Organic Gardening News

It’s easy to think cold weather is what kills off your lavender. Soggy roots and soft late growth in cold winds tend to cause the real trouble, and a few changes in early fall can get you ahead of both.

Lavender is native to dry, stony hillsides around the Mediterranean, and a long, wet winter in a garden bed is not even close to those conditions. Winterizing lavender plants doesn’t take a whole lot of effort, though. Most of your work will take place in late summer and early fall, well before the first real freeze shows up.

The year-round lavender care already covers the biggest factor. That is, soil that drains fast in a spot with full sun. Heavy clay or low, soggy ground starts winter at a disadvantage. Beyond that, fall prep mostly comes down to doing things a bit earlier and doing less with them.

Start with a Green Sweep

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The first thing to do is a "green sweep" pruning. This is a light trim that stays inside the leafy part of the plant. Gather a loose handful of stems and cut away about one-third of their length. Leave an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of this year’s green growth above where the wood starts. Lavender rarely produces new shoots from bare wood, so stems cut into the woody base may not regrow. What you trim off is fragrant and can be tied in bundles and dried.

Always use clean, sharp blades. They cut more smoothly and reduce damage to the remaining stems. Hand pruners are plenty for one or two plants, but remember that a rounded plant shape sheds snow better than a flat top. For a long row, hedge shears like Fiskars' Power-Lever Garden Hedge Shears save time and come in different sizes on Amazon.

Four to six weeks before the first hard freeze is the usual window, but a later trim can produce soft growth that has no time to harden off. Many gardeners limit fall work in the coldest regions to deadheading and leave shaping until spring. Spanish and French lavender are less cold-hardy and are usually only deadheaded in fall.

Stop Fertilizing by Late Summer

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Lavender fertilizer applied in September often produces dead stem tips by spring. Late nitrogen encourages new growth when the plant should be slowing down, and that growth is usually the first to show cold damage. Lavender does fine in soil of low to moderate fertility.

Early August is the practical cutoff in most regions for liquid feeds and slow-release granules, which can reach the root zone when spread around nearby perennials. Don’t feed until new growth appears at the base in spring. Established plants in reasonable soil rarely need more than a light application even then. A light compost mulch in spring is enough for the season.

Taper Off the Watering

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Lavender in winter is more often killed by wet soil than by low temperatures, especially in regions with rainy winters. Water less often and let the soil dry a few inches (5–8 cm) down as the days shorten. Rainfall can be enough for established plants in the ground. Bark and wood chip mulch should be pulled back from the crown, and pea gravel, like this one from The Mighty 109 Store via Amazon, is better if the base needs covering.

That doesn’t mean to stop watering altogether. Plants under drought stress tend to handle cold less well, so a final deep soak before a cold snap is worthwhile if you haven’t gotten rain in a while.

Container lavender plants dry out faster and can freeze through, so push a finger an inch (2.5 cm) into the mix to check them, and water if it comes out dry. Pots raised on feet, like Bosmere Pot Toes, drain faster than pots set flat on a hard surface. On the coldest nights, moving pots against a house wall or under a covered porch helps.

Protect Plants from Winter Wind

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Wind is a significant cause of winter damage. Lavender keeps its gray-green foliage all season. On cold, windy days, those leaves lose moisture, and roots in frozen ground can’t replace it. Exposed plants usually brown on the windward side first. Reduce some of that exposure by siting it next to a wall or fence.

A screen is one of the most practical ways to winterize lavender plants in an open yard. Drive several fir wood garden stakes, like these from Walmart, into the ground on the windward side, then stretch a natural jute burlap roll across them. Home Depot sells a 63-inch (160 cm) roll with enough length for a full row. Keep the fabric several inches (8–10 cm) away from the foliage so air can move through. You don’t need to envelop the whole plant. Just use it as a windbreak.

In the coldest zones, a breathable cover placed over plants after the first hard frost adds extra protection. Remove it once spring warms up, though.

Lavender Winterizing Essentials

Valibe Blanket Plant Covers for Freeze Protection

Bosmere Pot Toes Pack of 12

Mighty 109 Grey Pea Gravel 40 lbs

Plants can often look gray and untidy in early spring, but browning in March doesn’t always mean the plant is dead. Knowing how to overwinter lavender includes waiting for visible signs of recovery. Once new green growth appears near the base, cut away any stems that snap rather than bend.

Some flower seeds do far better when sown in fall, so you can simply scatter them onto bare soil now and – hey presto! – they’ll transform into abundant blooms by next year. This is one of nature’s finest magic tricks and you really should take advantage, because there is no easier or cheaper way to fill your yard with blooms than these flower seeds to sow in fall.

All these plants are self-seeders so they don’t need any molly-coddling from you. Sow them in October and all the work is naturally done for you. Some of the seeds require a period of cold – called cold stratification – to germinate; for others, the freeze-thaw cycle cracks tough outer shells. Triggered by warming weather and lengthening days in spring, they’ll sprout at the perfect point, and rain will keep the seedlings watered. Some are even tough enough to sprout in fall and survive winter unscathed.

These seeds all like a little light to germinate, too, so you don’t even have to rake them into the ground. And the reward for your minimal efforts? Bigger, stronger plants than if you’d sown the exact same seeds in spring, for lots more flowers. So, if you're wondering what to sow in October and fancy a garden that almost takes care of itself, start right here. If you’ve already got any of these beauties in your garden, now’s the time to snap off a seedhead and shake it wherever you fancy having more growing, too.

1. Annual Poppies

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Annual corn poppies (Papaver rhoeas) and opium or breadseed poppies (Papaver somniferum) both thrive with a fall sowing and are some of the prettiest plants that practically grow by themselves. They need a period of cold to germinate so you can pop the seed into the fridge for a few weeks – or do it the easy way and let winter work its magic! Scatter the tiny seeds in full sun after the first hard frost in zones 6-9, and you’re done.

Eden Brothers stocks a super selection: Papaver somniferum ‘Lauren’s Grape’ packs a punch with prolific plum-toned flowers, while Papaver rhoeas ‘Amazing Grey’ has crinkly petals in lilac and grey shades, and is much coveted as a cut flower. Or for a lovely addition of color running through a border, ‘Angels Choir Poppy Mix’ is a wonderful mish-mash of warm-hued varieties.

2. Love-in-a-Mist

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Nigella hates having its roots disturbed so is always best direct-sown where you want it to grow, and a fall sowing brings stronger, taller plants that bloom weeks ahead of seeds cast in spring. In zones 7-9, go ahead and scatter seed now as seedlings will endure temperatures down to 23°F (-5°C), or wait till winter is here in zone 6 to ensure spring germination.

For a fall sowing, steer clear of common Nigella damascena unless you have fast-draining soil as the seedlings won’t tolerate sitting in cold wet ground. Instead, choose Nigella papillosa, which is far more robust. Love-in-a-mist ‘Delft Blue’, available from Botanical Interests, has rich violet-blue hues on white petals, reminiscent of the famous blue-and-white pottery it’s named after. Love-in-a-mist ‘African Bride’, also available from Botanical Interests and a similarly tough cookie perfect for fall sowing, is just as beautiful and produces incredible lantern-like seedpods once flowers have faded.

3. Bachelor’s Button

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Cornflowers are one of the easiest of all flowers to sow from a fall scattering in zones 8-10, yet you can pay an absolute fortune for the dried petals to use as herbal tea or confetti. Centaurea cyanus do prefer a little darkness to germinate well, so it’s best to quickly rake over the soil to cover them lightly.

Plain ol’ blue cornflowers, available from Amazon, are beautiful in their own right but if you like to bring flowers inside for vases, then try a tall blend of mixed color bachelor’s buttons, available from Botanical Interests. If sultry colors are more of a border fit for your garden, then ‘Black Magic’ cornflowers, also available from Botanical Interests is a tried and tested favorite.

4. Sweet Alyssum

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Steal a trick from cottage-gardeners and scatter Lobularia maritima seeds in fall in zones 7-11, and a fragrant low carpet of flowers will magically appear in spring. They're such easy flowers to grow from seed and are one of the best flowering groundcover plants, so it's a wonder this quick fall task isn't standard practice in all gardens! Sweet alyssum seeds need light to germinate and young plants cope with repeated light frosts, overwintering as small rosettes, ready to bloom weeks ahead of spring-sown seeds. The sweet honey-like perfume of the flowers is a delightful addition to those first warm days of the year.

‘Royal Carpet’ sweet alyssum, available from Walmart, brings a tapestry of white, lilac and purple flowers, while ‘Sweet White’ sweet alyssum, available from Lowe’s, does exactly what it says on the tin.

5. Purple Coneflower

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Echinacea purpurea are perennials that need a cold period to germinate, so grow well from a fall sowing in zones 3-9. Although purple coneflower seeds benefit from light to sprout, it’s customary to cover them with a light dusting of soil simply to deter birds from snaffling up what is one of their favorite snacks. The other alternative, of course, is just to fling plenty of seeds into your border, and seeds of this native wildflower are cheap to buy, such as this bumper pack of purple coneflower seeds from Amazon.

Wait till after the first frost before sowing in zones 3-4, to guard against premature germination in any unseasonably warm fall weather. In zones 8-9, choose a spot with excellent drainage – a raised bed is ideal – to avoid seeds rotting over winter.

6. California Poppy

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Such is their will to live, you can simply toss the tiny seeds of Eschscholzia californica onto bare earth in zones 8-10 in fall and the seedlings will survive to bloom early next year. Choose a sunny spot to surface-sow your California poppy seeds and let fall rain do the rest.

Take a look at Eden Brothers’ California poppy range for inspiration. As well as the classic orange of California’s state flower, there are all sorts of varieties such as Thai Silk Pink Champagne California poppy and Appleblossom Chiffon California poppy with petals as fabulous as their names suggest.

7. Bells of Ireland

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As they need both light and a period of cold to germinate, you can steal a head start on growing Bells of Ireland (Moluccella laevis) in zones 6-9 with a fall sowing. Their tough seeds will sit dormant through the winter cold, then germinate as soon as it’s warm enough in spring. In zones 8 and warmer, go ahead and sow now; in colder zones though, wait till right after your first frost before sowing, so seeds don’t sprout prematurely.

These stately spires of flowers are a must for any garden, growing to a neat 2-3 feet tall and adding unusual texture as well as a fresh pop of green. The flowers last well in a vase so these are a fabulous addition to bouquets, if you like to grow cut flowers from seed for blooms all summer long. For a reliable fall sowing, bells of Ireland seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

8. Columbine

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Aquilegia benefit from winter stratification and they need light to germinate, making them one of the best flower seeds to sow in fall in zones 3-9. These direct-sow seeds also appreciate starting life out where they will grow. You’ll need to be a little patient, however, as columbine is a perennial that spends its first year concentrating on roots and pretty foliage, but boy, is the yearly spring show of flowers after that worth the wait. Fling and forget columbine seeds this October and be surprised by the flurry of cottage-garden blooms in their second year.

There’s a huge range of columbines to choose from, from the dainty blue Aquilegia caerulea, available from Amazon, to the mighty Aquilegia cultorum columbines, stocked by Botanical Interests, bred for their large flowers and color variety. In zones 8-9 with mild winters, toss the seed packet in your fridge for a couple of weeks before sowing, to make sure they get the cold they need to sprout.

Tips for a Successful Fall Sowing

All these seeds naturally self-seed so all you need do is mimic nature and plants will grow well from a fall sowing with minimum intervention. A few simple prep steps, however, will help to ensure good germination.

• If you can, rake the soil before sowing to break up any clumps and form a fine ‘tilth’. This ensures seeds have good contact with the soil and makes it easy for young roots to penetrate the ground.
• Water the soil before sowing if it hasn’t rained recently. Sowing onto moist soil means there’s no need to water straight after sowing, which can wash small seeds away.
• Read the sowing instructions on the seed packet carefully to see exactly how much light the seeds need to germinate. All these seeds will germinate from a surface sowing but some will benefit from being lightly raked into the soil.
• Some seed is so tiny that it’s very hard to see where you’ve sown. Mix seed with fine sand first, so you can see where it's landed so spread it more evenly.

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There's no easier or cheaper way to fill borders with blooms than to scatter these seeds in fall, then look forward to flowers popping up here, there and everywhere. Once you've got these self-reliant beauties growing in your yard, you can easily collect seeds to distribute around your garden for yet more blooms, too.

Add in flower seeds to fling and forget in spring and you have yourself a garden full of flowers that practically grow themselves.

Everybody who likes weeding, stand up! Of course, not a soul rises to their feet. Pulling out weeds is one of our least favorite garden tasks in spring. That’s why I have compiled my best tricks and tips to stop those weeds from appearing.

Fall is the optimal moment to take action for weed control. That’s because those nasty perennial weeds use fall as feeding season, taking up nutrients from the soil and moving carbohydrates produced by photosynthesis to the roots for winter storage. Any herbicides applied in fall travel with the carbohydrates to the roots, killing the entire plant.

The key to getting weed control measures in place in autumn is finding simple tasks that are super effective. That way you aren’t likely to avoid them. But we promise, every one of these steps that you take will make a real dent in the number of weeds that you see in spring.

1. Stop Weeds From Spreading by Deadheading Them

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Generally, gardeners use the term deadheading to mean removing spent flowers from your desirable, cultivated plants. The idea is to prevent the plants from investing energy in seeds and propagation instead of new flower buds. This type of fall deadheading does not reduce weeds.

On the other hand, deadheading invasive weeds can prevent them from spreading. Take a look around your garden. If you see that weeds in the garden have gone to seed, snip off those seed heads in autumn. That way, the seeds cannot scatter in the wind.

Use clean, sharp bypass pruners, such as the ever-popular Felco F2 Classic Hand Pruners available on Amazon, to cut off the flower heads before they fully mature, then collect and dispose of them in the trash rather than adding them to your compost pile if they contain viable seed.

2. Treat Perennial Weeds in Early Fall

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Chemicals should always be a last resort in the garden. But if you decide they're necessary, early fall is often the best time to treat established perennial weeds with a post-emergence weed killer. At this time of year, only the above-ground foliage dies back. As the plant moves sugars and stored energy into its roots to survive the winter, systemic herbicides can also move into the root system, making treatments more effective and potentially reducing the number of applications needed.

Apply a weed killer before persistent perennial weeds such as dandelions, creeping Charlie, Canada thistle, or broadleaf plantain take over. These weeds return year after year from the same root system, so simply removing the foliage rarely gets rid of them for good.

If you prefer to avoid glyphosate, consider a product such as Bonide Captain Jack's Deadweed Brew, available from Amazon. Approved for organic gardening, it's a fast-acting, non-selective weed killer that's suitable for use around flower and vegetable gardens. Because it's a contact herbicide rather than a systemic one, established perennial weeds may require repeat applications to exhaust the roots. Always read and follow the label directions carefully.

3. Pull Young Annual Weeds Before They Take Hold

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Some gardeners prefer to avoid chemical weed killers altogether, and if you're one of them, you can still get ahead of annual weeds such as henbit, deadnettle, and common chickweed. Winter annuals germinate from seed in the fall and spend the winter as small seedlings. Watch for them to emerge in October, then pull them out, roots and all.

Plants are always easiest to remove when they're young. You can lightly rake seedlings out, but hand pulling is often just as quick. A hand weeding tool, such as the CobraHead Original Weeder & Cultivator, makes it easier to loosen the soil around the roots so you can lift the entire plant without it snapping off. Take care not to disturb the soil surface too much, as that can bring buried weed seeds to the surface, where they're more likely to germinate.

