Organic Gardening News

Early October is peak flowering time for most dahlias, and the right care now will influence not just how many more blooms you enjoy into fall, but the health of their tubers you’ll soon be digging up to store over winter. Dahlias thrive during this season’s warm days and cool nights, and will reward you with spectacular and abundant blooms. But if you want to enjoy the same dazzling show next year, you need to strike a balance between pushing for more flowers and prepping those tubers for storage. So, if you're wondering what dahlias need in October, balanced care is critical.

Fall dahlia care also depends heavily on your growing region and climate but for most gardeners, early October should bring a focus on cleaning up plants, preventing new green growth, supporting tall stems, and monitoring and managing pests and diseases. Get it right and you’ll get plenty more blooms as well as plump tubers full of energy that’ll overwinter well, ready for a repeat performance next year.

Ready? Let’s dive into what to do with dahlias in October.

1. Keep Watering, But Don’t Overdo It

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Part of the fall balance for dahlias is irrigation levels. While plants are still putting out impressive blooms, they’ll be using plenty of water, but their tubers are also preparing to toughen up for winter – and too much moisture means those roots get soft and won't store well. Add rainfall into the mix and there’s even more to consider, especially if you're growing dahlias in containers.

The best guideline is to water your dahlias if it doesn’t rain, once the soil has dried out. But then water deeply. A rain gauge such as this pretty precipitation gauge stake from Amazon is a really simple but effective way to keep an eye on how much rainfall your plants are getting, so you can water accordingly. Irrigate at soil level, never over the plants, and try to avoid getting foliage and stems too wet.

As October proceeds, gradually cut back on how much water you provide so the tubers start to toughen their skins.

2. Deadhead Flowers

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As long as you keep removing spent blooms, you’ll direct the plant’s energy into growing more blooms rather than seed production. To deadhead dahlias, cut the faded flower stem back to the next branching point. Of course, you don’t need to wait for the petals to fade before cutting, as now you can be enjoying cut flowers as your reward for all your hard work. Snipping freshly opened blooms will also encourage plants to continue producing more.

With some dahlia varieties, the spent flowers look very similar to new buds. If you're not sure which is which, give it a gentle squeeze: fresh about-to-open buds will feel firm to the touch while spent blooms will feel a little mushy.

Of course, if you plant to collect seeds, leave some of the flowers in place.

3. Support Stems if Needed

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All these heavy blooms can start to weigh down the stems, especially if you're growing dinnerplate dahlias, and it’s common to see plants splay at this time of the year. If you don’t already have them in place, add stakes to help top-heavy stems stay upright. Not only do vertical stems look better, broken stems can create wounds that are vulnerable to disease.

Bamboo canes will do the job just fine, but make sure you buy poles that are long enough, like these reusable 5' support stakes from Walmart, as you’ll need to push a quarter of the length into the ground. Tie individual stems into the stakes using soft twist ties such as these from Amazon that won’t cut into the plant material, or simply fashion a cradle around the whole plant with canes and twine.

If you do have supports in place, check them and make adjustments as needed, especially after heavy rain or windy weather.

4. Watch Out for Pests and Disease

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As part of regular maintenance, you should be looking out for signs of pest infestations or diseases taking root in your dahlias. Do this throughout the growing season, but especially now, as you want your plants to stay healthy as they build up energy and tough, healthy tubers for winter storage.

Some of the typical pests you’re looking for in October include spider mites and aphids, both of which feed on dahlias. Pests are less of a concern this time of year as growth is wrapping up anyway, but it’s still worth removing them with a spray of water or use an organic neem oil spray such as Bonide Captain Jack’s Neem Oil, available from Lowe’s, to keep your plants looking tidy for the rest of the season.

Increasing rain and lower temperatures in fall can increase the prevalence of powdery mildew and leaf spot. While there’s no need to worry, if you spot a white dust-like coating to leaves, it’s best to remove them to reduce the amount of infected plant matter in your garden beds. A collapsible waste bag like Fiskars 10-Gallon Yard Waste Bag, available from Amazon, makes it easy to transport them straight to the trash, as you don’t want these fungal spores in your compost bin.

5. Gradually Stop Fertilizing

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Feeding dahlias as we head deeper into fall pushes the plant to make new growth rather than harden off its tubers ready for storage. Particularly, avoid the temptation to use up any high-nitrogen fertilizer which promotes leafy growth. If you're gardening in a warmer zone and still feeding to promote flowering, make sure the fertilizer is designed specifically for that job. Look for a low- or zero-nitrogen feed such as TPS Flower Fertilizer, available from Amazon, that’s rated 0-10-10 or 5-10-10 – the first number indicates nitrogen levels, so this must be lower than the second two numbers that indicate potassium and phosphorus.

Aim to stop fertilizing completely 4-6 weeks before your first expected frost date, to give your plant time to mature its tubers.

6. Prepare for the First Hard FrostIf You Garden in a Cold Zone

In zones 7 and below, you’ll need to dig up and store your dahlia tubers over the winter. Depending on the zone you garden in, your first frost could hit in October, so make sure you’ve got everything ready. Coco coir such as this from Walmart in a cardboard box makes for cheap and effective storage.

Always wait until the first good frost has killed the stems above the ground, as this triggers the plant to send a rush of sugars and starches down into the tubers. Not only does this mean lots of energy stored for next year, it tells the plant to enter dormancy and mature the tubers, when they’ll store better.

It’s best to leave tubers in the ground to rest for 1-2 weeks after this frost to allow this process, unless you suspect the soil will freeze, when tubers will die, or rainfall is heavy and incessant, when roots may start to rot.

(Image credit: Getty Images)If You Garden in a Warm Zone

If you live in the warmer climates of zones 8-11, you can safely leave dahlia tubers in the ground as long as you have well-draining soil. If you have a frost, wait a week or two to allow the energy transfer into the tubers then cut stems down to around 3-4 inches and pile a 5-inch layer of mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch, available from The Home Depot, over the soil to act as a cozy duvet.

In frost-free zones, cut stems by mid-December at the latest to ensure plants rest, and there’s no need to mulch.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As you look ahead, adjust your plans to the weather as temperatures and rainfall can vary widely in fall. Keep enjoying those spectacular October blooms but remember you need to start caring for the tubers, too, if you want next summer's display to be equally stunning.

Stock Up On Showstopper Varieties

October is a great month to buy dahlia tubers as you'll be able to find more unusual varieties and dahlia types that are usually snapped up months before the first hint of spring. Most specialist dahlia retailers open for pre-orders in October then send tubers out in spring, though it's fine to physically buy tubers now as you can safely store them for spring planting.
Take a look at Dutch Grown's impressive dahlia collection of over 150 cultivars for inspiration, and here are just a few varieties new for 2027 to give you a taste of the incredible flower shapes and color combos now available.

painterly petals

2 Marble Ball Tubers

Dreamy color combo

2 Palmares Tubers

fluff-ball blooms

2 Caproz Josephine Tubers

As a home grower with several decades of hard-earned wins and lessons learned behind me, I know that the right greenhouse can fundamentally transform what you can achieve as a gardener. It can add weeks (if not months) to sowing and growing timelines and harvesting opportunities, and let you regulate your plant’s environment in critical ways. The right greenhouse lets you safeguard tender perennials through freezing winters, nurture delicate seedlings from seed, and cultivate heat-loving crops that would otherwise struggle in your local climate. It also offers a unique sanctuary, a weather-proof haven, and a wonderful space in which to play.

However, choosing the right greenhouse is a structural decision, not an impulse purchase. There are so many tempting greenhouse ideas that look amazing in photos – but how do you know which is really right for you? Unlike buying a terracotta pot or a garden bench, adding a greenhouse to your yard means you are in charge of a functioning, climate-controlled ecosystem. A model that thrives in a sheltered suburban yard might buckle under Midwestern prairie winds or turn into a furnace in a hot Southern summer. Falling in love with a particular shape or design without considering location, insulation, ventilation, or foundation stability is one of the quickest routes to buyer’s remorse.

To make an investment that brings joy for decades, you need to balance your personal growing ambitions with the realities of your space, budget, and local weather. Whether you are seeking a compact pop-up shelter to start tomato seedlings, a durable polycarbonate kit for family food production, or an elegant glasshouse that serves as a centerpiece for your backyard, this masterclass guide breaks down every critical factor to help you choose with complete confidence.

Key Buying Considerations

This buying guide aims to take the sting out of many of those key questions you'll definitely be having, before you reach for your wallet – providing you with a useful foundation for your growing space, based on an honest assessment of the following fundamentals:

1. Sizing & Location: Identify usable growing space, door clearance, and staging bench footprint. Match your yard to one of the core styles.
2. Material & Glazing: Balance insulation, sunlight and impact resistance, with a consideration of the benefits of traditional glass, twin-wall polycarbonate, and heavy-duty polyethylene film.
3. Climate Control & Airflow: Make sure you prevent crop scorch with smart ventilation, airflow circulation, and smart seasonal shading.
4. Foundations & Wind Defense: Select the correct grounding method to keep lightweight aluminum frames anchored against storms.
5. Retailers, Kits & Brands: Navigate budget pop-ups vs. heavy-duty kits, warranties, and trusted manufacturers.
6. Utility & Permitting Realities: Plan access to outdoor water and electricity for heat mats or timers. Verify local zoning, HOA bylaws, and property setback rules.

1. Size, Style & Placement

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Where you put your greenhouse is often key to deciding on the right model. Selecting the ideal site requires balancing sunlight, shelter, and everyday convenience, based on your regional climate and your USDA growing zone. A common error is placing a greenhouse in a forgotten corner of the yard, where it quickly becomes an out-of-sight chore to maintain.

Northern gardeners need maximum exposure to natural light, positioning the ridge along an east-west axis to capture low winter sun and trap precious early spring solar radiation, while sheltering the frame from prevailing north winds. Southern and humid-zone growers face the opposite challenge. Professional horticulture expert Bethany Lakatos points out the need to balance full winter light with protection from intense afternoon summer heat.

"If you have a space with a deciduous tree that can shade your greenhouse on summer afternoons, this will also allow maximum sunlight when the tree is dormant,” says Bethany, who works at Trees.com. “However, before moving ahead with your plans, assess the tree for health: if you see any weak limbs, large wounds, or if the tree is a weak-wooded type, contact an arborist first.” As Bethany notes, in Southern climates, hurricane season and severe thunderstorms can lead to downed limbs and trees that may damage structures below their canopy.

(Image credit: Тодорчук Екатерина / Getty Images)

Equally critical across all regions is siting your structure near existing household water and electrical supplies. Running hoses across long distances or relying on distant outlets creates unnecessary friction during busy spring seed-starting routines. "I placed my greenhouse close enough to my house so I can run an extension cord out there if needed," explains Trisha Nieder, master gardener and regenerative farmer at Nieder Farms. "Outside of electricity, you’re definitely going to need water, so having a greenhouse set up next to your home where you can easily connect a hose to an outdoor faucet makes things far easier when it’s time to water."

When estimating size, most first-time buyers underestimate the floor space required. Remember, a greenhouse is not merely storage for potted plants; it is a working environment that must accommodate staging benches, soil bags, watering cans, and comfortable human movement. An 8x10-foot footprint may sound spacious on paper, but once you deduct a central walkway and staging benches on either side, space fills up rapidly.

The ground is the final location decision. Groundwork options range from simple, free-draining gravel beds over weed membrane to timber mudsills, concrete pads, or raised brick knee-walls. Skimping on ground prep or building over uneven surfaces introduces major thermal and structural vulnerabilities. "Our biggest rookie mistake was trying to build our first greenhouse with a wooden floor made of pallets because the ground was so uneven," reveal Staci and Jeremy Hill, homesteading experts and co-authors of The Preserver’s Garden, available from Amazon. "This put air between the ground and greenhouse, which made it a lot colder inside."

Choosing the Right Size

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How much greenhouse space do you need? “The bottom line is that your goals and reasoning for having a greenhouse will determine both the size and layout," says Staci and Jeremy Hill. Thinking about your primary growing needs will help you to determine the right dimensions (which in turn helps with picking a model).

• Seasonal Seed Starting & Urban Yards: Do you just need space for 1-2 potting benches or 12-18 seed flats for spring seed starts and hardening off tender crops? In this case, a compact mini with a 6x4 ft to 6x8 ft (1.8x1.2 m to 1.8x2.4 m) footprint gives 24-48 sq ft (2.2-4.5 sq m) for growing with 2-2.5 ft (60-75 cm) walking space.
• Year-Round Vegetables & Family Homesteads: Ideal for family food production, easily fitting staging benches, 6-8 mature vine crops, and overwintering pots. Go for a mid-size option that is 8x10 ft to 8x12 ft (2.4x3 m to 2.4x3.7 m), delivering 80-96 sq ft (7.4- 8.9 sq m) of usable space around a 3ft (90 cm) central walkway.
• Serious Food Producing & Seed-Saving: High-volume harvests need room for double-tier benching, floor-planted beds, thermal water heat barrels, and a worktable. This requires a large high-yield option with a 10x14 ft to 10x16 ft (3x4.3 m to 3x4.9 m) layout, offering 140-160 sq ft (13-14.9 sq m) of working space and a wide 3.5 ft (1.05 m) walkway.
• Multipurpose Sanctuaries: Do you want room for multi-zone crop rotation, rare tropical collections, and integrated seating? Choose an estate-scale 12x20 ft (3.7x6.1 m) structure for over 240 sq ft (22.3 sq m) of growing area and a generous 4 ft (1.2 m) main aisle.

Key Greenhouse Styles

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Glancing online can give you a mass of riches in terms of greenhouse shapes and sizes, but most fall into one of the following categories:

• Pop-Up & Soft-Shell Tunnels: Lightweight polyethylene film supported by tubular steel or flexible hoop frames. Perfect for renters, balcony growers, and seasonal seed starting, these temporary structures capture quick solar heat without requiring permanent footings or site modifications.
• Lean-To & Wall-Mounted: Designed to anchor directly against an existing brick wall or house facade. Lean-tos maximize small yard footprints while absorbing daytime heat and radiating warmth back into the growing space overnight.
• Freestanding A-Frame (Gable): The classic rectangular walk-in greenhouse featuring straight vertical sidewalls and a sloped roof. A-frames deliver maximum head clearance, uniform light distribution, and symmetrical interior layout for double-sided staging benches.
• Gothic Arch & Cathedral High-Peak: Characterized by a curved, pointed roof engineered for severe climates, these models make lovely snow and wind deflectors. The steep Gothic angle prevents heavy snow accumulation by allowing snow to slide off while deflecting wind.
• Victorian & T-Shaped Pavilions: Multi-gable glasshouses featuring high vertical eaves, decorative cresting, and expansive central entry porchways. These structures function as both high-volume growing environments and elegant garden sanctuaries for outdoor living.

(Image credit: Getty Images)2. Frame Material & Glazing

Choosing the right structural frame and glazing panel dictates how well your greenhouse will retain heat, survive winter storms, and resist daily wear. For structural framing, home growers can typically choose between rot-resistant cedar wood, heavy-duty galvanized steel, or lightweight powder-coated aluminum. While timber offers natural insulation and a rustic aesthetic, aluminum remains the top choice for modern kits due to its zero-maintenance, rust-proof longevity.

"When selecting frame materials, long-term durability and resistance to moisture should be your top priorities," emphasizes Shane Pliska, biophilia authority and President of Planterra Conservatory in Michigan. "Powder-coated aluminum frames offer an exceptional balance of structural strength and weather resistance without requiring seasonal sealants or rust treatments, making them ideal for high-humidity growing environments."

(Image credit: Olga Rolenko / Getty Images)

As you evaluate different glazing materials, make sure you balance aesthetic clarity against thermal efficiency, impact safety, and light diffusion:

• Twin-Wall Polycarbonate: This features cellular air pockets for superior thermal insulation and high impact resistance against hail. As Bethany Lakatos points out, "Polycarbonate panels filter harsh solar rays, providing built-in shade protection that prevents young crops from getting scorched while holding onto heat overnight."
• Horticultural Glass: Offers unmatched visual transparency and a classic aesthetic that never degrades or turns opaque over time. However, on the flip side, it can be heavy and costly to install, and it provides minimal frost insulation.
• Polyethylene Film: An ultra-affordable covering, ideal for temporary polytunnels and starter setups. While great as a seasonal budget option, it requires replacement every 3-5 years due to UV breakdown.

While clear glass looks beautiful in a landscape, diffused light through twin-wall polycarbonate often creates a superior growing climate inside the structure by scattering sunlight into lower leaf canopies. "Many growers love the traditional look of glass, but twin-wall polycarbonate is far more forgiving and practical for everyday home gardening," advises Anna Ohler, plant expert and co-founder of Bright Lane Gardens in northern Michigan. "It diffuses direct sunlight, so your plants don't scorch on hot afternoons, it retains heat better during cold spring nights, and it won't shatter if a stray branch or storm debris hits it."

To protect your investment and maintain a balanced climate during peak summer heat, managing direct UV exposure is critical. To extend panel life and prevent midday heat scorch, it’s a good idea to pair your build with a pre-grommeted shade cloth, such as the Agfabric 50% Sunblock Shade Cloth, available from Amazon, which provides instant, affordable cooling in midsummer without blocking the essential light your crops need.

3. Climate Control & Airflow Strategy

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Managing internal temperatures and air movement is what keeps a greenhouse from becoming a stifling oven in July or an icebox in January. The most reliable cooling method relies on passive thermodynamics rather than costly electricity. Cold air entering low side openings forces rising hot air out through high ridge vents. "Natural ventilation is essential," explains Shane Pliska. "Roof vents and side vents work together: hot air escapes through the roof and draws fresh air in through the sides. This is the stack effect, a principle used to ventilate buildings for centuries."

