengthwise and there it is, a brown streak just beneath the skin.

Nothing cures it. Once that fungus is in a bed it stays for years, so what's left is choosing resistant varieties and rotating crops, along with keeping plants out of the drought stress that seems to invite it in the first place.

Purple flowers lift a tired garden border from forgettable to fabulous, fast. By layering blooms with different shades of purple, contrasting flower shapes and foliage textures – a simple garden design trick that delivers maximum visual impact with minimal effort – you’ll quickly take your yard from lacklustre to lovely. No wonder, then, that purple flowers are an important part of how landscape designers use color in gardens..

Green and purple combinations alone provide a strong base for a border but one of purple’s greatest strengths is its unrivalled knack to harmonize with other colors. Purple flowers adapt to almost any garden mood from calming and elegant to bold and exuberant. Even better, many purple flowers are magnets for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, making your yard feel as lively as it looks. So, whatever your garden palette, you really should be growing some purple blooms.

For a serene, cohesive look, purple combines beautifully with cool tones of blue, silver and soft pink to create borders that feel relaxed and dreamy. For stronger contrast and energy, purple appears vivid and luminous against yellow and lime green. Purple flowers threaded through warm orange, burgundy, or rich red blooms creates a dramatic, jewel-toned border, too.

So, whether you have a sprawling backyard or a compact urban plot, look no further for a curated collection of long-flowering, purple perennial plants that will help you build the most beautiful garden border yet. From tall, dramatic bloomers that add height and structure to easy mid-border plants that tie a look together, these purple picks will keep your beds bursting with color for months and, with a little TLC, well into fall.

1. Velvety-Spired Salvia

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun
• Flowers May-October
• Grows to 2' high and wide

Salvias earn their place in any garden by doing something many plants promise but few deliver: looking spectacular for months while asking for very little in return. Yes, salvia is one of those super-useful flowering plants that look like you spent hours gardening but practically grow themselves.

Our top pick of purple salvia varieties is May Night, and plants are available from Nature Hills. Electric violet-purple flower spikes rise like floral fireworks above tidy mounds of fragrant foliage, bringing bold color and a cool, saturated tone that makes neighboring plants glow. This bloom is especially gorgeous threaded through roses, coneflowers, catmint and ornamental grasses.

Pollinators absolutely adore it and, once established, May Night handles heat and dry spells with impressive resilience, making it perfect for sun-baked borders, cottage gardens, pollinator patches and low-water landscapes.

When growing salvias, well-drained soil and sunshine are a must. May Night starts blooming in late spring but snip off faded flower spikes after the first bloom flush and it will roar back for an encore throughout summer and into fall.

2. Fabulously Frilly Aster

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers July–October
• Grows to 1-2' high and wide

If your garden border needs long-lasting color and a lot less fuss, Honeysong Stokes Aster is an easy win. This compact perennial is beloved for its big, fluffy lavender-purple flowers that look like fringed pincushions that keep on coming through summer. The glowing blooms are powerhouses for butterflies and bees, making a border buzz with activity.

What makes Stokesia leavis ‘Honeysong’ especially handy in a border is its tidy, mounded habit. This aster stays nicely contained, slotting beautifully into the middle of a border without flopping everywhere or swallowing nearby plants. The soft green foliage also creates a calming backdrop that plays well with bolder flowers and ornamental grasses.

Honeysong Stokes Aster plants are available from Nature Hills. Surprisingly tough, this variety needs full sun and well-drained soil, and it’ll reward you with loads of flowers and very little drama. It handles heat and humidity better than many asters, and deadheading spent blooms encourages even more flowering.

3. Beautifully Scented Rose

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

• Zones 5-11
• Full sun
• Flowers May-October
• Grows to 2-3' high and wide

Roses are already garden royalty, but Ebb Tide is extra special on account of its deep, smoky purple blooms. Shifting between plum, velvet violet, and dusky magenta depending on the light, this rose variety also has an incredibly rich, spicy clove scent that drifts through the border, stopping you in your tracks every time you pass by.

But the biggest reason why Rosa ‘Ebb Tide’ is such a winner in a garden border is that it adds drama without stepping into high-maintenance diva territory. It stays relatively compact and, like most roses, mixes beautifully with perennials. Pop these dark blooming roses next to some contrasting silvery foliage or lighter flowers for a layered, designer look.

Like most roses, Ebb Tide loves full sun and appreciates good air circulation to keep foliage healthy. Water deeply rather than constantly sprinkling, and add mulch to keep roots cool and soil moist. Key rose-care tasks during the growing season, such as deadheading and a little feeding, will keep blooms coming. Ebb Tide roses are stocked by Nature Hills.

4. Oh-So-Purple Clematis

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-August
• Grows to 3-5' high and 2-3' wide

Huge star-shaped purple flowers with rich reddish-pink stripes down petal centers make Boulevard Olympia Clematis one of the best purple blooms to enjoy in your garden. Somehow managing to simultaneously pull off both elegant and dramatic, the blooms appear generously from late spring into summer, often with a later second flush.

Clematis ‘Boulevard Olympia’ is especially useful because of its manageable size. Unlike giant clematis varieties that seem determined to conquer the entire garden shed, this is a well-behaved climber that won't scramble out of control. It stays compact enough for smaller borders, patio trellises, obelisks and even large containers tucked into mixed plantings. It adds vertical interest without overwhelming nearby shrubs and perennials, which is incredibly handy when a border needs a bit of height.

Boulevard Olympia Clematis is available from Nature Hills. To keep clematis thriving, plant it where the vines bask in sun while the roots stay cool – use mulch or nearby low-growing plants to shade its base. It prefers rich, well-drained soil and regular watering, especially during hot spells. Choose the right support for this border plant to climb and give it a light prune in early spring, and it’ll happily spend the season covering itself in pastel-perfect, velvety blooms.

5. Super-Cute Hydrangea

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-September
• Grows to 1½-2' high and wide

Hydrangea serrata Tiny Tuff Stuff might be smaller than your average hydrangea but it absolutely delivers when it comes to color and charm. Its delicate lacecap flowers appear in soft pinks, purples, or blues (the exact bloom color depends on your soil), creating that dreamy cottage-garden look. And unlike some hydrangeas that bloom once and call it a season, this one reblooms, keeping your border looking fresh and flower-filled for months on end.

Thanks to its compact size, Tiny Tuff Stuff is a versatile cutie that's perfect for edging pathways, softening the front of shrub borders or filling awkward gaps where larger hydrangeas would take over. The smaller foliage and airy blooms also blend beautifully with ferns, hostas and ornamental grasses, giving borders a lovely layered, relaxed vibe.

This mountain hydrangea is tougher than it looks too. With excellent cold hardiness and better bud survival than many traditional hydrangeas, it's more likely to bloom reliably, even after harder winters. Give it morning sun or partial shade, keep the soil evenly moist, and add mulch to help retain moisture. A little compost in spring goes a long way toward keeping this tiny powerhouse happy, too. Tiny Tuff Stuff hydrangeas are available from Burpee.

6. Space-Saving Rose of Sharon

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers July–November
• Grows to 10-15' high and 2-3' wide

If you want a shrub that brings serious flower power without hogging all the space, Rose of Sharon Purple Pillar is a total garden-border superstar. Unlike traditional rose of Sharon shrubs that can be a little unruly, Hibiscus syriacus ‘Purple Pillar’ grows tall but relatively narrow, meaning you can tuck it into tight borders or add height at the back of a mixed border without elbowing out neighboring plants.

Rose of Sharon Purple Pillar is available from Nature Hills and the flowers are total show-offs! Just as many other shrubs begin to fade, ‘Purple Pillar’ bursts into bloom with rich lilac-purple flowers and dramatic red centres – a striking display that’s sure to become a favourite stop-off for pollinators.

This is another refreshingly low-maintenance plant. Give it full sun for the best flowering and plant it in well-drained soil. Once established, Purple Pillar is pretty drought tolerant, though it appreciates regular watering during hot spells. A light prune in late winter helps keep that neat upright shape looking sharp.

7. Shade-Loving Variegated Liriope

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 5-10
• Partial shade
• Flowers August-September
• Grows to 1' high and wide

Variegated monkey grass deserves a lot more attention than it gets. While the flashy flowers and dramatic shrubs grab all the attention, this striped beauty slips quietly into a border with its arching green-and-cream foliage, adding brightness, texture and contrast all season long. In late summer, slender spikes covered in soft lavender-purple blooms dance above the green-and-cream leaves.

Liriope muscari ‘Variegata’ is brilliantly versatile, working beautifully along pathways, at the front of borders, or tucked around shrubs where it illuminates darker corners of the garden. Repeating it through a border creates little waves of color, texture and movement that help connect larger flowering plants.

Thriving in partial shade to full sun, it’s just as easy-going as it is attractive and handles heat, humidity, and dry spells with very little fuss. Plant it in well-drained soil, water regularly while it gets established, and then leave it to get on with life. A quick trim in late winter or early spring freshens up the foliage before new growth appears. Variegated liriope plants are stocked by Fast Growing Trees.

8. Star Performer Agapanthus

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

• Zones 8-11
• Full sun
• Flowers July-August
• Grows to 1-2' high and 2-3' wide

If you want a plant that instantly makes a garden border feel a little more polished and upscale, ‘Poppin’ Star’ Lily of the Nile absolutely delivers. This Agapanthus produces gorgeous clusters of violet-blue flowers striped with deeper indigo tones, held high above tidy green foliage like exploding fireworks. The blooms have a crisp, architectural look that adds plenty of cheerful structure to borders.

What makes ‘Poppin’ Star’ stand out compared to older Lily of the Nile varieties, though, is its compact habit and impressive flower production. This cultivar stays much more manageable in size, which means you can easily tuck it into mixed borders without sacrificing too much space. It’s especially effective repeated throughout a border because those upright blooms create rhythm and movement, guiding your eye through the garden.

Growing agapanthus couldn't be simpler. This perennial thrives in full sun and well-drained soil and is surprisingly tolerant of heat and dry conditions. Regular watering during the first growing season helps it settle in, but after that, it’s pretty self-sufficient. A little cleanup of spent flower stalks is usually all it takes to keep ‘Poppin’ Star’ looking fresh and ready for its next performance. Poppin Star Lily of the Nile plants are available from Nature Hills.

9. Popping Purple Phlox

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 4-8
• Full sun
• Flowers July-September
• Grows to 2' high and wide

Big on color and low on maintenance, Grape Lollipop Phlox is about to become your new favorite border buddy! This cheerful perennial produces clusters of vibrant grape-purple flowers that glow in the summer sunshine and, unlike some older phlox varieties, keeps a neat, compact shape that doesn’t flop halfway through the season.

Also known as Phlox paniculata ‘Ditomsur’, Grape Lollipop Phlox plants are available from Nature Hills. This easy-to-grow plant is perfect for the middle of the border where it can knit together taller shrubs and shorter edging plants. The bold purple blooms pair seamlessly with pinks, whites, silvers, and ornamental grasses, giving borders that lush, layered cottage-garden feel.

Thankfully, this variety has much better mildew resistance than many traditional garden phlox, so the foliage keeps on looking good. Prioritize full sun, decent airflow and consistently moist but well-drained soil when growing phlox, and you'll be rewarded with months of color.

10. Repeat-flowering Azalea

(Image credit: Getty Images)

• Zones 4-8
• Full sun to partial shade
• Flowers July-September
• Grows to 4-5' high and 3-4' wide

Some plants give you one glorious moment and then quietly fade into the background. Autumn Color Encore Azalea is not that kind of plant! This hardworking shrub pulls off the rare gardening trick of blooming not once, but multiple times a year, with waves of vibrant flowers appearing in spring, summer, and again in fall. In a border, that kind of repeat performance is pure gold.