4. Plant Cover Crops

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Cover crops occupy territory that weeds would have liked to take over. They are very efficient at suppressing weeds by creating a dense canopy that keeps weed seeds in the dark. Fall cover crops like cereal rye and oats compete for sunlight, moisture, and nutrients, leaving little to support winter annual weeds from germinating.

Other top fall cover crops for weed suppression include crimson clover, which forms a thick carpet of foliage; hairy vetch, a winter-hardy annual legume that blankets the soil; and forage radish, which quickly shades the soil. If you're sowing a new cover crop this fall, Eden Brothers also stocks crimson clover, as well as an organic cover crop seed mix.

5. Mulch Bare Soil

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Organic mulch like homemade compost or chopped, fallen leaves helps the garden in so many ways. The mulch layer holds in moisture and helps regulate the soil temperature. But that's not all.

When you cover bare soil with a 2–3 inch (5–7.5 cm) layer of mulch, it blocks sunlight, making it much harder for dormant weed seeds to germinate. If you don't have enough leaves or homemade compost, a natural wood mulch, such as Hyponex by Scotts Brown Mulch from Walmart, is an easy way to cover exposed soil before winter.

6. Do a Thorough Fall Garden Cleanup

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A general fall clean-up is a garden tradition, and this habit can help you prevent weeds. Take out all debris from your garden beds as well as your vegetable gardens. It’s a good time to notice which weeds you are dealing with in your landscape. That will help you plan your weed attack.

For example, if crabgrass is everywhere in fall, you might plan to use a pre-emergence herbicide again in the spring. This will take out the crabgrass seed before it germinates in your garden.

Fall Weeding Essentials

Bonide Captain Jack's Deadweed Brew

Cobrahead Original Weeder & Cultivator

Grampa's Weeder Original Stand Up Weed Puller Tool

What NOT to Do in Fall

Do not work the soil in autumn. Tilling the soil is what you do when you want to encourage seeds to grow. You don’t want weed seeds to grow in fall, so just don’t turn or till the soil, certainly not deeply. Add the mulch, then leave the soil alone.

As October arrives and fall weather settles in, your focus may naturally shift towards fall cleanup and preparing the yard for winter. While spring clean-up may get more attention, October tasks are just as vital for maintaining healthy, robust shrubs. This is especially true for garden workhorses like hydrangeas. The care they receive during these crisp, shifting fall weeks can directly determine performance next year.

Hydrangea care in October is a happy mix of strategic actions, requiring as many "don’ts" as "do’s" for safeguarding plant health. Knowing what yours needs before the cold weather settles in will help shield vulnerable roots and protect stems from frost damage. Thankfully, completing these essential fall maintenance steps takes very little time, while paying massive dividends when the warmer weather returns.

Taking time to care for your hydrangeas now ensures they emerge from winter dormancy in peak condition. Whether you grow bigleaf mopheads, lacecaps, cold-hardy panicles, or dramatic oakleaf hydrangeas, these easycare steps can protect your shrubs, safeguard dormant buds, and guarantee a breathtaking, bloom-filled display next summer.

Helping Hydrangeas in October

Preparing hydrangeas for winter now requires a clear understanding of how soil, moisture, and light conditions change as daylight shortens. While fall rain can often reduce the need for daily watering, you still need to make sure that your shrubs enter winter with adequately moist soil. Cold, icy winds can dehydrate plant tissue, and well-hydrated roots withstand freeze-thaw cycles far better than they do when dry. So continue watering deeply during dry spells until the ground freezes.

What you do in October will depend on which type of hydrangea you are growing. Panicle (H. paniculata) and smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas bloom on new wood produced in spring, making them very cold-hardy and forgiving. Conversely, bigleaf (H. macrophylla), mountain (H. serrata), and oakleaf (H. quercifolia) types set their flower buds on old wood in late summer. For these old-wood bloomers, it’s important to protect overwintering stems and terminal buds from harsh frosts.

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Regional climate variations will also have some bearing. In northern regions (USDA zones 3-5), it’s important to prioritize root insulation and wind protection before hard freezes set in. Sprinkling a handful of Espoma Organic Bio-Tone Starter Plus, available from Walmart, around the base of your hydrangeas can strengthen roots ahead of winter. In the south (zones 7-9), it’s best to focus on gentle soil conditioning and light debris removal Here’s what you need to do this month to get your hydrangea ready for even bigger blooming displays next year…

1. Halt All Fertilizer Applications

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Start your October hydrangea checklist with the easiest task of all: a complete hold on fertilizing. If you have been applying monthly fertilizer to boost foliage and flower size, now is the time to stop. Simply resist the urge to feed your hydrangeas as the weather cools. This pause is vital for health. The purpose of feeding is to encourage new shoots and foliage. But any tender new branches produced now will die in the winter weather, leaving the plant vulnerable to stem dieback and fungal infections.

This rule applies to all hydrangea types, whether old-wood mopheads or new-wood panicles. Ceasing fertilizer allows the shrub to shift its energy into natural dormancy, hardening its bark and storing carbohydrate reserves in its root system. Instead of feeding foliage now, top-dress the soil with a clean organic amendment like kelp meal to quietly support root health without forcing unwanted top growth. Down to Earth Organic Kelp Meal, available from Amazon, gives soil health a natural boost. This potassium-rich seaweed meal improves cold hardiness.

2. Rake Up and Clear Fallen Debris

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Falling tree leaves blanket garden beds, while hydrangeas begin dropping their own yellowing foliage. A scattered layer may seem harmless, but thick mats of soggy plant debris beneath your hydrangeas can create disease and pest issues. Common fungal diseases like leaf spot, powdery mildew, and botrytis blight produce spores that survive in damp, decaying leaf litter. When spring rains arrive, these spores splash back up onto emerging shoots, re-infecting the shrub before it finishes leafing out. Clearing fallen leaf litter is a key defense against overwintering pathogens.

Oakleaf and bigleaf hydrangeas are especially susceptible to leaf spot. Use a light hand rake or leaf claw to clear away spent foliage. The excellent compact Gardena Combisystem Hand Rake from Amazon is perfect for clearing debris around delicate shrub bases without damaging stems. Place diseased leaves straight into popup garden waste bags rather than your home compost heap. Collapsible options like the Fiskars Kangaroo 10-Gallon Collapsible Vinyl Garden Bags from Walmart are really durable and make gathering and transporting soggy leaves effortless.

3. Apply a Protective Layer of Organic Mulch

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Applying a fresh blanket of organic mulch is one of the most effective ways to shield hydrangeas from winter weather. Mulching keeps soil cool on hot days in fall and warm on cooler days in winter. It also holds moisture into the soil and stops weeds appearing. Choose high-quality organic mulches, such as shredded hardwood, bark chips, pine straw, or well-rotted leaf mold. You can buy Back to the Roots Organic Premium Bark Mulch from The Home Depot. This chemical-free hardwood mulch insulates shallow roots against hard freezes. Organic materials gradually break down, enriching the surrounding soil.

In moderate climates (zones 7-9), a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) layer provides ideal protection. If you live in a cold northern climate (zones 3-6), double the thickness to 4-5 inches (10-12cm). Always pull mulch 2-3 inches (5-8cm) away from the main stems, creating a donut shape around the base. Stacking mulch directly invites stem rot and provides mice or voles with a sheltered spot to chew on tender bark. If your region gets truly cold in winter, double the mulch layer. You can also add some Espoma Natural Mushroom Blend, available from Walmart, which is ideal for layering beneath mulch to enrich tired fall soil.

4. Deadhead Selectively Based on Habit

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Deciding whether to snip off faded flowerheads in October depends on which type of hydrangea you grow, as well as your personal taste. Dried hydrangea blooms can fade into gorgeous antique parchment tones, offering striking textural beauty. Some hydrangea varieties bloom on new growth, some bloom on old growth.

For hydrangeas that bloom on new wood, such as smooth hydrangeas like Annabelle and panicle hydrangeas like Limelight, you can deadhead spent flower clusters in early October. This can prevent snow and ice from accumulating, which can cause brittle stems to bend or snap. Snip the stem just below the spent cluster, using pruning snips like highly rated Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon. However, don’t do this in late October, as it can make the hydrangea vulnerable to winter damage.

If you grow old-wood bloomers like bigleaf mopheads, lacecaps, or oakleaf, it is too late to deadhead. These varieties set their winter flower buds directly below the existing blooms in late summer. So deadheading in October risks cutting off next summer’s flowers. If in doubt, leave the dried blooms intact through winter: they serve as natural protective caps shielding the fragile top buds from icy winds. Come spring, you can snip off any of the old hydrangea flowers that overwinter.

5. Prune Lightly or Postpone Until Spring

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Pruning is another October task that only applies to hydrangeas that bloom on new wood. So take care, because pruning hydrangeas unnecessarily now can eliminate next season’s flower display. If you grow old-wood varieties like bigleaf or oakleaf hydrangeas, do not prune in October. To do so is to remove the buds that produce those fabulous blooms. Major structural pruning should be put on hold until early spring when shrubs are fully dormant. Limit any cuts strictly to removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches (otherwise known as the 3Ds).

If you grow new-wood types like panicles or smooth hydrangeas, you can perform light shaping once foliage drops. However, even with these tough cultivars, hard pruning is best delayed until late winter. Lightly trim crossing stems or awkward branches using bypass pruners, cutting at a 45-degree angle. If you want the best of the best, Felco 2 Classic Bypass Pruners from Amazon slice cleanly through thicker branches and come with a lifetime guarantee. Clean blades with isopropyl alcohol or diluted neem to prevent cross-contamination. If in doubt, this doesn’t have to be done now. You can put it off until late winter if you prefer.

6. Protect and Relocate Potted Hydrangeas

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There is another big distinction between key hydrangeas. Yes, some bud on old wood and some on new. But an even more basic difference is where they were planted. Hydrangeas in the ground are fairly cold hardy, and most can survive winter’s worst within their growing zones. But container-based hydrangeas are more vulnerable to freezing temperatures that can crack pottery and freeze root balls solid.

October is your chance to prepare potted hydrangeas for winterizing before severe cold snaps hit. In milder areas (zones 7-8), group pots together against a sheltered house wall or unheated porch, wrapping the pots in burlap to protect roots. In colder northern regions (zones 3-6), they should be moved into an unheated garage or shed once the plant drops its leaves and starts to enter dormancy. This is to keep roots safe from drying, icy winds. For heavier containers, use caddies to relocate your hydrangeas, such as Parsagi’s 20-Inch Metal Plant Caddies from Amazon.

Water dormant potted hydrangeas sparingly (about once a month), just enough to keep the root ball from drying out. Blending in a handful of perlite or coarse sand can help to maintain optimal drainage. Adding a little Plantonix Perlite Bliss Premium from Walmart to potting mixes help to maintain hydrangea health through winter.

Shop Hydrangea Essentials

(Image credit: Catherine McQueen / Getty Images)

Now you have your October action plan, you just need a few key items to help see your shrubs through the colder months. To help your hydrangeas thrive and emerge strong in spring, make a little room in your shed for these essential container buddies, tools, and soil amendments, to keep your maintenance tasks stress-free.

Hydrangea Care Trio

Root Boost

Espoma Espoma Organic Bio-Tone Starter Plus Plant Food

This premium starter fertilizer strengthens roots without forcing tender new leaf growth. It’s a lovely organic blend for conditioning soil around newly planted or transplanted hydrangeas before the ground freezes.

Container Carrier

Bloem Bloem 14 Inch Terracotta Plant Caddy, 100 Lb

If you need a rugged, weather-resistant rolling planter base to convey heavy ceramic and terracotta pots, this carrier makes the transition smooth and takes the backbreak out of moving potted hydrangeas into winter shelter.

Garden Tidy

Fiskars Fiskars Kangaroo 10 Gallon Vinyl Collapsible Garden Bag

These bags are worth their weight in gold and can be used over and over in fall. These durable garden buddies make collecting damp leaf litter effortless, and can be stored flat in your shed or garage when cleanup is finished.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

A very strong El Niño could make this a challenging winter for gardens across parts of the US. Repeated rain, cold snaps, and sudden changes in temperature can be especially hard on plants that need sharp drainage, so these seven are worth watching before winter sets in.

Forecasters are calling for a very strong El Niño this winter. NOAA puts the odds above 90%, and its outlook points to wetter-than-normal conditions across much of the southern and central US, California, parts of the Great Plains, and the Atlantic coast. Temperatures may vary by region, with the northern US generally expected to be warmer than normal and the Southeast potentially seeing cooler spells.

Most talk about plants for extreme weather centers on heat and drought. But a cold, wet winter is its own kind of stress – especially when soil stays saturated for weeks. Roots can’t get enough oxygen, while water molds such as Phytophthora and Pythium may trigger root rot. Freezes and thaws can then heave shallow-rooted plants out of the ground.

These seven plants tend to have the hardest time when winter soil stays cold and soggy. Most of the fixes come down to drainage, mulch and timing. Nearly all of them can be done this fall.

1. Lavender

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Lavender handles cold a lot better than it handles cold and wet at the same time. Soggy, cold soil is one of the most common reasons lavender dies, since the plant is native to dry, rocky Mediterranean hillsides, where rain drains away fast.

Don't mulch lavender with wood chips or straw. Both hold moisture against the crown – a thin layer of gravel works better, like this attractive mixed pebble bag from Amazon. Stop watering once the rain sets in, and skip fall pruning so the plant isn't pushing out soft new growth right before a freeze.

Potted lavender can go under an eave or porch roof where rain won't keep soaking the pot.

2. Hens and Chicks

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Hens and chicks (Sempervivum spp.) and hardy sedums can take a lot of cold, and many of them are hardy well into the North. Wet soil is another story. The rosettes tend to rot from the base up when water sits around them for days, so a mulch of gravel or grit that keeps them up off the soil helps a lot.

Potted succulents should come out of their saucers for the winter. Setting pots on Bosmere Store's Pot Toes lifts them off the patio, so water runs out the bottom instead of pooling underneath.

3. Agave

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Many agaves can ride out a frost when their soil is dry, which is why some of them grow in desert areas that still see freezing nights. Cold and wet together is what tends to hurt them. A rainy winter can leave water sitting in the center of the rosette and in the soil around the roots, so agaves do best on a slope, a berm or a raised bed where rain drains away fast.

If a hard freeze shows up in the forecast, cover the plant – Walmart sells a DeWitt heavy-duty frost blanket that can be cut to size. Take the cover off once the freeze passes.

4. Garlic

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Fall-planted garlic spends the whole winter in the ground. A bed that stays waterlogged for weeks can rot cloves before they ever send up a shoot, and cool, wet soil also suits white rot (Sclerotium cepivorum) if it's already in your garden.

Plant garlic in a raised bed or in rows mounded a few inches above the path. Add mulch once the soil has cooled down. Home Depot carries USA long leaf pine straw in bags, and a layer 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) deep helps even out soil temperature so freeze-thaw swings are less likely to heave the cloves up.

5. Tulips

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Tulip bulbs rot easily in soil that stays wet. A long, rainy winter gives rot plenty of time to set in, and tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae) spreads more in cool, wet weather too.

Plant tulips in the best-drained spot you have, about 6–8 inches (15–20cm) deep, and don't water them after planting if the rain is already doing the job.

