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There’s something about fall that naturally inspires new beginnings and makes us want to head off in new directions. With the arrival of brisk breezes, shifting colors and falling leaves, we often feel the urge to rearrange living spaces, including those outdoors. While spring gets most of the glory for planting, autumn is a great season for dividing, moving and relocating key established ornamentals.

If you do transplant these perennials and shrubs now, you can take advantage of unique conditions. Fall brings cool air that reduces transpiration and moisture stress, while the soil remains warm from months of sun, and depending on where you live, you’ll be seeing more rainfall. This means relocated plants have time to establish strong roots before winter sets in, and it reduces transplant shock.

Rather than wasting energy recovering from a disruptive spring move, a fall-transplanted perennial can hit the ground running early next year. This doesn’t apply to every single plant, but if you have overcrowded perennials, let’s go! By giving key plants a fresh start this October, you boost their long-term health, enhance your curb appeal, and set your yard up for its finest season yet.

Why Fall is the Best Time to Move

In my experience, it’s pretty rare to add a perennial or shrub and simply leave it in place untouched for the next decade. As landscapes mature, light patterns shift, beds crowd each other out, and soil nutrients may deplete. I plant perennials knowing that it’s very likely my hostas or peonies will, in time, need to be relocated. But that doesn’t bother me at all. It’s like kids outgrowing their shoes: relocating is a natural, normal part of growth and healthy backyard care.

Fall is considered the best season for transplanting. We have touched on changes in weather, and this generally means transplants won’t burn or dry out quickly. During spring, plants funnel energy into expanding leaves, shoots, and flower buds. If you dig up a plant in spring, you sever its feeder roots when energy demands are peak. In fall, though, top growth declines or enters dormancy, allowing the plant to redirect energy into root growth and cellular repair, which is exactly what transplants need.

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

While the air is cooler, the soil is still warm from summer sun. Depending on your USDA hardiness zone, this is ideal for the root growth. Plants transplanted in fall have a strong root network by spring. Also, it may not rain every day, but autumn brings more rain than summer. Plants prefer rainwater to tap water, and regular moisture favors root development. You can check ground levels before transplanting by using a diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter, available from Amazon.

Insect populations peak in summer and decline in fall, which means that your plants won’t have to be fighting aphids, mites or root-chewing grubs. This means newly moved plants won't have to battle active pest pressure while establishing in the vulnerable time after transplanting. Before moving these plants, just be sure to prepare the new site. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and enrich the backfill with rich compost or worm castings to ensure smooth, stress-free root expansion of the following plants…

Plants to Move in October

Fall transplanting isn't ideal for every plant. Keep your garden gloves off tender perennials such as dahlias, gladioli, and tropical hibiscus. You should also avoid plants with deep taproots, like false indigo or butterfly weed, and broadleaf evergreens such as boxwoods, rhododendrons, and gardenias. Broadleaf evergreens retain leaves all winter and can dry out if their roots are disturbed now. However, these 6 stars are receptive to an October move. Many can be divided at the same time, giving you free extra plants to spread around borders or share with friends.

1. Hostas

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Hostas are amongst the easiest and most forgiving perennials to transplant or divide this month. Move them in fall, 4-6 weeks before your region's first hard ground freeze. This takes advantage of warm soil, while cool air prevents large leaves from scorching. A major benefit of an October move is visual. Top growth is often visible before heavy frosts flatten the leaves, helping you to position the plant exactly where you want it. Hostas work well in dappled shade, alongside ferns or coral bells.

Prepare the new site first by adding some organic leaf mold or compost into the soil. Use a sharp spade or fork to dig a ring around the outer drip line. Lift the root ball out gently. If the crown is overcrowded, slice it into smaller divisions using a sharp knife, ensuring each piece retains fleshy roots and a few eye buds. Replant at the original depth, water deeply, and apply a 2-inch (5cm) layer of organic mulch. If you need a good knife, try the versatile Fiskars Hori Hori Knife, available from Walmart. Its serrated edge is ideal for slicing through thick divisions with minimal damage.

2. Peonies

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Whether you are growing classic herbaceous peonies like Sarah Bernhardt or sturdy Itoh intersectional hybrids, this month is a great time for transplanting and division. Peonies (Paeonia spp.) dislike being moved during active spring growth, but in autumn they are entering dormancy. Moving them now gives roots time to anchor into the soil before it freezes, without the stress of supporting top foliage.

Once the foliage turns bronze or wilts after early frosts, cut the stems back to roughly 2 inches (5cm) above the ground. Carefully dig around the root mass, lifting the plant without snapping the thick roots. Rinse off any excess soil to expose the pink eyes (these are the dormant buds). If dividing, use a clean knife to create sections with at least 3-5 strong eyes and a generous root.

Replant in a sunny, well-draining spot, making sure the eyes sit no deeper than 1-2 inches (2.5-5cm) below the surface. Give your peonies a gentle, slow-release phosphorus and calcium boost by adding a handful of Down To Earth Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s.

3. Bearded Irises

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If you live in a mild or moderate climate, then you can relocate crowded bearded iris (Iris germanica) this month, provided you get them settled at least 4 weeks before severe freezes so roots have time to establish. Transplanting allows you to relocate bearded iris plants to sunnier garden spots and eliminate iris borer eggs or leaf spot fungal spores that can hide in old foliage over winter.

Dig up the plant using a garden fork, shaking away loose soil. Slice or snap the healthy outer rhizomes from the central mass, throwing away the central rhizome. Inspect each piece for soft spots or borer holes, discarding damaged sections. Trim the leaves back into an inverted V shape 4-6 inches (10-15cm) tall to reduce wind rock and stress. Replant in full sun, settling the roots over a small soil mound in the planting hole. Make sure the tops of the rhizomes are slightly above the soil surface.

Add a light mulch, such as team favorite Back to the Roots Organic Premium Wood Mulch from Amazon, to reduce the risk of frost-heave. However, it’s not a good idea to divide plants at this time. Wait until late summer, after the flowers fade.

4. Daylilies

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Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are legendary for their resilient nature, and in moderate climates (zones 4-9) you can transplant and divide them during October. Just make sure you do this 4 weeks before the first hard frost. Over time, daylily clumps get so densely packed that flower production can drop off. Moving and dividing every 3-5 years restores vigor, resulting in larger flower scapes and a longer bloom season.

Before digging up your daylily, trim the foliage back by half to make it easier to manage. Insert your spade beneath the root ball and lever the plant out. Pull the thick, fleshy roots apart by hand or use two back-to-back pitchforks to pry the clump into divisions. Prepare your new planting hole by adding a handful of earthworm castings, such as Earth Science Earthworm Castings from Amazon. Drape the roots over the mound. Position the plant so the crown sits an inch (2.5cm) below the surface. Backfill, press firmly, water well and mulch.

5. Hydrangeas

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Moving a large hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) in midsummer can lead to severe wilt and leaf scorching. However, moving one in late October is fine, as long as your shrub has stopped flowering or entered dormancy. Whether you are relocating a bigleaf (H. macrophylla), panicle (H. paniculata), or oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia), transplanting your hydrangea this month gives the extensive root system time to settle into cool, moist soil before pushing out heavy spring leaves.

Select a new location that offers morning sun and afternoon shade, and water the hydrangea deeply 24 hours before moving. Hydrangeas have broad roots that grow wide rather than deep, so dig a wide trench around the outer branch perimeter. Lift the root ball with as much soil as possible. Transfer to the new hole at its original growing depth, backfill with native soil and organic compost, and tamp. Apply a gentle, diluted seaweed drench, such as GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp from Walmart, to minimize shock after transplanting your hydrangea. Insulate the base with 3 inches (8cm) of organic wood mulch to retain moisture through winter.

6. Roses

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Roses (Rosa spp.) respond well to a late October move, provided the shrub has begun entering semi-dormancy following its final bloom flush. Relocating a rose in fall allows cut root ends to callus over and sprout fine feeder roots in warm soil, giving the plant a massive jumpstart over bare-root roses planted in spring.

Prepare the new planting hole in a bright, sunny spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Blend in some well-rotted compost, or optionally condition the soil with a little Wakefield Biochar Premium Soil Conditioner, available from Lowe’s. This enhances aeration and water retention around deep rose roots. Make sure you water your rose bush the day before digging. Prune top growth back by a third to a half. This makes canes easier to handle and balances top weight with root loss.

Using a spade, dig a deep circle around the root ball, angling the blade inward to preserve the main taproot and roots. Lift the rose and transfer to the new site. Make sure the graft union (the bump at the base of the stems) sits 2 inches (5cm) below the soil in colder regions for winter protection. Backfill, press firmly, and water deeply.

(Image credit: Mariia Siurtukova / Getty Images)

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Fall is a great time to start a vegetable garden if you’ve never grown your own before, and these compact crops will bring an abundant harvest in a small space. Sow in October and growing vegetables is so easy as you don’t have to worry about pests or remembering to water your plants every day, and you can still raise plenty of tasty crops at this time of the year. You won’t have to wait long to enjoy your very first harvest, either, and just wait till you taste the difference between homegrown and shop-bought!

The secret to start growing your own vegetables in October is to use a raised bed or planter. Gardening in raised beds is so much more straightforward than growing veggies in the ground as it doesn’t matter a jot what your soil is like as you can instantly create perfect conditions with a tailored potting mix like Miracle-Gro Organic Raised Bed Soil, available from Lowe's.

Another big advantage to growing fall-sown veggies in a raised bed is that you can position the planter in a sheltered, sunny spot to help plants grow well in shorter days and cooler temperatures. You could even place it right up against a house wall to take advantage of your home's heat, and this also makes it simple to throw a layer of horticultural fleece over the top if you need to keep young seedlings cozy through a cold snap.

There are plenty of small-space veggies that thrive in a container, but here's my pick of the best vegetables to sow in October – all compact enough to flourish in a raised bed – if you want to grow your own this fall. So don’t keep dreaming about doing it done day – do it today!

Veggies to Sow in October

All these vegetable varieties are cold-tolerant, but tailor your choice to your zone. Position your raised bed in a warm, sheltered area of your garden and you can absolutely cheat zone recommendations to successfully grow winter crops. I would happily grow all these varieties in Zone 7 and above, and if you live in a colder zone simply choose a covered raised bed (you'll find my recommendations below) or be ready with a duvet of horticultural fleece (ditto!) when temperatures plummet, and give it a go: for the price of a packet of seeds, it’s well worth the risk.

1. Meteor Peas

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Think you can’t grow peas through winter? Think again! ‘Meteor’ is an exceptionally hardy variety that’s been bred to withstand freezing temperatures so is one of the best vegetables to sow in fall, with seeds that are smooth and round so resist rot in cool wet soil far better than traditional wrinkled types. What’s more, this variety only grows to a bushy 18 inches high (rather than the wild tangle of 6-feet-high stems of many pea cultivars) so it’s a great choice for a small space. Just push some twiggy sticks into the soil when you sow and the plants will look after themselves.

While you’ll have to wait until May to enjoy the fresh peapods, the plants will get busy through fall growing a strong root system, ready to burst into growth in early spring for an early harvest. And the big advantage of a fall sowing is that you won’t have to net your plants against the pea moth, a pest notorious for ruining summer pea crops. Meteor pea seeds are available from Mr Fothergills USA.

2. Atomic Red Carrots

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Carrot crops are normally sown in spring and summer but ‘Atomic Red’ is a cool-season specialist that flourishes in low temperatures. And just look at that color! Atomic Red is fully frost-tolerant and fast to grow so in milder zones you could be harvesting around 80 days after an October sowing. In colder climates, plants won’t crop until spring but the harvest will be well worth the wait: cool temperatures make the plant convert its starches into sugars to act as a protective antifreeze, so the carrots taste beautifully sweet.

As well as great flavor, Atomic Red carrots also keep their striking coral-scarlet color through cooking. With roots growing up to 11 inches long, this variety is the perfect size for a raised bed, where the loose soil will favour long, straight carrots. A fall sowing means there’s zero threat from pesky carrot flies, too. Atomic Red carrot seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

3. Dwarf Siberian Kale

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The name tells you everything you need to know about this small but hardy veggie! While standard kale varieties can reach up to 3 feet tall, Dwarf Siberian kale stays at a tidy 15 inches high so it’s a smart choice for a raised planter. It survives freezing temperatures and is super-tasty too, staying tender and mild (unlike some of its curly-kale cousins that can grow tough and bitter) and becoming sweetener when exposed to fall frosts.

Young leaves can be eaten raw in salads and smoothies and if you sow in October you'll be enjoying these by late November or December – or wait a few more weeks for mature leaves to sauté with a little garlic and oil. Just be sure to only harvest the outer leaves, leaving the central crown intact, so the plants keep producing as a cut-and-come-again crop. Dwarf Siberian kale seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

4. California Early Garlic

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Homegrown garlic is a delight so you should definitely find room in your raised bed to plant some cloves. Softneck garlic is best in a small space and the incredibly reliable ‘California Early’ is a perfect choice if you're at the start of your veggie-growing journey. It's very easy to grow and has a highly compact, vertical habit so you can pack plenty into your bed. California Early matures around June, too, clearing your veggie bed in time for mid-summer sowings of other crops.

Because it’s a softneck variety, California Early garlic doesn’t need the long period of freezing weather that hardneck varieties do to form cloves, which means it’ll still form plump bulbs in the warmer conditions of a sheltered raised bed. A raised bed also means you can plant a little deeper than usual, which is the expert secret to growing garlic with the plumpest cloves, even if this your first time growing this crop. California Early garlic bulbs are available from Walmart.

5. Vit Corn Salad

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Being able to pick fresh greens for a winter salad is such a joy, and the taste is a far cry from the disinfected leaves sold in many grocery stores. Also known as lambs lettuce and mache, corn salad is the easiest to grow through fall and winter and ‘Vit’ is my pick for glossy, tender leaves with a gourmet nutty flavor.

This French variety is so easy to grow as it’s vigorous and naturally resistant to mildew and, as it only grows to 6 inches high in upright rosettes, it’s a great crop to squeeze in between bigger plants. Vit is incredibly resilient in cold temperatures and quick to crop too, ready to eat in around 50 days. As well as eating mache raw, you can cook the leaves as you would spinach. Organic Vit corn salad seeds are available from Burpee.

6. Purple Plum Radish

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Before you brush off the idea of growing radishes, hold up! Have you ever tasted a homegrown radish? Because it’s nothing short of amazing! ‘Purple Plum’ is my pick for an October sowing because this cool-season specialist crops incredibly quickly and, in a warm, sunny spot, you could be harvesting these little heirloom beauties within a month.

Purple Plum radishes are a super choice for a small space because their roots reach peak crunch when they’re just 1½ inches wide. As they’re so quick to crop, you can squeeze them in around slower-maturing crops, too. Another good reason to choose Purple Plum for an October sowing is that – unlike most other radish varieties – they don’t become woody or pithy in damp fall soil if you don’t get round to picking them at the perfect moment.

This is another vegetable that gets sweeter when touched by fall frosts, too, and you can also eat the radish tops, raw in salads or tossed into winter stir fries. Purple Plum radish seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

7. Astro Arugula

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Another must for a fall sowing is arugula. One packet of seeds will provide a wealth of peppery leaves for salads and garnishes, or try making a zingy spring-is-coming pesto by swapping out basil for arugula. ‘Astro’ is the variety to reach for when sowing in October as it still germinates quickly in cool fall soil and, unlike many other arugula, keeps producing its flavorful green leaves once daylight hours drop below 10 hours a day. It tastes good, too, with a smooth, nutty flavor and a mild peppery bite.

While Astro arugula can tolerate light frosts, growth will slow and speed as temperatures lower and rise, or you can keep a steady supply coming by popping a clear plastic cloche or horticultural fleece over your crop. While you can leave foliage to grow up to 18 inches high, a big advantage to growing your own is that you can pick oh-so tender and tasty leaves when they’re around 4 inches high, and the plant will quickly grow more of this cut-and-come-again crop. Astro arugula seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

Which is the Right Raised Bed for Me?