And yes, this beauty is right at the pinker end of the purple spectrum, its vivid violet petals light up any bed. This incredibly color makes deeper purple blooms pop, too, which is why it's one of the most popular flowers used by garden landscapers.

But what really makes this Encore variety shine is how dependable it is. The evergreen foliage keeps the border looking full even in winter, while the compact, rounded shape makes it easy to weave into a mixed border without being unruly. It works beautifully alongside hydrangeas, ornamental grasses, hostas, or dark-leaved shrubs, adding bright punches of color every time it blooms. Which, being a member of the 'Encore' series of azaleas, is often!

Plant this amazing azalea in partial sun or a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, and make sure the soil is well-drained and slightly acidic. When growing azaleas, a layer of mulch helps keep the roots cool and happy, especially during hot weather. Then occasional watering during dry spells and a light feed for acid-loving plants is all that's needed to keep this azalea looking energetic and flower-packed for months on end. Autumn Color Encore Azalea plants are available from My Perfect Plants.

Homespun water features made with a floating solar fountain and a container are a huge trend this summer – but add some plants and you'll create a garden highlight that’s even more of a showstopper. It’s quick and easy to do and, by getting clever with the containers you use, budget-friendly, too. The water spray naturally cools the air, and the gentle splashing makes for a soothing soundscape in your outside space. And when there's no telling how long this heatwave summer will last for, that's just what your too-hot garden needs right now.

Solar fountains have taken water features out of the realm of expensive, professionally landscaped gardens and put them firmly within reach of us everyday gardeners. DIY microponds are fast replacing trad water features as the must-have garden feature for 2026, and there are so many creative ways you can use a floating solar fountain to make one. There are even solar fountains with colored LEDs so you can DIY a stunning water feature to light summer evenings in your garden.

A water feature with plants, however, tops them all and, as quick and clever container gardening ideas you can DIY on a budget go, you can’t beat it! Here’s exactly what to do so you can make one this weekend.

1. Choose Your Containers

You’re going to need two containers, one larger than the other.

The central water bowl needs to be at least 12 inches wide to contain most of the fountain splashes, though obviously the wider and deeper it is, the less frequently you’ll have to top it up. You don’t need to buy an expensive purpose-made water bowl, as planters intended for succulents don’t usually have a drainage hole and make a stylish alternative at a fraction of the price. It’s easy to seal the drainage hole of other planters with a marine silicone sealant like this from Amazon. Just don’t use terracotta pots as the clay is porous.

The outer planter needs to be at least six inches wider than the water bowl that will stand inside it, to leave enough space for plants to flourish. That means you need a pretty big outer container – but that needn't come at a cost. Resin (also called polyresin) or composite plastic planters commonly mimic the look of stone, metal or wood and are far cheaper than the real thing. This material is lightweight, too, so it’s often used to make big, wide planters.

Have a hunt around your local hardware store in your search for a suitable container as well. Animal drinking troughs and utility tubs are typically robust and relatively inexpensive, and it’s a quick task to drill drainage holes.

Container Pairings At Sensible PricesBudget Combo

The Planter

Tuff Stuff 15 Gallon Polyresin Stock Tank

Meauring 26 inches wide and 8 inches deep, you’ll need to drill drainage holes in this heavy-duty stock tank.

The Water Bowl

Charlton Home Tralee Neoclassic Resin Urn Planter

The 7-inch base of this 19-inch high and 14-inch wide urn is removable for a choice of heights.

Designer Look For Less

The Planter

Veradek Round Indoor/Outdoor Planter

This 24-inch wide high planter made from a plastic-stone composite in a sandy tone is 6.5 inches wide.

The Water bowl

Bloem Terra Plastic Plant Bowl in Vanilla Bean

Made for outdoor as well as indoor use, this 14-inch-wide plastic plant bowl with a sealed base is 7 inches high.

Rustic Charm

The Planter

Style Selections 22.28" Round Plastic Planter

This wooden-look half-barrel plastic planter measures 22.28 inches wide by 12.95 inches high with knock-out drainage holes.

The Water bowl

Style Selections 14.73" Round Plastic Planter

The same planter is available in a smaller size measuring 14.73 wide and 9.17 inches high, and you may need to seal the holes.

2. Pick a Suitable Floating Solar Fountain

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The amount of energy the solar panels of a floating fountain are capable of generating is measured in watts, which you’ll typically find in product descriptions as ‘W’. Many 1W fountains are designed for use in birdbaths so only produce a gentle water spray when the sun is shining directly on the solar panels. If you're using a similarly small, shallow container, that's fine. However, for a fountain that’s powerful enough to provide a decent-height fountain and a good flow of water in a larger container, look for a product that’s at least 2W.

If you want a fountain with LEDs, then the lights will use more power, so 3-4W is better. Don’t be tempted by more powerful 5-6W solar fountains when you're installing a water feature yourself, though, as these are more suited to bigger bodies of water. Too powerful, and the spray pattern will fall outside the container and you'll be forever topping up water levels.

A design with stabilising arms that prevent the fountain floating close to the container rim also helps minimize water loss.

If you want the fountain to operate on cloudy days and after dark, or if you want to position your water feature in partial shade, you’ll need a product that has a battery. A fountain with a 2000mAh battery will typically run for 3-4 hours without sun on a full charge.

For increased longevity, look for a fountain with run-dry protection so it automatically shuts down when there’s insufficient water, and a filter to prevent debris from entering the pump.

Our Pick of Floating Solar Fountains

Best budget buy

SZMP Solar Fountain Upgrade

This 3.5W solar fountain has efficient glass solar panels, stabilizing rods and a choice of eight spray patterns, though only works in direct sunlight.

Best for shallow water

Yzert Solar Fountain With 2000mAh Battery

This 3.5W fountain automatically switches off if it senses insufficient water levels. Efficient solar panels and a battery means it’ll work in partial shade.

Best for a light show

Floating Solar Fountain With 60 LED Lights

This 4W fountain has a 4000mAh capacity battery to power its 60 LED lights and color-cycling effects for 4-6 hours once the sun goes down.

3. Position Your Planter

Position your water feature before you begin planting. Any small body of water will heat up and evaporate more quickly than a larger area, so while you need sunlight to charge the solar panels and fuel plants, a little shade is a good idea. Around 6 hours of sunshine a day is the ideal compromise.

Consider what plants will be around and above your water bowl planter too, because you don’t want to be fishing out fallen leaves. Work out where your water feature will bring you the most enjoyment, too, to listen to as well as look at.

4. Plant Up The Outer Container

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Because the plants are likely to get splashed, use a moisture-control potting mix such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix, available from Amazon. If you’ve already got some potting mix, simply add some water-storing crystals such as these from Amazon or coconut coir, also available from Amazon, to enhance its ability to regulate moisture levels.

Position the water container as you’re filling the outer planter, making sure its rim is at least an inch higher than that of the outer vessel. It’s a smart move to put at least a thin layer of the potting mix beneath the base of the inner container, to give roots maximum growing room.

Then plant up the outer container, being careful to finish with the water bowl level. Any bedding plants suitable for hanging baskets are perfect for this project as they’re typically heat-tolerant low growers that bloom abundantly and enjoy sunny conditions. See what your local garden center has in stock, or you can plant pansies and violas in July that will last all through fall, and some are hardy enough to keep blooming in winter, too. Burpee currently has an excellent selection of pansy and viola varieties as young, ready-to-flower plants for a fast result.

A few easy-grow plants with trailing stems will add to the display.

Whatever you choose to plant, water them well, until it dribbles from the drainage holes, to settle the soil around the roots.

5. Fill With Water and Enjoy!

Now all that’s left to do is fill up the inner container with water, pop in the floating fountain, and enjoy your dazzling new water feature.

To enhance ripples and reflections, add a drop of pool colorant like this black pond dye from Amazon to the water.

(Image credit: Future/Emma Kendell/AI)

I'll never be the person who tells you raised beds are going out of style. They've earned their place as a gardening staple, making it easier to grow everything from tomatoes to tulips while keeping beds neat, organized, and easier to tend.

But every now and then, a simple twist on a classic comes along that makes me wonder why I don't see it more often. Something that takes everything gardeners already love about traditional raised beds and add something they're often missing.

This latest upgrade (raised beds with built-in trellises) does exactly that, offering the allure of height to savvy gardeners. Instead of stopping at soil level, they encourage climbers to scramble skyward, transforming a practical planting space into a living feature that's every bit as beautiful as it is productive. Think a wall of fragrant jasmine, a cascade of clematis, or a curtain of climbing beans, all from the same footprint you'd use for an ordinary raised bed. Win!

The Ultimate Raised Beds Upgrade

Essentially, this raised beds upgrade offers a growing area with a built-in trellis, giving you the best of both worlds: the practicality of elevated planting space combined with the beauty and vertical impact of climbing plants. Instead of letting your garden only spread outwards, this clever design encourages you to grow upwards too.

And honestly? No small thing. After all, one of the biggest challenges in modern gardens is space. Whether you have a compact backyard, a small patio, or simply want to make better use of every corner, vertical gardening offers a smart solution.

A trellis planter allows you to grow more without taking up extra ground space. Your climbing plants can climb, creating layers of greenery, flowers, and even edible crops while leaving valuable room underneath for other plants.

Check it out:

WTFGO Resin Raised Garden Bed With Trellis and Wheels

Toolsempire Raised Garden Bed With Trellis & 2 Planter Boxes

Casaphoria Metal Raised Garden Bed With Trellis and Wheels

Traditional gardening tends to keep our focus firmly at ground level, but one of the easiest ways to make a garden feel bigger and more like it was designed by an actual professional is to start thinking vertically.

That's exactly what I love about raised beds with built-in trellises. They take one of gardening's most practical features and give it another dimension. Suddenly, your vegetables aren't simply growing; they're climbing. Your flowers aren't just filling a bed; they're framing it. Even a compact backyard feels more layered when your eye is drawn upward by a curtain of blooms or lush green foliage.

It's a simple tweak, but it has a surprisingly big impact. A raised beds upgrade like this can soften a plain fence, create a little privacy around a seating area, or subtly divide one part of the garden from another without feeling heavy or enclosed. And because the planting starts at waist height before continuing skyward, the whole feature feels fuller and more immersive than a standard raised bed alone.

(Image credit: Goldfinch4ever / Getty Images)

Don't get me wrong, I don't think raised beds are going anywhere (honestly, I hope they don't). They've earned their reputation as one of the hardest-working features in the garden, and make growing everything from herbs to tomatoes that little bit easier.

Instead of creating a neat rectangle of planting, though, these clever multitasking twists on the format give you height, movement, fragrance, and color all in one. And for me, that's the real appeal; I think we are, all of us, big enough to admit that the best garden features aren't just practical, but that tempt you to sit outside with a cup of coffee (or tea, if you're me) just to admire how everything has grown.

So no, I won't be giving up on raised beds anytime soon. But if I were buying a new one today, I'd be very tempted to choose the version that lets me garden upwards as well as outwards.

In spring the compost pile was a machine. You could sink a hand into it and feel the warmth, that faint sweet-earth smell coming off the top, everything breaking down on schedule. Then July shows up and the whole thing quits on you. Banana peels you tossed in two weeks back still look like banana peels. It sits there doing nothing, and it's easy to figure you did something wrong.