Beds that stay soggy are a bad bet. Containers or raised beds are safer, and hyacinths and other fall-planted bulbs need the same kind of drainage.

6. Coral Bells

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Coral bells (Heuchera spp.) have shallow roots and a crown that sits right at the soil line, and that makes them one of the plants most often pushed out of the ground by frost heaving. Each freeze and thaw lifts the crown a little higher. The roots can end up exposed to cold air and drying wind.

Spread 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of mulch around the plants after the first frost, keeping it pulled back from the crown itself, and check them after each thaw so any heaved plants can be pressed back down into the soil. Heavy, wet clay can also rot the crown. Mix in compost before planting new ones.

7. Strawberries

Strawberries can get hit from two sides in a cold, wet winter. Waterlogged soil favors root diseases like red stele (Phytophthora fragariae). Freeze-thaw cycles are the other threat – they can heave plants up and leave the roots exposed to dry out.

Raised beds help with the first problem. For the second, spread a loose layer of straw or pine straw 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) deep over the plants once they've been through a couple of light frosts, then pull it back in spring once new growth starts.

Winter Survival Essentials

Bosmere Pot Toes

Dewitt Ultimate Plant Winter Blanket

Yiszm 2lb Gravel Pebbles

Forecasts can miss. Even a strong El Niño won't bring the same winter to every yard, but gravel, mulch and better drainage don't cost much, and I'd rather have my lavender ready for a soggy winter that never shows up than lose it to one that does.

Many shade-tolerant plants focus their energy on spring or summer blooms, fading by early autumn and leaving shady corners looking dark, tired, and a little sad. However, heading into the cooler months does not mean you have to settle for dull, uninspired beds. To keep your shady borders vibrant, luminous, and full of life past the summer fade and well into fall, you just need the right mix of shade superstars, specifically those that flower late in the season or offer dramatic foliage color shifts.

When designing a fall shade garden for perennials, keep in mind that light levels vary significantly across shady spaces. You could be dealing with deep shade beneath dense tree canopies, dappled sunlight or partial afternoon shade. Matching each plant's light preferences to your specific yard conditions is the secret to achieving long-lasting fall sparkle with these key late season all-stars.

By combining texture, contrasting leaf forms, and cold-hardy blooms, your shaded spaces can become some of the most captivating features of your late-season landscape. To get you started on transforming your quiet, shadowy nooks this fall, here are some of my picks for outstanding shade-friendly perennials that deliver spectacular late-season color.

Choosing Shade-Friendly Plants

If you have a tricky, low-light space, you might think you need to focus on spring bulbs and early summer perennials, perhaps feeling you need to give up on shade beds once fall arrives. Yet these cool, sheltered areas can easily accommodate some of the shining stars of your fall display, as long as you select plants built that thrive in lower light. Choosing late-blooming shade plant species and striking foliage perennials will ensure your shade beds maintain exceptional color, depth, and lightness from late summer through to the first hard winter frost.

Preparing shade beds for fall requires a little thoughtful soil care. Tree roots, falling leaf litter, and cooler temperatures mean soil moisture levels can fluctuate. Before planting, enrich tired shade soil with organic amendments to improve texture and microbial activity. Working in some ready-made organic compost or earthworm castings can replenish nutrients depleted by summer growth. Another great soil treatment is mushroom compost. You can get lush ready-made bags of Espoma Natural Mushroom Blend Fertilizer, available from Walmart, to replenish tired beds.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Blending in perlite or coarse sand guarantees vital drainage. Add some high grade perlite such as Plantonix Perlite Bliss Premium from Walmart to ensure sharp drainage around young perennial roots. This airy well-draining blend gives roots room to breathe and helps prevent rots during wet weather. However, while watering needs to shift in fall, don’t stop watering altogether. While shade beds take longer to dry out as temperatures drop, shallow root systems still need moisture to establish before freezing weather arrives.

Elevate potted arrangements with pot feet. It’s also a good idea to topdress garden beds with a layer of organic mulch to regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and help protect crowns from frost damage. In colder northern zones (USDA zones 3-5), focus on deep mulching. In warmer southern regions (zones 8-9), positioning shade lovers where they receive protection from intense late-afternoon sun helps blooms last longer into winter. Once you have priming the ground, you’re ready for the following shade-friendly fall foliage plants and late bloomers.

1. Japanese Anemone

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Japanese anemone (Anemone × hybrida) is an exceptional choice for filling in shady spaces just as a lot of other summer blooms are fading. Standing on tall, elegant stems, these resilient perennials produce delicate white or soft pink blooms that sway gracefully in the breeze, adding airy, luminous texture to low-light borders. Depending on the cultivar, anemones bloom reliably from late summer through fall. Buy a pretty pink Curtain Call Pink Japanese Anemone Plant by Proven Winners from Nature Hills for strength and elegance combined.

These fall superstars thrive best in partial shade in zones 4-8, making them ideal for the edges of shade beds or eastern-facing borders where they receive gentle morning sun. They demand moist, humus-rich soil that drains freely and plenty of breathing room when planting them. While they can take a season to establish, they will spread via underground runners to form sweeping drifts. Pair them alongside dark heuchera or hostas for stunning contrast, and mulch in fall to insulate roots.

2. Toad Lily

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When most traditional shade perennials are winding down for the season, toad lily steps into the spotlight with an unforgettable late-season flowering display. Blooming from late summer into mid-fall, this unique perennial produces intricate, star-shaped and speckled flowers in shades of purple, pink, and white. These resemble exotic miniature orchids perched along arching, leafy stems. You can buy Emerald Goddess Garden Store Toad Lily Live Plants from Amazon if you hurry.

Toad lilies (Tricyrtis hirta) are ideal for the front edges of shady pathways, raised beds, shade bed edges, or patio borders where their detailed, intricate blooms can be admired close-up. They prefer partial to light dappled shade in zones 4-8, as a touch of soft morning sunlight encourages maximum flower production. Consistent soil moisture is a must for toad lilies. Plant them in rich, loamy soil amended with leaf mold or compost to retain moisture while ensuring good drainage. Keep them sheltered from harsh winds, and don't let fallen leaves bury their basal rosettes.

3. Bugbane

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For gardeners seeking dramatic height and native charm, bugbane (also known as black cohosh or baneberry) delivers a striking vertical element for fall shade gardens. Reaching heights of 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8m), this fine perennial sends up fragrant, bottle-brush wands of tiny white or pale lavender flowers from late summer into autumn, often towering above deep purple or bronze-cast foliage. Try Pink Spike Bugbane from Plant Addicts, for pale pink flowering wands and rich purple foliage.

Unlike many flowering perennials, bugbane (Actaea racemosa syn. Cimicifuga racemosa) can thrive in full shade as well as partial shade in zones 3-8, making it invaluable as a background anchor behind shorter shade plants like hostas or ferns. It prefers deep, rich, moisture-retentive soil in a spot protected from sweeping gusts. Give plants ample room to expand, spacing at least 2-3 feet (60-90cm) apart. Don't let the soil dry out during dry spells, as drought stress causes lower foliage to drop.

4. Blue Leadwood (Plumbago)

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Blue leadwood (commonly called plumbago) delivers late-season flowers and intense foliage tones in one compact, low-growing package. Growing just 8-12 inches (20-30cm) tall, this spreading groundcover (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) produces electric blue flowers from midsummer to the first freeze. As temperatures drop, its leaves shift to bronze, burgundy, and crimson. Buy Blue Plumbago Plants from Nature Hills at a bargain price for gleaming blooms in the shade.

This versatile performer excels in partial shade in zones 5-9, particularly in spots receiving morning sun and dappled afternoon shade. It is ideal for edging beds, cascading over stone retaining walls, or planting beneath high-canopy shrubs and trees. Plumbago tolerates drought once fully established, but soggy winter soil will lead to root loss. Plant in well-draining soil, and pair with white Japanese anemones for an arresting contrast. Don't panic if it emerges late: this is a slow starter that often saves its best energy for a dazzling late-fall finale.

5. Heuchera (Coral Bells)

(Image credit: Gratysanna / Getty Images)

While coral bells (Heuchera spp.) flower during spring and early summer, their foliage steals the show during fall and winter. Available in an array of leaf colors, from warm caramel, copper, and fiery orange to chocolate-brown, lime-gold, and purple-black, heuchera bring continuous, non-fading sparkle to shady borders. You can buy Daylily Nursery's rich purple Berry Smoothie Heuchera Plants from Walmart as 3-inch (8cm) plugs that add instant lush plummy color.

Coral bells thrive in partial shade in zones 4-9, forming compact clumps 12-18 inches (30-45cm) wide that make ideal border edgings or container fillers. Weave different varieties together, or pair plum-leaved cultivars alongside Japanese forest grass. Good drainage is a must, so amend heavy clay soils with perlite, fine gravel, or organic compost. In northern zones, frost-heaving can lift crowns above soil level. Topdress with a layer of organic mulch in late fall, but don't bury the central crown.

6. Japanese Forest Grass

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

Adding varying texture is essential for bringing energy to low-light spaces. Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) brings unrivaled fluid movement to shade beds. Unlike most sun-loving ornamental grasses, this elegant perennial thrives in shade, forming cascading mounds of slender ribbon foliage. Buy Plants That Work All Gold Japanese Forest Grass from Nature Hills for natural flowing luminescence.

Color cultivars offer great seasonal versatility. Golden varieties like Aureola brighten dark corners in summer, while autumn-shifting cultivars like Nicolas turn copper, orange, and golden-red as night temperatures cool. Plant along shady pathways, raised beds, or container edges where its weeping stems can spill freely. This perennial prefers rich, moist, well-draining soil in dappled or partial shade in zones 5-9, as harsh afternoon sun will scorch leaf tips. Don't cut back foliage in fall: leave the dried, copper leaves intact to provide graceful winter structure.

7. Variegated Solomon’s Seal

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Variegated Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum var. pluriflorum 'Variegatum') is a tough, graceful perennial that thrives in dry, deep shade where other plants struggle. While its sweet, bell-shaped flowers appear in spring, it’s the foliage that brightens shady beds through fall. Arching stems lined with soft green leaves edged in crisp white turn a luminous butter-yellow in autumn. Buy Direct Gardening’s Solomon’s Seal Plants from Walmart for gleaming goodness in the shade.

Growing 2-3 feet (60-90cm) tall, Solomon’s seal slowly spreads via rhizomes to form sweeping colonies under mature shade trees or along woodland slopes, where other plants struggle. It tolerates deep shade to partial shade, making it a reliable choice for north-facing building walls or dense tree canopies in zones 3-8. Soil should be rich, moist, and loamy, though established plants can tolerate dry shade and occasional dampness. Combine it with low groundcovers like blue leadwood or dark heuchera, for multi-layered height and color contrast.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Early fall is make or break for a lawn: prep grass for success and it will get busy growing strong roots ready for a lush summer sward. Forgo October lawn care, however, and you can look forward to another year of bare patches and weeds. It’s easy to think of your lawn as an outdoor carpet but this is a rug you grow, and grass is no different from any other plant, so a little pre-winter lawn care will reap big rewards next year.

In October, the right lawn care tasks to undertake depends on what turfgrass you grow. If your lawn is made up of cool-season grasses such as fescue, bluegrass or ryegrass, it will keep growing through fall, building deep roots before winter dormancy. If your lawn is a warm-season turfgrass like Bermuda, St Augustine or zoysia, October is the month grass starts to go dormant with growth slowing down, giving weeds an opportunity to take hold.

You don't have to find time to get all these fall lawn care tasks done, but do some and you can look forward to lush results. It's been a tough year for all our lawns, so here's your opportunity to revive and repair grass after summer heat.

1. Aerate the Ground

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If you only do one fall lawn-care job, make it aerating your lawn. Punching hundreds of tiny holes into your lawn will help grass recover from the hot, dry summer, allowing essential moisture and oxygen into the soil to fuel root growth. While you can simply push the tines of a garden fork into the ground to aerate lawn soil, the quick and easy way to aerate your lawn is with a rotary lawn aerator such as this Heavy Duty Rolling Lawn Aerator from Walmart.

Lawn aeration will also improve the soil structure for better drainage and fewer soggy patches of waterlogged ground through fall and winter.

2. Fill In Bare Spots in Cool-Season Lawns

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In many parts of the country, October brings warm soil and and cool air, which is the perfect combination for grass seed germination. If your cool-season turfgrass has suffered from foot traffic, dog play or drought this summer, now is an ideal time to repair bare patches in a lawn. And if you've just aerated your lawn, then all those tiny pinholes will help seed germinate fast, too.

First, it's wise to do a five-minute test to check grub worms aren't behind any bare patches of lawn. Then loosen up the topsoil with a rake and spread a seed product such as this Tall Fescue Lawn Repair Mix from Lowe's. Water, then continue watering to keep the soil moist until the new grass is growing well.

If the entire lawn looks spotty, October is also a good moment to overseed your lawn, adding new seed to the turfgrass to create a thicker, lusher sward. First, mow the grass shorter than you normally would, then choose a suitable seed and apply with a broadcast spreader to get an even coverage. There's no need to fork out for a push-along spreader to overseed an average-sized lawn as a cheap hand-powered spreader like this Scotts Whirl Spreader from Walmart does the job just fine. Again, keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate and grass is established.

3. Fertilize Cool-Season Grass for Strong Roots

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Cool-season turfgrass is still actively growing in fall, allowing you to fertilize a lawn in fall. This input of energy helps grass to recover from summer stress and stocks up reserves in the roots that plants will use all winter long. If you overseeded, do check first that the seed product used didn't already have fertilizer included, as many do.

Choose a fertilizer that's purposely made for fall application and prioritizes strong root growth such as Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard Fall Lawn Food, available from Amazon. With a low nitrogen content, it won't cause a surge in blade growth with winter just around the corner, but has potassium to strengthen roots and make the grass more cold hardy. Follow the packet instructions carefully and don't be tempted to over-fertilize. Timing it just before a good rain shower will save you having to water it in.

4. Mulch Fallen Leaves Instead of Raking

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Regardless of the type of grass you have, lightly mulching a lawn with fall leaves is another way to add nutrients to the ground, and it'll save you the job of raking them up. Run the lawn mower over fallen leaves a few times until they're cut into small pieces about the size of dimes then leave 'em lie. They'll slowly break down over winter to feed the soil.

It's important not to smother grass with leaf mulch because this chokes out the grass and invites disease, so only ever create a light scattering and rake out any clumps so air and water can still get down to the grass.

5. Banish Weeds from Warm-Season Grasses

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There's a short window in the first half of October for keeping winter weeds out of warm-season grass, when you can spread a pre-emergent herbicide such as BioAdvanced All-In-One Lawn Weed Crabgrass Killer, available from Lowe's. Check the weather forecast to choose a time without prolonged rain that may wash away some of the product.

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Take care of these October lawn tasks and you'll prep the grass for a great season of growth next year. Just doing one job will make a big difference – and if you do all five, then you can look forward to having the lawn of your dreams next summer.

Burning bush is one of those plants that, on paper, seems hard to criticize. For years, gardeners have planted this deciduous shrub specifically for that moment in fall when its green leaves suddenly turn an almost impossibly vivid crimson.

It makes for a spectacular show, just as its name would suggest, and it's very easy to see why it's so popular. But there's a problem; burning bush (Euonymus alatus) is native to Asia and has become invasive in many parts of the US, as its seeds can be spread by birds, allowing the shrub to escape gardens and establish in natural areas, where it can compete with native vegetation.

