Organic Gardening News

Sometime in early November, a moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) on the windowsill might push out new growth. It could be a root, but it could also be the start of a flower spike – and that's why orchids in November deserve a closer look than they got all summer.

All of this happens right as basic orchid care gets harder, too. The days are shorter, and less light gets through the glass. The furnace has kicked on by now, drying out the indoor air, and the bark in the pot stays wet much longer than it did in July. Roots left sitting wet can go soft. Buds sometimes yellow and drop off before they open.

Thankfully, you don't need to do anything dramatic. Most of it is moving a pot a little closer to the window, feeling the bark before you water, or shifting the plant out of a draft. Changes made now, while spikes are just getting started, give a moth orchid a better shot at a full display later in winter or into spring.

1. Watch for New Flower Spikes

(Image credit: Anna Listishenko / Getty Images)

Cooler fall temperatures are the main trigger for flower spikes in moth orchids, and shorter days may help a little, so this is the month when plenty of growers start spotting them. The trouble is, spikes and aerial orchid roots look a lot alike when they first poke out. Look closely at the tip, and you can usually tell. Roots come to a bit of a point. Back from the tip, they're wrapped in a spongy layer that goes silvery when it's dry and turns green after you water. Spikes don't have that coating at all. They're green the whole way up, and the end is rounded and closed off, kind of like a mitten.

Before attempting to train a new orchid flower spike, give it some time to grow on its own first. When it's several inches long, push a stake into the bark close to the base. Angle it a little so you don't spear a root. Then clip the spike to it loosely, adding another clip higher up every so often as it grows. Orchid flowers don't always grow completely straight, so you may have more success with bendable stakes, like these Sproot stakes with clips on Amazon.

Flowers might still be a couple of months off, or longer, so Christmas blooms on every plant aren't a sure thing. Once buds show, quit turning the pot around – they'll grow toward whatever light they're getting.

2. Give Orchids Plenty of Light

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That shady spot that kept a moth orchid from scorching in July can be too dim by November. Low light can keep a mature plant from spiking at all, and it can also cause bud drop later on.

An east window is a good choice right now to meet your orchid's light requirements. South and west windows work too, as long as a sheer curtain softens the harshest afternoon sun – direct rays can still overheat buds and burn leaves.

Watch the glass, though. On a frosty night, a pane can get cold enough to damage a leaf resting against it, so leave some space between the plant and the window. Not every house has a sunny window open for one more pot, and a grow light can make up for that. This Sansi clip-on grow light clips right onto the pot.

3. Adjust Watering as Growth Slows

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Bark that dried out in no time over the summer can hang onto water much longer in a cool, dim room. Often, orchids get into trouble on a fixed watering schedule this time of year.

So how do you know when it's time to water orchids? Look at the roots. Silvery, whitish roots are dry, and green ones still have water in them. Lift the pot to feel its weight, too, since a light one is another clue

Clear plastic orchid pots, like these from Walmart, make it easier to check. Moisture meters are less reliable with orchids, but some growers like to use a Sustee Aquameter stick for a second opinion. It turns white once the mix dries out.

When it is time to water, give it a real soak. Take the pot to the sink and run room-temperature water through it till it pours out the bottom. Let it drain all the way. If any water is sitting where the leaves meet, tip it out.

Bark tells you more, honestly, than the calendar will. But bone-dry all winter is the wrong move. Moth orchids don't go dormant, and roots that sit dry for weeks can shrivel.

4. Use Cooler Nights to Encourage Blooms – Without Chilling Your Orchid

(Image credit: Nadya So / Shutterstock)

Kept warm around the clock, a moth orchid can go on growing leaves for months without sending up a spike. That seems a little backward, if you think about it, for a tropical plant. Cooler temperatures encourage flower spikes, and nights around 60–65°F (16–18°C) for a few weeks in fall can help. Daytime heat matters too, and a spot by a heat vent that keeps the plant much above 80°F (27°C) for long stretches can hold spiking back.

Cooler doesn't mean cold. Try to keep moth orchids above about 55°F (13°C), and don't park them by an outside door or a leaky window.

After buds form, forget about the temperature drop. Steady conditions matter more at that point. A cold blast every time the door opens can make buds yellow and fall before they open, and so can hot air blowing off a register.

5. Reduce Fertilizer, but Don't Automatically Stop Feeding

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Growth slows down this month, and slower growth uses less fertilizer. How much to cut back depends on the plant and where it's sitting. Under a grow light in a warm room, a moth orchid may still be making new leaves and roots. On a cool windowsill, it might barely grow at all.

Other types of orchids are a different story, and a few kinds need a drier, leaner rest through winter – check the type before you change anything.

Not feeding at all is its own kind of mistake, though, just a quieter one. Moth orchids cut off from fertilizer while spikes form or flowers open can end up with fewer blooms. A diluted dose of an all-purpose orchid fertilizer, mixed as directed on the label, keeps them going. One option is Better-Gro Orchid Plus, available at Walmart, a 20-14-13 formula sold in a 1-pound (454 g) bag.

Bloom boosters aren't the shortcut they sound like. Moth orchids fed a balanced formula will often produce more flowers than those given high-phosphorus fertilizer.

6. Protect Developing Buds from Dry Air, Drafts, and Pests

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Bud blast is the term growers use when buds turn yellow and fall off before they open. Heating season brings plenty of the usual causes. Dry furnace air is one. So is a radiator sitting too close, or a cold draft every time the door opens. Bark that keeps swinging from soaked to bone dry doesn't help either.

Fruit on the counter is a sneaky one, oddly enough – as it ripens, it gives off ethylene gas that can make buds drop, so keep budded orchids away from the fruit bowl.

Damp pebbles in a tray under the pot raise the humidity a little, like this Brussel's humidity tray with decorative rocks. In a very dry room, a small humidifier, like this compact Pure Enrichment MistAire Studio humidifier, adds moisture without taking up much space.

While you're watering, look the plant over for orchid pests. Mealybugs usually turn up on the spike or where a leaf joins the stem. Something that looks like a bit of white cotton stuck in there is probably the long-tailed mealybug (Pseudococcus longispinus) or citrus mealybug (Planococcus citri). Boisduval scale (Diaspis boisduvalii) looks nothing like that. You'll find it as small, flat bumps on the leaves, almost like they're part of the plant. Both pests weaken an orchid and spread to others nearby.

Wipe off the ones you can see with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. If they keep coming back, switch to an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil labeled for orchids. Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap, available at Walmart, is one option that targets mealybugs and other common houseplant pests. Test a small area first, then repeat treatment as directed on the label to catch newly hatched pests.

What Not to Do with Orchids in November

Routine orchid repotting can wait. It's easier on the plant when fresh roots are actively growing, often after flowering finishes, and root disturbance while a spike develops can set it back. The exception is bark that's broken down into mush or roots that have gone brown and soft – that plant needs fresh mix now, spike or no spike.

Leave healthy green spikes alone, too. One without buds yet may still flower, and there's no sense tossing away blooms you might've had. Cold glass is another one to watch on the coldest nights, so pull the leaves back if they're touching the window. Then there's the crown, where the new leaves come out of the center. Water that sits in there can cause crown rot. If that rot reaches the growing point, the plant has no way of making new leaves from the top again.

November Orchid Essentials

Sproot 16-Inch Bendable Plant Support Stakes (10 Stakes and 15 Clips)

Sansi Pot Clip-On LED Plant Light With Timer and 4 Brightness Levels

Brussel's 8" Humidity Tray With Decorative Rocks

Most of what an orchid needs in November is a little attention. Spot the new spike, lift the pot before you water, and notice the draft by the back door. Get those right, and there's a good chance of a long run of flowers sometime between midwinter and spring. That's not bad for moving a pot a few feet.

Fall-planted bulbs that flower in spring are surely the easiest, cheapest way to add color to your garden. Pop the bulbs into the ground in fall, then do absolutely nothing at all until green stems pierce the cold spring soil to light up your yard with fabulous flowers. From tulips to crocus, hyacinths to Dutch iris, there are plenty of showstopper bulbs you can still plant in November. As long as your ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged, all these beauties can be planted now, at a depth that's three times the bulb's height. If you live in a colder USDA zone and already past your first frost date, simply plant bulbs in a container in a sheltered spot instead.

When you’re planting bulbs in late fall, the secret to success is great drainage so they root rather than rot. That’s easily done by giving bulbs an inch-deep layer of grit to sit on at the base of the planting hole. You could fork out on horticultural grit, or you could simply use good ol’ poultry grit made of crushed granite like CZ Grain Chicken Grit, available from Walmart. You may need to protect tasty tulip bulbs from hungry squirrels, but then you can leave the rest to Mother Nature.

If it’s a while since you went bulb shopping, you’re in for a lovely surprise because plant breeders have been busy creating all sorts of wonderful new flower shapes and color combinations. From double-petalled tulips that look just like peonies to fragrant hyacinths in dramatic hues, these backyard blooms are a real springtime treat and planting them should be on everyone's list of gardening jobs in November. So let's skip straight to the good bit, shall we? Here’s my pick of dazzling spring-flowering bulbs to plant in late fall. Get the drainage right and all these will return year in, year out and with prices from 35 cents a bulb, there’s an option to suit every budget.

25 Crocus Striped Bird Bulbs

1 Allium Purple Gladiator Bulb

10 Tulip Tropical Sensation Bulbs

10 Tulip Crunchy Cummins Bulbs

25 Dutch Iris Sapphire Beauty Bulbs

25 Tulip Blueberry Snow Collection Bulbs

25 Tulip Amazing Parrot Bulbs

10 Tulip Dancing Passion Bulbs

10 Hyacinth Dark Dimension Bulbs

10 Tulip Carnival de Nice Bulbs

25 Allium Drumstick Bulbs

10 Tulip Copper Image Bulbs

10 Hyacinth Sky Jacket Bulbs

5 Tulip Clusiana Peppermint Stick Bulbs

10 Tulip Mariage Bulbs

25 Crocus Spring Beauty Bulbs

10 Tulip Double Gudoshnik Bulbs

25 Crocus Flower Record Bulbs

10 Tulip Strawberry Cream Bulbs

10 Hyacinth Purple Sensation Bulbs

Eden Brothers 25 Grape Hyacinth Latifolium Bulbs

25 Crocus Gipsy Girl Bulbs

25 Muscari Fantasy Creation Bulbs

20 Allium Blue Caeruleum Bulbs

I know, I know; poinsettias are absolutely the traditional choice for festive decorating, but there's another festive container plant that deserves a place by your front door this winter.

One of those underrated beauties that deserves its time in the spotlight, this holiday plant may not have the bold and colorful bracts of a classic poinsettia, but what it lacks in showy flowers, it more than makes up for in fragrance, evergreen foliage and year-round appeal.

In fact, if you're looking for a festive container plant that keeps on giving long after the holiday decorations have come down, it could be just the thing you're looking for (and then some!).

The Fragrant Evergreen That Beats Poinsettias

Poinsettias are practically synonymous with the holidays, and little wonder; their bright red, pink or white foliage brings an instant splash of festive color. Still, there's no getting away from the fact that their appeal is largely seasonal. They're tender plants, usually grown indoors in the US, and need warmth, bright indirect light, careful watering, and lots of TLC to keep them looking their best.

Once the holidays are over and those colorful bracts begin to fade, many poinsettias end up in the compost or trash. And, while it's possible to keep them growing and even encourage them to develop their colorful bracts again the following year, doing so takes a little effort.

Enter stage left, then, the beautiful sweet box (Sarcococca).

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Obviously, sweet box offers a rather different proposition, as this handsome evergreen shrub doesn't have to be replaced when Christmas is over. In fact, its glossy leaves provide structure and greenery throughout the year, while its winter flowers bring a welcome surprise just when the garden can feel at its dullest.

And it's not just about looks, either! Sweet box has a secret weapon that poinsettias simply can't compete with: its extraordinary perfume.

Shop Festive Plants:

POINSETTIA

The Three Company Poinsettia - Red

SWEET BOX

Perennial Farm Marketplace Sarcococca Humilis ‘Fragrant Valley’

CHRISTMAS CACTUS

American Plant Exchange Christmas Cactus

That's right, folks; sweet box produces masses of creamy-white flowers in winter, often tucked discreetly beneath its glossy leaves. They might not look particularly impressive from a distance, but get close and you'll discover why this shrub is so treasured, as they release a perfume often described as a combination of vanilla and jasmine.

It's surprisingly powerful for such delicate blooms, and on a still winter day, the scent can drift through the garden and greet you as you approach your front door. Especially if you opt for a variety like the Sweet & Lo™ Sweet Box from Proven Winners.

Once flowering finishes, sweet box can produce ornamental berries, which mature from red to dark purple or black depending on the species and variety. And it does all of this while standing in partial or full shade, no less!

(Image credit: iPlantsman / Shutterstock)

Although some sweet box varieties can eventually become quite substantial shrubs, its slow-growing nature also makes it a useful long-term container plant. (You won't be constantly battling to keep it in shape, for starters, although a light trim after flowering can help maintain a neat outline if needed).

Just be sure to choose a pot with drainage holes and use a good moisture-retentive potting mix. Pop it somewhere sheltered in partial or full shade, and water when the compost begins to dry – just like all container-grown plants, it will need a little more attention to watering than those growing in the ground, particularly during dry spells.

Of course, there's nothing wrong with a beautiful poinsettia, but if you'd rather invest in a plant that offers more than a few weeks of seasonal color, sweet box is well worth your time... not to mention a place in your heart. Not least of all because it's the sort of hard-working hero plant that continues to provide beauty long after the festive season has passed.

If your home and garden is full of those awkward shady spots where other plants might struggle, then, look no further! And if not? Well, still show it some love, I say – for a festive container with fragrance, character and staying power, sweet box is a very hard plant to beat.

It’s a phenomenon that spreads all across our country and it has already started this year. Most cities, small towns, event centres and households are turning their summer planters into beautiful winter display pieces using green tree tips, berried branches, large cones and vibrant stems of red, coral and yellow shrub dogwoods.

Collectively, they are called winter porch pots or winter baskets and they add wonderful value to our cities, neighbourhoods, and homes. At this time of year they stand up in our cooler temperatures but, to keep them looking great well into January, here are a few tips.