You almost certainly didn't. A pile that quits in midsummer is a familiar composting headache, and it nearly always comes down to one of two things going sideways in the heat. Maybe it dried out and the microbes doing the work died off with it. Or it packed down so tight nothing can breathe. Both are easy to spot once you know the feel of them, and quicker to fix than you'd first expect.

Culprit One: The Pile Dried Out

(Image credit: Philippe Gerber / Getty Images)

Strip it back and a compost pile is really a colony of microbes, and those microbes need water to stay alive – roughly the moisture of a wrung-out sponge. July heat wicks that out faster than the pile can hold it, worst around the edges and up top, and past a certain point the bacteria go dormant. Or die off. Decomposition doesn't taper so much as switch off.

Checking takes maybe three seconds. Grab a handful from the middle and give it a squeeze. It ought to feel damp and let go of a drop or two. If it comes out dusty, or barely cool to the touch, then that's a thirsty pile. A dry pile also tends to feel loose and look grayish, the material bleached rather than rich brown, none of the heat you'd expect when you dig in.

How to Rehydrate a Dry Pile

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Reviving a compost pile when it's bone dry isn't just pointing the hose at it and walking off. Water hits that dried-out surface and mostly runs down the sides without sinking in, so the core stays as parched as it started. Layer the water in instead. Pull the pile apart, wet each section as you go, then rebuild – so the moisture works through the middle instead of pooling on top.

While it's open, mix in something wet and nitrogen-rich to help it hold water next time – fresh grass clippings, kitchen scraps, or a few shovels of manure. Then check it every few days through the hot stretch. A compost thermometer from Amazon takes the guesswork out, since a pile climbing back toward 120 to 140F (49 to 60C) is telling you the microbes are awake and fed.

Culprit Two: The Pile Can't Breathe

The second culprit runs the opposite direction, and it's sneakier – a pile can be soaking wet and still be a problem. Microbes need oxygen about as much as they need water. Leave a heap un-turned for weeks and it settles, compacting under its own weight until the air pockets give out. Pile a thick mat of grass clippings on top, packing down like wet paper, and the whole thing has gone anaerobic.

This one you smell before you see. A pile starved for air turns sour – ammonia, or that rotten-egg funk, nothing like the clean earthy smell you're after – and the middle often goes slimy where a different crowd of microbes, the kind that get by without air, moves in. They work a lot slower. What you're left with is a wet, matted mess instead of crumbly finished compost.

How to Get Air Back In

(Image credit: Alamy)

For a compacted pile, the fix is oxygen, and that means turning it. Digging the outside into the middle and breaking up any matted clumps opens the structure back up and gets air to the microbes that have been starving for it. A dense pile can take some muscle. A compost aerator from Amazon augers down into the center and pulls a channel open without you having to fork the entire heap over by hand.

How often to turn compost is where people overthink it. Through the summer, once a week keeps a pile aerobic and moving without much fuss, and if you've just fixed a stalled one, turning it every three or four days for the first couple of weeks gets it caught up faster. A pile that gets buried under grass clippings all season stays stalled, so a rotating bin like this Miracle-Gro dual-chamber tumbler from Walmart makes the turning far less of a chore.

16 Inch Compost Thermometer

Large Dual Chamber Compost Tumbler

Stainless Steel Compost Aerator

Getting the Green-to-Brown Balance Right

The last piece is what goes in. Hot weather runs a pile through greens fast, so a mid-summer heap heavy on browns – dry leaves, straw, shredded cardboard – breaks down sluggishly for lack of nitrogen, while one buried in greens goes wet and sour. A rough two-to-one, browns to greens by volume, keeps it cooking through the heat. Get the water and air right first, though. Those are what stalled it, and they're what will start it again.

Spring may be the most popular time to plant perennials, but it’s not the only time. July isn’t too late to get certain heat-tolerant perennials in the ground, help them get established, and enjoy colorful blooms that last well into fall.

If you have some gaps in your beds you want to address or just want to add more fall color to your garden, these perennial plants are our top picks for planting now.

Plus, we'll provide some expert tips to help your July-planted perennials settle into their new homes well and thrive for many years to come.

1. Coneflower

(Image credit: Alamy)

Also known as echinacea, coneflower is a native perennial that flowers through summer and well into fall. Because they tolerate summer heat well and develop strong roots in warm weather, coneflowers can be planted in July.

Purple is the traditional color for echinacea, but new varieties of coneflowers offer red, orange, yellow, white, and pink blooms. Coneflowers are hardy in zones 3 through 9, so most gardeners can grow them. They thrive in full sun and soil that drains well.

You can shop unique, colorful coneflowers from Wayside Gardens.

2. Black-Eyed Susan

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Black-eyed Susan, also known as rudbeckia, is another native plant that can be planted now because of its good heat tolerance. Like echinacea, it is suitable for zones 3 through 9 and loves full sun and good drainage.

Black-eyed Susan flowers from July through September and even October in some locations. The flowers are golden yellow and daisy-like with a dark center. You can deadhead spent blooms to encourage more flowering, but also let some develop seeds to support your local birds.

Get a 3-pack of beautiful black-eyed Susans from the Home Depot.

3. Stonecrop

(Image credit: schnuddel/Getty Images)

Also known as sedum, stonecrop is a succulent that thrives in heat and tolerates dry conditions. These characteristics mean you can easily plant sedum in July without causing them too much stress. You can find many different types of sedum, but ‘Autumn Joy’ is an ideal pick for July planting. The flowers are light pink initially, transition to deep red in fall, and even last into winter.

Suitable for zones 3 through 9, sedum needs soil that drains very well. It can even grow in poor, sandy, or rocky soil. You won’t even need to fertilize sedum, which is not a heavy feeder. Just water it regularly as it develops strong roots and enjoy the flowers, which will develop quickly in the hot summer weather.

You can get an Autumn Joy Sedum online from Nature Hills Nursery.

4. Aster

(Image credit: Debra Lee Wiseberg / Getty Images)

Asters form a large group of daisy-like flowers that bloom in late summer and all through the fall in shades of blue, pink, purple, and white. This is a great late-season pollinator flower, and July is a good time to plant it so it can get settled in just before blooming.

Hardy in zones 3 through 8, asters shine in full sun or partial shade. They bloom best in fertile soil that drains well, but stays consistently moist. Pinch back the stems to encourage bushier growth and to prevent legginess.

Shop a wide variety of native aster plants from Plant Addicts.

5. Blanket Flower

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Blanket flower is well-adapted to the heat of midsummer, so you can plant it in your garden now for showy late summer and fall flowers. These daisy-like native flowers have unique rings of color in shades of red, yellow, and orange, and are a big draw for pollinators.

Plant blanket flower in an area with full sun and well-draining soil. It’s particularly well-adapted to dry conditions and will even flower during a drought. Despite the tolerance for drought, water your new plant to help it get established. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage blooms through the fall.

Explore exciting blanket flower varieties online from Wayside Gardens.

6. Sneezeweed

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Despite its common name, sneezeweed is not a known cause of hay fever or other seasonal allergies. This native wildflower is traditionally yellow, but modern cultivars come in shades of red, orange, and yellow and can be multicolored, similar to blanket flower.

Sneezeweed will establish readily even in the heat of midsummer. It provides instant blooms from July through fall with colors that match the tones of autumn foliage. Sneezeweed grows in zones 3 through 8 and loves full sun. For soil, it requires a decent amount of moisture, so plan to water your new sneezeweed regularly and frequently after planting.

You can get a sneezeweed plant online from Fast Growing Trees.

7. Russian Sage

(Image credit: Anmbph / Getty Images)

Russian sage can be planted in July because it tolerates heat very well and will readily grow strong roots in typical midsummer weather conditions. Russian sage is a beautiful plant with silvery foliage and an abundance of light blue or purple flowers that bloom well into fall.

Although not a North American native, Russian sage is hardy in zones 5 through 9, is not invasive, and supports pollinators. Plant in full sun in soil that drains very well. Even dry or rocky soil will be adequate for this tough perennial.

Shop Russian sage plants online from Fast Growing Trees.

8. Coreopsis

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Coreopsis is also known as tickseed. It grows quickly and readily in summer heat, developing strong roots and blooming right away. The flowers of this native perennial are typically shades of yellow, but you can also find red and pink types. They bloom continuously through midsummer and into fall.

Coreopsis is hardy in zones 2 through 11 and can tolerate both extremes of cold winters and hot summers. Grow coreopsis in full sun in an area with soil that drains very well. Plan to water it to get established, but it will then be very drought tolerant. You can deadhead the flowers to encourage more blooms all through fall.

Explore gorgeous coreopsis plants from Wayside Gardens.

Pro Tips for Planting Perennials in July

Because of the potential stress caused by heat and drought, July isn’t really the ideal time to put in new plants. However, it can be done successfully with a little extra care:

• Plant when temperatures are coolest. Wait for a cloudy, cooler day, if possible, otherwise plant new perennials in morning or evening to avoid the highest temperatures.
• Water consistently and deeply. The inch (2.5 cm) of water per week rule doesn’t apply to new summer perennials. They need more deep watering to beat heat stress and develop deep roots.
• Add a layer of mulch around new perennials. This will regulate soil temperature, help keep moisture in the soil, and suppress weeds.

Give new July perennials a strong start with these tips, and you’ll be rewarded with flowers that take you into fall, adding color and supporting wildlife.

Getting one of the best cordless lawn mowers for your lawn is essential for maintaining grass growth and health from spring to fall. I was fortunate to be offered the opportunity to review the Worx 40V 17 Cordless Lawn Mower. It's battery-powered with some familiar tech, pitched for small-to-medium lawns.

We have a lawn sized at 400 sq. ft at the back, and we also have front and side lawned areas in our house. This meant I could test the Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower in stages throughout the day, between charges, or when I was distracted by other tasks to complete in the yard. It took less than a couple of hours to recharge both 40V batteries fully, so I didn't have to wait too long until I could restart a mow.

I found that the cutting performance was fantastic. There are seven cutting heights; I struck a happy medium by opting for a grade 4 cut across our yard to tackle the uneven ground. There were many grass cuttings, so I was grateful for the grass collector, although I could have done with this being larger. This is just a teaser of how I found the Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower, which, as I'm sure you can tell, was riddled with pros and cons. Keep reading for the full run-down of this cordless electric lawn mower.

Worx 17" Cordless Lawn Mower

Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower: Key specs

Model no:

WG743

Lawn size

Up to 1/8 acre / 5500ft2

Drive type

Push

Deck width

17in

Battery

20V

Cutting width

16in

Height adjustment

Single-lever / 7 positions

Cutting height

1-1/2" - 4.0"

Weight

38.1lbs

Dimensions

41.34 x 17.72 x 56.99in (h x w x d)

Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower: Price & availability

The Worx 40V 17-inch Cordless Lawn Mower has a list price of $329.99 and is available from Amazon. Lowes has it for $350.65. I have seen it regularly discounted, so it would be worth watching the reseller sites if the budget is tight.

This RRP puts the Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower in the mid-range price bracket. It comes with two 20V batteries, a charger, a mulch plug, a 1.2-bushel collection bag, and instructions.

Price & availability score: 5 out of 5

(Image credit: Future)Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower: First impressions

It arrived in a cardboard box wrapped in thick plastic; my first impression of the Worx 40V 17-inch Cordless Lawn Mower was that it was big and heavy. I did manage to get it through to our living space instead of dragging it out to the garage in the rain, but this wasn't without putting in some effort.

Upon cutting through the plastic and opening the box, it was evident that not much assembling was required (hurrah). While there were instructions, I didn't need to refer to them, but having them as a backup was good.