So if you're thinking about adding one to your garden this fall, I'd pause before reaching for your wallet. Instead, there's another native shrub I'd much rather plant.

A Great Burning Bush Alternative

Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) might not have quite the same name recognition as burning bush, but it deserves a place on your fall planting list. This deciduous shrub is native to the eastern US, with glossy green foliage that can turn rich shades of red, orange, purple and maroon in the fall.

It's long been praised as a wildlife garden must, as it provides cover and nesting habitat for birds, not to mention supports bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Better still, it produces fragrant white flower spikes in early summer even before all of that attractive fall foliage, adding some serious multi-season interest to the mix.

Now, that being said, not every Virginia sweetspire will necessarily produce exactly the same fall color. Growing conditions, climate and the individual plant can all influence the intensity and duration of the display, which means those who want all of that same burning bush-flavored glory ought to opt for the cultivar 'Henry's Garnet' (available to buy here from Nature Hills).

Shop Henry's Garnet:

Generic 2 Henry's Garnet Itea Virginica Sweetspire

Meadow Decor Henry's Garnet Plant Live for Planting

Spring Meadow Nursery Henry's Garnet Sweetspire - 3 Gallon Shrub

Now, you don't necessarily need 'Henry's Garnet' to enjoy Virginia sweetspire (although this Little Henry® Virginia Sweetspire from Nature Hills is a pretty sweet option for those with small gardens). Still, if gorgeous fall color is one of your main reasons for making the swap from burning bush, it's certainly worth seeking out, as is this stunning Fountains Of Rouge™ Virginia Sweetspire option.

I know, I know; I feel like I'm raining on a lot of people's parades by shaking my head over burning bush, and I'm not going to pretend it isn't beautiful. Honestly, if you've ever seen a mature specimen glowing red in the October sunshine, you'll understand the appeal immediately.

Still, beautiful doesn't necessarily mean appropriate for every garden, and several states have actually restricted or banned its use in landscaping. So if you're standing in a garden center this fall admiring a burning bush, I'd take a moment before putting it in your cart.

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Virginia sweetspire is not an identical replacement for burning bush, of course, but it does something that is arguably better: fragrant summer flowers, beautiful autumn foliage, habitat for wildlife, and a shrub that earns its place in the landscape for more than one spectacular season.

You can't argue with that now, can you?

Sun loving, drought tolerant and cold hardy: hydrangeas have spiked in popularity, especially with so many new and remarkable varieties now available. There are so many, even the professionals are having trouble keeping up.

I think one of the nicest features of H. paniculata grandiflora, or PeeGee, hydrangeas, is that most change colour from a creamy white to beautiful shades of pink or red as the blossoms mature. Some, like H. p. Limelight, start out as a beautiful green shade and then age to cream with varying pink tones.

The H. paniculatas variety also vary in height and breadth, which is an important issue with so many smaller gardens. The standard, or tree form, is another great feature, especially in cramped spaces when a two- to three-metre tree can make a great focal point and also act as a screen.

By far one of the most popular low growing varieties is a Proven Winners introduction called H. p. Bobo. Growing less than one metre tall and about two metres wide, it is one of the earliest to bloom with beautiful white panicles that mature into a pleasing pink.

A close competitor, H. p. Dragon Baby, was introduced by Van Belle Nursery in Abbotsford. It opens with slightly smaller triangular blooms with a touch of green, which quickly turn white and finally finishes as a rich pink. I find it always looks perky and stays very low in the two-to-three-foot range.

Another Van Belle introduction, H.p. Bubble Bath, is gaining attention heads because of its low-mounding form. It also opens lime green, and its huge blossoms age to rosy pink. It’s also a shorty, only getting up to one metre tall and wide.

One of the newest developments by Van Belle is H. p. Hot Sauce, which has more distinct triangular panicles that open a creamy white and then turn pink and red. It’s another very compact variety, growing to less than one metre tall, and it keeps blooming well into autumn.

Last of the shorties is another Proven Winner H.p. Fire Light Tidbit. Similar to H.p. Bobo, with a mounding habit, it also starts out as bright lime, transitioning to white and then quickly turning to a dragon-fruit neon pink. Another feature is its beautiful fiery, orange-red fall foliage.

The popular lime family is always expanding and improving. H.p. Limelight was the original strong-stemmed lime hydrangea, growing up to two metres tall and wide. It is very impressive, but as the blossoms age the green can change into pink and ultimately burgundy in the fall. A shorter, more compact form is called H.p. Little Lime is about half the size of the original with the same colours.

H.p. Little Lime Punch is very similar to Little Lime in size, but the difference comes as the flowers begin to age. Green turns to a festive blend of pink, green, white, and Hawaiian Punch red. It is not only vibrant but very uplifting. In addition to all these varieties, Proven Winners recently introduced H. p. Limelight Prime. It is a very strong plant with darker green foliage and grows to about two metres tall and wide. This new variety holds its lime colour weeks before transforming into a nice bubble gum pink, like their famous petunia. It is the ultimate Limelight icon.

There are also a number of mid-sized varieties available and Van Belle has introduced some very good ones. H.p. Candelabra has significantly larger, creamy triangular panicles that slowly age out to pink and finally turn red for autumn. Growing just over one metre tall, it has a beautiful upright form.

Another nice mid-sized variety with a strong upright form is H.p. Bouncy which features more pointed triangular panicles that hold their nice lime/white colour before turning pink in late summer going into fall.

H.p. Moonrock, which is another lime-cream combination in the four-to-six-foot range sports good sized flowers that hold their colour well into autumn. It is a distinctly beautiful variety.

H.p. Torch is a more open-flowering variety with creamy flowers eventually colouring up to pink and red in late spring and hanging in all summer into fall.

A significant change from the usual mid-sized varieties, H.p. Puffer Fish is really unique: the huge flowers are fluffy white and often obscure the plants’ foliage. Unlike other varieties, the creamy white flowers turn and hold a pure white colour. It is a first-class performer.

H.p. PowerBall has a very unique inflorescent panicle, more reminiscent of the macrophylla hydrangeas. Growing up to six feet tall and wide its super-round blooms open a refreshing green, lighten up a little as they mature, and finally turn a deep rich pink. It can be grown where many mophead hydrangeas can’t grow in hot sun or severe cold. It is very strong and sturdy and deserves a spot in your garden.

H.p. Pinky Winky has been well known for many years, but Proven Winners has introduced H.p. Pinky Winky Prime which has absolutely huge, pointed panicles on a plant that stretches up to nine feet in size. This bicolour variety has enormous, more deeply hued pink blooms which turn a very hot pink as they age with the colour moving up from the bottom to the top of the flower heads.

Proven Winners’ H.p. Quick Fire Fab is one of the more striking tall varieties. Growing to almost two metres wide, it has football sized flowers opening a coconut white and quickly turning a beautiful watermelon red. The pink darkens from the base of the flowers to the tip here as well. What’s interesting is that the tips stay lime green in contrast to the emerging hot pink. It’s an eye-popping plant and one that warrants a home in a larger garden space. The Quick Fire family is also one of the earliest to bloom.

The demand for all of these hydrangeas has truly surprised many growers this year as some varieties sold out early. Their long-lasting beauty, tolerance to both heat and drought, especially this summer, has truly increased their value as more climate-appropriate plants. That only enhances the value of their long blooming habits and many stunning colour changes.

Related

• Brian Minter: This time of year your garden soil needs some help. Here's how
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Sir David and Lady Beckham have a lot going for them, and it turns out an enviable garden with a greenhouse straight out of every gardener’s wildest dreams is one of those things.

Their Victorian-style greenhouse is stunning, and the growing space inside is immaculate, complete with raised beds, perfectly stacked staging, and rows of vegetables so perfectly placed they look fake. It’s seriously inspiring a whole generation of gardeners to wonder whether they too could pull this off, even with a garden in rural Kansas. I asked a few experts, and the answer is a resounding “Yes!” with some planning.

(Image credit: Millie Pilkington / Country Life Picture Library / Future Plc)

Adding a greenhouse to your garden can sound extremely complicated, but once you actually have one, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. Andy Connolly, owner of Little Flower Cottage, puts it simply: "A greenhouse gives you a few extra weeks at both ends of the season and will keep the worst of the rain off any tender crops. That means the likes of tomatoes, chilies, and cucumbers all ripen properly instead of doing very little when outside in a cool August."

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Getting the Design Right

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The Beckhams' elegant black Victorian-style greenhouse isn't just practical – it creates a timeless focal point. If you have the budget, premium manufacturers like Hartley Botanic make beautiful Victorian-style greenhouses in the US that capture a very similar look. They are a serious investment, but they're built to last for decades and can become a real feature of the garden.

Don't worry if that's beyond your budget, though. There are now plenty of affordable greenhouse kits with black aluminum frames and traditional styling that deliver a similar feel for a fraction of the price. Paired with neat raised beds, gravel paths, and simple wooden staging, they can recreate much of the Beckhams' polished aesthetic without the luxury price tag.

The greenhouse should feel like part of your garden rather than an afterthought. Choosing a design you'll still love years from now means it's far more likely to become a space you use every day.

Shop Victorian-Inspired Greenhouse Kits

Sylviera 6x4ft Greenhouse With Hygrometer

BOOCII Graffy Wooden Cold Frame Greenhouse

Amerlife Grower’s Haven 14x9.5x9ft Polycarbonate Greenhouse

Buy the Greenhouse You'll Eventually Need

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Arguably, the most important advice comes before you’ve even opened your wallet or clicked “add to cart.”

Marta Pawlik, Co-Founder and Director of luxury property management company Laik, whose professional background is in styling spaces, approaches greenhouse design the same way she would a room: "Purchase the greenhouse you'll eventually need, not the greenhouse you need now."

Connolly echoes this: "Almost everyone I know wishes they'd got a bigger size because once you have one you want to grow more in it."

Another tip from Pawlik that nobody else will tell you: "Don't build your greenhouse at the bottom of your garden. You will never go past it, and it will be neglected. Have it within 20 steps of your back door and in sight of your kitchen window."

It sounds obvious in retrospect, but then most good advice does.

Getting the Layout Right

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The Beckhams’ greenhouse earns some major brownie points for its use of raised beds and tiered staging. It looks like it’s simply for the aesthetics, but experts tell me it’s actually for a practical reason. Connolly advises: "Keep the tall crops like tomatoes and cucumbers in the ground-level beds on the side that won't cast shade on everything else. Use staging or tiered shelves for seed trays, herbs and pots, so they are closer to the light. Staging also keeps young plants away from slugs."

Pawlik agrees: "Raised beds heat up sooner than ground-level soil, provide better water drainage, and go easy on your back. Allow a minimum of a 2 feet (60 cm) path between them and keep the ones up against the glazing under 2.5 feet (75 cm) in width."

The Biggest Greenhouse Mistake

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Any experienced gardener will tell you the most common mistake is not ventilating a greenhouse enough. Connolly is emphatic about this: "On a sunny spring day, a closed greenhouse can easily get to over 85°F (30°C), and all your seedlings will be killed. You can buy cheap automatic vent openers which are definitely worth getting and setting up at the start of the season."

Victor Smushkevich, founder of Mold Scanner AI, adds another dimension to the ventilation issue: "The mistake I'd put first is treating a greenhouse like a sealed glass box. Sun heats it, plants release water, and the moisture has nowhere to go. Choose the structure by its vents before you look at glazing or size. You want openings high and low, and on opposite ends, so air moves through instead of sitting."

His practical advice for mold prevention is equally direct: water in the morning so surfaces dry before evening, space plants so leaves aren't packed together, and don't leave trays of standing water on the floor.

What to Grow First

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What should you actually grow in your greenhouse? It’s the question every new greenhouse owner asks, and Connolly’s answer is reassuring and straightforward: "Tomatoes are the obvious one because they're forgiving and what you get is great. Salad leaves, basil and chilies are close behind."

What should you avoid if you’re a beginner? "Melons and eggplants are more trouble than they're worth. They need a lot of heat, and you'll spend most of the summer worrying about them – all you'll get is, at best, a few fruits at the end of it."

Every October, I expect my husband to be outside tackling a huge list of autumn jobs. Instead, he starts with something much less exciting – and apparently much more important.

As I believe I have mentioned at least 1,000 times by this point, my husband is a professional gardener with over 20 years experience under his belt, so I've learned that when he says something needs doing in the garden, I probably shouldn't argue. I may occasionally question his methods, but experience has taught me that there's usually a very good reason behind them.

Still, I used to find it slightly (read: very) strange that one of his first jobs every October isn't raking leaves, cutting back perennials, or giving the garden the sort of dramatic autumn tidy-up that makes everything look instantly neat.

Start October With This One Job

If you're anything like me, the first few leaves on the lawn can trigger a sudden urge to find a rake, but my husband isn't interested in making the garden look completely leaf-free the moment autumn arrives. (He firmly believes that leaf litter can provide shelter for overwintering insects and other wildlife, while gradually breaking down and adding organic matter to the soil).

He doesn't cut everything down, either, as he says some perennials can be left standing through winter, particularly plants with useful seedheads or hollow stems. Those stems can provide shelter for insects, while seedheads can provide food for birds and add some much-needed structure to the winter garden.

The one job he does do, though? He cleans his garden tools, and then he sharpens them.

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It's a job that doesn't come hand-in-hand with a satisfying pile of leaves, or a dramatically shorter hedge. There isn't usually a reason to snap a before-and-after photograph, either. Still, a well-maintained pair of pruners is considerably more useful when you're about to spend the next few months pruning, cutting back and maintaining the garden.

That's why my husband recommends cleaning and disinfecting garden tools in fall before putting them away for winter, and really take the time to make sure the tools you're going to rely on are actually ready for the work ahead.

It doesn't have to be a long and complicated process, either; he starts by removing dirt, dried plant material and sap from the tools, and anything particularly grubby gets a proper wash before the tool is dried thoroughly.

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Then he looks at the blades. Are they dull? Rusty? Damaged? Is anything loose? Do the blades open and close properly?

If anything needs sharpening, he'll do that next (this is not a man who is ready to accept that something might just be getting a little blunt). Finally, he makes sure that metal parts are lightly lubricated to help protect against rust, particularly if any of his tools are going into storage.

Sure, it's not exactly glamorous work, but it's the sort of boring maintenance that means you're less likely to discover a rusty and blunt pair of pruners when you urgently need them.

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I think the biggest lesson I've taken from watching my husband garden for two decades is that, sure, there are leaves to deal with. Yes, there are plants that need cutting back, bulbs to plant, tender plants to protect and plenty of other jobs that depend on your climate and garden.

But do you know what? You really don't have to attack the whole garden at once, because sometimes the smartest first job is simply making sure your tools are clean, sharp and ready for action.

Honestly, once they are, then all those October jobs suddenly become a little easier. And if my husband is right (which, annoyingly, he usually is – although I'll never tell him so), that's a much better place to start than grabbing a rake and trying to make the entire garden look tidy before Halloween.

Sometimes you want exotic, unusual plants that nobody else on the block has in their front yard. But other times, it can be the tried-and-true fall classics that make the most impact to guests and passers-by. When it comes to choosing the best container plants to stand sentry on your porch during this new season, there are a few undisputed fall favorites that will add instant, lasting vibrancy.

Entryway plants are among the most impactful elements in a home's exterior design. They instantly transform the mood for visiting guests, while offering a warm, cheerful welcome to family members returning home at the end of a long day. But when setting up front door containers in fall, it’s important to pick varieties that maintain their rich colors and crisp forms through the cooler winds and dipping temperatures.