It all begins with soil that holds lots of moisture from winter rains and snow. If reusing your summer hanging baskets and planters, don’t remove the soil and roots. It is an ideal base to hold your winter stems. If we get our expected warmer and drier El Niño weather, you might need to spritz with a garden hose to keep the soil moist and the greens hydrated.

The type of greens you use, especially in drier areas, is important as well. The most popular greens are cedar, because of its semi-trailing habit and ready availability. It’s also the best filler in containers and baskets, efficiently covering up bare spots between other branches and spilling over the sides of the pots. Cedar does need to be kept hydrated regularly, however, to keep it fresh looking over longer periods.

True fir, or abies, branches are by far the most resilient, with the most popular variety being Noble Fir. It often has a touch of blue, adding richness in colouring, and the branches themselves are very symmetrical and even, making them ideal for so many décor items like wreaths and swags.

Balsam fir, abies balsamea, with its pleasant woodsy fragrance, is also a prized evergreen because of its dark green needles with the silver underside.

There are many other true fir varieties like Noble, Grand, Korean and lasiocarpa with unique colour patterns which stand up well in both severe cold and in dry, windy situations.

Pine branches also make a nice addition to porch pots. The most popular is the soft-needled white pine, or pinus strobus. Not only does it have a soft trailing habit, it too carries a touch of blue. Of all the greens it is the most perfumed and always adds an elegant touch to both baskets and pots.

Juniper stems are becoming increasingly popular for their spiky appearance and range of colours from gold, blue, green and even purple tones of winter colouring on some varieties.

Gold foliage certainly brightens up your pots this darker time of year and one of the best and hardiest cedar varieties is thuja Gold Ribbon with quite intense yellow colouring. It tends to lift the green and blues making them more visible and vibrant.

There are a couple of tree varieties that are seldom used and they take winter containers in a whole new direction. Japanese Hinoki cypress, with their slender, dark green spiralled foliage add a new element of design for a cool contemporary look. The uniqueness of these branches is so different from all the other native plants that they add a nice contrast.

My absolute favourite is another Japanese native, cryptomeria japonica Cristata. It is a rather large growing tree but produces the most unusual, twisted branch tips you’ve ever seen. These fasciated branch tips curl and swirl, looking for all the world like a rooster’s cockscomb. Talk about an attention getter. I like to see these used as focal points to truly draw attention.

All these branch combinations, well-designed, will look great but with a few thoughtful additions as finishing touches, great turns into amazing.

Number one are the hardy, vibrant, and long-lasting berries of deciduous holly, ilex verticillata. This is a winter shrub no garden should be without, because it now comes in many exciting colours besides red. Not only will it spice up your winter colour, it will also provide a natural food source for birds. In case no one lets you know, you do need a male pollinator for the female, berried plants. I love the fact that they stand up, just in soil, all winter long even in very cold temperatures. They are so much superior to the traditional broad-leaved holly.

Twigs also add an attractive finishing element. This is where shrub dogwoods shine with their brilliantly coloured stems. From shades of yellow, red and bicolour orange, they truly stand out. As the temperatures become cooler over the winter, these branches intensify in colour, making them almost electric in their vibrance.

Contorted willows add a certain sophistication to a greens arrangement. Now coming in traditional green, gold and red stems, they blend nicely into the mix. If the stems are a bit thicker they can support mini-lights which really bring containers to life on our dark winter nights.

The addition of larger natural cones or well-chosen ribbon or ornaments always add a festive finishing touch.

The beauty of all these combinations is the fact they last all late fall and well into late winter for long-term enjoyment with very little, maintenance. They also add great value and beauty to your home at a time when your landscape could certainly use a lift.

Related

• Brian Minter: How and when to prune so you don't lose next year's flowers
• Brian Minter: Want to make your fall bulb planting a big success? Here's how

Most of us do not have unlimited free time to garden. That’s why terms like “easy-care” and “drought-tolerant” can make a shrub so appealing. And if the tree characterized as “easy-care” is also gorgeous, it has a good chance of finding its way into our garden.

But it’s important to slow down a bit and figure out if that tree is... well, if it's messy. Messy trees can be easy enough to grow, but you may be signing yourself up for relentless cleanup – and some stunning ornamentals that light up your landscape may create far more work for you than you realize.

Honestly, the messiest trees might promise the world, but they are sure to make your life infinitely more difficult, perhaps dropping spiky seed balls or spreading thousands of unwanted seedlings. And garden stores know better than to stick a “messy” label on them.

Six Beautiful-But-Oh-So-Messy Trees to Avoid

Keen to swerve the cleanup? Well, Gardening Know How is here to help!

We’ve identified six of the messiest trees around (none of which happen to be your birth month tree, thankfully) and we’re here to rat them out. We’ll outline the features of each that will win your heart, as well as what they do to earn their “messy” status, plus an equally beautiful, less messy alternative. You're welcome.

1. Ginkgo

(Image credit: Alamy)

Ah the ginkgo. It’s hard to add this fabulous, ancient tree to the “messy” list given its incredible history; after all, its lineage dates back over 270 million years, and it is known as a “living fossil” because, for years, botanists believed that the tree was extinct. They found fossil evidence of its unique, fan-shaped leaves, but nary a living tree was found for years. Then, one day in the 1600s, a small grove was located in a temple garden in Japan and the world got ginkgos again.

These are wonderful, noble trees with leaves that blaze gold in the autumn. However, do not invite one into your landscape until you are assured that it is a male. Female ginkgos make the “messy” list because they drop oodles of fleshy, cherry-sized fruit that smell like rotting flesh when crushed. You’ll be cleaning up and holding your nose for a month.

Plant instead: a male gingko. There are cultivars that are all-male (like this beautiful Autumn Gold Ginkgo Tree from Nature Hills) and this is not the time to demand gender equality!

2. Eastern Cottonwood

(Image credit: Alamy)

Eastern cottonwood is a messy tree with a lot to recommend it. It is a fast-growing, deciduous tree, large and impressive, sometimes reaching 150 ft tall. It plays a critical role in the ecosystem, supporting 249 caterpillar species (including your birth month caterpillar). It is also lovely, with flat leaf stems that catch even the lightest breeze, causing the heart-shaped leaves to shimmer and rustle.

But look out below! Every year a female cottonwood produces a massive volume of tiny seeds wrapped in sticky white, cotton-like fibers that blanket lawns, clog gutters, and wrap around air conditioners.

Plant instead: the Chinese pistache. If you long for a large shade tree but want to avoid cottonwood's fluffy seeds, plant a Chinese pistache like this one from Brighter Blooms. It grows more slowly and fits in well in residential gardens.

3. Southern Magnolia

(Image credit: Dwbenjam / Getty Images)

Southern magnolias are the belles of the ball in the landscape, with their goblet-shaped, intensely fragrant white blooms and large, glossy leaves. The trees are evergreens that can grow above 60 feet (20m) tall and half that wide. They have a real presence in the garden.

But don’t fall for this pretty face until you learn of the work you will be required to do to keep your garden looking good. Southern magnolia trees shed, and they shed almost constantly. They shed their heavy waxy leaves; they shed their large seed cones; and they shed spent petals. Picking up in a year-round job.

Plant instead: flowering dogwood. If you love the Southern magnolia’s showy flowers, sub in a flowering dogwood (aka the tree quietly replacing magnolias everywhere). It is a more manageable size with lovely white “flowers” that are actually bracts.

Shop Flowering Dogwoods:

Expert Gardener 4-5' Dogwood Venus® in 1 Gal. Grower Pot

Nature Hills Nursery White Flowering Dogwood

Nature Hills Nursery Kousa Dogwood Tree

4. Bradford Pear

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The gorgeous cloud of white spring flowers has turned many a head, and the Bradford pear (despite the controversy surrounding it) is widely used as a street tree and even in gardens. It offers a graceful, symmetrical shape, pretty spring blossoms, and lively fall foliage.

However, best enjoy looking at this little flowering tree in someone else’s yard, because those white flowers that look like they were cultivated by angels actually smell awful! Some liken the odor to rotting fish, others to sweaty foot fungus. This happens when the tree is in full bloom, and the petals hold onto the smell as they fall.

Plant instead: a wild cherry (Prunus avium). Like the Bradford pear, a cherry erupts in clusters of stunning white flowers just as spring rolls in. But something like the Montmorency Cherry Tree from Nature Hills is a native and its blossoms smell like flowers instead of fish. Those flowers produce fruit that is loved by local birds.

5. American Sweetgum

(Image credit: Sergio Amiti / Getty Images)

Oh the autumn color you’ll enjoy with a sweetgum tree! This fast-growing native tree has lovely starry leaves that turn all sorts of fiery colors before they fall. Each leaf has five to seven lobes that turn orange, crimson, and purple in autumn. A sweetgum is a tolerant tree, accepting heat, drought, and soil compaction, as well as feeding birds in winter.

But sweetgum has its downsides: primarily, the hard, spiky "gumballs" that hurt bare feet and make mowing difficult. Yes, this lovely tree drops thousands of woody seed pods from winter through spring. They hurt your feet if you walk barefoot, and even with shoes on, they can trip you up and cause ankle injuries. They even destroy lawnmower blades. Yet they are really difficult to rake up.

Plant instead: red maple (Acer rubrum). If you want a tree for fall color and shade, a seedless red maple cultivar will treat you right. It offers similar shade and a brilliant red or orange autumn display and similar shade.

Shop Red Maple Trees:

American Beauties Red Maple Tree

Nature Hills Nursery Red Sunset® Maple Tree

Nature Hills Nursery October Glory® Red Maple Tree

6. Crabapple

(Image credit: MargJohnsonVA / Shutterstock)

What a mix! Crabapples offer spectacular spring flowers and attractive berries. They are small trees, usually under 25 feet (8m) tall, grown for their ornamental beauty and wildlife value.

However, if you get a messy crabapple variety, you may come to regret inviting the tree into your landscape. The large, juicy fruits fall readily from the tree and make the ground below a slippery mess. Having to trudge through the slippery rotting fruits is icky and even dangerous, but cleaning up cannot be called fun wither.

Plant instead: a “clean” variety of crabapple. You can select a fruitless variety like Spring Snow Crabapple (Malus 'Spring Snow'), with dense clusters of fragrant, pure white blossoms in mid-spring. Or, if you prefer, a Prairifire Flowering Crabapple Tree from Nature Hills, which promises to be far too tempting to local birds to ever spill a berry.

Of course, if you have the time to do the cleanup, then there's no harm planting a messy tree in your yard. Just be sure you're willing to roll your sleeves up and get cracking when things get mucky – and if not, one of our beautiful alternatives is definitely the better choice for you.

Happy planting!

Your greens look great on Sunday afternoon. Then a clear, still night pulls the temperature down hard, and by Monday morning the lettuce has gone dark and limp, and the chard leaves look soft and water-soaked. It's a rough way to lose a bed of winter vegetables you've been tending since late summer, especially when the forecast only mentioned a light frost.

Several of the cold-hardy winter vegetables keep producing through the colder months, and a greenhouse isn't required to help them along. Cheap covers and a little attention on cold evenings go a long way, and a good share of the materials are probably in the garage already.

A handful of frosty nights in November is a different problem from weeks of frozen ground. Light covers can usually handle the first. That second one takes layers – fabric over the plants, mulch over the soil, and sometimes a solid structure on top.

1. Cover Crops with Horticultural Fleece or Frost Blankets

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Row covers get sold as frost blankets or horticultural fleece, but it's the same thin spun fabric either way. Light, air, and rain get through. What it holds in is warmth rising from the soil overnight, usually enough to keep lettuce, spinach, kale, and Swiss chard a few degrees warmer than bare beds. Heavy 1.5-ounce (51g/m²) cover holds more heat. It also blocks about half the light, so keep it for cold snaps.

Heat leaks out at the edges, so the cover has to touch the ground all the way around. Boards, bricks, or smooth rocks hold it down. If it sags onto tender leaves, slide a few hoops under it (see section 3). A row or two fits under the Agfabric 1.2-ounce frost cloth from Home Depot, a 10-by-50-foot (3 by 15 m) roll.

2. Make Mini Greenhouses from Plastic Bottles and Milk Jugs

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Cut the bottom out of an empty gallon (3.8L) milk jug, and it'll turn into a mini DIY greenhouse for a young lettuce or spinach plant. Smaller seedlings will get by under a soda bottle. Shove the cut edge into the dirt and pile soil around it, or it'll likely end up in the neighbor's yard after the first windy night. Then check that no leaves press on the plastic.

Your jug's cap comes off, too. Sealed up, a jug warms fast on a sunny afternoon, and the seedling can overheat while you're still outside in a jacket. Lift the jugs off on mild, bright days and drop them back on at dusk. If you run short on jugs, reusable clear plastic bell cloches, like these Senwell cloches from Amazon, go on the same way. They come with metal ground stakes to keep them in place.

3. Build a DIY Low Tunnel over Vegetable Beds

(Image credit: Irina Khabarova / Getty Images)

Bend flexible ½-inch (1.3 cm) PVC pipe or heavy wire into hoops about 4 feet (1.2 m) apart over a bed, then stretch frost fabric or clear greenhouse plastic across the top. One tunnel can shelter a whole raised bed or a long row of greens. A Haxnicks fleece tunnel from Walmart comes with the steel hoops already attached and stretches to about 10 feet (3 m).

So should it get fabric or plastic? Fabric is the low-fuss choice, since air moves through it and it can stay on for days. Plastic gets warmer in the daytime and sheds rain, but after dark it's no warmer than fabric. Closed plastic can cook the greens on a bright afternoon, so pull up a side or open the ends. Wet, heavy snow can flatten it, too. Snowy areas need sturdier hoops set closer together, plus a brush-off after each storm.

4. Insulate the Soil with Straw or Shredded Leaves

(Image credit: Getty Images)

You can leave carrots, parsnips, and other root crops in the bed past fall. Heap straw or shredded leaves on the row, and many of them will keep until you want them. Soil under that pile doesn't freeze as deep or flip between frozen and thawed as often. Left in over winter, a parsnip is, honestly, a sweeter parsnip come spring. Dig the rest before they bolt.