To successfully grow veggies in a raised bed, the planter needs to be at least 8 inches deep, and ideally a little deeper. However, few crops need more than an 18-inch depth of soil to grow well, and it's expensive to fill a very deep planter with potting soil. If you want to grow deep-rooting crops such as potatoes and heavy feeders like zucchini, it’s much more cost-effective to grow these separately in deep fabric planters, or choose an open-based planter that allows roots to grow into the ground.

If You Live in a Cooler Zone

Choose a raised planter with a built-in cover that makes it easy to keep fall-sown seeds warm for fast germination and shield plants from plummeting temperatures.

Giantex Galvanized Raised Bed With Mini Greenhouse

This mini greenhouse is separate to the 68” x 33” x 12.5” open-base planter, so is easily removed once weather improves in spring. It allows easy access to your crops and excellent airflow with huge roll-up windows, too.

Arlmont & Co. Jordin Raised Planter With Cover

With a planter box that’s just deep enough at 41” x 20.5” x 10.25”, this raised planter has a liner to prevent dirt from falling through the drainage holes and a tall mini-greenhouse cover with roll-up door.

King Bird Raised Garden Bed With Cover

This durable open-base 6’ x 3’ x 1” galvanised oval planter comes with a frame to hold the zippered screen. If you have hungry critters in your garden, this set-up will protect seedlings from becoming snacks, too.

If You’re Growing Veg on a Patio or Deck

Growing veggies on your patio means you can use the warmth and shelter of your house to keep plants cozy through winter. Dark-toned paving also absorbs the sun’s heat during the day then releases it later, so a patio often escapes frost, too. If you need to shelter plants during cold snaps, simply throw a lightweight plant cover or horticultural fleece over the planter. Choose one that allows sunlight and air to pass through, like this Harvest-Guard Cover from Walmart, and you can leave it on day and night.

VegTrug Classic 1.8m Raised Bed Cedar Wood Planter

If you’re serious about growing veggies long-term then the clever design of this durable planter means you can still grow deep-root crops without spending a fortune on soil. A smaller size is available.

Mobile Raised Garden Bed With Wheels

A wheeled raised bed makes it easy to move your veggies to a sheltered spot over winter and this 37.4” x 15.7” 8.27” planter is just the job for dipping your toe into growing leafy greens and shallow root crops.

Keter Easy Grow Raised Garden Bed

This smart wicker-look planter offers a good planting depth for a compact space, and a water reservoir and gauge make it easy to get irrigation right. A drainage tap makes this suitable for a balcony or indoors too.

If You’re on a Budget

Starting a veggie bed needn’t be expensive if you opt for an open-base raised metal planter that allows plants to grow down into the soil. There are all sorts of shapes and sizes available, of varying quality, so shop smart: only buy galvanised steel (and it’s a bonus if it’s powder-coated), check for central support strips that span the planter for added strength, and look for a protective strip running around the top edge for your own comfort.

You can buy drawstring frost covers to fit most sizes of these raised beds, such as this Raised Bed Frost Cover with Insulating Aluminium Liner from Walmart, that are quick and easy to pop on and off during cold snaps.

Arlmont & Co. Galvanized Raised Garden Bed

Measuring a generous 6’ x 3’ x 1’, this galvanized metal planter box gives you lots of growing space at a great price. It’s powder-coated for durability in a smart charcoal gray and features safety edging and anti-rust screws.

Utopia Home Galvanized Raised Garden Bed Kit

This well-priced 4’ x 2’ x 1’ galvanized raised bed kit is a great size for a starter veg patch and comes with all the tools and screws you need for assembly. It has a protective rubber edge and a central support strip.

Raised Oval Metal Outdoor Planter Kit

You'll often find great deals on open-based planters with more unusual dimensions at the end of peak growing season, like this 8’ x 2’ x 17” rust-resistant bed in olive green, with support bars and a protective rim.

From classic spooky faces to floral designs and pop culture-inspired creations, there are so many options when it comes to choosing your Halloween vibe – but what if your birth month pumpkin could help you narrow things down?

That's right, folks! Halloween is just around the corner, and if you’re still deciding what to do with your pumpkin, there’s a pumpkin style written in the stars for you.

Of course, if you're anything like this author, then you likely already know your birth month bird, birth month animal, birth month tree, and birth month bug, but 'tis the season to be spooky, after all! (Which, you know, explains why we're suddenly so obsessed with our birth month owls and birth month spiders). Jack-o'-lanterns, then, feel like the natural next step.

All 12 Birth Month Pumpkins

Whether you’re a fan of traditional spooky decorations or prefer something a little more creative, there’s a birth month pumpkin to match every personality.

So, grab your carving tools (or a paintbrush) and discover which carving design you should be using this Halloween...

January – The Classic Spooky Face

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If you're a January baby, then your birth month pumpkin is a classic for a reason! You like to keep things traditional, and when it comes to Halloween, you know you can’t go wrong with the classics. A sinister grin, triangular eyes and a flickering candle inside? Why, they're all you need to create the ultimate Halloween pumpkin.

Your practical nature means you’d rather perfect a timeless design than follow every passing trend. After all, some things never go out of style.

Shop Pumpkin Carving Essentials:

Elmchee Halloween Pumpkin Carving Tools

Independently Published Pumpkin Carving Stencils: 50 Halloween Templates for Carving Pumpkins, Decorating and Painting Crafts

Luditek Halloween Led Pumpkin Lights With Remote and Timer

February – The Spider

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Unconventional, a little mysterious and never afraid to stand out, those born in February need a pumpkin with a twist. A spider design, complete with long spindly legs stretching across the pumpkin, is just the thing! After all, you’ve never been one to settle for ordinary.

Bonus points if you add a few smaller carved spiders or faux cobwebs around the base of your birth month pumpkin. And don't forget to smear some Vaseline to the carved edges to keep it looking its best for longer!

March – The Floral Pumpkin

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Born in March? You have a creative, imaginative side, so a birth month pumpkin covered in carved flowers, swirling vines and delicate leaves is right up your street. Think intricate patterns that let candlelight shine through, creating a soft and magical glow.

I know, I know, but who says Halloween decorations have to be scary, right? Equal parts autumnal and enchanting, this is guaranteed to hold its own among all the neighborhood decorations.

Shop Pumpkin Seeds To Plant For Next Year:

Burpee.com Porcelain Princess Pumpkin - 10 Seeds

Burpee Gardening Triple Treat Pumpkin - 100 Seeds

Burpee.com Mrs. Wrinkles Pumpkin - 10 Seeds

April – The Monster Face

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bold, playful and a little unpredictable, you’re not afraid to have fun with Halloween. A monster-inspired design, complete with jagged teeth, wonky eyes and an exaggerated expression, is the birth month pumpkin, then, that perfectly captures your energetic personality.

Honestly, the messier and more mischievous the grin, the better. You're here to make an impression, not play it safe (and extra points if you can have your monster chomping on a smaller pumpkin, in the style of the image above!).

May – The Painted Pumpkin

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Why carve when you can paint? You appreciate the finer details, so a beautifully painted pumpkin is your ideal Halloween party project. Think elegant black-and-white patterns, metallic gold accents or a rich autumnal colour palette.

If this is your birth month pumpkin, then you like things that look considered and stylish, and a painted pumpkin lets you create something special without covering your hands in pumpkin guts. Just be sure to pick up something like this Caliart Acrylic Paint Set of 24 Colors with 12 Brushes, as some other paints will just slide right off.

June – The Pop Culture Pumpkin

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Born in June? Figured as much! You love a conversation starter, so why not turn your pumpkin into a tribute to your favourite film, TV show or character? From a recognisable character silhouette to an iconic symbol, there are endless ways to bring your fandom to life (although we're quite partial to the above tribute to Obsession!).

Whether you opt for a nostalgic favourite or the latest pop culture obsession, your birth month pumpkin is guaranteed to get people talking. it may be a little fiddly, though, so I recommend sketching it out properly before you get cracking.

July – The Smiling Pumpkin

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Warm, sociable and full of personality, you need a birth month pumpkin that makes people smile. For you, then, the goal is a big cheerful grin, rounded eyes and perhaps a few quirky details (like the teeth seen above), all of which will give your creation a welcoming and playful feel.

Hey, it makes a lot of sense! You are, after all, all about bringing people together, so your pumpkin should be just as inviting as your Halloween gathering.

August – The Sugar Skull Pumpkin

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Hardworking, ambitious and never one to shy away from a challenge, August babies need a birth month pumpkin that makes a statement. Inspired by the colorful sugar skulls associated with Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), this design features intricate floral patterns, decorative swirls and bold colours that transform an ordinary pumpkin into a work of art.

Take your time with the details, experimenting with vibrant paints, symmetrical patterns and marigold-inspired flowers. The more elaborate the design, the better – this is your chance to show off your creativity and create a pumpkin that's guaranteed to turn heads.

September – The Cat Pumpkin

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Intelligent, organized and with an eye for detail, you appreciate a design that requires a little patience. A pumpkin carved with the silhouette of a sleek black cat, complete with pointed ears, an elegant curled tail and carefully cut-out whiskers, is the perfect way to put your precision to the test (or, failing that, a cute cat face as per the above!).

Take your time mapping out the design before you start carving, making sure every line is just right. You could even add a crescent moon or tiny stars for an extra decorative touch.

October – The Celestial Pumpkin

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Halloween falls in October, so it makes sense that your birth month pumpkin is a real doozy! Charming, sociable and naturally drawn to beautiful things, you need crescent moons, delicate stars and intricate celestial patterns, painted in gold and silver against a midnight-black background, or carefully carved to let the candlelight shine through.

The result? A sophisticated and eye-catching design that's guaranteed to be a conversation starter at any Halloween gathering.

November – The Pumpkin Fairy House

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Empathetic, passionate and with a mysterious side, you love the idea of a little magic hiding just beneath the surface. Enter stage left, then, a birth month pumpkin pumpkin transformed into a tiny fairy cottage, complete with a carved doorway, glowing windows and a winding trail of vines.

Take your design a step further with miniature details, such as a tiny chimney, a moss-covered roof or little mushrooms (you could even copy your birth month mushroom!) nestled around the base. Add a flickering LED light inside to make the windows glow, creating an enchanting scene that looks as though a woodland fairy might appear at any moment.

Shop Pumpkin Fairy House Essentials:

Toromiu Fairy Door and Windows

Tin Roof Treasure Super Fairy Garden Assortment Moss and Lichen

FlamingoCasa Mushroom Decor Fairy Garden Accessories

December – The Ghost Pumpkin

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Generous, optimistic and always up for an adventure, December babies are never afraid to try something a little different. Which means (obviously) that a cheeky ghost pumpkin, complete with a wavy silhouette, playful eyes and a mischievous grin, is the perfect way to bring some fun to your Halloween display.

Don't be afraid to experiment with an unusual shape or a more elaborate design. After all, you like to take risks, and Halloween is the perfect excuse to let your creative side run wild.

So, which birth month pumpkin design will you be trying? Whether you stick to a classic jack-o'-lantern or try something a little more adventurous this year, the honest truth of the matter is this: the very best Halloween pumpkin is the one that lets your personality shine through.

Happy carving!

Hostas (Hosta spp.) are beloved backyard staples. Celebrated for their lush foliage, incredible leaf variety and excellent shade tolerance, these reliable perennials make a big impact from spring through late summer into fall. However, as October rolls in, with shorter daylight hours and potentially the season's first frosts, these blue-green leaves beauties begin to yellow, collapse, and prepare for dormancy.

While it might be tempting to view fall as a time to step back, this is a pivotal month for hosta care. Proper fall maintenance goes far beyond basic backyard tidiness and cleaning up your beds. The right interventions now can protect plant crowns, prevent overwintering pests, and reduce fungal spores. The right October care for hostas can be a vital investment in next spring’s finest plants.

Because hosta varieties vary widely, from massive Empress Wu to miniature Blue Mouse Ears, your plants may transition into dormancy at slightly different rates. But if you adjust the timings according to your hardiness zone and weather, these essential tasks will help you set the stage for an explosion of lush foliage next spring.

Best Hosta Care in October

October marks an important transition for your hostas. Above ground, the lush leaves stop photosynthesizing and begin transferring their stored starches down into the roots and crowns. This means lots of yellowing leaves, eventual foliage loss, and plant dormancy. Below ground, energy reserves fuel the development of dormant eyes (buds) that will push up as fresh leaves next April.

Understanding your local weather patterns and USDA hardiness zone is essential for timing the following tasks correctly. In colder northern climates (zones 3-5), heavy frosts often arrive by mid-month, signaling an earlier start to cutting back foliage and insulating crowns. In milder southern regions (zones 6-8), hostas may hold green leaves for a few more weeks, requiring a more gradual approach to fall cleanup.

(Image credit: Eerik / Getty Images)

Both in-ground hosta plantings and container-grown specimens require help before winter sets in. Taking time this month to check in with plant health, inspect leaf debris for pests, and prepare potted plants for freezing temperatures ensures every hosta in your yard enjoys a peaceful, protected dormancy. If you’re unsure about soil moisture, use the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter, available from Amazon, to get a heads-up about ground conditions before you start these tasks.

1. Reduce Watering and Stop Feeding

(Image credit: Olena Ostapova / Getty Images)

Your hostas are naturally preparing for a period of rest this month, so you don’t want to encourage growth right now. So stop applying nitrogen-rich fertilizers in early fall and help them rest. Feeding hostas in October encourages a sudden flush of soft leaf growth that cannot harden off before winter, wasting vital energy that the plant needs for dormancy and leaving the crown vulnerable to severe freeze damage. It’s not a bad idea to add a tiny sprinkle of a diluted seaweed tonic, such as GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp from Walmart, to help winterize roots, but that’s enough.

You also need to adjust and reduce hosta watering this month. While hostas needed consistent moisture in summer to keep their large leaves plump and turgid, autumn rainfall and cooler temperatures reduce soil evaporation. When you do want to water, check the top couple of inches (5cm) of soil first. If it feels damp, hold off. Only water during dry spells to keep roots from desiccating before the ground freezes. Once the topsoil freezes in late fall, stop watering completely until spring thaw.

2. Wait Until First Frost to Cut Back

(Image credit: Andrew Klafter / Getty Images)

There is some debate among gardeners as to whether or not you need to trim or prune hostas in fall, but if you do, timing matters. As long as you can see a leaf has some green or yellowish-green color, it is still working at converting light into energy and pumping those energy reserves down into the roots for next year’s growth. If you cut this process short by trimming back foliage prematurely, you risk starving the plant, resulting in smaller crowns and weaker leaf development next spring.

Even if they look raggedy, you need to wait until the leaves are clearly dead. For many, this happens after the first frosts of fall. At this point, you can use clean, sharp bypass pruners or grass shears to cut the leaf stems back to roughly 1-2 inches (2.5-5cm) above the ground. Make sure to wipe your pruners before and after use to reduce the risk of cross-contamination with a little isopropyl alcohol or some wipes, such as Clorox Disinfecting Wipes from Lowe’s.

Take care not to slice into the main crown or damage dormant eye buds sitting at the soil surface. Varieties with thick, corrugated leaves, like Frances Williams or Sieboldiana, may take longer to collapse than thin-leaved varieties, so be patient and adjust your cutting time accordingly.

3. Clean up Dead Leaves

(Image credit: TonyBaggett / Getty Images)

A good fall cleanup is the best way to protect hostas from slugs and fungal disease. Fungal spores love to overwinter in decaying hosta foliage. When hosta leaves die back and collapse, this soggy blanket also creates the ultimate winter resort for slugs and snails. Slugs lay clusters of tiny eggs beneath the collapsed foliage, and these can hatch right when tender hosta shoots are emerging come spring.