To make the most of this, structure your vent placements based on the length of your building frame. "As a rule, use one roof and side ventilator per every 6.5 feet (2m) of greenhouse length," advises Bethany Lakatos. "Louver windows can also be used for extra ventilation and are a good option for the South, as they can let in drafts in colder climates." To prevent heat spikes when you aren't home, pair roof panels with a heat-activated arm, such as the Bibistore Temperature Sensitive Automatic Greenhouse Vent Opener, from Amazon. This uses heat-expanding cylinders to lift windows as interior air warms above 60°F without needing electricity.

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At the other extreme, controlling cold snaps requires understanding how fast closed glass structures radiate warmth once the sun goes down. "I think people can underestimate how quickly a greenhouse can overheat, or drop in temperature at night," warns Anna Ohler. "For really cold weather, I like to create another layer of protection directly over the plants. Frost cloth or row cover over low hoops essentially creates a little greenhouse inside the greenhouse." Three good heat-retention strategies for winter include:

• Thermal Water Mass (Passive Heat Retention): Position dark 55-gallon (208 L) water drums along your north wall to absorb ambient daytime solar heat and radiate it slowly back into the structure overnight.
• Targeted Root-Zone Heating: Place soil-heating cable mats directly under propagation trays to maintain a cozy 70°F (21°C) root temperature without needing to heat the entire air volume of the building.
• Insulating Bubble Wrap & Secondary Frames: Line internal twin-wall panels with heavy UV-stabilized bubble wrap to trap dead air and reduce nighttime heating bills by up to 30%.

For growers in severe northern zones needing heavy freeze protection, pairing internal row covers with a portable forced-air electric heater, such as the Airchoice 1500W Electric Greenhouse Heater, available from Walmart, provides thermostat-controlled circulation that keeps air moving and prevents frost pockets from damaging tender foliage.

4. Interior Setup, Power & Water

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Transforming an empty greenhouse frame into an efficient growing space requires thoughtful zoning for staging benches, seed-starting stations, and utility access. Setting up slatted aluminum shelving makes the most of vertical space, while allowing soil spills and water to drain freely. To build a durable workspace that maximizes growing area while keeping walkways clear, go for modular steel shelving, such as the CuisinSmart 4-Tier Greenhouse Shelving Staging from Walmart, which can support heavy potted plants as well as propagation flats.

Before running permanent plumbing lines or installing misting bars, focus on flooring drainage and electrical safety to prevent standing water hazards. "The biggest thing with electricity is remembering that a greenhouse is basically a giant wet environment," says Anna’s husband and business partner, Nick Ohler. "Anything electrical needs to be designed for that environment, including GFCI protection, outdoor/wet-location rated outlets and covers, and properly protected wiring. For water, think about drainage before you think about irrigation." Factor in these interior setup and care rules:

• Automated Drip Irrigation: Running flexible drip lines directly to potted crops ensures consistent root-zone moisture, while keeping foliage dry to prevent fungal pathogens like powdery mildew.
• Annual Glazing Maintenance: Scrubbing internal and external twin-wall panels once a year with warm water and mild dish soap removes accumulated algae and restores maximum light transmission.
• Autumn Pipe Winterization: Disconnecting garden hoses, draining exterior supply lines, and insulating exposed taps before the first autumn freeze can all help you to avoid catastrophic pipe bursts.

Automating daily watering ensures that crops receive steady hydration even during busy workdays or weekend trips. To easily manage drip irrigation cycles without manual effort, pair an exterior hose bib with an automated water controller, like the Rain Bird Digital Hose End Timer, available from Walmart. This has programmable watering intervals and an automatic rain-delay button to prevent water waste.

(Image credit: Dmitrii Marchenko / Getty Images)

Monitoring internal temperature swings and managing supplemental heat sources also encourage a stress-free growing environment. "We like to use portable electric radiator-style space heaters plugged into a cheap thermostat for heating," say Staci and Jeremy Hill. "Coupled with inexpensive Bluetooth and Wi-Fi wireless thermometers and high/low alarms to keep an eye on temperatures, this saves us lots of extra trips."

Best Kits & Brands

Choosing the right greenhouse comes down to balancing your growing ambition against local weather realities. While budget pop-ups offer an accessible entry point, permanent structures require engineered wind ratings, heavy-gauge frames, and long-term foundation planning. "Budget greenhouse kits are budget for a reason. The lower cost definitely comes with caveats," explains Trisha Nieder. "That said, if you’re on a budget and want a greenhouse, you can absolutely make these work. They are an affordable way to see how often you’ll use it and what kind of features you'd like to have." The following highlights some key suitable brands based on goals and budget:

Which Brands are Best for Your Needs?

If You Want...

Price Range

Recommended Brands & Distributors

Budget DIY Starter and Fast Delivery

Under $350

Ohuhu, Outsunny, Sanerto, Quictent, Eagle Peak, ShelterLogic

Mid-Range Year-Round Growing

$350-$1,200

Palram Canopia, Veikous, Outsunny Cedar, Eartheasy, Vegepod

Heavy Snow and Extreme Wind Defense

$1,200–$3,000

Planta Greenhouses, Climapod, Yoderbilt, Riga, Hobby Gardener

Lifetime Custom Luxury and Glass

$3,000–$10,000+

Backyard Discovery, HOWE, Palram Oasis, Hartley Botanic, BC Greenhouses, Janssens

Entry-Level Greenhouses (Under $350)

Ideal for temporary spring propagation, balcony growers, and testing your green thumb without a major financial investment.

Best Compact Starter

Ohuhu Ohuhu Small Greenhouse 4 Tiers 6 Shelves Walk-In

The undisputed king of urban and small-space starters, boasting over 7,000 verified positive reviews on Amazon. Its powder-coated steel frame and heavy-duty, grid-reinforced PE cover trap warmth while shielding delicate fall seedlings from light frosts. It features heavy-duty metal shelf clips that prevent seedling tray slippage and a zippered roll-up door for quick morning ventilation. A major favorite for beginner growers and space-conscious gardeners. 58"L x 30"W x 77"H | Reinforced PE Cover | 1 Person, 20-min tool-free assembly.

Best Rigid Value Starter

Sanerto Sanerto 6x4ft Walk-In Aluminum Frame, Built-In Thermometer & Hygrometer

An incredible bridge model for gardeners stepping up from flexible plastic tarps to a rigid frame. Built with UV-resistant twin-wall polycarbonate and a rust-proof aluminum frame, it scatters harsh mid-day sunlight to prevent leaf scorch. Includes built-in rain gutters for rainwater harvesting and an adjustable roof vent to regulate humidity. Holds up far better to light snowfall than PVC pop-ups. Praised for great insulation at an approachable price. 6' x 4' x 6.5' | 4mm Polycarbonate | 2 People, 3–5 hours assembly.

Best Walk-In Tunnel

Outsunny Outsunny 13' X 10' Walk-In Heavy Duty Tunnel

A massive favorite across online homesteading forums for providing huge square footage on a modest budget. The galvanized steel arch frame supports a tear-resistant green PE mesh cover with roll-up side windows for cross-ventilation. When anchored down with spiral earth stakes or perimeter sandbags, it easily protects large vegetable beds against seasonal winds. A favorite for winter crop protection and high capacity, and a monster for square footage. 13' x 10' x 6.5' | Reinforced PE Mesh | 1–2 People, 2 hours assembly.

Mid-Range Kits ($350–$1,400)

Rigid aluminum frames and insulating twin-wall polycarbonate designed for year-round growing, severe weather, and frost protection.

Best Compact Kit

Palram Palram Canopia Mythos 6' X 8' Polycarbonate Hang Plants Greenhouse Silver

Excellent for backyard kits. Some online reviews caution that assembly requires patience, but many owners praise its long-term durability once locked together. It combines 100% UV-protected twin-wall roof panels with crystal-clear side walls, withstands 56 mph winds and holds up well against storms. Includes plant hangers and a magnetic door catch, plus a roof vent. 6' x 8' x 7' | 4mm Twin-Wall Polycarbonate | 2 People, 5-6 hours assembly.

Best High Value Walk-In

Wayfair Veikous 6 Ft. X 8 Ft. Aluminum Polycarbonate Walk-In Greenhouse

A top-seller for growers who need ample interior clearance without breaking $500. Its thick twin-wall panels provide excellent heat retention during cold fall nights, while the spacious 8x10 floor plan comfortably accommodates 2 parallel tiers of potting benches alongside overwintering citrus trees. Features smooth-sliding doors and integrated rain gutters. Reviewers love its roomy interior. 8' x 10' x 7.3' | 4mm Twin-Wall & Aluminum | 2 People, 6-8 hours assembly.

Best Rustic Value

Wayfair Outsunny 6.6 X 8 Ft Wooden Polycarbonate Greenhouse With Thickened Panels, Walk-In Greenhouse Kit

Crafted from 100% solid fir wood, this model trades cold industrial aluminum for a traditional aesthetic that blends beautifully into borders. Solid wood offers superior thermal insulation over metal frames, and the 6mm thick polycarbonate panels lock in heat better than thinner starter kits in cold snaps. Reviewers love the frame and the aesthetics. 6.6' x 8' x 6.5' | 6mm Polycarbonate & Fir Wood | 2 People, 5-7 hours assembly.

Premium Greenhouses ($1,500–$3,500)

Engineered lifetime structures featuring architectural timber, heavy-gauge aluminum, and smart utility integrations, treasured by serious growers.

Best Smart Timber Kit

Backyard Discovery Backyard Discovery Willow Cedar Wood Walk-In

For growers seeking timber warmth paired with modern utility, this is a standout premium kit crafted from 100% rot-resistant FSC cedar. What truly sets it apart is its PowerPort electrical pass-through and exterior hose hookups, allowing you to run interior grow lights, heating pads, and automated misting systems without trailing extension cords across your lawn. Includes temperature-activated automatic roof vent openers. Praised for an authentic look with features that serious hobby gardeners love. 6' x 9' x 7.8' | 6mm Twin-Wall & 100% Cedar | 2 People, 8-10 hours assembly.

Best Architectural Feature Kit

Palram Palram Canopia Oasis Hexagon Greenhouse

Designed as a hybrid growing sanctuary and elegant garden sunroom, the hexagonal Oasis features heavy-gauge aluminum framing and high-impact clear side panels offering a 360-degree panoramic view. Overhead twin-wall roof panels diffuse harsh sunlight, while side louver vents and wide double doors maintain optimal airflow on warm afternoons. A major star on Amazon and Home Depot for combining structural elegance with functional growing space. 8' x 8' x 8.7' | Clear Side + Twin-Wall Roof | 2 People, 8-10 hours assembly.

Best Luxury Estate Glasshouse

HOWE Howe 16x12x9.5 Ft Pavilion Styled Greenhouse With Clear Panels And 4 Vents

Delivering the classic English Country Estate aesthetic beloved of the Beckhams, this massive pavilion creates an architectural centerpiece. Its towering 9.5-foot apex peak provides massive head clearance for tall potted fruit trees. Constructed with heavy-duty graphite aluminum truss bracing, multiple roof vents, and swing double doors, it easily divides into dedicated propagation zones and an outdoor seating lounge. Highly rated by Amazon buyers for its breathtaking visual impact and massive interior clearance. 16' x 12' x 9.5' | High-Impact Polycarbonate | 2-3 People, 12-14 hours assembly.

Reality Checks, Rules & Permits

(Image credit: Rory McDonald / Getty Images)

Remember, buying your greenhouse kit is only the first step in creating a long-lasting backyard growing space that will justify your investment. To that end, it’s vital to prevent post-purchase headaches by addressing some real-world logistical “gotchas” before you spend any cash. To avoid costly surprises during assembly, you can calculate the true total cost upfront using this simple budget formula:

True Total Cost = Kit Price + Freight Shipping + Foundation Site Prep + Climate Accessories + Local Permit Fees

Beyond the sticker price, improper ground anchoring is a massive hidden gotcha for new owners because, as Staci and Jeremy Hill caution, an unanchored greenhouse frame acts like a giant kite in severe winds. While lightweight DIY kits promise fast weekend setups, navigating hundreds of structural fasteners and frame alignments can quickly get overwhelming. Be honest about your DIY confidence early and budget for a local landscape contractor if site grading or heavy foundation work is needed.

Also, before you commit to your greenhouse, make sure you have ticked off the following key logistical and structural considerations:

1. Property Line Setbacks & HOA Rules: Before placing an order, consult your local Municipal Zoning Board or County Building Department portal to verify required property line setbacks (typically 5-10 feet/1.5-3 m), as well as maximum height allowances, and local Homeowners Association (HOA) architectural covenants.
2. Utility Permits & Permanent Footings: Be aware that adding hardwired electricity, gas heating, or permanent plumbing lines automatically triggers local building code inspections regardless of the greenhouse size, and plan accordingly.
3. Regional Frost-Line Guidelines: Check your regional State University Cooperative Extension Service (such as USDA Extension) to look up your county’s exact frost-line depth before pouring concrete or setting timber posts.

"Restrictions on building a greenhouse will boggle the mind of the average home gardener," cautions Gardening Know How’s gardening expert and legal authority Teo Spengler. "Generally, if you are putting in a concrete slab foundation for your greenhouse, or even permanent footers, you may need to go through the building permit process. This is also the case if you attach your plumbing or electrical system."

(Image credit: oliakolvitz / Getty Images)

Once those legal permits and site preparations are secured, make sure you do anchor your structure against high winds. Gravity alone will not protect lightweight aluminum frames or polycarbonate panels from severe spring shear winds. "Secure it with some kind of inground framing," recommends Trisha Nieder. "Four 2x2x6 cedar posts placed on each of the four corners, set 2 feet (60 cm) into the ground with 2x4s screwed into the bottom, will keep the greenhouse level and secure against winds."

For larger glass or heavy-duty aluminum builds, deeper footings are essential to prevent structural shifting during seasonal freeze-thaw cycles. "Our latest greenhouses are anchored on 4x4s buried in the ground below the frost line and set in concrete," says Staci Hill. "We attach wall materials directly to those corner posts, alleviating the wind issue entirely."

It’s a lot, absolutely. But it’s good to know this stuff before you buy. While municipal codes and storm anchoring might feel intimidating, there are services out there to help you. And taking time to secure your greenhouse foundations ensures decades of stress-free growing. Once your permits and base frame are locked in place, you are ready for the most exciting step: selecting what to grow! Happy greenhouse shopping…

Frequently Asked QuestionsDo I need a permit to build a backyard greenhouse?

For most residential properties, small unheated modular kits under 100-120 square feet (9.3 to 11.1 m²) are classified as temporary accessory structures and do not require formal building permits. However, tying into municipal water lines or hardwiring electrical sub-panels usually triggers local zoning reviews. "Building permits for residential greenhouses depend on structure size, permanent footings, and utility hookups," says Teo Spengler. "Unattached, temporary kits rarely require permits, but pouring a concrete slab or running electrical conduit typically requires local approval."

What is the best direction to face a greenhouse?

In the northern hemisphere, orienting your greenhouse long side facing south (an east-west axis) maximizes low-angled winter sunlight for year-round growing. If nearby mature trees, garages, or house walls block southern exposure, a north-south orientation provides uniform light distribution in peak summer months. "Positioning the long side toward the south maximizes low-angled winter sunlight," explains Shane Pliska. "This keeps internal temperatures higher during the coldest months of the year without extra heating costs."

Can you grow vegetables in an unheated greenhouse all winter?

You can, provided you cultivate frost-tolerant cold-hardy crops like spinach, kale, winter lettuce, and radishes rather than warm-season crops. Unheated glazing acts as a windbreaker and provides a passive thermal buffer, raising internal temperatures by 5-10°F (3-6°C warmer than outside), protecting crops against killing frosts. "An unheated greenhouse won't keep tomatoes alive in January, but pairing your structure with internal frost cloth over low hoops lets you harvest hardy greens all winter long," says Anna Ohler.

How do I anchor a greenhouse against strong wind gusts?

Lightweight aluminum frames can easily catch wind like a kite during 40+ mph spring storms if merely rested on topsoil. Base frames must be bolted down to concrete slabs, secured to heavy 4x4 pressure-treated timber sleepers, or pinned into deep earth auger anchors. "Never rely on gravity alone," warn Staci and Jeremy Hill. "Securing your base frame to pressure-treated wooden posts buried below the frost line or using heavy auger earth anchors is essential for surviving spring storms."

How do I control humidity and prevent mold or mildew?

Excess internal moisture breeds devastating fungal pathogens. "Powder-coated frames and twin-wall panels keep heat in, but stagnant air breeds botrytis and powdery mildew," explains Bethany Lakatos. Combat high humidity by running lower wall louvers alongside automatic roof vents, and applying drip irrigation to root zones rather than spraying foliage. "Watering early in the morning also keeps canopy humidity balanced," says Bethany.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Fill a feeder in the morning, and by afternoon a squirrel may be hanging upside down from it, cheeks stuffed. Here's the good news, though. There are some types of bird seed that squirrels don't enjoy – but they still bring in plenty of songbirds.

Good bird feeding isn't only about what goes in the feeder, though. Pair the right seed with smart bird feeder ideas, and you'll make life much harder for determined squirrels. Where the feeder hangs, how it's built, and what spills beneath it all affect how often squirrels show up. Fall makes this especially timely, as squirrels spend the season gathering and stashing food, and a full feeder is an easy stop on their rounds.