The box could have been recycled, but the plastic had gone into the trash. Inside the box was the lawn mower, 45L grass collection bag, 2x 20V PowerShare batteries, charger, and instruction manual.

(Image credit: Future)Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower: Setup

Setting up the Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower was (thankfully) a breeze. All in all, it took me just 10 minutes to unbox and assemble this lawn mower.

All the parts were self-explanatory, so I didn't feel that I needed to refer to the instructions, but they were good to have as a backup. The blade was already in position, so all I needed to do was attach two sides of the handle and the grass collector bag.

Before the first use, I fully charged the batteries so I could attempt to tackle the overgrown backyard in one run. It took less than two hours to fully recharge two 20V batteries.

(Image credit: Future)Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower: Design

The Worx 40V 17-inch Cordless Lawn Mower measures 41.34 x 17.72 x 56.99in (h x w x d) and weighs 35.3 lbs, according to the specs. It looks and feels like a lawn mower with a few little quirks.

One of those quirks is that while you can extend the handle bar 110 - 115cm it doesn't collapse to enable easier storing. I found that adjusting it to 115cm which gave me a height of 100cm was the most comfortable for me (I'm 5ft 8in tall). To store, it'll mean that you'll need to be prepared to take the handlebar apart and / or remove the collector bag, as I did, so that you can fit it into a secure storage space.

It also has a removable 40-litre grass clippings collector that attaches to the rear of the mower. The handle on top of the grass collector, which can be slid on and off, is useful for emptying because it makes it easier to tip out the grass clippings.

(Image credit: Future)

For a shortcut of the grass, you can adjust the height of the deck and the 30-cm blade with a lever found in the front left-hand-side wheel. This lever can be adjusted when the mower is not in motion, but be prepared to use your other hand hold down the mower for adjusting because moving and lifting the mower from the ground with said lever can be stiff.

(Image credit: Future)

The two 20V 4.0Ah batteries neatly sit under the hood at the front of the lawn mower, which can be accessed by lifting the front of the hood to release them. A neat little design feature is the ability to check the remaining battery power levels by pressing a button next to the hood. This will light up a display in green to give an indication of how much battery is remaining, which is helpful to gauge whether or not it would be worth challenging another patch of lawn with the remaining battery charge.

Design score: 4 out of 5

Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower: Performance

The Worx 40V 17-inch Cordless Lawn Mower was surprisingly easy to use and didn't make much noise while cutting, but it didn't come without some quirks.

To start up this mower is one of the easiest I have experienced. There's a safety key which slots in the a designated spot on the side of the handle bar, and then there's a lever that spans the full width of said handlebar that's required to be held down at all times while in use.

It did a fantastic job of cutting our 400 sq.ft lawn in the backyard, but I never quite finished the first mow in one go because the battery ran out. The first mow challenged longer, older grass; other subsequent mows were shorter, lusher green shoots. This lawn mower is advertised as suitable for lawn sizes up to 500sq.ft/1/8 acre, which ours is not, yet it failed to meet that specification when combating a more wildly lawn.

Fortunately, the two 20V batteries only took a couple of hours to charge, so I could finish the mowing that day (if I still felt like cutting the grass). If you have other Worx items in the PowerShare collection, switching to one of those batteries (fully charged) could be a good backup option.

While cutting the grass, the 45L grass collection bag quickly became filled with grass clippings. This is probably because I only mow once a week; if you mow more regularly, there will be less grass to collect. The filling up of the bag meant that I had to frequently stop to empty the grass clippings in the garden waste bin. If you prefer to add mulch back to your yard, you can use the mulch plug to return the nutrients to the grass. I did not do this because we're combating an embarrassing amount of weeds in our lawn, which I do not want to regrow.

Thankfully, the grass collection bag was easy to remove with the handle. It then hooked back over the rear of the mower to be refilled.

(Image credit: Future)

To test the cutting performance of the Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower, I mowed over an apple. It's suffice to say that there wasn't much apple left; most of it had been turned into juice with a few scraps of peel scattered around the sides of the mower. What I was demonstrating here is the cutting power. Go over uneven ground with a low cutting height. The mower will automatically cut out (that blade is sensitive, too), so I'd adjust by selecting a sensible height - start high before dropping it to gauge the most suitable level.

(Image credit: Future)

I have a fence that runs both sides of our yard, so I like to get as close as possible to that before getting out the string trimmer. But this battery-powered mower didn't get as close as I wanted. It has chunky wheels and a chunky 17-inch deck to boot, which the blade edges couldn't surpass. Still, it didn't take too much effort to trample on the longer blades, remove the grass, or, as I say, get out the trimmer.

(Image credit: Future)

Getting to the end of the yard is a bit of a pinch point, too, although I'd say that there is still ample room to turn a lawn mower. The Worx 40V 17-inch Cordless Lawn Mower didn't make light work of this; it made a meal out of maneuvering. I resolved it by doing an awkward 5-point turn, which made its weight (38.1 lbs) feel a lot heavier than it actually was.

As a battery-powered, cordless lawn mower, it didn't cause a smell when operating and didn't generate a lot of noise. I measured 89dB on my noise level meter (lower than the advertised 92dB) similar to a food blender or dishwasher.

Cleaning and maintenance were super easy. All required is to charge the battery and ensure the empty grass collector bag. The blades may need sharpening or replacing after some months or years of use, depending how often or challenging the terrain is.

Performance score: 4 out of 5

Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower: User reviews

Looking at the reviews on Amazon, this cordless mower is a clear winner for small yards. Customers have rated the Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower 4.2 out of 5 stars. They really like the size, quality, and weight of the lawn mower. One reviewer says, "It cuts well and is ideal for a smaller area," with another echoing, "It works well for my small front and back lawns."

Some appreciate maneuverability, but there are mixed opinions about the power and battery life.

(Image credit: Future)Should I buy the Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower?Test results

Attribute

Notes

Score

Battery Life and Runtime

struggled with longer, older grass; required recharging after about 2 hours of use

7/10

Power and Performance

performed well on short, lush grass; clean and precise cut; some limitations on tougher grass

7/10

Cutting Deck Size

well-suited for the reviewer's small to medium-sized lawn

8/10

Ease of Use

easy to set up and operate; intuitive controls; lightweight and adjustable design; straightforward grass clipping collection system

9/10

Battery Charging Time

recharged in less than 2 hours

8/10

Buy it if...

You're on a budget

The Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower has a $329.99 RRP and is regularly on sale.

You have a small/medium yard

This cordless mower can hold enough charge for cutting grass in a 1/8 acre, but nothing more.

You want the option to bag or mulch clippings

The Worx 40V 17-inch Cordless Lawn Mower can either clear away grass cuttings or return nutrients to the lawn by mulching.

Don't buy it if...

You don't have much outdoor storage

The Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower doesn't have a foldable handlebar or any easy way to store it.

Your grass grows quickly

The grass collector bag needed emptying several times during a mow of our yard, which got tiresome.

Your yard has tight spots to manoeuvre

The Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower isn't the easiest to maneuver around corners, so best to avoid if you have obstacles in your yard.

How does the Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower compare?

Another electric mower we've reviewed is the Black + Decker BEMW472BH Electric Lawn Mower. It has a much lower price point, but it also has a cord. That means a bit less range and maneuverability, but you'll never run out of charge. Read our full review to see if that fits your needs better.

We've also compared popular cordless mowers from EGO and Greenworks. Read the full comparison to see fi those brands are more your style.

If you have a yard of 200 sqft or less, it would be worth getting another battery-powered mower with a smaller cutting width. The Greenworks 40V 19" Brushless Lawn Mower (Amazon) could be more suitable. It has a cutting width of 19 inches, folds down nicely for storage, and has a more palatable list price of $279.

Owners of larger yards would benefit from a ride-on lawn mower. Read our full review of the EGO TR4204 Power+ 42" T6 Lawn Tractor for more info.

How I tested the Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower

The Worx 40V 17in Cordless Lawn Mower was used for two months in my backyard. It was delivered to my house by courier. I then set it up, charged the battery, and cut the lawn several times. I adjusted the cutting height to see how that fared on uneven ground and even ran over an apple to see how well it turned to mush. Other specific tests I carried out included recording the noise level reading and how long it took to drain and recharge the batteries.

Pollinator plants are plants that attract bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other animals that rely on and help pollinate flowering plants. Pollinators are essential for food production. Without these critters to transfer pollen, fruits won’t develop.

By attracting pollinators to your garden, you reap the benefits of a healthy, thriving ecosystem, and of course, any food you grow. Declines in pollinator populations are concerning, so any step home gardeners can take to support these critical species is helpful and depends on choosing the right plants.

What to Look for in Pollinator-Friendly Plants

Plants that attract pollinators have several characteristics:

• Food – They produce nectar and pollen that pollinators use as food sources. Nectar is a vital source of sugar for energy, while pollen provides protein. As they move from one flower to another, they spread the pollen, which allows the flowers to develop into fruits later.
• Flower Accessibility – Not all flowers are good sources of food for pollinating species. Bees and butterflies prefer flat, open flowers, like coneflowers. Hummingbirds (and bats in some areas) are drawn to tubular flowers.
• Color and Scent – Pollinator plants have bright colors and smells that attract pollinators to them. Different pollinators are drawn to certain colors, so aim for a rainbow.
• Native, Non-Hybrids – While non-native plants can attract pollinators, native species are always best. They are adapted to your region and your specific pollinator species. It’s also best to avoid or limit hybrids, even of native species. Many of these have been developed for visual appeal but have lost the ability to make nectar.
• Hosting – While flowers are the showy part of attracting pollinators to your garden, don’t forget that many species also need host plants for butterflies and moths. They need these plants for feeding during the caterpillar stage. Some species have very specific needs for host plants.

Top Pollinator Garden Plants

The best pollinator plants for your garden depend on location. These are some good examples of pollinator-friendly plants that are suited for a large range of gardening regions.

1. Coneflower

(Image credit: Ajma_pl / Getty Images)

Echinacea species are known as coneflowers. They are perennials in zones 3 through 9 and native in much of North America. They grow in attractive clumps, up to about five feet (1.5 m) tall, and bloom for a long time, providing a lot of nectar over a long period.

Coneflowers attract bees and butterflies. If you let the flowers go to seed, they’ll continue to feed native birds well into the fall. Echinacea grows best in full sun, and once established, needs little care. They are even drought-tolerant.

Powwow® Wild Berry Coneflower

2. Milkweed

(Image credit: Catherine Avilez / Shutterstock)

This is a great example of a host plant that can do a lot of good in your garden. Milkweed (Asclepias) is a perennial flowering plant that monarch butterflies use as a host. They lay eggs on milkweed plants, and the caterpillars eat the leaves when they emerge. With monarchs in decline, any addition of milkweed can help boost the population. Bees and other pollinators are also attracted to milkweed flowers.

Milkweed is easy to grow in its native range, and there are types for nearly every North American gardener. Common milkweed is native to the East and Midwest. Swamp milkweed is native to the U.S. and grows well in wet areas. Desert milkweed grows in the southwest, and narrow-leaf milkweed is native to the Pacific Northwest.

Cinderella Swamp Milkweed

3. Bee Balm

(Image credit: Clive Nichols / Getty Images)

The pollinator is right in the name of this native, flowering perennial. Bee balm blooms with large, bright flowers that are high in nectar. Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds will all seek out this plant. Native to most of North America, it is hardy in zones 3 through 9.

Bee balm is a great choice for a beginner gardener. It is very easy to grow and will even spread if you let the flowers set seed. Give it a spot with full sun or partial shade and keep the soil evenly moist.