Mulch only protects the soil, though – it won't keep exposed kale or chard leaves from freezing on a hard night, so pair it with a cover. Be picky about the straw, too. Hay and bargain bales can be full of weed seed. GardenStraw wheat straw mulch from Lowe's is filtered, with most of the seed screened out, in a 2-cubic-foot (57L) box.

5. Use an Old Window or Clear Lid to Create a Cold Frame

(Image credit: krblokhin / Getty Images)

An old storm window in the garage is halfway to a cold frame. Hinge it to the back of a bottomless wooden box, or right onto a raised bed. Inside, it can run 10 to 20°F (6 to 11°C) warmer than the open garden. Spinach, mâche, and winter lettuce do well in one. Backyard Discovery's cedar cold frame from Walmart has a lid that lifts on its own once the inside passes 70°F (21°C).

Glass is heavy and can break, so secure the pane firmly so a gust can't slam it, and sand any sharp edges. Windows painted before 1978 may also contain lead paint – not something you want flaking into a food bed. On sunny days, heat is the bigger risk, so prop the lid open. Tuck a sensor like this AcuRite wireless thermometer from Lowe's inside the frame, and check it from the house.

6. Move Container-Grown Vegetables into Sheltered Positions

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Pots give you an option a bed doesn't. Their weak spot is down in the roots. Those are usually far less cold-hardy than the leaves, and a pot doesn't give them much soil for cover, so a freeze reaches them faster than roots in the ground. Still, you can pick up a pot of parsley, kale, or salad greens and carry it somewhere better. Crowd them by a wall the wind doesn't hit and throw burlap or bubble wrap around the bunch.

Water them well the day before a hard freeze. Wet soil freezes more slowly than dry soil, it turns out. On the bitter nights, carry the smaller ones into an unheated garage or shed. Get them back out the next morning, or once that cold spell is over. Greens left in a dim garage for days can come out pale and leggy.

Which Winter Vegetables Actually Need Frost Protection?

Kale, collards, spinach, parsley, and cabbage can take a lot. Frost under 28°F (-2°C) usually doesn't bother them, but when the forecast calls for low 20°s F (around -6°C), cover them anyway. Lettuce, Swiss chard, beets, and carrots aren't quite as tough. Damage can show up in the mid- to upper 20°s (about -4 to -2°C). Mâche is the odd one out among salad greens and holds up better than lettuce. Beans, peppers, and tomatoes can't take even a light frost.

These ratings aren't fixed, though. Two varieties of the same crop can differ in hardiness, and an established kale plant usually gets through a freeze in better shape than one transplanted last week. Plants that have had several weeks of slowly cooling weather also hold up better than ones hit by a hard freeze after a warm spell. Watch how long the cold lasts, not just how low it'll go.

Winter Vegetable Essentials

Senwell-Ka 40-Pack Garden Cloches

Tierra Garden Haxnicks Giant Easy Fleece Tunnel With Steel Hoops

Backyard Discovery Aggie 4x2' Cedar Wood Cold Frame Mini Greenhouse

A greenhouse would be nice, sure, but straw over the carrots, fabric over the kale, and a couple of milk jugs over the late lettuce will carry a garden a long way. Keep a frost blanket folded by the back door. The night the forecast suddenly drops, it'll be the first thing you reach for.

Folk have long discussed why backyard birds peck windows in fall, and once Google got involved, plenty more possible causes were added to the pile. Now research and observations from bird experts have revealed the real reasons behind this bizarre behaviour, and you may be surprised to learn what they are.

Some of the most common speculations about why birds tap windows include attempting to get your attention when it's time to refill feeders, impending bad news, small songbirds wanting to come into the warm, and a message from a passed loved one. Avian experts, however, have put forward reasons based on cold, hard data, and they provide a fascinating insight into fall bird behaviour.

Whether you find the tap-tap-tapping of your beneficial garden friends endearing or highly annoying, once you understand the real reasons avian experts say are behind window pecking, you can better support your garden birds in fall. Understanding the likely causes will also help you decide if should take action to stop the window tapping to save birds from harm, and save your sanity, too.

Why Birds Peck Windows in Fall1. Hunting for Insects

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As temperatures decrease in fall, insects become more scarce, many birds are forced to forage for food in new areas. Because glass retains heat from the sun as well as windows allowing some of a home’s heat to escape, any tiny gaps in frames become welcoming nooks for insects to enter diapause (similar to hibernation) – and consequently, one of those spots hungry birds may favor. You might think modern windows don’t offer much space for critters to hole up in, but those drainage weep holes and sliding tracks provide plenty of opportunities. Spiders also use window corners to spin insect-catching webs and lay eggs, offering further protein-rich food to the bird buffet.

According to the British Trust for Ornithology (BTO), there’s a rise in birds pecking at windows for food in fall and winter, and in particular by the tit family which includes chickadees and titmice. The organisation also cites that birds may pick at traditional window putty as it’s made with fish or linseed oil, both a valuable source of energy in colder months.

2. Confusion Caused By a Low Sun Angle

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Research carried out by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology found that the lower angle of sunlight hitting windows in fall significantly increases how reflective the glass is. Aside from birds having no concept of what a window is, our feathered friends see differently to us. Most birds have eyes on the sides of their heads to give them almost-360° vision, and while that’s highly useful for spotting potential predators, it means their forward vision isn’t as good as ours. So, reflections in windows are easily interpreted as extra habitat and when birds encounter the glass – which in fall, especially, can appear to them as an invisible barrier – they may peck at it repeatedly to investigate.

3. Young Birds Learning About Their Environment

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Fall is when juvenile birds disperse, and these inexperienced youngsters have a lot to learn about the world around them, and much spatial awareness still to develop. Data published by the American Bird Conservancy and the US Fish & Wildlife Service shows a strong rise in what they term ‘glass interactions’ in fall. While many of these will be window collisions caused by mirror-like glass and navigational error, some will be window pecking led by curiosity as birds investigate their surroundings.

4. Resident Birds Being Territorial

(Image credit: Getty Images)

While territorial behaviour among most of our feathered friends peaks in spring, many resident birds claim their territory in fall, according to the National Audubon Society. Northern cardinals, non-migrating American robins, northern mockingbirds, towhees and bluebirds are all highly territorial through fall into winter. And there's a very good reason for this, because as summer broods disperse, thousands of juvenile birds search a new territory. In the face of this competition, existing populations fiercely defend their established territories – especially if it contains a valuable food source such as a garden shrub hung with berries birds love through winter!

With windows becoming mirror-like in the low fall sun, dominant birds can attack their own reflection, mistaking it for a competitor. So this is a common reason why birds tap windows in fall as well as spring.

How To Stop Birds Pecking at a Window

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Whether you have a towhee aggressively pecking at your patio doors or a chickadee tap-tapping your bedroom window at all hours, now you understand what’s behind this behaviour, you can do something about it. Gentle pecking for food harms neither bird nor human, so it’s safe to ignore this low-level behaviour. But more insistent pecking at a window, fighting imagined aggressors or attempting to break through an invisible barrier is not just highly annoying to us but harmful to birds, damaging beaks and wasting valuable energy.

Taking action to stop birds pecking windows involves making glass more visible, or keeping birds away from it in the first place. That means these solutions will also reduce the risk of feathered friends flying into windows and injuring themselves. By working out the likely reason behind a bird tapping on your window, you can choose the method that will be most effective.

1. Move Houseplants Off Windowsills

Your first step to stop birds tapping windows is to move any houseplants away from windows that are being targeted. To a young bird, a windowsill full of greenery can look like inviting habitat or contribute to the illusion that this could be a continuation of their flightpath.

2. Try a Strip of Reflective Tape

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A quick and cheap solution if the targeted window opens is to shut a length of double-sided reflective bird scare tape like this from Amazon in it. When the tape blows in the wind, its holographic surface casts erratic patterns of ultraviolet light which most birds perceive as a threat. For resident birds in search of tasty insects, this may be enough for them to deem that window an unsafe zone.

3. Stencil Glass With Oil-Based Marker Pens

While the go-to for making windows more visible to birds and preventing collisions is decals, they're only effective if the gaps between them are narrow enough. A few decals dotted about on a large window are next to useless as birds will likely perceive the areas between them as possible flightpaths, just as they do the gaps between branches in woodland.

A far simpler, more effective and still-stylish alternative is to create a grid of dots around 2 inches apart across the entire window. Use a white oil-based permanent marker like a Sharpie Medium Point Paint Marker, available from Amazon, and for a professional result, use a stencil template. You could make your own by punching holes in cardboard or save yourself the trouble with an Avi-Dot Bird Saver Window Stencil from Etsy.

4. Use Collision Tape

Another effective way to help birds see house windows as a barrier is to stick on clear collision tape like CollidEscape, available from Amazon. To be effective against bird strikes, and therefore cut down on curious birds pecking at what they perceive as an invisible wall, you’ll need to position the tape in vertical or horizontal stripes with the edges no more than 2 inches apart. If you have feathered friends that often peck at a particular part of a window, this is a useful method as you can reduce the gap between strips here.

5. Create a Temporary Cardboard Barrier

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If a particular bird still persists in pecking at a window, creating a temporary cardboard barrier can help break the habit.

6. Use a Permanent Reflective Deterrent

If you have a problem with a particularly territorial or bigger bird such as a woodpecker or seagull, a final resort is to fix a permanent deterrent near to the targeted window. Wind-powered metal spinners throw out unpredictable flashes of light, visually confusing birds to create an area they perceive as unsafe. Windmill spinners like these Stainless Steel Bird Deterrent Devices by Ebern Designs on Wayfair mean you don’t have to compromise on garden style.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Backyard birds need our support more than ever once fall turns to winter, whether that's preventing a bird bath freezing over to preserve their water supply, saving up kitchen scraps to feed feathered friends, or making sure smaller songbirds get a fair share of food. Now you understand why birds tap on windows in fall, you can decide whether or not to ignore the behaviour or take action for your and the bird's benefit.

Every household generates a mass of organic kitchen waste, from morning coffee grounds to evening fish bones. Quite often, thanks to social media and online forums, we’ll hear about some novel way to use key scraps to help plants. These quirky DIY tricks can seem so compelling and easy (and also free) that it’s tempting to toss scraps straight into the potting soil around your plants.

A few kitchen scraps can help a little, and some can actually help with fertilizing houseplants, once they're prepared the right way. But that last bit is important. You need to make sure you are using the right kind of scraps, and that you have prepared them so they can be absorbed or processed well. Fail to do this, and there’s a chance that helpful impulse could result in fuzzy mold and tiny gnats.

The kitchen scraps I’ve rounded up here can help to supply trace minerals, organic matter, and subtle soil-structuring benefits to your potted greenery. These scraps all need prep first, though, whether that's drying, grinding or some time in a compost pile or worm bin. If you want to unlock their gentle benefits, this is a good time to get things moving. Houseplants slow down as the days get shorter, so they don't need much extra food until spring – giving you time to turn some trash into treasure.

Prepping Scraps for Houseplants

When it comes to the best scraps for houseplants, preparation and application are key. Never dump wet, chunky food scraps onto the soil surface, as they can trap stagnant moisture and invite houseplant pests. Instead, use one of these preparation methods: air or oven-drying, grinding into fine powder, brewing, or indoor composting with a worm bin.

Indoor composting bins don’t require lots of knowledge or experience these days, and you can pick up units that make composting a highly beneficial background activity. If you’re interested in a compact unit for indoors, the Original VermiHut System, available from Amazon, is a neat and super-easy way to turn scraps into rich, houseplant-safe worm castings. Once your scrap of choice has been treated, you can gently work small amounts into the top inch (2.5cm) of potting mix.

(Image credit: Katherine Heubeck / Shutterstock)

Prioritize pot hygiene with any scraps you do try out. Check that every container has unobstructed drainage holes and keep a close eye on treated pots for 2-3 weeks. If you spot any white fuzz, scrape it off and allow the top layer to dry. Remember that kitchen scraps are meant to be gentle supplemental boosters, not replacements for quality potting soil and a balanced seasonal feeding routine. Here are 6 scraps you can safely try with your houseplants – plus, which scraps to leave in the bin.

1. Used Coffee Grounds

(Image credit: Kinga Krzeminska / Getty Images)

The buzz around coffee grounds for houseplants is mostly about nitrogen (along with trace potassium and magnesium). That nitrogen is tied up in organic matter, though, and soil microbes will need to break it down before the roots can use it. Select plain, unflavored Arabica or Robusta grounds, and avoid flavored coffees containing synthetic oils, syrups, or spices.

Never spread damp grounds thickly over indoor soil, as they can mold and dry into a crust that repels water. Instead, spread used grounds on a baking sheet to dry, then blend a small handful (no more than 5-10% of total volume) into a fresh potting mix, or process through an indoor worm bin first. Contrary to myth, brewed grounds will not reliably acidify your potting soil, as brewing pulls a good share of the acid into your cup. For a good potting mix, buy Espoma Organic Potting Mix from Walmart.

2. Eggshells

(Image credit: LN team / Shutterstock)

Eggshells are mostly calcium carbonate, and plants need calcium to strengthen cell walls and support healthy new leaf development. But don’t toss large shell fragments into a houseplant pot. Calcium carbonate dissolves at a glacial pace, especially in neutral or alkaline potting mixes. Instead, rinse away the egg white, let shells air-dry for 48 hours, and pulverize them into a fine powder.

For grinding, use a dedicated grinder, a pestle and mortar, or a processor like the Cuisinart Mini Food Processor from Amazon, which is compact and super-fast. For a faster mineral release, soak the shell powder in a splash of mild lemon juice or vinegar for 24 hours. The mild acid reacts with the calcium carbonate to create plant-available calcium citrate. Just remember to dilute before applying. Work a light pinch into potting soil once or twice a year, skipping acid-loving plants like African violets, as the calcium can gradually raise soil pH.

3. Banana Peels

(Image credit: Ica Photo / Shutterstock)

Banana peels (along with closely related plantain peels) are rich in potassium, which regulates water uptake and boosts flowering. They also contain trace phosphorus and magnesium. However, burying chunks of raw banana or plantain peel in your houseplant’s potting soil is a really bad idea. Dense, sugary peels rot sluggishly in pots, attracting fruit flies and encouraging root-rotting pathogens.