The three seeds I've covered here all get left alone more often than sunflower does, but that's no promise – a hungry enough squirrel will taste just about anything once. Pair the new seed with a better spot for the feeder, and the birds get more of each fill.

Why Squirrels Keep Raiding Bird Feeders

So why do squirrels keep coming back? Eastern gray squirrels (Sciurus carolinensis) like a lot of what birds like. Sunflower seeds are a favorite, and corn and peanuts may tempt them even more. That's bad news for anyone buying bargain bags, since cheap mixes often lean on sunflower and corn.

Squirrels are also gifted athletes. From a roof, branch, or fence, a squirrel can cover about 10 feet (3 m) in one leap, and from the ground it can spring roughly 5 feet (1.5 m) straight up. That's why squirrel-proof feeders and baffles can make such a difference. Any feeder within reach of those launch points is fair game, no matter what seed it holds.

Shop Squirrel-Proof Feeders

Niser Squirrel-Proof Bird Mesh Bird Feeder

Kingsyard Squirrel-Proof Double Suet Feeder

Wildpark Squirrel-Proof Metal Hanging Bird Feeder

The 3 Seeds Squirrels Are Less Likely to Steal

1. Safflower

Safflower looks like a small white sunflower seed with a thick shell. Squirrels usually pass it by, and so do house sparrows and starlings, for the most part. In some areas, squirrels have picked up a taste for it anyway. Pick up a bag of Wagner's Safflower Seed Wild Bird Food on Amazon.

2. Nyjer

Despite the old “thistle” label, nyjer has nothing to do with North American thistles. It comes from an African plant. Those tiny black seeds rank among the seeds squirrels don’t like much. Use a feeder with very small ports and serve it by itself, not in a mix, or a lot of it ends up wasted. Kaytee sells quality nyjer seed at a reasonable price.

3. White Proso Millet

White proso millet is the pale little seed that fills out most budget blends. Squirrels will eat it, but with corn or peanuts on offer, they usually go for those first. That's why a mix that leans hard on millet tends to lose their attention sooner. If you buy it on its own, pick white, like this Morning Bird White Proso Millet. Birds will choose it over red.

(Image credit: Algirdas Gelazius / Shutterstock)Which Birds Each Seed Attracts

Cardinals go for safflower more than most. Grosbeaks, chickadees, titmice, nuthatches, and mourning doves eat it, too. There is a catch, though: plenty of birds still prefer sunflower, and a feeder switched straight to safflower may get quieter. Mix a little safflower into the current seed and raise the share over time for an easier switch.

Nyjer is finch food. Goldfinches crowd it, both American and lesser, and house finches, pine siskins, and redpolls show up as well.

Millet works from the ground up. Juncos and native sparrows are the regulars, with towhees and mourning doves close behind, and cardinals will pick at it, too.

How to Offer These Seeds

Each seed does best in its own feeder. Safflower goes in a hopper, tube, or platform feeder without any trouble. For nyjer, you’ll want tiny ports or fine mesh, like this Kingsyard feeder from Amazon.

Millet belongs low, on the ground or a low tray that drains well, where juncos and native sparrows forage. A 10-pound (4.5 kg) bag of plain white millet makes a fine start. Go easy on the amount. Seed still lying around at dusk means you overdid it, and squirrels will happily clean it up.

(Image credit: Carla Elaine Mason / Shutterstock)Where to Place a Bird Feeder to Discourage Squirrels

Distance comes first. Give a pole-mounted feeder at least 10 feet (3 m) of open air between it and the nearest tree, fence, roof, or deck. Height matters as well – about 5 feet (1.5m) up keeps it out of a ground jump. If you’re buying a pole, a heavy-duty 76-inch adjustable shepherd’s hook from Home Depot sits on a seven-prong base that stays put in soft soil.

Then add a baffle. On a pole, it goes below the feeder so squirrels can’t climb past it – for a feeder hanging near trees, a dome-style baffle goes above instead. This Koralakiri 19-Inch Squirrel Baffle from Walmart will do the job nicely.

(Image credit: Philippe Gerber / Getty Images)Other Ways to Make a Bird Feeder Less Appealing to Squirrels

The feeder itself can do some of the work. Weight-activated models close their seed ports when anything heavier than a songbird climbs on. With the Brome Squirrel Buster Classic from Amazon, a squirrel’s own weight pulls the shroud down. Hang it with roughly 18 inches (46 cm) of open space all around.

Caged designs take a different approach. The iron cage around this Veehoo caged tube feeder keeps squirrels at arm’s length from its four feeding ports. A seed tray under a tube feeder catches spills before they reach the ground. Keep spare seed sealed, too – a lidded metal or plastic container works well to keep pests out.

(Image credit: Giedriius / Shutterstock)What Not to Add to Bird Seed

Leave sticky and greasy tricks alone. Sticky coatings meant for squirrels can just as easily trap a chickadee. Grease is no better. Smear petroleum jelly or cooking oil on a pole, and it mats fur and feathers alike – a bird with matted feathers loses the insulation it needs on cold nights.

Hot-pepper seed is the other common shortcut. Birds don’t feel the heat of capsaicin, but squirrels do. It burns their mouths and causes real discomfort, which is a fair reason to leave it on the shelf. Skip salty or sugary kitchen scraps, too. Both can hurt small birds.

Squirrels won’t vanish from the yard, and that’s fine – they’re fun to watch when they aren’t eating the cardinals’ dinner. Give them a seed they don’t love and a feeder they can’t reach, and more of each bag ends up where it belongs.

The Christmas cactus is an extremely popular holiday plant that seems to bloom forever, offering some of the most exotic-looking flowers in the plant kingdom. It takes second place only to the Christmas tree in terms of plants associated with the holidays. And it’s a tropical cactus that doesn’t have needles that get all over the carpet!

When it’s not playing a starring role in Santa season, this beautiful plant can keep on looking lush and lovely in spring, summer, and fall with proper Christmas cactus care. However, while it's an easy houseplant to grow, getting it to produce another spectacular holiday flower display takes a little more planning than simply keeping it alive.

October is when that preparation begins. The shorter days and cooler nights help trigger bud formation, but a few simple care tasks can make all the difference to the quality of this year's display. Here are five essential autumn care steps for Schlumbergera × buckleyi (also sold as Schlumbergera bridgesii) to encourage healthy growth and plenty of buds for December. You can also use this advice on the other main type of holiday cactus, the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata).

1. Bring on the Dark

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Holiday prep for your Christmas cactus starts in October. This is the single most important step if you want to enjoy the same fabulous display of blooms you had the previous year. The key is striking the right balance between daylight and complete darkness.

Starting in October, control the amount of daylight your plant receives. To trigger bud formation, a Christmas cactus needs around 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness every night. It won't mind whether that darkness comes from being placed in a spare room or closet, as long as no light reaches it.

You can also simply cover it with an opaque box or a black fabric grow bag, such as these 5-gallon black grow bags from Amazon, which are large enough to fit over most mature Christmas cacti while still allowing plenty of airflow.

After its nightly blackout, return the plant to a spot with bright, indirect light for the remaining 12 hours of the day.

2. Keep Things Cool

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This cactus may look like a beautiful holiday decoration, but don't forget – it's a real plant. If you only want to enjoy it for one season, that's your choice. But if you want your Christmas cactus to bloom year after year, you need to provide the right conditions before it flowers.

In the wild, Christmas cacti spend the early months of winter in cooler conditions, and this drop in temperature helps stimulate bud formation. That means now isn't the time to display your plant in front of a crackling fire. Instead, keep it in a room where temperatures stay between 50–55°F (10–13°C). Don't let it get too warm, but don't let it get too cold either.

3. Water Can Wait

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Do you hear the term "cactus" and think of the Sonoran Desert? Yes, some cacti are native to arid climates and require infrequent watering, but others, like the Christmas cactus, call the tropical rainforest home.

Even so, autumn should be a relatively dry period in the life of a Christmas cactus. In the wild, this is a season with little rainfall, so don't flood the plant now. Stop the weekly watering routine and make sure the pot isn't sitting in a saucer of water.

Instead, check the soil every week to see if it has dried out. Push your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle, and only water if it feels dry at that depth. If you'd rather take the guesswork out of watering, an inexpensive XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is a worthwhile investment. It gives an instant reading of moisture levels below the surface, helping you avoid the overwatering that can prevent Christmas cacti from setting buds.

4. Hold the Fertilizer

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Okay, we get it. There are a lot of directions to follow if you want your Christmas cactus to burst into bloom for the holidays. But many of them involve not doing things: no lights at night, no warm room, less water, and... no fertilizer.

Stop fertilizing your Christmas cactus completely in October and November. Fertilizer encourages leafy growth, and that's not what you want at this stage. Instead, the plant needs to direct its energy into setting flower buds for the holiday season.

Once flowering has finished and your plant resumes active growth in spring, you can start feeding again with a balanced houseplant fertilizer, such as this TPS Nutrients Christmas Cactus Fertilizer. Regular feeding through spring and summer will help support healthy stems and set your Christmas cactus up for another spectacular display next winter.

5. Watch for Flower Buds

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

After a few weeks, start checking your Christmas cactus every day for developing buds. A good time to do this is each morning when you move it from its dark location back into bright, indirect light. The buds will first appear as tiny, brightly colored points at the tips of the flattened stems.

As soon as you spot the first buds, your care routine changes. The nightly 12-hour blackout has done its job and is no longer needed. Move the plant to a bright, warm spot, where the buds can continue to develop into the spectacular flowers that make Christmas cacti such a holiday favorite.

Christmas Cactus Care Essentials

Vivosun 5-Pack 5 Gallon Plant Grow Bags Fabric Pots With Handles

Xlux Plant Soil Moisture Meter

TPS Plant Foods Christmas Cactus Fertilizer

Furniture that doesn’t try too hard does feel particularly West Coast.

Warm wood, natural stone, useful storage and simple forms tend to feel more at home here than anything overly polished or precious. It’s a sensibility that Vancouver company Sundays and Sophie Burke Design have put forward in Harbour, Sundays’ first full collection collaboration.

Including pieces for the bedroom, living room, dining room and home office, Harbour was conceived as a collection for the whole home rather than a single statement piece.

For Sophie Burke, principal of Vancouver-based Sophie Burke Design, the appeal of working with Sundays was partly that shared emphasis on livability.

“I love how approachable Sundays furniture is. It’s beautiful and carefully considered, but also warm and relaxed. It’s designed for real life, which appeals to me,” she says.

A West Coast point of view

The collection draws on familiar materials — walnut, pale oak, Carrara marble and teak — but its West Coast character is less literal than simply placing nature-inspired motifs on furniture.

Burke says living and working in Vancouver has inevitably influenced how she thinks about interiors.

“We’re surrounded by ocean, mountains and forest, and I think that naturally draws us towards materials that feel tactile and authentic, and colours and forms that are quieter and more restrained,” says Burke.

That influence also extends to how people actually use their homes.

“There’s an informality to the way people live here that was important to me — I wanted the furniture to feel beautiful and considered, but also relaxed, comfortable and easy to live with,” she says.

For Harbour, that translated into straightforward forms, natural materials and furniture intended to last beyond a decorating cycle.

Noah Morse, co-founder and head of product at Sundays, sees the same quality in contemporary Canadian design.

“I think there’s a confidence in West Coast design right now that doesn’t need to be loud. Harbour is warm and understated, with natural materials and really considered proportions,” he says.

Morse and Burke’s connection goes back years in Vancouver.

In his twenties, Morse worked at Inform Interiors, where Burke was a client. Years later, after Sundays launched, he discovered she had begun specifying some of the company’s furniture in her own projects.

“When I heard she was interested in expanding into furniture design, I jumped at the opportunity,” Morse says.

Rather than attach a designer’s name to one or two products, Sundays wanted the collaboration to extend across an entire collection.

“With Sophie, there was such a natural alignment in how we think about home, materials and longevity that the opportunity was there to build an entire collection together, rather than just one or two pieces,” he says.

Burke says clients increasingly want spaces that are functional, personal and comfortable.

“I think fall and winter are times when people begin spending more time in their homes again. They are looking for their homes to be functional with spaces that really work for their needs.”

Morse sees a similar shift away from rapid decorating cycles.

“There’s so much available to us now, and trends move incredibly quickly, but I think the response to that is a desire for ‘fewer, better things,’ meaning pieces with real materials, warmth and longevity that can become part of your life rather than being replaced when the next trend arrives.”

The most important thing is to choose pieces you really love rather than what feels current, says Burke.

Good proportions, robust materials and classic lines matter too, particularly when furniture needs to work with different rooms, art and objects collected over time.

“I’m a big believer that everything in your home should have a reason for being there. I feel that way about my own home, right down to the cutlery,” says Morse.

Favourite pieces from this collection

For Burke, it is the Harbour Bookshelf, which combines open shelving with closed storage.

The appeal lies partly in its ability to accommodate the realities of everyday life: cupboards conceal what doesn’t need displaying, while open sections create what Burke describes as “‘frames’ for books, art, and the objects you collect over time,” she says.

Morse chooses the Harbour Desk.

“It feels very distinctly Sophie — understated and refined with just enough detail to give it character without feeling over-designed,” he says.

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Kristin Davis has long been beloved (how many of us have referred to ourselves, unironically, as 'a Charlotte' based on her performance in Sex And The City? Thought so!), but her latest plant update has cemented her place in our hearts forever.

Now, celebrity homes usually have a funny way of making gardening look effortless. The gardens are immaculate, the houseplants are enormous, glossy and seemingly incapable of dropping a single leaf, and somehow every corner looks like it belongs in a magazine.

It can all feel a little unattainable if you (like so many people, whether they care to admit it or not) spend your life googling the easiest and hardest-to-kill houseplants, which is why Kristin's latest plant update is so strangely reassuring.

Meet Theo, Kristin Davis's Fiddle Leaf Fig

Kristin Davis recently posted an Instagram video – not the actor, but her fiddle-leaf fig, which she named after him. Objectively, it's an excellent name for a plant this dramatic, and Kristin clearly has a soft spot for her leafy namesake.

Unfortunately, Theo isn't doing so well. Indeed, in the video, Kristin asks her followers for advice after noticing that the ends of his leaves have started to turn yellow and brown. She has a couple of theories of her own, wondering whether he might have overheated during the summer or whether it's time to move him into a bigger pot, but (as so many people have rushed to reassure her in the comments) the good news is that Theo is almost certainly not dying.

The less good news? Those yellowing leaves and brown tips could be signs of more than one problem, and with fiddle-leaf figs – a plant famous for being a little dramatic – that's perhaps not entirely surprising. So, if your own fiddle-leaf fig is looking less than fabulous, don't panic. Here's how to work out what's causing yellowing leaves and brown tips, and what you can do to get your plant looking healthy again.

What the Brown and Yellow Leaf Tips Are Telling You

(Image credit: Katherin Stanley / Getty Images)

One of the most common complaints about fiddle leaf figs is brown and yellow leaf edges. Unfortunately, this can mean several things have gone wrong all at the same time, and that’s just one part of what can make this plant as difficult as a two-year-old. In Theo’s case (the plant, not the actor), based on Kristin’s own diagnosis, the most likely culprit is a combination of underwatering, heat stress, and possibly being root-bound in a pot that’s too small.

That’s a lot of issues, but here’s how to tell them apart. Yellowing that spreads from the edges toward the center, combined with browning tips, usually points to inconsistent watering. Either the fiddle leaf fig has dried out too much between waterings or got way too much water after not getting enough for a while.

Heat stress can cause similar symptoms: If the plant sat in a hot spot all summer, especially near a south-facing window or close to a heat source, the leaf margins are often the first thing to show it. A root-bound plant (one where the roots have filled the whole pot with nowhere to go) will show this stress across the whole plant.

Shop Fiddle Leaf Fig Essentials:

Improves aeration

Westland Gro-Sure Perlite 10L

Perlite is a great addition that will encourage healthy root growth and improve aeration and drainage, key elements for your fiddle leaf fig this month.

No batteries required

Verve Multi-tester

This soil multi-meter is the perfect tool for checking whether you've over or under watered. All you need to do is pop it in and see what the display says.

White washed

Verve Mali Matt White Washed Terracotta Plant Pot, 53cm dia, 60cm in height, 68L

Terracotta pots are the better option as they allow roots to breathe better than plastic options – and we think they look much nicer too! Pop a plate or terracotta saucer underneath for inside use.

This can include yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and soil that dries out unusually fast, and all three of these things can be happening at the same time.

We guess Theo leans toward being slightly dramatic and complicated, like most actors.

So, Should Kristin Repot?

(Image credit: Bogdan Kurylo / Getty Images)

So, should Kristin repot that fiddle-leaf fig? Probably yes, but very carefully. It’s one of those plants that does better slightly root-bound rather than freshly repotted in a pot that’s too large. Too much soil can mean too much moisture retention, which in turn increases the risk of roots rotting. The best thing to do would be to go up in pot size, but just by one. For example, if Theo is currently in a 10-inch pot, a 12-inch pot would be your target, not 14.

Use a well-draining potting mix, and do it when the plant is in an active growth phase rather than when it’s already in distress. Leave it completely alone for at least 4 weeks while it gets adjusted.

If repotting isn’t an option at the moment, lift the plant out of its pot gently and check the roots. If they’re circling around the bottom too tightly, or poking out of the drainage holes, that’s your confirmation that the pot is too small, and it’s worth repotting sooner rather than later.