Once the leaves have died, trim them back and pick up all the debris around the plants. Rake up all dead leaf material, spent flower stalks, and surrounding leaf litter. If the removed foliage was healthy, it can be composted. However, if you see leaf spots, crown decay, or pest damage, dispose in the trash to reduce the risk of spreading pathogens. For a gentle soil amendment, add a sprinkle of Down to Earth Crab Meal, from Amazon, which can help soil microbes break down pathogens.

4. Divide Big Hosta Clumps

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

October can be a good time for dividing overgrown hosta clumps, provided you live in a moderate or warm climate (zones 6-8). Dividing in fall means the separated sections have time to settle before winter hits (ideally, they need 4-6 weeks before the first hard freeze). However, if you are in northern regions (zones 3-5) where the ground freezes solid by November, it’s best to postpone division until spring.

To divide a mature clump, wait until foliage begins to yellow. Carefully lift using a garden fork. Using a sharp serrated knife, slice the crown into sections, ensuring each division has a cluster of roots and 2-3 dormant eyes. If you need a good knife, try the versatile and highly rated Fiskars Hori Hori Knife, available from Walmart. Replant the divisions immediately at the same depth as the original plant, firming the soil and watering thoroughly. Hostas are long-lived perennials that only require division every 3-5 years when their centers become crowded or hollow.

5. Mulch and Add Markers

(Image credit: Larisa Stefanuyk / Getty Images)

Applying a winter mulch over tidy beds protects delicate crowns from the dangers of frost heaving. Frost heaving occurs when freeze-thaw cycles cause the ground to lift shallow roots out of the ground, exposing vulnerable crowns to freezing air and drying winds. So mulch is a great protection. However, timing is everything: applying too early traps residual heat and moisture against the crown, encouraging fungal rot.

Wait until nighttime temperatures drop and the topsoil begins to freeze before applying a 2-3-inch (5-8cm) layer of loose organic mulch. Go for shredded bark, pine needles, or well-rotted leaf mold. Team favorite Back to the Roots Organic Premium Wood Mulch from Amazon is a dye-free bark mulch that insulates against freeze-thaw risks while preventing spring weeds. Just avoid piling mulch directly over the center of the crown. Keep it loosely brushed around the perimeter.

Trimming back foliage will mean that crowns become invisible beneath mulch. So drive some durable, weather-resistant garden markers into the soil directly beside each crown. Labeling prevents accidental spade damage when carrying out early spring digging and helps you track special cultivars like Patriot or June. It’s a good idea to take a picture of the ground with the markers, too, just in case.

6. Protect Container Hostas

(Image credit: RuudMorijn / Getty Images)

Growing hostas in pots and urns is a fantastic way to brighten up shaded patios and porches. However, container-grown hostas face higher winter risks. Because potted soil lacks the insulating mass of earth, roots can get colder much faster and plants are more vulnerable during dormancy. Extreme temperature swings can crack pots and kill dormant crowns. So it’s a good idea to protect and overwinter potted hostas.

If you are in zones 3-6, extra winter protection is essential. Once foliage dies back and soil cools, move dormant pots into an unheated garage, garden shed, or cold frame where temperatures stay between 25°F and 40°F (-4°C to 4°C). You can use rolling plant caddies to move heavier pots, such as the Bloem 12-Inch Terracotta Caddy, available from Walmart, which has 75lb capacity.

Where indoor storage space isn't available, group pots tightly together against a warm house foundation. Wrap the exterior with bubble wrap or burlap, and top-dress with straw. Check potted soil once a month during winter, and apply a small splash of water if the soil becomes bone-dry, in order to prevent root desiccation.

(Image credit: Oversnap / Getty Images)

These fall tasks are essential for keeping your hostas healthy, protecting crowns from freezing winter weather, and eliminating pest and disease harbors. Just one crisp October afternoon tidying up your shade beds will do wonders for protecting your plants over winter and ensuring they break dormancy with lush leaves next spring.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Cardboard mulch is being championed as a sustainable, low-cost method to suppress weeds and lock moisture into soil, but did you know it can boost your harvest, too? A USDA-funded trial found cardboard mulching was not only highly effective at reducing weeds, but increased some vegetable crops by as much as 97%. Yep, you read that right.

A variety of crops were grown over different seasons in the two-year cardboard mulch trial, a collaboration between the University of Wyoming and the USDA’s Western SARE (Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education) program. The growing conditions weren’t easy, either: the trial site of Sweet Hollow Farm in Victor, Idaho, sits in Zone 4 with a super-short growing season. Yet alongside impressive yield increases, results showed weed coverage in cardboard-mulched beds at just 15%, compared to 45% in beds that were tended using traditional tilling methods.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Impressed, I decided to test out the findings for myself and back in the summer I used old cardboard boxes to mulch my vegetable bed and sat back to see what happened. Now it’s October, and I can report that my veg bed is not only 95% free of weeds but I’ve enjoyed my best-ever harvest, I'm happy to vouch for using cardboard as a mulch if you're growing vegetables. I also discovered a few vital details that make a huge difference. So, if you want to try cardboard mulching yourself – and you absolutely should, because now we know a cardboard mulch does work – here’s what you need to know for great results.

1. Use Corrugated Cardboard

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

While you want to block sunlight to suppress weeds, it’s vital to allow both water and air through for healthy soil and happy roots, and corrugated cardboard makes the layer less dense. In the USDA-funded trial, two layers of corrugated cardboard were used to create a dense barrier to exhaust aggressive perennial weeds such as field bindweed. I only used one layer of corrugated cardboard and it still suppressed weeds well, and the soil beneath it still smells sweet.

I was concerned that water wouldn't penetrate the corrugated cardboard but sliding a long-probe moisture meter like this from Amazon into the soil reassured me that it did. In my very unscientific tests between this mulched bed and the unmulched bed beside it, I was pleased to see the cardboard layer kept the soil moisture level far more consistent, too.

2. Check Cardboard is Uncoated

An uncoated finish also helps soil and root health as the cardboard layer is more permeable and breathable. Another reason to avoid coated cardboard is that glossy or water-repellent finish is typically made up of synthetic polymers – use it as a mulch and you’ll inadvertently be adding microplastics to your soil.

It’s not always easy to spot coated cardboard as some have matt finishes, and you need to watch out for cardboard that’s had water-resistant additives mixed directly into the pulp during production, too. To test, put a drop of any cooking oil onto the cardboard: if it soaks right in, go ahead and use the cardboard; if it sits on the surface, that’s a sure sign the cardboard contains compounds you don’t want in your soil.

3. Only Use Brown Cardboard Printed With Black Ink

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

While plain cardboard is best, it’s fine to use cardboard that’s been printed with black ink as that’s likely water- or soy-based and will break down safely in soil. You’ll be happy to know that the black ink used on the 20 million standard Amazon packages sent out every day is plant-based. However, highly pigmented colored inks can contain synthetic compounds that you don’t want leaching into your soil.

Similarly, skip white cardboard as this goes through chemical bleaching processes, whereas standard brown cardboard is typically made from recycled paper fibres or raw wood pulp.

4. Remove All Labels and Tape

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

If you’re recycling boxes that arrived by mail, it’s vital to remove all tape and shipping labels before using. These products are designed to withstand weather and rough handling so don’t think they’re just paper. Standard thermal shipping labels contain synthetic chemicals that soil microbes struggle to break down, and research shows can be taken up by root crops. Some types of paper tape are reinforced with fiberglass, so remove every last bit.

Make it easier to peel off labels and tape, and their adhesive backing, by hosing the cardboard down first and leaving it to sit for five minutes.

You could also take a tip from the USDA-funded trial which re-used cardboard from a local craft brewery down the road, and ask local companies if they have some to recycle. Like the large cardboard slip-sheets used by the brewer to separate layers of beer cans during transit before being recycled in the trial, this packaging is likely to be free of labels or tape.

5. Overlap the Edges Well if You’re Dealing With Persistent Weeds

Running perennials like bindweed can travel horizontally in search of light, so overlap the edges of cardboard sheets by at least 6 inches to ensure they don’t find their way through the barrier.

6. Cover Cardboard With a Layer of Compost

(Image credit: Joern Siegroth / Getty Images)

In the USDA-funded trial, a 4-6-inch layer of compost was laid over the top of the cardboard sheets before planting began. A planting hole was then punched through the cardboard, into which a seedling was transplanted. So, while taproots and the lower root system grew into the ground to access moisture, the upper feeder roots grew into the compost layer that was rich in nutrients.

As well as the lack of competition from weeds and the extra moisture locked into the soil by the cardboard layer, trial yields were undoubtedly boosted by the added compost. Standout results included winter squash, where kabocha squash saw a 28% higher yield and spaghetti squash saw a 40% higher yield than the same crops in tilled control beds. Onions and shallots also fared exceptionally well with red onions seeing a 62% higher yield and shallots showing an increased yield of 97%.

Such a thick layer of compost wasn’t practical for my backyard veggie bed or my budget, so I experimented with leaving half of the bed with only the cardboard mulch, and half with a 2-inch layer of compost covering the cardboard layer. While weeds were effectively suppressed in both sides, and all plants cropped exceptionally well, the half with compost-covered cardboard was more productive when it came to crop yield.

Make Your Own for Free

Outsunny 43 Gallon Tumbling Compost Bin

Dual chambers mean new plant material can be added to one side while the other is busy composting, and a rotating system speeds decomposition.

Naturally Nutrient-Rich

Back to the Roots Organic Compost, 1 cu. ft.

Made from upcycled green waste and free of manure, this all-purpose sustainable compost gives soil a natural boost for strong and healthy plants.

Secure the Cardboard

Graxury 6 Inch Heavy Duty Garden Pins

If your garden is exposed, galvanized steel staples will secure cardboard in place if you're not immediately covering the sheets with compost.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

I’m all for creating a low-maintenance garden with maximum reward for minimal effort, so I’ll definitely be using this method again. Though it took a little while to lay the cardboard mulch, I easily got that time back several times over because of the reduction in weeding and watering. It's also an easy way to increase the abundance of harvested crops in a small veggie bed like mine.

Cardboard boxes are a great resource for gardeners and can be used for all sorts of tasks from adding cardboard to balance plant material when composting to laying out sheets of cardboard to kill grass in preparation for a new border. Overall, a cardboard mulch made growing backyard veggies much easier, and as I usually mulch with compost once a year anyway, there was no cost but plenty of reward, and I recommend you give it a go.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

October is a busy month for amaryllis. If a bulb has been resting dry in a closet or basement since late summer, it's close to being ready for another growth spurt. Other pots spent the summer on a deck or sunk into a garden bed, and those have different needs. What you do with amaryllis in October sets up this winter's flowers.

Amaryllis care this time of year depends on where the bulb spent the summer. Store-bought holiday amaryllis are Hippeastrum, tropical bulbs native to Central and South America, and frost will kill them. Soggy mix is the other big danger, since it can rot the bulb. For a dormant bulb, the main job is picking the right week to start it. A plant coming in from outdoors usually needs a rest before it will bloom again.

From the day it's potted and watered, a bulb usually needs six to eight weeks to flower, though some bloom faster and others lag. That puts mid-to-late October right in range for December flowers. Pot up a second bulb a week or two after the first, and the color can carry on into January – handy, since it also raises the odds of a bloom on Christmas morning. Here are the key steps to take to ensure holiday flowers.

1. Wake Dormant Bulbs at the Right Time

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

Stored bulbs benefit from a cool, dry rest before you encourage them to grow again, usually for about eight to 10 weeks. A bulb that went into storage in late August is probably ready now, while one stored in late September has only had a few weeks.

A green tip pushing up from the bulb's neck is a good sign that growth is restarting, although you don't need to wait for one to appear. Give the bulb a gentle squeeze, too. A healthy bulb should feel firm and solid, much like a good onion. Soft spots or fuzzy mold can indicate rot, particularly if the bulb feels mushy underneath. If it's still firm and healthy, it can stay in its old pot as long as the potting mix is in good condition.

2. Bring Outdoor Amaryllis Indoors Before Cold Weather

(Image credit: NMLenses / Shutterstock)

Amaryllis can't take frost, and temperatures under about 35°F (2°C) can injure the plant. Across much of the North, frost has already arrived by mid-October, while in warmer parts of Zone 8 and farther south, bulbs planted in the ground can often stay put under 2 to 3 inches (5–8 cm) of mulch. Bring potted bulbs inside when frost is in the forecast.

While you're moving your plants indoors, check the bulbs for signs of damage. Narcissus bulb fly (Merodon equestris) larvae sometimes tunnel into bulbs left outdoors over summer, and a bulb that gives under your thumb may be infested or rotting.

Once your potted amaryllis are safely indoors, think about how to prepare them for winter. Unlike bulbs bought specifically for Christmas flowering, those that have spent summer outdoors aren't necessarily on track for holiday blooms. If the foliage has naturally died back, a cool, dim rest at around 50 to 55°F (10–13°C) for eight to 10 weeks can help prepare them to flower again, although blooms may not appear until late winter. If the leaves are still green and healthy, however, there's no need to force dormancy.

3. Repot Only When Needed

(Image credit: Westend61 / Getty Images)

An amaryllis flowers well in a snug pot, and a bulb can usually go three or four years before it needs a bigger one. A bulb pressing against the pot's side is one sign it's time to repot an amaryllis; roots poking out of the drainage holes are another. Replace old mix that stays wet for days, too.

The new pot should be only 1 to 2 inches (2.5–5 cm) wider than the bulb and about twice as tall, with a drainage hole. A fresh mix, like Espoma Organic All-Purpose Potting Mix (available on Amazon), gives the roots a clean start. How deep should the bulb go? At least the top third should stay above the soil line.

4. Start Watering Gradually

(Image credit: Tatiana Foxy / Getty Images)

Water the pot well right after planting, then let it drain thoroughly. The bulb has no leaves yet and uses very little water, so you probably won't need to water again for at least a week. Check the mix first, though, and only add more water when it's starting to dry out. Keep it lightly moist rather than wet, and pour around the edge of the pot instead of directly onto the bulb.

When new growth reaches 2 to 3 inches (5–8 cm), the plant gets thirstier, so water whenever the top inch (2.5 cm) of the mix feels dry. The pot should never sit in standing water. A decorative outer pot with no drainage hole, such as this terracotta bowl planter from Wayfair, looks nicer than a saucer and can conceal the nursery pot inside. Just remember to tip out any water that collects.

5. Move It to a Bright, Warm Spot and Turn the Pot

(Image credit: Valerypetr / Shutterstock)

While the stalk and leaves develop, amaryllis grow best at about 70 to 75°F (21–24°C) in a south-facing window with at least four hours of direct sun, away from heat vents. Days are short by late October, though – pale, floppy leaves are usually the first sign a window is coming up short.

On gray days, screw a full-spectrum LED grow bulb into a lamp near the plant. Home Depot carries one with a standard base. Give the pot a quarter turn every few days so the stalk grows straight. Once the buds swell, a tall stalk can get top-heavy and tip over. An inexpensive set of bamboo plant stakes with clips, like these from Amazon, will hold it up. Push the stake in near the rim, away from the bulb. The open flowers also last longer in a cooler spot out of direct sun.

6. Begin Feeding Once Growth Starts

(Image credit: Johner Images / Getty Images)

So why not feed the bulb right away? Fertilizer on a bulb with no leaves can kill the roots, and nothing is growing yet to use it. If the flower stalk pushes up first, which happens often, keep waiting until the leaves join it. From there, a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at about half strength every two weeks or so is plenty. Espoma organic indoor plant food, available on Amazon, is an even 2-2-2 formula. Keep feeding it after the flowers fade while the leaves rebuild the bulb for next year.

An amaryllis stalk can grow noticeably from one day to the next, and it's hard not to check on it every morning. After the flowers fade, cut off the stalk once it yellows and keep the leaves growing in a sunny window through spring and summer. Come next October, the same bulb can be ready for this list all over again.