Creating a stunning fall doorway display doesn't mean relying on a single pot of flowers. By combining cold-hardy blooms, ornamental grasses, and rich foliage, you can build seasonal displays that are often capable of coping with light frosts. Whether your porch receives plenty of sunshine or morning shade, here are the outstanding container heroes that should go straight to the top of your fall shortlist.

Choosing Front Door Plants for Fall

They say first impressions are critical, and your front door plants serve as the ultimate welcoming committee to anyone approaching your home. Bright, flowering plants instantly wake up the entire entrance, providing vital energy as the sunny skies of summer fade into the more muted shades of autumn. Selecting resilient container plants that thrive as daylight shortens ensures your porch stays vibrant in the coming weeks and straight through to winter.

Tapping into the warm palettes of fall, these cold-hardy container heroes come into their own as fading summer stalwarts lose their strength, fade back, or turn up their toes. Saturated leafy perennials, resilient floral tones, and cascading grasses allows you to create porchways and door entrances soaked in the rich shades of the season, filled with coppers, plums and neon chartreuse. Mix and match and play about with mixed heights and contrasting textures for ultra vivid displays that will have your neighbors doing a double-take.

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Regional conditions play a major role in how your entryway containers perform. Northern gardeners facing early hard frosts should prioritize cold-hardy foliage, while sun-drenched southern porches can keep select fall flowers for pots that bloom well into November. Proper drainage is vital as rainfall increases. Elevate planters off cold concrete using pot feet or pot toes to prevent waterlogged roots. Pot toe classics like Lemon Road Terracotta Pot Feet, available from Amazon, help to improve airflow and maintain healthy roots in these potted plants through fall.

Finally, make sure you use a light, well-draining potting soil for your front door pots. ixing generous handfuls of perlite into a premium potting soil, like Back to the Roots Organic Succulent & Cacti Soil, available from Walmart, will help to prevent root rot in cooler weather. These are all at their best in October, and some of them will bloom right up to the first frost. Some are even cold-hardy enough to survive through winter.

1. Chrysanthemum

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You won’t be the only home on the block featuring mums in your front entryway, but chrysanthemums (C. × morifolium) remain the ultimate fall porch plant for good reason. Their dense, dome-shaped blossoms deliver an unmatched punch of jewel-toned color when summer annuals fade. For perennial stamina, cold-hardy garden mums spread via underground runners and survive harsh winters to return next spring. For dramatic spider or pompom blooms, florist mums give maximum short-term impact. Garden Mum Quart Pots are available from Plant Addicts in a range of lush tones, including sultry Orange Zest and Paradiso Pink.

Position large glazed urns of mums on either side of your doorstep, where they can receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Pair with trailing ivy or silver dichondra as spillers. Deadhead any spent blooms weekly to encourage continuous flowering. Northern growers should move pots against warm walls ahead of early frosts, while southern gardeners must monitor moisture in sunny spots. Never allow container soil to dry out, as thirsty mums will drop unopened buds and collapse.

2. Pansies

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With vibrant colors, a super-long growing season, and often two-toned faces in mixes of red, yellow, orange, white and purple, pansies (Viola × wittrockiana) are essentials for fall containers. Planted in October, these cold-weather champions quickly establish deep roots, offering up to 6 months of continuous color through mild winter stretches and into spring. For something that really sets your porch apart from the rest, try a blue pansy such as Delta Pro True Blue Pansy from Trees.com.

Pansies thrive in full sun to partial shade, so they are ideal for sheltered porches and covered entryways. To maximize visual impact, plant them densely in low, wide terracotta bowl planters or window boxes flanking the doorway. Combine dark purple or rust-orange pansies with ruffled ornamental kale or golden sedum for striking textural contrast. Pinch off faded flower heads weekly to trigger relentless new buds, but don't let containers sit in standing water during heavy rain. There should be a rule that every house needs to install fall pansies to provide cheer to the neighborhood during the drearier months.

3. Asters

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Asters (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium) bring soft, daisy-like texture and dramatic color to fall container arrangements. In mid-to-late fall, they produce dazzling mounds of delicate daisy-style flowers in mounds of purple, pink, lilac and white. Each is centered with a cheerful golden disc that provides an invaluable source of late-season nectar for migrating pollinators. You can buy stunning Aster Woods Purple from Walmart as live plants for quick developing color that lasts all season. In fact, asters are fairly cold hardy, so flowers can last past early frosts into winter.

They can spread via underground stolons when planted in beds, so growing them in containers keeps their vigorous habit perfectly controlled. Place them in a sunny porch spot in large ceramic pots, using them as mid-height fillers alongside tall grasses. Pair purple varieties with orange mums for a high-contrast color scheme that captures the essence of fall. Don’t shear back spent flowers in late fall, as the seed heads can feed visiting songbirds when natural food sources become scarce.

4. Sedum

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A structural favorite among designers, Sedum 'Autumn Joy' (Hylotelephium spectabile 'Autumn Joy') is an outstanding upright succulent that puts on its best show just as the rest of the garden winds down. Enormous, rosy-pink flower clusters atop thick, fleshy stems gradually age into deep rusty-bronze and mahogany tones by late fall. You can buy Autumn Joy from Nature Hills, as well as the lusty purple partner-in-crime, Mr Goodbud Sedum from Plants That Work. Their multi-branched flower heads cannot be ignored and are sure to attract ohs and ahs from visitors.

These ultra-tough perennials are ideal for drought-prone, sunny front entryways that receive harsh winds and hot afternoon light. Plant as a central focus in rustic terracotta or heavy concrete containers. Pair the bold, broccoli-like flower heads with fine-textured Japanese forest grass and trailing ivy for a balanced thriller-filler-spiller These sedums demand exceptional drainage above all else. Avoid heavy peat soils that hold water in cold weather. Water sparingly, allowing soil to dry out between soaks, and don't over-fertilize, which causes stems to grow weak and floppy.

5. Ornamental Kale and Cabbage

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Ornamental kale and cabbage (Brassica oleracea) are cool season annuals that put on a spectacular show in fall. They fill fall containers with easy dynamics, showcasing ruffled rosettes in brilliant shades of magenta, plum, cream, and jade green which actually deepen in color as night temperatures drop below 50F (10C). Capable of surviving hard frosts down to 5F (-15C), they are the ultimate winter-proof choice for drafty front steps and exposed north-facing porches. You can currently buy Purple Ornamental Cabbage Plants from Amazon.

Tuck them into low wooden crate planters or elevated urns as structural focal points. You can pair rich purple kale with golden Japanese forest grass or trailing violas for a high-end designer look. For positioning, ensure containers have wide drainage holes, as soggy soil is their primary weakness in cool weather. Topdress with a light slow-release organic fertilizer when planting, but don't overwater as daylight shortens. These resilient brassicas will hold their crisp, geometric rosettes right through snow snaps and long after traditional patio flowers have faded away.

6. Heuchera (Coral Bells)

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Coral bells (aka heuchera) are the unsung heroes of fall container design, celebrated for their ruffled foliage in breathtaking shades of caramel, fiery copper, deep plum, and chartreuse lime. They provide year-round shaping and can hold their rich foliage color brilliantly even through freezing weather. Use darker foliage varieties like Black Pearl or warm copper types like Caramel as rich visual anchors against yellow mums and purple pansies. You can buy Daylily Nursery's rich purple Berry Smoothie Heuchera Plants from Walmart as 3-inch (8cm) plugs that add instant intense color.

Heuchera plants adapt seamlessly to live as both sunny and shaded containers, making them ideal for covered porches where flowering annuals often struggle. Plant them in medium-sized glazed ceramic pots or mixed window boxes with light, well-draining soil. In cold northern zones, ensure pots are frost-proof terracotta or resin to prevent cracking during freeze-thaw cycles. Don't cut back healthy foliage in autumn – simply groom untidy lower leaves in spring to maintain a tidy mound.

7. Japanese Forest Grass

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Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola') brings effortless movement and graceful cascading texture to front door displays. Its slender, golden-striped ribbon foliage forms weeping mounds that soften the hard edges of container rims, ageing into warm copper and burnt-orange tones by late fall. You can buy Plants That Work All Gold Japanese Forest Grass from Nature Hills. Pair it with deep purple ornamental cabbage or dark coral bells for designer-grade color contrast.

This shade-tolerant perennial grass is ideal for north-facing entryways or covered porches shielded from harsh direct sunlight. Position it as a textural spiller or standalone statement in tall, dark planters where its cascading gold can spill over the sides without touching cold ground. Keep the potting mix consistently damp, as dry soils cause leaf tips to scorch and turn brown. Allow the dried, golden-bronze leaves to remain on the plant through winter for graceful movement and texture in snow.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Your lemon tree is heaving with juicy fruit just as the weather is starting to cool, but take the right steps to look after your lemon tree in October and it'll all still ripen very nicely, thankyou very much! Regular lemon tree care such as full sun and good drainage doesn't change in fall, but you'll need to give your tree some extra TLC if you're to enjoy all those lemons at their plumpest, and it's time to start preparing your tree for winter, too.

Lemons are among the least cold-hardy citrus trees, which means the first cold nights of fall can damage leaves, fruit and new growth, so it's vital to know what to do with lemon trees in fall. But primed and protected from plummeting temperatures, your tree will survive perfectly well through winter, ready to grow another bumper crop next year. And if you're planning on bringing your lemon tree indoors over winter, the right care means you won't move a heap of pests inside with it!

Whatever zone you garden in, and whether you're planning on keeping your lemon tree indoors or outdoors over winter, here's exactly what to do in October.

1. Pick Ripe Lemons

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In October, lemon trees will be holding fruit at several stages from hard green lemons that won't be ready for months to ripe ones that should be picked now.

Color isn't a good way to tell if a lemon is ripe: a lemon can be completely yellow before the juice is ready, and a ripe lemon can still have a little green on it. The only way to know for sure that it's truly ripe is to cut it open and taste it, but there are plenty of indicators to guide you. Ripe lemons will feel heavy for their size as they're full of juice, and will still feel firm but yield slightly to your touch. Scratch the peel lightly with a thumbnail near the stem and a ripe lemon will smell fresh and sweet.

Cut lemons from your tree with hand pruners rather than pulling, as this can tear the skin and fruit with torn skin rots faster. Lemons don't keep ripening after they're picked so a sour lemon is going to stay sour, so leave any that aren't ready on the tree. Follow the other steps to care for lemon trees in fall, and you'll keep lemons ripening a treat.

2. Cut Back on Watering

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Reduce the amount of water you give your tree now, since cool soil stays wet a lot longer than it did in summer. Now fruit is formed, your lemon tree will use up less moisture, too. In rainy areas, you can probably stop irrigating altogether and a long-probe soil moisture meter such as this from Amazon takes out the guesswork.

3. Prune Suckers

While you shouldn't prune a lemon tree in fall as this can cause it to put out tender new growth that'll be vunerable to winter cold, you can get rid of suckers. These are shoots that grow from the rootstock below the graft union (the bulge near the bottom of the trunk) and are often thorny and fast-growing, stealing valuable energy from the tree. Any fruit they make is usually sour and seedy, so prune lemon tree suckers by cutting them off flush with the trunk, using a sharp pair or hand pruners such as these Fiskars pruners from Lowe's.

4. Check for Pests

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Of course, it's always a smart move to keep an eye out for pests but if you're planning to move a lemon tree indoors, it's especially important. Common lemon tree pests that were kept in check outside by rain, wind and predators can quickly take over a lemon tree once it's sheltered indoors.

Look for sticky leaves which are a sign of brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum) and citrus mealybugs (Planococcus citri, above), as are ants crawling up and down the trunk. Scale look like small flat bumps on stems and leaf veins. To check for two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae), tap a branch while holding a sheet of white paper beneath, then watch for specks that start moving.

As you're going to be eating fruit from the tree, use a plant-derived solution such as Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil, available from Amazon. Neem oil is effective against scale, mealybygs and spider mites, but be specific. For scale, scrub with a toothbrush or scrape with a fingernail before spraying. Before spraying for mealybug, dab a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol on the pest clusters first to break through their repellent coating. If you suspect spider mites, use a strong hose jet to rinse off most of the mites, then spray the undersides of the leaves with neem oil.

Repeat once a week to break the pest's lifecycle.

5. Move Potted Trees Inside

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Roots in a pot are a lot more exposed to cold than roots in the ground, so don't wait until frost is forecast before moving your lemon tree indoors. Instead, when nighttime temperatures start dropping to around 40°F (4°C), it's time to take action. A waterproof thermometer that alerts you when a set temperature threshold is breached, like this the nifty GoveeLife Thermo-Hygrometer, available via Amazon, takes any worry away.

Big pots are heavy so use a heavy-duty plant caddy such as the Vigoro Metal Plant Caddy, available from The Home Depot, which holds up to 119 pounds (54kg). Position your lemon tree in a south-facing window where it will get at least six hours of sun a day, well away from heating vents. Don't be alarmed if the tree drops some leaves after it's moved inside as this is a common reaction. Water less than you did outside, and only when the soil is dry about 2 inches (5cm) down.

(Image credit: Getty Images)6. Get Frost Covers Ready for Outdoor Trees

If you're planning on leaving your lemon tree outdoors for the winter, you should have a frost cover ready, well before cold weather shows up in the forecast. One option is to use a heavy-duty cover like this DeWitt Ultimate Plant Winter Blanket from Walmart that you can cut to size. Push a few stakes around the tree so the blanket doesn't touch the leaves, and let the cover hang all the way to the ground so it traps heat coming up from the soil.

Another option if you're growing a tree in a pot is to cut a regular frost blanket like this Cover Protection, also from Walmart to size and leave permanently wrapped around the pot to protect the roots, then pop a plant protection bag on the tree itself when cold weather is forecast. Breathable plant protection bags such as these Frost Jackets from Walmart have a zipper and drawstring that means they're simple to slip on and off when needed.

Don't use plastic, because leaves that touch it are more likely to freeze, and take the blanket off the next morning once the air warms up. Before a forecasted freeze, water the soil and pick any ripe lemons.

If you've seen folk adorning their lemon trees with a string of Christmas fairy lights to bring a little protective heat over winter, then it's good to know that only old-school incandescent bulbs release warmth, and modern LED lights don't.

If You Garden in Zones 10 or 11

Lemon trees will typically survive outdoors year-round in USDA zones 10-11 where winter temperatures don't drop below 30°F. However, a lemon tree growing in a pot is far more vulnerable to cold than one planted in the ground, so you may need to move it to a sheltered postion.

If you Garden in Zone 9

It's generally safe to overwinter a lemon tree outdoors, but you must monitor the weather and be ready to give it the temporary protection of a frost blanket if temperatures threaten to drop below 30°F. A tree growing in a pot is more vulnerable to cold than one growing in the ground, but it does bring the opportunity of moving it to stand next to a warm, sheltered house wall.

If you Garden in Zone 8 or Colder

In zones 8 and below, freezing temperatures will kill a lemon tree, so bring the plant indoors before fall frosts and only move it back outdoors once spring frosts are fully passed. An unheated greenhouse or conservatory or bright porch is ideal, as long as the temperature doesn't dip below 40°F. A room with a constant temperature is far preferable to one that's heated, where the fluctuations will lead to dropped leaves.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Look after your lemon tree in October and there will be fruit on the tree for months that'll keep ripening all through late fall and winter. Protected from falling temperatures, your tree will survive through winter, ready to grow another crop of juicy lemons next year.