Fixing the Watering

(Image credit: Viktoriya Skorikova / Getty Images)

When it comes to a fiddle leaf fig, the golden rule is consistency. Stick your finger 2 inches into the soil, and if it still feels damp, leave it. Water it well when it’s dry, and let the excess drain out completely without letting the pot sit in standing water.

The plant’s water needs drop significantly in fall and winter as the growing phase becomes slower, so adjust your schedule accordingly.

Dealing With the Heat Damage

(Image credit: Rawpixel / Getty Images)

Once the leaves become brown and yellow on the edges, they won’t recover, and the damage has been done. But once you fix the underlying cause and the plant is otherwise healthy, new growth should come in nice and clean. Kristin should move Theo away from any direct sun or heat source and consider how dry the indoor air is in fall and winter: central heating can lower humidity, and it’s one of the fastest ways to get crispy leaf edges on a fiddle leaf fig. A low-maintenance fix for this is a pebble tray filled with water underneath the pot.

The brown and yellow tips won’t disappear, but Kristin’s fiddle leaf fig will certainly recover. With a slightly bigger pot, consistent watering, and being kept away from the radiator, he should be in good shape... a general rule of thumb which kind of applies to a lot of things, actually.

Hydroponic gardening is having a moment. The clever growing method is popping up in homes as people look for new ways to grow fresh produce in small spaces, and Zooey Deschanel is firmly on board.

The New Girl actor recently shared a glimpse of her own hydroponic setup on on Instagram, and honestly? It's a pretty compelling demonstration of why hydroponics has captured the attention of so many home growers.

The idea is simple: just like Zooey, you can grow plants (including vegetables!) without soil, using nutrient-rich water instead. Better still, many systems are compact enough to sit inside your home, which means you don't necessarily need a garden, a huge amount of outdoor space or even particularly green fingers to give it a go.

Let's Talk Hydroponics

The world of hydroponics is packed full of benefits, although there's no getting away from the fact that some of the sleekest hydroponic systems can come with a decidedly un-sleek price tag.

The good news? You don't need a celebrity budget like Zooey Deschanel to try the trend for yourself. In fact, there are now plenty of smaller and more affordable hydroponic kits like this one available on Amazon, making it possible to experiment with growing your own herbs and vegetables without immediately spending hundreds.

Keen to learn more about them and why they're a great choice for hands-off gardening? I spoke to a plant pro all about them to expand on why they are a great choice, as well as to learn about some of their potential drawbacks. Here's what they had to say.

A post shared by Zooey Deschanel (@zooeydeschanel)

A photo posted by

What Are Hydropnic Systems?

Put simply, hydroponics is a way of growing plants without soil. Instead, plants are grown in a contained system where their roots have access to water infused with the nutrients they need to thrive.

The water is circulated around the system, often with the help of an air pump. This helps ensure the roots receive enough oxygen and prevents the water from becoming stagnant. Many hydroponic systems are also paired with grow lights to ensure any outdoor sunlight that the plants would otherwise be obtaining is supplemented.

It sounds futuristic, but the principle is actually pretty straightforward: rather than relying on soil to deliver nutrients and water to a plant's roots, a hydroponic system delivers them directly (which is incredibly appealing).

What system was Zooey advertising?

The system on Zooey's Instagram page is the Farmstand Nook model, created by the hydroponic company Lettuce Grow which she co-founded.

It's designed to be space-saving, standing vertically to tuck into even the smallest home corner, and it features numerous tiers to care for and display your plants simultaneously.

Zooey sat her hydroponic system in her breakfast nook, which is an ideal place to put one if you're hoping to make the most out of bringing the outdoors indoors. It'll greet you in the morning and you can just sit back and enjoy co-existing with the plants in your space while the hydroponic system does most of the work.

Why Is Everyone Suddenly Talking About Hydroponics?

One of the biggest advantages of hydroponics is how efficiently it can use space and resources. "Hydroponic systems typically use far less water than traditional growing methods because water is recirculated in a contained system rather than lost into the surrounding soil," says Elizabeth Waddington of First Tunnels.

A major pro point Elizabeth shared with me is how well hydroponic systems and their contained nature optimize the impact of what you're giving to your greenery.

That could make hydroponics particularly appealing to anyone who wants to grow their own food but doesn't have a traditional garden. Especially as, per Elizabeth's thoughts, hydroponic systems are a great space-saving choice, with tall-slim models being perfect for even the smallest of apartments. They also serve as an amazing alternative "where access to garden soil is limited or non-existent."

Shop Hydroponic Systems:

Ahopegarden Hydroponics Growing System

LETPOT Max 21-Pod Hydroponic Growing System Kits

Ahopegarden Hydroponics Growing System Kit: 12 Pods With Lcd Control Panel

The Farmstand Nook featured on Zooey Deschanel's Instagram is made by Lettuce Grow, the company she co-founded, and is designed to grow vertically rather than taking up a large footprint horizontally.

Zooey has placed hers in her breakfast nook, making it as much a part of her home as it is a growing system. It's a particularly appealing idea if you're interested in bringing more greenery indoors, because instead of hiding your plants away in a garden, you get to see them every day.

And while the Nook is an impressive example of what hydroponic growing can look like, you certainly don't need to replicate Zooey's setup to join the trend, as the kits above all prove.

What Are The Drawbacks?

As appealing as hydroponics sounds, it isn't completely maintenance-free, and it's worth knowing that before investing. The main issue is that your plants are entirely reliant on the system continuing to work properly.

"Because plants rely entirely on the system, equipment failures can become serious quickly," Elizabeth explains. "A failed pump or prolonged power outage can stress or damage crops in a relatively short time."

That's something you don't necessarily have to worry about when growing a plant in a pot of soil. If you forget about a tomato plant for a while, it's still sitting there in its soil. A hydroponic plant is much more dependent on its growing environment continuing to function as it should.

For that reason, Elizabeth recommends keeping a backup air pump on hand, as well as plenty of nutrient solution so you can top up your system when needed. So, while hydroponics can certainly make growing more efficient, it isn't quite a case of setting up your system and forgetting about it.

What's Best Suited To Growing In A Hydroponic System?

Here's Elizabeth's breakdown of some of the best crops to grow in a hydroponic system. You'll be surprised by how versatile the list is!

• Leafy greens are among the easiest and most productive crops. Lettuce, spinach, kale, rocket, and Asian greens generally thrive in hydroponic systems and can produce abundant harvests throughout the year.
• Herbs are another excellent choice. Basil, parsley, coriander, mint, chives, and dill all perform particularly well, making hydroponics ideal for kitchen gardeners seeking a steady supply of fresh flavour.
• Fruit-bearing crops can also be successful. Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and strawberries are commonly grown hydroponically, especially in greenhouse environments. However, these crops usually require more support, careful nutrient management, and greater attention to pollination.

Ahopegarden Indoor Garden Hydroponics Growing System Kit

LETPOT Hydroponics Growing System Kit

Alto Garden Gx Hydroponic Tower

If Zooey Deschanel's setup has left you wondering whether hydroponics could work in your own home, the answer may be yes... particularly if you don't have much outdoor space. Yes, a large and beautifully designed system might be the celebrity-approved dream, but a small hydroponic kit?

Why, that can give you a chance to see whether you actually enjoy growing this way before making a bigger investment. Maybe dip your toes into the trend for considerably less than the cost of a full-size system, and see how it works for you.

Maintaining a large property with multiple garden beds means spending countless hours tackling seasonal pruning tasks, and having reliable tools makes all the difference. I've also spent years growing and pruning hydrangeas – my favorite plants and the reason my friends and colleagues now call me the "Hydrangea Queen." With shrubs that flower on old wood, clean, precise cuts are essential, so I don't take my choice of pruners lightly.

Fiskars has been making quality cutting tools for as long as I can remember, and its 5/8-inch Cut Capacity Bypass Pruning Shears are exactly what I've come to expect from the brand. They're among the best garden pruners I've used, delivering clean, smooth bypass cuts that help minimize damage to your plants.

As a former garden center manager, I've sold and evaluated just about every type of gardening tool on the market, so I know what separates a good pair of pruners from one that's not worth your money. These affordable Fiskars pruners are available on Amazon, where they've earned more than 42,000 five-star reviews, and they're the real deal.

Product Specifications

Type

Bypass hand pruners

Maximum cut capacity

5/8 inch (16 mm)

Blade material

Precision-ground steel with low-friction coating

Handle

Ergonomic, non-slip grip

Opening mechanism

Spring-loaded

Special features

Self-cleaning sap groove, blade lock for safe storage

Weight

9.4 oz (266 g)

Hand orientation

Left and right

Average price

$13–$18

Warranty

Lifetime

(Image credit: Amy Draiss)How I Tested Them

I reach for these pruners time and time again because they're comfortable, easy to maneuver, and capable of tackling just about any pruning task I throw at them. I've put them to the test on unruly rose branches, thick hydrangea stems, general deadheading, and cleaning up my perennials (I have a few too many to admit) in both spring and fall.

I've also come to appreciate the little details that really matter, especially during those marathon pruning sessions. The spring-loaded opening mechanism comes in handy because the blades automatically reopen after each cut, reducing the amount of work my hand has to do. Any tool with features that can help reduce hand fatigue is a win in my book.

(Image credit: Amy Draiss)Performance

The sharp, precision-ground steel blades are the main draw here. They're strong enough to handle branches up to 5/8 inch in diameter, yet the bypass pruning action is gentle enough for delicate new growth, helping minimize plant damage and promote healthier plants. Clean cuts really do matter, and these consistently deliver them.

One feature I've especially come to appreciate is the self-cleaning sap groove. It helps prevent sticky sap from building up and gumming up the blades, allowing for cleaner cuts and longer-lasting performance without having to stop and wipe the blades nearly as often.

(Image credit: Amy Draiss)Design & Comfort

Comfort is one of the biggest reasons I keep coming back to these pruners. They're lightweight, easy to maneuver, and the ergonomic handles feel comfortable even after extended periods of pruning.

They also lock closed, keeping the blades protected and making the pruners easier to store in a tool bag or drawer. It reduces the chance of accidentally reaching for an open blade – always a welcome feature when you’re working with sharp tools.

Anything I Didn't Like?

These pruners are designed as an everyday garden tool rather than a heavy-duty pair of loppers, so it's important not to ask too much of them. While they'll comfortably cut stems and branches up to 5/8 inch (16 mm) thick, anything larger is better tackled with a different tool.

The lightweight construction is another reason they're so comfortable to use, but gardeners who prefer the heft and longevity of premium forged pruners may find they don't feel quite as substantial. For the price, though, it's a compromise I'm more than happy to make.

(Image credit: Amy Draiss)Should You Buy Them?

I’ve handled a lot of gardening tools over the years, including plenty of pruners that cost considerably more than these. Despite their affordable price, the Fiskars 5/8-inch Cut Capacity Bypass Pruning Shears remain my go-to pruners five years on, simply because they work so well. With proper care, this pair will easily last you for many, many years.

If you need a comfortable, dependable pair of pruning shears for everything from deadheading and perennials to roses and shrubs, I'd happily recommend them. They offer exceptional value for money and are a pair I reach for time and time again.

How Do They Compare?

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Gardeners looking for a premium option should consider the Felco 6, which were rated best pruners in our testing. They deliver a sharper cutting experience and are built to last for many years with proper maintenance, but you'll pay a significant premium compared to the Fiskars.

Gonicc 8" Professional Premium Bypass Titanium Pruning Shears

Offering a slightly larger 3/4-inch cutting capacity than the Fiskars, these titanium-coated bypass pruners are a great value option. The ergonomic handles and anti-stick sap groove make them comfortable to use during longer pruning sessions.

Opinel Pruning Shears

Crafted in France, these pruners offer adjustable cutting widths for added comfort. Their attractive mixed-material construction includes a beechwood handle and is best suited to moderately thick plant stems.

Plenty of homeowners shut off their sprinklers in fall and call it done. That valve keeps new water out, but the water in the pipes, valves, and heads stays put. If you’re wondering how to winterize sprinklers, start by getting that water out.

In-ground lawn irrigation systems hold water in spots a shutoff can’t reach, including the valves, low points in buried pipe, and the backflow preventer. Frozen water expands, and plastic pipe, fittings, and sprinkler cases can crack under that pressure.

A sprinkler blowout isn’t hard, but you shouldn’t rush it. Too much pressure can pop nozzles off and damage pipe, and compressed air is rough on eyes. Lots of homeowners handle it themselves while preparing the garden for winter. Some systems are better off with a pro, though.

Why Turning Off Your Sprinklers Isn’t Enough

So why isn’t the shutoff enough? Water swells by about one-eleventh as it freezes at 32°F (0°C), with enough force to burst pipes and crack valves or sprinkler casings. Electric valves are another problem. They hold water above an internal diaphragm, and only compressed air pushes it out.

Drain valves help, but they don’t catch everything. They count on evenly sloped pipe, and buried lines shift over time and trap water in low spots. Skip the blowout, and you may find split fittings and cracked valves at spring start-up.

When to Winterize Your Sprinkler System

Plan to winterize your sprinkler system before your area's first hard freeze. In colder regions, that often means tackling the job in early to mid-fall. An established lawn won't be harmed if you shut off the irrigation a little early – it will green up again once watering resumes in spring.

Backflow preventers and exposed pipework are the first parts of the system at risk because they're exposed to freezing air, while buried pipes are vulnerable only after prolonged cold drives frost deep into the ground. In some mild-winter regions, irrigation systems aren't designed with a blowout port because draining the above-ground components is usually enough. In these areas, simply shutting off the water supply, turning off the controller, and draining exposed parts may be all that's required.

What You’ll Need

Air Compressor

Craftsman 20-Gallon Vertical Air Compressor (175 PSI)

Adaptor Kit

Hourleey Sprinkler Winterizing Blowout Adapter Kit With Shut Off Valve

Adjustable Wrench

Husky 10-Inch Adjustable Wrench

• Air compressor: You'll need an air compressor with enough airflow (CFM) to push water out of the sprinkler lines. Airflow is more important than maximum PSI, and a larger tank means you won't have to stop as often to let the compressor refill. I recommend the Craftsman 20-Gallon Vertical Air Compressor, available on Amazon, which delivers 5 CFM at 40 PSI – plenty for most residential sprinkler systems when blowing out one zone at a time.
• Sprinkler blowout adapter: You'll need an adapter to connect the compressor hose to your system's blowout port. I like the Hourleey Sprinkler Blowout Adapter Kit, available on Amazon, which includes durable brass fittings and a quick-connect adapter compatible with most home irrigation systems.
• Safety glasses: Always wear eye protection when blowing out sprinkler lines. A pair of NoCry Safety Glasses is a good option.
• Adjustable wrench: Keep a 10-inch wrench handy for loosening caps and fittings. I use this Husky adjustable wrench from Home Depot.

How to Winterize In-Ground Sprinklers

1. Turn Off the Water Supply
   Start by closing the water supply. It's often a stop-and-waste valve in a basement or underground box. Don't force it. If you're unsure how to drain sprinkler lines, look for manual drain valves at the low points or ends of each line and open them. Drain any pump, too, and store it indoors.
2. Connect the Air Compressor
   Attach your sprinkler blowout adapter to the blowout fitting just downstream of the backflow preventer, then connect the air compressor hose. Close the isolation valve downstream of the backflow preventer first, as air should never be forced back through the backflow device.
3. Blow Out Each Zone
   Open one irrigation zone at the controller, then slowly increase the air pressure until only a fine mist and air come out of the sprinkler heads.
4. Repeat and Finish Up
   Turn the compressor off before switching zones, and give each zone two passes. When you're finished, leave the backflow preventer's ball valves and test cocks half-open to prevent trapped water from causing damage over winter.

(Image credit: Getty Images)How Much Air Pressure Should You Use?

Don't focus on pressure alone, though. Airflow (CFM) is just as important, as it determines how much water the compressor can push out of the pipes. A compressor with too little airflow may leave water trapped in low spots, increasing the risk of freeze damage.

For many residential irrigation systems, around 5 CFM is sufficient when blowing out one zone at a time. The Craftsman Vertical Air Compressor I recommended above is rated at 5 CFM (142L per minute) at 40 psi (276kPa).

(Image credit: Getty Images)Why Sprinkler Blowouts Can Be Dangerous

Wear safety glasses throughout the process. Air blasting from an open fitting can send water, grit, and small debris flying fast enough to cause eye injuries. Keep clear of sprinkler heads, valve boxes, and risers while the system is pressurized. If you have pets, it's also a good idea to keep them indoors, as the sudden bursts of air and loud whistling from the sprinkler heads can be startling.

Air should never be forced against a closed valve, so always open one irrigation zone before switching on the compressor. Once a zone is clear, don't keep blowing air through it. Running compressed air through dry pipes for too long can generate heat through friction, potentially damaging sprinkler heads, fittings, and seals. Likewise, never force compressed air through a backflow preventer, as it can damage the internal components.

When to Hire a Professional

If your irrigation system doesn't have a blowout fitting downstream of the backflow preventer, you'll need to install one before you can safely blow out the lines. Some systems also require more specialist knowledge. For example, reduced-pressure (RP) backflow preventers need to be partially disassembled and drained, while large irrigation systems or those with extensive polyethylene pipe can be more difficult to clear with a typical home compressor.

Professionals use high-volume commercial compressors that move far more air than most homeowner models, allowing them to clear larger systems more efficiently. They can also winterize the backflow preventer during the same visit. When hiring a contractor, look for one certified through the Irrigation Association or EPA WaterSense program. If you already use a lawn care or landscaping company, check whether sprinkler winterization is included in your seasonal maintenance package.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What to Do With the System Over Winter

Leave the irrigation controller plugged in and set it to Off or Rain Mode. That may sound counterintuitive, but the transformer's small amount of heat can help reduce moisture buildup and corrosion.