Shop Amaryllis Bulbs

Sweet Nymph Amaryllis Bulb

Bonnie Plants Red Waxed Minerva Amaryllis Bulb

Grand Diva Amaryllis Bulb

Not simply a place to sit, sofas are for morning coffee, Sunday papers, movie nights, friends dropping in and those magic evenings when staying in feels like the best plan.

For Fall/Winter 2026, top designers are releasing sofas that feel generous without becoming cumbersome, sculptural but not precious and individual without shouting for attention.

Comfort is back, but it’s grown up.

Softer, deeper and more inviting

Toronto designer Paolo Ferrari sees a move toward furniture with more physical generosity, but not visual heaviness.

“Sofas are becoming lower, deeper and more enveloping, while their external silhouette remains quite controlled,” he says.

That balance is captured in Ferrari’s MC72 for Poltrona Frau, a low, sweeping sofa inspired conceptually by the aerodynamic language of the Macchi M. C. 72 seaplane.

Ferrari describes the collection as an exploration of “precision, movement and comfort,” with a streamlined form that feels at once grounded and light.

His palette for the season is equally warm and enveloping.

“I’m drawn to warm, mineral and earthy tones, or materials that have depth of colour. Deep browns, oxbloods, tobacco, butter creams.”

More than colour alone, Ferrari is interested in upholstery that changes how a sofa is experienced.

“The material should reinforce the form,” he says.

Comfort with a little personality

At Vancouver design studio Marrimor, the Notch sofa takes another approach to comfort: sleek, playful and deliberately unexpected.

“There’s this idea that more is more comfortable, especially right now. We think it’s a real sign of the times that everyone really wants to sink in and get comfortable,” says Marrimor designer Lauren Bugliarisi, who designs alongside Tanja Breadner.

The studio began by playing with a clean silhouette, enlarging its proportions and then quite literally cutting pieces away.

“We even highlighted those really intentional gaps and notches with piping to challenge typical expectations and draw attention to the subversion,” she says.

The surprise comes when people actually sit down, says Bugliarisi.

“Even with the sleek frame and contrarian details, it just sits so well and people really melt into it!”

She is also seeing the return of what might be called the personality sofa — a piece that establishes the mood of the room rather than quietly disappearing into it.

“We are excited to see the return of a statement sofa, with new understandings of personal tailoring.”

Among the pieces catching Marrimor’s attention beyond its own collection is Faye Toogood’s Butter sofa for Tacchini.

“The first time we saw it presented in person we looked at one another and said ‘I need to crawl into that sofa immediately’,” says Bugliarisi.

The sofa that changes with you

Flexibility is another important idea this season.

Designer Yves Béhar developed his Peaks modular sofa for Moooi around play and adaptability, allowing the arrangement to shift according to how a space is being used.

Peaks can move between lounging, movie seating and a flat platform, with indoor and outdoor configurations possible.

“It gives sunken living room vibes, but expands the possibilities to so many different uses,” says Béhar.

He is also noticing a refinement in sofa proportions:

“Large scale and plenty of depth is still important, but less of the pachydermic look and more elegant and refined lines.”

Buy for your life, not the trend

Perhaps the strongest theme running through all these designers is longevity.

At Australian furniture company King Living, Head of Design Chris Cooke points to the Jasper sofa, introduced in 2003 and still the company’s bestseller.

“Its staying power comes from a combination that’s difficult to get right: a distinctive architectural form, genuine everyday comfort and the ability to make the sofa your own.”

King’s new Delta sofa takes a similarly long view. Its softer, curved silhouette can work alongside earlier Delta pieces rather than forcing owners to start again.

“We don’t design a sofa around a seasonal look. Proportion, material, comfort and function all need to hold their own long after autumn or winter has passed,” says Cooke.

That may be the best advice for anyone sofa shopping this fall.

Ferrari says scale and the architecture of the room should come first. Bugliarisi warns against choosing a sofa in isolation: “We always say, ‘the composition should sing’ — so don’t shop for a sofa in a vacuum!”

“I hope people are considering uniqueness and the right fit for their lives rather than matching trends,” says Béhar.

Related

• Vancouver always the plan for IDS Prototype Judges Choice winner Rupert Jasper
• Sundays’ collaboration with Sophie Burke pairs natural materials, quiet forms

Canned beans, tomatoes, and soup move through plenty of kitchens at a steady clip, and the empties usually get a quick rinse before they go out with the recycling. At that point, old tin cans still have plenty of life left. They’re stiff, hold soil and water without leaking, and cost nothing after being discarded.

Cans make for one of the easiest garden recycling projects, and the basic projects need nothing fancier than a hammer, a nail, and a can opener. One can might hold a pepper seedling in March, then lose its bottom at transplant time and slip right back over that same plant as a cutworm collar. That’s a lot of mileage out of something headed for the curb.

I start my stash in fall. Soup and chili season brings in a steady supply, and a box of clean cans in the shed will be ready when seed starting rolls around in late winter. Some can go to work right away, too – as lanterns on chilly evenings or as a winter home for hollow stems cut back during fall cleanup.

Prep Every Can Before It Goes Outside

Clean cans first. Hot, soapy water and a bottle brush get the food out, and a soak loosens the label and glue. The edges are the real hazard. If you’ve got a smooth-edge can opener, like this Oxo Good Grips one on Amazon, use it, since it cuts through the side seam and leaves a dull lip. Regular openers leave a sharp ring. Pinch any jagged bits flat with pliers or take a file to them, and wear gloves for this part.

Won’t they rust? They will, eventually. On most cans, the “tin” is only a thin coating over steel, and rain and wet soil wear through it over time. That takes a while, and a can with a few orange spots still holds soil and water just fine for seasonal jobs. I paint the outside of any can that’ll sit out for a long stretch, and punch drainage holes so water doesn’t sit in the bottom. A can too far gone can usually still go in with the metal recycling.

Without further ado, in this latest installment of our Dirt Cheap Gardening series, here are my eight favorite ways to upcycle tin cans.

1. Start Seeds Without Buying Pots

(Image credit: Future)

Thin plastic cell packs can split or tip over, but a tin can is heavier and less likely to get knocked around. You can use cans to start seeds or root cuttings. Turn one upside down on a scrap board and tap a nail through the bottom in several spots to make drainage holes – a basic 16-ounce claw hammer, like this Irwin one from Amazon, is plenty for the job.

Fill your tin can pots with a light, sterile seed-starting mix, such as Espoma Organic Seed Starter from Walmart, instead of garden soil. Metal doesn’t breathe like terracotta, so feel the mix before you water. When it’s time to transplant, cut the bottom out with the can opener and push the root ball up and out.

2. Use Tin Cans as Pest Deterrents

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A tin can can help protect seedlings from a few garden pests, although it won’t keep them all away. Burying a can around a young plant may make it harder for slugs to reach, but they may still climb over it, so don’t rely on it as a dependable barrier.

Where a can collar is more useful is against cutworms. These caterpillars hide in the soil by day and chew through young stems at ground level after dark. Cut a can open at both ends, slip it over the seedling, and press it 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) into the soil, leaving a couple of inches above ground. Put it in place when you plant, while the seedling is most vulnerable.

You can also hang cans near vulnerable plants as a makeshift bird scare. Moving, clattering cans may startle birds, but the effect can wear off as they get used to them, so treat it as a short-term deterrent. Perhaps try alternating tin cans with a predator decoy, like the Dalen Lifelike Great Horned Owl Decoy Bird Repellent on Amazon.

3. Keep Things Organized

(Image credit: SIL/Amazon)

My potting benches end up buried under twine, plant labels, and hand tools. A few cans fix that for free. Drop a ball of garden twine (like this PerkHomy green jute twine from Amazon) into one can, and it won’t roll off the bench anymore. Put labels and pencils in the next can, and pruners and a trowel in the one after that. Mark each one with a weatherproof Garden Marker pen (on Amazon) so you don’t have to guess later. Nail them to the shed wall through the back.

4. Use it as a Compost or Fertilizer Scoop

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Bare hands make a mess of granular fertilizer, bone meal, and compost, and a clean can scoops them out without bending or cracking the way a plastic cup might. Make it do double duty. Pour a measured cup of water in, scratch a line at the waterline with a nail, and you’ve got a rough measuring cup for any rates listed in cups. Keep a second can just for compost.

Fertilizer residue can speed up rust, so knock the scoop clean after each use, store it dry, and never bring it back into the kitchen.

5. Create a Mini Herb Planter

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Thyme, chives, and oregano stay compact enough to grow in a can on a sunny windowsill or balcony rail. Get the drainage holes in first, then paint the outside. Home Depot stocks Rust-Oleum Stops Rust spray paint in gloss white, and white is the better pick for a patio since dark cans heat up fast in full sun.

Skip painting the inside, and let the paint cure before you plant. This time of year, aim for a south- or west-facing window. In summer, a can on a hot patio can dry out quickly.

6. Make DIY Lanterns for Fall Evenings

(Image credit: Future)

Punched-tin lanterns throw speckled light across a patio table, and they’re a nice touch now that it gets dark earlier. Freeze a can full of water first. The ice keeps the walls from denting while you tap a nail through them in dots, swirls or stars. Once it thaws, dry it and paint it if you like, then drop in a battery-operated LED tea light, which you can get from Walmart in a pack of 12. An LED carries far less fire risk than a candle if wind tips a lantern into dry leaves. Thread wire through two holes near the rim to hang it.

7. Build a Bug Hotel for Solitary Bees

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Many native bees are solitary and nest alone in narrow tunnels rather than hives. A tall can filled with hollow stems gives them just that. Fall cleanup supplies the material. Bamboo, reeds, and the hollow or pithy stems of sunflowers, sumac, or raspberries all work in mixed widths. Cut them a little shorter than the can so the rim shelters the openings, keep a closed node at the back when possible, and pack them in tight. Keep the bundle dry over winter.

Around the last spring frost, mount the can on its side about 5 feet (1.5 m) up, facing southeast. Replace the stems every one to three years to keep mites and fungal disease from building up.

8. Make Plant Labels

The other ideas on this list use the cans, but this one makes use of the lids by turning them into plant labels. Flatten each lid carefully, then write the plant name on it with a permanent marker. You can attach it to a wooden stick or tie it to a plant support with garden twine. The metal stands up to rain better than paper labels, and you’re giving a useful second life to something that might otherwise go in the recycling. Be careful handling the edges, which can be sharp.

Clean cans don’t take up much room on a shed shelf, and they keep a lot of little purchases off the shopping list. Start a stack this fall, and by seed-starting season there’ll be one ready for nearly every job!

Decorating for the holidays doesn't always have to mean a towering evergreen, baubles in every colour and tinsel from floor to ceiling. Sometimes, the simplest ideas make the biggest impact, and Michelle Obama's understated twig tree look is well and truly proof of this!

There is something magical about using natural shapes and soft lighting to create an elegant display, isn't there? And, while a Christmas tree is very much an 'only for December' kind of vibe, the Obamas' approach of using illuminated branches offers a more pared-back alternative, with a gentle glow that can work well beyond the festive season.

It's a look that feels particularly suited to anyone who prefers a more minimalist Christmas, or who wants to introduce a little seasonal magic without buying another large decoration that will spend most of the year in storage. Check it out if you don't believe me:

A post shared by Michelle Obama (@michelleobama)

A photo posted by

Love it? The good news is that you don't necessarily need to buy a ready-made twig tree to achieve a similar effect. In fact, with a few suitable branches from your garden, a sturdy vase and a string of delicate LED fairy lights, you can create your own version of Michelle Obama's holiday display for a fraction of the cost.

It's a lovely way to make use of branches left over from routine pruning, giving them a second life as part of your Christmas decorating. And, brilliantly, it's one of the simplest DIY projects going! All you have to do is choose branches with interesting shapes, arrange them so they form a loose, tree-like silhouette, and add lights sparingly enough that the natural structure remains the star of the show.

How To Make Michelle Obama's Twig Tree

You don't need specialist crafting skills to recreate Michelle Obama's holiday look. The most important things are choosing branches with an appealing shape and making sure your finished arrangement is stable.

What You'll Need

• A selection of sturdy garden branches or suitable fallen twigs
• A pair of sharp, clean secateurs
• A heavy-based vase, planter or decorative container
• Small stones or pebbles to help secure the branches
• A set of warm-white LED fairy lights
• Optional: a few lightweight decorations or ribbons

FELCO Felco F2 Pruning Shears

Signature Design by Ashley Rustic Ceramic Vase

KAQ Kaq Connectable 240led 88ft String Lights, Christmas Lights Indoor Outdoor | Clear Wire Twinkle Fairy Lights Plug In, 13 Modes, Timer, Waterproof Christmas Trees Lights for Bedroom, Patio Warm White

Whether you leave the finished display unadorned or add a handful of small ornaments, this easy DIY is a beautiful way to bring the outdoors in for the holidays.

With that in mind, then, let's get our Michelle Obama on...

1. Choose Your Branches

(Image credit: La Huertina De Toni / Shutterstock)

Start by looking for branches with plenty of natural character. A mixture of upright stems and smaller offshoots will give your display a fuller (aka more tree-like) shape, while branches with interesting curves can add a sculptural quality.

You can use fallen branches or suitable cuttings from routine garden pruning. If cutting from a living shrub or tree, make sure you're pruning at an appropriate time and in a way that won't damage the plant. Avoid brittle, rotten or diseased wood, and check branches for insects before bringing them indoors.

2. Arrange Them In A Sturdy Container

Choose a vase or planter with a wide and heavy base to help prevent your tree from tipping over. Position the tallest branches towards the centre and arrange the shorter ones around them, allowing the natural shapes to spread out.

Add small stones or pebbles around the base of the branches to help hold them in place. And take care to step back occasionally to check the overall silhouette, adjusting the stems until the arrangement feels balanced without looking too uniform.

3. Add Your Fairy Lights

This is where the magic happens. Wrap your LED fairy lights loosely around the branches, starting near the base and working towards the outer stems. Try to distribute the lights evenly, rather than clustering them in one area.

Warm white lights will give the arrangement a soft, inviting glow, while a more delicate micro-LED string can create a subtle, almost starry effect. Battery-operated lights can also be useful if you want to position your display somewhere without a nearby socket.

Shop Fairy Lights For Your DIY Twig Tree:

yietNL Fairy Lights Plug

YOEEN 24 Pack Fairy Lights Battery Operated Lights

Ariceleo Starry Fairy Lights

The trick to nailing that MIchelle Obama look is to make sure you pick some with a flexible wire that is easy to wind around smaller branches. Take care, too, to check that the length is sufficient for the size of your arrangement.

A timer function is a useful extra if you'd like your tree to illuminate automatically in the evenings.

4. Keep Decor Simple

One of the best things about Michelle Obama's holiday display is that it doesn't need much embellishment; you can leave the branches bare apart from the lights for a minimalist finish, or add a few small ornaments if you prefer something more traditionally festive.

A restrained palette of white, silver or muted gold will complement the natural wood without making the display feel too busy. Alternatively, a simple velvet ribbon tied around the vase can introduce a little texture without distracting from the branches.

5, Find The Perfect Spot

Once your arrangement is finished, place it somewhere it can be appreciated after dark, and take care to position it on a level surface, away from candles, fireplaces and other sources of heat.

The beauty of this Michelle Obama-inspired DIY is that it doesn't have to disappear as soon as Christmas is over. If you keep the decorations minimal, your illuminated branches can continue to bring a soft glow to your home throughout the winter – and beyond.

Winter’s short, dark days don’t give us much time to enjoy our gardens, but planting a sweetly scented winter-flowering shrub in your front yard will deliver a plant-based mood boost every time you return home. Fall is the perfect time to add one to your garden as plants will have time to settle their roots into the ground before it’s time to bloom. And then – ahhh! On crisp winter days, the air will be full of fragrance, and you’ll want to stop for a moment to breathe it in.