Chop banana (or plantain) peels into small pieces and process in a compost bin or worm farm until crumbly, before blending into potting mix. Alternatively, dehydrate clean peels in a low oven until crispy, grind them into a powder, and sprinkle a spoonful into the soil. While soaking peels in water for 48 hours creates a mild banana tea, it leaches only trace nutrients. If you’re looking for targeted liquid feeds, you’re better off with a balanced fertilizer such as Espoma’s Organic Indoor 2-2-2 Plant Food, available from Walmart, and adding it during spring and summer growth.

4. Used Tea Leaves

(Image credit: VICUSCHKA / Getty Images)

Plain, steeped tea leaves offer gentle organic matter, trace nitrogen, and mild tannic acids that subtly condition soil structure and improve moisture retention. However, you need to stick to unflavored black, green, white, or pure herbal teas like chamomile or rooibos. And make sure they are steeped without milk, sugar, or honey. Avoid heavily spiced chai blends or artificially flavored teas, as the essential oils can irritate delicate root hairs.

Tear open used tea bags and discard the pouch, as most tea bags contain plastic fibers. Never pile wet leaves on top of the soil, as they can encourage gnats and mold. Instead, spread the loose leaves on a paper towel until dry and lightly fork a teaspoon into the topsoil, or drop them into a worm bin. Used gently once a month in spring and summer, they give moisture-loving tropicals like ferns, calatheas, and pothos a gentle lift. If you don’t have any compost going, Home Depot carries Noble Worm Organics Worm Castings, and a little of that does the same job.

5. Veggie Scrap Tonic

(Image credit: Svetikd / Getty Images)

Pungent alliums like onions and garlic, spicy peppers, or fibrous potato skins should never be buried straight into pots. They can ferment and summon fungus gnats. However, you can safely capture minerals by making a liquid tonic from key vegetable scraps. Save the cooled, unsalted water left over from boiling or steaming nutrient-dense vegetables like carrots, potatoes, broccoli, or leafy greens. Use this mineral-rich water at room temperature instead of watering once or twice a month, discarding any leftovers after 24 hours so bacteria cannot multiply.

Alternatively, you can route clean trimmings through an indoor worm bin. Bury solid scraps like carrot peelings, lettuce cores, and squash trimmings beneath damp bedding in a compact indoor worm bin. In 8-12 weeks, red wigglers can convert them into odorless vermicompost. You can buy Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm Live Red Wigglers from Amazon for hardworking composting worms to transform carrot peels and used greens into nutrient-rich castings. Then add to plants, applying 2 tablespoons (30 ml) per quart (0.95 L) of potting mix around the base, and water in.

6. Rice Water

(Image credit: ZenShui Laurence Mouton / Getty Images)

Rinsing uncooked white, brown, or jasmine rice leaves behind cloudy, starch-rich water containing trace amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK) along with B vitamins. While scientific evidence shows its direct fertilizer value is modest and varies widely by grain type, those gentle starches can act as a mild prebiotic snack for beneficial soil microbes in healthy potting mixes. However, use only fresh, unsalted and unseasoned rinse water (or cooled, unsalted boiling water).

Apply it the same day in place of a standard watering once a month. Never store rice water in jars to ferment. DIY fermented rice water quickly breeds foul-smelling bacteria. Likewise, avoid salted pasta water. While plain starchy pasta water is harmless, even a pinch of cooking salt accumulates in closed pots and can quickly reach a level where it scorches roots. If you’re after a good indoor watering can, choose something with a gooseneck spout that can target the base of the plant, such as the Megawodar Copper Watering Can from Amazon.

Scraps You Should Avoid

(Image credit: JannHuizenga / Getty Images)

Even with careful prep, certain kitchen leftovers need to be kept far away from your indoor garden. Meat, fish, and dairy products are the big ones. Oily and greasy foods are also non-starters. Animal proteins and fats rot rapidly in warm indoor temperatures, creating unbearable odors, attracting flies, and coating soil particles in a waterproof film that suffocates roots.

Salty and sugary leftovers are equally destructive. Salted pasta water, soup broths, and seasoned cooking liquids leave behind sodium deposits that build up in closed pots, drawing moisture out of roots and leaving foliage with crispy brown leaf tips. Meanwhile, sugary sauces, fruit juices, and citrus rinds trigger fungal growth and attract household ants.

When monitoring your houseplants in the weeks after adding your kitchen scraps, keep a close eye out for fuzzy molds and fungus gnats. Used early, you can add sticky traps like LightsMax Dual-Sided Yellow Sticky Traps from The Home Depot to manage adult gnats and other flying pests.

(Image credit: Cavan Images / Shutterstock)

By drying, grinding, or brewing, or letting an indoor worm bin do the heavy lifting first, you can enrich your potting mix sustainably and give your houseplants a gentle helping hand with ingredients destined for the trash.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Many leafy plants we now grow as houseplants evolved in hot and humid rainforests which is why, now fall’s here and the heat’s turned on, the dry air in our homes is leading to less-than-lovely foliage. So, if you're wondering how to keep houseplants healthy in winter so you can enjoy lush, glossy leaves, you're not alone. Thankfully, a humidity tray is the quick and easy DIY solution that will speed your houseplants back to happy in time for the holidays, and it won't cost you a dime.

It’s a cruel fact that it’s the plants with the biggest or boldest leaves that struggle most in the dry air of our winter-heated homes: adapting to life in a rainforest is exactly why the foliage is so fabulous in the first place. Beneath a dense forest canopy, sunlight is a precious commodity so some plants like Elephant Ear (Alocasia) grow huge leaves to catch as much light as possible. Others such as peace lilies has foliage densely packed with chlorophyll to absorb as much of the scarce light as possible, and that's what creates their intense, deep green hue. Some like Calathea have purple or red undersides to their leaves precisely so that precious light gets bounced back into the leaf.

So, if you want to enjoy these dramatic leaves at their best, you have to provide these houseplants with the humidity level they need to flourish. Any plant likely suffering from a lack of humidity at this time of the year is easy to spot, starting with any houseplants with brown leaf tips or edges, smaller or discolored leaves, or slow growth. Now, to restore these ailing houseplants to lush, glossy growth, you could treat them to a small humidifier like the Homedics Humidifier from Amazon. Or you could simply DIY a humidity tray with stuff you’ve probably already got in your backyard.

How to DIY a Humidity Tray

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A humidity tray, also called a pebble tray, is a shallow container that’s wider than the plant pot it serves, filled with small pebbles and water. The plant pot sits on the pebbles above the water level so instead of water being pulled up into the potting soil, it evaporates into the air. The higher the heat in your home, and so the drier the air, the more water evaporates to create a humid microclimate around your houseplant.

An old plant saucer is perfect, or if you’d like something more decorative for your houseplant display, look in your kitchen cupboards for a deep plate or shallow dish. Fill this with fine gravel or small pebbles – pea gravel is perfect and you can buy bagged pea gravel pebbles from Home Depot very cheaply if you don’t have a gravel path or driveway to raid.

Then simply stand the plant pot on top of your DIY humidity tray and keep the water topped up, making sure the water level stays below the base of the pot.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Grouping your houseplants together will also help to raise the humidity. Clustering plants together creates an indoor microclimate because the water vapor that’s lost through the leaves diffuses more slowly – and this effect is amplified if even one or two of the grouped houseplants have humidity trays.

Which Plants Need Humidity Trays the Most?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Houseplants that have evolved to live in the damp environments of rainforests and woodland are most sensitive to humidity. These common houseplants all thrive in 55-80% humidity and will benefit from a DIY pebble tray:

• Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata)
• Maidenhair ferns (Adiantum)
• Elephant ear plants (Alocasia and Colocasia)
• Prayer plants (Maranta)
• Calatheas (Calathea)
• Anthuriums (Anthurium)
• Nerve Plants (Fittonia)
• Orchids (including Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium)

If you grow any of these houseplants, then a $5 room thermometer like this from Amazon that measures humidity levels as well as temperature, and records the minimum and maximum levels in the past 24 hours, is a really useful tool. You’ll be able to see exactly what the humidity levels are and, if they’re too low, take action before the plant tells you it’s an issue with brown leaf tips. Already made the plant a pebble tray? To raise the humidity further, simply DIY a wider one to increase the surface area of water available to evaporate.

What Other Plants Benefit From a Humidity Tray?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Many more adaptable houseplants won’t be as dramatic about a less-than-ideal humidity level, but add a little more moisture to the air and they’ll grow faster and produce bigger leaves with a better color and shine. Making a DIY pebble tray will help all these plants to flourish:

• Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum)
• Monsteras (Monstera deliciosa)
• Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum)
• Snake plants (Dracaena or Sansevieria)
• Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
• Philodendrons (Philodendron)

These plants all thrive in humidity levels of 40-60%. While that's likely within the average humidity of a home in summer, it's a different story in winter. Because cold air can't hold as much water, and home heating dries it further, home moisture levels typically drop to 20-40%. While that lack of humidity isn't enough to kill these adaptable plants, it will certainly prevent them from looking their best.

10" Plant Saucers

6 Wave Plant Saucer, More Sizes Available

Perfect Pebbles

Mini Marble Chip Landscape Rock, 0.5 cu ft Bagged

No-Splash Watering

Stainless Steel Watering Can With Long Spout

What are the Signs My Houseplant Needs a Humidity Tray?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Leaves with brown tips and outer edges are the most common sign that a houseplant is struggling in low humidity levels and is losing moisture from its foliage faster than the roots can replace it. All plants release water vapor from tiny pores on their leaves and, in dry air, that moisture is sucked out at a faster rate. The plant parts furthest away from the roots supplying the water are the first to run out of moisture, which is why leaf tips are the first to dry out to a crispy brown. At this time of the year, it's very common to see houseplants with long, narrow leaves like spider plants with brown leaf tips. Low humidity is also an easily-avoided reason why peace lily flowers turn brown.

There are other symptoms to look out for too, such as slow growth and smaller new leaves. While many plants naturally produce aerial roots, if you spot a sudden escalation in their number, the houseplant is likely seeking more humidity. And if you find that the potting soil dries out super-quickly after watering, too-dry air may be the cause.

Why Humidity Trays Work Better Than Misting

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Misting houseplants provide a quick fix but the spike in humidity only lasts for a very short time, whereas a humidity tray delivers constant moisture to create a more permanent microclimate. To match the humidity levels provided by a pebble tray, you’d need to mist houseplants every hour, every day, every night. Misting can also create a breeding ground for fungal and bacterial disease by leaving water sitting on foliage.

If You Live in a Dry, Arid Zone

In dry or arid zones like Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico or Colorado, your houseplants may need humidity trays topped up year-round. You’ll likely see even plants that don’t require very high air moisture levels developing brown tips, which is a sure sign that they’ll benefit from a humidity tray.

If You Live in a Hot and Humid Zone

At the other end of the scale, if you live in a high-humidity climate like Louisiana, Mississippi or Florida, only the houseplants that are highly dependent on humidity need a pebble tray – unless your home is equipped with an efficient air-conditioning system that dehumidifies, and dependant on your winter home-heat level, of course. Unnecessary standing water in a warm, damp home puts plants at a higher risk of pests and fungal disease.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Gifting many of your houseplants a DIY humidity tray will help them to flourish in our heated homes through fall and winter, and happy plants grow leaves that are larger and lusher, greener and glossier. Along with a cheap thermometer that displays air moisture percentages, your DIY pebble tray makes it very easy to adjust humidity levels, too. Keep the trays topped up with water for maximum humidity, and gradually reduce if needs be once your home's heat is turned off. You can even leave the trays water-free over summer if natural humidity is high enough in your climate, and let your DIY pebble saucers serve as stylish houseplant decor for a personal touch, until the heat's turned back on.

More Weekend Wins

This feature is part of the Weekend Wins series, packed with quick and easy gardening tasks that bring a big reward.

Plant Peony Tulips

Peonies are pretty but peony-like tulips give you way more petals for far less effort: plant these spring-flowering bulbs now.

Make Fast Compost

Making compost from fall leaves takes forever, right? Not if you know this gardener's trick to get it ready in time for spring.

Raise Patio Pots

Waterlogged soil is the prime reason potted plants fail in fall and winter, and this speedy solution couldn't be simpler.

Bows are back and trending for Christmas 2026, as has been well and truly proven by Victoria and David Beckham.

Like trees, candy canes, and presents, bows are about as Christmassy as it gets. It’s the finishing touch on a really sparkly gift, the detail that truly brings out the beauty of a wreath or garlands, and it’s what makes a mantel look dressed for the holiday season.

O a Christmas tree, though? Why, it’s a very simple addition, but it can often prove itself to be the finishing touch that brings the whole thing to life.

The Beckham’s Bow-Trimmed Christmas Tree: Get the Look

Bows are popping up as the go-to Christmas tree ornament all over the place, from garden centers and social media, and it's all down to the likes of Kate Hudson and a whole host of other celebrities... including David and Victoria.

That's right; last Christmas saw the Beckhams decorate their traditional tree with golden-yellow bows rather than a massive collection of ornaments, and shared the results to Instagram.

Swipe to the second slide on the post below to check it out:

A post shared by Victoria Beckham (@victoriabeckham)

A photo posted by

The vibe? Why, classy and unique (much as you'd expect from the stylish pair). It’s also way easier to copy than it looks, but it's important to remember that there are a few places where bow-trimmed trees tend do go wrong.

To help you get it right, we consulted the pros. Here's what they had to say.

1. Pick Your Lights First

(Image credit: PMS)

When trying to recreate the Beckhams' Christmas tree, most people start with the ribbon, which is a big mistake.

“Buy your lights before you buy your ribbon,” says Nadi Melam, founder and lead preservation artist at Florals Memories, who works with matching color to light. A golden-yellow bow can look orange once the tree is lit. “Warm light bulbs will add orange to anything they touch. Cool-white ones will remove any yellow.”