Insulate any exposed pipework and above-ground shutoff valves, but don't block the vents or drain openings on the backflow preventer. For outdoor spigots, Frost King Foam Faucet Covers, available at Walmart, offer an easy way to add extra freeze protection.

If your backflow preventer is installed above ground, consider covering it with an insulated cover, such as this backflow preventer cover from Modern Leisure, available on Amazon. Just remember that a cover provides extra insulation – it doesn't replace properly draining and blowing out the system before winter.

When spring arrives, close the test cocks, open the ball valves slowly to avoid water hammer, and run each irrigation zone to check for leaks or cracked sprinkler heads. If any need replacing, Rain Bird 1800 Series pop-up spray heads from Ace Hardware are a reliable replacement for many residential systems.

Water that isn't in the pipes can't freeze in them. Remove it before winter, and spring start-up should be little more than a slow turn of the valve and a quick system check.

We all love a garden bargain but when a product goes on sale that you would happily pay full price for, you know you're getting great value for your hard-earned bucks. And this year's Prime Day doesn't disappoint with prices slashed on products from Felco pruners to Costa Farms houseplants, Keter storage to Birdfy feeders and Workpro shears. And you can skip straight to the best Amazon Prime Day deals for gardeners because our garden experts at Gardening Know-How have done all the sorting for you.

All these products have four-star or higher customer ratings, and all boast a discount of between 15% and 50%. So, whether you're buying for yourself or getting your Christmas shopping done early – and yes, it's perfectly acceptable to buy your garden a holiday gift, too – these are the deals we're shopping. From gardening tools to time-saving garden gadgets and trusty planters, these are the products you'll reach for on repeat.

Ready? Let's shop!

1. Essential Gardening Deals

Amazon Prime Day deals on everyday products that make life in the garden a little bit easier.

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Breathable, comfy rubber-coated gardening gloves at less than $2 a pair? Yes please!

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Expandable hose with anti-burst sleeve reinforced with bulletproof fiber, and swivel pivot connector.

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Wireless Thermometer

With an impressive 500' range, an outdoor thermometer takes the guesswork out of gardening.

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7-In-1 Digital Soil Tester Kit

Measures moisture, pH, soil fertility and sunlight intensity, with fast readings.

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Felco F2 Professional Pruners

All parts of these Swiss-made pruners are replaceable, to last a lifetime.

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Orange Ninja Tool Sharpener

Sharpen garden tools including pruners, shears and axes with this 7-in-1 tool.

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There's always space on a patio for a little extra growing room, and here are our best prime day planter picks.

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Mobile Raised Garden Bed

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This 6'-long V-shaped raised bed is ideal for growing short- and long-rooted veg.

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Our favorite lawn-care prime day deals, because we all a lawn that looks lusher than our neighbors'.

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Use this hand-powered spreader to cast grass seed, fertilizer, salt and ice melt.

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Grass & Shrubbery Trimmer

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Chop chop! This set of three pruning tools won't hang around for long at this price.

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Cordless Pruning Shears

Rechargeable battery-powered pruning shears that cut branches up to 1.4" in diameter.

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If there's one thing that every garden needs, it's more storage to stay clutter-free.

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One of the fun things about gardening is that there are no absolutes, including the optimal timing for pruning. Yes, you can prune a few plants in October in some regions, but mid-fall isn't the right time to give all garden plants their haircuts. For some, it can be decidedly dangerous.

Timing your fall pruning is more important than you might think. The last thing you want to do in October is chop off the buds for next season’s flowers – and this is entirely possible. Plants that set buds on old wood have set those buds by October, and every healthy branch you prune will contain those buds.

But that’s not all. Pruning plants stimulates growth. That means when you prune in October, you encourage new growth on those branches. And if you live in a region with cold winters, that tender new growth will die during the freezing weather. And don’t forget that autumn is often rainy, and fall pruning wounds can lead to fungal issues and bacterial infections. Finally, some plants are “bleeders,” oozing sap like there’s no tomorrow when pruned back in fall.

So, the question remains: which plants actually benefit from October pruning? Here is a short list of plants you should trim back this month, plus an overview of those you should absolutely not subject to mid-fall pruning. But let’s get started with some general fall-pruning tips.

Practical Fall-Pruning Tips

It’s important to get some ground rules before pruning anything at all in October, so let’s take a look at some good practices.

• Pruning time depends on region and weather. If you intend to get out the pruners in October, wait until the plants in your area enter complete winter dormancy, dropping all leaves. That may not happen until mid-month or later. If they aren’t dormant, new growth may appear during warm spells after freezing, growth that will die back overnight in the cold weather to come.
• Don’t prune in the rain or fog. Wait until a dry day comes round. Pruning during moist weather leads to fungal infections.
• Make sure your tools are clean and sharp. You may need to sterilize them during pruning if any of them are already infected. Dull cutting blades will not make clean snips. Bypass pruners are the best choice for most fall pruning jobs. The Felco F6 Bypass Pruning Shears, available on Amazon, were rated the best pruners in our testing. Keep them sharp with a Corona sharpener, also on Amazon.
• Keep the 3 Ds method of light pruning in mind. This lets you remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood without going overboard.
• Know your plants. Our list gives you a starting point for October pruning, but you may have other plants you can trim. Knowing your plants means checking which of them flower on new wood and which flower on old wood. Prune the latter group immediately after the flowers fade. New-wood bloomers will not lose flowers from an October trim.
• Think of the wildlife. Some plants produce seed pods that wildlife relies on for food or spent foliage that wildlife relies on for shelter. Leave these plants alone in fall. Wildlife makes the world go round.

Plants to Prune in October

Eenie-meeney-miney-mo is NOT the way to decide who to trim in October. And don’t even consider a whole-garden tidy-up. Any pruning should be targeted and carefully selected. Choose the landscape trees and shrubs that will benefit from pruning in October. Here are some specific plants to get you started.

1. Japanese Spirea

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Japanese spirea is a landscape favorite that grows in a compact mound and grows fast. It is beloved for its long-lasting summer flowers and dramatic multi-season foliage color.

The best time for a heavy annual pruning is in early spring. This will push the plant to bloom intensively. October is also a good time for a light prune using the 3 Ds methodology. While you’re there with the pruners, take out any spent blooms that remain on the shrub.

2. Panicle and Smooth Hydrangeas

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

The timing of pruning hydrangeas depends on the type. Old wood bloomers, such as mophead and oakleaf hydrangeas, should never be pruned in fall because you'll remove next year's flower buds. Smooth and panicle hydrangeas, however, bloom on new spring growth, making them suitable for light pruning in October.

Wait until the shrub has dropped all its leaves and is fully dormant before reaching for the pruners. If either type puts on fresh growth after an early trim, that tender new growth is more likely to be damaged by freezing temperatures.

Save any hard pruning until late winter or early spring, but a simple 3 Ds prune in late October is worthwhile. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased stems, then cut away spent flower heads – particularly on panicle hydrangeas, where the large blooms can become heavy with snow and ice and cause branches to snap. If needed, you can also shorten stems by up to one-third to tidy the shrub, leaving any major reshaping until spring.

3. Raspberries

(Image credit: Irina Shatilova / Shutterstock)

These small berry plants should not be hard-pruned in October, but summer-bearing raspberries should get targeted sanitation cuts in fall. Prune out the old, brown, wood-stemmed floricanes that finished fruiting earlier in the summer. Now’s the perfect time to cut those brown stems to the ground. At the same time, you can tie in the fresh green canes.

For fall-bearing raspberries grown for two crops, prune off only the top portion of each cane that produced fruit in fall. Leave the lower part of the cane intact, as it will produce a second crop the following summer. Once that summer crop has finished, remove the entire cane to ground level.

You can also trim or prune blackberry and gooseberry in October, but only if they are summer-fruiting varieties. Be sure you know your type, and cut the year’s fruiting canes all the way down to the ground.

4. Blueberries

(Image credit: Maksim Safaniuk / Shutterstock)

When pruning blueberries, stick to the 3 Ds pruning method in October. Inspect the shrub for any dead, diseased, or damaged canes and remove them with clean, sharp pruners. You can also clear away any weak, broken, or crossing shoots that are obviously causing problems, but save any major pruning until late winter or early spring while the plant is still dormant. At that point, you can thin out older canes to encourage vigorous new growth and better fruit production.

5. Roses

(Image credit: Melanie Griffiths)

Pruning roses is usually a late-winter or early-spring job, but October is still a good time to give both bush and shrub roses a light trim. Reducing overly long or whippy canes by about one-third helps prevent strong winter winds from rocking the plant and loosening its roots. It also makes roses easier to protect with rose cones or other winter coverings. Save any hard pruning until late winter or early spring.

October is also the perfect time to tidy up around your roses. Rake up and discard any fallen leaves and prunings, as this debris can harbor black spot spores and other fungal diseases over winter.

One exception is Knock Out roses. Because they flower on new spring growth, you can prune Knock Out roses by around one-third in October without sacrificing next year's blooms. For other rose varieties, stick to light shaping now and leave more substantial pruning until the plants are dormant in late winter.

6. Southern Magnolia

(Image credit: Getty Images)

For gardeners in the South, October is the ideal time to prune magnolia trees. Many southern magnolias continue flowering into fall, so avoid reaching for the pruners too soon, or you'll cut the display short.

After flowering has finished, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches and lightly shape the canopy if needed. It's best to avoid pruning southern magnolias in winter, as fresh cuts can cause the tree to bleed sap.

For trees, rather than risk balancing on a ladder, invest in a telescopic pole pruner, like Fiskars' 2-in-1 Extendable Tree Pruner and Pole Saw.

7. Gardenia

(Image credit: Santiago Urquijo / Getty Images)

For gardeners in warmer regions, October is also a good time to prune gardenias. These fragrant shrubs typically bloom throughout summer and can continue flowering well into fall, so it's worth waiting until the display has finished before reaching for the pruners.

Once flowering is over, remove any leggy, dead, damaged, or unhealthy growth and lightly shape the shrub to maintain its form. Avoid heavy pruning, as this can reduce next season's blooms.

8. Fruit Trees

(Image credit: Animaflora / Getty Images)

No, we are not telling you to do structural pruning on fruit trees in October. This should not happen until late winter. In October, though, it’s a good idea to remove dead and damaged wood, including broken limbs.

For pruning apple or pear trees, remove low branches that rub the ground in October. For plum or apricot trees, clip off any diseased wood or mummified fruit to prevent fungal spores from overwintering.

9. Most Herbaceous Perennials

(Image credit: Igor Paszkiewicz / Shutterstock)

Not every perennial should be cut back in the fall. In many cases, it's actually better to leave them standing through winter. Ornamental grasses add texture and interest to the garden during the colder months while also providing shelter for wildlife, and coneflower and black-eyed Susan seedheads offer an important food source for birds.

However, some herbaceous perennials are best cut back in October, particularly those prone to fungal diseases. Leaving infected foliage in place can allow problems to overwinter and reappear the following season. Iris, hollyhock, phlox, peonies, bee balm, hostas, and any plants showing signs of powdery mildew or other fungal diseases should all make your October pruning list.

10. Shrubs with Suckers

(Image credit: Tony Baggett / Shutterstock)

Most overgrown shrubs and trees are best left unpruned in late fall, as cutting them back can encourage tender new growth that's vulnerable to winter damage. One exception is suckers – the thin shoots that emerge from around a plant's base. Left unchecked, these can form dense colonies, spoil the plant's appearance, and divert energy away from the main shrub or tree.

Common landscape plants that produce troublesome suckers include dogwood, black locust, lilac, forsythia, sumac, witch hazel, and many fruit trees. During your October cleanup, cut suckers off as close to their point of origin as possible. You may need to scrape away a little soil to remove them cleanly from the base for the best results.

Fall Pruning Essentials

Our Top-Rated Pruners

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Pro gardeners can't get enough of Felco pruners – and these scored top in our testing.

Keep Blades Sharp

Corona Tools Handheld Garden Tool Sharpener

This handy sharpener keeps pruners in top condition for clean cuts.

Long Reach

Fiskars 2-In-1 Extendable Tree Pruner and Pole Saw

This telescopic tool is brilliant for trimming trees and tall climbers – no ladders required.

When to Stop Pruning in Fall

When the weather turns extreme, stop your fall pruning. This can mean rain, snow, hail, or high winds. It can also mean drought. These conditions put plants under stress so you should avoid adding pruning stress.

What Not to Prune in October

Generally, you should never prune plants in October if they bloom on old wood, including spring-blooming shrubs that form their flower buds on old wood (like lilacs, forsythia, and rhododendron).

Also avoid pruning plants that use their summer growth to survive winter weather, and plants that support wildlife. These include plants like black-eyed Susan, coneflower, ornamental grasses and Russian sage.

It’s also a good idea to avoid cutting trees like maples, birches, dogwood and elm are sap-heavy and they can leak excessive sap if cut in autumn.

October is a good time to shift geranium care from promoting summer growth to preparing for cooler weather. Depending on where you garden, your geraniums may still be blooming heavily, but eventually these tender flowers will face winter, and you'll need to do some prep work.

It’s important to note that geranium care depends on the type you’re growing. The term geranium usually refers to a tender perennial most gardeners grow as annuals, known as Pelargonium. True geraniums are different and are hardier perennials often called cranesbill. Here, we’ll cover essential fall care for Pelargoniums, with a few notes on true geraniums.

1. Deadhead and Trim Lightly

(Image credit: Getty Images)

To encourage blooms for as long as possible, keep deadheading your geraniums. Cut the entire faded flower stalk back to where it meets the main stem using a pair of sharp bypass pruners, such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, to make clean cuts without crushing the stems. Eventually, the plants will slow and stop blooming naturally as the weather cools. This is normal.

It’s also a good idea to trim back any damaged or yellow foliage. Keep an eye out for signs of fungus or mold and remove and dispose of any leaves that look infected. Especially if you’re bringing plants indoors for winter, diseased and damaged foliage will persist and cause issues if you don’t remove it now.

If you have hardy geraniums, you can do a tidying trim, but they don’t need a heavy trim now or much deadheading.

2. Cut Back on Fertilizer

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Tender geraniums benefit from regular feedings throughout the summer. Bloom-boosting products, like Scotts Super Super Bloom, keep them flowering well into fall, but by October it's time to stop feeding in most areas. Too much fertilizer can trigger fresh, green growth at a time when the plant should be slowing down and preparing for winter. True geraniums generally don't need fertilizer in fall.

3. Adjust Your Watering Schedule

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You can also cut back on watering this time of year, but don’t let your plants dry out too much. This adjustment is based on need, not a complete stop to watering. Cooler temperatures and shorter days usually mean the soil stays moist for longer, so you may not need to water as often.

If it isn't raining, check the soil and water when the top inch (2.5 cm) feels dry. Use a moisture meter if you don't trust the finger test – the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available on Amazon, also checks soil pH, temperature, and sunlight intensity.

If you’re moving geraniums indoors for winter, taper off watering before you move them. Hardy geraniums don’t need much water, especially if they are well established. Water only if you have drought conditions or excessive heat.

4. Take Cuttings

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Even if you plan to keep Pelargoniums indoors for winter, early to mid-fall is a good time to propagate geraniums from cuttings. Not all tender geraniums will survive winter indoors, despite your best efforts. Cuttings serve as insurance against this failure, especially if you have favorite plants you want to enjoy again next year.

Choose a healthy-looking, non-flowering stem and use sharp, clean shears to remove four to six inches (10 to 15 cm). Place the cut end in quality potting soil or rooting mix, like this Soil Sunrise Plant Propagation Potting Mix. Place it in a spot with bright but indirect sunlight and warmth. Keep the medium moist but not soggy as the roots grow.

Hardy geraniums are best propagated by root division. Fall is a good time to do this. Carefully dig up the plant, separate a clump of roots that has plenty of healthy growth, and replant it right away. Water it as it gets established.

5. Shelter Tender Geraniums

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While you can always let your tender geraniums go as temperatures drop, a little protection can help you enjoy them longer if they're still flowering. Move potted plants to a sheltered location that protects them from wind, or to a spot that’s sunnier throughout the day.

Use plant covers, like this frost blanket from Amazon, or even an old sheet or burlap to cover tender geraniums overnight as temperatures drop. If daytime temperatures still support them, this can help you get a few more flowers and more enjoyment from your plants.

6. Bring Tender Geraniums Indoors

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Many people treat geraniums as true annuals, disposing of them at the end of the season. They are perennials only in very warm areas, generally USDA zones 10 and higher, so they won’t survive winter outdoors in most places. As an alternative to letting them go, you can bring potted geraniums indoors to overwinter. True geraniums are usually hardy from zones 3 through 8, so they’re fine in winter in most areas.

Bring your potted plants inside before overnight temperatures regularly fall below 45–50°F (7–10°C), or before the first frost if that comes sooner. Trim back about one-third of the foliage and place the plant in a bright spot but away from cold drafts or vents. Always check for pests before bringing any plants indoors. Look along stems and on the undersides of leaves and remove all pests to avoid contaminating houseplants.

If you find signs of pests, spray plants with an organic neem oil product, such as Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil spray from Amazon, before bringing them indoors, making sure to coat both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves. Allow the foliage to dry completely before moving the plant inside.