By early fall, leaves are starting to collect along fences and driveways, and parts of the vegetable garden are beginning to fill with fading stems and spent vines. A lot of homeowners bag all of it and set it at the curb. Then a few weeks later, some of them go out and buy bagged mulch for the same perennial beds that debris could have covered. Much of that fall cleanup can be shredded and spread over perennial beds as winter mulch. It costs nothing, and it's already sitting in the yard waiting to be used.

Winter mulching doesn't have to mean store-bought material. Shredded leaves and pine needles work well over perennial beds, and several other types of yard debris can too. Most are best applied after the ground has started to freeze, when they help keep soil temperatures more stable through winter.

That matters because repeated freezing and thawing can lift shallow roots and newly planted perennials out of the ground. Known as heave, this leaves them exposed to cold and drying winds. A layer of mulch helps reduce those temperature swings, giving vulnerable plants extra protection until spring. Here are six free materials you can gather during fall cleanup that make excellent winter mulch, plus how to prepare and use each one.

1. Shredded Deciduous Leaves

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Leaves are one of the best free mulches you can collect during fall cleanup, but they work much better shredded than whole. Whole leaves tend to pack into a wet mat that sheds rain and holds moisture against plant crowns, while shredded leaves stay loose enough for air and water to pass through.

You can shred leaves by running over them with a lawn mower in one or two passes, especially if it has a bagger to collect the pieces as you go. If you're dealing with a large volume of leaves every fall, then a dedicated leaf shredder can make the job much quicker. This Worx Electric Leaf Mulcher from Amazon is designed to reduce piles of dry leaves into fine mulch that's easy to spread around the garden or store until you're ready to use it.

If it's still too early to mulch, keep the shredded leaves in paper yard waste bags, a garden bin, or another dry, sheltered spot until the ground begins to freeze. That's the ideal time to spread them around hardy perennials to help keep soil temperatures more stable through winter.

Maple leaves are especially prone to matting, so shredding is particularly important. Black walnut leaves are the exception. They contain juglone, which can harm tomatoes and other sensitive plants, so it's best to compost them first, where the juglone breaks down over several weeks before you use the compost elsewhere in the garden.

2. Pine Needles

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Pine needles, often sold as pine straw, make an excellent free winter mulch. Fresh pine needles are acidic, but once they're used as mulch, they cause little measurable change in soil pH. They also resist compacting under snow, allowing rain and melting snow to drain through to the soil.

Rake up dry needles as they fall and collect them in a reusable pop-up garden bag until you're ready to mulch. I like the Fiskars Kangaroo Collapsible Garden Bag from Amazon, which makes it easy to gather and carry bulky loads of pine needles around the yard. Unlike leaves, pine needles don't need shredding and can be spread straight around perennial beds after the ground has started to freeze.

In dry or fire-prone areas, pine straw can be a fire hazard, so keep it at least a few feet (about 1 m) away from your home and other structures.

3. Chipped Branches and Evergreen Boughs

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Fall isn't the time to prune most shrubs, but dead wood and storm-damaged branches can be removed at any time of year. Rather than throwing them away, healthy branches can be chipped into a long-lasting winter mulch. If you generate a lot of woody debris, a LawnMaster electric wood chipper makes it easy to turn small branches into coarse wood chips for the garden.

Wood chips break down slowly, so they can protect perennial beds for more than one season. Store them in a loose pile until the ground begins to freeze, then spread them around established perennials, keeping the mulch a few inches away from stems and crowns. Avoid using chipped material from diseased trees or shrubs, as it can spread problems around the garden. Dispose of infected branches instead.

If you don't have a chipper, evergreen boughs are another excellent free option and need no preparation at all. Simply lay the branches in a loose crisscross over perennial beds after the ground has frozen. The boughs trap insulating snow while helping to shade the soil from the low winter sun, reducing repeated freeze-thaw cycles. Branches from a cut Christmas tree can be reused in exactly the same way once the holidays are over.

4. Ornamental Grass Trimmings

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Most ornamental grasses are best left standing through winter, as the foliage helps protect the crown from cold weather. Many gardeners wait until late winter or early spring to cut them back, but if a clump has flopped over or is blocking a path, you can trim it earlier.

A pair of Fiskars PowerGear2 Hedge Shears makes light work of cutting back tough, fibrous stems. Before using the cut foliage as mulch, remove any seed heads, as some ornamental grasses self-sow readily and any seeds left behind can sprout the following spring. Cut the stems into pieces about 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) long so they stay in place and allow rainwater to drain through easily.

Spread the chopped stems loosely around perennial beds after the ground has frozen. They'll provide a light insulating layer over winter before gradually breaking down into the soil.

5. Corn Stalks and Garden Cleanout

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Not all garden debris makes good winter mulch. Tomato and squash plants that suffered from blight or powdery mildew should go in the trash, as disease spores can overwinter on infected stems and leaves.

Healthy bean vines and spent annuals, however, can be chopped into smaller pieces and spread over perennial beds once the ground has frozen. They'll gradually break down while helping to protect the soil through winter.

Corn stalks need a little more thought. Larvae of the European corn borer (Ostrinia nubilalis) can overwinter inside them. Running the stalks through a mower can kill many of the larvae, but not all. Instead of using them as mulch, it's better to add chopped corn stalks to a hot compost pile, where they'll break down safely over the course of about a year before they're ready to use in the garden.

6. Finished Yard Compost

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Compost works a little differently from the other materials on this list. While it's excellent for improving soil, it's too dense and fine to provide much insulation on its own.

Spread about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of finished compost over perennial beds after the growing season to feed the soil over the coming months. Then top it with a looser mulch, such as shredded leaves or pine needles, to help insulate the soil and protect plant crowns through winter.

Before spreading compost, it's worth screening out any large sticks or woody pieces that haven't fully broken down. A compost sifter, like this Achla Designs sifter from Amazon, makes this quick and easy. Return any leftover chunks to the compost pile to continue decomposing before using the finished compost elsewhere in the garden.

When to Spread It – and How Deep

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Winter mulch goes on after the top inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of soil has frozen and perennials have gone dormant. In many colder regions, that's not until late fall. Don't spread it too early. An early layer can trap warmth and moisture in the soil, which is the opposite of what dormant plants need. It can also provide shelter for voles and other rodents that may chew on roots and bark. In areas with mild winters, wait until after a few hard freezes before mulching.

Spread about 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) of mulch over perennial beds. Shredded leaves settle as the season goes on, so it's fine to start with a slightly deeper layer. Keep the mulch 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) away from tree trunks and shrub stems to avoid trapping moisture against the bark.

In spring, rake the mulch back gradually as new shoots emerge, but keep it nearby for a week or two in case a late frost is forecast. Once the weather has settled, you can spread the partially decomposed mulch over vegetable beds or add it to the compost pile.

By the end of spring, much of the shredded leaf mulch will have broken down into the soil, ready to be replaced with another free supply from your next fall cleanup.

Plenty of gardeners treat October as cleanup month. The tomato cages come down and the squash vines get yanked, then the beds sit bare until spring. That ground still has plenty of use left in it, though. Cooler nights and a lower sun happen to suit a whole group of crops that bolt or turn bitter in summer heat, and quite a few can go in this month for harvests running from late fall into next spring.

Timing is where it gets tricky. Anyone starting a vegetable garden this late in the year still has options, but much depends on USDA zones (or your equivalent growing zone for non-Americans) and first frost dates. A gardener in mild zone 9 has months of planting weather ahead, while someone in cooler zone 5 might see the soil freeze solid by Thanksgiving – pretty different situations.

The solution is to choose crops that are suited to shorter days and chillier evenings. From leafy greens that thrive with fewer pests in fall to root vegetables that overwinter underground, and even hardy herbs that normally bolt in the high heat of summer. Plenty of options are available for anyone who wants to keep planting seeds in October and enjoy a home-grown seasonal bounty.

How USDA Zones Shape October Planting

One detail catches a lot of people off guard. USDA zones are built on average extreme winter lows, not frost dates, so two towns sharing a zone can see their first frost weeks apart – elevation and coastal influence skew things quite a bit. Zones still work as a rough guide to what can sit in the ground over winter. Frost dates tell when to stop sowing; zones hint at what survives after that.

Count back from the average first frost date using the days to maturity on the seed packet, then add a week or two. Growth slows as fall days shorten, and packet numbers usually assume summer conditions. Overwintering crops are a different story – they only need roots down before the soil freezes.

Cool-Season Vegetables to Sow in October

A few of these work across most of the country this month. Others only pay off where winters stay mild, so it helps to know the zone before buying seed.

1. Garlic

(Image credit: Getty Images)

October is prime time for growing garlic, with cloves going in a few weeks before the ground freezes in zones 3–8. However, planting times for garlic vary slightly by region. Down in zones 9 and 10, there's no rush – November or December works fine.

Break the bulb apart and set individual cloves pointed end up, roughly 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart.

You can plant grocery store garlic, but it is usually a softneck variety grown in mild winters, and it can struggle in colder regions, unlike hardneck garlic types. A garden center or seed catalog is the better source – you can pick up a flavor sampler organic garlic bundle from Botanical Interests, which includes two hardneck varieties and elephant garlic.

Up north, pile on straw mulch once the soil cools – 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) is typical. Freeze-thaw cycles can heave bare cloves right out of the ground otherwise. Harvest comes next summer as the lower leaves brown.

2. Spinach

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Spinach sown in early October across zones 5–7 often overwinters as small rosettes. Come spring, those plants are usually ready to cut weeks before anything sown in March. Zones 8–10 get the easier deal, with steady cutting straight through winter.

Bloomsdale Long Standing, available from Eden Brothers, is a lovely, rich heirloom spinach that performs well with fall planting, while Noble Giant produces huge sweet leaves that do not turn bitter as temperatures drop.

Plant seed ½ inch (1 cm) deep. Germination tends to suffer in warm soil, roughly 75°F (24°C) and up, and a warm spell in early October can push beds into that range. In colder spots, row covers, like these Agfabric ones on Amazon, or loose straw help young plants through hard freezes.

3. Radishes

(Image credit: Yevgeniya Shal / Shutterstock)

Small round radishes rank among the quickest crops around, going from seed to harvest in three to four weeks. That speed makes them a safe October sowing in zones 6–10, while zone 5 gardeners can sometimes squeeze in a crop during the first week or so.

The big winter types are another matter – most need closer to two months, so they're better started in late summer outside the South.

If the idea of classic white and red radishes bores you, then try black radishes. This resilient variety thrives in cool seasons across USDA Zones 3–9 when planted in well-draining soil and full sun. Pick up a pack of Round Black Spanish Radish Seeds at Botanical Interests.

When planting radishes, sow seed ½ inch (1 cm) deep. Crowded radishes tend to put everything into leaves, so thin seedlings to 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) apart.

4. Lettuce

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Lettuce tends to get filed under spring crops. Through much of zones 8–10, though, October is when its best stretch begins. Loose-leaf types may be ready to cut in six or seven weeks, and light frost rarely does much damage. A hard freeze is another matter – expect mushy leaves.

Zones 6 and 7 can pull it off with shelter – a cold frame similar to the Zenport folding cold frame at Lowe's can trap enough daytime warmth to keep leaves coming into early winter. Crack the lid on sunny days, though. It gets hot in there fast.

There are so many varieties of lettuce to choose from, and so it's worth getting a mix pack of seeds, like this Survival Seeds 10 Heirloom Lettuces Collection, from Amazon. Many can be harvested as cut-and-come-again.

Scatter seed thinly with barely any soil on top; often lettuces germinate better when a little light reaches them.

5. Fava Beans

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Snap beans rarely survive a frost. Fava beans are a different animal, a cool-season legume that can take a fair amount of cold. Gardeners in zones 8–10 can sow them anytime from October to December, and growth crawls along all winter before pods show up in spring. Zone 7 is more of a gamble – seed labeled for overwintering helps, but a rough winter can still set plants back.

Windsor fava beans from Botanical Interests are tasty and look pretty in beds. You can eat the young pods like snap peas.

Plant 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) deep with about 6 inches (15 cm) between seeds. By spring, the stems may be tall enough to need a stake. After the last pods come off, cut plants at the soil line and leave the roots where they are. They return some nitrogen to the bed for whatever goes in next.

6. Carrots

(Image credit: Christine Rose Photography / Getty Images)

This one mostly belongs to Southern gardeners. October-sown carrots in zones 8–10 typically need two to three months to size up, and a carrot pulled in January often tastes noticeably sweeter than a summer one. Cold soil pushes roots to turn some starch into sugar. Farther north, there usually isn't enough time before the ground freezes.

Organo Republic sells a 10 Unique Carrot Seeds Variety Pack on Amazon, which offers all the flavor variety you could want.

Seed goes in ¼ inch (6 mm) deep, and it's slow – sometimes two weeks or more to sprout. Keeping that top layer moist is honestly the hard part. A strip of burlap laid over the row helps, as long as it comes off the moment seedlings appear.

7. Herbs

(Image credit: kampee patisena / Getty Images)

From parsley to cilantro, starting an herb garden is a great way to fill your life with fragrance and flavor in the months to come. Get started with Home Grown's 15-Variety Herb Pack on Amazon; if you're worried about cooler temperatures, you can always keep them in pots on a sunny windowsill. Most, however, should cope in zones 5–10, making them ideal crops to plant in October.

October is best for planting cool-season herbs such as parsley, cilantro, chives, dill, and chervil, which can handle lower temperatures and may keep producing into fall. You can also plant hardy perennial herbs like thyme, sage, oregano, and mint in many areas while the soil is still workable. Some herbs will need winter protection in colder regions.

8. Snow Peas

(Image credit: Colin Temple / Getty Images)

Snow peas are cool-season vegetables that are quite frost-hardy, but don’t worry; they require no more work than growing other varieties of peas, making them one of our favorite low-maintenance vegetables to plant in October (particularly if you’re based in USDA zones 8 and 9).

Just make sure you get them in the ground about 6 to 8 weeks before your area's first fall frost to allow the roots to establish before a hard freeze – and mulch well, too. We’re fans of the Dwarf Grey Sugar heirloom snow peas, available from Eden Brothers.

Plant snow pea seeds directly into loose, well-drained soil about 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart, ideally beside a trellis or other support for the vines to climb. Choose a spot with full sun and keep the soil consistently moist. Harvest the flat pods once they reach a useful size, before the peas inside begin to swell.

9. Shallots

(Image credit: Getty Images)

One of the easiest vegetables to plant in October, shallots are very similar to garlic in lots of ways; all you need to do is sow sets or seeds, like the sweet, mild Zebrune Shallots from Botanical Interests, in loose, well-drained soil amended with organic matter, then wait until June or July to harvest.

Fall planting is generally most successful in USDA Zones 4–10, although gardeners in colder Zones 3–5 may need to add a thick layer of mulch or plant in raised beds for extra drainage and protection. In the coldest areas, spring planting may be more reliable.

10. Beets

(Image credit: MNStudio / Shutterstock)

Of course, beets are on our list of vegetables to plant in October; these tasty red crops can be grown all winter long in many southern states (though you’ll need a soil temperature of at least 40°F in the north).

Sow beet seeds directly into loose, well-drained soil around ½ inch deep, spacing them roughly 1–2 inches apart. Once seedlings emerge, thin them so the remaining plants have room to swell, or harvest the thinnings as baby greens. In warmer Zones 7–10, October sowings can provide a steady winter crop, while gardeners in colder areas may need to use row cover or a cold frame.