Sugar Buzz™ Bubblegum Blast Bee Balm

4. Black-Eyed Susan

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Rudbeckia species are daisy-like flowers that bloom all summer and into fall, providing a food source for a long period of time. Black-eyed Susan plants are native all over the 48 states and hardy in zones 3 through 9. They attract butterflies and bees.

Black-eyed Susan is easy to grow. It needs full sun to thrive and bloom, but also tolerates poor, dry soil. It’s very forgiving and a good choice for beginners. Like coneflowers, the seeds support birds after the blooming season.

Goldsturm Black-Eyed Susan

5. Native Honeysuckle

(Image credit: Jim Beers / Shutterstock)

Non-native honeysuckles are invasive and damaging, but native species are attractive vines with tubular flowers that attract pollinators, including hummingbirds. Look for Lonicera species for some good options. Examples include orange honeysuckle, coral honeysuckle, and California honeysuckle.

Native honeysuckles are mostly vines, although there are some bush varieties. They mostly prefer full sun and soil that drains very well. They are low-maintenance and easy to grow once established.

Native Coral Honeysuckle "Honey Coral"

6. Lavender

(Image credit: Getty Images)

An example of a non-native species you can grow to support pollinators, lavender is not invasive or harmful. It won’t readily crowd out native species, and it is highly attractive to local bees and butterflies. Lavender attracts them with pretty purple flowers and a strong aroma.

You can grow lavender in beds or containers. They thrive in warm climates, so most types of lavender are grown as annuals in colder regions. They need soil that drains very well and tends toward dry, and plenty of bright, daily sunlight. With these ideal conditions, lavender is very easy to grow.

Southern Living® Phenomenal™ Lavender Plant

7. Sunflowers

(Image credit: Stefano Madrigali/Getty Images)

A good example of an annual to support pollinators is the sunflower. Sunflowers have large centers that are rich in pollen and easy to find for birds and bees. Iin addition to the many interesting varieties of annual sunflowers, you can also plant native perennial sunflowers.

Annual sunflowers, also known as common sunflowers, are very easy to grow from seed. They grow fast and bloom in late summer and fall. The large seed heads support native birds and mammals once the flowers are spent. Sunflowers need full sun and well-draining soil that stays consistently moist.

Mammoth Grey-Stripe Sunflower Seed

Tips for Planning a Pollinator Garden

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Choosing the right plants is the first step in growing a pollinator garden. There are other factors to consider to make it a success:

• Plant your chosen flowers in clusters, or drifts, rather than far apart. This makes it easier for pollinators to find them.
• Choose a range of plants that flower in different seasons, so that pollinators have food sources from spring into fall.
• Also include variety in color, plant height, and flower shape. This will ensure you target all the native pollinator species in your area.
• Support your pollinators in other ways, such as providing areas of cover and shelter and sources of open water. Leaving some areas of your garden wild and untidy is a great way to create natural habitats that support pollinators.
• Avoid using pesticides, which kill not only pests but also beneficial insects, like pollinators. Use natural or mechanical methods to manage pests as much as possible.

Pollinators are so important for both gardens and natural spaces and ecosystems. With many pollinator species in decline, it’s essential that gardeners step in and support these critical species. You’ll find it fun and rewarding to attract and help your native birds, bees, butterflies, and more.

Let me guess: you've got a bare fence, plain wall, or lonely pergola crying out for a climbing plant. You could spend hours weighing up the practicalities – sun or shade, fast-growing or slow, container-friendly or not – or you could take a far more whimsical approach and choose your birth month vine instead.

Now I’ll admit, I thought I’d seen every birth month trend going. Birth month flowers? Check. Birth month birds? Absolutely. Birth month trees? Of course. Birth month animals? Sign me up! But then I discovered that you can have a birth month vine, and honestly, I think this might be my favorite one yet.

Maybe it’s because there’s something wonderfully romantic about climbing plants. They don’t just sit politely in a flower bed; they scramble over old walls, soften fences, cloak brickwork in flowers, and somehow make even the smallest outdoor space feel like the entrance to a secret garden. And every vine has its own personality, which makes pairing one with your birth month surprisingly fitting.

All 12 Birth Month Vines

We’ve already embraced birth month flowers as a way to celebrate the seasons, and even birth month bugs have become a fun way to reflect different personality traits. So why not vines? Whether your climber is covered in fragrant blooms, dramatic foliage, or elegant trailing stems, each one captures a slightly different character.

Of course, no plant can truly define who you are. Think of your birth month vine in the same way you might your zodiac sign: a lighthearted way to celebrate all the wonderful qualities that make you uniquely... well, you.

So, whether you’re fiercely independent like January, adventurous like April, or endlessly optimistic like December, here’s the vine that best represents your birth month – and the special meaning behind it.

January – Sweet Autumn Clematis

(Image credit: Billy_Fam / Getty Images)

If anyone can handle the vigorous nature of sweet autumn clematis, it’s a January-born gardener. This climber doesn’t do anything by halves; it grows with confidence, flowers abundantly, and quietly takes charge of whatever support you give it. Much like January personalities, it thrives when left to get on with the job rather than being fussed over. Buy your own Sweet Autumn Clematis from Nature Hills now.

February – Wisteria

(Image credit: Susan Albert / Future)

Is there a more dreamy vine than wisteria? Its cascading blooms look like something from a fairytale, making it the perfect match for February’s imaginative spirit. There’s an artistic quality to both – the kind that turns ordinary spaces into something unforgettable. (And no, before you ask, I am not a February baby, so this is an entirely unbiased review).

The Amethyst Falls Wisteria Vine from Nature Hills is definitely the way to go here.

March – Virginia Creeper

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Virginia creeper has a way of weaving itself gracefully through a garden, creating a calming backdrop for everything around it. It doesn't need flashy flowers to make an impression, because its beauty lies in its quiet confidence and stunning seasonal transformation. That feels like a perfect match for thoughtful, compassionate March personalities, whose greatest strengths often reveal themselves gradually.

You can buy live Virginia creepers as bare root plants from CZ Grain Store.

April – Grape Vine

(Image credit: Dina Ivanova/Getty Images)

April personalities aren’t afraid to climb higher, and neither is the grape vine. Fast-growing and full of life, it rewards patience with abundant fruit while bringing lush greenery wherever it grows. It’s a vine that embraces opportunity – just like the people it’s paired with. Personally, I rate something like the pollinator-friendly Lakemont Seedless White Grape Vine from Nature Hills.

May – Climbing Hydrangea

(Image credit: Elisabeth Schittenhelm / Getty Images)

If ever there were a birth month vine that proved slow and steady wins the race, it’s climbing hydrangea. It spends its early years establishing strong roots before rewarding gardeners with breathtaking displays of lacecap blooms. May-born individuals tend to approach life in much the same way, building lasting foundations rather than chasing quick success.

Bag yourself a stunning Climbing Hydrangea from Nature Hills.

June – Trumpet Honeysuckle

(Image credit: Shepherdsatellite / Shutterstock)

Walk past a trumpet honeysuckle in bloom and you’ll quickly notice it’s rarely alone. Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds all seem to gather around it, making it one of the most sociable vines in the garden.

Nature Hills Nursery Major Wheeler Honeysuckle Vine

Beloved by hummingbirds, this non-invasive honeysuckle promises longlasting blooms aplenty.

All of that buzz and promise? Well, that feels like a perfect fit for June’s outgoing, chatty personality to me!

July – Clematis

(Image credit: Peredniankina / Getty Images)

Clematis has a wonderful habit of weaving itself through other plants, adding softness without overwhelming its companions. It doesn’t need to dominate to make an impact, and that’s exactly why this birth month vine suits the forever loving and caring nature of July personalities so well. The Sweet Summer Love Clematis from Nature Hills is a perfect fit for anyone seeking a way to honour their soul vine!

August – Confederate Jasmine

(Image credit: Satura86 / Getty Images)

Few vines know how to make an entrance quite like Confederate jasmine. The glossy evergreen foliage on this heat-loving climber is beautiful all year, but when those intensely fragrant white flowers appear, it’s impossible not to notice. August babies usually possess that same effortless ability to light up a room.

Shop Confederate Jasmine Below:

PERFECT PLANTS Confederate Jasmine Live Plant

Florida Foliage 3 Live Star Confederate Jasmine Plants

Flora's Market Confederate Jasmine (Includes Planting Kit)

September – Passionflower

(Image credit: Elena Barbaros / Shutterstock)

If any vine rewards a closer look, it's passionflower. At first glance, its blooms are simply beautiful. Pause for a moment, though, and you'll notice an extraordinary world of delicate filaments, perfectly arranged petals, and intricate patterns. It's the kind of plant that appeals to people who appreciate precision and the finer details, making it a fitting match for thoughtful September personalities who appreciate the finer details.

Pick yourself up a Passiflora Incarnata Maypop Live Plant from Urban Meadow Nursery, then, stat!

October – Climbing Rose

(Image credit: Lisa Romerein/Getty Images)

Some plants simply make everyone happy, and climbing roses are surely among them. Elegant without feeling over-the-top, they soften walls, arches, and pergolas with timeless beauty. Like October-born individuals, they have a knack for bringing harmony wherever they grow.

Try the New Dawn Climbing Rose from Nature Hills if you want to lean into your birth month vine's wonderful energy, I say. (I'll be joining you, as a fellow October baby).

November – Cascade Rosemary

(Image credit: LukeLuke68/Getty Images)

Rosemary has long symbolized remembrance and loyalty, so cascade rosemary feels like a natural partner for November personalities. It may look delicate spilling over walls or containers, but it’s remarkably resilient and quietly dependable through the seasons. It is a birth month vine that perfectly speaks to the passionate, determined, loyal winter babies among us (and it smells beautiful, too!).

Go for Blue Cascade® Rosemary from Nature Hills if you want yours studded with vivid blue flowers.

December – Hops (or Ivy)

December finishes the year with a vine that’s always reaching for something new. Whether you picture the energetic growth of hops or the adventurous spirit of ivy climbing wherever it can, both capture December’s enthusiasm for exploring the world. Always looking ahead and eager for the next adventure, these are the birth month vines for people who never like standing still. Try a Comet Hops Vine or Thorndale English Ivy from Nature Hills, and embrace the green.

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

Personally, I think life is too short to overthink plant shopping. Whether your birth month vine feels like a perfect match or not, if it fills your garden with beautiful foliage, flowers, or fragrance, that's all the justification I'd ever need.

If you need me, I'll be perusing the climbing roses...

I’m always looking for easy, budget-friendly ways to grow a better garden and one of my absolute favorite tricks is to use old cardboard boxes. Ever since I discovered the versatility of this underrated piece of packaging waste, I started recommending it to everyone I know. It seems like all the other lazy, frugal gardeners have figured it out, too.

Most of us have tons of cardboard boxes hanging around the house from all of our online orders, but instead of tossing them in the recycling bin you can recycle them in your yard and garden. They can help solve a variety of common gardening problems and, best of all, they’re free!

So whether you’re struggling with weeds, pests, or you want to expand your garden easily, cardboard is your new secret weapon. There are so many clever ways you can use cardboard in your yard, but here are my four favorite tricks to try.

1. Kill Weeds Naturally

(Image credit: Patrick Hatt / Getty Images)

Maybe you want to grow an organic garden or you just want to keep small kids and pets safe from harmful chemicals in your landscape. Either way, cardboard is your new best friend. Using cardboard to smother weeds is hands-down the most effective and safest way to kill weeds that I’ve ever found. And it t is so easy to do!