Fall Geranium Care Essentials

Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil Ready-To-Use Spray

Soil Sunrise Plant Propagation Potting Mix

Valibe Plant Covers Freeze Protection

Fall care for geraniums has two main purposes: helping you enjoy the flowers for as long as possible and preparing plants you want to save for winter storage. While you can simply let your annuals fade into winter, a little extra care extends the bloom time and even allows you to keep plants for next year. And if you grow hardy geraniums, you're in luck. Fall care needs are low, and they should be back next year.

There is something rather beautiful about a garden at the end of the season. Flowers that were once bright and full are beginning to fade, petals have fallen away and seed heads have taken their place, but rather than looking finished, many plants take on an entirely different character.

Don't believe me? Just ask Martha Stewart, who has made a point of turning the slightly weathered and faded beauty of late-season flowers into an atmospheric Halloween display.

Honestly, if you love the season of the witch, it's a brilliant way to add your own unique twist to your Halloween decorations. Because, sure, pumpkins might be traditional, but there are more fall décor options to be found around your garden (and no, we're not just talking about your spooky porch plants).

Martha Stewart's Halloween Flower Trick

A long way from the usual pumpkins, plastic spiders and orange decorations, Martha Stewart's Halloween display uses the things a garden naturally gives us at this time of year: think dried flowers, dark seed heads, wispy grasses and stems that have been allowed to age in place.

Set against deep, muted colors and a few carefully chosen spooky details, the result feels more like an autumn still life than traditional Halloween décor. Or, you know, something that Morticia Addams would proudly display on her dining room table.

Check it out:

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If you want to recreate Martha Stewart's Halloween display for yourself, then you may already have much of what you need growing in your garden. (Although if you want that skeletal effect, you can get a very similar Halloween Skull Planter from Amazon).

Scabiosa, for example, develops delicate seed heads, while coneflowers (true to their name!) leave behind sturdy cones that can remain attractive well into fall. Alliums somehow become even more magnificent once their flowers have dried, and ornamental grasses take on an airy quality that works particularly well in an autumn arrangement.

Even flowers that might look a little past their prime can have their place; faded hydrangeas develop wonderfully muted shades of green, mauve and brown, while spent dahlias and roses can add the darker texture that makes a Halloween display feel atmospheric rather than overly polished.

Shop Halloween Accessories:

Acellegic Halloween Skull Planters

Boston International Halloween Taper Candle Holders

Ynxee Human Heart Organ Shape Vase

Martha Stewart has long embraced this kind of seasonal material in her Halloween decorating, recommending everything from dried pods to rose hips for arrangements. The idea is less about finding a perfect black flower and more about bringing together unusual shapes and textures.

It's particularly appealing as it doesn't require you to grow anything specifically for Halloween; if you've been growing flowers throughout summer, take another look at them before you clear the garden for winter, choose a handful of the most interesting shapes and bring them indoors.

For a more Halloween-inspired look, work with deep reds, burgundies, browns and muted greens rather than relying entirely on orange and black. A black taper candle (available as a pack of four from Leor & Lair)can provide the final touch without overwhelming the plants themselves. And there's nothing stopping you from adding a skull or a pair of skeletal hands, as Martha's display does.

(Image credit: Catherine McQueen / Getty Images)

While some plants benefit from being deadheaded, there are good reasons to leave other seed heads standing for a little longer. They can provide food and shelter for wildlife, add winter structure to borders and, as this display demonstrates, provide beautiful material for seasonal decorating.

So before you cut everything back and tidy away the last remains of summer, take a leaf from Martha Stewart’s book. After all, those faded flowers may not be finished just yet; they might simply be waiting to give their best performance as particularly pretty members of the undead!

Once October turns gray and drizzly, the hose tends to be wound up on its reel and stored away for the winter. It’s tempting to believe that the sky has the job covered from here until the end of the year. For long-established trees and deep-rooted shrubs, that may be close to true. However, for newly planted trees and shrubs you added in the past 6-12 months, it’s another matter. The gap between a wet surface and a thoroughly soaked root ball is where countless fall plantings quietly fail.

Standard advice on watering the garden often counts rainfall against the weekly watering total, which works fine provided someone is measuring how much moisture penetrates the soil. A light autumn shower or drizzly afternoon may darken surface mulch and wet the top inch of soil, giving the illusion of a drenched yard. But a significant portion of that will evaporate or run off before ever reaching the roots below. The yard may look watered, but the root ball often remains bone dry.

For many newly planted shrubs and trees, consistent hydration remains critical until the soil freezes solid. While above-ground branches settle into winter dormancy, young roots actively expand into cool fall soil. Ensuring these fresh roots receive adequate moisture protects them against winter desiccation, frost-heaving, and freeze damage, setting the stage for explosive spring growth. So if you’ve heard it’s OK to stop watering in fall, here’s the truth for new trees and shrubs…

Meet the Myth

On the surface, the logic behind stopping your fall watering routine seems entirely sound. Cooler air temperatures reduce transpiration (the process where plants lose water vapor through their leaves). Autumn weather naturally feels wetter, characterized by heavy morning dews, misty rain, and overcast skies that linger for days. Lower water demand is a real thing in autumn: an established oak, maple, or lilac with years of expansive roots spread through native soil can easily ride out a dry October with little fuss. However, for anything planted this year, the logic falls apart.

(Image credit: Philippe Gerber / Getty Images)

The root system of a freshly transplanted shrub or tree remains confined to its original root ball for many months. This root ball frequently dries out far faster than the surrounding native soil, primarily due to textural differences. Commercial nursery potting media (often composed of lightweight pine bark and peat) drains rapidly, creating a moisture barrier where it meets heavier native clay or loam. Water moving across this soil boundary slows down, so native soil can feel damp while the root ball remains dry. Furthermore, dense canopies on evergreens like arborvitae or boxwoods act like umbrellas, deflecting rainfall outward past young roots.

Why the Myth Sticks

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Surface appearances can be remarkably persuasive to busy gardeners. Dripping roof gutters, slick driveways, and damp patio pavers give the illusion of a thoroughly soaked yard when viewed from the comfort of your kitchen window, even on days when a rain gauge reveals barely a quarter-inch (6mm) of precipitation fell. Damp wood mulch acts much like a deceiving weather report, masking dry soil hidden just two inches (5cm) beneath the surface.

The primary reason this myth persists so stubbornly is a delay in visible symptoms. Root damage caused by dry fall soil rarely manifests right away. Trees and shrubs with root systems that have been injured over a dry fall and winter often leaf out normally in early spring, drawing on stored starch reserves. However, once the heat of late spring or midsummer arrives, these compromised plants collapse and die as their damaged roots fail to supply water. At that point, you might blame the heat, poor nursery stock, or disease, and the problems of October are long forgotten. Recognizing that can help you avoid this costly, disheartening trap.

Problems with the Myth

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Root growth continues long after leaves change color and drop in fall. Tree and shrub roots can keep growing as long as soil temperatures remain above 40°F (4°C), which often extends weeks past the first hard frost. This late-season growth is the primary advantage of fall planting in the first place, but that growth relies on available soil moisture. Without consistent water, root tips wither, halting establishment and leaving the shrub weak as winter approaches.

Cold weather imposes its own pressures. Dry soil contains air pockets that freeze rapidly, conducting sub-zero temperatures deep into the root zone. Conversely, moist soil holds thermal energy, insulating roots against rapid temperature swings. Roots are far less cold-hardy than above-ground woody stems. While branches might survive sub-zero winds, tender roots suffer cell death when soil temperatures drop below 20°F (-7°C). A good mulch, such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch from Amazon, can help protect existing soil moisture levels, but it cannot just be assumed that the soil is moist enough to keep new plants and trees in good shape.

Evergreen trees and shrubs endure the worst consequences of fall drought. Needles and broadleaf foliage keep losing water on bright, windy winter days. If the root ball entered winter dry and froze solid, roots can’t replace the lost water. This can result in severe browning foliage on the windward or sunny side of the plant, known as winter burn. Dry soil also contributes to frost-heaving, where freezing cycles lift poorly anchored plants out of the ground, exposing bare roots to freezing air.

Beyond the Myth: Real Rules

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A reliable guideline for newly planted tree and shrub care goes like this: if your yard receives less than an inch (2.5cm) of natural rain within a 5-7-day period, newly planted trees and shrubs require manual watering. Applying around 10 gallons (38 L) of water twice weekly effectively drenches a standard 20-24-inch (51-61cm) root ball, providing the equivalent of that missing inch of rain.

Guessing at rainfall amounts allows the fall watering myth to persist. Installing an inexpensive, wide-mouth rain gauge on a fence post eliminates guesswork. The AcuRite Blue Capacity Rain Gauge, available from Walmart, costs only $6, with numbers big enough to read without walking out in slippers. However, rain gauges cannot account for dense foliage or thick layers of mulch. The most reliable test is manual inspection. Push a long screwdriver 2 inches (5cm) into the central area (gently). If soil comes up dry, gritty, or warm, it’s time to water thoroughly.

Delivery speed is critical when watering fall plantings. Dumping water rapidly from a bucket or high-pressure hose nozzle causes water to sheet off the compacted surface of a root ball, running into surrounding native soil without penetrating the core. Instead, go for slow, low-pressure soaking methods that allow moisture to sink deep into the root zone. Sandy soils drain rapidly and may require two light soakings weekly, while heavy loam responds best to one deep, slow soaking every 7 days.

Taking Action With New Plantings

(Image credit: Irina Petrova / Getty Images)

In fall, establish a weekly monitoring routine for every tree and shrub planted this year, aiming for a slow, deep soak. You can get watering bags, such as the Oyezvary Twenty-Gallon Tree Watering Bags from The Home Depot, which release water slowly. The Melnor Flat Soaker Hose, available from Lowe’s, does the same for a hedge row or a cluster of shrubs.

When watering young trees, drench both the root ball and the surrounding backfill soil. Soaking the backfill encourages roots to venture out to help strengthen and support the plant. Continue this deep-soaking routine right up until the ground freezes solid. Once topsoil freezes hard, stop watering, as plant roots can’t pull water out of frozen soil anyway. In southern climates (zones 8-10) where ground freezes rarely occur, continue checking soil moisture monthly throughout winter, applying a deep soak during dry, warm spells above 40°F (4°C).

(Image credit: Claire Plumridge / Getty Images)

Finish by spreading a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) layer of organic wood mulch in a wide ring around the tree or shrub, pulling it back 3 inches (8cm) from the trunk. Make sure you always water first before you mulch. Remember: mulch acts as a protective blanket to contain existing soil moisture and insulate root temperatures, but it cannot generate moisture all on its own.

Fall rain isn’t useless. A heavy storm that delivers a full inch (2.5cm) of rain over 24 hours covers your watering duties for the week, allowing you to leave the hose coiled with a clear conscience. The rest of the time, a quick rainfall check and a manual soil probe can help to ensure that your new plantings thrive for years to come. Taking a few quiet minutes each week gives your younger garden characters the best possible start. Trust the process, embrace the quiet rhythm of fall garden care, and enjoy watching your new trees and shrubs flourish when the warmer days return…

More Garden Mythbusters

• Does the Pointy End of a Bulb Really Need to Be Facing Up When You Plant It?
• Vegetable Companion Planting Myths – Plus, the Planting Pairs that Really Work
• Does Gravel in the Base of Pots Really Help with Drainage?
• Do Pine Needles Make Your Soil Dangerously Acidic?
• Will Leaves Left on the Lawn Always Smother and Kill Grass?

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

It’s easy to think cold weather is what kills off your lavender. Soggy roots and soft late growth in cold winds tend to cause the real trouble, and a few changes in early fall can get you ahead of both.

Lavender is native to dry, stony hillsides around the Mediterranean, and a long, wet winter in a garden bed is not even close to those conditions. Winterizing lavender plants doesn’t take a whole lot of effort, though. Most of your work will take place in late summer and early fall, well before the first real freeze shows up.

The year-round lavender care already covers the biggest factor. That is, soil that drains fast in a spot with full sun. Heavy clay or low, soggy ground starts winter at a disadvantage. Beyond that, fall prep mostly comes down to doing things a bit earlier and doing less with them.

Start with a Green Sweep

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The first thing to do is a "green sweep" pruning. This is a light trim that stays inside the leafy part of the plant. Gather a loose handful of stems and cut away about one-third of their length. Leave an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of this year’s green growth above where the wood starts. Lavender rarely produces new shoots from bare wood, so stems cut into the woody base may not regrow. What you trim off is fragrant and can be tied in bundles and dried.

Always use clean, sharp blades. They cut more smoothly and reduce damage to the remaining stems. Hand pruners are plenty for one or two plants, but remember that a rounded plant shape sheds snow better than a flat top. For a long row, hedge shears like Fiskars' Power-Lever Garden Hedge Shears save time and come in different sizes on Amazon.

Four to six weeks before the first hard freeze is the usual window, but a later trim can produce soft growth that has no time to harden off. Many gardeners limit fall work in the coldest regions to deadheading and leave shaping until spring. Spanish and French lavender are less cold-hardy and are usually only deadheaded in fall.

Stop Fertilizing by Late Summer

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Lavender fertilizer applied in September often produces dead stem tips by spring. Late nitrogen encourages new growth when the plant should be slowing down, and that growth is usually the first to show cold damage. Lavender does fine in soil of low to moderate fertility.

Early August is the practical cutoff in most regions for liquid feeds and slow-release granules, which can reach the root zone when spread around nearby perennials. Don’t feed until new growth appears at the base in spring. Established plants in reasonable soil rarely need more than a light application even then. A light compost mulch in spring is enough for the season.

Taper Off the Watering

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Lavender in winter is more often killed by wet soil than by low temperatures, especially in regions with rainy winters. Water less often and let the soil dry a few inches (5–8 cm) down as the days shorten. Rainfall can be enough for established plants in the ground. Bark and wood chip mulch should be pulled back from the crown, and pea gravel, like this one from The Mighty 109 Store via Amazon, is better if the base needs covering.

That doesn’t mean to stop watering altogether. Plants under drought stress tend to handle cold less well, so a final deep soak before a cold snap is worthwhile if you haven’t gotten rain in a while.

Container lavender plants dry out faster and can freeze through, so push a finger an inch (2.5 cm) into the mix to check them, and water if it comes out dry. Pots raised on feet, like Bosmere Pot Toes, drain faster than pots set flat on a hard surface. On the coldest nights, moving pots against a house wall or under a covered porch helps.

Protect Plants from Winter Wind

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Wind is a significant cause of winter damage. Lavender keeps its gray-green foliage all season. On cold, windy days, those leaves lose moisture, and roots in frozen ground can’t replace it. Exposed plants usually brown on the windward side first. Reduce some of that exposure by siting it next to a wall or fence.

A screen is one of the most practical ways to winterize lavender plants in an open yard. Drive several fir wood garden stakes, like these from Walmart, into the ground on the windward side, then stretch a natural jute burlap roll across them. Home Depot sells a 63-inch (160 cm) roll with enough length for a full row. Keep the fabric several inches (8–10 cm) away from the foliage so air can move through. You don’t need to envelop the whole plant. Just use it as a windbreak.

In the coldest zones, a breathable cover placed over plants after the first hard frost adds extra protection. Remove it once spring warms up, though.

Lavender Winterizing Essentials

Valibe Blanket Plant Covers for Freeze Protection

Bosmere Pot Toes Pack of 12

Mighty 109 Grey Pea Gravel 40 lbs

Plants can often look gray and untidy in early spring, but browning in March doesn’t always mean the plant is dead. Knowing how to overwinter lavender includes waiting for visible signs of recovery. Once new green growth appears near the base, cut away any stems that snap rather than bend.

Some flower seeds do far better when sown in fall, so you can simply scatter them onto bare soil now and – hey presto! – they’ll transform into abundant blooms by next year. This is one of nature’s finest magic tricks and you really should take advantage, because there is no easier or cheaper way to fill your yard with blooms than these flower seeds to sow in fall.

All these plants are self-seeders so they don’t need any molly-coddling from you. Sow them in October and all the work is naturally done for you. Some of the seeds require a period of cold – called cold stratification – to germinate; for others, the freeze-thaw cycle cracks tough outer shells. Triggered by warming weather and lengthening days in spring, they’ll sprout at the perfect point, and rain will keep the seedlings watered. Some are even tough enough to sprout in fall and survive winter unscathed.

These seeds all like a little light to germinate, too, so you don’t even have to rake them into the ground. And the reward for your minimal efforts? Bigger, stronger plants than if you’d sown the exact same seeds in spring, for lots more flowers. So, if you're wondering what to sow in October and fancy a garden that almost takes care of itself, start right here. If you’ve already got any of these beauties in your garden, now’s the time to snap off a seedhead and shake it wherever you fancy having more growing, too.

1. Annual Poppies

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Annual corn poppies (Papaver rhoeas) and opium or breadseed poppies (Papaver somniferum) both thrive with a fall sowing and are some of the prettiest plants that practically grow by themselves. They need a period of cold to germinate so you can pop the seed into the fridge for a few weeks – or do it the easy way and let winter work its magic! Scatter the tiny seeds in full sun after the first hard frost in zones 6-9, and you’re done.

Eden Brothers stocks a super selection: Papaver somniferum ‘Lauren’s Grape’ packs a punch with prolific plum-toned flowers, while Papaver rhoeas ‘Amazing Grey’ has crinkly petals in lilac and grey shades, and is much coveted as a cut flower. Or for a lovely addition of color running through a border, ‘Angels Choir Poppy Mix’ is a wonderful mish-mash of warm-hued varieties.