All these scented shrubs are great picks for a front yard because, as well as brightening dismal winter days with glorious fragrance, they'll boost your home's curb appeal. They’re all very easy to grow, don’t need much in the way of care, and look good year-round. Just enrich the ground with a few spade-fulls of compost such as Back to the Roots Organic Compost, available from The Home Depot, when you plant them, add a further 2-inch layer of compost on top of the soil to act as a mulch to keep roots cozy through their first winter, and water during dry fall spells, and they’ll thrive.

Whether you favor the scent of comforting vanilla or sweet honey, gloriously floral perfumes or fresh and spicy aromas, there’s a winter-flowering shrub to suit. So, if you're wondering what to plant in October, start right here because growing a garden then smells good is just as important as one that looks good! Which of these scented front-yard shrubs will you plant this fall to cheery you through chilly winter days?

(Image credit: Getty Images)1. Daphne Odora

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The name of this fabulous shrub announces its best asset: an incredible scent that’s intensely floral yet has citrus undertones with a hint of spice that stops it from becoming cloying. Daphne shrubs had a reputation for being finicky plants to grow, until ‘Perfume Princess’ came along and put these shrubs on the must-have list, even for beginner gardeners. It’s hassle-free, boasts flowers that are four times as big as traditional varieties, and blooms earlier and for longer, all the way from January to May.

Unlike most Daphne that only flower on branch tips, it also produces its blush-pink and white flowers all the way down its stems once established. And yes, that means lots more of that lovely fragrance.

Princess Perfume daphne, available from trees.com, grows well in full sun or partial shade in zones 7-11. It’s a winner for a front yard because it naturally grows into a dense, rounded shape around three feet high and wide without the need for frequent pruning, and is evergreen for year-round good looks.

2. Winter Scented Sweetbox

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Sarcococca are hardy evergreen shrubs that lift the darkest of winter days with a sweet, honey-like fragrance, often with a comforting vanilla layer – the kind of smell that makes you take a deep breath and relax. These easy-to-grow plants perfume the air all around them with flowers in late winter and spring followed by highly ornamental berries, adding year-round curb appeal. They thrive in partial to full shade, making them a useful option for a tricky dark corner in zones 6-9.

There’s a sweetbox variety to suit every front yard. Fragrant Valley sweetbox, available from trees.com and flowering from late December is a great fit for most front yards because you can grow it as a low-maintenance groundcover, as it only reaches 2 feet high and 3 feet wide. Extend the aromatic experience with the newly introduced Sweet & Lo sweetbox, also available from trees.com and making great groundcover, as this flowers slightly later from February to March with bright pink tips to its white blooms.

If your front yard is short on space then Monrovia sweetbox, available from Lowe’s, can be grown flat up against a wall or fence, forming an attractive cloak of glossy evergreen leaves up to five feet high and wide but easily kept smaller. It flowers from December through March and though the blooms are tiny, their warm perfume carries up to 20 feet.

3. Witch Hazel

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If you’ve got room to play with in your front yard, then witch hazel is a highly fragrant choice. The varieties with yellow flowers are far more fragrant than those with orange or red blooms, and Hamamelis x intermedia 'Arnold Promise’ is my standout choice for a scented front-yard showstopper. Highly aromatic with a sweet floral fragrance that carries well through crisp cold air, this pretty vase-shaped shrub (you can grow it as a small tree, too) flowers from late December to March, peaking in February – and we all need cheering up in February!

Hardy in zones 5-8, its ribbon-like blooms last for weeks, curling up during severe freezes then unfurling again as temperatures rise. Blooming on bare branches, it’s quite a sight on snowy days. Deciduous Arnold Promise witch hazel, available from Plant Addicts, has pretty fall foliage, too, and grows to 6-8 feet high though is easy to keep smaller by pruning right after the flowers fade. As long as it has its basic needs met in a spot with at least 5 hours of sun a day and neutral-to-acidic soil (it struggles in chalky soils with a pH above 7), witch hazel is a low-maintenance choice and drought-tolerant once established.

4. Japanese Andromeda

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Also known as Japanese pieris, Japanese andromeda aren’t all fragrant but there’s one variety that will light up dark winter days with a wonderful perfume: Pieris japonica ‘Dorothy Wycoff’. Its fragrance is rich yet clean, reminiscent of lily of the valley and a promise that spring is on its way.

Though it doesn’t flower till March, its reddish-purple buds form in summer and sit on the stems all through autumn and winter among the evergreen leaves. So it’s a joy as winter turns to spring to watch the buds expanding then bursting into cascades of bell-shaped blooms. Plant one of these beauties in your front yard and I wager you’ll be checking on bud progress every day you arrive home!

Dorothy Wycoff andromeda, available from Plant Addicts, flourishes in zones 5-8 and though it’s capable of growing to 5-7 feet high and wide, is easily kept smaller and can even be grown in a container.

5. Winter-Flowering Viburnum

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

There are over 150 species of Viburnum, and among them sit some that bring intense fragrance to cold winter days. An excellent choice for a front yard is Viburnum farreri ‘Nanum’, commonly known as dwarf fragrant viburnum. Extremely low-maintenance, this dwarf viburnum is compact and naturally rounded, and although it can reach 2-4 feet high and wide, it grows incredibly slowly so there’s no need for heavy pruning. Hardy in zones 5-8, dwarf fragrant viburnum thrives in full sun to partial shade.

The strength of its perfume belies its small frame, however. And what a scent! The base is warm with almond and vanilla, like walking into a bakery, cut with a spicy dash of clove. The aroma can hang in the air on still winter days, and snipping a single flowering stem to bring inside will fragrance a whole room.

Dwarf fragrant viburnum, available from Nature Hills, takes a little time to settle into a new home, so for the first year you can expect it to bloom lightly in late winter and early spring. But once this shrub matures and has grown its roots deep into the ground, it can flower intermittently from October all the way through to March. It doesn’t open all its buds at once but bursts into bloom during mild spells then pauses when temperatures plummet, producing another cluster when the weather improves. Because this little shrub is deciduous, the flower show is all the more beautiful because it happens on bare branches.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Adding a fragrant winter-flowering shrub to your front yard in fall is such a smart move to cheer you through to spring. And it's not just you who will be pleased – their intoxicating scent makes all these shrubs easy for early-flying pollinators to find.

Garlic is such a satisfying home crop to grow, and switching up one simple element will bring you bigger bulbs. It's such a no-brainer, yet it takes most gardeners a few years of growing garlic to realise this easy trick at planting time makes a huge difference to the size of harvested bulbs.

Traditional advice tells us to plant cloves knuckle-deep when we grow garlic, which equates to 1-2 inches. However, this rule-of-thumb hails from times when we all gardened in the ground, often in soil that sat wet through winter, so rotting cloves were a real risk. Today, in the loose, well-draining soil of a raised bed or in ground much-improved with compost, you can afford to plant cloves a little deeper, and that results in plumper bulbs.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Why? With a couple more inches of soil above them, the cloves are better insulated from the weather above, allowing roots to carry on growing for far longer before they’re halted by freezing temperatures. This big root system will power strong growth in spring, resulting in fatter bulbs. A deeply-planted clove will resist frost heaving which can pop a shallow-planted clove right out of the ground, too. Ready to grow garlic with bigger bulbs? Here’s exactly what to do.

1. Prep the Soil for Great Drainage

(Image credit: Tanapon Kongbunrak / Getty Images)

If you want to know how to grow garlic with bigger cloves, it's important to realise that you can only plant garlic cloves deeply in soil that's loose and well-drained. Try this trick in heavy, wet soil and if the cloves don’t rot over winter, the plants will waste energy pushing shoots through the dense ground that they could have ploughed into bulb expansion. So, only plant garlic this way if you have a raised bed which naturally gives good drainage, or you’re lucky enough to have loamy, free-draining soil.

Either way, improve the soil’s structure and drainage some more by digging in compost. If you make your own garden compost, great. If not, use a manure-free plant-derived compost like Back to the Roots Organic Compost, available from Walmart.

If you have already-fertile soil, the compost will also supply all the nutrients the garlic needs to grow plump bulbs. In poorer soil, or if you’re growing in a veg bed that’s been full of crops all summer, replenish nutrients before you plant with a slow-release fertilizer that’s high in phosphorous to boost root growth: Down to Earth Fish Bone Meal from Amazon is ideal.

2. Time Planting Just Right

To get the biggest bulbs, you want to get your cloves planted early enough to allow them plenty of time to grow a strong root system before winter, but not so soon that they move onto sending lots of shoots above ground that may be hit by freezing weather. The sweet spot to plant garlic cloves for big bulbs is around three weeks after your first frost, depending on your USDA zone.

So, tailor the time you plant garlic in fall to the conditions in your garden. In zones 1-6, you’ll want to plant garlic in October; in zones 7-8 you may need to wait till the end of October; and in zones 9-10, you’re perhaps looking at November.

Most garlic varieties need an 8-10 week period below 45°C to trigger cloves to split and form bulbs, a process known as vernalization. So, in zones 10+, you’ll need to pop your garlic into the fridge, in a paper bag or a lidded jar, for a couple of months to mimic this cold period before planting.

3. Only Plant the Biggest Cloves

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

When you split open your garlic bulbs, discard any smaller cloves as research shows bigger cloves grow bigger bulbs. Now your soil is loose and fast-draining, you can safely plant the cloves around 4 inches deep, using a dibber such as this Hand Hole Digger from Amazon to create planting holes.

Space holes 6 inches apart, because good airflow around the leaves will help prevent fungal diseases such as rust that can slow bulb growth. Then drop a single clove into each hole, pointy end up, and push that lovely loose soil over the top.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

And that’s all you need to do to double the size of your homegrown garlic bulbs! You see, the expert secret to growing big garlic bulbs is to grow big root systems. Kept cosy beneath that extra couple of inches of soil, with all the nutrients they need, the cloves you planted will quickly get busy growing deep roots through fall. While root growth will pause in frozen soil, as soon as temperatures creep back above 41°F it will resume, off and on, all through winter.

When spring arrives, that strong root network gives plants access to plenty of moisture and nutrients to grow lots of foliage. And because you’ve planted your garlic in a sunny spot, all those leaves act as solar panels to generate energy to fuel plumper bulbs. The loose soil you created will also allow bulbs to easily expand to their full potential.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Make sure you water the soil through any dry spells in spring and early summer when bulbs are swelling, then slow once the bulbs are fully formed – you’ll know when to stop because the foliage will start to yellow – and you’ll be harvesting garlic that's grown into showstopper bulbs.

Which Garlic is Best for Home Growing?If You Garden in a Colder Zone

In zones 1-8, opt for hardneck garlic varieties as they're much hardier and won't mind sub-zero temperatures a jot. Hardneck garlic bulbs have fewer but bigger cloves, strong flavor and store for 4-6 months.

Huge Cloves

Majestic

With a pleasing flavor and pretty pink tones, this variety grows 4-7 jumbo easy-peel cloves even in colder climates.

Health Benefits

Siberian

This variety is less pungent than most hardnecks and has a high concentration of immune-boosting allicin.

Gourmet Flavor

Montana Zemo

Adapted to flourish in colder zones, this variety produces plump cloves with a buttery flavor enjoyed raw or cooked.

If You Garden in a Warmer Zone

Choose softneck garlic in zones 6 and above, because it copes far better in warmer temperatures. Softneck garlic tastes milder, typically has lots of smaller cloves, and stores well for up to a year.

Hot-Zone Survivor

Early Italian

Producing bigger cloves than most softnecks, this sweet-tasting variety crops before mid-summer heat arrives.

Foolproof Harvest

California Jumbo

With creamy-white cloves and a crowd-pleasing flavor, this productive variety is particularly easy to grow.

Incredible Taste

Inchelium Red

Producing unusually big cloves, this variety regularly wins taste tests with its rich, layered flavors.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

Plenty of people care for a moth orchid the same way in fall as they do in summer. But by October, days are shorter, the sun sits lower, and the furnace dries out the air. Growth slows down, and that slowdown is when the plant starts setting up its next flower spike.

Fall orchid care isn't hard. You'll move the plant, water it less and feed it less, and you'll want to look it over more closely than you did in summer. Most of that takes only a few minutes.

These six tasks apply to moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) and other common types of orchids sold in grocery stores as houseplants. Yellow leaves, wrinkled leaves, and stray roots show up a lot this time of year, too.

1. Move Orchids Into Their Brightest Spot

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Light fades fast this month, and that bright spot from July might not cut it by November. East windows are the safest bet most of the year for meeting orchid light requirements. Once winter settles in and the sun hangs low and weak, though, a south window usually works, too.

With orchids, the leaves will tell you if you've got it wrong. A deep, dark green is the giveaway for not enough light. Too much shows up as a reddish edge, although that's less of a worry this time of year. For an interior room or a dim corner, try a grow light like the Sansi full-spectrum LED plant lamp, available on Amazon, which clips onto the side of the pot.

Whatever you do, just don't let the leaves rest against cold glass, as this can cause chilling damage, leaving unsightly dark patches on the foliage.

2. Adjust Your Watering Routine

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Slower growth means the potting mix stays wet longer. That makes overwatering the bigger danger until spring. Wait until the mix is nearly dry, then water thoroughly and let it drain. Never leave the pot sitting in a saucer of water.

Root color is often the best guide for watering orchids – they're silvery white when dry and green right after watering. Traditional moisture meters like the popular Yamron 4-in-1 don't work very well with orchids, as chunky bark mixes throw off probe readings; however, the Sustee Aquameter, available in a pack of 5 on Amazon, uses a moisture-absorbing wick rather than electrical conductivity, making it better suited, as long as it's in contact with plenty of potting mix. The indicator changes color from blue to white as the growing medium dries out.

Hold off on repotting orchids in the fall unless the bark has started to break down and become compacted, which can restrict airflow around the roots and increase the risk of rot.

3. Reduce or Stop Feeding

(Image credit: Getty Images)

It's tempting to keep the summer feeding schedule year-round. But an orchid's fertilizer needs follow its growth, and growth slows as the days shorten. You can still feed moth orchids that are putting out new leaves, just less often. Every third or fourth watering is enough. Use a water-soluble fertilizer like Better-Gro Orchid Plus, which you can pick up at Walmart.

Plants with no new leaves, roots, or spikes can go without until growth starts again. Extra fertilizer on a resting plant mostly means soft, leafy growth and fewer flowers. It also leaves salts in the bark, so flush the pot with plain water now and then.

4. Increase Humidity as the Heat Comes On

(Image credit: Getty Images)

So what does the furnace do to an orchid? Indoor humidity can drop below 30 percent once the heat runs regularly. Most tropical orchids prefer humidity around 60 to 75 percent. A spray bottle won't close that gap. The mist is gone within minutes.

To increase humidity for your orchids, try a pebble tray. Simply fill a shallow tray with gravel, add water about halfway up the stones, and set the pot on top. This Brussel's Bonsai tray from Amazon is a ready-to-go solution. Don't let the roots touch the water.

If you have a lot of houseplants grouped in one space, humidity will naturally increase. But if orchids are still struggling, try a small humidifier – this Pure Enrichment MistAire Ultrasonic Cool Mist Humidifier from Walmart runs up to 25 hours per fill.

5. Inspect for Pests Before Winter

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Healthy-looking orchids can still have pests. Many hide where you'd never notice unless you go looking, and a warm, dry house helps some of them along. Grab a flashlight and magnifying glass (this Large Magnifying Glass with 37 LED Lights from Amazon covers both) and check under the leaves, down in the joint where each leaf meets the stem, and along the flower stems.

• Cottony white clumps tucked in there are probably long-tailed mealybugs (Pseudococcus longispinus).
• Scale is sneakier – Boisduval scale (Diaspis boisduvalii) looks like whitish, waxy flecks stuck flat to a leaf, and it can pass for dried residue.
• Fine speckling, sometimes with a bit of webbing, usually means two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae).
• And fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.)? They're mostly harmless on their own – more a sign that the mix is staying too wet than a real threat.