To kill weeds naturally, just lay down a flattened cardboard box over the area you want to cover. Overlap the sheets of cardboard by at least 2-4 inches (5-10 cm), then add a layer of mulch – this organic mulch from the Home Depot is a great option. Make sure mulch is at least 2 inches (5 cm) deep to slow down weeds.

Over time, the cardboard and mulch will break down and add organic material back into the soil. This method enriches soil nutrition and improves soil texture, similar to adding compost to your garden.

Depending on the severity of the weeds in your garden, you may have to reapply more mulch in midsummer. But if you put down cardboard early in spring before weeds are able to take root, then your garden should be mostly weed-free for summer!

2. Make a New Garden Bed

(Image credit: BIOSPHOTO / Alamy)

You can also use cardboard to make a new garden bed in the grass. To do this, you will follow the same method as you did above for smothering weeds. For the best results, though, you should edge out the garden bed before laying down cardboard and adding mulch.

First, use a hose or rope to trace the outline of your new garden bed. Then cut into the sod with a straight-blade shovel or an edging tool, which you can pick up on Amazon, to create the border of your new bed.

Next, lay down sheets of cardboard. You can water the cardboard with a hose or watering can to help it start decomposing faster or to keep it from blowing away on a windy day. Then add a thick layer of mulch – 4 inches (10 cm) is enough to start the process.

To plant, you can either pull away the mulch, cut a hole into the cardboard with a sharp trowel or boxcutter, and then dig a planting hole to install your desired plant. Alternatively, you can lay out your plants first, after edging the garden bed, and plant them before laying down the cardboard. After planting, carefully place sheets of cardboard around the plants and cover with mulch.

3. Create a Slug Trap

(Image credit: Andreas Häuslbetz / Getty Images)

Forget using beer to kill slugs! You can make a humane, organic slug and snail trap in your garden with a piece of cardboard. Hungry mollusks can decimate a whole crop of leafy greens overnight, but I hate trying to drown them in a bowl full of beer. It just feels mean – and it never seems to work either.

A much better way to get rid of slugs and snails is to lay a damp piece of cardboard on the ground in your garden next to the mollusks’ favorite plants. They tend to go after leafy plants like hostas and lettuce or brassicas like broccoli and cabbage.

Leave the piece of garden in your garden overnight, then in the morning pick it up and it should be covered in slugs and snails. Carefully remove the pests and toss them far away from your garden.

4. Fill Raised Beds for Free

(Image credit: Alamy)

If you just built or bought a new raised bed, then it’s time to start stocking up on cardboard. Don’t waste your money on landscape fabric to line the bottom of your beds. It just breaks down and gets tangled up with weeds, eventually causing a much bigger problem than it ever solved.

Leaving the bottom of your raised bed open to and accessible to the soil underneath also allows plants to grow deeper root systems and hold onto moisture longer, which means less watering – yay! Instead of using landscape fabric to stop weeds growing up in your beds, grab those old cardboard boxes out of your recycling bin.

Flatten out the boxes and lay them at the bottom of your raised bed. This will stop weeds from growing up through the soil once you fill your raised beds, but it will eventually break down and let your plants’ roots grow deep into the native soil.

You can use cardboard as the base layer in a hügelkultur raised bed. After placing the cardboard, layer on logs, cut branches and brush, then add compost, your preferred soil mix – I always have good results with Miracle-Gro potting soil from Home Depot – and plant. Your beds will be weed-free and thrive all summer long with less watering.

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

106 — 237 East 4th Ave., Vancouver

Type: One-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment

Size: 1,541 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,260,300

Listed for: $1,099,000

Sold for: $1,075,000

Sold on: May 29

Days on market in this listing: 14

Listing agent: Stephen Morris at Oakwyn Realty

Buyers agent: Hong Lang PREC at Royal Pacific Realty

The big sell: Boasting what must be one of the largest floorplans for a one-bedroom apartment in Vancouver, this 1,541-square-foot ground-level artist loft blends character features with an expanse of space. It forms part of Artworks, a live/work building in East Vancouver’s Mount Pleasant neighbourhood with myriad amenities all around. Inside the home there are soaring 16-foot-high ceilings, oversized windows with a southern exposure, entrances at both street level as well as through the building, and a raw industrial esthetic with exposed pipework, a metal staircase, corrugated ceilings, track lighting, and concrete floors. The two-level interior accommodates a number of layout configurations with a mezzanine level that could be a bedroom or living room, and a flex room that could be used as a bedroom instead. The unit’s monthly maintenance fee is $647.17, and it comes with parking in the underground garage.

11471 95 Ave., North Delta

Type: Three-bedroom, two-bathroom detached

Size: 1,811 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,051,900

Listed for: $1,168,000

Sold for: $1,115,000

Sold on: April 20

Days on market in this listing: 22

Listing agent: Shafik Ladha PREC at ReMax Westcoast

Buyers agent: PJ Cheema at Sutton Premier Realty

The big sell: This three-bedroom North Delta rancher was originally built in 1958 in the community’s Annieville district but has benefited from numerous updates since then. It sits on a lot size of almost 8,000 square feet with a north-south exposure and features an expanse of one-level living that encompasses the sleeping quarters on one side of the home and the reception rooms on the other. Renovations include the installation of new floors, fresh paintwork, modern light fixtures, an updated kitchen and bathrooms, stainless-steel appliances, breakfast bar seating, and a refreshed backyard. The family room has a corner fireplace for a cosy ambience, as well as access to the garden where there is a wraparound partly-covered deck overlooking the fenced yard. A single carport and driveway can accommodate a number of vehicles.

42 — 1305 Soball St., Coquitlam

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom townhouse

Size: 1,440 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,011,000

Listed for: $999,900

Sold for: $1,040,000

Sold on: May 1

Days on market in this listing: Five

Listing agent: Rod Bahari PREC at Sutton Group — West Coast Realty

Buyers agent: Sahar Saba PREC at Royal LePage Sussex

The big sell: This corner end-unit three-bedroom townhome resides in Tyneridge North, a multi-unit complex that was constructed by Polygon in Coquitlam’s Burke Mountain subdivision. According to listing agent Rod Bahari, the home features a rare side entrance with easy main floor access, plus unobstructed south-facing vistas from the living room and primary bedroom. Interior highlights include granite countertops, a powder room on the main level, new carpets throughout, blackout blinds, and updated paintwork. There is a generous-sized fenced yard complete with patio, as well as a side yard off the main floor, ample storage space, and parking for three vehicles. The unit’s monthly maintenance fee is $360.61, and the strata permits pets and rentals — both with restrictions. The home was snapped up for over the asking price in five days.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

Related

• Sold (Bought): Cambie townhouse offers resort-style living with full suite of amenities
• Sold (Bought): Lynn Valley new build showcases luxury living

Hot, dry weather is exactly what spider mites wait for. Populations explode fast, and the damage usually shows before the mites themselves do, which makes catching them early the difference between a quick fix and a lost plant.

Many people never see a spider mite. What they notice is the plant going downhill, and by then the mites have usually been at work a while. They're not even insects, strictly speaking — arachnids is the accurate word, more of a cousin to spiders than to the aphids everyone knows to watch for. The harm is in how they eat: they punch into plant cells one by one and drain them, and enough of that leaves foliage looking bleached and worn out, almost sunburned.

Hot, dry stretches are when spider mites tip from annoying into a real problem. They tear through generations in warm, dry air, sometimes a whole one inside a week, which is how a handful in June turns into a mess by August. Drought stacks it further as thirsty plants are easier to feed on. And the same heat tends to knock out the predators that might've kept things in check otherwise.

Why Hot, Dry Weather Sets Them Off

(Image credit: Tomasz Klejdysz / Getty Images)

The one gardeners tangle with most is usually the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), and it happens to love the precise weather a heat wave hands it. Warmth is the accelerant. A generation that drags out two or three weeks in cool spring air can finish in five to seven days once temperatures push into the 80s and 90s (27 to 35C) during a summer heat wave. Each female lays dozens of eggs on top of that, so the numbers snowball before you can even realize what's happening.

Low humidity is the other half of the story. Dry air means fewer mites get taken out by the fungal diseases that usually thin their ranks, so more of them pull through. Dry conditions can also encourage them.

As water levels drop, sap becomes more concentrated, potentially making feeding easier for these pests. And the predators that keep a normal summer in balance — predatory mites and lady beetle larvae mainly — have gone into hiding in a long heat spell, right when they'd be doing the most good.

How to Spot Spider Mites

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The first thing to turn up usually isn't the mites, it's the stippling. It shows up as fine, pale yellow or white dots scattered over the top of the leaves like someone dabbed them with a pin. Every speck marks a spot where cells got emptied. Leave it and it spreads, whole leaves going bronze or yellow and falling, the plant appearing dry and dusty even after a good watering.

Webbing near the bases of leaves means the numbers are already up there. That fine silk, usually found underneath the leaves and around the new tips, is the colony giving itself away.

The fastest check for spider mites: hold a white sheet of paper under a leaf you're unsure about and tap it. Specks that land and then start moving are your answer. A hand lens earns its place here, since at real size the mites can be barely visible. If you don't already have a magnifying glass laying around, you can find one cheaply on Amazon.

How to Treat a Spider Mite Infestation

(Image credit: jopstock / Getty Images)

Water is the first move, which sounds too basic to do much. But a strong blast from the hose, driven into the undersides where they gather, knocks a big share of them off and shreds the webbing while it's at it.

Repeat it every few days and the population never quite recovers its footing. It's no cure on its own. What it does is thin them out and buy some time before the stronger treatments come into play. Cranking up the humidity around the plant leans on them as well, damp air being roughly the last thing they want.

For whatever holds on, insecticidal soap from Amazon is the standard next move, smothering mites wherever it makes contact. The issue is that it only acts where the spray actually reaches, so getting up under the leaves is the bulk of the job. You can also make a DIY insecticidal soap and apply it with a small pump sprayer from Amazon handles that far better than a trigger bottle.

There's also neem oil from Amazon which disrupts feeding and breeding across a few rounds instead of all at once. Whichever way it goes, spray in the evening or under cloud, because soap or oil in full sun ends in scorched leaves.

Keep Spider Mites From Coming Back

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

A lot of prevention is just refusing to provide them the dry, dusty conditions they thrive on. A plant kept watered through a heat wave isn't stressed the same way, which makes it a tougher target from the outset. Rinsing the leaves off now and again drops the dust and nudges the humidity up, both working against them. None of it is a dramatic change in routine. Across a whole summer, though, that small routine stuff is what keeps the numbers from stacking up.

New plants deserve a second glance, since mites love to slip in on something from the nursery and spread from there. Flip a few leaves and check underneath before it joins everything else. And if the same infestation keeps returning no matter what, releasing predatory mites can sometimes settle it for good. It’s slower than grabbing a spray, but they tend to stay around for a while once they get established.

When the dog days of summer arrive, your borders may start to look tired and droopy. Those plants you joyfully tucked in or started a couple of months back are losing their vigor (after all, they’ve performed well for weeks now). And perennial mainstays that have already bloomed are leaving unsightly gaps. If you want to save your borders from this noticeable slump, it’s high time for a midsummer refresh!

To give your yard a midsummer pick-me-up, you can deadhead faded summer blooming plants, shear spent perennials for a second flush, and renew mulch if needed. But for an instant facelift, replace the worn-out annuals that are buggy, diseased, leggy, or are going to seed. At this point, you need tough yet beautiful annual bloomers that thrive in summer heat and humidity, or perennial all-stars that are famous for their heat and drought tolerance.