Interior designer Irena Cara, co-founder of Nova Wrap, recommends warm white as a general rule: “Use warm white lights and place them deep in the tree. Avoid tinsel and multicolored lights as they detract from the ribbon.”

Shop Christmas Lights:

yietNL Fairy Lights Plug

YOEEN 24 Pack Fairy Lights Battery Operated Lights

Ariceleo Starry Fairy Lights

Don't forget to do a test first. “Hold a strip of ribbon up to your lights before buying a full spool,” says Melam. “The wrong spool is your most expensive error.”

2. One Ribbon, One Width

(Image credit: Bogdan Sonjachnyj / Shutterstock)

The key word here is restraint, and it’s what gives a bow tree like David and Victoria Beckham's tree that expertly designed look.

“Bows look planned when you select one ribbon color and one width,” says Melam. “You end up with too many choices if you use too many colors and widths. That’s what makes a tree look cluttered.”

Cara adds texture to the plan: “Velvet ribbon adds a nice textured element to a tree. Grosgrain and wired satin ribbon keep their shape and can also add nice detail to the tree.” Her limit is “no more than two finishes on the tree.”

3. Stick To The Magic Number

(Image credit: Sanghwan Kim / Getty Images)

While some Christmas trees look great with one oversized ribbon as per the above, those who want to emulate the Beckhams' Christmas tree need to get working on a few more bows than that.

In fact, Cara has a number in mind: “A tree is finished with 20 to 30 bows. They should be spaced about an arm’s length apart and staggered so they don’t form a straight line across the tree.”

Depth matters as much as spacing. “Place each bow deep within the tree, so the branches will embrace it,” says Melam. “If the bow is on the end of a branch, it will droop and move in the breeze.”

Cara’s main warning is about scale: “Decorating too small is the biggest faux pas. Tiny ornaments and thin ribbon get lost on a large tree.”

4. Don't Forget The Back And Sides

(Image credit: Yana Iskayeva/Getty Images)

Do you ever feel completely satisfied when you decorate your Christmas tree only to get comfy on the sofa and realize you missed an entire side of it? “Look at your tree from all sides before you consider it finished,” says Melam.

Cara agrees: “A tree without decorations in the back and bottom of the tree looks unfinished.”

If the tree looks thin in places, definitely don’t make the mistake of adding more ornaments. “Add small evergreen sprigs into any gaps you see before you fill in more ornaments,” says Melam. “You create subtlety by making fewer design decisions and repeating those choices.”

5. Choose A Tree That Can Carry It

Cara is clear that she’s a designer rather than a horticulturist, but she has noticed which trees hold up well. “The branches of a Fir, such as a Fraser or Nordmann, will keep an even shape and hold the needles better.”

A bow-led tree also helps the branches. “Heavier ornaments and a lot of ornaments on the tree cause the branches to break and bend over time, so place fewer, larger, and more considered ornaments on the tree.”

(Image credit: Tom Werner / Getty Images)

If you’re trying to be budget-conscious, bows are also a great idea as they’re a lot cheaper than a full set of ornaments. “Using a large, wide ribbon to make bows is cheaper than buying ornaments,” says Cara.

Melam’s advice is to put the money where it shows: “Spend on lights and high-quality ribbon, then use what you have to finish the job.” If you grow your own, she adds, “You can also use dried clippings from your garden as filler.”

Victoria and David Beckham don’t need a cluttered, crowded tree to make a big impression, and neither do you. Just pick the right lights, add a few golden ribbons, and you can get the same polished look in no time flat!

Autumn leaves are the ornamental equivalent of spring flowers, nature’s fireworks show that excites and uplifts us. We love it when the green foliage of deciduous trees turns fiery shades and – leaf by leaf – drifts gracefully down to the ground. But the next act is unfortunate: mountains of fallen leaves and other fall debris that needs to be removed from the premises.

Raking up and carting away is one way to tackle fall cleanup, but it is tedious and time-consuming. Burning is a quicker, easier alternative – one match and the deed is done. But backyard burning is subject to a complicated patchwork of state laws, municipal ordinances, seasonal fire restrictions, and air-quality regulations. A fallen-leaf bonfire can result in fines or even a criminal complaint.

So is “burn, baby, burn” an appropriate way to deal with yard waste? I can't give a definitive yes or no, but as a former attorney, I will explain the general rules about the legality of burning yard waste and the consequences you might face if you do it wrong. It's exactly the kind of legal dilemma I cover in my Gardening Lawyer series. Here are the rules to check, along with safer alternatives for disposing of garden waste.

Can You Legally Burn Yard Waste in Your Backyard?

When a landscape issue has a legal component, you're unlikely to get a definitive yes-or-no answer. Instead, these issues depend on the applicable laws and ordinances. Whether you can legally burn yard waste in your backyard in the USA depends entirely on your state, county, and city ordinances, and current weather or fire-danger conditions. You’ll want to check with all of these authorities before burning, or ask a local landscape professional.

However, there are some general rules that usually apply. These give you a general idea of the restrictions that might be in place, what you can burn, whether burning is allowed, and what you can never burn.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What Types of Restrictions Are in Place?

The laws that restrict burning yard waste are far from uniform. More cities completely ban open burning of foliage all year long. These absolute prohibitions are based on community values like air quality issues. Nobody likes to breathe smoke, and burning green waste releases icky stuff: fine particulate matter, carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides, and toxic smoke.

Some states or counties allow you to burn dry leaves and brush, but with seasonal restrictions. These may specify certain months that burning is allowed, or it might ban burning entirely during dry seasons or high winds.

Other areas allow burning but control the size of the material to be burned (for example, permitting only a 6x6 foot (2x2 m) pile). Some laws impose setback requirements to keep the fires a safe distance from buildings and roads. Still others restrict when, during a day, piles can be burned. These can be seen as safety restrictions.

Other possible safety mandates include requiring that all fires be supervised by an adult during the entire burn, having a source of water near the fire, like a connected garden hose, and a requirement that the fire be wet down and the ashes stirred when the burn is done.

What Can Be Burned?

Even if your jurisdiction allows yard waste burning, that doesn’t mean you can burn anything and everything. If the law permits you to burn yard waste, there are always restrictions on the types of materials that can be burned. Generally, a homeowner living in an “okay-to-burn” jurisdiction can only burn dry, natural vegetation from plants on your property. This will include leaves, brush, limbs, grass clippings, and clean wood.

On the negative side, you should never expect to be permitted to burn personal garbage, paper, plastics, rubber, tires, painted or treated wood, construction debris, or chemicals of any kind. These can release dangerous dioxins and furans that settle into soil and local food chains.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What Are the Consequences for Illegal Burning?

The consequences for the Illegal burning of yard waste depend on the applicable laws. In general, thumbing your nose at burn bans or restrictions can lead to severe financial, legal, and environmental consequences.

The possible penalties fall into distinct categories:

• Monetary penalties (ranging from $100 to $1,000, or, for severe violations, up to $10,000)
• Cost recovery of Fire Department costs, including engine use, personnel time, and equipment
• Misdemeanor criminal charges that can get you jail time
• Civil liability for any property damage from the fire, including all costs of fighting a wildfire that results from your burn.

What to Do With Yard Waste Instead of Burning It

Nobody wants to face these serious consequences of ignoring yard-debris burning restrictions. But you have to do something with all those leaves. What are your alternatives to burning?

If you shred fall leaves, small branches, and even grass cuttings, you can create an excellent compost. Spread this around your landscape. It will enrich your garden soil. It’s a good idea to invest in a shredder – like this Sun Joe Wood Chipper Shredder and Waste Shredding Machine – to speed up this process. You can also use shredded yard debris as eco-friendly mulch around the root area of trees and shrubs.

Many cities offer “compost” pickups the same day they take your garbage. In San Francisco, we get large green containers in which we can put any green-waste materials. They usually send these to a municipal recycling center.

More from the Gardening Lawyer

• Is Your Neighbor's Security Camera Filming Your Backyard?
• Neighbor’s Tree Dumping Leaves All Over Your Yard?
• Is It Ever OK to Mow Your Neighbor's Lawn?
• If Your Tree Falls Into a Neighbor’s Yard, Who Pays for the Damage?
• Can You Take Garden Plants With You When You Move House?
• Is It OK to Take Plant Cuttings From Garden Centers?

The holiday season is fast approaching, bringing the annual scramble for festive boughs. wreaths, garlands, and mantelpiece greenery. But why buy store-bought greenery that will just end up in yard waste bags by January? Plastic greenery may be used again, but it doesn’t bring the same charm. Besides, there’s a far more rewarding alternative: growing your own living holiday decor outside your back door.

Growing plants that can help you see in the holiday season in style can deliver dual rewards. Through the year, these shrubs, trees, and aromatic herbs provide texture, wildlife shelter, and vibrant winter color. Come December, they supply an abundant, sustainable harvest of natural Christmas decorations in the form of lush foliage, pretty berries, and uplifting fragrance for seasonal wreaths, table runners, and gift wrapping.

Most of these perennial performers are resilient, adaptable, and low-maintenance once established. Bring authentic seasonal beauty indoors with these gorgeous double-duty beauties. These winter garden plants add effortless elegance, joy and character to your festive displays, and generally they need very little upkeep, freeing you up to enjoy the season. Here are 7 standout plants to add to your yard for easy homegrown holiday displays you can harvest for years to come.

Plants for Natural Festive Decor

Your USDA hardiness zone has some bearing on the plants you add for clippings that can festoon your festive garland and centerpieces. In mild and transitional zones, any hardy evergreens and deciduous shrubs planted now will establish strong roots over winter while top growth rests. In colder northern regions where frost arrives early, tender herbs thrive indoors in sunny containers, ready to move outside next spring.

Most evergreen conifers, hollies, and woodland shrubs thrive in slightly acidic, humus-rich soil with reliable drainage. Meanwhile, Mediterranean herbs demand sharp grit and full sun. When planting woody shrubs in November, dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. Backfill with native soil amended with organic compost, and water deeply to settle any air pockets before the ground freezes.

(Image credit: Solstock / Getty Images)

Apply a 2-inch (5cm) layer of shredded bark mulch around the base, keeping it clear of the main stem, to insulate roots against freeze-thaw cycles. I like Back to the Roots Organic Premium Wood Mulch, available from Amazon, to help lock in soil moisture and regulate soil temperature. In zones 6 and colder, verify that soil remains workable and unfrozen before planting. If hard freezes have already locked the earth, hold hardy specimens in a cold frame or pot until spring.

When harvesting for holiday arrangements, never strip entire limbs or harvest heavily from young shrubs during the first two years of establishment. Instead, take selective snips evenly from around the plant. Always cut just above an outward-facing bud or lateral branch, using sharp, sanitized bypass pruners to prevent winter disease.

To keep cut greenery lush indoors, wait until you are ready to craft before harvesting, or submerge freshly cut stem ends in a bucket of cool water in an unheated garage for 24-48 hours to hydrate fully. Keep finished wreaths and garlands away from roaring fireplaces, radiators, and heating vents to prevent premature needle drop and fire hazards. Mist your arrangements lightly with water every few days. Hopefully the following plants will give you plenty of season’s greetings…

1. American Holly

(Image credit: Kryssia Campos / Getty Images)

Nothing captures traditional Christmas decor like the glossy foliage and scarlet berries of American holly (Ilex opaca). Hardy across zones 5-9, this stately native evergreen provides year-round privacy and winter shelter for songbirds, before lending its iconic branches to holiday mantels and door wreaths. Plant in full sun to partial shade in moist, slightly acidic soil. It can reach 15-30 feet (4.5-9m) tall, so allow ample elbow room or choose compact cultivars like Maryland Dwarf.

You must plant at least one pollinating male cultivar (such as Jersey Knight) within 40 feet of berry-producing female trees (Satyr Hill or Miss Helen) to guarantee fruit set. Harvest small, 8-12-inch (20-30cm) sprigs evenly around the tree using sharp pruners. Dip stems in water overnight before wiring into garlands. Note that holly berries are toxic to pets and humans if ingested, so display out of reach of dogs and toddlers. You can buy American Holly from Nature Hills at a discount if you hurry.

2. Winterberry Holly

(Image credit: Danita Delimont / Shutterstock)

For winter drama, few shrubs rival winterberry holly. Unlike its evergreen cousins, this rugged native deciduous holly drops its leaves in fall to reveal bare branches densely studded with luminous, bright red berries that persist well into midwinter. Thriving across zones 3-9, winterberry (Ilex verticillata) is ideal for damp, low-lying, or poorly drained spots where most other woody ornamentals rot. It prefers full sun for maximum fruit production, as well as acidic, organic-rich soil.

Winterberry also requires male and female plants for pollination (and hence berries). Pair prolific female cultivars like Winter Red or compact Berry Poppins with a male pollinator such as Southern Gentleman or Mr. Poppins. Cut stems look magnificent in tall floor vases, outdoor porch planters, and minimalist wreaths paired with silver-blue cedar. Harvest selectively once leaves have fallen, leaving plenty of fruit for robins and cedar waxwings. If you fancy a golden variation on the classic winterberry, you can buy Yellow Winterberry Holly from Amazon.

3. Red Twig Dogwood

(Image credit: HHelene / Shutterstock)

When winter strips color from the yard, red twig dogwood (Cornus sericea) brings blazing crimson bark that looks electrifying against fresh snow. Hardy in zones 2-7, this vigorous native tolerates everything from boggy clay to average loam in full sun or light shade. Look for vibrant Cardinal or compact Arctic Fire, which stays under 4 feet (1.2m) tall and fits neatly into small suburban borders. You can currently buy Bailey Red Twigged Dogwood from Nature Hills at a staggering 40% discount.

The most dramatic bark develops on 1-2-year-old shoots, as older wood gradually turns brown. Cut out up to one third of the oldest, thickest stems down to the ground in late fall. This renewal pruning stimulates a flush of vivid new canes next spring, while providing structural crimson wands for your holiday decor. Weave flexible young stems into evergreen wreaths for classic contrast, or arrange upright branches in weighted urns alongside white pine and pinecones.