Isolate any orchid with pests. Then dab the mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (you can buy it cheaply at Walmart), and keep the alcohol off the leaves.

6. Watch for Flower Spikes

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Cool fall weather triggers a new spike in many moth orchids (Phalaenopsis). Four or five weeks of days around 77°F (25°C) and nights near 68°F (20°C), or a little cooler, reliably bring one on. Days above 82°F (28°C) can hold it back.

New spikes look a lot like new roots at first. Check the tip. Spikes have a flattened, mitten-shaped tip and usually come up between the lower leaves, and root tips are round.

Stake the spike while it's still flexible – you can pick up a pack of bendable orchid stakes from Stroller on Amazon – and don't turn the pot once buds form.

Prune old brown spikes off at the base. Viruses can spread on tools, so dip the blades in a 10 percent bleach solution between plants.

Quick Fixes for Common Orchid Problems

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Three problems come up again and again once orchids move indoors:

• Yellow Leaves
  One yellow leaf at the bottom of a moth orchid is nothing to worry about. The oldest leaves age out and drop as the plant grows. Several yellow orchid leaves at once are another story, especially newer ones. That usually points to the roots. Too much water and old, soggy bark are common causes of root rot. Unpot the plant, trim off any mushy roots, and repot it in fresh bark.
• Wrinkled Leaves
  Limp, wrinkled orchid leaves mean water isn't getting to them. Moth orchids have no pseudobulbs to store water, so they show thirst quickly. Check the roots first – firm, healthy roots point to underwatering or dry air. Rotted roots can't take up water no matter how often you water.
• Aerial Roots
  Silvery roots climbing over the rim of the pot are normal. Orchids grow on trees in the wild and use their roots to cling to bark. Leave healthy aerial roots alone. Trim dead or shriveled ones the next time you repot.

An orchid doesn't need much from you this month. More light, less water, lighter feeding, and a quick pest check cover most of it. Keep those habits going through winter, and there's a good chance a fresh spike shows up before spring, followed by a gorgeous run of flowers.

Shop October Orchid Essentials

Stroller 18in Orchid Support Stakes – Pack of 20

Sustee Aquameter Plant Soil Moisture Sensor, Set of 5

Brussel's Bonsai 8" Humidity Tray With Decorative Rocks

When I think of a butterfly garden, butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii) is one of the first plants that comes to mind.

The clue's in the name: with its colorful flower clusters and nectar-rich blooms, it's easy to see why this shrub is such a favorite among gardeners looking to attract butterflies. However, butterfly bush has a complicated reputation, as it can become invasive in parts of the United States.

Sterile cultivars like this stunning Psychedelic Sky™ Butterfly Bush from Nature Hills offer a promising solution, producing little to no viable seed and reducing the risk of unwanted spread. That being said, if I was looking to create a garden that's as beneficial to local wildlife as it is beautiful, I'd also consider adding another native flowering shrub to the mix.

Shop Non-Invasive Butterfly Bush Options:

First Editions Psychedelic Sky™ Butterfly Bush

Plants That Work Bicolor Butterfly Bush

Nature Hills Nursery Black Knight Butterfly Bush

A Beautiful Native Alternative To Butterfly Bush

Native to much of the United States, buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) has its own distinctive charm, with spherical white blooms that attract pollinators and fruits that provide food for birds.

It's a wildlife-friendly butterfly bush alternative worth considering, particularly if you have moist soil or a rain garden, and a way to add another valuable native plant to the landscape.

(Image credit: Donna Bollenbach / Shutterstock)

Rather than producing tapered flower clusters like a butterfly bush, this uniwue alternative develops distinctive round, white flower heads that look a little like pincushions. Each globe is made up of many tiny tubular flowers, which typically appear during summer and fill the air with their sweet honey-like fragrance.

Its flowers provide nectar and pollen for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, including hummingbirds. In fact, it's also one of the plants to add if you want fireflies in your garden, too. Win!

As if that weren't enough to make it a must-grow, the shrub also develops rounded clusters of fruits after flowering, which provide food for birds, including some waterfowl and songbirds (and likely your birth month bird, too!). Basically, for gardeners who want a shrub that looks interesting as well as serving a purpose, buttonbush is an appealing choice.

Shop Buttonbush Plants:

American Beauties Buttonbush

GINGERGLOW Buttonbush Live Plant

American Beauties Crimson Comet Buttonbush

There's one important thing I'd consider before bringing buttonbush home: its preferred growing conditions. This butterfly bush alternative naturally grows in wet habitats, which means it thrives in moist to wet soil and can tolerate poorly drained areas where many ornamental shrubs struggle. All of which means that, if I had a spot that regularly stayed damp after rainfall, buttonbush would be high on my list of shrubs to consider.

It grows in full sun to partial shade, although flowering is generally better with adequate sunlight. Once established in the right location (aka not a dry garden or a hot border with fast-draining soil), though, it can become a standout and long-lived feature of the landscape.

So, sure, butterfly bush may still catch the eye, but buttonbush offers a compelling alternative for the right garden. If your soil stays moist and you have room for a larger shrub, this native beauty deserves a closer look... and, in return, it'll soon reward you by becoming a buzzing neighborhood hot spot for birds, butterflies, and more!

What could be better, quite frankly?

Jennifer Aniston, also known as Rachel from my favorite show, Friends, has one of the most famous homes/gardens on the internet right now. Rachel Green never had a garden, and Aniston is clearly making up for it. Really, this Bel Air property is having a moment; from the Japanese-inspired planting to the roses, people are trying to copy it in even the tiniest of spaces. But it’s her koi pond (pictured below) that is really doing some heavy lifting, especially when it comes to the Japanese aesthetic.

It’s the kind of feature that looks like it required some serious money and expertise, but it actually starts with one pretty straightforward question. As Kendahl Kreps, Director of Marketing at Oase North America, puts it: “Do you want fish?” Everything else follows from there.

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Start With the Right Questions

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Before even thinking about logistical questions like what size, depth, and budget you’re working with, it’s helpful to get clear about what exactly you want from a water feature. Kreps says to ask yourself, “What do I want from this? Sound? Aesthetics? Nature habitat? All of these things can help you decide what kind of water feature you should go with.”

Joe Zawistowski, founder of Black Koi Water Features and a certified Aquascape contractor with 25 years and over 300 ponds behind him, agrees: “A pond that fits your lifestyle is one you will enjoy for decades.”

If the answer is fish, you’ll want to head toward a proper koi pond. If it’s sound and movement without the maintenance commitment, a pondless waterfall delivers almost the same experience. “A pondless waterfall gives you the sight, sound, and planting of a full water feature without an open body of water,” says Zawistowski. “Most of the water sits invisibly in a buried reservoir under a floor of rocks, and the pump recirculates it continuously. No fish, almost no maintenance, and the footprint can be as small as ten by ten feet.”

The Non-Negotiables

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Two things you absolutely can’t compromise on when it comes to a koi pond are depth and filtration. Koi need a minimum of 18 inches (45 cm), but Zawistowski pushes for three feet (90cm): “Three feet eliminates successful heron hunting because herons wade to strike and can’t reach fish at that depth.”

Aiza, a sustainability writer at GreenerPulse, adds that depth also matters for temperature stability: “Shallow ponds heat up and cool down too fast, and the fish get stressed."

When it comes to filtration, every expert is on the same page. “Prioritize filtration,” says Jacob Romkee, landscape expert at Thumbtack. “A poor filtration system can undermine the whole project.” Aiza is equally direct: “The filter is the worst place to save money.”

Almost every first-time pond owner will encounter an algae problem. Kreps recommends a combined UV and mechanical filter system, like this TotalPond system on Amazon. She says, “UV bulbs and filter foams polish the water to make the fish look as if they are floating.”

If you don't have fish in your pond, a floating solar-powered fountain, like this Mademax design, is a simple, affordable way to add movement to the water. It can also help improve circulation and aeration, keeping the pond fresher and reducing stagnation.

Small Garden? No Problem

(Image credit: Future/Emma Kendell)

While you may think you need to have a full koi pond to get the same look as Jennifer Aniston, it’s actually not the only option. If you have a small space in an urban garden or patio, a container pond or raised feature can give you most of the same benefits. Romkee has seen genuinely creative approaches: “I’ve seen people turn bathtubs, hot tubs, tiered fountains, and even disguised kiddie pools into water features.”

Aiza and Zawistowski are quick to point out one big caveat, both claiming that a smaller water volume is much less forgiving. They tell me that temperature swings happen much faster and water quality can shift very quickly, so a container pond actually requires more attention and maintenance, not less, as you might assume.

Planting Around It

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Plants around the pond are essential to making it look embedded in the garden rather than simply dropped into it. Zawistowski uses marginal plants like iris and pickerelweed to soften the edges, water lilies to shade the surface and suppress algae, and, for the surrounding landscape, weeping and upright Japanese maples, catmint, ornamental Carex grass, and coneflowers.

Romkee adds ferns, Japanese iris, and creeping ground cover as strong options, with one firm disclaimer: “I’m much more cautious about bamboo because it’s so hard to get rid of once planted.”

Getting the Japanese Look

(Image credit: RHS/Tim Sandall)

Jennifer Aniston’s koi pond works so well because of the restraint she and her designer, Stephen Shadley, used. Kreps says, “An asymmetrical pond shape, a few carefully selected stones, controlled planting, and one strong focal element such as a bridge or sculptural rock.”

Aiza puts it even more simply: “Resist the urge to add three fountains.” Still water, well-placed stone, and a limited plant palette make a complete formula. The engineering, as Zawistowski says, should disappear entirely, “so the feature looks like natural erosion rather than something that arrived on a truck.”

Shop Pond Kits

Aquascape Aquagarden Mini Pond Kit

Trinx Aquagarden 50-Gal Resin Pond Kit

Smiley Scapes Water Garden Fountain Koi Pond Kit

I’m a big believer that you don’t have to spend much money to have a beautiful garden. I often repurpose containers and other household items outside, but one of my favorite ways to recycle is to return food waste to the earth. Each fall, I bury kitchen scraps in my empty raised beds using a mix of ingredients I’ve found that makes an ideal free soil improver. The scraps break down in place over winter, adding organic matter to the soil before spring planting.

This on-the-go trench composting method doesn't require a compost bin, but I keep a countertop caddy, similar to this best-selling Oxo Good Grips Bin on Amazon, in my kitchen and add suitable scraps as I go. Every few days, I empty it into a shallow trench in one of my beds, then move on to another spot. I keep going until the ground freezes.

My Soil Improver Recipe

You don’t need every ingredient in my mix; simply leave out anything you don’t have. I can’t recommend adding other ingredients in their place, though. Think of it as an easy, personal way to put kitchen scraps to work in the garden, rather than a precise recipe.

1. Fruit and Vegetable Scraps

(Image credit: Okrasiuk / Shutterstock)

Fruit and vegetable scraps are the main ingredient and make up the bulk volume of the mix. I save things like banana, citrus, and cucumber peels, apple cores, carrot tops, and other uncooked trimmings. As they break down, they return organic matter and some of their nutrients to the soil.

I chop larger or tougher scraps into pieces about 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. Smaller pieces are easier to mix into the soil and should break down more readily. I avoid scraps covered in oil, sauce, or dressing, and I never add any meat, fish, bones, or dairy to the mix.

2. Used Coffee Grounds

(Image credit: Kinga Krzeminska / Getty Images)

I add about 1 cup of used coffee grounds to a batch of scraps. Grounds contain small amounts of nutrients and organic compounds, but despite what you may have seen in viral gardening videos, they need time to break down before the bed is ready for planting.

I let the grounds cool first, then stir them through the scraps so they don’t clump together. I keep the amount modest: coffee grounds are best used in moderation.

3. Crushed Eggshells

(Image credit: Ermak Oksana / Shutterstock)

Eggshells are one of the most widely used food scraps in gardening. For my mix, I save the shells from a couple of eggs, rinse off any residue, let them dry, and crush them as finely as I can – with a blender or pestle and mortar, like this Gorilla Grip design on Amazon.

Eggshells contain calcium, although they break down slowly, so I don’t expect them to act like a quick calcium feed. I add them because they’re easy to save and can eventually become part of the soil.

Many gardeners also sprinkle eggshells around plants in the hope of deterring soft-bodied pests such as slugs. I don’t rely on them for pest control, though, so I crush mine and add them to the mix instead of scattering them around plants.

4. Oatmeal

(Image credit: AnnaPustynnikova)

While not technically a scrap, I add a small handful of plain rolled oats – about ¼ cup – to my recipe. Oatmeal is grain-based, so it’ll break down into organic matter in the soil, adding lots of nutrients. Oats are also believed to help stimulate root growth, as they contain phosphorus and feed beneficial mycorrhizal fungi in the soil.

5. Cinnamon

(Image credit: Getty Images)

I add a little cinnamon to my mix for its much-touted properties as a natural fungicide, rooting hormone, and pest deterrent. These uses are popular with gardeners, although I wouldn’t rely on a small amount buried in the soil to solve an existing problem. You don’t need much – around ½ teaspoon is plenty for my mix.

6. Flat Beer

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If I have some flat beer left over, I add a small splash – about ½ cup – to my caddy. Beer contains yeast and other organic compounds, which is why some gardeners use it in compost or homemade plant feeds. I don't know whether it makes a measurable difference to my soil, so I wouldn't open a bottle specifically, but it’s a way to use up a little leftover beer rather than pour it down the drain.

When and How I Bury the Mix in Fall

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Once my caddy is at least half full, I take it out to an empty bed. I dig a trench about 12–18 inches (30–45 cm) deep, add the scraps, and mix them with some of the soil, then I fill the trench back in. I make sure the food waste is fully covered, with at least 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) of soil above it, so that it doesn't attract animal pests.

One key point is that I don’t try to fill the whole bed with one enormous batch. As a rough guide, I use about 1 gallon (4 L) of mixed scraps for each 4-by-4-foot (1.2-by-1.2-m) bed, spread along a short trench. If I have any leftovers, I bury the rest in another empty spot or save it for another trench. Alternatively, buy a cheap compost bin, like the Vevor small compost tumbler from Home Depot, and start building that up as you go.

The exact amount isn’t a strict recipe. I keep the layer of scraps fairly modest, chop everything small, and cover it well. I avoid digging close to established plants, whose roots could be disturbed, and don’t bury food waste in beds where I plan to plant immediately.

Balancing the Scraps

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Kitchen scraps are moist and break down more easily when mixed with some dry material. If I have them, I add a couple of handfuls of shredded leaves to my trench batch. They contribute carbon and help keep the scraps from clumping together.

I sometimes add a small handful of fresh grass clippings, too. They’re nitrogen-rich, but I use them sparingly and mix them through the scraps and leaves so they don’t form a dense, soggy layer. Both additions are optional home composting extras: I just use what’s available in the garden.

What I Do in Spring

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By spring, the scraps will have had several months to break down. When I’m ready to plant, I check the area first. If I can still see recognizable pieces, I leave that part of the bed alone for a little longer and plant elsewhere. If the soil looks settled and the scraps have mostly disappeared, I loosen the surface and get the bed ready for planting.

I don’t expect this one mix to replace compost or a soil test, and I don’t use it as a precise fertilizer. For me, it’s a simple way to make use of kitchen leftovers and add them back to an empty garden bed while there’s time for them to break down before spring.

Is there anything more magical than spotting a bright red cardinal among the branches of your backyard?

Honestly, I'm not so sure that there is; there's a reason we all love these beautifully vibrant birds so much, and it's not just because they've become synonymous with the holidays (a study back in 2022 determined that 34% of the birds featured on Christmas cards are cardinals, if you don't believe me!). They are laden with symbolism, and many believe that if they're the first bird you spot on January 1st, you're owed 12 months of love, hope, optimism, and good luck for the year ahead.