By introducing some select established plants now, you can bypass the fragile seedling stage and enjoy a festival of color that will take you easily and cheerfully into fall. These resilient beauties hit the ground running, instantly closing gaps and turning a weary, fading border into a vibrant, texturally rich sanctuary. Meet the rescue squad that can pump out color all the way through to the first frost.

Try These 8 Summer Rescue Plants

Planting in July is fundamentally different from planting during a cool, damp spring. The soil is likely baked, which means new root systems could be vulnerable to thermal shock and moisture loss. Before planting these instant color plants, take a moment to evaluate your USDA hardiness zone and localized microclimate. Deeply sun-baked, wide-open spaces suit heat-loving tropicals, while partially shaded gaps are best for resilient options that can bloom without full-day sunshine.

To give these floral rescue workers the best start, ground-level preparation is key. You need to create a loose, highly moisture-retentive pocket, so new plant roots can anchor instantly. Gently clear out weeds and old plant roots from the vacancy. Then use a soil diagnostic tool like the Yamron 4-in-1 (Moisture, Temperature, Light and pH Meter, available from Amazon, to check your planting site isn’t too depleted from spring's heavy feeders.

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

If your soil feels heavy, packed down, or spent, give it a quick pick-me-up with a little aged compost, plus some perlite or coarse sand for drainage. You might also like to try a scoop of Wakefield Biochar Premium Soil Conditioner from Lowe’s to add beneficial microbes at the root level. Then check out the following summer-slump rescue plants to add instant color to your garden borders.

1. Periwinkle

(Image credit: Education Images / Getty Images)

Vinca or periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus) is one plant that needs its praises sung more often. These summer rescue plants love heat and humidity, and don’t need a lot of water – and their bright flowers bloom until the first frost. Perennial in zones 9-11, they are usually treated as an annual. Plant them in full sun, where their mounding, shiny green foliage can reach 16 inches (41cm) tall and 22 inches (56cm) wide. You can buy purple Periwinkle Plants from Fast Growing Trees.

The number-one golden rule with vinca is to avoid overwatering, as these plants despise wet feet. Plant them in fast-draining soil alongside fine-textured partners like ornamental grasses or blue salvia varieties for a gorgeous contrast. And sprinkle some Espoma Organic Plant-Tone Plant Food from Amazon around the base for a gentle way to nourish that glossy foliage during intense August heatwaves.

2. Begonia Big Series

(Image credit: Artpritsadee / Getty Images)

The Begonia BIG Series (B. x benariensis) is always in bloom and grows quickly. Its succulent stems will forgive a lapse in watering. Loose clusters of single or double flowers bloom in white, pink, red, or bicolor. Foliage is dark green to bronze on compact plants reaching 12-18 inches (30-46cm) tall and wide. Flowers are also self-cleaning, so this plant doesn’t need deadheading. It tolerates sun or shade, so you can use it anywhere the garden needs a pick-me-up. Grow as an annual except in zones 10-11. You can buy red Begonia BIG plants from Cheryl’s Greenhouse.

While these begonia varieties are highly self-sufficient, they appreciate a timely feed. Scratch a handful of Espoma Organic Chicken Manure from Walmart into the surrounding soil to give them the slow-release nitrogen required to keep those heavy, fleshy stems multiplying without snapping in summer storms.

3. Crossandra

(Image credit: Magicflute002 / Getty Images)

Crossandra (C. infundibuliformis) is another great garden performer that needs more love. It sails through summer without a care, always looking pristine with its shiny, green leaves and bright orange flowers. The flower petals stack on a center spear, giving the flower layers. This rescue plant will even bloom indoors. It only needs part shade, moderate water and well draining soil. Once or twice a season, feed it with a slow-release balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or Miracle-Gro Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food from Lowe’s for continuous blooms.

Often called the firecracker flower, it brings a vivacious splash to the garden with its overlapping fan-shaped blossoms. It is an exceptional rescue choice for brightening up awkward, humid gaps. Deadhead spent spears to keep it tidy. Hardy in zones 9-11, you can treat it as an annual or bring it indoors for winter. You can buy Crossandra by the Tropical Plants of Florida Store from Amazon as potted plants.

4. Garden Phlox

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Shutterstock)

Garden phlox (P. paniculata) blooms from summer to fall on stems 2-4 feet (0.6-1.2m) tall. Its clusters of fragrant flowers remind me of hydrangea blooms. Pollinators love phlox, especially butterflies. This rescue plant just needs full sun to keep powdery mildew at bay. In hot climates, partial shade is fine. Hardy in zones 4-8, phlox prefers moist, fertile, well-drained soil. You can buy Coral Creme Drop Garden Phlox from Nature Hills.

Plant towards the middle or back of borders, pairing with spiky coneflowers or golden rudbeckia for a classic cottage look. Water deeply at the base, and feed every fortnight with Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon to deliver rich organic trace minerals that maximize blossom size and perfume strength.

5. Coleus

(Image credit: MagicFlute002 / Getty Images)

Coleus (C. scutellarioides) is perfect for instant color in a partially shady area. Heights average 1-2 feet (0.3-0.6m), and their colorful foliage is a glorious combination of green, pink, chartreuse, cream, burgundy, red, yellow, or purple. Pinch off the flower spikes as they appear, so the plant will focus on leafy growth. I often leave a few spikes on one plant for the hummingbirds. For a burgundy splash, buy Coleus ‘Dipt in Wine’ by the Plant Nook Store from Amazon as starter plants.

These plants need fertile, moist soil. They are hardy in zones 10-11, so most folks treat them as annuals. If you want to overwinter your favorite coleus, take cuttings in fall and root them in water or potting soil. To prevent lower leaf drop and downy mildew, mist the foliage with Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart.

6. Sunflowers

(Image credit: Orthosie / Getty Images)

Sunflowers (Helianthus x annuus 'TMSNBLEV01') are summer icons, especially when it is hot and dry. Variety SunBelievable ‘Brown Eyed Girl’ is a great summer rescue plant, as it doesn’t set seed. Instead, it produces flowers continuously until the first frost. Its multi-branched stems grow up to 3 feet (0.9m) tall and wide. Plant in rich, well-draining soil in full sun and only water when the soil is dry. You can buy Sunflower SunBelievable Brown Eyed Girl Helianthus by Monrovia from Armstrong Garden Centers, as potted plants.

What makes this hybrid an unparalleled rescue option is its non-stop branching habit. Traditional single-stem sunflowers are a one-and-done show, but this bloomer fills border vacancies in no time and keeps going. Topdress the planting zone with Worm Bliss Premium Earthworm Castings from Amazon. This improves moisture holding capacity, while releasing a steady stream of essential nutrients.

7. Coneflowers

(Image credit: Mieneke Andeweg van Rijn / Getty Images)

Coneflowers (Echinacea spp.) are quintessential rescue plants for heat tolerance in high summer. Purple coneflower is great for the pollinator garden, while new forms and hybrids feature white, yellow, red, pink, orange, and multi-color blooms, many with compact forms. They bloom continuously until first frost, especially if deadheaded. Hardy in zones 3-9, they thrive in moist, well-drained soil. Buy PowWow Coneflowers from Fast Growing Trees for vibrant drought-tolerant color.

For ultra summer grit, compact cultivars like Cheyenne Spirit or Sombrero offer thick, sturdy stems. When introducing it in summer, just don’t let the rootball dry out. Add a scoop of Down to Earth Fish Bone Meal from Amazon for rapid root establishment, and keep it watered deeply twice a week until it settles into its new home.

8. Pentas

(Image credit: Pakin Songmor / Getty Images)

Pentas (P. lanceolata) are some of my favorite pollinator plants and my yard is never without them. Their colorful clusters of flowers bloom from spring to frost, and attract plenty of butterflies and hummingbirds. Pentas prefers moist, well-drained soil, but are drought tolerant once established, and happy in full sun or partial shade. Typically grown as an annual, these rescue plants are hardy in zones 10-11. You can buy vivid purple Pentas Lanceolata from Amazon.

Known affectionately as Egyptian starclusters, their striking flower heads are made up of dozens of tiny stars, creating a rich texture in front-of-the-border displays. Add a bit of micronutrient-dense Dr. Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Walmart into the surrounding soil at planting time for seamless, gorgeous growth.

Midsummer Maintenance

(Image credit: Molly Shannon / Shutterstock)

To keep perennials blooming, shear back early bloomers like catmint, yarrow, salvia, and bee balm for a second flush. Some varieties, like Walker’s Low catmint, will continue to bloom whether or not they are cut back. You should also remove any dead or damaged stems you see.

Deadheading will encourage annuals like cosmos and zinnias to repeat-bloom rather than set seed. Perennials such as coneflower, blanket flower and phlox also benefit. Phlox is sneaky, though: when the petals first fade and drop off, new buds appear. So wait until you don’t see any more new buds before trimming phlox. Use a sharp pair of shears, scissors or snips for clean cuts. We love Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon for their ability to slide between tight nodes.

A fresh sprinkling of mulch will help the plants retain moisture. Add a two-inch (5cm) layer of organic mulch, such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon, so your rescue team stays happy, hydrated, and blooming beautifully. It’s best not to fertilize during the hottest part of summer, unless a plant is showing signs it lacks nutrition, such as yellow leaves. Revamping the yard now will carry it through summer into fall so it keeps looking lush and lovely.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox?

Cyclospora has been all over the news this summer. An outbreak has affected thousands of people across more than thirty states, with investigators pointing to commercial lettuce and salad greens. The parasite behind it, Cyclospora cayetanensis, spreads through fresh produce that has picked up traces of human waste somewhere along the way – which raises an obvious question for anyone who grows their own food. Can homegrown vegetables carry Cyclospora?

The reassuring part is that the trouble rarely starts in the backyard. A home vegetable garden sits at the low-risk end here, because it skips much of the commercial supply chain – the industrial farms and shared packing equipment a bagged salad passes through before the shelf. You decide what water touches the leaves and what goes into the soil.

But while a homegrown salad beats a store-bought one right now, it's not totally risk-free. Check your gardening practices and follow these simple habits to keep your harvest clean and safe to eat.

How Cyclospora Spreads, and Why the Garden Is Lower-Risk

Cyclospora doesn't pass straight from person to person. An infected person sheds it in their stool, and the parasite needs at least 1–2 weeks to mature in the environment before it can infect anyone else. That lag is why contamination travels through water and soil rather than a quick touch. Raw produce is the usual vehicle, and it's the uncooked crops that keep turning up. Leafy greens lead the list. Fresh herbs like basil and cilantro make the list too, along with soft fruit like raspberries.

A store-bought salad has already been through shared irrigation water and packing equipment and a long refrigerated haul by the time it hits the bag. Pick your own, and you skip nearly all of that. Cooking shuts the door the rest of the way – according to NYC Health, Cyclospora is killed at around 158°F (70°C), so a stir-fry or a pot of soup poses almost no risk. Raw food is where the care needs to go. Salad and berries never meet heat, so the real job is keeping the parasite out of the bed to begin with.

How to Protect Home Vegetables from Cyclospora

Cyclospora is spread through food or contaminated water, so the risk in a vegetable garden is not just about hygiene – it can also come from unsafe manure, contaminated water, or poor sanitation practices. Community gardens can be a little higher risk if shared water, tools, compost, or hygiene standards are weak, but the same food-safety rules apply in home gardens too.

1. Only Use Water From a Clean Source

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The biggest garden risk is irrigation water drawn from a creek or pond that could be catching sewage overflow or septic seepage. Stick to tap water or a tested well. A two-gallon watering can filled at the tap, such as this Expert Gardener design from Walmart, keeps surface water off your leaves.