2. Love-in-a-Mist

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Nigella hates having its roots disturbed so is always best direct-sown where you want it to grow, and a fall sowing brings stronger, taller plants that bloom weeks ahead of seeds cast in spring. In zones 7-9, go ahead and scatter seed now as seedlings will endure temperatures down to 23°F (-5°C), or wait till winter is here in zone 6 to ensure spring germination.

For a fall sowing, steer clear of common Nigella damascena unless you have fast-draining soil as the seedlings won’t tolerate sitting in cold wet ground. Instead, choose Nigella papillosa, which is far more robust. Love-in-a-mist ‘Delft Blue’, available from Botanical Interests, has rich violet-blue hues on white petals, reminiscent of the famous blue-and-white pottery it’s named after. Love-in-a-mist ‘African Bride’, also available from Botanical Interests and a similarly tough cookie perfect for fall sowing, is just as beautiful and produces incredible lantern-like seedpods once flowers have faded.

3. Bachelor’s Button

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Cornflowers are one of the easiest of all flowers to sow from a fall scattering in zones 8-10, yet you can pay an absolute fortune for the dried petals to use as herbal tea or confetti. Centaurea cyanus do prefer a little darkness to germinate well, so it’s best to quickly rake over the soil to cover them lightly.

Plain ol’ blue cornflowers, available from Amazon, are beautiful in their own right but if you like to bring flowers inside for vases, then try a tall blend of mixed color bachelor’s buttons, available from Botanical Interests. If sultry colors are more of a border fit for your garden, then ‘Black Magic’ cornflowers, also available from Botanical Interests is a tried and tested favorite.

4. Sweet Alyssum

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Steal a trick from cottage-gardeners and scatter Lobularia maritima seeds in fall in zones 7-11, and a fragrant low carpet of flowers will magically appear in spring. They're such easy flowers to grow from seed and are one of the best flowering groundcover plants, so it's a wonder this quick fall task isn't standard practice in all gardens! Sweet alyssum seeds need light to germinate and young plants cope with repeated light frosts, overwintering as small rosettes, ready to bloom weeks ahead of spring-sown seeds. The sweet honey-like perfume of the flowers is a delightful addition to those first warm days of the year.

‘Royal Carpet’ sweet alyssum, available from Walmart, brings a tapestry of white, lilac and purple flowers, while ‘Sweet White’ sweet alyssum, available from Lowe’s, does exactly what it says on the tin.

5. Purple Coneflower

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Echinacea purpurea are perennials that need a cold period to germinate, so grow well from a fall sowing in zones 3-9. Although purple coneflower seeds benefit from light to sprout, it’s customary to cover them with a light dusting of soil simply to deter birds from snaffling up what is one of their favorite snacks. The other alternative, of course, is just to fling plenty of seeds into your border, and seeds of this native wildflower are cheap to buy, such as this bumper pack of purple coneflower seeds from Amazon.

Wait till after the first frost before sowing in zones 3-4, to guard against premature germination in any unseasonably warm fall weather. In zones 8-9, choose a spot with excellent drainage – a raised bed is ideal – to avoid seeds rotting over winter.

6. California Poppy

(Image credit: Jon Farmer / Getty Images)

Such is their will to live, you can simply toss the tiny seeds of Eschscholzia californica onto bare earth in zones 8-10 in fall and the seedlings will survive to bloom early next year. Choose a sunny spot to surface-sow your California poppy seeds and let fall rain do the rest.

Take a look at Eden Brothers’ California poppy range for inspiration. As well as the classic orange of California’s state flower, there are all sorts of varieties such as Thai Silk Pink Champagne California poppy and Appleblossom Chiffon California poppy with petals as fabulous as their names suggest.

7. Bells of Ireland

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As they need both light and a period of cold to germinate, you can steal a head start on growing Bells of Ireland (Moluccella laevis) in zones 6-9 with a fall sowing. Their tough seeds will sit dormant through the winter cold, then germinate as soon as it’s warm enough in spring. In zones 8 and warmer, go ahead and sow now; in colder zones though, wait till right after your first frost before sowing, so seeds don’t sprout prematurely.

These stately spires of flowers are a must for any garden, growing to a neat 2-3 feet tall and adding unusual texture as well as a fresh pop of green. The flowers last well in a vase so these are a fabulous addition to bouquets, if you like to grow cut flowers from seed for blooms all summer long. For a reliable fall sowing, bells of Ireland seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

8. Columbine

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Aquilegia benefit from winter stratification and they need light to germinate, making them one of the best flower seeds to sow in fall in zones 3-9. These direct-sow seeds also appreciate starting life out where they will grow. You’ll need to be a little patient, however, as columbine is a perennial that spends its first year concentrating on roots and pretty foliage, but boy, is the yearly spring show of flowers after that worth the wait. Fling and forget columbine seeds this October and be surprised by the flurry of cottage-garden blooms in their second year.

There’s a huge range of columbines to choose from, from the dainty blue Aquilegia caerulea, available from Amazon, to the mighty Aquilegia cultorum columbines, stocked by Botanical Interests, bred for their large flowers and color variety. In zones 8-9 with mild winters, toss the seed packet in your fridge for a couple of weeks before sowing, to make sure they get the cold they need to sprout.

Tips for a Successful Fall Sowing

All these seeds naturally self-seed so all you need do is mimic nature and plants will grow well from a fall sowing with minimum intervention. A few simple prep steps, however, will help to ensure good germination.

• If you can, rake the soil before sowing to break up any clumps and form a fine ‘tilth’. This ensures seeds have good contact with the soil and makes it easy for young roots to penetrate the ground.
• Water the soil before sowing if it hasn’t rained recently. Sowing onto moist soil means there’s no need to water straight after sowing, which can wash small seeds away.
• Read the sowing instructions on the seed packet carefully to see exactly how much light the seeds need to germinate. All these seeds will germinate from a surface sowing but some will benefit from being lightly raked into the soil.
• Some seed is so tiny that it’s very hard to see where you’ve sown. Mix seed with fine sand first, so you can see where it's landed so spread it more evenly.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

There's no easier or cheaper way to fill borders with blooms than to scatter these seeds in fall, then look forward to flowers popping up here, there and everywhere. Once you've got these self-reliant beauties growing in your yard, you can easily collect seeds to distribute around your garden for yet more blooms, too.

Add in flower seeds to fling and forget in spring and you have yourself a garden full of flowers that practically grow themselves.

Everybody who likes weeding, stand up! Of course, not a soul rises to their feet. Pulling out weeds is one of our least favorite garden tasks in spring. That’s why I have compiled my best tricks and tips to stop those weeds from appearing.

Fall is the optimal moment to take action for weed control. That’s because those nasty perennial weeds use fall as feeding season, taking up nutrients from the soil and moving carbohydrates produced by photosynthesis to the roots for winter storage. Any herbicides applied in fall travel with the carbohydrates to the roots, killing the entire plant.

The key to getting weed control measures in place in autumn is finding simple tasks that are super effective. That way you aren’t likely to avoid them. But we promise, every one of these steps that you take will make a real dent in the number of weeds that you see in spring.

1. Stop Weeds From Spreading by Deadheading Them

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Generally, gardeners use the term deadheading to mean removing spent flowers from your desirable, cultivated plants. The idea is to prevent the plants from investing energy in seeds and propagation instead of new flower buds. This type of fall deadheading does not reduce weeds.

On the other hand, deadheading invasive weeds can prevent them from spreading. Take a look around your garden. If you see that weeds in the garden have gone to seed, snip off those seed heads in autumn. That way, the seeds cannot scatter in the wind.

Use clean, sharp bypass pruners, such as the ever-popular Felco F2 Classic Hand Pruners available on Amazon, to cut off the flower heads before they fully mature, then collect and dispose of them in the trash rather than adding them to your compost pile if they contain viable seed.

2. Treat Perennial Weeds in Early Fall

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Chemicals should always be a last resort in the garden. But if you decide they're necessary, early fall is often the best time to treat established perennial weeds with a post-emergence weed killer. At this time of year, only the above-ground foliage dies back. As the plant moves sugars and stored energy into its roots to survive the winter, systemic herbicides can also move into the root system, making treatments more effective and potentially reducing the number of applications needed.

Apply a weed killer before persistent perennial weeds such as dandelions, creeping Charlie, Canada thistle, or broadleaf plantain take over. These weeds return year after year from the same root system, so simply removing the foliage rarely gets rid of them for good.

If you prefer to avoid glyphosate, consider a product such as Bonide Captain Jack's Deadweed Brew, available from Amazon. Approved for organic gardening, it's a fast-acting, non-selective weed killer that's suitable for use around flower and vegetable gardens. Because it's a contact herbicide rather than a systemic one, established perennial weeds may require repeat applications to exhaust the roots. Always read and follow the label directions carefully.

3. Pull Young Annual Weeds Before They Take Hold

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Some gardeners prefer to avoid chemical weed killers altogether, and if you're one of them, you can still get ahead of annual weeds such as henbit, deadnettle, and common chickweed. Winter annuals germinate from seed in the fall and spend the winter as small seedlings. Watch for them to emerge in October, then pull them out, roots and all.

Plants are always easiest to remove when they're young. You can lightly rake seedlings out, but hand pulling is often just as quick. A hand weeding tool, such as the CobraHead Original Weeder & Cultivator, makes it easier to loosen the soil around the roots so you can lift the entire plant without it snapping off. Take care not to disturb the soil surface too much, as that can bring buried weed seeds to the surface, where they're more likely to germinate.

4. Plant Cover Crops

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Cover crops occupy territory that weeds would have liked to take over. They are very efficient at suppressing weeds by creating a dense canopy that keeps weed seeds in the dark. Fall cover crops like cereal rye and oats compete for sunlight, moisture, and nutrients, leaving little to support winter annual weeds from germinating.

Other top fall cover crops for weed suppression include crimson clover, which forms a thick carpet of foliage; hairy vetch, a winter-hardy annual legume that blankets the soil; and forage radish, which quickly shades the soil. If you're sowing a new cover crop this fall, Eden Brothers also stocks crimson clover, as well as an organic cover crop seed mix.

5. Mulch Bare Soil

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Organic mulch like homemade compost or chopped, fallen leaves helps the garden in so many ways. The mulch layer holds in moisture and helps regulate the soil temperature. But that's not all.

When you cover bare soil with a 2–3 inch (5–7.5 cm) layer of mulch, it blocks sunlight, making it much harder for dormant weed seeds to germinate. If you don't have enough leaves or homemade compost, a natural wood mulch, such as Hyponex by Scotts Brown Mulch from Walmart, is an easy way to cover exposed soil before winter.

6. Do a Thorough Fall Garden Cleanup

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A general fall clean-up is a garden tradition, and this habit can help you prevent weeds. Take out all debris from your garden beds as well as your vegetable gardens. It’s a good time to notice which weeds you are dealing with in your landscape. That will help you plan your weed attack.

For example, if crabgrass is everywhere in fall, you might plan to use a pre-emergence herbicide again in the spring. This will take out the crabgrass seed before it germinates in your garden.

Fall Weeding Essentials

Bonide Captain Jack's Deadweed Brew

Cobrahead Original Weeder & Cultivator

Grampa's Weeder Original Stand Up Weed Puller Tool

What NOT to Do in Fall

Do not work the soil in autumn. Tilling the soil is what you do when you want to encourage seeds to grow. You don’t want weed seeds to grow in fall, so just don’t turn or till the soil, certainly not deeply. Add the mulch, then leave the soil alone.

As October arrives and fall weather settles in, your focus may naturally shift towards fall cleanup and preparing the yard for winter. While spring clean-up may get more attention, October tasks are just as vital for maintaining healthy, robust shrubs. This is especially true for garden workhorses like hydrangeas. The care they receive during these crisp, shifting fall weeks can directly determine performance next year.

Hydrangea care in October is a happy mix of strategic actions, requiring as many "don’ts" as "do’s" for safeguarding plant health. Knowing what yours needs before the cold weather settles in will help shield vulnerable roots and protect stems from frost damage. Thankfully, completing these essential fall maintenance steps takes very little time, while paying massive dividends when the warmer weather returns.

Taking time to care for your hydrangeas now ensures they emerge from winter dormancy in peak condition. Whether you grow bigleaf mopheads, lacecaps, cold-hardy panicles, or dramatic oakleaf hydrangeas, these easycare steps can protect your shrubs, safeguard dormant buds, and guarantee a breathtaking, bloom-filled display next summer.

Helping Hydrangeas in October

Preparing hydrangeas for winter now requires a clear understanding of how soil, moisture, and light conditions change as daylight shortens. While fall rain can often reduce the need for daily watering, you still need to make sure that your shrubs enter winter with adequately moist soil. Cold, icy winds can dehydrate plant tissue, and well-hydrated roots withstand freeze-thaw cycles far better than they do when dry. So continue watering deeply during dry spells until the ground freezes.

What you do in October will depend on which type of hydrangea you are growing. Panicle (H. paniculata) and smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas bloom on new wood produced in spring, making them very cold-hardy and forgiving. Conversely, bigleaf (H. macrophylla), mountain (H. serrata), and oakleaf (H. quercifolia) types set their flower buds on old wood in late summer. For these old-wood bloomers, it’s important to protect overwintering stems and terminal buds from harsh frosts.

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Regional climate variations will also have some bearing. In northern regions (USDA zones 3-5), it’s important to prioritize root insulation and wind protection before hard freezes set in. Sprinkling a handful of Espoma Organic Bio-Tone Starter Plus, available from Walmart, around the base of your hydrangeas can strengthen roots ahead of winter. In the south (zones 7-9), it’s best to focus on gentle soil conditioning and light debris removal Here’s what you need to do this month to get your hydrangea ready for even bigger blooming displays next year…

1. Halt All Fertilizer Applications

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Start your October hydrangea checklist with the easiest task of all: a complete hold on fertilizing. If you have been applying monthly fertilizer to boost foliage and flower size, now is the time to stop. Simply resist the urge to feed your hydrangeas as the weather cools. This pause is vital for health. The purpose of feeding is to encourage new shoots and foliage. But any tender new branches produced now will die in the winter weather, leaving the plant vulnerable to stem dieback and fungal infections.

This rule applies to all hydrangea types, whether old-wood mopheads or new-wood panicles. Ceasing fertilizer allows the shrub to shift its energy into natural dormancy, hardening its bark and storing carbohydrate reserves in its root system. Instead of feeding foliage now, top-dress the soil with a clean organic amendment like kelp meal to quietly support root health without forcing unwanted top growth. Down to Earth Organic Kelp Meal, available from Amazon, gives soil health a natural boost. This potassium-rich seaweed meal improves cold hardiness.

2. Rake Up and Clear Fallen Debris

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Falling tree leaves blanket garden beds, while hydrangeas begin dropping their own yellowing foliage. A scattered layer may seem harmless, but thick mats of soggy plant debris beneath your hydrangeas can create disease and pest issues. Common fungal diseases like leaf spot, powdery mildew, and botrytis blight produce spores that survive in damp, decaying leaf litter. When spring rains arrive, these spores splash back up onto emerging shoots, re-infecting the shrub before it finishes leafing out. Clearing fallen leaf litter is a key defense against overwintering pathogens.

Oakleaf and bigleaf hydrangeas are especially susceptible to leaf spot. Use a light hand rake or leaf claw to clear away spent foliage. The excellent compact Gardena Combisystem Hand Rake from Amazon is perfect for clearing debris around delicate shrub bases without damaging stems. Place diseased leaves straight into popup garden waste bags rather than your home compost heap. Collapsible options like the Fiskars Kangaroo 10-Gallon Collapsible Vinyl Garden Bags from Walmart are really durable and make gathering and transporting soggy leaves effortless.

3. Apply a Protective Layer of Organic Mulch

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Applying a fresh blanket of organic mulch is one of the most effective ways to shield hydrangeas from winter weather. Mulching keeps soil cool on hot days in fall and warm on cooler days in winter. It also holds moisture into the soil and stops weeds appearing. Choose high-quality organic mulches, such as shredded hardwood, bark chips, pine straw, or well-rotted leaf mold. You can buy Back to the Roots Organic Premium Bark Mulch from The Home Depot. This chemical-free hardwood mulch insulates shallow roots against hard freezes. Organic materials gradually break down, enriching the surrounding soil.

In moderate climates (zones 7-9), a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) layer provides ideal protection. If you live in a cold northern climate (zones 3-6), double the thickness to 4-5 inches (10-12cm). Always pull mulch 2-3 inches (5-8cm) away from the main stems, creating a donut shape around the base. Stacking mulch directly invites stem rot and provides mice or voles with a sheltered spot to chew on tender bark. If your region gets truly cold in winter, double the mulch layer. You can also add some Espoma Natural Mushroom Blend, available from Walmart, which is ideal for layering beneath mulch to enrich tired fall soil.

4. Deadhead Selectively Based on Habit

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Deciding whether to snip off faded flowerheads in October depends on which type of hydrangea you grow, as well as your personal taste. Dried hydrangea blooms can fade into gorgeous antique parchment tones, offering striking textural beauty. Some hydrangea varieties bloom on new growth, some bloom on old growth.

For hydrangeas that bloom on new wood, such as smooth hydrangeas like Annabelle and panicle hydrangeas like Limelight, you can deadhead spent flower clusters in early October. This can prevent snow and ice from accumulating, which can cause brittle stems to bend or snap. Snip the stem just below the spent cluster, using pruning snips like highly rated Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon. However, don’t do this in late October, as it can make the hydrangea vulnerable to winter damage.