Now, these beautiful songbirds are year-round residents across much of the eastern and central United States, and with the right planting choices, you can make your garden a more inviting place for them to visit. So, how best to go about it?

The Best Plants To Attract Cardinals

The secret to charming these birds into your yard? Think beyond bird feeders and give cardinals more of what they naturally need: food, shelter, and places to nest.

Now, cardinals eat a varied diet of seeds, fruit, and insects, and they particularly favor gardens with plenty of dense vegetation where they can hide from predators and forage safely. All of which means that, if you're hoping to welcome more of these ruby-red visitors to your yard this season, these three trees are a great place to start.

Shop Plants To Attract Cardinals:

Nature Hills Nursery White Flowering Dogwood

Proven Winners La Vida Más® Indian Hawthorn

Nature Hills Nursery Louisa Flowering Crabapple Tree

1. Hawthorn

(Image credit: Volodymyr Chmut / Getty Images)

If you want to make your garden more appealing to cardinals, hawthorn is a great tree to consider. Depending on the species, these trees produce small fruits often called haws, which can provide food for birds into the cooler months. Their dense, sometimes thorny branches also offer useful shelter for wildlife.

Hawthorns can be particularly valuable in a wildlife-friendly garden because they provide more than one benefit. Their flowers attract insects, their fruits feed birds, and their branching structure offers places to perch and hide.

When choosing a hawthorn, look for a species suited to your local growing conditions and available space. Native varieties are especially worth considering because they can support a wider range of local wildlife, although the La Vida Más® Indian Hawthorn from Nature Hills is an undeniably spectacular option if you are in the mood for endless clusters of pink flowers (and how could you not be?).

2. Crabapple

(Image credit: SEEphotos7171 / Shutterstock)

Crabapple trees are another excellent option for a cardinal-friendly garden. Their spring blossoms bring seasonal color, while the small fruits that follow can become an important food source for birds in fall and winter.

The fruits of some crabapple varieties persist on the tree after the leaves have dropped, creating a welcome food source when other options become scarcer. The branches also offer perching spots and can contribute to the layered structure that makes a backyard more attractive to birds.

For the best wildlife value, choose something like the Louisa Weeping Crabapple Tree from Nature Hills. It has the added benefit of being stunning, too!

3. Dogwood

(Image credit: Gina Kelly / Alamy)

Dogwood is a particularly good choice if you're looking for a plant that combines ornamental appeal with wildlife benefits. Many dogwoods produce berries that cardinals and other fruit-eating birds enjoy, and Cornell's Lab of Ornithology specifically lists dogwood among the fruits eaten by cardinals, too!

Depending on the species, dogwoods can grow as small trees or shrubs, making them useful for gardens of different sizes. Their seasonal flowers, foliage, and fruits can provide interest throughout the year, while their branching growth helps create cover for all visiting birds (very likely including your own birth month bird in the mix).

For a particularly wildlife-friendly planting, look into native dogwood species that are well suited to your region. Personally, I love the White Flowering Dogwood from Nature Hills.

Other Ways To Keep Cardinals Happy:

Kaytee Kaytee Cardinal Seed Cake

Birdfy Bird House With Camera

Feeding in Style

Sweetfull Sweetfull Solar Bird Feeder

Planting these trees can help, but the best cardinal-friendly gardens offer more than fruit alone. Cardinals are especially fond of dense shrubs and tangled vegetation, which provide shelter from predators and suitable nesting locations, and they also need a reliable source of water.

Finally, try to choose plants native to your region and avoid pesticides wherever possible. A diverse garden with food available across different seasons is more likely to support birds and other wildlife over the long term, after all! Still, with hawthorn, crabapple, and dogwood in the mix, you can create a backyard that looks beautiful through the seasons while offering cardinals more reasons to stop by.

If that's not an excuse to get growing, I don't know what is!

True lilies are some of the most striking, fragrant, and elegant flowers in the garden. As fall continues, those magnificent blooms may fade, but underground, their leaves and bulbs are working overtime to prepare for winter. October is a critical time when lily bulbs are drawing in late-season nutrients, developing healthy roots, and storing vital energy to push up towering stems next year.

Before diving into autumn chores, make sure you clarify which type of lily you need to care for, and distinguish true lilies (Lilium) from daylilies (Hemerocallis). Daylilies grow from dense, fibrous roots and die back quickly, while true lilies grow from fleshy bulbs. These fall tasks focus on early-blooming Asiatic hybrids, fragrant Oriental lilies (like 'Stargazer'), majestic Trumpet lilies, and robust Orienpet (OT) hybrids.

These simple October tasks outlined here ensure maximum winter survival, smart disease resistance, and better flower development next time. Because most true lilies are cold-hardy, they can remain safely in the ground (just a few tender types, or lilies in very cold climates, benefit from winter storage). By giving your lily beds a little expert attention now, you set the stage for an explosive, colorful display next year.

Best Lily Care in October

Before getting stuck into lily care, give some thought to your USDA hardiness zone and climate, as well as specific varieties. Because specific lily classes mature at different rates through late summer, individual plants in borders may sit at varying stages of dormancy in October. Early Asiatic varieties may have dropped their leaves weeks ago, while tall Oriental and Orienpet hybrids might hold green foliage into fall.

In addition to managing existing lily beds, October is a great time to introduce new lily bulbs. Soil temperatures remain warm enough for fresh roots to establish before deep winter freezes arrive. At the same time, growers in severe northern climates (zones 2–3) or those growing tender, exotic species like Formosa lilies can lift and store bulbs for protection.

(Image credit: Xphotoz / Getty Images)

It’s a good idea to invest in a soil probe that can give you a reliable idea of light and moisture levels in the ground at this time. A diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter, available from Amazon, can give you a heads-up about conditions around your lilies before you start. Checking can help you clarify root moisture, soil pH, and temperature levels before you mulch or plant new bulbs.

Whether you are tending established clumps, adding new varieties, or lifting tender bulbs for winter, these simple October tasks will ensure your lilies transition smoothly into dormancy. Following these quick checks this month gives you the best preparation for healthier plants and bigger blooms next summer.

1. Remove Dead Seed Heads and Leaves

(Image credit: Annie Sell / Getty Images)

Removing spent plant material is important for maintaining a tidy bed but also for plant health and preventing infections. Fallen leaves and spent lily foliage can harbor destructive fungal spores, most notably lily blight, as well as other pathogens. Collect and dispose of yellowing or dropped leaves as they loosen from the main stems. Any foliage showing dark spots, water-soaked streaks, or powdery mildew should be bagged and placed in the trash (not the compost pile) to prevent spreading disease.

Additionally, snip off any seed heads that form after flowering finishes. Unless you are intentionally saving seed for propagation, developing seed pods drain massive amounts of energy away from the bulb. Removing seed capsules redirects resources back down into the bulb, strengthening reserves for winter. Always use clean, sharp snips when removing seed heads, and wipe down the blades before and after use. Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Neem Oil Spray, available from Walmart, is great for sanitizing tool blades as well as treating beds against fungal spores.

2. Check Plants for Pests and Diseases

(Image credit: Akchamczuk / Getty Images)

This is an excellent opportunity to check remaining stems and leaf joints for signs of damage or insect activity, like spots or holes. Aphids, red lily leaf beetles, and scale insects frequently deposit overwintering eggs close to the soil line. Removing old stem tissue and clearing away leaf clutter can eliminate cozy pest harbors. To help you get a closer look, grab a magnifying glass or a loupe like the Carson LumiLoupe 10x Stand Magnifier from Amazon. This can help assess leaves or bulb scales for hidden mites, thrips, or early fungal rot.

If you are dividing or lifting tender varieties for indoor storage, inspect bulbs closely. Healthy lily bulbs should feel firm, plump, and heavy, with crisp white, yellow, or pinkish scales. Discard any that feel soft, squishy, or show signs of blue mold or basal rot. If you notice rot in multiple bulbs, it might be a sign of poor soil drainage. Correct this in October by working some coarse grit or perlite into the planting area.

3. Trim Back Faded Plants

(Image credit: Oleksandr Rado / Alamy)

While it is tempting to clear away all stems early to keep beds tidy, patience is essential – and timing is crucial. As long as a lily stem holds green leaves, it is actively performing photosynthesis, converting sunlight into carbohydrates and pumping energy down into the bulb. So while parts of the plant are working, it’s best to leave lilies as long as they are healthy. Cutting back green stems prematurely starves the bulb, resulting in stunted growth and fewer flowers the following season.

Wait until the foliage has turned yellow, brown or papery before cutting back. Once the stem is fully dead, use bypass pruners to cut the stalk down to about 2-3 inches (5-8cm) above the ground. Leaving a short stem stub helps mark the bulb's location. Dispose of dead stalks promptly, as hollow, decaying stems left standing over winter make ideal overwintering sites for pests and spores. After cutting back, add a gentle organic phosphorus booster to the soil. A little Down to Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s around trimmed bases can encourage root development.

4. Lift Tender Bulbs and Plant New Bulbs

(Image credit: Olga Seifutdinova / Getty Images)

This is a chore many gardeners can skip, as most lilies are hardy in most areas of North America. Asiatic, Oriental, and Trumpet lilies are hardy in zones 4-9, but if you are in zones 2-3 or growing tender exotic species, it’s smart to lift bulbs in October. Once foliage dies back, carefully lift using a garden fork, taking care not to nick the bulbs. Brush off loose soil and allow the bulbs to air-dry in a cool room for 24 hours. Store them in cardboard boxes layered with slightly damp peat moss, wood shavings or vermiculite. Keep in a cool, dark location, around 40-45°F (4-7°C).

October is also a great time to plant new hardy lilies. Autumn soil retains summer warmth, allowing fresh bulbs to build strong root systems. Plant bulbs pointy side up at a depth 2-3 times the height of the bulb, 6-8 inches (15-20cm) deep. Choose a sunny site with well-draining soil, mixing a little organic compost or bone meal into the bottom of the hole. Add a gentle root tonic rather than a heavy dedicated feed. Go for a light soil drench with a seaweed or kelp tonic like GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp from Walmart. This is rich in trace minerals to help develop roots.

5. Apply Mulch and Mark Locations

(Image credit: Vasil Dimitrov / Getty Images)

Bulbs that stay in the ground over winter benefit from a little protection, even if they are hardy in your growing zone. Mulching insulates the soil, moderates temperature changes, and reduces the risk of frost-related damage. Once beds are cleared and trimmed, apply a layer of mulch. If you’re looking for a great mulch for lilies, I recommend Back to the Roots Organic Premium Wood Mulch from Amazon. This dye-free organic bark mulch insulates bulbs, while suppressing early weeds. You can also use shredded bark, evergreen boughs or clean straw.

As well as insulating the soil against temperature swings, mulching prevents damage by freeze-thaw cycles. These can cause frost heaving, which is where shifting soil pops bulbs up to the surface. Wait until the ground cools down (or after the first hard freeze) before applying a 2-4-inch (5-10cm) blanket of your mulch. Don’t pack it too tightly or thickly, though, as this can trap moisture over the bulbs.

Finally, be sure to mark the exact locations of your buried lily bulbs. True lilies emerge relatively late in spring, and it is dangerously easy to forget exactly where they are and to slice through dormant bulbs in spring. Drive durable wooden or plastic garden stakes into the ground besides your trimmed stem stubs or fresh plantings. Taking a quick photo on your smartphone can also help to create a visual map that prevents accidental digging when spring arrives.

(Image credit: Sandra Burm / Alamy)

These well-timed tasks will help your lily bulbs survive the winter and thrive next spring with vigorous growth and abundant, majestic blooms. The most important priorities are to leave green foliage intact until it dies back naturally, clear away dead plant debris, and protect underground bulbs while ensuring excellent soil drainage for any additions. Take a little time to tend your lily beds well this fall, and you can enjoy an unforgettable display of lovely lilies next summer.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

By mid-October, many tomato plants look pretty rough, with yellowing leaves, a few stubborn green fruits, and stems flopping over their cages. The easy move is to yank the whole mess out and drag it to the trash or the compost pile. Before you do, though, there’s some useful work hiding in those tired plants.

Good end-of-season tomato plant care starts with a close look at what you’re pulling. Some vines can feed next year’s garden as compost, and the best fruit can give you free seed. Others may carry diseases you don’t want to spread around the yard or carry over into next summer.

That’s the main thing to keep in mind as you work. Healthy tomato plants can usually go in the compost, while diseased ones should be bagged and disposed of according to your local guidance. Nearly every other job, from saving seeds to cleaning cages, depends on knowing which kind of plants you have.

1. Check Plants Carefully for Disease

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Walk the row slowly and look at leaves, stems, and fruit before a single plant comes out. A few problems should never go into a typical home compost pile. Late blight (Phytophthora infestans) is one, and the bacterial tomato diseases are others, including bacterial spot (Xanthomonas spp.) and bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis), which can survive in plant debris. Mosaic viruses are worse still – tobacco and tomato mosaic viruses can hang on in dried plant debris for years. Most backyard piles never get hot enough, evenly enough, to kill these organisms. Bag those plants and get rid of them according to your local rules, and do the same with any plant that’s heavily infested with pests.

2. Save Seeds from Your Best Tomatoes

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Seed saving only works with open-pollinated or heirloom varieties – hybrids won’t come true to type, so an F1 tomato’s seeds can give you something quite different next year. Pick fully ripe fruit from your healthiest, best-tasting plants and scoop the seeds and gel into a glass jar with a little water. Stir it twice a day for up to about five days, until it ferments and the good seeds sink. Pour off the floaters, rinse what’s left in something like the Farberware fine mesh strainers from Walmart, and dry the seeds on a coffee filter or paper plate.

Once a fingernail can’t dent them, they’re ready for labeled paper envelopes; the Lotmer seed-saving envelopes from Amazon are printed with seed name, variety, date collected, and growing notes. Kept cool, dry, and dark, tomato seed usually stays good for about four years.

3. Take Healthy Cuttings Before Frost

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This one’s optional, but if there’s a variety you loved this year, you can carry it through the winter indoors. Pick a few healthy side shoots about 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) long and snip them off with clean pruners – Fiskars' bypass pruning shears, available on Amazon, are a great budget-friendly pick if you need a new pair.

Cuttings will usually root in a plain jar of water, as long as the cut ends sit 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) under the surface and the jar stays somewhere cool and bright. Once roots show up, pot them and give them all the light you can. Don’t put this off until after a hard frost has already hit the garden.

Leave out any plant that had disease problems, and viruses in particular, since a cutting can carry them along from the parent.

4. Compost Healthy Plants the Right Way

(Image credit: Halfpoint Images / Getty Images)

Healthy vines are worth composting, but toss them on the pile whole, and they’ll take ages to rot. Chop them into short lengths first – 8–12 inches (20–30cm) or so – because smaller pieces break down faster. It also pays to strip off any leftover tomatoes. Seeds can make it through a backyard pile in one piece, and you may find volunteers popping up next summer.

Layer the chopped vines with dry leaves or other brown material. A compost bin like the Redmon 65-gallon compost bin from Walmart keeps it all corralled.

If you’re on the fence about whether a plant was healthy, use that compost away from where tomatoes will grow. Healthy potting mix from containers can go on the pile, too, so dump those pots before you stack them for winter.

5. Remove the Roots (or Leave Them?)

(Image credit: Helin Loik-Tomson / Getty Images)

For plants that stayed healthy all season, there’s a good case for leaving the roots in the ground. Just cut the stems off at the soil line, and the roots will break down in place, adding organic matter without much soil disturbance. A plant that wilted, stunted, or yellowed for no clear reason is another story. Loosen the root ball with a spading fork, like Home Depot’s Ames 4-tine forged spading fork. You’re looking for knotty swellings on the roots, a sign of root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.).