Most will be ready for harvesting after seven to eight weeks, although beet greens can be picked earlier. And, if you want to up the ante, try something like Organo Republic's 10 Rare Beet Seeds Variety Pack from Walmart; it should make for a truly spectacular display!

Fall is when grass directs its energy into growing strong roots, and using a lawn aerator now is the best way to boost growth for a much lusher lawn next year. It's more effective, even, than fertilizing it! You see, after this baking-hot El Nino summer, the soil beneath many of our lawns has compacted into a solid mass that’s very difficult for grass roots to penetrate. Not only that, but this compaction makes it tough for water, air and nutrients to seep into the soil and nourish those all-important roots. But don’t fret – this problem is easily fixed in 10 minutes with a lawn aerator.

Aerate your lawn in October and roots will grow far better, supporting greener, lusher grass. And the easiest way to do it is with a rotary lawn aerator. This handy garden tool is formed of a cylinder covered in sharp spikes, that's pushed around the lawn with a long handle. It punches hundreds of tiny holes into the ground, breaking up the soil structure and allowing vital moisture and airflow into the ground.

Every lawn will benefit from being aerated in October, especially this year to revive and repair grass after summer heat. Take advantage of the perfect root-boosting seasonal window in October and you’ll see impressive results above ground next year, making neighbors green with envy. And you can bet your bottom dollar this fall gardening task is being done on every golf course green around the country! Part of the Weekend Win series, aerating a lawn to encourage strong root growth is one of those quick and easy gardening jobs that brings a big reward, and is an essential part of lawn care.

Why Lawn Aeration is So Important in Fall

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It’s a little known fact that grass roots need air to breathe. While the blades above the soil surface take in carbon dioxide, tiny hairs on the roots absorb oxygen. It’s a process called cellular respiration and it's a vital part of how plants grow. Healthy soil is full of these little air pockets that are continually flushed out by rain, bringing in a fresh air supply. But when soil has been compacted after a summer of being walked on, which crushes these air pockets, the condensed structure can become impenetrable.

Without these air pockets, oxygen-deprived roots are weakened and start dying – which you’ll see with thinning grass above ground.

In October, cooling air has triggered grass to reduce its growing rate above ground but the soil is still warm enough to allow strong root growth, so plants are directing most of their energy underground. Regular rainfall also helps to fuel this below-surface expansion, and keeps the soil soft enough for fragile new roots to easily dive deeper into the ground. So, aerating a lawn in early fall provides it with everything it needs for strong root growth, resulting in a bigger root system that will make grass better able to cope with drought next summer.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you’re overseeding or reseeding bare patches – and who isn’t after this summer? – as part of your fall lawn care then aerating first means grass seed drops into all the punched holes for optimal germination and protection from birds.

Because soil structure also affects drainage, a compacted lawn can quickly become waterlogged in fall and winter. Roots that sit in water are unable to breathe and will drown and die, giving us another reason why October is a great month to aerate lawns.

Choose the Right Rotary Aerator For You

While you can aerate a lawn by pushing the tines of a garden fork into the ground, or using a push-pull aerating tool to remove small plugs of soil, by far the quickest, easiest way is to use a rotary lawn aerator.

There are different types of roller lawn aerators, so choose the one that’ll work best for you and your lawn.

Best for Budget: Standard Rotary Push Tine Aerator

AsterOutdoor Heavy Duty Rolling Lawn Aerator

A standard rotary aerator has rows of steel tines on a drum. This simple gardening tool will get the job done quickly without splashing too much cash. If you have an average-sized lawn and enjoy loose, loamy soil, this basic gardening tool is all you need.

Best for Ease: Spiral Rotary Push Tine Aerator

WaLensee Heavy Duty Rolling Lawn Aerator

Arranging the tines in a spiral formation means less energy is required to push the cylinder along, making this a smart buy if you’ve got a bigger lawn. If you don’t have much strength in your wrists, or your ground is rocky, then a spiral tine aerator tends to keep rolling if a spike hits a stone, with less jarring.

Some designs such as the WaLensee aerator bring the option of filling the cylinder with pebbles or sand to add weight, making it easier to push tines into heavily compacted soil, too. So, if you can stretch to this budget, it’s a good investment.

Best for Heavy Compaction: Rotary Spike Blade Lawn Aerator

Suchtale 18" Rolling Lawn Aerator With Steel Spike Tines

If you’ve never aerated your lawn before, have clay or silty soil with particles that get packed tightly together, or the ground is heavily compacted – perhaps by being regularly driven over – a spike blade lawn aerator is a better bet. The sharp star-shaped blades slice slits into the ground, creating multiple breathing channels.

If you’re planning on overseeding your lawn, this brings more seed-to-soil contact than a spike aerator does, for better germination. And, if your lawn is full of thatch, and you don’t have time to rake it out right now, these blades will easily slice through it. If you have a new garden, and especially a newbuild plot with fresh turf likely sitting on a layer of heavily compacted soil, aerating with the added power of a spike blade aerator – at least for the first couple of years – would be a wise move, and perhaps you could club together with neighbors to buy a communal lawn tool.

Many designs also have a platform that can be loaded with bricks, to add weight.

How to Aerate Your Lawn

Got the right tool? Let's fix your lawn to get greener grass, pronto! First mow the lawn as usual – there's no need to cut it any shorter than usual. One or two days before you plan to aerate your lawn, push a screwdriver into the ground. If it slides in, the ground is soft enough to be easily aerated. If not, water the lawn or wait for a decent rain shower. Wait at least 24 hours so you don’t damage a still-wet lawn, then push the rotary aerator all around the lawn, going over any well-used areas such as around the washing line where soil will be more heavily compacted, twice.

If you’re planning on detaching your lawn, get that done first. If you’re planning on overseeding or feeding your lawn, do that after you’ve aerated.

You can aerate your lawn every year in fall to reverse summer ground compaction. If you notice any spots where water pools through fall and winter, aerate those areas again in spring. Depending on your USDA zones, there are a few other considerations:

If You Live in a Hot USDA Zone

Hard-baked, arid soils can be nearly impenetrable post-summer in zones 8-11 so water your lawn extra well a day or two before aerating. This allows the tines to penetrate deeply without being damaged.

If You Live in a Cold USDA Zone

In zones 3-6, aeration is a vital part of October lawn care to avoid waterlogging through the colder seasons. Aerate as early as possible in fall so roots have ample time for growth before the first hard frost, and be careful the soil isn't saturated when you're working. Walking repeatedly across soggy soil can cause further compaction, so wait for a break in rainfall and soil is moist but not muddy.

Add this easy task to your list of gardening jobs in October and you will create ideal conditions for grass to grow its roots, just at the point of the year that it focuses its energy on this vital task. If you spot any bare patches, do this timely test for grub worms and eradicate them before winter. And then sit back, relax, and look forward to the joys of having the best lawn in town next year!

More Weekend Wins

This feature is part of the Weekend Wins series, packed with quick and easy 10-minute tasks and gardening tips and tricks that bring a big reward.

Get Xmas Blooms

Christmas cactus blooms are a delightful part of holiday decor when you trick plants into flowering on time.

Plant Pansies

Tuck cold-hardy pansies into pots and hanging baskets for months of easy-breezy fall-to-winter blooms.

Add lawn bulbs

Plant fast-growing bulbs in your lawn and enjoy drifts of lavender-hued blooms in a few weeks.

Revive Pots

Treat tired flowering plants in pots to some tomato feed and fuel another flush of fresh blooms.

Boost Roses

Remove suckers that are stealing energy from your rose shrubs and enjoy bigger blooms next summer.

Groom Grasses

Use a $4 dog comb to give ornamental grasses a quick groom and save yourself hours weeding in spring.

Coleus is invariably one of the big sirens in my summer yard. The last couple of years, thanks to a combination of the right spot and extended sunshine, they have ballooned in size to shrub levels of chartreuse, plum, chocolate and hot pink. Even as other plants start to lose their zing, coleus can dominate early fall with enduring lush folds of kaleidoscopic color. But as seasonal shifts bring on that distinctive evening chill, it’s time to start deciding what to do with your resident foliage queens.

While some of us grow coleus as single-season annuals for summer containers and border displays, you can easily keep those vibrant tones going once the first crisp autumn breeze rolls in. The secret is bringing yours inside and keeping them in the right place. Coleus is a tropical perennial at heart, so it’s more than happy to trade the chilly patio for a cozy, sunlit windowsill. Growing coleus indoors in the right way brings a pop of natural color that is high impact yet surprisingly low fuss.

Giving your coleus the best chance of surviving the chillier months comes down to a combination of smart overwintering and low-level propagation. If you have never overwintered outdoor plants before, don't worry. It’s super easy to transition, care for, and even multiply your coleus collection this fall. Here’s how to keep yours safe, warm, and thriving for non-stop color that lasts straight through to next year.

Why Bring Coleus Indoors

If there is one golden rule of growing coleus, it is that these sun-loving divas despise the cold. Waiting until the first frost is already on the grass is a gamble you’ll almost certainly lose, as chilled coleus stems can turn to mush fast. So long before winter frost turns your lawn crisp, be mindful of dropping nighttime temperatures. When they dip below 50°F (10°C) this needs to serve as your green light to start the indoors migration. In chillier northern zones, that rescue mission really has to start now, while in warmer climates you can enjoy outdoor patio color for a few more weeks.

Acting before the cold sets in ensures your plants make a smooth transition to indoor life without suffering thermal shock. You don't have to pick just one rescue method. To double your plant power, you can bring your standout potted coleus inside and adapt it as a houseplant over winter for instant color, while taking a few cuttings provides a compact, space-saving backup on a bright windowsill. Taking action while your coleus is still bursting with late-summer energy means your cuttings will root in record time, giving you a flourishing burst of bonus color.

(Image credit: Halbergman / Getty Images)

Leaf shape and habit can guide how you style them inside. Big, theatrical varieties like Kong, Wasabi, Henna or Saturn can look incredible positioned in tall decorative ceramic planters, as long as you give them a sunny window. Meanwhile, trailing or finer-textured varieties like Chocolate Covered Cherry or Strawberry Drop take well to hanging baskets, wall mounts, elevated pots or small windowsill arrangements. By making your move in early fall while the plant is still vigorous and actively growing, both the main plant and your new cuttings will adapt far more swiftly to indoor humidity and light levels, setting you up for a worry-free winter of color.

Moving indoors is a great time to replenish potting soil that will have taken a beating over summer. Prep a bag of potting soil, ideally a light, gritty, fast-draining cactus and succulent mix or something amended with perlite, such as Back to the Roots Organic Succulent & Cacti Mix, available from Walmart, to prevent moisture retention. Then you’re ready to give your plant a cozy transition with these tips to coleus care indoors.

Moving Coleus Indoors

(Image credit: Angela Kotsell / Getty Images)

Bringing your plant indoors requires a bit of thoughtful preparation to keep both the coleus and your existing houseplant family healthy. Start by giving your potted coleus a thorough health check a few days before the big move. Inspect the undersides of the leaves, stem junctures, and leaf axils for sneaky freeloaders. Common garden pests like aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites love to hide in crevices.

Spraying foliage with a gentle organic neem solution is the ultimate way to ensure only the prettiest leaves cross your threshold. Give your coleus a gentle spray with a hose, or a wipedown using a soft cloth and mild insecticidal soap. I like to use a neem-based agent like Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Organic Neem Oil Spray from Walmart for a quick spritz to combat mealybugs or spider mites.

Acclimatization is the secret sauce if you want to avoid the dreaded leaf drop. Coleus loves bright light, but moving straight from full patio sun to indoor conditions can give your friend a shock. So transition it smoothly by setting the pot on a bright, sheltered porch for a couple of days before nestling it indoors by your sunniest south or west-facing window. Gently topdress your coleus with some of your fresh indoor potting mix or a handful of organic compost to boost root insulation.

Finally, use some fine-tip pruning snips to trim away damaged foliage and leggy stems. Snips like highly rated Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon give clean, precise cuts to soft coleus stems. As well as a light watering, I like to apply a diluted stress-relieving liquid seaweed tonic to support root recovery as part of care for coleus plants indoors.

Taking Coleus Cuttings in Fall

(Image credit: Stephanie Jackson Gardens and Flowers Collection / Alamy)

It’s something I do instinctively now as the seasons shift – taking cuttings of key plants at the end of summer is taking advantage of their natural high. They are still loaded with growth hormones and strong enough to take a little transitional stress. Rooting coleus cuttings in water is so easy, it would be rude not to, and it can be a genuine joy to see those first roots curling into the glass. It’s clean, stress-free, and virtually rot-proof as long as you follow a few simple rules.

To start, use sharp, sterile precision pruning snips. To be sure your snips are sterile, give them a quick wipe with some isopropyl alcohol or neem oil. Take 4-6-inch (10-15cm) cuttings from healthy, non-flowering shoot tips. One of the key tricks to dodging calamity is to make sure there are no leaves allowed to dip into the water (which can quickly decay and foul water). Strip away the lower leaves, leaving 3-4 top leaves. Upright varieties shouldn’t need a hormone powder, but if you are propagating trailing varieties, add a little HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, available from Amazon, for a gentle catalyst.

(Image credit: Stephanie Jackson Gardens and Flowers Collection / Alamy)

Place your cuttings in jars, glass bud vases or glass propagation stations, filled with room-temperature tap or rainwater. You can use standard jars, but avoid wide rims. Go for something that allows for root growth while reducing the risk of stems sliding into the glass. I like the Yibot Propagation Station with Wooden Frame, available from Amazon, because it has a generous teardrop shape and the narrower top will keep the cutting anchored. Just make sure the bare stem nodes (where the leaves were removed) are fully submerged.

Set the glass on a warm windowsill that receives plenty of bright, indirect sunlight, keeping them away from chilly drafts. And don’t let the leaves touch cold window panes. Warmth is essential for rapid cell division, so keeping room temperatures around 65-75°F (18-24°C) ensures white roots emerge in as little as 7-10 days. To prevent stem rot, change the water every few days to maintain oxygen levels. You should see roots inside 7-10 days. Pot up when roots are an inch (2.5cm) long for gorgeous free plants to gift or hoard all winter long.

Indoor Coleus Care

(Image credit: Ali Majdfar / Getty Images)

Keeping your coleus thriving indoors all winter is surprisingly simple once you master a few natural rhythms. It’s all about balancing light, moisture and some gentle tidying to preserve those rich foliage colors. Position them where they can soak up plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. If you need to top up light levels, add a full-spectrum grow light to keep those neon patterns popping. For something that caters to both taller coleus plants and cuttings on shelves, the Barrina T10 Full Spectrum Standing Grow Light from Amazon is currently on discount and can be adjusted easily.

Watering requires a careful hand during the cooler months: think moist, not soggy. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings, maintaining good drainage and taking care not to let pots sit in waterlogged saucers. Growth naturally slows in winter, so hold off on heavy fertilizers. Instead, apply a diluted, organic houseplant feed or seaweed tonic such as Bloom City Seaweed Fertilizer from Walmart. Just do this once a month to keep roots strong without forcing leggy top growth.

Finally, help both potted plants and newly potted cuttings with routine pinching. Use your fingers or sharp pruning snips to pinch back the top growing tips and emerging flower spikes every few weeks, forcing the plant to branch out into a lush, bushy specimen in good time for spring.