If you grow old-wood bloomers like bigleaf mopheads, lacecaps, or oakleaf, it is too late to deadhead. These varieties set their winter flower buds directly below the existing blooms in late summer. So deadheading in October risks cutting off next summer’s flowers. If in doubt, leave the dried blooms intact through winter: they serve as natural protective caps shielding the fragile top buds from icy winds. Come spring, you can snip off any of the old hydrangea flowers that overwinter.

5. Prune Lightly or Postpone Until Spring

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Pruning is another October task that only applies to hydrangeas that bloom on new wood. So take care, because pruning hydrangeas unnecessarily now can eliminate next season’s flower display. If you grow old-wood varieties like bigleaf or oakleaf hydrangeas, do not prune in October. To do so is to remove the buds that produce those fabulous blooms. Major structural pruning should be put on hold until early spring when shrubs are fully dormant. Limit any cuts strictly to removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches (otherwise known as the 3Ds).

If you grow new-wood types like panicles or smooth hydrangeas, you can perform light shaping once foliage drops. However, even with these tough cultivars, hard pruning is best delayed until late winter. Lightly trim crossing stems or awkward branches using bypass pruners, cutting at a 45-degree angle. If you want the best of the best, Felco 2 Classic Bypass Pruners from Amazon slice cleanly through thicker branches and come with a lifetime guarantee. Clean blades with isopropyl alcohol or diluted neem to prevent cross-contamination. If in doubt, this doesn’t have to be done now. You can put it off until late winter if you prefer.

6. Protect and Relocate Potted Hydrangeas

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There is another big distinction between key hydrangeas. Yes, some bud on old wood and some on new. But an even more basic difference is where they were planted. Hydrangeas in the ground are fairly cold hardy, and most can survive winter’s worst within their growing zones. But container-based hydrangeas are more vulnerable to freezing temperatures that can crack pottery and freeze root balls solid.

October is your chance to prepare potted hydrangeas for winterizing before severe cold snaps hit. In milder areas (zones 7-8), group pots together against a sheltered house wall or unheated porch, wrapping the pots in burlap to protect roots. In colder northern regions (zones 3-6), they should be moved into an unheated garage or shed once the plant drops its leaves and starts to enter dormancy. This is to keep roots safe from drying, icy winds. For heavier containers, use caddies to relocate your hydrangeas, such as Parsagi’s 20-Inch Metal Plant Caddies from Amazon.

Water dormant potted hydrangeas sparingly (about once a month), just enough to keep the root ball from drying out. Blending in a handful of perlite or coarse sand can help to maintain optimal drainage. Adding a little Plantonix Perlite Bliss Premium from Walmart to potting mixes help to maintain hydrangea health through winter.

Shop Hydrangea Essentials

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Now you have your October action plan, you just need a few key items to help see your shrubs through the colder months. To help your hydrangeas thrive and emerge strong in spring, make a little room in your shed for these essential container buddies, tools, and soil amendments, to keep your maintenance tasks stress-free.

Hydrangea Care Trio

Root Boost

Espoma Espoma Organic Bio-Tone Starter Plus Plant Food

This premium starter fertilizer strengthens roots without forcing tender new leaf growth. It’s a lovely organic blend for conditioning soil around newly planted or transplanted hydrangeas before the ground freezes.

Container Carrier

Bloem Bloem 14 Inch Terracotta Plant Caddy, 100 Lb

If you need a rugged, weather-resistant rolling planter base to convey heavy ceramic and terracotta pots, this carrier makes the transition smooth and takes the backbreak out of moving potted hydrangeas into winter shelter.

Garden Tidy

Fiskars Fiskars Kangaroo 10 Gallon Vinyl Collapsible Garden Bag

These bags are worth their weight in gold and can be used over and over in fall. These durable garden buddies make collecting damp leaf litter effortless, and can be stored flat in your shed or garage when cleanup is finished.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

A very strong El Niño could make this a challenging winter for gardens across parts of the US. Repeated rain, cold snaps, and sudden changes in temperature can be especially hard on plants that need sharp drainage, so these seven are worth watching before winter sets in.

Forecasters are calling for a very strong El Niño this winter. NOAA puts the odds above 90%, and its outlook points to wetter-than-normal conditions across much of the southern and central US, California, parts of the Great Plains, and the Atlantic coast. Temperatures may vary by region, with the northern US generally expected to be warmer than normal and the Southeast potentially seeing cooler spells.

Most talk about plants for extreme weather centers on heat and drought. But a cold, wet winter is its own kind of stress – especially when soil stays saturated for weeks. Roots can’t get enough oxygen, while water molds such as Phytophthora and Pythium may trigger root rot. Freezes and thaws can then heave shallow-rooted plants out of the ground.

These seven plants tend to have the hardest time when winter soil stays cold and soggy. Most of the fixes come down to drainage, mulch and timing. Nearly all of them can be done this fall.

1. Lavender

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Lavender handles cold a lot better than it handles cold and wet at the same time. Soggy, cold soil is one of the most common reasons lavender dies, since the plant is native to dry, rocky Mediterranean hillsides, where rain drains away fast.

Don't mulch lavender with wood chips or straw. Both hold moisture against the crown – a thin layer of gravel works better, like this attractive mixed pebble bag from Amazon. Stop watering once the rain sets in, and skip fall pruning so the plant isn't pushing out soft new growth right before a freeze.

Potted lavender can go under an eave or porch roof where rain won't keep soaking the pot.

2. Hens and Chicks

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Hens and chicks (Sempervivum spp.) and hardy sedums can take a lot of cold, and many of them are hardy well into the North. Wet soil is another story. The rosettes tend to rot from the base up when water sits around them for days, so a mulch of gravel or grit that keeps them up off the soil helps a lot.

Potted succulents should come out of their saucers for the winter. Setting pots on Bosmere Store's Pot Toes lifts them off the patio, so water runs out the bottom instead of pooling underneath.

3. Agave

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Many agaves can ride out a frost when their soil is dry, which is why some of them grow in desert areas that still see freezing nights. Cold and wet together is what tends to hurt them. A rainy winter can leave water sitting in the center of the rosette and in the soil around the roots, so agaves do best on a slope, a berm or a raised bed where rain drains away fast.

If a hard freeze shows up in the forecast, cover the plant – Walmart sells a DeWitt heavy-duty frost blanket that can be cut to size. Take the cover off once the freeze passes.

4. Garlic

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Fall-planted garlic spends the whole winter in the ground. A bed that stays waterlogged for weeks can rot cloves before they ever send up a shoot, and cool, wet soil also suits white rot (Sclerotium cepivorum) if it's already in your garden.

Plant garlic in a raised bed or in rows mounded a few inches above the path. Add mulch once the soil has cooled down. Home Depot carries USA long leaf pine straw in bags, and a layer 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) deep helps even out soil temperature so freeze-thaw swings are less likely to heave the cloves up.

5. Tulips

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Tulip bulbs rot easily in soil that stays wet. A long, rainy winter gives rot plenty of time to set in, and tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae) spreads more in cool, wet weather too.

Plant tulips in the best-drained spot you have, about 6–8 inches (15–20cm) deep, and don't water them after planting if the rain is already doing the job.

Beds that stay soggy are a bad bet. Containers or raised beds are safer, and hyacinths and other fall-planted bulbs need the same kind of drainage.

6. Coral Bells

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Coral bells (Heuchera spp.) have shallow roots and a crown that sits right at the soil line, and that makes them one of the plants most often pushed out of the ground by frost heaving. Each freeze and thaw lifts the crown a little higher. The roots can end up exposed to cold air and drying wind.

Spread 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of mulch around the plants after the first frost, keeping it pulled back from the crown itself, and check them after each thaw so any heaved plants can be pressed back down into the soil. Heavy, wet clay can also rot the crown. Mix in compost before planting new ones.

7. Strawberries

Strawberries can get hit from two sides in a cold, wet winter. Waterlogged soil favors root diseases like red stele (Phytophthora fragariae). Freeze-thaw cycles are the other threat – they can heave plants up and leave the roots exposed to dry out.

Raised beds help with the first problem. For the second, spread a loose layer of straw or pine straw 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) deep over the plants once they've been through a couple of light frosts, then pull it back in spring once new growth starts.

Winter Survival Essentials

Bosmere Pot Toes

Dewitt Ultimate Plant Winter Blanket

Yiszm 2lb Gravel Pebbles

Forecasts can miss. Even a strong El Niño won't bring the same winter to every yard, but gravel, mulch and better drainage don't cost much, and I'd rather have my lavender ready for a soggy winter that never shows up than lose it to one that does.

Many shade-tolerant plants focus their energy on spring or summer blooms, fading by early autumn and leaving shady corners looking dark, tired, and a little sad. However, heading into the cooler months does not mean you have to settle for dull, uninspired beds. To keep your shady borders vibrant, luminous, and full of life past the summer fade and well into fall, you just need the right mix of shade superstars, specifically those that flower late in the season or offer dramatic foliage color shifts.

When designing a fall shade garden for perennials, keep in mind that light levels vary significantly across shady spaces. You could be dealing with deep shade beneath dense tree canopies, dappled sunlight or partial afternoon shade. Matching each plant's light preferences to your specific yard conditions is the secret to achieving long-lasting fall sparkle with these key late season all-stars.

By combining texture, contrasting leaf forms, and cold-hardy blooms, your shaded spaces can become some of the most captivating features of your late-season landscape. To get you started on transforming your quiet, shadowy nooks this fall, here are some of my picks for outstanding shade-friendly perennials that deliver spectacular late-season color.

Choosing Shade-Friendly Plants

If you have a tricky, low-light space, you might think you need to focus on spring bulbs and early summer perennials, perhaps feeling you need to give up on shade beds once fall arrives. Yet these cool, sheltered areas can easily accommodate some of the shining stars of your fall display, as long as you select plants built that thrive in lower light. Choosing late-blooming shade plant species and striking foliage perennials will ensure your shade beds maintain exceptional color, depth, and lightness from late summer through to the first hard winter frost.

Preparing shade beds for fall requires a little thoughtful soil care. Tree roots, falling leaf litter, and cooler temperatures mean soil moisture levels can fluctuate. Before planting, enrich tired shade soil with organic amendments to improve texture and microbial activity. Working in some ready-made organic compost or earthworm castings can replenish nutrients depleted by summer growth. Another great soil treatment is mushroom compost. You can get lush ready-made bags of Espoma Natural Mushroom Blend Fertilizer, available from Walmart, to replenish tired beds.

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Blending in perlite or coarse sand guarantees vital drainage. Add some high grade perlite such as Plantonix Perlite Bliss Premium from Walmart to ensure sharp drainage around young perennial roots. This airy well-draining blend gives roots room to breathe and helps prevent rots during wet weather. However, while watering needs to shift in fall, don’t stop watering altogether. While shade beds take longer to dry out as temperatures drop, shallow root systems still need moisture to establish before freezing weather arrives.

Elevate potted arrangements with pot feet. It’s also a good idea to topdress garden beds with a layer of organic mulch to regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and help protect crowns from frost damage. In colder northern zones (USDA zones 3-5), focus on deep mulching. In warmer southern regions (zones 8-9), positioning shade lovers where they receive protection from intense late-afternoon sun helps blooms last longer into winter. Once you have priming the ground, you’re ready for the following shade-friendly fall foliage plants and late bloomers.

1. Japanese Anemone

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Japanese anemone (Anemone × hybrida) is an exceptional choice for filling in shady spaces just as a lot of other summer blooms are fading. Standing on tall, elegant stems, these resilient perennials produce delicate white or soft pink blooms that sway gracefully in the breeze, adding airy, luminous texture to low-light borders. Depending on the cultivar, anemones bloom reliably from late summer through fall. Buy a pretty pink Curtain Call Pink Japanese Anemone Plant by Proven Winners from Nature Hills for strength and elegance combined.

These fall superstars thrive best in partial shade in zones 4-8, making them ideal for the edges of shade beds or eastern-facing borders where they receive gentle morning sun. They demand moist, humus-rich soil that drains freely and plenty of breathing room when planting them. While they can take a season to establish, they will spread via underground runners to form sweeping drifts. Pair them alongside dark heuchera or hostas for stunning contrast, and mulch in fall to insulate roots.

2. Toad Lily

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When most traditional shade perennials are winding down for the season, toad lily steps into the spotlight with an unforgettable late-season flowering display. Blooming from late summer into mid-fall, this unique perennial produces intricate, star-shaped and speckled flowers in shades of purple, pink, and white. These resemble exotic miniature orchids perched along arching, leafy stems. You can buy Emerald Goddess Garden Store Toad Lily Live Plants from Amazon if you hurry.

Toad lilies (Tricyrtis hirta) are ideal for the front edges of shady pathways, raised beds, shade bed edges, or patio borders where their detailed, intricate blooms can be admired close-up. They prefer partial to light dappled shade in zones 4-8, as a touch of soft morning sunlight encourages maximum flower production. Consistent soil moisture is a must for toad lilies. Plant them in rich, loamy soil amended with leaf mold or compost to retain moisture while ensuring good drainage. Keep them sheltered from harsh winds, and don't let fallen leaves bury their basal rosettes.

3. Bugbane

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For gardeners seeking dramatic height and native charm, bugbane (also known as black cohosh or baneberry) delivers a striking vertical element for fall shade gardens. Reaching heights of 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8m), this fine perennial sends up fragrant, bottle-brush wands of tiny white or pale lavender flowers from late summer into autumn, often towering above deep purple or bronze-cast foliage. Try Pink Spike Bugbane from Plant Addicts, for pale pink flowering wands and rich purple foliage.

Unlike many flowering perennials, bugbane (Actaea racemosa syn. Cimicifuga racemosa) can thrive in full shade as well as partial shade in zones 3-8, making it invaluable as a background anchor behind shorter shade plants like hostas or ferns. It prefers deep, rich, moisture-retentive soil in a spot protected from sweeping gusts. Give plants ample room to expand, spacing at least 2-3 feet (60-90cm) apart. Don't let the soil dry out during dry spells, as drought stress causes lower foliage to drop.

4. Blue Leadwood (Plumbago)

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Blue leadwood (commonly called plumbago) delivers late-season flowers and intense foliage tones in one compact, low-growing package. Growing just 8-12 inches (20-30cm) tall, this spreading groundcover (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) produces electric blue flowers from midsummer to the first freeze. As temperatures drop, its leaves shift to bronze, burgundy, and crimson. Buy Blue Plumbago Plants from Nature Hills at a bargain price for gleaming blooms in the shade.

This versatile performer excels in partial shade in zones 5-9, particularly in spots receiving morning sun and dappled afternoon shade. It is ideal for edging beds, cascading over stone retaining walls, or planting beneath high-canopy shrubs and trees. Plumbago tolerates drought once fully established, but soggy winter soil will lead to root loss. Plant in well-draining soil, and pair with white Japanese anemones for an arresting contrast. Don't panic if it emerges late: this is a slow starter that often saves its best energy for a dazzling late-fall finale.

5. Heuchera (Coral Bells)

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While coral bells (Heuchera spp.) flower during spring and early summer, their foliage steals the show during fall and winter. Available in an array of leaf colors, from warm caramel, copper, and fiery orange to chocolate-brown, lime-gold, and purple-black, heuchera bring continuous, non-fading sparkle to shady borders. You can buy Daylily Nursery's rich purple Berry Smoothie Heuchera Plants from Walmart as 3-inch (8cm) plugs that add instant lush plummy color.

Coral bells thrive in partial shade in zones 4-9, forming compact clumps 12-18 inches (30-45cm) wide that make ideal border edgings or container fillers. Weave different varieties together, or pair plum-leaved cultivars alongside Japanese forest grass. Good drainage is a must, so amend heavy clay soils with perlite, fine gravel, or organic compost. In northern zones, frost-heaving can lift crowns above soil level. Topdress with a layer of organic mulch in late fall, but don't bury the central crown.

6. Japanese Forest Grass

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Adding varying texture is essential for bringing energy to low-light spaces. Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) brings unrivaled fluid movement to shade beds. Unlike most sun-loving ornamental grasses, this elegant perennial thrives in shade, forming cascading mounds of slender ribbon foliage. Buy Plants That Work All Gold Japanese Forest Grass from Nature Hills for natural flowing luminescence.

Color cultivars offer great seasonal versatility. Golden varieties like Aureola brighten dark corners in summer, while autumn-shifting cultivars like Nicolas turn copper, orange, and golden-red as night temperatures cool. Plant along shady pathways, raised beds, or container edges where its weeping stems can spill freely. This perennial prefers rich, moist, well-draining soil in dappled or partial shade in zones 5-9, as harsh afternoon sun will scorch leaf tips. Don't cut back foliage in fall: leave the dried, copper leaves intact to provide graceful winter structure.

7. Variegated Solomon’s Seal

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Variegated Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum var. pluriflorum 'Variegatum') is a tough, graceful perennial that thrives in dry, deep shade where other plants struggle. While its sweet, bell-shaped flowers appear in spring, it’s the foliage that brightens shady beds through fall. Arching stems lined with soft green leaves edged in crisp white turn a luminous butter-yellow in autumn. Buy Direct Gardening’s Solomon’s Seal Plants from Walmart for gleaming goodness in the shade.

Growing 2-3 feet (60-90cm) tall, Solomon’s seal slowly spreads via rhizomes to form sweeping colonies under mature shade trees or along woodland slopes, where other plants struggle. It tolerates deep shade to partial shade, making it a reliable choice for north-facing building walls or dense tree canopies in zones 3-8. Soil should be rich, moist, and loamy, though established plants can tolerate dry shade and occasional dampness. Combine it with low groundcovers like blue leadwood or dark heuchera, for multi-layered height and color contrast.

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