Remove infested roots soon after harvest and leave them out of the garden. The same goes for plants with Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. lycopersici), which can persist in soil for many years. In containers, tip the root ball out and check it the same way.

6. Clean and Disinfect Cages, Stakes and Supports

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Some disease organisms ride along on tomato supports. Bacterial canker can persist on stakes, and mosaic viruses can last weeks to months on stakes and trellises. Knock off the dirt first, then scrub or hose them down, since soil blocks disinfectants. Then soak them fully in a 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) for at least 20 minutes.

Rather skip the bleach? ZeroTol 2.0, an OMRI-listed hydrogen peroxide product sold on Amazon, is labeled for hard, nonporous surfaces like metal cages and tools. Wooden stakes are trickier – bacteria can hide in the wood – so toss any that held canker-infected plants. Plastic pots can get the same bleach soak, followed by a good rinse.

7. Recharge the Bed for Next Year

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Bare soil over winter is a missed opportunity. Winter rye is very cold-tolerant and grows in cool weather. In mid-October, it’s still an option in many areas, as long as you sow it at least four weeks before steady cold sets in. You’ll find Mountain Valley Seed winter rye on Amazon in a 5-pound bag on Amazon. Mow it in spring before it sets seed, then turn it under two to four weeks before planting.

If it’s too late for a cover crop, spread compost such as Back to the Roots organic compost, available from Home Depot, or a blanket of shredded leaves, instead. Next year’s tomatoes should go somewhere else, too – keep tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and potatoes out of that spot for three to four years. For containers, reuse potting mix only if the plants stayed healthy, and replace the top 6 inches (15 cm) in big pots with fresh mix.

Your Post-Harvest Tomato Checklist

Once the last tomatoes are picked, here’s the whole job in short form. Pin it somewhere you’ll see it, because October tends to get busy.

• Look over every plant for disease before anything gets pulled.
• Bag blighted, bacterial or virus-infected plants, and compost only the healthy ones.
• Save seed from your best open-pollinated or heirloom tomatoes.
• If you want a head start, root a few healthy side shoots indoors before frost.
• Chop healthy vines and pick off leftover fruit before they hit the compost.
• Dig up and check the roots of any plant that wilted or struggled.
• Scrub and disinfect cages, stakes and pots before storing them.
• Sow winter rye, add compost or mulch the bed with leaves.
• Pick a new spot for next year’s tomatoes.

It's that time of year that sees them pop up all over the place, but did you know you have a birth month mushroom?

Yes, mushrooms might not be the first thing that springs to mind when you think about personality (indeed, many of us tend to think about them in terms of how best to remove these fungi from our garden), but these fascinating plants have plenty of character.

From patterned caps peeking through woodland leaves to clusters of mushrooms growing on fallen logs, they come in an extraordinary range of shapes, sizes and colors. Some are easy to grow at home, while others are the sort of unexpected find that can make an ordinary walk feel a little more magical. And some are, of course, killers in disguise.

So, which best represents you?

All 12 Birth Month Mushrooms

If you've already explored your birth month bird, birth month animal, and birth month bug, you might think you've covered all the ways to find a nature-inspired match for your birthday. Mushrooms, though, are here to prove that wrong.

We've picked 12 mushrooms, one for every month, taking inspiration from fungi you might encounter in the wild across the US and UK, alongside varieties you can grow at home. From springtime morels to fall's woodland favorites and a wonderfully pink number, each has something special to recommend it.

So, which mushroom matches your birth month? Read on to discover your fungi counterpart, learn a little about where it grows and find out whether your match is a familiar woodland sight or a colorful variety you could try cultivating yourself (hey, there's a reason the Back to the Roots Organic Oyster Mushroom Grow Kit is so popular!). Just remember that wild mushrooms can be difficult to identify, and some poisonous species resemble edible ones, so enjoy them with your eyes unless you're certain of their identity.

January – Velvet Shank

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January personalities are known for their determination and ability to keep going when the going gets tough. The velvet shank (Flammulina velutipes) makes a fitting birth month mushroom, then: this golden-orange mushroom can fruit in cold weather, often appearing in clusters on dead wood when many other fungi are less conspicuous.

Its ability to flourish through winter makes it a little symbol of perseverance. Pretty sweet going for a little mushi!

February – Turkey Tail

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February's imaginative side finds its match in turkey tail (Trametes versicolor). Its overlapping fans can display beautiful bands of cream, brown, grey and other colors, making every cluster look like a tiny natural artwork. It grows on dead wood and is a lovely reminder that creativity can be found in unexpected places. It's a fungi match with plenty of visual personality.

Shop Mushroom Foraging Essentials:

Workman Publishing How to Forage for Mushrooms Without Dying: an Absolute Beginner's Guide to Identifying 29 Wild, Edible Mushrooms

VylerSky Vylersky Foraging Bag - Mushroom Foraging Kit With Bag and Knife, Great for Mushroom Decor Lovers

DRACHENADER Drachenader Mushroom Knife With Brush, Folding Foraging Knife

March – Scarlet Elf Cup

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Quietly striking rather than showy, the scarlet elf cup (Sarcoscypha species) is a lovely match for March. Its vivid red cups often appear among moss and leaf litter on fallen twigs in woodland, bringing a flash of color to the early-year landscape.

Oh sure, you might have to look carefully to spot this birth month mushroom out and about in the wild, but that is part of its charm: a little beauty for those who take the time to notice!

April – Morel

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With its unmistakable honeycomb-like cap, the morel (Morchella species) certainly knows how to make an entrance! These sought-after spring mushrooms have an unusual appearance that makes them stand out from the crowd, just like April's bold, energetic personalities.

Morels can be found in parts of the US and UK in spring, although their appearance depends on local conditions. They're fascinating to spot, but never eat a wild mushroom without reliable expert identification: false morels can be dangerous.

May – Dryad's Saddle

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May's dependable personality pairs nicely with dryad's saddle (Cerioporus squamosus), a large fungus that grows on tree trunks and fallen wood. Its broad cap has distinctive dark scales, giving it a sturdy, earthy appearance.

Often seen in spring, it's the sort of birth month mushroom that rewards a closer look at the trees around you, making it a lovely match for someone who likes to keep their feet firmly on the ground.

Shop And Grow Your Own Mushrooms:

Heart Light

Back to the Roots Back to the Roots Organic Mini Mushroom Grow Kit

The Night-Blooming Beauty

NuBlume Bloombox Blue Oyster Mushroom Grow Kit

Woodland Shimmer

North Spore North Spore Pink Oyster Mushroom Growing Kit

June – Shiitake

(Image credit: Gray Wagtail / Shutterstock)

Shiitake (Lentinula edodes) is obviously the birth month mushroom for sensitive and sociable June babies. Its rich brown caps and familiar place in kitchens around the world give it a comforting, approachable quality.

Unlike mushrooms that are mainly discovered in the wild, shiitake can be cultivated on suitable hardwood logs or growing blocks, making it an interesting choice for anyone curious about growing their own food. And a mushroom that brings people together over a good meal? Yeah, that feels just right for June.

July – Golden Chanterelle

(Image credit: Karl Ander Adami/Getty Images)

The golden chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius) is a cheerful match for July, as its warm yellow-orange color and gently wavy shape make it one of the most recognisable mushrooms for experienced nature-watchers.

It can be found in suitable woodland habitats during warmer months. Chanterelles grow in association with trees, making them part of a much bigger woodland relationship. That connection to the surrounding ecosystem makes this a fitting birth month mushroom for someone who values family, friendship and looking after their own.

August – Chicken of the Woods

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Few birth month mushrooms are as weirdly wonderful as chicken of the woods (Laetiporus sulphureus). Its brilliant orange and yellow shelves can stand out dramatically against a tree trunk, making it a natural choice for August's confident and charismatic personalities.

This striking fungus is found in parts of the US and UK, often on trees or dead wood. It's an attention-grabbing sight, and a reminder that nature doesn't always need a delicate touch to be beautiful.

September – Porcini

(Image credit: Stefano Guidi/Getty Images)

September's practical and detail-oriented personalities are well represented by porcini (Boletus edulis), also known as – and get ready for the cutest name ever – penny bun. Beneath its rounded brown cap is a thick, solid stem, giving this birth month mushroom a robust appearance.

Porcini are associated with trees and are prized by experienced foragers and cooks. Finding them requires patience and attention to habitat, which makes this an apt match for people who like to do their homework before getting started. (You can also buy Porcini Mushrooms Spores from Amazon if you're interested).

October – Pink Oyster

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I might be biased, but I love that October gets the most colorful match of all: the pink oyster mushroom (Pleurotus djamor). Its vivid pink and overlapping caps look almost too bright to be real, making it a wonderfully unexpected addition to the list.

Pink oysters are commonly grown at home in gourmet mushroom kits, but they prefer warmth and are less suited to cold outdoor conditions than grey oyster varieties. Their unusual color makes them a natural conversation starter, just like October's charming and people-savvy personalities.

November – Amethyst Deceiver

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Alright, fine; I love the birth month mushroom for October, but this one is a true stunner! Still, with its rich violet coloring, the amethyst deceiver (Laccaria amethystina) is a natural fit for November's mysterious streak.

It can be found in woodland, where its small purple caps stand out against fallen leaves and dark soil. Its color may become less vivid as it ages, which only adds to its elusive reputation, and making it a perfect match for anyone who has a passionate side that not everyone gets to see straight away.

December – Shaggy Inkcap

(Image credit: imageBROKER/Sunshine Seeds/Getty Images)

December's birth month mushroom is the shaggy inkcap (Coprinus comatus), a distinctive mushroom with a tall white cap covered in – unsurprisingly, given its name – shaggy scales.

It can appear in grass, parks and disturbed ground, making it a potential find on an everyday walk rather than only deep in the woods. As it matures, its cap darkens and dissolves into an inky liquid – a surprisingly dramatic transformation for such an unassuming-looking mushroom, and making it well suited to our adventurous and slightly quirky babies born at the end of the year.

Of course, there's no scientific link between your birthday and a particular fungus, but that doesn't mean we can't have a little fun(gi) finding meaning in our birth month mushrooms, right down to their distinctive appearances and growing habits.

Whether yours is the sort that thrives in challenging condition, or a colorful attention-grabbing variety, there's meaning to be found in the world, wherever you look for it. And hey, if it means we have a unique mushi to call our own? So be it!

In most gardens, October is a pivotal transition period for perennials as they go from active growing and flowering to winter dormancy. As early-season bloomers, irises can look pretty tired by fall, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need care.

October iris care is all about preparing plants for dormancy and ensuring they’ll emerge healthy and flowering next spring. From preventing rot to managing pests and diseases, good care now ensures healthier growth next year.

Here, we’ll focus on October chores for bearded irises, the most commonly grown type, with notes on how care differs for Siberian and Japanese irises. Essential fall care includes trimming foliage, cleaning up around plants, dividing as needed, and managing mulch appropriately by iris type.

1. Trim Back Declining Foliage

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Depending on where you live and garden, some or all of your iris foliage will be giving up the game by now. Much of the foliage will be yellow or dying. Use clean, sharp shears to remove spent leaves. For precise trimming around healthy foliage, try the Fiskars Titanium Micro-Tip Pruning Shears, available at Home Depot. Their narrow blades make it easier to snip away dying leaves without damaging neighboring growth.

In general, trim established plants back to about six to eight inches (15 to 20 cm). Leaving leaves intact can cause winter damage that collapses onto the rhizomes, increasing the risk of rot.

Leave any healthy green leaves intact, as they are still photosynthesizing and gathering energy for the plant to use next year. In milder climates, you might still see a lot of green leaves, so you’ll need to delay trimming until the plant has more yellowing leaves.

2. Clear out Garden Debris

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It’s very important to remove debris from around and under your irises before winter. Remove all fallen and dead leaves, stems, weeds, and other plant material and compost it, or, if diseased, dispose of it in the garbage.

This chore is crucial because leftover material can increase the risk of plants getting diseases or being infested with pests later. The iris borer lays eggs in dead foliage, which overwinter there and hatch in the spring. Removing debris also opens up airflow, reducing the risk of fungal infections.

If iris borers have been a problem in your garden, make a note to tackle them again in spring. A spinosad-based insecticide, such as Bonide Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew, available on Amazon, can help control newly hatched larvae before they burrow into the plants. Apply when new iris shoots reach around 4–6 inches tall (10–15 cm).

3. Check Rhizomes for Rot

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Bearded irises store energy in fleshy rhizomes near the soil surface. They may rot if moisture levels are too high. It’s a good idea to check for and manage any areas of rot on rhizomes now, so they don’t get worse over winter. Brush back the soil from the tops of the rhizomes and inspect them for spots that look soft, mushy, or dark, or that have a bad smell.

Use a sharp, clean garden knife to cut out rotten areas until you reach healthy, firm rhizome tissue. A tool such as the Fiskars Big Grip Garden Knife, available at Amazon, is also handy for carefully lifting affected rhizomes to inspect them more closely. Disinfect the blade between cuts to avoid spreading infection. If a rhizome is severely rotted, it’s usually best to remove and discard it.

If you find a lot of rot, check drainage around the plants and make sure water isn’t pooling. Japanese and Siberian irises also grow from rhizomes, but these are generally less exposed than those of bearded irises. You can still check around the crowns for signs of rot or damage caused by excessive moisture.

4. Divide and Replant Irises

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Fall is generally a good time to divide bearded irises. However, October might be too late in some areas. In milder climates (zones 7 to 9), you can divide irises now. In colder areas, October is likely too late to move irises and expect them to establish before winter.

If you are dividing an iris now, lift the clumps carefully. A sturdy digging tool, such as the Radius Garden Root Slayer Shovel, available at Home Depot, has a serrated blade that makes it easier to dig around dense, established clumps. Take care not to damage the rhizomes as you lift them. Separate the rhizomes, ensuring each one has a healthy fan of leaves. Plant the divisions in suitable areas right away, making sure they have good drainage and that the rhizomes remain near the surface. Siberian and Japanese irises are best divided in spring.

If it’s too late to make divisions now, you can still plan ahead by identifying large clumps that could benefit from a spring division. Target bearded iris clumps that are spreading into dense patches, have a bare center, or have not produced as many flowers as in previous years.

Label or photograph the clumps you plan to target in spring, so you don’t forget. It’s not always easy to identify the overgrown irises in spring. The best time to divide next year is after flowering.

A little fall care goes a long way toward establishing healthy, flowering irises in spring. It’s easy to forget these early bloomers come fall, but don’t make the mistake of ignoring them. Irises need fall care to ease their way into winter in good health.

5. Avoid Mulching, or Mulch Lightly

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Bearded irises are different from many perennials in that they generally should not be mulched over in winter. The rhizomes need to remain near the soil surface and slightly exposed to air and sunlight to stay dry and avoid rotting. Never cover them in heavy layers of mulch or compost.

If you have very cold winters, you can apply a thin layer of more breathable mulch to prevent frost heaving. Use pine needles or clean straw, like CleanStraw Longleaf Pine Straw Mulch from Walmart. Other types of irises can benefit from a more typical layer of mulch to retain moisture and as protection against cold.

6. Stop Feeding and Adjust Watering

(Image credit: Дмитрий Куруллин / Alamy)

Growth is slowing and stopping this time of year as irises prepare for winter dormancy. This means they no longer need fertilizer. Stop feeding irises now to avoid promoting fresh new growth that will only expend energy and freeze in winter.

You can also slow down your watering routine as temperatures drop, especially if your area is getting more rain. Rather than following a fixed schedule, check the soil every few days for moisture and water as needed. A Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available at Amazon, can help you monitor moisture levels and avoid overwatering. Newly transplanted divisions will need more consistent moisture as they establish roots, but take care not to leave the soil waterlogged.

Iris Care Essentials

Bonide Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew

Fiskars Big Grip Multi-purpose Garden Knife

Cleanstraw Longleaf Pine Straw Mulch