If you collect rainwater in a barrel, know that rooftop runoff can carry other biological contaminants, including from bird droppings. For edible crops, this water should not be treated as automatically safe unless the system is well maintained and the water is used in a way that avoids contaminating produce. However, it's well worth using a rainwater barrel to water ornamental beds. This RTS Home Accents ECO Rain Barrel from Amazon holds 50 gallons.

2. Check Composting Practices

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If contaminated vegetables went into a home compost pile, the pile could be exposed to Cyclospora, and with slow/cold composting, pathogens may not be destroyed. Hot composting that reaches and holds high heat is what breaks pathogens down, and a Reotemp compost thermometer from Amazon shows whether the pile is getting there. A cold pile that never heats up should stay clear of food crops.

Never use raw human waste – sometimes called night soil – in the garden. It can be a direct route for the parasite to reach your crops. Even if you have a composting toilet, it's not automatically safe to use it to grow food, so don't risk using it anywhere near vegetables that grow directly in the soil.

3. Wash Your Hands!

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This one is less about the produce than the person handling it. A gardener who's picked up the parasite can carry it into the plot without realizing. Soap and water before you harvest, and again before anything hits a cutting board, shuts that door. It's simple insurance for a habit you half-do already.

4. Rinse Crops Under Running Water

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Rinse everything thoroughly under running water before it reaches a plate. There's no need to use soap or produce washes. Scrubbing firmer produce with a brush, like this OXO vegetable brush from Amazon, lifts more off the skin than a quick splash.

Rinsing lowers the risk but won't fully remove Cyclospora, which clings tightly – so treat it as one layer, not a guarantee.

5. Keep Harvested Crops Off Dirty Surfaces

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Once picked, keep produce off the ground and away from tools or anything that's touched soil or untreated water. A clean basket or bowl beats resting the harvest on a potting bench. Those last few feet are easy to overlook, and a common spot for clean produce to pick up what it just dodged.

6. Store and Chill Promptly

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Get tender crops into the fridge soon after picking. Greens and herbs hold up far better cold than sitting out, and berries too. Chilling won't kill Cyclospora – it just slows spoilage and keeps other bacteria from multiplying while the produce waits. One more thing: hold off on washing until you're ready to eat, since produce stored damp breaks down faster.

Extra Cover: Cook or Peel What You Can

Washing is the everyday line of defense, but heat and a paring knife go further. Cyclospora can't survive proper cooking, so anything that goes into a hot pan or the oven stops being a risk – handy for crops that work either raw or cooked, like kale or green beans. Peeling helps too, lifting off the surface layer where the parasite would sit. Neither does much for a fresh salad, so sourcing and a good rinse still carry the load for raw produce.

Spot the Symptoms

Cyclosporiasis usually surfaces about a week after exposure, and the giveaway is watery diarrhea that can come and go for weeks if untreated. Appetite tends to fade alongside it. Cramping and bloating are common, nausea comes and goes, and the tiredness lingers. Healthy adults often ride it out, but it tends to relapse, part of why it's treated rather than waited out.

A course of the antibiotic trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole usually clears it, so anyone with persistent watery diarrhea – especially with signs of dehydration – should see a doctor and mention the outbreak, since diagnosis needs a specific stool test that isn't run by default.

Frequently Asked QuestionsCan lettuce from my garden make me sick?

Very unlikely. Homegrown lettuce only carries Cyclospora if it was introduced through contaminated water or human waste, both of which you control in your own beds. The outbreak in the news involves commercial lettuce, not backyard crops.

Can I get Cyclospora from animal manure or pets?

No – this parasite is specific to humans, so pets and livestock neither spread it nor pick it up from your garden. Animal manure carries its own risks, like E. coli, and should still be composted well, but Cyclospora isn't one of them.

Does vinegar remove Cyclospora?

No solid evidence backs a vinegar rinse for removing the parasite, and it's no substitute for cooking or careful sourcing. Plain running water does about as much, so keep the vinegar for the dressing.

Woohoo! The very first dahlia blooms are freshly out and damn, aren’t they gorgeous? But July is not the time to sit back, relax and enjoy the display. July is a hard-working month for dahlia plants, and how well you look after them now determines how many flowers you get, how fabulously big they grow, and how long into fall the display lasts.

In July, dahlias are busy growing stems, leaves, flowers and buds, which uses up a heap of energy and moisture. They’re also dealing with long, hot days – and while all that sunshine fuels growth, high temperatures stress the plants. There’s no telling how long the current heatwave will last for, making these vital July gardening jobs to keep dahlias happy and healthy all the more important.

Why? Because while your dahlia plants will probably go ahead and flower for the next month or so, even with minimal care, they’ll quickly give up blooming once the first flush is over. Nurture your plants in July, however, and they’ll continue flowering into fall with far bigger, more beautiful blooms. Thanks to this summer’s heat, many dahlia varieties are already flowering with deeper, more intense colors this year. So, take care of these vital gardening jobs in July and this could be your most spectacular dahlia display, ever. Here's what to do with dahlias in July…

1. Water Deeply

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When it comes to what dahlias need in July, moisture tops the list. While it’s important not to overwater newly planted tubers as they can easily rot, now your plants are established they need plenty of moisture. In the peak of summer, if there’s no rainfall, you need to be watering dahlias growing in the ground around three times a week. Container-grown dahlias are likely to need watering daily or, in extreme temperatures, twice a day.

Water the soil at the base of the plants, rather than the plants themselves, to prevent fungal issues. Opt to irrigate first thing in the morning and you'll reduce evaporation so more of that precious moisture reaches the roots. If your mulch is thinning by midsummer, you may also want to consider re-mulching to lock that moisture in the ground. It’ll keep those tubers a little cooler too.

2. Fertilize Regularly

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As soon as you spot flowerbuds, or if your plant is already actively flowering, you should be feeding dahlias once every 7-14 days. A soluble feed gives plants an instant boost, which makes it far easier to control the nutrient supply. Because here’s the thing that most home-growers miss: if a flowering plant is fertilized in a heatwave, it's going to need more moisture to facilitate the extra growth the feed fuels. If you provide that moisture, great. But if you don’t, the plant is put under a lot of unnecessary stress.

In the current heatwave conditions, with plenty of states already under a hosepipe ban, it’s vital to consider this before fertilizing. It’s best to reduce fertilizing in extreme temperatures, and using a soluble feed makes it easy to adjust feeding levels week by week. And remember, while you should never under-dilute plant food, you can absolutely over-dilute it to provide a more gentle nutrient boost.

To fuel abundant flowers at this time of the year, you need a feed that’s high in potassium. Use all-round flower food such as Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster, available from Amazon, or a specialized dahlia feed such as TPS Plant Food Dahlia Fertilizer, also available from Amazon. If you’re growing tomatoes and already have a liquid tomato fertilizer such as Espoma Organic Tomato!, available from Amazon, you can use that, too – it’s also high in potassium and will do a similar job.

3. Deadhead Fading Flowers

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

Snipping off fading blooms will keep your dahlia focused on growing more flowers rather than producing seed. Deadheading regularly, every few days, is an important part of July dahlia care and makes a huge difference to how many blooms a plant will produce. So, if you're wondering how to get more dahlia flowers, don't skip this task: the quicker you remove those spent blooms once the petals start to fade, the more energy you'll redirect.

Use a pair of bypass pruning shears such as these from Amazon to deadhead dahlias and, if you haven’t sharpened yours in a while, get a razor-edge on those blades with a sharpener such as this $7 tool from Amazon. Trace the stem of the faded flower down and cut just above the next bud, pair of leaves or main stem. This is far easier for the plant to deal with than cutting higher and leaving a bare stem end that could rot.

The trickiest part of deadheading dahlias is knowing what’s a fully spent bloom and what’s a new bud, because they can both look very similar – and you seriously don't want to remove all the flowers yet to come! It's easy to tell the difference once you know how, though.

New buds are round, tight, feel firm when you squeeze them and may have a glimmer of color at their centre, like this:

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Spent flowers are more pointed and cone-shaped, feel slightly squishy when you squeeze them, may have brown tones, and look like this:

(Image credit: Shutterstock)4. Make Quick Earwig Traps

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Midsummer is prime earwig season and these critters are well known for chewing holes in dahlia foliage and ruining blooms. You probably won’t spot the earwigs themselves as they’re nocturnal, but the tell-tale signs are uneven holes or ragged edges on leaves, and shredded buds. You might also see dark earwig poop, known as frass, on the leaves.

If you don't mind this damage or it's minimal, don't worry about it – earwigs are useful bugs to have in your garden ecosystem as they eat aphids, mites and juvenile snails. If you want to curtail the damage, however, it’s simple to catch the culprits with homemade earwig traps.

Stuff dampened straw into small plant pots or plastic cups and upend these on bamboo canes pushed into the ground around your dahlias (watch out for the tubers, though). Earwigs will crawl into these cozy, dark spaces after feeding so, in the morning, it’s a simple task to rehome them, and you don't have to move them far. Though they have wings, earwigs rarely travel more than 100 feet.

5. Prune Dahlias For Huge Blooms

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If you fancy growing a few fabulously big dinnerplate dahlias, then there’s an extra job to be done – but it’s by no means an essential part of summer dahlia care. Disbudding involves removing sidebuds on a stem to force the plant into putting all its energy into growing the central flower. And the results can be incredible! Disbudding dahlias also brings longer stems for cut flowers.

You’ll get far fewer blooms overall if you disbud but, if you want to grow a few showstopper cut flowers for a special occasion, or just try something different with your dahlias this year, it’s worth it. You don’t need to disbud all the stems on an established plant, so why not try it with one or two stems and leave the rest?

Disbudding is a quick and easy job. Look at a dahlia stem and you’ll typically see it has a larger central bud and some side buds either side. Simply pinch or snap off all the side buds – do this in early morning when the plant is fully hydrated and the rigid stems snap far more easily.

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Give your dahlia the care it needs in July, and it will reward you by flowering abundantly all through summer and fall, till the first frost. And that’s a heck of a lot of beautiful blooms for your efforts!

How does Pamela Anderson ’s garden grow?

This summer, it is growing bountifully, as the Hollywood star shared in a recent Instagram post from her family compound in Ladysmith on Vancouver Island .

“Look what’s growing in my garden,” said Anderson , as she turned her camera on a large garden filled with an abundance of vegetables.

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The video isn’t the first time Anderson, a vegan and the co-founder and co-owner of the Sonsie skincare brand, has taken her fans into her island oasis.

The early stages of the garden were chronicled during Anderson’s HGTV series Pamela’s Garden of Eden. The two-season series followed the actor/producer and former Playmate as she renovated the British Columbia waterfront property purchased from her grandmother decades ago. You can stream the series on Hulu.

Anderson’s garden tour post comes just a couple of weeks after the Baywatch, The Last Showgirl and Naked Gun star attended her and ex-husband Mötley Crüe drummer Tommy Lee’s 28-year-old son Dylan Lee’s marriage to interior designer Paula Bruss in a garden ceremony in Saint-Tropez, France.

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Anderson, who is also an ambassador for brands including Pandora and Aerie , isn’t the only Hollywood star showing off the province this summer.

Transformers star Josh Duhamel recently posted a video to his Instagram account from the base of the Fraser Canyon at Hell’s Gate while Your Friends and Neighbors star James Marsden posted a gallery of images on Instagram that fans scouted as being taken on and around Vancouver Island.

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