Frequently Asked QuestionsWhy does coleus fail or lose its leaves over winter?

Leaf drop in winter is a cry for help, caused by cold drafts, poor sunlight, or soggy soil. Coleus are sensitive to chilly window glass and furnace blasts, so position them away from drafty doorways or radiators. Low light levels also trigger leaf shedding. Your plant is basically shedding foliage it cannot support. Keep soil lightly damp (not waterlogged) and ensure pots sit in bright, indirect light to keep foliage lush and firm.

When can you safely move indoor coleus back outside?

You can safely transition your overwintered coleus and rooted cuttings back outside in spring once the danger of frost has passed. Wait until night temperatures reliably stay above 50°F (10°C). However, before moving them outdoors, spend a week hardening them off by setting pots in a sheltered, shady outdoor spot during the day and bringing them inside at night to prevent sunburn and cold shock.

Can you grow coleus as an indoor houseplant year-round?

Yes, coleus makes a very adaptable perennial houseplant if provided with the right indoor conditions. To keep it thriving year-round, place it in your sunniest window (or under a full-spectrum grow light) so its vibrant colors stay bold and distinct (just watch out for chilly window glass). The key trick for long-term indoor success is routine pinching. Regularly snip off growing tips and emerging flower spikes to prevent the plant becoming tall and woody, forcing continuous bushy growth.

(Image credit: Catocala7 / Alamy)

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Who knew there were perennials to avoid planting?

I know, I know; fall is an undeniably great time to get these comback kids in the ground, as the weather is cooler, the garden centers are still full of tempting plants, and your new plant baby has the whole dormant season ahead to settle in.

If you are off to do a spot of fall perennial shopping, though, try to remember this: just because a plant is sitting happily on a garden center bench, it doesn't necessarily mean you should take it home. In fact, there is a long list of perennials to avoid, for those who don't want to give themselves a gardening-induced headache later on down the line.

7 Perennials To Avoid Planting This Fall

Why? Well, some perennials are a little too good at spreading. Others can escape the garden and cause problems in natural areas. A few, too, are simply much more difficult to control than their innocent-looking containers would have you believe. And that's particularly easy to forget when a plant is being sold as an attractive, pollinator-friendly or low-maintenance addition to the garden.

Now, I'm not suggesting that every plant on this list of perennials to avoid planting is universally terrible, or that you can never grow any of them. Indeed, in some parts of the US, certain species are perfectly manageable or even considered useful garden plants.

With that caveat in place, then, these are seven plants I'd personally research very carefully before putting them in the ground...

1. Butterfly Bush

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Butterfly bush is almost comically easy to sell to gardeners; it has beautiful flower clusters, attracts butterflies (including, likely, your birth month butterfly), grows quickly and gives you exactly the sort of summer-long color that makes you feel you've made an excellent garden decision.

The problem is that butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii) is non-native to the US and can become invasive in some regions, escaping cultivation and establishing in natural areas. There's another reason to think twice if you're planting specifically for butterflies, too, as butterfly bush might provide nectar for adult butterflies, but it isn't a host plant for their caterpillars.

That means there are often better choices for a wildlife-friendly garden. Try looking for native plants suited to your region, such as this swamp milkweed from Nature Hills, native asters, coneflowers, hyssop, and bee balm.

Make A Butterfly-Friendly Garden:

Save the Monarchs

Burpee Monarch Sanctuary Wildflower Mix

Early Bloomer

Fast-Growing-Trees.com Emerald Blue Creeping Phlox Plants

Posh Protection

Wayfair Gracie Oaks Estas Pollination Palace for Bees, Butterflies, and Ladybugs

2. Periwinkle

(Image credit: Alexander Denisenko / Shutterstock)

Periwinkle is one of those plants that can look almost too well behaved to cause trouble; its glossy evergreen leaves make an attractive groundcover, and its small blue-purple flowers are particularly useful if you're trying to cover a shady area where not much else wants to grow.

Unsurprisingly for seasoned gardeners everywhere, though, that's precisely part of the problem. Yes, periwinkle (Vinca minor) can spread beyond the area where it was planted, forming dense groundcover that can crowd out other vegetation. And once a groundcover has settled in and started creeping underneath shrubs, through borders and beyond garden edges, removing every piece can become considerably less fun than planting it was.

3. Mint

(Image credit: Joaquin Corbalan P / Shutterstock)

Now, before anyone sends me an angry email: I am absolutely not saying you shouldn't grow mint (I love mint!). What I am saying, though, is that I would think very carefully before planting it directly into the ground.

Mint is one of those plants that starts out looking wonderfully innocent. You plant a little clump, harvest a few leaves for drinks and cooking, and congratulate yourself on your excellent decision... and then it takes over your borders and you have to explain to your husband what you did when he wasn't looking. (Yes, fine; I speak from experience).

So my rule is simple: mint in a pot? Absolutely. Mint loose in the garden? No, nay, never! Hey, it's a good excuse to bag yourself a pack of four pre-potted mint plants from The Three Company Store, quite honestly.

4. Hops

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Hops might seem like an innocent choice for adding height and summer interest to the garden. But if you've ever planted one in the wrong spot, you'll know just how quickly those innocent-looking vines can become a problem.

Common hops (Humulus lupulus) is a perennial, but its fast-growing annual bines can reach impressive heights in a single growing season. The plant also spreads via its perennial crown and rhizomes, making established plants surprisingly difficult to keep contained. And that's where hops can become a headache in a mixed border. Give it a support and it will happily climb; give it a nearby shrub, tree or anything else it can wind around, and it may not be quite so easy to control (just ask my poor lilac!).

That's not to say common hops is invasive everywhere; still, its vigour can still make it a poor choice for a small or densely planted garden. Think carefully (and maybe plump for a pollinator-friendly Sweet Autumn Clematis from Nature Hills instead).

5. Lily Of The Valley

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Lily of the valley is another plant that can be incredibly tempting in a shady garden; its tiny white bell-shaped flowers are beautiful, fragrant and wonderfully old-fashioned, making it easy to understand why gardeners have been planting it for generations.

That being said (I know, I really do sound like a harbinger of doom), lily of the valley can spread aggressively through underground rhizomes, and it can be difficult to contain once established, making it one of those pesky perennials that can spread unexpectedly.

There's another reason I'd be cautious if you have children or pets: the plant is toxic if eaten. And, while that doesn't automatically mean you need to remove an established plant, it does make me think twice before introducing it to a garden where curious hands or mouths could come into contact with it.

7. Burning Bush

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Few shrubs make quite the same impression in fall as burning bush. The foliage turns a brilliant crimson-red, making it incredibly tempting when you're looking for a plant that will give the garden some late-season drama.

The problem? That spectacular fall color comes with a catch, as burning bush is an invasive shrub in parts of the US, where it can escape gardens and spread into natural areas. Its abundant fruits are particularly problematic because birds can eat them and disperse the seeds well beyond the garden.

Still, burning bush has been a popular landscape plant for decades and is frequently used in the gardening industry, even in spite of its invasive behavior is well documented. Instead, why not look for a native shrub that offers brilliant fall color in your region, like red chokeberry, viburnums, dogwoods, or fothergilla?

Shop Fall-Color Shrubs:

Southern Living Viburnum Copper Top Live Shrub in 2-Gallon Grower Pot

WAROON Chokecherry Plant Live for Planting

Brighter Blooms Red Twig Dogwood Shrub

All I am really saying is this: before you put that attractive new perennial in your cart, spend five minutes researching how it behaves in your state, because there's nothing quite so satisfying as planting a perennial in fall and watching it return year after year.

Just make sure it's the perennial you actually intended to plant, rather than the one that eventually decides to plant itself everywhere.

Amanda Seyfried has done something celebrities and the average person dream about and talk about ad nauseam but never actually get around to doing: she’s made her property completely disappear from prying eyes (in her case, nosy paparazzi, and in yours, nosy neighbors). Located in the middle of the Hollywood Hills, the traditional-style house, built in 1916, was just listed for $3.2 million.

It’s tucked away behind gates and tall hedges, despite sitting in one of the most densely populated, paparazzi-adjacent neighborhoods in the world. From the street, it’s basically wearing that invisibility cloak from Harry Potter, but inside, it’s a whole different story.

This is actually the power of privacy planting when it’s done correctly. Unlike most celebrity gardening “inspiration,” you can actually achieve this in your own garden, anywhere in the world.

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Start With a Fast-Growing Evergreen Hedge

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The backbone of this whole look is the tall, dense evergreen hedge that takes care of your privacy all year long, even in winter. In a warmer climate like Los Angeles, Indian laurel fig (Ficus nitida), available from Citronella King on Amazon, is exactly what you want for this type of screening. The iconic "Hollywood hedge", it grows quickly into a full, glossy wall that you can maintain at any height you choose.

Thuja Green Giant arborvitae, available at Trees.com, is the equivalent in a cooler climate, and it’s a real workhorse. Growing three to five feet every year, it has a deep green color that doesn’t turn yellow in winter and a height that gives you some serious privacy rather than the polite suggestion of it.

For boundaries where you don’t necessarily have all the space in the world, Emerald Green arborvitae, available from Plant Addicts, grows to about 12 feet and will stay narrow enough that you can plant it close to a fence line without worrying it’s going to take over the whole garden.

What’s key to all of these is planting in autumn before the soil gets too cold, watering them very well throughout their first summer, and having a little patience (Rome wasn’t built in a day). Most fast-growing hedge plants will give you a noticeable screen within 2 years (that may seem long, but I promise, time flies!)

Shop Privacy Hedges

CitronellaKing Indian Laurel Figs (Ficus nitida) – Set of 3

Emerald Green Arborvitae

Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae

Add Gates and Structure

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Hedges alone won’t give you the “Seyfried effect” (as I will refer to it from now on); you also need gates to carry at least half the load. A boundary that combines tall trees with a solid structure creates the feeling of a mental enclosure for you as well as a physical one. Even a simple timber or metal gate within the hedge line can take your property from exposed to private practically overnight.

If a full gate isn’t in your budget or it’s just not your thing, a pergola or arch over an entryway planted with lovely climbing roses or jasmine can give you something similar with a delightful scent on top. It’s a threshold that tells everyone passing it they are now in a separate world from the street.

Shop Privacy Structures

Winado Iron Arbor

Sunnibety Metal Planter Box With Trellis Privacy Screen

Arlmont & Co. Heavy Duty Birdcage Garden Arch Trellis

Layer the Planting for Depth

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A single hedge gives you the wall, and layered planting creates the garden, but you still need that middle tier so you don’t have any gaps. You have lots of flowering shrub choices, including viburnum, pittosporum, and Mexican orange blossom; these give you structure year-round, with seasonal interest as an added benefit.

Don’t forget about ground level, which can help fill in the bases of taller plants and keep stems from looking bare and leggy. Plants like ferns, ornamental grasses, and spreading perennials are a great choice. This gives the whole garden a natural, organic quality rather than looking like you had it installed.

Layered planting also makes a boundary feel further away when you're trying to create privacy. This is a useful trick if you’re dealing with a smaller, urban garden where the fence line is close, and the neighbor's windows aren’t far enough.

When done well, privacy planting doesn’t look like a defense mechanism from the world. It looks like a garden you want to be yours and don’t want anyone to see. In a world where most people have their outdoor space visible from 14 different angles, that’s about the most aspirational thing you can have.

You thought you might have trouble with your job. You thought you might have issues with your mother-in-law. But you never imagined you might have to deal with birds pooping on your car.

Stop taking it personally! Your car isn't attracting birds, and birds aren't targeting you. Birds tend to poop wherever they are whenever nature calls. But you can get your car out of harm’s way with a few preventive measures.

Let's explore five ways to stop birds from pooping on cars parked in your driveway, so you can spend less time cleaning bird poop and more time enjoying your outdoor space. These simple changes can help reduce the chances of your car ending up beneath your neighborhood birds' favorite perches.

Why Do Birds Poop on My Car?

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Whether you have a rusty old Volkswagen Vanagon or a shiny new Tesla, birds aren't picking your vehicle to dirty with their poop. In fact, it has very little to do with your car at all.

Birds have little control over when or where they poop. Most lack a bladder and a tight sphincter muscle, which means they can't hold back their waste. Instead, whenever the need arises, they simply defecate. If they feel the need as they soar over your patio, they poop on the patio. If they feel the need as they fly above your car, they poop on your car.

There is no one definitive way to prevent birds from pooping on your car. But you can do a number of things to reduce how often it happens. Here are my best tips.

1. Discourage Perching

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Is your driveway shaded by trees? Are you parked beneath electric wires or phone cables? Are there streetlights right above your parking spot? Birds like to rest and congregate in these places. And when a group of birds sits above your car for periods of time, they are likely to poop… on your car.

If overhanging trees are the problem, then trimming the worst offending branches could make a big difference. A telescopic pruning pole, like Fiskars' Extendable 2-in-1 Tree Pruner & Pole Saw with Rotating Head, available on Amazon, extends up to 12 feet, enabling you to tackle branches that overhang the car. If you want to cut your neighbor's tree, then make sure you ask them first.

If there's a ledge or flat roof area near the car that birds like to perch on, then consider fitting bird spikes, like these Bird-X Bird Spikes from Lowe's. As threatening as their name sounds, bird spikes don't harm birds, but they do make it uncomfortable for them to land.

And keep bird feeders and bird baths well away from your driveway. The less attractive you make the area as a place to feed, drink, or perch, the less time birds are likely to spend above your car.

2. Don't Wax Your Car

If your car is shiny and waxed, it can reflect light and appear like a pool of water from above. Water has a relaxing effect on birds, so they may be attracted to it. In addition, during mating season, male birds can get territorial and mistake their mirrored reflection for a rival male. He might mark his territory by pooping on it.

If the idea of a dirty car is too much to bear, you can buy tough, washable car covers that you can hose down every week, like this EzyShade Car Cover on Amazon. It comes in a wide range of shapes and sizes and, in addition to stopping bird poop, will also protect against snow and dust.

3. Scare Them with Sparkle

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This is an old trick, but it works like a charm. Dangle anything that could reflect sunlight near your parking spot. This might include old pie pans or CDs hung on strings, or even strips of aluminum foil. Moving, shiny objects reflect light and images, which can threaten birds and scare them away.

You can even buy reflective scare tape ribbon, like this one from MP Mypole Store on Amazon, and tie it around tree branches and other structures.

4. Use a Predator Decoy

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Might a bird mistake a plastic replica of a bird of prey for a real owl? It's possible. A decoy predator placed on or near the car will certainly make birds think twice before flying over your car. The Dalen Lifelike Great Horned Owl Decoy Bird Repellent, available on Amazon, is well rated and doubles as a charming garden ornament.

A couple of rubber snakes draped across the car is another option that's easy to set up when you get home.

The trick to using predator decoys is to move them every day or two. Otherwise, the birds will soon realize it's a fake.

5. Rethink Your Car Color

Do birds deliberately poop on dark or brightly colored cars? It seems unlikely. A few small studies have suggested that black, brown, or red cars may attract more bird droppings than white or silver ones, but there's no solid evidence that birds deliberately target certain colors. As for why, it's mostly speculation. I'm not convinced, so I'd call changing your car color a last resort – if you get really desperate!

Shop Bird Deterrents

Mp Mypole Bird Scare Tape Ribbon

Bird-X Bird Spikes Bird Repellent

Dalen Lifelike Great Horned Owl Decoy Bird Repellent