4. Juniper

(Image credit: Ed Reschke / Getty Images)

Junipers deliver unmistakable fragrance alongside feathery, silver-blue foliage studded with dusty, berry-like cones. Thriving in zones 3-9 depending on species, junipers range from low-spreading groundcovers (like Blue Rug) to graceful upright evergreens like Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) and blue-tinged Rocky Mountain juniper (Wichita Blue). Plant in full sun and sharp, well-drained soil. Once established, junipers are drought-tolerant and shrug off winter winds. You can get Wichita Blue Juniper from Trees for a compact holiday-friendly choice.

Their supple boughs are tailor-made for weaving lush garlands over doorways, shaping rustic table runners, and layering texture into mixed evergreen wreaths. When harvesting branches, prune lightly from the outer tips and never cut back into old, bare interior wood. Dunk cut sprigs in cool water for 24 hours before crafting, and wear sleeves to guard against potential skin irritation from the resinous needles.

5. Rosemary

(Image credit: Alexey Sulima / Shutterstock)

Bridging the gap between holiday decor and festive feasting, here comes rosemary. Its pine-scented foliage brings instant charm to winter tablescapes and mini wreaths, especially paired with dried orange slices and cinnamon sticks. Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) is reliably perennial outdoors in zones 8-10, where it thrives in lean alkaline soil. If you are in zone 7 or colder, grow upright cultivars like Tuscan Blue or Arp in terracotta containers. You can buy Arp Rosemary Indoor Christmas Plants from Plant Addicts. Just remember to transition plants outside when weather permits.

Move pots indoors to a bright, south-facing windowsill before hard fall freezes arrive, watering sparingly only when the top two inches (5cm) of soil feel dry. Harvesting sprigs in December encourages bushy branching, but never remove more than one-third of the plant at once. Any leftover trimmings from wreath-making sessions can be used in holiday roast potatoes, focaccia, and mulled cider. Win-win!

6. Silver Dollar Eucalyptus

(Image credit: Elena Rostunova / Shutterstock)

For a modern, frosted aesthetic that elevates traditional red-and-green palettes, try silver dollar eucalyptus (Eucalyptus cinerea). Prized by floral designers for its dusty leaves and camphor aroma, this fast-growing Australian native is hardy outside in zones 8-11. In cooler climates, grow it as a chic container specimen that can come into a cool, bright sunroom or frost-free conservatory before temperatures dip below 25°F (-4°C). You can buy Silver Dollar Eucalyptus Trees from Trees with a 20% discount if you quote the code at checkout.

Eucalyptus demands full sun and gritty, fast-draining soil. In late fall, selectively prune back overly long, whippy shoots by up to a third. This shapes the plant before winter rest, rewarding you with supple stems for cascading garlands, mantel swags, and vase displays. Unlike conifers that eventually shed, eucalyptus dries gracefully indoors. Just let the cut stems dry before using them in arrangements, hanging them upside down in a cool, dark room for 2 weeks.

7. White Pine

(Image credit: KenWiedemann / Getty Images)

Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus) is quintessential holiday greenery. Instantly recognizable by its soft, feathery bundles of blue-green needles, this stately conifer thrives in zones 3-8. Plant in full sun or light shade in slightly acidic, well-drained soil. Give it generous space, too. Standard trees can soar 50-80 feet (15-24m) tall, but compact cultivars like Nana or Blue Shag suit smaller yards. You can get 30% off an American Beauties’ Eastern White Pine Trees from Nature Hills.

Growing white pine for holiday decor rewards patience. Allow newly planted trees 3-5 years to establish before harvesting, and never cut the central leader shoot, as it can ruin the tree's natural symmetry. When mature, snip 12-18-inch (30-45cm) lateral side tips around the lower and middle branches. You can weave its flexible stems into lush banister garlands and door wreaths, while its perfume fills the home.

(Image credit: Ninavartanava / Getty Images)

Growing a holiday garden is a great way to get the most out of your plants, but it does require time and patience. Choose the right plants for your garden and help them get established strongly. Don’t rush the process and harvest too much too soon, and you’ll be rewarded with years of lush, natural décor.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Weekly roundup of three properties that recently sold in Metro Vancouver.

2 — 2735 Eton St., Vancouver

Type: Three-bedroom, four-bathroom half duplex

Size: 1,646 square feet

B.C. Assessment: N/A

Listed for: $1,699,000

Sold for: $1,675,000

Sold on: Aug. 20

Days on market in this listing: 13

Listing agent: Mark Hammer PREC at eXp Realty

Buyers agent: Navid Hakimi PREC at ReMax Masters Realty

The big sell: Pavarya Homes recently built this duplex property in Vancouver’s Hastings-Sunrise neighbourhood with a Craftsman-inspired design that blends elegance with functionality. This particular unit forms the back half of the duplex and comprises more than 1,600 square feet of living space divided over three levels. The main floor is open plan with high ceilings above premium Fisher & Paykel appliances, quartz countertops and sleek two-tone cabinets in the kitchen, and a dining and living area that opens to the backyard via a bifold glass panel door. There are two bedrooms on the middle level — both ensuited — while the top floor bedroom has vaulted ceilings, a full ensuite bathroom, an eight-foot-long walk-in closet, and a covered balcony where far-reaching North Shore mountain views can be admired. Central air conditioning, a single garage with french doors that could be used as office space or a gym, and the 2-5-10 new home warranty are further highlights.

16 — 3535 Princeton Ave., Coquitlam

Type: Three-bedroom, three-bathroom townhouse

Size: 1,640 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $1,090,000

Listed for: $1,158,000

Sold for: $1,125,000

Sold on: Aug. 6

Days on market in this listing: Five

Listing agent: Ryan Abdi and Paris Timouri PREC at eXp Realty

Buyers agent: Rod Bahari PREC at Sutton Group — West Coast Realty

The big sell: This three-bedroom townhouse was snapped up in just five days thanks to a number of attributes most notably a rooftop oasis tailor-made for relaxation and entertaining that offers panoramic sunset and valley vistas as well as a gas barbecue hookup, a dedicated hot tub connection, power, and built-in storage. The home resides on Burke Mountain with many parks, trails, schools, transit, and other conveniences nearby. It was built in 2020 as part of the 3535 Princeton complex that comprises 27 strata townhouses with floor plans that accommodate three, four and five bedrooms. Inside this home there is central air conditioning, a Smart thermostat, keyless entry, California Closets, grey Shaker-style cabinetry, a kitchen island with soft accent lighting, and a side-by-side double garage with epoxy floors and an electric vehicle charger rough-in. The home’s monthly maintenance fee is $336.56, the strata accepts pets and rentals with restrictions, and there is a children’s playground within the development.

201 — 9153 Saturna Dr., Burnaby

Type: Two-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment

Size: 860 square feet

B.C. Assessment: $439,000

Listed for: $419,000

Sold for: $408,000

Sold on: Sept. 1

Days on market in this listing: 40

Listing agent: Lia Lee at ReMax Lifestyles Realty (Langley)

Buyers agent: Stephen Morris at Oakwyn Realty

The big sell: The Mountain Wood development in Burnaby North is home to this two-bedroom corner unit that boasts two balconies with a treed outlook — one off the living room and the other off one of the bedrooms. Built in 1976 in the Simon Fraser Hills neighbourhood, residents are within walking distance to elementary and secondary schools, the future Cameron Community Centre, and Lougheed SkyTrain Station. In addition, the family-friendly complex has an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, and a playground. Two pets are permitted (with no size restriction) and rentals too. Inside this home there are updated kitchen cabinets and a bathroom vanity, a laundry room and insuite storage, a galley-style kitchen with white appliances, and a mix of tile flooring and carpet throughout the home. The unit comes with a parking stall and a monthly maintenance fee of $500.16.

These transactions were compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Realtors — send your recent sales to nicola@besthomesbc.com

Learn more about the latest mortgage rates and explore our guide to Canada’s lowest national insured and uninsured mortgage rates, updated daily.Related

• Sold (Bought): West Van condo takes full advantage of spectacular south-facing views
• Sold (Bought): Dunbar property's large, south-facing lot a big draw

Jelson Padrón Sánchez had been looking for a place to buy for well over a year before he decided on Lexford.

“I took my time,” Sánchez said.

“I lived nearby, so I know the area very well. I saw the building, the developer, the construction, the whole process. I passed by every single day to and from work and just kept an eye on it.”

Located at the junction of Shaughnessy Street and Prairie Avenue, the 117-home, four-storey development is Polygon’s first apartment building in Port Coquitlam. The building’s West Coast Modern exterior features a striking combination of white, charcoal and black, accented by wood-look beams and brick detailing.

For Sánchez, a first-time homebuyer who had been renting a one-bedroom basement suite a few blocks away, buying a brand-new home wasn’t initially part of the plan.

“I was looking to buy something used, I would say, something between five and 15 years old.

“I went to some places, different apartments, but I was not happy with what I was looking at. I’m too picky, I’m too clean.

“My realtor told me, ‘Well, Jelson, I think to reach your standards, maybe it would be a good idea to have something new.’”

Lexford offers seven floor plans, ranging from studios to three-bedroom homes, some with flexible spaces. Interiors come in two colour schemes, Trail and River, and feature nine-foot ceilings, low-E windows, roller blinds and plush carpeting in bedrooms.

Contemporary kitchens feature engineered stone countertops and spacious islands, while bathrooms and ensuites have a spa-inspired esthetic. Most homes include a covered deck or ground-floor patio, and many offer mountain views. Heat-pump systems provide heating and air conditioning, while the building is constructed to BC Energy Step Code 3 standards.

Unlike many new developments, Lexford was completed before sales began.

“We thought it would be better to come to market with finished homes so that people could tour their options and touch, feel and see exactly what they’d be buying,” said senior VP of marketing Goldie Alam.

The approach allowed prospective buyers to check out the building’s amenities firsthand.

A welcoming lobby features double-height ceilings, comfortable seating and an electric fireplace. Motion-activated lighting brightens the space as residents enter, while a wall of parcel lockers keeps deliveries organized.

Also on the main floor, a spacious fitness studio features modern equipment and a dedicated yoga and stretching area. A communal lounge has a café-like ambience, with comfortable seating and space for residents to gather.

For Sánchez, who regularly works out, the fitness facilities were a particular attraction.

“My gym is about a 15-minute drive from here, so I’ll probably cancel my membership and use the gym in the building,” he said.

“The yoga room is impressive, too. It’s small but very cute, and nice enough for yoga or tai chi, for people who like that.”

The building also features a main-floor bicycle storage room and small study lounges on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th floors. Outdoor amenities include a children’s play area, lawn, picnic tables and space for a community garden.

Sánchez, who owns two bicycles, appreciates having somewhere to store them.

“It was something I was paying attention to when I was looking for a place. It’s important to have a place to store the bikes.”

He was also able to tour a suite with the same layout as the two-bedroom home he eventually purchased on the second floor.

“They sent me all of the floor plans, so I was able to look at different apartments, different units, and compare square footage, layout, position and price,” he said.

According to sales manager Sandra Bua, 27 homes sold in Lexford’s first month on the market following the Sept. 26 sales launch. Buyers have included downsizers, first-time purchasers, young families, couples and singles, with almost all coming from the Tri-Cities.

The location offers convenient access to shopping, restaurants and recreation. Coquitlam Centre is a short walk away, as are neighbourhood eateries, while the Coquitlam River and its network of trails are just a block from the building. A multi-use bike path is located off the front of the building.

For Sánchez, who was born in Cuba and has lived in Maple Ridge, east Vancouver and Port Moody, the proximity to nature is a major reason he has made Port Coquitlam his home.

“I like to be close to the forest and the mountains and the river and the trails,” he said.

“It’s perfect because I run all around the river. I like to run, so some afternoons, if the weather is good, I just step out, and I’m able to run all around the PoCo Trail.”

His new apartment may not have mountain views, but its south-facing windows overlook trees, and the additional bedroom will eventually serve as his home office.

For now, it’s accommodating his parents, who travelled from Cuba to help him settle into his first home.

“They came to help me with the move and get organized here and be part of the moment and the experience of moving to a new place — my first home,” he said.

“I’m just trying to include them in my journey, in my life.”

Project: Lexford

Project address: 2178 Prairie Ave., Port Coquitlam, B.C.

Developer: Polygon

Architect: Engage Architecture

Interior designer: Polygon Interior Design Limited

Project size: 117 homes

Price: Starting from $499,900

Number of bedrooms: Studio, one, two and three bedrooms

Construction: Move-in ready

Sales centre: 2178 Prairie Avenue, Port Coquitlam

Centre hours: Noon to 5 p.m. daily, except Fridays

Sales phone: 604-820-1927

Website:polyhomes.com/community/lexford

Related

• Wordsworth by Polygon Homes puts community fit over flash
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Fancy a Christmas-themed room as it might be imagined by filmmaker Wes Anderson? The holiday season is not only a chance to support local crafts folks but also an opportunity to see some innovative and perhaps extravagant decor. Here are five upcoming events to satisfy your craving for artisanal crafts, mulled wine, gingerbread, and tinsel.

Homes for the Holidays

Top Vancouver designers transform a historic UBC mansion into a showcase of festive decor.

When: Nov. 21 and 22
Where: Cecil Green Park House, 6251 Cecil Green Park Rd., Vancouver
Tickets & info: $65 (GA) at homesfortheholidays.ca

Award-winning interior designers showcase holiday decorating ideas at UBC’s Cecil Green Park House. One concept sounds particularly intriguing: for A Rather Grand Holiday, Stephanie Brown takes cues from the films of Wes Anderson. Expect symmetrical arrangements, mid-century furniture and an unconventional palette. Other designers include Jamie Banfield, Dexter Dolores, and Phyllis Lui. Proceeds support YWCA BC’s Housing Action Fund.

Hycroft for the Holidays

Sustainable fashions, handmade jewelry and gourmet treats are among the offerings at this historic Vancouver mansion’s holiday market.

When: Nov. 26 to 29
Where: 1489 McRae Ave., Vancouver
Tickets & info: From $22.73 at uwcvancouver.ca

More than 40 local artisans take over the Edwardian manse, with strong showings of jewelry makers, textile artists and gourmet-food vendors. Among the more distinctive offerings are recycled cashmere from Winterluxe, upcycled fashions from Endure Upcycled Designs and traditional printing from Porchlight Press Letterpress. Foodies can browse everything from Bowen Island Herb Salts and Salt Spring Artisan Vinegar to locally produced wine, spirits and confectionery. Jazz musicians Gabriel Mark Hasselbach and Tom Arntzen, violinist Sam Ching and the Noel Carolling Trio perform. Proceeds support the preservation of the historic mansion and its gardens. Six non-profit organizations will also have booths at the market.

Christmas in the Greenhouse at Southlands Nursery

Artisanal homeware, gourmet treats and freshly cut Christmas trees bring holiday cheer to this Southlands nursery.

When: Nov. 28 and 29 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Where: The Greenhouse at Southlands Nursery, 6550 Balaclava St., Vancouver
Info:southlandsnursery.com

This market features 20 vendors selling artisanal homeware, particularly ceramics, florals and decorative objects. Vancouver ceramic artist Janaki Larsen creates minimalist, hand-thrown pottery, including bowls, plates and vases. Rosie Daykin, founder of Vancouver’s Butter Baked Goods, has written several bestselling cookbooks. Her latest, The Side Gardener, combines gardening advice with vegetable-forward recipes. Quince Fine Florals is an established Vancouver florist specializes in seasonal, botanically inspired arrangements. Merci Boulangerie will be on site selling hot apple cider, sandwiches and baked goods. Entry is free, and in addition to the holiday market the nursery will also be brimming with natural holiday decor, including their selection of freshly cut Christmas trees.

Shipyards Christmas Market

European-style holiday festivities meet international street food, artisan shopping and waterfront skating at this North Vancouver Christmas market.

When: Nov. 27 to Dec. 24
Where: Shipbuilder’s Square, 19 Wallace Mews, North Vancouver
Info:shipyardschristmasmarket.com

The annual free European-style Christmas market on the North Vancouver waterfront comes complete with wooden chalets, German bratwurst grilled over an open flame, Polish perogies, French raclette, Dutch mini pancakes, Portuguese egg tarts and Italian pasta tossed in a giant Parmesan wheel. Wash it all down with mulled wine, spiked apple cider, Irish coffee or Christmas beer brewed specially for the market. Meanwhile, over 100 artisans will be selling everything from handmade ornaments and jewelry to ceramics, candles, preserves and woodcraft. New this year is L’Orangerie Noël, an upscale shopping experience inside the historic Pipe Shop featuring 12 artisan boutiques, an art gallery and a champagne bar serving Veuve Clicquot, espresso martinis and Prosecco cocktails. Other attractions include free skating, photos with Santa and Mrs. Claus, and live entertainment.

Heritage New Westminster Homes for the Holidays

Step inside five festively decorated private homes and a historic museum on this holiday tour celebrating New Westminster’s architectural heritage.

When: Dec. 6 from 4:30 to 7:30 p.m.
Where: Various locations
Tickets & info: $35 at newwestheritage.org

A Victorian estate in Queen’s Park is among five homes in New West opening their doors to visitors. The homeowners themselves have decorated the homes themselves although Homes for the Holidays sponsor Lori Fralic of Fralic Real Estate will lead a team to decorate two properties, Rostrevor and the Margaret E. Stewart House, drawing on their respective Victorian and cottage styles. Founded by the Queen’s Park Healthcare Volunteers Society, Homes for the Holidays is being carried on by Heritage New West. Proceeds will support Heritage New West’s community programs and heritage preservation initiatives.

Houseplants bring so much life and joy to the indoors at this time of the year, so it can be especially distressing to see leaves dropping. The occasional drop of one or two older, spent leaves isn’t a big deal, but if you see green or yellow leaves falling or an excessive leaf drop, you have cause for concern.

Don't panic, though. Fall leaf drop in houseplants doesn’t necessarily mean they’re dying, but it is a sign of distress that you should heed. The transition to fall and winter can be difficult for houseplants, who can struggle to survive changes in lighting, temperature, humidity, and more. Tropical houseplants are particularly susceptible to these shifts. Environmental changes can trigger plants to drop their leaves, and while some simply need an adjustment period to recover, you can speed their journey back to full health by working out what they're particularly unhappy about.

So, great work getting here to Garden ER where you'll find straightforward solutions to treat this season’s biggest planty problems. Right now, let's identify the kind of leaf drop you’re seeing and the probable cause, and what you should do to set it right. Come on in and let’s diagnose and treat your houseplant with fallen leaves.

Triage: How Serious is the Leaf Drop?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Normal, occasional leaf drop happens when an older leaf, usually near the base of the plant, has yellowed or browned and is ready to drop and make room for new growth. Unusual and more concerning leaf drop shows some characteristic signs:

• Healthy green leaves suddenly dropping
• More yellow leaves dropping than usual
• Leaves turning brown and dry before dropping
• Many leaves dropping at the same time
• Stems dropping along with leaves
• Healthy plants looking ragged and unhealthy within days or a week.

You might see one or more of these symptoms in your houseplant, and they'll help you identify the cause.

Diagnosis: What's Causing Leaf Drop in My Houseplant?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Many of the causes of excessive leaf drop are related to seasonal changes in growing conditions. Observe the symptoms in your plants and the conditions where they’re growing to decide which one, or more than one, of these issues is at play.

1. Temperature Changes

While indoor temperature shifts right now might not seem that drastic to you, they can be for houseplants. As the temperatures drop outside, your plants’ locations near windows might be significantly colder than other areas of a room, even with the heat on. They might also be experiencing drafts that were absent in summer and early fall. Colder overall temperatures and changes in temperature throughout the day can both be damaging.

Some signs a plant might be dropping leaves due to temperature shifts include suddenly dropped green leaves, leaves falling after a cold night, or leaf drop on the side of a plant facing a cold draft or window.

Tropical houseplants, and in particular ficus – including fiddle leaf fig, weeping fig and rubber tree plant – are especially sensitive to temperature changes, and are notorious for dropping their leaves after even a subtle shift.

(Image credit: Getty Images)2. Low Humidity

If you’ve had the windows open to enjoy the soft breezes of summer and early fall, closing them up in November can be a shock for houseplants. Turn on the heating, the humidity in the house naturally drops, leaving your plants to grow in dry, stale air.

Low humidity stresses many houseplants and in particular that come from humid tropical or subtropical locations such as Alocasia and Boston ferns. Calathea plants are especially likely to develop dry, crispy leaves that drop. In the dry air, these plants lose more water through their leaves than the roots can replace, and this results in drooping foliage, brown and crispy tips and edges, curling leaves, and increased leaf drop. It’s important to note that dry air can affect plants this way even if the soil is moist.

3. Shorter Days, Less Light

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Late fall and winter bring shorter days and less natural light for plants. This means plants engage in less photosynthesis and grow more slowly, and some go dormant, and leaf drop is a common response. In scientific terms, the lower light conditions accelerate abscission, the natural process that causes plants to shed their leaves.

Stress in the environment can also trigger certain hormones that cause leaves to detach before they’ve reached the end of their natural lifespan. It’s a response that helps a plant reduce the demands of maintaining healthy leaves when conditions aren’t favorable, to help ensure survival. So, while some seasonal leaf drop can be expected at this time of the year, an excessive loss of leaves likely means a stress-related acceleration of the process.

You might be seeing abscission due to lower light levels if plants drop a lot of older, yellow leaves at the base and without other signs of issues, like over- or underwatering. You might also see an overall thinning of the plant and less new growth.

4. Inappropriate Watering

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Reduced light levels and slower growth means plants don’t use as much water this time of year, and if you’re watering them like it’s still summer, they're likely overwatered, triggering leaf drop. This is a common reason why houseplants develop yellowing leaves in November. When waterlogged roots start to rot, they can’t absorb nutrients to send to the leaves which consequently turn yellow and drop off. You'll also likely see consistently wet soil, soft stems and mushy roots, and you may notice a sour smell.

Underwatering can be an issue too. If the soil fully dries out for long periods, you might see drooping, curling, or crispy leaves that readily drop off.

5. Moving Plants

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Plants that live indoors all year are susceptible to subtle environmental changes in November, but houseplants that spend the summer outside and the winter inside can experience even greater shifts. The change from fresh air, sun, and warmth to drier air and less light indoors is particularly stressful, and they can drop their leaves as a result.

Your plants can also be stressed if you move them to different locations within the home. Fiddle leaf figs are particularly sensitive to being moved once they’re comfortable. Most plants will recover from the shock of moving as long as you provide the right conditions in their new spot.

6. Pests

Environmental stress is the most typical reason for houseplant leaf drop, but be sure to check for pests too. Spider mites are common at this time of the year and an infestation can cause yellowing and leaf drop, especially in warm, dry air when numbers rapidly increase. If you spot fine webbing on the undersides of the leaves and where foliage meets stems, that's a sure sign of spider mites.

Watch out for mealybugs, too, which look like white, cottony lumps often in the joints between leaves and stems. Scale insects appear like small brown bumps on stems and leaves, and can also cause leaves to yellow and drop.

Treatment: How to Stop Houseplant Leaf Drop

Take action to correct these causes and minimize leaf drop, and houseplants will quickly recover. While some of these steps will be particularly important to put right whatever is the cause of your houseplant's stress, all will help a struggling, stressed plant to recover.

1. Find a Spot with a Consistent Temperature

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Plants don't respond well to being moved frequently so, rather than continually moving your houseplant around to find a location that suits, do some prep first. A basic thermometer that shows the minimum and maximum temperatures reached like this TempPro Digital Thermometer from Amazon will quickly show you exactly how cozy – or otherwise – a particular spot is. Houseplants prefer stable temperatures and it can be surprising what spikes are caused by heating vents and radiators, and what lows occur near doors, in drafts and on windowsills.

2. Increase Humidity

Dry indoor air is a major issue for tropical houseplants native to warm, humid areas. Grouping houseplants together naturally increases humidity around them, and you can easily raise moisture levels further with humidity trays. These are simply shallow trays filled with pebbles that sit beneath the pot, topped up with water that evaporates to increase air humidity. A Bonsai pebble tray such as this from Lowe’s is made for the job, or fashion your own with a plant saucer and pea gravel like this Landscape Rock from The Home Depot.

Another option is to use a humidifier and a portable design like the Homedics Humidifier, available from Amazon, is small enough to sit discreetly in among a group of houseplants.

3. Adjust Watering

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Instead of relying on guesswork, spend $10 on some simple, no-batteries-required moisture meters like these from Amazon, that tell you when the soil needs some more water. Instead of watering on a set schedule, check the soil on a set schedule instead and you'll naturally adjust irrigation levels in line with houseplants' seasonal needs. Make sure all your plants are in pots with a drainage hole and empty saucers or cachepot after watering to be sure roots aren’t sitting in soggy soil.

If you ever suspect overwatering, always check for root rot by sliding off the pot to check for discolored or mushy stems and a foul smell.

4. Provide More Light

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Because of reduced daylight hours and lower position of the sun in the sky through fall and winter, pay extra attention to whether houseplants are getting enough light. East-, west- and south-facing rooms are usually best, and rotate plants to ensure they get light evenly. If there isn't enough natural light in the spot you want to display your plants, use a grow light. These needn't be expensive, as this basic dimmable LED grow light such as this from Walmart proves.

5. Manage Pests

If you see pests or signs of pests, deal with the issue right away and isolate affected plants from others to avoid the infestation spreading. Wipe pests, webbing, honeydew and other residue from leaves with a soft cloth, and remove any foliage that is very badly damaged. Finally, if necessary, use an insecticidal soap or neem oil like Captain Jack's Neem Oil Spray, available from Amazon, to manage a pest infestation.

Patient Notes

Some plants like caladiums and elephant ear go dormant this time of year, so losing leaves in November is a natural and normal part of their lifecycle. As they're not actively growing, they're better placed in a cooler but not cold part of the house and watering significantly reduced.

More Garden ER Help

Every week, the Garden ER series brings you simple solutions to this season's most pressing problems, for happy and healthy plants without any hassle.

Yellowing Leaves?

Why your houseplant leaves are turning yellow this November, and the simple fix to save your plant's life.

Brown Leaf Tips?

Work out what's behind your ailing spider-plant developing brown tips in fall and nurse your houseplant back to health.

Deter Snakes

Take these proven-to-work steps to make your yard inhospitable to snakes in fall and reduce numbers next year, too.

Save Squash

End rot is a common challenge for winter squash in fall but identify the cause and it's simple to rescue the remaining crop.

Cactus Dropping Leaves?

A lost leaf or two doesn’t spell disaster for a Christmas cactus in fall but you can't afford to ignore this distress signal.

Brown Lawn Patches?

Chafer grubs have devastated drought-stressed lawns this year but are easily treated if catch this crucial fall window.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.) is a popular native perennial, loved for its cheerful, daisy-like flowers with bright yellow petals and contrasting dark centers. As a native flower, this perennial is generally easy to grow, especially once established in the right conditions

One aspect of black-eyed Susan care that can be confusing for gardeners is pruning. Should you deadhead the flowers? Should you cut plants back all the way in winter? How do you trim black-eyed Susans? The answers to these questions, and more, depend on your goals, the time of year, and the types of Rudbeckia.

In our expert guide, we explain when and how to trim and prune black-eyed Susan and answer gardeners’ most frequently asked questions. Careful and timely pruning will keep your plants healthy and coming back year after year.

When to Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans

The timing for pruning black-eyed Susan depends on the reason for doing so. There are a few opportunities throughout the year:

• Summer. Deadhead spent flowers to keep plants blooming for longer.
• Fall. Remove diseased and damaged plant material, but consider leaving healthy stems and seedheads in place to feed wildlife.
• Spring. Cut back the older plant material to make room for new growth.

Even within these parameters, gardeners have some wiggle room. You don’t have to deadhead, for instance. You also don’t have to cut back healthy plants just because the growing season has come to an end.

(Image credit: Getty Images)How to Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans

Exactly how you’ll cut back your plants depends on the specific task, but these are general best practices for routine pruning:

• Always use sharp, clean shears. Felco's F6 Pruning Shears were rated best pruners in our testing, but Fiskars' Bypass Pruning Shears are a reliable budget-friendly pick.
• Follow the flower stem down to a healthy leaf, a side shoot, or the base of the plant to make your cut.
• When removing flowers, make a clean cut just above a healthy leaf node or branching bud.
• Remove dead or broken stems at the base.

Trim off any diseased-looking plant material whenever you see it and dispose of it in the waste, not compost.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Deadheading Black-Eyed Susans in Summer and Early Fall

Deadheading is one of the most useful pruning chores gardeners have at their disposal. Selective removal of spent flowers keeps perennials like black-eyed Susans flowering until seasonal and weather changes start to trigger dormancy.

Remove spent flowers once the petals fade and drop off, or whenever they no longer look tidy or at their peak. Cut the stem under the flower back to the next healthy leaf or side bud.

You can also accompany summer deadheading with a light overall trim if the plant is looking leggy. Trim stems back to side buds or the base, but do so carefully and selectively. Avoid heavy pruning in summer.

Should You Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans in Fall?

As long as the plant looks healthy, you can keep your black-eyed Susan standing in fall and through winter. The standing seedheads provide valuable food for birds in winter and offer some visual interest in winter beds. The plants also provide shelter for beneficial insects.

If your plants don’t look healthy, for instance if you see signs of fungal disease, it’s best to cut them back. Cut all the stems and foliage back to the ground and dispose of it. Don’t put it in the compost pile, as this can spread disease.

You can also cut back plants if you prefer a tidier appearance in winter. This can also help you prevent self-seeding if you don’t want your black-eyed Susans to spread.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Do Different Types of Black-Eyed Susan Need Different Pruning?

Pruning needs are generally similar across types, but there are a few considerations for different black-eyed Susans:

• Rudbeckia fulgida. Also known as orange coneflower, this type is a dependable perennial that readily forms big clumps. You can follow the above guidelines for this species, deadheading in summer, and leaving seedheads in place for winter.
• Rudbeckia hirta. This is the species most often referred to when using the term black-eyed Susan. It is a short-lived perennial that readily self-seeds. If you don’t want it spreading throughout beds, it’s best to deadhead and cut seedheads back before winter.
• Rudbeckia triloba. Brown-eyed Susan is another shorter-lived perennial that re-seeds readily. Whether or not you deadhead and trim back depends on whether you want to fill out your bed with more plants.

Garden Trimming Essentials

Felco F6 Pruning Shears

Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears

Corona Tools Handheld Garden Tool Sharpener

Frequently Asked QuestionsWill Black-Eyed Susans Bloom Again if Cut Back?

Deadheading black-eyed Susans encourages more blooming in the same season. Severely cutting back the plant before it has gone dormant can reduce blooming. Cutting back before winter will not restrict next year’s flowers.

How Far Should I Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans?

For deadheading, cut back to the next healthy leaf or side bud. For seasonal cut-backs, trim stems all the way down to the ground.

Do Black-Eyed Susans Need Pruning Every Year?

Deadheading is optional, but plants should be cut back all the way either in late fall before winter or in spring before or just as new growth emerges.

Should I Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans Before Winter?

Not necessarily. Leaving native perennials in place over winter supports wildlife and offers some visual interest in garden beds. The exception is diseased plants. These should be cut back.

Black-eyed Susan pruning is actually pretty simple. Deadhead in summer to enjoy more flowers and cut back spent material before winter or in early spring. The choice is yours and depends on your preferences, type of plant, and whether or not you support native wildlife.

Baby, baby, baby, oh! Justin Bieber might not be a name we'd usually associate with gardening, but the singer's latest Instagram photo dump has certainly given us food for thought.

Among the snapshots was a glimpse of what looks like a rather dreamy outdoor living space, complete with cozy terrace sofas, an outdoor fireplace and even an outdoor TV screen. But it was another, slightly blurrier photograph that caught this writer's attention: an owl, seemingly a great horned owl (aka the birth month owl for January babies everywhere!), paying a visit to his garden.

A post shared by Justin Bieber (@lilbieber)

A photo posted by

Naturally, this isn't Bieber's first foray into the world of owl appreciation. The singer has had an owl tattoo on his forearm since 2012, with the bird representing wisdom – so it's easy to assume that this latest garden visitor was a particularly welcome sight for him.

Welcome Owls To Your Yard. Justin Bieber-Style

Now, Justin Bieber certainly isn't alone in his fascination with these magnificent birds of prey. Whether it's their haunting calls, striking eyes or wonderfully mysterious reputation, there's something rather special about spotting an owl close to home.

So, if Bieber's feathered visitor has left you wondering how to welcome one of these beautiful birds into your own backyard, the good news is that there are a few things you can do to make your yard more owl-friendly.

Here's where to start.

1. Put Up An Owl Box

One of the best ways to encourage owls into your yard à la Justin Bieber is to give them somewhere safe to nest. Depending on the species in your area, then, installing an owl box could provide just the inviting home they're looking for.

(Image credit: pchoui/Getty Images)

The trick is to figure out which owls are visiting before you buy (or DIY) your nesting box; eastern screech owls, for example, are cavity nesters and will readily use suitably sized nesting boxes. Great horned owls, on the flipside, typically use open nests rather than enclosed boxes.

Once you've researched the requirements of your local owl species, all that's left to do is position your new nesting box high up in a mature tree, somewhere quiet and away from too much human activity.

Shop Owl Nesting Boxes:

JCs Wildlife Recycled Poly Lumber Barred Owl Nesting Box

AnNowshua Ling Owl Houses for Outdoors

BFAZKXY Owl Houses for Outdoors

2. Let Things Go Wild

A perfectly manicured lawn might look lovely, but a slightly wilder yard? Why, that could be much more appealing to visiting owls, as tese birds of prey need somewhere to hunt. (A healthy population of small mammals, such as mice and voles, can provide an important food source).

Try leaving a patch of grass a little longer, planting native grasses and wildflowers, and preserving mature trees wherever possible. Trees offer useful perching and roosting spots (something like the ‘Temple of Bloom’ Seven-Son from Fast Growing Treescould prove just as appealing to nesting hummingbirds as it does owls), while natural vegetation can help support the small mammals that owls feed on.

(Image credit: Larry Keller, Lititz Pa./Getty Images)

Don't worry; you really don't need to let the whole yard run wild (as Justin Bieber's near-immaculate garden proves) – even a small corner can help support local wildlife.

3. Go Dark

Owls are particularly active around dusk and (duh!) during the night, so creating a peaceful and naturally dark environment can help make your yard more welcoming. Consider switching off unnecessary outdoor lights, using motion-sensor lighting where needed, and avoiding bright spotlights that illuminate trees and potential nesting areas throughout the night.

Basically, invest in the kind of garden lighting that reduces light pollution as a rule, and keep it off at night if you want to do your bit. And try, too, keeping noise and disturbance to a minimum around trees and nesting sites.

Shop Wildlife-Friendly Garden Lighting:

WIYIFADA LED Bug Light Bulbs Outdoor 2-Pack

GPATIO Outdoor String Lights, 100ft

L LOHAS LED LED Yellow Flood Light Bulb 2-Pack

4. Rethink Your Pest Control

If you want an owl to visit your garden just as it did Justin Bieber's yard, then it's also important to think carefully about how you eliminate rats.

Rodenticides (rat and mouse poisons) can be dangerous to owls, which may become poisoned after eating contaminated critters. If you want to encourage these beautiful birds into your yard, avoid using rodent poisons, then, and instead opt for safer, more owl-friendly approaches to pest management instead.

If you, like Justin Bieber, are lucky enough to spot an owl in your garden, take care to admire it from a distance rather than approaching or shining a light towards it (and consider investing in a Solar Trail Camera like this one to get your photos). After all, the idea isn't to persuade an owl to become a regular garden guest at any cost, but to create an outdoor space where local wildlife can thrive.

And while there's no guarantee that making these changes will result in an owl visit, you might just find that your garden becomes a little more appealing to some of nature's most fascinating nighttime visitors.

There's precious little time to get out into the garden in the run-up to Christmas, so all the more reason to enjoy a daily gardening fix with a plant-themed advent calendar. Whether your gardening style is growing a sanctuary of cottage-garden blooms or creating a stylish space for outdoor living, there's a Christmas countdown of garden goodies to suit. The joy of opening each door to see what's hiding behind is nearly as wonderful as seeing the first spring bulbs pop up, and who knows what garden adventures these little gifts might inspire!

Which gardening advent calendar is best for you or the gardener in your life?

Garden Tool Set 12 Days of Christmas Countdown Advent Calendar

Terrain Seed Bomb Hanging Ornament 7-Day Christmas Countdown

Flower Bouquet Building Block Christmas Advent Calendar

Yellow Papers Santa in the Garden Illustrated Advent Calendar

Orchid Flower Advent Calendar Building Set Compatible With Lego

Seeds Advent Calendar with 24 Heirloom Perennial Flower Seed Packets

Metropolitan Museum of Art New York Avian Pop-Up Advent Calendar

BBQ Grilling Tools Advent Calendar with Stainless Steel Grilling Accessories

Plant Advent Calendar With 24 Acrylic Hanging Ornaments

Red Cardinal Bird House Christmas Countdown Advent Calendar

Succulents Botanical Building Blocks 24-Day Advent Calendar

The Wild Christmas Nature Advent Calendar Digital Download

Advent Calendar with 24 Mini Ceramic Floral Vase Fridge Magnets

Birds Advent Calendar with 24 Mini Jigsaw Puzzles, 1000 Pieces Total

Talking Trees Books Co. Winter Solstice in the Secret Garden Advent Calendar

Bird Advent Calendar with 24 2D Acrylic Hanging Tree Decorations

Twinings Tea Advent Calendar with 24 Flavours for Tea Lovers

Amber Wind Studio Botanical Advent Calendar with Necklace, Artwork and Dried Flowers

Anthropologie Roger La Borde Pop & Slot Snow Scene Advent Calendar

Lavender At-Home Spa Experience Advent Calendar

Imagine arriving for a medical appointment and finding a room that looks more like a beautiful home than a clinic. Instead of rows of plastic chairs or harsh fluorescent lighting, there’s a comfortable sofa, a place to make tea, interesting artwork and warm, inviting colours.

These are some of the details being explored by two B.C. design studios, each approaching health care with ideas borrowed from residential interiors and hospitality.

At Vancouver’s Everwell wellness clinic, Jessica MacDonald and Kate Snyder, co-founders and co-creative directors of Studio Roslyn, have created a richly layered interior inspired by nature, traditional healing practices and the comforts of home.

In Squamish, Josianne Berube, partner and registered interior designer at STARK Architecture & Interiors, has helped create a different esthetic at Creekside Health, using colour, natural maple, carefully placed lighting and acoustics to make a medical visit feel less institutional.

Small freedoms

One of the more interesting ideas behind both projects is creating health care environments that give patients back a little control.

Consider the ordinary waiting room. Chairs are arranged in rows, often facing one direction. There’s little choice about where to sit or how to spend the time.

At Creekside Health, built-in terracotta banquettes follow the windows. Low yellow tables provide space for children, while a tea and water station allows patients to help themselves.

“Illness removes choice. You are told when to arrive, where to wait and when it is your turn. A space can’t change that, but it can return some control in the moments in between, and this is where STARK’s residential thinking made the greatest difference,” says Berube.

At Everwell, patients can browse wellness products or settle into the reception area before an appointment. In the IV treatment rooms, lounge chairs have pillows that patients can arrange themselves.

“Having those choices, even small ones, can help people feel more at ease,” says MacDonald.

Good from all angles

Something a lot of people never consider is how different a room looks when you’re viewing it from a bed.

The practitioner generally stands, while the patient may be lying down, vulnerable or partially undressed. Overhead lighting, equipment and the way a room is arranged can reinforce this uncomfortable imbalance.

STARK considered this relationship at Creekside, choosing gentle light that falls down the walls rather than directly onto patients. Blue cabinetry and subdued artwork offer something pleasant to look at.

Privacy also extends beyond the door. Acoustic detailing prevents conversations from travelling between rooms, allowing patients to discuss personal matters without wondering who might overhear.

At Everwell, the treatment rooms feature thick drapery, vintage artwork, wooden side tables and soft furniture. Even the walls incorporate unexpected finishes, including bronze paint, bobbin trim and smoked mirror.

Snyder says the challenge is to make these environments welcoming without sacrificing their medical function.

“It’s about finding a balance between comfort and confidence in the care being provided,” she says.

Forgotten spaces

A clinic’s hallways, bathrooms and even its exit deserve as much consideration as its treatment rooms.

At Everwell, a dark patterned carpet runs along the central hallway and continues up the end wall, meeting a brown-painted ceiling. The effect is enveloping, rather than the exposed, brightly lit corridor associated with conventional medical buildings.

At Creekside, the accessible washroom receives the same attention as a boutique hotel bathroom, with terracotta and light blue finishes.

Someone leaving a difficult medical appointment may need a moment to collect themselves before returning to the outside world.

Creekside’s design offers a separate bench near reception, away from the main waiting area, where patients can pause or arrange a followup appointment. Glass block at the reception desk provides a degree of discretion.

These practical considerations extend to staff, too. Creekside’s treatment rooms have sinks and integrated cabinetry to keep supplies close, while a dedicated staff room provides somewhere to eat and take a break.

Good design needn’t cost a fortune

Both studios challenge the assumption that welcoming health care environments require lavish budgets.

At Everwell, forest green, deep brown and limewash finishes distinguish different areas and help visitors navigate the open-plan clinic.

“Paint, for example, can be a relatively economical way to create warmth and define different areas within a space,” says MacDonald.

At Creekside, flexible treatment rooms accommodate family medicine, counselling, acupuncture and massage within approximately 2,130 square feet. Lighting is concentrated where it’s needed rather than uniformly distributed.

The designers also question whether the comforts associated with private clinics should remain largely absent from public health care.

“I don’t think a welcoming, thoughtfully designed health care environment should be considered a luxury. Everyone deserves to feel comfortable and respected in spaces where they’re receiving care,” says MacDonald.

“The most meaningful improvements come from decisions rather than spending. Colour costs no more than white. A thoughtful plan costs no more than a less considered one. Placing light where it is needed, rather than simply adding more of it, often costs less,” says Berube.

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